& 
 
 XX
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD.
 
 THE ZIGZAG SERIES, 
 
 BY 
 
 HEZEK1AH BUTTERWORTH. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN EUROPE. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN CLASSIC LANDS. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE ORIENT. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE OCCIDENT. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN NORTHERN LANDS. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN AC AD I A. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE LEVANT. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE SUNNY SOUTH. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN INDIA. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE ANTIPODES. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE BRITISH 
 ISLES. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE GREA T NORTH- 
 WEST. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN AUSTRALIA. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS ON THE MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS ON THE MEDITER- 
 RANEAN. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS IN THE WHITE CITY. 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ESTES AND LAURIAT, Publishers, 
 
 BOSTON, MASS. 
 
 _^.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 BY 
 
 HEZEK1AH BUTTERWORTH. 
 
 FULLY ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 ESTES AND LAURIAT, 
 
 PUBLISHERS.
 
 Copyright, 1895. 
 BY ESTES AND LAURIAT. 
 
 All Rights Reserved. 
 
 EInibrrsito 
 JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE, U. S. A.
 
 HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH. 
 
 T is not for every person to attain riches ; no more 
 is it the destiny of every one to ascend to the realms 
 of success in literature. Nevertheless, those of us who 
 labour in the rank and file of the army of literary and 
 journalistic workers, love to read of those who are 
 known both at home and abroad, and to hear the 
 story of their lives from the beginning to the pinnacle of renown. 
 Such a person, the ideal of whom I have always pictured in my mind, 
 deserves the place assigned to him by the public, that great critic that 
 assumes to designate what is good and what is not good. The 
 people, the readers, the intelligent of humanity, assign every literary 
 worker to some place, some position, in the galaxy of crowned and 
 uncrowned kings. But it is not to this fact alone that such successful 
 writers owe their position. It is owing to their own exertions. It is 
 for what they have done to educate and elevate mankind, for what 
 they have given to the world, that they have the gratitude of nations ; 
 and just in proportion to what they have done, will their position be. 
 We form our impression of an author from his books. We think of 
 him as possessing a delightful personality or the opposite. Who 
 does not delight in charming personality ? I do. Such a man is the 
 subject of my sketch. I have the pleasure of, to a certain extent, 
 a personal acquaintance with Mr. Hezekiah Butterworth, best known,
 
 8 HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH. 
 
 perhaps, by the thousands upon thousands of people throughout this 
 country and Europe, in the school and in the family circle, as the 
 author of the " Zigzag Journeyings." But who will not love to know 
 of him all the more, when I tell you that Mr. Butterworth is editorially 
 connected with that greatest and most successful of modern periodicals 
 for the young, the " Youth's Companion " ? 
 
 Mr. Hezekiah Butterworth was born in Warren, R. I., December 
 22d, in the year 1839, his family being among the earliest settlers of 
 Rhode Island. He grew up on the old estates, where he worked, in 
 the mean time studying and obtaining his education, taught some, and 
 wrote for the popular papers of the day. In 1870 he became con- 
 nected with the " Youth's Companion " as assistant editor, a position 
 which he has held for nearly twenty years. Mr. Butterworth possesses 
 the faculty for seeing what is wanted by young minds, and hence his 
 great success in connection with the " Youth's Companion," which 
 has, without a doubt, a greater hold upon the youth of the country 
 than any other paper of any name or description. In 1875, Mr. 
 Butterworth wrote the " Story of the Hymns," for which he received 
 the George Wood gold medal. He has recently written a companion 
 volume, now to be published, entitled the " Story of the Tunes." 
 
 While engaged in. his editorial duties some ten years ago, Dana 
 Estes, Esq., of the publishing house of Estes and Lauriat, showed 
 him a popular French work called " Zigzag Journeys." The book 
 gave an account of a French schoolmaster who took a class of boys 
 on a journey in search of story-places. Mr. Butterworth, knowing 
 what was wanted in their line, believed books of stories of places 
 would be likely to prove useful to home and school education, and 
 wrote a specimen book on the French plan. It was entitled " Zigzag 
 Journeys in Europe." The book was immediately popular, and about 
 forty thousand copies of it have been sold. 1 The educational journals, 
 and the press generally, saw the purpose of the book, and very highly 
 
 1 Nearly 100,000 have now been sold.
 
 HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH. 9 
 
 commended it. One New York paper, however, a critical journal, 
 ridiculed it, and said : " He threatens to go on." Mr. Butterworth did 
 go on. 1 Eleven volumes of the " Zigzag " series of books have been 
 written, and some three hundred thousand volumes sold; and they have 
 been placed in most school libraries, having become a popular annual. 
 " Something new " is the never ending demand in literature. Mr. 
 Butterworth has been very successful in pursuing original plans, 
 and making for himself a field outside, largely, of the conventional 
 work of literature. Of this, the most striking example is the " Zigzag " 
 series, which books owe their success, to a great extent, to their 
 novelty. As a cantata librettist he wrote "Under the Palms," "David, 
 the Shepherd Boy," and other like works, which have been very 
 popular in this country and in England, owing to their peculiar con- 
 struction, as well as their adaptability to popular concerts. There 
 have been more than fifty thousand copies of " Under the Palms '' 
 sold in England alone. 
 
 As a poet, Mr. Butterworth has published two volumes, namely: 
 " Poems for Christmas, Easter, and New Year" (Estes and Lauriat); 
 and " Songs of History " (New England Publishing Company). He 
 is to issue this year a volume of poems on " Florida and the Palm 
 Lands." 
 
 I wish space would allow me to quote from this volume as freely 
 as I would like. It is a beautiful volume of holiday styles, bound in 
 vellum. From the volume which Mr. Butterworth kindly presented 
 to me, I will take the liberty of making a few references. I do not 
 assume the roll of critic. Not I ; but what particularly pleases me 
 is a poem entitled " The Clocks of Kenilworth," suggested by the 
 ruined church at Jamestown, Virginia. Starting out under the 
 quotation, well known to my readers : 
 
 " The clocks were stopped at the banquet hour." 
 1 This is the sixteenth volume.
 
 10 HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH. 
 
 the poem reads : 
 
 " An ivy spray in my hand I hold, 
 The kindly ivy that covers the mould 
 Of ruined halls ; it was brought to me 
 From Kenilworth Castle o'er the sea. 
 
 " Oh, Ivy, Ivy, I think of the Queen, 
 Who once swept on her way through the oak walks green, 
 To Kenilworth, far in the gathering glooms, 
 Her cavalcade white with silver plumes. 
 
 " They are gone, all gone, those knights of old 
 With their red-cross banners and spurs of gold, 
 And thou dost cover their castle's mould, 
 Oh, Ivy, Ivy, dark and cold ! " 
 
 The next verse goes on to describe the entering of the Queen 
 into the Castle, 
 
 " When the great bell strikes in the signal-tower," 
 
 amid the peal of trumpets and the roll of drums, where the thousand 
 goblets await her, and pictures the progress of that lady, who takes 
 her stand on the dais when falls a deep silence on the blazing halls 
 as the Queen opens her lips, when to the honor of all that brilliant 
 throng, the clocks begin to beat, seeming to say in the stillness, 
 
 " Dying, dying, this too this too shall pass away ! " 
 
 The sixth stanza goes on : 
 
 " Then the dark knights say, ' What is wanting here? ' 
 ' That the hour should last ' so said a peer. 
 ' The hour shall last ! ' the proud earl calls ; 
 1 Ho ! Stop the clocks in the banquet halls !' 
 
 '* And the clocks' slow pulses of death were stilled, 
 And the gay earl smiled, and the wine was spilled, 
 And the jewelled Queen at the dumb clocks laughed, 
 And the flashing goblet raised and quaffed." 
 
 The poem then goes on to relate how the proud earl never won 
 his bride, how the Queen grew old, gray, and withered, and the senti-
 
 HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH.
 
 HEZEKIA H . B UTTER IVOR TH. I 3 
 
 ment spoken by the clocks is beautifully, touchingly pictured in the 
 last stanza, which I give. Of the Queen it says : 
 
 " On her crownless brow fell white her hair ; 
 And she buried her face in her cushions there : 
 ' One moment ! ' it echoed through the hall, 
 But the clock stopped not on the arrased wall. 
 
 " There is a palace whose dial towers 
 Uplift no record of vanishing hours, 
 Disease comes not to its doors, nor falls 
 Death's dusty step in its golden halls. 
 
 " And more than crowns, or castles old, 
 Or red-cross banners, or spurs of gold, 
 That palace key it is to hold, 
 Oh, Ivy, Ivy, dark and cold ! " 
 
 This poem was originally published in " Wide Awake." A few of 
 the poems in this volume have before been published, but many of 
 them are here published for the first time. 
 
 " Songs of the New England Hayfield " particularly takes my fancy, 
 as it vividly recalls to my mind the days of my boyhood and scenes in 
 the hayfield. 
 
 " Verazzano " also greatly pleases me. But next to " The Clocks 
 of Kenilworth," " Literatus : Lincoln's Last Dream " pleases me most 
 President Lincoln, just before the assassination, is said to have re- 
 marked to Mrs. Lincoln : " When my cares of state are over, I wish 
 to go to Palestine." The poem is a pathetic picture of Lincoln's 
 life during the great struggle for the freedom of slaves, and closes by 
 referring touchingly to the death of Lincoln, in the last verses, as 
 follows : 
 
 " April morning ; flags are blowing ; 
 
 'Thwart each flag a sable bar. 
 Dead, the leader of the people ; 
 Dead, the world's great commoner.
 
 14 HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH. 
 
 " Bells on the Poto/nac tolling ; 
 Tolling by the Sangamon ; 
 Tolling from the broad Atlantic 
 To the Ocean of the Sun. 
 
 'Friend and foe clasp hands in silence, 
 
 Listen to the low prayers said. 
 Hear the peoples' benedictions. 
 Hear the nations praise the dead. 
 
 " Lovely land of Palestine ! 
 
 He thy shores will never see, 
 
 But, his dream fulfilled, he follows 
 
 Him who walked in Galilee." 
 
 He read the poem at the opening of the Peace and Arbitration 
 Congress at Chicago at the World's Columbian Exposition. 
 
 Many of his poems read well to musical accompaniments, and he 
 has prepared a compilation of musical effects, " Readings with 
 Musical Accompaniments" (John Church & Co.). Mr. Butterworth 
 wrote " Young People's History of Boston," edited " Young People's 
 History of America," and has contributed to the " Atlantic Monthly " 
 under Mr. Howells, to "Appleton's Journal" and "St. Nicholas," 
 " Wide Awake," and " Santa Claus ; " and is also a contributor to 
 Harper's publications. He has, moreover, written for the Chau- 
 tauqua works. As a traveller Mr. Butterworth has visited Europe, 
 the South, West, and North-west of our own country, and Canada and 
 Cuba and Venezuela, thus extending his field of knowledge by careful 
 observation which has added materially to the value of his writings. Mr. 
 Butterworth possesses a personal charm that is transferred to the pages 
 of his books ; consequently, to read his books is almost like personal 
 observation, so closely does he himself observe, and so faithfully does 
 he portray his observations in his works. 
 
 As an editor his views are, that there is a larger demand for the 
 humorous or pathetic short stories than for writings of any other
 
 HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH. 15 
 
 description ; and next to this, articles that awake curiosity, and help 
 practical life. 
 
 Mr. Butterworth loves the quiet of country home life, and has a farm- 
 home in Warren, Rhode Island, and one in Bristol in the same little 
 State; also in Belleview, Florida. He is deeply interested in the collec- 
 tion of humorous New England lore, or the queer tales of the towns in 
 characters like Grimm's German tales. His idea is, as he once ex- 
 pressed it to me in his earnest, fascinating, enthusiastic manner, that 
 many old New England towns, especially old seaport towns of Massa- 
 chusetts, for example, possess a legend that has been told to and 
 handed down by each succeeding generation, and which, coupled with 
 its humour, contains many or all of the facts relating to the history 
 of a town; so that, in reading such stories, historical facts are im- 
 pressed upon the mind. 
 
 He is also deeply interested in the establishment of a Spanish 
 School in Belleview, Florida, to which he has offered the use of his 
 cottage there. To show how worthy are the motives of a worthy man, 
 I quote from" The Belleview [Florida] Blade," of the issue of October 3, 
 1889, in which Mr. Butterworth, in a letter to Editor Hart of the 
 " Blade," says : " When it is asked of an English traveller, as it often is : 
 ' How did Germany obtain such great commercial interests in the 
 Argentine Republic ? ' the answer is likely to be, the German student 
 is taught Spanish. Sixty shiploads a month go into the port of 
 Buenos Ayres, but only a few of these have the American flag. The 
 United States needs a school, open alike to North and South Ameri- 
 can students, where South American Spanish shall be made a dis- 
 tinctive feature of education, and where Cuban and South American 
 students can receive special musical education." This project is 
 likely to prove a success. 
 
 Unlike many writers, Mr. Butterworth has never mingled greatly 
 in literary societies, preferring a free lance in a free field, in which he 
 has found an independent field of success.
 
 1 6 HEZEKTAH BUTTER WORTH. 
 
 He has sometimes lectured at the New England Conservatory of 
 Music, and before educational and religious societies. His advice to 
 young writers is to follow original inspirations. He is a very busy 
 man always ; and most of his books have been written under " a 
 pressure of work ; " and at such times he has received the assistance 
 of well-known travellers, as, for example, in his " Zigzag Journey " series. 
 His greatest regret is, the hasty way in which most of his work has 
 been done, so much of his time is taken by his duties on the " Com- 
 panion," for Mr. Butterworth prefers quality rather than quantity. 
 
 Personally, Mr. Butterworth is a delightful man to meet, and to be in 
 his society is to be afforded a degree of enjoyment and pleasure that is 
 rare. Every moment with him is sure to develop some new thought, 
 some new and original idea. He is vigorous of body, and carries him- 
 self with an elastic bearing. In conversation he is earnest and enthusi- 
 astic, and speaks in a certain rapid and pointed manner that at once 
 fascinates and interests one. In speaking, he frequently indulges in 
 little ripples of mirth ; and, in fact, his whole nature is beaming with 
 that sort of pure, rare humour that lends fascination to his writings. 
 His office in the " Companion " building is filled with rare pictures and 
 cases of books, and the desk at which he works is littered with papers 
 and manuscripts. A table near by is piled with books, magazines, 
 and periodicals. Mr. Butterworth is slightly gray, but youthful look- 
 ing. He is extremely fond of young society, and many are the de- 
 lightful occasions spent at his home on Worcester Street. When he 
 meets you, his handshake is cordial, and his reception warm and hearty, 
 which at once puts one at perfect ease. He loves music, and culti- 
 vates a rare religious sentiment which shows itself in all his writings. 
 His personality is charming. While retiring in his disposition, he 
 is perfectly composed. He prefers not to speak of his own work, 
 and seldom does directly, though he will talk freely of subjects in 
 which he is interested in connection with his work. Whatever meas-
 
 HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH. 17 
 
 ure of success he has met with, it has certainly not come from any 
 desire to attract attention to himself personally, for he has always 
 preferred a different field, that of quiet and exclusiveness, so far as 
 his work is concerned, though he is a favourite at various entertain- 
 ments, concerts, and lectures, and often takes a part, frequently by 
 reading a poem ; and most of his spare evenings are occupied in 
 this manner. Such is the author of "Zigzag Journeys," in the humble 
 way in which I have tried to write of him. I cannot do justice to 
 my subject, I know, though it is not from any lack of a disposition 
 
 to do so, on my part. 
 
 ALLAN ERIC, in the Journalist, 1889.
 
 PREFACE 
 
 N writing and editing this melange of descriptions of 
 picturesque places, the author has received help from 
 several travellers whose work is credited in the chapters 
 in which it appears. The purpose of the book is to 
 illustrate the advantages of educational travel or visits to the great 
 schoolrooms of the world. It seeks to answer the question, What 
 should the student-traveller see ?
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH 7 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
 I. THE WONDERFUL WAY AROUND THE WORLD 27 
 
 II. SOME USEFUL THINGS TO KNOW FOR A VOYAGE AROUND THE 
 
 WORLD 49 
 
 III. NICARAGUA. CHICAGO. THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 THE YOSEMITE. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA .... 61 
 
 IV. TALES AND AMUSEMENTS ON THE SEA 76 
 
 V. JAPAN, HONG-KONG, CHINA, AND BORNEO 109 
 
 VI. CEYLON, THE TAJ, AND THE GREAT BO-TREE 141 
 
 VII. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL TEMPLES IN THE WORLD ...... 158 
 
 VIII. To THE MOUNT OF THE BEATITUDES. VENICE TO THURINGIA 173 
 
 IX. WALHALLA (REGENSBURG). THE MIDNIGHT SUN 193 
 
 X. BELGIUM 222 
 
 XI. SOUTHAMPTON AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT 234 
 
 XII. THE COAST OF THE DISCOVERY 262 
 
 XIII. PERU 279 
 
 XIV. EDUCATION IN SOUTH AMERICA. MEXICO 311
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Hezekiah Butterworth 11 
 
 Butterfly Ballet in a Theatre in Japan . 25 
 
 Emerson 29 
 
 The Sermon on the Mount 31 
 
 The Sphinx 33 
 
 Alpine Scenery 35 
 
 Tank. Pagoda of Chillambaran 37 
 
 Mosque, Triplican 43 
 
 Lake Lucerne 45 
 
 The Golden Temple of Umritseer . . 47 
 
 Lake Lucerne 53 
 
 Chapultepec 54 
 
 Popocatapetl 55 
 
 The Town-Hall, Zurich 59 
 
 A Cascade in the Yellowstone Park . . 62 
 
 Icelandic Geyser 63 
 
 View in Iceland 64 
 
 Columns of Red Sandstone 65 
 
 Kilauea 66 
 
 View of Sandwich Islands 67 
 
 Waves of Fire 68 
 
 Crater of Kilauea ....:... 69 
 
 Lava Beds 72 
 
 Lava Stream 73 
 
 The Garden of the Gods 77 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The Cathedral 79 
 
 A Dyak of Borneo 81 
 
 Palace of Copal Bhowan * 83 
 
 Pagoda near Kuttack 85 
 
 Mexican Medicine-Man 89 
 
 An Unpleasant Neighbour 93 
 
 A Cave-Dweller 97 
 
 Temple of Hatchiman 101 
 
 The Romsdal 105 
 
 Scene in Japan 109 
 
 Japanese Bazaar in 
 
 Porcelain Tower 113 
 
 Coreans 115 
 
 Belfry of Buddhist Temple 119 
 
 Temple of Confucius 113 
 
 Angcor Wat 127 
 
 River Scenery, Borneo 129 
 
 A European Residence, Borneo . . . 130 
 
 The Baion, Angcor Thorn 131 
 
 Group of Dyaks 133 
 
 Lower Rapid, Sarawak River . . . . 134 
 
 Head-Hunting Dyaks of Borneo . . . 135 
 
 Dyak Bridge and Hut 137 
 
 Dahomey Cruelties 138 
 
 The Pet Orang-Outang 139
 
 ILLUSTRA TIONS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Ceylon 141 
 
 Native Cottages in Ceylon 142 
 
 Anaconda and Tiger 143 
 
 Malay Mud Hut 146 
 
 The Taj, Agra 14? 
 
 The Taj, from a distance 151 
 
 Garden-Gate of the Taj 152 
 
 A Forest of Ceylon 154 
 
 Aladdin's Gate, Delhi 155 
 
 Public Baths 157 
 
 Fagade of the Palace, Gwalior . . . . 159 
 
 Palace of Shah Jehan 161 
 
 The Mausoleum of Akbar 162 
 
 Pagoda, Bombay 163 
 
 Rock-Hewn Temples 165 
 
 The Heimdal 167 
 
 Orizaba 171 
 
 Synagogue of Jerusalem 173 
 
 Jaffa 174 
 
 Jerusalem 174 
 
 Church of the Holy Sepulchre . . . 175 
 
 Jacob's Well 175 
 
 Samaria 176 
 
 Mount Hermon 176 
 
 Nazareth 177 
 
 Cana from the East 177 
 
 Tiberias 178 
 
 Sea of Galilee 179 
 
 Gethsemane 181 
 
 Moorish Woman 182 
 
 Zurich 184 
 
 Brazilian Indians 185 
 
 The Wad, Zurich 187 
 
 Warriors of the Amazon 189 
 
 A Street in Ratisbon 194 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The Pinacothek . . o 195 
 
 TheWalhalla 197 
 
 Interior of the Walhalla 198 
 
 The Glyptothek 199 
 
 Triumphal Arch, Munich 201 
 
 The Fjord of Framnas 202 
 
 Statue of Bavaria 203 
 
 Veblungsnaeset 206 
 
 The Fladel 207 
 
 Voring Pass 208 
 
 The Church at Bakke 211 
 
 Cliffs of Norway 214 
 
 Cascade on the Rosota 217 
 
 Waterloo 223 
 
 Napoleon received on the " Bellerophon " 229 
 
 Henry VIII 238 
 
 Canute's Palace 239 
 
 Palace of Henry VIII 240 
 
 Grace Darling 249 
 
 George III 257 
 
 Cayenne 262 
 
 Road near Cayenne 265 
 
 Falls of the Rio Negro 267 
 
 Mouth of the Sagnasson 268 
 
 Avenue of Palms 269 
 
 " The Peaks Pierce the Sky ". . . . 271 
 
 Boats on the Amazon 273 
 
 Gate of the Cordilleras 277 
 
 Mountain near Huaro 281 
 
 Valley of the Marcopata 285 
 
 Hacienda of Lauramarca 287 
 
 Rio Cconi 289 
 
 The Cerro Escopal 291 
 
 Rio Maniri 293 
 
 Rio Cadena 295
 
 ILLUSTRA TIONS. 
 
 Rio Cuchua . 
 
 PAGE 
 297 
 
 Cailloma La Rica 299 
 
 Basalt Dikes on the Velille 301 
 
 Source of the Mesacancha 303 
 
 Rio Apurimac 35 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Rio De Condoroma 309 
 
 Mud Huts, Columbia 312 
 
 Monterey 313 
 
 Church at Chihuahua 317
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE WONDERFUL WAY AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 R. DAVIDSON, a well-to-do Boston gentleman of 
 middle life, had two sons, Henry and Harold. 
 They had just graduated, one from a literary and 
 the other from a scientific school. The boys were 
 one day surprised to hear their father say : " You 
 have done yourselves and the family credit by your 
 courses at school ; I am proud of your records, and now I w r ish to 
 give you the new education." 
 
 " And what is that, father ? " asked Henry, "a post-graduate 
 course ? " 
 
 " Yes, my son, a post-graduate course, but not such an one as you 
 may imagine it to be. My impression is that the post-graduate course 
 of the future will be educational travel. A student cannot complete 
 his education by books alone ; he must know the world, life, men. 
 Books do not educate ; they are guides. Men of means often end 
 their lives, or the business part of their lives, in travel, as I may do. 
 But a young man needs to travel before he takes up a business life. 
 There is no education like it ; it makes a young man broad to see 
 the world. I do not mean travel for pleasure; such travellers find 
 little beyond what they seek. Dr. Johnson used to say that some
 
 28 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 men would see more in a ride in a Hempstead stage than others 
 would in a voyage around the world. Thoreau had a like view when 
 he wrote 
 
 " ' If with fancy unfurled 
 
 You leave your abode, 
 You may go around the world, 
 By the old Marlboro road.' 
 
 " I mean travel for information, which is the greatest pleasure. To v 
 have true views of life one must mingle with men, and to have a cor- 
 rect view of one's purpose in the world, one must see the world. A 
 year of travel would do much to start an observing young man with 
 correct and advantageous views of men and the world. I wish you 
 to have this new education. I may be able to go with you. If I 
 could have seen more of the world at your age, it would have made 
 me a broader and better man. I should have learned what I have 
 been gaining by slow experience. But all our views of education are 
 now changing ; education now stands for the whole of life, so I am 
 a pupil yet. My belief is that the time is coming when a tour around 
 the world will be an essential part of a young man's education, and 
 that the travelling schoolmaster will occupy a large place in the school 
 system of the twentieth century. I should not wonder if such educa- 
 tion for meritorious scholars were to be provided for out of public 
 funds. The true schoolroom is the world. Why, I have met old 
 sailors whom I would rather entertain, or have entertain me, than 
 college professors. They knew life." 
 
 " But, father," said Henry, " if you were to give us a year of educa- 
 tional travel, where would you have us go ? " 
 
 " That is what I was about to plan. I have a theory that each boy's 
 instincts would lead him to wish to go to those places that would be 
 most useful to him. ' The current knows the way,' as Emerson says. 
 If a boy were born for literature, he would tend to literary places ; if 
 to business, to commercial places. Now, Henry, if you were to have
 
 THE WONDERFUL WAY AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 2 9 
 
 the opportunity of making a journey around the world, what would 
 you most like to see ? " 
 
 " The most wonderful places in the world. I know that you will 
 say, father, that it is not the best thing in life to be seeking after the 
 marvellous. But I must answer honestly. Emerson says : ' I am not 
 much of an advocate of travel. Men go abroad because they do not 
 amount to anything at home, and 
 they return again because they do not 
 amount to anything where they go, 
 and that wherever he may go, a man 
 has no more worth than he carries 
 with him,' or words like these. But 
 Emerson himself travelled." 
 
 " Yes, and he learned so much by 
 it that he was more than satisfied 
 with his own country, and he wrote, 
 ' Good-bye, proud world, I am going 
 home.' It was worth much travel to 
 write that line out of one's heart. 
 The result of Emerson's travels was 
 contentment, and contentment is the 
 short way to happiness. You will 
 make a happier home for me after 
 
 you have travelled a year. Harold, where would you go if you were 
 to travel?. What would you most wish to see?" 
 
 " I would see the places where people have lived the best and hap- 
 piest lives. I wish to see the best that men have lived ; I would 
 study men? 
 
 " Henry, your wish indicates an active imagination, and yours, 
 Harold, a very benevolent spirit." 
 
 " I know, father," said Henry, " that Harold's is the better view. I 
 
 EMERSON. 
 
 am glad that it is. 
 
 But I was born with a love for the marvellous."
 
 30 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " Then, my boy, that is your gift. Make it useful. The creative 
 fancy is power in life, if rightly used." 
 
 " I have no liking for realistic books," said Henry. " I like such 
 stories as Queen Scheherezade told to the King of India, and always 
 left him up a tree, with his eyes and mouth open for more, and so 
 saved her head for a ' thousand and one nights.' ' 
 
 " There are many who agree with you, my son. The ' Arabian 
 Nights,' or Queen Scheherezade's stories, is the most popular book 
 in all the world. She saved her head." 
 
 " Yes, father, and I like best those stories that would have saved the 
 heads of the writers in a like situation. It seems to me that it is only 
 such story-tellers who deserve to live. A story is not a story unless 
 it rises above common life. It seems to me if the marvellous were to 
 cease, one would want to die." 
 
 " Progress follows the creative imagination, my boy, and I do not 
 regret that you have an active fancy. Christ himself taught the 
 people by parables." 
 
 " He showed them that way that is best in life," said Harold. 
 " The Sermon on the Mount was not a parable." 
 
 " But the mount was a grand pulpit from which to preach," said 
 Henry. " The great leaders of men have not been realists, rooted 
 to their own soil, they have come down from the mountain tops. 
 You ask me what I would most like to see I would like to visit 
 the mountains of the world. 
 
 "What would I like to see? " he continued, " I would like to see 
 the Alps, the Rocky Mountains, and the Andes. 1 would like to see 
 the people watching the sun when it goes down for half a year. I 
 would like to see Cuzco, and then imagine Peru in her glory. I 
 would like to see the temples of Ceylon and the Taj at Agra, and the 
 roses of Cashmere. I would like to see the mountain on which Christ 
 preached. I would like to ask the Sphinx some questions." 
 
 " I would rather see the valleys where contented people lived," said 
 Harold, " or the capitals of the countries of the world."
 
 THE SERMON ON THE MOUNT.
 
 THE WONDERFUL WAY AROUND THE WORLD. 33 
 
 " The three are often found side by side," said Mr. Davidson : 
 "the mountains, the valleys, and the chief cities. So we may plan a 
 journey that will include all, and go by the ports of the sea. Henry, 
 I wish you to plan for us a marvellous journey around the world. If 
 \ve see the mountain tops, the view will include what is helpful and 
 
 THE SPHINX. 
 
 useful. I take Harold's view of life, but the imagination includes 
 them. So, Henry, plan for us the most marvellous journey that you 
 can ; the journey by which we can see the most for the least money, 
 and we will consider it together another time." 
 
 "A journey on the mountain tops?" 
 
 "Yes, if you choose to call it so, a journey on the mountain 
 tops ; it will take us to the valleys by the way of the ports. What 
 scene of all our ancient American history would you most like to 
 have witnessed ? " 
 
 " Peru in her glory." 
 
 " I thought it would have been the landing of Columbus, or of 
 
 3
 
 34 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the Pilgrim Fathers, or the Signing of the Declaration of Inde- 
 pendence." 
 
 " Those were events, were they not, father ? You asked what 
 scene' 
 
 " Yes, and your picturesque sense and imagination show that we 
 can trust you at least for an interesting outline of a journey. Harold 
 and I will be able to read behind the picturesque. I like your fancy, 
 as I said, but remember, my boy, that in this world that is always the 
 best which will do the most good. But I shall examine your plan for 
 a journey around the world with interest, and you will not complain if 
 I may have to revise and correct it. One cannot live on mountain 
 tops, the top of the mountain is barren and cold. A mountain is 
 not a 'great impostor,' as an Englishman called it, but it is hardly the 
 most useful picture of all geography. I have opened my heart to you. 
 We will next plan the journey." 
 
 Mr. Davidson left the boys. 
 
 " Was there ever boys that had such a father ? " said Henry. 
 
 " I should answer that after Whittington," said Harold. 
 
 " You might, but I could not." 
 
 " I shall use my eyes in this journey," said Harold, " for all they 
 are worth. I shall study men." 
 
 "And I my ears," said Henry. " I shall study places." 
 
 " And father will use his good heart," said Harold. " What a man 
 he is ! " 
 
 " Yes," said Henry, " and the heart after all is the best thing that 
 any man can take into the world. The heart finds friends every- 
 where, and a man who always acts in the right spirit, has a straight 
 road and little difficulty wherever he may go. That is my father." 
 
 "And mine," said Harold; "and to travel with him is not only 
 education, it is character." 
 
 " But father is not rich," said Henry. 
 
 ' No, but he says that to give us this opportunity, under his own 
 direction, is the best investment that he can make."
 
 THE WONDERFUL WAY AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 35 
 
 " I must study an inexpensive plan of a journey," said Henry. 
 " Yes, your problem is how wo can make the longest and best 
 journey for the smallest amount of money. One can make a journey 
 
 ALPINE SCENERY. 
 
 around the world for six hundred dollars, and one might go around the 
 world without seeing the world." 
 
 " I could make the journey for five hundred dollars and see the 
 world." 
 
 " And South America, the land of the future ? " said Harold. 
 
 " Yes, the world and South America, the land of the future, for 
 five hundred dollars for me and for you, and one thousand dollars for 
 
 . j 
 
 father; he ought not to travel second class." 
 
 " It would do us good to do so," said Harold ; " we could better 
 study life with the people."
 
 36 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " I have read much," said Henry, "about student travellers. I 
 will now study guide books, maps, and the railroad and steamboat 
 literature, which is the latest history of the world. I will try to find 
 how we might go around the world for five hundred dollars by the 
 way of South America." 
 
 " But you will not travel in that way," said Harold. " You have 
 too much imagination, and that is a very expensive thing to have. I 
 think I can make the journey for that. I will try, so that I may show 
 other students how it may be done." 
 
 To this study Henry Davidson gave himself day by day. 
 
 He found that the shortest and cheapest way around the world by 
 South America would be to go from New York to Panama by the 
 Columbian or the Pacific Mail Line of steamers; and thence to Val- 
 paraiso, stopping at Callao for Lima, and at Mollando for Cuzco. A 
 railway runs from Mollando to Cuzco by the way of Arequipa and 
 Lake Titicaca. From Valparaiso a railway is nearly completed 'over 
 the Andes to Buenos Ayres. The mails already go through from the 
 Pacific to the Atlantic by this route. Such a journey would give one 
 a view of the ruins of the once splendid empire of the Children of the 
 Sun ; of Chili, one of the most progressive and enterprising of the 
 South American republics; and of the Argentine Republic, the terri- 
 tory of a great German immigration. 
 
 Santiago de Chili is a most splendid city, some ninety miles by 
 sail from the port of Valparaiso, and on the route of the stupendous 
 railroad over the Andes to Buenos Ayres. It faces some of the most 
 picturesque peaks of the Andes, and it has many private houses of 
 wonderful taste and beauty, some of which are said to have cost each 
 a million or more dollars. It is a healthy city, and the new world's 
 life is in it. 
 
 But the steamer fares on the west coast of South America are very 
 high, and there are few places in the world where travellers find ser- 
 vice more expensive.
 
 THE WONDERFUL WAY AROUND THE WORLD. 39 
 
 Henry had read so many books in regard to Peru that he felt that 
 he must not omit Cuzco from his plan, and he knew that Harold 
 would wish to see Valparaiso, Santiago de Chili, and the Argentine 
 Republic. His allotted five hundred dollars would soon melt away 
 by this route. What were the other routes that would include 
 South America, the land of the future ? 
 
 The advertisement of Thomas Cook and Son, Tourists and Ex- 
 cursionists, presented two very attractive cheap routes around the 
 world, but thev did not include South America, the land of the future. 
 
 j 
 
 They were as follows : 
 
 ROUTE No. 5. New York, Canadian-Pacific Railway to Vancouver, Can- 
 adian and Australian Steamship Line to Sydney via Honolulu, Peninsular and 
 Oriental steamer to Melbourne, Adelaide, Ceylon, Suez Canal, Malta, Gibraltar, 
 London, Liverpool, and by any steamship line to New York. First class, 
 $610.00. 
 
 ROUTE No. IA. New York, Canadian-Pacific Railway to Vancouver, Can- 
 adian-Pacific Railway steamer to Yokohama, Shanghai, Hong-Kong, thence by 
 Peninsular -and Oriental Steam Navigation Company to Singapore, Ceylon, 
 through the Red Sea and Suez Canal to Port Sai'd, Malta, Gibraltar, London, 
 Midland Railway to Liverpool, and by transatlantic steamer to New York, 
 Boston, Quebec, or Montreal. First class, $610.00. 
 
 Henry Gaze and Sons, Tourists' Directors, had laid out similar 
 routes, at the same low cost, but they did not include "the land of the 
 future." Two of them ran thus : 
 
 Vancouver, the Sandwich Islands, Australia, Ceylon, Red Sea, Egypt, 
 
 England. 
 
 ROUTE H. New York, Niagara Falls, Toronto (or via Montreal), Van- 
 couver, Canadian-Pacific steamer via Honolulu to Sydney, thence by Peninsular 
 and Oriental steamer via Melbourne and Adelaide to Colombo (Ceylon), Aden, 
 the Suez Canal, Ismailia (for Cairo), Malta, Gibraltar, London (or via Brindisi, 
 Naples, Rome, Genoa, and Paris to London, $35 higher), and choice of several 
 Atlantic lines to New York. $610.00.
 
 40 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 San Francisco, tlie Sandwich Islands, Samoa, Australia, Ceylon, Sites 
 
 Canal, Egypt, England. 
 
 ROUTE J. New York, Chicago, Omaha, Denver, Salt Lake City, San 
 Francisco (or any other direct route across the United States), Oceanic Line 
 via Honolulu, Samoa and Auckland to Sydney, thence by Peninsular and Ori. 
 ental Line via Melbourne and Adelaide to Colombo (Ceylon), Aden, the Suez 
 Canal, Ismailia (for Cairo), Malta, Gibraltar, London (or via Brindisi, Naples, 
 Rome, Genoa, and Paris to London, $35 higher), and by direct steamer to New 
 York. $610.00. 
 
 By travelling second class on steamers as well as by rail one could 
 go around the world by these routes for five hundred dollars. But a 
 traveller, and especially a young traveller, needs to meet the most 
 intelligent people, and second class travel may not be the best edu- 
 cation for a young tourist. 
 
 The delightful way to South America is by steamer to South- 
 ampton, and thence to Buenos Ayres in the spring months, which 
 is our fall. Southampton is one of the most interesting of England's 
 old cities. Here came the Romans; here Canute ordered back the 
 sea, which overturned his throne ; near it, at Winchester, were buried 
 the early English kings. The New Forest is on its borders, with its 
 old legends, and in sight lies the Isle of Wight. The Pilgrim Fathers 
 sailed out of Northampton, and the grand ships of the American Line 
 seem like the " Mayflower " coming back again, or like the " Argo " 
 returning with the Golden Fleece. The hiins of Netley Abbey are 
 but a few miles from this fair city of the sea, and England's great 
 naval stations are only a short distance from the port. 
 
 Gaze's "Tourist Gazette" ('95) thus gives an advertised schedule of 
 the service from Southampton and Liverpool :
 
 THE WONDERFUL WAY AROUND THE WORLD. 41 
 
 SOUTH AMERICA VIA ENGLAND. 
 
 Steamers leave Liverpool and Southampton fortnightly for South American Ports. 
 
 FARES FROM ENGLAND. 
 
 PACIFIC STEAM NAVIGATION Co. ROYAL MAIL STEAM PACKET Co. 
 
 Fortnightly from Liverpool. Fortnightly from Southampton. 
 
 VIA BORDEAUX AND LISBON. . VIA LISBON. 
 
 First Class. Second Class. First Class. Second Class. 
 
 Pernambuco $118.50 $74.00 Pernambuco $139.00 $99.00 
 
 Rio de Janeiro $118.50 $74.00 Rio de Janeiro $148.00 $99.00 
 
 Montevideo $139.00 $74.00 Montevideo $173.00 $99.00 
 
 Buenos Ayres $139.00 $74.00 Buenos Ayres $173.00 $99.00 
 
 Sailing days from Liverpool Jan. 17, Sailing days from Southampton Jan. 
 
 31 ; Feb. 14, 28; March 14, 28. 11, 25. 
 
 In studying these routes, Henry's eye rested on via Lisbon. 
 Could he not go to Gibraltar, see historic Spain, and connect with 
 these boats at Lisbon for South America? As South America was 
 once Spanish America, would not this be the true historic way to go ? 
 Follow Columbus? The splendid North German Lloyd steamers 
 have boats for Gibraltar and the East, among them the " Kaiser Wil- 
 helm." The Anchor Line also despatches fine boats to the East 
 which touch at Gibraltar. There are second-class fares to Gibraltar, 
 by good boats, as low as forty dollars. There are second-class fares 
 to South America from Lisbon for some seventy dollars. Including 
 a visit to Granada, Cordova, and Seville, here would be a route to 
 South America for one hundred and twenty- five dollars. 
 
 But This route would compel the traveller who must use econ- 
 omy to make three Atlantic voyages. This would not do. 
 
 Henry next considered a trip founded on one of Gaze's advertise- 
 ments, which ran thus : 
 
 ROUTE No. I A. New York, Canadian- Pacific Railway to Vancouver, Cana- 
 dian-Pacific Railway steamer to Yokohama, Shanghai, Hong-Kong, thence by 
 Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company to Singapore, Ceylon,
 
 42 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 through the Red Sea and Suez Canal to Port SaTd, Malta, Gibraltar, London, 
 Midland Railway to Liverpool, and by transatlantic steamer to New York, 
 Boston, Quebec, or Montreal. First class, $610.00. 
 
 This would touch Japan, China, and India; he could break the 
 journey at Port Said and go to Cairo and Jerusalem, and sail from 
 Lisbon for South America, by breaking the journey at Gibraltar. 
 From Lisbon he could go to Buenos Ayres, thence over the new rail- 
 way to Valparaiso ; thence to Cuzco ; then to Panama or San Francisco. 
 
 But Mexico belongs to the new world of the future. The tour 
 should include Mexico. How could this be done ? 
 
 A new line of railroad connects the City of Mexico with the Pacific 
 Coast. Why not stop at that port, and return to New York by rail 
 from the City of Mexico ? But for such a journey as this a thousand 
 dollars of the most inexpensive travel would melt away. 
 
 In a journey around the world an eastern man should see Niagara, 
 the Yellowstone Park, and the Yosemite Valley. 
 
 Henry puzzled himself day by day over these problems. He saw 
 that fifteen hundred dollars would be needed for an educational jour- 
 ney around the world. He felt that his father should spend as much 
 as this for his own journey. He noted down the things that one must 
 see in the outline of an educational journey to meet the larger intelli- 
 gence of the times. They were these : 
 
 New York, Rome, 
 
 Niagara, Lucerne (called the most beautiful 
 
 Chicago, place in Europe), 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, Munich Zurich the Valhalla, 
 
 San Francisco and the Yosemite, Paris, 
 
 Yokohama, Antwerp and the field of Waterloo, 
 
 Hong-Kong, The Baltic, 
 
 Ceylon (the Taj at Agra), London (Southampton, and Isle of 
 
 Jerusalem and Galilee, Wight), 
 
 Athens, Granada (Seville and the Royal tombs),
 
 THE WONDERFUL WAY AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 45 
 
 Buenos Ayres, 
 
 Santiago de Chili (with Valparaiso as 
 port), 
 
 Cuzco, 
 
 City of Mexico, 
 
 Washington. 
 
 What could be omitted from this list of essential points? Nothing. 
 How far would five hundred dollars go for such a journey ? Only a 
 
 LAKE LUCERNE. 
 
 part of the way. In his dilemma he sought Harold and laid before 
 him his plan. 
 
 " Nothing can be omitted from the plan, except South America 
 and Mexico, the lands of the future," said Harold. " Now you can 
 imagine a five-hundred-dollar journey, but you cannot make such an 
 one. I can. People of imagination, as I said, do not travel that way.
 
 46 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 People of large fancies usually exceed all their plans and go into debt. 
 You make out a plan of a thousand-dollar journey, second class by 
 rail, and first class by steamers for yourself and father, and I will make 
 the same journey for five hundred dollars. It would injure you to 
 travel with second-class passengers ; it would help me. You see 
 things double, I try to see things as they are. Now I will travel 
 second class all the way through. I will board on shipboard while in 
 ports, and I will work on ship journeys in some way if I can. I shall 
 be safe with father on board. The self-restraint will do me o-ood. I 
 
 O 
 
 will enjoy it. You know," he continued, " that Ruskin has four rules 
 of life, 
 
 " ' Simplicity, Activity, Self-restraint, Joy.' 
 
 I will take all of these with me, and I will be the happiest traveller 
 that ever crossed the three oceans, and I will never lose my self- 
 respect, nor forget that I am a gentleman. I should just like to do ser- 
 vice in the steerage ; to see and study the people who are crossing the 
 seas to make up the new populations of North and South America. 
 I would like to go to South America by the way of Hamburg, in the 
 new German emigration. I love the people. I love the people who 
 have a future, and hold the destinies of the future in their hands. I 
 care but little for dead lands. Show your plan to father. I know 
 that he will accept it. 
 
 " He ought not to spend more than three thousand dollars for us 
 all, and I will make the journey for five hundred dollars. You will 
 need five hundred dollars more for the education of the imagination, 
 and it will be well spent. You have included the countries of the 
 future in your itinerary; I am glad." 
 
 Mr. Davidson accepted Henry's plan. It delighted him.

 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 SOME USEFUL THINGS TO KNOW FOR A VOYAGE AROUND 
 
 THE WORLD. 
 
 HO made the first voyage around the world? " asked 
 Henry one day of his father, as the two had been 
 talking of their proposed journey. 
 
 "Ferdinand Magellan," said Mr. Davidson, "did 
 he not ? He left his name to the Straits that made 
 his voyage historic. He sailed from San Lucar in 
 1519, passed along the shores of the La Plata to Patagonia, and 
 through the Straits into the Pacific Ocean." 
 
 "But he died on the Philippine Islands in 1521," said Henry. 
 " So he did not make the voyage around the world." 
 "What became of his ship? " asked Mr. Davidson. 
 " It was carried back to Spain." 
 
 " Those who took it back made the first voyage around the world," 
 said Mr. Davidson. 
 
 " Sir Francis Drake," said Henry, " sailed around the world in 
 1577-79, and returned with a ship freighted with gold. He sailed 
 again, but the ship of gold, or the ' Golden Hynde,' came back, but it 
 did not bring him back. He had died on the Spanish main, and his 
 body was sunk in the deep sea, perhaps in one of his chests for gold." 
 " Captain Cook," said his father, " made three voyages around the 
 world, one in 1768, one in 1772, and one in 1776, or about those 
 dates." 
 
 " I have read that Captain Cook's vessel on which he made his 
 rst voyage around the world, was very small, of some three hundred 
 
 4
 
 50 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and seventy tons burden. I have contrasted that little ship with the 
 great ocean steamers of to-day. Let me read to you the tonnage of 
 some of these vessels : 
 
 " American. Paris, 10,800 tons ; New York, 10,800 tons. 
 
 "Anchor. City of Rome, 8,144 tons; Furnessia, 5,495 tons. 
 
 " Atlantic Transport. Mohawk, 8,000 tons; Manitoba, 8,000 tons; Mo- 
 bile, 8,000 tons; Massachusetts, 8,000 tons. 
 
 " Canard. Campania, 12,950 tons; Lucania, 12,950 tons; Etruria, 7,750 
 tons; Umbria, 7,718 tons; Servia, 7,391 tons; Aurania, 7,268 tons. 
 
 " French Transatlantic. La Touraine, 8,000 tons : La Champagne, 7,200 
 tons; La Bretagne, 7,200 tons; La Bourgogne, 7,200 tons; La Gascogne, 
 7,200 tons. 
 
 " Hamburg-American. Fiirst Bismarck, 9,000 tons; Normannia, 9,000 
 tons; Augusta Victoria, 7,000 tons; Columbia, 7,000 tons. 
 
 " North-German Lloyd. Spree, 6,963 tons ; Havel, 6,963 tons. 
 " White Star. Majestic, 10,000 tons; Teutonic, 10,000 tons. 
 
 " There are some other things that I have noted down," continued 
 Henry. " They relate to the seasons." 
 
 " Read them," said Mr. Davidson. 
 
 " Japan is the most beautiful in autumn, and should be visited in 
 October and November." 
 
 " Ceylon is the most lovely island in all the world, and should be 
 seen in January and February. 
 
 "The Mediterranean is usually calm in May and June. 
 
 " Egypt should be visited in the winter. 
 
 " March, April, and May are the best months in which to visit 
 Palestine. 
 
 " June, July, and August are the best months for the Alpine journey. 
 
 " And " 
 
 " Well ? " 
 
 "In these lands wear flannel. 
 
 " Thomas Cook in ' Cook's Tours Around the World,' publishes a
 
 SOME USEFUL THINGS TO KNOW FOR A VOYAGE. 51 
 
 table of distances, which picture the voyage we will make. I have 
 copied them : 
 
 TABLE OF DISTANCES. 
 By Sea. 
 
 From San Francisco to Sydney, 7,200 miles. 
 
 " San Francisco to Yokohama, 4,750 miles. 
 
 Vancouver to Yokohama, 4,334 miles. 
 
 " Sydney to Hong-Kong (via Torres Straits), 4,500 miles. 
 
 " Sydney to Colombo, 5,442 miles. 
 
 " Yokohama to Nagasaki, 735 miles. 
 
 " Nagasaki to Hong-Kong, 1,067 miles. 
 
 " Nagasaki to Shanghai, 350 miles, 
 
 " Shanghai to Hong-Kong, 870 miles. 
 
 " Hong-Kong to Singapore, 1,437 miles. 
 
 " Singapore to Colombo, 1,659 miles. 
 
 " Colombo to Port Said, 3,488 miles. 
 
 " Colombo to Tuticorin, 150 miles. 
 
 " Colombo to Calcutta (calling at Madras), 1,380 miles. 
 
 " Bombay to Ismai'lia, 3,016 miles. 
 
 Isma'flia to Port Said, 43 miles. 
 
 " Port Sa'fd to Brindisi, 930 miles. 
 
 " Port Sa'fd to Naples, 1,100 miles. 
 
 " Port Sa'fd to Malta, 935 miles. 
 
 Malta to Gibraltar, 981 miles. 
 
 " Gibraltar to London (direct), 1,299 miles. 
 
 " Cairo to Assouan (ist Cataracct), 583 miles. 
 
 Port Sa'fd to Alexandria, 155 miles. 
 
 " Port Sa'fd to Marseilles, 1,508 miles. 
 
 " Liverpool to New York, 2,980 miles. 
 
 " Calcutta to Rangoon, 787 miles. 
 
 Distances By Rail. 
 
 From New York to San Francisco (direct), 3,270 miles. 
 " Sydney to Melbourne, 576! miles. 
 " Melbourne to Adelaide, 5o8| miles. 
 
 Yokohama to Kobe, 358 miles. 
 " Colombo to Kandy, 75 miles. 
 " Tuticorin to Madras, 406 miles.
 
 52 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 From Calcutta to Darjeeling, 370 miles. 
 
 " Calcutta to Bombay (direct), 1,400 miles. 
 
 " Calcutta to Bombay (via Benares, Delhi, Agra, Jeypoor, etc.), 
 
 1,882 miles. 
 
 " Madras to Bombay, 793 miles. 
 
 " Brindisi to London, 1,450 miles. 
 
 " Venice to London, 1,041 miles. 
 
 " Naples to London, 1,358 miles. 
 
 " Marseilles to London, 822 miles. 
 
 " London to Liverpool (Midland Railway), 210 miles." 
 
 " Your facts are very interesting," said Mr. Davidson ; " but they 
 only relate to a part of the tour." 
 
 " I will continue," said Henry. " I said that I have read that the 
 loveliest spot on earth or island on earth is Ceylon. Here is the Bo 
 Tree, and the ruins of the temples of Anarajapoora. 
 
 " The most beautiful spot in Europe is said to be Lucerne. The 
 time to visit it is midsummer. 
 
 " One of the most picturesque places on earth is Andalusia in 
 April. Columbus dreamed of it on his voyage of discovery. 
 
 " The time to visit the south of South America is in our winter, 
 which is their summer. 
 
 " Montevideo is one of the healthiest ports of South America, and 
 may be visited at any time of the year. Buenos Ayres is also 
 healthy. 
 
 " Santiago de Chili is healthy, and one of the most beautifully 
 situated cities in the world. 
 
 " Spring in the Andes is nature in her glory, and 
 
 " Cuzco, Peru, is the most poetic of the historic places of the 
 three Americas." 
 
 " Then," said Mr. Davidson, " one should see Ceylon, the most 
 beautiful of all islands; Lucerne, the loveliest spot in Europe; Anda- 
 lusia in April if it were possible, Santiago de Chili in the Andes in 
 spring if it were possible, and Cuzco, the lofty empire of the Children 
 of the Sun. How about churches, temples, and buildings ? "
 
 SOME USEFUL THINGS TO KNOW FOR A VOYAGE. 
 
 53 
 
 LAKE LUCERNE. 
 
 "We would wish to see Taj Nahal, which is the most beautiful 
 building in the world, but that would be out of our way. The Pearl 
 Mosque is in the same part of India. The three most beautiful 
 buildings in the world are the Taj Nahal, St. Peter's, and the Capitol 
 at Washington, are they not? " 
 
 " I am not sure. I have heard that the Palace of Justice in Brus- 
 sels is the noblest of all occupied structures. I have been told that 
 it makes an overwhelming impression ; that it has a massiveness and 
 grandeur that belong to no other public building. 
 
 " I have also heard the castle and gardens of Chapultepec described 
 as the most beautiful place in the New World, and one of the most
 
 54 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 picturesque on earth. The Paseo, or the street some three or more 
 miles in length that connects the official palace of the City of Mexico 
 with the Castle of Chapultepec, is the most wonderful street in the 
 New World. Over it have passed Montezumas, Viceroys, and Presi- 
 
 CHAI'ULTEPEC. 
 
 dents. The garden of Chapultepec has a history and traditions of a 
 thousand years. 
 
 " The castle looks down upon the City of Mexico 
 
 " ' Picturesque where all is picture. } 
 
 and the dead volcano of Popocatapetl, gleaming with snows, looks 
 down upon the castle. The valley of the City of Mexico is one of 
 the most delightful in the world." 
 
 "Chapultepec Castle is not grand in itself," said Henry. 
 
 " It is grand in its form, history, and situation. It must be ranked
 
 SOME USEFUL THINGS TO KNOW FOR A VOYAGE. 57 
 
 with Cuzco among the places on our own continent which have the 
 most of romance and poetry, so I am told." 
 
 " From my reading," said Henry, " the following list represents the 
 things that I would most wish to see in all the world. They are 
 included in my first list in another order. 
 
 I. The Place of the Sermon on the Mount in Galilee. This sermon 
 governs the world. 
 
 II. The Island of Ceylon. The Buddhist or Booddhist is the largest 
 religious sect in the world. Without including one hundred and eighty million 
 followers of Brahma, the disciples of this faith number four hundred and twenty 
 million to four hundred and eight million Christians. Ceylon was the sacred 
 place of this philosophy. The Bo Tree is there. 
 
 III. St. Peter's in Rome. It is the heart of the Latin Church and history, 
 and the home of the arts. 
 
 IV. Lucerne, with the Rigi and Mount Pilatus, with its legends of William 
 Tell, of Liberty ; the reputed loveliest spot in all Europe. Also Zurich, Inter- 
 laken, and Munich and the Valhalla on the Danube. 
 
 V. Andalusia in April, or in early summer. 
 
 VI. The Battlefield of Waterloo. "Waterloo," says Victor Hugo, "was 
 not a battle ; it was the change of front of the Universe." 
 
 VII. Westminster Abbey. 
 
 VIII. The English Lake District. 
 
 IX. Niagara. 
 
 X. The Yosemite. 
 
 XL Santiago de Chili. 
 
 XII. Cuzco. 
 
 XIII. The Castle of Chapultepec. 
 
 " I have just added the last place to my list. And I would like 
 to see all mountains." 
 
 " And I all ports," said Mr. Davidson. " America has been called 
 ' new ports for old ships.' We shall be likely to see the valleys with 
 the mountains, and the seas with the ports. It is pleasant to live 
 in the anticipation of a journey. It is prospects that make us happy. 
 I enjoy the imagination of our plan. I like the study of it."
 
 58 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 In making his plans, Henry was studying geography as he had 
 never done before. And while he was poring over maps and books 
 of travel, Harold was giving his thought to those things that most 
 concern the welfare and progress of mankind. His study was how 
 to see that which would do him the most good in forming intelli- 
 gent and right views of human life. 
 
 " I would rather see the Mount of Olives than Galilee," said 
 Harold, " for that would be to overlook the scene of the most sub- 
 lime events of the world." 
 
 " We shall see them both," said Henry. 
 
 " Yes, but you put your thoughts on the lesser place, because 
 it is picturesque. There is one place that I would rather visit than 
 the Taj, the Alhambra, or even Lucerne or Cuzco, and that is 
 Zurich." 
 
 " Zurich ? " 
 
 " Yes, and from that city go to the associations of the lives of Pesta- 
 lozzi and Froebel. Pestalozzi founded the public schools of the world, 
 and Froebel the new education of children. Pestalozzi thought that 
 education stands for character, and Froebel that it is the true work 
 of early training to form right habits. Much of our education stands 
 for the making of a cunning brain, to rise over others in the com- 
 petitions of life. The influence of Pestalozzi is worth more than 
 grand scenery or the tombs of kings. It is destined to fill the world. 
 To see the place where he taught orphan boys, gave up his property 
 to an idea, and died amid ridicule and poverty, would be to meet a 
 history that would do one good. That would be to see something 
 that has power. 
 
 " Next to the homes and haunts of Pestalozzi and Froebel, I would 
 rather see the great English school at Santiago de Chili. That 
 stands for education in South America. I would next like to see 
 the public schools in Mexico. They stand for a new world. 
 
 " You have omitted the Midnight Sun. I would like to see that.
 
 SOME USEFUL THINGS TO KNOW FOR A VOYAGE. 
 
 59 
 
 But I would rather study the great emigration from the Northern 
 lands to the Argentine Republic and the forests of Washington and 
 
 Oregon and British Columbia.'' 
 
 THE TOWN-HALL, ZURICH. 
 
 Mr. Davidson joined his sons and listened with interest at the 
 discussion of what would be most useful to see on a voyage around 
 the world. 
 
 He added, 
 
 " That is the best which will best influence life. Those who travel 
 to see what is mean can find it; so with those that go to see the 
 beautiful, and the beautiful usually represents the good, for it is the
 
 6O ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 nature of what is good to be beautiful. I, like Harold, would like to 
 go to Zurich, or to Thuringia, for it was there that the great ideas 
 were born that inspired American forms of education. Pestalozzi 
 and Froebel represent, not only the greatest, but the best influences 
 in the world. It is a spiritual education to see the places of the men 
 who have most powerfully influenced the world for good."
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 NICARAGUA. CHICAGO. THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 THE YOSEMITE. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. 
 
 UR travellers left New York in June and went to Salt 
 Lake City by way of Niagara Falls and Chicago. 
 We have described Chicago in the " White City." 
 Niagara, of course, presented a view of the greatest 
 body of falling water in the world. This we have 
 treated in a former volume. 
 The wonderland of the Yellowstone ! Here are the most power- 
 ful geysers on earth. Here the world does not yet seem finished. It 
 boils. Here are twenty-six geysers and four hundred and fourteen 
 boiling springs. We have given a view of them in another book. 
 
 They visited the Giant and the Giantess and Old Faithful, and 
 beheld with amazement water leaping into the air to the height of two 
 hundred and fifty feet! But even more sublime than this boiling 
 earth was the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone. The Cataract of the 
 Canon awed them, even though they had just left the war, the 
 thunder, and the mist clouds of Niagara. 
 
 Says a railroad book called " Wonderland " of this majestic wall 
 and waterfall : 
 
 " To say that its cataract no mere silver ribbon of spray, but a 
 'all of great volume is a little more than twice the height of 
 .Niagara, would, by means of a familiar comparison, enable almost any 
 one to form a not altogether inadequate conception of its grandeur.
 
 62 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 But f.or the matchless adornment of its walls, we have no available 
 comparison ; naught but itself can be its parallel. One recent visitor 
 describes it as being hung with rainbows, like glorious banners. An- 
 other, borrowing from Mr. Rus- 
 kin, likens it to a great cathedral, 
 with painted windows, and full 
 of treasures of illuminated manu- 
 script. But, as we take our stand 
 on the brink of the Falls, with 
 twelve miles of sculptured rock 
 spread out before us, rising from 
 fifteen hundred to two thousand 
 feet in height, and all aflame 
 with glowing colour, we have to 
 acknowledge, with a distinguished 
 writer and a no less celebrated 
 artist, that, neither by the most 
 cunningly wrought fabric of lan- 
 guage nor the most skilful mani- 
 pulation of colour, is it possible to 
 create in the mind a conception 
 answering to this sublime reality, 
 For countless ages, frost and 
 snow, heat and vapour, lightning 
 and rain, torrent and glacier, have 
 wrought upon that mysterious 
 rock, evolving from its iron, its 
 sulphur, its arsenic, its lava, and 
 
 A CASCADE IN THE YELLOWSTONE PARK. fts HmC the gloHOUS apparel ill 
 
 which it stands arrayed. And 
 
 the wondrous fabrication is still going on. The bewildered traveller 
 .vould scarcely be surprised to see the gorgeous spectacle fade from
 
 ICELAND. 
 
 his vision like a dream ; but its texture is continually being renewed : 
 the giant forces are ever at work ; still, like the earth-spirit in Faust, 
 still do they 
 
 " ' Sit at the busy loom of time and ply, 
 
 Weaving for God the garment thou seest Him by.' " 
 
 The hot springs of Iceland are similar to those of the Yellowstone 
 Park, but are less powerful. A traveller says of them : 
 
 " They are about one hundred in number, and cover a section in the 
 south-western division of the island. 
 These springs are intermittent, 
 sending out fountains and jets of 
 boiling water, the vapours filling the 
 atmosphere around, and forming 
 billowy clouds, which may be seen 
 from among the mountains miles 
 away. 
 
 " The principal of these boiling 
 fountains is called the Great Geyser. 
 When quiet, this tempestuous cal- 
 dron presents the appearance of a 
 circular mound, some forty feet in 
 height, with a diameter of from 
 fifty to sixty feet. In the centre 
 of this mound is a well ten feet in 
 diameter, and about eighty feet 
 deep. This well is filled with water, 
 except immediately after an erup- 
 tion, by which it is left partly empty. 
 At intervals of an hour and a half, 
 a rumbling noise like thunder is 
 heard under ground, and the water 
 heaves up, overflowing the mound. 
 
 ICELANDIC GEYSER.
 
 64 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " The great eruptions of this Geyser, which take place at intervals 
 of about thirty hours, present a magnificent spectacle to the eye. 
 The coming of an eruption is announced by a rumbling sound, like 
 distant thunder, and by loud explosions, similar to the firing of cannon 
 under ground. The whole mass of water then rises into a column, 
 
 VIEW IN ICELAND. 
 
 to the height of from one hundred to two hundred feet, jet following 
 jet, while great clouds of vapour envelop the liquid streams in dense 
 masses, and, rolling away in airy mists, mingle with the sky. 
 
 " The Icelanders make practical use of the lesser springs. They 
 cook their food by the heat of the steam, they wash their clothes in 
 the boiling water, and perform their own ablutions in the delightful 
 vapour baths which some of the low fountains afford."
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 COLUMNS OF RED SANDSTONE. 
 
 The Yellowstone National Park region contains an area of some 
 three thousand six hundred and seventy-five square miles, and is 
 shadowed by mountains ten thousand and twelve thousand feet high. 
 It presents a view of more natural wonders than any like area in the 
 world. To cook one's meals on terraces overflowing with water 
 heated in the mysterious caverns of the earth, is one of the strangest 
 and most suggestive experiences that one can meet. The Park 
 has never been adequately explored, but the government roads are 
 excellent. 
 
 They went to San Francisco and the Yosemite, both of which 
 places we have noticed in a former volume. They embarked from 
 San Francisco for Australia by the way of Honolulu, Harold taking 
 a second-class passage, on one of the grand Pacific steamers. It is a 
 week's sail to Hawaii. The sea was calm, but freshened at times by 
 a pleasant breeze.
 
 66 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Honolulu is a very delightful city, with electric lights and some 
 fifteen miles of street railways. Good board at hotels was offered 
 at from two and a half to three and a half dollars per day. 
 
 Henry and his father prepared 
 to make a journey to thefamous vol- 
 cano Kilauea, the expense of which 
 from Honolulu is about fifty dol- 
 lars. Harold took " apartments " in 
 the city, and visited the tropical 
 country, which is free from smaller 
 and dangerous animals. By tak- 
 ing " apartments," which means a 
 single sleeping-room, with parlour 
 privileges, in travelling, and provid- 
 ing for one's meals at restau- 
 rants, one may live respectably and 
 wholesomely in most cities on a 
 dollar per day. 
 
 " I am not going to live 
 meanly," said Harold, " but like the 
 honest working-people wherever 
 I go." 
 
 He found respectable living 
 at this rate in Chicago, Salt Lake 
 City, San Francisco, and in Hon- 
 olulu. At this last place, he went 
 to the United States Consul for 
 directions. In Chicago and San 
 Francisco he sought out in the 
 
 directory the names of ministers, and went to parsonages for di- 
 rections. 
 
 " I am not a sectarian," he said, "but the denominations represent 
 honest working-folk, and I am travelling to see the people." 
 
 KILAUEA.
 
 THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. 
 
 6 7 
 
 The Sandwich Islands, or, as we commonly call them, Hawaii is 
 the half-way house between California and Japan. They lie in the 
 seas of the sun they are a part of the sun-bright world. 
 
 Their lofty peaks are a scene never to be forgotten as viewed from 
 a distance in the calm ocean. The islands are twelve in number, of 
 which Hawaii is one of the most important. They are rich in vege- 
 
 VIEW OF SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
 
 tation, palms, oranges, mangoes, bananas, bread-fruits and umbrella 
 trees, with a soft green turf. 
 
 They are volcanic, and the crater of Kilauea is one of the won- 
 ders of the world. It is nine miles in circumference. A traveller 
 thus described it : 
 
 " Very few persons have made the ascent of Mouna Loa, but to 
 those who have reached its summit is revealed a vision of wonder and
 
 68 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 WAVES OF FIRE. 
 
 grandeur which has no parallel in the world. This magnificent snow- 
 covered dome, whose base is sixty miles in diameter, is crowned by 
 a ghastly volcanic table-land, creviced, riven, and ashy, twenty-four 
 miles in circumference. Across this, the traveller makes his way 
 over strange masses of lava, across chasms and around ledges to the 
 edge of the summit crater, a region of inaccessible blackness and 
 horror, six miles in circumference, and more than eight hundred feet 
 in depth. At times, this crater is inactive for weeks, and then breaks 
 out with fire and lava-streams, and clouds of black smoke trailing 
 out thirty miles over the sea. 
 
 " At a height of four thousand feet upon the side of the great
 
 THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. 71 
 
 mountain is the crater of Kilauea, a comparatively easy ascent of 
 thirty miles from Hilo. This crater has the effect of a great pit in 
 a rolling plain, and the traveller approaching finds himself unawares 
 upon its very brink, just as he is beginning to doubt if he shall ever 
 reach it. Kilauea is nine miles in circumference, and its lowest area 
 covers six square miles. The depth of the crater varies from eight 
 hundred to eleven hundred feet in different years, according as the 
 molten sea below is at ebb or flood. Signs of volcanic activity exist 
 all through it and for some distance around its margin, in the form 
 of steam-cracks, jets of sulphurous vapour, blowing cones, and deposits 
 of sulphur, and the pit is constantly rent and shaken by earthquakes. 
 But in a lake in the southern part of the crater, the most marvellous 
 phenomena are constantly visible. To reach this lake, three miles 
 within the actual crater, the traveller must descend the terminal wall, 
 which is very precipitous, and then a second slope, thickly covered 
 with flowering plants and ferns of great beauty, and then a third 
 of rough blocks and ridges of broken lava, and so arrive at the lowest 
 level of the crater, presenting from above the appearance of a sea at 
 rest, but found to be an expanse of waves and convolutions of ashy- 
 coloured lava, with huge cracks filled up with black iridescent rolls 
 that were molten stone but a few weeks earlier. Parts are very rough 
 and ridgy, but most of the area presents the appearance of monstrous 
 coiled hawsers, the ropy formation of the lava rendering the illusion 
 almost perfect. All this is riven by cracks emitting hot sulphurous 
 vapour. Beyond, comes a ridge of lava, like the rim of a bowl, four 
 hundred feet high, most difficult of ascent ; and then the fiery lake 
 lies revealed. It is perhaps five hundred feet wide at its narrowest 
 part, and half a mile at its broadest, with craggy sides of lava. To 
 describe it seems impossible ; the prominent object is fire in motion, 
 but its surface continually skims over with a cool crust of a lustrous 
 grayish-white, like frosted silver broken by jagged cracks of bright 
 rose-colour. The movement is from the sides towards the centre, but
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the central movement seems distinct, and always directs itself towards 
 the south. All around the edge of the lake play fountains of fire, 
 leaping, dancing, whirling together, merging into one glowing mass, 
 
 which upheaves itself pyramidally, 
 then disappears with a tremendous 
 plunge, to form anew and again 
 disappear. 
 
 "At times two huge waves, rising 
 from opposite sides, move slowly 
 towards each other, gaining in 
 height as they advance. Rearing 
 their crests twenty feet above the 
 level of the lake, they meet. The 
 sound and shock is indescribable. 
 They form a whirling pyramid of 
 fire sixty feet high, scattering fiery 
 spray in every direction, then sink 
 and disappear, and the grayish 
 white scum forms again over the 
 lake. 
 
 " One most momentous effect 
 of volcanic action in the Hawaiian 
 Islands is the flow of lava, devasta- 
 ting the beautiful and fertile re- 
 gions around the mountains. Some 
 of these streams have been of ex- 
 traordinary extent and volume, 
 sweeping away farms and herds of 
 
 cattle, and even villages in their course. In April, 1868, the most tre- 
 mendous outflow of lava known in Hawaiian history took place. 
 There had been earthquakes and threatenings from the volcano, and 
 all minds were anxious as to the event, when, without a moment's warn- 
 
 LAVA BEDS.
 
 THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. 
 
 75 
 
 ing, the ground south of Hilo burst open with a crash and roar. A 
 molten river emerged through a fissure two miles long, with tremen- 
 dous force and volume. Four huge fountains of fire boiled up, throw- 
 ing lava and rocks of many tons' weight to a height of from five hun- 
 dred to a thousand feet. From these great fountains flowed to the 
 sea a rapid stream of red lava, rolling, rushing, tumbling, like a swollen 
 river, bearing along large rocks that made the lava foam as it dashed 
 down the precipice and through the valley into the sea, surging and 
 roaring throughout its length like a cataract, with a power and fury 
 perfectly indescribable. It was nothing less than a river of fire, from 
 two hundred to eight hundred feet wide and twenty deep, with a speed 
 varying from ten to twenty-five miles an hour. 
 
 " Thus were lost four thousand acres of valuable pasture land, and 
 a much larger quantity of magnificent forest." 
 
 Henry found in this chimney of the unknown world as wonderful 
 a scene on which to place the imagination as at Niagara and the Yel- 
 lowstone and Yosemite. Harold saw in Honolulu one of the loveliest 
 cities of the abodes of the emigrant races. The travellers sailed from 
 Honolulu to Yokohama. It was a long, uneventful voyage over a 
 quiet ocean plain.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 TALES AND AMUSEMENTS ON THE SEA. 
 
 THE STORY OF DEACON GRUBB AND THE OLD NICK. THE STORY OF THE MISER 
 OF MARSEILLES. CURIOUS ENTERTAINMENTS AND PUZZLES. 
 
 N these weeks at sea our travellers and their ship 
 acquaintances amused themselves by reading stories 
 aloud ; and also by getting up entertainments for 
 the saloon at evening, and by giving out curious 
 puzzles. 
 
 As checkers was a favorite game on board, Henry 
 
 read one evening a queer old New England tale, which was famous 
 in Boston a generation ago. It deeply interested all the passengers, 
 both as a story and an oddity of past literature. It was as follows : 
 
 DEACON GRUBB AND THE OLD NICK. 
 
 IT was many years ago, somewhere about the time of the Dark Day, or 
 the Comet, or the Great Earthquake, or the Cold Friday, or the Old French 
 War, one or the other of these distinguished epochs, which serve old crones 
 
 and gossips to fix their chronology, that there lived in the town of , in 
 
 the State of Massachusetts, a shrewd, calculating, demure old codger, known to 
 everybody round about as Deacon Grubb. His character will be so well un- 
 derstood by saying that he was a country deacon, that I shall be excused for 
 not delineating it at full length. Deacon Grubb cultivated a bit of a farm, 
 officiated as Town Clerk, drove something of a trade at auctioneering, manu- 
 factured wooden bowls and tin ware, and kept the only grocery shop in the 
 village, where he sold West India goods " of as good quality, and on as reason- 
 able terms, as could be found in the place." And of a truth, considering that
 
 DEACON GRUBB AND THE OLD NICK. 79 
 
 the Deacon had the monopoly of the trade, he must be allowed to have been 
 somewhat reasonable in his dealing, though his gallon pot had a trick of getting 
 jammed by accident, and his water-pail now and then overset into the rum 
 hogshead. By the exercise of all these occupations, by looking out for the 
 
 THE CATHEDRAL. 
 
 main chance, putting the best foot foremost, snatching at every good bone that 
 was offered, and sticking to the old precept " Get what you can, and keep 
 what you get," the Deacon contrived to lay up what he called an honest 
 penny before he was too old to relish the possession of a comfortable round sum. 
 As times went on, and the Deacon was waxed in wealth, he began to cast 
 about for new means to increase his stores. The more he got the more greedy 
 he became, a common case with many close-fisted fellows besides deacons.
 
 80 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Among other projects of speculation he cast his eyes upon a certain piece or 
 parcel of land with buildings thereon situated, belonging to Joel Wetherbrain, 
 an odd, incomprehensible sort of a fellow, who was never at home, but let his 
 lands run to waste, and his house fall to ruins. Nobody knew exactly what to 
 make of Joel ; whether he was fool or knave, a misanthrope or an enthusiast, 
 religious-mad, or honestly crack-brained in the way of nature; it were difficult 
 to decide the point at this late day, especially as my old aunt (of whom I had 
 this narrative, and who was a person of high reputation for veracity, for she 
 never forgot a particle of a story she heard) was dubious about the matter her- 
 self. However, that was neither here nor there. The Deacon took it hugely 
 to heart that Joel's tenements should thus lie idle ; and he formed a pious reso- 
 lution to trap Joel's five wits in a bargain for the same, whereby if he could get 
 the estate a good pennyworth, he should turn it to an excellent account in the 
 end, and quiet his conscience by the reflection that he made fruitful one of the 
 waste places of the earth. 
 
 Though the Deacon had probably heard of a certain command forbidding 
 him to covet his neighbour's house, yet he either thought the precept inappli- 
 cable in the case of a house without an inhabitant, or the temptation was too 
 strong to be resisted. As he was one day sharking about the grounds, and 
 admiring the advantages of the situation, the fatness of the soil, and the solidity 
 of the old mansion, which, though a little shabby on the outside from neglect, 
 was sound and compact in frame and substance, he unexpectedly encountered 
 Joel, and in a sly, roundabout way contrived to have the subject touched upon. 
 They made a long haggling piece of work of it, and at last the Deacon con- 
 sented, although the situation was wretched, the land poor, and the house ready 
 to tumble to pieces, to give Joel about half of what it cost originally. Joel 
 clenched the bargain, and the Deacon went home hugging himself with the 
 thought of having made a great spec. 
 
 Well, now had the Deacon got his heart's desire. He quickly set himself 
 to repairing the old house, and putting the fields in order; in a short time the 
 whole was neat and flourishing. 
 
 The Deacon removed to his new estate ; the minister preached a sermon 
 the next Sunday from the text, " The hand of the diligent maketh rich," and 
 everybody thought it the grandest bargain that had been made since the worthy 
 settlers of the town cheated the Indians out of the land, at the expense of three 
 cracked muskets and a pot of red paint. 
 
 But just as the Deacon had taken comfortable possession of the premises, 
 and Joel Wetherbrain had bidden adieu to the place, there got all at once into 
 circulation the most alarming reports about the estate in question. There
 
 A DYAK OF BORNEO.
 
 DEACON GRUBB AND THE OLD NICK. 
 
 PALACE OF COPAL BHOWAN. 
 
 were stories of ghosts, goblins, and demons frequenting the place for some 
 wonderful cause that nobody could explain. It was even said that Old Beelze- 
 bub himself haunted the house in the shape of a tin-ware peddler, and that 
 he appeared every Thanksgiving night at twelve o'clock, rattling up and down 
 the house, and making such a clatter and tantararra as to frighten everybody 
 within hearing out of their wits. The Deacon was horrified at these accounts, 
 the more so as he found they were universally believed. How the stories ori- 
 ginated, nobody could tell ; every one had heard them of somebody else ; but 
 there was nothing talked of but Deacon Grubb and the haunted house. It was 
 generally believed that Old Beelzebub had taken up his quarters there, and 
 that it would be difficult to rout him. The Deacon had overreached every 
 man in the town, and with all their respect for the talents of Old Nick, it was 
 thought if the Deacon and the Devil came to close quarters, they would make 
 a tough match of it. 
 
 It is easy to imagine the tribulation into which the poor man was thrown
 
 84 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 by cogitating upon this matter. There was no doubt the stories were true, for 
 this was the only manner in which Joel Wetherbrain's neglect of the estate 
 could be accounted for, a matter which he unluckily forgot to question him 
 about at the time of making the bargain. It was now clearly perceived why 
 Joel was so ready to part with it at so low a price, and the Deacon could not 
 avoid fretting himself into a fever, with chagrin at the thought of having been 
 overreached by such a crack-skull as Joel. Instead of making a great bargain, 
 he found he had bought a " pig in a poke." 
 
 However, after having been a few weeks settled in his new residence, his 
 apprehensions began to subside. He took care to nail a horse-shoe upon his 
 barn door, and another upon the gate in front of the house, and trusting in 
 these sovereign precautions against witchcraft and diablerie of all colours, he 
 made himself tolerably easy, thinking his muniments sufficiently strong to defy 
 Beelzebub and all his tricks ; but he soon found out the Devil is not so easily 
 got rid of the more is the pity. 
 
 One Saturday evening, after the Deacon had shut up his shop, and de- 
 spatched those little items of business in the grocery line which are most con- 
 veniently done with closed doors, he sat down alone in his chimney corner to 
 enjoy a comfortable pipe of tobacco. He continued a long while puffing and 
 cogitating, but whether his thoughts were occupied with the spiritual concerns 
 of the coming day, or were wrapt up in calculations on the profits of the past 
 one, it becomes me not to judge; my old aunt had her opinion upon this 
 point, but I could never get it out of her. 
 
 It had got to be near midnight, and there was not a soul stirring. A dead 
 silence reigned throughout the mansion, broken by nothing save the ticking 
 of a death watch and a subdued pianissimo sort of grunt which accompanied 
 every puff of smoke from the Deacon's lips. The candle had burnt down 
 to the socket, and began to flicker a fitful and uncertain light, and the Deacon 
 was in the midst of a profound reverie, with his eye fixed upon the lower end 
 of a pot-hook which hung down the chimney. 
 
 All at once he was startled by a strange noise. He looked round, the 
 room was full of smoke from his tobacco pipe, and the candle in the act of 
 expiring; a sudden fear crept over him, as he thought of the stories concern- 
 ing the house. But there was nothing to be seen. In a few seconds he heard 
 the same noise still louder, and now it seemed to come from the chimney. He 
 poked his head up the chimney and listened, but all was still. " It can be noth- 
 ing," said he to himself, " but the wind roaring over the top of the chimney." 
 
 He sat down again, put another candle in the candlestick, took up a coal 
 with the tongs, and was blowing it, when he heard the same noise come down
 
 PAGODA NEAR KUTTACK.
 
 DEACON GRUBB AND THE OLD NICK. 87 
 
 the chimney again, and presently a hollow, strange-sounding voice. In sur- 
 prise and astonishment he looked up and espied a couple of dim, wavering 
 lights at the top of the chimney ; but whether they were a pair of fixed stars, or 
 the twinklers of an enormous cat, he could not tell. Presently they grew larger, 
 and at length turned whitish and ghastly, like a pair of peeled onions or a 
 couple of eggs in a soap-dish. " Mercy on my sins ! " exclaimed he, " what 
 can this mean?" He had no time to answer his own question, for immediately 
 there came a voice down the chimney, which sounded like a Dutchman bawling 
 through a speaking-trumpet: " Deacon ! Deacon ! " " What in Heaven's name 
 do you want of me? " " Deacon, have you watered the rum ? " - " Y-e-e-e-es," 
 was the slow and most unwilling reply. " Have you sanded the brown 
 sugar?" " Ye-e-es." "Said your prayers?" " Yes." " Then set me a 
 chair." 
 
 The Deacon knew not what to make of the ceremony of his new guest who 
 thus honoured him with a visit by pitching head foremost down his chimney; 
 but knowing that some gentlemen of fashion are singular in their tastes, and 
 wisely conjecturing that the Old Nick might have his whims as well as the rest 
 of them, he determined to humour him. So setting an arm-chair by the fire- 
 place, and answering that all was ready, down came the mysterious visitor slap 
 into the fireplace, overturning, as he landed, a tea-kettle, a coffee-pot, and a 
 pan of stewed apples. The Deacon wished him joy of his safe descent, and 
 expressed an apprehension that he had burnt his knuckles in the hot ashes; 
 but his guest replied very civilly that he might be easy on that score, for he 
 had a hand in such matters too often to mind a little scorching. Then brush- 
 ing the ashes and soot from his knees and elbows, he sat down in the chair, 
 crossed his legs, gave a long deep-drawn sniff, probably to ascertain whether 
 there was any of his favourite perfume of brimstone to be smelt, turned up the 
 whites of his enormous eyes, and gave the Deacon a most ominous and inquisi- 
 tive scowl, which the Deacon returned by inviting him to smoke a pipe of 
 tobacco. The man of the chimney replied that tobacco did not agree with him 
 he would smoke a bunch of matches or a roll of brimstone if the time 
 allowed; but as his stay must be short this night, he would not trouble the 
 Deacon to fetch the tinderbox. 
 
 " Then you come upon business ? " replied the Deacon. " You are right," 
 said the other. " Then proceed to the matter, if you please." " Not till twelve 
 o'clock," said the man of brimstone, "not till midnight; and it wants ten 
 minutes of the hour," casting at the same time a look at the Deacon's wooden 
 clock, which he had bought of a Connecticut peddler, and paid for in damaged 
 Bohea tea. " Oh, ah," said the Deacon, " if that time does not suit you, I can
 
 88 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 alter it." So, going to the clock, and moving forward the minute hand, " I have 
 taken the liberty sometimes," continued he, " to put back the time on Saturday 
 night, when there was danger of my business crowding over into Sunday, and 
 now I can make up for what has been lost by putting it forward. See there," 
 said he, as the hands of the clock pointed to twelve, " it is now midnight ; let 
 me know your business. I hate to encroach upon the Sabbath but would not 
 turn away a customer." At this the gentleman, giving a tremendous grin, 
 exclaimed, " Deacon, they have always said you beat the Devil for tricks, and 
 I begin to fear it may turn out so. The truth is, I have come to give you a 
 try." " At your service, friend Beelzebub," said the Deacon. " But I don't 
 understand you." " Why, Deacon, you must know that this house and this 
 estate are mine." "Yours! no such thing!" "Yes, they fell to me from 
 their ancient owner, Hector Morterhead, a famous player at checkers, who being 
 engaged once at play, and told he would lose, exclaimed in passion, ' The 
 Devil fetch me and all I own if I do not beat.' He lost the game, and I 
 have haunted this house ever since." " Umph ! " ejaculated the Deacon. 
 " Now, Deacon," continued he, " every man who attempts to occupy this spot, 
 must play a game of checkers with me ; if he wins the game, he may remain in 
 peaceable possession ; I have beat every one so far; it is now your turn to try." 
 
 This was the strangest proposal that the Deacon had ever heard of for 
 deciding a litigated point as to the possession of real estate ; but as there was 
 no remedy, he submitted, and producing his checker-board, they sat down to 
 the trial. The Deacon was celebrated for his knowledge of the game, and 
 would have puzzled his adversary had he been any other than what he was ; 
 but he soon found that he must lose. " It is almost broad day," said he. " I 
 really cannot play on Sunday ; let us put off the rest of the game till another 
 time ! " "I am willing," replied his opponent, " to grant any reasonable accom- 
 modation, especially to gentlemen of your degree. Everybody will grant that 
 deacons are long-lived, I wait a long time for them. I allow you a delay 
 this once. Next Saturday night I will call again, when the game must be 
 finished." So saying, he vanished up the chimney. 
 
 I suppose my readers will imagine that the Deacon's sole object in putting 
 off the game was to delay the completion of it as long as he could. Not so, 
 he only wanted an opportunity of getting ready a trick against his adversary, 
 which came into his head just as he was upon the point of giving up the game. 
 He bethought himself of one of his old tricks, by which he used to play the 
 game slyly of a Sunday. " It will do his business for him," said the Deacon, 
 exultingly, " for although fire will not burn his fingers, something else will." 
 
 The visitor came according to appointment the next Saturday night, and
 
 DEACON GRUBB AND THE OLD NICK. 91 
 
 sat down to play without taking notice that the board was different from that 
 used on the first night. The first move he made, his hand was seized with a 
 trembling; at the next move he lost his king, and at the third all hope of 
 achieving his promised victory had vanished ; and at every step his affairs grew 
 more desperate, and finally at the seventh move the Deacon had won the game. 
 The man of brimstone sprang from his seat in a passion, and overturned 
 the checker-board with a single blow of his fist when lo ! it appeared he had 
 been playing upon the covers of the Deacon's great Bible ! In an instant he 
 went off in a whiz up the chimney, and neither he nor any of his imps ever 
 dared to try their tricks with the Deacon afterwards. 
 
 Another story which Henry read was of a different character. It 
 was old, and of unknown authorship. It touched the hearts of all. 
 The passengers often referred to it afterwards. It was 
 
 THE MISER OF MARSEILLES. 
 
 MARSEILLES is a city of fountains, and has a fine aqueduct, almost entirely 
 subterranean, by which pure water is brought from the little rivers Huveaume 
 and Jiivet. But this was not always the case. 
 
 Once upon a time I know not the exact date there dwelt at Marseilles 
 a man named Guyot, with his wife and one son. They were but humble people, 
 and at the time my narrative begins, the child lay sick of a fever, his tongue 
 cleaving to the roof of his mouth, and his little hot hand pressed to the still 
 hotter forehead, while he constantly asked, in a plaintive tone, for a draught of 
 water. 
 
 " Alas ! my child," said Madame Guyot, in reply to his moaning, " you 
 know I have told you already the cistern is empty. Not a drop of water have 
 I in the house, and I fear all our neighbours are as badly off as ourselves. See, 
 take this milk; it is all I can give you." 
 
 "But, mother, it is not like water," replied the boy; " it makes me more 
 thirsty, and chokes me, it seems so thick; while water is so cold, and refreshes 
 me for a long time. If it would but rain, for I am burning ! Oh, if I were 
 rich I would care little for the finest wines, if I had but plenty of fresh, pure, 
 cold water." 
 
 Madame Guyot strove to pacify the young sufferer ; and having succeeded 
 in partially relieving his cravings by means of a draught of water, which a kind 
 neighbour, scarcely better off than herself, sent by the hand of her little daugh- 
 ter, he at length slept.
 
 92 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS* AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Seven years later, and the fever-stricken boy had grown into a fine, 
 thoughtful youth of sixteen. No longer dependent on his parents, the young 
 Jacques Guyot cheerfully performed his part in gaining a living. 
 
 One evening, after his return from work, as Madame Guyot was busily 
 engaged in placing the evening meal on the table, she said to her son, 
 " Jacques, you must be content with less than your usual quantity of water 
 to-night, for again the cistern is nearly dry." 
 
 " I am sorry for that, mother," replied Jacques ; " but though we have 
 often since been very scarce of water, at least we have never wanted it so badly 
 as when I had the fever." 
 
 " Oh, Jacques, can you ever forget that? " 
 
 44 Never. No day passes, but the torture I suffered then for a draught of 
 water comes into my mind; and I envy no man his wealth in anything save 
 his more abundant supply of that one good gift. Is there no way of relieving 
 this want, by which the poor of Marseilles suffer so much and so often?" 
 
 " It is just because the poor are those who suffer, that they must continue 
 to do so ; wealth might remedy the evil," answered his father. 
 
 41 How so? " asked Jacques. 
 
 44 Easily enough. Only let an aqueduct be constructed, to bring pure 
 water from a distant river." 
 
 44 And what would that cost, think you? " 
 
 "More money than you can count," replied the elder Guyot; " so let us 
 to our supper before it is as cold as the water you are always dreaming about." 
 
 The meal over, Jacques wandered in the garden, thoughtful and silent, but 
 not unnoticed by his parents. They talked about the extraordinary manner 
 in which his mind dwelt on the one night of suffering from thirst so long 
 gone by. 
 
 " It is strange," said Madame Guyot, " how the lad is always thinking of it. 
 I quite feared to tell him how little water we have left to-night, for it seems to 
 grieve and trouble him so much ; not for ourselves alone, but lest some unfor- 
 tunate should have to bear sufferings like those he experienced seven years 
 ago." 
 
 4< Well," replied the father, " even that is not the chief object of his 
 anxiety." 
 
 "Why, surely he does not fancy himself in love yet!" said Madame 
 Guyot, in an accent of alarm. "Our neighbour's daughter, Madeline, casts 
 sheep's eyes at him, I know, young as he is ; and Jacques often tells her how like 
 a little angel she seemed to him when her mother made her the bearer of that 
 draught of water. But it is doubtless only nonsense, for he is still a boy, and 
 she a full year younger."
 
 AN UNPLEASANT NEIGHBOUR.
 
 THE MISER OF MARSEILLES. 95 
 
 " I was not thinking of Madeline, wife," replied Monsieur Guyot : " in my 
 opinion, Jacques loves something else better than all the little damsels in the 
 world, I mean money. He is always hoarding every sou he can collect, and 
 trying, by all sorts of extra services, to earn more than his daily wages; and 
 I almost fear our son will turn miser, since he spends nothing he can avoid." 
 
 " Oh, if that be the case, he is doubtless thinking of some girl, and trying 
 to save against the time when he is old enough to marry ; but he is a good 
 youth," added Madame Guyot, brushing a tear from her eye at the thought of 
 having a rival in the love of her only child. 
 
 The return of Jacques here stopped the conversation. Hours after his par- 
 ents were at rest, the youth sat by the lattice in his little chamber. Little knew 
 the parents of Jacques by what strong feelings he was actuated, though both 
 were in part right, the father when speaking of his almost miserly habits, 
 the mother in believing that her son loved Madeline. 
 
 The youth possessed one of those thoughtful natures which become old 
 too soon ; and those who wonder at love in a boy of sixteen, must remember 
 that in Southern France the blood runs warmer than in our country. 
 
 It was indeed wonderful how he always thought of Madeline in connection 
 with that night of feverish agony, how like a ministering angel the child had 
 seemed in his eyes when she tripped lightly in with the cooling draught to 
 satisfy his longing. The cup of cold water had worked with a marvellous 
 charm, and the youth regarded the girl with a feeling akin to worship. In the 
 eyes of others, she was just a bright-eyed, laughing thing, somewhat wilful and 
 capricious at times, as girls are apt to be ; but to poor Jacques, she was a being 
 of heavenly beauty. 
 
 The recent scarcity of water had again brought the old scene most vividly 
 to his mind, and you might have seen by the moonlight how pale and agitated 
 was his face. After a long silence, he rose, and, taking from a secret place a 
 sum of money, large for him to possess, he slowly counted it, and then, gazing 
 on his treasure, said softly, 
 
 " It might be done in a long lifetime ; but, O Madeline ! Madeline ! " 
 Then, with tears streaming down his cheeks, he flung himself on his knees to 
 pray. Poor Jacques, he prayed with such earnest, simple faith that he rose 
 tranquil, and, seeking his couch, soon fell into a sound sleep. 
 
 Three more years went by, still Jacques continually added to his store. 
 So scrupulous was he in denying himself every superfluity that the neighbours 
 whispered how the young Guyot had become a miser. Some did more 
 than whisper, they spoke openly to his mother respecting this peculiarity in 
 her son.
 
 g6 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Madame Guyot looked very sagacious, and gave mysterious hints about 
 the virtue of sparing on one's self, to spend on another. 
 
 Let love be the presumed cause of a man's actions, and a woman will 
 hardly ever deem him in the wrong, however extravagant they may be. So 
 it was with the gossips ; and from that time, many a sly joke was levelled at 
 Madeline, till the little damsel's head was almost turned with thinking of the 
 of course much magnified riches which were hoarded by her admirer for 
 her to spend some day. 
 
 She felt that she was beloved, for it is not hard to divine when one is the 
 dearest of all earthly objects to a pure and honest heart ; but, in spite of her 
 convictions in this respect, the conduct of Jacques was a sad puzzle to her. 
 
 " He is never so happy as when by my side," she would often say to her 
 mother, " that any one may see; but I do not think he cares to gain me for 
 a wife." 
 
 The mother would bid her be patient, and all would in time turn out well ; 
 but Madeline thought there should be some limit to the expected patience, so 
 she would pout her cherry lips, and give Jacques short answers. 
 
 Still, though she evidently succeeded in giving him pain, he seemed as far 
 from declaring his sentiments as ever. 
 
 The crisis, however, came at last. Madeline had a Cousin Marie, who was 
 not only a near neighbour, but also a sort of rival beauty. There had been no 
 slight jealousy between the girls on the subjects of love and marriage ; but 
 Marie had at last triumphed, and, the day for her own wedding being fixed, 
 she openly twitted Madeline about her laggard lover. 
 
 This was a sad blow to the vanity of the young girl. 
 
 The wedding-day came, and she, of course, was one of the guests, together 
 with Jacques ; and the girl, bent on punishing her tardy admirer, coquetted 
 with others by his very side. But she did not stop at coquetry only. The 
 brother of the bridegroom, a gay and handsome fellow, now at Marseilles for 
 the first time, was smitten with her charms, and after the wedding found or 
 made many excuses for visiting her. 
 
 Jacques, it seemed, would not be piqued into submission, and she was not 
 inclined cither for a spinster's life, or a longer silent wooing; so, after some 
 hesitation on the part of her parents, who still leaned to their young neighbour, 
 Madeline was betrothed to the stranger. 
 
 When the marriage day came, Jacques remained shut up in his little 
 chamber. Neither food nor drink passed his lips ; but could he have been 
 seen by any one, a mighty mental conflict would have been revealed to the 
 watcher. It was the last great conflict with human passion. The last bar to 
 his devoting himself to one great object was removed.
 
 
 
 A CAVE-DWELLER.
 
 THE MISER OF MARSEILLES. 
 
 99 
 
 The gossips who had aforetime interested themselves so liberally in the 
 affairs of Jacques once more twitted Madame Guyot, saying it plainly was not 
 love that made her son such a miser in his habits; but she answered them, 
 more proudly than ever, that Jacques would now look higher for a wife. 
 
 So, first one great lady and then another was said to be the fair object for 
 whom our hero cherished a secret passion, and whom he was trying to equal in 
 wealth. But though Madame Guyot fostered the idea, she, poor soul, knew 
 better; for only a few days after the marriage of his one love, Jacques had 
 begged her, in a broken voice, to find out whether the little vessel in which 
 Madeline had borne the precious draught of water to his bedside, a dozen long 
 years ago, were still in existence. 
 
 " Oh, my son," said Madame Guyot, " since you did so love Madeline, why 
 did you let her go ? She would not now be the wife of a stranger, if you had 
 asked her for yourself." 
 
 " Better as it is, mother," replied Jacques, though his lip quivered while he 
 spoke, and he again begged his mother to procure what he had mentioned, at 
 any cost. 
 
 Madame Guyot's mission proved successful, though the mother of Made- 
 line marvelled greatly at the request ; and both the worthy matrons agreed that 
 the conduct of Jacques was a problem beyond their power to solve. Eagerly 
 was the little vessel seized by him, and, after bestowing many grateful thanks 
 on his mother, he conveyed it to his own little room. 
 
 Could the thing of clay have spoken, it might have told how, when others 
 slept, Jacques spent many an hour in sighs, and even tears. Ay, for every 
 drop of water it had once held, the strong man paid in tears a thousandfold. 
 
 Years sped on, and the father and mother of Jacques passed from the 
 earth. The young man had been called a miser, even during their lifetime, 
 but now, indeed, he merited the title. 
 
 Ever craving for money, he added to his store by the strictest parsimony. 
 His clothes were patched by himself again and again, till no traces of the 
 original stuff remained. Generally his feet were bare, and even when he wore 
 any covering on them, it consisted of old shoes which had been cast away as 
 worthless, and picked up by him in his solitary wanderings through the town. 
 
 His food was of the coarsest description, and taken simply to sustain life. 
 He no longer occupied the dwelling in which his early days had been spent; 
 his present home was an old and roomy house, built with a degree of strength 
 which defied any attempt at entrance unsanctioned by the will of its occupant, 
 at least, without a degree of force being used which would inevitably have led 
 to discovery.
 
 100 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Here, then, dwelt Jacques Guyot quite alone. But far worse than alone 
 was he when absent from his house ; for the evil repute in which he was held 
 was such that as he walked the little children ran shouting after him, 
 
 " There goes Guyot. See the wretched miser, how thin he is ! He grudges 
 himself food to make himself fat, and clothes to cover his lean old body," 
 
 Then the mischievous urchins would cast stones at Jacques, and load him 
 with insults, unchecked by their parents. 
 
 But even this was not the worst. One day he met a friend, or at least he 
 had been such in youth, and whom he had not seen for many a long year. For 
 the moment, Jacques forgot his rags and his isolation, it was so long since a 
 kindly word had been bestowed on him, and oh, how he yearned to win it. 
 
 Eagerly he advanced, with an indescribable gleam of joy lighting his 
 pinched features ; but his former comrade shrank back, holding up his hands, 
 as if to forbid his nearer approach, saying, as he did so, "I will not hold 
 communion with a thing like you. Did you not love your money better than 
 her who ought to be your wife? But you suffered a stranger to carry her away, 
 and now the accursed thing is dearer to you than yourself, though you have 
 neither child nor kin to whom to leave it. Away ! touch me not ! " 
 
 Another trial came still later, and it was the hardest of all. A portly dame, 
 elderly, but still fresh and comely-looking, and with a fair daughter by her 
 side, passed leisurely along the streets of Marseilles. They seemed to be new 
 arrivals ; but the elder one was evidently no stranger, for she pointed out to 
 her daughter various changes which had been made of late. 
 
 Jacques Guyot looked earnestly at the girl, for her features brought vividly 
 to his mind those of the object of his one love-dream ; and as he came near, he 
 heard her mother call her Madeline. Another glance, and he recognised the 
 elder female as the Madeline of his youth. 
 
 Though so many years had gone over his head, his pale face was in a 
 moment flushed. 
 
 Again he forgot the curses and the stones daily showered around him; the 
 vision of the bright-eyed child, with the little treasured pitcher in her hand, was 
 before him, and he too was for an instant young ; but for how brief an instant ! 
 
 Madeline, even in her distant home, had heard of the miser Guyot, who 
 heaped up wealth, though with none to share it, and denied even the smallest 
 aid to the miserable, though surrounded with gold. Even at that moment, too, 
 she heard the taunts of the passers-by; so, gathering her skirts closely around 
 her, as though his very touch would poison, she swept by with such a look 
 of scorn as rooted the miser to the spot, and brought back the sense of his 
 loneliness more terribly than ever.
 
 TEMPLE OX HATCHIMAN.
 
 THE MISER OF MARSEILLES. 103 
 
 Though no inhabitant of Marseilles ever entered the miser's dwelling dur- 
 ing his life, yet I am able to tell how he 'spent his time there. I know he never 
 entered his silent, comfortless home without feeling that his heart would leap 
 with joy to hear a friendly voice, or if he might be permitted to clasp a child 
 to his bosom. 
 
 I know that, in spite of insults, reproaches, and taunts, his heart teemed with 
 loving-kindness to his fellow-creatures, and often when suffering from them, he 
 would even smile, and "murmur, " It is because they know me not; for one day 
 these curses will be turned to blessings." 
 
 Ay, and that, when seated on his hard bench, to take the food needful to 
 prolong his life until the object should be accomplished for which he had given 
 up all that could tend to its enjoyment, he prayed for a blessing on his coarse 
 fare ; and I know, too, that after each more biting proof of scorn from those 
 around him, he asked from-the same Almighty Source strength to "endure to 
 the end." 
 
 A very old man was Jacques Guyot when the end came ; but he met it with 
 joy, for he had lived long enough to finish his self-imposed task. Stretched 
 upon his wretched pallet, he smiled, and talked to himself. 
 
 " Ah, Jacques," said he, " they will never more call thee accursed. The 
 last stone has been cast at thy worthless carcass." 
 
 But, oh, what joy to think the miser had not lived in vain ! One hour 
 after, and the miser lay dead. 
 
 As soon as he was missed from his daily haunts, the propriety of examin- 
 ing his dwelling suggested itself to the townspeople ; for there were many 
 who would not touch him while living who would gladly have acted as his 
 executors. 
 
 The authorities of the town took possession of a sealed paper which 
 Jacques, ere he lay down to die, had placed in a conspicuous position. It was 
 his will, duly executed, and contained these words : 
 
 " Having observed from my youth that the poor of Marseilles are ill sup- 
 plied with water, which can be procured for them only at a great cost, I have 
 cheerfully laboured all my life to gain them this great blessing, and I bequeath 
 all I possess to be spent in building an aqueduct for their use." 
 
 Jacques had told the truth. The curses had turned into blessings, and his 
 death made a city full of self-reproaching mourners. Many a man has won the 
 name of hero by one gallant deed ; but he who made a conquest of a city by 
 the continued heroism of a long life, methinks deserves the name indeed. 
 
 And thus I have told you to whom the inhabitants of Marseilles owe their 
 aqueduct.
 
 104 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Among the puzzles that amused for a time the passengers was 
 the folding of a paper in such a way as to produce a five-cornered 
 star, with "one clip of the scissors." When Betsy Ross, of Philadel- 
 phia, was asked by Washington to make a national flag, she showed 
 him a model with six-cornered stars. The General objected to this 
 star, as it had been used by oppressors. " A five-cornered star," he 
 said. She folded a piece of paper, or cloth, and cut it once, and said, 
 " Well, here it is, with one clip of the scissors" How did she do it ? 
 
 THE TALKING DOLL. 
 
 BISHOP PHILLIPS BROOKS, of Boston, like Charles Dickens, de- 
 lighted to join in holiday amusements with children. It is very pleas- 
 ant to hear Sunday-school teachers of Doctor Brooks's old parish, 
 Trinity, recall these diversions, and picture the generous, warm-hearted 
 manner in which the rector entered into them. 
 
 Phillips Brooks loved children, and his Easter gifts to them, and 
 the words with which he gave them, will live long in the memory of 
 the people of the parish. 
 
 Bishop Brooks not only loved to make children happy, and to 
 enter into the April atmospheres of young life, renewing his own youth 
 amid such hopeful and inspiring influences, but he liked merry games, 
 like "Marching around Jerusalem," games in which the happy- 
 heartedness was contagious and universal. 
 
 One of my friends was for years a leader in these parish sports 
 and games. He has told me of one diversion, known as " The Talk- 
 ing Doll," that may be new to people out of Boston. It used to 
 greatly interest the rector, as it was an unfailing source of wonder and 
 mirth. I will not describe it exactly as it used to be given at those 
 merrymakings, but will show how it might be produced in a very 
 simple manner. 
 
 The talking doll in the amusements that we have mentioned,
 
 THE TALKING DOLL. IO; 
 
 acted rather than talked. It bowed and nodded. It bent its head 
 for " yes," and shook its head for " no," in response to questions. It 
 made faces ; it smiled, frowned, and opened its eyes as with joy, and 
 shut them as in sorrow. 
 
 It could tell fortunes in response to questions, and express in its 
 features the happy intents and awful meanings of fate. The questions 
 asked it were usually comical, and the responses were irresistibly 
 funny. 
 
 The queerest mystery of the merry meetings used sometimes to 
 be this same talking doll. How could a real doll be so intelligent? 
 The solution was very simple, the doll was made on the hand and 
 arm of a young woman. 
 
 The latter rested in a covered box close to a table, and stretched 
 up her doll-dressed hand and arm through the cover. The move- 
 ments of her fingers inside of the small oracle would cause many 
 curious expressions on the painted face. 
 
 The doll can be made to talk as well as to act. In figure it must 
 be a girl, with a long dress, so as to prevent its connection with the 
 box being seen. The side of the box next to the table and table- 
 cover may be open, as it could not be seen, and the doll be quite a 
 tall little girl, bending at the elbow as if bowing from the hips. 
 
 The doll will act from the cover of the box, and the cover should 
 be carpeted or overhung with a cloth. A tube extending from the 
 mouth of the person concealed in the box to the head of the talking 
 doll would cause the doll to seem to speak when desired. When 
 flexible motions without words are required of the doll, the tube can 
 be withdrawn. 
 
 Or a person may lie down under a table, and the doll's dress may 
 be made to cover his head, which may protrude from under the table. 
 
 This amusement caused a pleasant surprise in the saloon.
 
 108 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 THE ORANGE MILL. 
 
 THEY also had the orange mill. To make an orange mill : Cut 
 the top from a large navel, or seedless, orange, and press into the 
 orange through this pared-off end three cubes of lump sugar. Serve 
 within an hour, giving to each guest such an orange. You will say : 
 
 " This is an orange mill. Press it gently, and you will hear it 
 grind. It will produce nectar. Try it, and sip the nectar whenever, 
 or as often as, any one says a bright thing ! " 
 
 A gentle pressure will cause the blocks of sugar to rub against 
 each other, and a rich juice to rise to the top, which is to be drunk 
 from the orange. An orangeade is thus produced, of a very delightful 
 quality and flavour. 
 
 The mill is a surprise. It seems to be inexhaustible. At every 
 pressure for a long time the golden liquid rises. The acid slowly 
 dissolves the lumps of sugar, which are the mill wheels ; and as this 
 kind of orange is exceedingly juicy, one is led to wonder if there be 
 some magic source of supply. 
 
 After the secret is out, the guests may prepare their own oranges. 
 If the sugared juice be poured out into a glass, and water be added, 
 a very fine orangeade is made, which some would prefer to the pure 
 juice. 
 
 The sea was calm, the people happy, and many of the passengers 
 had inventions like the above to help the time to pass agreeably and 
 socially.
 
 SCENE IN JAPAN. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 JAPAN, HONG-KONG, CHINA, AND BORNEO. 
 
 |APAN has gone to the front of the Asiatic world. 
 India is enslaved ; China, with her long history 
 and teeming millions of population, stands on the 
 defensive, with an unheroic record. The ancient 
 lands of religion, poetry, and art are dead ; they are 
 an echo. Japan has caught the spirit of the West- 
 ern World. She has been studying all the arts of progress. She has 
 not been enslaved by England ; she has learned of her. The secret 
 of her sudden rise and progress is education. It is the same secret 
 as has, within half a century, made Mexico a grand and prosperous 
 empire. A like spirit would give power to the South American 
 republics. Chili already sees the way ; so does Argentine. Peru only 
 needs to awaken to this great need to recover her ancient glory. The
 
 HO ZIGZAG' JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 apostles of education in the twentieth century are to find their day 
 and field. 
 
 Japan proper comprehends four large islands, with an area of 
 two hundred and sixty-six thousand five hundred square miles. Be- 
 sides the four large islands, she has some three thousand islets. Her 
 population is between thirty and forty millions. 
 
 The islands seem to be of volcanic origin, and rest on an ocean 
 bed that is still disturbed. One city in about seven years is shaken 
 by volcanic movement, say the records. It is a land of mountains, 
 valleys, and magnificent harbours. The sacred mountain of Fusiyama 
 is fourteen thousand one hundred and seventy-seven feet high. 
 
 The climate is most beautiful. June, July, and August constitute 
 the rainy season ; and October and November are the pleasantest 
 months of the year. 
 
 It is the land of flowers and temples, of the evergreen oak, the 
 cypress, the maple, and of all luscious fruits. The palm and bamboo 
 shade the avenues to colossal temples. The Japanese are a nation of 
 farmers. 
 
 The Japanese character is such as rises. It is honest, clean, and 
 frugal, with a high sense of honour. 
 
 Among the curious customs of Japan which are disappearing, 
 is hara-kiri, or the committing of suicide by two cross-cuts on the 
 abdomen by a short-pointed knife. When a maiden marries, her teeth 
 are blackened, her eyebrows plucked out, and she makes herself as 
 ugly as possible. The Japanese are a theatre-loving people, and 
 delight in fantastic plays. 
 
 The Japanese emperors claim a dynasty of 2532 years. The chief 
 ruler is known as the Mikado, of which order there have been more 
 than one hundred and twenty-two in long and grand procession. The 
 office of the Mikado was to preserve the ancient laws and religion, 
 and to prevent change and progress. 
 
 Suddenly, some twenty-five years ago, this policy of the centuries

 
 JAPAN. 
 
 changed. How was it brought about? The families of rank sent 
 their sons to England, Germany, and France to be educated. These 
 young men saw a new life. 
 They returned with other 
 ideas. Then a Japanese Em- 
 bassy was sent out to study 
 the world. They came back 
 in favour of progress in Japan. 
 So change came. The arts 
 and sciences of the West were 
 cultivated, and education be- 
 gan to be a sudden and trans- 
 forming power. The ethics 
 of the Christian religion re- 
 ceived attention, and were 
 accepted among philosophical 
 Japanese as the principles of 
 Confucius had been when 
 these principles were seen to 
 be true, and superior to the 
 prevailing Buddhism. When 
 the law that had made change 
 forbidden, became broken in 
 spirit, and education took its 
 place, conservative Japan felt 
 a new force that became irre- 
 sistible. After less than a 
 half century of progress, she 
 leads the Levant. The old PORCELAIN TOWER. 
 
 law of Japan was, " Preserve 
 
 unchanged the condition of native intelligence." The new spirit is, 
 " Educate, progress ; assimilate all science, art, and knowledge." 
 
 8
 
 114 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 So one of the last of all nations became the first. 
 
 The grand temples of Japan are becoming devoid of the ancient 
 faith. Sintuism was the early creed. It was followed by Buddhism. 
 There was a long period of temple building, and the flowery land is 
 everywhere adorned by temples that have the poetic colourings of age 
 and decay. 
 
 There is a curious event in the history of Japan which connects her 
 rise in civilisation with American history. In the period of her isola- 
 tion, her ports were closed, and foreign sailors who were thrown upon 
 her coasts were treated as enemies. In 1853, Commodore Perry 
 steamed into the harbour of Yokohama with a demand for a treaty that 
 would protect American sailors. His squadron was a terror. The 
 treaty that he offered was accepted. It was the turning-point in the 
 history of Japan. Other nations followed Perry's example. The 
 ports were opened to the commercial nations. It was Perry's knock 
 at her doors that wrought the change. 
 
 Hong-Kong, the city of fragrant streams . This British island, on 
 the coast of China, lies about one hundred miles from Canton. It is 
 some nine miles long, and has an area of twenty-nine square miles. 
 Its capital. Victoria, has a population of 121,985. It is an island of 
 mountains. From May to October the heat is here oppressive, but 
 the winter months are cool. 
 
 Victoria has magnificent streets and terraces 
 
 O 
 
 The island was ceded to England by the treaty of Nankin, in 1843. 
 
 From Hong-Kong the traveller enters China; the island is the 
 commercial port to this vast empire of more than three hundred and 
 sixty millions of people. 
 
 The history of China is one of the oldest in the world ; and China, 
 in some respects, is the most remarkable country in the world. ' To 
 be happy on earth," say the Chinese, " one must be born in Su-Chau, 
 live in Canton, and die in Lianchan." Why die in Lianchan ? Be- 
 cause the place furnishes the best wood for coffins.
 
 COREANS.
 
 CHINA. 
 
 117 
 
 The Chinese worship their ancestors. Tombs are shrines. Death 
 is an ascension day ; the last home is the sky. The coffin is the most 
 sacred treasure. 
 
 The Chinese are slaves of custom. All things are regulated by the 
 " Book of Rites." China is a land of festivals. 
 
 The religion of China is Confucianism. The Buddhist system 
 came into China as a missionary religion, after a long struggle ; but 
 the educated classes are followers of Confucius. 
 
 The Buddhist temples are falling into decay in China, and no new 
 ones are building. Their devotees are chiefly begging priests and 
 susceptible women. The mystic religion called Taouism has great 
 influence in China ; it is a kind of spiritualism, and, instead of outward 
 forms, abounds in occult and mysterious rites. 
 
 Confucius, the Chinese philosopher, was born June 19, 551 B. c. 
 His disciples called him Kong-fu-tse, " the Teacher." Prodigies are 
 recorded as happening at his birth. The child had a large bump or 
 elevation on the top of his head, and began at an early age to exhibit 
 a wonderful zeal for learning. To acquire knowledge filled his soul 
 with joy. His character was noble, and he was made a public in- 
 spector of the flocks and herds. His mother died when he was a 
 young man, and he buried her with ancient honours, and began his 
 career as a philosopher by thus teaching reverence for the dead. 
 
 He made the hall of one's ancestors the sacred place of worship. 
 He mourned three years for his mother, during which he evolved his 
 system of philosophy. His teachings, in brief, were that men should 
 live for the soul, and that right character is everything. " Be vir- 
 tuous and reverence the dead." He went forth to teach what virtue 
 is. The principles of Confucius became the religion of China. He 
 founded schools, and firmly established his system. He suffered per- 
 secution and imprisonment ; for the purity of his principles antago- 
 nised prevailing customs. But he had sowed the seed of a great har- 
 vest. After his death he began to be honoured, and his name to receive
 
 Il8 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the highest epithets. The faith grew, for it was founded on the 
 moral laws of life; it came from the mysteries of Nature. It re- 
 vealed those principles that govern all things. 
 
 " I teach you nothing," he says, " but what you might learn your- 
 selves." These principles as applied to life are, 
 
 " Universal charity. 
 
 " Impartial justice. 
 
 " A pure heart and mind. 
 
 " Reverence. 
 
 " Sincerity." 
 
 Religion, in his system, is duty; and the principles of duty are 
 those that are written on the spiritual nature. To sum it up, " Impe- 
 rial Heaven will only assist virtue." " It is only good to be good." 
 
 The temples of China are magnificent in their ruins. Let us 
 describe, by pictures and travellers' accounts, two of these. 
 
 " Four miles south of Angcor the Great is the temple to which all 
 accounts refer as the most important of all the existing ruins. Of 
 this we present an illustration, reproduced from a photograph, for the 
 purpose of showing the exquisite finish and minute detail of the work. 
 The general plan of the temple consists of three rectangular and 
 concentric inclosures composed of galleries or verandas, and each 
 fifteen or twenty feet higher than the one outside it, giving to the 
 whole mass, as seen from without, a pyramidal form. The first of 
 these inclosures measures thirty-two hundred and forty feet by thirty- 
 three hundred, and outside of it is a moat six hundred and ninety feet 
 broad. This moat is crossed by a superb causeway of great blocks 
 of sandstone, and adorned with pillars and fantastic dragons at 
 regular intervals. In the first inclosure is a gateway not unlike the 
 gopura of a Dravidian temple, five stories high and extended by 
 lateral galleries and towers into a fa$ade more than six hundred 
 feet long. 
 
 " Passing through this portal, the road continues to the next in-
 
 
 BELFRY OF BUDDHIST TEMPLE.
 
 CHINA. I 2 I 
 
 closure, where it ends before a second terrace supported by round 
 columns elegantly sculptured. From the second to the third terrace 
 a great flight of steps leads up ; and the terrace itself is crowned by a 
 central tower, which, although the upper part has been destroyed, 
 stands yet about a hundred and ninety feet above the level of the road. 
 Besides this central tower, eight others rise from various portions of 
 the building, all conducing to the pyramidal effect, which seems to 
 have been the leading idea. 
 
 " All the three terraces are surrounded by galleries or colonnades, 
 which are open to the air with the exception of those of the second 
 story ; and nowhere in all the immense structure does there seem to 
 have been made any provision for human abode. The whole building 
 appears to have but one object or end in view, namely, to be the 
 entrance to the quadruple sanctuary established at the base of the 
 central tower. From whichever of the cardinal points the temple is 
 approached, everything leads towards one of the four enormous 
 statues over the four sides of this tower. Nothing arrests the explorer 
 till he finds himself at the entrance of the sanctuary. 
 
 " The central tower is two hundred feet long and two hundred and 
 thirteen wide. In it no divinity is found, for the reason that this 
 temple manifestly was dedicated to the snake- worship peculiar to some 
 branches of the Turanian family, and its gods suffered from the dis- 
 advantage of being eaten up one by another, or dying from natural 
 causes. But all through the enormous structure are the tokens of its 
 destination. ' Every angle of every roof,' says Fergusson, ' and there 
 are hundreds, is adorned with an image of the seven-headed snake ; 
 every cornice is composed of snakes' heads ; every convolution of the 
 roof and there are thousands of them terminates in a five or 
 seven headed reptile. The balustrades are snakes ; and the ridge of 
 every roof anciently was adorned with a gilt dragon.' There is, there- 
 fore, no divinity in the temple ; but at present it is occupied by Siamese 
 bonzes, who maintain the worship of Buddha, and take what care they
 
 122 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 can of the vast edifice. They are too few in number to do much ; but 
 they sweep out the most frequented central galleries every day, and 
 now and then pull up the grass which grows between the stones. The 
 rest is completely abandoned to the inroads of the luxuriant vegeta- 
 tion of the tropics, and to bats and night-birds, which make their 
 home by myriads under the roofs of the colonnades. 
 
 " A few words of description must be given to these galleries, which 
 are the most remarkable feature of Angcor Wat. Their mechanical 
 arrangement is as perfect as their artistic design. On the inner side 
 they are formed by a solid wall of the most exquisite masonry, sup- 
 porting the interior terrace of the temple. This wall is built of large 
 stones put together without cement, and so exquisitely fitted that it is 
 difficult to detect the joints between the stones. Ten feet and a half 
 in front of this wall stands a range of square piers, resembling the 
 Roman Doric order, with capitals similar to the classic examples, but 
 more ornamented. These pillars have no bases, but at the foot of 
 each is carved, on the four sides, a figure of a devotee or worshipper 
 surmounted by a canopy of incised ornament, which is also carried 
 along the edge of the shafts. The pillars support an architrave and a 
 deep frieze, which is ornamented with bas-reliefs of the most elaborate 
 design, and above this a cornice of a very classical outline. This cor- 
 nice is composed of infinite repetitions of the seven-headed snake. 
 The roof of these galleries is a pointed arch made by stones project- 
 ing one beyond the other, as the old Pelasgi used to build, and as do 
 the Indians of the present day. This was probably intended to be 
 hidden, as it is quite plain, and in one of the galleries remains of a 
 beautifully carved ceiling of teak-wood have been discovered. Upon 
 the inner walls are an almost infinite variety of bas-reliefs, represent- 
 ing, for the most part, battle-scenes. They are distributed in eight 
 compartments, having an aggregate length of about two thousand 
 feet, and a height of six and a half feet, the number of figures being 
 estimated by one traveller as twenty thousand, and by another as a
 
 CHINA. 125 
 
 hundred thousand. These figures, by their magnitude, their minute 
 finish, and their elegant proportion, compare favourably with classic 
 sculpture, and it is interesting to note that the principles on which 
 this sculpture is employed differ from the Indian and from the Egyp- 
 tian examples, where the figures were in high relief, forming part of 
 the architecture, but are allied to the Greek method, in which sculp- 
 ture was regarded as purely decorative, and to be used entirely within 
 the architectural lines. 
 
 "In examining this great temple minutely, the traveller is impressed 
 with the differences existing between its different parts. The two 
 lower stories or terraces seem designed to throw into strong relief the 
 importance and richness of the third. As we approach the central sanc- 
 tuary the decoration becomes more splendid ; the chisel cuts deeper 
 into the stone ; the colonnades are doubled ; marvels of sculpture burst 
 forth on every side. What admirable arabesques are designed upon 
 the pilasters which make the setting of the doors for the sanctuary ! On 
 the two sides the general design appears symmetrical ; but a nearer view 
 reveals the greatest differences, the most charming variety in the de- 
 tails ; curiosity and interest are redoubled. Each one of these graceful 
 interlacings, these capricious designs, appears the work of an individual 
 artist who, composing his own design, imitated nothing, borrowed 
 nothing, from his neighbour; each one of these pages of stone is the 
 feint of- a delicate and original inspiration, not the skilful reproduction 
 of a common model. Sometimes the commenced page is not com- 
 pleted ; the stone is left rough, awaiting the chisel. The artist died, 
 perhaps, in the midst of his work, and no one was found to take his 
 place. It seems as if this were a fate incident to all great structures. 
 Angcor Wat has fallen into ruins without ever having been finished ! 
 
 " Even more cruelly threatened by the forces of Nature is the 
 old city Angcor Thorn, or * the Great.' Making his way northward 
 through the forest, along an amazing highway, peopled with huge 
 stone figures, elephants the size of life, lions, dragons, most of
 
 126 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 them overthrown and broken, the traveller reaches the city's southern 
 gate. The forest, interrupted by the wide belt of moat which forms a 
 kind of clearing all around the city, here becomes deeper and more 
 gloomy. A narrow path winds between the great trees ; here and 
 there are massive stones all overgrown with moss. After a walk of 
 three-quarters of a mile, the explorer comes to a vast inclosure, within 
 which are visible, in the distance, the towers and spires of some great 
 structure. It is the Baion, or Temple of the Forty-two Towers, the 
 most beautiful and extensive of the ruins of Angcor. The view of 
 it on page 131 represents the building as it doubtless appeared in 
 its original splendour, surrounded by a broad moat and inclosing wall. 
 This moat has been entirely filled up. and, within the wall, the forest 
 debris of centuries almost bars access to the main structure. But 
 the forty-two towers are yet standing, with all their rich sculpture, 
 and it is possible to make a thorough examination of the building. 
 Its general plan is much like that of Angcor Wat, but it is believed 
 to belong to a somewhat earlier date." 
 
 The ship stopped at Borneo, next to Australia and Papua, the 
 largest island in the world. There came on board an English family, 
 who parted with a servant who had been taking the charge of 
 their children. This servant was a man, and was about to sail for 
 Vancouver. 
 
 " I am sorry to have you leave us," said the English gentleman, 
 whose name was Hunt. " I hardly know what we shall do without 
 you." 
 
 Harold overheard the remark. It occurred to him that he would 
 like to take the charge of such an interesting family of boys and girls, 
 and that he would apply to Mr. Hunt for this service as soon as 
 he could make his acquaintance. 
 
 The latter matter he found it easy to do. 
 
 " I should be glad to engage you for the daily instruction of my
 
 ANGCOR WAT
 
 BORNEO. 
 
 129 
 
 children," said Mr. Hunt. " We are going to Switzerland. We have 
 passes over our route. We can give or secure for you free passage 
 from Ceylon, to Venice, should you care to engage in our service. 
 We may, however, go to Bombay." 
 
 Harold here saw an opportunity to secure a very long and expen- 
 
 RIVER SCENERY, BORNEO. 
 
 sive journey free. He made the essential arrangements, and began 
 the daily instruction of the Hunt children. 
 
 These children had travelled into the interior of Borneo ; for Mr. 
 Hunt was a man of such strong family feelings that wherever he went, 
 he took his family with him. 
 
 There is but a small European population in Borneo. The chil- 
 dren had become greatly interested, while on the island, in the Dyaks, 
 
 9
 
 130 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 who were the original inhabitants. One of them, young Percy, said 
 to Harold : 
 
 " These people once hunted for the heads of their enemies. They 
 are the greatest hunters in the world." 
 
 A EUROPEAN RESIDENCE, BORNEO. 
 
 " How do they look ? " asked Harold. 
 
 " Oh, they wear hardly any clothes at all ; and yet they dress fine." 
 " How is that ? " asked Harold. 
 
 " They do not wear much ; but what they do wear, makes them 
 look just splendid royal." 
 
 Harold could hardly understand his pupil. 
 
 The pictures which we give will make the matter quite clear to
 
 BORNEO. 
 
 133 
 
 GROUP OF DYAKS. 
 
 the reader. A heathen Dyak presents a splendid figure, especially 
 a hunter or a warrior. 
 
 The boy had visited Sarawak, a kingdom in the northwest of 
 Borneo, with a population of some fifty thousand. The river Sarawak 
 is a forest highway. In these great forests ebony, sandal-wood, and 
 iron-wood abound. Here the finest camphor-trees are found, from 
 which, by incision, the camphor oil is obtained. This, when crystal- 
 lised, is regarded as the finest in the world. 
 
 The Dyaks collect edible bird's nests for the Indian market. The 
 original Dyaks were divided into many tribes. They live in simple 
 huts, and in a country abounding with luxuriant vegetation.
 
 134 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Here grow the nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, pepper, betel, ginger. 
 The trees and their fruits are for the most part odorous. 
 
 The monkeys of Borneo seem like a low order of the races of men. 
 The orang-outang is sometimes captured and tamed. Harold saw 
 
 LOWKR RAPID, SARAWAK RIVER. 
 
 one of these, on a ship in the harbour, which would climb into the 
 rigging and obey its owner like a boy. 
 
 The lagoons swarm with crocodiles ; and the birds here are as 
 brilliant as the forests are fragrant. 
 
 The butterflies here are as beautiful as the birds. 
 
 Terrible serpents are found in the forests ; and the English travel- 
 lers and explorers who go here for woods and spices, and ride over 
 the forest highways, often meet with thrilling adventures.
 
 HEAD-HUNTING DYAKS OF BORNEO-
 
 BORNEO. 
 
 137 
 
 Among the gigantic snakes of Borneo, the boa, or python, like 
 the same kind of reptile in the jungles of India and the forests of 
 South America, is terribly interesting. It is able to crush the large 
 animals, even the buffalo or tiger. The true boas are of a different 
 origin ; they belong to South America. These East India serpents 
 are the rock snakes, or, as they are sometimes called, the anacondas. 
 
 DYAK BRIDGE AND HUT. 
 
 It is pitiable to see the deer crushed by their coils. The rock 
 snakes of Natal are nearly as large round as the human body; and 
 there are pythons in the East twenty feet long. A tiger in the coils 
 of the monster of the forests of the lands and islands of the Indian 
 Ocean is one of the wonderfu" terrible scenes of reptile and animal 
 life.
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 DAHOMKY CRUELTIES. 
 
 Of all the primitive races of the East the Dyaks of Borneo are 
 perhaps the mo*t curious and interesting. They seem to be almost 
 allied to the Cave-dwellers. The missionaries have done much good 
 work in bringing about civilisation among the islands of the Indian 
 Ocean; and, in Ceylon, there may be sometimes seen in the same mis- 
 sion church many different races of men. The head-hunting Dyaks 
 displayed a cruelty equal to the fiercest animals. Like the chiefs of 
 Dahomey, who hung up their victims and exposed them to the birds, 
 cruelty of the lowest animal order here found place. The church is 
 seen to-day where once such exhibitions of human depravity were 
 common. The so-called wild men of Borneo belong to the races that 
 Christianity is sending to school, and that commerce, art, and science 
 are lifting out of the rule of the passions into the moral world.
 
 THE PET ORANG-OUTANG.
 
 CEYLON. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 CEYLON, THE TAJ, AND THE GREAT BO-TREE. 
 
 HERE are some ports that harbour, as it were, the 
 ships of the world. They are the world's cities of the 
 sea. To live in these places is to meet men of all 
 lands. Such a port is Liverpool ; such, Southamp- 
 ton ; such is Valparaiso ; and such is Ceylon, or 
 Colombo in Ceylon. 
 We speak of the island as a port. So it is ; but Colombo, a city 
 of some hundred thousand inhabitants, is the real port. The island 
 is about one-half the size of the State of New York. It is, histori- 
 cally, most interesting ; for it was the sea-garden of the Temples of 
 Buddha, and contains the ruins of some of the most magnificent and 
 colossal shrines in all the world's worship, in stone and marble. 
 
 It is the situation of the island that gives Ceylon its present im- 
 portance. It lies in the great ocean highway between the East and 
 the West. The splendid steamers from the Eastern ports of British 
 Columbia, Washington, and California call there. The English ships 
 for Australia there take the last mails. It is surrounded by rich trad-
 
 142 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ing countries, the lands of the sun, and its own productions are 
 valuable. It was once called the " Land of the Lions," and it is still a 
 land of the elephant. To the east lies continental India ; to the 
 west, Australia. 
 
 The kingdom floats, as it were, in the Indian Ocean, with great 
 mountain peaks that look like the chimneys of some vast temple, from 
 the sea. 
 
 It was a land of romance in the grand centuries of India's glory. 
 It is still a land of palms. 
 
 " What do you smell?" asked Henry, as the island rose, green, in 
 view out of the placid waters. 
 
 " Nothing," said his father, " nothing but the sea. Why do you 
 ask the question ? " 
 
 " I have heard so often the words of the hymn, 
 
 " ' What though the spicy breezes 
 Blow soft o'er Ceylon's isle,' 
 
 NATIVE COTTAGES IN CEYLON.
 
 ANACONDA AND TIGER.
 
 CEYLON. 
 
 145 
 
 that I can fancy that there is an odour in the wind blowing from the 
 shore." 
 
 " But, my boy, there is no wind blowing from the shore. The 
 water is like glass." 
 
 " Oh, is there not? I thought there was." 
 
 " It must be delightful to have an imagination like this, where 
 spicy breezes blow cool on so hot a day." 
 
 The wharves displayed a singular people, all in picturesque dress, 
 burghers, Moors, and Cingalese. The water was sprinkled with 
 canoes and shells. Among these were bumboats loaded with oranges, 
 bananas, cocoanuts, eggs, poultry, vegetables, and greens. 
 
 The boat laid the ladder ; and as our tourists landed, they seemed 
 to have come to a Babel, and to find the riches of the world spread 
 out before their feet. There were peddlers everywhere. Rubies, gar- 
 nets, sapphires, and pearls were mingled amid tempting fruits and 
 flowers. Does Ceylon produce everything beautiful ? 
 
 " There are spicy breezes here," said Henry. " You can smell 
 them now." 
 
 " Yes, my son ; it no longer needs the nose of the imagination to 
 enjoy them. Even I, with my faded fancy, am ready to testify that 
 the air of Ceylon is odorous, and that 
 
 " Every prospect pleases ; ' 
 
 I hope I may not find that 
 
 " ' Only man is vile.' " 
 
 Arrived at the hotel, what a scene the table d'hote presented. Peo- 
 ple of all commercial nations were there, speaking many tongues, 
 Americans, English, French, Germans, Dutchmen, Japanese, and 
 Chinese. 
 
 It rained every day while our travellers were here, as indeed it 
 rains here nearly every day during the three summer months. Some 
 of the night storms were terrible. But the sun came out of all clouds 
 
 10
 
 I 4 6 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 at last with dazzling splendour, and the earth poured forth what seemed 
 to be an inexhaustible vegetation. The climate here is not wholly 
 healthy in summer, but more so than on the main land. 
 
 Our travellers went out on the Galle road, through avenues of 
 cocoanut-palms, orchards, and gardens. Everywhere were life, beauty, 
 sunshine, or falling skies. Galle was once the important port of 
 
 MALAY MUD HUT. 
 
 Ceylon. There was no doubt in regard to the " spicy breezes " now. 
 Both Colombo and Galle are famous for their cinnamon gardens. 
 
 They went to Kundy, the old capital of Ceylon, to the palace and 
 shrine where are kept many marvellous relics. Among these is one 
 of the most sacred of all Boodhist, or Buddhist, treasures, the tooth 
 of the Great Buddha. 
 
 The temple or shrine where it is kept still burns with jewels, and 
 is surrounded by holy houses and adoring priests. But the country 
 once swarming with pilgrims is now like a vast coffee plantation. 
 
 One meets the solemn priests everywhere. Any one may become
 
 THE TAJ. 149 
 
 a member of the sacred class by taking the vow of celibacy, poverty, 
 and separation from the world. 
 
 Forlorn and forsaken they look, and as destitute of spiritual peace 
 and comfort as of worldly luxuries; but one cannot help respecting 
 the principle that leads them to so give up everything amid all of the 
 luxuries of life. 
 
 We speak of the enervating influences of the tropic lands, and 
 say that they weaken the will and character; but where may one 
 find more powerful examples of self-sacrifice and self-renunciation 
 amid all the temptations of life than here? In a land that produces 
 everything, multitudes are found who are ready to sacrifice everything 
 human to the imaginary welfare of the soul. Such sacrifice cannot 
 be altogether imaginary ; for it is blind virtue, and virtue is the 
 greatest of attainments, however or wherever it may be found. 
 
 " Galle in Ceylon," said Mr. Davidson, "is the Ophir of Solomon ; 
 there came the ships of Tarshish, bringing to the port of Jerusalem 
 gold, ivory, and peacocks." 
 
 As splendid as are the ruins of the Buddhist temples of Ceylon, they 
 are surpassed in interest by a mausoleum of comparatively recent date 
 at Agra, in India proper, and in dramatic splendour by the mosques of 
 the Mogul Empire. 
 
 For the ruins of India represent two great dynasties. First came 
 the Aryan races, of which are left the sacred hymns. Then arose 
 Gautama Booddha, or Buddha, the founder of Buddhism, about 500 
 B. c. The second period begins with the rise of the Mohammedan 
 power, under the conquerors from the North, ending in the Mogul 
 Empire, the most magnificent, perhaps, of the kingdoms in the his- 
 tory of the world. Mosques, mausoleums, minarets, palaces, arose in 
 a hundred centres of wealth and luxury. Gold seemed to be almost as 
 abundant as the stones of the streets. The temples blazed with gold, 
 and glimmered with gems. There were silver gates, jewelled urns, 
 and alabaster fountains.
 
 150 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The lives of the Mogul kings read like romances. Some of them 
 were not without nobility. 
 
 Take, for example, Paniput, whose death occurred in 1530. He 
 had a son named Humayun, whom he dearly loved. 
 
 The son fell sick. His life had become dearer to his father than 
 the father's own life. 
 
 " Allah ! " prayed the father, " let me die, and Humayun live. Take 
 thou my life instead of his, and I will be contented and happy." 
 
 The monarch seemed to be smitten from the time he made the 
 prayer, and the sick son to receive new life. The father withered and 
 perished, and the son became well and strong; the vitality of the 
 father seemed to pass into the son. 
 
 The last and most splendid of the Mogul emperors was Aurung- 
 zeeb, who came to the throne in 1658. His reign was, perhaps, the 
 most magnificent in material glory of any ever known in the world. 
 The temples that arose at this period are still the wonders of the 
 world. 
 
 It was in the last splendid years of the Mogul Empire that the 
 mausoleum of which we have spoken was brought into historic life. 
 It was called the Taj. It is still, and perhaps ever will be, the most 
 beautiful and poetic structure ever designed and erected by man. 
 
 It was erected by Shah Jehan as a mausoleum in memory of his 
 wife, who was his heart, and whose death took away from him the 
 glory of the world. 
 
 It was an inspiration, because it was built to typify the immortality 
 of Love. It appeals to mankind, because it pictures the nobleness of 
 human affection. 
 
 " I now wish to see the Taj," said Mr. Davidson ; " I want to go to 
 Agra. It would be a pity to make this long journey, and not see the 
 most beautiful building in all the world." 
 
 " But you cannot do this within the one thousand dollars I have 
 credited for the journey," said Henry.
 
 THE TAJ. 
 
 " No, but I can spare more. The temple of Candy is beautiful, 
 but it cannot equal those at Delhi and Agra. The great temples of 
 Ceylon of the days of the pilgrimages are buried in piles of vegetation, 
 I am told. My books all tell me that the splendours of India are in 
 the north, and, somehow, what I read of the Taj wins my heart and 
 kindles my imagination. Think of it, Henry, 
 
 " It took twenty thousand workmen seventeen years to lift all 
 those odeamins: marbles and gems into the air. 
 
 o o o 
 
 " All India and the East sent gems to it. It required one hundred 
 and forty thousand loads of stone and marble to set these gems. 
 There came jasper from Punjaub, 
 corals from Arabia, onyx from Per- 
 sia, diamonds from Punnah, agates 
 from Yeman, sapphires from Colombo, 
 and chalcedony from Asia Minor. I 
 am told that the view of it from Agra, 
 on a moonlight night, is enchantment. 
 It is a dream of the soul, the soul's 
 dreams of love and immortal life. 
 The story of it too haunts me. The 
 Shah died while it was building." 
 
 " We must see it," said Henry. 
 " To miss it would be to miss the jewel 
 on the hand of the world." 
 
 " How poetic ! " said Harold. " You 
 may go ; I will remain here, or go to Bombay, and study the people. 
 Slaves built the Taj. Their souls were more than the Taj." 
 
 " But slaves were ready to die for it," said Mr. Davidson. " Slaves 
 have a sense of beauty." 
 
 " You will have to remain over one boat if you go to the Taj," said 
 Harold. " You can go to the Taj from Bombay direct by rail. I will 
 wait for you there. Maybe I can find something to do there in one 
 of the government offices." 
 
 THE TAJ, FROM A DISTANCE.
 
 152 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 GARDEN-GATE OF THE TAJ. 
 
 The Taj stands upon a river bank, and is best seen across the river 
 from Agra. It there looks like a structure of air, a celestial 
 splendour, a dream of some Scheherazade. Its gilded crescent rises 
 to a height of two hundred and seventy feet above the water level. 
 The gleaming marbles and gems rise out of a green garden of some 
 twenty-five acres, having one of the most beautiful gates ever seen 
 by human eyes. The main building is of dazzling whiteness, shaded 
 with texts of the Koran in shining black marble. It is said that 
 the whole of the Koran is written on the walls of the Taj.
 
 THE GREA T BO- TREE. 1 5 3 
 
 The mausoleum stands on a vast platform of real stone. At each 
 end of this platform rises a minaret one hundred and fifty feet high. 
 
 " It was built by Titans, and finished by jewellers," said Bishop 
 Heber. " No pen," says a writer, " can do justice to its incomparable 
 beauty and astonishing grandeur." 
 
 It is said that the Shah intended to build his own tomb on the 
 opposite side of the river, and to connect the two mausoleums by a 
 bridge. The thought was poetry. The Taj itself was once only a dream 
 in the Shah's mind. No one could see it. His words could utter it. 
 
 He dreamed ; and the structure rose, bearing aloft the gems of 
 the world. 
 
 He dreamed again. As his wife slept among gems, so he would 
 sleep ; another Taj should enchant the air. He dreamed, but Death 
 came ; he sleeps beside his wife. The Taj is his tomb ; it is more : it 
 is his poem of life and immortality written in jewels, the poem of 
 the poems of the world. 
 
 Anaurajapoora is the capital of Ancient Ceylon. It is now a mass 
 of gigantic ruins, overgrown with luxuriant vegetation. Near its tem- 
 ples is a bo-tree, or fig-tree, or sacred fig-tree, which is supposed to be 
 more than two thousand years old, and the oldest tree in the world. 
 
 It is claimed that this tree is of the stock of the one under which 
 Buddha, or Booddha, received his Apotheosis, or celestial illumination ; 
 for the greatest of the Hindoo legends relates that the great Prophet 
 of the Inner Light, after long struggles to find the truth by self- 
 purification, knelt, or sat, down under a bo-tree, and there was spirit- 
 ually re-born, or deified. 
 
 Nearly all the Buddhist temples are approached by a bo-tree. 
 It represents the inward light, and is the sacred altar of prayer. 
 
 The bo-tree at the ancient capital of Ceylon has witnessed more 
 grand religious scenes than almost any other shrine in the world. 
 Here, long before the rise of Christianity, came processions of devotees,
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 A FOREST OF CEYLON. 
 
 and poured out their desires in 
 prayer. Stupendous temples 
 rose in air; golden rituals and 
 bejewelled priests, pilgrims and 
 merchants filled the courts of 
 these shrines of the Ophir of 
 the ships of Tarshish. The 
 procession went in for a thou- 
 sand years, and then for another 
 thousand, and the end seems 
 near, but it is not yet. 
 
 What were these desires that 
 were poured out under the 
 sacred bo-tree? Strangely 
 enough they were petitions to 
 the Soul of all Souls that all 
 desires might be taken away. 
 He that desires nothing has 
 everything, is the great tendency 
 of Buddhism. Desire is pain ; 
 birth is pain life, growth, con- 
 sciousness. The only happiness 
 is the joy of the soul in over- 
 coming selfishness, passion, and 
 pride. The Christian Gospel 
 teaches that attainment is the 
 highest joy; but Buddha, that 
 the glory of the soul is the ex- 
 tinction of individuality, to 
 be swallowed up and lost in the 
 all-glorious life. 
 
 The soul, according to the
 
 ALLADIX'S GATE, DELHI.
 
 THE GREAT BO-TREE. 
 
 157 
 
 Hindoo thought, rewards itself and punishes itself by its own conduct ; 
 the soul passes from one state of existence to another, and suffers in 
 one existence for the sins in a previous existence, or enjoys in one state 
 the fruits of well-doing in a past age. So the soul rises and falls, 
 and is re-born to pain as long as it 
 cherishes desires. When it rises 
 above worldly desires, it approaches 
 the celestial glory of Nirvana. 
 
 The soul in the Christian thought 
 attains all knowledge ; it shall know 
 all created life. 
 
 "The stars are but the shining dust 
 Of my divine abode." 
 
 But the Buddhist teaching is 
 that the loss of self is happiness 
 supreme, to join the eternal and 
 to become a part of eternal life. 
 
 Not to seek a home, but to 
 wander homeless ; not to care for 
 self, but only for others; not to kill 
 anything, but to protect all life as 
 sacred ; not to seek for joys without, 
 but the peace of inward contempla- 
 tion, such in its best sense is the 
 purpose of the true and devout 
 Buddhist. 
 
 PUBLIC BATHS.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE MOST BEAUTIFUL TEMPLES IN THE WORLD. 
 
 EAR Agra is Gwalior, where the dead wall of the 
 ruined palace of the King of Pal, and the temples 
 of a very ancient city, surprise and awe the traveller 
 by their colossal art and magnificence. 
 
 From Agra the two went by rail to Delhi. This 
 was formerly the capital of the Mogul Empire, and 
 had a population of two million. The city is seven miles in circum- 
 ference, and is surrounded by a wall thirty feet high, with seven arched 
 gates. The palace of Shah Jehan is the pride of India. The city 
 now has a population of about one hundred and sixty thousand. It 
 has some forty mosques. 
 
 Returning to Agra by rail, they started for Bombay. They passed 
 the mausoleum of the great emperor, Akbar, on one of their journeys 
 from Agra, and visited other ruins of palaces and temples that so 
 excited their wonder as to make them wish to go to Benares, and to 
 see more of the marvellous works that art had wrought in stone, such 
 as they were leaving behind. These stupendous temples were struc- 
 tures of superstitions, but they represented ideas. Some of these ideas 
 were false, but some of them were noble and true. Christianity tells 
 us to destroy evil passions and develop good desires. Hindooism com- 
 mands that all passions and desires shall be repressed and surrendered. 
 Of course Christianity is right; but the sacrifice of things that please 
 for the sake of principle has its worthy suggestions. " Attain," says 
 the Christian faith ; " Lose thyself," says Buddhism. The Christian
 
 FAC.ADE OF THE PALACE, GWALIOR.
 
 THE MOST BEAUTIFUL TEMPLES IN THE WORLD. 
 
 161 
 
 faith is right; it is winning the world. But the Buddhist view is 
 interesting. 
 
 "In one thing Buddhism is right," said Henry; "in protecting all 
 life and holding it as sacred. We shall see this at Benares." 
 
 PALACE OF SHAH JEHAN. 
 
 " How about the tigers, serpents, who destroy as many people as 
 would make a colony here every year ? " asked his father. 
 
 " I do not know ; but the Buddhist principle in this regard is a 
 correct one." 
 
 " Christianity has the same." 
 
 " But it does not hold to it. Here it is an education." 
 
 Benares ! There indeed they found the old " bird's-nest " principle 
 of the Hebrews not only in action, but exceeded. Apes and serpents 
 
 were held to be sacred there. 
 
 ii
 
 l62 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 THE MAUSOLEUM OF AKBAR. 
 
 Harold found at Bombay many tales of India written by old 
 explorers. These he kept to read on shipboard to his father and 
 Henry. Some of these stories gave a vivid view of the country. The 
 most interesting story of this kind that fell under his notice, was 
 written by Captain Parsley, R. A., many years ago, in the time of 
 curious and romantic exploration. It was called,
 
 PAGODA, BOMBAY.
 
 THE MAN-EATER OF CHUNDA. 
 
 165 
 
 THE MAN-EATER OF CHUNDA. 
 
 ONE very sultry day in the month of May, 1850, I was sitting in my tent, 
 on the banks of a tributary of the Nerbudda, India. Near by was a small vil- 
 lage of huts called Chunda. My duties as a civilian in the revenue service 
 enabled me to divide my work with pleasure, and I frequently passed the 
 afternoon in hunting. 
 
 At the time referred to I was in the tiger country. It was at the hot sea- 
 son. The forest around me was bare of leaves, for at the commencement of 
 the Indian summer the leaves fall as in an American autumn, and, with the 
 exception of a few coriander bushes and evergreens, the jungle was but a collec- 
 tion of dried up trunks of trees. Under any other conditions it would have 
 been impossible to get at tigers and large game without great danger. 
 
 While I was stopping here, I heard that a man-eating tiger had carried 
 terror into the village. He had killed some half-dozen persons during the 
 year. 
 
 One day a bareheaded native rushed into my tent, and throwing himself 
 at my feet, informed me, in lamentable terms, that his bachcJia (child) had just 
 
 ROCK-HEWN TEMPLES.
 
 1 66 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 been -carried off by the terrible man-eater, and begged me, out of pity, to go 
 in search of the beast. 
 
 My native servants came in just at that moment, and soon led the man out. 
 When they returned, I found that his bachcha was not his child, but his pet 
 buffalo, whose neck had been twisted and sucked by the tiger. 
 
 It may be well to explain that by a " man-eater " I do not mean a par- 
 ticular kind of tiger, but an old one which has, through some chance, killed 
 man, and, finding him easy eating for bad teeth, repeats the dose, taking " one 
 at a time " as often as he can. 
 
 Sometimes the man-eater is young, having come across a man without 
 hunting for him, and killed him, and found him good to his taste. Any animal 
 but a man can scent a tiger some way off; and many an old tiger would prob- 
 ably die of hunger were it not for the easy manner in which men can be caught 
 when wood-cutting, and during other forest avocations. Old man-eaters may 
 often be known by the absence of their stripes. 
 
 When the complaining native left my tent, it was only an hour before dark, 
 but it was a cloudless sky and the moon had already risen, so I concluded to 
 try to avenge the wrongs suffered by the native. 
 
 I lost no time in starting with my shikaree (game-keeper) for the scene of 
 action, as my guns were always ready. When I reached the place where the 
 buffalo was killed, I found it lying dead with no further damage than a dislo- 
 cated neck and two deep wounds in its throat, from which the tiger had taken 
 a hearty drink, and then departed. 
 
 Knowing it would be useless to seek for my enemy, as it was so late, I 
 selected a tree close by, and with my shikaree's aid made a branch pretty com- 
 fortable to sit upon, and settled myself, ammunition, weapons and shikaree, 
 biding the return- of the tiger, as it is his custom to feed off the carcass shortly 
 after sunset. 
 
 I prepared my guns for moonlight shooting by sticking a piece of white 
 paper to each of the muzzle sights by means of a piece of cobbler's wax, which 
 I always had for such purposes. This is a necessary plan, as the glitter of the 
 moonbeam on the barrel renders an aim very deceptive. 
 
 It was soon dark, and the red disc of the moon loomed large in the haze 
 of the horizon, the lowing of the cattle returning home gradually died away, 
 and all was still, save for the occasional cry of a hyena or jackal, and the bark- 
 ing of the pariah dogs in the distant village. 
 
 Anxiously and patiently I waited for two or three hours, and the moon 
 shone more brightly, when my shikaree, who had the eyes of a lynx, touched 
 my arm.
 
 THE MAN-EATER OF CHUNDA. 169 
 
 I was too old a sportsman to move, but, looking steadfastly, saw something 
 creep between two small bushes, and presently could clearly distinguish a tiger's 
 head. My suspense was increased by its withdrawing. 
 
 Again I waited in silence ; and my patience was rewarded by seeing the 
 animal walk out into the open space by the dead buffalo, and proceed to the 
 body. I was so interested in watching him that I did not fire at once, and I 
 was to a certain extent interested and satisfied by noticing the manner in 
 which he acted. 
 
 First, he sucked at the throat and seemed to lick his chops ; then he famil- 
 iarly put his paw on the carcass, as much as to notify that possession was nine 
 points of the law ; and he certainly looked a very dangerous customer to quarrel 
 with concerning his property. 
 
 When thoroughly satisfied that he \vas alone with his prey, he began to 
 tear it with his teeth and claws. These latter weapons are far more effective 
 than is generally known ; and without their aid the feline race would have hard 
 work in preparing their food. A few strokes of a tiger's claws will tear out the 
 entrails of a cow or buffalo ; and the belly is, I think, the first part that the 
 animal would attack after drinking the blood from the throat. 
 
 I was on the point of firing, when, to my intense disgust, the tiger uttered 
 a growl and sprang away. Two pariah dogs had approached, attracted by the 
 smell of the dead body, and the tiger made a rush after them, and I bitterly 
 regretted having spared him while I had the chance of killing him with ease ; 
 but my shikaree whispered to me, 
 
 "Never fear, sahib, the janwar [animal] will come back; he has not 
 gorged yet." 
 
 No one who has not been perched on a tree for a night can comprehend 
 the utter discomfort of sitting astride a branch and not daring to move. Al- 
 though I had settled myself to the best advantage, I was in great pain from 
 being unable to stir ; and my attendant did not relieve me by whispering, as 
 he did, 
 
 " Sahib, yth bahut atcha jhar hai ; sarhe rat idhur baithenge " (Sir, this is 
 a very good tree; we can sit all night in it). Whether I should sit all night 
 or not was soon decided. The tiger, having put the dogs to flight, returned to 
 the carcass ; and, before he had time to eat a mouthful, I fired right and left 
 from my rifle, and had the great satisfaction of seeing the mighty brute spring 
 high in the air and roll over. Before I could fire again, he had recovered his 
 feet, and rushed off uttering the most terrific roars. 
 
 I told my shikaree I would start at daybreak, in further pursuit, and 
 desired him to get the assistance of a good puggee, or a man who can track
 
 170 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 animals by their footprints. In Guzerat, the puggees are so expert that they 
 can tell the track of a tiger over hard, clean, black rock, where a European 
 could discover no sign ; and their expertness was formerly and, for all I 
 know, may be at the present day turned to good account. 
 
 It is more by signs caused by the passage of an animal than by his foot- 
 prints that they discover it; and if they lose the track of the spoor they follow 
 such slight indications as a twig turned aside, or dew brushed off. I knew a 
 man to pick up a track he had nearly given up by finding a single hair on the 
 side of a stone; before picking it up he blew on it, and it easily fell off; on my 
 asking him why he did so, he said, - 
 
 " Sahib, if any wind had blown on this hair it would have gone ; it blew 
 hard last night; the tiger has just gone by." 
 
 To continue my own story, I went to bed and slept soundly. At daylight 
 I was again equipped for the day's sport; and on the spot where I had spent the 
 earlier part of the previous night, my pn-ggee at once took up the track, and we 
 proceeded inch by inch to thread the jungle, keeping all our wits at work so as 
 not to be surprised. 
 
 The blood of the wounded tiger was plain on the track. In his footmark, 
 also, the marks of the claws were plainly to be distinguished for at least twenty 
 or thirty yards. This was an infallible sign of the brute being hit, as on no 
 other occasion do the talons project in walking; but, in their rage and fear 
 combined, tigers seem to try and wreak their vengeance on everything within 
 reach. I knew a tiger to fly at the trunk of a tree when he was wounded, and 
 leave deep marks of his fangs and claws thereon. 
 
 Breathless with anxiety, we followed the tracks into the bed of the river, and 
 found that the animal had gone to drink. This was a good sign, as it showed 
 that he was forced, by the pain of his wounds, to go for water close to the 
 scene of his disaster. 
 
 We now went along the bank on the same side, thinking he had not 
 crossed over, and we looked under every green bush, and into every place we 
 could fancy, but in vain. I saw also a peacock and hen, which were not 
 apparently alarmed. Now, these creatures are very keen and sensible of the 
 presence of wild animals, and always notify the fact by a series of cries, 
 " Cuck, cuck," repeated rapidly and shrilly. This cry is used by them when 
 disturbed by ferocious animals, and is never heard on any other occasion. 
 Presently I found that they were not so stupid as I fancied, for the very two 
 I saw gave the warning cry, " Cuck cuck, cuck cuck," and flew up and across 
 the river. 
 
 My shikaree started, and, pulling my elbow, declared he could see the ani-
 
 THE MAN-EATER OF CHUN DA. 
 
 171 
 
 mal across the river, and pointed to what I thought was a stone; but he 
 declared it was part of the animal, and that he was lying down. I took steady 
 aim, against my better judgment, and fired ; the ball went true to the mark 
 and flattened on a stone, and not a tiger. At the report the real Simon Pure 
 
 ORIZABA. 
 
 gave a roar within twenty yards of us in the grass behind us, on the side of 
 the river, but did not come out. 
 
 Matters were now getting serious. It would be folly to walk into the dense 
 reeds from which the roar came, and all that we could do was to go round 
 and round it, and try if we could induce the animal to come out. I stood 
 ready, while the puggee threw stones in, one of which was saluted by another 
 fierce growl. 
 
 Of course we could not tell now that the tiger was badly wounded. It was 
 difficult to get any vantage ground, as the bed of the river was on a lower 
 level than the reeds of the jungle, and we could not see a yard ahead if we 
 entered the place where the tiger was concealed. 
 
 At length I determined to risk one chance of getting the man-eater out of
 
 172 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 his concealment, and I fired my carbine with the nearest aim I could take 
 to where I fancied the tiger \vas, and instantly seized my rifle. 
 
 The balls had the effect of dislodging the brute, for almost before I could 
 change my weapons, he made a feeble attempt at a charge, and came straight 
 out of the jungle into the bed of the river. Here he was taken so faint from 
 his wounds that he halted, and sat up like a dog in the bed of the river, and, 
 before he had time to lie down, I put two more bullets into him, and he 
 rolled over with a low roar and died. His charge was a last expiring effort. 
 
 From Ceylon, our travellers went to Port Sai'd, and thence to Jaffa, 
 or Yaffa.
 
 SYNAGOGUE OF JERUSALEM. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 TO THE MOUNT OF THE BEATITUDES. VENICE TO THURINGIA. 
 
 HATEVER may be said as to the sacred places in 
 China and India, and of the interest awakened by 
 them in thoughts and visions that have influenced 
 some of the most numerous races of mankind, the 
 supreme teaching of the world took place in the 
 Mount of Beatitudes. Christ taught not only the 
 moral, but the spiritual meaning, of life, and all things lie under that 
 which is most spiritual. " He that is spiritual judgeth all things." 
 The so-called Sermon on the Mount has for its conclusion, " Seek ye 
 first the kingdom of God and his righteousness." Froebel, hearing 
 this .text at school, was inspired to form his system of education, which 
 stands for soul-culture in child-life. " First," the word haunted him, 
 what should be the first things to learn? What should be the first 
 lesson in life ? Was it not how to be governed by the highest and 
 noblest qualities of the soul ?
 
 174 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Our travellers planned to visit the " Galilee of the Gentiles " by 
 the way of Jaffa and Jerusalem. A railroad runs from Jaffa to the 
 
 JAFFA. 
 
 Holy City. At Jaffa, they visited the supposed house of Simon the 
 Tanner, saw some beautiful orange-trees on the country side, and were 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 almost shocked, at the end of their railroad journey, to hear the con- 
 ductor, or some one connected with the train, say, " Jerusalem ! "
 
 TO THE MOUNT OF THE BEATITUDES. 
 
 175 
 
 They found themselves in a dead city, filled with the dust of the 
 ages. They visited those holy places which are associated with the 
 
 CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 
 
 great mysteries of the spiritual life and redemption, Gethsemane, 
 Calvary, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. We have given a his- 
 toric view of these places in another book. 
 
 JACOB'S WELL.
 
 176 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 They started northward towards Galilee, by the way of Shiloah, 
 Jacob's Well, and the Tomb of Joseph. They passed through Sa- 
 
 SA MARIA. 
 
 maria, where the Parable of the Good Samaritan was much in their 
 thoughts, and where the true interpretation of it came upon them. 
 
 MOUNT HERMON.
 
 TO THE MOUNT OF 7 HE BEATITUDES. 
 
 177 
 
 All trouble in regard to routes and living was relieved by their guides 
 and conductors, who take parties from Jerusalem to Damascus, and 
 
 NAZARETH. 
 
 the Northern ports, as a part of the systems of travel in the East 
 inaugurated by the great English tourist agencies. One places him- 
 
 CAXA FROM THE EAST. 
 12
 
 7 8 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 self under such guidance, and has no farther care than to ride a horse. 
 One sleeps in tents at night, in a glorious atmosphere, and his food 
 and bed are there provided for him. They came to Nain, in view of 
 Mount Carmel and Mount Hermon, and dreamed of the widow's son. 
 In four days, they reached Nazareth, and rested in the ancient town 
 of the Holy Family, and were shown the traditional site of the house 
 of Joseph the Carpenter. 
 
 Thence, travelling among the Galilean Hills, they came to Cana. 
 Before them rose the Horns of Hattin, or the Mount of Beatitudes. 
 
 TIBERIAS. 
 
 It was a clear, bright, purple morning, as they went up to the 
 Mount of Blessings. Below them lay Tiberias on the shore, and the 
 Sea of Tiberias, or of Galilee. They were taken to the traditional 
 place of the Sermon on the Mount, and were told that there was the 
 pulpit of the world. 
 
 If the site were indeed the place of the teaching which is called 
 the Sermon on the Mount, it was indeed the pulpit of the world. 
 The Mount stands like a church with towers amid the Galilean Hills.
 
 TO THE MOUNT OF THE BEATITUDES. 
 
 179 
 
 Our travellers imagined the scene of the old time, pictured in a single 
 sentence, " And, seeing the multitudes, He went up into a mountain," 
 and could almost hear the divine words, 
 
 " Blessed are the poor in spirit ; 
 
 " Blessed are the meek ; 
 
 " Blessed are the pure in heart; 
 
 " Blessed are they which do hunger and thirst after righteousness." 
 
 In all these Beatitudes there was hope for the struggling, the 
 toiling, the neglected and misinterpreted souls of this imperfect world. 
 
 SEA OF GALILEE. 
 
 The horizons of hope lifted in them all. The principles were simple, 
 but they summed up all wisdom, and their end was final truth. First, 
 let that which is spiritual govern life, and to this purpose let all things 
 else be secondary, and "all other things shall be added unto you.' ; 
 Spiritual obedience is the law of supply. 
 
 The sun burned in the clear sky ; the birds sang, and the flowers 
 bloomed, and the sea lay below in unruffled silence. A few boats 
 were on the shore. The hills and valleys seemed asleep in the sun. 
 
 He who has seen the Mount of Blessings has met the height 
 that will ever tower above mankind ; not that the elevation itself is
 
 l8o ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 imposing, but because the teaching here cannot be transcended in all 
 the ages to come. 
 
 " I have seen the supreme place in the world," said Mr. Davidson, 
 " in Calvary, if the site that we saw were the true one ; and here I 
 stand on the floor of Nature's temple, that will ever rise superior to 
 
 GETHSEMANE. 
 
 all other churches and schools, and that will ever be most sacred 
 to the heart of man." 
 
 He added thoughtfully, "The world has only begun to compre- 
 hend these teachings. Think of them : ' If thou rememberest that 
 thy brother has aught against thee,' not ' if thou hast aught against 
 thy brother.' Think of it, ' But I say unto you that ye resist not evil.' 
 Think of it! all of the morals of the world, in one line! ' Whatso- 
 ever ye would that men should do to you, do ye,' how simple ! how 
 lofty! 'do ye even so to them.' And, first, seek righteousness: 
 
 "All schools of thought, all human teaching, must begin and end 
 here. I would rather stand on this spot, than in any hall on earth. 
 Confucius, Buddha, Plato, art, letters, science, are all transcended 
 here! Let us sing together, ' Memories of Galilee.' It is an Ameri- 
 can song ! "
 
 MOORISH WOMAN.
 
 VENICE TO THURINGIA. 183 
 
 Our travellers made a short journey to Akka, where they waited 
 a ship for the Eastern ports. They had talked over what they 
 had seen. 
 
 " The day on the Horns of Hattin is the one event of all our 
 journey," said Mr. Davidson. 
 
 " What place would you next most wish to see ? " asked his sons. 
 
 " Zurich," he said ; " for that city is associated with the lives of two 
 men whose teachings of methods is, in my view, best fitted to carry 
 out the principles of the Sermon on the Mount ; I mean Pestalozzi 
 and Froebel. Zurich has been the starting point of many great 
 events of history ; but in its schoolmasters, it is one of the home cities 
 of all the world. Pestalozzi was born there ; Froebel lived there ; 
 and there is the place from which to visit Thuringia and other places 
 of Switzerland and Germany associated with their works. Their 
 system of education is simply the putting, into common life the 
 teachings of the Mount of the Beatitudes." 
 
 Our travellers next went to Alexandria, and thence to Cairo. We 
 have described the land of the Pyramids in another volume. They 
 returned to Alexandria for Venice. They next went to Zurich. 
 
 The Canton of Zurich has a population of less than three hundred 
 thousand. The Lake of Zurich penetrates the lofty hills for a 
 distance of some twenty-six miles. Zurich the city, the capital of 
 the canton, is one of the most prosperous places in Switzerland. 
 
 The canton and its capital are almost ideal democracies. The 
 mechanics are among the best educated working-people of Europe. 
 The idea of religious freedom may be said to have had its beginning 
 here in Zwingli, who was among the first to declare that a man's 
 conscience should be left free. The great discourse that places 
 Zwingli among the progressive thinkers of the world was delivered 
 in the Cathedral of Zurich, on January i, 1519. 
 
 Democratic ideas found their earliest development in the world's
 
 1 84 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ZURICH. 
 
 history, in practical and progressive form, at Zurich. The principles 
 of universal education as the right of the people, and true protection 
 of the state, were here first developed. Here lived for a part of his 
 life Pestalozzi, who taught that all people should be educated, and 
 that the purpose of education should be character. Froebel was 
 his pupil-disciple, and evolved his principles in the system of primary 
 education known as Kindergarten. Froebel lived in Thuringia, and 
 began his system at Marienthal. This part of Switzerland and 
 Germany was the early home of those ideas and principles that have 
 found so large an expression in the Western world. American 
 republics, and especially that of the United States, are Zurich ex- 
 panded. But America has widely departed from the educational 
 principles of these great founders of a true system. To teach a man
 
 BRAZILIAN INDIANS.
 
 VENICE TO THURINGIA. 
 
 I8 7 
 
 how to profit by others' losses, and to rise by others' falls, or to enrich 
 himself any way by a cunning brain at the expense of others, was 
 no part of the educational purpose of Pestalozzi. 
 
 The canton abounds with anecdotes of these great educators, 
 and is itself an example of what true education may accomplish. 
 
 THE WAD, ZURICH. 
 
 In these mountain regions of Switzerland, the torch of Liberty was 
 lighted, and given to Education to guard and to carry forward to the 
 world. Virtue, liberty, education, and progress have here found 
 congenial soil. Whatever the imagination can conceive, or the soul 
 desire, that may be accomplished, has been the spirit and teaching 
 of these mountain-walled valleys ; and the humble disciples of this 
 thought have wrought wonders in the world. Think, for example, 
 of simple-minded Froebel, and the influence of his thought and 
 methods in the single republic of Brazil ! 
 
 The old German school-masters were a story-loving people ; 
 stories were with them the parables of life. In a former volume, 
 we gave the story, with a curious illustration, of the " Grinding over 
 Young." In this story, old men came to a wonderful mill, and took
 
 1 88 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 some magic medicine, and descended into a funnel, and were ground 
 over, and came out of the hopper young men, where maidens awaited 
 them to wed them, and to lead them into a new and a happier life. 
 
 The German story is more curious. It runs thus, or somewhat 
 after this manner: 
 
 THE MAGIC MILL. 
 
 THERE were wonderful things in the forest of Thuringia: Fairy circles; 
 people who were helped by good angels; people who could bring good 
 luck. 
 
 One day, many, many centuries ago, an old woman, wandering about for 
 sticks, discovered a very curious mill on one of the streams. 
 
 She went to the miller. 
 
 " O miller, miller, what is the meaning of this mill ? There is nothing 
 here to grind." 
 
 " Good woman, good woman, I grind over old women young." 
 
 " O miller, miller, do you tell me that ? " 
 
 " Yes, yes, good woman. When I grind the birds all sing. You can hear 
 them now." 
 
 " Yes ; I hear the birds all singing. Does it not hurt an old woman like 
 me to be ground over young?" 
 
 " No ; the good woman, having signed the paper of good character, goes 
 up the steps to the funnel, drops her crutch, and falls in. Then the fairy of the 
 forest comes, and turns the crank, and the wheels go round and round ; and 
 every time they go round they take off a year. She goes in at seventy 
 years of age, and comes out at twenty, all rosy and blooming." 
 
 " But some old women that I have met would not wish to be young again. 
 What comes of the years that are gone?" 
 
 " Chaff." 
 
 " And what comes of all the things one has done? " 
 
 " Chaff." 
 
 "And friends one has known?" 
 
 "Chaff." 
 
 "And love?" 
 
 " Air." 
 
 "And lost ones?" 
 
 " Ashes."
 
 WARRIORS OF THE AMAZON.
 
 THE MAGIC MILL. 
 
 IQI 
 
 " And what one has earned? " 
 
 " One earns nothing that can repay the loss of youth." 
 
 "Miller, miller, you are right; I would be young again. The brier 
 bloomed when I was young. The stars hung low." 
 
 " Yes ; the world is all new when one is young." 
 
 " My bones did not ache then." 
 
 " No, my good woman ; and your heart did not ache then." 
 
 " And I ate, and my food was good." 
 
 " And you slept, and your sleep was good." 
 
 " O miller, miller, I am glad that I have found the mill ! I will go away 
 and tell all the old women about it; but I will come back again." 
 
 "When?" 
 
 " Soon what is the toll? " 
 
 " You must sign a paper." 
 
 " I do not sign away my soul, do I? " 
 
 " No, no ; the mill is no evil enchantment. It is a good paper that you 
 must sign. It merely shows that you are worthy to be ground over young. 
 It is only good wheat that makes good meal. We only grind good meal at 
 this mill. When we grind, the flowers bloom, and the birds sing, the moon 
 laughs, and Nature has a holiday." 
 
 " I will publish the news everywhere ; and, my good miller, you may be 
 sure that I will come back again, and I will bring a great company of old 
 women with me. The birds will sing ; the flowers bloom ; the moon laugh ; 
 and Nature will have a holiday." 
 
 The old woman travelled through Thuringia, and as often as she met 
 another old woman she said, 
 
 " Let me tell you the strangest thing in all the world ! I Ve found a mill 
 in the forest, where old people are ground over young. Come with me and be 
 ground. The birds will sing ; the flowers will bloom ; the moon will laugh ; 
 and Nature will have a holiday." 
 
 She induced a great company of old women to follow her. Some were 
 partly blind ; some were crooked ; some were lame, but all were filled with 
 delight that they would be ground over young again. 
 
 The great company of old women came at last to the mill. 
 
 " O miller, miller," said the first old lady, " I have returned, and brought 
 all these with me. Turn, turn thy mill ! We have all come to be ground." 
 
 And the miller said : " O birds, sing ; O flowers, bloom ; O moon, laugh ; 
 O Nature, prepare for a holiday ! "
 
 192 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The mill began to turn, the birds to sing, and the flowers to bloom. 
 
 " You must first sign this paper," said the miller, to the company. 
 
 " Why ? " asked they all. 
 . " So as to make good meal." 
 
 "Read the paper," said the first old woman. 
 
 So the miller read the paper. 
 
 It said : " I promise to confess on the steps of the mill the three things in my 
 heart that I have been concealing from the world." 
 
 " No," said the first old woman. 
 
 " No," said the second old woman. 
 
 " No," said the third old woman. 
 
 " No," said they all. 
 
 " Then you cannot be ground," said the miller. " That which one conceals 
 ought not to have been ; it makes bad meal. This is a fairy mill, and we only 
 make good meal here. The grain must be winnowed. Confession is the win- 
 nowing." 
 
 " I do not want to be winnowed," said the first old woman. " I would die 
 first." 
 
 " I do not want to be winnowed," said the second old woman. 
 
 " Nor I," said the third. 
 
 So said they all. 
 
 "Then go home," said the miller, sorrowfully. "We do not grind chaff 
 here ; and there are enough mean people in the world now." 
 
 The old women departed, shaking their heads. 
 
 " The birds may sing, the flowers bloom, the moon laugh, and Nature have 
 a holiday, or not," said the first old woman ; " but I never will tell quite all 
 I know. I must go on to the end, chaff and all." 
 
 They all died, chaff and all. And as often as the bell tolled for these un- 
 happy old women, the birds sang, the flowers bloomed, the moon laughed, and 
 Nature took a holiday. 
 
 The mill is there still, and the miller has not much to do.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 WALHALLA (REGENSBURG). THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 HE Walhalla, or Valhalla, of myth was the heaven 
 of heroes, the Hall of the Fallen, the immortal 
 abode of the heroic and brave. According to the 
 ancient German songs, the Valkyrias, or battle 
 maidens, deliver the death lots of the heroes. These 
 shield-maidens are beautiful young women who, 
 glittering with gold and shining armour, ride through the air, and 
 obey the commands of Odin. They come in an advent of bright 
 light ; their lances are radiant. They delight in the death of those 
 who fall in honour, and lead the fallen in triumph to Walhalla, where 
 they act as cup-bearers. 
 
 The Hall of Walhalla, or of the Worthies, was a part of the House 
 of Joy, in front of which rose a golden grove. The hall was so high 
 that the top of it could not be seen ; it had five hundred and forty 
 doors, through which eight hundred inmates could pass abreast. Here 
 came the fallen heroes to Odin. The heroes of the past rose up to 
 meet them. 
 
 As kings were heaven-appointed, they all came to Walhalla, 
 whether they died in battle or not. 
 
 Odin, the high god, lived on wine, and gave common food to the 
 wolves. The shades of the heroes fought a battle every morning ; 
 many of them were wounded, but their wounds healed at noon. As 
 the Persian Paradise is associated with life among beautiful women, 
 
 13
 
 194 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 A STREET IN RATISBON. 
 
 and is a low conception of the soul, so this heaven is a place of war, 
 and is a barbarous view of a future life. 
 
 But Walhalla stood for bravery and honour. This view of German 
 mythology led Ludwig I. of Bavaria to erect a Temple of Fame at 
 Ratisbon (Regensburg) on the Danube, near Munich, in 1830-41, 
 to the worthy names in German history; and he called it Walhalla, 
 or the Hall of the Worthies. It stands on a hill overlooking the 
 Danube. It is in dimensions a counterpart of the Greek Parthenon. 
 It is built of marble, and cost 2,330,000 florins. It illustrates the 
 heroic history of all Germany in statues, busts, and tablets. It stands 
 apart from the city, and presents a most lofty and majestic appear- 
 ance as seen from afar.
 
 WALHALLA. 
 
 197 
 
 Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is the art city of Germany, and 
 one of the greatest of the art cities in the world. It is situated on 
 a plain high above the sea, and has about two hundred thousand 
 inhabitants ; below it rolls the Iser. It has forty-two churches, some 
 
 THE WALHALLA. 
 
 of which are treasures of art. King Ludwig I. gave his whole soul 
 to the improvement and adornment of the city. 
 
 In the suburb of Maximilian is the old Pinakothek, a grand 
 picture-gallery containing three hundred thousand engravings, and 
 very numerous and valuable works of art, and, opposite to it, the new 
 Pinakothek. devoted to the works of recent artists. The Glyptothek, 
 another art palace, is assigned to sculpture.
 
 198 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THf WORLD. 
 
 The library of Munich is one of the richest in the world. The 
 public houses are colossal. A liberal and literary spirit presides 
 
 INTERIOR OF THE WAI-HALLA. 
 
 over the place ; the soul of Ludwig makes its presence still felt 
 everywhere. 
 
 The gates of the city are noble ; and, among such adornments, the
 
 WALHALLA. 
 
 201 
 
 TRIUMPHAL ARCH, MUNICH, 
 
 Triumphal Arch, designed after the Triumphal Arch of Constantine, 
 is a famous work of modern reproductive art. 
 
 The Walhalla is some sixty or more miles from Munich. It can 
 be visited from Munich in a single day. 
 
 Mr. Davidson and Henry made a journey to the North, and visited 
 Denmark and Norway, where they saw the wonderful water-ways 
 called the Fjords. 
 
 Here they met a young traveller by the name of Grbn. This 
 young man had visited Lapland, and he gave them some interesting
 
 2O2 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 THE FJORD OF FRAMNAS. 
 
 accounts of the Laps, and of the sunsets for the nights of nearly half 
 a year. 1 
 
 THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 IF you will follow me from Thronhjeim (Drontheim), situated on 
 the western coast of Norway, at 63 30' north latitude, to the North 
 Cape, at 71 10' north latitude, I shall attempt to show you, not the 
 
 1 These accounts are furnished me by Niels Gron, a student from Denmark in America.
 
 THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 2O^ 
 
 *j 
 
 beautiful, fertile, and picturesque valleys of Norway and Sweden, nor 
 the unique customs and characteristics of the true Scandinavian, but 
 rather a country which stands in the same relation to Norway as 
 Alaska does to the United States, Siberia to Russia, and Canada to 
 England. 
 
 If you can now imagine yourself transported to Thronhjeim, you 
 will be surprised at rinding, in that high latitude, a city which vies 
 with our southern cities, both in beauty and modern improvements. 
 In many respects it is not surpassed even by beautiful Copenhagen. 
 Thronhjeim was once the capital of Norway, and the residence of her 
 kings. It has wide, well-paved, and clean streets. There are not less 
 than eighteen public institutions in Thronhjeim ; her schools are of a 
 high grade, ancient as well as modern languages being taught. The 
 houses are principally of wood, and most of them have pleasant gar- 
 dens attached, in which, during the season, may be found apples, pears, 
 plums, cherries, strawberries, potatoes, carnations, pinks, and roses. In 
 Thronhjeim may be seen the true Norwegian horse. It is a dark- 
 brown short-backed pony, with a fine crest and flowing mane, and is 
 remarkable for its strength, spirit, and beauty. 
 
 It might be of interest to observe the habits of the people in this 
 Naples of the North, but we must at once embark for the North Cape 
 and the Midnight Sun. The steamers which sail between Thronhjeim 
 and the North Cape cannot be compared with the Cunarders, yet they 
 are of sufficient size to be safe, and offer the traveller all the comforts 
 that can be desired. 
 
 After the steamer has left the harbour on its northward journey, 
 the traveller soon notices the wonderful transparency of the water, the 
 bottom, with its curious and numerous objects, being visible at a depth 
 of nearly one hundred and fifty feet. It is a delightful sensation 
 seemingly to sail up the steep side of a mountain, and then plunge 
 down into the deep valley. The crystal clearness of the water is, 
 however, lost in the dark-green depths of the ocean. As we proceed
 
 206 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 northward the coast becomes rugged and almost destitute of trees. 
 The snow-clad mountains rend the clouds, and in many places rise 
 perpendicularly above the level of the sea. The picturesque islands, 
 covered with flowers, trees, and beautiful villas, with which the western 
 
 VEBLUNGSNAESET. 
 
 coast of Norway is so abundantly supplied, now give place to bleak 
 and barren rocks. 
 
 Just before reaching the Lofoden Islands, you pass the renowned 
 Malstrom, about which so many mysteries have been conjectured. 
 The cause of it is simply this : " That the canal, or strait, of the West 
 Fjord does not afford a sufficiently quick outlet to the immense body
 
 THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 207 
 
 That it is dangerous to 
 
 of waters forced through these barriers." 
 navigation cannot be questioned. 
 
 The Lofoden Islands are the great fishing-station of the North. 
 Their appearance is rugged and dismal. Immense quantities of fish 
 are yearly shipped from here to all parts of the world. There the 
 
 THE FLADEL. 
 
 women as well as the men, struggle for subsistence, during twelve 
 months a year, with the cold harsh waves of the ocean. The women 
 are not less active than the men in managing boats; neither darkness 
 nor the beating waves can drive them to land for shelter. 
 
 On our journey we may observe the mountain of Sandhorn, reach- 
 ing about three thousand feet out of the sea, and, strange to say, on.
 
 208 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 VORINO PASS. 
 
 the top of that rock lies the 
 skeleton of a whale. How 
 it was thus elevated I shall 
 not attempt to say. 
 
 We have now arrived 
 in a country where, during 
 the summer months, the 
 sun does not sink below 
 the horizon. Did you ever 
 expect to find, in that ex- 
 treme north, almost under 
 the shadow of the- pole, in 
 a country bound by icy 
 barriers and swept by cold 
 Arctic winds, and where 
 for a large portion of the 
 year the illumining sun 
 does not cast its brilliant 
 and life-producing rays, 
 scenery as grand and as 
 sublime as any which Na- 
 ture has ever produced? 
 During the months of July 
 and August a prettier spot 
 can hardly be found. There 
 is then no alternation of 
 day and night ; the sun 
 gives heat and light con- 
 tinually, as if to compen- 
 sate for its long absence 
 during the winter months. 
 Vegetation now makes
 
 THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 2Og 
 
 wonderful strides. As the rays of the sun pour warmly down on the 
 desolate landscape, the green grass is dotted with dandelions, butter- 
 cups, violets, and forget-me-nots, which burst from the earth ; the dwarf 
 birch and willows are abundant. Nothing but the faithful eye can 
 report to the mind the grandeur of the scenery, as the sun at midnight, 
 with its delicate tints and various shades, paints the sky, the lofty and 
 snow-capped mountains, the green-clad valleys and rolling billows of 
 the sea. 
 
 Contrast with this scene the dreary and desolate appearance which 
 this country presents during the cold and dark winter. The sun 
 entirely disappears ; and human existence would then be impossible, if 
 it was not for the moderating influence of the Gulf Stream. Think 
 of the Arctic fishers burning upon their hearths the palms of Hayti, 
 the mahogany of Honduras, and the precious woods of the Amazon 
 and the Orinoco, carried there by the Gulf Stream! 
 
 At Mageroe and Hammerfest, situated at 71 north latitude, the 
 sole industry is fishing, and the principal article of food is fish. The 
 people, however, possess a few small cows, sheep, and a great many 
 goats ; but as sufficient grass and moss cannot be obtained during the 
 summer, the cows and sheep must, in the winter time, eat fish. 
 
 Can you imagine yourself standing on the bold promontory of the 
 North Cape at 71 10' north latitude, at midday, surrounded by dark- 
 ness, and hearing nothing but the shrill sounds of the Arctic winds 
 and the sad murmur of the waves beating against the lonely rocks? 
 Then you are able to appreciate your own land, which flows with milk 
 and honey. The people of that far north are, however, as happy and 
 as content as any on the face of the earth, at least, that is clearly 
 the sentiment of Goldsmith when he says : 
 
 " The shuddering tenant of the frigid zone 
 Boldly proclaims the happiest land his own." 
 
 [The subject of the midnight sun was so interesting to Henry that 
 he desired that the Danish student and traveller should give him 
 
 14
 
 210 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 some further account of the scenes with more of detail. This the 
 student did, and greatly filled the imagination of those who listened 
 to him.] 
 
 Lapland, the country of the Lapps, is situated north of Sweden, 
 extending between sixty-four and sixty-nine degrees north latitude. 
 The fact that it is thus overshadowed by the North Pole does not 
 prevent it from exhibiting at times quite romantic scenery. In the 
 southern portion of Lapland the lakes are quite numerous ; whereas, 
 in the northern portion, the snow-clad mountains predominate. This 
 natural feature of the country gives rise to two distinct classes of 
 Laplanders, namely, the nomad, or mountain, Lapps, and the fisher 
 Lapps. This latter class have been attracted to the barren shores 
 of the lakes by the abundance of fish which they contain. 
 
 The fisher Lapp, though he migrates between a summer and 
 a winter residence, and during the latter season dwells in the forest 
 and occasionally hunts the wild reindeer, is much more settled in his 
 habits than the nomad. He builds himself a hut for his residence. 
 The mountain Lapp and his reindeer are so identified that it is 
 impossible to separate the two. The Lapp can live for months 
 without a ray of sunlight, but he cannot live a day without the 
 reindeer ; it serves him as a horse, and its milk and meat are his 
 food, and its skin his clothing. The reindeer are very numerous, 
 and are able to subsist on the moss and lichens gathered from beneath 
 the snow. 
 
 The reindeer recognises in the wolf its bitterest foe. In spite of 
 its master's vigilance and careful guarding, thousands of reindeer are 
 yearly killed by the numerous flocks of starving wolves which roam 
 over the mountains during the long winters. In the winter, the 
 Lapp does not need to act in the capacity of a butcher; the wolf 
 performs that duty for him, although he often thereby loses the 
 choicest morsel. 
 
 The night in Lapland is protracted. It begins in October and
 
 THE CHURCH' AT BAKKE.
 
 THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 213 
 
 ends in June, continuing eight or nine months. In order fully to com- 
 prehend what it means for human beings to live through such a long 
 night, it is necessary for the reader to know not only the length of the 
 night in days and months, but also the many hardships and privations 
 with which it is accompanied. King Frost, with his cold and grim 
 visage, then sways his despotic sceptre. The shelter and food which 
 he affords his subjects during his tyrannical reign would cause a shep- 
 herd dog of Pennsylvania to starve and freeze, both at the same time, 
 even during the comparatively mild winter in our latitude. The 
 Lapp has for a habitation nothing but a few stakes of wood set up, 
 with a kind of cloth or turf spread over them, leaving an opening at 
 the top to draw out the smoke, and a hole at the bottom through 
 which the inhabitants crawl in and out on their hands and knees. 
 From the fireplace in the centre of the hut, little heat and a great deal 
 of smoke are obtained. Their beds are nothing but a reindeer skin, 
 spread on the ground around the fireplace. Try to imagine how a 
 whole family, with innumerable dogs, can stow themselves into the 
 compass of a circle eight feet in diameter. The fisher Lapp often digs 
 down into mother earth, and thus reposes in her bosom. Although 
 there are some of the Laplanders who live fairly well, yet the 
 majority subsist on very scanty food. Some rye and wheat are im- 
 ported, but their bread is made principally from the bark of trees and 
 from chopped hay. 
 
 On some fine evening in October you may see a solemn proces- 
 sion, composed of both sexes and of all ages, ascending a high hill to 
 see the last of their best friend, the sun, for that year, and to bid the 
 orb of day "good-bye." It is a strangely picturesque sight, and not 
 without its pathos, as the young and vigorous, as well as the old and 
 tottering, with tear-stained cheeks, gaze at the sinking luminary whose 
 short stay among them changed their country, we may almost say, 
 into a garden of Eden, and whose departure brings suffering, hardship, 
 and death. Turn your gaze from the depressed company and view
 
 214 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 the glorious sky as the sun makes its final plunge beneath the 
 horizon, and you will see a picture such as artist never painted. 
 
 Listen, and you may now hear 
 the solemn chant of some 
 heathen song, in which the 
 Laplanders bewail the depart- 
 ing day; after which they re- 
 turn to their huts to struggle 
 many months, until that glori- 
 ous occasion when they shall 
 again hail the first ray of the 
 long-absent sun. They are, 
 however, not left entirely in 
 the dark during the long win- 
 ter months. From the north- 
 ern horizon the aurora borealis 
 shoots its high flashes even to 
 the zenith. When the sky is 
 clear, there is generally suffi- 
 cient light, for two or three 
 ffi\ hours in every twenty-four, to 
 read from a book without ar- 
 tificial light. 
 
 There is nothing so fasci- 
 nating to the yo 
 turer as to sit in 
 sledge while the reindeer, swift 
 as the hawk, dashes over moun- 
 tains and valleys, over the 
 smooth surface of the snow, 
 and through deep drifts, at a tremendous speed. 
 
 The Laplanders are of small stature, averaging between four and 
 
 ng adven- 
 a Lapland 
 
 SCENE IN NORWAY.
 
 "THE SILVER TUREEN: 
 
 215 
 
 one-half and five feet. As a rule, they have sore eyes, doubtless on 
 account of the constant snow and smoky huts. Women, as well as 
 men, smoke tobacco, and liquor is indulged in to some extent. The 
 people are very hospitable, honest, and kind-hearted. They regard a 
 stranger as a guest sent by the Lord. 
 
 In Germany children go through Fairyland to cultivate the 
 imagination ; so do the children of the North. 
 
 Some of the household stories of the North are charming, and we 
 have read none more curious and suggestive than the one that we are 
 about to tell. It is commonly known as 
 
 "THE SILVER TUREEN." 
 
 There was once a certain king who used to visit his subjects in disguise 
 that he might better understand their wants and opinions. 
 
 One day as he was riding into a forest in disguise, he saw an old man and 
 an old woman sawing wood. 
 
 " It is a hard lot you have," he said to the old woman. 
 
 " Yes, it is all owing to Adam." 
 
 " Is your husband's name Adam? " 
 
 " Yes ; but it was not that Adam to which I referred." 
 
 " It is all owing to Eve ! " said the old man. 
 
 " Is your wife named Eve?" asked the disguised king. 
 
 " Yes ; but it was not that Eve of whom I spoke." 
 
 The old man looked suspiciously towards the old woman. 
 
 The old woman looked suspiciously towards the old man. 
 
 " There is much of Adam in most men," said the king, "and much of Eve 
 in most women." 
 
 " Yes," said the old man. 
 
 " Yes," said the old woman. 
 
 " But why," asked the king, " do you thus complain of Adam and 
 Eve?" 
 
 " He ate the forbidden fruit," said the old woman. 
 
 " She told him to eat it," said the old man. " Women always do." 
 
 "And men obey them," said the old woman. 
 
 " What would you have done had you been placed in the Garden of 
 Eden?" asked the king, of the old woman.
 
 2l6 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " I would have obeyed, and we should all have been in paradise now, and 
 never a bit of sawing wood would there have been." 
 
 " Never a bit you would ! " said the old man. " Your curiosity is bigger 
 than Eve's. Was there ever anything secret that you did not want to know? 
 Why, woman, you have never obeyed me." 
 
 " Because I followed my own better judgment," said the old woman. 
 
 " She thinks she knows everything," said the old man. 
 
 " But what would you have done had you been in the garden ? " asked the 
 king. 
 
 " I would have said to the woman, Begone ! " 
 
 " Not a bit you would ! " said the old woman. " You never said anything 
 like that to me." 
 
 "Adam was a foolish man," said the old man. " Had I been in his place, 
 we should all be in paradise now, and the trees would have brought forth golden 
 apples, and the streams would have flowed with milk and honey." 
 
 " Come with me to my castle," said the king. 
 
 " Do you own a castle? " asked the old woman. " I thought that you were 
 a courier." 
 
 " Why do you ask us? " said the old man. 
 
 " I wish to help you. You are having a hard time ; but I fear that you 
 misjudge our first parents, Adam and Eve." 
 
 " But we do not misjudge each other," said the old man. 
 
 " How do you know? " asked the old woman. 
 
 " Your curiosity would send you on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem," said the 
 old man. 
 
 " And your want of good sense would lead you to run after me," said the 
 old woman. 
 
 " Come," said the king, " follow me." 
 
 So the old man and the old woman dropped their axes, and followed the 
 disguised king, and they all came to a great and splendid castle. 
 
 "Why did you bring us here?" asked the old man. 
 
 " To give you a home with me. " 
 
 " For how long?" asked the old woman. 
 
 " For as long as you obey me," said the king. 
 
 "Are we to work?" asked the old man. 
 
 " No, you are to obey." 
 
 "That will be easy for me," said the old man. 
 
 " And easier for me," said the old woman. 
 
 " There is nothing easier than to obey," said the old man. " What are 
 your commands?"
 
 CASCADE ON THE ROSOTA.
 
 THE SILVER TUREEN." 
 
 219 
 
 " They are very simple. You are to have everything that you want You 
 are to feast from my tables. Only I shall place upon one table this silver 
 tureen, and you must never lift the cover to look into it." 
 
 " What should we want to for? " asked the old woman. 
 
 " I do not know," said the king. 
 
 " Is that all that we are to obey ? " asked the old man. 
 
 " That is all," said the king. 
 
 " That is easy indeed ! " said the old man. 
 
 " Easy enough," said the old woman. 
 
 "Then live here and be happy," said the king. 
 
 The old couple were very happy. 
 
 " What luck ! " said the old man. 
 
 " I always told you that I would bring you good luck," said the old woman. 
 " What do you suppose is in the tureen? What did he do that for? " 
 
 " It is queer. But what do we care about what is in the tureen ? If it 
 be gold, it would not be ours." 
 
 " It may be a serpent; who knows? " 
 
 " It was a serpent that beguiled Eve." 
 
 " No serpent will ever beguile me ! What do I care about what is in 
 the tureen? What did he bring it here for? He must have a very curious 
 mind." 
 
 " As curious as a woman's. I would n't take the tureen if he would give it 
 me." 
 
 " I hate to look at the old tureen. Maybe that there's a fairy in it." 
 
 " Maybe." 
 
 " How does a fairy look? " 
 
 " Like a little angel with wings of gold." 
 
 " How pretty ! I wish I could see one." 
 
 " If you could catch one it would bring you gold." 
 
 " But it might fly away." 
 
 A day passed. 
 
 The old woman's curiosity to know what was in the tureen grew. 
 
 Another day passed. Her curiosity became stronger. She could not 
 sleep. 
 
 On the third day, she said to the old man, 
 
 " Now what do you really think is in the tureen ? " 
 
 "A serpent." 
 
 " No, a fairy." 
 
 " Could we know, it would make but little difference. We have all that we
 
 220 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 want now. I sometimes would like to run home again, and put up our axes. 
 We left them out of doors." 
 
 " But what do we want of axes? " 
 
 " Nothing, only old things are sacred." 
 
 " Husband, if we were to lift the cover of the tureen just a little, we could 
 have an opinion, and the king would not know." 
 
 " You have a curiosity like Eve's." 
 
 " I only would like to know if the tureen is safe." 
 
 " I would like to know the king's mind in this thing." 
 
 14 So would I." 
 
 The fourth day came. 
 
 " Husband," said the old woman, " are you perfectly happy? " 
 
 "Not altogether happy." 
 
 " You would be if only you knew what was in the tureen? " 
 
 " Yes." 
 
 " So would I." 
 
 " Let 's lift the cover just a little, and you peep in." 
 
 The old woman lifted the cover of the tureen just a little. Adam lifted it 
 a little more. 
 
 Ugh! 
 
 Out leaped a little mouse ! 
 
 " Kill him ! " cried the old woman. 
 
 " No, catch him and put him back, or the king will know, for our master 
 is the king." 
 
 " I catch a mouse? a woman catch a mouse? " 
 
 "I'll catch him." 
 
 "Where is he?" 
 
 " Show me quick." 
 
 " I do not know he ran." 
 
 " Hark ! the king is coming." 
 
 " What will we do ! " exclaimed both. 
 
 The king came in ; he had on heavy boots, and a severe face. He 
 lifted the cover of the tureen. 
 
 "Where is the mouse? " he exclaimed. 
 
 " I do not know," said the old woman. 
 
 " He has escaped," said the king. 
 
 " If he had been an elephant, he would n't have got away," said the old 
 woman. 
 
 " You have lifted the cover of the tureen," said the king.
 
 "THE SILVER TUREEN? 221 
 
 " How do you know? " 
 
 "Adam, where is the mouse? " asked the king. 
 
 " She told me to." 
 
 " Oh, you are a fine couple to be blaming Adam and Eve, when you are 
 no better. Never blame others for your own faults. People see the faults of 
 others through their own. Do you see yourselves now?" 
 
 " Let us go home, and put up our axes," said the old woman. 
 
 " Corne," said the old man. 
 
 They went home, and whenever they met a fault-finder, they told the 
 story of the fugitive mouse and the silver tureen.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 BELGIUM. 
 
 UR travellers went to beautiful Brussels, one of the 
 most prosperous cities on earth. Which is the more 
 delightful, Brussels or Berlin ? Belgium is a neutral 
 country, although once the battle-field of Europe, 
 so that here, as in Switzerland, it may be hoped has 
 dawned the era of eternal peace. 
 They went to the battle-field of Waterloo, a few miles from 
 Brussels. We visited the field last year with a friend, and he has 
 kindly allowed us to reproduce his published account of our visit. 
 
 A VISIT TO THE BATTLE-FIELD OF WATERLOO. 
 
 HAVING a few days at my disposal, after arriving in Europe before 
 the opening of the recent Peace Congress at Antwerp, I went one 
 day, in company with some other American delegates to the Congress, 
 to visit the historic battle-ground of Waterloo. I had long wanted 
 to see this memorable spot, because of the place which it holds in 
 history. Just before leaving Brussels for the trip, I incidentally men- 
 tioned to a lady (one of the peace-workers of Belgium, on whom I 
 was calling), that I was going out to see Waterloo. She seemed 
 somewhat amazed that such a blood-stained spot should have any 
 attractions for a peace-man, and gently chided me, in vigorous French,
 
 WATERLOO.
 
 BELGIUM. 
 
 225 
 
 for what she thought a sort of contradiction in character. I explained 
 to her, as best I could, my motive ; and, though it was raining, we set 
 out to visit the scene of the battle whose outcome has been thought 
 by some to have been determined by the heavy rains which fell on 
 the night previous to its occurrence. 
 
 The place is about twelve miles southeast of Brussels, and is 
 easily reached by the railway, which runs within a mile and a half of 
 the spot. Waterloo, the village after which the battle got its name, 
 is not the nearest station to the battle-field, and you are a little sur- 
 prised on arriving there to be told not to get out, but to go on a 
 station or two farther. 
 
 From Braine 1'Alleud, where you leave the train, the Waterloo 
 monument is distinctly seen, about a mile and a half away. This 
 monument is a conical mound of earth 200 feet high and 1700 feet 
 in circumference at the base, and is crowned by an immense bronze 
 lion, weighing over 20 tons, made from the cannon captured from the 
 French. It was erected about seven years after the battle, on the 
 spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded ; and beneath it lie, 
 heaped up promiscuously, the bones of those friend and foe who 
 perished in the conflict. The mound was three years in building ; 
 and the earth of which it is composed was carried up on the backs 
 of three hundred Flemish women. 
 
 In order to get a better idea of the region, we avoided the anxious 
 vehicles standing at the station ready to carry us, and went on foot 
 across the country. By this time the rain had ceased, and the peas- 
 ants were working in the fields and travelling along the roads with as 
 much quietness and assurance as if the earth had never witnessed 
 the horrors of a battle since the dawn of creation. We went through 
 cuts in the unmacadamised road, which must have been much the same 
 in Napoleon's time, and which enabled us to understand the disaster 
 of "the sunken road," so vividly described by Victor Hugo. This 
 *' sunken road " runs close by the mound. It has since been macada- 
 
 15
 
 226 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 mised, and one bank of it, at least, taken away to furnish material 
 for the mound. The English officer mentioned farther on tried to 
 make us believe that no such " sunken road " disaster occurred ; but 
 the more we examined the place, and questioned him, the more we 
 were convinced that it happened substantially as Victor Hugo 
 describes it. We gathered wild red poppies from the roadside, 
 and, without much effort, could imagine them dripping with human 
 blood, like the shrubs pulled from the tomb of Polydorus in Virgil's 
 story of yEneas. 
 
 Running the gauntlet of the beggars and the money-harpies, who 
 infest Waterloo as they do every other historic spot in Europe, and 
 whom it is hard to shake off without violating your peace principles, 
 we climbed slowly step after step of the granite stairs, to the top 
 of the great mound. The huge lion was looking bravely away toward 
 Belle Alliance, where Napoleon had his headquarters, and from which> 
 from half-past eleven in the morning till late in the afternoon of 
 that fateful i8th of June, he hurled forward his battalions, and broke 
 them in pieces on the impregnable lines of Wellington's allied forces. 
 The whole region round about was one of extreme rural beauty under 
 the half-clouded August sun. The peasants had gathered their har- 
 vests from the fertile soil, and the fields and groves and roads lay 
 there in undisturbed peace, as if they had never heard the trampling 
 hoofs of -war. 
 
 It was difficult for me to get rid of the idea of the place which had 
 grown up in my mind from reading the descriptions of the fierce 
 brutality and the savage inhumanity of the battle. The place, it 
 seemed to me, ought to be like the scene which has made it famous, 
 wild, rugged, desolate, repulsive. This idea of battle-fields is of course 
 wrong, and purely the product of association ; but it is in my mind 
 in connection with every great battle of history, and has to be vigor- 
 ously reasoned away before it can be gotten rid of. The field of 
 Waterloo was, on the whole, nearly the same in 1815 as now.
 
 BELGIUM. 227 
 
 An English cavalry officer who gives lectures on the battle to 
 visitors was in the midst of a dramatic description of the fight when 
 we arrived at the top of the monument. Soon the whole ghastly 
 scene was re-enacting itself before our imaginations. Napoleon, cold, 
 callous, pitiless, on his white horse at Belle Alliance, away in front of 
 us to the southeast ; the fierce struggle around the castle of Hougo- 
 mont, a mile away to our right; down to our left the bloody tide 
 surging about the farm-house of La Haye Sainte, whose pierced doors 
 and battered walls still bear witness to the death-harvest of that day . 
 farther to the left " the sunken road," into which the front lines of 
 Napoleon's cavalry were pushed, and where they were crushed to death 
 by the storm of assault which whirled on behind them ; farther off 
 in the same direction, the position of Wellington ; back of the 
 " sunken road," the Iron Duke's classic squares, melting away before 
 the merciless onslaughts of the French cavalry, but never yielding; 
 the streams of blood running down into the valley which separated 
 the two commanders ; the whole region strewn with the mangled 
 bodies of the dead and the writhing, moaning forms of the wounded ; 
 the ceaseless roar of the cannon ; the wrathful cursing of the angry 
 men ; Blucher coming up late in the day and falling upon the 
 exhausted and decimated French lines ; the turning back of the tide 
 of battle; the rout ; the haste and confusion of the flight; the great 
 conqueror vanquished, and left stalking about at his horse's bridle, 
 helpless as a child, all this seemed to come back and stand at the 
 moment before our eyes in all its hideous deformity. 
 
 Going down from the mound, we found our way to the farm-house 
 of La Haye Sainte, whose court looks as if it had never been cleaned 
 up since the advent of horses and dogs and chickens. We drank 
 (the lady of our party did not drink) of the water of the well into 
 which tradition says that many bodies were thrown after the battle. 
 I asked the peasant girl who was conducting us whether any bodies 
 were really thrown into the well. She answered with all seriousness :
 
 228 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " Oh, oui, monsieur, beaucoup, beaucoup " (Oh, yes, sir, lots of them). 
 We did not visit the well of Hougomont, at the other side of the 
 battle-field, into which there is little doubt that bodies were thrown. 
 
 Waterloo is chiefly interesting, not because it was the greatest and 
 bloodiest battle of history, for it was neither, but because it marks 
 a distinct and very important stage in the progress of civilisation. 
 Napoleon was the last of the ambitious military autocrats who fought 
 for the self-gratification of fighting, and loved conquest for its own 
 sake. Victor Hugo said of him that " he was a burden to God." He 
 was also a burden to man. The intelligence and conscience and 
 individual self-respect of the race had, through many hindrances, 
 reached such a state of development as never again to tolerate such a 
 military despot in any country. 
 
 Much of the old spirit of submission to military tyranny still 
 survives, but not in a form ever to enthrone another Napoleon. His 
 race is gone for ever. The military slavery of our time is as absolute, 
 in Europe, at least, as was the old, but it is a slavery to the state, to 
 the body politic, and not to the individual. It may be reached, there- 
 fore, and overcome through the moral processes by which a state 
 is regenerated. The control of armies by nations, in which there is 
 a growing sense of freedom and equality, means the greater infre- 
 quency of actual war, and its ultimate abolition when a majority of 
 the people come to have sufficient intelligence and moral perception 
 to see its uselessness, its unreasonableness, and its inhumanity. 
 
 With the fall of the conqueror came also the decline of the spirit 
 of aggression. The spirit of aggression has now so far disappeared 
 that national boundaries are nearly universally respected, and no 
 nation seeks to bring under its own sovereignty another nation. The 
 movement everywhere is towards national freedom, and towards respect 
 of this freedom by others. 
 
 Since Waterloo, also, international co-operation, on a basis of 
 mutual respect and the desire to be helpful to others, has been
 
 BELGIUM. 
 
 229 
 
 steadily on the increase. This co-operation has manifested itself to 
 some extent along the lines of trade, and more fully still through a 
 
 NAPOLEON RECEIVED ON "THE BELLEROPHON." 
 
 larger-hearted diplomacy, through treaties of arbitration, and through 
 united efforts of many kinds for the promotion of the good of all 
 races and of all countries. 
 
 In Napoleon and the Napoleonic campaigns the absurdity of war
 
 230 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 reached its height. Men began then to think and to say that the 
 whole system, deep-rooted as it was, was radically wrong, and that it 
 ought to be, and could be, entirely destroyed. The movement for its 
 abolition, which has now become so strong in all civilised countries, 
 and which is every year widening the scope of its influence, began in 
 the same year in which the Battle of Waterloo was fought, as a 
 reaction against the continued butcheries which had desolated the 
 world. The great French writer quoted above was not right in 
 saying that Waterloo was not a battle ; but he was right in declaring 
 that it was " the hinge of the nineteenth century," " the change of 
 front of the universe." 
 
 As a last reflection, I may say that Waterloo exemplifies in a 
 striking way that saying of Jesus, that " all they that take the sword 
 shall perish with the sword." The great incoherent structure which 
 Napoleon had built up by the sword in Western Europe had already 
 collapsed, but on that day he himself fell, and his power perished 
 for ever. Henceforth there was none to deliver him. The sword was 
 held over his prostrate head as long as he lived. His name was cast 
 out as evil; his fame was turned into infamy. It shall be thus with 
 the whole war system. Its temple doors have already begun to open 
 with a grating sound, and voices have been heard, saying. " The glory 
 is departing." l 
 
 Waterloo! We rode through the forest of Ardennes, and gazed 
 back into the sunset, and the land was at peace. For, as we said, 
 Belgium is neutralised. You may not know what neutralised means. 
 When a country like Belgium or Switzerland makes treaties with the 
 other European powers to the effect that it will wage no more war, 
 and will not permit invasion without protest or violation of treaty, 
 it is said to be neutralised. 
 
 Belgium was the scene of some of the great battles of history, but 
 
 1 Benjamin F. Trueblood, in the "Advocate of Peace."
 
 BELGIUM. 231 
 
 is now a land of peace. We looked back in the sunset upon the 
 field of Waterloo, and thought of that sunset that saw Napoleon 
 defeated, and of that night that found him in the orchard all alone, 
 he who in the misty morning of that June day thought that all the 
 world was his. 
 
 We went back to Antwerp. The Peace and Arbitration Con- 
 gress was in session, and the King of Belgium, through one of 
 his ministers, gave the members of the Congress a banquet on 
 the sea. 
 
 Antwerp means the thrown hand. Its historic legend is full of 
 noble meaning. We tried to tell it in verse on our return from this 
 royal banquet on the sea. 
 
 THE BANQUET ON THE SEA. 
 
 THE sky was bright ; the river glassed ; 
 All nations' flags round Antwerpen, - 
 As down the Scheldt our steamer passed 
 That sun-crowned day at Antwerpen. 
 The high tower in the clear air played ; 
 The dike-grass gleamed in sun and shade; 
 And cannonless the ramparts made 
 Peace smile on Peace at Antwerpen. 
 
 We never can forget that day. 
 
 Thanks, glorious king! Thanks, Antwerpen! 
 
 Thanks, burgomaster ! On our way 
 
 Adown the Scheldt from Antwerpen, 
 
 Emblem of Peace, the waters lay, 
 
 God's open book in face of day; 
 
 We heard afar the sweet chimes play, 
 
 As sunk the towers of Antwerpen. 
 
 Below, the sea, above, the skies, 
 That afternoon near Antwerpen, 
 Lay like a dream of Paradise 
 As faded ancient Antwerpen ;
 
 232 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The willows smiled, by sunlight kissed ; 
 The dike-grass, walls of amethyst ; 
 The Scheldt, without a breath of mist ; 
 The day was Peace, O Antwerpen ! 
 
 O burgess of the ancient town, 
 A statue stands in Antwerpen, 
 Before the town-house looking down 
 Towards the sea from Antwerpen ; 
 A glorious fount its feet enfolds 
 What means the hero there who holds 
 A severed hand? An emblem moulds 
 The people's hearts of Antwerpen ! 
 
 The burgess laughed, those happy men, 
 As on we passed from Antwerpen ; 
 " That statue stands for Liberty, 
 And Liberty is Antwerpen. 
 'T is Justice's hand that makes us free; 
 'T is Justice that on land and sea 
 Makes Peace eternal : blest are we 
 Since Justice governs Antwerpen ! " 
 
 O burgess, burgess, tell the tale, 
 
 Your legend grand of Antwerpen ! 
 
 " Yes, friends of Peace, and you will hail 
 
 That statue dear to Antwerpen. 
 
 Antigonus, a giant old, 
 
 Laid on the sea a tax of gold, 
 
 And every prospered ship he tolled, 
 
 That turned its sails towards Antwerpen. 
 
 " And if some trader failed to pay 
 This giant's tax on Antwerpen, 
 Him seized the lord, and cast away 
 His severed hand at Antwerpen. 
 Young Brabo led a noble band ; 
 He slew this giant of the land, 
 Cut off his head, and threw his hand 
 Into the sea at Antwerpen.
 
 BELGIUM. 
 
 " The Northern season came and went, 
 To Antwerpen, from Antwerpen, 
 But golden ships with storm-sails spent 
 Moored in the calms of Antwerpen. 
 So, when tax-gathering war is done, 
 May Peace be statued in the sun, 
 And round her feet pure fountains run, 
 As in the Square of Antwerpen 
 
 " And Liberty is Antwerpen ; 
 
 And cannonless above the sea, 
 
 The ramparts bloom round Antwerpen." 
 
 We toasted then grand Belgium's king 
 
 Who gave the banquet on the sea ; 
 
 And as we heard the high chimes ring 
 
 O'er Brabo's fount of Liberty, 
 
 The Belgian flag we cheered, and cried, 
 
 As touched the quay the steamer's side, 
 
 " For ever live, O Antwerpen ! " 
 
 We brought the flag born of the light, 
 
 To prophecy, O Antwerpen ; 
 
 One little bell we rung for right 
 
 'Mid thy sweet chimes, O Antwerpen ! . 
 
 The flag white-bordered, may it bear 
 
 The stars of Peace in choral air, 
 
 And every bell ring everywhere, 
 
 For Peace like ours at Antwerpen. 
 
 We never shall forget that day. 
 
 Thanks, glorious king; thanks, Antwerpen. 
 
 Heaven's face upon the waters lay, 
 
 And crowned the towers of Antwerpen. 
 
 We wave reluctant hands to thee, 
 
 And ever in our memory 
 
 Will live that banquet on the sea 
 
 Hail and farewell, O Antwerpen ! 
 
 2 33
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 SOUTHAMPTON AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 which may stand for the Isle of 
 Wight, the cathedral town or city of Winchester, 
 and for the historic park of the New Forest, is the 
 most delightful port in the world for an American 
 traveller to rest. Its docks are an ocean city ; they 
 touch the whole world. One may make excursions 
 to nearly all lands from there. 
 
 The city has one of the most soft, mellow, bright climates in all 
 England. Fogs seldom visit it. Across the ferry from it, on the Isle of 
 Wight, is Osborne House, a favourite residence of the Royal Family, 
 and Farringford, the late home of Lord Tennyson. One of the most 
 quiet and beautiful places of residence on the island is Ventnor, which 
 has a sub-tropical climate even in winter. Behind it rises a great 
 chalk hill, or mountain, or "downs," some seven hundred or eight hun- 
 dred feet in height, breaking the northern winds. Before it is the sea, 
 with warm southerly currents and airs. Great charitable institutions 
 are here, and England's Consumptives' Home. The neighbourhoods 
 are full of ruins, some of which are older than the birth of Chris- 
 tianity. One of the oldest and smallest Christian churches in 
 England is here. 
 
 Ventnor is not only one of the best places in the world for invalids, 
 but for people in any part of the world who have historic and schol- 
 arly tastes, and who are seeking quiet and rest. A daily steamer from 
 Southampton touches here, and there is rail and ferry communication
 
 SOUTHAMPTON AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 235 
 
 with the great port several times a day. All the scenic and literary 
 privileges of Southampton may be secured from sheltered Ventnor. 
 It is an excellent resort for an American who is worn down by busi- 
 ness, social obligation, and nervous exhaustion. 
 
 Southampton? What are its privileges? An illustrated book, or 
 pamphlet, entitled, " Buxey's Southampton," which we purchased there 
 a season ago, gives a very full and attractive answer to these questions. 
 It says : 
 
 " The port stands upon a peninsula at the head of the wide water- 
 way which bears its name, and immediately at the confluence of the 
 rivers Itchen and Test. It is claimed for the Southampton Water 
 that it is one of the safest harbours on our coasts, whilst it possesses 
 an advantage of that peculiar phenomenon, a double tide twice in 
 twenty-four hours to be found at no other port in the kingdom, if 
 in the whole world. This is believed to be caused by the currents in 
 the Channel between Spithead and the Needles, owing to the situation 
 of the Isle of Wight, arresting for a time the fall of the tide after it 
 has reached high water at Southampton. From the point of low 
 water the tide rises steadily for seven hours, and it is then the first or 
 high water proper. It then ebbs slightly for an hour, falling some 
 eight or nine inches, and then rises again for an hour and a quarter, 
 frequently exceeding its former level. This is the second high water, 
 and remains stationary about two hours, the result being that there is 
 practically high water at the port for four hours out of twelve. 
 
 " The advantages which are thus given to the port in these days of 
 deep-draught ships can hardly be over-estimated, and is another proof 
 that in her gifts to Southampton Dame Nature dealt out with a 
 plenteous hand. 
 
 " It was in the early days of the present century that an Act of 
 Parliament was passed for extending the quays and making docks; 
 but it was not until 1820 that any particular progress was made. In 
 that year the first steamer began plying upon the Southampton water-
 
 2-S.6 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 way. In 1835, the South of England Steam Navigation Company and 
 the Commercial Steam Packet Company were both formed, whilst an 
 event ever to be associated with the rise and progress of the time was 
 the opening of the railway (in 1840) between London and Southamp- 
 ton.' Two years later the Docks, which had taken four years to 
 construct, were opened, and, within twelve months of that date, South- 
 ampton was selected as the port for landing and embarking the mails 
 carried by the Peninsular and Oriental and the Royal Mail Com- 
 panies, whilst other lines of steamers have since had the port for their 
 headquarters. 
 
 " The Peninsular and Oriental Company, which for over forty years 
 (from 1840 to 1881) had Southampton as the headquarters for its 
 magnificent fleet, has partially renewed its connection with the port. 
 Passengers landing or embarking at the Docks have every convenience 
 and facility. Special trains from Waterloo Station (London) run 
 direct to the mail steamers or tenders on days of sailing, and vice 
 versa on arrival. 
 
 " The following is a list of the companies at present connected 
 with the port : The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, carrying 
 mails to the West Indies and Brazil ; the Union Steamship Com- 
 pany, with a service every alternate Saturday for the Cape of Good 
 Hope and Natal, whilst intermediate steamers leave every fortnight ; 
 and there is also maintained a monthly service to Madagascar and 
 Mauritius. On the alternate Saturday sailings are taken by the fine 
 vessels of the Donald Currie line to the Cape. The North German 
 Lloyd Company's steamers, on the New York line, leave every 
 Wednesday and Sunday, an additional vessel being despatched on 
 Thursdays during the busy season ; whilst on the Eastern lines the 
 Company's steamers leave the port, via Colombo, every fourth Sunday 
 for China and Japan, also every fourth Sunday for Australia. The 
 Inman Line, or, as it is now known, the American Line, has also made 
 the port its place of arrival and departure, and has a regular weekly
 
 SOUTHAMPTON AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 237 
 
 service to and from Southampton and New York. The Rotterdamsche 
 Lloyd Steam Shipping Company's steamers sail from Southampton 
 every alternate Tuesday for Java, via Suez Canal, taking passengers 
 and cargo for Marseilles, Batavia, Cheribon, Samarang, Sourabaya, 
 and the Java ports. The Hamburg-American Steam Packet Com- 
 pany's twin-screw steamers, during a portion of the year, sail from 
 Southampton on Friday for New York. The Nederland Steamship 
 Company every fourteen days despatches a vessel for Java. For the 
 carrying on of the large and important 'trade with the Channel 
 Islands, the London and South-Western Steam Packet Company have 
 an excellent fleet, and daily, except Sunday, the steamers sail between 
 Southampton, the Channel Islands, and several of the French ports. 
 The City of Cork Steam Packet Company, and the British and Irish 
 Steam Packet Company, keep up frequent communication, not only 
 between the town and several of the Irish ports, but they also call at 
 Plymouth and Falmouth, whilst a good trade is carried on between 
 the town, and Plymouth, Waterford, and Glasgow, by the Clyde Ship- 
 ping Company. The General Steam Navigation Company sail weekly 
 to Bordeaux and several Spanish ports. 
 
 " In connection with the vessels which run to and from the port, no 
 Guide would be complete without reference to those of the Southamp- 
 ton, Isle of Wight, and South of England Royal Mail Steam Packet 
 Company. Frequently each day these steamers ply between South- 
 ampton, the Isle of Wight, and Portsmouth, whilst during the summer 
 and autumn seasons cheap excursions (which are very popular) daily 
 run to such favoured places as Cowes, Ryde, Totland Bay, Alum Bay, 
 the Needles Rocks, Sea View, Southsea, and even Bournemouth, 
 Brighton, and Weymouth ; whilst several times during the season the 
 Isle of Wight, with its lovely scenery, from sand strands and rock- 
 bound shores to the vast rolling downs and charming chines, is cir- 
 cumnavigated by one or other of the Company's fast and commodious 
 steamers.
 
 2 3 8 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " Several times during the day a steamer leaves the town quay 
 for Hythe, upon the opposite shore, whilst there is a double floating- 
 bridge service across the Itchen, by means of which one of South- 
 ampton's most charming suburbs, Woolston, is brought into easy 
 communication with the town. Netley Abbey and Hospital can also 
 be reached by this route as well as by rail. 
 
 " Apart from the fact that when once inside the wide estuary 
 vessels are really within an extended sheltered harbour, and that the 
 
 depth of water was found to be 
 sufficient for the ' Great Eastern ' 
 steamship to swing at anchor 
 with perfect safety, the town 
 possesses special facilities in the 
 way of dock, wharf, and quay 
 accommodation. The docks im- 
 mediately adjoin the terminus 
 of the London and South-West- 
 ern Railway. They were de- 
 signed with special regard to the 
 quick despatch of passengers, 
 mails, and merchandize, and by 
 HENRY vin. means of several large graving- 
 
 docks provide facilities for the 
 
 repair of ships of the largest class. They comprise a tidal basin of 
 sixteen acres, with an entrance one hundred and fifty feet wide, and a 
 depth of water of thirty-one feet at high-water spring-tides, and eighteen 
 feet at low-water spring-tides; then a close or inner basin of ten acres, 
 which has a depth of twenty-nine feet over the sill at high-water 
 spring-tides, and twenty-five feet at high-water neap-tides ; and a long 
 quay or dock extension, some fourteen hundred feet in extent, with 
 a depth of water of twenty feet at low spring-tides, included within 
 which is the Empress Dock of eighteen acres, which was inaugurated 
 by Her Majesty on July 26, 1892."
 
 SOUTHAMPTON AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 239 
 
 Says William Winter in his " Old Shrines and Ivy : " 
 " Many days might be pleasantly spent in Southampton and its 
 stoned neighbourhood. You are at the mouth of the Itchen, the 
 river of Izaak Walton, who lived and died at venerable Winchester 
 
 only a few miles away. 
 Netley Abbey is close by. 
 On every side, indeed, 
 there is something to 
 stimulate the fancy and 
 to awaken remembrance 
 of historic lore. King 
 John's house is extant 
 in Blue Anchor Lane. 
 King John's charter may 
 be seen in the Audit 
 House. The Bridewell 
 Gate still stands, that was 
 built by Henry VIII., and 
 in Bugle Street is the 
 Spanish prison that was 
 used in the time of Queen 
 Anne. At the foot of the 
 High Street stood King 
 Canute's palace ; and 
 upon the neighbouring 
 beach the monarch spoke 
 his vain command to stay 
 the advancing waves, and 
 made his memorable sub- 
 mission to the Power that is greater than kings. In St. Michael's 
 Square they show you an ancient red-tiled house, made of timber 
 and brick, in which Anne Boleyn once lived, with her royal lord 
 
 CANUTE'S PALACE.
 
 240 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 PALACE OF HENRY VIII. 
 
 Henry VIII., and which bears her name to this day. It is a 
 two-story building, surmounted with four large gables, the front 
 curiously diversified with a crescent pent and with four great diamond- 
 latticed casements. ... A few steps from St. Michael's will bring you 
 to a relic of a different kind, fraught with widely different associations, 
 - the birthplace of the pious poet Isaac Watts. The house stands in 
 French Street, a little back from the sidewalk, on the east side." 
 
 And again, in the same volume, reading the following paragraph 
 led me recently to go to the grave of the comedian and study the old 
 legends, 
 
 " Artemus Ward died in Southampton; Edward Sothern is 
 buried there. It seems but yesterday since those lords of frolic were 
 my companions ; but the grass has long been growing over them, and 
 even the echo of their laughter has died away. Historic association
 
 SOUTHAMPTON AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 241 
 
 dignifies a place ; but it is the personal association that makes it 
 familiar. From Southampton the Pilgrim Fathers, nearly three hun- 
 dred years ago, sailed away to found another England in the Western 
 wild. Innumerable legends of that kind haunt the town and hallow 
 it. Yet to one dreamer its name will ever, first of all, bring back 
 the slumberous whisper of leaves that ripple in a summer wind and 
 the balm of flowers that breathe their blessing on a comrade's rest." 
 
 Netley Abbey, near Southampton, a few miles across the ferry, is 
 one of the most picturesque ruins in all England. In the New Forest, 
 which may be reached in a half hour by rail, or in a little longer time 
 by char-a-banc, may be seen the Rufus Stone, which bears the 
 following inscription : 
 
 " Here stood the oak-tree on which an arrow, shot by Sir Walter Tyrrell 
 at a stag, glanced and struck King William the Second, surnamed Rufus, on the 
 breast, of which he instantly died, on the second day of August, Anno noo." 
 
 " King William the Second, surnamed Rufus, being slain as before related, 
 was laid in a cart belonging to one Purkis, and drawn from thence to Win- 
 chester, and buried in the Cathedral Church of that City." 
 
 " That the spot where an event so memorable had happened might not 
 hereafter be forgotten, this stone was set up by John Lord Delaware, who had 
 seen the tree growing in this place, Anno 1745." 
 
 Says Buxey's " Southampton : " 
 
 " No visitor to Southampton should fail to make a journey to the 
 New Forest. This may be effected by the ordinary train service to 
 Lyndhurst Road Station, or by a drive by road, and if the latter 
 mode of travel is selected, nothing could be more enjoyable than 
 going by char-a-banc. 
 
 " The scenery of the New Forest is most diversified, varying as 
 it does from wide-reaching oak and beech woods to the bare and 
 rugged heaths; and whilst from its highest situations, such as Stoney 
 Cross and Ocknell Plain, splendid panoramic views break upon the 
 
 scene, there is also a charm that cannot fail to please, to be found 
 
 16
 
 242 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 in its silent sylvan glades and other sequestered spots. Lyndhurst, 
 the little capital of the New Forest, is ten miles from Southampton, and, 
 apart from the natural beauty of its surroundings, it contains several 
 interesting attractions. Of these the famous fresco in the chancel 
 of the church, illustrative of the Parable of the Ten Virgins, by Sir 
 F. Leighton, P. R. A., claims leading attention. The Queen's House 
 is where the whole of the business in connection with the control of 
 the Forest is conducted. In what is known as the Verderers' Hall, 
 a curious and ancient stirrup is hung, and which was, probably, the 
 origin of a stirrup being adopted as the badge of the New Forest. 
 There are many charming seats around Lyndhurst, whilst visitors 
 will find ample accommodation for their reception. 
 
 " One of the most frequented spots in the Forest is Rufus's Stone, 
 near Castle Malwood. Almost every day during the summer picnic par- 
 ties, and other kinds of pleasure-seekers, visit the spot. For the more 
 truly forest scenery, Boldrewood is probably the most popular, and it can 
 be reached by conveyance. It would be impossible, however, in a 
 brief notice of the New Forest to do full justice to its well-nigh 
 unrivalled charms, or to mention the many interesting associations 
 in connection with its history which link the present with the past. 
 
 " The Crown Hotel, Lyndhurst, situate immediately opposite the 
 church, affords first-class accommodation for visitors, whilst hunters and 
 all kinds of vehicles can be hired at the commodious stables adjoining." 
 
 Says the same work of Netley Abbey : 
 
 " The ruins of this ancient Abbey are a source of great pleasure 
 and interest to the antiquary and the visitor generally. The scenery 
 surrounding the remains of the Abbey is most picturesque and varied. 
 These ruins are said to be among the best of the kind extant. They 
 stand a very short distance back from the road, and are about a 
 mile from Netley Station. Some doubt exists as to the actual 
 founding of the Abbey, which was known in its earliest days as ' The 
 Abbey of St. Edward of Letley.' In 1239 its endowment by Roger de
 
 SOUTHAMPTON AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 243 
 
 Clere was confirmed by Henry III., who two years previously founded 
 the Priory of St. Mary and St. Edward, and the Abbey appears to have 
 become a colony of the Cistercians from Beaulieu Abbey. It is 
 believed the last abbot was Thomas Stevens (1527), who signed, by 
 proxy, the instrument divorcing Catherine of Arragon from Henry 
 VIII. The dimensions of the church originally were 211 feet by 81 
 feet, and the transept was 128 feet long. The present ruins include 
 the transept and presbytery, and on the east side of the quadrangle 
 (114 feet square) the sacristy, the vestibule of the chapter-house, and 
 the common-house. The Early English door is at the south side. 
 At the west side was the porter's house ; this has now been restored 
 and made into comfortable apartments for the caretaker. The quad- 
 rangle was known as the ' Fountain Court,' on account of its having 
 a fountain in the centre. On three sides of this court are cloisters. 
 Many of the narrow windows about the building are in an excellent 
 state of preservation." 
 
 And of Winchester, which may be reached through one of the 
 most majestic avenues of ancient trees in historic England : 
 
 " From its ancient connections and associations the city of Win- 
 chester is undoubtedly one of the most interesting places in the 
 County of Hants. It is rich in antiquities, and is stated to have been 
 founded by a British King (Sudor Rons Hudibrass) in 892 B.C., and 
 that its walls were built in 500 B. c. by Dunwallo Mulmutius. The 
 city has a mayor and corporation, and is also the meeting-place of 
 the Divisional County Magistrates. The Assizes and Quarter Ses- 
 sions for the county are also held here. The chief object of interest 
 is the Cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul and the Holy 
 Trinity; the choir is especially dedicated to St. Swithin. It was 
 commenced in 1069, and consecrated in 1093. The first tower fell 
 soon after its erection ; and the present one, of Norman architecture, 
 was erected in the twelfth century. Various other reconstructions 
 have from time to time taken place. The cathedral contains many
 
 244 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 interesting memorials, amongst these being a recumbent figure of 
 Bishop Wykeham in his Episcopal robes. It is also proposed to 
 add a similar figure of the late Bishop Harold Browne. Under the 
 tower is the reputed tomb of William Rufus, whose body was brought 
 to the city from the New Forest. In the south transept is the tomb 
 of the late Bishop Wilberforce. Izaak Walton was buried in Prior 
 Silkstede's chapel, and here is a black marble monument to his 
 memory. In addition to these the remains of several Saxon kings 
 have been interred here." 
 
 Charlotte Mary Yonge, the famous author of the " Heir of 
 Redclyffe," and many popular stories and histories, lives near Win- 
 chester, at Otterborne. The country home of England seems buried 
 in trees, evergreens, and ivies in all these regions of the great forests 
 b}' the seas. 
 
 SOUTHAMPTON WATER. 
 
 Written while waiting for the steamer " New York," at Southampton, in view of the 
 harbour out of which the " Mayflower " sailed. 
 
 SOUTHAMPTON WATER, on whose havened breast 
 
 A thousand ships for twice a thousand years 
 Have fate fulfilled, one sailed towards the West, 
 
 I love to wander on thy quays and piers. 
 
 I love along the Canute road to roam 
 
 In airs of balm, when sounds of traffic cease, 
 
 And meet the silent wanderers far from home 
 Who chance to pass in England's port of peace, 
 
 Amid the ivied walls and broken towers, 
 
 The coming ship that bears me home to wait, 
 
 And glance to see in uneventful hours 
 The signal flag rise o'er the Consulate.
 
 SOUTHAMPTON AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 245 
 
 In mellowing splendours lifts the sun, and falls 
 
 O'er listless oaks and lime-trees lines of gloom, 
 As when the Henrys, in manorial hall, 
 
 Beheld their idle fleets from latticed rooms. 
 
 I pass beneath the grand arch framed alone, 
 
 Where toward Agincourt moved the English spears, 
 
 With pealing trumpets wild and wilder blown 
 By Red Crossed Knights and sable cavaliers. 
 
 Or hie away to hapless Pollock's tomb 
 
 Forgotten poet ! to past years endeared 
 Or pause awhile where latest fall flowers bloom 
 
 Beside the stone to Sothern's genius reared. 
 
 No suave lutes play, no harps Provenal tune 
 
 Beneath the Norman castles' ivied brow ; 
 Far Netley Abbey rims the rising morn, 
 
 And Canute's Palace is a stable now. 
 
 Here Bluff King Hal his stolen consort brought 
 
 To yonder lattice, and, mid echoing horns, 
 Swept outward gaily with his glittering court 
 
 To fair New Forest, in the purple morns. 
 
 Here, ships go out, and ships return again, 
 
 And fond hearts wait to welcome or regret, 
 And commerce spoils the Manor of Brittaine, 
 
 Arundel's Tower, and Halls Plantagenet. 
 
 Here, Time's first fleets swept inward from the gales, 
 
 And later sails that Cornwall's treasure sought ; 
 In soft airs near once blew the silken sails 
 
 By Queen Matilda for the Conqueror wrought. 
 
 O storied Canute, here a record tells 
 
 'T was on this strand thou orderedst back the sea ; 
 
 The traveller reads it, and his memory dwells 
 Long on that tale of life's deep mystery.
 
 246 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Southampton Water, on thy tides have sailed 
 What Northern galleys, Roman argosies ! 
 
 What forms have here returning navies hailed 
 On shouting esplanades and quivering quays ! 
 
 But of all ships that ever sunk thy shore, 
 History records as bravest, noblest, best, 
 
 The venturous " Mayflower" that the Pilgrims bore, 
 To found the empires of the mighty West ! 
 
 O Canute ! Canute ! to the Holy Rood ! 
 
 Who gave thy crown the will of God to bear ; 
 Because the sea was heedless to thy word, 
 
 Without the law, man's will is empty air ! 
 
 O Canute ! Canute ! though the sea reproved 
 Thy kingly words upon thy settled throne, 
 
 Before the Pilgrims' sail it backward moved, 
 And bowed the skies their destiny to own. 
 
 Back rolled the ocean, upward rose the cloud, 
 As walked that ship along the deep sea's crest ; 
 
 And new life breathed in ever swelling shroud, 
 And changed the Eastern empire to the West. 
 
 But, lo, the flag is on the Consulate, 
 A kindred flag is lifting on the main, 
 
 " All hail New York ! " Shout on ! to me who wait, 
 T is but the Mayflower coming back again. 
 
 HEROINES OF THE SEA. 
 
 BIOGRAPHY records the heroic deeds of a number of women who have 
 imperilled their lives to rescue persons who were drowning. Among the most 
 notable of these women are Miss Eden, maid of honour to Adelaide, queen of 
 William IV. of Great Britain (1792-1849), and Grace Darling, the heroine oi 
 the Fame Islands, Northumberland coast, England. 
 
 The Hon. Miss Eden nearly lost her life in a truly noble exertion. She 
 was one day walking in the palace garden at Hampton Court, when a little boy
 
 HEROINES OF THE SEA. 247 
 
 five or six years of age, the son of a labourer, fell into the Thames. He was 
 immediately borne from the shore by the current, but floated upon the surface, 
 crying in terror. 
 
 Miss Eden threw herself into the stream, and followed the child until she 
 reached a point beyond her depth, when she was drawn beneath the surface, 
 and nearly perished. 
 
 She at length, however, regained her footing, and gave an alarm to a ferry- 
 man, who rescued the boy, though not in time to save his life. The rank of 
 the lady made the act, which was in itself in the highest degree heroic, widely 
 known. 
 
 Grace Darling, by a single act of heroism, won the love of the world. The 
 following are the most interesting particulars of her history: 
 
 Her father was the keeper of a lighthouse on one of the most exposed of 
 the Fame Islands. One wild, boisterous morning, Sept. 7, 1838, during the 
 abatement of a storm, the Darlings discovered a wreck, at the distance of a 
 mile from the lighthouse. The morning twilight deepened, partly dissipating 
 the fog, and, by the aid of a glass, they discerned forms of human beings cling- 
 ing to the rocks and to the fragments of the wreck. 
 
 The tide among the Fame Islands runs strongly, even in the calmest 
 weather, especially among the outermost group, " pouring and roaring in rag- 
 ing whiteness," as one describes the appearance of the sea at that place. 
 
 On the morning of the wreck, the waters were unusually rough, even for 
 the stormy coast of Northumberland, the breakers dashing against the rocks 
 with great violence, impelled by a cold northern wind. 
 
 Captain Darling, the keeper of the light, decided that it would be impossible 
 to rescue the sufferers ; that a returning tide would shortly baffle any attempt 
 to pass between the islands ; and that for one to set out in a boat in the direc- 
 tion of the wreck, would insure almost certain destruction. His daughter 
 Grace, a delicate, sensitive girl of twenty-one summers, looked out on the scene 
 of suffering with a heart overflowing with emotion. 
 
 " Launch the boat," she said, with decision. " I will attempt the rescue, 
 father, whatever be the peril or the consequence. Launch the boat. I will 
 use one oar, will you not take the other? " 
 
 Captain Darling hesitated. Scenes of hardship and suffering had some- 
 what abated the force of his sympathetic feelings, and life was more dear to 
 him than to the susceptible girl by his side. 
 
 But he launched the boat, and the two made their way among the perilous 
 rocks, the sea roaring and rushing beneath them, and the storm-birds screaming 
 above.
 
 248 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 She rescued the survivors of the wreck, nine in number, and brought them 
 safely over the rapids to her island home. The steamer had fifty-three persons 
 on board at the time of the disaster, of whom thirty-eight perished. 
 
 The deed made the name of the heroic girl a household word throughout 
 Europe, and caused the lonely lighthouse, on the desolate island, to become 
 one of the most noted places on that rugged coast. 
 
 A public subscription was raised for Grace Darling, which amounted to 
 seven hundred pounds. She died Oct. 20, 1842, at the age of twenty-seven. 
 Her body was followed to the grave by a great concourse of people, four emi- 
 nent gentlemen bearing the pall. Like all truly noble natures, she was simple 
 and unaffected in appearance, and shrank from publicity and applause. 
 
 The name of Ida Lewis, of the Lime Rock Lighthouse, Newport, R. I., is 
 as widely known as its associations are interesting. She has been called the 
 Grace Darling of America. In no single instance, perhaps, has she been ex- 
 posed to so great peril as was Grace Darling, but, at five different times, her 
 own hands have rescued the drowning. 
 
 The illustrated papers and the picture stores have made her likeness 
 familiar, and a number of sketches of her life have been published, of which 
 the best is a pamphlet autobiography by Brewerton, the artist. From this, 
 we gather the following facts concerning her life and rescues : 
 
 Idawalley Zorada Lewis, the eldest daughter of Captain Hosea Lewis, the 
 keeper of the Lime Rock Lighthouse, Newport Harbour, was born on the 25th 
 of February, 1842. Her early years were passed in the public schools of 
 Newport. 
 
 At the age of fifteen, she removed to Lime Rock, where her father kept 
 the light. Her father, having been stricken with paralysis, became an invalid, 
 and the care of the light and of the family fell upon the mother and the 
 daughter. 
 
 The former fed the light, performing the prescribed duties of keeper, while 
 the latter, " in storm or sunshine, beneath the September gale, the icy Decem- 
 ber blast, or the fervid sun of July," rowed to and fro, bringing supplies from 
 the town. In this way, her sister and her brothers were enabled to attend 
 school. In her passages across to Newport, she was oftentimes, according to 
 the account before us, " up to her knees in water, pulling sturdily, when old 
 boatmen looked askance upon the foaming billows, and shook their grizzled 
 heads over the temerity of the too daring girl." 
 
 "Again and again," said her father to Colonel Brewerton, " have I seen the 
 children from the window, as they were returning from school in some heavy
 
 GRACE DARLING.
 
 HEROINES OF THE SEA. 
 
 251 
 
 blow, when Ida alone was with them, when, old sailor that I am, I felt that I 
 would not give a penny for their lives ; and I have watched them till I could not 
 bear to look any longer, expecting every moment to see them swamped, and 
 at the mercy of the waves." 
 
 He added, " I have seen Ida, in bitter winter weather, obliged to cut off 
 her frozen stockings at the knees." 
 
 One day in the autumn of 1858, when Ida was in her seventeenth year, a 
 party of young gentlemen started on a pleasure trip between the Lime Rocks 
 and Fort Adams. After sailing awhile, one of the fellows mounted the mast, 
 in a frolicsome way, and rocked the boat to and fro, amusing himself at the 
 discomfort of the others. 
 
 The boat suddenly overset, and filled, the keel only remaining above water. 
 The young men were obliged to sustain themselves by swimming at the side 
 of the disabled boat. 
 
 They at length became benumbed with cold, and were on the point of 
 perishing. Miss Lewis discovered them in this perilous situation, and hastened 
 in her boat to the rescue. They were saved through her exertions, though 
 life in one of them had become nearly extinct. 
 
 About eight years from this time, in the month of February, 1866, a party 
 of intoxicated soldiers, in attempting to cross from the town to the Fort in a 
 skiff, sprung a plank, which cast them at once into the sea. Two of them were 
 never heard of again. One clung to the wreck of the skiff, in which situation 
 he was discovered at the Light. Miss Lewis immediately launched her boat 
 on the cold, winter waters, and, without any assistance, rescued the sufferer. 
 
 In the January following, Miss Lewis rescued a party of Irishmen, whose 
 boat had swamped amid the breakers. 
 
 It was a cold day. The wind was blowing heavily, and the disabled boat, 
 with the terrified men, was carried seaward. When one of the Irishmen dis- 
 covered that his rescuer was a woman, he thought that his prayers to Mary had 
 received a miraculous answer, and exclaimed, with wonderful elevation of 
 soul, 
 
 " O Holy Vargin ! have you come to save me? " 
 
 Miss Lewis next rescued a man whose boat had become wrecked on a 
 submerged rock. The accident happened in the night, during a northeast 
 wind. The boat settled upon the rock, leaving the man clinging to the rigging. 
 The tide coming in, soon dashed around his body, and destruction seemed at 
 hand, when, in the gray dawn of the winter's morning, the good angel of Lime 
 Rock came to his relief.
 
 252 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Her last rescue, in which she displayed a heroism only equalled by the 
 noble girl of the Fame Islands, is best known. 
 
 It took place on the evening of the 2Qth of March, 1869. It was a dark, 
 stormy nightfall, the sea lashing and roaring, and the wind smiting the harbour 
 with unwonted fury. 
 
 The lights of the town early glimmered through the fog, and the light on the 
 Lime Rocks, in the dark twilight, blazed upon the open sea. Mrs. Lewis, 
 while standing in the tower, supplying the fountain with oil, discovered a boat 
 overset, and men struggling in the water. 
 
 " Ida ! " she exclaimed, looking out on the wild bay, " O my God ! Ida, 
 a boat is overset, and men are drowning ! " 
 
 In a moment, Ida was gone, without shoes, or hat, or outer garment, for- 
 getful of herself, of the cold, the wind, the surges, and the storm. Her boat 
 soon tossed on the foaming waves like a very thing of air. 
 
 The wind beat against it, and the waves dashed over it, and the thick dark- 
 ness settled around it ; but it baffled the wind, and the waves, and the darkness, 
 and found its way to the scene of suffering. The rescued men, two in number, 
 were soldiers from the Fort. 
 
 They were on the point of perishing, when rescued, and one of them was 
 only removed from the boat by assistance, when they reached the Light. 
 
 The heroism of Miss Lewis has been widely recognised by the public, and 
 she has received, among many evidences of appreciation, the thanks of the 
 Legislature of Rhode Island, and the compliments of the President and of the 
 Vice-President of the United States. She also has been the recipient of many 
 valuable presents. 
 
 Should you visit Newport on some calm summer day, then, when you 
 have seen its natural wonders, its great hotels, its villas, and its antiquities, cast 
 your eye seaward, in the direction of the green slopes of the Fort, and behold 
 a spot, barren and rude, to which the tourist may look, when his love for the 
 beautiful has been gratified, and gain inspiration for a nobler and a more self- 
 sacrificing life. 
 
 From Southampton our travellers visited Windsor Castle, where 
 they saw the royal tombs of the Georges. Here they met an old 
 English historian, who, in the long oak-shaded walks of the Park, told 
 them
 
 THE STORY OF THE MAD KING. 
 
 THE STORY OF THE MAD KING. 
 
 253 
 
 WE are accustomed to find the name of George III. associated with the 
 word " tyrant " in the early history of our country. When the writer was a boy 
 he was taught that King George was a very bad man, and he looked upon him 
 as a Henry VIII. or James II. 
 
 The king made many stupid political mistakes, or left his ministry to make 
 them; but in his private life George III., a name in the days of our fathers 
 always spoken with hate, was one of the purest, kindest, and the best of 
 English kings. 
 
 His was a sad life, with all of its power and splendour. 
 
 Let me tell you some stories of it, and you will regret that so good and so 
 sorely afflicted a king should have been led to treat his American colonies 
 with injustice. 
 
 The discipline of insanity has refined many rough natures and quickened 
 many cold hearts that otherwise might have passed as misanthropes in the 
 world. Among these may fairly be classed George III. " Few princes," says 
 Lord Brougham, " have been more exemplary in their domestic habits or in 
 the offices of private friendship. But the instant his prerogative was concerned, 
 or his bigotry interfered with, or his will thwarted, the most bitter animosity, the 
 most calculating coldness of heart, took possession of his breast and swayed it 
 by turns." This disposition made him unpopular at times, and but for a cor- 
 recting providence the chastisement of his constantly threatening affliction - 
 might have lost him his throne. His frequent mental distresses made him 
 humble, and kept his heart open to the unfortunate and the poor. Like Lear, 
 he could look upon the meanest of his subjects, and say, 
 
 " Expose thyself to feel what wretches feel." 
 
 The king was first attacked by insanity in 1765, when he was twenty-seven 
 years old. It was in the spring-time. As is usual with the first manifestations 
 of disease of this kind, when constitutional, he soon recovered. 
 
 In the latter part of the autumn of 1788, the king appeared to be nervous 
 and restless, unsettled in mind, and apprehensive. He had often been low- 
 spirited in recent years, which had been attributed to the loss of his American 
 colonies. Returning from a long ride one bright October day, he hurried by, 
 entered his apartment with an anxious, distressed look upon his face, and, fling- 
 ing himself into a chair, burst into tears, exclaiming, " I am going to be mad, 
 and I wish to God I might die ! "
 
 254 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The sufferings of the king during the first apprehensive days of his malady 
 were painful to witness, and his conduct was most humiliating for the monarch 
 of a realm whose empire followed the sun. " He awoke," says one of Sheri- 
 dan's correspondents on one occasion, " with all the gestures and ravings of a 
 confirmed maniac, and a new noise in imitation of the howling of a dog." He 
 seemed tempted with suicidal thoughts, and required. constant watchfulness and 
 restraint. " This morning," says one, " he made an attempt to jump out of the 
 window, and is now very turbulent and incoherent." 
 
 The king grew worse during the last days of fall. On the 2Qth of Novem- 
 ber, he was removed to Kew, where he was to experience almost unspeakable 
 horrors. Here he grew worse, his disease became settled, and the sad particu- 
 lars of his conduct during the dreary months of December and January have, 
 perhaps with commendable prudence, been withheld from the public eye. 
 
 Distressing indeed must have been the spectacle presented by the English 
 monarch at this period of his incapacity; how distressing, a single anecdote 
 will show. During his convalescence some friends of the royal household were 
 passing through the palace accompanied by an equerry, when they observed 
 a strait-jacket lying in a chair. The equerry averted his look as a mark of 
 respect for the king. The latter, who had joined the company present, observed 
 the movement, and said, 
 
 " You need not be afraid to look at it. Perhaps it is the best friend I ever 
 had in my life." 
 
 The recovery of the king from his second attack thrilled the nation with 
 joy, and awakened a spirit of loyalty from sea to sea. London, on the night 
 following the day on which the king resumed his functions, was a blaze of light 
 from the palaces of the West End to the humblest huts in the suburbs. But 
 the great illumination was a rising splendour, which only had its beginning here; 
 it flashed like a spontaneous joy over all the cities of the realm. Gala days 
 followed gala days, the nights were festive ; the release of the king from his 
 mental bondage seemed to lighten all hearts. On the 23d of April, the royal 
 family went to the old cathedral of St. Paul's in solemn state to return thanks 
 to God. It was an imposing procession. The bells rung out, the boom of the 
 cannon echoed through the mellowing air, and light strains of music rose 
 on every hand. As the king entered the cathedral between the bishops of 
 London and Lincoln, the voices of five thousand children burst forth in grand 
 chorus, " God save the king! " 
 
 At the sound of the jubilant strain, the king's emotions overcame him. 
 He covered his face and wept.
 
 THE STORY OF THE MAD KING. 
 
 255 
 
 " I do now feel that I have been ill," he said to the Bishop of London, as 
 soon as he could restrain his tears. 
 
 The joy of the nation was sincere. As delightful to the king must have 
 been the days that followed, when he set forth with the queen and a part of the 
 royal family for a long tour to the west of England. The roads were lined with 
 people and spanned with arches of flowers ; girls crowned with wreaths strewed 
 flowers in the streets of the villages through which he passed ; bells were rung, 
 the bands were out, all was festivity from London to Weymouth. Wide must 
 have been the contrast between this new freedom and good Dr. Willis's strait- 
 jacket. 
 
 Weymouth at this time possessed rare charms for the king. Unvexed by 
 ministerial disputes and the cares of state, free from the last shadow of the clouds 
 that had darkened his mind, with a humble heart, feeling that he was after all 
 but a dependent man among weak and dependent men, he joined the peasants 
 in their sports; he caressed their children; he gave pious advice to old women, 
 and wholesome counsel to ambitious lads and buxom lassies; he wandered 
 through the hay-fields with the mowers, and was rocked by the common sailors 
 on the foamy waters of Portland Roads. His intercourse with the peasantry 
 at this period gave him a popularity that he never outlived. 
 
 The familiarity of notable monarchs with their poorer and meaner subjects 
 has ever been an engaging theme with the historian and the poet. Thus we 
 have the child-charming stories of Henry VIII. and the miller of Dee; of King 
 John and the abbot ; of Edward IV. and the tanner ; of Philip of Burgundy 
 and the tinker, which, with some shifting of scenes, is told in the Induction to 
 Shakespeare's Taming of the Shrew. About few monarchs have so many 
 pleasing anecdotes of this kind been related as about George III. This humility 
 was a result of his great afflictions, and a most fortunate one for his popularity, 
 since in the eyes of the people his charity covered a multitude of political 
 errors. 
 
 After the first beating of the storm of affliction upon his own head, he had a 
 sensitiveness that would never allow him to witness a scene of suffering without 
 emotion, however humble might be the condition of the sufferer. A volume of 
 anecdotes might be collected to illustrate this gentleness of character when 
 want or woe was presented directly before him. He was walking one day, 
 during the hard winter of 1785, unbending his mind from the cares of state, 
 when he chanced to meet two little boys, who, not knowing whom they were 
 addressing, fell upon their knees in the snow, and, wringing their hands, said, 
 
 " Help us ! We are hungry ; we have nothing to eat." 
 
 Their pinched faces were wet with tears.
 
 256 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " Get up," said the king. " Where do you live? " 
 
 " Our mother is dead ; and our father lies sick ; and we have no money, 
 food, or fire." 
 
 " Go home," said the king, " and I will follow you." 
 
 They at last reached a wretched hovel, where the king found the mother 
 dead, having perished for the want of the necessities of life, and the wretched 
 father ready to perish, but still encircling with his bony arm the deceased part- 
 ner of his woes. The king's eye moistened, and he hurried back to the Queen's 
 Lodge, and related to the queen what he had seen. He not only immediately 
 relieved the present necessities of the family, but gave orders that the boys 
 should be supported and educated from the royal bounty. 
 
 George III. was fond of children. All crazy people are, in their better 
 moods. Walking one day near Windsor, he met a stable boy, and asked, 
 
 " Well, boy, what do you do, and what do they pay you ? " 
 
 " I help in the stable, sir ; but they only give me my victuals and clothes." 
 
 " Be content," said the king, in a philosophical mood ; " / can have 
 nothing more." 
 
 He was accustomed to refer to " the loss of my American colonies " with 
 sadness ; but we do not know that he ever condemned the policy of his advisers. 
 Lord Bute, Grenville, and Lord North. 
 
 The king surpassed all other monarchs in the whimsical play of " good 
 Haroun-al-Rashid." He loved nothing better than to meet his poorer and 
 meaner subjects incognito, and learn their good opinion of him. He once 
 played the part of Saxon Alfred as well as that of the Persian caliph, and 
 turned a piece of meat in a cottage. When the old woman returned, what was 
 her delight at finding a royal note, with an inclosure. It ran, " Five guineas to 
 buy a jack." 
 
 Among the statesmen of his reign favourable to the American cause were 
 Fox, Pitt, and Burke. The Earl of Chatham was a friend to America until 
 France espoused the cause of the colonies. He fell dead while speaking on 
 the American question. 
 
 Age as well as trouble at last battered the strong form of the king, and his 
 life became more Lear-like as the twilight shadows began to fall. His sym- 
 pathies seemed to take a wider range, and his charity to gather new sweetness, 
 as the evening of age came on. In 1786, a poor insane woman, named Mar- 
 garet Nicholson, attempted to assassinate him as he was in the act of stepping 
 from his carriage. The king, on finding that she was insane, remembered his 
 own frailty, spoke of her with great pity, and tried to disarm the popular preju- 
 dice against her. In 1790, John Frith, an insane man, attempted the king's life,
 
 GEORGE III.
 
 THE STORY OF THE MAD KING. 259 
 
 and another lunatic shot at him in 1800, for each of whom the king was moved 
 to extreme pity when he understood the nature of their malady. 
 
 George III. had fifteen children. His favourite was the Princess Amelia. 
 In her early days she was a gay, light-hearted, girl ; but as she grew older she 
 became affectionate and reflective, yielding to the deeper sentiments of her 
 emotional nature, and making herself the companion of the king in his decline. 
 She once told her experience in life in two fair stanzas, that have been 
 preserved : 
 
 " Unthinking, idle, wild, and young, 
 
 I laughed and danced and talked and sung, 
 
 And, proud of health, of freedom vain, 
 
 Dreamed not of sorrow, care, or pain, 
 
 Concluding in those hours of glee, 
 
 That all the world was made for me. 
 
 " But when the hour of trial came, 
 When sickness shook this trembling frame, 
 When folly's gay pursuits were o'er, 
 And I could sing and dance no more, 
 It then occurred how sad 't would be 
 Were this world only made for me." 
 
 In 1810, she was attacked with a lingering and fatal illness. Her sufferings 
 at times were heart-rending to witness; but her sublime confidence in God kept 
 her mind serene, and brought the sweetest anticipations of another and a better 
 world. 
 
 The old king lingered by her bedside, her affectionate watcher and nurse. 
 They talked together daily of Christ, of redemption, and of the joys of heaven. 
 " The only hope of the sinner is in the blood and righteousness of Jesus Christ. 
 Do you feel this hope, my daughter? Does it sustain you ? " 
 
 " Nothing," says an English clergyman who witnessed these interviews, 
 " can be more striking than the sight of the king, aged and nearly blind, bend- 
 ing over the couch on which the princess lies, and speaking to her of salvation 
 through Christ as a matter far more interesting than the most magnificent 
 pomps of royalty." 
 
 As she grew weaker, he caused the physicians to make a statement of her 
 condition every hour. When he found her sinking, the old dejection and 
 gloom began to overcast his mind again. He felt, like Lear, that he had one 
 true heart to love him for himself alone. This love was more precious to him 
 than crowns and thrones. The world offered nothing to him so sweet as her 
 affection. She was his Cordelia. One gloomy day a messenger came to the
 
 26O ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 king's room to announce that Amelia had breathed her last. It was too 
 much for the king; reason began to waver and soon took its flight. "This 
 was caused by poor Amelia," he was heard saying, as the shadows deepened 
 and the dreary winter of age came stealing on. 
 
 " Thou 'It come no more, 
 Never, never, never, never, never !" 
 
 This was in 1810. The remaining ten years of his life were passed, with 
 the exception of a few brief intervals, in the long night of mindlessness, and 
 the last eight years were still more deeply shadowed by the loss of sight. 
 In May, 1811, he appeared once outside of the castle of Windsor, and hence- 
 forth the people saw him no more. Thackeray represents him as withdrawn 
 from all eyes but those that watched his necessities, in silence and in dark- 
 ness, crownless, throneless, sceptreless ; there was for him neither sun, moon, 
 nor stars, empire, wife, nor child. The seasons came and went, the spring- 
 time lighted up the hills and autumn withered the leaves, the summer sun- 
 shine dreamed in the flowers and the snows of winter fell; battles were 
 fought ; Waterloo changed the front of the political world ; Napoleon fell ; 
 the nation was filled with festive rejoicings over the battles of Vittoria, the 
 Pyrenees, and Toulouse, but he was oblivious of all. His sister died ; his 
 beloved queen died; his son, the Duke of Kent, died, but he knew it not. 
 He was often confined in a padded room; his beard grew long; he seemed 
 like a full personification of the character of Lear. Once he was heard repeat- 
 ing to himself the sad lines of Samson Agonistes, 
 
 " Oh, dark, dark, daik ! Amid the blaze of noon, 
 Irrevocably dark ! Total eclipse, 
 Without all hope of day ! " 
 
 Some incidents of this period are very touching. One day, while his 
 attendants were leading him along one of the passages of the castle, he heard 
 some one draw quickly aside. "Who is there?" asked the king. 
 
 He was answered in a well-known voice. 
 
 " I am now blind," said the king. 
 
 " I am very sorry, please your Majesty." 
 
 " But," continued the king, " I am quite resigned ; for what have we to 
 do in this world but to suffer as well as to perform the will of the Almighty? " 
 
 Music seemed to collect his thoughts and soothe his feelings ; and the 
 piano and harpischord were his favourite instruments. In 1811, he, for the 
 last time, made the selection of pieces for a grand sacred concert. It com- 
 prised Handel's famous passages descriptive of madness and blindness, the
 
 THE STORY OF THE MAD KING. 26 1 
 
 lamentation of Jephthah on the loss of his daughter, and the list ended with 
 " God save the King." The performance of the last moistened all eyes, after 
 what had gone before. 
 
 Thus passed the last ten years of the monarch's life, in a gradual decline, 
 amid an obscurity lighted by occasional gleams of reason, and always full of 
 the keenest pathos; until, in 1820, the great bell of St. Paul's announced his 
 final release. 
 
 The popularity of George III. in England was largely due to his humble 
 piety, and to his familiarity with his poorer and meaner subjects. Each of 
 these characteristics was the result, 'in a measure, of his mental misfortunes. 
 It was because the king never dared to forget that he was a man, that the 
 people always loved to remember that he was a king. 
 
 Our travellers went from Southampton to Lisbon ; and while the 
 ship stopped at that port they made an excursion into Spain, a 
 country that we have already described in another volume. Harold 
 here saw that, with all of his economy, he could not go to South 
 America and return on five hundred dollars, unless he took an 
 unusual course. One of the stewards of the ship had fallen ill at 
 Lisbon, and was sent to the quarantine. Harold applied for his 
 place, which was granted him. He would now go to the Argen- 
 tine Republic free. The voyage lasted some three weeks. The 
 evenings were passed by the passengers in games and stories. It was 
 a beautiful voyage over a calm sea, with sunny skies by day, and low 
 hanging stars by night.
 
 CAYENNE. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE COAST OF THE DISCOVERY. 
 
 HE coast of the discovery of the American continent 
 by Vespucci includes Guiana and Brazil. Trinidad, 
 or the port of Spain, was long the principal com- 
 mercial city of this region. Guiana is a general 
 name for this part of equatorial America between 
 the Orinoco and the Amazon. Guiana was divided 
 between four nations, Portugal, France, Holland, and England. The 
 beauty of its climate and vegetation once caused it to be regarded 
 as a kind of earthly paradise ; but its influence has declined, and the 
 Oriental kind of view of it has not been fulfilled. 
 
 The capital of French Guiana is Cayenne, a name familiar as 
 given to a kind of pepper. It was settled by political offenders. 
 When France lost Canada she made an effort to make the loss 
 good by planting colonies in this part of South America. 
 
 Cayenne is situated in a wilderness of shrubs, orange-groves, and 
 every kind of tropical vegetation. The climate which causes the
 
 THE COAST OF THE DISCOVERY. 263 
 
 earth to pour forth fruit and flowers is not altogether healthy. 
 A hammock in the shade is one of the luxuries of the place. 
 
 The Jesuit mission-houses in an orange-grove are simple but 
 picturesque. 
 
 The roads near the place are wonders in their high walls of trees 
 and tropical vegetation. The country is full of waterfalls; cotton, 
 indigo, and coffee abound, and the pineapple groves or gardens are 
 here the finest in the world. In the woods, mahogany, violet-wood, 
 satin-wood, and rosewood are as common as oaks and pines in our 
 own land. 
 
 The Rio Negro, lying south of Guiana, is twelve hundred miles 
 in length. Its waters are often black, and the stream is shadowed 
 by wonderful vegetation. Here the sun blazes ; bright birds fill the 
 trees ; the sky is a living splendour, and the air is song. But these 
 regions are malarious and unhealthy. Beauty, as it were, poisons 
 the air. 
 
 The shores of Brazil abound with gigantic trees, strange ferns 
 and palms, especially where rivers come flowing out of the far virgin 
 forests into the sea. 
 
 Genoa is called the "Superb" when seen from the sea. Rio 
 Janeiro, the Brazilian capital, is also superb when seen from the deck 
 of an approaching vessel. Great rocks rise right and left like a 
 gateway. Entering the portal, the harbour lies before us like a lake. 
 Around us are islands of flowers, and in the distance palmy heights. 
 
 The houses and churches are white ; the water, blue ; the hills 
 green ; the avenues are cooled by mangoes, rose-apples, and rose-trees. 
 The botanic garden, with its Avenue of Palms, is famous for its 
 beauty. The tall columns of trees, with their graceful and feathery 
 heads, recall the temples of the Asiatic world. The Paseo Publico, 
 as a park-like road or avenue is called, is very lovely in the evening, 
 when the Southern Cross is in the sky, and the stars burn low, and 
 fireflies dance in the air.
 
 264 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The Amazon is the monarch of rivers. Its forests are vast and 
 luxuriant, and the ancient trees are draped with plants and parasites. 
 The flowers are the most beautiful in all the world. Here are the 
 flaming orchids; here grow the cinchona and the india-rubber-tree. 
 Here, in wonderful gardens and on stall-like farms, are cultivated 
 coffees, sugar-cane, cotton, cacao, rice, tobacco, maize, oranges, gums, 
 figs, bananas, and nearly all the luscious fruits of the world. Here 
 India itself is recalled. The coast-lands are unhealthy, but the 
 plateaux are salubrious ; what must these uplifted regions some day 
 become in the new experiences of the world? 
 
 December, January, and February are summer here ; June, July, and 
 August are cool. 
 
 Here is the paradise of birds. The affectionate blue-fronted 
 parrot abounds here, the loveliest creature in all the world. 
 These birds learn to talk like children, and they love and hate with 
 almost human intensity. 
 
 Here are found a thousand species of butterflies ; here, humming- 
 birds that are very jewels of the air. Sloths are here, monkeys 
 in nations, peccaries, coral snakes, anacondas, and pythons, great 
 owls, toucans, and cockatoos. 
 
 In Brazil, there is a million or more wandering Indians. Here 
 is a field for teachers. These tribes have possibilities. What may 
 such possibilities unfold ? In view of what Mexico and Japan have 
 done in the last twenty years in overcoming traditional prejudices, 
 and rising to the new opportunities of Western education, what may 
 not the original inhabitants of South America yet become ? 
 
 In education, Brazil is leading the way to new destinies. The 
 tablelands of the Andes will, in some future age, be glorious not only 
 with the most beautiful products of Nature, but with all the arts of 
 progress and peace. 
 
 The journey over the Andes is one of the most delightful in all 
 the world.
 
 ROAD NEAR CAYENNE.
 
 THE COAST OF THE DISCOVERY. 
 
 267 
 
 FALLS OF THE RIO NEGRO. 
 
 There are few scenes on earth more uplifting to the soul than the 
 sight of the summits of the Andes, lining the cerulean azure, and 
 towering in the sun. 
 
 The Argentine Republic is in part becoming Germanised ; 
 Northern Europe seems destined to supplant the Spanish race in 
 some of the finest districts of southern South America; German 
 commerce, railroads, and centres of trade are making their influence 
 felt in the most promising parts of these republics of the sun. The 
 Argentine Republic is a network of railways ; and, sweeping away 
 from Buenos Ayres, the Paris or Berlin of South America, we cross 
 the open plains, and come to Mendoza, at the foot of the gleaming 
 Andes. The mountain-walls bar the west; the peaks pierce the 
 sky ; everything in Nature becomes solemn and picturesque, the 
 morning sunrise is a glory transfiguring the uplifted earth, and the 
 sunset is a glory never to be forgotten.
 
 268 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 From the town of Mendoza, the grand army of liberation went up 
 the Andes. San Martin, the liberator, led it. Of the 9000 mules 
 laden with equipments, nearly half died in the rare air ; but the army 
 went on. The battle of Maipo crowned it with victory. 
 
 MOUTH OF THE SAGNASSON. 
 
 San Martin was one of the most glorious of the leaders of South 
 American liberty. There have been few spirits more noble in all the 
 world's history; his biography reads like a leaf from Plutarch. 
 
 Like Lafayette, he consecrated his sword to liberty. 
 
 He achieved the independence of Argentina. 
 
 The new republic offered him the supreme place in her army, 
 and military rule.
 
 AVENUE OF PALMS.
 
 THE COAST OF THE DISCOVERY. 
 
 271 
 
 " No," said San Martin, " I did not fight for glory." 
 
 Chili offered him ten thousand ounces of gold. 
 
 " No," said San Martin, " I did not fight for emolument." He 
 gave the gold to the library of Santiago. 
 
 He achieved the independence of Peru. The old Incarial Empire 
 offered him the supreme office of state. 
 
 His answer was sublime. 
 
 " The presence of a fortunate general in the land where he has 
 conquered, is detrimental to the state. I have won the independence 
 
 of Peru. I have ceased to 
 be a public man." 
 
 Taking his lovely daugta 
 ter Mercedes, and only 
 about three thousand dol- 
 lars in gold, he sailed for 
 Europe ; and there, in the 
 interests of the peace of his 
 country, he lived in volun- 
 tary exile, and died in pov- 
 erty. 
 
 Some years after his death, 
 his body was brought back 
 to Buenos Ayres to receive, 
 as it were, a coronation. His 
 funeral was one of the great 
 events of South America. 
 He was entombed amid 
 marble allegories ; and his 
 tomb will forever be a 
 shrine. One of the first 
 visits that the historic 
 pilgrim makes in Buenos Ayres is to this noble mausoleum. 
 
 "THE PEAKS PIERCE THE SKY."
 
 272 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " Thou must be that which thou oughtest to be, or else thou shalt 
 be nothing," was the motto of San Martin. He saved his life by 
 losing it, and he must ever rise higher and higher in the temple of the 
 immortals. 
 
 One lingers at Mendoza in the shadows of the high Andes. It 
 is still and beautiful there. The streets are broad and overarched 
 with trees. The Calk (street) General San Martin recalls the great 
 deeds of the liberator. 
 
 The old way to cross over the Andes from Mendoza to Santiago 
 de Chili was by mule-back in summer-time, January, February 
 all the seasons are here reversed. Half-a-dozen mules, one of which 
 was a bell-mule, under the direction of a arriero or muleteer, with 
 servants, were the means of conveyance. Now the railway is so 
 nearly completed that rail and coach, or diligence, are making the 
 stupendous journey easy. The mules, high-cushioned saddles, and 
 big spurs will soon disappear from the old route ; the engine whistle 
 is already blowing. The brush-roofed houses of shelter are giving 
 place to stations. And it is Germany and England, and not Spain, 
 that leads the procession of the travellers who thus ascend the heavens 
 amid giant mountain-walls, foaming cascades, and desert wastes, and 
 peaks gleaming over peaks in whose crystals the sun gleams like the 
 light in the fire-opals. The Argentine side of the Cordilleras is like a 
 Titan's highway, solemn, awe-inspiring, oppressive in its grandeur. 
 The Chilian side is a paradise of trees and flowers, among which cool 
 rivers run, and over which shine the frozen rainbows of eternal snows. 
 
 Santiago de Chili, one of the most beautiful of the world's cities, 
 is situated at the foot of the grand Cordilleras. In less than four 
 hours, by an express train, one may be at its port, Valparaiso. With 
 the lofty peaks near at hand, and the Pacific within easy distance, it 
 is a very desirable place of resort for a traveller, and more so on this 
 account, that the climate is temperate and healthy. 
 
 It is a city of progress. Here education has gone to the front
 
 THE COAST OF THE DISCOVERY. 
 
 275 
 
 The government buildings are very picturesque and expressive ; and 
 many of the private residences are palaces. 
 
 The wooded hill of Santa Lucia is a delightful resort From it 
 stretches a vast plain, walled by peaks which ascend to the pinnacles 
 of crystal and sapphire. There are great dews here by night, and 
 rain only falls in the winter months. The temperature ranges from 
 52 to 70 during the year. The sun seems to shine here forever in 
 an azure sky, Santiago de Chili is a city of the sun. 
 
 The plaza is the heart of the city. All local travel circulates from 
 here. It is shaded by delicious trees, and bordered with gardens and 
 trellised walks, and has a fountain which plays amid perfumed flowers. 
 
 It is a delight to linger here in the long summer days. It is 
 a garden of peace. The atmospheres in their changing light are 
 restful and dreamy. 
 
 People of all nations who come to the port of Valparaiso, may be 
 found here, resting, lounging, many of them smoking. Bright 
 smiling faces flit to and fro. Beautiful girls and their companions 
 in picturesque costumes, Indians, travellers, merchants, sailors, 
 all look as though there was nothing in the world to do. 
 
 A sailor, meeting Henry, asked : " Have you been long among the 
 Andirons?" 
 
 Pupils from the English schools, passed along the cool walks. One 
 of these schools had its beginning in the missionary efforts of the 
 daughter of a Methodist minister, who, having read Bishop Taylor's 
 works, set out for the Andes as a teacher, having only her Spanish 
 grammar and her faith. When at one time her money failed, she 
 lived on pumpkin-seeds. But her visions came to pass. 
 
 The Andeans of Chili are called the " Yankees of South America." 
 The women are as enterprising as the men. The girls act as car- 
 conductors on the great net-work of tramways. The city contains 
 about two hundred thousand inhabitants, and doubtless has a mag- 
 nificent future before it. The rich bring their treasures here, and 
 Education is here making her home. English schools are here
 
 276 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 largely attended. Spain seems to be going everywhere, and Germany 
 and England to be filling the young republics of the sun. 
 
 The Alameda is a highway of the statues of heroes. Among 
 these statues is glorious San Martin, who crossed the Andes as 
 Napoleon crossed the Alps. Under the trees of the Alameda on the 
 country-side picturesque gipsies may often be seen. 
 
 If there be a wonderful railway progress and enterprise in Chili, 
 so is there also a like spirit in periodical literature. There are more 
 than four hundred periodicals published in Chili. Santiago has eight 
 daily papers. 
 
 Here the people smoke with a far-off look on their faces, and 
 read. The telegraph brings the world to them, amid the restful 
 shades of the plaza and Alameda. 
 
 Out of the blue bay of the rock-climbed city of Valparaiso, our 
 travellers went to Iquique, the second city of Chili in commercial 
 importance, though not so as regards population. Their purpose was 
 to visit the nitrate desert of Tarapaca, one of the most curious places 
 in all the world. The ships at this port are usually anchored some 
 distance from the moles, and traffic is sometimes landed on the back 
 of men who wade through the shallow water. The mountains here 
 rise gloomy and barren, zebraed with paths of lighter hue. As it 
 sometimes does not rain here for years, there is no vegetation. 
 
 The nitrate desert is reached by railway, and is a vast chemical 
 laboratory of salts, salitierras ; of these salitierras the province of 
 Tarapaca is the richest and most interesting. 
 
 The production of nitrate of soda at Tarapaca is one of the 
 important industries of the world. What is nitrate of soda ? Why 
 is it so useful ? 
 
 It is used in the manufacture of gunpowder, and is a powerful 
 fertiliser. It is said that no crop can flourish without nitrogen ; so 
 the nitrate is an important factor in producing death and life. In 
 1889, more than twenty million quintals (one hundred pounds) of 
 nitrate of soda were exported from Chili.
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 PERU. 
 
 i 
 
 |IMA has been called the Pearl of the Pacific, The 
 old Spanish romances cluster around it ; its history 
 is like the fading of a splendid vision ; its cathedral 
 still recalls the times of old. 
 
 Spain is dying in the lands she robbed. England 
 and Germany take the lead in industry and commerce 
 in Peru. Science is king; he builds and holds the railroads, and works 
 the mines. 
 
 Before our travellers went to the Pearl of the Pacific, they stopped 
 at Mollendo, and went by rail to Arequipa, and thence to Lake 
 Titicaca, one of the most elevated bodies of water in the world, on 
 whose borders are the ruins of one of the golden temples of the 
 Children of the Sun. 
 
 They were now on their way to Cuzco, once the scene and 
 theatre of the highest civilisation ever reached by the native tribes 
 of the Americas before the discovery. 
 
 The ancient city of Cuzco, the Incarial capital, stands at a height 
 of more than eleven thousand feet above the sea. It is situated in 
 a fertile valley of barley and lucern, and is surrounded by some of 
 the grandest forests of the mid-sierra. The valley is like a paradise ; 
 the atmosphere is a splendour. Here birds sing, flowers bloom, and 
 waters flow, in a land uplifted to the sun, and surrounded by verdant 
 mountain walls and gleaming peaks. Here was indeed the place 
 for a golden city, and here a golden city rose.
 
 28<D ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Who were the Incas? 
 
 According to the Peruvian belief and legends, Manco, the first Inca, 
 descended with his wife from the sun to the shores of Lake Titicaca. 
 He proclaimed himself a Child of the Sun sent from heaven to 
 instruct the people. He carried with him a golden wedge. 
 
 He claimed that it had been revealed to him that wherever this 
 golden wedge should sink into the earth there he should found his capi- 
 tal, and around it should rise the Empire of the Sun, and a people of 
 celestial destiny. He travelled away from the shores of Titicaca, and 
 came to the blooming valley of Cuzco. Here the golden wedge disap- 
 peared in the earth ; there he founded the Peruvian race. He died 
 after a reign of forty years, in 1062, and ascended to his father the Sun. 
 He taught the people that there was one God, whose gift to man was 
 the sun, from which all things proceeded. He instructed them in the 
 virtues, in agriculture, and the arts. 
 
 The descendants of the Inca ruled Peru for centuries, and upheld 
 in the flowery valley a Golden Empire. They were Priests of the Sun. 
 The plain of Titicaca had an area of more than thirty thousand miles 
 (larger than Ireland), its lake being 12,846 feet above the level of the 
 sea, or sixteen hundred feet higher than the loftiest mountain pass of 
 Europe. It was a land of wild flowers, many of which have become 
 favourites of the world. Here bloomed the verbena, the lupine, the 
 fuschia, and the fragrant heliotrope. Here fed the vicuna and the 
 alpaca. The tablelands of the Andes in these bright regions are 
 higher than any in the world except Tibet. Their towers exceeded in 
 height the peaks of the Jungfrau and the Wetterhorn. 
 
 At the time of the Incas, Peru had a population nearly as large 
 as France to-day. The present population is only about three million. 
 The Andes of Peru abounded in mines of gold. These were worked, 
 and the ores changed into ornaments for the temples and homes. 
 Cuzco blazed with gold, the spoils of which were one day to enrich 
 Spain, and curse her for her selfishness and robbery.
 
 PERU. 
 
 283 
 
 Everything luxurious seemed to be found in Peru. Gold, ores, 
 fragrant flowers, birds of bright plumage, forests of gums, woods, 
 the inestimable Peruvian bark, india-rubber, vanilla, indigo, cinnamon, 
 sarsaparilla, ipecacuanha. The islands were the homes of birds. 
 Besides gold, the mountains abounded with silver, copper, and lead. 
 
 Here grew the maize, and was made an offering in the Incarial 
 rites to the sun. Our potato had its origin here. But the empire 
 to whom the sun gave all things decayed. The Latin race that 
 spoiled her has also declined. It is not what a race has, but what 
 a race is, that determines its prosperity, growth, and continuance. 
 The necessity to struggle, and the principles of justice, honour, and 
 mercy, make nations great. The Peruvians had not this necessity ; 
 and Spain had not honour ; and the history of these countries reads 
 like a dream. 
 
 Journeys may be made from Cuzco, which reveal the most stupen- 
 dous scenery. Such may be made to the mountains near Huaro, the 
 Gate of the Cordilleras, the Cerro Escopal. The haciendas (farms) 
 are solitary and interesting, and the rivers and waterfalls are as lovely 
 as the mountain passes and crystal peaks. 
 
 Among the rivers whose scenery is picturesque are the Rio 
 Cuchua, the Rio Maniri, the Rio Cconi, and the Rio de Condorama. 
 
 The towns also in the valleys are very picturesque. Take for 
 example the mountain town of Cailloma la Rica, of which we give an 
 engraving. The rivers with basalt dikes are among the wonders of 
 this wonderful world. 
 
 The traveller's ways here are perilous. The artist will again help 
 us here. To those who have the means and courage to explore these 
 regions in canoes, with Indian guides, the revelation of Nature is a 
 continuous surprise. 
 
 We quote at length a magnificent article on these wonderful 
 regions, which fully describes the places to which we have alluded. 
 
 " We shall present several views obtained on a journey to the east
 
 284 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of Cuzco, and afterwards another series representing an excursion 
 down the valley of the Apurimac, a region lying west of that city. 
 
 " Let us imagine ourselves starting from Cuzco in the early morn- 
 ing, with a large cavalcade and a numerous train of pack-mules, carry- 
 ing all the necessary outfit for such an expedition. A day's journey 
 brings us to the village of Huaro ; and, on the following morning, 
 leaving the village, we desert the main road, which keeps along the 
 higher ground up the valley of the Huilcanota, through the Pass of 
 the Sierra, and so on to Titicaca, the great mountain-lake of Peru. 
 Our path descends, by a succession of zigzags, towards the bottom of 
 the ravine in which flows the little stream. The ravine itself, strewn 
 with enormous rocks and a multitude of small, round pebbles, is 
 about half a mile in width. Through it the river runs, in the dry 
 season a mere thread of silver, but at the time when the snows melt, 
 transformed into a mad torrent, it fills the whole width of the ravine, 
 carrying in its muddy current huge rocks detached from the mountain 
 side, and paving-stones from the villages through which it passes. 
 
 " Reaching the opposite bank, our cavalcade prepares itself to climb 
 the huge mountain of clay-slate which bars the way. This enormous 
 mass from base to summit presents the usual stratification of slate, 
 varying in colour from bluish-gray to a shade almost black, the surface 
 in many places having a vitrified appearance, as if it had been sub- 
 jected to intense heat. Steep and narrow footpaths, invisible at a 
 distance, so hidden are they by the salient or retreating angles of 
 the stratification, lead to the summit ; and both men and horses 
 require often to rest, in the long and wearisome ascent, to accustom 
 the lungs to the extremely rarefied air of this great height. 
 
 ' Three hours' steady climbing brings us to the top, and we find 
 ourselves upon a vast plateau which stretches away to the horizon 
 like a limitless plain. No road crosses this region, but the muleteers 
 well know their way, and direct us east-southeast with the certainty 
 of a hunting-dog following a scent ; and towards night one of them
 
 VALLEY OF THE MARCOPATA.
 
 PERU. 
 
 287 
 
 HACIENDA OF LAURAMARCA 
 
 cries out, ' Lauramarca ! ' It is the hacienda where we are to pass 
 the night. 
 
 " The high table-lands of the Peruvian Andes abound in great 
 solitary haciendas like this ; but Lauramarca is, or has been till lately, 
 the most important one in all the region. A large stone building 
 with red-tile roofs, and quite a little village of Indian huts near it, 
 surrounded by a crowd of men and animals, compose the picture as 
 we draw nearer, and a salute, as from myriads of tin fish-horns, 
 welcomes the newly-arrived party. 
 
 " The limits of this estate are not well-defined, but it extends over 
 a great variety of soil, and by reason of the diversities in elevation, 
 has a great variety of productions. Its plateaux, adjacent to the snow 
 line, nourish countless herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, llamas, 
 and the alpaca. The flesh of these animals, fresh or dried, their wool, 
 horns, and hides, also their butter and cheese, are sent down the
 
 288 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 mountains, and sold all along the Pacific coast. On the slopes of the 
 plateau wander thousands of half-wild horses, requiring no care save 
 to be gathered in and branded every three years, and sold whenever 
 their owner has need of money. Besides this, the agricultural prod- 
 ucts of the hacienda are very important, consisting of wheat, oats, 
 barley, lucern, and maize, and three kinds of potatoes highly valued 
 in the country. 
 
 " Descending the eastern slope of the plateau, we arrive at the base 
 of the Andes of Avisca. Crossing their outer rampart, through one 
 of those gaps called in the language of the country puncas, or gates, 
 a magnificent region of ice and snow appears before us. This part 
 of the chain of Avisca offers a prodigious group of extinct volcanoes, 
 rising one behind another in peaks and needles and crests, in 
 shapeless masses and abrupt descents, covered with perpetual snow. 
 Through this region, by wild and dangerous paths, we make our way 
 a distance of ten miles, lengthened to double by the circuits of the 
 road, out to the head-waters of the Marcopata, a region of wonderful 
 grandeur and beauty. 
 
 " The valley here is not over a mile in width ; all the way down it 
 has its double row of high hills of conical outline, making a solid 
 mountain wall for half their height, then separate and wooded to the 
 very top, while behind them rise the snowy heights of Apu and 
 Choquechanca, azure in their shadows, and shining faint rose-colour on 
 the side kissed by the morning sun. Two streams, coming one from 
 the northwest, the other from the southwest, leap from the hillsides 
 like silvery arrows, and, directing their parallel course towards the 
 east, meet after three miles at the foot of a hill on whose summit 
 stands the village of Marcopata, a hundred and ten irregularly 
 placed huts, and a church with a square tower and a roof of thatch. 
 
 " Following the valley down, at every mile some new picture charms 
 the eye. It is, perhaps, the Cerro Escopal with its singular truncated 
 cone, wooded nearly to the summit ; or it is the wild dash of the
 
 PERU. 
 
 291 
 
 mountain torrents that come down to join their waters to those of the 
 main river, like the Cadena, the Cuchua, or the Maniri ; but ever the 
 main stream grows wider and stronger, until we find it with broad 
 current, fretted only by a rapid here and there, under the name 
 of the Cconi. an important 
 branch of one of the main 
 affluents of the Amazon. In 
 all this region, the luxuriance 
 of vegetation, and the abun- 
 dance of animal and insect life, 
 surround the traveller with 
 ever new and fascinating va- 
 riety. Colossal trees abound, 
 and parasitic plants of incred- 
 ible size and strength cling 
 to their trunks, and hang 
 down in great festoons from 
 their long branches. Some 
 of the shrubs of this country 
 attain a growth that is truly 
 marvellous ; one in particu- 
 lar, a Rhexia, which attains 
 a height of seven or ei^ht feet, 
 
 o O 
 
 merits the appellation of the 
 'king of shrubs.' It bears 
 flowers of a great size, of an 
 extremely delicate pinkish- 
 violet tint ; its quadrangular 
 stem is striped red and green, 
 and its five-nerved leaves, 
 
 covered with a soft down, are bright green above and of a dull orange 
 colour on the under side. 
 
 THE CERKO ESCOPAL.
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 . " Any reference, however casual, to the flora of Peru must make 
 mention of the Cinchona, or Quinquina, as it is variously called, the 
 tree whose bark supplies the well-known febrifuge, quinine. The date 
 at which the medicinal virtues of this tree were discovered appears 
 to be not far from 1636, at which time it is first mentioned by the 
 Spanish chroniclers. To the Incas it evidently was not known ; and 
 it seems to have been first successfully used in 1638, when the 
 Spanish Viceroy's wife was cured of a fever by its administration. 
 On her return to Spain this lady carried a large supply of Quinquina 
 bark, and distributed it among her friends. Some years later, Jesuit 
 missionaries, returning from South America, introduced the new rem- 
 edy at Rome, and exerted themselves to extend its use throughout 
 Italy ; and France and England also received it not far from the 
 same time. Finally, from Linnaeus it received scientific classification 
 in the family of Rubiaceae, of which he makes it a genus by itself, 
 with the name Cinchona officinalis. 
 
 " It appears that the conditions requisite for the growth of the 
 Cinchona are elevation and irregularity of surface, heat by day and a 
 much lower temperature by night, and a constantly moist atmosphere 
 combined with considerable dryness of soil, all which conditions are 
 combined on the Andean slopes, in a belt of territory two thousand 
 miles in length and varying in width, but never exceeding two degrees. 
 
 " For our western expedition in the Peruvian sierras, we return ta 
 the main highway, if so we may call it, of the valley of the Huilcanota, 
 and follow it southward to the point where the Sierra of Huilcanota 
 unites with, or rather disappears in, the great chain of the western 
 Andes. All the grandeur of the region of perpetual snow reigns 
 over the desolate post-hut, or Machu-Condoroma, our first station on 
 the western slope of the Cordillera. Two mountain masses whose 
 disjointed stratification, fractured, dislocated, here at an angle, there 
 vertical, now retreating, now overhanging, rise before us, represent- 
 ing in the foreground two huge pylons, between which we must pass.
 
 PERU. 
 
 295 
 
 One of these masses retains a dark brick-red colour, as if the central 
 fire which originally lifted and dislocated all its strata kept it yet in a 
 dull glow. The other, blackish and streaked with gray, blue, and a 
 dull yellow, has an appearance of being vitrified. Through the gap 
 which opens between these two, we behold the post-station, a low 
 building of rough stone. From its chimney rises a thick cloud of 
 
 RIO CADENA. 
 
 smoke, thrown up with extreme distinctness against the snowy back- 
 ground of the mountains behind it. 
 
 " After a few hours' rest at Machu-Condoroma, our party proceeds 
 on its way. As the sun rises higher, the white mantle of snow 
 thrown over everything tears away here and there, showing the colour 
 of the soil ; and rivulets, which steal down from the mountain wall 
 and run across the road, moisten the ochre and clay, and form a 
 muddy paste in which the mules' feet slip, giving their riders no little
 
 296 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 anxiety, despite the proverbial sure-footedness of these useful 
 beasts. 
 
 " But the inconveniences of the melting snow, though great, are all 
 forgotten at the sight of the Rio de Condoroma, a tumultuous stream 
 which bars the way, and must be crossed. Its surface, very quiet in 
 the dry season, now presents a mad play of waves, foaming and dash- 
 ing, and casting their spray high in air. To cross this torrent at the 
 spot where we are is impossible, and our only course is to follow it 
 down till a ford is reached. This expedient leads us three miles out 
 of our way, but proves at last successful. 
 
 " About twelve miles of mountain paths, on .the other side ot the 
 river, brings us to an outlet into the circular plain where lies the 
 village of Cailloma, which the inhabitants call Cailloma la Rica, 
 from the wealth of its silver mines. We cross the plain diagonally ; 
 and as we draw near Cailloma, the herdsmen's huts and cattle-parks 
 seem to advance towards us. A few lights shine here and there 
 in the town as we enter ; and the muleteers guide the party to the 
 tampu, or caravansary, where they are accustomed to lodge with 
 their beasts. The tampu is a great enclosure like a farm-yard, open 
 to the sky, and strewn with broken straw and provender. The 
 lodgings for travellers are the little pens of rude masonry, receiving 
 air and light only through the doors, which line three sides of the 
 enclosure. 
 
 " An expedition through the town occupies an hour of leisure. 
 There are five streets and sixty-three houses, besides the herdsmen's 
 huts and parks of which we have before spoken. The church is a 
 rectangular building, built of stone and earth, pierced with six win- 
 dows, and surmounted by two square towers, each coiffed with some- 
 thing which may by courtesy be called a cupola. The high altar is 
 flanked by two chapels, one dedicated to Our Lady of Carmel, the 
 other to Saint Joseph, the patron saint of Peru. Both are ornamented 
 with a profusion of votive offerings, reliquaries, and lamps of massive
 
 RIO CUCHUA.
 
 PERU. 
 
 299 
 
 CAILLOMA LA RICA. 
 
 silver. A few worthless pictures complete the decoration of the holy 
 place. 
 
 " From Cailloma we proceed directly west for a few miles, following a 
 road which is but a succession of steep declivities and precipices, as 
 far as Lake Vilafro. From this lake, a placid blue sheet of water like 
 a mirror of steel set in the ground, flows northward a little stream, at 
 first called the Chita, which after a course of several leagues, and the 
 reception of nine mountain torrents on the left, and eleven on the 
 right, receives the name of the Apurimac, the Master Brawler of 
 the Indians, and is presently lost in the mighty Amazon, at a point 
 not more than five hundred miles distant from the Pacific coast. 
 
 " In the infinite variety of the scenes traversed on our northward 
 journey, the basalt dikes on the little river Velille deserve especial 
 mention. Emerging from a rude and dangerous gorge where the 
 road is a footpath along the edge of tremendous precipices, we are
 
 300 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 suddenly rewarded by this picture, of which nothing had given us the 
 slightest preliminary hint. At the opening of the gorge the waters 
 of the little stream spread out into a tranquil expanse sixty feet wide, 
 becoming as quiet as the stillest lake. The basaltic formations which 
 determine this sudden change represent on the two sides of the river 
 enormous piers, reflected in the water with their fluted shafts and 
 architectural characteristics, and the vegetation growing luxuriantly 
 upon their tops. Two Indians, kneeling on a raft of porous trunks 
 which the weight of their bodies half submerged, gave life to the 
 scene ; and, asking curiously what their occupation here might be, we 
 learned that they were fishing for the celebrated suchis, the most 
 delicious fish of the region of the Cordilleras. 
 
 " The same basalt formations characterise much of the scenery in 
 this part of the country. A few miles farther the road leads within 
 view of the Apurimac, rushing along between tall cliffs, like the leaves 
 of a screen, or like the arrangement of side-scenes in a theatre. 
 Between them the yellow and foaming waters, making their way down 
 an incline encumbered with rocks, dash and whirl along at a rapid 
 pace. 
 
 " From this point to the source of the Rio Mesacancha, the country 
 is a succession of verdant plains and arid hill-slopes, of which nothing 
 interrupts the monotony. Nowhere is seen the cultivated field or the 
 thatched hut which betrays the presence of man. A little before we 
 reach Chollacchaca, which is to furnish our night's lodging, between 
 two wooded slopes of most picturesque outline, we come upon the 
 cascade which is considered the source of the Mesacancha. It is 
 scarcely possible to imagine a more exquisite scene, and one more in 
 contrast with the wild grandeur which attends so many of the moun- 
 tain torrents of Peru, especially the gorge of the Huarancalqui (see 
 engraving on page 303), a few miles farther on, and the northern 
 limit of our expedition. 
 
 " From the summit of a hill overgrown with those minute mush-
 
 PERU. 
 
 303 
 
 rooms called cetas, which the Indians bring to market in the cities, 
 where gormands devour them with great approbation, we look down 
 into a gorge formed by the approach of the rocky barriers of the 
 
 SOURCE OF THE MESACANCHA. 
 
 stream, to where, far below, a white torrent, all foam, rushes on its 
 way. A narrow path leads down from the height on which we stand 
 to the very edge of the stream. The guides say the descent is prac-
 
 304 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ticable, and we essay it. As we go down, daylight seems to withdraw. 
 Soon the sky is but a narrow strip of blue far up between the rocks. 
 When we reach the edge of this torrent, whose speed is incalculable, 
 and its uproar deafening, a greenish half light, which replaces the day 
 of the upper world, wraps all things as in a fog, and gives to the 
 scene a strange and supernatural character whose influence we feel 
 but cannot explain. 
 
 " By aid of some beams placed across the torrent we pass from one 
 bank to the other. We ascend a sort of natural staircase cut in the 
 rock on the opposite side, and in an hour have left the scene behind 
 us, and with the rapids of the Huarancalqui we bid adieu to the char- 
 acteristic scenery of the Peruvian Cordillera. The region unfolding 
 before us has no similarity to those we have seen among the Andes. 
 The singular conical peaks, covered from base t to summit with luxu- 
 riant vegetation, and furrowed vertically by mountain torrents, have 
 disappeared. There are now only groups of low, rounded hills, either 
 bare or clad with furze, out of which rise, here and there, clumps of 
 low bushes. The atmosphere too has changed, and an extremely dry 
 air takes the place of that warm dampness which rose out of the 
 shady depths of the mountain valleys higher up. 
 
 " Proceeding farther into this region, which the early missionaries, 
 and after them the geographers, have named the Pajonal, we discover 
 that it is far from being so sterile as has been represented. Besides 
 the great variety of cereals which grow here, and give it from a dis- 
 tance a denuded aspect, there are many useful plants and shrubs, and 
 after a time we come to dense forests, differing, however, in character 
 rom those on the Andean slopes. 
 
 " All the country is full of rivers, embroidering with threads of silver 
 the broad expanse of these great plains, and falling one after another 
 into the Apurimac. At the point of meeting of the Huarancalqui and 
 the Apurimac, the latter is about four hundred feet broad. Most of 
 these streams are navigable, and the traveller, who explores them now
 
 RIO APURIMAC.
 
 PERU. 
 
 307 
 
 in his canoe, and with his Indian guides, cannot but picture to himself, 
 as he takes a last look at them, that the day must come when civilisa- 
 tion will furrow their quiet waters with her swift keels, and lay across 
 these solitary plains the network of her iron tracks." 
 
 We have presented a picture of a narrow pass over the Andes. 
 Strange and awful stories are sometimes associated with these passes. 
 That is a perilous moment when two travellers on mules, or two dili- 
 gences, meet around a curve in these paths as it were in the sky. 
 Awful precipices yawn beneath them, and there must be no false step 
 or misdirection. 
 
 A traveller was once going up on one of these high narrow passes on 
 a mule, just ahead was a curve, and around the curve only one animal 
 could pass at a time. Below yawned chasms over which it would 
 have made one dizzy to look. 
 
 The traveller had nearly reached the curve, when he saw a sight 
 that made his heart sink ; around the sharp rock appeared an ani- 
 mal's head and a pair of horns. Both animals could not pass ; must 
 one go over the cliff ? The ox had the advantage. He could dive 
 down, and hurl the mule over into the chasm. 
 
 The mule saw the whole situation. He seemed to have almost 
 human reason. Squealing, he dropped upon the edge of the cliff, 
 crowded his form against the rock, and compelled the ox to pass over 
 him, kicking so as not to be dislodged. The traveller threw himself on 
 the mule's body. The ox passed over the mule and man, leaping so as 
 not to be kicked. He was followed by other cattle, which passed over 
 the mule and traveller in like manner. When they had gone, the little 
 mule lifted his head, leaped up, and bore the traveller safely away. 
 
 The South American Indians represent many curious types of the 
 Indian race. The lowest order is the Fuegians. The Indians of 
 the Amazon are a short sturdy race. Their warriors wear belts
 
 308 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 and rings, which give them a barbarous aspect. The women have 
 benevolent faces that little recall the terrible legends of the " Amazons." 
 
 The families who live largely on the boats of the Amazon are an 
 interesting race ; and an Amazonian boat is in itself an object of inter- 
 est, as it suggests the comforts that approach civilisation and progress. 
 Picturesque are the Indians of the La Platte, with their graceful dress 
 and head-gear. 
 
 The question forces itself upon the traveller, " What is education 
 to accomplish for these interesting races ? " The work of the mis- 
 sionaries shows the tribes, even the fierce Tierra-del-Fuegians, are 
 very susceptible to civilising influences. The Incarial Indians number 
 but a few thousand, out of the historic race of thirty million, prob- 
 ably not more than thirty thousand. But the height to which these 
 Indians rose shows a still latent possibility. Under the right training, 
 the Indians of the fertile and blooming plateaux of the Peruvian Andes 
 might again achieve a noble place among the families of men. Juarez, 
 of Mexico, one of the most wonderful men of the nineteenth century, 
 was of Indian blood. He accomplished the independence of his race, 
 and his tomb is a shrine. Have not these races of South America un- 
 told possibilities ? May there not be many Juarezes among them ? 
 The study of such questions may, and probably will, one day occupy 
 the best Christian and educational thought of the world.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 EDUCATION IN SOUTH AMERICA. MEXICO. 
 
 HE Scandinavians colonised Iceland in 875, and 
 Greenland about a century later. In the year 1000, 
 they discovered land as far north as 41 30' north 
 latitude. This point is near New Bedford, Mass. It 
 is believed that they settled in Mount Hope Bay ; 
 and a rock, still to be seen, near Mount Hope, not 
 far from the Rhode Island Soldiers' Home, has an inscription that 
 .nay have been made to commemorate this discovery. This cannot be 
 certain. A like inscription is to be seen on a rock at Dighton, Mass. 
 Both of these rocks are covered by high tides. 
 
 It is thought that Madoc, a Welsh Prince, discovered America in 
 1170. 
 
 The continent of North America was discovered by the Cabots in 
 1497 (June 24th). The continent of South America was first seen by 
 Vespucci, near Trinidad, in 1499. These discoveries will doubtless be 
 made the occasions of grand celebrations. 
 
 South America was early adopted by Spain and Portugal ; and the 
 western shores are thought to have been peopled at a period of very 
 great antiquity by inhabitants of the lost island of Atlantis. 
 
 In her narrowest part, South America is only thirty miles broad ; 
 in her widest part, she is three thousand two hundred miles. Her 
 coast measures sixteen thousand five hundred miles. She has an 
 area nearly twice as large as Europe, and a population of some thirty* 
 five million.
 
 312 
 
 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 MUD-HUTS, COLUMBIA. 
 
 She is the land of republics, and her curse is civil dissension. These 
 splendid republics of the sun need only education to lift them to the 
 very summits of civilisation ; to give education to South America is to 
 create a new world for the highest achievement. Her coasts are un- 
 healthy, but her table-lands offer the grandest opportunities ; they are 
 salubrious, fertile, grand in their scenery, and surpass, in all that makes 
 Nature attractive, nearly all of the most peaceful abodes of man. 
 
 The climate of the highlands of South America is one of the most 
 beautiful of the world. The soil is wealth. Education only is wanting; 
 When the republics of the Andes see this, as it is already seen in 
 Mexico, they are likely to make the most surprising advancement, 
 and to develop not only wealth, but all that is highest in literature, 
 art, and science.
 
 I I
 
 ED UCA TION IN SO UTH AMERICA . MEXICO, 3 1 5 
 
 Her republics are like a procession on the march. First comes 
 COLUMBIA, once New Granada, holding the isthmus between the two 
 continents. It has a liberal government, with no state religion. 
 
 This republic has already awakened to the necessities of education. 
 She has eighteen hundred schools, with seventy-five thousand pupils, 
 and an Escuela Normal, or Normal school, is found in each of the nine 
 departments of the country. The need is now of higher education. 
 
 Venezuela has two universities, nineteen federal colleges, with 
 2538 students, nineteen private colleges and Normal schools, and 
 1 794 day-schools attended by ninety-five thousand pupils. 
 
 Ecuador is in darkness ; only about seventy-five thousand of the 
 people can read and write. The system of government is intolerant. 
 
 Peru, the land of the Incas and the golden temples of the sun, is 
 lacking in the spirit of educational progress. She has about three 
 hundred and fifty thousand uncivilised Indians, who have a grand in- 
 heritance of noble blood, but who are degraded by the people who 
 have robbed them of their wealth, and made no return in any material, 
 or moral, or educational good. If ever there was a promising field for 
 a missionary, it is here. There is a university at Lima, and some forty- 
 five high-class schools, and six hundred and fifty public and private 
 schools. Mexican missionaries have established schools in several 
 cities ; but the government of this once rich empire has not caught the 
 spirit of the Northern republics. If ever there was a field of the 
 grandest possibilities, it is here. Our maize, our potatoes, our Peru- 
 vian bark, as well as so much of the world's wealth, came in part from 
 Peru. Let the world offer education to these wronged and degraded 
 people. The Incarial Indians may rise again; and if they may never 
 again have temples with doors of gold, they may have schools of 
 greater treasures. He would indeed be a benefactor who should lead 
 these people out of darkness. The republic awaits her Pestalozzi, her 
 new San Martin, her Leopold. 
 
 Bolivia, too, awaits leaders in all that is higher and nobler in life.
 
 316 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Only about twelve thousand pupils attend school, or five per cent of 
 her children at the school age. 
 
 Brazil is a monument of the progressive mind of Dom Pedro. The 
 republic has between six and seven thousand public and private schools ; 
 and two hundred and eighty schools of high grade called colleges, in 
 all 435,997 pupils (in 1885). Dom Pedro, when in New York, interested 
 himself in kindergartens ; and this form of training for character and 
 right habits was begun in Brazil by American teachers. 
 
 Paraguay has 3676 pupils; and Uraguay has 429 private schools 
 with 20,899 scholars. 
 
 Chili has fine English schools at Santiago. Her great university 
 and her lyceums were attended, in 1806, by nearly 6,000 pupils. She 
 has 862 public primary schools, with 78,810 scholars (1806). 12,000 
 pupils attend school, or one-fifth. 
 
 Our travellers went to Lima, and thence to the Pacific port of 
 Mexico and to the City of Mexico. Mr. Davidson and Henry 
 returned to New York from Mexico by rail, a five days' ride ; while 
 Harold obtained a cheaper passage by boat from Vera Cruz. The 
 trip around the world and to South America cost Mr. Davidson and 
 Henry about $1500 each, and Harold, $500. It was an education to 
 the boys that could have been obtained in no other way, and enabled 
 them to begin life with a truer view of the world. 
 
 The journey along the west coast of South America and through 
 Mexico had impressed upon our travellers a thought which must one 
 day occupy many minds. It was that the republics of the western 
 sun, on the Pacific coasts, may some time have a grand history. The 
 Nicaraguan canal may one day make Valparaiso a grand port. Educa- 
 tion may bring back a noble race to the plateaux of the Peruvian 
 Andes. Mexico may repeat her ancient history on the highest plane 
 of civilisation, education, and progress. Already her schools in the 
 City of Mexico, Monterey, and Chihuahua promise this. Orizaba and
 
 EDUCATION IN SOUTH AMERICA. MEXICO. 
 
 3*9 
 
 Popocatapetl, the monarchs of mountains, may one day be the domes 
 that shall look down on some of the highest achievements of 
 man. 
 
 The heights to which Peru and Mexico once rose are prophetic ; 
 the uniting of the two oceans by a canal is as promising. The Pan- 
 American Congress was like the voice of a herald. New times are 
 appearing; North America has risen to her opportunity. Central 
 and South America have a greater opportunity. Was Edwin Arnold 
 erratic when he prophesied that the greatest achievements of the 
 Americas would take place on the southern plateaux? It once 
 was so ; and history may repeat itself. South America is the land 
 of opportunity; and science and education are preparing the way. 
 He feels this who studies the march of the new events of the 
 world. 
 
 The American flag stands for the emancipation of all peoples, 
 and says to all : 
 
 " O LIBERTY, them who hast lifted 
 
 My eye to the walls of the sun, 
 I float for the new years of heaven, 
 
 The brotherhood conflict has won. 
 No longer for races contending, 
 
 But for man move the cycles sublime ; 
 The summons for peace is ascending 
 
 From the jubilee trumpets of time ! 
 
 " I salute ye, O feet that have followed 
 
 Fair Hesper to destinies new ! 
 I salute ye, O pioneers coming ! 
 
 I bid ye, O voyagers, adieu ! 
 In the mist of the surge, in the tempest, 
 
 With the sunlight or cloud on my brow, 
 I float for the best of all ages, 
 
 And the best of all ages is now !
 
 320 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " That man may be given his birthright, 
 
 And knowledge, the future that waits ; 
 Equality, freedom to labour, 
 
 And labour, the wealth it creates. 
 That the temples of truth, for their Master, 
 
 By charity's feet may be trod ; 
 That hearts that are humble and human, 
 
 May do the swift service of God." 
 
 Fraternity, rise to thy mission, 
 
 The noblest since order began, 
 Till the nations are brothers united 
 
 In one federation of man ! 
 The Future stands waiting to greet thee, 
 
 And Battle her standards has furled 
 Thou art like a signal of heaven, 
 
 O Flag to humanity given, 
 For which all the heroes have striven ! 
 
 Hail, Banner that welcomes the World ! 
 
 THE END.
 
 320 ZIGZAG JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " That man may be given his birthright, 
 
 And knowledge, the future that waits ; 
 Equality, freedom to labour, 
 
 And labour, the wealth it creates. 
 That the temples of truth, for their Master, 
 
 By charity's feet may be trod ; 
 That hearts that are humble and human, 
 
 May do the swift service of God." 
 
 Fraternity, rise to thy mission, 
 
 The noblest since order began, 
 Till the nations are brothers united 
 
 In one federation of man ! 
 The Future stands waiting to greet thee, 
 
 And Battle her standards has furled 
 Thou art like a signal of heaven, 
 
 O Flag to humanity given, 
 For which all the heroes have striven ! 
 
 Hail, Banner that welcomes the World ! 
 
 THE END.
 
 
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