B 3 4 6 rnia I ^^v^ il^iji^^ s //' ^^^^Li^-^^s^ ■-:i» '' r* JST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL. A i(4e p. J7J, HISTORY ANCIENT AND BIODERN OR, VISITORS GVIDIi: jSlttropolts of JtrrianJj. comprising ATE DftSCBIPTION OV ITS PITBLIC EDIFICES L'TIONS, AND EVERY THING WOKTHY OF N Illustrated with numerous Etigravings. BY M. STARRAT, A. B. T. C. D. 4 " Miraliir moUm .Eneas mai^alia quondrim Miratur porfas, strfpitumijue ♦'f strata viarnui.'^— ViR&lL. 33ufilm : nUNTED BY J. CHARLES, 57, MARY-ST. SOLD BY R. M.Tii.K, 85, and Yaffs, ll^jGrnfton-street ; Gardiner. 40, We-stniorland street ; W. Curry dc Co. 9, Evans, 35, and J Kempsloii, 51, Sackville-sireet ; M. Byrne, 16, Coll«-jce-greeii ; NY.tt A. ^Vatson, 7, dr J. Burn>ijde, ^ " ii, CapeUsfreet ; also, by R. Farrdl, tluay, -, Wnterlord; H. Denmead, Patriok-street,' ^, Cork ; (J. M'Kcrn, George's-s(reet,and ..^ P.O'Goruiau, Patrick-st. Limerick. PiJirK rHuivk sHii.i.»vo>i. i) INDEX. -•in Annals of Dublin, in regular ^uccesbion froir. to 1399, Ancient Dublin described, Arms of the ancient Irish, Archbishop Allan murdered at Artane,.. Adom and Eve Chapel, ^ Arrun-quay Chapel, Apothecaries^ Hall, , :•' Brian Boru defeats theOatmen hear Dublin, A. D Brian Boru slain, A.D. 1014,.. Bakers punished...... -> Byrnes and Tooles,.... ' Bible translated into English, Brass Money, <.: Bank of Ireland, Account of, yj Black Monday, 117 Bridge-street Chapel, 1.5T Baptist Meeting-House, \o'J Barrack Bridge, 169 Bke Coat Hospital, 190 Bethesda Chapel,.,. 207 Christianity first introduced iato Ireland, S:i Corporation of the City of Dublin, of whom composed, *)6 Commercial Buildings, 109 City Assembly-House, Hi Clar«udon-3treet Chapel,... .............> il>'' 2U60574 H INDEX. PAGE ivent of St. Joseph, ., IIS II Exchange, 137 tie of Dublin, 143 tie Chapel, 146 ' pol of St. Michael and St. John 153 st Church, 153 torn-House, .. .. 2!J1 lisle Bridge 2:23 D;iiies, or Ostmen, their arrival, .. •• ,, IS Dress of the citizens, .. «, .. .• *• 74 Oonnybrook, 121 nablin Society-House, •< •• 126 Duhlin Penitentiary, • .. •• 196 Ocnmark-strcet Chnpel, i •• 206 i)ublin Female Penitentiary, ., ., .. •• 20S bablin Institution, 215 Dublin Library, 224 Knglish Invasion, •• •• 26 Rvents from the commencement of the Seventeenth C«ntury to the Visit of his present Majesty, George It. A. D. 1821, 54 Kbeiiezer Chapel, 138 Eu .ice-slreet Meeting- House, ., .. .. 181 Esi. X Bridge, .. 203 Firl)olgs, 8 First Aucouiil of Dublin, ♦ .. 17 I'reiich-street Chapel, ,, ,» ., •• ,. 116 Fiizwilliam Square, ,, ,, 132 Floating Chapol, 133 Four Courts Marshalsea, ., .. •. •• 158 Francis-street Chapel, , .. 15^ Foundling Hoiipital, .. .. .. .. .. 162 Female Orphan-House, 195 Free Church, 210 Four Courts, description of, ,. .* .. •• 218 INDEX. IH PAGE G€orge's-streel Methodist-House, iSO Henry II. arrived, and remained in Dublin for five months, A. D. llTii, ol Hats first worn, '5 House of Refuge, Baggot-street, 131 Hibernian Marine School, 133 House of Recovery, Cork-street, 16T House of Correction, 169 House of Industry, J97 Hospital, Jervis-street, 205 Introductory Observations, , ., 7 Images removed, .. .. .» •• .« ,, 60 James II.— arrival of, , ., .. 6] Iron, or Metal Bridge, 224 Kildare-street Society, 125 Kilmainham Gaol, .. 16T King's Inns, .. 198 King's Bridge, 226 Kingstov^n AsylumHarbour, .. .. .. .. 227 Linen Hall, 199 Lying-in Hospital, 211 Milesians, 10 Miles Cogan appointed first English Governor of Dublin, A. D. 1170, 29 Mayor of the Bull Ring, 72 Mercer's Hospital, 115 Magdalen Asylum, 120 Mansion- House, 12 i Merrion-Square, • •• 130 Mendicity Association, .. 157 Meath-street Chapel, ](>0 Meath Hospital, 169 Marsh's Library, ^ ..ITS A IV INDEX. PAGK MolyriPfiux Asylum, .. .. 1T8 Mary's Abbey, 202 Mary's Church, '.. .. 204 Mountjoy Square, 210 Mefropolifnn Chapel, 215 No«e Rent 19 Newt^afe, ion Nelson's Pill«r, 2ir. OUam Fodla, 1» Orisfiri, nnme, an Pleasants' Asyluna, 117 Plunket-street Meeting-House, J5P Phoenix Park, 195 Post Office, .. .. ^17 aunrrel in St. Patrick's Church, }7 ftualificatious necessary to gain ndmittauce into the Irish Army, .. .. 7 7 Quaker's Meeting-House, 181 Queen's Bridge, 1S9 Remarliable occurrences iu the History of Dublin, during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, . . 11 Religion, Wakes, Funerals, &c. of the ancient Irish, TS Royal Arcade, 110 Royal College of Surgeons, 122 INDEX. V PAGE Royal Excbango 140 Record Tower, 149 Rnyal Hospital, Kilmainham, 166 Richmond Bridge, 186 Rutland-Square, .. .. 213 Royal Hibernian Academy, 219 Stone of Destiny, .. .. 9 Stratagem used by an Irish Monarch to rid the coun- try of the tyrant, , ., 21 Strongbow recalled to England, 30 Saint Patrick — brief and satisfactory Life of, .. 83 Sketch of Modern Dublin, 89 Statue of King William III 108 Saint Andrew's Church, 112 Stamp Office, 113 Saint Stephen's Green, .. .. IIS Saint Anne's Church, I2J Society for promoting the Education of the Poor of Ireland, 1:^5 Saint Stephen's Chape), 131 Sir Patrick Dunn's Hospital 132 Saint Mark's Church, 13t Saint Werburgh's Church, 150 Saint Bride's Church, .. 151 Saint John's Church, .. ib Saint Nicholas's Church, .. J52 Saint Michaels Church, .. ]56 Saint Audeon's Church, 156 Saint Catherine's Ctiurch, 160 Saint James's Church, 161 Saint James's Chapel, : 16ji SwifCs Hospital, fei Stephens's Hospital, 165 Stove Tenter-House, 168 Saint Kevin's Church, 170 VI INDEX. PAGE Saint Luke's Church, 170 Saint Patrick's Cathedral, iTI Schomberg^, Duke's scull, , lf6 Saint Nicholas Without, 1T7. Saint Michan's Church, 188 Saint Paul's Church, 190 Sarah Bridj^e, 193 Saint Michan's Chapel, 201 Strand-street Meeting-House, 203 Sinipson's Ho.cpital, 206 Saint George's Church, 20S Turffe«iiis's conduct towards the Irish, ,, .. 19 Trinity College, 99 , lis Museuna, .. .j .. .. 103- Theatre, 104 Libray, 105 Park, 106 ■ Anatomy-House, .. ., .. 107 Botanic Garden, ib ... Theatre Royal, 135 -^ Townseud-street Chapel, 137 Thomas's Church, 214 Usher'a-quay Meeting-House, 157 Wails of Dublin 67 War-Cry of the ancient Irish, 77 Westmoreland Lock Hospital, 135 Whitefriar-street, 178 Whitworth Bridge, 187 Wellington Testimonial, 194 Wellesley National Market, 225 Voik-slrect Chapel, 123 ANCIENT HISTORY DUBLIN. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. Irish historians have gone very far in iheir A?onject«res respeclino- the first colonization of Ireland; some of them, like those of other nations, anxious to confer upon their country a remote orig-in, have informed us, that Ca^ara, a niece of Noah, brought a colony into Ireland a short time previous to the deluge. Others state, that immediately after the dispersion of mankind at Babel, Partholan, a descendant of Japhet, led a colony into Ireland, after beino- driven out of Greece. These were succeeded by the Fomorians, who, according to some of the early historians, came from Africa about u the year of the u orld 2400. They are described as befnj^ descended from Shem, and as having left Africa rather than reside anionja: the pos- terity of Ham, which had been cursed by Noah. Other writers, however, affirm that the Fomo- riaiis were a wicked race, descended from Ham, and that fierce contentions arose between the two parties, which terminated in the depopula- tion of Ireland. A few years after, a new colony, of the pos- terity of Japhet, arrived from the Euxine Sea, under the command of Nemedius, who re- mained masters of the island for more than two centuries : these were also invaded by the Fomorians, who subdued them, and remained in possession of the island for four hundred years, when perpetual civil wars terminated in their extinction. We read that the Firbolgs were the next, the posterity of Nemedius, who, after their expul- sion from Ireland, are said to have formed set- tlements in Gaul and Britai]i, from whence they despatched five thousand men, A. M. 2657, to resume the possession of their ancient inherit- ance. This colony, v^ e are informed, was com- manded by five brothers, sons of Dela, who u'vided the country into five parts; in each of which, one of the brothers was acknowledged monarch. The Firbolgs are said to have con- tinued in possession of the ishnid for a ])eriod of eighty years, through a succession of nine sovereign chiefs. The name, Firbolg, may be a compound of the word /r, signifying in Irish, men, and Belg(i\ the country from whence they came. In the reign of the hist of the Firbolgs, Ireland was invaded by another colony of the posterity of Nemedias, denominated by Irish writers, Danonians, who are said to have arrived from Norway and Sweden, in the year of the world 2737, and to have defeated the Firbolgs with the loss of many thousands, including their monarch. A remnant of them which escaped after the battle, took refuge in the isles of Man, Arran, and some of the Hebrides ; from whence, after a period of twenty years, they made an attempt to regain it, but were over- thrown, and the Danonians remained undisputed masters of Ireland for nearly two centuries. They are said to have introduced into Ii eland the sword, the spear, and the \var-horse, and also the Laigh-Tail, or the Stone of Destiny, on which succeeding monarchs were crowned, and on which the Kings of England have been inaugurated since the time of Edward the First, U) who, in the year 1296, had it conveyed, with other regalia, from the Abbey of Scone, in Scotland, to Westminster Abbey, where it stiJI remains. Historians inform us, that this is the stone on which Jacob laid his head, when he had those celestial visions mentioned in Scrip- ture ; that it was brought out of Palestine into Ireland, and from thence carried into Scotland, for the coronation of Fergus the Great, about the year 503, as it had been the receiv ed opi- nion that, wherever it was preserved, there a prince of the Scythian, or Irish race, would reign. A late writer, however, endeavours to prove, that Jacob's stone pillow was brought out of Africa into Ireland by the Fomorians. The Milesians succeeded these ; a Spanish colony, who invaded Ireland in the year of the world, 2934. They are said to be the descend- ants of a long line of heroes in Egypt and Phoenicia, who, having subdued Spain, spread their conquests to the remotest western bounda- ries of Europe. They, we are informed, landed in the West of Mun^ter, under the command of Heber, Heremon, and Amergin, three sons of Milesius, and having suljdued the Danonians in two bloody battles, they obtained the com- plete dominion of the island. Aruergin was 11 appointed supreme Druid and Judge, and from the brothers, Heber and Heremon, the Irish monarchs derived their descent, with few ex- ceptions, to the period of the Enjg^lish invasion. Contrary to these opinions, Camden affirms that Irehmd was first peopled by Britons ; but that afterwards, in consequence of the revolu- tions which arose in different countries, Gauls, Germans, and Spaniards, were compelled to seek refuge in it. Spenser asserts, that the Gauls were the first inhabitants of Britain and Ireland, while Sir William Petty conjectures, that the primitive inhabitants came from Scot- land, and produces the identity of the Erse and Irish languages, in evidence of his hypothesis. Mr. O'Connor says, that Ireland being origi- nally peopled by colonies from North and South Britain, retained the same barbarous customs ; and Mr. O' Flaherty, who studied with great diligence the history of his native country, favours the opinion of Camden. Diodorus Siculus, who lived nearly six hundred years before the Christian era, is generally supposed to allude to Ireland, when he speaks of an island little less than Sicily, opposite to the Celtfp, and inhabited by Hyperboreans. Shortly after Heber and Heremon assumed 12 the sovereignty of the island, disputes arose between them, which terminated in the death of the forruer; and from that period Heremon became sole monarch. He reigned thirteen years, during which he gained several victories over predatory bodies of Picts and Britons, and left the crown conjointly between his three sons. From this period, for more than three hundred years, Ireland presented a scene of the most sanguinary contention between the descendants of Heber and Heremon, almost every monarch having perished by the hand of his successor. These barbarous and sanguinary conflicts were succeeded by the peaceful and prosperous reign of Ollam Fodla, whoj^according to our ancient records, held triennial meetings at the palace of Tara. At these conventions, com- posed of the provincial kings and nobility, the Druids, and the deputies of the people, the records of the kingdom are said to have been examined and corrected with the greatest care ; law^s enacted or repealed, disputes between the provinces adjusted, and offenders adjudged and punished accordiDg to their crimes. His suc- cessors do not appear to have derived any bene- fit from his wisdom and example ; for of thirty- one monarchs who governed Ireland, during a 13 period of three luindred years after him, only three died a natural death. The annals of Ireland, for several centuries after the reign of Hiigony the Great, who as- cended the throne in the year of the world 361 9, abound with narratives of court intrigues, and with the fierce contentions arising from the elections of the monarchs. The country, however, was blessed with comparative tran- quillity in the reign of Conary the Great, who ascended the throne in the year of the world 3937, and under whose sway the arts of peace were cultivated, and commerce was greatly extended. He perished in the flames of his own palace at Tara, which was surprised and set on fire by a desperate band of invaders from Wales, in the sixtieth year of his reig;n. The dates of the accession of the subsequent Irish princes, are given from the commence- ment of the Christiiui era. On the death of Crimthan the First, who ascended the throne in the year 74, the Firbolg's endeavoured to subvert the Milesian govern- ment, afier it had existed for a period of eleven centuries, and succeeded so far as to place Carbry, of that race, on the throne, which he 14 filled to hi^ death ; but his iion, Moraii, \rith a singular disinteregtedness, resigned the crown to the son of Criinthan, of the Milesian race, while the former contented himself with the office of Chief Justice. Among' the Irish princes, the reign of Tua- tha.i is said to have been the most prosjoerous. He buik palaces in each of the provinces, es- tablished important regulations connected with the religion and manners of the people, and introduced a degree of order and tranquillity into the country, with which it had been hitherto unacquainted. The short reigns of Feidlim and Cathir pre- sent nothing worthy of notice; but under the reign of Conn, who ascended the throne in 177, the country was much agitated by intestine commotions. He joined Angus, King of Mun- ster, with a large army, against Eugene, a prince of the line of Heber, who had driven Angus from the government of th^t pro\ince. Eu- gene being obliged to quit the kingdom, fled into Spain, but shortly returned with a large army, and not only recovered Munster, but compellod Conn to make a division of Ireland, the boundarv of which extended from High- 15 street, in the City of Dublin, to Galway, and was distinguished by a ridge of little hillf, called by the Irish Jisgir Reida. Part of this ridge may be traced, by the curious traveller, along the south side of the fair-green of Bal- linasloe, where it is crossed by the road leading to Galway; it then stretches through the de- mesne of the Earl of Clancarty, and afterwards is seen from the road leading to Ahascragh, extending towards Kilconnell. This di\ ision, which appears to have taken place about the year 191, did not subsist more than a year, when it was overturned by the ambition of Eugene, who thought himself over-reached in the parti- tion, because the half of the harbour of Dublin, which he observed to be commodious for traf- fick and fishing, did not faU within his portion : to recover which, he again commenced hostili- ties, when he and bis army were surprised by the Irish monarch, and put to the sword. 16 CHAPTER II. THE ORIGIN, N.AME, AND EARLY HISTORY Of DUBLIN. The annals of the City of Dublin, like those of other nations, are involved in impenetrable obscurity ; the records of the country having become a prey to the fuiy of northern barba- rian invaders, who were for some centuries the scourge of the land, and who sought with re- lentless rage, the destruction of every vestige of its origin and ancient greatness. To point out, therefore, the precise period of its origin, would be a vain attempt, and unreasonable to be expected, if it be considered that few cities are laid out at once but, from the advantages of trade, natural situation, and other favourable circumstances, they receive a gradual increase, though they may, at first, have been nothing more than villages or fishing towns. The an- cient Irish were at no trouble in fortifying cities, or providing for themselves habitations of last- ing materials : they were destitute of all the conveniences which we would consider essen- tial to the comfort of a civilized people ; their houses were constructed of wattles and twigs, plaistered on the sides, or covered with turf or rushes. Their towns and villao-es were probably no more than a number of huts placed at a little distance from ©ach other, in the middle of a wood ; the avenues to which were defended by ramparts of eaith, and felled trees laid across each other. The Firbolgs lived a great part of the year in artificial caves, in which chambers were formed with dry stones, and arched over head. Many of these have been discovered in different parts of the country. The first authentic notice we have of the City of Dublin, is found in the writings of Ptolemy, who flourished in the reign of Anto- nius Pius, about the year 1 10, of the Christian era, though some writers say that it was founded by the Danes, about the time of the birth of our Saviour. He called it Eblana Civitas, or as some think, Dtblana Civitas. Dehlana is suj3- posed to be derived from the Irish words diihk, signifying black, and limi, a pool of water, in consequence of the bed of the Lilfey at this place being of a boggy nature, and thereby causing the water to have a blackish hue. The Irish have called it, Droni-Q//oll-eoil, which 18 mcang (he brow of tbe b.-izei wood : and at the present day they call it Ballagh-Ath-Cliath, which signifies the road over the Ford of Hur- dles ; for before the River LifFey was embanked by quays, people had access to it by means of hurdles laid on the marshy parts adjoining the river. The inhabitants ol Fingal, towards the north of the city, called it Diveliny and the Welsh Dulin. Irish writers inform us of many baltleo having been fought for the possession of it, between Conn, King of Ireland, and Eugene, King of Munster, about the latter end of the second century, which terminated in the death of the latler. In the year 838, the Danes, or Ostmen, {Ea stern-men f) entered the River Liffey with a fleet of sixty sail, under \\\e command of Tur- gesius, when Dublin submitted to them for the first time, but there is reason to believe that they were in the habit of visiting Ireland for centuries previous to that period. As soon as the Danes had got possession of the city, they erected a strong rath, or fort, for the purpose of keeping the citizens in subjec- tion, and shortly after extended their conquests through Fingal to the North, and to Bray and the mountains of Wicklow on the South ; but T9 Ibey were driven from Dublin by (he Iribh in the year 845. Not dispirited by this defeat, they returned a^ain in a few years, when they took the city by storm, and encompassed it with walls to protect them from the incursions of the Irish. The conduct of Turgesius towards the Irish under his dominion, was marked by the most savage cruelty, and diabolical licentiousness ; for he not only passed a law, by which every master of a family was obliged to pay into his treasury an ounce of gold, in failure of which his nose was publicly cut off; but he even had it enacted, that every bride should lie, the first night after her marriage, with the captain of the district in which she resided, unless he chose to accept a stipulated sum in lieu of her compliance. Every church or monastery, that was not devoted to the flames, was placed at the disposal of the pagan priests who accompa- nied his savage army; and these sacred edifices now resounded with the praises of their deities, Woden, Thor, and Friga: but the rage of the conqueror was particularly directed against every seminary and monument of learn- ing, so that their colleges and writings were involved in one common destruction. 20 Previous to this period, Ireland had been so much distinguished for literature and men of learning, that several universities were founded in it in the fifth century, of which Armagh, Lismore, and Clonard, appear to have been the most celebrated. The immortal Alfred is said to have studied at the college of Lismore, and to have boasted, that he acquired there that knowledge which has rendered his name illus- trious through succeeding ages. The college of Armagh is stated to have been founded by St. Patiick, and to have ranked for many cen- turies amongst the most celebrated seminaries in Europe, having no less than seven thousand students, at one period, within its walls. At these seminaries all foreigners were entertained and educated gratuitously, being provided with books and every other necessar}'. We are informed that the most respectable families of every nation in Europe sent their sons then to Ireland to receive their education. The manner in which the Irish were at length happily delivered from the oppressive yoke of Turgesius, developes, in the most hideous co- lours, the character of that tyrannical monster. The Irish monarch had a daughter remarkable for her beautv, and the ruthless invader insisting 21 on the possession of her person, no alternative remained, but submission or revolt. The king, however, disguising his indignation, appeared to be honored by the proposal, and concerted a plan, which rid his country of the greatest scourge with which it had ever been oppressed. He selected fifteen young men of distinguish- ed valour, who accompanied the princess on the night appointed, attired as young ladies, each having a short sword under his robe ; and when Turgesius, and fifteen of his chosen chieftains, advanced with eagerness to the banquetting room to receive them, the Irish youths, faithful to their instructions, drawing their swords, put every one of the chieftains to death, except Turgesius, whom they bound with cords, brought for that purpose, and on giving a signal from the window, the Irish king, with a band which he had convenient, rushed upon the guard sword in hand, and, after putting the whole garrison to death, led away the tyrant loaded with irons, and threw him into prison. He was shortly after drawn in chains to Lough Ainnin, into which he was thrown bound, from a consider- able height, where he perished in the presence of a multitude of rejoicing spectators. 2^ This overthrow, however, only put an end to the power of the Danes in Ireland for a short period; for they soon after returned with a considerable force, under the command of three brothers, and again became masters of Dublin ; but in the latter end of the reign of Hugh VI. who ascended the throne in 863, the Danes were overthrown by the Irish, who regained the possession of the city. In the year 919, the country was again invaded by the Danes, under Sitricus, when a bloody battle was fought near the city, which was taken by storm, and Niall, the Irish king, was slain. In the year 944, the Irish assaulted, took, plundered and burned Dublin, having slain four thousand Ostmen there, and put the remainder of them, with their king, Blacar, to flight; but the next year, he, having levied a large body of men from among his countrymen, regained the city, and repaired it; and the year following, the Ostmen, to revenge their late losses, laid waste a great part of Meath. In 947, the Ostmen were driven back from Meath by Congelacb, king of Ireland ; and in the year following, having renewed the war, they were again defeated with the loss of six- teen hundred men among whom was their 23 king, Blacar. In 950, the Ostmen of Dublin plundered Slane and burned it to the ground ; but on their return the next year, after having wasted a great part of Meath, they were inter- cepted by the Irish, and put to flight, with the loss of six thousand men. In the reign of Malachy IT. who ascended the throne in 980, the Irish besieged the city, and carried it by assault ; and the Danes were not only obliged to abandon a great portion of their conquests, but even to submit to the payment of a large annual tribute. In 985, the Ostmen of Dublin made an irruption northward, as far as Derry, and behaved with such cruelty, that they spared neither clergyman nor layman that fell into their hands. In 999, Brian Boru, the valiant Irish king, subdued the Ostmen of Dublin at Glenanin, and from thence marched to Dublin, which he took and plundered. The next year we find the Danes again masters of the city, at which time they repaired the walls and built new for- tifications ; and five years after, king Melaghlin set the suburbs on fire, but could make no impression on the walls. Among the Irish monarchs, there was no one who ik*:o.vledged by the Irish chieftains, the Brit- monarch, after ordering a castle to be erected •Dui liii, embarked at Wexford, on Easter lay, 1173, in consequence of the rebellion oi ill;? son, and a plague and scarcity which then prevailed in this country. In 1175, an expedition under Strongbow against the Irish, who had renounced their al- legiance, was attacked near Thurles, by Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick, on which occasion four hundred of the citizens of Dublin were slain. This success so elevated the spirits of Roderick O'Connor, that he crossed the Shan- non, and laid waste the country to the very Wcdis of the metropolis ; but he was obliged to retire with such precipitation to his own province, that the English could only annoy his rear guard. Roderick's spirit was at length so much broken down by repeated misfortunes, that he consented to do homage, and pay an annual tribute, as liege man to the King of England ; and on these conditions he was permitted to retain the sove- reignty of his own province ; but he was shortly after forced, bv bin undutiful sons, who had 34 taken up arms against him, to seek relu«;e i the Monastery of Cong, in the County AI a\ where, after a seclusion of twelve years, ■ breathed his last, at an advanced old age, and with him terminated the reign of the Irish prince? of the Mile&ian race. •{;* — ■ CHAPTER IV. ANNALS OF DUBLIN FROM THE DEPARTURE OF HENRY II. TO THE END OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY. 1177. Earl Strongbow died of a mortifica- tion in his foot, and was buried in Christ Church, where a monument was erected to his memory. The same year, Vivian, the Pope's legate, held a synod at Dublin, at which he denounced ex- communication against all who should withdraw their allegiance from the King of England. 1178. A relic called Jesus's Staff, was re- moved by the chief governor of Ireland from Armagh to Dublin, and deposited in Christ Church, which brought great gain to the canons of that Church. 85 ] 185. The chief governor of Ireland marched body of forces from Dublin to Armagh, which plundered for six days together, and returned Without loss to Dublin. 1190. Great part of Dublin was consumed by an accidental fire. 1 1 95. The body of Hugh de Lacy, who had been basely murdered at Darrow,m the Queen's County, in 1186, was removed, and buried at Bective, in the County of Meath ; but his head was deposited in the Abbey of Saint Thomas, near Dublin. 1205. Kiu^ John o'ave orders to Mvler Fitz-Henry, the Lord Justice, to erect a castle in Dublin, in such place as he should think proper, to defend the same, and to secure it with strong walls. 1210. King John arrived in Dublin with a considerable army, and having divided the country into counties, erected courts of judica- ture in the city, and appointed judges, circuits, and corporations, as in England. By his com- mand pence and farthings were coined of the same standard and fineness as those of England. On this new coin was the King's head in a c2 36 triangle, inscribed Johannes Rex, and c ' reverse, a crescent and bright planet, with smaller stars in the three angular points o ther triangle, with the mint master's RoBERD ON Dive, for Divelin, the nat the city at that time. 1215. The king granted a licence to the citizens of Dublin to erect a bridge over the LifFey, where they should think proper. 1217. Henry ill. granted a fee-farm of the City of Dublin to the citizens, at two hundred marks rent, being c£133 6s^ 8d. sterling. 1224. The citizens made a voluntary loan to Henry III. of three hundred and sixty six marks, to forward an expedition against Hugh de Lacy, who was forced to make submission. The same year, the king granted fifty marks towards walling the city, being the deficiency of a grant made for that purpose, of three i)ence for every sack of wool, six pence for every last of hides, and two pence for every barrel of wine sold in the city. 1251. Henry III. cassed a new coin to be issued in Dublin, and called in the old. 12(56. A great earthquake was felt in Ire? ud, which being a thing vrry uncommon, ex- ited great terror among the inhabitants. The v»ar following, great disputes arose between Archbishop of Dublin and the citizens, spectiiig oblations made in the churches ; and vo such a height were these contentions carried, that the city was put under an interdict, and a commission was sent by the Pope's legate, then in London, to the Bishops of Lismore and Waterford, to denounce the mayor and citizens, excommunicate by bell, book and candle, in all places within the city and province of Dubliii. The next summer a composition was made, in which, among other things, it was agreed, that " if any citizen committed a public sin, he should, for the said offence, commute for a sum of money. If he continued in his sin, and the same were enormous and public, that then he should be cudgelled about the church. That for a third offence, he should be publicly cudgelled before the procession made to Christ Church, or St. Patricks ; and if, after this pen- ance, he should persist in his t-iii, the mayor and bailiffs, on receiving due notice, should either turn him out of the citv. or cudirel him through it.'' 38 x J279. By the command of Edward I. ati alteration was made in the coin, which provod highly beneficial to the kingdom. In this king's reign there were four mints in Dublin. J 282. High-street was burned ; and on the second of January following, the greatest part of the city was consumed by an accidental fire, which destroyed the steeple, chapter-house, dormitory, and cloisters of Christ Church. K30i. A great part of the city, together with St. Werburgh's Church, was accidentally burned down on St. Colunib's eve. 1304. The city was again visited by an acci- dental fire, on the 1 3th of J une, when, among many other places, Bridge- street, the Quay, the church of the Dominicans, and one quarter of Saint Marys Abbey, were consumed; in the , latter, many of the records in chancery were destroyed, it being at that time the repository. The frequent occurrence of such accidents at this period will not appear extraordinary, when we consider the combustible nature of the ma- terials with which the citizens constructed their habitations. 130o. The mayor of Dublin was fined, and :i9 Dmmitted to \\w Tower of London, iu conso- iif^nce ol" not being: able to substantiate charges hic'h lie had preferred against the treasurer iid barons; of the exchequer. 1308. William Mred of them were killed and given to tlie poor. 1333. The harvest was so ear!^- and abun- 4Z daiit, that on the 29th of Jiuie wheat was sold ill the Dublin market at six pence a bushel. A Parliament was assembled this summer, in a convent of the Carmelites; during which, as the members were retiring, Murrough M'Nichol Tool was murdered in the crowd, by some per- son unknown. K^38. The frost was so great,from the 2nd of December to the 1 0th of February, that the River LifFey was frozen over, so hard as to bear dan- cing, playing foot-ball, and making lires to broil herrings on. The depth of snow that fell dur- ing this frost is incredible. 1342. A remarkable phenomenon is said to have been seen by many persons about Dublin, on the 1 1 th of October. Two moons appeared in the firmament before day-break; the one bright, and, according to its natural course, in the west — the other in the east, with very little light. The year following, St. Thomas-street was burned by an accidental fire. 1318. A great pestilence broke out at How tb and Dalkey, which raged with such vio- lence in the City of Dublin, that fourteen thous- and persons are said to have fallen victims to its ra\ ages, from the beginning of August to Christmas. 1359. The business of the court of King's 4.3 li(»ru*li hcing- lomitl too aiucii for oni^ jti^^*^ to dispatch, VVilliaai Petit was appointed a ;!C'Cond justice, and a salary of £40. per aiumra allowed him, with liberty to practice as a lawyer. 1361. The city had a loss by the removal of the exchequer to Carlow. On the 6th of April, the year following, Saint Patrick's Church was? burned by the negligence of the sexton. A few years after it was rebuilt, and the present steeple added to it by Archbishop Minot. 1370. A great number of tlie nobility, gen- try, and citizens, were carried oft* by a violent pestilence, and thirteen years after, the city was again visited by a very malignant disorder of the same kind, by which a great many perished. 139 1. Richard I J . landed at Waterford with an army of 34,000 men, and marched to Dublin, where he remained to the ensuing summer, re- ceiving, in his progress, the submission of the Irish of Leinster. During the winter he is said to have held a Parliament, to have redressed many grievances, and to have made a grant of one penny from each house, yearly, to repair the bridge and streets. 1399. King Richard II. having returiied to Ireland, made his public entry into Dublin on D 44 the 28th of J uue, and was nobly entertained by the provost and citizens. He soon after returned to England, where he was deposed and murdered. — c-©« CHAPTER V. REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES IN THE HISTORY OF DUBLIN, DURING THE FIFTEENTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURFES. 1 402. J ohn Drake, mayor of Dublin, at the head of a strong body of well-armed citizens, marched out against the O' Byrnes, and other Irish rebels, of whom, on the 11th of July, they slew, near Bray, according to Campion, 4000, but Marleburg reduces the number to 493. For the merit of this action, the citizens elected Drake mayor for the succeeding year. 1 405. The citizens fitted out a fleet of barks, with which they ravaged the coasts of Scotland and Wales. The succeeding year they marched oat their forces on Corpus Christi day against the Irish, whom they routed, and brought home two standards, with the heads of those that were slain, which they fixed on the city gates. In 45 consequence of this, and former services, Henry IV. the next year conferred upon Tho- mas Cusack, and his successors, the title of mayor, and granted his licence that a gilded sword should be borne before them for ever, in the same manner as in London. 142S. The old bridge was rebuilt by the Dominicans, for the convenience of their school at Usher's Island, and a toll of a penny received for every carriage and beast of burden passing over it. 1434. The mayor and citizens humbled themselves on the 4th of March, and did pen- ance, by walking barefooted through the streets ; first to Christ-Church, next to Saint Patrick's, and then to Mary's Abbey, humbly begging pardon for the offences they had committed, in the said churches. The crime alleged against them was, for breaking open the doors of Saint Mary's Abbey, and carrying out the abbot by the head and feet, like a corpse. 1447. A great number of the citizens died of a plague and famine, which afflicted all parts of the kingdom. 1452. The Liffey was dry for the space of two minutes. 1461. A violent tempest threw down the great east window of Christ-Chureli, the stones of which broke to pieces many chests and cof- fers, in which the jewels, relics, ornaments juid vestments of the altar, with the deeds and monuments of the church, were deposited, and the foundation charter of Henry II. and others were so lacerated, that the former was no longer legible. 1466. Another plague wasted Dublin and the adjacent country ; and in the year 1484, the city was again visited with a similar calamity, which carried off great numbers. 1486. Lambert Simnel, an impostor, was crowned in Christ-Church, by the name of Edward VI. and the next year the mayor and citizens made an apology to the king for th -ir misconduct in assisting at the coronation. 1493. Several eminent citizens were killed in a riot on Ox man town-green, and the mayor of the city, John Serjant, was committed to prison. The cause of his committal is not mentioned. 1496. Jenico Marks, iFho had been mayor of Dublin in 1486, was killed in Keyser*s-Iane, while endeavouring to quell a riot of the citi- zens. 1504. The Lord Deputy Eildare marched out of Dublin at the head of a iarge body of weii-aimed citizens, to oppose a confederacy entered into by Burke of Clanrickard, and se- veral other Irish chieftains. Being joined by the whole power of the Pale, and several Irish lords, he attacked the enemy on the 19th of August, at Knocktuogh, near Aughrim; and, after a severe contest which long continued doubtful, he defeated the Irish, who lost on the occasion upwards of four thousand men, and had a great number taken prisoners. The Earl returned to Dublin with little loss, and on his arrival distributed among his army one hundred and twenty hogsheads of wine. 1512. A quarrel having taken place between the citizens of Dublin and the Earl of Ormond's army, at a meetiDg in Saint Patrick's Church, the former discharged a volley of arrows at the latter, some of which stuck in the images ; the matter was afterwards investigated by a legate sent from the Pope, and the citizens were ab- solved ; but, in detestation of the fact, the mayor was obliged to walk bare-footed through the city in open procession, before the sacrament, on Corpus Christi day, yearly. This punish- ment was enforced until the time of tlie Refor- mation. 48 1525. Dublin was visited by a plague, which destroyed numbers of the inhabitants. Three years after this, a pestilential disease, called the sweating sickness, carried off the Archbishop, the Lord Chancellor, and a great number of citizens. 1534. The Earl of Kildare, Lord Deputy, having been summoned to England to answer for some alleged misconduct, a report was cir- culated that he was beheaded. His son, Lord OfFaley, who had been left Deputy in his ab- sence, enraged at the intelligence, determined on open rebellion. At the head of one hundred and forty horsemen, in shirts of mail, with silken fringes about their head-pieces, he rode through the city, and passing through Dame's-gate, went over the ford of the river to Mary's Abbey, where, surrendering the sword to the council, be bid defiance to the king and his ministers. The council incited the citizens to seize Fitz- Gerald, but they, either from inability or attach- ment to his family, remained for some time inactive. Soon after this, Fitz-Gerald asked permission to march his soldiers through the city, for the purpose of laying siege to the castle, promising that the inhabitants should receive no injury. The citizens, after despatch- 49 ing an alderuiaii to the king to liiiovr bi« plea- sure, consulted the constable of the castle, and he consented to the demand, provided he w»is sufficiently supplied with men and provisions to stand a siege. This was cheerfully complied with by the citizens, who agreed to Fitz-GeraJd's demands, and he accordingly sent in six hundred men, who planted two or three pieces of artil- lery opposite the castle gate, intrenched them- selves, and, to frighten the constable to a sur- render, they threatened to place the children of some of the citizens, whom they had seized at school in the country, on the tops of the trenches, as marks at which the garrison would be unwilling to aim. The citizens in the mean time having received promises of assistance from the king, resolved to stand upon their defence, and secure, if possible, the traitors within the walls. Accordingly they shut the gales, and the enemy, seeing these precautions, attempted to escape by fording the river, but the greater part were taken prisoners. Fitz-Gerald, who was at this time ravaging the County of Kil- kenny, having received intelligence of these events, returned in haste to Dublin, where, in order to distress the citizens, he cut off the pipes which supplied the city with water, and 50 laid siege to the castle Th Sheeji-btreet. Being driven from this quarter by the ordnance of the castle, he removed to Thomas-street, and at- tempted to enter the city by New-gate. He then set New-street on tire ; but the citizens at length, after reporting from the wall that suc- cours had arrived from England, sallied out through fire and flame, and obliged the enemy to retreat, leaving one hundred gallowglasses slain, which obliged Fitz-Gerald to raise the siege. For the bravery displayed by the citizens on this occasion, the king granted them a con- siderable estate in the counties of Dublin, Meath, Louth, Kildare, Tipperary, Kilkenny, and other places in Ireland, which had belonged to the dissolved monastery of A 11- Hallows, near Dublin, with many other important privileges. 1535. George Brown, an Augustin Friar, was consecrated Archbishop of Dublin, and was the first of the Irish Clergy who renounced the supremacy of the Pope, and acknowledged that of the King. He removed all images and relics out of the dilferent churches, and in their room placed the Creed, the Lord's Prayer, and the Ten Conpniandments in gilt frames. 51 J511. The Irii^h Parliament enacted a sta- tute, prohibiting noblemen from wearing more than twenty cubits or bandies of linen in their shirts, and another to prevent the natives from dying their shirts a saffron colour, which had been their usual custom. 1547. The Byrnes and Tooles, assisted by some outlaws of the Fitz-Geralds, taking ad- vantage of the change of government, and the infancy of Edward VJ. made incnrsions into the neighbourhood of Dublin, and harrassed the citizens. Sir Anthony St. Leger, lord deputy, marched out a body of the standing array, aided by a considerable party of the city militia, and attacking the eii^>-hou?e. 56 1640. A committee of the House of Com- mons went over to England to impeach the Earl of Strafford of various crimes alleged to have been committed by him during his government. 1641. An attempt was made to surprise the Castle of Dublin on .the 23rd of October, by the Lord Maguire and other conspirators, who had fomented a rebellion throughout the king- dom, but their design was happily frustrated by the discovery of Owen 0"Connolly, and the vigilance of the Lords Justices. Preparations were made for a siege, and the greatest alarm and fear prevailed in the city, but several of the conspirators were apprehended, and some of them afterwards executed. Great numbers of the English, who had been cruelly stripped by the Roman Catholics in distant parts of the country, fled at this time to the city for j.rotec- tion. The same year, part of the city walls fell, and were left unrepaired by the citizens, until the Lords Justices sent them £40 for that purpose. 1642. The Lords Justices ordered the citi- zens to bring in half of their piate to be coined for the necessary exigencies of the army ; in consequence of which, £1200 worth was U'ouaht into the mint. 57 1616. The PojMj's Nuncio advanced, at the head of a considerable array, to besiege the city, but was obliged to desist, frora want of provisions. The next year, the Marquis of Ornaond, then Lord Lieutenant, was compelled, by extreme necessity, to surrender the city to the English Parliament, rather than let it fall into the hands of the ccnfederaled Irish rebels ; King Charles having completely lost his power. 1647. Owen Rce burned the country about Dublin, and so great was the conflagration, that two hundred fires were seen from one steeple. The next year, the walls and fortifications of the city were repair^vj ;uid 5:trengthened by the governor. Colonel Jones. 1649. The I^Iarquis of Ormond besieged the city, but the governor raided the siege by an unexpected and snccessful sully, in which tlie Marquis had four thousand of his men killed, and two thousand five htmdred and seventeen taken prisoners, and he escaped with diflficulty. The same month Oliver Cromwell landed in Dublin, as Lord Lieutenant, and commander-in- chief under the Parliament, with thirteen tliou- siind men, and shortly after sot out with ten tbo'L^and men to besiege Diooheda. The nv\t 5S year the city \ras again \if)((:d l.y a plagur, which carried away many of the citizens. 1652. A High Court of Justice was ap- pointed in Dublin, for the trial of such persons as had been guilty of murder during the rebel- lion, in which Sir Phelim O'Neill, and others, were condemned and executed. 1659. A party of general officers, favourable to the royal cause, seized the Castle of Dublin, and declared for a free Parliament. It was retaken by Sir Hardress Waller, but he was obliged to surrender it in five days. The king's declaration, which arrived shortly after from Breda, was accepted, and the Restoration ac- complished. The next year, the king, in token of his approbation, granted the city a collar of S. S. and bestowed a foot company on Robert Dee, the mayor. 1663. The Duke of Ormond, then Lord Lieutenant, detected a cons^piracy entered into by Jephson, Blood, Abbot, Warner, and some other discontented officers, for seizing the Castle of Dublin : but their design was frus- trated, and four of the conspirators executed. 1665. The chief magistrate of Dublin was honoured with the title of Lord Mayor — Sir Daniel Bellingham being the first on whom that 59 honor was conferred — and the king granted to the city £500 per annum, for ever, to support that dignity. 1668. The spire of Saint A udoen's steeple was blown down by a storm, and broke the roof of the church. 1670. A great storm caused the sea, during a spring-tide, to overflow the bank at Ring's- end, Lazars-hill, and Hawkins's new wall — the water became so high in the city, that some houses were thrown down by its fury, and many cellars and ware-houses were inundated. The next year the upper gallery of the theatre in Smock-alley fell into the pit, by which three persons were killed, and many wounded. 1678. On the arrival of the news of the Popish plot in England, Peter Talbot, titular Archbishop of Dublin, was imprisoned in Dublin Castle. A proclamation was issued shortly after, ordering all titular Archbishops, Bishop?, all who exercised ecclesiastical jurisdiction under the Pope, with all Jesuits and regular Priests, to qnit the kingdom. The succeeding year another proclamation was issued, for seizing the near relations of Tories, and imprisoning them till such Tories be killed or taken; also, for iijjprehending the Parish I'ricst where a 60 robbery is committed, in order that the criminals may be taken or discovered. Two years after this, Oliver Plnnket, the titular Primate, who had been sent over to England, was executed at Tyburn. 1684. A great part of the Castle was con- sumed by fire on the 7th of April. His Excel- lency the Earl of Arran narrowly escaped : the powder magazine and the record tower were fortunately preserved from injury. 1686. The Earl of Tyrconnell was appointed Lord Lieutenant, and endeavoured to get Ro- man Catholics admitted to freedoms and offices in the city, but was opposed by Sir John Knox, then Lord Mayor, and the Aldermen. The next year a great inundation happened in the River LiiFey, occasioned by excessive rains and a violent storm, which laid the low parts of the cit}' under water, up to the first floors, so that boats plied in the streets, Essex-bridge, which had been built but eleven years before, was broken down by the current, and a coach and horses passing over it, fell into the river. 1688. The severe measures adopted by Tyrconnell against the Protestants, together with the barbarous conduct of Sir Thomas Hacket, the Lord Mayor, towards them, com- 61 failed great nombers (o abandon their estates and concerns, and transport themselves, with as mach of their eWecis as they could carry, to England. Colonel Lnttrell, governor of Dub- lin, and the Lord Chief Justice Nugent, were equally active in barljarity against the Pro- testants. 1689. In the month of February, the Pro- testants of the city were compelled, by military force, to deliver cp their arms and horses. The Earl of Tyrconnell filled the churches with soldiers, and made them military store-houses. In September following, the monuments and graves were opened, and dead bodies tumbled ontof their cofBns, nnder pretence of searching for arms. On the 24lfa of March King James arrived in Dahlia, and the next day called a Parlitunent, which repealed the Act of Settle- ment, and attainted nearly three thousand Protestants of high treason. The students of Trinity College were forcibly ejected, and the College occnpied as a barrack for soldiers. The €?omman3on plate, library, and furniture, were seized, and the chapel coii> erted into a powder magazine. On the 18lh of April, Sir Cloudesley Shovel took a frigate out of the harbour of Dublin, laden with plate and other valuable pro- 62 feryal Visitor took his final departure. — eft — CHAPTER VI r. ANCIENT DUBLIN DESCRUIED, WITH A SKETCH OF THE CUSTOMS, DRESS OF THE CITIZENS, ARMS, WAR-CRY, -AND QUALIFICATIONS OF THE IRISH SOLDIERS. That the Danes, under the denomination of Ostmen, built the City of Dublin, and inhabited it, is a matter which has not been disputed ; vet, from the want of authentic records, the precise time has not been determined. It is, however, a fact which admits no contro- versy, that the Danes erected the walls and fortifications about the city, in the ninth cen- tury. The walls, which were connected by- towers placed in different commanding situa- tions, in their largest extent were not a mile. Commencing at the north tower of the Castle, the wall was carried to Dame's-gate, which stood on Cork-hill. In a nich of stone work over this gate, which was built with towers and a port-cuUis, was placed an image of the Virgin Mary, which remained there to the time of the Reformation. From this gate the wall proceeded in a N.N.W. direction to the river, where New- man* s-tower stood, a little to the west of where Essex-bridge now stands. In the middle of Parliament-street there was a tower, and near it another called Isod's-tower, which was de- molished in 1675, and on its site Essex-gate was erected. From Newman's-tower, the wall was continued along the river to Bridge-street. On Wood-quay stood Fyan's Castle, which was sometimes used as a slate prison. At the end K 68 of Bridge-street was Bridge-gate, erected in 1316, to defend the city against the army of Bruce. It was placed between two turrets, and furnished with a port-cullis. This gate was repaired by Queen Elizabeth, at a considerable expense in 1598. From the river the wall pro- ceeded up the west side of Bridge-street, to Ormond, or Wormwood-gale, at the lower end of New-row. The arch of this gate supported a castle without turrets. From Oimond-gate the wall stretched up a steep hill to New-gate, where there was a prison built in a square form, with a tower at each corner, for the confinement of criminals of the worst description. From New-gate the wall extended along the rere of Back-lane to St. Nicholas's-gate, and in this distance supported three towers: the Watch- tower, near New-gate, so called from a ceutinel being stationed there to guard the prisoners : the Hanging-tower, from its leaning posture towards the suburbs ; and the Round-tower, so called from its figure, and sometimes denomi- nated St. Francis's-tower, from its being placed opposite the garden of the Franciscan friary. From St. Nicholas's-gate the wall was carried 69 between Ross-lane and Bride's-alley, to the end of St. Werburgh-street, where there was another gate called Pole-gate, or more properly. Pool-gate, from a confluence of water which settled in the low ground adjacent. This was afterwards called St. Werburgh's-gate, from its being situated at the end of the street of that name. In the centre, between the two last-named gates, there formerly stood a tower, called St. Geneville's tower. From Pole-gate the wall proceeded nearly in a straight line, until it terminated with the castle at Birming- ham tower, not far from which there was anti- ently a small gate, called St. Austin's-gate, which gave an entrance into the city from Sheep-street, now Ship-street, to Castle-street. Previous to the year 1316, the walls were carried by St. Owens's Church, at a distance of 400 ieet from the river, and Merchant's-quay was then considered as a part of the suburbs; but at that time, Bruce having marched an army to lay siege to the city, a new wall was erected along the river to the Old Bridge, and from thence to New-gate. One of the arches in the old wall may still be seen near Saint Audoen*s Church, on th<» south of Cook-street. 70 The only streets corupreheiided within the wails were Bridge-street, Winetuvem-slreet, Fistiamble-street, Castle-street, Skiuner-row, Hi^h-street, Cook-street, Nicholas-street, «ind Werburgh-street, with the adjacent lanes. The south suburbs included Patrick-street, Bride- street, and Ship-street; the east, Dame-street, George's-Iane and Stephen-street, and a small village called Hogges, which stood on the site of Saint Andrew-street. No part of the north side of the LifFey was built until after 1610, except Church-street, Pill-lane, and Mary's- lane. Within the walls several of the antient streets have been totally annihilated, while others have only changed their names, many of which are only to be met with in old records. The buildings of the city, at an early period, must have been very mean and contemptible ; the Danes, during their residence, having studied temporary' convenience alone in their erection, sought rather to render the city a place of de- fence than to make it ornamental ; nor did much improvement take place in the manner of erect- ing their habitations, until commerce was ijitro- duced with its natural concomitants — ^wealth und 71 politeness. The houses, as already stated, were constructed with wattles daubed with clay, and covered over with sedge or straw. The first castle of stone and lime in Ireland, is said to have been erected at Tuam, by Roderick O'Connor, so late as the year 1161, and it was then looked on as such a novelty, that it got the name of the wonderful castle. Before the time of Elizabeth, the citizens began to erect their houses in a more durable manner, by building them of timber, in the cage- work fashion, handsomely adorned, and covered with slates, tiles, or shingles. Many of these houses were in existence until the middle of the last century. Lime and stone were at that time used only in the erection of castles, towers, churches, and other buildiiigs appropriated to religious purposes. In the reign of James I. habitations began to be erected in a more con- venient form, of stone or bricks, and, from that period, the city has continued progressively to increase in extent, beauty, and the magnilicence of its buildings. Among the early customs practised by the citizens, was that of riding the franchises, or 72 boundaries of the city, at certain intervals. This ceremony was conducted with great pomp, and was intended to point out the precise limits to which the municipal privileges extended, ac- cording to the ancient charter granted by King Henry II. This ceremony is still kept up, but the liberties are now only perambulated every third year. The citizens of Dublin formerly consisted of twenty corporations, among whom it was cus. tomary, at the great annual festivals, to invite the Lord Deputy, the nobility, and other per- sons of distinction, to an entertainment, in which they first diverted them with stage plays on Hoggin-green, and afterwards regaled them with a splendid banquet. The several corpo- rations, upon their respective patron's day, con- sidered themselves obliged to the same obser- vances, which were for a long time very strictly kept up and practised, but at length they gradu- ally fell into disuse, by the introduction of the amusements of the theatre. Another custom which prevailed among the citizens, was that of electing annually an officer who^vas denominated, the mayor of the bull ring. 73 He was appointed guardian of the bachelors of the city, and, during the year of his office, had authority to punish such as frequented brothel- houses, and ^uch infamous places. He took his name from an iron ring in Corn-market, formerly Newgate-stree(, to which the butchers fastened their bulls for baiting ; and when any bachelor-citizen happened to marry, the mayor of the bull ring and his attendants conducted the bridegroom, upon his return from church, to the ring, and there, with a solemn kiss, re- ceived his homage and last farewell ; from whence the new-married man took the mayor and sheriffs of the bull ring home to dinner with him, unless he was poor; in which case a a collection was made, and given to him at arment, which reached to the middle of the lhigfh,and had a biro*^ bana^insf hood of different colours ; it was frinj^ed with a border like shagged hair, and being brought over the shoulders, was made fast on the breast by a clasp or buckle. The fillead was a kind of mantle, which beinf^ thrown on the shoulders, spread over the whole body. The mantles of the higher classes were made of the finest scirlet cloth, bordered with a silken or woollen fringe ; but those of the inferior orders were of frieze of a dark colour, with a fringed or shagged border 5-ewed down the edges. The head-dress wa-s a conical cap called the ftr/rra^/, nearly resembling that of our present grenadiers. The feet were covered by the brogue, made of half-tanned leather, and consisted of a single sole, level from toe to heel, which they bound to the foot by a latchet or thong. They paid great attention to their beards and the hair of Iheir heads; the latter they threw back from their foreheads, and permitted it to flow about the neck iu what they called glibbs. The female dress differed little from the mule, except that the mantles of the former were lon<:er and worn over a long gown. The unmarried women went bareheaded, with their hair either hanging down their b.ick, or filleted up and fastened with a bodkin. The married wore a veil or kerchief on their head, made of fine or coarse linen, according to their circumstances. The mantles and glibbs were such peculiar objects of abhorrence to the English, that Henry VIII. in 1539, issued a proclamation prohibi- ting, under certain penalties, the wearing of glibbs, or hair upon the upper lip, called crotu- 7neal ; also the wearing of mantles, or any garment dyed with saffron, in order that the Irish might be ijiduced (o a conformity " with them that be civil people." Hats were not in- troduced into Ireland until the beginning of the seventeeth century, and the first Jri^hman who wore a wig, was a Mr. O'Dwyer, who lost his estate by opposing Cromw*»ll, from Mhich circuaistaiice ho got the aj)pellatioii of "Edmund of the Wig." At the tirae of the Englijrh inv;ision, the Irish soldiers were armed wilh short lances, darts, and broad axes, exceedingly well steeled ; the latter they are said to have used with such dexterity, that the whole thigh of a soldier, though cased incomplete armour, has been fre- quently lopped off by a tfingle blow. In the reign of Edward III. the Irish Infantry con- sisted of gall owji' lasses and kerns; the former wore an iron head-piece, and a coat of mail, and were armed with a long sword and a pole- axe ; the latter were a kind of light-infantry, who fought with darts and javelins, and some- times \\ith swords, and a species of knife called skeyns. Another military weapon is mentioned which they called krann fabhal, a wooden sling with which they cast stones to a great distance, with great dexterity and preci- sion. Fire arms were not known in Ireland until the year 1189, when six muskets were brought from Germany to Dublin, and presented to the Earl of Kildare, then lord deputy, w ho put liiera into the hands of his guards, as they stood centinei before his hou^e in Thomas-street. The Irish phiced their ciiief coiilidence in that impetuous fury with which they attacked the enemy; they generally advanced to the sound of military music, and the martial cry of Farak, Farah, which is conjectured to mean fail on, the word in the Irish language signi- fyiiio- force or violence. Afterwards, when factions universally prevailed, every chief of a sept had his peculiar war-cry, which generally terminated with the word aboe, which is sup- posed to have meant the cause of the chieftain; thus the cry of theO'Neils was, Lajiik-derg-aboe, that is, huzza for red liand :— ihe O'Briens, Lainh-laider-ahoe ; huzza for strong hand . — ihe Bourkes, Galriagh-aboe ; huzza for the red Englishman : — the Hiffernans, Ceart-na-suas- aboe ; huzza for the right from above: — the Knight of Kerry, Farri-buidhe-aboe ; huzza for the yellow troop ; — and the Fitz-Geralds, Croni- aboe ; huzza for Crora, supposed to be the castle of Crom, in the County of Limerick. The war cries of particular families were productive of such eviis, that an Act of Parliament was passed in the year 1494, for their abolition. The qualifications necessary to gain admit- tance into the Irish army, in the third century, v/ere quite in conformity with the marvellous exploits which have been attributed to the sol- diers under the command of Finn Mac Ccmhall. 78 K\e)y c.'iiidid.Lte \vn> required to possej^s a poeti- rn! genius, to defend iiimself unhurt against tijp javelins of nine soldieri^, to ran through a wood pursued by a company of militia without heingf overtaken, to leap over a tree as high as his forehead, and to stoop easily under another as low us his knees. He was also obliged, after taking- the oath of allegiance, to promise that he would never marry a woman for the sake of her portion, never offer violence to a female, never turn his back upon nine men of any other nation, and that he would lie charitable to the poor. ^ »Cc CHAPTER VITl. THE RKLlftlON, WAKES, ASD FUNERAL CERB- '.MONFES OF THE ANCIENT IRISH, AND THE INTUODUCTION OF CHRISTIANITY. Thf. religion of the pagan Irish, which ap- pears from the most remote period to have been *;Iosely connected with the i^tate, was Druidism. They seem to have paid adoration to the sun, the moon, and the other celestial luminaries, and they also had their mountain and river deities, Jupiter wa^ worshipped under the name of Crom-cruadh, cruim beiao- obsololo lri:jh ft>r thunder. The siiii was called Beal, or LV//;?, and on the first of May the Druid5 lighted fires on the summits of the highest hills, to which they drove their cattle, using, at the same time, certain expiations for the sins of the people. The design of these fires appears to have been to keep away contagious disorders from them during the year. On this day, which is still called Bealteuie, the inhabitants of Ireland ex- tingiiished all their fires, and kindled them again out of those made by the Druids. The great fire of Samhuin, or the moon, was lighted up on the first of November. The Druids performed the ceremonies of their religion in groves, under the spreading boughs of the oak, from whence their name is derived •, the word dear being the name of that tree in the Irish language. Their mode of worship is said to have been first introduced by the Phoenicians, who derived it from the Egyp- tians. The immortality of the soul appears to have been one of their principal maxims, but as they deemed it unlawful to commit their myste- ries to writing, we have but scanty information respecting their doctrines. Some writers have a.«serted that their religion was very simple, and F 80 that no vidims bled on their altars; but Caesar affirms that they offered human sacrifices, and taught the people that the deities could not be otherwise appeased than by devoting the life of one man for that of another. They sometimes made hollow osier images of very large dimen- sions, which, having filled with living men, they set on fire, and burned the enclosed victims to death. They believed that the execution of those who were convicted of any crime was the most ticceptable to the gods; but when such could not be procured, they did not spare the innocent. It was customary at the Irish wakes, for a female, generally a relative, to sing the virtues «f the dead, the exploits of his ancestors, every beneficejit action of the family, their honors of old and noble deeds, exciting the friends of the deceased to emulate his virtues. At the con- clusion of each stanza, the chief mourner was accompanied by a chorus of females, in a very pathetic but pleasing strain, which greatly af- fected the hearers. VV^omen were sometimes hired for the purpose of lamenting and praising the dead ; they were called Mna caoine, women that mourn: some of the Irish believe, even at the present day, that the caoine, or beansighe. 81 that is, the fairy woman, after her decease appears again, at the approaching dissolution of any of the family to which she was attached, and is heard to lament the event in the most pleasing and melancholy strains. The way in which they made known to their neighbours that they intended to take out the corpse to the grave, was by the cry called the fullelugh, which signifies blood by recital, and this cry was raised in order to assemble a sufficient number for the purpose. This custom arose from the paucity of the inhabitants, and the country being over- gro\ni with woods. When the corpse was deposited in the grave, the Druids performed all the solemn rites prescribed by their religion ; the chief Secmcha, or antiquarian, then recited the pedigree of the deceased, if a person of dii?finction, until he came to the first source. The Jrd Filidh, or chief poet, in a species of poetry called canine, or lamentation, used only on such occasions, proclaimed his virtues, bravery, and hospitality. This was succeeded by a great cr^-, when every one passing by the grave, threw a stone on it. The latter custom still prevails in many parts of Ireland, when any person has been murdered, or killed by accident, and is in accordance with the maxim 83 of Pythagoras, " Lociis lapidibits obrtiendtts nbi sanguis himiamis sparsus est ;"* that is, the place where human blood has been shed is to be covered with stones. The heaps thus raised were called Leachd, or Carn, and often were increased to a great size, by the daily contribu- tions of the passing traveller. By whom the standard of the cross was first planted in Ireland is a circumstance which, in all probability will never be ascertained; it is, however, a fact which scarcely admits of a doubt, that Christianity was introduced into the country long before the mission of our patron saint. Ingenious arguments have been ad- vanced to support the hypothesis, that Saint Paul planted the first Christian churches both in Britain and Ireland, while it has been con- tended that this happy event was accomplished by missionaries from the Asiatic churches, who were probably disciples of Irenaeus, the pupil of Polycarp, who had learned of Saint Ignatius, the immediate disciple of Saint John. This opinion is strongly corroborated by the agree- ment of the practices of the early Christians with the Asiatic churches, particularly with res- pect to the tonsure and the time of celebrating Easter. Mr. Grose states, that Polycarp sent 83 missionaries to disseminate the Gospel in the western and northern parts of Europe, who set- tied episcopacy, and gave a pure and uncor- rupted ritual to their converts. Their liturgy, cursus, or office, agreed with the Greek, and the religion of the Irish continued for ten centuries different from that of Rome, which affords strong evidence that the Irish receiv- ed the Gospel not from Roman, but from Greek missionaries. Irish ecclesiastics are mentioned as having visited other parts of Eu- rope, previous to the year 314, particularly St. Dermit and St. Liberius, who were succeeded by Ailbe, Kiarau, Declan, and Ibar, in the work of disseminating the Gospel. We have also the authority of St. Jerome, that there was a Christian Church in Ireland in the fourth century. Palladius appears to have been the first missionary sent from Rome to this country. He arrived here in the beginning of the fifth century, and seems to have had no other success than the conversion of a few of the heathen Irish, and the erection of three wooden churches, when he left the country in disgust. He was succeeded by Saint Patrick, who is generally admitted to have been the instrument of diffusing the religion of the Gospel, which had been al- 84 ready partially introduced by others, throughout the whole island. St. Patrick, according to Ussher, was born in the year 372, at a place now called Kirk-patrick near Glasgow. He was the son of a deacon, and grandson of a priest, which proves that the clergy were not, at that time, prohibited from marriage. In his sixteenth year he was carried into Ireland by some Irish pirates who sold him to Milcho, prince of Dalriada, a territory in Ulster. Here he continued six years in servitude, during which he became master of the Irish language. Having at length effected his escape from Ire- land, he went to France, where he was ordained a deacon, and, passing into Germany, received priests' orders. He remained on the Continent until he was in his sixtieth year, when he re- ceived information of the failure of the mission of Palladius. This intelligence revived a de- sire which he had long cherished for the conver- sion of the Irish ; and having received authority from Pope Celestine at Rome he set out in 432, on the mission with twenty assistants, who were men of great piety and learning. On his way through Britain he is said to have increased the number of his attendants to thirty-four. With these he landed at the poitnow called Arklow, 85 where Siiiell, a Chief of Leinster, became his convert; but being strong-ly opposed by the other j)agan chieftans in this quarter, he and his companions were forced to return to their ship. He then steered his course for that part of Ulster which had been the scene of his for- mer captivity. The first fruits of his ialK)urs ru the county of Down was the conversion of Dichu, a chief of that country, vvho manifested his sincerity by erecting, near Dundrum, a church, which has since been denominated the Abbey of Saul. After this he and his companions preached the Gospel in various parts with wonderful success. In the second year of his mission he repaired to Tcirah, where tiie convention of the Kingdom was then assembled, and by his faithful preaching of the Gospel, the King, Logarry, his Queen, several of the nobility, and some learned men were led to emijrace Christianity. This important event so facilitated the further progress of the missionaries, that thousands are said to have been baptized by them in a single day. In the year 141, he is said to have taken possession of Drum Sailech, now called Armagh, where he laid out a city, and built a Cathedral. Three years afterwards he passed into Britain, where having borne 86 zealous testimony against the Pelagian and Arian heresies, he returned to Ireland with a fresh supply of missionaries, visiting on his way the Isle of Man, and establishing there a bishop- rick. On his arrival he held a synod at Armagh, after which he again entered Leinster in 448, and passing the river Finglas, came for the first time to Ballet gh-ath-cliathy now called Dublin, where preaching before king Alphin Mac Eocbaid, be and his subjects embraced Chris- tianity, and were baptized in a fountain south of the city, which was afterwards called Saint Patrick's well. Near this place a church was erecied, on the foundation of which, Saint Patrick's Cathedral now stands. Archbishop Ussher informs us that he saw this well, that it stood near the steeple, and that a short time before 1639, it was shut up and enclosed within a private house. The next scene of his labours was Munster, where he remained seven years, during v.bieh the king and all the chief men of that province became obedient to the faith. He afterwards took a journey to Rome, to give an account of his mission, and on his return brought over a new supply of missionaries. The last thirty years of his life were spent in retirement in the monasteries of Saul and 8T Armagh ; in the former of which he concluded his ministry and life, in 493, at the advanced age of one hand red and twenty years, and was interred at Downpatrick. Such appears to be the simple outline of the history and pious labours of onr Irish Apostle, by whom the nse of the Scriptures was recommended and enjoined as the duty of every Christian. The Danes of Dublin did not embrace the Christian faith until 948, at which time they are said to have founded Mary's Abljey. f2 89 BRIEF SKETCH MODERN DUBIilN. >m^\< CHAPTER IX. Dublin is now become Iho aecoiul city m the British dominions, and perhaps the fourth or fifth in Europe. Its length from east io west is nearly three miles, and its extent in breadth is almost the same distance. The city is surrounded by a circular road, nearly nine miles in length, which commands the mcKst beautiful views of the adjacent country, the Wicklow Mountains, and the Bay. The Grand and Royal Canals nearly encom})ass it on three sides, and' terminate in docks communicatijit* with the Liffey, near its mouth. The view of 90 MODtKN UUULIN. the city on entering the Bay, between Howth and Dalkey-island, is sublime beyond descrip- tion. The stranger's attention is attracted by a varied prospect of bold promontories, neat villas, woods and pastures, terminated in the most delightful manner by the Wicklow and Dublin Mountains ; and the coast is every where decorated with crowded villages, among which Bullock, with its ancient castle, Kings- town, and Black Rock, appear most conspicu- ous. Since the year 1610, the whole of the north side of the river has been built, with the exception of Church-street, Pill-lane, and Ma- ry's-huie : Grange-Gorman, Stoney-batter, and Glassmanogue, w hich have since been united to the city, were then villages situated at a consi- derable distance ; the south side has also been amazingly improved and extended. The city is nearly equally divided by the river Anna Liffey, which derives its name from the two If ish words, Amhan Louiffa, signifying, the swift river, from the rapidity of its current after great rains. There 's, however, a tradition extant, that it took its name from a princess who was drowned in it, but this seems to be without any good foundation. It is embanked and parapeted on bolh sides with mountain ITS QUAYS, IMPROVEMKNTS, ers ; and strangers may be admitted to see it, if attended by a member. South of the Library is an elegantly-laid-out garden, to which none but the Fellows, Fellow-commoners and Masters have access. To the north of the Library Square there is a third square, called Botany Bay, which is of greater dimensions than either of the other two. In a temporary building in this square is sus- pended the College bell, the largest and best toned in the kingdom. The exterior of this square presents a front of hewn stone to New Brur^wick-street, ninety yards in length. The Park, situated at the east side of the Library Square, contains upwards of thirteen English acres, and is planted with trees and laid out with gravel walks, for the relaxation of the students. The Provost's house, situated to the south of the west front, is separated from Grafton-street by a spacious court ; the front is of free-sstone, richly embellished, and the interior is elegant and convenient. On the east side of the Park, a new Ana- tomy House has been built, at the expense of TRlXfTY COLLEGE. 107 the University. It is 115 feet in length by 50 in breadth, and contiiinsiui Anatomical Lecture- room, thirty [eet square; an Anatomical Mu- seum, and three private rooms. The dissecting- room extends the whole length of the building, and is remarkably well arranged for the purpose. Among the curiosities contained in the museum, are some extraordinary preparations and skele- tons ; the most remarkable are those of the Irish giant M'Grath, whose height exceeded eight feet ; and Clarke the ossified man, whose joints became bone so that they became immove- able, except those of the ancle, and wrist, in consequence of which he died in a deplorable condition. In a small building behind the old anatomy-house may be seen the celebrated wax models of the human figure, presented to the University by the Earl of Shelbourne. There is a Botanic Garden, belonging to the College, situated near Ball's-Bridge, containing three acres and a half, which is laid out for trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants ; and also a large collection of medical plants. G 2 108 MODERN DUBLIN. STATUE OF KINO JriLZ,IA2fI III, O ! what have we got here ? A man on horse- back, without bridle, stirrups, or whip. It is the statue of King William HI. erected in 1701 by the citizens of Dublin, to commemorate the revolution in 1688. It was formerly customary to decorate it with orange ribbons, &c. on certain days, annually, and to fire over the statue, but the Roman Catholics having taken offence at this, the practice has been altogether discontinued. On several occasions the offended party express- ed their indignation by mutilating the statue ; in 1800, the sword and truncheon were torn from it, and other acts of violence committed upon it; and in 1805, on the eve of its decora- tion, after it had been painted, the figure was daubed over with a black greasy substance, which it was found very difficult to remove. College-green, where it stands, was formerly Hoggin-green, so called from the village Hog- ges, which was near this place. In 1146, Dermod Mac Murrough, King of Leinster, founded a nunnery in the vicinity of this green, which, with the village, is supposed to take its name from the Irish word hoige^ the genitive TRINITY COLLEG3B, Vide p. 99. ^^^^: 1^I^^M^^^^^=^^. COmnXERCIAL BUILDINGS. Vidop. 109 COMM£RCUL BUILDINGS. 109 case of o^, a virgin, aud would seem to imply the place of virgins. Hoggin-green extended from where Exchequer-street now stands, to the Liffey, and was the common place for the execution of criminals. Part of this green took the name of College-green, after th« erec- tion of the University in its vicinity. The citizens formerly exercised themselves on this green, at aichery. COmmSROIAL buijldings. This building was commenced in 1796, and in three years it w as opened for the transaction of business. It stands on the site of the origi- nal Dublin Post Office, and part of Crown- alley. The front is of mountain granite, three stories high, and the exterior is plain but ele- gant. The basement is rustic, and in the centre i& the door-case, supported by Ionic pillars. — The middle story contains seven windows, i?ui- mounted by alternate angular and circular pedi- ments, and the summit of the front is finished by a handsome stone cornice. The hall, which is both spacious and lofty, is well adapted to the objects of the building. On the right bid« is no MODERN- DUBLIN. the Assurance and Notary- PuWic's Office; and on the left, the Coffee-room, which it; sixty feet by thirty-two, and is well su|i|jiied with foreign and domestic papers, and the v arious species of mercantile advertiseiiicntt:. The middle story contiiins several eleg^ant apaitments ; one, in the front, is appropriated for a private subscription room ; behind which is a large room used as a Stock ExchaJige, where business is transacted daily. The re- maining part of this story, and all the upper one, are appropriated as a hotel. Behind the build- ing is a square, u hich contains the offices of the Marine and Commercial Insurance. The busi- ness connected with the Chamber of Commerce, is also transacted at the Commercial Buildings : the object of u hich is to promote the commer- cial and manufacturing' interests of the City of Dublin, as well as to take cognizance of, and investigate such matters as affect the commerce and manufactures of Ireland in general. ROYAZ ARCADE. This is an extensive and elegant building, erected on the site of the old Post Office in ROYAL ARCADE. 1 11 College-green, by Mr. Home, a private indivi- dual, who, though engaged in pursuit^i totally different from architecture, was the sole pro- jector. The under part is the Arcade, which contains thirty shops, well assorted with various kinds of merchandise laid out in a very tasteful manner. The first floor was intended for a Bazaar, and extends over the entire line of shops on both sides of the Arcade; and being connected at each end, forms a promenade. The roof is supported by two ranges of Grecian Doric co- lumns, which gives it a noble and imposing effect. Communicating with the Promejiade is a commodious suite of apartments, comprising ball, supper and card-rooms. Adjoining these is an extensive gallery, which is occupied a portion of the year for the works of Irish artists in painting, architecture, and sculpture. In another part of the building is the Sans Pareil Theatre, which is generally occupied by souie amusing exhibition. The purchase and building of this handsome edifice cost the i»roprietor 4:16,000. 112 MODERN DUBLIN. ST, ANDREWS CHURCH. The original site of Saint Andrew's Church and cemetery, was on the south side of Dame- btreet, to the north of where Castle Market now stands. The present situation is about one hundred and thirty yards east of the former : here a church was erected in 1 670, but it having fallen into decay, the present edifice, in imita- tion of St. Mary de Rotunda, at Rome, was erected in 1793. It is in the form of an ellipsis, whose major axis is eighty feet in length, and the minor sixty. The gallery is ornamented by seven large windows ; in the eastern of which> there is a representation of little children com- ing to Chiist ; and in the western, is one of the flight into Egypt. On the south side of the ellipsis stand the pulpit and reading desk, over "which rises the organ. The communion table in front, enclosed by a handsome semi-elliptical railing, forms one side of the oval area that occupies the centre of the church, which is beautifully floored with black and white stone- The pews are formed in the intervals between the passages which diverge irom the centre of liie ellipsiff, as radii, and rise in the form of an &iA^:d.r i m mm STAMP OFFICE, Vide p. 113. COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. Vide p. \U, STAMP OFFICK. 113 amphitheatre. The g-allery forms a graceful oval, nearly round the church, and is supported by fluted columns, VFith highly ornamented capi- tals. From the centre of the cieling, which displays both taste and elegance, the magnificent branch which formerly graced the House of Commons, is suspended by a gilt chain. The exterior is extremely uninteresting, presenting only a low vestibule of mountain granite, with urns on the wings, and on the centre a stati>e of St. Andrew, with his cross, * STAMP OFFICE. The Stamp Office stands in William-street, and was formerly the residence of Lord Powers- court : it wa:? commenced in 1771, and completed for the moderate sum of £10,000. It was pur- chcised by the Commissioners of Stamp Duties from his lordship, in 181 1, for £15,000, and an equal sura has since been expended iji building- additions in the rear. It is built of mountain granite, and the front is approached by a flight of steps, which formerly led to a portico, sup- ported on four doric pillars. Rustic arched windows, and doric entablature, enrich the first story, and in the centre of the second v^ a 114 AIODEHN DUBLIN, V enetijin window of the Ionic order. The win- dows in the attic are decorated by architraves in a very tasteful manner. The whole is sur- mounted by a quadrangular building, which !^er\es for an observatory, and commands an extensive view of the Bay and adjacent country. The business of this department was first trans- acted in a confined situation, in Eustace-street. CITY ASSEJUBL Y-HO USE, This building is situated in William-street, formerly Hoggin-lane, at the corner of Cop- pinger's row. It was originally called the Ex- hibition-room, being erected by the artists of Dublin for the purpose of exhibiting their works. There is but one large room in this building, and in this the Commons assemble. The board of Aldermen meet in another apartment of the building, and quarter assemblies, election of city officers, and other matters relating to the cor{)oration, are transacted here. The Court of Conscience is held in a large room under the assembly-room. The Ex-Lord Mayor is presi- dent of this court, a situation which brings him a considerable emolument. CHAPEL. HOSPITAL. 115 CLARENDON-STREET CHAPEL, This Chapel, which belongs to a convent of discalced Carmelites, is situated in Clarendon- street, and, except the Metropolitan Chapel is the largest in the city. Its exterior is plain, and the chapel is roomy, but the galleries are inconvenient. The clergymen of this establish- ment, have their studies and dormitories on the floor over the chapel. Before the building of this edifice, the friars of this order occupied an inconvenient building in the rear of the houses on the south side of Stephen-street, near Aun^ gier-street. >?' MERCER'S HOSPITAL, This Hospital, which stands at the south end of William-street, was given by Mrs. Mary Mercer in the year 1731, to be fitted up for the reception of the sick poor. At its first insti- tution it contained only ten beds, but the number now amounts to fifty, the funds, however, do not permit more than forty of them to be occu- pied. The management of the affairs of this institution, which was incorporated by act of parliament in 1750, is intrusted to a committee of fifteen, chosen from among the governors, who meet the first and third Tuesday in each month, when two visitors are appointed. H J 16 MODKRN DLBLIN. Tie annual income exceeds £1,000, of which about £loO is lurnii^lied by subscription, £250 by profit rents, £1J0 by interest on money, the remainder by grand jury presentments, and occasional parliamentary grants. The medical officers are two physicians, and six surgeons; the lattfM- visit daily, and a dispensary is attached. PETER'S CHURCH, The Parish Church of St. Peter's, the largest jn [Dublin, is situated on the west side of Aun- gier-street. it is a building of modern date, and is in the form of a cross. Both the exte- rior and interior of this church are divested of ornament, and present nothing to attract atten- tion as a public building. The interior, how- ever, is fitted up with neatness, and no church in the city is resorted to by a more fashionable congregation. In the south gallery there is a slab to the memory of Lieutenant-General Archibald Hamilton, who fought at the siege of Londonderry. FRENCH-STREET CHAPEL, This Chapel, which was built about the begin- ning of the present century, stands on the rear of the east j-ide of French-street, and belongs PLK.ASAXTS" ASYLLM. Ii7 to the order of calced Carmelites. It is small, but convenient, and neatly fitted up. The clergy reside in a house attached to the chapel. PLEASANTS' ASYLUM, The charitable Mr. Pleasants bequeathed £15,000 for the purpose of establishin^r a fe- male Orphan-house, for the daughters of res- pectable hoase holders. This asylum, which is situated on the west side of Caraden-street, was opened in 1818, for twenty female orphans, solely Protestants, who are clothed, educated and maintained in a manner exceeding- any [thing of a similar description in the British em- Lire. When they arrive at mature age, they Receive a handsome portion, should they find I suitable partner. BLACK mONBA F, On crossing the canal at Chailemont- bridge, rou come to Mount pleasant Cresceiit, Rane- agh, and Cullen's-wood, where the forces of he city were formerly mustered by the Lord layor on Easter Monday, commonly called lack Monday from the following circum- tance : — The citizens of Dublin, had assembled it Cullen*s-wood to amuse themselves, accord- ng to annual custom, on Easter Monday. 118 MODKUN DUiaiX. Having', as thoy thought, at that time fully sub- dued the Irish enemy, and not expecting an attack, they went unarmed. But the enemy, who were then lurking in the mountains, hav- ing been ai»|Mized of their iiitontions, con- cealed themselves in Cullen's-wood, and sally- ing out suddenly on the citizens, who were unprepared and fatigued with their amusements, they slew above five hundred of them. This event occurred on Easter Monday, 1209, and for ages after, the citizens marched out on that day with a black standard carried before them, and well armed, which proved a great terror to the Irish, and caused that day afterwards to be called Black Monday. aONVENT OF ST, JOSSPH, This convent, which is situated at Ranelagh, was established about thirty-seven years since, at which period the nuns removed to it from their former residence on Arran-Quay. The community consists of the prioress, fourteen professed choir nuns, and some lay sisters. ST, STEPHEN'S' GREEN. This square is the largest in the British em- pire, being nearly an English mile in circuni- ST. stephrn's-green. 119 fereiice. It was levelled and laid out in walks lor the recreation of the citizens in the year 1 670, and the soil being moist, a deep ditch was formed round it to carry off the water. A low M all formerly enclosed an area of twenty En- glish acres, and immediately within the wall was a gravel walk lined with lime trees, sepa- rated from the interior square by the deep fosse already mentioned, which was a receptacle for every kind of nuisance. The inhabitants, how- ever, empowered by an Act of Parliament, ob- tained a grant of it in fee farm from the corpo- ration, whose property it is, at an annual rent of =£300 ; since which time they have filled up the ditch, levelled the wall, and while the gra- vel walk is bounded on the inside by a hand- some iron pallisade, it is separated from the street by granite pillars, connected by chains, and surmounted by lamp-posts. The area is tastefully laid down with plantations and walks, a great number of ever-greens and shrubs having been scattered through it. The equestrian sta- tue, which you see in the centre, is that of George II. in a military habit: it was erected in 1758. Some ruffians, for the value of the metal of which this stiitue is formed, made an attempt once to carry part of it away, but were 120 Modern Dublin. detected by the watchmen, and obliged to de- camp, after having- cut oft^ one leg of the horse with a saw Around this area are many magnificent man- sions, Mr. VVhaly's, over the door of which you see a lion dormant, the late Lord Chan- cellors, Lord Charleviile's, Lord Ross's, the Archbishop of Dublin's, and Lord Plunkett's. The extreme irregularity of the buildings of Stephen's-green, is supposed by many persons to render the scene more picturesque. SJAGDALEN ASYLUIH, This institution, the first of the kind ever established in Ireland, is situated in Leeson- street, and was founded by Lady Arabella Denny in 1 766, for unfortunate females, abandoned by their seducers, and rejected by their friends, who preferred a life of penitence and virtue to one of guilt and infamy. Since the death of her ladyship, her benevolent plans have been followed uj) by the ladies w ho have been gover- nesses of the institution. The funds arise from subscriptions and the weekly receipts of the chapel, which contains about 700 persons, and is generally crowded to excess. The house is ca- pable of receiving sixty [)eni tents, and forty-eight MAGDALEN ASYLUM. — DONNVEROOK. 12J have been accommodated at one time. Xo candidate is admissible alter the age of twenty." The period of probation is from two to ihree years, during- which they are educated in every thing necessary to their present and eternal hap- piness. After this, a reconciliation is effected with their friends, or tliey are pro\ided witii tlie means of an honest livelihood. Upwards of eight hundred have been admitted since the commencement of the institution, and as far as their future progress in life could be traced, those who have been dismissed, have generally given evidence of a comj)lete reformation. — This institution is much indebted to the benevo- lent Latouche family. DONNYBROOK, The road which crosses the canal at Leeson- street, leads to Donnybrook, celebrated for its annual fair, which continues for a week, where crowds constantly attend, and all kinds of amusements are exhibited. It commences ow the 26th of August, and durina" the week, lillle business is done among the labouring cla&ies of the metropolis. 122 MODERN DUBLIN. ROVAZ COLI^EGE OF SURGEONS, This building is situated on the west side of Stephens- Green, at the corner of York-street, on the site of the Quakers' burying-ground, which was purchased for the purpose. The original building contains a spacious hall, a theatre, where lectures are delivered, capable of containing four hundred students, dissecting- room, two museums, and a collection of prepa- rations. The fiont, looking to Stephen's-green, has been lately very much improved, under the direction of Mr. Murray, architect of the Board of Works. The ba&ement story is rustic, and contains six windows, with the door in the cen- tre, over which there is a fancy head. The second story has seven arched window^ with a column of the Doric order between each. On the tympanum are the king's arms, and on the apex is a statue of Esculapius, with Apollo on his right, and Hygeia on the left. The first story, in the new part of the build- ing, contains the examination hall, and ante- room ; the former is very capacious. On the second story is the museum, which measures seventy-three feet by thirty-three, and is to bo fitted up with cases. It is surrounded by a gal- YORK-STRKET CUM' EL. 123 lery, with fancy iron raiiiii^^. Tlie coiJiiia^ of this room is divided into compartments, and supported by fiiitcd Ionic columns, .and has an enriched entablature, intersected by flying arches to form the lanterns. These impro\ ements were executed for the sum of c£7000, and the expense of the original building was about £40,000. — The lloyal College of Surgeons was incorpo- rated in 1784, and such have been the wisdom and liberality of its original regulations, tiiat from that period surgical science has made rapid progress in Ireland. There are six professors, each of whom gives a full course of lectures on the professional science allotted to him. The gallery of the theatre is open for the public during the dissection of malefactors. YORK-STREET CHAPEL. This chapel was erected in 1808, and belongs to a very respectable class of professing Chris- tians, denominated Independents, from their refusing to bear the name .of any distinguished leader, and holding, that every congregation has in itself what is necessary for its own ^rt- vernmeut. lii doctrine they are Calvinists. H•^ 124 MODEKN 1)1 liLIN. THE IfXANSION-HO USE, The Mansion-house, the rcoidiJice ol' the Lord Maj or, is situated in Dawtoii-strect, near tlie north side of Steijfaen's-green. It is a mean brick building, but contains some spacious apartments, well adapted to the convivial pur- poses to which they are appropriated. In some of the rooms are exhibited full-length portraits of several eminent and distinguished noblemen. In the garden, opposite the street, is an eques- trian statue of George I. which was placed on Essex-bridge in 1720, from which it was taken in 1 753, and erected where it now stands. ST, ANNE'S CHURCH, This church stands in Dawson-strcet, near the Mansion-house, and though of modern erection, has nothing in its external appearance to recommend it to notice ; the interior, how- ever, is tastefully laid out, and comfortably fitted up. This parith formerly was a part of the antient parish of "^^A. Bridget, ajid of ti.e united parishes of St. Peter and St. Kevin, but was formed irto a new parish by Act of Parliament, in 1707. A plan and estimate, for erecting an ornan,e]ital tower and spire to this church, has EDUCATION SOCIKTV. 12.7 been furnished by Mr. Murray, architect, which, if carried into execution, would add very much to the beauty of that part of the city. The expense is estimated at the moderate sura of £3000. SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING THE EDUCATION OF THE POOR OF IRELAND, This society was formed in 1811 : its ol)ject is the diffusion of a well-ordered and economical system of education among the poor, without any interference with their peculiar reliiiious opi- nions: that all catechisms and bf)oks of reli- gious controversy should be excluded from the schools, and the Scriptures read in them without note or comment. This plan wns approved of by Parliament in 1815, and the sum of £6980 granted to build a model school in Kiidare- street. A society for the publication of moral books at low jjrices, has been o-raphical order, beginning at the most dist- ant paifs of the world. The fifth, or economical collection, contains 474 specimens, arranged according to the difi'oreni uses to which they rj;iy be upplied. The animal museum is pecu- DUBLIN SOCIF.TY POI'SE. 129 liarlv ricli ill shell?, bu tier Dies and beetle's ; the serpent tribe is ai^o uuinerou^, anioug^ uiiich ij> the stuffed skin of (he Boa Constrictor, origi- nally twenty-four feet long". The number of birds and beasts is tut few : among^ which are a lion, seven feet lon^, a lion-rnonkey, the pf>lic;tu of the wilderness, a male and female golden pheasant, birds of paradise, and several others of beautiful plumage. Some idols, weapons of war, musical instruments, and other curiosi- ties from the South Sea Islands, have been added to the collection, with some lavas, scorias, &c. from Vesuvius and other volcanoes. Among the late additions to the museum, are the sculls of a walrus and of a snovv-wliile sea dolphin, the neck-bone of a large wbal^;, the skin of the boa constrictor, which died on board the Alceste frigate after having swallowed two li\e goats. Sir Charles Giesecke is professor of mineralogy to the Dublin Society. His museum contains some valuable specimens collected on the con- tinent, and various curiosities well worthy of attention. The museum is open to the public from twelve to three o'clock, on Mondays and Fridays ; and lectures on natural philosophy, botany, chemis- try, mineralogy, miiiii)^, and the veterinary art. 130 MODERN DUBLIN. are delivered at stated periods, to which the public are liberally invited. This society was formed in 1731, and was incorporated in 1749. Private subscriptions and Parliamentary grants were the original sources of its support : in lieu of the former, each member pays fifty guineas at the time of his admission. The society originally held its meet- ings in Grafton-street, but in 1800 they erected an extensive edifice in Hawkins's-street, upon which they expended £60,000, before they purchased the premises which they now occupy. MBRRION'Sq UARE. The interior area of this square contains upwards of twelve English acres, tastefully laid out in gravel walks and shrubberies, and en- closed by a handsome iron railing. The space between the railing and the houses is nearly twenty-four yards, which gives a fine effect to the noble buildings which surround it on three sides, the west being in a great measure open lo the back lawn of the Dublin Society House. At the same side stands an ornamented fountain, with inscriptions to the memory of the Duke of Rutland, but it has been much mutilated. — The houses in this square being btiilt in the ST. STEPHEN'S CHAPEL, &C'. 131 most elegant modern style, it is in general in- habited by persons of the first rank. This square is a very fashionable promenade on summer evenings. ST, STEPHEN'S CHAPEL, This chapel, which was opened for divine service last year, stands in Upper Mount-street, on the east side of Merrion- square. It is en- tered by an Ionian portico, with an enriched entablature and pediment, surmounted by a stone cupola of two stories. Its external ap- pearance presents nothing very remarkable, or worthy of attention. The interior is neatly fitted up, and is generally crowded to excess. HO USE or REFUGE^ BAGGOT-ST, This institution, the first of the kind ever established, owes its origin to the benevolence of the late Mrs. Theodosia Blachford, and was opened in 1802. Its object is to afford a tem- porary* retreat and protection for such innocent females as are destitute of a home and shelter, during that interesting period of life when the world is new, and the mind unaware of its se- ductions. In 1811, the present cnmmodiou.s building was erected, and is conducted under 132 MODERN DUBLIN. the supcriiitoudenco of a committee of gover- nesses. Such of the inmates as desire it are taught to read, and all of them instructed in religious knowledge. They are generally, em- ployed in washing, mangling, plain-work, and other feminine labours. FITZfyiLLIAHH'Sq UARE, This square is situated to the east of Ste- pheirs-green, and south of Merrion-square. Jt is much smaller than either, but excels both in neatness and elegance. The interior is laid out very tastefully with gravel walks, and planted with flowering shrubs and ever-greens. This square, w hich is only completed lately, is in- habited by some persons of the first distinction in the city. SIR PATRICK DUN'S HOSPITAL, This building, situated to the east of Merrion- square, near the Canal Docks, presents a hand- some front of nearly sixty-five yards, consisting of a centre and two wings neatly ornamented. It is calculated to receive one hundred patients, and the wards are ventilated on the plan recom- mended by Mr. Howard. In the rear of the centre is a lecture -room, forty-two feet by FLOATING CH.^FKL. — MARINK SCHOOL. 133 thirK-oiie, in which the professors lecture twice a week, OP. the cases of the patients, and explain the nature of their practice. Sir Patrick Dan having hequeathed aiaies for esfahlishintv professorships in the College of Physicians, and other medical purposes, it was resolved, in 1800, to found this establishment, both as an asjlum for the diseased poor, and as connected \rith the School of Physic, to afford the young student an opportunity of seeing the most critical diseases treated by experienced professors. FLOATING CHAPEL. To the east of Sir Patrick Dun's Hospital, in the Grand Canal Docks, the hull of a war vessel has been neatly fitted up as a chapel for the accommodation of seamen. The lower part is solely appropriated to seafaring men, and the gallery, which is carried entirely round the chapel, is for the reception of strangers. This establishment owes much to the exertions of the benevolent Admiral Oliver, who is one of the committee for the management of its affairs. HIBEra^IAN 3IARINE SCHOOL. This building is siiuated on Sir John Roger- son's quay, and Wii.- opened in 1777, by charier, 134 MODKRN DUBLIN'. for maintaining, educating, and apprenticing the orphans and children of decayed seamen, in the royal navy and merchants' service. The centre and two wings, of which the edifice consists, extend about one hundred and thirty feet in front. The wings contain the chapel and school- room, each being fifty-one feet by twenty-six. The course of instruction com- prises reading, writing, arithmetic, navigation, and the principles of the Christian religion. The boys are rarely admitted under the age of nine years, and are immediately clothed in naval uniform. The funds of this establishment arise from casual benefactions, and Parliamentary grants. The expense of the building amounted to £6,600. ST. MARK'S CHURCH. This is a large plain building, and stands in Mark'gtreet, near Townsend-street. The parish, to which it belongs, was taken from St. Andrew's parish, by Act of Parliament, in 1707. The foundation was laid in 1729, but owin^ to the want of funds, it was not completed for upwards of thirty years. The site was given by Mr. John Hansard. LOCK HOSPITAL. — THKATRK RUVAL. 135 7VESTmOREX»ANDf OR LOCK HOSPITAL, This is an extensive building situated in To wnsend -street, and is capable of containing ibree hundred patients. It was opened in 1 1'^Z for the reception of persons in indigent cir- cumstances afflicted with the venereal complaint. Both sexes were formerly admitted as patients, but it is now exclusively appropriated to fe- males. Trusses are distributed to the ruptured poor twice a week, at this establishment. Its annual expense is supported entirely by parlia- mentary grants. THEATRE ROYAL, The first plays performed in Dublin were ex- hibited in Hoggin-green as we have already stated. In the reign of Elizabeth, the ball-room at the Castle was converted into a theatre, where the nobility performed. In 1635, a the- atre was erected in Werburgh-streef, by John Ogilby, at his own expense, which was shut up during the rebellion of 1611, and never again opened. In 1662, another theatre was built in Smock-alley, which, about nine years after, fell upon the audience, and killed and wounded several of them. This suspended the- 136 MODFRN DIRLI.V. atrical amusements for a number of years, but the theatre iii Smock-alley was at length repair- ed. In 1734, another theatre was opened in Aungier- street, and soon after a third in Rains- ford-street. At the same time there existed Ward's theatre in Dame-street, Madame Vio- lante's in Fownes's-street, a Music-Hail in Crow-street, and Aston's Medley in Patrick's Close ; making seven places of amusemeiit of this nature, supported in Dublin. In 1 758, a theatre was erected on the foun- dation of the Music-Hail, in Crow-street, for- merly the site of an Augustine Monastery, founded in 1259, by the ancestors of the Duke of Tirconnell. This theatre was finished with great taste and elegance, and was capable of containing two thousand persons, but was shut up in 1820, and is now in ruins. The present structure stands in Hawkins's- street, and was formerly occupied by the Dub- lin Socieiy. It was fitted up for dramatic repre- sentations \Fith astonishing rapidity, and opened in January 1821. It presents to the eye the shape of a horse-shoe, and is well constructed for the accommodation of spectators. The gene- ral appearance of the interior is beautiful. The centre of the ceiling is divided by gilded mould- ings into compartments, and ornamented by CHAPEL. — CORN EXCH.VNGE. i.*i7 a harp. The stage is capacious and command- ing, and the scenery is executed in a style of superior excellence. TO T^NSEND' STREET CHAPEL. This chapel is situated in a yard on the north side of Tovvnsend-Street, and is supposed to stand on the site of the Steyne Hospital, which was erected by Henr3' De Loundres, Arch- bishop of Dublin, about the year 1220. The parochial duties are performed by seven offici- ating clergymen. CORN EXCHANGE. This building was commenced in 1816, and completed at an expense of £22,000, which was ixi part defrayed by a duty on all entries of merchandize, and the remainder by subscription shares. \i stands on Burgh-quay, and is built of mountain granite, the front to the river con sisting of two stories, with a rustic basement. The interior consists of a large hail, which is 130 feet by 70. The central ceiling is supported by six metal pillars of the Tuscan order, with massive pilasters at the angles. This colonnade supports a cornice, over which is a range of windows reaching to the roof, which light the hall. Behind the colonnade are four aisles, two 138 MODERN DUBLIN. of which are lighted by lanterns in the ceiling, and at each end are two spacious apartments, intended for coffee and committee-rooms. The samples of corn are exhibited on tables in the hall, which are let. In this building the Ro- man Catholic Association holds its meetings. BBSNEZER CHAPEL. This house was built by some of the members of York-street Chapel, from which they sece- ded, a few years back. It stands on the east side of D'Olier-street, and its members are Independents. The greater part of the space east of D'Olier- street, included between Gt. Brunswick-street and the river, as far as Ringsend-bridge, was formerly under the dominion of the water; and previous to its being built on, was excellent meadow ground. Westmoreland-street stands on the site of College-lane, and leads to Carlisle-bridge, from which the prospect is truly sublime. On the west are seen the Metal-bridge, Essex-bridge, with a distant view of the Four Courts and the Wellington Testimonial; while to the eastward the Gustom.House rises in magnificent gran- deur, and the harbour is seen crowded with vessels of various burdens. MODERN DUBLIN. 139 CHAPTER XL SECOND PERAMBULATION — SOUTH-WEST QUARTER OF THE CITV. The ground on which Fownes's-street, Crow-street, Eustace-street and Temple-bar now stand was formerly occupied by gentlemen's houses and gardens ; but when the city began to be enlarged eastward, those houses were demolished, and converted into streets, which take their names from the respective gentlemen who had previously been the occupants ; such aa Chancellor Eustace, John Crow, and Alder- man Fownes, &c. The space now occupied by Fleet-street, Sycamore-alley, Crane-lane, and Essex-street, was recovered from the river, and Dame-street was built on the north side only, as far as George's-lane. So late as the year 1531, there was a small harbour near Dame's-gate, where it is recorded Archbishop Allan embarked with intent to sail to England, to avoid the fury of Thomas Fitzgerald ; but the vessel having been driven on shore near Clontarf, he went to Artane, where he was discovered and inhumanly murdered by his enemies. 110 MODKRN ni'RLIX. R O YAL EXCHANGE. This building is, perhaps, the most elegant structure of the kind in Europe. It stands on Cork -hill, in the centre of the city, near the Castle, and commands a pleasing prospective view along Parliament-street, Essex-bridge, and Capel-street. The form of this beautiful edifice is nearly a square of one hundred feet, having three of its sides of Portland stone, in the Corinthian order, crowned by a dome in the centre of the building. The north and west parts are nearly similar in appearance, each having a range of six columns, with their cor- respondent pilasters and entablatures; but the former has a noble pediment highly decorated. In this front, between the columns, are three entrances, with elegant iron gates hung to Ionic columns, over which are the windows, richly ornamented by architraves, &c. A fine balus- trade interrupted only by the pediment, runs round the top of the building. A large flight of steps leads to the entrance, round which is a handsome iron railing. The interior of this edifice possesses great architectural beauty; twelve composite fluted columns support the dome, which form a circular "IftltittHil ^kitk^JAH 'i^-*-*-***-«i tkK*m$.f£T CO/2JV EXCHANGE, Vide p. 13T. ROYAL EXCHANOEs Vide p. 140. C ^ ROYAL EXCHANGK. I 11 walk in the centre of the ambulatory ; the entablature over these columns is splendidly enriched, and above it are twelve elegant circular windows. The ceiling of the dome is decorated with stucco ornaments, in Mosaic taste, divided into small hexagonal compartments, and in the centre is a large window which illuminates most of the building. Opposite the north entrance, on a white marble pedestal, stands a statue, in brass, of George HI. which cost seven hundred guineas. Semi-pilasters of the Ionic order extend to upwards of half the height of the columns, and above them is an entablature, over which are elegant festoons of drapery, and other decorations. The floor of the ambulatory is beautifully inlaid, particularly the centre, and at each extremity of the north side are oval geometrical stair-cases, enlightened by flat oval lanterns in the ceiling. In a niche on the west stair-case, is a beautiful pedestrian white marble statue of Doctor Lucas. A cofl'ee-room ex- tends from one stair-case to the other, ajid is lighted by windows in the north front, and by- two oval lanterns in a covered ceiling richly ornamented. On the west is a large room where the committee of merchants and commis- sioners of bankrupts meet. To the south ar«^ 142 MODERN DUBLIN. the housekeepers apartments, and on the east is an apartment appropriated to the use of the Commissioners of Wide Streets. This mag- nificent building was commenced in 1769, and opened in 1779. The entire expense was about ^40,000, of which £13,000 was granted by Parliament, and the remainder defrayed by lot- teries, conducted by the merchants. Cork-bill, on which this building stands, took its present name from a house erected there by the first Earl of Cork. The garden attached to this house, was formerly the church-yard of St. Mary les Dames. THE CASTLE Or DUBLIN, This edifice is generally supposed to have been commenced in 1205, and finished in 1220. It was originally intended to be a fortress to secure the English interest in Ireland, and was deemed a place of considerable strength. The entrance from the city on the north side was by a draw bridge, placed between two strong round towers from Castle-street, the westward of which remained to the year 1766. A port- ijullis, armed with iron, between these towers, served as a second defence, in case the bridge should be surprised by an enemy. A high CASTLE OF D UBLIN, Vide p. 14;'^ f^r.rd^i CASTLE CHAPELs Tide p. \i6. THE CASfLt. J 43 curtain extended Iroin the western tower t(i Cork Tower, from which the wall w as continued of equal height to Beimingham 1 ow er. This tow er was afterwards used as a state prison for criminals, but in 1775, it was taken down, aiid the present one erected on its site. From this another high curtain extended to the Wardrole Tower, from which the wall was carried to Store-house Tower, near Dame's-gate, and from thence it was continued to the eastern gateway tow er, at the entrance of the Castle. This fortress was originally encomp.issed with a broad and deep moat, which has long since been filled up. In the walls were sally- ports, one towards Ship-street, which was closed up in 1663, after the discovery of Jephson and Blood's conspiracy. The other afforded a pas- sage to the back yard and out-offices north of the Wardrobe Tower, and remained until the curtain on that side was taken down, to make room for a new pile of buildings, where the counciUchamber and a new range of offices for the secretaries stand. The Castle did not become the seat of govern • ment until the reign of Queen Elizabeth : pre- vious to that time, the chief Governors sometimes 1 2 I4'> MODERN DUBLIN. held their court at the Archbishop's palace, St. Sepulchre, or at Thomas-court, but more fre- quently at the Castle of Kilmainham. In 1 559 a tempest having injured this building, Queen Elizabeth ordered the Castle of Dublin to be repaired for the reception of the chief gover- nors, and the work was completed in 1567, from which period it has continued to be the town residence of the Viceroy. The Castle of Dublin is divided into two courts, the upper and lower. The former, which contains the apartments of the Lord Lieutenant, is a quadrangle, about ninety-three yards long and forty-three broad, with the buildings on every side uniform. Over the principal entrance from Cork-hill, there is an excellent statue of Justice, and over the other gate, one of Forti- tude. The apartments of the Viceroy occupy the entire of the south side, and part of the east end, the remainder of the court is occupied by the apartments and oflfices of the chief secre- tary and various officers of the household. The grand approach to the viceregal apart- ments is a colonnade, over which is the presence chamber, furnished with a throne and canopy, THE CASTLK. 145 covered with crimson velvet, richly ornamented with gold lace and gilt carved-work. From a rich stucco ceiling, an elegant glass lustre is suspended, which cost £270. The ball-room, or Saint Patrick's-hall, at- tracts particular attention. This noble apartment, which is eighty-two feet long, forty-one broad, and thirty-eight high, is decorated by some fine paintings, particularly the ceiling, the tiat of which is divided into three compartments, an oblong rectangle at each end, and a circle in the middle. In one of the rectangles, Saint Patrick is represented con\erting the Irish to Christianity ; and in the other, Henry If. seated under a canopy, receives the submission ol the Irish chieftains. In the circle, George III. is seen supported by Liberty and Justice, while various allegorical representations allude to the happy effects resulting to this country from his auspicious reign. The lower court is larger than the upper, but more irregular in form, and inferior in appear- ance. On the north side are the Tieasury, the Hanaper, Register, and Auditor General's Office. The Ordnance Office, which is a mo- 146 MODKRN DlJIiLIX. derii building", stands iit the east end, where there is an arsenal with an armoury containing a great number of arms. On the east side there is a small lawn, adorn- ed with trees and shrubs, called the Castle garden, with which the viceregal apartments communicate b}- a large flight of steps from the terrace before the garden front. By a late act of Parliament, the Lord Lieu- tenant of Ireland is entitled to £30,000 yearly salary. The household of his Excellency con- sists of a private secretary, steward, comptroller, gentleman usher, chamberlain, and master of the horse, with several gentlemen of the bed- chamber, gentlemen at large, chaplains, aides- de-camp, pages, and a company of battle-axe guards. His Excellency, the Marquis of Angleasea, is the pre^-ent Viceroy. CATTLE OHAFBL, The first stone of this beautiful edifice was laid in 1807, and it was opened for divine ser- vice on Christmas-day, in 1814, at an expence of £42,000. The chapel, which is seventy- three iiz,kii long, and thirty-live bi<^jd, is raised CASTLE CHAPEL. HT of common Irish black stone. The exterior is ornamented with ninety heads, including all the sovereigns of England. They are formed of dark blue marble from Tullamore, which, for susceptibility of expression and durability, is not inferior to the finest stiituary marble. The entrance on the north side is surmounted by a fine bust of St. Peter holding a key, and above it, over a window, a bust of Dean Swift. Above the entrance on the east, are busts of St. Patrick and Brian Boru, King of Ireland, and over them is that of the Virgin Mary- A monastic battlement ornaments the door-way, which is pointed, and over it is the great east window, richly decorated with Gothic foliage. The gable terminates above in a rich antique cross, and at each angle are square towers rising to the height of the roof. The interior is beautiful in the extreme, and consists of a choir, without nave or transept, finished in the richest style of Gothic architec- ture. The sides are supported by buttresses, springing from grotesque heads, and ornaraen- ed with rich foliage. Between the buttresses are pointed windows, surmounted by labels. 148 MODERN DUBLIN The east window, over the comninnion table, is adorned with a representation of Christ before Pilate, in stained glass, finely executed. The compartments beneath this piece are filled with the four Evang-elists. The roof is supported by six clustered pillars on each side, terminating with capitals covered with foliage. The ceiling- is formed of groined arches springing from grotesque heads of modelled stucco ; it is richly ormamented, and painted in imitation of stone. In the gallery, on the right, is a throne for the Lord Lieutenant, and one op])osite for the Archbishop. In the centre pannel of the front of the organ loft, the king's arms are neatly carved, and on either side those of the Dukes of Bedford and Richmond; from these are pla- ced alternately the arms of all the Viceroys of Ireland, since the earliest period. The pulpit lests on a shaft issuing from an ojien Bible; and the pannels are enriched with the arms of the monarchs, Henry, Elizabeth, Edward, and W^illiam, who were the great supporters of the Reformation, together with those of the Arch- bishops and Bishops of Ireland. TIIK C VSTLK. 1 19 RECORD TQJVER: • This tower, which stands in the lower C^stle- yard, was erected in 1775, on the site of Ber- mingham Tower, and fitted up as a repository for preserving the ancient records of thekiug- dora, as, from the period of the Conquest, much evil had arisen from the want of a secure place for the public records of Ireland. \i contains offices for the secretary, sub-commissioners, clerks, surveyor-general, cS^c. and the greatest regularity is observed in the arrangement and preservation of the valuable documents com- mitted to their care. Amoug these documents is the celebrated Down Survey, consisting of thirty-one folios of actual surve^-s of the lands forfeited in Ireland, by the rebellion of IGll, executed under the direction of Sir Williain Petty. Of the thirty-two counties, only Galway and Roscommon, with a part of Mayo, and a i^w baronies, were omitted. This survey was deposited in the surveyor-generals office, in Essex-street, which was consumed by fire in 1711, when some of the maps were totally des- troyed, and others much injured. 150 MODERN DUBLIN. On pasiyiiig from the Castle, through Little Ship-street, a part of the city wall is seen on the right side, next Hoey's-court, where the house in which Dean Swift resided is still pointed out. ST. TVERBURGH'S CHURCH. This parish, previous to the English invasion, was called the Parish of St. Martin, and the church stood close to the city wall at Ship-street. The old parish church of St. Werburgh was erected near the site of the church of St. Martin. In 1715, the old church was so decayed that it became necessary to build a new one, and, to carry this into effect, commissioners were ap- pointed to superintend the erection of the build- ing; but this church was destroyed by iire in 1754, and four years after it was rebuilt in its present beautiful form. The first story is or- namented with six Ionic pilasters, with their entablatures, a grand entrance in the Doric order, and two side doors. The second story is of the Corinthian order, crowned by a pedi- ment. Here the steeple assumes the form of a square, enriched on each side by two composite pillars with their pedestals and entablatures. A bride's church. — JOHN'S CHURCH. \5\ spire surmounted the whole, which has been taken down from apprehensions of its insecurity. The steeple and spire being one hundred and sixty feet high, and placed on an elevated situa- tion, formed one of the principal ornaments of the city. The interior of the church is eighty feet by fifty-two. A range of Doric pillar^, with their entablatures, sup|)orts the gallery ; and under the organ, which is one of the most elegant in the city, is a seat for the Lord Lieu- tenant, ST, 3 HIDE'S CHUROH, The ancient church of this parish was built previous to the English invasion. The present edifice was erected in 1684. It is seventy-two feet by forty, \^ ith its east gable in Bride-street, and what was intended for its front, stretches along Bride's-alley. The exterior is uninterest- ing, but the interior is lightsome, well ventilated, and comfortably fitted up for the accommodation of its congregation. ST, JOHN'S CHURCH, The original church of the parish of Saint John, was built in 1168, and was a prebend of Christ Church ; but having fallen into decay, it 152 MODERN DUBLIN. was rebuilt about the beginning of the sixteenth century. The present church was built by Par- liamentary grants, made in 1767 and 177 J. It is a handsome building^ with a front of mountain granite, the pediment of which is supported by four Corinthian columns, between which there are three circular arched windows. The inte- rior is lighted by a number of circular arched windows, in flank-walls. CHAPEL OF ST. miCHAEL AND ST. JOHN. This chapel stands on the site of the old th*^ atre, on the east side of Smock-alley, and wt of Lower Exchange-street ; to each of which it presents a front of hewn mountain stone, in the Gothic style of architecture, but with very little ornament. The interior is handsomely laid out and decorated, and the ornaments are all in the same style as the exterior of the building. This was formerly the smallest Roman Catholic pa- rochial district in Dublin, but it has been lately extended. ST, NICHOLAS'S CHURCH. The ancient church of this parish was built by Donat, Bishop of Dublin, the first of the CHRIST CHURCH. I5.'j Ostmen that was raised to that dignity. The present church, which stands in Nicholas-street, w as erected in 1 707. Its front is of hewn stone, and, if placed in a favourable situation, would make a respectable appearance, but it is almost hidden by the houses which are built against it, while the narrowness of the street prevents it from being seen to advantage. CHRIST CHURCH, This ancient edifice was erected in the year 1038, by Sitricus, King of the Ostmen, and Donat, Bishop of Dublin, for secular canons ; but, in 1163, they were changed into canons regular, of the order of Arras, by Laurence O'Toole, Archbishop of Dublin. An episcopal palace was built near it, by Donat, on the site of the late Four Courts. After the surrender of Dublin to the English, the church was en- larged, and, in addition to the chapels of Saint Nicholas on the north side of the cathedral, and that of Saint Michael, afterwards converted into a parochial church, other chapels were erected. This church is in the form of a long cross, but nothing remains of the original nave except the northern wall of the great aisle, and ruins of the northern side aisle, from which it apppears 154 MODERN DUBLIN. that the whole, when entire, was not deficient of architectural beauty. Its length, from the western entrance to the transept, is one hundred and three feet, its breadth twenty-five, and that of the side aisle thirteen. The nave and side aisles were richly decorated with the various ornaments of Gothic architecture. In 1562, the south wall and roof fell to the ground, and were afterwards repaired, but without any kind of ornaments. Against the southern wall are some handsome monuments, among which there is one to Strong- bow, who is represented in armour, and part of a female figure at his side, said to be his wife Eva. There is a very beautiful monument con- secrated to the memory of Thomas Prior, Esq, who spent his life in unwearied efforts to pro- mote the welfare of his native country. Two boys are represented standing beneath the bust, one weeping, while the other points to a bass- relief of Minerva, leading the Arts towards Hibernia. On the north side of the communion table is a fine monument to the Earl of Kildare, repre- senting the relict of the deceased, with the Earl, afterwards Duke of Leinster, and his sister, mourning over the body of their father ; CHRIST CHURCH. 155 the fiofures are elegantly sculptured in white marble, and there is an appropriate inscription on the pedestal. There are some other monu- ments worthy of attention, and two statues of Charles I. and 11. with some curious ancient inscriptions. The choir measures one hundred and five feet by twenty-eight, and is without architectural ornament. The throne and stalls are of var- nished oak in the Gothic style, neatly car\'ed, and the galleries are supported by Corinthian and Ionic columns. The organ is well-toned, and the choir service performed in a superior manner. The steeple, which is an ordinary square tower without a spire, is erected over the inter- section of the aisles on firm arches, supported by strong pillars of hewn stone. The Prior of Christ Church had formerly a seat in Parliament, but in 1541, Henry VIII. converted the priory and convent into a deanery and chapter. The vaults under Christ Church were erected by the Ostmen merchants as a depository for their wares, many ages before that people took the City of Dublin. \S6 MODERN DUBLIN. ST, MICHAEL'S CHURCH, The ancient church of St. Michael was origi- nally erected by Donat, Bishop of Dublin, shortly after Christ Church. St. Michael's was erected into a parish church early in the fifteenth cen- tury, by Archbishop Talbot. The present edi- fice, which stands in High-street, occupies only a part of the site of the ancient church. It is a small but neat structure, built in the Gothic style of architecture, handsomely fitted up with- in, but void of all external ornament. The steeple alone remains of the former building:, which has been repaired, and pinacles erected on its angles. ST, AUDEON'S CHURCH. This edifice, situated near Corn-market, was erected before the English invasion, and is con- structed of common quarry stone, with a steeple at the west end, in which there is a good ring of bells. Its external appearance has lately been much improved, but the interior is gloomy and inelegant. In the year 1G70, the spire of this church was rebuilt. There are some monu- ments of antiquity to be met here, but the diUes and inscriptions on most of them are difficult to decipher. CHAPELS, MENDICITY ASSOCIATION, &C. 157 BRIDOE'STREET CHAPEL. The Roman Catholic Chapel of St. Audeon's parish, is situated in a yard at the east side of Bridge-street, to which there is attached a house for the clergymen. These concerns formerly belonged to the Dominicans. AD Am AND EVE CHAPEL, This chapel, which belongs to a Franciscan convent, has a front in Cook-street. It is an old building, in good repair, and well fitted up for the accommodation of its congregation. USHER'S' QUAY SJEETING-HO USE, It is said that this congregation was formed in 1695. The building stands in a yard off Usher's-quay, and has male and female charity schools attached to it. These schools are sup- ported chiefly by permanent funds. IHENDJCJTY ASSOCIATION, This society was formed in 1818, during the general prevalence of famine and fever, and, after contending with many difficulties, its utility has so risen in public estimation, as to afford hopes of its permanence. The paupers are divided into classes, and such as are able to work lo8 Modern dublix. are jiaid according to their labours. The aged and infirm are fed, lodged, and clothed, and the sick and maimed are sent to appropriate hospi- tals, or receive medical attendance at their own habitations. Schools and work-rooms are at- tached, in which the children are educated and initiated into useful employments. The Association originally occupied the Dublin Society premises in Hawkins's-street, and afterwards an extensive concern in Copper- alley, from which they have removed to Moira House, on Usher's-island. This valuable insti- tution is supported by voluntary contributions, and, by its exertions has cleared the streets of lazy and importunate vagrants, while it has in- troduced to habits of industry and morality, and restored to society as sound members, thousands who, but for this meritorious association, had continued to infest the community as mendi- cants, or perhaps worse characters. ro UR CO UR TS mARSHALSEA, This building stands near Thomas-street, and is much too small for the number of prisoners confined in it, as debtors, who are desirous to receive the benefit of the maintenance and in- solvent acts, must be admitted from all parts of Ireland. The building is one hundred and CHAPEL, MEETING-HOUSE, &C. 159 eighty feet by one hundred and twenty, and is divided into two court yards. In the upper are the marshal's house, deputy's apartments guard-room and common hall, over the latter of which are the rooms of the prisoners. In the lower court are a chapel, infirmary, and ball-court. A new yard has been added, with an additional building, where the poorer prisoners have apartments with beds rent free, and, in cases of great indigence, they are supplied with bread. FRANCIS' STREET CHAPEL. This chapel stands on the site of the old Franciscan Abbey, on the east side of Francis- street. It is an old, but firm building, and is resorted to by a large congregation. The cler- gymen have a residence adjoining the chapel. PLUNKET'ST. mEETING- HOUSE. This seems to have been the first regular tongrcgation of Independents in Dublin, and was formed in IT 74. This place is generally much crowded. BAPTIST MEETING' HO USE. This religious community was established in Dublin about 16^0; the Urbt of this persuasion R 'I ^ 160 MODERN DUBLIN. having come over to Ireland shortly after Crom- well's conquests. The present house, in Sw ift's- alley, was built in 1 738, on the site of the former house. They hold the doctrine of adult baptism by immersion. HIE ATH' STREET CHAPEL. This chapel was opened in 1782. It stiuids at the rear of the houses on the east side of Meath-street, opposite Hanbury-Ianc, and is a handsome octagonal building-, with a gallery extending along five of its sides. The former chapel of this parish stood in Bridgefoot-street, at the corner of Mass-lane. ST. CATHERINE'S CHURCH. This church stands in Thomas-street, and was originally built in 1 105. The present church was erected in 1769, and has a front of mountain granite in the Doric order: four semi- columns, with an entablature enriched by trig- lyphs, are surmountod|l>y a noble pediment in the centre. The entablature, which is continued the entire length of the front, is supported at each extremity by two pilasters. In the centre, between the columns, is an Ionic arched door, ■^ ST. JAMES'S CHURCH. 161 with a circular pediment, and in the intermediate space between the columns and the pilasters are two series of well-proportioned circular-headed windows. On each side of the pediment is a handsome stone balustrade. The interior of the church is eighty feet by forty^nine. Eight Corinthian pillars rise from the galleries, on which the roof seems to rest, though in fact if extends from wall to wall without any interme- diate support. The communion table is deco- rated by composite columns, interspersed with stucco ornaments. This church possesses much architectural beauty. ST. JAmES'S CHURCH. The former parish church of St. James was built previous io the time of the English inva- sion. The present is a modern structure, stand- ing within the cemetery, at the rear of the houses on the north side of James's-street, and is devoid of external decoration. In the year 1J96, King John made a grant of this parish to the Abbey of St. Thomas, for the support of the poor. At a subsequent period the parish was divided into two distinct parishes, when the chapel of St. Catherine became a parish church. 162 -MODKRN DUBLIN. iS^ar, JAMES'S CHAPEL, The chapel of this parish is situated at the rear of the houses on the east side of Watling- street. It is an old building;, with a large house for the acoommodalion of the clergymen by whom the duties afe performed. FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, This building was erected in 1704, and stands at the west end of James's-street. It was origi- nally an asylum for lunatics, common beggars, and poor children of every description, but other hospitals having been established for the indi- gent and diseased, it became wholly appropri- ated to the foundling department. This hospital afiords a comfortable asylum for infants from the earliest period of their existence, where they receive an education which prepares them to go abroad into the world. The preservation of exposed children is a most laudable charity, find must be the means of rescuing many infiints from destruction. For- merly children were received at all times, with- out any ijiquiry, a cradle being placed at the gate for their reception ; but this facility of admittance having been removed, the number now received is very limited, and under con- siderable restrictions. FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 163 The front of the hospital extends nearly four hundred feet, having a large area where the boys exercise, and the girls have a similar one in the interior. The dining hall is one hundred and twenty feet by forty, and is furnished with forty tables, capable of accommodating twelve hundred children. In the centre of the build- ing is the chapel, and in a detached situation is a well- ventilated infirmary, which contains one hundred and forty-four single beds. The num- ber of children on the establishment was for- merly from six to seven thousand, and the annual expense between £30,000 and £40,000, defrayed by Parliamentary grants, and a tax on all the houses in Dublin. It was a scene calcu- lated to inspire emotions of the purest delight in the breast, to see such a number of children, who had been snatched perhaps from death, enter the hall at the hour of dinner, and after having partaken, with evident satisfaction, of their comfortable meal, and sung a hymn, return in regular order to their respective avocations. The number on the establishment has been lately very much diminished, and is not, probably, more than two thousand at present. 164 MODERN DUBLIN. SWMFT'S HOSPITAL, The celebrated Dean Swift, who died in 1745, bequefithed £11,000, which was nearly the M'hole of his properly, for the purpose of found- ing an hospital for lunatics and ideots. With the addition of some other charitable donations, and grants from Parliament, this benevolent object was carried into effect in 1757. It is situated on the north side of Bow-lane, is capa- ble of accommodating one hundred and seventy- seven patients, and is a substantial well-built edifice, extending one hundred and forty-seven feet in front. It consists of six wards, occupy- ing two long parallel buildings, three hundred and twenty- seven feet by thirty- three each. The cells are twelve feet by eight, and there is no communication between the male and female patients. There are, besides these, nineteen apartments for chamber boarders, who pay each an hundred guineas per annum, and have each a servant for their exclusive use. There are also accommodations for forty-eight ward board- ers, who pay sixty guineas per annum each. The patients are permitted, at proper times, to walk in the gardens, and some improvements lia\e been made which contribute much to the STEVENS'S HOSPITAL. 165 comfort of the unfortunate inmates. The an- nual expenditure of this establishment is above £5000. STEVENS'S HOSPITAL. This edifice stands on the south side of the LifFey, near Swift's Hospital, and was com- menced in 1720. Doctor Richard Stevens hav- ing bequeathed an estate of £750 per annum to his sister, Griselda Stevens, to be vested in the hands of trustees after her decease, for the pur- pose of founding an hospital for curable poor persons ; daring her lifetime, to fulfil her bro- ther's intentions, she commenced the present building, but the plan proving too expensive for the endowment, the snm of £1400 was obtained by public subscription, which enabled the gover- nors to complete the edifice at an expense of £16,000. It forms a spacious square of two hundred and thirty-three feet by two hundred, hiiviiig ill (iio centre an area surrounded by a piazza, leading to the different parts of the build- ing, which is capable of receiving three hundred patients. The chapel is a convenient structure, and for tlio support of the chaplain considerable bequesl^ were left by the celebrated Stella, and Doctor Sterne, Bishop of Clogher. There 166 MODKRxV DURLIK. is a library attached, for the use of the chaplain and medical gentlemen belonging to the hos- pital — the books are the bequest of Doctor North. In the west front is a theatre for sur- gical operations. The annual income of this institution is about £2,500 per annum, besides a parliamentary grant of £1,500. MO VAX, HOSPITALyKJLmAINHAm. This hospital, which was established for dis- abled and worn-out officers and soldiers, was , commenced in 1 680, and opened for the recep- tion of invalids in 1684, at an expense of £23,559. It forms a rectangle of three hundred and six feet by two hundred and eighty-eight, with an area in the centre laid out in grass-plots and gravel walks, and nearly surrounded with a piazza. The centre of the north front is deco- rated with Corinthian pillars, and an entablature, over which is a handsome steeple. The inte- rior is fitted up with neatness and simplicity. The dinining-hall is one hundred feet by forty- live, and the lower part of the walls is decorated with a variety of military weapons, fancifully arranged. The upper part, on three sides, is ornamented with portraits. There is a chapel attached, which has a variety of ornaments in KILM.UNHA.VI GOAL. — HOSPITAL. 167 Irish oak, richly carved, and a coved ceiling, highly decorated in stucco. The hospital con- tains accommodations for four hundred men. A fine militiiry road leads from the building to Usher's-island, where it is entered through a grand Gothic gateway, from which the pros- pective view of the rural scenery in the back ground has a very romantic appearance. KIXsmAJNHAm GOAL. This is the prison of the County of Dublin, and receives both debtors and felons. The building is enclosed by a lofty wall, and consists of two quadrangles, in which are apartments for the governor, a chapel, infirmary, work- room, common hall, and fifty-two cells. It is well ventilated and accommodated with spacious yards. HOUSE OF RECOVERY y CORK- ST, This useful institution was erected in 1804, by subscriptions and a parliamentary grant, for the reception of the poor, suflfering under con- tagious fever. It is situated in a field of about three acres, and is composed of two parrallel buildings of one hundred and sixteen feet by thirty-five, of which the eastern contains the 168 MODERN DUBLIN. sick, and the western the convalescent. The number of persons received, during a period of sixteen years after its establishment, amounted to 40,629. STOVE TENTER' HO USE, This most useful monument of private mu- nificence was erected in 1815, by Thomas Pleas- ants, Esq. whose name will ever grace the an- nals of the Irish metropolis. Its object is to prevent the inconveniences to which the poor weavers were exposed in wet weather, when many thousands of them were deprived of em- ployment, frequently for several weeks together. It is situated in Brown-street, at the rear of the Weaver's-square, and consists of a long edifice of three stories, surmounted in the centre with a cupola and spire, and ornamented at each end with the weavers' arms. On the ground floor are four furnaces, with large metal tubes which run horizontally to each extremity of the build- ing ; by means of these, the whole edifice is heated, as the flooring of each story is formed of iron bars, through which the heat passes. Along these floors the tenters extend,' con- structed on machinery, by which the cloth is stretched to any breadth or tension. The only HOUSE OF CORECTIOX — MKATH HOSPITAL. H)9 charge to the manufiicturer is 2s. 6d. for every piece of cloth, and 5d. for every chain of warp, which barely defrays the expense incurred for coals, &c. This establishment was erected at an expense of £12,964 12s. lOd. and is vested in trustees for the benefit of the public. HOUSE OF CORRECTION, This building is situated on the CircularRoad, near New-street, and is well adapted to the purposes for which it was intended. The keep- er's lodge advances beyond the main body of the building, and at the angles are projecting turrets which command the main walls on the outside. In these centinels are placed to prevent any attempts to escape. On the front is this inscrip- tion : " Cease to do evil — learn to do well.'''' The city arras, consisting of three blazing castles, are emblazoned over the gateway, with this ap- propriate motto : " Obedientia Civium Urbisfeli- citasy The prisoners are arranged into classes, and kept usefully employed. mEATH HOSPITAL. This institution was established iji 1771, and was originally situated on the Coorabe. The present building stands in Long-lane, near 170 MODERN DUBLIN. New street. It is conducted on similar prin- ciples with Mercer's Hospital. Mr. Pleasants gave ,£6000 towards the support of this estab- lishment, part of which was expended in its erection. JST, KEVIN'S CHURCH, The ancient church of St. Kevin was erected before the English invasion. St. Kevin was the first abbot and bishop of Glendalogh. The present building stands in Upper Kevin-street, on the site of the former church, nearly in the centre of the cemetery, in which there are some handsome monuments. Its exterior, although the structure is of modern erection, is altoge- ther devoid of ornament. ST, LUKE'S CHURCH, This church is situated on a rising ground at the rear of the houses on the north side of New-market, and has a passage leading to it from Skinner's-alley, but its principal entrance is at the head of the avenue, leading from the Coombe, which is planted on both sides with elm trees. It is a large stone building, without any ornament, and was erected in the beginning of the last century. The parish of St. Luke was originally a part of St. Nicholas Without, ST. PATRICK'S CATHKDRAL. 171 and was known by the name of the Donore District, until 1707, when it was, by Act of Parliament, formed into a separate parish. ST. PA TRICK'S CATHEDRAL. This venerable edifice stands at the lower end of the street to which it gives name, on the site of a parochial church, said to have been founded by the patron saint of Ireland, who is stated to have baptized his first converts at a well, near the present site of the steeple. It was built by Archbishop Comyn, about 1190, who amply endowed it as a collegiate church, placing in it thirteen prebendaries, which were afterwards increased to twenty-two. His suc- cessor erected it into a cathedral, appointing a dean, precentor, chancellor, and treasurer. In 1362, this building was much injured by acci- dental fire, but was repaired by Archbishop Minot, who also erected the steeple in 1370. In an ancient registry of St. Patrick's, com- mencing with 1367, it is recorded, that, " after the burning of St. Patrick's church, sixty strag- gling and idle fellows were taken up, and obliged to assist in repairing the church, and building the steeple ; who, when the work was over, returned to their old trade of begging, 172 MODERN DUHLrS, bat were banished oat of the diocese in 1376, by Robert de Wikeford, successor to Minot." The names of those vagrants are given in the registry. The spire was erected in 1 750, from a legacy left by Doctor Stearne, Bishop of Clogher, for that parpose. In 1130, six minor canons, and as many choristers, were instituted by Archbishop Talbot in this cathedral. The entire length of the building is three hundred feet, and its breadth eighty ; of this space the nave occupies one hundred and thirty feet, the choir ninety, and St. Mary's chapel, which in 1665 was appropriated to the use of the French Protestants, fifty-five feet. The transept, which is one hundred and fifty-seven feet long, contains the chapter-house and the parish church of St. Nicholas without. The nave consists of a centre and side aisle, sepa- rated by octagonal pillars, which support Gothic arches, and, though plainly ornamented, have a pleasing effect. The choir is truly beautiful, and the fine arch which forms its western termi- nation, is at once bold, light, and elegant. The roof, which was composed of groined arches, was, witli the exception of one arch, taken down some time since, from an apprehension that the walls were not strong enough to bear ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL. 173 the weight ; it is now of stucco, and still retains its ancient graceful form. The Archbishop's throne and the stalls are of varnished oak, neatly sculptured, and the altar-piece, which represents a glory under a half-drawn curtain, has a fine effect. The organ is said to be the best in Ireland. The tower of the steeple, which contains a ring of eight fine-toned bells, is one hundred and twenty feet high, and the spire be- ing one hundred and three, the height from the ground to the top of the ball is two hundred and twenty-three feet. This church, according to 'ancient records, was a building of great extent and splendour. The Close was encompassed by a wall, contain- ing within its circuit the palace of the arch- bishop, the houses of the dean, dignitaries and prebendaries, and the halls and dormitories of the minor canons and vicars-choral. The choir was covered with a curious stone roof of azure colour, inlaid with stars of gold, and the win- dows amounted to one hundred. The vaults and aisles were supported by forty great pillars, and in the walls were several niches, filled with .images of the saints. There were formerly three entrances, over one of which, called St. Patrick's gate, was a window embellished with 171 iMOUERN DUBLIN. stained glass, but no part of it now remains. The great stone arch which covered the western aisle, having fallen during the reign of Henry Vlll. the rubbish raised the floor three feet above the level, but the original has been disco- vered, and appears to have been composed of small burnished tiles, which bear the representa- tion of an indented figure. The monuments here are more numerous than in Christ Church, but the geneiality of them are inferior in point of workmanship; several of them are very ancient. The most remarkable in the nave are the following : — A huge stone in memory of Michael Tre- gury, who was Archbishop of Dublin in 1471. He is represented in bass-relief, in his pontifical habit. There is a Latin inscription round the margin of the stone, in old English characters. The monument of Doctor Narcissus Marsh, who was Archbishop of Armagh, consists of a tablet bearing a long Latin inscription beneath a canopy, well executed in statuary marble, and ornamented on each side by coupled Corinthian columns on pedestals, their entablature sup- porting urns ; the whole in variegated Italian marble. He died in 1713, and was buried in the adjoining cemetery, near the wall of the ST. Patrick's CATHtDRAL. 175 libary which was established by his own munifi- cence, for the benefit of the public. The monument of Dean Swift consists of a plain slab of marble under his bust, which is considered a good likeness. The inscription, composed by himself, is strongly expressive of his turn of mind, and his feelings with respect to his country. On the adjoining pillar is another tablet to the memory of Mrs. Johnson, better known to the world under the name Stella, who was wife to Dean Swift. She bequeathed £1000 to sup- port the chaplain of Stevens's Hospital. Near the south entrance is a marble tablet, erected by Dean Swift, to the memory of his servant, Alexander Me couuterscored."' SARAH BRIDGE, The foundation of this bridge, which is situ- ated opposite the Phoenix Park, was laid in 1791, by Sarah. Countess of \\'eslmoreldiid, 194 MODERN DUBLIN. after whom it was named. It consists of bat one elliptical arch, 104 feet in diameter, and is 256 feet long and 38 broad. The key-stone is thirty feet above low water. Near this bridge, on the south side of the river, stand the Artil- lery Barracks, not far from which is St. John's Well, a place much frequented on St. John's day by the lower orders, for the purpose of drinking the w ater, on the supposition of its efficacy at that time for the cure of diseases. TVELLINGTON TESTimONIAL. This monument stands in the Phoenix Patk, near the Salute Battery, and was erected by \oluntary subscription to commemorate the ex- traordinary achievements of the Duke of Wel- lington. It consists of a massive obelisk, truncated, and of thick and heavy proportions. On the four sides of the obelisk are inscribed the names of all the victories gained by him, from his first career in India, to the memorable battle of Waterloo. The whole structure is of plain mountain granite, without any decoration, and is 205 feet in height. Before the centre of the principal front stands a narrow pedestal which is intended to support an equestrian sta- tue of the Duke. Upwards of £16,000 have THCKNIX PARK. — ORPH A N-H I :sK. lUJ been expended on this monument, though it still remains in an unfinished state. PHiENIX PARK, This Park formerly belonged to the Knights Templars, but being surrendered to the crown, it was converted into a deer-park, in the reign of Elizabeth. It contains 1086 Irish phintation acres, is beautifully diversified with woodland, champaign and rising ground, embellished with extensive sheets of water, and plentifully stock- ed with deer. Near the centre is a fluted column, thirty feet high, with a Phoenix on the capita!, erected by the Earl of Chesterfield during iii.s Viceroyalty. In the Park is the Viceregal Lodge, the houses of the Ranger and prtiicipal Secretary, the Powder Magazine, tlie Hibernian School, and Royal Infirmary. Not iar from the Park is Dunsink, where an Observatory is established in pursuance of the will of Doctor Andrews, Provost of Trinity College. The situation is considered peculiarly favourable. TEmALE ORPHAN- HOUSE. This institution was commenced in 1790, by Mrs. Edward Tighe and Mrs. Esle, which met m2 196 MODERN DUBLIN. with such general patronage, that the present extensive building was erected two years alter, for the purpose. It stands on the north Circular Road, and is capable of containing 160 children, who must be destitute of both parents, and be- tween the ages of five and ten at the time of admission. They are all educated in the prin- ciples of the established church, and taught reading, writing, needle-work, and whatever may qualify them for servants in different capa- cities. The annual expense is less than £3,000, which arises from Parliamentary grants, sub- scriptions and donations, and the produce of the children's work. nVBLIN PENITENTIARY. This is a plain substantial edifice, with a hand- some front, and cost about £10,000. It was commenced in 1812, and presents a front to Grange-gorraan-lane of 700 feet, is in depth 400, and occupies a space of three acres. Solitary confinement has been adopted here, with a gradual progress to society, as the con- vict becomes reclaimed. Persons continuing incorrigible are in the end transported to Bo- tany Bay, Great attention is paid to the mo- ral and religious instructions of the prisoners, HOUSE OF INDUSTRY. 197 from which the happiest effects have already l^een perceptible. HO USE OF JND USTR Y, This institution was established by Act of Parliament in 1773, and is chiefly supported by Parliamentary grants. It was originally opened for the indiscriminate admission of pau- pers from all parts of Ireland, but is now restricted to aged and infirm paupers, ideots, incurable lunatics, and orphan children, of the county and city of Dublin. The building consists of an oblong parallel- ogram, whose sides are 265 ieei by 230, which, besides the lodging- rooms and dining- hall, con- tains apartments for the officers, workshops, and a ware-house, where work done by the poor is given out and received. Clothing is gratuitously furnished, and inmates who are able to work are allowed one fourth the produce of their labour. To the House of Industry are attached five Hospitals, each for distinct cases — namely, fe- ver, chronic, and surgical patients. They af- ford relief to the sick poor of the county and city of Dublin. The physicians are authorised, occasionally, to change the diet to beef, mutton, w iue, &c. for such of the patieuta as require it. 198 MODERN DUBLIN. In tbe lunatic department, such of the inmates as can be encouraged to work are employed, which has been found of great utility, as from the improvement thereby effected in their health and state of mind, several patients have been within the last year restored to their friends. A dispensary is attaclied, which affords ad- vice and medicine to the s^ick poor of the north- west district of the city, who are not consideijed objects of hospital accommodation; in this, 41,650 have been relieved within the last year. Throughout the whole of this extensive con- cern a degree of cleanliness, comfort, and con- venience is displayed, which must gratify every visitor, and reflects the highest credit on the persons engaged in its superintendence and management. The total number of persons in charge of the Governor, on the I2th of Sep- tember, 1827, was 2007. MING'S INNS, This building stands at the top of Henrietta- street, and was commenced in 1802. The part of the edifice which has been finished consists of two wings, and looks towards Constitution- hill, and the rear blocks up Henrietta-street in a very awkward manner. The front of the wings KING'S XNNS. Vide p. 198, ^H ^m ^ ^ 1 ^^ g; fl ^i^";^ — -W k'&p' 1 ■5 ■£:^=r H ^c^ s VelUngton Testimonial. Nelson's Pillar. Vide p. 194. Vide p. 316 LINEN HALL. 199 is very handsome, being ornamented in n truly chaste and classic style. The dining-hall is 81 feet by 42, and is ornamented at each end by four Ionic columns, which support a massive frieze and cornice, on which repose statues of the four cardinal virtues. The Library is 42 feet by 27, and contains a considerable number of volumes. Commons are provided in the dining- hali during the law term, and in vacation during the sitting of the Court of Exchequer. The society consists of benchers, barristers, attor- nies jand students, who, in term time, dine in the hall, which is called keeping commons. Absentees pay a fine the amount of two days commons. The government of this society is vested solely in the benchers. The King's Inns stood originally on the site of the Royal Ex- change, where the barristers and benchers lodg- ed for two centuries. In 1542, the Inns of Court were removed to the monastery of the Dominicans, where the Four Courts now stand. LINEN HALJL, The first part of this extensive building was erected in 1 728, since which period such addi- tions have been made, that it now consists of six large courts, surrounded by stores, which communicate below by piazzas, and above by 200 MODERN DUBLIN. galleries. It contains five hundred and fifty- seven rooms, occupied by factors and country drapers, an elegant coffee-room, and a board- room for the trustees. The sale commences daily at nine o'clock, and continues to four; no candle light, or fire of any kind, being per- mitted. The factors are allowed a commission, according to the value of the goods, and the extent of credit. A yarn hall has also been erected here. The neatness and taste with which the linens are prepared for market, are well worthy the inspection of the stranger. NEWGATE. This mansion of misery was erected in 1773, at an expense of £16,000. It is a large qua- drangular pile, of three stories, extending one hundred and seventy feet in front, one hundred and twenty-seven in depth, and having, at the external angles, four round towers. In the front are the guard-room, hospital, common- hall, long-room, and chapel ; and on the other sides are the cells, which are each twelve feet by eight. The cells for the condemned are truly gloomy, and are nine in number, compos- ing the cellerage of the east front. There are two common halls attached to the prisoners' yard, where they have liberty to walk. LINEN jtlAJLis, Vi''e p. 199. NETVGATE, Vide p. 200. *>^-^- — i^ff roSiER AQUEDUCT, ST. michan's church. 201 The name applied to this prisou is that which was given to the old gaol of the city in Coni- market, from its having been formerly one of the city gates. A regular discipline is kept up here, by which that refractory spirit which for- merly prevailed, has been so completely sub- dued, that the use of irons can be dispensed with, except in ca^es of capital convictions. Near Newgate is the Sheriffs' Prison, which is solely appropriated to the use of debtors. Abuses of the grossest kind^ formerly prevailed in this place, but they have been, in a great measure, corrected. The City Marslialsea, which adjoins the Ses- sions-House, is for the conhnement of persons under process of the Lord Mayor's Court, and the Court of Conscience ; they are generally of the poorest classes, and depend entirely upon Ciisual charity for the supply of their wants. ST, miCHANS CHAPEL, This chapel stands in North Anne-street, and has a front of mountain stone, built in the Go- thic style, with pointed arched windows, mina- rets, &c. The interior is laid out in the Gothic style also, and some of the walls are decorated with figures of several of the principal Irish saints, in bass-relief. 202 MODKKN DUD LIN. mAR Y'S' ABBEY. This congregation was formed before 1689, as it was in existence, as a distinct church, at tliat period. The Rev. William Jacque is sup. posed to have been its first minister. Of lute years they have assumed the title of " The Scots' Church,'* and maintain the ecclesiastical disci- pline and form of worship adopted by the reli- gious establishment of Scotland. About the middle of the ninth century, an Abbey for the Benedictine Order was founded here, but in the year 11 39, it was granted to the monks of the Cistercian Order, and the Bene- dictines were compelled to conform to the Cis- tercian rule. In 1238, Felix O'Ruadan, who had been Archbishop of Tuam, retired to this house, where he died, and m as buried at the foot of the altar. In 1718, while digging in the ruins, there was found a prelate in his pontifi- cals, supposed to have been this Archbishop. This institution was possessed of immense es- tates in several parts of Ireland, all of which, with the Abbey, were surrendered to Henry VIII. in 1573. lu 1676, the building of Essex Bridge, which was carried away in 1687, was commenced w ith the stones of St. Mary's Abbey. JESJ^JSX BRIDGE. Viile p. ?03, IRON BRIDGE, Vide p. 221, CARLISLE BRIDGE. Viile p. ^231 ESSEX BRIDGE — STRAND-STREET. 203 A beautiful image of the Virgin, with the child Jesus in her arms, which belonged to this Abbey, is still in the possession of the Roman Catholics of St. Mary's parish. — • Within, 5 Nicholas, } Without, 3 Peter's, Thomas's, Werburgh's, 144 1,904 801 714 2,409 ,3,002 2,007 540 263 285 2,831 3,769 764 19,443 DECREASE. Anne's, 328 Andrew's, 581 John's, 57 Mary's D onny brook 100- Paul's, 2,241 3,30: Increase in Thirteen Parishes, . , 19,433 Deduct Decrease in Five Parishes, 3,307 Totaflncrease between 1821 & 1831, 16,126 or 111 per Cent. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. APR 1 1 2005 JUN 6 2005 B 000 003 406 6