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 ELEPHANT-HUNTING 
 
 IN 
 
 EAST EQUATORIAL AFRICA 
 
 BEING AN ACCOUNT OF THREE YEARS' IVORY- HUNTING 
 UNDER MOUNT KENIA AND AMONG THE NDOROBO 
 SAVAGES OF THE LOROGI MOUNTAINS, IN- 
 CLUDING A TRIP TO THE NORTH 
 END OF LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 ARTHUR H. NEUMANN 
 
 With Numerous Illustrations 
 By J. G. MiLLAis, E. Caldwell, and G. E. Lodge 
 
 Coloured Plate and Map 
 
 LONDON 
 ROWLAND WARD, limixeo 
 
 i66 PICCADILLY 
 1898
 
 
 ^ 3 //y 
 
 TO 
 
 iHaclroti of IHaclrotr 
 
 MY KIND FRIEND DURING MANY YEARS, WITH WHOM, 
 IN DAYS GONE BY, I PASSED SOME PERILOUS, THOUGH 
 PLEASANT, TIMES ON THE ZULU AND SWA2I BORDERS, 
 WHEN UNDER HIM IN THE GOVERNMENT SERVICE, 
 AND IN WHOSE HOME OF DUNVEGAN CASTLE THE 
 GREATER PART OF IT HAS BEEN WRITTEN, THIS LITTLE 
 ACCOUNT OF MY ELEPHANT-HUNTING ADVENTURES IS 
 
 AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
 
 PREFACE 
 
 The experiences of other wandering hunters have always 
 had so much interest for me, that I have ventured, 
 perhaps presumptuously, to conclude that my own may 
 possibly be thought worthy of perusal by those with 
 similar savage tastes. Even then I should hardly have 
 made bold to wield so unaccustomed a weapon as the 
 pen, were it not that my elephant-hunting has been 
 done in regions hitherto unvisited by the hunter. This 
 circumstance, and the fact that my account is of quite 
 recent adventures, describing faithfully, to the best of 
 my ability, the country and game as they actually are 
 to-day — an important quality in the value of such matter 
 — may, I hope, tend to justify my present more daring 
 enterprise. For, although I have hunted in South Africa 
 while yet the " high veldt " was black with wildebeeste 
 and the "bush veldt" still teemed with wild beasts, is 
 not A Hunter s Wanderings — to oo no farther back in 
 the classics of big game — too unapproachably fascinating 
 as a latest record of elephant-hunting there to admit of 
 rivals in that field } And for descriptions of a more 
 recent search for sport in the southern portion of the 
 continent, have we not the charming volume of Mr. 
 J. G. Millais, who to a facile pen adds the enormous
 
 viii ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 advantage of artistic talent, enabling him to illustrate his 
 own works ? 
 
 Of course, I am prepared to be denounced as cruel. 
 I admit at once that I am. This trait is part and parcel 
 of the barbaric tastes which caused me, in my earliest 
 years, to be stigmatised as a "cruel boy," by tender- 
 hearted members of the family, for my ardour in the 
 pursuit of the harmless, necessary cat, in company with 
 a couple of equally keen terriers, among the farmyards 
 of the neighbourhood (though I am bound to say that 
 the cats always escaped into trees or on the heights 
 of inaccessible ricks). One cannot complain of the 
 censure of kind-hearted people who object altogether 
 to the taking of life — on the contrary, I respect them. 
 But the attacks of such superior sportsmen as, while 
 themselves giving us graphic accounts of their exploits 
 in pursuit of the harmless eland, giraffe, and other 
 defenceless creatures, write in horror of the cruelty of 
 hunting elephants (having themselves not penetrated 
 far enough into the wilderness to get the chance) are 
 harder to bear. It is particularly cruel, they tell us, to 
 hunt cow elephants (especially to the hunter, no doubt). 
 I wish one of these gentlemen would come and show 
 us how to shoot bulls only, in the dense cover in which 
 elephants have to be sought in Equatorial Africa. 
 
 By all means let elephants and other wild animals 
 be preserved as far as possible. But as, unfortunately, 
 their continued existence is incompatible with the advance 
 of civilisation, the only way to do so successfully is by 
 making reserves in places where effective control can be 
 exercised alike over natives and Europeans.
 
 PREFACE ix 
 
 However, for those amiable sympathisers to whom 
 the descriptions of how I killed elephants can have no 
 interest, my account of how one of these animals very 
 nearly killed me may afford pleasure ; and if that should 
 be tempered by disappointment because it was not 
 altogether successful, they may hope that vengeance 
 may yet be consummated. Akin to the heathenish 
 propensity of my early youth above alluded to, was an 
 attempt I remember to have made to get out of sight of 
 houses in a secluded part of a common and fancy myself 
 in an uninhabited country ; and among the prophecies 
 uttered at a later period by observant Kafirs, who noticed 
 the development of my unquenchable thirst for prying 
 further and further into remote wastes, was one to the 
 effect that I should end by dying in a far wilderness, 
 inhabited only by wild beasts, where no smoke could be 
 seen the horizon round. 
 
 It remains only to express my thanks to the artists 
 
 (their names are a pledge for good work), who have 
 
 done their part so much better than I can hope to have 
 
 succeeded in mine, for the painstaking way in which they 
 
 have endeavoured to carry out my ideas — actuated, as 
 
 these have been throughout, by a desire to represent 
 
 every incident truthfully — to Dr. Geo. Kolb, Major 
 
 Eric Smith, Mr. J. R. W. Pigott, and other friends for 
 
 photographs much better than any of my own, and to 
 
 Mr. Rowland Ward for his courteous co-operation. I 
 
 am also indebted to Miss E. M. Bowdler Sharpe for 
 
 arranging and describing my butterflies. Several articles 
 
 of mine which appeared in the Field are incorporated 
 
 in some of the earlier chapters. 
 
 b
 
 X ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 1 should add, by way of guarding against any mis- 
 apprehension, that wherever I have used the term 
 "Central Africa" in this book, it must be understood in 
 its original and literal sense, and not as in any way 
 connected with Nyassaland, which has been (rather con- 
 fusingly), of late years, officially known by that title. 
 
 ARTHUR H. NEUMANN. 
 Bath.
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 Preliminary observations — iMrst acquaintance with Mombasa — Enter service of 
 LB. E.A. Company — Description of Mombasa — My hunting weapons — Organise 
 elephant-hunting expedition — My Swahili name — Our start — Desertions — Over- 
 land route adopted — Last outpost of civilisation — My terrier companion " Frolic" 
 — Reach Laiju — A fertile district — Build a stockade — " Papa," an old Ndorobo 
 — Hunting trip across Mackenzie River — The Ndorobo's idea of happiness — 
 Expedition unsuccessful — Shoot zebra and oryx on return — Side-shot at rhino- 
 ceros — The rhino's death- waltz — My second rhinoceros — His death-charge — 
 First sight of Waller's Gazelle — A rhino's close inspection — Shoot a giraffe — His 
 peculiar fall — Stalking herd of oryx — Device for scaring vultures — The Ndorodo's 
 one occupation — Ideal game country — Varieties of game — Return to camp — 
 Disheartening news — Loss of pack-animals — Experimental visit to Embe district 
 
 Pages I -28 
 
 CHAPTER H 
 
 ON THE JAM BEN I RANGE 
 
 Over lunbe hills to Mthara — Description of country — The natives : their appearance 
 and habits — Their mode of killing elephants — Fruitless search for game — Sight 
 bushbuck — Tempting chance of a rhino — Critical moment — Trumpetings heard 
 — An obstinate guide — First encounter with elephants — Reputation as hunter 
 at stake — A longed-for chance — My " cripjile-stopper " — Three elephants shot — 
 Change of camp — Friendly natives — Shoot an impala — Presents from natives — 
 Holding a " shauri "— The recjuest for tribute — "Blood-brotherhood" — An un- 
 pleasant ordeal — My elder brother " Ndaminuki " — Track elephant spoor — 
 Native curiosity — Sight another herd — Their favourite cover — A satisfactory 
 shot — A good day's work — Ivory trading a tedious process — Scarcity of impala 
 — Kenia — A reason for making " shauri " — Visit native kraals . . 29-52
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 CAMPING AT MOUNT KENIA 
 
 good rhino horn — A fresh campaign — Advantage of head shot — Exciting 
 encounter — Attacked by bees — A red-letter day — Eleven elephants killed — The 
 Kenia jungle — Wealth of butterflies — A crater lake — Hippos — Return to Mthara 
 — Start for the Gwaso Nyiro River — Signs of elephants — A hunter's disappoint- 
 ment — Sufferings from thirst — Encounter with lions — Rhinos — Filial affection 
 — Despatch of ivory — Return to Laiju — A hazardous undertaking — Hostile 
 natives ........... Pages 53-78 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 THE NDOROBO COUNTRY 
 
 Set out for Ndorobo country — Savage life — Camp at El Bogoi — Head waters of 
 Mackenzie River — A tribal raid — A disagreeable camp — Fishing for mineral — 
 Limestone springs — Bag two elands — Nearing Lorogi Mountains — Glimpse of 
 elephants — A thunderstorm — A handsome zebra — Start for Mount Nyiro — A 
 roundabout course — A fruitless journey — Return to El Bogoi . . 79-93 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 
 
 Ndorobo elephant-hunter — His weapons — Mode of hunting — My next success — The 
 spell broken — An early start — A simple repast — Tracking elephants — The hunt 
 — A promise fulfilled — Cross the vSeya River — A fall-trap — A gigantic beast — 
 My attendants — Food of elephants — Their appearance at close quarters — An 
 infuriated bull — Incredulous guides — A novel charm — Return to coast — The 
 Gwaso Nyiro River — Welcome at Laiju ...... 94-119 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 RETURN TO MOMBASA* 
 
 My new Lee-Metford — Advantage of solid bullet — Observations on rhinos — A white 
 companion — Bag a " Roi rhebok " — A punitive expedition — A land of plenty 
 — Our Christmas camp — Tribes round Mount Kenia — A playful escapade' — 
 Stung by hornets — A tribe on the war-path — A solitary wanderer — Sport and 
 science — Return to Mombasa — A pleasant change — ^Organise a new caravan — 
 An earthquake shock ......... 120-137
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 SECOND EXPEDITION 
 
 Change in rifle equipment — Reach Samburu — A waterless district — Watering donkeys 
 — Flocks of guinea-fowl — Ukambani — Among the Wakamba tribe — Mishap to 
 Frolic — An impassable river — Traces of elephants — Death of Frolic — A dis- 
 appointing day — Construct a canoe — Difficult navigation — Crossing the pack- 
 animals--A serviceable call — A disagreeable route — Interior of a crater — Nearing 
 the Lorogi Mountains — My old camp at El Bogoi . . . Pages 1 38- 166 
 
 CHAPTER VHI 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL 15000I 
 
 Comfortable quarters — Among old Ndorobn friends — A favourite elephant haunt — 
 Bag a giraffe — Lost in the bush — A deceitful guide — A grateful recompense — 
 Native jealousy — Travelling elephants — A pair of lovers — Camp by the Seya 
 River — The Mathews range — Kill five elephants — A malarious climate — Up the 
 Barasaloi River — A marvellous sight — Abundance of elephants — An exciting 
 hunt — A narrow escape — A good day's work ..... 167-191 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOOOI {co/l/i/ntCif) 
 
 well-earned rest — An Ndorobo harvest — Keen faculty of natives — A cool retreat 
 — A large rhino-^Fourteen elephants in a day's hunt — Distinctive character of 
 tusks — Trek with ivory to El Bogoi — Resemblance to Robinson Crusoe — 
 Experience as donkey-driver — An unexpected stroke of luck — Overloaded with 
 ivory — Stalking Gazelle — A fictitious report — A handsome pair of tusks — A 
 picturesque group — Welcome at El Bogoi ...... 192-2 1 2 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL liOCOI {coutiniied') 
 
 native duel — An offended guide — Camp by Mreya spring — Signs of elephants — A 
 wrong action — Dearth of water — Deemed a benefactor— Lions disturbed — A 
 chance lost — .S|iot for a mission station — Replenishing the larder — Back to El 
 Bogoi — A faithful headman — A remorse of conscience — A great disappointment 
 — An Ndorobo camp — News (jf an elephant preserve — Starvation times — INIan- 
 eating lions ........... 213-233
 
 xiv ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 A trying march — A Swahili yarn — Shoot an uncommon gazelle — The "high veldt" 
 — A jackal claims relationship — A curious episode — Thomson's gazelle and 
 Jackson's hartebeeste — My "lucky camp" — A new branch of obstetrics — A 
 land flowing with honey — My ivory store — A welcome sight — Disturbing a 
 siesta — A gardener's opportunity — Death of a favourite — A photographer's 
 disguise — Our route to Lake Rudolph — A providential escape . Pages 234-255 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 P'inal start for the lake — A desolate land — A curious fish — Trials during a hurricane 
 — Remains of a catastrophe — An aquatic race — Disturbed by a "shauri" — A 
 false alarm — A fisherman's paradise — Signs of Europeans — Remedy for lessening 
 the sick-roll — A fortunate coincidence — My first topi — At close quarters with a 
 rhino — Wealth of bird life — A feathered jockey — My cook's new entree — Simple 
 Christmas fare — The kraals of Reshiat ...... 256-287 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 A SOJOURN AT RE.SHLAT AND KERl5 
 
 Among artless savages — Scene of a massacre — Egrets and their hosts — Myriads of 
 mosquitoes — A satisfactory morning's work — Good out of evil — A new antelope 
 — A revolting disfigurement — The metropolis of Kere — Exchanging greetings — 
 Waifs from a European expedition — New Year's Day — A melancholy event — 
 Pacifying a chief — A consequence of lavish expenditure — Exorcising a marauder 
 — A model in eliony — Getting rid of a nuisance ..... 288-316 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 Back to Bassu — Vigilant guards — A miraculous escape — Acute sufferings — Native 
 solicitude — An exultant tribe — Rare luxuries — A long illness — An anti-slavery 
 tribe — A chief's prescription — Longing for a change — A relapse — My ' ' con- 
 valescent camp " — Start a poultry-yard — Breeding-time of topi — Native trappers 
 — A curious phenomenon — Fabulous elephants — Arrival of ivory -traders — A 
 happy coincidence .......... 3i7"343
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH {continued) 
 
 Adjustment of caravan — Desertion and disappointment — A school of hippos — "A 
 day of humihation " — My cknnsy specimen — A problem for scientists — An 
 elephant hunt — The reward of patience — Rapacity of a vulture — Shooting a 
 veteran — The tusk of a patriarch — Planning of transport — A diverting study — 
 Preparation of "biltong" — A triumphant show — Settling a point of honour — 
 A mistaken hardship — Treatment of carriers — Arrival of caravan Pages 344-369 
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 EN ROUTE FOR EL BOGOI 
 
 Easy stages — Astir betimes — A regretful shot — Diversity of zebra — A blessing in 
 disguise — A salutary lesson — Implementing a promise — A spider and its prey— 
 A gladdening feast — Lacking a handy camera — A curious coincidence — El 
 Molo mode of fishing — Stalking zebra — Departure from Lake Rudolph — Mount 
 Nyiro — A dispensation of Providence — A scene of carnage — El Bogoi camp — 
 Plearty greetings — A test of affection — Disappointed hopes . . . 370-388 
 
 CHAPTER XVH 
 
 CAMPING AT EL BOGOI 
 
 A vexatious disablement — A drastic cure — Man-eating lions — Juma's lion story — A 
 diary under difficulties — Predatory lions scared — Loss of pack-animals — Pre- 
 cautionary measures — Setting a bait — A tragic scuffle — An exciting moment — 
 A magician's failure — Cheering prospects — A novel excuse — The lions' den — 
 An effectual trap — My treacherous gun — The last of the besiegers — A joyful 
 moment — Anticipation and realisation — Methods of setting gun-traps . 389-407 
 
 CHAPTER XVHI 
 
 EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 
 
 A mountain excursion — A troublesome lion — My gun-boarer's tragic end — Three- 
 horned giraffe — Grevy's zebra — Varieties of oryx — Suggestion for British Museum 
 — Equatorial Elephants: their size, tusks, and peculiarity — Dimensions of
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 rhinoceros and zebra — Ndorobo conception of the Deity — A native's expectation 
 — Description of country — Parting with Ndorobos — Skittish pack-animals — A 
 compulsory action — Ikutha — Wakamlm raiders — Wasanya hunting weapons — A 
 long march — Entering Mombasa — A picturesque procession — Payment of carriers 
 — Valedictory retrospect ........ Pages 40S-435 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 A LIST OF THE LEPIDOPTERA COLLECTED RY MR. ARTHUR H. 
 NEUMANN ......... 437-447 
 
 INDEX 449
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Love-making I-'j-outispiece 
 
 Entrance to Mombasa Harbour 3 
 
 Portion of the Old Fort at Mombasa 4 
 
 GaZELLA GRAXTl ? ; GaZELLA PETERSI ? 9 
 
 Gazella grants 6 ; Gazella peters/ S ; Gazella thomsoxi 6 . lo 
 
 Thomson's Gazelle ? {Gazella t ho msoni) . . . . . . . n 
 
 Hippopotamus in the Tana River ■ . . 14 
 
 Mode of protecting Game from Vultures 25 
 
 A View of Embe 32 
 
 Ndaminuki (Author's Blood Brother) ........ 43 
 
 "Where to aim" 47 
 
 "The natives stick these tubs in trees for the accommodation of wild bees, 
 
 by which simple means they secure a regular supply of honey " . . 58 
 
 Native Girls and Women of Tribes near the foot of Mount 
 
 Kenia 61 
 
 Natives of Janjai District 65 
 
 Coloured Plate of Butterflies . . . . . . . . 66 
 
 Scene on Gwaso Nviro with Waller's Gazelle {I.ithooatiius walleri) 
 
 (J AND 9 in characteristic ATTITUDES 8l 
 
 Author's Dining-Table in Bower 87 
 
 Ndorobo Hunters 95 
 
 Ndorobo Hunter harpooning an Elephant 97 
 
 " One would not have known he was dead " . . . . . . 99 
 
 The Record Pallah Hokks [Aipyceros fiiela/iipus) 118
 
 xviii ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST A ERICA 
 
 FAGE 
 
 Summit of Mount Kenia 127 
 
 Dr. Kolb making Blood-Bkotheriiood with Wakwavi of Katheri 130 
 
 Author's Ivory Caravan arriving 133 
 
 Author's Porters depositing his Tusks at Custom-House . . 134 
 
 Auction Sale of Author's Ivory in Mombasa Custom-House . . 136 
 
 Watering Donkeys 140 
 
 VULTURINES and DOG I42 
 
 Making Dug-out Canoe ... 152 
 
 Pulling Donkeys through the Tana River . . . 158 
 
 Frolic's Grave 166 
 
 " Though it was still quite early, the Ndorobos had already cut up the whole 
 of the upper half of the huge mass. They were swarming all around ; the 
 bush was full of them and covered with meat cut into strips or piled in 
 junks. They had made fires all about ; and eating and work were going 
 on everywhere " . . . . . . . . . . .178 
 
 A Good Day's Work with Elephants 198 
 
 Grevy's Zebra {Equtis grevyi), showing Mode of Protecting from 
 
 Vultures 211 
 
 Author's Chef exercising his Art 219 
 
 Scratch Pack chasing wounded Hartebeeste {Biibalis jacksoni) . 240 
 
 Ndorobo Encampment in the "Subugo" Forest on the Lorogi 
 
 Mountains 243 
 
 Camp under Mount Nyiro 251 
 
 First Peep of Bassu from the South 257 
 
 Ca.mel Bones in Desolate Country on Edge ok Lake ... . 262 
 
 El Molo Fisher-Folk 264 
 
 Birds on Lake Rudolph 279 
 
 Pauw (Etipodoiis kori) and Bee-eater (Merops nubicus) .... 281 
 
 Dead Rhinoceros Cow of the Small Variety {Rhinoceros bicornis) . 284 
 
 Elephants and Egrets 293 
 
 A New Hartebeeste {Bubalis neiimaiuii, i and ? ) . . . . 302 
 
 Crocodile taking poor Shebane 309 
 
 "Kneeling over me, she made three distinct lunges, sending her left tusk 
 through the biceps of my right arm and stabbing me between the right 
 ribs, at the same time pounding my chest with her head and crushing 
 
 in my ribs "............ 323
 
 LIS T OF ILL US TRA TIONS xix 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Topi Hartebeeste i {Damalisciis jimda) 334 
 
 A Native Game-snare 337 
 
 Native Boxes made from Elephant Tusks 338 
 
 Rolling Hippo to Shore 347 
 
 Rhinoceros Skulls and Horns 353 
 
 Oryx Antelope {Oryx beisa) 363 
 
 Caravan Marching ; nearing the South End of Bassu . . . 3S1 
 
 Baited Trap for Hyena or Leopard 405 
 
 Lion Trap for Gap in Fence 406 
 
 Three-Horned Giraffe Skull (Gh-affa camelopardalis) .... 413 
 
 Young Female Giraffe of the Northern Species [Giraffa camelo- 
 
 pardalis) ............ 414 
 
 Zebra Hoofs 417 
 
 My Large Elephant Tusks 422 
 
 The Big Tusk (8 ft. yh in., 165 lbs.) presented by the Officers 
 SERVING IN British East Africa to H.R.H. the Duke of York 
 
 on the occasion of his Marriage 423 
 
 Mombasa 433 
 
 The Author 435 
 
 MAP OF EAST EQUATORIAL AFRICA.
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 Preliminary observations — First acquaintance with Mombasa — Enter service of 
 LB. E. A. Company — Description of Mombasa — My hunting weapons — Organise 
 elephant-hunting expedition — ^My Swahili name — Our start — Desertions — Over- 
 land route adopted — Last outpost of civilisation — My terrier companion " Frolic " 
 — Reach Laiju — A fertile district — ^Build a stockade — " Papa," an old Ndorobo 
 — Hunting trip across Mackenzie River — The Ndorobo's idea of happiness — 
 Expedition unsuccessful — Shoot zebra and oryx on return — Side-shot at rhino- 
 ceros — The rhino's death-waltz — My second rhinoceros — His death-charge — 
 First sight of Waller's Gazelle — A rhino's close inspection — Shoot a giraffe— 
 His peculiar fall — Stalking herd of oryx — Device for scaring vultures — The 
 Ndorobo's one occupation — Ideal game country — Varieties of game — Return 
 to camp — Disheartening news — Loss of pack-animals —Experimental visit to 
 Embe district. 
 
 Africa is a big country. Few people who have no personal 
 acquaintance with more than one portion of the continent 
 realise how big. Thus in South Africa anything outside of 
 the various colonies and states that make up what is commonly 
 included under that designation used to be " somewhere up 
 about the Zambesi," though it might be a thousand or more miles 
 beyond. Just so now the average idea of Central Africa held 
 in this country is expressed in the query " anywhere near 
 Buluwayo ? " I would therefore ask you to kindly glance at 
 a map of Africa and notice what a long way Mombasa is 
 from Cape Town, and how far the equator is north of even the 
 Zambesi. 
 
 Though Durban is now the handsomest and most up-to- 
 
 B
 
 2 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 date seaport town in South Africa, when I first landed there 
 early in 1869 it was a comparatively primitive place. Never- 
 theless I always felt that I had come too late, and listened 
 with envy to the tales of those who were then old colonists 
 about elephants in the Berea ^ bush when they first were 
 " Jimmies " or newcomers. The elephants had been driven 
 far beyond the borders of the colony by the time my foot 
 first sank into the deep sand which served for streets then, 
 and I never overtook them in South Africa. The last buffalo 
 even Natal contained was killed a year or two after my arrival. 
 Not but what I did find my way, during the many years I 
 wandered in South-Eastern Africa, to where the latter were 
 still in possession — big herds of them ; and other game, of 
 every kind peculiar to the country with the one notable ex- 
 ception above mentioned, yet swarmed. Some of those old 
 days might be worth recalling at another time ; but they never 
 satisfied me thoroughly. I hankered after the untouched 
 wilds which I knew still existed in Equatorial Africa : where 
 the elephant yet roamed as in primeval times ; where one 
 would never see the wheel-mark of a Boer's waggon nor hear 
 the report of any gun but one's own. 
 
 But circumstances — largely connected with a certain 
 emptiness of the pocket — kept me back for something like 
 twenty years from attempting to penetrate into the interior 
 of the continent from another and more favourably situated 
 point. Even when in 1888 I made my first passing acquaint- 
 ance with Mombasa (before the days of the Imperial British 
 East Africa Company), as well as other African ports, in the 
 course of a voyage up the east coast, I was deterred by the 
 heavy cost which such an expedition as was said to be neces- 
 sary to enable one to go any distance inland would entail. 
 Two years later I was there (Mombasa) again ; but still the 
 difficulties in the way of making an independent trip after 
 elephants, and the lack of encouragement to undertake it in 
 
 1 The Berea is the fashionable suburb overlooking the harbour.
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 any other way led me to take service under the East Africa 
 Company for a time, that I might learn something of the 
 country and gain a knowledge of the management of a 
 caravan and a smattering of the Swahili language. Of a 
 little more than a year which I spent thus — first cutting a 
 bush road up the Sabaki River and afterwards joining in an 
 expedition to the interior — it is not my intention to write 
 
 Entrance to Mombasa Harbour. 
 
 (From a Photograph by Major Eric Smith.) 
 
 now, though there may be something worth telling about the 
 latter some day. I had also the opportunity of finding out 
 during that trip that elephants were not more difficult to kill 
 than other game, and resolved to devote myself to their pur- 
 suit. Then the offer of an appointment in Zululand took 
 me south again, but only to find after a year that the 
 monotony of the life was unsuited to me. So I reverted to 
 my original plan.
 
 4 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 Mombasa had always a great attraction for me. A sleepy, 
 old-world place, with its narrow streets and listless, picturesque 
 inhabitants, it was suggestive of primitive times. If, one 
 thought, the very port is so remote and untouched by modern 
 progressive influences, what mysteries enticing to the imagina- 
 tion may not the interior contain ? This, surely, was the 
 very country I had yearned for. The island had, moreover, 
 
 Portion of the Old Fort at Mombasa. 
 
 (From a Photograph by Major Eric Smith.) 
 
 beauties of its own, though these it is not my province to 
 describe, such as a picturesque and interesting old fort, a fine 
 harbour, and dreamy shady mango groves run wild producing 
 luscious fruit nearly all the year round. I always enjoyed 
 the time I was detained there. The prospect over the still 
 water in the cool of early twilight or by moonlight was 
 particularly soothing, with the quaint dhows at anchor and 
 fishing canoes paddling in and out or gliding before the soft
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 breeze, a loin-cloth hoisted between two upright wattles serving 
 for sail. The island too was then unspoilt. Such toy tram- 
 ways as had been laid down were for the most part overgrown 
 with grass and tropical vegetation ; overturned dolls' trucks, 
 rotting in the jungle, but emphasised the supremacy of nature. 
 Now, alas ! the place is all railways, iron roofs, and regulations, 
 a change decidedly not for the better from my point of view. 
 Let those who like them describe such " improvements." 
 
 I make these preliminary observations mainly with a view 
 to showing that I had had considerable African experience, 
 all of which was directly or indirectly of the greatest use to 
 me, before embarking on the expeditions I am about to 
 describe. I had shot much big game in South-Eastern Africa ; 
 had travelled many thousand miles, albeit with different means 
 of transport ; and had acquired such bush and veldt knowledge 
 as only a long apprenticeship can give — knowledge of the 
 greatest value not only to help one over difficulties but to 
 enable one to understand the varying conditions with which 
 one may be surrounded. 
 
 So that I was no novice when, in the end of November 
 1893, I landed once more in Mombasa, this time prepared 
 to at last carry out my long-cherished scheme for making an 
 independent expedition with my own caravan into the interior, 
 the main object of which should be elephant-hunting. I 
 hoped by this means to recoup myself through the ivory for 
 the outlay incurred in following my bent of wandering in 
 the most remote wilds I could reach. My weapons were a 
 double .577 (which I had already once had the opportunity of 
 testing on elephants, with good results), a single .450 — both 
 these by Gibbs, — a .250 rook rifle, and a shot-gun. This last 
 I afterwards discarded as unnecessary, while its cartridges 
 were an encumbrance. To these I added a common Martini- 
 Henry. 
 
 I know by experience that the routine of organising and 
 fitting out an expedition, starting it from the coast, and even the
 
 6 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 first part of the journey itself make uninteresting reading, and 
 anything that I may think worth mentioning on these subjects 
 I can more conveniently allude to elsewhere ; I will, therefore, 
 not worry my readers with tedious preliminaries of the kind 
 now, beyond saying that in one month I was ready with 
 about fifty men (all of whom I armed with Snider carbines) 
 and some twenty donkeys to start for the " bara " or interior, 
 with the intention of getting as far as I could and being away 
 as long as I liked. That was, I consider, a short time to take 
 in all the preparations necessary. Mombasa did not offer many 
 facilities for getting work done, and I had brought nothing but 
 my guns and cartridges with me ; but porters were plentiful, 
 and I was known to them, not unfavourably — my very Swahili 
 name, " Nyama Yangu " (my meat or my game), being 
 suggestive of good times. My headman was not altogether 
 a happy selection. He was a most polite, polished, and 
 picturesque Swahili gentleman of Arab descent, but not 
 very practical. Plucky he was, as I afterwards found, but 
 somewhat procrastinating and over punctilious about strict 
 Mahomedan observances to be altogether suitable to the rough- 
 and-ready life we had to lead. Owing partly to this not too 
 suitable appointment, some undesirable men got " written on " 
 as porters. There are abuses in the manner of engaging these 
 men ; and if not very carefully looked after, the wily rupee 
 plays an important but indiscriminating part in their choice, 
 quite unconnected with any useful qualifications. The result 
 became apparent pretty soon, but not, fortunately, on any very 
 serious scale. 
 
 Our start, two days before Christmas, was most smooth 
 and propitious. The men all turned up, and never was 
 there a happier and more enthusiastic lot of porters nor, 
 for the most part, a finer. Two or three desertions took 
 place a day or two after, causing a little temporary incon- 
 venience, and one gentleman took the belt containing my 
 watch with him, which had been hung on a bush behind me
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 while I was seeing the caravan off in the dusk. But strange 
 to say — whether because his conscience pricked him or that 
 he could not sell what it was so apparent he naust have stolen 
 — he came back of his own accord, watch and all, a few days 
 later. I forgave him, and he was a faithful and reliable man 
 for the rest of the trip. 
 
 Having had long experience of both ways of travelling, I 
 prefer on the whole the Central African system of a caravan 
 of porters for a hunting trip to the ox-waggons of South 
 Africa. Of course the latter means of transport have many 
 advantages and the others their drawbacks, and probably many 
 people would disagree with my conclusion. But with the 
 " safari " one is more mobile, independent of roads, and never 
 has those terrible " stickfasts " — so upsetting to plans and 
 tempers — to which waggons are liable. 
 
 I have no intention of inflicting upon the reader a de- 
 scription of the wearisome details of caravan travelling. It is 
 less monotonous to go through than to read about. The 
 exercise keeps you in good health, as a rule, and there is 
 always something to be done which prevents the afternoons 
 hanging heavily upon your hands ; while the constant change, 
 even from one disagreeable camp to another, makes variety of 
 a kind — never so tedious as stagnation. One soon shakes 
 down to the life, and finds one's tent as comfortable as any 
 house, while in the former you can never become a nuisance to 
 your neighbours. Breakfasting in the dark at 4 A.M. is trying 
 to one when fresh from civilised habits, I admit ; but one has 
 to and does get broken in even to that, and a most important 
 thing for one's comfort during the march it is to be able to eat 
 heartily at such unearthly hours. 
 
 I had decided to make Laiju — a district on the north side 
 of the Tana, and clpse to the foot of the Njambeni or Jambeni 
 range, which is a little east of Mount Kenia — my first 
 objective point, and to get as much farther north in the 
 direction of Lake Rudolph as I should be able, or as circum-
 
 8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 stances might seem to make desirable. I ventured to disregard 
 advice to take the Tana River route — involving a sea voyage, a 
 fresh organisation, and a journey through difficult and unhealthy 
 " fly "-infested bush all the way, with little useful help from 
 canoes (which could not take animals) against the stream — and 
 elected for the overland one through Northern Ukambani. 
 But I made the mistake of going round by Kibwezi on the 
 Uganda road, instead of following the more direct and con- 
 venient path used by Swahili traders and Wakamba visiting 
 the coast. At the little German mission station of Ikutha, 
 where one enters Ukambani, I passed the last outpost of 
 civilisation in this direction. I have reason to feel the 
 greatest gratitude to its hospitable head (Mr. Sauberlich) for 
 many kindnesses and ready assistance in various ways. 
 Shortly after leaving there I met Mr. Chanler returning to 
 the coast. I had already had the advantage of some talks 
 with Lieutenant Von Hohnel (previously Count Teleki's 
 companion) in Mombasa, who had been hurt by a rhinoceros 
 while travelling in his company, and from both these gentlemen 
 I received much useful information. I had long previously, 
 though, heard of Laiju and the Ndorobo country beyond from 
 Swahili traders as a good one for elephants, and resolved to 
 make that direction my aim, and as much farther as I could 
 attain. It had the special attraction for me that the country 
 that way was least known, and I was not likely to be hampered 
 by rival travellers, official or otherwise, there. Chanler gave 
 me a little half-bred terrier, named " Frolic," which proved a 
 charming little companion, and continued so until her sad 
 death on another expedition. 
 
 There is nothing worth recording in the way of sport during 
 all this part of the journey. The uninhabited (principally 
 desert) country traversed previous to entering Ukambani has 
 but little game, though here and there an odd head may be 
 picked up, — a Coke's hartbeeste, impala or zebra, — and a few 
 guinea-fowl sometimes help the pot.
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 But one animal, to which considerable interest attaches, 
 deserves more particular mention. In some parts of the 
 country to the left (or south) of the road between Duruma and 
 Taita — as, for example, about Pika-Pika and Kisigau, and 
 sometimes not far from Ndara — a gazelle is to be found about 
 which naturalists seem somewhat confused, namely G. petersi. 
 Some authorities seem to re- 
 gard this antelope as a mere 
 local variety of G. grajiti ; 
 but I am strongly of opinion 
 that it is quite distinct, and, 
 while taking the place of the 
 latter in the coast regions, 
 may be regarded as almost 
 intermediate between it and 
 G. tJiomsoni. I am able to 
 illustrate this by a photograph 
 of a series of skulls of the 
 three species in my possession. 
 These have, I may explain, 
 not been specially selected, 
 but are some of those I have 
 shot, which I happen to have 
 
 kept.^ It will be seen that they form a regular gradation, 
 the females corresponding exactly with the males in their 
 peculiarities. I am sorry that I have not been able to figure 
 a female Thomson's gazelle skull, as it appears there is not 
 one in England, not even in the Museum. I have, however, 
 been kindly given the photographs of two mounted heads 
 (the only ones, so far as I can discover, in existence in this 
 country), one of which is reproduced. It is a curious thing 
 that the female of this last gazelle seems almost to be in a 
 state of uncertainty as to whether it ought to bear horns or 
 
 ' That of the female petersi has been kindly gi\en me by a friend, as I had not one 
 myself. 
 
 Gazella granti 9 . 
 Length of horn 
 on curve, 12 in. 
 
 Gazella petersi 9 . 
 
 Length of horn 
 
 on curve, loS in.
 
 lo ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 not. For, while many specimens, like that illustrated, have 
 properly developed symmetrical horns, in some they are more 
 or less imperfect, others again being hornless. 
 
 Through Ukambani there is no game — there are too many 
 natives — and the march is not interesting. I will, therefore. 
 
 Gazella grauti i . 
 
 Length of horn 
 
 on curve, 26f in. 
 
 Gazella petersi <5 . 
 
 Length of horn 
 
 on curve, 17! in. 
 
 Gazella thomsotd {,. 
 
 Length of horn, 
 
 13 J in. 
 
 skip this part of the journey, fly across the Tana with its wide 
 shallow valley full of monotonous dense scrub, and land my 
 reader at Laiju, about five weeks' caravan journey from the 
 coast by the most direct route (though I did not reach there 
 until 22nd February 1894), which may be considered as 
 practically the commencement of the game country in this 
 direction.
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 Arrived here the first thing to be done was to estabhsh 
 friendly relations with the natives of the district, and open up 
 a food trade. This was not difficult, since Chanler had been 
 on good terms with them, and had been careful to keep market 
 prices for produce within reasonable bounds, for which I felt 
 
 THOMSON'S Gazelle 9 {Gasella thomsoni). 
 
 grateful to my predecessor. So the preliminary negotiations 
 only lasted a couple of days, and on the third Baikenda, one 
 of the leading men of the immediate neighbourhood— a weird- 
 looking, wizened old savage, suffering from rheumatism — came 
 with his retinue, bringing the sacrificial sheep, and we went 
 through the ceremony of " eating blood " most solemnly and
 
 12 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 impressively. I then made their hearts white with presents, 
 as their bodies with calico, and Baikenda and I became, as he 
 put it, as if born of one mother, emphasising the relationship 
 with expressive pantomime b\- squeezing suggestively his 
 shrivelled old breast with his hand. 
 
 It is a fertile district, and food was to be had in fair 
 abundance and considerable variety. Luscious bananas were 
 plentiful and fine yams cheap and good. I\Iy cook used to 
 make me what he called " smash-im-up " of the latter — a capital 
 substitute for mashed potatoes : indeed, as regards vegetable 
 products, I lived better while here than I ever did again, and 
 often, when restricted for months and months together to 
 porridge and cakes of coarse dry meal in the barren country 
 farther north, did I think of those delicious bananas. 
 
 Intending to make this my headquarters for a while, and 
 finding Chanler's boma too straggling to be a secure depot in 
 which to leave my goods in charge of a few men (though I 
 used it as a camp myself), I spent some time in building a 
 strong little stockade for this purpose. Various circumstances, 
 into the details of which it is not necessary to enter, prevented 
 my making any extended hunting trip for a much longer time 
 than I had intended to delay here. I was able to obtain meat 
 easily enough, as game of one sort or another was generally 
 to be found within a long walk of my camp — waterbuck 
 and zebra being the most numerous — and the young natives 
 were always pleased to accompany me, being keen for meat, 
 though they had a curious prejudice against letting their 
 womenkind see them with any. 
 
 Of my first small excursion in quest of elephants — although 
 unsuccessful in that I did not get a sight of any — a short account 
 may not be uninteresting, since I saw a good deal of other game, 
 and had a certain amount of sport ; but elephant-hunting being 
 the main object of my expedition — as it is to be the principal 
 subject of this book — I will not dwell too much upon it. It 
 occupied little more than a fortnight, and the farthest point I
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 reached was probably not more than about forty miles as the 
 crow flies away from my main camp. Laiju is about east-north- 
 east of Kenia (which, by the way, the natives here call Kilimara), 
 and the direction we took was nearly due east — but slightly to 
 the south by compass — from the former place. 
 
 An old Ndorobo, to whom I had been introduced by 
 Baikenda, and who, being too feeble to hunt, lived here 
 generally as a sort of dependant of his — mainly on charity — 
 had offered to show me where elephants were, within two or 
 three days' journey ; and, as I was not yet in a position to 
 start on a long trip, I gladh' accepted his offer, in hopes of 
 putting in a little of the time I was obliged to wait pleasantly 
 and perhaps profitabh'. The Ndorobos,^ of whom I shall have 
 more to say later on, are a kind of degraded Masai, living on 
 game, honey, etc., in the bush, something after the style of 
 the South African bushmen, the grand object of their desires 
 being elephants. They live a more or less nomadic life 
 in small communities scattered over a wide extent of East 
 Equatorial Africa, where no settled inhabitants are. The wild 
 region from here northward to Lake Rudolph is left entirely 
 to them. 
 
 On m}' outward journey, although I saw plenty of game, 
 I did not do more shooting than just to supply my men and 
 self with meat, for which a zebra or two and one or two 
 Grant's gazelles sufficed. I will go more into details in 
 describing our return journey, as it was then that I did most 
 shooting. But first, touching the elephants. We had crossed 
 several beautiful streams — the head waters of a considerable 
 tributary of the Tana, which Chanler and Von Hohnel have 
 called the Mackenzie River — and got into a prett}' dry country 
 beyond, where there was hardly any game. All the way the 
 bush was more or less open and easy to walk through, as we 
 
 ' I purposely refrain from using the .Swahili form of plural, W'a-ndorobo, because it is 
 no more correct than our own as applied to the Masai or Xdorobo language. I believe 
 the proper plural to be Londorobo, but am not sure.
 
 M 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 avoided the thicker parts. Our old guide was rather tedious, 
 insisting on our making short stages each day, having always 
 some excuse, such as the next water being a long way ahead, 
 or that we might come suddenly into the elephants' haunts 
 and disturb them prematurely. In reality he was in no hurry ; 
 having plenty of meat he enjoyed himself dawdling along, 
 camping early, and cooking and eating the rest of the day. 
 
 Hippopotamus in the Tana River. 
 
 (From a Photograph by Dr. Kolb.) 
 
 He was, however, such a nice old chap that I could never get 
 wild with him ; indeed, we were great chums, he was such a 
 pleasant contrast to the uncouth natives of this district, who 
 have no shadow of an idea of courtesy, while he, on the contrary, 
 was a polite old gentleman, like a Masai. He called me Papa 
 (with the accent, however, on the first syllable;, and as he was 
 a much older man than I — though with fewer gray hairs, I 
 am bound to confess — I could not do less, regarding the old
 
 I FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 15 
 
 fellow quite affectionately as I did, than return the compliment; 
 so we always called each other Papa. 
 
 Well, at last we did get elephant spoor. The first we 
 found was two days old, but it proved the elephants were in the 
 locality. Old Papa was quite moved with the sight, it was touch- 
 ing to see him. Holding up his hand toward the sky he prayed, 
 " Ngai (God), give us elephants," looking so earnest the while 
 one could not but sympathise with his feelings, even if I had 
 not been myself equally anxious for success. A little farther on 
 the old man was deeply affected by coming upon some drop- 
 pings, taking one of the dry loaves of vegetable fibre fondly in 
 his hands and breaking it open to see whether still moist inside, 
 so as to judge its age. The elephant is clearly the acme of the 
 Ndorobo's ideas of happiness. He would wish for unlimited 
 elephants, just as you or I might for p^ 10,000 a year. 
 Elephant's fat, in particular, seems to be the summit of their 
 desires. " Oh ! if I could but feed on elephant's fat," said my 
 old friend, " my wife would not know me when I went back, so 
 sleek and plump should I become." 
 
 Where we first found this spoor was near a small spring 
 at which we had slept, at the base of a rocky koppie. Here 
 there was a deserted Ndorobo camp, where Papa's clan had 
 been about a month before. He showed me which had been 
 his hut. The huts were mere gipsy shelters. There was a 
 good-sized collection of them here. They did not seem to 
 have had much success in hunting, judging by the bones, 
 which were but few, about ; among them were those of a 
 giraffe. Several times in this country we came upon little 
 circular low screens of branches, close to what were, when 
 there was rain, small " pools in the parched ground " ; in these, 
 Papa told me, the Ndorobo hunters watched by night for 
 game.^ 
 
 We were now taken on to a sandy stream bed, where our 
 
 ^ Farther north I saw nothing of this kind. Different clans, I found afterwards, 
 have different methods of killing game.
 
 i6 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 guide said the elephants were in the habit of drinking, and in 
 the neighbourhood of which he felt confident they then were. 
 We kept silence on the march on this day. Except for an 
 odd Waller's gazelle or two here and there, and occasionally 
 a little giraffe spoor, the country now seemed gameless. We 
 at length entered the dry bed of the watercourse, and after 
 following it up for some distance came, to Papa's intense 
 excitement, to where elephants (a 'i&w only) had dug in the 
 sand for water the night before. We camped not far off to 
 leeward and kept perfectly quiet, after sunset putting our fires 
 out and neither speaking nor stirring. It was hardly dark 
 when we heard the elephants farther up stream, fortunately to 
 windward. They were evidently drinking. 
 
 I had, of course, great hopes of success now ; and next 
 morning was ready, as soon as it was light enough, to follow 
 the spoor. In this, however, poor old Papa failed, much to my 
 astonishment. I had been told by Von Hohnel that Ndorobos 
 were not good at spooring ; but could hardly believe but that he 
 must have been mistaken. However, mine could not keep it in 
 hard dry ground ; and after casting about all morning he was 
 at length forced to confess that he was not able to spoor with 
 certainty except after rain. The poor old fellow was so down- 
 hearted, being much more disappointed than I myself, that I 
 could not be put out with him, although he had led me all 
 this dance and wasted so much of my time for nothing. At 
 that time neither I nor my gun-bearers had had much ex- 
 perience at spooring elephants, the ground was very hard with 
 no long grass, and, our guide having failed us, I thought it 
 was useless now thinking more of elephants this time ; so 
 next morning we marched back in the direction we had come 
 from. How I wished for a couple of good South African 
 natives to spoor for me ! I have never had bushmen with 
 me, but some of the Tongas and Shanganes living in the 
 game districts of South- Eastern Africa are good enough for 
 me. Had I been able to follow these elephants in such easy
 
 I FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 17 
 
 bush to hunt in I might have had a splendid chance at 
 them. 
 
 We took a more direct route returning, and the first 
 day slept at the most easterly of the head streams of the 
 Mackenzie ; my intention being to go on to the second next 
 day and camp there for a few days to shoot meat to carry 
 back partially dried to the " boma." On our way the first 
 day, when within about a couple of hours' march of the 
 stream, we passed through a beautiful open glade with short 
 green grass. Here I had shot a couple of Grant's gazelle 
 on our way out, and seen zebra, oryx, and ostriches ; so I 
 expected to find game, and hoped to shoot something for the 
 men if not for myself, as I had been unable to get a shot at 
 a rhino I had seen during the morning. 
 
 As soon as we emerged from the bush we saw zebra ahead, 
 so I made the men sit down while I went after them alone. I 
 soon saw that they were not the common kind, by their wide 
 ears, narrow stripes and much larger size, and became interested ; 
 for any animal new to me always delights me. But while I was 
 stalking those ahead of me, another lot I had not seen trotted 
 out of the bush to my right and ran past me. But halting for 
 a moment to look at the (to them) strange creature, they gave 
 me a good chance, and one received a bullet, which I saw at 
 once by the way he galloped off would be fatal ; and following 
 to where he had disappeared I found him lying down as if 
 alive, but in reality dead. I might have shot a second, but 
 one was enough for our present needs. A beautiful creature 
 he was ; far handsomer than Burchell's and its allies as well as 
 much bigger. This was my first acquaintance with Grevy's 
 magnificent zebra. I skinned his head for a trophy. I 
 noticed too that the cry of this zebra (as I shall have 
 occasion to notice more particularly later on) was quite 
 different from the bark of all the small kinds (which are 
 merely local varieties of Burchell's), being a very hoarse kind 
 of grunt varied by something approaching to a whistle. This 
 
 C
 
 i8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 is about the limit of the species ; there are none south of the 
 Tana nor farther up the river on this side. 
 
 The men (I had about a dozen with me) soon piled all the 
 meat on to the loads they were already carrying, and we went 
 on to the stream. This one, just at the part where we struck 
 it, flows through lovely open meadows of soft green grass with 
 only scattered trees. The formation here is limestone, generally 
 close to the surface, and where it is so the grass grows short 
 and soft ; and there having been plenty of rain that season it 
 was then beautifully green. As we came out of the bush to 
 the edge of the open a herd of oryx were standing in the 
 meadow ; and as I had no meat for myself (besides which I 
 wanted oryx heads) I shot one, which proved a nice fat heifer. 
 We camped close by on the stream, within a hundred yards or 
 so of the antelope. A delightful and most picturesque spot it 
 was, with the delicious brook of clear, cold water — so especially 
 precious in Equatorial Africa — rushing past. My tent was 
 pitched under a spreading tree on its banks and but little 
 above its surface, for it had hardly any bed and the gently 
 sloping lawn came right down to the water. The men caught 
 quantities of fish, and one kind — a sort of small perch — proved 
 a very sweet little fellow when fried fresh out of the water. 
 On some of these streams grows a plant which I take to be a 
 kind of lily, of which the root when thoroughly boiled is a 
 very good vegetable and a welcome addition to one's menu in 
 the bush. 
 
 Next morning we started to move on to the next stream, 
 where I knew there was abundance of game ; and as the 
 " boma " at Laiju could from there be reached in one good 
 day, it would be a suitable locality in which to shoot meat for 
 the purpose of being carried in. But on the way, w^hile it was 
 yet early, as we were traversing the comparatively open bush 
 that covers most of this particular part (though in places are 
 dense thickets of considerable extent) of the nearly level 
 country, we came suddenly in sight of a rhinoceros standing a
 
 I FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 19 
 
 short way off. Being bent on " biltong " for exchanging with 
 the natives for meal, etc., I thought it a pity to lose this 
 chance ; so I exchanged my single Metford, which it was then 
 my custom always to carry myself, for the double .577 ^vith 
 my gunbearer behind me and ran up to a little bush quite 
 near the rhino. 
 
 Although very bad -sighted, these animals often seem 
 to get some inkling of one's proximity even when the wind 
 is right, either from the tick birds which generally accompany 
 them or, in their absence, by some other means — perhaps 
 hearing. This one knew I was there and began to shift 
 about uneasily ; but as soon as I got up to the bush which 
 screened my approach I took the first chance he gave me 
 of a side shot and before he had made up his mind to 
 decamp. He immediately executed what I call the rhino's 
 death-waltz — a performance they very commonly go through 
 on getting a fatal shot. It is a curious habit, this dying dance, 
 and consists in spinning round and round like a top in one 
 place with a rocking-horse motion before starting off at a 
 gallop, which generally is only a short one, to be arrested after 
 a hundred yards or so by death. I imagine the cause of this 
 strange evolution is the animal's endeavour to find out the 
 cause of the sudden wound it has received — much on the same 
 principle as a dog chases his tail when anything irritates that 
 organ. Mine passed close to me after his dance, but I felt 
 so sure he was done that I refrained from giving him the 
 second barrel. 
 
 On another occasion, however, I lost a rhino through 
 placing faith in the " waltz " being a sign of immediately 
 impending death. I had given him a shot in about the right 
 place ; but as he was somewhat inclined diagonally towards 
 me, the bullet must have gone too far back. He waltzed 
 round several times with only an ant-heap, about as tall as a 
 man and not much broader, between me and him, he being on 
 one side of it while I dodged him, as his dance sometimes
 
 20 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 brought him half round it, on the other. On that occasion, 
 however, my rhino galloped so far that I lost him through not 
 putting in the second barrel as he passed. 
 
 Well, my victim of this morning (to return to him) galloped 
 off and I followed him with confidence. But no sooner had I 
 started in pursuit than I saw him — as I supposed — standing a 
 couple of hundred yards on. I made towards this one ; but 
 on the way passed my rhino already dead. Getting quite close 
 up behind another small bush I shot this second one in the 
 point of the shoulder, breaking it, though I did not feel certain 
 at the time that the bullet had penetrated to his vitals. He 
 plunged about, and on my tiny dog " Frolic " running in and 
 barking, charged sav^agely at her, ploughing up the ground and 
 carrying some of the soil between his horns. The charge 
 brought him towards me, so I gave him my second barrel in 
 front of the shoulder ; and after trying to stand on his head, 
 squealing like a gigantic pig, — as he is in appearance too, — he 
 subsided into a lying position on his stomach, and though his 
 ears flapped and his little eyes blinked still, was dead. It 
 turned out afterwards that the second was superfluous, as both 
 bullets had gone through his heart. 
 
 Thus we had two rhinos dead, only about a hundred yards 
 apart. There had been rain the night before, and pools of 
 water stood in depressions in patches of bare red ground such 
 as occur here and there in this bush ; so we camped by one of 
 these which we found a short way off, for the convenience of 
 cutting up and carrying the meat. 
 
 We remained here two days, the men cutting up and hang- 
 ing the meat in festoons. As they had as much as they could 
 deal with I did not attempt to shoot anything more there, 
 though there were giraffe as well as other game about. Waller's 
 gazelle are particularly fond of bush of this character, where there 
 are these bare patches of hard red ground. I made the acquaint- 
 ance of this queer-looking gazelle for the first time now, with 
 its extraordinarily long neck giving it the appearance of a little
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 girafife. Among the flocks of vultures that congregated 
 around were a few marabou storks, reminding me forcibly of 
 the old days when I used to shoot on the Sabi and Crocodile 
 rivers in South-Eastern Africa, while game yet teemed there, 
 where there were always two or three of these quaint birds about 
 whenever anything was killed (" elephant openers," as the native 
 name for them in that country may be freely translated). One 
 I shot here had the exquisite little white fluffy feathers under 
 the tail in perfect order. 
 
 The day we moved our camp on to the stream — the pool 
 being nearly dried up — I did not want to shoot anything except 
 a Grant's gazelle, to provide some fresh meat for myself, as the 
 men were busy carrying down the bundles of still heavy rhino 
 biltong ; but I went out into a great open plain that extended 
 for a considerable distance in the direction of Laiju to look out 
 for messengers I had sent back to the boma, lest they should 
 not find our new camp. I sat down here under a tree and 
 amused myself by looking through my glasses in all directions 
 at the game visible. I could see large herds of zebra in many 
 parts, also numbers of Grant's gazelle ; a couple of giraffes were 
 visible one way, and in the distance some ostriches. By and 
 by, while we were skinning a gazelle 1 had shot, a family party 
 of three rhinoceroses came into view not far off. 
 
 On our way back to camp, as they were in the direction 
 we wanted to go, I went straight towards them out of curiosit}', 
 to see what they would do. My experience of these creatures 
 has not been that they often charge viciously, though when a long 
 caravan is passing and they wish to get through they can hardly 
 avoid going for some one, but of course they do undoubtedly 
 sometimes attack their enemies. I have always believed a cow 
 with a calf to be more dangerous than any other — as is, of course, 
 the case with other animals (it was one such, I believe, that hurt 
 Lieutenant Von Hohnel) — and I was anxious to sec how this one 
 would behave, though as I had no wish to shoot any that day it 
 was perhaps a foolish thing to do. The cow was leading, followed
 
 22 ELEPHANT-HUXTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 by her calf, the bull being some distance behind ; and when 
 about one hundred yards from her I stood and examined her 
 and her mate's horns through my glass, but decided they were 
 not worth coveting. When we got within about fifty yards, she 
 started straight for us at a sharp trot. I waited until she had 
 come on to within about half the distance, and then, as she 
 still made dead for me, who was in front, I confess I did not 
 care to await passively the further progress of the experiment, 
 so gave her a bullet in the face, which turned her off at a 
 gallop. I was really sorry to have to hurt her, but as the 
 ground was perfectly open, with not a stick to dodge behind if 
 she had run amuck among us, she might have got foul of 
 some one (we were four) and done damage. I don't know 
 whether this was a bond-fide charge or not ; if I had waited 
 longer she might have turned off of her own accord when she 
 was satisfied what we really were, but I disliked so close an 
 inspection. 
 
 Another day I came back to this plain to try to get a shot 
 at the ostriches. I failed to get near them, but, while trying, 
 a giraffe came towards me — apparently not seeing me or 
 mistaking me for something harmless ; so I sat still till it had 
 walked a little past, some i 50 yards off, so that the solid bullet 
 I sent into its ribs from my little Gibbs .450 might travel 
 forward. It galloped violentl}- for about 200 yards, and then, 
 after staggering a little, plunged head first, its hind-quarters 
 curiously standing up for a second or two after its neck was 
 on the ground. It is not often one has the chance of seeing 
 a giraffe fall plainly, as they are generally shot among bush. 
 More often they, like most animals, fall backwards when 
 mortally wounded. 
 
 I left my men cutting up the giraffe, and carrying my two 
 guns myself, like Robinson Crusoe (\ can't say I admire his 
 plan), I directed m)- steps towards camp, old Papa with a load 
 of meat for himself alone following me. But before arriving 
 at the stream I saw a herd of oryx away to the right, grazing
 
 I FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 23 
 
 among some clumpy bushes on slightly rising ground. 1 
 wanted some oryx heads, and the meat would be useful too — 
 for I had sent back to Laiju for porters to carry in the biltong, 
 of which we could hardly have too much ; so I determined to 
 go after them, especially as the ground was rather favourable 
 for getting near. 
 
 Papa had gone on ahead towards camp, and was so 
 taken up with his burden and absorbed in the happy thoughts 
 it evoked that I could not attract his attention ; so I put 
 my second rifle and sundry other impedimenta I had taken 
 from my gun-bearer, such as glasses, etc., down — or, rather, 
 hung them on a tree — and proceeded to stalk the herd. 
 Taking advantage of the cover afforded by the bushy shrubs, 
 and keeping my eyes fixed on such of the grazing herd as 
 were from time to time visible between as I crept nearer — 
 lying low now and again till the position of any member that 
 seemed likely to discover me became favourable again — I got 
 at last within shot. Then wriggling myself into a sitting 
 position under cover of a bush, I edged out cautiously a little 
 to one side, and waited till a good chance should be offered by 
 the antelopes moving slowly about as they grazed — for I had 
 succeeded so well that they were absolutely unconscious of my 
 presence. It was not long before a favourable opportunity 
 presented itself, of which I took advantage, getting in another 
 satisfactory shot at a second immediately after, before the herd 
 took to flight, and I felt certain that each had gone well home. 
 Nor was I disappointed, for on going to see when the rest had 
 decamped I found both lying dead not very far apart, in the 
 track of the retreating herd. 
 
 I have for years adopted the device of hanging my 
 handkerchief on a bush or stick beside the carcase of an 
 animal I am obliged to leave by itself while men are 
 called to skin and carry it to camp, to keep the vultures 
 off, and have always found this plan effectual. I generally 
 have two or three white cotton cloths for the purpose in a
 
 24 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 satchel my gun-bearer carries, but I had not any with me 
 now, and as my handkerchief would only serve for one of the 
 oryx I took off my vest of cotton web — all I wear under my 
 little loose holland jumper — and hung it up to mount guard 
 over the other. Papa had come on hearing the shots, and 
 helped me to drag each under the shade of the nearest bush, 
 the ensign being hung from it over the buck. Various 
 modifications of this may be adopted as circumstances render 
 convenient. Thus, a stick may be stuck into the ground beside 
 a large animal which cannot be moved, or even into the bullet 
 wound ; or if none is obtainable, the horns or leg of the beast 
 itself may be made to serve the purpose, as is shown in the 
 accompanying illustration (copied from a photograph of mine) 
 of a Grant's gazelle, so disposed (the hind-foot wedged between 
 the horns and the fore-leg round behind them) as to cause the 
 horns to stick upright, conveniently for attaching the hand- 
 kerchief. I took this photo specially for the benefit of any one 
 who may not have hit upon the plan for himself. In the 
 meantime I had skinned the heads, and we started for the 
 camp ; and though it was not far, m}' wrist ached when I got 
 there with one in my hand which I had to carry in addition 
 to my rifles, etc., for old Papa could only manage one. The 
 sly old fellow always pretended to be no good at carrying a 
 load, unless it was something he specially wanted himself and 
 could get no one to bring along for him ; but I fancy it was 
 partly put on, lest we should expect him to carry something 
 ah\'ays. 
 
 I wanted to see something shot with a bow and arrow, as 
 I had never yet witnessed such sport, and often tried to persuade 
 my old friend to give me an exhibition of his skill ; but I 
 could never prevail upon him to shoot at anything, though once 
 or twice opportunities for close shots at antelopes presented 
 themselves. My own opinion is that he knew he couldn't hit 
 anything, and I doubt if many of the Ndorobos are much good 
 with that weapon. The only one I have ever seen shoot at
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 25 
 
 any unvvounded animal missed clean a small buck standing 
 still at only a few yards range. But there are some, no doubt, 
 who do kill game occasionally by these means (the Wakamba 
 certainly do), though I do not believe they are good shots 
 unless at very close quarters. One thing I have always 
 wondered at with regard to these people is that the children 
 do not seem to practise for amusement — as Kafir boys do the 
 
 Mode of Protecting Game from Vultures. 
 
 Grant's Gazelle (Gazelia ^i-anti). (From a Photograph by the .Vuthor.) 
 
 use of the assegai by throwing pointed sticks at a pumpkin 
 rolled down a hill — nor do they ever shoot at birds. It is a 
 curious thing, too, that an Ndorobo would rather starve than 
 eat a bird : he looks on a guinea-fowl even with aversion, the 
 consequence being that the boys do not attempt to snare birds 
 as other young natives are so fond of doing ; indeed their only 
 idea of occupation .seems to be to join in the everlasting hunt 
 for honey.
 
 26 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 I did not hunt much more here as we had already a large 
 quantity of meat drying, and I wanted to get back to Laiju 
 and lay my plans for a trip in another direction in quest of 
 elephants. I shot one or two oryx, being anxious to get a 
 finer specimen of this handsome, long-horned antelope, and a 
 few of the smaller kinds. One oryx which I had hit rather 
 low ran some distance, and when we finally came up with him 
 after following the spoor showed fight, so that though already 
 done it was necessary to use another cartridge to finish him. 
 It is, of course, well known that it is very dangerous to lay hold 
 of a wounded oryx or go within reach of its sharp, sweeping 
 horns, and I have before experienced its dexterity with these 
 formidable weapons ; but I do not remember to have noticed 
 its angry voice under such circumstances : this one fairly 
 growled when we went near it. 
 
 The neighbourhood of which I have been writing is quite 
 an ideal game country, and very pleasant to camp and to shoot 
 in. The drawback is the difficulty of getting there ; otherwise 
 a very delightful time might be spent by a small party in the 
 district. My camp there was by a little lakelet formed by the 
 stream — a charming spot — my tent pitched under a spreading 
 tree on the very water's edge. One day I shot a huge barber 
 (as they are called in South Africa) in this pool with my 
 rook rifle. I was sitting having my meal under the shade 
 of the tree outside the tent door, and it came feeling about 
 after scraps I threw in on the surface of the water close to the 
 bank above which I sat, and I put the little bullet right through 
 the centre of its nose — or rather where the nose ought to be in 
 its wide ugly head — killing it instantly, to the delight of my 
 Swahili retainers (to whom fish never comes amiss). 
 
 The varieties of game to be found in this district, not of 
 course all in precisely the same locality, but in the neighbourhood 
 round about, are : — rhinoceros, giraffe, oryx, waterbuck, lesser 
 koodoo. Grant's gazelle, Waller's gazelle, impala, a few Coke's 
 hartebeeste and the tiny " paa " (Kirkii) ; zebra of two kinds,
 
 FIRST EXPEDITION FROM MOMBASA 
 
 ostriches, lions and rarely warthogs. Leopards may sometimes 
 be heard at night, and hyenas are, of course, numerous, though 
 these I regard as vermin. Guinea-fowl, francoHns, etc., are 
 plentiful in places. There are also plenty of hippos in the Tana 
 and the lower reaches of its larger tributaries. Impala (or pallah, 
 as it is sometimes written) are curiously scarce, even in parts that 
 seem thoroughly favourable to them ; it seems strange why, 
 seeing that the species is present, they should be so few here. In 
 South-Eastern Africa they used to fairly teem in their favourite 
 resorts — a thousand in a troop being sometimes no exaggeration, 
 probably often an underestimate — whereas nowhere in Equa- 
 torial Africa have I seen anything approaching to such numbers. 
 Coke's hartebeeste is here on the very hmit of its range. I 
 saw a few near Laiju and between there and the Tana, but none 
 farther east, though there are more (as I afterwards found) in 
 the opposite direction (that is westwards, between the Jambeni 
 hills and the river) — northward it is entirely absent. 
 
 It will thus be seen that the main stream of the Mackenzie 
 River (though in itself little more than a good-sized brook in its 
 upper course) may be taken as the line of demarcation limiting 
 the ranges of both Coke's hartebeeste and Grevy's zebra, though 
 in opposite directions, at this point, which is continued on the 
 one hand by the Jambeni range to Kenia and on the other by 
 the Tana eastwards. The giraffe here is the northern species : 
 of its peculiarities and range I shall have more to say later on. 
 Buffaloes are almost extinct since the great cattle plague^ of 
 some years before, especially in this region ; the occasional 
 spoor of an odd one or two is all that is ever seen of them 
 now. Elands (which also suffered) may still be met with, 
 though a little farther on. 
 
 On the arrival of the porters I had sent back for, the store 
 of biltong — by this time fairly dry — was lashed up into long 
 
 ' This iiuirrain swept through East Cential Africa in the year 1891. It did not — as 
 under the name of rinderpest it is said to have done or to be doing now — destroy other 
 game than the kinds specified, at all events to any appreciable extent.
 
 28 ELEPHANT-HUNThXG IN EAST AFRICA chai-. i 
 
 bundles and we returned to the " boma," reaching there on the 
 morning of 14th April. 
 
 The news that awaited me was far from cheering. Although 
 before I left many of my donkeys were already dead, I had 
 hoped that when those that had suffered most from " fly " 
 in passing through the Tana valley had succumbed, the re- 
 mainder would keep healthy ; for I did not then know that 
 Laiju was one of the most deadly places in Africa for domestic 
 animals, not excepting the generally hardy ass. But on my 
 return now I found that all were either dead, dying, or sick. 
 This was a great blow, as I knew that without these useful 
 pack animals it would be impossible to penetrate far into the 
 uninhabited country stretching northward from the Jambeni 
 range towards Lake Rudolph ; and though I had been en- 
 couraged by many promises to hope that we might obtain 
 some from the Embe natives, not one had yet been offered for 
 sale. However, I determined at all events to explore as much 
 of the country as circumstances would allow of my reaching 
 in directions where I had reason to believe elephants were 
 numerous. Various matters, with which it is not necessary to 
 trouble the reader in detail, caused another fortnight to slip by 
 unprofitably^I paid a short experimental visit to the Embe 
 district, on the top of the range ; and the heavy rains at this 
 season being unfavourable to travelling, entailed further delay 
 — but at length I was ready to start for another attempt.
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 ON THE JAMBENI RANGE 
 
 Over Embe hills to Mthara — Description of country — Tlie natives : their appearance 
 and habits — Their mode of killing elephants — Fruitless search for game — Sight 
 bush buck — Tempting chance of a rliino — Critical moment — Trumpetings heard 
 — An obstinate guide — First encounter with elephants — Reputation as hunter 
 at stake — A longed-for chance — My " cripple-stopper " — Three elephants shot — 
 Change of camp — Friendly natives — Shoot an impala — Presents from natives — 
 Holding a " shauri " — The request for tribute — " Blood-brotherhood " — An un- 
 pleasant ordeal — My elder brother " Ndaminuki " — Track elephant spoor — 
 Native curiosity — Sight another herd — Their favourite cover — A satisfactory 
 shot — A good day's work — Ivory trading a tedious process — Scarcity of impala 
 — Kenia — A reason for making "shauri" — Visit native kraals. 
 
 On 30th April 1894 about 6 a.m. I started from my " boma " 
 at Laiju with about twenty men, leaving the remainder of my 
 caravan of fifty all told with the goods, prepared for a raid of 
 some length on the elephants which I had been informed were 
 on the other (northern) side of the Jambeni range. The guides, 
 who had solemnly promised to come the day before, had not 
 turned up, according to the usual custom, as it seems, of these 
 natives to invariably break their word. Having become used 
 to this, I was determined not to let their failure to keep their 
 promise interfere with my arrangements, feeling sure that I 
 could pick up others on the way. On passing the kraal of my 
 " blood-brother " I looked in for a chat ; and he assured me 
 that everything was peaceful for us ahead, which was satisfactory, 
 as the Embe tribe, through whose country we had to pass, are 
 a treacherous lot. We had a thunder-shower on our way after
 
 30 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 getting up among the hills, making it very unpleasant and 
 soaking some of my things. The path was perfectly awful ; 
 greasy to a degree ; overhung with dripping jungle, weighed 
 down with the wet ; and, being steep and sidelong, made it 
 very hard work for the porters. In consequence of the rain, 
 and partly also to get a guide, we camped early at the first 
 suitable place ; a nice open spot near a small wood with water 
 not far off. It is important in these hills to camp, if possible, 
 where firewood can be procured (which is not the case every- 
 where), as the climate is cool and damp and the nights very 
 cold and trying to the men without good fires, often bringing 
 on serious illnesses. On this occasion I put down in my diary 
 " cold and beastly." The natives here are great thieves, so 
 that it is necessary to keep a careful watch over everything, 
 and a good open space is desirable as camping ground for 
 safety. I secured a new guide and one of those who had 
 disappointed me turned up. 
 
 The next morning was chilly, misty, and drizzling, and the 
 going abominably bad, but we started early in spite of it all. 
 By and by, though, the sun came out and made things more 
 cheerful and let us see about us. This must be a grand climate 
 and, I should think, perfectly healthy. The early mornings are 
 very cold, but lovely after the sun gets up ; the air crisp and 
 as clear as crystal. I walked to the top of a hill ahead and was 
 abundantly rewarded by a wonderfully extended view of the 
 country beyond for an immense distance right up to a range 
 I thought must overlook Baringo, as well as the Lorogis and 
 other mountains, with a peep of the Gwaso Nyiro River shining 
 between. Of Kenia (or Kilimara, as it is more correctly called) 
 — quite near, to the south-west by west — only the immensely 
 wide base and the extreme apex of precipitous black rock flecked 
 with snow were visible, all its snowfields being covered with 
 banks of cloud, below which appeared extensive forests on the 
 lower slopes, except those on the northern side, which are quite 
 bare. The general aspect of the country to the northward
 
 ON THE JAMBENI RANGE 
 
 thus spread out in panorama before me, seemed, from this 
 bird's-eye view, to be more or less open and fairly level, though 
 hills and ranges were also to be seen. Its yellow colour, denot- 
 ing dryness, contrasted strongly with the verdant hills we were 
 on ; but this almost untrodden wilderness, stretching away 
 to the far northern horizon where the tips of hazy peaks, just 
 visible, seemed to beckon one on, had a wonderful fascination 
 for me. I longed to pry into its mysteries. What especially 
 attracted me was the knowledge that, save for a few scattered 
 Ndorobos, it was uninhabited — an immense sanctuary still held 
 possession of, as in primeval ages, by the (to me) more inter- 
 esting denizens of the animal world. 
 
 Embe is a beautiful and fertile country, though very broken. 
 Many kraals are dotted about and there is a good deal of 
 cultivation, particularly banana groves. On the steeper slopes 
 there are woods with some fine trees in which plantain eaters 
 call, while grotesque great hornbills sail across from cover to 
 cover, alternately flapping and gliding with peculiar switchback 
 flight, uttering their loud peevish plaint, the curiously character- 
 istic cries of both harmonising exquisitely with the spirit of 
 their surroundings like appropriate music — so sympathetic a 
 composer is nature. But most of the hillsides are covered 
 with a sort of jungle of what I should describe as giant weeds, 
 where probably the timber has been cleared, the open valleys 
 between being carpeted with the most lovely short, thick, 
 springy turf, full of clover, than which nothing could be more 
 delightfully green and soft and sweet looking. It is real sward 
 from which you may cut a genuine tough sod — none of your 
 tufts of grass with bare spaces between, — in fact more like an 
 ideal English pasture than African veldt. Here the natives 
 graze their few cattle (little humped beasts) and donkeys, and 
 their more numerous goats and sheep : all very small but sleek 
 and fat. The area of grass and jungle respectively depends 
 upon the amount of stock : when cattle are numerous the pas- 
 ture extends and the jungle is gradually conquered, but when
 
 32 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 (as has of late years been the case through the great cattle 
 plague of a few years ago) the live stock decreases, the jungle 
 again encroaches upon these delightful lawns. The soil is 
 volcanic ; and owing to the loose way the lava rocks lie 
 jumbled together, most of the water runs below the surface, to 
 break out near the base of the mountains into the streams 
 
 A View of Embe. 
 
 (From a Photograph by Dr. Koi.r..) 
 
 forming the head waters of the branch of the Tana which 
 Chanler and Von Hohnel had named the Mackenzie River. 
 
 The contrast between the country and its inhabitants is great 
 and not in favour of the latter, whether in appearance, habits, 
 or character. They are inexpressibly dirty and smell strongly 
 of castor-oil — to our notions not the choicest of perfumes. In 
 common with those of Laiju and other adjacent districts, they 
 are much addicted to a habit of chewing the leaves of a certain 
 shrub, indigenous to the country, but which they also cultivate
 
 II ON THE JAMBENI RANGE 33 
 
 for convenience. Some of the old men are never without their 
 mouths full of this green stuff. They carry a quantity of the 
 tender shoots in a dirty old skin satchel slung from their 
 shoulders, together with bits of tobacco, bananas, and other 
 treasures, and every now and then strip the bark and leaves 
 from several of these soft twigs and, throwing away the woody 
 interior, cram the handful into their capacious mouths. This 
 inelegant custom with its somewhat disgusting evidences about 
 the lips does not add to the enjoyment of a long " shauri " with 
 several such old gentlemen ; at least it did not to mine, though 
 it was apparently indispensable to theirs. These natives are 
 very numerous and there is no game of any kind. 
 
 After winding about among the hills and crossing several little 
 purling brooks which rise near the highest peak — the actual 
 Njambeni — we bore to the west, keeping along the edge of the 
 high land, and then gradually descended by a zigzag course 
 towards the low country on the northern side of the range, 
 passing on the way the kraals of some natives who had " eaten 
 blood " with Chanler (that is, entered into the bonds of " blood 
 brotherhood "). These people were very friendly and seemed 
 really pleased to meet a white man. They took me down the 
 slopes and helped me to find a nice place to camp on the 
 banks of a stream and just above open level country dotted 
 with thorn trees. There is a patch of bush here which the 
 elephants sometimes haunt and from where they make raids at 
 night on the natives' crops. Some had lately been there, but 
 the owners of the shambas (cultivated ground) had managed to 
 drive them out though they had not succeeded in killing any. 
 They are no hunters, and the only way they ever kill elephants 
 is by setting traps consisting of javelins (poisoned) in heavy 
 shafts suspended over their paths, with a cord to release the 
 impending harpoon stretched across, so that when a large 
 animal passes along it falls on its head or back after the 
 manner of a school " booby trap." 
 
 I walked down into the flats to look for game in the after- 
 
 D
 
 34 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 noon and got a shot at a rhino, half facing me, through a bush ; 
 but he made off, and though I followed the blood spoor a long 
 way I had to give it up and return empty-handed, having seen 
 no other game. I have found the truth of Selous' rule, that 
 when once a wounded rhino goes any considerable distance the 
 chance of ever getting him is very small. I only remember to 
 have once bagged one under such circumstances. In that 
 instance the rhino was shot through the shoulder, but the bone 
 did not break till it had galloped a mile or more, and I came 
 upon him again accidentally, unable to go farther. 
 
 I was able to dry my things here, and made ready for an 
 early start the next day in the direction of Mthara ^ (the next 
 district to the westward, along the foot of the range) to look 
 for elephant spoor. There was thunder and rain again in the 
 night. The next morning I made an early start, leaving my 
 little caravan encamped and taking five men besides my gun- 
 bearer and a guide with me. On the way down to the flats 
 I saw two pairs of bush buck, and had a good look at one, 
 a fine handsome male, very red in colour. I did not interfere 
 with them, but was afterwards rather sorry I had not shot 
 this one as a specimen of the bush bucks of this part of 
 Africa. They are very far from common, and I think I only 
 saw one other (a female) on the whole trip. The country here, 
 at the northern base of the range, is very different from that 
 on the other side, no doubt owing to less rain falling. The 
 grass is comparatively short, it is much healthier for stock, 
 and more open and easier and pleasanter to get about in. 
 
 After walking for some distance through open grassy flats, 
 sprinkled with thorn trees and studded here and there with 
 koppies, many of which were clearly small craters, keeping 
 parallel with the range, I saw a pair of rhino ahead, in very 
 
 ^ This name has been written Msara by German travellers, who cannot pronounce the 
 "th," but the natives themselves sound those letters quite distinctly, just as we do in 
 the words "that," "there," etc. In the same way the name of the river is really 
 Thana, not Tana.
 
 II ON THE JAMBENI RANGE 35 
 
 open ground, standing close to a rather bushy Httle low tree. 
 As I wanted meat for my men I went after them. The wind 
 being right I got the tree between me and them and ap- 
 proached. But I could see through the tree that they were 
 disturbed (probably by the tick birds which are nearly always 
 with rhinos and give them warning of approaching danger), so 
 scuttled up to a tiny little bush, only about three feet high, grow- 
 ing some thirty or forty yards from where they stood, and sat 
 down, meaning to wait till one should show itself from behind 
 the tree and be ready for a steady shot. But just as I did 
 so one came half out on one side, offering a perfect side-shot. 
 Though I could see that it was but a smallish one and thought 
 from what I could make out through the tree that the other 
 was much larger, as I knew they would be off immediately 
 I thought it a pity to lose so tempting a chance, so gave 
 her (it was a female) a bullet from my .577 just in the right 
 spot behind the shoulder. Instantly the male came out 
 straight for me. I had no time for a careful aim ; he was 
 almost on me before I fired as it was, and sitting on the 
 ground is not the most desirable position in which to receive 
 the charge of a rhinoceros. He was not more than six paces 
 from me when he turned off and bespattered me and my 
 gun with spots of mud from the wet ground. So sudden 
 was it all that I could not say whether it was the second 
 before my shot that he lowered his nose (as for a charge) or 
 the second after (as it might be stumbling to the shock of 
 the bullet) ; but I know he did so just before swerving off. 
 He then galloped away, passing his dead mate (for she was 
 already down not more than fifty yards from where she had 
 stood) on his way. I did not follow him, but sent two men 
 back to camp to call more to carry in the meat, leaving one 
 at the carcase, and went on with the other two, together with 
 my gun-bearer and the native. 
 
 We crossed a small stream where was a reedy swamp 
 into which led the spoor of a single buffalo — the first I
 
 36 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 had seen this trip — and following a big elephant path, 
 along which a large herd had passed a few days ago, 
 turned up between some low foot-hills (still skirting the 
 range) and down into a flat valley full of curious, straight, 
 slim mimosas, some with red, others with white stems, 
 giving an odd striped appearance to this part of the bush. 
 Passing through these we found ourselves close to cultivated 
 lands and could see large kraals on the bare hills near. Here 
 I proposed turning back, as I could not believe elephants 
 would be so near natives at mid-day ; moreover, this was the 
 tribe who had fought Chanler's expedition and I did not feel 
 sure how they might treat us should we run among them. 
 But our guide vehemently protested that we were leaving 
 the elephants close by ; and while I considered whether it 
 were possible he could be leading us into a trap or whether 
 we should be wise to go on, we heard elephants trumpeting 
 not far ahead. 
 
 I had been suffering severely all the morning from 
 blistered feet caused by foolishly putting on a pair of 
 new boots. This had also disposed me to give up the search 
 for to-day, as we had seen no fresh spoor ; but of course the 
 sound of elephantine voices at once did away with all other 
 considerations and we pushed on towards a grove of tall 
 mimosas of the kind called " fever trees " in South Africa 
 (so called, I imagine, because they only grow in the low 
 fever-haunted country, generally near water, though their 
 pale, yellowish-green bark gives them a sickly appearance 
 too, matching well with the name). My guide was a very 
 obstinate fellow, refusing to be influenced by any suggestion 
 of mine in any respect ; and now he persisted in it that we 
 must go round to the windward side of the bush where the 
 elephants were. I was, however, determined not to have my 
 chance spoilt in that way, so I left him, since he would not 
 follow us. I found afterwards that he never would go near 
 elephants.
 
 ON THE J AM BEN I RANGE 
 
 We went on to leeward of where we had heard the 
 elephants and got into a tall, leafy undergrowth, though 
 not very dense, and soon came out into a swamp bordered 
 by tall " fever " and other trees with a little open between : 
 a very ideal elephant haunt. We were uncertain now of 
 the exact whereabouts of the elephants, so proceeded very 
 cautiously up wind towards where we supposed them to be ; 
 and before we had got far into the jungle, after leaving the 
 swamp, we made one out. I then took my double .577 and 
 leaving the men, approached stealthily quite close to the one 
 we had first seen, till there was nothing between me and it 
 but a smallish tree (through the fork of which I looked) and 
 a little thin jungle. Great colonies of weaver birds, thronging 
 the bush, made a great din with both voices and wings, with 
 a rather confusing effect. It was a cow ; a big one, though 
 her tusks were not large. I could now make out two or three 
 others (apparently also cows) beyond, and I knew there were 
 pretty certain to be more I could not see ; but there was no 
 possible chance of getting farther without disturbing the 
 nearest, so I determined to shoot her if I could. I should 
 mention that it was now fully four months since I started 
 from the coast on this expedition, the expenses of which were 
 heavy, and these were the first elephants I had come across : 
 so I was not inclined to risk failure through trying to pick 
 and choose. She was, however, facing me, her great ears 
 stretched out or slowly flapping. I could only see her head 
 and my object was to get a temple shot. I waited, I think, 
 not less than a quarter of an hour for her to turn her head. 
 Once I tried to sneak round farther, but she and another 
 next to her started and I slunk back. I suppose an eddy 
 of wind gave them a slight whiff of me, or they may have 
 heard me moving ; probably the latter, as they were not 
 sufficiently alarmed to move when I kept still again. I was 
 not more than ten paces from the one in front of me, I should 
 say, and meditated the advisability of putting my bullet right
 
 38 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 into her eye (which I felt sure I could do), but, being uncertain 
 whether such a shot would be fatal from my position, and 
 feeling that my reputation as a hunter, with both my own 
 men and the natives of the country, would be blasted at the 
 outset should I make a failure of my first chance at elephant, 
 I waited till my arms ached again with holding my heavy gun 
 at the ready. At last, however, she did give me the longed- 
 for chance, and I instantly put a ball between the eye and 
 the ear, dropping her like a stone. The others near, not 
 having winded me and not knowing what was up, moved 
 away only a short distance. Following carefully I came 
 upon two ; the nearest facing me, her trunk up and chest 
 exposed, the cover fortunately allowing me to see it. Know- 
 ing they would be off again I gave her a shot in the chest, 
 and as she turned to run, the second barrel. Following again 
 I saw her down not more than fifty yards on. Going round 
 to her head she gave a slight struggle, so I thought it wise 
 to give her a shot in the back from my " cripple -stopper " 
 (as I call a Martini -Henry one of my men always carries 
 for the purpose, so as to economise my own cartridges). 
 
 Pushing on again I came upon another standing at right 
 angles, which I dropped under a tree with the temple shot, 
 like the first. Ahead a little way again two or three more w^ere 
 soon seen. One, as I approached, came towards me in an 
 aggressive way, having evidently become aware of my presence. 
 I dared not wait, so close was she, so fired for her head, being 
 unable to see her chest, when not more than six yards off. 
 She fell to the shot, but somehow or other sideways on to me. 
 I could see her dimly through the undergrowth between us, 
 and make out for a second the outline of her head as she lay, 
 not on her side but as it were kneeling down. I ought to 
 have given her the second barrel then, knowing she could only 
 be stunned ; but I was a little too slow, and she was up again 
 and off without giving me another chance. She stood and 
 screamed some sixty or seventy yards off, but the cover was
 
 11 ON THE JAMBENI RANGE 39 
 
 so tall I could only see the top of her back and the top of her 
 head. Following once more I was taken off her spoor by two 
 small cows which ran past on my left, at one of which I got 
 a snap shot but failed to kill. I ought not, perhaps, to have 
 fired at these, but the ivory hunter is bound to endeavour to 
 make as much hay as possible when he does get a little sun- 
 shine, and the jungle precluded running or seeing beyond a 
 few yards. However, both these last got off, and the herd 
 seemed to have cleared out. 
 
 It was now well into the afternoon, I was terribly foot- 
 sore, we were far from camp, our guides had disappeared, and 
 we could hear natives shouting. I knew these must be the 
 people who had fought with Chanler, so all things considered 
 decided to return. We went back to the dead elephants to 
 cut off their tails and take a piece of one's trunk and heart 
 (for myself) as well as some fat (first-rate for culinary purposes), 
 and I had a look at their tusks, which there had been no time 
 to do in passing. The ivory was all rather small, even for 
 cow ; still it was not bad for a beginning, though I was sorry 
 to have let off the one that went for me. We took a 
 straighter course back to camp than the way we had come, 
 and had a good elephant path all the way, so got there before 
 sundown. The rhino meat had been carried in lonsf aso. 
 Swahilis have a stupid prejudice against eating elephant meat, 
 and are foolish enough to prefer rhino. Some of my Embe 
 friends of yesterday had come again and said there were more 
 elephants in the neighbourhood. Altogether things looked 
 more hopeful than they had done yet with me on this trip ; 
 the only drawback being those awful sore heels from which I 
 suffered agonies to-day ; for getting footsore just now (for the 
 first time since leaving the coast) was a real calamity. I 
 determined to move camp on to the little stream we had 
 crossed on our way to the elephant bush, so as to be more 
 handily situated to chop out the tusks and go in search of 
 more elephants.
 
 40 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 The next morning, though it was raining, I was up about 
 4 A.M., and by the time it was fairly hght we had packed up 
 and were ready to start. I left my headman and half-a-dozen 
 porters at this camp, to try and trade some ivory. I had 
 brought him chiefly for the purpose of trading a lot of goods 
 I had hampered myself with unwisely, and found both a great 
 nuisance and very little use. I was glad to leave him behind, 
 as I did not like the way he conducted my negotiations with 
 the natives. My guide of yesterday (who had overtaken us 
 on the way back) and another native accompanied us. I went 
 to the spring of the little spruit we had crossed the day before 
 (seeing no game on the way), where was a very pleasant, 
 convenient, and picturesque spot for my camp, under a grand 
 old low-crowned thorn tree with wide-spreading horizontal 
 boughs, which grew on a little rise above the stream. The 
 tree gave shade ; its great limbs were most handy to put 
 things on — one, too, formed a comfortable seat ; it lent itself 
 exactly to the making of a capital boma of suitable size for 
 us by simply having thorny branches packed all round under 
 the drooping extremity of its umbrella-shaped crown ; and 
 altogether the camp was one of the nicest I ever had, the 
 country around being fairly open, and the grass short and at 
 that time green. 
 
 Leaving half my men in camp to build the " boma," I 
 went on with the rest to chop out the tusks of my three 
 elephants of the day before, intending also to go on to look 
 for others. On the way we met some natives from the kraals 
 near : they were most friendly in their greetings, hailing me 
 as a deliverer on account of my shooting the elephants, which 
 destroy their crops, and whose depredations they compare 
 to the Masai raids. This is the district called Mthara, the 
 tribe which fought with Chanler. Their experience of the 
 consequences of attacking the white man seemed to have 
 taught them to respect him, and to have inspired them with 
 a desire to make him their friend ; so they received me with
 
 II ON THE JAMBENI RANGE 41 
 
 open arms. We had a talk with them, and they told us that 
 the elephants were not far off, and went to get information as 
 to their whereabouts to-day from those who watched the crops 
 day and night. Afterwards one of them met us again with 
 the news that there was one large elephant near, and five 
 others not far off. We went on with him, past the swamp of 
 yesterday, and on to a second and larger one. But a number 
 of natives had now come (having, no doubt, got word of the 
 white man's arrival), and were shouting all over the place, and, 
 of course, the elephants had decamped. 
 
 I was again suffering agonies from my feet, and as 
 it was by this time past noon, and the elephants had been 
 disturbed for that day, I decided to go back to camp. On 
 the way back I saw a few impala, one of which I shot. In 
 the evening some of my new friends of Mthara came, bringing 
 me presents of bananas, tobacco, and native beer. We had 
 a satisfactory talk, and I promised to remain in camp the 
 following day to have a " shauri " with their head men and 
 become their " blood brother " if they wished it. This rest 
 would also suit me on account of my chafed feet. I, of course, 
 gave small presents to my visitors. 
 
 Accordingly, the next day I did not go out. A number 
 of the Mthara "elders," as well as many young men, came, 
 bringing small offerings of food. I had a great " shauri " with 
 them, and they seemed very well disposed. Of course they 
 tried at first to get me to stump up something in the shape of 
 " hongo " or tribute, as Swahili traders are in the habit of paying 
 for the privilege of entering each district, though they do not 
 visit this particular part at all, on account of the bad name 
 the natives have ; but I told them distinctly I could not 
 consent to this, as it was not the white man's custom. I said 
 that any presents I might give must be of my own free will ; 
 no demands could I entertain. I wanted to shoot elephants : 
 if they wished to have them shot, I would be glad of their help 
 and guidance. On the other hand, if they did not wish me to
 
 42 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap, ii 
 
 shoot near their gardens, well and good ; there were elephants 
 elsewhere, and natives anxious that I should go and shoot 
 them : nothing would I pay for permission to hunt. They at 
 once gave in, and said they would willingly guide me, and that 
 the whole tribe — old men, young men, women, and children — 
 were most anxious to make me their friend, and they would 
 like to clinch the friendship by making " blood brotherhood " 
 with me. I consented ; and after much parley it was agreed 
 I should wait here the next day and go through the ceremony 
 formally with them. The arrangement suited me, as I was 
 quite unfit to hunt, and knew I should only lay myself up for 
 a much longer time if I attempted to walk again before, at 
 soonest, the day but one after. Altogether — though the 
 delay was tantalising wuth elephants close by, as they were 
 reported to be, and my getting footsore just at the very 
 time when my luck seemed to have taken a favourable turn, 
 after so long a period of patience and disappointment, was 
 truly heart-breaking — things seemed turning out propitiously, 
 and I had great hopes of favourable results in the near 
 future. 
 
 The next day the great ceremony of " eating blood " ^ was 
 performed. During the whole performance I had to sit in a 
 swamp, sandwiched between two very unwashed savages, 
 necessitating a bath and change directly it was over. It is 
 a very unpleasant ordeal, but I went bravely through it, much 
 to the satisfaction of the admiring crowds of savages. I gave 
 small presents to many, and rather larger ones to my two new 
 " brothers " (sons of the principal head men of the tribe), and 
 received numerous calabashes of rather good though thick 
 native beer, etc. These people always remained loyal to the 
 bond, and my elder brother, " Ndaminuki," has been most 
 
 1 I have not thought it necessarj' to describe in detail this rather disgusting rite — it 
 has been done by others — but "eating blood" is literally a true definition of it. The 
 principals have to eat a drop of each other's blood, taken from an incision in the chest, 
 with which a bit of roasted meat (cut from the heart of an animal specially sacrificed with 
 many curious superstitious observances) has been smeared.
 
 NdaminukI (Author's Blood Brother). 
 (I'rom a Photograph by Dr. Kolb.)
 
 ^ 
 
 44 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 useful many times to me and mine, as well as subsequently, 
 at my instigation, to a German traveller, Dr. Kolb. Every- 
 thing went off satisfactorily, and it was arranged that I was to 
 be shown the haunts of the elephants the following morning, a 
 herd of which was said to be still in the bush adjoining the 
 cultivated lands. My feet were still very sore, but I felt that 
 I must walk somehow. 
 
 Having made an early start, then, the next day, some of 
 the natives met us near the cultivation, close to where I had 
 shot the three elephants. Some had been in the crops that 
 night. We followed their spoor through the adjoining patch 
 of forest, in which were the swamps we had seen before, and 
 out into the shorter scrub beyond to the westward. They had 
 gone in the direction of Kenia (which was only a comparatively 
 short way off), evidently feeding. Unfortunately, I and my 
 proceedings were a source of such interest to the inhabitants of 
 the neighbourhood, few of whom had ever seen a white man, 
 that numbers of them had followed us, and we gradually 
 collected quite a gathering. They were a great nuisance, as 
 they have little idea of hunting ; it was difficult to keep them 
 quiet, and altogether they were very much in the way, but I 
 had to put up with them. 
 
 After proceeding a considerable distance through scrub 
 sufficiently open to be easily walked through, on coming 
 near a small stream a single cow elephant was made out 
 standing by it. On our side there was open ground, but 
 across rather dense scrub. I made a circuit to get the 
 wind right and to have cover. Fortunately, the bulk of 
 the native onlookers had made for some rising ground some 
 distance away, whence they could get a view over the scrub, to 
 see if they could discover the whereabouts of the elephants, 
 and the one or two who had kept with me I now left behind. 
 After crossing the stream twice I got close up to the cow, 
 which was standing in the water feeding on trees growing on 
 the bank. She waded down towards me and I dropped her
 
 11 ON THE JAMBENI RANGE 45 
 
 with a temple shot, and, as she stood up again, though 
 apparently about to fall dead, I made sure by shooting her 
 through the heart with the " cripple-stopper," and the stream, 
 in which she lay, literally ran red. Her tusks were about the 
 same as those of the three previous ones. 
 
 No other elephants were in sight, but we could see the 
 natives, who had taken up their position (as above mentioned) 
 on a rise, excitedly beckoning to us, so we went towards 
 them, unfortunately, as it turned out. Before we reached 
 them we saw what they were looking at, namely, a long 
 line of elephants coming straight for the spot where I had 
 just shot the first. There was quite a crowd of natives 
 collected on the rise watching them, quite regardless of the 
 fact that they were directly to windward. I made back 
 as quickly as possible, but, the elephants having already got 
 our wind, I was too late to intercept them, as they were going 
 fast. Had I only known and remained where I was, the whole 
 herd must have passed right by me. They were making 
 straight back for their stronghold, the patch of forest near the 
 " shambas " (cultivation), and we followed their spoor as quickly 
 as possible. It was not till the)' were close to thick cover, 
 though, that we again sighted the tail of the herd. I climbed 
 a tree to get a view of them, and could see two or three 
 standing in rather open ground, one a large cow with tusks 
 that seemed long and much curved. Making for this one, 
 which stood sideways, offering a perfect shot, I was just 
 getting up to it when a wretched native who had been 
 following me rushed right to windward, in spite of my frantic 
 beckonings, in order to get behind a thick bush he had spotted 
 as a safe retreat, with the result, of course, that the elephants 
 got his wind and made off before I could get a shot at the one 
 I had chosen as my victim. Running on, however, I could not 
 resist giving her a stern shot ; and just ahead another stood 
 sideways for a moment, about fifty yards off, apparently to 
 see what was the matter with their rear, which I dropped on
 
 i 
 
 46 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the spot (temple shot). This last had rather nice teeth for 
 " kalasha " (cow ivory). 
 
 After cutting off her tail we again followed the track of 
 the herd, which had now entered their favourite cover. This 
 patch of forest consists of groves of very large " fever " trees 
 and other kinds (some of great size), with an undergrowth of 
 dense leafy jungle, in parts very tall and thick but shorter in 
 others, and with some more or less open spaces. The spoor 
 led through some of the densest, darkest parts ; some places 
 were very bad, so that one could not see above a yard or two 
 and could only get through by struggling, stooping, and even 
 creeping along the track, the bushes closing in after the 
 elephants had passed. I wondered they did not stop there, 
 but felt glad they had not. It was a long time before we got 
 up to any again. They had separated and rushed about the 
 bush in different directions, making the spoor confusing and 
 troublesome to follow sometimes. At last, however, we got 
 sight of some again ; but before I could get a fair chance 
 they started off and I only got a snap shot at one, which, 
 though it staggered, went on ; but just ahead I got another 
 temple shot at a young bull, which I was lucky enough to kill 
 on the spot. As it seemed not quite dead I gave it another 
 bullet in the head, though I think it was unnecessary ; it is 
 better though to make sure if there is the least doubt. 
 
 It was afternoon by this time ; but we followed again as the 
 elephants stuck to the forest (which was not of great extent). 
 They were scattered in small lots of a few together and kept 
 moving about and then standing and listening until disturbed 
 again. At last, when I was thinking of giving it up and we were 
 close to the outside of the jungle, we heard the solemn rumbling 
 made by an elephant's inside ; and just after I caught sight of 
 one's forehead between two large bushy shrubs. I advanced, 
 trying to get a view of the temple, to within a dozen yards or 
 a little more ; but, though I could not see enough of her, she 
 had her eye to the opening and could see me, for she suddenly
 
 A 
 
 ON THE JAMBENI RANGE 
 
 47 
 
 came straight out for me at a run, screaming, her trunk up. 
 There was no time to waste ; so, as her chest was hidden by 
 the low scrub between us, I let her have my right barrel in her 
 head, instantly springing to one side and ducking, with the 
 idea of dodging under the vegetation. But she was down, 
 after getting within six paces (afterwards stepped) of where I 
 stood. Remembering the former one getting off under similar 
 circumstances and knowing she could only be stunned, I was 
 
 " Where to aim." 
 Skull with brain marked black, showing its position with respect to ear, eye, etc. 
 
 on the look-out this time, and as she rose (having slewed round 
 in falling) I gave her my second barrel in the ear, before she 
 was fairly on her feet, knocking her over plump and dead, her 
 legs kicking up in the air as she rolled over while the blood 
 poured out of her ear. This was the most satisfactory shot 1 
 had made ; and, under the circumstances, I felt excusably 
 pleased with myself She had longish curved tusks, crossing 
 at the points (44 lbs. the pair). On examining her I found 
 this was the elephant I had wounded from behind just before 
 the herd entered the forest : no doubt that made her so vicious.
 
 48 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 It being now late, I thought it a suitable time to knock off, 
 so made tracks for camp. I afterwards regretted not having 
 gone on as long as there was any daylight ; as I heard (what I 
 did not know at the time) that a big bull, which I had been 
 told was in the herd but had not seen, was caught sight of by 
 a native with me just when I shot the last elephant. One 
 ought never to give up while there is a chance of scoring 
 another when hunting for ivory. Still I had not done so badly 
 for that day : though my teeth were not large they were nice 
 " kalashas," and a better average size than those I had got two 
 days before. My men, too, were very pleased and jubilant 
 that our luck had turned, and that we were at last really doing 
 some good work. To make elephant-hunting pay in Eastern 
 Equatorial Africa is no easy matter ; the expenses of an expedi- 
 tion are so heavy, owing to the enormous cost of transport and 
 the necessity of taking a large number of porters both for this 
 purpose and also for safety ; the distances, too, are so great, 
 and so much time is cut to waste in travelling and inevitable 
 delays from various causes. The uncertainty of animal trans- 
 port is sufficiently shown by the fact that I had only a single 
 survivor (and it afterwards died) left out of upwards of twenty 
 pack donkeys ! As to trade, nowhere I have yet reached is there 
 any profit to be made by a white man ; Swahili and Wakamba 
 traders have spoilt it. Moreover, ivory trading is a tedious, 
 pottering process, far better suited to the Sw^ahili than the 
 English temperament ; especially in a climate where activity 
 is (in my experience) the great essential in preserving good 
 health, while stagnation means fever. 
 
 The next day we cut out the tusks. Of course the 
 elephants had cleared out. I tried to get information as to 
 where the herd had gone to, and word was brought that it had 
 gone down a stream that ran through the forest in which I 
 had found it, in the direction of the Gwaso Nyiro River ; so I 
 determined to go in search again on the morrow, notwith- 
 standing that my feet were still very sore and that I was
 
 II ON THE JAMBENI RANGE ■ 49 
 
 suffering from a touch of fever, brought on by the pain and 
 consequent restless nights they caused me. On the way back 
 to camp that day I shot another impala in the curious striped 
 bush previously described. One of these bucks standing among 
 the red-barked mimosa stems was very difficult to make out, 
 so exactly did its colour match with these trees. The impalas 
 in this part of Africa seem to have much wider-spreading horns 
 than those of the south. They are nowhere anything like so 
 numerous as they used to be in the parts of South -Eastern 
 x'^frica I hunted in years ago. Along the Umbuluzi, lower 
 Komati, Crocodile and Sabi rivers they were formerly to be 
 met with in immense herds; but in Central Africa the herds are 
 always comparatively small and these much fewer and farther 
 between, though here they are very much freer from molesta- 
 tion. On the strength of the news that had been brought me 
 as to the direction the elephants had retreated in, I took a 
 long round next day through the low country in hopes of 
 cutting their spoor ; but the report proved to be false, so I had 
 my tramp for nothing except that I shot another impala for 
 the benefit of some natives who were with me. 
 
 Though badly in want of a rest — both for the sake of my 
 feet and general health — as a Mthara native had come to 
 report elephants to be in another patch of forest, beyond the one 
 where I had killed mine, and slept in camp on purpose to take 
 me there, I made a very early start with him the next morning 
 to look for them. The place was very similar to the other, 
 though of less extent ; with, like it, a swamp in it. The 
 elephants were not there though ; but the spoor of the day 
 before showed our guide had not deceived us. We went a 
 long way farther in search of them, leaving the next district 
 (called Janjai) to our left, and got close to the foot-hills of 
 Kenia. We found many recent spoors and at last some of 
 the night before, but too late in the day to be worth following 
 at such a distance from camp, as it was in open bush and they 
 were therefore likely to lead us a long chase. However, I had 
 
 E
 
 50 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 a good look at the country and gained information likely to be 
 of use. I saw three giraffes with a small herd of zebras and a 
 couple of rhinos during the day, but did not attempt to shoot 
 anything (though one of the latter with a rather fine horn gave 
 me a tempting chance), as it was far from camp and I did not 
 want to be delayed by waiting for my men, who were in want 
 of meat, to skin and cut up an animal. This was a long, hard 
 day and I felt I must take a rest, as my feet were very 
 painful in the night : so the following day I really did remain 
 in camp. 
 
 A great many of my Mthara friends came to my camp to 
 make shauri {sJiowery it is pronounced), as the Swahili call a 
 palaver, corresponding to the South African " indaba." The 
 shauri is a great institution in Central Africa, and I have known 
 white men to develop quite a passion for shauri making ; but 
 for my own part I find them a bore, though one cannot escape 
 them altogether. One of these, in this instance, was about an 
 elephant (one wounded by me) which I had been informed had 
 been found : but it turned out it was a mistake, arising from 
 defective interpretation. I had to promise to go to the kraals 
 the next day to call upon " my father " (that is the father of 
 my new " blood brother "), whither the young men were to 
 escort me. In the afternoon, as a relief to the monotony of a 
 whole day in camp and partly to get away from these tedious 
 " shauris," I strolled out to look for impala, as I knew there 
 were some quite near and meat was wanted, and succeeded in 
 shooting three. 
 
 ]\Iy visit to the kraals was not at all interesting. The 
 huts are small, untidy, and dirty, as are the owners. I had an 
 interview with a blind old man (my brother's father) and was 
 kept waiting a long time, while my relatives made their 
 inevitable " shauri," but was eventually given a sheep and a 
 promise of men to go with me to hunt under Kilimara, and 
 allowed to go my way. 
 
 As this escort was not to come till the day but one after.
 
 II ON THE JAMBENI RANGE 51 
 
 and I thought it better to wait for it, so that I might be 
 introduced by my friends to the adjoining tribe of Janjai (which 
 I had been told was likely to be hostile to travellers), I decided 
 to hunt for my men the next day and went out early for that 
 purpose. I followed the little stream that rose close to my 
 camp down for some distance and then struck across towards 
 some koppies, which like those on the other side of the range 
 are small craters — some almost perfect. But before getting 
 far I saw three rhinos feeding in the open : a cow with a half- 
 grown calf and a little way off a bull. I got round to leeward of 
 them and stalked the bull, keeping a tiny bush between us ; and 
 then sat down and waited till he gave me a favourable chance, 
 which he soon did, moving slowly across my position, when I 
 gave him a shot behind the shoulder. He ran for a short way 
 and stood for a little, but blood coming from nose and mouth 
 showed that he was done, and he soon went down. As I 
 wanted to get a good supply of meat to last my men some 
 time (for they were only getting half rations of other food), and 
 the rhinos were still unalarmed, I now turned my attention to 
 the cow. I followed similar tactics in her case, getting a baby 
 thorn tree before me, and gave her a precisely similar shot with 
 exactly the same result. I wanted to let the young one go, as 
 it was quite old enough to take care of itself ; but as it would 
 not run away and when we went forward seemed inclined to 
 be pugnacious, and being as big as a large bullock could have 
 made itself unpleasant, I shot it too. I sent for all hands to 
 carry in the meat, and as it was only a short way from camp 
 none of it was wasted, and it gave my men a good store of 
 biltong. I didn't myself care then for any part of a rhino 
 except the tongue, which is very good when thoroughly boiled ; 
 but Swahilis consider the liver a great delicacy, and delight 
 in the oily fat. The latter I found useful, together with the 
 elephant fat, of which I had now a good store, for my 
 extemporised slush lamp (made out of a butter tin), as I was 
 short of candles.
 
 52 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap, n 
 
 I climbed one of the koppies near to look over the country, 
 and got a fine view all round. It being very open I could see 
 everything for a long distance and made out six or seven other 
 rhinos in sight and a couple of giraffe, but no other game 
 barring a very few Grant's gazelle. On my way back to camp 
 I met one of the Mthara natives coming to tell me that there 
 were two or three elephants in the bush where I had shot the 
 others. It was too late, however, to go after them that day ; 
 so I arranged to start very early the next morning, and he 
 promised to meet me on the way.
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 CAMPING AT MOUNT KENIA 
 
 A good rhino horn — A fresh campaign — Advantage of head shot — • Exciting 
 encounter — Attacked by bees — A red-letter day — Eleven elephants killed — The 
 Kenia jungle — Wealth of butterflies — A crater lake — Hippos — Return to Mthara 
 — Start for the Gwaso Nyiro River — Signs of elephants — A hunter's disappoint- 
 ment — Sufferings from thirst — Encounter with lions — Rhinos — Filial affection — 
 Despatch of ivory — Return to Laiju — A hazardous undertaking — Hostile natives. 
 
 Accordingly I was off as soon as it was light ; but as the 
 guide had not met us by the time we reached the first swamp, 
 just inside the forest already described, I sat down to wait 
 while one of my men went off to look him up in his shamba, 
 which was not far off As their cultivation was so near the 
 elephants' haunt and the latter were so fond of making havoc 
 of the crops by night, the owners were in the habit of sleeping 
 there in huts built on very high stakes or in the branches of 
 a big tree, whence they kept a look-out and tried by shouting 
 to frighten away the depredators. We had to wait some time 
 and as there was a cold wind blowing it was rather miserable 
 so early ; but I amused myself by watching through my 
 glasses the quaint behaviour of some baboons sitting in a row 
 that were trying to warm themselves in the sun on the other 
 side of the swamp, where its first rays had just reached. While 
 so engaged one of my men drew my attention to a rhino cow 
 with a half-grown calf on the hillside just above, where it was 
 open with only scattered shrubs. As we could see she had a 
 very fine horn I determined to occupy myself during the delay
 
 54 ELEPHANT-HUNTJNG IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 by going after her. I stalked up near, and getting a good 
 opening gave her a shot in the usual place. She ran off but 
 soon stood, and as I wanted to make sure of her I gave her 
 the second barrel (though it was really not needed) also in the 
 right spot. She then ran only a few yards farther and dropped. 
 Her horn was far more magnificent even than I had thought 
 when examining it through my glasses. It measured fully 
 forty inches round the curve and was beautifully tapered 
 and symmetrical. This was not only by far the longest I had 
 ever shot but considerably longer than any (belonging to this 
 species) I had had the opportunity of measuring, thirty-five inches 
 being the best measurement I had, up to then, myself verified.^ 
 The latter had been a much straighter and thicker one, 
 apparently of a male. I was no longer sorry for having been 
 compelled to wait. As there seem to be some points with 
 regard to the rhinos of this part of Africa on which differences 
 of opinion exist (judging from letters that have at different 
 times appeared in the Field on the subject and observations I 
 have heard), I will, later on, endeavour to add my mite to the 
 information on the subject as the result of my own personal 
 experiences and observations. 
 
 But first let me finish the account of this day's work, 
 which was to be an exceptionally lucky one. After sending 
 back to camp for men to come and carry the meat, with 
 orders that it was to be cut up and dried for future use, the 
 guide having turned up we went on. It seemed that the 
 elephants reported as being in this cover yesterday had not 
 stopped, nor were any about now ; indeed it was hardly to be 
 expected that these intelligent beasts would harbour here now 
 
 ^ This horn (I say advisedly the horn, for the animal which bore it was indistinguish- 
 able from any other of the numerous rhinoceroses of the district which differ in no respect 
 from the typical R. biconiis) ought perhaps to be classed as R. holmwoodi ; but I have 
 a shrewd suspicion that the range of that interesting species is limited to the bazaars 
 of Zanzibar. I have since seen a more striking specimen still, with a double bend — 
 first back, then forward — which measured 485 inches along the curve. A photo- 
 graph in which the first-mentioned horn is shown, together with others, will be found 
 on p. 353.
 
 Ill CAMPING AT MOUNT KENIA 55 
 
 with the carcases of their fellows scattered here and there 
 through the forest ; so we went on to the next patch, where 
 there was another swamp. Having searched this through 
 without finding any fresh spoor, I hesitated whether to perse- 
 vere again to the Janjai valley or return to camp ; but one 
 native being confident that we should find there to-day, we 
 pushed on. As soon as we got over the intervening ridge, 
 beyond which was another broad flat valley also with forest 
 and scrub bordering a swamp, while on the far side were low 
 open hills with kraals and cultivation at their base, elephants 
 were seen in the bush below and close to its edge on our side. 
 
 I at once commenced the campaign, getting first to lee- 
 ward and then cautiously advancing. I easily got close up, 
 and could see several, as they were standing in a most 
 favourable position by trees where there was a small space 
 comparatively open, while I was hidden by a screen of tall 
 undergrowth ; but as one was much larger than the rest 
 (evidently a big bull, though I could not see his tusks), I 
 waited till he gave me a chance at the temple, and was lucky 
 enough to drop him dead, killing a cow alongside of him 
 similarly with the second barrel. Loading quickly I had 
 time to knock over another cow before they ran. When 
 taken quite by surprise in this wa}-, if one can only manage 
 to drop the first on the spot, its companions frequently give 
 one the chance, before making up their minds what is the 
 matter, to get in a second shot ; and possibly even, as in this 
 case, should that also be successful, yet another. That is one 
 great advantage of the head shot. If shot through the heart 
 an elephant immediately rushes off, though only for a short 
 distance, of course scaring any others with it. I have found, 
 however, that though one can make pretty sure of dropping a 
 cow if one gets a fair chance, the brain of an old bull is by no 
 means so easily reached. The bull I had just shot, though 
 large (I measured him as accurately as I could the next day, 
 and made out his height to be about ten feet six inches), was
 
 56 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 a comparatively young animal, with only (for a bull) moderate 
 teeth weighing 5 5 lbs. apiece. I did not waste time in 
 examining my prizes then though, hardly allowing myself 
 even a glance at them, for we heard others close by, and going 
 in the direction and climbing a tree I was able to see one. 
 
 The undergrowth was here very dense, tall, and leaf}', but 
 on getting a little nearer I could just make out a bit of the 
 elephant I had seen from the tree, and was worming my way 
 forward with the greatest care so as not to make any noise, my 
 eyes fixed intently on it, when suddenly I heard something 
 which made me look round quickly to the left, to behold 
 another, which must have been within a few yards, though hidden 
 by the thick high scrub, coming for me and almost on me. 
 No time to aim ; all I could do was to bang off in its face, 
 which was right over me, and throw myself down into the scrub 
 behind me. I could just draw myself among the stems far 
 enough to escape being trodden on, and only just in time, as 
 she (it was a cow with small tusks) was where I had stood the 
 instant before (for my shot did not stop her), and waited there 
 apparently looking for me. She could easily have reached me 
 with her trunk, which I could see moving about as if feeling 
 for me, without stirring, and I momentarily expected to be 
 hauled out by one of my legs, which I was unable to draw in 
 farther on account of the close-growing scrub, and made an 
 end of in some unpleasant fashion. As she stood there a second 
 or two, screaming and wondering, as it seemed, what had 
 become of me, I fired my second barrel as well as I could for 
 her ear ; but I was in so awkward a position (a bit flustered, 
 too, I confess) that I failed to get at her brain. However, she 
 made off on receiving the shot. I now found that my cartridge 
 pouch was not on me, and in the excitement of the moment 
 forgot what had become of it, so rushed back to Squareface (as 
 I called my gunbearer), who was a little way behind me, for more 
 ammunition. We sought in vain for the belt and pouch where 
 I had dropped my hat in avoiding the charge, and at last it
 
 Ill CAMPING AT MOUNT KENIA 57 
 
 turned out that an idiot of a Swahili (one of two or three 
 I had following me), to whom I had given it to hold while I 
 climbed the tree, had put it on himself instead of handing it 
 back to me. I was not complimentary to him, as his stupidity, 
 added to my own forgetful ness, might have cost me my life. 
 
 I began to follow up the spoor of this vicious cow, though 
 there was not much blood on it, and I did not think she was 
 badly wounded, for I felt rather vindictively inclined towards 
 her ; but before we had gone far another little clump of 
 elephants was discovered not far off, towards which I 
 accordingly made. Getting up to them I succeeded in 
 flooring another cow with fine tusks, one of which grew right 
 across the other (this skew tooth proved particularly long and 
 solid, having scarcely any hollow at the base). The rest ran 
 to the edge of the bush and stood on a slight rise among low 
 scrub, just outside the tall forest patch. I followed, and 
 getting a good view of them knocked over a right and left, 
 and loading again was just about to repeat the performance, as 
 the others still stood about apparently quite bewildered, when I 
 was suddenly attacked by swarms of bees, whose tub was in the 
 tree under which I stood. (It is the practice of the natives to 
 stick these bee tubs up in trees here and there about the bush 
 for the accommodation of the wild bees, which speedily take 
 possession of such convenient quarters, by which simple means 
 they secure a regular supply of honey for themselves.) They 
 stung me round my eyes and all over my face, ears, neck, etc., 
 compelling me to flee ignominiously and leave the elephants 
 still standing ! This was a sad stroke of bad luck and 
 probably cost me a brace of elephants. I could hold my own 
 with the elephants alone, but when reinforced by these fiery 
 little allies I was instantly and helplessly put to flight. After 
 retreating a little way, however, I managed to shake off the 
 new enemy, and going round above the elephants returned to 
 the attack, and was in time to get a shot at another ; but they 
 were now on the move, whilst I was somewhat upset by my
 
 58 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 discomfiture and numerous wounds by the bees, so that, though 
 my next shot knocked down another cow, she was only 
 wounded and got up again directly ; with the second barrel, 
 however, I felled her again and left her for dead. My rifle 
 got quite hot after these five shots in quick succession. 
 
 I now sat down for a short rest and a drink of gruelly 
 native beer (very refreshing and sustaining when one is hot 
 
 " The natives stick these tubs in trees for the accommodation of wild bees, by which 
 simple means they secure a regular supply of honey. " 
 
 and empty), while my gunbearer and I pulled the stings out of 
 each other's face and neck, the second one meanwhile going 
 to cut off the tails of the elephants I had just shot. The last 
 one they could not find, and brought me word that it had 
 gone ; but as it had fallen just under the bee tree, I thought 
 they had perhaps been afraid to venture to the right spot, and 
 was not satisfied until I had once more run the eauntlct of the
 
 Ill CAMPING AT MOUNT KENIA 59 
 
 still furious insects and seen for myself that nothing but a pool 
 of blood remained to show where she had fallen. I knew it 
 was useless to follow her, as she had clearly been only stunned ; 
 so, word having been brought me that some of the herd had 
 just been seen on the far side of the valley, we made our way 
 through the bush towards the open beyond. But just before 
 emerging from the forest we came across another little lot, and, 
 my luck still holding, I scored another right and left — the 
 third to-day — at a young bull and a cow. Running on, I was 
 able to get in another shot, at a big fellow, but bungled it 
 somehow and he went off with the rest. 
 
 I now started with the man who had brought me word 
 about some others he had seen ; but we were unable to find 
 them, and after wasting some time we went towards some 
 natives who were standing on a rise in the direction of their 
 shambas, and whose gesticulations and beckonings seemed to 
 indicate that they could see elephants. Sure enough, on 
 reaching the high ground where they were, we found that a 
 small herd was visible in a rather open part of the bush. But 
 the wind was blowing towards them, and although I made a 
 detour to avoid going down wind, they had already scented 
 danger before I reached the place, and were retreating. I got 
 a running shot, but the scrub was too high to allow a clear 
 view, and there was no result. Following them up, and 
 occasionally sending a man up a tree to survey the jungle, I 
 soon found where some had halted once more. I climbed a 
 tree myself to note their position, and made them out standing 
 in a clump in a little opening. Having got up pretty close, 
 and finding it impossible to see for the high scrub, I climbed 
 the broken bough of a large tree which happened to lean at a 
 convenient angle against the trunk, reaching to the ground at 
 the end. Getting high up on to it, I got a good view of the 
 elephants, and waited some time for the largest to give me a 
 chance ; but he persistently kept behind the others, which were 
 huddled together, and finally moved into tall scrub, where he
 
 6o ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 went out of sight ; so I chose a cow with long and very straight 
 tusks, which stood at the outside of the clump, giving me a 
 fine chance at her temple, and had the satisfaction of seeing 
 her throw up her trunk and fall dead to my shot. I had now 
 used all the .577 cartridges I had with me, as I had unluckily 
 omitted to replenish my pouches before starting on the morning 
 of this red-letter day ; so I fell back upon the Martini-Henry, 
 which my men passed up to me, afterwards throwing me 
 cartridges one by one. The elephants were moving off, but, 
 passing diagonally across my position, were still within shot. 
 The cover was very high and dense, so that they were hidden 
 even from my commanding perch ; but two stood with their 
 heads in view long enough to give me another opportunity, and 
 I succeeded in dropping both. The last fell with its head rest- 
 ing on the other. It proved to be a young one with very small 
 teeth, unfortunately, but in such thick jungle it is impossible 
 to pick and choose much. I had now eleven elephants dead. 
 
 The sun by this time was low, so that it would take us all 
 our time to reach camp by dark ; and as I did not feel sure 
 how the natives here, against whom I had been warned, might 
 be disposed towards the white intruder (though so far as I had 
 seen they seemed friendly enough), I thought it prudent to go 
 back without further delay. I accordingly had the tails of the 
 last five elephants cut off — getting a bit of a scare over one, 
 which could not be found at first, but proved to be dead safe 
 enough, to my relief — and tramped hard back to my boma, 
 meeting before I got there some of my men, who, as it began 
 to get dusk and I had not arrived, had started to see what had 
 become of me. I was, of course, well pleased with my success, 
 though I considered I ought to have secured a couple more 
 elephants, and particularly the big fellow I had wounded. I 
 had not been feeling very fit in the morning, but that had gone 
 off, and at night I was as fresh as possible, my feet, luckily, 
 being nearly all right again. I had used in all just twenty 
 cartridges.
 
 CAMPING AT MOUNT KEN I A 
 
 6i 
 
 I have perhaps described with tiresome minuteness every 
 detail of this day's hunting ; but it was one of such exceptional 
 opportunities that it seems worth while to give full particulars 
 of all its incidents. I may add that, some time after, some 
 natives found the large elephant which I had wounded, dead, 
 and I eventual!}- recovered the tusks (though not, unfortunately, 
 
 Nativl Girls and Wumen of Tribes near the foot of Mou;-,i Kl^ia. 
 
 (From a Photograph by Dr. KoLii.) 
 
 without rather serious trouble with them), which weighed 
 between 80 and 90 lbs. apiece. 
 
 Next day I moved my camp to near the patch of forest 
 where I had been so lucky, for the convenience of getting out 
 the ivory (which my boys took two days to do), and afterwards 
 to a stream close to the extreme base of Mount Kenia, in order 
 to hunt in the extensive forest on its lower slopes. I was 
 fortunate enough to shoot a giraffe at the stream, just at the 
 place where I wanted to camp — one of the three which I found 
 there on arriving ahead of my men, and stalked successfully
 
 62 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 — thus obtaining without trouble a fresh supply of good 
 meat. With the exception of rhinoceros, of which there is a 
 good sprinkling, there is hardly any game (besides elephants) 
 in all the neighbourhood. 
 
 During the next fortnight I hunted perseveringly from this 
 camp without any success. Though I toiled hard almost every 
 day, frequently from daylight to dark — having my breakfast 
 before it was light and my dinner often late in the evening, 
 with nothing between but a bit of biscuit and a drink of water 
 or perhaps a banana — only once did I sight elephants, and in 
 that case I bungled abominably a chance at two bulls, both 
 getting away wounded, I regret to say. I followed the spoor 
 almost daily, but owing to the densely matted nature of the 
 tall dark jungle in which the elephants here live, except during 
 their nocturnal rambles, it is next to impossible, unless by a 
 stroke of exceptional luck, to get a shot at them. The labour 
 is most arduous. There are no open paths in this jungle ; the 
 growth is so elastic that the passage of elephants leaves scarcely 
 any opening, and one has to struggle, stoop, and crawl con- 
 tinually to get through at all. The work is very exhausting ; 
 and, to add to the drain on one's strength, poisonous caterpillar 
 hairs and an irritating dust from the vegetation, through which 
 one has to be always forcing one's way, cause a most annoying 
 eruption on the body, the itching of which is a constant worry 
 by day and prevents the refreshing sleep at night needed to 
 recruit the strength daily expended. A caterpillar down one's 
 neck, for instance, causes intense itching, tingling, smarting, 
 perhaps for days. All such discomforts would, however, be 
 lightly regarded by the elephant-hunter if he were rewarded by 
 success in the pursuit of his quarry. But such is the density of 
 this Kenia jungle that though you may get within a few yards 
 of your elephants it is impossible to see them, and they either 
 scent or hear you ; and all the satisfaction you get, after hours 
 of hard work, is to hear them crashing off. So tall, too, is this 
 cover and so leafy, that even from a tree (where there are any)
 
 Ill CAMPING AT MOUNT KEN I A 63 
 
 nothing is visible, though the elephants may be close by. It is 
 not to be wondered, then, that I got disheartened and came to 
 the conclusion that I was wasting my time and strength, and 
 after a thorough trial of the district gave up such a hopeless 
 task. 
 
 The forest on the lower slopes of the mountain (I did not 
 try the higher parts) is not all of the same nature as above 
 described ; but in the comparatively open tree forest, where the 
 undergrowth is scant, the elephants never harbour. The relief, 
 after toiling through the jungle where their haunts are, to enter 
 the pleasant shades of these cool woods, where one can walk 
 with some comfort, is inexpressible. In parts of these, 
 particularly near springs, the wealth of butterflies is wonderful ; 
 sometimes I have seen the air filled with clouds of them of 
 several beautiful and magnificent species. Birds of course 
 there are ; but of mammals these forests seem almost destitute. 
 Barring an occasional rhino and once in a way the spoor of an 
 odd bushbuck, one finds no traces of game other than the 
 elephants, which roam through them but are by no means 
 always easy to locate. The mountain is very grand, with its 
 almost perpendicular peak of black rock shown off by a setting 
 of dazzling snow ; but its near vicinity is not without its draw- 
 backs. The cold comes down at night and chills an old African 
 uncomfortably ; while the heavy, almost frosty, dew on the long 
 grass is disagreeable to plod through at dawn, saturating one's 
 lower half with icy wet. It may be worth while, though, 
 before leaving the foot of the great mountain, to give an 
 account of a typical day or two's hunting on its lower slopes, 
 including a visit to a lovely crater lake which I discovered there, 
 called " Ngunga " by the natives.^ 
 
 I took with me a blanket, etc., and a little food, so as to be 
 prepared for sleeping out. We travelled along the edge of the 
 
 ' I afterwards called this Lake Kolh, after Dr. George Kolb, who was with me 
 there on a subsequent occasion and afterwards made an ascent of Mount Kenia, and 
 mapped the district.
 
 64 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 open country, which, as already explained, characterises the 
 whole of the northern slopes, as far as I could see (including a 
 high ridge running far out on the north side), keeping just 
 outside the extensive jungles and forests which lay on our left 
 as we ascended from the north-east. The crater itself is just 
 within the forest, but we had little to go through in reaching it. 
 Coming over the lower edge, which here has depressions with 
 game roads worn by hundreds of generations of elephants, 
 rhinoceroses, and buffaloes, the view is most enchanting. It is 
 perfectly circular and surrounded by high, steep forest-clad 
 walls ; below lies the placid lake occupying the whole of the 
 wide interior, while from the high edge Kenia's jagged, snowy 
 peaks are visible across, showing up sharply above the dark 
 forest which clothes the opposite wall. Great beds of water- 
 lilies with blue and lilac flowers and banks of water-grass or 
 rushes cut up the glassy, clear water, which may be reached by 
 the steep, stony paths above mentioned ; numbers of ducks, 
 coots, geese, divers, etc., swim, fly, or flap about on the surface ; 
 little water-hens with long toes run about on the lily leaves all 
 the same as on a Japanese screen. Hippopotami, too, inhabit 
 it (one wonders what instinct enabled them to find out so 
 secluded a retreat;, floundering clumsily about and eating roads 
 through the beds of lilies with machine-like movement of their 
 huge jaws, exposing the red interior of the mouth each time 
 they are opened wide. A cow and calf came near the edge, 
 while I watched, and stood in shoal water ; wild fowl gathered 
 round them, perhaps getting food stirred up by the hippos. I 
 watched the scene with delight ; and though my larder was 
 empty I could not disturb this peaceful sanctuary even by the 
 murder of a duck, so refrained from firing a single shot there. 
 
 I hid my camp away in a nook in the forest up on the 
 edge, to avoid alarming elephants should any come down the 
 path to water during the night, and made a circuit of the 
 crater to look for spoor, but found none. Above it juniper 
 forest begins, and I passed through some fine groves of tall,
 
 CAMPING AT MOUNT KEN I A 
 
 65 
 
 straight trees ; but the ground is mostly all rock — broken-up 
 lava, in fact. I did no more hunting that day, but spent the 
 afternoon in watching the birds on the lake and bathing, and 
 felt as if I should like to spend days pottering about in that 
 way. 
 
 In the morning, after a very chilly night, though my 
 guides (two natives of Janjai) were inclined to hang fire on 
 account of the cold and heavy dew, we started pretty early. 
 
 Natives of Janjai District. 
 
 (P'rom a Photograph by Dr. KoLB.) 
 
 Keeping still along the edge of the grass country we ascended 
 yet higher ; and, after seeing a little eland and rhino spoor but 
 no game, we came upon where a single bull elephant had 
 passed the day before. Its tracks soon entered the cover. 
 We persevered for a long time on its spoor through frightful 
 jungle, and at last got that of the night before ; but it kept 
 steadily ascending towards Kilimara, and finally the guides 
 refused to go farther and suggested striking back towards the 
 
 F
 
 66 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 cultivated grounds, far below, belonging to a tribe called 
 Mnyithu (the same I afterwards had the difference with), where 
 elephants had frequently been seen of late. The fact was we 
 were not provisioned for a campaign in the bush, and the}- — 
 and my own men too — were hungry ; so, as I had seen no 
 game, I was constrained to consent. We had the most trying 
 day imaginable, through the very densest, most abominable 
 jungle it is possible to conceive. Our guides eventually lost 
 themselves and us, and it was not till late in the afternoon that 
 we at last struggled out into shambas. We had found no 
 fresh spoor all day (except of a bushbuck) ; but I was rewarded 
 for my toil by a wonderful display of gorgeous butterflies 
 around a spring of crystal water in a valley, at which we rested 
 while I caught a number of fine specimens. 
 
 After an uncomfortable and rather hungry night, I was 
 shown the spoor of two bulls ; and I made another attempt 
 to overcome the difficulties of these extensive thickets. But it 
 was useless ; it is so leafy one cannot see a yard ; and after 
 much crawling through tunnels, shoving one's way — bent 
 double — or charging sideways between the meeting bushes, all 
 the satisfaction I had was to find the bulls had winded us and 
 gone. It seemed wonderful how such huge creatures could 
 crash through and leave so small an opening after their passage. 
 I followed for an hour or two all their windings, but, as they 
 kept down wind, had to give in. We had still a great deal of 
 this sort of leafy, elastic cover to overcome on our way toward 
 camp, after relinquishing the pursuit, before we at length, to our 
 infinite relief, got once more into the cool, pleasant forest. It 
 was delightful to swing along its shady avenues, comparatively 
 free from undergrowth, and seemed rest by comparison with 
 the labour of tearing one's way through that dreadful jungle. 
 
 I felt that I had done all I could here, for the time, and 
 that hunting elephants — dispersed as they seemed now to be- — ■ 
 in this almost limitless, impassable tract, in whose depths they 
 found a secure retreat, was waste of strength and energy. It
 
 Fig. 5. Fig. 4. 
 
 c^ Mylothris neumanni, Fif^. 1, la. 
 ? „ „ „ 2, 2a. 
 
 Catochrysops cupresceus, ii. sp., Fig. 3, 3n. 
 S Mycalesis dentata, n. sp., Fig. 4, ia. 
 
 „ 5. 
 
 BaU i^ Danielsson, Chrinio-Lit!:.
 
 Ill CAMPING AT MOUNT KENIA 67 
 
 was therefore with no regret that I returned to my " elephant 
 camp" at Mthara. 
 
 From there I then made a short expedition in another 
 direction — namely, northward, towards the Gwaso Nyiro 
 River. My Mthara friends had offered to take me to a swamp, 
 in whose neighbourhood they said elephants were sometimes 
 to be found ; so I accepted their guidance, and on 31st May 
 we started, in the lightest possible marching order, as I did not 
 intend to be away more than a night or two from my camp. 
 It was nearly noon before we got off, on account of the guides 
 being late — rather to my disgust, as I am always for an early 
 start even if the distance to be travelled is not great ; — but as 
 we had only half a day's journey to go, with no heavy loads to 
 carry, it did not much matter. We followed down a stream, 
 which comes from Mthara, through very stony ground, until 
 it spread out into a reedy swamp. The country was very open, 
 with only scattered thorn-trees, and so far did not look at all 
 likely for elephants ; nor did we see any spoor. On the way 
 I saw no game but a few Grant's gazelles ; but near the swamp 
 was a troop of Grevy's zebras, one of which I shot for my men. 
 After choosing a place to camp close to the swamp, where, 
 after some trouble, a spot fairly clear of stones was found, I 
 went after some gazelle, which were close by, at the guides' 
 request, and shot one for them, as they turned up their noses at 
 zebra. But they then said they did not eat game at all, and 
 only wanted the skin. The airs these natives give themselves, 
 in imitation of Masai customs, are ridiculous. They own very 
 little stock (a few sheep and goats and a very few cattle), but 
 pretend they despise game, though in reality most of them will 
 eat it on the sly. I have no patience with such nonsense, 
 especially in the bush ; but as they counted themselves my 
 brothers and had brought no food themselves, I gave them my 
 only yam, resolving not to take them as guides again. Two 
 or three ostriches were visible across the swamp, and an old 
 rhino was pottering about near our camp. There were, too,
 
 68 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 great numbers of guinea fowl and large francolin along the 
 stream. 
 
 At daybreak next morning a lion was roaring a little 
 distance off, and as soon as it was light I went to look for him, 
 as he was still to be heard every now and then ; but he 
 probably heard me coming over the stones, for I saw him 
 slinking away while yet a great way off. Then leaving most 
 of the men where we had slept, we started and followed the 
 stream down past another swamp, larger than the first, and on 
 to a third and smaller one. Here we found fresh elephant 
 spoor, a few cows having been there during the night. Having 
 looked all round the swamp (the last of the series) and finding 
 no other spoor, we followed this. The guides now said they 
 were hungry and thirsty ; so, as I was rather disgusted with 
 them for refusing good venison and had nothing else to give 
 them, I told them they had better go home. This they did. 
 The spoor now led us towards more bushy country. On the 
 way we saw quantities of game. Looking across one broad 
 open flat I saw a herd of giraffe (of which I counted forty-five) 
 pass across one end, while in another part were some half-dozen 
 rhino dotted about. Zebra and Grant's gazelle were in numbers 
 everywhere, and in the opposite direction several ostriches and 
 a few oryx. It was a wonderful and almost fabulous sight, 
 such as " one reads about but very seldom sees." One herd of 
 zebras, of mixed species, we watched pass within less than 
 thirty yards of us while we stood concealed. 
 
 Persevering on the spoor, we came, after some considerable 
 time, to country the surface of which was nothing but a mass of 
 fragments of broken-up black lava. Strange to say, though 
 many patches of this frightful ground, composed of hard lumps 
 of rock without a suspicion of soil, were quite bare, where there 
 were shrubs or grass the vegetation was much greener than else- 
 where. Here we found many signs of elephants having fed 
 yesterday, and soon after were cheered with the sight of freshly- 
 broken and chewed bits of bark, wood, etc., still wet, also
 
 Ill CAMPING AT MOUNT KENIA 69 
 
 recently dropped dung. We followed the now quite fresh 
 spoor eagerly though cautiously ; and after puzzling it out with 
 the greatest care and no little trouble, owing to the abominably 
 bad going, for some distance farther, we at length heard that 
 solemn rumbling of the great animal's stomach which is more 
 moving to the hunter's soul than the grandest organ peal. 
 Leaving my men now, I picked my steps, with fearful anxiety, 
 through the jagged, loose lumps of lava rock towards the spot 
 whence the sound came, and caught sight of one of the great 
 beasts, a little ahead, moving slowly to the right. 
 
 It was a still morning, the sun intensely hot, and the air 
 stirred slightly, sometimes one way and sometimes another. As 
 I approached nearer, with every effort to avoid being heard or 
 seen, I noticed this elephant to have but small tusks, so refrained 
 from shooting in hopes of getting a chance at a better ; but 
 immediately it showed signs of alarm (having probably got a 
 whiff of my wind) and began to make off. Looking ahead of it 
 I saw two others standing by a large thorn-tree : one a fine, large 
 female with nice teeth, the other smaller. I saw no time was 
 to be lost, so hurried after the first, got near before the others had 
 realised what was the matter, knocked over the big one, and then 
 let the first have a shot in the back as she retreated, partly 
 maiming her, with my second barrel. Reloading instantly, I, 
 as she shuffled off, got a slanting shot at her head and dropped 
 her dead. Noticing, as I ran past, the first still kicking on the 
 ground, I thought it a wise precaution to give her another 
 bullet right in the centre of the top of her head. Seeing the 
 blood run from the hole just in the spot I intended, I left her for 
 secure to follow the remaining cow. She turned and held 
 up her head to discover the cause of alarm, standing diagonally 
 with her head towards me. I think I had better perhaps have 
 given her a bociy shot, as the ground was fairly open ; but 
 thinking to reach her brain through the eye I aimed for that. 
 With a shake of her head, however, she made off again. When 
 my gunbearers came up we found a little blood on the spoor of
 
 70 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the wounded elephant, but decided to go and cut off the tails 
 of the two that were down before following it. Passing the 
 second one I had shot, to go to the first and largest, to my 
 intense chagrin I could not see it ; and, looking carefully, found 
 where it had lain, but only a large pool of blood there now, 
 no elephant ! This is an instance of the disappointments a 
 hunter has to bear, after days of hard toil and fatigue, just 
 when he has the fruits within his grasp. We then took up the 
 spoor of the large cow which I had left for dead. We followed 
 it a good way (or what we believed to be its spoor, for there 
 was some confusion of tracks owing to there being blood 
 on the spoors of both this and the other I had wounded), 
 and then heard the cry of an elephant ahead several times 
 at intervals, and at last got so close as to hear its stomach 
 rumbling once. The bush was here pretty thick, though the 
 ground was as rocky as ever. 1 tried to get up to it, but it 
 probably heard or winded me, for I only got a rather distant 
 glimpse of the top of its back as it made off. We tried to 
 follow, but the rocks made running almost impossible, and 
 though I climbed a tree it was nowhere to be seen ; all I saw 
 were two giraffes calmly browsing quite close by — much closer 
 than one can ever get to them when you want to shoot one. 
 We lost much time and also the spoor by this ; and when, after 
 trying back, we did at last again pick up the latter, it was 
 afternoon, we were all very fagged, thirsty and disappointed, and 
 I decided to give it up. 
 
 The day had been excessively hot and sultry, the sun 
 beating down upon and being reflected by the rocks with 
 terrible power ; the going had been trying in the extreme, 
 and the men had stupidly forgotten or neglected to fill the 
 water bottles. I had done a lot of running, too, as far as it 
 was possible to run among such a jumble of rocks ; but what 
 made me the victim of thirst especially that day (for I do not 
 commonly suffer in that way) was that I had drunk cocoa instead 
 of tea that morning. So when at last, well on into the
 
 Ill CA MPING A T MO UNT KENIA 7 1 
 
 afternoon, we began to make back in the direction of the 
 stream — the excitement being over and a good deal of annoy- 
 ance at having so bunglingly allowed my best elephant to escape 
 taking its place — the distance, which had not been noticed in 
 passing it that morning, seemed now very long. My men were 
 probably suffering more from thirst even than myself, as they 
 always eat quantities of meat, which tends to produce it, and 
 never seem able to go far without wanting water. Coming 
 then upon a herd of zebras (Burchell's ^ and Grevy's mixed), I 
 shot two, one of each kind, and, cutting them open, we drank 
 the water out of their stomachs. Zebras always have plenty, as 
 they drink regularly, never being found very far from water ; and 
 if you give the contents time to settle, it spouts out as clear as 
 possible when an incision is made in the right place. We did 
 not wait for this though. What we assuaged our thirst with 
 was yellow, like weak tea with a strong flavour of vegetables ! 
 But it was only grass after all ; and though we might have been 
 looked on with disgust, imbibing the lukewarm fluid, by those 
 who know not what thirst is, I certainly felt much refreshed 
 by it, and trudged on more unconcernedly to the spruit and up 
 it to camp past the swamps, arriving at dusk. A wash in a 
 bucket of hot water, followed by several of cold, freshens one 
 up to enjoy a hearty dinner, with such an appetite as ensures 
 against indigestion even though turning in directly after. 
 
 I was up again before daylight the next morning, feeling 
 quite fresh again after a good sleep, and off before sunrise. I 
 struck straight across country, leaving the stream to the left, 
 for the place where we had left the spoor of the wounded 
 elephant, and found it without difficulty, as we had marked the 
 spot. I sent on two of the men to cut out the tusks of the 
 one elephant that was really dead (they proved a little better 
 than I had thought, though one was broken), while I and Square- 
 face tried to take on the spoor again. However, after puzzling 
 
 1 I use this name to distinguish the small species, though the variety here is not the 
 typical Burchell's zebra.
 
 72 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 along for a while, it beat us and we turned back. In vain I 
 looked out for vultures in the direction the elephant had been 
 going in ; but as a matter of fact they often do not collect 
 round the carcase of one of these animals (especially if in thick 
 bush, as it generally is) until a day or two after it has died. 
 There were plenty though to be seen all about where I had 
 shot the zebras, and as we came along in the morning we had 
 seen the trees near the place laden with them, as if with a heavy 
 crop of some curious great fruit ; so I now determined to pass 
 that way, though it was by this time almost too late to hope 
 to find lions at the carcases, as I knew would have been very 
 likely earlier. I should have liked to go before, on the chance 
 of that ; but in elephant-hunting everything else has to give 
 way to the serious business. On the way back I saw the remains 
 of a Grant's gazelle which had just been eaten by a lion ; and 
 just after, on coming out into the open, saw one making away 
 ahead, having clearly been disturbed from its prey by our 
 approach. I tried to get a shot, but it would not wait, and 
 with an irritable swing or two round and up of its tail, and 
 sulky growls, made off into the bush before I could get near 
 enough for a running shot. 
 
 The place where the carcases of the zebras were was below 
 a little knoll — one of the ridges of lava, in fact. We approached 
 from above ; and, just as we got near the brow, a lioness 
 appeared from behind a bush, having evidently just come up 
 from below, but noticing us began to slink away again. I 
 immediately gave her a shot in the side with my .450, and 
 knocked her over. She lay kicking and growling for a second 
 or two and then lay in a crouching attitude, her head towards 
 us. I sat on a rock and gave her another bullet in the neck, 
 sending her sprawling again and biting savagely at the stones. 
 Hardly had I fired the second shot when another lioness came 
 up from beyond the first, apparently to see what was up. She 
 stood erect after coming over the rise, with head up and neck 
 stretched out, looking intently our way and offering a lovely
 
 Ill CAMPING AT MOUNT KENIA 73 
 
 shot at her chest. I did not neglect it. I had already taken 
 my double .577 from Squareface and slipped in two hollow 
 bullet cartridges (a most reliable way to be armed against lions) 
 so I at once sent one of these smashing balls just into the 
 junction of the neck and chest, dropping her stone dead. But 
 the first lioness was not dead yet ; so, not wishing to waste 
 more of my valuable cartridges, I took my " cripple-stopper " 
 (as I call a Martini-Henry one of my men always carries for 
 finishing off disabled elephants) and watched her a little while. 
 To my surprise she stood up, and as she took a step I put a 
 bullet into her shoulder, rolling her over again, growling and 
 flinging her tail in the air. She now lay quite still for some 
 time, so we went close up and I looked carefully at her with 
 my glass at a distance of only some dozen yards. I could see 
 her breathing regularly still, but as I felt sure she was helpless 
 and at the point of death, w^e went round to inspect the other, 
 which lay only a few yards on the far side of the first. We 
 stood over this one, and were talking quite loud and considering 
 whether we could get her under a tree to skin, when we heard 
 the other lioness growl, and, looking round, I saw she had 
 somewhat shifted her position. I at once gave her a raking 
 shot from in front of and above her, finishing her tough life ; 
 but before going right up to her and kicking her, I chucked a 
 stone on to her head as a test. 
 
 It was a hot job skinning them in the sun among the lava. 
 The lioness I had to give four bullets to was a very old one, 
 though in good condition ; the other in her prime and very fat. 
 The fat came in handy to add to my stock of rhino and elephant 
 fat for my lamp. But before skinning them I looked across 
 the green plain below us ; and there, on the far side, skirting 
 just inside the scattered bush, I saw a whole troop of lions, led 
 by a grand old male, the rest either females or immature males, 
 evidently coming from the zebra carcases. I counted up to 
 ten, and then, before I had finished, they got mixed up among 
 the bushes ; but I am certain there were at the very least (to
 
 74 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 be quite on the safe side) three more, which, with my two, 
 would make fifteen altogether. I never saw so many before 
 at once. 
 
 We got back to camp in good time, but it took us till 
 long after dark before the skins were cleaned and pegged out. 
 On the way back I saw an enormous herd of zebras, numbering 
 several hundred at least. No wonder there are so many lions 
 here with such a wealth of prey. We saw no more fresh 
 elephant spoor. 
 
 The next morning I made an early start again to search 
 for it in other directions, as it was necessary to wait another 
 day here for my lion skins to dry. We first followed our 
 stream down a good way, some on each side, and then struck 
 across towards some hills to the westward. We crossed two 
 more streams on the way, near one of which we passed close 
 to a rhino cow and calf lying asleep ; and I stood and had a 
 good look at them and wished I had a camera, it was such a 
 splendid chance for a photograph, and then went on, leaving 
 them peacefully slumbering. We made a very long round but 
 found no recent spoor, though during the last rains there had 
 been a large troop of elephants about, as we could see by 
 the mimosa bushes being broken all over the place in one 
 part we passed through. On our return by another course 
 we found we had three streams to cross instead of two ; the 
 extra one a very strong torrent, running above ground only in 
 places and then disappearing again. These brooks all come 
 from the neighbourhood of Kenia, but many do not reach the 
 Gwaso Nyiro with any surface water in their beds except 
 during the rains. On the way back, seeing another rhino 
 cow with a three parts grown calf lying under a tree, and 
 noticing that she had a rather nice horn, I thought I might as 
 well shoot her, as the meat would be welcome to my men ; so 
 I went up to her, and when she stood up shot her in the chest, 
 and she dropped after a short run. As usual when there are 
 two in company, the young rhino would not run away at first.
 
 Ill CAMPING AT MOUNT KENIA 75 
 
 and I was much amused by my men's cautious efforts to drive 
 it off, shouting and throwing stones at it from behind the 
 shelter of trees. I am dead against shooting anything I do 
 not want unless forced to do so in self-defence. The cow was 
 very fat, and my men (I had several with me) carried away 
 as much as they could stagger under. As we were all hungry 
 I made a fire, while they skinned her, and we had a snack of 
 toasted liver. Rhino liver is considered a great delicacy by 
 Swahilis ; they say it is like fowl's liver. 
 
 Farther on we passed among five more rhino — two cows, 
 each with a calf, and a bull — besides one or two more odd 
 ones I had seen in the distance during the day. I also noticed 
 some giraffe and a good many oryx, some Grant's gazelle, and 
 a few impala ; but there was nothing like the quantity of game in 
 this direction as the other way, the veldt being drier. We got 
 somewhat out of our course going back, owing to my men insist- 
 ing on keeping more to the right than I was steering, and my 
 giving in to them in spite of my own strong opinion that I 
 was right, as it proved I had been ; so that we struck our 
 spruit a good deal too high up and did not reach camp till 
 dusk. Altogether it had been a hard day ; for we had walked 
 fast almost continuously from daylight till dark : a good thirty 
 miles we must have covered, and under a very hot sun. As 
 there were clearly no more elephants in the neighbourhood, I 
 returned to my " elephant camp " at Mthara the next day, 
 seeing several rhinos on the way. When within less than an 
 hour's walk of camp, I passed near one with a young calf 
 lying in the open a little way to my left. I stood and looked 
 at her, and, noticing she had a good horn, was considering 
 whether to go and shoot her, as it was within easy reach of 
 camp for sending to fetch the meat, but had not yet taken my 
 .577 double, which had been carried in its cover as I had no 
 intention of shooting that day, when she got up and made 
 straight for me. Laying my single .450 down in front of me, 
 while my man hurriedly tore the other rifle out, I had just
 
 76 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 time to ram in a couple of cartridges (as she had some distance 
 to come) and fire a quick shot at her chest before she was upon 
 me. She had her head up still when I fired first ; but as she 
 got within about a couple of strides she lowered it for a toss. 
 Having taken my rifle from my shoulder after the first shot — 
 expecting it to turn her, as I have always found happen in 
 such cases — but she coming on straight for me as hard as she 
 could go, I had not time to get it there again, so hastily threw 
 up the butt with my right hand and pulled the left trigger with 
 the muzzle pointing downwards on to her neck and instantly 
 sprang to the right, just in time to let her pass where I had 
 stood, within arm's reach of me, covering my .450 with dirt. 
 But luckily, though she ran right over it, she did not step on it. 
 She ran right on and I after her ; I broke her shoulder with 
 another shot and then put three Martini bullets into her in 
 quick succession till she dropped. This was wasteful, as she 
 would soon have been dead without any of these superfluous 
 shots, but I was angry and would not wait to give her time to 
 die lest she should escape. 
 
 It generally takes a few minutes for these animals to 
 succumb to the effects of even a vital wound. My first 
 shot had struck her a little low for the heart, going into 
 her breast bone. The second barrel had entered the top 
 of her neck just before the hump, and must have disabled 
 her very soon, as it slanted downwards and penetrated deep. 
 Her calf would not leave her for a long time. Twice it 
 got its fore -quarters on its dead mother's back. Squareface 
 and Juma (my gunbearers) threw stones at it, and at last it 
 cleared out. It was old enough to shift for itself This rhino 
 had a very nice horn (27^- inches). Another (probably the 
 male) stood not far off for a long while after all the fuss was over. 
 I have noticed that in such family trios the male parent gener- 
 ally keeps at a respectful distance from the testy mother and 
 her offspring ; and I once witnessed a vigorous assault made by 
 a cow upon her hapless mate, which she prodded unmercifully,
 
 Ill CAMPING AT MOUNT KENIA 77 
 
 apparently because he had unwarily approached too near her 
 calf. I sent at once for men to carry in the meat, while we 
 cut off the horns. On a neck between two hills which we 
 passed through before descending into the valley where my 
 camp was, we disturbed yet another rhino ; and when close 
 home, just before crossing the little spruit where we got our 
 water, we came upon some impala and I shot a nice fat doe 
 for my own larder. 
 
 I was very tired and glad to take a rest the next day, 
 being rather unwell owing to the troublesome itching eruption 
 one gets when hunting in this country, which brings on touches 
 of fever. But in spite of these drawbacks I was very fond of 
 this camp, and was sorry to leave it. It was necessary, though, 
 to take my ivory back to my boma at Laiju ; and before 
 making another hunting trip I sent it off to the coast, in charge 
 of my more ornamental than useful headman, as I had more 
 men than I wanted here and was glad to reduce the monthly 
 expenditure a little. I also took the opportunity of forwarding 
 some specimens and despatching letters, the bearers of which 
 were to return with my mail from Mombasa. By the time I 
 got back to Laiju it was the second week in June, and I was 
 not ready to start northwards in search of elephants again 
 before the beginning of July. 
 
 One thing that delayed me was the necessity of making a 
 second journey to the neighbourhood of Janjai, to recover the 
 tusks of the bull elephant I have referred to as having been 
 wounded by me and afterwards found by the natives of the 
 next district beyond. This was a quick trip made for the 
 above purpose only. It was a somewhat hazardous under- 
 taking, as the natives refu.sed to give up the ivory and I could 
 only muster thirty -six men to take with me. We found 
 ourselves amongst a dense and, unfortunately, unfriendly 
 population, and spent a rather anxious night in the midst of 
 them, camped in a small open space among banana groves and 
 other cover without any boma to protect us. In spite of our
 
 78 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap, hi 
 
 endeavours to persuade them that we desired to discuss and 
 arrange the matter amicably, they surrounded us and after 
 dark began to shoot arrows at us, compelling us in self-defence 
 to dislodge them with our rifles. In the morning we retired 
 with the teeth without retaliating in any other way for their 
 attack upon us than by preventing them from making any 
 further attempt to interfere with us. I regretted very much 
 having been forced into a quarrel ; but when, on a subsequent 
 occasion, I visited their district, these natives had been trans- 
 formed, by the lesson they had learnt, from enemies into 
 enthusiastic friends. On passing through their country they 
 welcomed us, entreated me to become their blood brother, 
 acknowledging that our former little misunderstanding had been 
 all their fault ; and as I was pleased to accede to their request 
 and go through the ceremony of " eating blood " — in the midst 
 of an admiring, crowded audience, who solemnly murmured 
 earnest words of assent, after the manner of responses, to each 
 sentence of the declaration of brotherhood between us, 
 declaimed by the officiating performers of the rite which 
 constitutes the bond — they are now, I am happy to say, among 
 my firmest friends. 
 
 Apart from one's natural reluctance to be deprived of the 
 hardly-earned reward of much arduous hunting and many 
 blank days, I considered it a duty to make a point of 
 retrieving these tusks after being returned a defiant answer to 
 my civil message : a duty, I mean, not only to oneself, but to 
 future travellers, to insist on the white man's property being 
 respected. There is nothing I hate more than rows with the 
 natives ; but when forced on one you must go through with 
 them or lose all their respect. In all my dealings with the 
 natives in Central Africa, one consideration I ever bear in 
 mind is to try to make the country safe for other Europeans 
 who may come after me.
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 THE NDOROBO COUNTRY 
 
 Set out for Ndorobo country — Savage life — Camp at El Bogoi — Head waters of 
 ^Mackenzie River — A tribal raid — A disagreeable camp — Fishing for mineral — 
 Limestone springs — Bag two elands — Nearing Lorogi Mountains — Glimpse of 
 elephants — A thunderstorm — A handsome zebra — Start for Mount Nyiro — A 
 roundabout course — A fruitless journey — Return to El Bogoi. 
 
 It was not, then, till the 3rd of July that I started once more 
 from Laiju for a more extended hunting trip into the region 
 to the northward, commonly called the Ndorobo country, but 
 which is practically uninhabited, in the ordinary sense of the 
 word, for hundreds of miles ; for the Ndorobos are only thinly 
 scattered in small communities, leading the life of pure savages 
 — that is they neither cultivate nor own stock, but live on what 
 they can pick up in the bush. Before I went among these 
 people I had always supposed, from what I had heard and 
 read about them, that they were all skilful hunters, living solely 
 on game. I have found, however, that this is by no means 
 the case, at least in the region of which I am writing. The 
 majority of them depend almost solely on honey and wild 
 fruit, roots, berries, etc., for their existence ; and, as may be 
 supposed in a country to which nature has been by no means 
 bountiful in edible products, they are usually in a state of semi- 
 starvation ; indeed it is a puzzle to me how they manage to 
 live at all. It is certainly not a country I should care to be 
 turned out to graze in after the manner of our first parents in
 
 8o ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the Garden of Eden. There are only a few among their 
 number having any skill at hunting, and even these are not 
 what I should call expert hunters. They kill now and then an 
 elephant or two or a rhinoceros, either by creeping up to and 
 harpooning them or by trapping with a suspended javelin in a 
 heavy shaft, on the " booby trap " principle, set in their paths, 
 the weapon in either case being poisoned. In spite of the 
 poison, however, the animal (at all events in the case of 
 harpooning by hand) more often gets away wounded than is 
 bagged, and frequently recovers from the wound, as I have 
 myself shot elephants with old wounds on them, and in one we 
 found the head of the weapon. Game of other kinds they 
 seem hardly ever able to kill at all, except once in a way 
 getting a giraffe in these traps. Their easiest victim is the rhino, 
 which, on account of its sleepiness, is easily crept up to quite 
 close ; and in consequence, in the neighbourhoods frequented 
 by these savages, rhinos are scarce and the few there are rarely 
 show themselves during daylight outside the thick bush. 
 
 To return from this anticipatory digression to my journey. 
 I left this time only half-a-dozen men in charge of my goods 
 at Laiju ; for I wanted all available porters to carry food for 
 myself and those who were to stay with me in the wilderness, 
 and my small, but strong stockade being by this time com- 
 pleted, a few were quite safe inside, in the event of any trouble 
 with the neighbouring natives during my absence, and able to 
 take care of my belongings. I will not gi\'e a detailed account 
 of this journey from day to day, as it would be tedious. I 
 travelled at first by a rather circuitous route round the eastern 
 end of the Jambeni Range (the one always taken by Swahili 
 ivory traders visiting the Ndorobo country), but instead of 
 following the course upwards of the Gwaso Nyiro River, I 
 crossed it and struck across country to a mountain called 
 Gwargess, and thence to the foot of the Lorogi Mountains, 
 where I formed a camp on a small stream called El Bogoi. 
 There is a fair quantity of game in places along the route,
 
 THE NDOROBO COUNTRY 
 
 8i 
 
 chiefly oryx and Grant's gazelle, with zebra of both species, and 
 a few rhinos where a sufficient supply of water is within reach, 
 and here and there giraffe, while in suitable localities a 
 sprinkling of waterbuck, impala and Waller's gazelle are to be 
 found, and occasionally ostriches. I shot one of the last, a cock 
 
 Scene on Gwaso Nyiro with Waller's Gazelle {Lit/wcrariius 'walleri) 
 
 6 AND 9 IN CHARACTERISTIC ATTITUDES. 
 
 in pretty good plumage, and was always able to kill sufficient 
 game to provide meat for myself and men. 
 
 During the first two days twelve streams were crossed, 
 all coming out of the Jambeni Range. These are the 
 head waters of the branch of the Tana River called by 
 Chanler and Von Hohnel the Mackenzie. I should add, with 
 regard to the range so called on Von Hohnel's map, that the 
 natives really apply that name onl)' to the highest peak, and 
 do not use it (nor any general title) to describe the whole 
 range. On the third day we were fortunate enough to get 
 water in a hole in the rocky bottom of a gully (which is often 
 
 G
 
 82 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chai>. 
 
 quite dry), at a convenient distance from the last stream. I 
 found afterwards that by a more direct route this place may be 
 reached on the second day. Here I found the skull of a 
 greater koodoo, an antelope which must be exceedingly scarce 
 in this part of Africa, as I had never yet come across one. 
 While here two or three young Embe natives came to get 
 water to drink. I had one brought to camp, and questioned 
 him as to where they had been, as their own district is a 
 considerable distance away. He said a large party of them 
 had been to make a raid on the Ndorobos of Lorian but had 
 failed to find them. These Embe people are a cowardly, but 
 cruel race ; they are afraid to attack any other tribe, so harry 
 the unfortunate Ndorobos. I told him what I thought about 
 it, and put him in rather a fright ; and old " Papa " (who was 
 with me as on a former trip), when he heard that his relatives 
 were to have been attacked, immediately drew out of his 
 quiver, with a savage look, his two most villainous-looking 
 arrows. The wretched fellow was divided in his mind between 
 fear and thirst ; fidgeting, as if wanting to run away, and 
 drinking alternately, until I reassured him by bursting out 
 laughing at " Papa's " vengeful expression and let him go about 
 his business with advice to let the Ndorobos alone. In passing 
 round the end of the Jambeni Range the baobabs are left 
 behind. From the coast up their bloated trunks have been a 
 common feature, but here the last are seen. 
 
 The next camping place is by a very perfect crater. Of 
 this I wrote in my diary — " This is a curious place, but a 
 disagreeable camp. The crater is large and deep. There is a 
 small lake at the bottom whose shallow water is very strongly 
 impregnated with some mineral (natron .'') smelling and tasting 
 of ammonia. It is in large white crystals. There were crowds 
 of Embe women fishing quantities of this substance up from 
 the bottom of the shallow water and carrying it up the steep 
 path in huge loads on their backs. I lifted one. It weighed 
 not a bit less, I will undertake to say, than a hundred pounds.
 
 IV THE NDOROBO COUNTRY 83 
 
 There were also a few men with donkeys, which they packed 
 with the mineral It seems they trade it for goats with the 
 Wakanda, who use it to mix with their tobacco. The drinking 
 water (nastily brackish) is got out of one of several pits near 
 the edge of the lake ; all the others produce (I was told) salt 
 water. I looked down from the edge of the crater, but did 
 not descend, as it is a long way down." 
 
 The country hereabouts and towards the Gwaso Nyiro is 
 frightfully barren and very stony. In some places are great 
 plains and ridges almost devoid of vegetation, consisting of 
 black lava in rough fragments of all shapes and sizes. This 
 makes very bad going for men carrying heavy loads, and 
 is trying work for their feet even with hide sandals — the more 
 so that we have now left all paths behind, except the fitful 
 game tracks ; — it is terribly destructive, too, to one's boots. 
 Fortunately the lava ceases at the Gwaso Nyiro River. The 
 lava overlies limestone, and where the latter crops out, as it 
 often does near the river, the water, which has been under- 
 ground before, comes to the surface here and there in springs, 
 some very large. One, on which I camped one day, was a 
 good-sized stream where it rose, but disappeared again a little 
 way below. It was, as these limestone springs often seem to be 
 here, quite warm, and the water slightly brackish ; it was full 
 of Igeches^as I found to my cost on bathing in it for the first — '^ 
 time. Quantities of game sometimes frequent these springs. 
 
 Some of the marches between the waters were rather long 
 on the north side of the river, and, as it was very hot, tried the 
 men a good deal. I saw some fresh elephant spoor once or 
 twice, but, as the country is mostly very open, the elephants 
 appear only to pass through it in the night, except, perhaps, 
 during the rains. I had to wait two or three days at the river 
 before going on, in order to send ahead to explore for water, as 
 our guides had not an intimate knowledge of the country through 
 which I wished to pass. While waiting I shot something every 
 day to keep up the supply of beef for all hands, generally oryx. 
 
 xC^ 6c-A-^
 
 84 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AERICA chap. 
 
 The best head was 33 inches (female), the longest I had then 
 got. From two of these, which were very fat, I got a good 
 deal of milk, very rich and a great treat in one's tea. One can 
 have no greater luxury in the " bara " than fresh milk, a very 
 rare one in East Central Africa. I always use honey, which 
 can generally be had from the natives, to replace sugar. The 
 latter one learns to do without, like all the " necessaries " of 
 civilised life, with the exception of salt, soap, and tea, of which 
 I always try to carry sufficient. For other things, such as flour, 
 one has to substitute whatever the country through which one 
 passes produces. Old " Papa " used generally to go out with 
 me to shoot. The Ndorobos are fond of the blood of freshly- 
 killed animals, and on one being opened they will put their 
 heads into the chest cavity and drink the warm blood or take 
 up double handfuls of the congealing vital fluid, sucking in the 
 clots with their mouths. On one occasion I made " Papa " stab 
 a buck, which was not quite dead, in the breast, so as to kill it 
 at once without injuring the scalp, as cutting the throat would 
 do. The blood spouting out, he went down on his knees, put 
 his mouth to the wound, and sucked it in with the keenest 
 gusto. There are still a few elands left on the north side of the 
 Gwaso Nyiro, survivors of the great cattle plague of a iow 
 years ago, and in one or two localities I have seen the spoor of 
 a very few buffaloes. I shot a fine bull of the former, and on 
 my return a cow, the only elands I bagged the whole trip. I 
 never set eyes on a single buffalo. 
 
 The shooting of the former was on this wise. We had, 
 after a long march, reached a rock pool in a small koppie near 
 a dry sand stream called the Njangitomara (giraffe) by the 
 Ndorobos. This, like many other places called after animals, . 
 is still obviously named appropriately, for the giraffes are 
 abundant at the present day : a striking contrast to the rivers, 
 etc., of the Transvaal, so commonly named after game of which 
 nothing but the name survives. The country was open, except 
 for a sprinkling of low mimosas ; but instead of grass, prickly
 
 IV THE NDOROBO COUNTRY 85 
 
 plants and shrubs covered the ground. I had cHmbed the 
 koppie with my glasses, and made out an ostrich and a rhino 
 with a big calf in the distance ; and, being anxious to get some 
 meat for my caravan, I went out with old " Papa " to shoot 
 something. I found the two rhinos lying down, and got close 
 up to them. I was just about to shoot the big one in the head 
 when she changed her position, and when I tried to get farther 
 round so as to obtain a side shot, she became aware in some 
 way of my proximity (perhaps she heard me — she could not 
 have scented me, as the wind was right) and suddenly jumped 
 up and faced me. I was very near indeed and did not care to 
 wait, so fired as well as I could for her throat ; for, owing to 
 the way she stood, her chest was not exposed. I was very 
 sorry aftervv-ards I had fired, as she galloped right away, and, 
 though we followed the blood spoor a long distance, as usual 
 when a rhino once gets well away, she kept on for miles and 
 miles and we had to give it up. I was particularly disgusted 
 with this abominable bungle, as I hate wounding an animal 
 uselessly, and I was specially desirous of getting meat that day. 
 Sweeping round, on our return, towards the river-bed above 
 mentioned, I soon spied two elands among some thorn bushes. 
 I tried to stalk them, but they saw me and made off; not, 
 however, straight away,, and as they crossed me at a swinging 
 trot I gave the second (a big bull) a good shot, though a little 
 far back, with my .450 (solid bullet). I followed full split, 
 and, after a hard run downhill, caught up to him, very sick 
 and going dead slow. Creeping nearer I gave him a perfect 
 shot behind the shoulder, and he galloped into the river-bed 
 close by and collapsed — a splendid massive beast and fat. 
 The cow waited, and I could have shot her too, but thought 
 " enough," and let her go. While men were fetched to carry 
 the meat I skinned the head, a nice one. I had a hard job to 
 turn the eland over with only poor old " Papa's " weak help, 
 but managed it. I came back late by moonlight, pleased, the 
 loss of the rhino having after all turned out luckily. On our
 
 86 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 way to camp we were charged by a rhino. I was obliged to 
 give it a shot in self-defence, which turned it off " Papa " 
 scooted like lightning and then cried out, much to my amuse- 
 ment. He laughed as heartily himself afterwards, and used to 
 imitate the way he had screamed and make fun of his own 
 discomfiture. It is certainly unpleasant to be charged by a 
 great snorting brute in the dark. My cook was gratified with 
 a huge mass of fat from round the eland's heart, which kept 
 his frying-pan supplied for some time. 
 
 As we neared the Lorogi Mountains the vegetation, which 
 farther back had been parched, gradually became greener, and 
 near the foot of the range was perfectly spring-like. The 
 quantity of muddy water in the Seya River, too, showed that 
 much rain was falling on the hills, and the summits were often 
 capped with heavy clouds, some of the showers from which 
 often reached the low country below. The air too felt quite 
 different, a pleasant softness showing a moister atmosphere ; 
 indeed, we seemed to have got into another and much 
 pleasanter climate than the excessively dry one of the open 
 country behind. I made my camp on the El Bogoi, a pleasant 
 little clear stream, a few miles from the foot of the range, and 
 at once sent back two-thirds of my men to fetch more food 
 from Laiju, intending to wait here for their return (which I 
 expected in about twenty days) and then push on to Donyo le 
 Nyiro (Mt. Nyiro), near the south end of Lake Rudolph, which 
 I had been informed was the best district for elephants. 
 Without donkeys I knew I could not do any good farther 
 north than that. I trusted to luck to my camp being pitched 
 in a suitable neighbourhood ; and, though I did no good there 
 at that time, it eventually proved to be about as advantageous 
 a position as I could have chosen in the district. 
 
 It took us a couple of days to find the Ndorobos of this 
 district, but I afterwards got to be great friends with them. 
 They showed me where to look for game, as there was 
 none close about, and if I shot more than I needed to
 
 THE NDOROBO COUNTRY 
 
 87 
 
 eke out the half rations of my own men, it was ahvays 
 a windfall to these unthrifty but pleasant savages ; as, for 
 instance, one day when I was lucky enough to kill a bull 
 and cow giraffe, right and left, and gave them the former 
 (which measured 16 feet ^ in height), while the cow pro- 
 vided me and my men with an ample supply of good meat, 
 besides giving me the luxury of fresh milk, they bringing me 
 presents of exquisite honey in acknowledgment. One is some- 
 times almost tempted to believe that these people possess some 
 
 AUTHOR'S Dining-Table in Bower. 
 
 peculiar faculty enabling them to divine the presence of meat 
 in camp. No sooner is game killed than they begin dropping 
 in, for all the world like vultures. It is not merely that the}- 
 follow those birds (though they do so), for vultures under an}- 
 circumstances are never absent from around the camp. I have 
 noticed the same thing amongst natives in South Africa. 
 
 Although there were elephants about and I went after them 
 
 ' In my experience this is tlio hcigiit of a full-grown bull, whether in Central or 
 Southern Africa ; 14 feet being the average of adult females. I have read of 18 feet for 
 a male, but have never seen one of such dimensions.
 
 88 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 many times, I was invariably unlucky, and during the time I 
 waited for the return of my men I never killed one ; I got 
 chances two or three times, but in every case I failed to score 
 for one reason or another. Twice I did get shots, though 
 indifferent ones, but both got away. The bush is dense and 
 thorny and of great extent, and the elephants are never found 
 except in the thickest parts, while I and the Ndorobos had to 
 get used to each other's ways and style of hunting. I also 
 wasted much of my time in hunting for meat for my men, 
 which kept me pretty hard worked, as game had to be sought 
 a considerable distance away. To give an example : one day 
 some of my Xdorobo friends brought me word that there were 
 some elephants in a valley some distance to the north. I was 
 off with them first thing next morning, taking some of my men 
 to carry a few necessaries to enable me to sleep out, but no 
 tent. On the way I shot at and broke the shoulder of an 
 oryx, and my little dog brought it to bay ; but before I could 
 get up to give it another shot she came back to me, letting it 
 away, and it got into thick bush and was unfortunately lost. 
 Farther on I killed a gazelle, though, which sufficed to keep 
 the wolf from the door for that day. 
 
 After leaving the extra men with my things at a little 
 spring at the head of the valley containing the bush where the 
 elephants were said to be, I went on with the two Ndorobo 
 guides and my gunbearers to look for them. We found the 
 spoor of a small herd of cows and calves, and, after much 
 trouble, at length got close to them. But the wind was fickle, 
 and, as is so often the case in these dense bushes under the 
 hills, came in provoking eddies, and before we could get up 
 to them they had got our wind and were already in full 
 retreat, and, though we followed some distance, all the satis- 
 faction I got was a glimpse of them making off, without the 
 chance of a shot, for the bush was too dense to allow of my 
 running up to them. The next morning I was off again 
 early, though feeling rather slack after a bad night, through
 
 THE NDOROBO COUNTRY 
 
 the roughness of the ground on which I slept. We went a 
 long tramp through thick bush, but found no fresh spoor, 
 so in the afternoon I worked round to some open country 
 in search of other game for meat. /\fter being disappointed 
 of getting a shot at a single giraffe which passed near 
 me on the way there, I was successful on reaching the open, 
 killing two oryx with as many shots, and an impala and a 
 gazelle a little beyond with three more. I gave one oryx to 
 my Ndorobo guides, and sent for my men to bring all my 
 things to some small rock pools I knew of nearer at hand than 
 our last night's camp, and to come on to carry the meat there. 
 In the meantime heavy rain with thunder came on, lasting 
 an hour and a half, making things very uncomfortable and 
 soaking us thoroughly. At last we got back to the water at 
 dusk, very wet, tired, and empty, to find my wretched cook and 
 boy standing shivering under the dripping bushes, waiting for 
 matches, but never having thought to collect firewood or do 
 anything towards making things ready. Of course no one had 
 thought of turning a bucket upside down over our sack of meal 
 to keep it dry. I was not long in packing them off to hunt up 
 firewood, while I set to work to chop out some dry wood from 
 the inside of the biggest sticks I could find and split it up into 
 thin slips and shavings with my knife, and soon started a fire 
 which by and by burned up to be the comfort of the whole 
 camp and to roast every one's meat. Then I had to see meat 
 divided, clean my rifles, which were very wet (work I always do 
 myself), and have my hot sponge-down ; so that it was eleven 
 o'clock before I got any dinner, and fully midnight by the 
 time I got to bed. But in hunting one must take things as 
 they come, one day with another. Fortunately the rain ceased 
 by sundown, and I was comfortable enough in the end, in spite 
 of adverse circumstances, and slept well till morning. It had 
 been a hard day's work, but I was in good hard condition and 
 robust health and thought nothing of it. Had I waited for 
 my Swahili servants to make the fire, though, I might have
 
 90 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AERICA chap. 
 
 gone hungry and cold to bed ; for they are perfect duffers at 
 it when everything is wet, and will waste a box of matches 
 pottering with a few wet sticks and never getting a light at all. 
 
 Of my stay in this district at that time, while I waited for 
 the return of my food caravan, there is nothing else of particular 
 interest to record, unless it be the measurements of a very fine 
 stallion zebra of the larger species (grevyi), which I took very 
 carefully immediately after death, as I was much struck with 
 the powerful proportions of these very handsome animals. 
 These were as follows : height at withers, 4 feet i i inches ///// 
 (or barely an inch under i 5 hands) ; length from forelock to 
 set on of tail, 6 feet 8| inches ; ditto to end of tail (without 
 tuft), 8 feet I inch ; girth behind shoulder, 5 feet p-J- inches. 
 It seems a pity such strong and useful-looking beasts should 
 not be made use of in a country where there is such a difficulty 
 about transport, and where all our domestic animals, including 
 even the humble ass, are so subject to disease. It is curious 
 that, although in their proportions, action, and the shape of 
 their hoofs, these zebras are far more horselike than Burchell's, 
 their ears are much larger, while the cry resembles that of the 
 ass very much more. 
 
 As my men did not return when I expected them, I 
 determined to waste no more time, but push on without them. 
 Accordingly I built a hut in which to store what food I could 
 not carry, and leaving two men in charge (whom I knew the 
 Ndorobos would not molest), I started with ten for Mount Nyiro. 
 It became visible the first day, far to the north by west. On 
 the second day we left the bush veldt behind and entered quite 
 open country, not, however, grassy, but covered with thorny 
 and other plants, very verdant-looking and rather pleasant, the 
 air being fragrant with the scent of flowers and aromatic herbs. ^ 
 Water, though, is scarce, and the going rather bad, the ground 
 being stony, with much white quartz. Where water was not 
 
 ^ I discovered a herb here, with a flavour resembling mint, which I found to be 
 excellent|for culinary purposes.
 
 IV THE NDOROBO COUNTRY 91 
 
 too far off, zebra (chiefly Grevy's here) were plentiful ; of one 
 (a mare) which I shot for meat on our second day, I wrote : 
 " A lovely creature, very fat, and as sleek as a well-groomed 
 and well-fed, stabled pony." This part is called " Ongata 
 Ndamez " ^ by the Ndorobos, that is, " Camel Veldt " ; and 
 farther on, where are high level plains covered with short, 
 sweet grass, they are known as " Ongata Barta " — " Horse 
 pasture." These names are relics of a tribe owning such animals, 
 which formerly frequented the district ; it is now quite un- 
 inhabited. Between the two is a long, waterless stretch, which 
 our old Ndorobo guide made longer by taking us a roundabout 
 course. Considering that he admitted his knowledge of the 
 country to be derived from a raiding expedition in which he 
 had taken part as a young man, which must have been, to 
 judge from his apparent age, from forty to fifty years ago, it 
 was not surprising that he should get a little out of his reckon- 
 ing in the night, especially as his eyesight seemed rather 
 defective. From the course we were steering in reference to 
 the position of the moon and my knowledge of the bearing of 
 Mount Nyiro, I suspected some error in the navigation. Un- 
 fortunately, our pilot, like natives in general, took no account 
 of the points of the compass ; and, knowing the winding routes 
 they adopt for various reasons (often sufficient ones), I refrained 
 from speaking to the man at the wheel — for I had learnt b\' 
 experience that to interfere may cause trouble. On discovering 
 his mistake, the old idiot smilingly explained that he had been 
 steering for the wrong hill, with as much unconcern as he had 
 shown in starting from the last camp without any warning to 
 us that it was a far cry to the next water. I found out now that 
 the information I had been given as to the distances on this route, 
 by the traveller I had met, were very misleading, and it proved, 
 in fact, that he had not himself reached this country at all. 
 
 ' This is a Masai or Ndorobo word, signifying open countr)', and is pronounced as 
 spelt here. " Angata," as it is often written, is wrong, being the coriupt Swahiii 
 pronunciation.
 
 92 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 Altogether, it took us a day and the greater part of the 
 night to traverse this stage. The porters got a good deal dis- 
 tressed, and we had at last to leave the loads and get on to the 
 water, which we reached just before dawn. It is not the first 
 time that I have welcomed the croaking of frogs in Central 
 Africa as the most delightful music, on approaching at length 
 the longed-for " stream in the desert." After a long, weary march 
 through waterless wilderness, how affectionately one regards the 
 " reeds and rushes " about the pool or spring in the parched 
 and thirsty land ! Here (Ongata Barta) were great herds of 
 oryx and Grant's gazelle^both the quantity of game and the 
 aspect of the country reminding me of the " high veldt " of the 
 Transvaal in the old days. From there to the foot of the 
 rugged mountain block called " Donyo le Nyiro," where is a 
 clear, strong, cold stream rushing over a rocky bed through a 
 deep gorge, is another long dry spell, rendered longer to us, 
 like the last (though the distance was in this case less formid- 
 able), by our old guide getting wrong in the night. 
 
 This proved a fruitless and wholly disappointing trip. 
 The country was open and dry, and quite devoid of elephants 
 at that time, as far as I went. Farther I did not feel able to 
 penetrate then, owing to our small supply of food. We failed 
 to get into communication with the natives (Sambur) living 
 in the mountain, as they were suspicious and did nothing but 
 run away from us, with their cattle, up into the fortresses, when 
 we tried to get near enough to shout to them. Consequently 
 we could get no information from them ; and as we had seen 
 some Wakamba at our previous camp, who had come from 
 this neighbourhood, the prospect was very poor of finding the 
 game we sought ; for those people, who live south of the Tana, 
 hunt in large parties, scouring the country for long distances, and, 
 wounding far more than they kill with their poisoned arrows, 
 drive the elephants out of the whole district. Moreover I was 
 anxious, now that I saw that this trip was a mistake, to stop my 
 food caravan (which I had left word at El Bogoi was to follow
 
 IV THE NDOROBO COUNTRY 93 
 
 me) from coming on ; so I only stayed two or three days before 
 retracing my steps towards my camp at the last-named place. 
 
 While at Nyiro I found an ostrich's nest, when out hunting 
 for meat, containing no less than twenty-eight eggs. It was 
 a great sell to find them hard sat upon. I shot the male bird, 
 but he was in poor plumage. On my return journey I had an 
 easy chance to shoot a magnificent bull eland, as he came 
 towards us, where we sat resting one day, attended by four 
 cows, and walked to within short range before finding out what 
 we were, the wind happening to be right. But as it was just 
 in the middle of our longest march, and we could not have 
 carried either the meat or his grand head, I refused to be 
 tempted to harm him, though my cook pleaded that his 
 department was out of fat. The game that I shot for meat 
 on this trip consisted of giraffe, zebra, oryx, and Grant's gazelle. 
 One male oryx which I shot had only one horn, giving it a 
 curious resemblance to the unicorn of heraldry. The other 
 must have been broken off at the base when it was young, as 
 the skin had grown right over the place. I kept the skull, 
 but unfortunately the scalp went bad, or it would have been 
 a curiosity when mounted. On getting near the Lorogi 
 mountains again I skirted along the foot of the range in hopes 
 of finding elephants, but there was no fresh spoor there then. 
 
 Thus by the time I once more reached El Bogoi I had 
 been two months away from my Laiju boma without bagging 
 a single elephant — a not very hopeful look-out, truly, for 
 paying the expenses of m)^ rather large caravan, which were 
 running on month after month, while the goods I had brought 
 from the coast in the hope of trading some ivory to help 
 towards covering its heavy cost were lying idle, and there 
 seemed no chance of doing anything with them. However, I 
 had at length come to a more favourable turning in my long 
 lane, and during the ensuing month I had a fair amount of 
 luck among the elephant in the district around El Bogoi. Of 
 this huntinir I will now endeavour to give some account.
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 
 
 Ndorobo elephant-hunter — His weapons — Mode of hunting — My next success — The 
 spell broken— An early start — A simple repast — Tracking elephants — The hunt 
 — A promise fulfilled — Cross the Seya River — A fall-trap — A gigantic beast — 
 My attendants — Food of elephants — Their appearance at close quarters — An 
 infuriated bull — Incredulous guides — A novel charm — Return to coast — The 
 Gwaso Nyiro River — Welcome at Laiju. 
 
 On getting back to my camp there, I was warmly welcomed 
 by my Ndorobo friends, who told me (of course) that there 
 had been no end of elephants in the neighbourhood during my 
 absence, and (which was more to the point) that some still 
 frequented the extensive jungle between there and the Seya 
 River. I was very sorry, though, to hear of the death, while I 
 was away, of one of the Ndorobo elephant-hunters whom I 
 had got to know well. He came by it in this wise. He had 
 gone out after some elephants ; and, getting near them, had 
 prepared for action by fixing a dart into the handle of his 
 harpoon. I should explain though, first, that, when after 
 elephants, an Ndorobo hunter carries a wooden harpoon handle 
 (fairly heavy) and a large quiver containing a number of darts 
 with iron heads as sharp as razors, the shafts of which fit into 
 the handle. The darts are smeared with the deadly poison 
 they obtain from a particular wood which grows in the 
 mountains, and each is carefully wrapped up in a thin strip of 
 skin prepared for the purpose. On getting near the game he 
 takes out two of these darts, removes the skin wrapping, and.
 
 NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 
 
 95 
 
 fixing one with the greatest nicety into the handle, carries it in 
 his right hand while the spare one he takes in his left. He 
 then enters the bush perfectly naked, having divested himself 
 of his skin cape, belt with hunting-knife ^ attached, and any- 
 thing else he may have about him, which he leaves together 
 with his quiver. Creeping stealthily up, through the thicket, to 
 within a few paces of the nearest elephant (or the one most 
 
 NDOROBO Hunters. 
 
 (From a I'hotograpli Ijy Dr. Kolb.) 
 
 favourably situated of those next him as he approaches up 
 wind), he delivers his blow with all his strength, and instant!)- 
 dives through the bush to avoid a possible charge. The 
 elephants having stampeded, he picks up his harpoon handle, 
 inserts hi.s spare dart, and follows up. The most deadly spot 
 to aim at with this weapon is the part of the stomach where 
 lie the small intestines, about the flank. In the present case 
 
 ' .\ kind of long, heav\-, spatula-sh;i])cd dagger, called a " simd," carried in a sheath.
 
 96 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AERICA ciiAr. v 
 
 my friend had gone in as described ; but not being able to get 
 up to within striking distance of his game at once, had sat 
 down to chew tobacco, putting his weapons down beside him. 
 In taking them up again as he rose, one of the excessively 
 sharp points scratched his leg, with the result that he was 
 unable to leave the spot and died right away. 
 
 Perhaps I cannot do better than quote the account of my 
 first success, after this long spell of bad luck, from my diary as 
 entered at the time. I had moved from my standing camp to 
 a temporary one near to the part of the bush where the 
 elephants were reported to be then. " Ndorobo elephant- 
 hunter came early and said a herd of elephants was in the 
 bush. I went with him soon after sunrise towards the foot of 
 the range, where dense bush extends with hardly any break 
 for miles. Before long w-e came on lots of quite fresh spoor ; 
 but, before following in the direction the elephants had taken, 
 we worked round to leeward, and then struck in. My guide 
 kept frequently taking up dust from the ground and letting it 
 trickle out of his fingers to test the air-currents, though for my 
 own part I prefer to be ' still plucking the grass to try where 
 sits the wind,' dry grass crumbled in the hand being more 
 sensitive to the slightest breath. We soon heard the elephants 
 making their curious sounds, and again came on warm spoor, 
 which we followed carefully. After following only a very 
 short way, the solemn intestinal rumblings were heard, which 
 so often give warning that the game is close ahead though still 
 hidden by the thick bush. I stole on (having left my surplus 
 followers), till the Ndorobo gave place to me to pass him. 
 The bush, though a dense thorny scrub, is cut up by the 
 elephants' paths into a check pattern. Rounding a corner I 
 came in view of three elephants only a few yards away standing 
 in a little bare space. The nearest (a large one) had its stern 
 to me, and seemed to be amusing itself by picking up dust to 
 throw over its back. Two others stood opposite, sideways on ; 
 one a small one with little ivory, the other a large fellow but
 
 H
 
 98 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 with only moderate tusks. The last was my mark. He 
 appeared to see me and turned his head a little towards me, 
 somewhat interfering wath the perfection of the shot afforded. 
 I did not like to wait more than a few seconds, though, lest 
 the chance should be lost, so let him have a bullet in the 
 temple in what seemed to me the right spot. He fell to the 
 shot, but rose at once, staggering and dizzy. I was ready for 
 him, and gave him the other barrel fthe others had fled;. He 
 did not fall again, but staggered about, very dazed and groggy. 
 I kept close by his side, and when he tried to move away gave 
 him a couple more shots in the region of the heart. He once 
 got my wind (I having incautiously gone on the wrong side of 
 himj and made a short spurt, I after him, losing my hat and 
 getting arms, face, and clothes torn by the thorns. I was 
 so close all the time I could have put the muzzle of my 
 rifle against him easily by moving a pace or two more ; and 
 no doubt that was why he could not see me, as I was behind 
 his line of sight, or he would have gone for me. But he could 
 not go far and soon pulled up again, seemingly at his last gasp. 
 He seemed once to try to come through a thick clump of 
 scrub for me ; but his strength appeared to fail, and he 
 subsided backwards into a quaint sitting posture, his hind legs 
 thrust forward on each side of his huge belly, his forelegs 
 straddled out in front, while his head was kept quite straight 
 upright by one tusk being against a small tree which was 
 between it and his trunk. One would not have known that he 
 was dead, only that now the curious rumbling noises he had 
 been making all the time had ceased. He was a big bull, but 
 his tusks were small (about 40 lbs. apiece)." 
 
 I was pleased to have, as it were, broken the spell and at 
 last killed an elephant again. Contrary to my usual custom 
 I did not follow the rest of the herd again that day, as I was 
 suffering from a touch of fever, and, having got the sun on my 
 head (very powerful in the scrub) when I lost my hat, felt 
 somewhat exhausted. My Ndorobo hunter was anxious to go
 
 V NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 99 
 
 and fetch his family to commence cutting up the meat. The 
 whole community of Ndorobos now shifted their quarters and 
 went and camped near the carcase, so that they might be near 
 their work ; and for several da}'s I could not get any of them 
 to go out hunting with me, so much taken up were they with 
 feasting and drying for future use strips of meat and even 
 pieces of the skin. For when pushed by hunger, as very 
 frequently happens, they are glad to fall back upon old bits of 
 elephant or rhinoceros hide, which they cook and eat. It is 
 
 
 " t)ne would not have known he was dead." 
 
 a curious sight to see a party of these people, men, women, and 
 children, swarming around, upon, and inside the carcase of an 
 elephant, like ants with a big beetle, fairly wallowing in gore 
 and thoroughly enjoying themselves. 
 
 I was not myself averse to a couple of days' spell, having 
 fever on me ; for though I am so thoroughly salted, from many 
 bygone encounters with this enemy of African travellers during 
 long years of wandering in unhealthy regions, as to be so far 
 fever-proof that I am never laid up or incapacitated for any 
 needful exertion, I still feel the attacks to the extent of their
 
 loo ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 affecting my comfort and buoyancy, and upsetting the nerves, 
 thus interfering with one's shooting. But I soon got tired of 
 taking it easy, though I amused myself with my Httle .250 rook 
 rifle (a much handier weapon in Africa than a shot-gun) by 
 shooting pigeons which congregated in the trees every afternoon 
 to drink at the pool where we got our water. These made a 
 pleasant \ariety to one's bill of fare too, either in a stew with 
 elephant's heart, which I dignified by the name of " pigeon pie," 
 or roasted on a stick ; in the latter way, with a piece of 
 elephant's fat skewered over them, they are excellent. Butter- 
 flies, the search for which is a great resource at odd times as 
 well as on the march, were at this time almost absent here. So 
 on the third day I went out with only my gunbearers, the 
 Xdorobo being still immovable. I took a round in a direction I 
 thought it likely the elephants might have retired in, and climbed 
 a high koppie to get a view over the country. Sitting on the 
 top with my glasses, I was able to get a glimpse of two or 
 three elephants some miles away in a valley close under the 
 hills, as they passed through a small open space at its mouth. 
 However, my luck did not bear me out in spite of this good 
 beginning ; for the wind was most perverse, and though I 
 ev'entually did get a glimpse of one's head, as it was almost a 
 front view the chance was a poor one, and my shot had perhaps 
 better not have been fired, as it did no good and I failed to get 
 up to the elephants again. My experience is that a shot in the 
 head, though it may not touch the brain, will almost always 
 stun a cow, thus giving one time for another shot as she rises ; 
 but a big bull is not so easily felled, his massive skull resisting 
 the force of the blow better, nor is his brain so easily reached. 
 In this dense scrub, however, one had to make the most of such 
 glimpses as one could get, though, as I became more at home 
 in it, I found it possible to manoeuvre close up to the elephants 
 and get better shots than I dare attempt before. 
 
 The following day I was off before sunrise. My hunter 
 had not yet turned up again, so I first went to seek him at his
 
 NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 
 
 new camp. I found another Ndorobo clan (also friends of mine) 
 had just come to make their encampment close by, in order to be 
 handy for future feasts should I have further successes in hunt- 
 ing. Not finding my man, I took a couple of young volunteers 
 along with me. We struck right through the bush to a point 
 at the foot of the hills beyond where I had found the day 
 before, in order that we might cut the spoor should the herd 
 have trekked. We found no track, however, and walked back 
 along the base of the hills towards the valley above mentioned. 
 On getting near it, we came upon plenty of quite fresh spoor where 
 the elephants had been feeding that morning. Having brought 
 it up to the little swampy spring where they had drunk, I sat 
 down to have a bit of a spell, as it was by this time noon, and 
 eat a snack by way of lunch, I never carry anything that 
 could be called a meal, but something just to spoil one's 
 appetite ; something sweet I find the best for the purpose, such 
 as a few raisins or a bit of chocolate with a few fragments of 
 biscuit, washed down with a drink of water. 
 
 Meanwhile I sent out my natives to find out which way 
 the elephants had gone from there. I knew by this time they 
 would be taking their mid-day siesta and must be standing 
 somewhere in the bush not far off; and, sure enough, by the 
 time I had finished my little repast, my scouts came running 
 back to say they heard the elephants in the scrub quite 
 near. I cautiously made off in the direction, the wind being 
 right and, fortunately, steadier to-day, though gusty with lulls. 
 My Ndorobo climbed a tree and saw a little bunch, and, having 
 pointed out to me where they were, stayed behind and I crept 
 on alone. With cat-like steps I advanced, caught a glimpse 
 of one through the bush, and approached without making 
 a sound or being seen to within ten yards of the nearest 
 one, a large cow, of which I then suddenly, for the first 
 time, came in full view, facing me. She also saw me, 
 but apparently could not make out what I was, though 
 she looked attentively and suspiciously at me. I always
 
 I02 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 wear clothes of a reddish-brown colour — often using a decoc- 
 tion of mimosa bark to stain them if too light- — -thus re- 
 sembling the colour of many tree trunks ; and when standing 
 motionless (the wind being favourable) I think an elephant 
 takes one, so disguised, for a dry stump. I waited anxiously 
 for her to give me a chance, at the same time noticing that two 
 or three others, which I could see indistinctly behind her, 
 seemed all smaller ; so that, though my vis-a-vis' tusks were not 
 large, I decided she must be my victim. She once or twice 
 offered to approach me, and once actually came, head up, ears 
 stretched out, to within five or six yards at most. I stood firm, 
 having inwardly sworn not to spoil this chance by hurried or 
 nervous shooting, and ready, should she come right on, to give 
 her a shot in the chest and jump aside, though my object in 
 waiting was the hope of getting a chance for a temple shot, 
 knowing- that if I succeeded in that, dropping her dead on the 
 spot (as can only be done by a shot in the brain), the others 
 might probably stand and give me a chance with my second 
 barrel. She, however, hesitated, her courage seeming to fail her 
 at the last moment, or she was not sure what I was ; anyway 
 she backed away again and I ventured, in spite of crackling 
 twigs, to go a step or two nearer. 
 
 The breeze there had been as I came up to them had died 
 entirely away, and there was a dead calm, with a suspicion of 
 eddies the wrong way. The elephants felt for scent with their 
 trunks, and suddenly turned and ran the other way. I was 
 after them instantly ; and, as my cow was the last and they 
 only got slowly through the jungle at first, in a few strides I 
 was within a few yards of her stern, meaning to give her a 
 shot in that quarter and try at least to cripple her. But 
 before I could do so she suddenly rounded on me with a 
 scream, having clearly heard me following and meaning to 
 charge. But before she was well round I had put a bullet in 
 her temple, which felled her, to my great relief and joy. As 
 she struggled on the ground I gave her the other barrel in her
 
 V NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 103 
 
 head again, and then, as she still thumped her head about, 
 screaming loudly, I shot her in the chest, the bullet penetrating 
 her heart and finishing her. Following the others, which 
 seemed to have lost their leader and ran about backwards and 
 forwards, standing at short intervals, I sighted them two or 
 three times, but could not get a shot. They were all small 
 females with thin tusks, but I did not then know there were 
 any more near, so was bound to try and score all I could. 
 Shortly after, I got sight of two of them standing, and, the 
 breeze being just then favourable, I got up, waited till one 
 turned her head right, and dropped her. Going on again, 
 Juma (one of my men) spotted another from a tree I had sent 
 him up. I got close up and found there were three or four 
 standing together, larger than the others, and which had 
 evidently not been disturbed. Opposite me again was a cow, 
 similar to the first I had shot, with a calf by her. The calf 
 saw me, but I heeded it not nor its mother, having caught 
 sight of a much larger tusk than she possessed behind a thick 
 clump of scrub to the right, only a few yards from where I 
 stood. Determined to try for this fellow at all hazards, I 
 moved round this clump of wattles. As I came in view he 
 swung round preparatory to decamping. But I was too quick 
 for him, and as his head went round from me I plugged him 
 right in the ear, dropping him dead on the spot. He was a 
 small bull, very short in stature, but with nice teeth. 
 
 I now went back to the small elephant to get some water, 
 and foolishly stayed some time while more was fetched for the 
 men. This delay, I think, certainly cost me at least another 
 elephant. When I did follow up again, leaving Juma to get 
 out the fat, etc., on coming over a rise we saw the whole herd 
 (perhaps thirty strong, but apparently all cows) going up the 
 other side of a little valley in front of us, some 300 or 400 
 yards ahead. I doubled after them — an open glade here 
 allowing it, — but, on topping the next rise, they were already 
 disappearing over another, getting away from us at a run.
 
 I04 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 Two were, however, behind, and had not yet crossed the gully, 
 so I ran down to try to cut them off; but they put on a spurt 
 and I only managed to get a stern shot at one. Being above 
 her the bullet caught her in the back (as it afterwards turned 
 out), and told loudly ; but they went off, and we had to give 
 up the chase, as it was getting late. This cow was, however, 
 found a few days after by some Ndorobos, and I got the ivory 
 all right. 
 
 On starting back for camp I sent one of my young 
 Ndorobo companions to call the two headmen of their clans, 
 and on reaching camp, about sundown, they met me. There 
 being heaps of meat in the wind they made no delay or excuses. 
 I am bound to say, though, that these people are far more 
 reliable, as a rule, than most Central African savages. On 
 giving them leave to take possession of the elephants (ap- 
 portioning each tribe its share, to prevent any quarrelling), I 
 told them they must bring me some honey. This they 
 promised to do as soon as they had eaten the elephants. They 
 fulfilled their promise loyally later on, bringing me a liberal 
 supply of the most beautifully clear, luscious honey. I find 
 that honey is almost a necessity in the " bara." It is the only 
 sweet thing one gets, for sugar one cannot carry sufficient of to 
 last ; and when living on nothing but the simplest and coarsest 
 food with meat, one has a craving for something sweet and 
 does not feel satisfied or strong without it. The Ndorobos 
 depend largely on it, especially for their children. It is a 
 wonderful country for flowers, and seldom dries up near the 
 Lorogi owing to the frequent mountain showers ; and bees in 
 consequence thrive and accumulate great stores. I found a 
 kind of wild fruit or bean (something like acorns), which the 
 natives eat, very good when thoroughly boiled and eaten with 
 honey, and it was a great stand-by while I was in that part. 
 My poor old Xdorobo follower whom I called " Papa " had 
 cut his hand while cutting up the elephant shot previously, 
 and the meat, being somewhat high, had poisoned his blood
 
 V NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 105 
 
 and quite spoilt the old chap's pleasure during these times of 
 plenty, and he eventually lost half the wounded finger. 
 
 These were great times with the Ndorobos of the whole 
 country-side. They all camped in the vicinity and in a few 
 days got quite sleek and fat, so that 1 could hardly recognise 
 my recently starved -looking neighbours. As, however, they 
 had overrun the elephants' favourite haunts, there seemed no 
 chance of more luck for me thereabouts for a time ; so I de- 
 termined to move a little farther off again. I was sorry to 
 leave my pleasant camp at El Bogoi, with its pure little stream 
 of water and shady tree with a canopy of creepers under which 
 I could sit and rest in the cool. I was pretty hard worked 
 there though, for game had to be sought a considerable distance 
 away to keep up the supply of meat, as my men had not yet 
 overcome the stupid Swahili prejudice against eating elephant 
 meat, though they did eventually when they got nothing else. 
 I was much inclined to move up on to the Lorogi range, where 
 there are extensive forests of the kind called by the Ndorobos 
 " Subugo " (a name applied to all similar high, damp forest 
 tracts), and several times told my native friends I wanted them 
 to guide me there. They did not refuse, but always tried to 
 dissuade me and evidently disliked the idea, their principal 
 objections being the cold and wet. One headman and 
 particular friend of mine expressed the hardship he would think 
 it to have to go there, by asking—" If I had a donkey " (he 
 did not add " what wouldn't go ") " would I take him to the 
 Subugo ? " So, as during the whole of my stay in the district 
 the mountains were almost continually enveloped in cloud, I 
 concluded their advice was good ; for not only would the 
 climate be extremely unpleasant, but the elephants only 
 frequent these cool, swampy forests when, through drought, 
 water is very scarce elsewhere. Moreover, I had already made 
 one mistake, against their advice, in going to Nyiro mountain. 
 I therefore only went across the Leseya (or Seya) River (one 
 day's march) ; and I did but little good there, only once finding
 
 io6 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 any elephants, on which occasion I came across four cows, 
 three of which I killed. While there I was very nearly caught 
 in one of the fall-traps we frequently came across in that part 
 (the El Bogoi Ndorobos never set therh). I was walking along 
 a path, with my eyes on a spoor which led in that direction, 
 when suddenly my forehead came in contact with a cord 
 stretched across it, and, looking up, I saw the murderous 
 harpoon in its heavy shaft hanging right above my head. 
 Luckily the owners do not set them " tickle," lest the wind 
 should set them off, and I had not pressed the string hard 
 enough to release the impending javelin. 
 
 The little river Seya, which drains the Lorogi range, afforded 
 clear proof of the quantity of rain that was falling on the tops, 
 being very full all the time. It is curious that none of the 
 water from all the country north of the Jambeni hills finds its 
 way to the sea, but is poured into swamps or lakes, with no 
 outlet. The Seya runs into such a swamp, near the Matthews 
 range, called El Gereh. 
 
 I had a fair amount of success during the whole of this 
 month ; but it would be tedious were I to recount all the 
 details of everj^ day's hunt. I will, however, add the particulars 
 of the killing of one or two of my big bulls ; for I was lucky 
 enough to get several fine old fellows with heavy tusks. I was 
 back again in the neighbourhood of El Bogoi, the two headmen 
 of that district (my particular friends) having come after me to 
 report that another large herd had appeared ; and as I had had 
 but indifferent success where I had gone after leaving there, I 
 was ready to go with them at once. The first day I was un- 
 successful, getting only an indifferent chance and failing to bag 
 the elephant I shot at, though, oddly enough, I killed the same 
 one on a subsequent occasion. 
 
 I was having my early breakfast the morning after this 
 disappointing day, when three Ndorobo lads came to say one 
 of them had heard elephants quite near. I got ready at once 
 and went with them ; and we had only gone a comparatively
 
 V NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 107 
 
 short way from my temporary camp (which was then right 
 under the mountain, in a Httle open valley, the wide expanse 
 of scrub stretching away in all directions below) when we heard 
 the elephants. The breeze being happily favourable for once, 
 I got up close without much difficulty, and made out two or 
 three enormous bulls standing together. One faced me, 
 another, whose tusks (from the glimpse I got) seemed as good, 
 stood broadside on. By great good luck I could see the 
 vulnerable part of his ribs, just behind his shoulder, through a 
 little opening among the leaves, etc., and was able to get a 
 shot by kneeling. Following, as they disappeared instantly 
 after I fired, there was just a colour of blood (a very spot or 
 two only) ; and, though I felt positive my aim had been true, 
 I began to fear another failure. But, just after, he was heard 
 ahead, and a little way on we came up to him standing in a little 
 bare place. I gave him two more shots and he toppled over. 
 Rushing up, we cut off his tail, and I had just brushed past 
 his hind legs and pointed out my first shot (right over 
 the heart), when he got on to his legs again and we cleared 
 out of his way sharp. Getting the " cripple-stopper," I gave 
 him a couple more shots, but they were unnecessary ; for, 
 though so huge a beast takes some time to die from a tiny 
 pellet of a bullet, he could not move away from where he 
 stood, and, after swaying and tottering some time, he fell 
 over again with a great crash, fairly bounding up again on 
 to his stern, like a ship going down with its bows in the 
 air ; sitting up, as it were, for a moment, his huge head and 
 tusks aloft, before collapsing to rise no more. A truly gigantic 
 beast ! What a little pop-gun my rifle appeared to such 
 monsters. The skin of his back was like the bark of some 
 great tree : all hard, scaly lumps, as is that of a big old 
 crocodile. I measured him as accurately as I could and cop\' 
 the entry as follows :—" He measured fully 10 feet 8 or 9 
 inches high at shoulder by tape ; 14 feet long from root of 
 trunk to root of tail ; circumference of fore foot 5 feet; his body
 
 io8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 5 feet 6 inches deep, from ground to highest part of side as he 
 lay." ^ His tusks were massive but not very long Tthey weighed 
 between 70 and 80 lbs. apiece), — a well-earned reward for 
 much hard work. I followed the others (five or six mon.sters) 
 and got near them once more, but the wind again baulked me, 
 and I had to be satisfied for that da)\ 
 
 The following day I did not hunt, but went early to get 
 the tusks of the bull out and carried to camp. I often here 
 left them for some days, when they would come out quite 
 easily without chopping ; but, as I intended leaving soon, I 
 chopped these out at once. Though it was still quite early, 
 the Ndorobos had already cut up the whole of the upper half 
 of the huge mass. They were swarming all around ; the bush 
 was full of them and covered with meat cut into strips or piled 
 in junks. They had made fires all about ; and eating and 
 work were going on everywhere. The next day's hunt is the 
 last of which I shall, at present, give a description ; for any one 
 who may have had sufficient endurance to follow my prowlings 
 in the bush so far, must by this time have had enough of 
 elephant-hunting for a while. 
 
 I was off again, then, at dawn as usual, with two Xdorobo 
 youths as well as, of course, my usual attendants. The latter 
 are three : " Squareface," my principal gun-bearer, who carries 
 the double .577 ; Juma, the .second ditto, carrying the "cripple- 
 stopper," and " Smiler " (properly Ismail or Ishmael), with an 
 axe and sundry other trifles. The last I always leave some 
 distance behind when approaching game, as well as any surplus 
 natives, and when going right up to my shot, the others wait too 
 until I fire. On the way towards the Bogoi valley we found fresh 
 spoor, and the rolls of chewed fibre the elephants are always 
 spitting out when on the feed. That is to say, such is their 
 habit in this part of the country, where their chief food is the 
 plant called " mkongi " by the Swahili. Being, unfortunately, 
 
 1 This was immediately after death and before he had become distended by the 
 gases generated in the stomach.
 
 V NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 109 
 
 no botanist, I do not know what it really is ; but I call it 
 vegetable bayonets. It is just like a bunch of green bayonets 
 springing out of the ground, with points as sharp as real ones 
 and capable of giving most painful wounds to any one who 
 unwarily runs against one slanting towards him. The bush is 
 full of this plant, and the elephants chew it and reject the fibre ; 
 consequently the ground in their haunts is often strewn with it, 
 more or less dry according to the time that has elapsed since 
 its juice was partaken of. When it is green and moist, and 
 smells quite sweet, it is freshly chewed ; after a little exposure 
 it gets sour. The fibre of this plant is very strong, and makes 
 excellent cord or rope. I have often thought that it might be 
 turned to profitable account in places where it grows in great 
 profusion near enough to the coast, as, for instance, on the 
 Sabaki River. 
 
 On reaching the edge of the broad, nearly level vallej-, we 
 ascended a little prominence to get a view over it. A good 
 deal of this scrub is not very high, so that if one can get on to 
 a rise, or even sometimes into a tall tree (though such are not 
 many in this kind of cover), and look down upon the jungle, it 
 is often possible to see the tops of elephants' heads and backs, 
 which the owners make more conspicuous by throwing dust 
 from the red ground over them. Sometimes, even though the 
 animals themselves may be invisible, a little cloud of red dust 
 may every now and then be seen, like a puff of smoke, issuing 
 from the bush. In the present instance we were inspired with 
 hope by making out the raddled heads and slowly flapping 
 enormous ears of two big bulls in the jungle across b}' the valley. 
 Worming our way down through the dense thicket, we crossed 
 the little stream and followed up a little dry gully on the other 
 side, near which, farther up, one of the elephants (they were 
 some distance apart) was standing. I got up to him beautifully, 
 without his knowing of my approach, as he stood fanning 
 himself with his windmill sails, as is their wont when resting. 
 I got a nice shot at his side at close quarters ; but, owing to
 
 1 1 o ELEPHA NT-HUNTING IN EA ST A ERICA chap. 
 
 only a bit of him being visible and the necessity of making the 
 best of such chances as it is possible to get in such thick cover, 
 I was not able to put the bullet quite so close up behind the 
 shoulder as it should be for an ideal shot. For an elephant's 
 stomach seems to me to come farther forward towards his chest 
 cavity than does that of most animals ; so that, if the shot is a 
 trifle too far back, not only the heart but the lungs may be 
 easily missed. However, I felt sure this was not so far aft as 
 to allow the latter organs to escape. The grunt he gave also 
 sounded confirmatory of my belief, and this was borne out by 
 a little frothy blood on his retreating spoor. Feeling that he 
 was sure to succumb soon to this wound, and being anxious to 
 go after the second bull ''both were huge beasts), I did not 
 follow the spoor of the wounded one beyond a few steps, but, 
 leaving him to be sought for afterwards, turned my attention to 
 his mate. I may add that I did recover him all right, though 
 not that day. He was found dead by my Ndorobo friends not 
 far from my camp, straight towards which he had, curiously 
 enough, made. He had only one tusk. Single tusks are 
 commonly reported to be usually very large ; but this was no 
 heavier than an ordinary large bull's tooth (weighing 75 lbs.). 
 I examined the skull, and found he never had a second, as 
 there was no socket on the other side. 
 
 But to come back to my day's hunt. My Ndorobo lads 
 were very lukewarm and disinclined to go on, their hearts being 
 with the meat at their kraals ; and, finding the other bull had 
 moved on, it was not without some persuasion that I got them 
 to go on, though I was determined to follow, whether or no. 
 However, they came, and I was glad of it, as they were useful, 
 knowing the country intimately and being somewhat better 
 spoorers and much quicker of hearing (an important qualifica- 
 tion) than my own men. On catching the faintest sound of an 
 elephant blowing, or a slight rustling of branches, they will at 
 once fix the exact place whence the sound, very likely inaudible 
 to other ears, proceeds. The second bull had gone over the
 
 NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 
 
 rise bordering the valley on the north, and, on reaching the top, 
 we turned off a little to the right of the spoor to ascend a small 
 koppie. The bush was here too tall and leafy to allow of 
 anything being seen ; but, after listening a little while, my 
 Ndorobo companions heard him. Being too near the wind, we 
 made back and came cautiously up it, after a circuit to the 
 left, instead of following the spoor again. Having arrived near 
 the spot where he had been heard, we waited again for another 
 sign, and so long was it without his making a sound, that we 
 almost came to the conclusion he must have winded us when 
 on the koppie and gone on ; but I persisted in proceeding with 
 the greatest care until we should again cut his spoor, and before 
 we had advanced many steps farther we all heard him blow- 
 distinctly quite close ahead. Motioning my attendants to 
 remain there, I picked my steps gingerly on, intensely on the 
 look-out, but could not see him until I got within a very short 
 distance, when a little open track in the bush showed me his 
 huge hind-quarters towards me. This being the only opening 
 to leeward, I came up behind him, and stood within a distance 
 I had time to deliberately calculate to be no more than five 
 paces from his tail. To the right I dared not go, on account of 
 the wind ; to the left the jungle was dense. There was nothing 
 for it but to wait. 
 
 Now there is a curious contrast in the aspect at close 
 quarters presented respectively by the two ends of an elephant, 
 apart from the obvious difference in the moral effect on the 
 hunter according to which extremity is towards him. When 
 viewed from the rear there is a comically clownish, baggy- 
 breeched, knock-kneed look about his drooping hinder parts ; 
 while a front view of his majestic head, armed with gleaming 
 tusks and furnished with a far-reaching supple trunk, and set 
 off by the grotesque great ears, outstretched as if to catch any 
 suspicious sound — all raised aloft on colossal fore quarters, so 
 that the top of his massive forehead may be not less than 
 I I feet from the ground — is as singularly impressive and
 
 112 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 awe-inspiring. I had now an opportunity of observing these 
 two effects. The wind died away as I waited, hoping he 
 would move of his own accord so as to give me a chance to 
 shoot. I silently plucked a bit of grass ; the fragments floated 
 down with a tendency very near his direction. Sure enough 
 just after he got a whiff; for he suddenly moved forward three 
 or four yards across a little bare space ahead of him, wheeled 
 round and stood facing diagonally half towards me, his head up, 
 trunk raised and ears out, all on the alert, the opposite of his 
 previous sleepy attitude. I knew he would be off now, so 
 instantly aimed at his chest, in front of his left shoulder, which 
 was towards me, and pulled both triggers together. I had 
 made up my mind to try this the next chance I got at one 
 of these huge bulls, after failing to stop the one that morning. 
 The gun gave me a smart kick in the face, but the elephant 
 went oft' with very suggestive grunts and I felt I had given 
 him a good shot. Following his track, we found a good deal 
 of blood spattered about, and a very short way on one of my 
 Xdorobo lads (who had come up with my gun-bearers after 
 the shot) started to run for it, a sure sign he had caught sight 
 of our elephant. 
 
 Advancing cautiously, I found him (the elephant) stand- 
 ing in a fairly open bit of straight path. His position 
 being just what it had been (as regards mej when I first 
 fired at him, I gave him another similar shot, though only 
 one barrel this time. He did not move, except to slue a 
 little more directly facing me. I was considering whether to 
 give him the left barrel in his eye, his head being a little 
 inclined to one side, and for that purpose took another step 
 forward, when — this movement of mine having no doubt 
 enabled him to make me out — he suddenly rushed at me. 
 As there were not more than ten yards between us and he 
 came straight for me at a quick run, there was no time for 
 hesitation. There was luckily a little opening to my right ; 
 into this I slipped, crouching to be less readily noticed.
 
 V NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 113 
 
 " Squareface " was just behind me, and the elephant charged 
 past me after him Hke a locomotive. He followed my ex- 
 ample and dodged to one side into the bush, leaving Juma, 
 who was clad in raiment " by way of being " white, in full view 
 just in front of the enraged beast. (I never had to complain 
 of my gun-carriers decamping in moments of emergency, as 
 one so often hears travellers say their men do ; on the con- 
 trary, I had oftener to reprove them for persisting in sticking 
 close behind me, when I wanted to go on alone.) Juma, it 
 afterwards turned out, foolishly ran straight along the path we 
 had approached by, the bull within a few yards of him ; but 
 instantly the latter passed my retreat, I, having an eye over 
 my shoulder and being only two or three yards off, had swung 
 round and given him my left barrel in his ribs before he had 
 got many yards beyond me. This, it would seem, changed 
 his mind, or else his powers were becoming exhausted, for 
 he turned back and retreated to a little farther than where 
 he had stood before. 
 
 My men now came back to me, and I made Juma climb 
 a little tree. He saw the bull, only some thirty yards off, 
 standing in the jungle. I felt I must do something, but 
 did not think myself bound to advance hurriedly upon him 
 again in his present frame of mind, being sure he was dying. 
 So I climbed the tree, in spite of thorns ; but these were 
 straight, and, being so much accustomed to the villainous 
 hooked kind, one gets to despise such as comparatively harm- 
 less. Getting near its slender top, I could see the elephant 
 staggering ; and, while I looked, his hind legs gave ; he 
 backed into the curious sitting posture they often fall into 
 when about to collapse ; his head went up, and, throwing 
 his trunk into the air, as it were in sign of defeat, he went 
 over with a crash, and, after a io.^ struggles, lay still. 
 Going cautiously up, I found him dead. Another massive 
 beast, hardly so colossal as the last, but with rather heavier 
 ivory (84 lbs. and 70 lbs.). His back was not so rough as 
 
 I
 
 114 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chai-. 
 
 that of the other, and he was fatter ; perhaps a somewhat 
 younger animal. My three bullet-holes formed a triangle on 
 his chest ; two went through the heart. 
 
 By this time I and these artless Xdorobo savages had 
 become fast friends, as was natural under the circumstances. 
 We were mutually useful to each other ; they showed me 
 where to find elephants, and, when I killed any, they grew fat 
 on the meat, and laid up stores of dried strips of flesh and of 
 fat boiled out of the bones. Superstitious, like all Africans, it 
 is not to be wondered at that they gave me credit for possess- 
 ing something in the nature of magic, to aid me in the chase. 
 I think my field-glasses may have added to the impression. I 
 remember one day in particular, when, accompanied by two 
 of them, I had made a long round over the foot-hills of the 
 Lorogis, near where the Seya River comes through the southern 
 extremity of the range, and, having failed to find any fresh 
 indications of the presence of elephants in the neighbourhood, 
 we were just about to give up the quest. Standing on a spur 
 of the mountain, I was scanning the wide expanse of jungle, 
 that stretched below us, with my glasses, when, by the greatest 
 luck, I happened to catch a glimpse of some reddish objects, 
 passing a slight gap among the trees, a couple of miles away. 
 I knew these could be nothing but dusted elephants. No one 
 else had seen them, and I could tell by their manner that my 
 guides of the day, who had not hunted with me before, were 
 incredulous. On reaching the part where I had seen the 
 elephants, we could at first find no signs ; and their smiles 
 plainly told that the Ndorobos did not believe there were 
 any in the neighbourhood. But I was confident I had not 
 been mistaken, and determined to persevere. We had not 
 gone quite far enough, it proved, and a little more search 
 brought us to their fresh spoor in the dusty soil. The 
 change in my friends' demeanour was marked, and as that 
 was the occasion (already casually referred to) when I killed 
 three, the feasting which ensued served to impress the inci-
 
 V NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 115 
 
 dent on their memories and establish their confidence in my 
 powers. 
 
 Among those of El Bogoi, Lesiat was the leading man 
 and my especial confederate. I think an Ndorobo becomes 
 the head of a community by being a slayer of elephants, etc., 
 his following increasing in proportion to his success in the 
 chase. 
 
 Lesiat had for long been bothering me to give him a 
 charm to increase his power in this pursuit. My assurances 
 that I had no such occult powers merely made him the more 
 importunate. He regarded my objections as a refusal to help 
 him, and a proof of unfriendliness to him. When I was about 
 to leave he became more pressing, promised to keep ivory for 
 me against my return, as an acknowledgment, should I 
 consent, and assumed a hurt air at what he regarded as my 
 unkind obstinacy. Squareface interceded for him, explaining 
 to me that Swahilis always accede to such requests, the most 
 approved charm being a verse of the Koran, written in Arabic 
 on a slip of paper. Not wishing to appear unfeeling, and 
 seeing that no harm could come of it at all events, it occurred 
 to me that a line or two of Shakespeare would probably be 
 quite as effective. Bearing in mind that the Ndorobo hunter 
 owes his success — when he has any — mainly to the powerful 
 poison with which his weapon is smeared, if he can only 
 manage to introduce it, in the proper manner, into the animal's 
 economy, it struck me that the following quotation would be 
 appropriate ; and I accordingly wrote it on a slip of paper, 
 illustrating it with a little sketch of an elephant : — 
 
 I bought an unction of a mountebank, 
 So mortal that, but dip a knife in it. 
 Where it draws Ijlood no cataplasm so rare, 
 Collected from all simples that have virtue 
 Under the moon, can sa\e the thing- from death 
 That is but scratched withal ; I'll touch my point 
 With this contagion, that, if I gall him slightly. 
 It may be death.
 
 ii6 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 In presenting this to Lesiat, I impressed upon him that 
 the most I could hope to do was to give more power to his 
 elbow. I disclaimed all pretensions to make an elephant- 
 slayer of a duffer. Confidence, I told him, was the main thing, 
 and particularly enjoined upon him the importance of getting 
 close before striking. On my starting for the coast, we parted 
 with mutual expressions of goodwill, and he most earnestly 
 wished me God-speed and a safe return. 
 
 The men I had sent for, to Laiju, had not returned by the 
 time I wanted to start, and I had to send fresh messengers 
 after them. In the meantime we moved the ivory, etc., across 
 the Seya, making several journeys, and camped at a large rock 
 pool. We were nearly out of meal, and depending on meat 
 alone for food, so the non- arrival of the expected porters 
 caused me some anxiety. I had just made provision for some 
 time by shooting two rhinos one morning, when the men 
 arrived. They brought bad news. On the return journey of 
 the party which had brought my last supply of meal, its 
 members had disregarded my instructions, which were, first, 
 to keep together, and secondly, to avoid passing through 
 Embe, unless escorted by some of my Mthara friends — for I 
 distrusted the natives of the former district. They had, instead, 
 made a short cut over the hills, leaving Mthara to the right, 
 had straggled about in twos and threes — or even one man 
 alone — with the result that four had been murdered. The 
 Embe people seemed to have imagined that some disaster 
 must have overtaken us, that I was dead, and that these 
 scattered remnants of the caravan — as they supposed them — 
 would be an easy prey. This was a sad damper to my spirits, 
 and I felt that I had a difficult and distasteful task imposed 
 on me by this misfortune : come what might, it would be my 
 duty to endeavour to avenge the murder of my men before 
 returning to the coast. As for their companions, their grief 
 was short-lived. When a comrade is killed, porters are 
 dismayed at first, and appear overcome with dejection. The
 
 V NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 117 
 
 day after, they regain their spirits, and the camp is as cheerful 
 as ever. " Amri ya Muungu " (It is God's will). 
 
 Leaving our up route far to the left, we made for the 
 Gwaso Nyiro River, and followed it down for several days, till 
 we reached where we had first struck it before. But I thought 
 it advisable to cross higher up, as we were getting heavy rain 
 nearly every afternoon or night, and I feared it might rise. It 
 is always pleasant travelling along the banks of a river, and 
 there are some particularly pretty bits on this one. One 
 generally finds a shady grove to camp in on the banks ; and 
 an unlimited supply of fresh, running water is such a comfort. 
 Game, too, is seldom scarce, and I was able to keep up the 
 meat-supply pretty regularly. I saw one marvellous herd of 
 giraffe, covering, in scattered formation, a whole ridge ; I also 
 noticed some fifteen eland in a troop (a rare sight since the 
 cattle plague), and other game was pretty plentiful. Lions 
 were often heard at night, but I never came across any. 
 Speaking of giraffe, I saw one day what I had never before 
 had the opportunity of observing in all my experience, whether 
 in South or Central Africa ; namely, several lying down. I 
 had a good view of the herd through my glasses, and saw two 
 of them get up. The last I watched for some time lying, 
 before it rose, and distinctly saw it get upon its legs — first on 
 to its knees, then its hind-quarters rose, and lastly its fore legs 
 were made erect. I think this must be an uncommon sight, 
 in the case of wild giraffes, because the natives with whom I 
 have hunted them in South-East Africa declare that they never 
 do lie down, and have a fiction that a giraffe sleeps standing, 
 with its head in the fork of a tree. This attitude of repose I 
 have certainly never seen ; but I have noticed, when a herd is 
 resting on an open ridge in the heat of the day, some of them 
 standing drowsily with their heads lowered, the long necks 
 bent over like a bow. I am told that in the " Zoo " they lie 
 down every night ; but then they know they are safe from 
 lions there. It was on the banks of the Gwaso Nyiro, during
 
 ii8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 this journey, that I shot my record impala head, of which a 
 
 figure is given from a photograph. 
 
 One or two rhinos that I shot for meat on this journey w^ere 
 
 in poor condition. Papa said it was because of the rain : 
 
 probably he was right. I daresay wet weather makes them 
 
 lean, as it does wild 
 pigs. In a part of 
 Swaziland where 
 wild pigs used to be 
 numerous, the Swazis 
 always accounted for 
 their being fat only 
 during the dry winter 
 there, by saying that 
 the fright, caused by 
 the thunder accom- 
 panying the summer 
 rains, made them thin. 
 Through crossing 
 the river high up we 
 'J|l' got sooner among 
 
 the lava (which has 
 run down from Kenia 
 and Jambeni thus far, 
 
 The Record Pallah Horns. ^^^^i'^ ^here is none 
 
 {Aipyceros meiampus.) ox\ the north bank), 
 
 Length of horns on front curve 28 in. and had the rOUgh 
 
 Qj^jj^ ^!li " ridges of its broken- 
 
 up streams to cross, 
 with wide plains of lava shingle between. 
 
 Here, as I have noted in other parts, alternate green and 
 dry belts were crossed ; the storms following particular lines 
 and painting the country in streaks. But on rounding the 
 point of the Jambeni Range it became apparent that a much 
 wetter climate had been suddenly reached. The sodden ground
 
 V NDOROBO ELEPHANT-HUNTING 119 
 
 and verdant vegetation proved much rain to have fallen, and 
 the heavy and frequent showers made the shelter of our huts 
 at the Laiju " boma " welcome. Cloudy nights had been in- 
 convenient, too, in another way. My watch had gone wrong 
 ever since I had been so foolish as to exhibit its works to some 
 natives in Embe, and I had to time my getting up by the stars. 
 When they were invisible I could only guess, and sometimes I 
 made a bad shot and called the safari too soon, with uncomfort- 
 able results. These were the early or lesser rains, — always to 
 be expected about that time of year. We entered the " boma " 
 on 15 th November, and were accorded an enthusiastic recep- 
 tion, with much drumming and many congratulations, by those 
 in charsre.
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 RETURN TO MOMBASA 
 
 My new Lee-Metford — Advantage of solid bullet — Observations on rhinos — A white 
 companion — Bag a " Roi rhebok "• — A punitive expedition — A land of plenty 
 — Our Christmas camp — Tribes round Mount Kenia — A playful escapade — 
 Stung by hornets — A tribe on the war-path — A solitary wanderer — Sport and 
 science — ^Return to Mombasa — A pleasant change — Organise a new caravan — 
 An earthquake shock, 
 
 A few days' rest in a cool and rain-proof shed, with such 
 luxuries as fresh vegetables and baked bananas, was enjoyable. 
 The surroundings, too, were pleasanter than formerly, the 
 young grass being now short and green. Flowers — among 
 them many pretty ground orchids — were not yet choked in 
 rank herbage, and my boy could always procure a handsome 
 variety to adorn my humble table. 
 
 My messengers were back from Mombasa with mails, etc., 
 and what was of even more interest to me — a new rifle. This 
 was an ordinary service Lee-Metford (mark IV.). I shall have 
 more to say about this weapon later on. At first I could not 
 make very good shooting with it ; for, besides having to become 
 accustomed to its unfamiliar handling, it needed an emphatically 
 " long pull and a strong pull " to fire it ; so long indeed, that I 
 had sometimes, after feeling the trigger come an appreciable 
 way, to start afresh before it would go off.^ Moreover, it was 
 awkward in the bush, as the least touch of a branch against 
 
 1 On my return to Mombasa, before starting on my next expedition, I was able, 
 through the kindness of a naval officer, to get this defect remedied.
 
 RETURN TO MOMBASA 
 
 the prominent bolt was sufficient to make the breech fly open. 
 Nevertheless, I soon found that its shooting powers were 
 marvellous, and I was, from the first, particularly successful 
 with it against rhinoceroses, of which I killed several — mostly 
 with a single bullet each — during the remainder of this trip, 
 none of which ran more than a couple of hundred yards after 
 receiving the shot. 
 
 Up to this time all my elephant and rhino shooting had 
 been done with my double .577. I had been laughed at by 
 many for starting on such a hunting trip with no larger rifle, 
 but I always was an advocate of small bores, and I am bound 
 to say that I believe I used fewer cartridges for the number of 
 elephants killed with this weapon than any other I have ever 
 tried. Since I got that rifle (a good many years ago) many 
 changes and improvements have been made, both in firearms 
 and ammunition ; I may say, however, — ^without presuming to 
 lay down any rule for others, — that my experience, with regard 
 to bullets, is decidedly in favour of solid, as compared with any 
 (what I should call) fancy projectiles. Steel cores or points 
 are unsatisfactory : the lead invariably strips in passing through 
 any bone — even a rib, — leaving the light steel with little re- 
 maining momentum. Of course you can kill game with almost 
 anything, when you get a favourable chance and make the 
 most of it. I remember a native in South Africa showing me 
 a rough, cylindrical piece of iron, of his own forging, with which 
 he had killed several head of game, including buffalo. It fitted 
 loosely into his gun — an old musket. 
 
 In view of the conflicting opinions one meets with on the 
 subject of rhinos, perhaps the result of my observations may 
 be worth adding here, towards their explanation. I believe 
 that, as a general rule, the rhinoceros, like all wild animals, 
 runs away from man wlicn he can. Here and there an indi- 
 vidual may be met with, which, under certain circumstances, 
 will charge (and I think the circumstances have more to do 
 with it than the individual), apparently without cause. When
 
 122 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 these animals are numerous, the chances of coming across a 
 cantankerous specimen are of course increased in proportion ; 
 and a large caravan is, I think, far more likely to give rise to 
 the aggravating conditions than a few people passing would be. 
 I imagine that, when a rhino is anxious to escape, a long string of 
 porters is apt to give it the idea of being surrounded ; but there 
 is no doubt that, apart from this, one is occasionally liable to 
 be charged. I have myself nowhere met with them in large 
 numbers ; four is the most I have ever seen in one party, and 
 about ten during a long day's hunt would be the limit seen in 
 any one day, and that rarely. Generally speaking, this kind 
 of game is scattered thinly, in parties of two or three or singly, 
 over the country ; but under certain conditions, such as scarcity 
 of water, they may be collected in particular localities. 
 
 I have taken particular notice of their behaviour in every 
 instance among the many opportunities I have had, and I have 
 come to the conclusion that they never charge from scent, but 
 only from sight. My experience is that a rhino invariably runs 
 away on winding human beings (as, I believe, generally speak- 
 ing, do all animals). I have very many times passed close to 
 these creatures, and sometimes had to shout at them to make 
 them get out of the wa}^ That they are excessively stupid 
 there can be no doubt ; and I think it is partly their very 
 stupidity that sometimes leads them to make an attack, through 
 not realising what the intruder really is ; for they will on 
 occasion go for any strange object that may approach them, 
 — as, for instance, I have seen a large stone charged, which 
 one of my men had thrown at a rhino that would not get out 
 of our way. A cow with a calf is, as might be expected, more 
 likely to prove vicious than another. I do not believe that 
 they differ in disposition in different localities, nor do I believe 
 that there is more than one species of (so-called) black rhino- 
 ceros in Africa. 
 
 As Mr. Selous demonstrated long ago, all the different 
 patterns of horns may be found in the same district, and
 
 VI RETURN TO MOMBASA 123 
 
 I have myself shot a pair of which the female had the second 
 horn much longer than the front one, while her mate carried 
 the ordinary kind. I do not say that the animals may not 
 vary slightly in size or shade of colour of the skin accord- 
 ing to the country they inhabit, just as some species of 
 antelopes (such as the bushbuck and, to a less extent, the 
 duiker) have types agreeing with the character of their sur- 
 roundings ; but length of horn is no more a distinction than 
 long or short hair among ourselves. I merely record the 
 conclusions I have arrived at as the result of my own personal 
 experience, and as perhaps helping to explain the different 
 opinions expressed by other travellers ; my own being that, 
 take him all in all, there is no occasion to stand in much awe 
 of " the armed rhinoceros." 
 
 There is one other observation that may be worth noting ; 
 namely, as to the voice of this curious, old-fashioned-looking 
 creature, as I have not seen it alluded to. As far as I know, 
 there are three sounds which a rhino can make. When dis- 
 turbed, he makes a snorting like a steam-engine as he runs. 
 Sometimes a mortally wounded rhino cries, when dying ; the 
 cry is in a high key, but hardly shrill enough to be called a 
 squeal. The third is the natural call, used, I suppose, to its 
 mate. This I have heard only at night, when all was still in 
 camp. It seems to me most to resemble the bubbling of a 
 camel, only in a lower key ; it also sometimes reminds one 
 somewhat of the amorous grunting of impala rams. At one 
 of my hunting-camps, which was in the midst of thick bush 
 where rhinos were numerous, I heard it frequently. Rhinos 
 are also found in very open country in Central Africa, and may 
 often be seen apparently grazing ; though closer observation 
 shows that it is not the grass itself, but certain plants among 
 it, which they eat. 
 
 Among other news that awaited me on my return to Laiju 
 I learned that a German gentleman (Dr. Kolb) was at the Tana 
 unable to proceed owing to difficulties with his caravan, and the
 
 124 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 insufficient number of men that remained with him. I accord- 
 ingly sent to invite him to join me here, which he was glad to 
 do, after having crossed the river, swollen by the rains, in a 
 canoe he had most cleverly constructed by covering a frame- 
 work of wattles with the canvas " fly " of his tent. 
 
 He had, he told me, been a member of the abortive Freeland 
 Expedition ; and on the collapse of that chimerical scheme had 
 determined to see something of the country for himself As I 
 intended making another excursion to the foot of Kenia, which 
 he was anxious to see, and could be of some assistance to him 
 through my knowledge of the country and natives, while it 
 would not be safe for him to go on alone with so few men, and 
 those imperfectly armed (all mine had Snider carbines), it was 
 arranged that he should accompany me. I, on the other hand, 
 should be glad of his companionship ; and, having explained 
 to him that the wanton murder of four of my men by the 
 natives of Embe imposed on me the duty of teaching that 
 tribe a lesson, he volunteered to help me, and his assistance in 
 that rather ticklish business was of the greatest value to me, 
 a white man being, under such circumstances, a host in himself 
 in Central Africa. 
 
 Owing to continued wet it was three weeks from the time 
 of my return before we got off once more. I occupied myself 
 pleasantly during the fine portions of these days of detention 
 in butterfly-hunting, for which Laiju is a good locality. And 
 altogether I think we both rather enjoyed the delay. 
 
 Just above the " boma " was one of the small crater koppies 
 already spoken of as occurring on both sides of the range. I 
 had several times seen two or three " roi rheboks " on this hill 
 — a buck with which I had been familiar in South Africa, 
 particularly in the Lobombo district of Zululand, where it is 
 plentiful — but foolishly had not attempted to obtain a specimen, 
 supposing it to be identical with the southern species, though 
 I had never noticed any before in Central Africa. But one 
 day, while we were there together, one showed itself on the
 
 RETURN TO MOMBASA 125 
 
 slope above, and Dr. Kolb shot it from just outside the " boma." 
 I did not even then notice any difference in it from the " roi 
 rheboks " of the south, but I have since learned that a specimen 
 which Mr. Chanler had taken home has been deemed new, and 
 named after him. But the curious thing about this buck is 
 that I have never seen it anywhere but on that particular 
 isolated crater koppie, and the natives there said there were 
 none elsewhere, as far as they knew. I do not assert that 
 there are none on any of the other hills, but it is a strange 
 thing that I never came across any, and they must, at all events, 
 be very rare. 
 
 Fortunately for us, we had not much more rain after we 
 started, and the moon, being at the full, was favourable to our 
 somewhat hazardous undertaking. It sounds presumptuous 
 to talk of going among a tribe numbering thousands with a 
 handful of men to exact retribution, but it is not to be shirked 
 if the country is to be safe for us, and I always aim at leaving 
 it so for the next traveller. The method we adopted to chastise 
 the inhabitants of the district where my men had been killed 
 was to seize a number of their sheep and goats, and these we 
 slaughtered and left in a heap among their burnt kraals. I 
 suggested this because I did not want them to think that 
 raiding, for the sake of plunder, was any part of our object, 
 though two or three cows and a few donkeys which we captured 
 we thought ourselves justified in keeping. They made no 
 determined attack upon us, thanks, I fancy, mainly to the awe 
 the wonderful powers of our long-range rifles inspired ; for we 
 could easily disperse any threatening body of warriors, collected 
 anywhere within sight, by firing one or two shots. The night 
 was an anxious and sleepless time ; but having taken every 
 possible precaution, it passed without any attempt to rush us. 
 In the morning we descended by a difficult defile, not without 
 dread of ambuscades, but not a native showed himself, and, the 
 day after, we camped at Mthara. 
 
 The result of this action showed I was right. After this,
 
 126 EL EPHA NT-H UN TING IN EAST A FRICA chap. 
 
 my men could pass safely through the district, the guns and 
 other trifles that had been taken from the murdered men were 
 returned, and the " elders " sued for peace. I have already 
 described this land of plenty. It was, at the time of this visit, 
 being devastated by locusts ; but so prolific is the soil that 
 famine seems almost impossible. Every few months fresh 
 crops of grain and beans ripen, while bananas, yams, and sweet 
 potatoes are always in season. It is worth noticing that in 
 districts where bananas are the staple food, the inhabitants do 
 not depend on the ripe fruit, but cook the green bananas, either 
 by steaming or roasting in the fire. No doubt coffee would 
 flourish, too, in these fertile hills, though the natives have none 
 there. This hill district is only of small extent ; a man can 
 walk through the whole extent of it, from Laiju on the one 
 side to Mthara on the other, between sunrise and sunset. 
 
 I will not give a detailed account of this excursion, but, as 
 we visited some country I had not before reached, a few 
 remarks may not be altogether uninteresting. 
 
 We stayed a few days at what I called my " ivory camp " 
 (the one under the wide-spreading tree). It was now made 
 less comfortable by swarms of caterpillars, which dropped upon 
 us with painfully irritating effect upon our skins. Dr. Kolb, 
 especially, suffered much from this cause, being, as a newcomer, 
 more susceptible to the poison than myself. Here I had the 
 honour of introducing my companion to my esteemed brother 
 Ndaminuki, and to the rhino, an animal whose acquaintance he 
 had not yet made. He had shot hippos in the Tana, but felt 
 rather desponding about his chances of bagging a " faro " 
 (Swahili for rhino). However, I promised him he should have 
 that satisfaction, and my pledge was fulfilled the first time he 
 went out with me. After that he shot many. He was, I 
 believe, a first-rate shot, though somewhat hampered in the 
 bush by the necessity of wearing spectacles. 
 
 We spent our Christmas at the foot of Kenia, in sight, at 
 all events, of snow, and had frequent splendid views of the
 
 RETURN TO MOMBASA 
 
 127 
 
 great mountain under varying conditions. One phenomenon 
 puzzled me. I have often noticed Kenia quite clear, while the 
 much lower neighbouring range of Jambeni would be capped 
 with cloud. 
 
 The entry in my diary, under date 25th December 1894, is 
 as follows : — " I don't feel quite sure that this is really Christmas 
 Day, though Kolb is confident his dates are right (there had 
 
 Summit of Mount Kenia. 
 
 (From a Photograph by Dr. Kolb.) 
 
 been a difference in our reckonings). However, we kept it. I 
 made a 'duff' of the dark-coloured meal of the country, suet, 
 and raisins, and it turned out better than I expected. The 
 roast beef (a baron of veal) was first-rate. In the afternoon I 
 set a gun for the ' fisi ' (hyenas), which had made last night 
 hideous with their bad language over the skull of Kolb's rhino. 
 This gave us a little occupation, and considerable amusement 
 in the evening, when it went off in the middle of a useful
 
 128 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 dinner, and we went out, between the courses, to find a hyena 
 dead in front of the gun, it having acted perfectly. Another 
 shot itself before I went to sleep. Before morning it went off 
 a third time, but without result, as the bait had got loose. I 
 have spent many much less contented Christmases. We gave 
 our men a young bull, all to themselves, to celebrate the 
 festival." 
 
 From here we moved farther round the base of the 
 mountain towards the south-east, and ascended, before camp- 
 ing, to a height of perhaps 8000 or 9000 feet. Our camp 
 here was above all the settlements and slightly below the 
 untouched forest, and commanded an extensive view over the 
 country below. Between Jambeni and Kenia is a broad valley, 
 fertile and abundantly watered. I saw a good deal at one 
 time and another of this part, as well as that about the foot 
 of Kenia on its eastern and north-eastern sides. The lower 
 slopes were probably all forest once, but much has been cleared, 
 and a large proportion of the land is cultivated by the natives, 
 who are numerous here, the tribes being those of Mnyithu and 
 Katheri. All these people are akin to those of Kikuyu. But 
 there is also a clan of Wakwavi (a branch of the Masai), living 
 alongside of Katheri, and a community of Ndorobos, too ; thus 
 three distinct races with different customs live side by side. 
 The people of Katheri cultivate, and also own some stock ; the 
 Wakwavi are purely pastoral ; while the Ndorobos (a very 
 inferior sample of the race) live on what they can pick up in 
 the forest or cadge from their neighbours, who tolerate them on 
 the strength of an occasional tusk of ivory they may now and 
 again get out of them. 
 
 These Wakwavi, who still own considerable herds of cattle, 
 live in great dread of the Masai of Ndoro, on the western side 
 of Kenia. Like many other tribes with whom I have made 
 friendly leagues at different times, they now wanted us, after 
 becoming their " brothers " by their own desire, to aid them in 
 a war on their enemies ; but this invitation we of course
 
 VI RETURN TO MOMBASA 129 
 
 declined, as is my invariable rule. I always explained, when 
 importuned in this way, that I had come to shoot elephants, 
 not men ; and that until attacked, or unless my friends should 
 be so while I was with them, I desired peace with all. 
 
 There is nothing in the shape of a plateau, such as one 
 sometimes reads of, at the foot of Kenia, though it has a broad 
 base and the slopes are on a gentle gradient. Between the 
 cultivation and the virgin forest is some beautiful pasture land, 
 where the timber has evidently been cleared and the land 
 cultivated and afterwards abandoned. It was here that we 
 made our camp for about a week. Numerous little streams, 
 cold and limpid, run down between the undulations. This is 
 a charming bit of country ; but I could not keep warm at 
 night, do what I would. Hoar frost was on the grass every 
 morning, and the wood, though abundant, would not burn. 
 The forest is very beautiful, and contains many fine timber 
 trees. The trunk of one that I measured girthed about 
 1 5 feet and was straight as a dart for at least 60 feet. 
 It was here that I met with the very handsome monkey with 
 a white collar, which, it appears, has been named Cercopithecus 
 allyotorquatus, from a specimen the locality of which was 
 unknown. A large yellow monkey, which I had seen on the 
 slopes above our Christmas camp, but of which I was unable to 
 obtain a specimen, seemed quite different from any I had ever 
 met with, and may probably be new. To these latter I was 
 attracted by their peculiar, rather musical, hooting cry — 
 reminding me somewhat of the call (distinct from its bark) of 
 the wild dog ; — but I failed to get a shot at one. In the 
 forest were, as usual in such localities, many scarlet- winged 
 plantain-eaters and big black and white hornbills. A pair of 
 the latter had their nest in a hole high up the trunk of a 
 large tree close to our camp. The male used to feed his 
 mate (which must have been sitting) through the aperture 
 — at least that is how I construed their behaviour. Among 
 many rare butterflies that I obtained here. Miss Bowdler 
 
 K
 
 13° 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Sharpe (who arranged my collection for me) found one quite 
 new species. 
 
 We had no difficulties with the natives, and entered into 
 friendly relations by " eating blood " with most of the tribes we 
 passed through — indeed I and my African brothers form quite 
 a good-sized family altogether, and Dr. Kolb, I think, could say 
 the same. But one night things looked decidedly threatening. 
 
 Dr. Kolb making Blood-Brotherhood with Wakwavi of Katheri. 
 
 Just as we were going to sleep, an old " brother " of ours came 
 into camp and warned us that he had discovered that there 
 was a plot to attack us during the night ; and no sooner had 
 we heard this rather disturbing news than an arrow, freshly 
 smeared with poison, was shot into our camp. Immediately 
 after — extra sentries having been posted and precautions taken 
 — an unfortunate porter, who had foolishly gone outside with- 
 out telling any one, was shot by one of the guards and died in 
 half an hour. We despatched the ancient relative, who had
 
 RETURN TO MOMBASA 
 
 given us timely warning, to summon another " brother " who 
 lived close by ; he came at once, and shared our watch. There 
 was, however, no further disturbance of the peace, and the whole 
 alarm may have been caused by nothing more than the playful 
 escapade of some young bloods having their little joke. It 
 was enough, though, to cause us another of those watchful and 
 anxious nights which are so unpleasant, but we did not con- 
 sider it of sufficient importance to interrupt the friendly rela- 
 tions existing between us and our neighbours, in spite of the 
 affair having indirectly caused the death of one of our porters. 
 
 I found the same difficulty as before in getting at the 
 Kenia elephants, and had no success with them ; in fact I only 
 once even saw one ; and ivory I had been told of, and which I 
 had hoped to buy, turned out a myth ; so we decided to keep 
 on towards the Tana instead of returning by the way we had 
 come. Passing first through the populous and fertile valley 
 already mentioned, we then struck for the river. After getting 
 out of the undulating country, where the ground was nearly all 
 under cultivation — magnificent crops of millet just then ripen- 
 ing (the locusts having disappeared) — we descended gradually 
 to the level uninhabited tract below. We had now left the paths 
 behind us, and our progress became more arduous, particularly 
 on the steep sides of the ridges, owing to the long and thick 
 grass. While going down the slopes, the doctor came in con- . 
 tact with a hornet's nest — a paper-like construction attached to ' /vi^-^' 
 a spray — and we were both badly stung. Being a hardened 
 old stager, the pain .soon passed off in my case, as on many 
 similar occasions, but my friend's system, fresh from Europe, 
 resented the poison, and he suffered considerably for some time, 
 the parts swelling a good deal. 
 
 Getting away from the hills, at the foot of which arc some 
 beautiful bits of forest, wc entered, first, open plains covered 
 with rank grass, with here and there patches of wood — a land 
 of many streams and dotted with pools and swamps (the 
 leakage of the mountain and hills). Game was plentiful here :
 
 132 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 herds of the smaller zebra, numerous waterbucks, and many 
 rhinos. I also saw a troop of Coke's hartebeeste, and in the 
 larger pools were hippos. 
 
 On the way we fell in with a raiding party of some two 
 hundred young warriors from Embe, on a kidnapping expedi- 
 tion, bound for Thaka (a district a little higher up the Tana). 
 Their idea of " the war-path " is to carry off any women and 
 children they may be able to surprise in outlying " shambas." 
 They were very civil and respectful to us, and went about their 
 business when I told them we preferred having nothing to do 
 with them under the circumstances. 
 
 Farther on the countr}' became gradually more bushy as 
 we got nearer the river, till the thick Tana scrub was reached. 
 
 While Dr. Kolb went on to shoot hippos, I halted where I 
 had seen a little elephant spoor. I found a single bull, which 
 I killed. He was a solitary wanderer of the "herd -bull" 
 type : his tusks — long and handsome, but thin — weighed 
 49 lbs. and 44 lbs. respectively, one being considerably 
 thicker at the base than its fellow. Probably he had been 
 ousted by a rival from the harem, and was sulking by himself 
 He was in poor condition and had two sores on his back. I 
 was very pleased with this stroke of good luck, after so long an 
 interval, and wrote in my diary : " This was a glorious bit of 
 exciting success. Nothing in the world can touch the glow of 
 satisfaction on flooring a fine elephant." 
 
 On reaching the river I found the doctor enjoying himself 
 vastly among the hippos. He had been combining sport with 
 scientific research, and, on coming across to see me, produced 
 from his pocket a little red hippopotamus he had just acquired, 
 about the size of a guinea-pig, in which he was deeply interested. 
 
 As I could find no signs of any more elephants, and had 
 made up my mind to visit the coast, sell what ivory I had, and 
 reorganise my caravan for another expedition, I returned to 
 Laiju to make my arrangements. I had all my goods trans- 
 ported back to the outside kraals of Ukambani, across the
 
 RETURN TO MOMBASA 
 
 133 
 
 Tana, where I left them in charge of a civil and intelligent 
 headman named Mtiya, and made the best of my way to 
 Mombasa with a few men carrying my personal baggage ; 
 leaving Abdulla — now promoted to be headman and in whom 
 I had perfect confidence — to follow with the ivory.^ 
 
 AUTHOR'S Ivory Caravan arriving. 
 
 (From a Pliotograpli l)y Mr. J. R. W. Pi(;ott.) 
 
 I arrived at the beginning of March 1895, after an absence 
 of fourteen months, the caravan getting in nearly a fortnight 
 later. 
 
 ' 1 had to bid adieu to Dr. Kolb, who was not returning direct to the coast just 
 then. He subsequently made another journey from Mombasa to Mount Kenia, when he 
 succeeded in ascending the mountain, and did much careful geographical work in its 
 neighbourhood. An interesting account of this expedition has been published in Dr. A. 
 I'eterniann's Milteilungen (42. Band, 1896).
 
 134 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 The two and a half months which I spent in Mombasa, 
 now, were a pleasant change to me ; change of diet, manner of 
 life, and surroundings, with the opportunity of speaking my 
 native language and enjoying the hospitality of kind friends. 
 But it was not an idle time, far from it, nor was the work of 
 reorganising my caravan uninteresting to me, though I fear it 
 would be so to the reader were I to go into many details about 
 buying and packing the {^w goods I needed. Beads were the 
 
 AUTHOR'S Porters depositing his Tusks at Custom-House. 
 
 (From a Photograph by Mr. J. R. W. Pigott.) 
 
 principal item, as medium for barter in the interior, our small 
 change in fact ; while, for myself, an ample supply of tea, salt, 
 and soap were almost the only groceries I took. 
 
 Most of my best porters " wrote on " again, and the few 
 new ones engaged were all accredited as first-class men : my 
 servants were the same as before. I kept down the number 
 this time to thirty-five, all told. It was a little party to start 
 with, for so long a journey, and of course its weakness involved 
 a certain amount of risk. Formerly I had imagined a much
 
 VI RETURN TO MOMBASA 135 
 
 larger number indispensable, and have heard even two hundred 
 spoken of as insufficient to ensure safety ; but in neither of the 
 instances in which I had come to blows with natives, during the 
 last trip, had I more than about the number above mentioned 
 (between thirty and forty) with me. One can do a good deal 
 with thirty-five good men armed with Sniders in Central Africa. 
 Besides, I preferred the risk of hostilities to that of starvation ; 
 and, as I had determined to reach Rudolph this time and knew 
 the immense stretch of barren, foodless country I should have 
 to pass through, but could not tell how long it might take to 
 traverse, I felt it to be most important to keep the number of 
 mouths to be fed in the wilderness within the narrowest 
 possible limits. 
 
 One of the first steps to be taken was to procure a fresh 
 troop of good donkeys. For this purpose I sent Abdulla to 
 the neighbourhood of Pangani, and he was successful in buying 
 me a very useful lot. Another most important question was 
 that of pack-saddles. On my former journey I had used a kind 
 similar to those in vogue among gold prospectors in South 
 Africa. I had noticed that Swahili donkeys always had sore 
 backs, and blamed the method of packing. I now found that 
 the Arab " sogi," which they use, is much better adapted to the 
 purpose than any hard frame. It is a kind of soft panniers, 
 resting on a large pad. Through the kindness of the officers 
 of a steamer that happened to be undergoing repair in the 
 port, I was able to get some canvas ones made ; and so well 
 sewn and satisfactory were they that they lasted the whole trip, 
 and returned, much patched, through damage caused by thorns 
 and rocks, to the coast. I found that with proper care, and 
 attention to the pads and the packing of the animals, there was 
 no reason why they should get sore backs at all : mine never did. 
 It is only the carelessness and want of feeling of Swahilis that 
 causes these in their animals, through their neglect to take the 
 trouble needed to keep the gear in proper order, added often 
 to cruel overloading. I have witnessed the most revolting
 
 o
 
 CHAP. VI RETURN TO MOMBASA 137 
 
 sights of this kind ; donkeys with horrible, reeking sores, 
 penetrating to the backbone and even full of maggots, still 
 made to carry loads. 
 
 Fortunately I was in Mombasa just during the wettest part 
 of the rainy season, so that I avoided the inconvenience of 
 travelling during its continuance. My preparations were finally 
 completed on 1 3th May ; but, just as I was starting off the 
 caravan on the morning of the i 4th, it came on to rain heavily, 
 and the loads had to be brought in again and our departure 
 put off. At daybreak the next morning (about 5.30 of the 
 15 th), before it was fully light, there was a severe shock of 
 earthquake, followed by several slighter ones. I ran out into 
 the street and saw my neighbours opposite and next door — 
 missionaries with their wives — just coming out of their doors. 
 It was a curious and rather amusing situation, meeting thus in 
 deshabille in the street at so early an hour, and somewhat 
 embarrassing to a shy man, as the sensation had been too 
 impressive and suggestive of catastrophe to allow of even ladies 
 waiting for the exigencies of the toilet. Fortunately no serious 
 damage was done, though many walls were cracked. Rain 
 came on again and prevented my starting yet another day ; 
 but on the i6th we got off in good time.
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 SECOND EXPEDITION 
 
 Change in rifle equipment — Reach Samburu — A waterless district — Watering donkeys 
 — Flocks of guinea-fowl — Ukambani — ^Among the Wakamba tribe — Mishap to 
 Frolic — An impassable river — ^Traces of elephants — Death of Frolic — A dis- 
 appointing day — Construct a canoe — Difficult navigation — Crossing the pack- 
 animals — A serviceable call — A disagreeable route — Interior of a crater — Near- 
 ing the Lorogi Mountains — My old camp at El Bogoi. 
 
 A CHANGE had been made in the rifles with which I was 
 equipped for this trip. Through an accident, my trusty .577 
 had become crippled, and I had replaced it by a hurriedly pro- 
 cured lo-bore by Holland. I was never in favour of big bores ; 
 and this one, though doubtless a first-rate weapon of its kind, 
 convinced me still more that they are a mistake. I had also 
 (as already mentioned) a Lee-Metford magazine rifle of the 
 ordinary military pattern, which I, personally, prefer to a 
 " sporting" stock. 
 
 The personnel of the safari being practically the same as 
 before, every one knew his work, so there was no confusion or 
 worry ; neither did I have a single desertion, and everything 
 worked smoothly from the first. I had still my little bitch 
 " Frolic," and a small fox-terrier pup, which I christened " Pice," 
 had been given me. 
 
 On the fourth day out we reached Samburu, and from there, 
 turning off to the right from the main Uganda path, struck 
 across for the junction of the Tsavo and Athi rivers. I hate 
 main roads and was glad to get off this one, though there are
 
 CHAP. VII SECOND EXPEDITION 139 
 
 certain drawbacks to be put up with on by-paths, such as their 
 narrowness and windings, and the overhanging, sometimes 
 meeting, branches. The country is similar to that commonly 
 known as the Taro desert ; an arid, level, scrub-covered tract 
 with a barren brick-dust soil and very little water. This part 
 of the route is impassable in very dry seasons, owing to the 
 little water there ever is drying up. 
 
 It is especially troublesome watering donkeys where water 
 has to be dug for and scooped out by cupfuls from a hole into 
 which it trickles slowly ; for, before they are accustomed to 
 travelling, they are most exasperatingly stupid about drinking, 
 even when thirsty. Some will not drink out of a bucket, at 
 first ; while others, that have lived where water is only in wells, 
 cannot be induced to drink except out of a utensil of some 
 sort. Indeed, I have found, somewhat to my surprise, that 
 the obtuseness proverbially attributed to the humble ass is not 
 a libel. 
 
 It is curious to watch the change a good drink makes in 
 thirsty donkeys. They come down with hanging ears and 
 hollow sides, looking dejected and thin, not a kick or bray in 
 the most vicious of them — and what more vicious than a bad- 
 tempered donkey stallion ? But as they drink their sides swell 
 out visibly, and ribs become less prominent. After about a 
 bucketful, up goes the head, the ears are pricked, the tail begins 
 to rise, and your lately limp and inoffensive " punda " begins 
 to look about quite cheekily again, as who should say, " Now 
 come on, you beggars ; if I don't make it hot for some of you, 
 never believe me again." 
 
 The distances here are very long, between water and water, 
 as much as forty miles sometimes, necessitating what is called 
 " tclekeza " (literally " to make to pour in," signifying that 
 water has to be carried in gourds), which means cooking and 
 eating before starting, sleeping anywhere, and reaching the 
 next pool — often horribly foul — some time next day. This 
 sort of travelling in such a country — tramping hour after hour
 
 Watering Donkeys.
 
 CHAP. VII SECOND EXPEDITION 141 
 
 through the dry scrub under a burning sun — is monotonous 
 and hard work. Still the very desert itself has its charms and 
 even its advantages. It cuts off the back .country and dis- 
 courages communication, so that one feels fairly launched into 
 the wilderness almost from the time of leaving the coast. 
 
 Of game there is little, as might be expected in so water- 
 less a district. A few Waller's gazelle — an antelope which 
 seems independent of water — may occasionally be seen, and I 
 shot a lesser koodoo — perhaps a wanderer from the Sabaki, my 
 first buck for the trip and welcome for the pot, being excellent 
 meat — while the tiny "paa " (Kirk's antelope) is not uncommon ; 
 I also saw a giraffe. After striking the Sabaki (or Athi, as it is 
 called above its junction with the Tsavo), the path follows the 
 river for three or four days. It is pleasant to get on the banks 
 of this river (for which I always retain an affection) with its 
 green willows and fresh scent, and its wide, though shallow and 
 rather muddy, stream, and to have an unstinted supply of good 
 sweet water. It was an old friend of mine, for I had done 
 some road-cutting here in 1890 for the I.B.E.A. Co.; and it 
 was a comfort, after the narrow, overhung path we had been 
 traversing, to find mine still quite open, with the exception of a 
 branch here and there or a fallen tree. When I cut this path 
 first, I was told the stumps ought to be dug up ; but, having 
 had some experience in South African road pioneering, I 
 merely cut the trees and bushes close to the ground, and the 
 result proved I was right, for they almost all died ; whereas, 
 had I dug up the soil, it would have had the effect of cultiva- 
 tion to encourage the growth of rank vegetation. 
 
 The river runs through the same barren, scrub-covered 
 country — in some parts gravelly ridges, in others sandy flats 
 bordering its banks. There are quartz veins in places, but I 
 could never get a colour of gold, though I have tried. One 
 thing that always strikes me about this country is the scarcity 
 of game ; for even along the banks of the river there is 
 marvellously little — a very few waterbuck at intervals, an
 
 142 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 occasional lesser koodoo or two, a little lot of impala, some- 
 times, at one particular point, and rarely an odd bushbuck, are 
 all that is seen, without counting the diminutive paa, and now 
 and again a rhino, giraffe, or hippo spoor. Formerly there 
 was a sprinkling of buffalo in small herds ; but these the 
 cattle plague swept off The other game, however, was always 
 scarce. It is easy to say that the conditions are not suited to 
 its requirements — too much scrub and too little grass — but 
 one cannot help wondering why some species have not become 
 
 
 SH 
 
 ^' % 
 
 '^^ /.:! 
 
 
 ^iXfk 
 
 o?^ 
 
 VULTURINES AND DOG, 
 
 adapted to the land. Here are great stretches of uninhabited 
 bush country with a perennial river running through it, and 
 hardly any animals, though plenty of birds and of " fly " 
 (tetse). 
 
 On the Athi are three varieties of guinea-fowl. Towards 
 the coast the small, delicate, little crested species, living in 
 thick bush, is found — the tenderest of all on the table. In its 
 middle course large flocks of the large and beautiful vulturine 
 guinea-fowl are met with ; while higher up again comes the 
 common horned kind. The second, though very wild and hard 
 to get a shot at without a dog, becomes the veriest idiot when
 
 VII SECOND EXPEDITION 143 
 
 one is present. While one member of the flock is chased, the 
 rest stand in a ruck on the ground close by, gaping with 
 craned necks in stupid amazement at the apparition, and may 
 be mown down for the pot if needed and a shot-gun is used. 
 I once killed thirteen in a few minutes out of a large flock, 
 using nine cartridges. The first shot killed five on the ground, 
 in the manner described ; the rest were picked off in ones and 
 twos from the trees into which they had flown, and where they 
 sat watching my little dog below. But except the very young 
 ones, these handsome birds are not so good for the table as 
 the common sort, though in size and appearance, with their 
 light-blue breasts and pheasant-like tails, they surpass all the 
 other members of the genus. 
 
 After crossing and leaving the river, two or three days' 
 march takes us to the commencement of Ukambani, where we 
 join our former path at Ikutha (the German mission). Up to 
 this point (a fortnight's journey) we had to depend upon what 
 we had carried on donkeys from the coast ; but here food may 
 be bought, and, through the kind assistance of my friend Mr. 
 Sauberlich, we readily obtained a good supply. 
 
 The first part of Ukambani on this route is but sparsely 
 peopled, and the country is, except where cultivated, for the 
 most part covered with bush and badly watered. As one 
 travels northwards it rises and becomes more open and hilly, 
 and a good deal of it is densely populated. Here we get 
 among granite hills, bare of wood, and even firewood is scarce ; 
 what bush there may in former times have been, having been 
 used up. But water is now plentiful. The Wakamba are an 
 enterprising, but unprepossessing, people. On our way up we 
 had been constantly meeting large parties of them taking 
 cattle, sheep, and goats, and an odd tusk or two of ivory for 
 sale in Mombasa, or returning with the proceeds in the shape 
 of goods. Though peaceable enough in their own country, 
 they are inclined, when not themselves raided by the Masai, 
 to harass their weaker neighbours.
 
 144 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 I may here notice the method of carrying burdens adopted 
 by these people. The load is suspended by a strap passing 
 across the forehead, and lies on the back of the bearer, who 
 walks in a stooping attitude. This practice has evidently 
 originated in a bush country, where it is most awkward to 
 get along, under overhanging branches, with, a burden on the 
 head (as one sees exemplified in one's own porters' difficulties). 
 On the other hand, close to the coast and in the far interior, 
 where the country is for the most part more open, the natives 
 carry on the head. As might be expected, the consequence 
 is that the Wakamba and kindred races do not hold them- 
 selves nearly so well as those tribes who are forced, by their 
 mode of carrying, to stand erect. This stooping attitude, 
 induced by a similar cause, may be observed in parts of 
 Scotland, where the women carry peats in a basket slung on 
 the back. 
 
 The Wakamba are most assiduous bee-keepers. Their 
 " bee-tubs " may be seen in the bush at immense distances 
 from their kraals. The big baobabs are favourite trees for 
 the purpose, and their huge, soft trunks have frequently a 
 row of pegs, driven in at intervals, to serve as steps, by which 
 a man may mount to the higher branches. The honey is 
 used to make a kind of mead, on which they commonly get 
 intoxicated. They also make a similar drink of the juice 
 of pounded sugar-cane. The extraction of this syrup is a 
 sort of festival. A party of them, each with a pole, may be 
 seen dancing and singing round a huge mortar, keeping time 
 to the tune by plunging their long pestles alternately into 
 the pulp. 
 
 A rather curious custom of the Wakamba women is to 
 take pet lambs or sheep (sometimes two or three) about with 
 them. The object is, I imagine, to fatten these creatures, 
 which follow their owners about while they work in their fields, 
 and find pickings or are given food which they would not get 
 if grazing with the flock. Once I met a little damsel, on the
 
 VII SECOND EXPEDITION 145 
 
 path, followed by three chickens. On meeting me the latter 
 ran into the grass, and it was touching to see their little 
 mistress stop and alternately coax and scold them till they 
 came out and followed her again. I suppose she had no lamb 
 to make a pet of, so she did the best her circumstances would 
 allow to emulate her elders. 
 
 In Ukambani the women milk the cows. They do it in an 
 awkward manner, as if cattle -owning was not their natural 
 pursuit. One hand only is used to milk with, while the vessel 
 is held in the other, the operator standing the while. A 
 clumsier method of milking I never saw. 
 
 Mtiya's are the last villages of Ukambani towards the 
 Tana, on this route, and some thirty miles south of the river. 
 It is about a month's caravan journey from Mombasa hither ; 
 and, having been delayed two or three days to buy food on 
 the road, we did not arrive till 20th June. 
 
 I was disappointed, though not surprised, to hear, on reach- 
 ing Mtiya's, that the Tana was still too full to cross. I deter- 
 mined, however, to go on and camp on its banks myself, while 
 Abdulla remained to buy a large supply of food, to be taken 
 with us whenever we might be able to proceed. I was delayed 
 a week, making " shauris " about market prices and various 
 other matters — all such diplomatic treating is matter of time 
 in Africa — and making all other preparations and arrangements 
 needed in connection with our further progress, before parting 
 with Abdulla. My plan was to have all our loads carried by 
 the porters to the river, while I waited there, in order that, 
 when the time came for crossing, we might get our donkeys 
 through this " fly " belt as quickly as possible. 
 
 Having finished sorting and arranging the loads and seen 
 the food trade fairly started and in full swing, I started on 
 for the Tana, on 27th June, with the bulk of the caravan, 
 carrying as many loads as they could take, and left Abdulla 
 with two or three men in charge of the remainder of the goods 
 and the donkeys. From Mtiya's to the river is a good thirty 
 
 L
 
 146 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 miles, through dense scrub without any water : a tiresome 
 and most uninteresting tramp. We started about i P.M. and 
 bivouacked for the night at sundown. In the morning we 
 started on again with the first streaks of dawn, about five 
 o'clock, which was as early as it was possible to proceed, there 
 being no moon ; for though the path here is, during the dry 
 season when the river is low, well worn, it was now a good 
 deal overgrown and consequently impracticable in the dark. 
 I went ahead, leaving the caravan to follow at its own pace 
 to the river. On the way I came upon signs showing that 
 a herd of elephants had been about : the trees were broken 
 down in many places, and sometimes the path was obstructed 
 by branches they had thrown down ; I noticed, too, that 
 these evidences were of various ages, some quite recent, others 
 older. 
 
 When getting towards the river, my little dog " PVolic " 
 chased a troop of baboons in her usual playful way — as I 
 could tell by their cries, though the bush was too thick for 
 me to see — and I heard her give a yelp. She then came 
 running back to me, and I found she had been severely bitten 
 in the neck, at which I felt much indignation. But, though 
 my poor little favourite seemed dejected, I thought the wounds 
 were only skin deep, at first. 
 
 I got to the river by ten o'clock, and, turning off to the 
 right through some little open flats bordering the banks, was 
 making for a nice spot I knew of a little farther down, where 
 was a shady tree to camp under, when I met a wart-hog sow 
 with a nearly grown-up family, and had just time to give 
 her a shot as she was starting to make off, knocking her over. 
 One of the young ones came back towards me, quite close up ; 
 but I let them alone, as I had more than enough meat for my 
 own larder in the one I had shot, and, as my men would not 
 eat pig, I had no use for more. 
 
 The Tana is at this point divided by several islands (one 
 or two of them of some extent) into a number of channels.
 
 VII SECOND EXPEDITION 147 
 
 The principal of these is a roaring rapid, and never ford- 
 able ; but, when the river is low, it can be spanned by a 
 rough bridge (or rather two bridges) of poles, at a point 
 where its waters — confined in a narrow trough — rush down 
 as a foaming cataract between opposing rocks. The other 
 channels may then be forded. The water was now surging 
 over these rocky buttresses, and far too high to permit of 
 bridging, even if the other channels could have been after- 
 wards crossed. 
 
 Having shown my gun-bearers where to pitch my tent 
 by the tree in the small open flat with nice short grass, I 
 went down to the river-bank to try to secure some meat for 
 my party, as I knew there were always hippos close by. I 
 shot a small one, which, on getting the bullet under the ear, 
 dropped its ears for a second and then rolled over twice, feet 
 in the air. But we never found it, the river being too full 
 and the current too strong to allow the carcase to remain 
 where shot until it would float. I noticed that elephants 
 had been drinking quite lately (within a few days) near my 
 camp. The vicinity smelt quite strongly of waterbuck, a 
 small party of which I knew well by experience always 
 frequented these little grassy flats. Different kinds of game 
 have their distinctive odours, and one may often be warned 
 by scent of the neighbourhood of certain animals : water- 
 buck are among the most perfumed ; so are giraffes, par- 
 ticularly the bulls. In the afternoon a rhino came close to 
 camp, but it had made off by the time I could get hold 
 of a rifle. 
 
 My men were all in by about one o'clock. No fear of them 
 dawdling more than they could help until reaching the water. 
 After a long, dry march like this, I always send my attendants 
 back, carrying water, to meet the caravan and give the thirsty 
 porters a drink. 
 
 The next morning I went down the river to look for 
 elephant spoor, and soon found that some had drunk in the
 
 148 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 night quite close {too close, in fact) to camp. I followed until 
 noon, but they had never fed nor even halted, and from the 
 way they had meandered about in the night I felt sure they 
 had scented our camp and were scared, so at last I had to give 
 it up and return, getting back to camp during the afternoon, 
 tired and disappointed, but feeling I had done all I could. It 
 was vejy hot ; and following the traces of travelling elephants, 
 hour after hour, through the dry, monotonous, thorny scrub, is 
 weary work, especially when one seems to get no nearer to the 
 game. The bush is not so dense as to be very difficult to get 
 through, in most parts, but it is thick enough to make it a 
 continual struggle and to shut out all view ; so that, with no 
 encouragement to lead one on, it becomes extremely tiresome 
 work. The only game I had seen the whole day was a couple 
 of waterbuck, just after starting in the morning, at which, how- 
 ever, I did not get a shot. 
 
 I found by observations that the river, though still far too 
 full to think of getting across for some time, was gradually 
 falling, and hoped that, if this kept on, it might by and by 
 become passable. 
 
 " Frolic " had become very bad, and was evidently suffering 
 much pain. I felt anxious and depressed, and not very well ; 
 and, having sent most of my men back to fetch more loads, I 
 stayed about camp the next two days, doing all I could for the 
 relief of my little favourite. She became rapidly worse, how- 
 ever, and by the third day from being hurt she could no longer 
 move, seeming paralysed, the vertebrae being probably injured, 
 and could hardly even drink. The next day I felt sure that 
 she was dying. I had now to pour water into the corner of 
 her mouth to enable her to drink a little. As, however, I 
 could do no good by remaining in camp and it was most dis- 
 tressing to me to see her, I went out to look for elephant spoor, 
 starting as soon as there was a little light. 
 
 On the way down the river I shot a hippo, but as usual it 
 was carried away by the water. Some distance farther we
 
 SECOND EXPEDITION 
 
 found where elephants had drunk in the night, and, following 
 the spoor, which did not take us very far from the river this 
 time, came at length where it scattered and wound about with 
 signs of feeding. This was encouraging, though the spoor was 
 more difficult to follow now that the herd had spread out, the 
 ground being dry and hard. We, however, stuck to that of one 
 or two bulls, which seemed now to be alone — indeed I fancy 
 had not really been with those we had followed from the river 
 at all. It puzzled us a good deal, as they had sauntered along, 
 making little impression on the baked soil ; but while rather 
 at fault, we heard branches breaking ahead, giving us timely 
 warning of the whereabouts of one at any rate. It was a still, 
 cloudy day, with hardly any wind stirring ; but what there was 
 seemed for the moment right. I advanced, stupidly allowing 
 Squareface to follow — instead of proceeding alone, as was my 
 usual custom on getting so close under similar ticklish conditions 
 — and went in too hurriedly. The noise we made on the dry 
 leaves in the still air alarmed the elephant (a single bull), just 
 as I got the first glimpse of his head towering up among the 
 bushes which concealed the rest of his huge form, and he made 
 off at a run, screened by thick cover from me, giving me no 
 chance for a shot. He ran close past my other gun-bearer, who 
 had stopped a little behind, and he got a good view of him and 
 told me he was a monster. Of course. This was terribly 
 disappointing, and, though we tried afterwards to follow the 
 others, the one that we had scared joined them and made them 
 travel ; and, though we got warm dung several times, we had 
 to give it up in the end, and got back late in the afternoon, 
 tired and defeated, to find my dear little companion gone to 
 where all the elephants and other game one shoots go, I suppose, 
 and where I might follow her any day. How sad and lonely 
 I felt I cannot attempt to express. I had had sorrowful losses 
 before of favourites, both dogs and horses, but this was even 
 sadder and more trying. She had been the companion of my 
 travels for the last eighteen months : never apart were we, day
 
 I50 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 or night, unless I left her tied in camp while I went hunting. 
 She had the greatest confidence in me, and we never fell out. 
 Faithful, lovable little dog ! I don't think I could have felt the 
 loss of a human companion more. I felt at least that her life 
 with me had been a happy one. I buried her with my own 
 hands by moonlight ; and as I laid her in her little grave I 
 almost wished I could rest beside her in the quiet bush by the 
 roaring, cool river. A sad, sad day. 
 
 Thinking it best to go out and take my thoughts away from 
 my great loss, I was up again at 4 A.M. next morning, and off 
 as soon as it was light enough to see. We found the spoor of 
 a troop of cows, that had drunk not so far away as that of 
 yesterday, but it led us a long, long tedious chase, and it was 
 afternoon before we were able to hear the elephants. They had 
 crossed and recrossed a dry gully, and we had some difficulty 
 in keeping to their true course. However, at last we got on 
 terms with them, and I sneaked right up to within nice range, 
 but could not see to get a shot at either of the two small cows, 
 which were the only ones visible. One, the nearest, was facing 
 me — it had poor teeth ; the other was behind and broadside 
 on, but I could only see a bit of her, and was waiting, trying 
 to make her out, when suddenly the one next me gave a shrill 
 trumpet (having evidently got my wind), and they instantly both 
 wheeled round and disappeared. I fired a snap-shot, but with 
 no apparent result ; and, as we could find no blood, and as the 
 elephants here — owing to the proximity of the Wakamba, who 
 are constantly harrying them — when once disturbed go right 
 away, it was useless following them so late in the day. Another 
 disappointment ; through the treacherous breeze, to-day. We 
 did not get back to camp till long after dark, having sat down 
 only once, for about a quarter of an hour, the whole day. On 
 the way back, after having struck the river again and while 
 following along its bank, we came upon some hippos, which 
 were very close to the shore ; and one, which had a small calf, 
 charged towards me twice, in shallow water. But I would not
 
 VII SECOND EXPEDITION 151 
 
 shoot, as it was too far from camp and there was always such 
 a chance of losing them in this river, and it stopped when 
 within a few yards of me. Of course I should have had to 
 fire if it had come any nearer, but I thought it would not 
 come right on and felt quite safe with my double rifle ready in 
 my hand. 
 
 The porters having come again from Mtiya's with more loads, 
 I decided to keep two or three more with me and try to make 
 a " dug-out " to ferry us over ; for the river had not fallen at all 
 during the last three days, and I did not feel inclined to simply 
 wait an indefinite time. I felt the more impatient to get on 
 since I seemed destined to have no luck with the elephants 
 here, and was keen to proceed to my old hunting-grounds near 
 the Lorogi Mountains. 
 
 Accordingly I selected a baobab tree of suitable size, not 
 far from the bank of the river, and felled it ; afterwards cutting 
 off the top part and leaving a fairly straight and even trunk. 
 This kind of tree is very soft and spongy, and consequently 
 can be worked easily and expeditiously. I had no knowledge 
 as to its suitability for the purpose of making a canoe, but felt 
 pretty sure it would serve our turn, if we could only make a 
 decent job of it (for neither I nor my men had had any experi- 
 ence in naval architecture). We managed, by the aid of levers, 
 to get it into a suitable position for working at. At first we 
 were very clumsy with the axes, and I much regretted not 
 having an adze ; but we improved with practice, and found 
 a sharpened spade answered admirably to scoop out the inside, 
 the soft wood working almost as easily as so much cheese. 
 In four days we had so far completed it that we thought it 
 would do, and began our preparations for launching our vessel, 
 cutting rollers to put under it, and making paddles. 
 
 During the progress of this work I sometimes strolled a 
 little way along the banks of the river to get something for the 
 pot, and shot one or two of Kirk's tiny antelope, of which there 
 were plenty, with my rook rifle. I saw the waterbuck once or
 
 Q k"
 
 CHAP. VII SECOND EXPEDITION 153 
 
 twice, but never got one. As for the hippos, I had given up 
 molesting them, since it was impossible to get one out of the 
 water, even if killed dead, though I saw one, which I had shot 
 before, stuck against a snag or bank in the middle of the river. 
 There was practically no other game in the neighbourhood, and 
 I was too much absorbed in my shipbuilding to go in search of 
 elephants again till that was finished. 
 
 My caravan came in again, opportunely, the day that we 
 cleared a road to the river ; and, in spite of a severe attack of 
 fever, brought on by getting the sun (extremely powerful in this 
 valley) on my back while working at the canoe, I worked hard 
 to get it dragged down by the help of the porters. It is 
 difficult to get natives to exert themselves and pull together. 
 When a number are employed at lifting or pushing any heavy 
 object, each thinks it unnecessary to put much strain on his 
 own muscles. So it proved slow work, the dug-out being 
 heavy and awkward to handle, and we only got it half-way that 
 day. The next morning we got on better, and reached the 
 water of the branch channel, and partly floated, partly dragged 
 it down into the main stream, below the islands. 
 
 Now came the crucial test ; could we paddle it across ? It 
 was a clumsy craft and the current was strong, but some of my 
 men knew well how to use a paddle, being natives of the coast 
 and accustomed to navigating canoes in the sea. So I started 
 them off, with exhortations to ply their paddles with all their 
 might so as to avoid being carried too far down by the current ; 
 for, unless they hit the opposite bank within a reasonable 
 distance, it would be impossible to land. I stood watching the 
 trial trip with keen anxiety. The canoe shot out into the 
 stream, but as soon as it got near the middle of the river, where 
 the current was very strong and the water rather rough and full of 
 eddies from the meeting of the two branches of the river just 
 above, it swung right round and the crew had to bring it back 
 to our side. They reached the shore, of course, far below where 
 they started from, and had then to get out into the water and
 
 154 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 drag the clumsy craft up against the stream. We then made 
 another pair of paddles and desisted for that day, hoping for 
 better luck on the morrow. 
 
 In the morning we were at it again, this time pulling our 
 canoe by hand over to the lowest island (having found that the 
 channel was just fordable), and then up under the bank on the 
 other side of it some distance, so as to get a good start. On 
 trying again in this way, the paddlers succeeded in getting 
 right across ; but, the current being very swift under the 
 opposite bank, they were not able to land, and came back, 
 being carried far down again, and we had all the work of 
 dragging up over again. In the afternoon we made another 
 attempt, and the voyage was so far successful that they got across 
 nicely and landed, but when coming back, later, were carried 
 a long way down again. It was disappointing w'ork, and 
 difficult to get the men to exert themselves in the water at 
 dragging the canoe back up stream. I had been having 
 another go at the hippos, in hopes of getting some meat to 
 cheer them up, and the men who had crossed in the canoe saw 
 two dying on the far side, but were not able to get at them. 
 The next day I sent the bulk of the men back again to the 
 kraals with orders to Abdulla to wait until he heard from me, 
 as I did not want to use up our food supplies here, and a 
 few always work better than a large number. We then set 
 to work to improve our dug-out, lightening her fore and aft, 
 as the ends were too solid and made her unwieldy and hard 
 to steer. We then tried her again, and were at length re- 
 warded by a perfectly successful voyage both ways. One 
 of yesterday's hippos was found under the opposite bank, 
 and cut up and the meat brought back in the canoe. It was 
 in good condition, and the fat was a windfall. I also shot 
 a goose. 
 
 We now began to ferry over the loads, first four, afterwards 
 six at a time. We were only able to make five trips the first 
 day, the men wasted so much time. Africans are slow in brain
 
 SECOND EXPEDITION 155 
 
 and action, never ready, and can seldom do anything in the 
 nick of time. Their intelligence is of a low order ; but one 
 has to make the best of them and be patient. But though our 
 progress was slow, I was pleased that I had at length made a 
 success of my canoe. 
 
 The next day we got on much better, the men being 
 quicker and wasting less time, and we got all the remaining 
 loads across, with the exception of my tent and personal effects. 
 I then went over myself and piled the loads properly, and 
 prepared camping - ground ready for pitching my tent the 
 following day. The only thing that bothered me now was how 
 we were going to get the donkeys across ; but fortunately the 
 river was falling again, and was altogether about 2 feet lower 
 than when we first arrived. 
 
 The following morning I struck my tent, and sent it and 
 my kit across ; but, with the incomprehensible stupidity peculiar 
 to the negro, the men this time allowed the canoe to be carried 
 down and nearly wrecked on a rocky promontory where the 
 stream was very rapid. However, after much annoying delay 
 they got back and took the boys across, I afterwards crossing 
 myself, and finally the other men were fetched. Owing to the 
 unnecessary delay caused by the careless apathy at the first 
 voyage, it was noon by the time I got over. Then, after 
 pitching my tent and putting things in order, I went to the 
 drift, which was some distance up stream, at the far end of the 
 islands, to see if it would be possible to cross the donkeys there. 
 Juma, my second gun-bearer, being a good swimmer, made the 
 attempt first, and got on to the island all right without getting 
 out of his depth, though the water in the first narrow channel 
 was very strong. I found we could get over to the island, and 
 that it would be possible to pull the donkeys through the big 
 channel (as we had done on my previous journey) with the 
 rope. Besides, the river was now falling every day, and, 
 though this troublesome and ticklish business was yet to 
 come, I felt greatly relieved that our goods and chattels
 
 156 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 were now all safely ferried over, for it was anxious work 
 watching each boat-load being paddled hard through the rough 
 and rushing water. Some of our meal got wet, for the 
 water used to come in over the weather-side as the men plied 
 their paddles with all their might, but nothing was seriously 
 damaged. In the afternoon I saw a rhinoceros drinking on 
 the opposite bank. 
 
 On the morrow, having sent word to Abdulla to send the 
 caravan on and follow the day after with the donkeys, I went 
 out to look for elephant spoor, starting early and following the 
 river down. But though we went farther than we had ever 
 reached in our hunts on the other bank, we found no fresh and 
 very little old spoor. This was probably owing to the bush 
 being generally more open on this side in that direction, and 
 for the same reason there was more game of other kinds here, 
 namely a good many waterbuck, some walleri, and a few lesser 
 koodoo. I also saw a pair of the larger and handsomer kind 
 of jackal. Hippos were numerous, of course, and I shot one 
 which I came upon lying in shallow water at the mouth of a 
 small tributary. Though I had not molested any of the other 
 game we saw, I did not let this chance slip, because it was in 
 such an easy position to get at, and, as I succeeded in shooting 
 it in the brain with my Lee-Metford, it remained where it was. 
 Unfortunately it proved to be in very low condition, so that it 
 was not of much use. I also saw the carcase of one, which I 
 had shot before but failed to find, close to the bank on the 
 other side, being eaten by crocodiles. Some were tugging at 
 it in the water, while many of the hideous and repulsive brutes 
 lay basking, open-mouthed, on banks or snags near by. At 
 some points on the banks, in this part of the Tana, are little 
 patches of dense leafy thicket growing by the water's edge. I 
 looked wistfully at these shady retreats, which seemed so 
 enticing, in the burning heat, to one suffering from fever 
 (as I was then) ; and I sometimes felt as if I should like 
 to take up my abode in one of them, within arm's reach
 
 VII SECOND EXPEDITION 157 
 
 of the cool, inexhaustible flood, instead of facing the toil- 
 some journey before me through the parched and thirsty tracts 
 ahead. 
 
 It struck me now that I had not made the most of my 
 opportunities on the south bank of the river ; but as there 
 seemed little chance of finding elephants on this side, and it 
 was now too late to return to hunt on the other, I set to work, 
 while waiting for my caravan, to weigh and adjust the donkey- 
 loads, it being most important to have each pair (one for each 
 pannier) exactly the same weight. While doing this rather 
 trying work in the burning sun, on an empty stomach (a bad 
 thing), I got a fresh touch of fever. However, I could not 
 afford to be ill now ; so, though feeling fit for nothing and my 
 head very painful, I disregarded the attack and worked it off. 
 The morning my men were to arrive, I went up stream a little 
 way to shoot a hippo for them. My first shot passed just over 
 one's head, but the second got it, as I could see by the way it 
 turned over. So, returning to camp, I kept a look-out, and in 
 two or three hours I saw it coming floating down. Singing 
 out to the men, several of them plunged into the river with a 
 rope to meet it, and, before it got far past the landing-place, 
 succeeded in making fast to it ; but in trying to haul it in the 
 rope broke. Luckily, though, it got stranded in shallow water 
 near the bank a little lower down ; and, being a fat cow, it 
 came in particularly handy ; for my men from Mtiya's had just 
 arrived opposite, so that, on their being ferried over later on, 
 all hands were made happy. 
 
 It only now remained to cross the donkeys, which arrived 
 next day. We, on our side, made our way over to the top 
 island, to do which we had to ford several channels. The first, 
 where the current was very strong, we crossed by the aid of a 
 rope stretched across and made fast at each end (even then it 
 was no easy matter, as the bottom was all boulders) ; another 
 was up to our necks, but with hardly any current and a better 
 bottom. Having arrived on the bank of the main channel, the
 
 CHAP. VII SECOND EXPEDITION 159 
 
 men with the donkeys being ready opposite, a Hght cord with 
 a stone at the end (the other being attached to a stronger rope) 
 is thrown from the last boulder and caught by those on the far 
 side with a pole. It is just as much as we can do to get it 
 over. Having got hold of it they haul the rope through till 
 they have enough to make fast to a donkey's neck, we on our 
 side keeping hold of our end. A noose, neither too tight nor 
 too loose, has to be tied, so that it does not choke the animal 
 and yet will not let its head through, while the knot must be 
 one that will not slip and can be readily undone. Then I give 
 the word : the donkey is thrust by main force into the torrent, 
 and, as soon as it is launched out of its depth, we haul away, 
 hand over hand. For the first few yards it swims with its head 
 above water ; but, as soon as it gets fairly into the rapid, the 
 boiling water forces it under, and we pull away might and main 
 to get it through as quickly as possible. In a few seconds it 
 reappears close to our bank and is got out, with all despatch, 
 among the rocks, none the worse for its ducking. So we go 
 on, working hard, until, one after another, we get them all 
 through. In this we succeed without mishap this time ; though 
 on a former occasion, the last donkey, finding himself alone, 
 had plunged in, without the rope, to try and swim over to his 
 companions, and was carried down the rapids to the cataract 
 below and never seen again. Then they had to be got through 
 the other channels, w'hich also entailed much trouble and hard 
 work ; for donkeys unaccustomed to travelling will not face 
 water at all, though they get used to it in time, and after some 
 practice will cross rivers with little trouble. As with oxen, 
 there is generally one among them that usually takes the lead ; 
 and, with a herd of seasoned travellers, on this one being taken 
 through, the others follow. It took us the whole day before 
 we finally got all safely over to the far side and down to 
 our camp. The animals were mostly looking fat and well, 
 though one or two were evidently sick. Two or three had 
 already died, but I had calculated on losing some, as, what
 
 l6o ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 with " fly " and other risks, some deaths are always to be 
 expected. I felt thankful that we were at last ready to 
 trek once more. It having now served our turn, we sent 
 our good ship adrift, knowing that it would be rotten before 
 we returned. 
 
 We did not get off very early the next morning, having so 
 many pack-donkeys with new pads and " sogis " to load for the 
 first time ; but it did not matter, as the stage was only a shor 
 one to the first of several small rivers — tributaries of the Tana, 
 from the Jambeni hills — that have to be crossed. They are 
 all fordable, but the loads have mostly to be carried over by 
 the men, to avoid getting them wet. I found that I had, 
 luckily, calculated almost to a pound the quantity of food we 
 should require ; and, on starting from the river, all hands had 
 ten days' rations, while of the twenty donkeys seventeen carried 
 food. 
 
 It takes a long time packing a lot of donkeys, and it is a 
 bad plan to start the caravan before they are all ready. I 
 found it took about an hour and a half from the time the men 
 were called till we could actually get off; so I used to blow 
 my cartridge-case^ at 3.30 or 4 A.M., according to the nature 
 of the country. Under the equator, the dawn first begins per- 
 ceptibly about 5, and if the going was fairly passable I used to 
 start then ; but in very rough and bushy ground a little more 
 light is necessary, in which case 5.30 is early enough. With 
 a morning moon, and in decent ground or on a path, one may 
 start at any hour. It is most important to get off as early as 
 possible ; for in the cool of the morning the men do not feel 
 the work, while after i i o'clock the sun gets very powerful, 
 and every half-hour then tells on them more than an extra 
 hour before sunrise. 
 
 I had intended taking a path used by Wakamba hunting 
 
 1 An empty cartridge-case (I found a long .450 the best) is the most handy and 
 serviceable call you can use in the " bara," whether to arouse the camp in the morning 
 or to signal to your gun-bearers in the bush. It is easily carried, can be replaced if lost, 
 may be heard a long way, and does not alarm game.
 
 VII SECOND EXPEDITION i6i 
 
 and trading parties, which strikes direct for the northern ex- 
 tremity of the Jambeni range and so down to the Gwaso Nyiro 
 River, avoiding the detour by Laiju, and we tried to follow it. 
 It leaves the other at one of the rivers already mentioned. On 
 coming down towards this stream, I saw a giraffe, actually in 
 our camping-ground on the other side ; but it made off before 
 I could get within shot. Barring a few waterbuck, one sees 
 little game about here — the bush is too thick, — though there 
 are plenty of rhinos, and occasionally elephant spoor may be 
 seen. Our attempt to follow the new route was a failure, and 
 lost us a day. The path had not been used for a long time, 
 and, except where now and again a cut twig showed that 
 human beings had passed at some former time, was indis- 
 tinguishable from the game-tracks. Eventually we lost it, and 
 had to retrace our steps. This was annoying, particularly as 
 " fly " is very numerous here, so that for the sake of my animals 
 I was anxious to get through as quickly as possible. But the 
 great thing is to bear all mishaps philosophically in Africa ; so 
 I made the best of it and had to go via Laiju a^ain. The 
 latter is a very disagreeable route ; for, though the bush gets 
 thinner as the hills are approached, the grass becomes very 
 rank and troublesome to get through. I couldn't help thinking 
 what marvellous ingenuity seems to have been employed in 
 devising all manner of disagreeable products, in endless variety, 
 apparently designed for the express purpose of making one 
 uncomfortable. Burrs and spiky seeds, of the most wonder- 
 fully insidious kinds, some like small bristles with tiny barbed 
 arrow-heads, warranted to penetrate through anything ; ticks 
 and all kinds of abominations, not to mention the grass itself, 
 which is covered with irritating rasping hair. " Truly," I wrote 
 in my diary, " this country is prolific in means of torturing the 
 traveller." 
 
 However, I will not weary my kind reader with more details 
 of these uninteresting marches. The number of my donkeys 
 was reduced somewhat, as one by one they succumbed to the 
 
 M
 
 1 62 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 effects of the " fly " we had come through ; the numerous streams, 
 too, caused much delay and trouble with the pack-animals ; 
 but, when once the point of the Jambeni hills is weathered, the 
 country becomes more open and the grass less rank, and from 
 there onward it is healthy for them. It is also less tiresome 
 to travel through, though the marching is rendered very arduous 
 by the rough lava rock which strews the ground. It would be 
 quite impossible for the porters to carry their heavy loads over 
 such ground with bare feet, for even one's own get sore ; but 
 with sandals of game hide, and travelling slowly, they do not 
 suffer. In some parts, too, game is plentiful now, and I was 
 able to get meat for the caravan. Between the last of the 
 streams and the end of the range especially, I saw great 
 quantities of game. Here the grass had been burnt in the open 
 plains, which was a great comfort for walking, though the air 
 was often filled with smuts, making one's eyes sore. In places 
 the young green grass was springing, and this had attracted 
 the game. The smaller zebra were in hundreds, and I saw 
 a good-sized troop of elands, perhaps thirty — a sight I had 
 not seen for years and a pleasant one ; I also saw a little 
 lot of giraffe, and counted eight rhino within quite a short 
 distance. There were a few Grant's gazelle, too, one of 
 which I shot. As this was a waterless march, though, I did 
 not attempt to kill more meat for the men, as it only makes 
 them thirsty under such circumstances. It is rather hard 
 to say why the rhino should collect in the burnt ground : 
 perhaps they find roots or bulbs to eat, or it may be merely 
 for the sake of company that they follow the other game. 
 Lions were to be heard at night, as a consequence of the 
 abundance of zebra. 
 
 I had some anxiety now about my donkeys, fearing lest they 
 might all, or nearly all, die, and so upset again my plan for 
 visiting Rudolph. But I comforted myself with my favourite 
 motto — " Whatever is, is best," — feeling that I had done all I 
 couldj though it was heart-rending to see them dropping off one
 
 VII SECOND EXPEDITION 163 
 
 by one. " My beautiful ' pundas ' ^ are looking so well too," I 
 wrote, " sleek and fat, and not one touched on the back ! It is 
 too cruel to lose them like this, after all my care." However, 
 I did not lose many more, and, when they once stopped dying, 
 I felt hopeful, as I knew all that had not become inoculated 
 with the " fly " poison were now safe. 
 
 This time I went down into the crater, already mentioned 
 in connection with the previous journey as being one of the 
 camping-places on this route. We pitched our camp in the 
 wide road — like an artificial cutting through its edge — by 
 which it is entered, and I descended into the great cup-like 
 interior. The pool had plenty of water in it now, and, by 
 digging out a little spring in the mud close to its edge, a good 
 supply of fresh water could be obtained. On our return 
 journey, though, after a long dry spell, the pool was nearly 
 dry, and what water was left in it was red, as if mixed with 
 blood. The spring then gave out but a feeble trickle, and 
 would, I should suspect, fail altogether if the drought continued. 
 There is always a gale blowing here, and as pegs cannot be 
 driven, one's tent ropes have to be weighted with many heavy 
 boulders to make it stand securely. Even at the bottom of 
 the deep circular crater, where one would think no breath of 
 wind could reach, tremendous gusts and eddies sweep round, 
 now one way and now another, carrying away one's clothes if 
 you should have undressed for your bath there in order to save 
 the men the toil of carrying so much water up the long, steep 
 ascent. Baboons seem the only creatures that inhabit the basin, 
 though I saw what I took to be a klipspringer on the top of the 
 high rim. 
 
 I again, after crossing the Gwaso Nyiro, took the route 
 through the pass under the mountain called Gwargess (at the 
 southern end of the Mathews range) in the hope of getting 
 news of elephants in that district. But they had already left 
 the neighbourhood, which they only frequent during the rains ; 
 
 ' tjwahili for donkey.
 
 i64 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 so we passed on, after getting out of the gorge (not without 
 considerable trouble with the pack-animals, owing to steep 
 paths and thick bush), towards my favourite preserve under 
 the Lorogis. 
 
 We found the country less dry than usual this year, owing 
 to the rains having been exceptionally heavy. This is, of 
 course, an advantage, in that the water difficulty becomes 
 somewhat abated ; but the rank growth of grass induced by a 
 copious rainfall makes walking very much harder work, parti- 
 cularly for those in front, and thus renders travelling in a 
 pathless country — as this region is, practically, from Laiju 
 northward to Reshiat — much more tedious. Game is by no 
 means plentiful everywhere, in this part of Africa. It is 
 generally much scattered, and sometimes long stretches hold 
 hardly any. But here and there one comes on a patch where 
 it is abundant, being attracted by young grass or some such 
 favourable conditions. Thus in one place, where there was 
 young green grass, we passed through thousands of zebra, 
 chiefly Grevy's, and also saw a herd of giraffes and a few 
 elands, as well as one or two rhinos, in the same neighbourhood, 
 and heard the zebra crying all night. I had at this time a fit 
 of bad shooting, such as sometimes attacks me. It is very 
 much a matter of health, as affecting one's nerves, I think ; 
 and the cause of the bad shots is generally a tendency to flinch. 
 In this way, I am ashamed to say, I lost several wounded 
 animals at this time, among them a rhino, entirely through bad 
 shooting. 
 
 One day, while on the march, one of these blustering 
 beasts came unpleasantly near me while I was, for once, un- 
 armed — my boy at the time carrying my rifle. It charged up 
 to within two or three yards of me, but stood then, — I stooping 
 the while behind a bit of a shrub, ready to dodge, — and 
 Shebane (my boy;, who was some distance behind, chucked 
 down everything, including my magazine rifle, and bolted. 
 The rhino, however, after pausing a moment on the other side
 
 VII SECOND EXPEDITION 165 
 
 of my tuft of bush, turned off, much to my relief; for a 
 butterfly - net is not an altogether satisfactory weapon with 
 which to receive the onslaught of an evil-tempered rhinoceros. 
 Luckily my rifle was not hurt, but a piece was knocked out of 
 the stock of Shebane's own carbine. After this I broke the 
 spell by killing, with a long shot, a Grant's gazelle, after a 
 difficult stalk, which was especially satisfactory as I was feeling 
 tired and unwell at the time. I thus regained my confidence, 
 which is everything. 
 
 As on my former journey, the country got greener and the 
 climate more humid as we neared the Lorogi Mountains. We 
 found the little river Seya flowing strongly with muddy water ; 
 and a thunder-shower, on the afternoon of the day we crossed 
 it, showed that the weather we had experienced the year before 
 near the range was no exception, but that the climate is really 
 damper there than elsewhere. A short march from the Seya 
 took us to my old hunting-camp at the little stream of El 
 Bogoi. On the way we were delayed about an hour by a 
 stroke of luck. While marching, in the early morning, through 
 cactus tree bush, — the thick grass still laden with moisture, and 
 the dewdrops shining in the newly- risen sun, — we came 
 suddenly right upon a pair of rhinos. The breeze was in our 
 faces, so they had not scented us, while the low sun, being on 
 our backs, prevented such purblind creatures from seeing us. 
 I had previously warned the men to be quiet, on the chance of 
 seeing game (though it was giraffe I had in my mind), as I 
 was particularly anxious to get meat for them at the end of 
 this stage of our journey. So, being meat hungry, they had 
 made no noise, and the rhinos, still intent on feeding, did not 
 hear our approach. I had only got a glimpse of them, round 
 the corner of a clump of bush, before I drew back and held up 
 my hand for the porters (who understood the meaning of the 
 gesture) to stand still, while I seized my Lee-Metford and 
 sneaked forward. I shot one, knocking him down on the spot ; 
 but I gave him two more bullets to make sure, being anxious,
 
 1 66 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 after recent failures, not to risk any chance of his getting off. 
 This most opportune supply I regarded as a happy omen, and 
 the men were joyful, carrying off almost every scrap of meat 
 on the top of their loads, for the beast was fat. I also saw 
 some giraffe not far from my camp, but was satisfied with what 
 the gods had already sent us.
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 
 
 Comfortable quarters — Among old Ndorobo friends — A favourite elephant haunt 
 — Bag a giraffe — Lost in the bush — A deceitful guide — A grateful recompense 
 — Native jealousy — -Travelling elephants — A pair of lovers — Camp by the 
 Seya River — The Mathews range — Kill five elephants — A malarious climate — 
 Up the Barasaloi River — A marvellous sight — Abundance of elephants — An 
 exciting hunt — A narrow escape — A good day's work. 
 
 I FELT in great spirits at getting back to my old, jolly camp 
 in this most interesting country, and very hopeful of success 
 among the elephants again this year. We had passed, on our 
 way, two or three pretty recent trails of herds, though we saw 
 no signs of feeding. The vegetation was, as usual here, quite 
 green, and the weather evidently very wet on the mountains. 
 My camp was much overgrown ; the shade tree, with its 
 canopy of creepers, more verdant than ever ; and the skeleton 
 of my old shed was covered with beans in pod, which had 
 sprung up where some, which we had stored in it, had been 
 spilt, and crept all over its framework. I soon had the place 
 cleaned up, and made things comfortable in this favourite 
 camp of mine ; and Shebane laid my table, decorated with a 
 bowl of flowers picked from the brooklet's banks, in the cool 
 and pleasant bower that formed my dining-room, I decided 
 to send the bulk of my caravan, under Abdulla, back to 
 Mthara (near Kenia) for more food, while I hunted the district ; 
 but they were to halt one day here, first, to rest their feet and 
 run up a new shed and make a boma for the donkeys, which
 
 1 68 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 were to remain here. All hands were satisfied and as cheerful 
 as possible. During the afternoon an Ndorobo turned up and 
 told us where my old friends were camped. 
 
 The first thing to do now was to get hold of my old 
 Ndorobo friends, so I sent Squareface, my gun-bearer and 
 interpreter, to hunt them up, while the shed was building for 
 storing my goods. It being very nearly completed, the second 
 day I sent off Abdulla, with most of the men (keeping only 
 twelve with me), for Mthara, to buy and bring on as much 
 food as they could carry. I also hoped he might manage to 
 buy a few more donkeys, to replace those that had died ; for I 
 had only fifteen left now, the last of the sick ones having just 
 succumbed. I had hoped that this one would have recovered, 
 but now every one that had showed symptoms of being " fly- 
 stuck " was dead. I calculated that Abdulla could not get 
 back here under a month, and I meant to employ my time in 
 hunting during his absence. 
 
 The day the caravan started, Squareface returned with 
 Lorgete, one of my Ndorobo friends, but Lesiat (the most 
 important one) did not come, his camp being in another 
 direction, Lorgete said that he and his people were, as 
 usual, starving, and he had not even any honey to bring 
 me. He had killed no elephants since I was here, though 
 Lesiat, he informed me, had slain two ; but he said that there 
 was a herd of bulls still about. I arranged with him that I 
 would meet him the day but one after, at one of my old hunting- 
 camps, which was in the direction in which he said the elephants 
 were, and that in the meantime he was to get precise news of 
 their present whereabouts. So, after finishing the thatching of 
 the shed and storing my goods in it, I moved on there, leaving 
 two or three men in charge of the stores and donkeys. 
 
 After pitching camp in the same spot whence I had done 
 some hunting the year before, I took a stroll in the afternoon 
 in the hopes of seeing giraffe. But though I searched in what 
 had been a favourite haunt the year before, they seemed to
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BO GO I 169 
 
 have deserted it now, for I could not even find any spoor. I 
 thought it strange that there was still no news from Lesiat, and 
 began to suspect that Lorgete had not really sent him word, 
 as he had promised to do, of my arrival. I, however, took no 
 further steps then to ascertain ; and, on Lorgete coming in the 
 morning to show me his elephants — though not what I call 
 early (by which I mean before it is fully light) — we went out. 
 He took me a long tramp, more towards the Seya River than I 
 had ever known elephants to be before, and we found none 
 to-day. We saw a little spoor of odd ones, but did not follow it, 
 as we were hoping to find the herd. It seldom pays to follow 
 single elephants, as they go on, as a rule, till they find their friends, 
 it may be far away. 
 
 In the afternoon we saw some giraffe towards the river, 
 on a lower level than we were, standing in a peculiar kind 
 of jungle, composed, not of thorny bushes, but of spreading 
 clumps of a sort of shrub with long, thin interlacing stems. 
 I managed, with considerable difficulty, to stalk to within fair 
 shot of them, having to descend a stony, scrubby hillside ; 
 but the jungle was high enough to cover the greater part of 
 their bodies, so that I could not see the vital spots. I was 
 particularly anxious to get meat for the sake of my guides, 
 for though I had given Lorgete some food to take home for his 
 children, he and his companions said they were hungry, and 
 that they had not strength to go after elephants until they had 
 had a good feed of meat. They always do say that. So I 
 tried to shoot one, but, to my disgust, only succeeded in wound- 
 ing it, on account of the difficulty of judging through the foliage 
 where the proper spot to shoot at was. In long jungle it is 
 generally best to shoot a giraffe in the neck ; as, if the bullet 
 strikes the vertebrae, it of course drops on the spot. Un- 
 happily, I did not do that in this case, and the giraffe went 
 off badly hit. I hoped still to bag it, though ; but following a 
 little way, without, however, sighting the wounded beast again, 
 we suddenly came upon one in thick scrub, quite close. At
 
 I70 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 first I supposed it to be the one we were following, but on killing 
 it — dropping it at once with two shots in quick succession — I 
 found it was another, as it had no other wound. The two .303 
 bullets were found under the skin on the far side, having passed 
 through diagonally, and either would have been fatal. 
 
 As the giraffe was very fat, my men were keen to cut it all 
 up, and I got tired of waiting for them and had hard work to 
 get them away at all. By the time we did start, carrying as 
 much meat as we could and leaving more to be fetched the 
 next day, it was late in the afternoon, and we had far to go ; 
 so that, when we reached a hill near which Lorgete was living 
 at the time, it was already dusk. He wanted to turn off home 
 here, but I objected, feeling sure we should get wrong in the 
 dark, as it was all dense bush, and we did not know that part of 
 the country well, though we could keep our course well enough by 
 daylight. However, Squareface was so confident of finding the 
 way all right, that I foolishly yielded and allowed the Ndorobo 
 to go his way. The result was, that, as soon as it got dark, 
 we very quickly lost ourselves. Now there was a very deep, 
 narrow gully, with precipitous sides, which we had to cross, and 
 it wound about and had many ramifications, the bush being 
 particularly dense all about it. We failed to hit the right 
 crossing-place in the dark, and then, having, with great labour, 
 struggled through, found ourselves, apparently, hopelessly en- 
 tangled in a maze of deep dongas ; whichever way we tried, we 
 came upon an impassable chasm, looking most appalling in the 
 dark. It ended in our having to cross and recross, with much 
 struggling and scrambling, several such ; and, after tearing our 
 clothes and selves to pieces, and messing about half the night 
 saturated with the cold dew, we at last got to camp, draggled, 
 tired and worried, about midnight. After cleaning my rifles 
 as usual, and having a bath, I had a little dinner about i A.M. 
 
 I found that one of my men had come over from El Bogoi 
 bringing with him one of Lesiat's Ndorobos. This man told me 
 that Lesiat had not heard of my arrival ; he also said that
 
 VIII EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 171 
 
 there were lots of elephants not far from El Bogoi, and many 
 too now at Barasaloi. This was news indeed, and revealed the 
 whole of Lorgete's little game. He had been deliberately 
 humbugging me, in order that I might shoot meat for him 
 alone, and get nothing whatever myself. On the strength of this 
 information I at once decided not to go out again, as had been 
 arranged with Lorgete, but to send at once for Lesiat. So I 
 despatched Squareface early to fetch him, while Juma went 
 with the rest to fetch the remainder of their giraffe meat ; and, 
 when Lorgete came, I told him I was going to move the next 
 day to near Lesiat's. Towards evening, Squareface returned 
 alone. Lesiat and his people were away in the bush looking 
 for two elephants which had been wounded by his men a 
 couple of days before. His wife said she would send him word 
 that I had come back, and that he was sure to come as soon as 
 he heard. It was truly provoking that, all through the greedy 
 jealousy of that humbug Lorgete, the elephants had now been 
 disturbed, while I was already in the neighbourhood. 
 
 After considering what was best to be done, I decided to 
 move, the day following, back to El Bogoi, but higher up the 
 stream than my permanent camp. So in the morning I moved 
 to a place I had spotted the year before as a nice and con- 
 venient one to camp at, near where I had shot a giraffe ; and, 
 just after we got there, Lesiat and his pal turned up, having 
 gone to our just vacated camp and followed our spoor thence. 
 He told me that there were lots of elephants all through from 
 there to Seya, but he wanted to go home first and send out 
 men to prospect. I was impatient to hunt, though, so he agreed 
 to stay himself to go out with me in the morning, and I made 
 him happy with lots of my giraffe meat. I spent the after- 
 noon in talking to him, as I was unwell and feverish. He told 
 me that he had killed one bull and two cows since I left, and 
 had kept the ivory for me. He afterwards faithfully delivered 
 over the teeth of the bull (a fine pair) and of one cow, though 
 I never asked for them. This was the result of the charm he
 
 172 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 had forced me to give him, which had clearly given him every 
 satisfaction. I may here say, that if any aspirant would like 
 me to use my art as a magician to enable him to become a 
 successful elephant-hunter, I shall be pleased to do business on 
 similar terms. I, however, made it up to my honest friend in 
 other ways ; indeed I gave him far more in the end than he 
 would have got from Swahili traders for the ivory. 
 
 Early next morning I went out with Lesiat and his chum, 
 who had slept in my camp, going up stream in the direction 
 of the range. But I soon found, from my old friend's manner, 
 that he knew the herd (all old bulls) had left this part, and 
 that he had been only gassing yesterday. So we sat down and 
 had the inevitable " shauri," with the result that I let him go 
 home to send out search parties in various directions, with the 
 object of obtaining authentic information as to the present 
 whereabouts of the game we sought. He also promised to 
 keep me supplied with men every day to accompany me 
 hunting. It is always a great advantage to have one or two 
 of these people with one, as they know every inch of the 
 country, and are better up to spooring, etc., than one's own 
 followers. On the way back I took a short round across the 
 stream, but saw no spoor newer than the night but one before, 
 and that only of a few travellers. I felt most uncharitably 
 disposed towards Lorgete ; for it was too disappointing that, 
 when the conditions were so favourable, everything should have 
 been upset all through his jealousy in keeping the news of my 
 arrival from Lesiat, while at the same time making me believe 
 that he had sent him word. There was nothing for it now but 
 patience, anyway for a day or two. In the meantime I made 
 arrangements with Lesiat's son-in-law (Baithai by name) to 
 send to the Barasaloi in search of elephants, and, failing to find 
 there, down the Seya towards El Gereh, and to bring me back 
 the news. 
 
 In spite of being very unwell, with fever hanging about 
 me, I could not rest, so went out again the following dayj
 
 VIII EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 173 
 
 starting early as usual, and met Lesiat, by appointment, at 
 the foot of a koppie where we had parted yesterday. We had 
 crossed the spoor of a single elephant not far from camp, but 
 not fresh ; and farther on had seen what we took to be the 
 fresh spoor of two or three others, in the dewy grass. We 
 went back to inspect the latter, but only to find that it was 
 rhino spoor. We then went on again, striking straight through 
 the dense bush which stretches for miles and miles along the 
 foot of the mountains, and covers all the flat country towards 
 the Seya. After a time we struck the last night's spoor of a 
 few travelling elephants. W^e followed it a long way, but, as 
 they showed no signs of feeding, I at last turned campwards 
 — for I was feeling very unwell and hardly able to drag one 
 leg after another, — telling Lesiat to send me news the next 
 day. 
 
 This sort of thing went on for two or three days more. I 
 hunted assiduously, but the only spoor we could find was that 
 of travelling stragglers, the following of which resulted in 
 nothing but profitless fatigue, for they never fed nor halted. 
 So I became convinced that there was no herd near now ; the 
 elephants had evidently been thoroughly scared and had left 
 the neighbourhood, and it seemed folly to go on toiling about, 
 tearing ourselves to pieces every day and all for nothing. For 
 I had never even been near an elephant yet. As the promised 
 news from Barasaloi had never come, I sent Squareface and 
 Smiler to another Ndorobo camp I knew of, at the foot of the 
 Murkeben hill, which is in the same direction, to make 
 inquiries there ; for I was determined to move somewhere, 
 since I was merely wasting my time where I was. They reported 
 that they had found only an old man in the kraal, all the rest 
 of the community being away in the bush, where they had just 
 killed two giraffe. My men heard, though, that there were two 
 young fellows there who had been sent by Baithai to get me 
 news, and who were coming on to my camp the following day. 
 I hardly believed that they would be able to tear themselves
 
 174 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chai'. 
 
 away while any of the giraffe meat remained ; but, true 
 enough, they turned up as promised. They told me that 
 there were lots of elephants on the Barasaloi, and down the 
 Seya towards El Gereh. This sounded hopeful ; besides, I 
 wanted to go and see the country in that direction, so I at 
 once returned to my head camp and set about making 
 preparations for an excursion of some length, being only 
 too glad to get away from where I had wasted so much time 
 fruitlessly. 
 
 I may mention, in passing, that one night before I returned 
 to my main camp, about 2 A.M., a rhinoceros (probably there 
 were a pair) was making the most curious noises near us, which 
 I described in my diary as "just such exaggerated gruntings 
 and bass squeakings as one might expect from a magnified 
 pig." I had heard bubbling noises before, but not in combina- 
 tion with the other piggish sounds. I suppose this rhino 
 must have been love-making. 
 
 That these blank days have been uninteresting to my 
 reader I make no doubt. I can only say, so were they to me : 
 but, as my object is to give a true account of elephant-hunting, 
 the many weary days of disappointment cannot be altogether 
 left out. But I was soon to have compensation for this bad 
 luck. 
 
 After spending more than a fortnight, since my arrival at 
 El Bogoi, as described, without any success, I started again 
 from my camp there on 27th August 1895, taking my usual 
 hunting outfit and two donkeys carrying food for my men, two 
 or three young Ndorobo natives accompanying us as guides. 
 Our direction was now east-north-east. We camped that day 
 at a good-sized " kurunga " or rock pool, in high open country, 
 having emerged, after several hours' tramp, from the thick bush. 
 We did not see much game, but a good deal of spoor of 
 rhinoceros, zebra, etc. The next morning we soon came to the 
 edge of a pretty deep valley, through which we could see the 
 little river Seya winding with patches of green jungle and
 
 VIII EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 175 
 
 thorn-trees along its banks, a pleasant sight in Africa, where 
 running water is scarce. It was a long, steep, stony descent to 
 get down to it, and took us till well on in the morning. There 
 was a good deal of water in the river at this time, and I noted 
 that it was at this point about 30 yards broad or nearly so, 
 very rapid and perhaps an average of 1 8 inches deep, running 
 towards the north now. I camped, though it was early, in order 
 to go ahead and prospect, as I did not know exactly how 
 near elephants might be found. 
 
 During the afternoon I walked a long way down parallel 
 with the river. I found the valley similar to where we had 
 entered it ; not wide, but pretty straight and even. The river 
 was fringed, for the most part, with belts of thick forest or 
 dense jungle, of varying width, sometimes on one bank, at 
 others on both ; outside this the ground was open, with short 
 grass only, and very dry. I saw a few Grevy's zebra, oryx, and 
 Grant's gazelle, but could not get within shot, though I tried hard. 
 On the way back I entered the thick bush bordering the river. 
 It was very difficult to get about in, for though the trees, of 
 good size, were not close together, there was a dense under- 
 growth, mostly over one's head, through which it was hard to 
 force one's way, even in the game-paths. I saw and got near 
 a giraffe in this forest, but the covert was so tall at that part 
 that I could not see to get a shot, and I then lost sight of it. 
 Just after this a rhino came suddenly into view in a little open- 
 ing just ahead of me, and, for a second, gave a splendid chance, 
 but he had already scented me and ran just as I raised my 
 rifle, disappearing instantly in the thicket before I had time to 
 fire. Finally I caught sight of the head of the giraffe again, 
 and fired at it, but missed. On rejoining Squareface, whom I 
 had left behind when going after the giraffe, he told me that 
 three rhinos had passed close to him while I was away. We 
 also saw plenty of spoor, so that there seemed to be lots of 
 them there. We got back to camp at dusk, feeling rather 
 disappointed, as I wanted meat badly for all hands and
 
 176 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 especially for my Ndorobo youths, whom, in its absence, I was 
 obliged to feed on our own store of grain, which we could ill 
 spare. Though very tired, I could not sleep much that night 
 for the mosquitoes. They came swarming up from stagnant 
 swamps lower down the river, which breed them both numerous 
 and powerful. I noticed flocks of vulturine guinea-fowl again 
 here. 
 
 The next morning we moved on again down the valley. I 
 kept, purposely, somewhat ahead of my little party, on the look- 
 out for game ; and soon, as I came over a rise overlooking one 
 of the numerous little side valleys we had to cross, I caught 
 sight of several Grevy's zebra straggling slowly along through 
 small patches of cover towards the river. Watching my 
 opportunity when they were for the moment hidden from sight, 
 I ran quickly down so as to cut them off, and got within range 
 by the time the leading one came out into view again ; when, 
 getting a good chance, I shot it, and after a short rush it came 
 down in a cloud of dust. It was fat, and most useful as a 
 meat supply ; for my Ndorobo boys were a tax on my com- 
 missariat, the proportions of which were so exceedingly limited. 
 After this, of course, I got easy chances at oryx and Grant's 
 gazelle, when I no longer needed them. Cutting up the meat 
 delayed us an hour, and, being now so heavily laden, we 
 camped again, early, beside the river ; for, as it was near us 
 all the way, we could choose our time for halting. " What a 
 blessed thing," I put down in my diary, " a running stream 
 is ! " During this day's march we had seen some pretty 
 recent elephant-dung on the game-path we had been following. 
 This looked hopeful. 
 
 So far there was little change in the character or direction 
 of the valley. The Barasaloi was said to join but a short way 
 ahead now. As to El Gereh, which I had always understood 
 to be the name of the swamp in which the Seya ends, the 
 guides assured me that we had already reached it, that name 
 being applied by the Ndorobos to the whole of this swampy
 
 vni EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 177 
 
 valley, from here onward. We had now got pretty close 
 under the Mathews range, which towered up to a considerable 
 height across the valley on our right, and also ahead, where it 
 seemed to shut it in. Continuing on our way down, parallel 
 with the river, the following morning (30th August 1895), 
 after about three hours' marching we stopped for a short rest ; 
 and, shortly after proceeding again, we had arrived at a part of 
 the valley where the bottom consisted of a wide, damp flat, 
 covered with a tall and dense growth of reedy swamp grass, 
 with here and there patches of jungle and thorn-trees and an 
 occasional stagnant pool, while the river wound through all, 
 sometimes approaching the opposite hills, at others near those 
 on our side. I kept my eyes on this, as a likely harbour for 
 the game I was in quest of ; and, sure enough, on topping a 
 little rise which gave me a good view over it, a great black ear 
 caught my eye, among the tops of the thick brake, waving 
 gently with a sinuous kind of motion reminding one of the 
 lazy movement of the fin or tail of a fish lying sleepily poised 
 in the water. I at once halted my little party in a hollow 
 under the stony hills which enclose the valley, and the base of 
 which we had been skirting. Fortunately the wind was right. 
 Leaving the other men with the loads and donkeys, with 
 orders to keep absolutely still, I took my three gun-bearers 
 and two Ndorobo lads, and, making a circuit round to leeward, 
 crossed the river, struggled through the dense brake, and 
 reached the steep bare stony hill on the far side, close to 
 where the elephants had been. I say elephants, for, though 
 only one (or rather a bit of one) had been visible, I felt sure 
 there were more. It was no easy matter making our way 
 through this formidable cover. The height of the grass may 
 be inferred from the fact that, even from the coign of vantage 
 whence I scanned it, only an elephant's ear could be made 
 out ; while it was so dense as to be quite impassable except 
 by the paths made by elephants and rhinos, and even then 
 only with difficulty, as the heavy grass often drooped over the 
 
 N
 
 --; o CO 

 
 cnAi>. viji EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 179 
 
 track, and it was as much as one could do to push aside its 
 stiff stems and rasping blades, while sometimes it was a case 
 of creeping through low tunnels. I was pleasantly surprised 
 to find that the surface of the ground was mostly dry and 
 sandy, the water nourishing the rank growth being evidently 
 below, though in places were shallow pools and wet mud, 
 churned up and pitted with elephant tracks. On climbing 
 cautiously a little way up the hillside, so as to get a view 
 over the flat, we found that the elephant had moved from 
 where we had first seen it ; but we soon spotted it again, a 
 little farther on, standing under a tree. Then, while we 
 watched, it moved into a clump of thorn-trees a little lower 
 down, where the grass was not so thick, and we could now 
 see that there were several. They were, however, on the 
 other side of the river ; that is, the side we had come from, 
 for it made a sweep, from where we had crossed it, over to 
 the foot of the hills on the eastern side of the valley, and the 
 elephants were in the bend. It was therefore necessary for 
 us to recross. 
 
 We accordingly forded the shallow stream again, and 
 forced our way cautiously through the giant grass towards 
 where we had last seen them. The direction of the wind 
 being up the valley, we still had it in our faces. Getting to 
 where the growth was less uniformly luxuriant, we came in 
 sight of two or three, through openings in the grass, some 
 thirty yards ahead ; but, before I could get a shot, a treacherous 
 eddy of air gave them a whiff of our scent, and they started 
 off. Luckily they ran diagonally across our position, and, the 
 ground being sufficiently open to give me a chance, I was able 
 to give one a shot fairly behind the shoulder, with the 10- 
 bore, as she passed. Following, I heard the grumblings and 
 rumblings a dying elephant makes, and, approaching cautiously 
 (as is necessary in such dangerous ground), though at first I 
 could not make her out, after peering about a little I found 
 her lying dead among some bushes. Then, forgetting my
 
 i8o ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 usual cautious tactics in the excitement of our first success for 
 the trip, I foolishly talked exultingly to my men, who had 
 come up, and again alarmed the others, which had been 
 standing close b\- though hidden from us, and thus lost our 
 second splendid chance. Following, however, in their wake, 
 we got close up again to them, standing in the grass jungle. 
 One faced me, and as I tried to get into a position to shoot 
 from, it approached. I waited for it to halt or give me a 
 chance at its chest ; but, instead of stopping, it came on 
 quicker, while its chest was covered by the tall reedy grass, 
 and, when within five or six paces, I felt constrained to fire 
 in its face, and try to get out of sight among the stems of the 
 brake. Luckily the shot turned it. Blood showed on the 
 grass, but we did not follow it at once, going after others 
 instead. I felt it to be unpleasantly risky work in this tangle 
 of tall swamp grass. Impenetrable out of the elephant tracks, 
 and often difficultly so even in them, it was high enough to 
 conceal an elephant entirely unless very very close, and 
 seldom allowed more than the head to be seen even then. 
 Fortunately the wind, which kept pretty steadily in one 
 quarter, came in stiff gusts now and then, drowning the noise 
 one made in forcing one's way through the rustling grass, 
 which also, by its waving about, helped to obscure one's move- 
 ments. Taking advantage of one of these gusts, I crept in 
 near, once more, to a clump of elephants, and succeeded in 
 knocking over a couple more, like ninepins, with the head 
 shot.^ 
 
 As the elephants seemed now to have moved back up 
 the valley, that is down wind, we struck across for the foot 
 of the hills on the west side, so as to get round to leeward 
 
 1 I am afraid this abrupt way of putting it sounds rather like bragging. But these 
 sentences are mostly copied, word for word, out of my diary, in which I jotted down 
 at the time, in as terse a manner as possible, my impression of the incidents, for the 
 purpose of calling the circumstances to mind at any future time ; and they seem to give 
 a truer idea of the occurrences than any more elaborate description, written at this 
 distance, could.
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 
 
 again, and at the same time find out their exact whereabouts. 
 Having made our way to the edge of the jungle, we went 
 along, outside, back to where the caravan was left ; and the 
 men told us that the elephants had passed quite near them, 
 and were just ahead. Feruzi, my cook, was in a great state 
 of excitement, and amused me much by the ardent interest 
 he took in the chase. I got round to leeward of them 
 again ; then went in, and, making the most, as before, of the 
 opportunities when the wind blew strongly, got up to them 
 and dropped one more in the same way, giving another a 
 shot in the ribs as they started off We now crossed over 
 to the opposite hill again, whence we could get a better view 
 over the whole of the valley bottom, and saw some moving 
 about in the brake. Once three came near enough, below 
 our perch on the steep hillside, to give me a chance for a 
 shot with the Lee-Metford ; but while I waited to get the 
 glasses, in order to make out which had the best tusks, they 
 moved away again. Climbing down and following up once 
 more, we got near, but could not see anything for the jungle, 
 which was particularly impracticable at that part, while the 
 wind had died away ; and to creep through a low tunnel in 
 the tangled reedy growth to right under an elephant's nose, 
 when it, being on the look-out, is bound to hear you coming, 
 is not pleasant nor likely to be always healthy. So I 
 hesitated, and they went off again before I could get a shot. 
 In looking for them afterwards, in the direction we had been 
 in before, we came upon another dead elephant, which I had 
 not seen fall, evidently the one I had fired at last. 
 
 It was now near sundown, so I returned to the caravan and 
 determined to pitch camp. On going back over the rise, for 
 that purpose, whence we had first seen the elephant in the 
 morning, we could make out two or three still visible ; but 
 these were on the far side of the swamp, and in a very dense 
 part, so I let them alone. I thought they were cows with 
 calves, which was a good reason for not attacking them ; but
 
 i82 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 I am afraid I was really inclined to shirk it, thinking it not 
 advisable to tempt fate too far. Squareface wanted me to go 
 after them, but I decided to be content with the day's work, 
 though I fear Feruzi was a bit disappointed with me. But, 
 for my part, I felt very pleased with this return of luck, after 
 our want of success at El Bogoi, and hoped this would prove 
 the commencement of good fortune for the trip. I also felt 
 satisfied with m\' shooting ; I had five elephants down, and 
 only one had gone away wounded ; and I had wasted very few 
 cartridges, though I used one or two more, perhaps, than 
 absolutely necessary in finishing off, or rather making sure of, 
 elephants that had dropped ; but that is the safer plan. 
 
 As already stated, my rifles were now a Lee-Metford and a 
 lo-bore Holland. Both had done their work well enough to- 
 day ; but I had not yet acquired thorough confidence in the 
 former, and the discharge of the other was something of a 
 shock, which, though its rubber heelplate prevented from 
 hurting the shoulder, made one's head ache, and knocked one's 
 fingers about cruelly. The volumes of smoke emitted, too, 
 were appalling, and a source of danger ; but its worst defect 
 was that the breech invariably jammed, and the emptx_cases^ 
 stuck, so that they had to be knocked out with a stick. 
 Altogether, I found my prejudices against big guns in no way 
 removed, and regretted more than ever the accident to my 
 trusty and equally effective .577. 
 
 I found a passably good place to camp, just at the edge of 
 the swamp (I call it so, for want of a better name, though it 
 was not really wet), at a point where the river was close to the 
 western side, and just at the foot of the stony, dry hills. Not 
 an ideal spot, but neither was it a bad one, a thorn-tree or two 
 giving fair shade. It is a most important consideration to get 
 suitable camping -ground, close to the water, where one can 
 rest in comfort. I sent at once for some tit-bits and fat from 
 one of the elephants, so as to get it fresh, while I pitched the 
 tent and set things in order myself. I was glad when all was
 
 viii EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 183 
 
 ready, and I could bathe and rest, for it had been intensely- 
 hot work in the dense brake, under a broiling sun, and I was 
 tired. In the evening I arranged for two of my Ndorobo 
 companions to go back with all speed the next day, to call 
 their friends and send word to Lesiat and his clan to come and 
 eat the elephants, that the meat might not be wasted. 
 
 This was the most interesting country I had yet been in. 
 It was perfectly wild — not even any signs of Ndorobo natives 
 about — and quite new, that is, no white man had ever been 
 into the district. In these respects it satisfied my craving 
 for absolutely untouched nature. Ahead, the berg — a part 
 of the Mathews range — loomed up imposingly. It seemed 
 really a big mountain, much higher than I had thought, often 
 cloud-capped, and apparently with " subugo " forest on the 
 top. This mysterious El Gereh swamp, too, which absorbs 
 all these streams, had always had an attractive interest for me. 
 The contrast between the green, damp valley and the dry, 
 barren hills enclosing it is very marked and curious. What 
 crops of bananas and sugar-cane these moist alluvial flats 
 might produce, I could not help thinking, if there were only 
 cultivators ! But the climate is trying — excessively hot and 
 very malarious — and I myself was by no means in the robust 
 health I had enjoyed during the whole of my previous trip. 
 I only wished that I felt better up to the work I made no 
 doubt was before me ; but my appetite was indifferent, and 
 I did not sleep comfortably, and so, of course, my strength 
 suffered. 
 
 I did not get off quite so early as usual the morning after 
 (31st August), not intending to go far, but merely to prospect 
 the country ahead a bit. I took one Ndorobo boy with me, 
 while the other was to remain to show my men yesterday's 
 elephants, for them to take the fat out of (to be used for 
 purposes of light, etc.), the remaining two lads having already 
 started to carry the news of the harvest of meat to their friends. 
 \Vc followed the spoor of the retreating herd of yesterday, up
 
 1 84 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the Barasaloi, which joins the Seya just below where we were 
 camped, here a dry, sandy channel (and nothing can look more 
 desperately parched than a dry stream-bed). Its valley was 
 here narrow, enclosed by steep rocky hills, the bottom of the 
 trough having been evidently filled up with alluvial deposit, 
 forming a level surface between the opposing rocky slopes and 
 crags, under which the water which comes from the Lorogi 
 range must pass, though probably at a considerable depth ; for 
 the stream is too strong just under those mountains, and dis- 
 appears too suddenly, to be wholly accounted for by evaporation, 
 powerful though that is in Africa. 
 
 The valley was lined with patches of mimosa, the trees of 
 considerable size, but without much underwood. As we tramped 
 steadily along on the spoor, we occasionally disturbed a giraffe, 
 which had been browsing on the thorn-trees, or a few oryx, 
 with here and there two or three walleri. These last, when 
 standing with the head up, look singularly like miniature 
 giraffe, but, on commencing to run, the resemblance at once 
 ceases. The head is then lowered, and the long neck stretched 
 out straight in front ; and these, with its lanky legs and slender 
 body, give the animal a very curious appearance as it starts off 
 at a quick trot.^ It is a very wary animal, and one which 
 seldom offers an easy shot. After a time we sat down, for a 
 spell, and considered whether it would be worth while to go 
 farther. My belief was that the herd was trekking for the 
 Lorogi Mountains, for there appeared to be no cover to hold 
 elephants that had been alarmed, besides which I doubted there 
 being any water in this spruit nearer than the foot of the 
 range. However, noticing some big hills ahead, I decided to 
 follow up as far as their base, where, if anywhere, the water 
 would be likely to reach the surface. Plodding on again we 
 came to where the valley curved to the left, and here and there 
 we noticed signs of moisture. Soon after, we entered a rocky 
 
 1 These gazelles have been faithfully represented by the artist, from my descriptions, 
 in the illustration on page 8i.
 
 VIII EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOl 185 
 
 gorge, just above which we found the first pool. Two or three 
 of the elephants had drunk here, but not all. We stopped 
 again, too, for a drink and another rest. We had now been 
 walking about four hours, and I was still doubtful whether to 
 go farther or return to camp. But my Ndorobo boy was 
 confident we should overtake our game if we persevered ; my 
 gun-bearers, too, were keen to go on, and I thought after 
 coming so far it was a pity not to keep on as long as there was 
 any hope of coming up with the herd, so we continued our 
 course up stream. 
 
 Beyond this narrow gorge, which was shut in by high cliffs 
 of red rock, the valley opened out wider, but the hillsides were 
 still of the same bare, dry, stony character. Pursuing our 
 explorations still further, we came to a salt swamp, full of 
 jungle, which, though naturally thick, was mauled, broken 
 down, and trampled by elephants, and cut up by their paths. 
 Hereabouts, too, was plenty of fresh spoor — not merely that of 
 our travellers of yesterday's acquaintance, but of others, which, 
 it was apparent, had been merely wandering at will. As we 
 advanced, the prospect became more and more encouraging, 
 and I felt glad 1 had not been so foolish as to turn back. On 
 the sandy bed now ran a shallow stream ; the swampy jungle 
 bordering it was of much greater extent and denser than 
 hitherto, and where the flats (here much wider) were dry, they 
 were covered with mimosa forest. These, except the large 
 trees, were broken down and wrecked by the elephants, while 
 the bushes and shrubs were distorted and crippled ; in fact, 
 the condition of the bush in this great elephant haunt can only 
 be described as " rack and ruin." 
 
 Still following up the stream, as we turned a corner and 
 came into view of a long, straight reach, bordered on one side 
 by mimosa forest, and on the other by thick leafy scrub of 
 suaki and other bushes, suddenly I descried two or three 
 elephants a long way ahead, standing in the bed of the stream, 
 close to a grove of large mimosa trees. As the wind was
 
 1 86 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chaf. 
 
 blowing up stream and so with us, we at once turned off to 
 the left, and climbed the rugged stony hills in order to make 
 a long detour over them, and so get round above the elephants. 
 As soon as we s:ot on to the first ridge, so as to be able to look 
 down over the valley from its elevation, a marvellous sight met 
 our view. 
 
 Stretched below was a large patch of thorn forest, fairly 
 open, simply filled with elephants standing, mostly in clumps, 
 here and there all through it. These seemed, unluckily, to be 
 mostly cows (some with calves) or young bulls, but the massive 
 forms of one or two big bulls could be distinguished among 
 them. I stood and gazed at this magnificent scene. I had 
 never seen anything like it before, all my experience of 
 elephants having been in dense wood, where it was seldom 
 possible to see more than two or three at a time. Then 
 they began to move slowly about, and we hurried on, over the 
 rough, rocky hills, until we got opposite a part of the valley 
 beyond the herd. It was now about noon, or somewhat past. 
 Having got right round, we descended, and, entering the thorn 
 forest, advanced cautiously towards where we had last seen the 
 elephants (of course we could see them no longer), having the 
 wind now in our faces. But they had slowly strolled up 
 towards us, and, as soon as we got near the spruit, we saw a 
 large herd standing about, some in the stream, some on the 
 banks, loitering and resting. Such a sight I never beheld. It 
 reminded me of pictures in ancient books on South African 
 hunting. In the foreground were some Grant's gazelles and 
 a large Grevy's zebra ; the bush seemed full of vulturine guinea- 
 fowls and francolins; " paa " (kirkii) were everywhere, and here 
 and there one caught sight of a walleri or two making off, 
 while small birds were in clouds. All the teeming life in this 
 oasis was due to the life-giving moisture from the little stream. 
 
 The mimosa trees, at this part, were large and wide-spread- 
 ing, pleasantly shading the ground, which was here free from 
 underwood, and the grass, though thin and scattered, was
 
 vin EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOf 187 
 
 green. As I paused, some of the elephants moved nearer to 
 me in the shallow, sandy stream, drinking and playing with the 
 water. One pair, a cow and a large bull, were evidently 
 making love. The bull fondled his mate with his trunk, and 
 then, standing side by side, they crossed trunks and put the 
 tips into each other's mouths ; an undoubted elephantine kiss. 
 This rather put me off, and I hesitated so long that my gun- 
 bearer crept up to my elbow, as I crouched behind a tree, and 
 whispered, " Bwana, pika " (Master, strike). Indeed, that was 
 what I had come for ; and since I had left the coast (between 
 three and four months ago), I had had no success until now. 
 I was about fifty yards from those nearest me, and, though the 
 ground was quite open between, I daresay I might have got 
 nearer, but some of the elephants were now moving into the 
 dense bush across the stream, so I singled out a bull with 
 beautifully symmetrical and fairly long, though not massive, 
 tusks, and fired at him with my heavy rifle, aiming just behind 
 the shoulder. At the shot he started off, throwing a quantity 
 of water out of his mouth, and I gave him the second barrel 
 before he reached the cover, both, as I thought, about the right 
 spot. Then, seizing the magazine rifle, I gave another elephant 
 a shot just as it was entering the bush. By this time all but 
 one cow had disappeared into the opposite jungle ; she stood 
 some distance off on the far bank, apparently undecided what 
 to do. Though a longer range than I had ever shot an 
 elephant at before, I gave her a bullet (Lee-Metford) about the 
 shoulder-joint ; she staggered, and a second laid her low. 
 
 I will not attempt to give a detailed account of all the 
 incidents of this exciting afternoon's work. I could not 
 remember every particular, even the day after, when I made 
 my entry for this great day in my diary ; moreover, I don't 
 think it would be worth while to put each one down if I could. 
 I had, however, one adventure, which I must describe, that can 
 only be called miraculous ; though whether or not it was what 
 can be classed as " a narrow escape " (a thing I do not care to
 
 1 88 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 cultivate), I know not. We rushed about from then (about 
 I P.M.) till sundown, always following clumps of the enormous 
 herd from one part of the bush to another, mostly in the dense 
 scrub where the ground was wet and often muddy and it was 
 only possible to get about by following the network of paths. 
 The elephants, broken up into small parties, kept moving 
 about, sometimes standing for a little and then dashing off 
 again, but not all leaving the neighbourhood, so that we never 
 had to go very far from where I commenced the attack. Most 
 of the shots were running ones, and I fired a great many more 
 cartridges than necessary — though I doubt if any elephants 
 went away wounded, as it was mostly at those already hit that 
 I wasted my ammunition. I confess I got too excited that 
 day (^contrary to my general practice), and have no doubt that, 
 had I kept cooler, I should have killed more elephants and 
 used fewer cartridges. 
 
 Well, in the midst of this very warm work — the crashing 
 of elephants, stampeding through the thicket, sounding now in 
 one direction and now in another — I had just fired a shot fa 
 good one I believed) at one which passed near me full split, 
 as I ran to try to cut it off along a path, when Squareface 
 called my attention to the noise made by another portion of 
 the herd, forcing its way through the thick jungle on the other 
 side of us. Now, I am deaf of my right ear, and, owing to 
 that, am unable to tell which direction a sound comes from ; 
 consequently, I have to trust chiefly to my attendants as to 
 that. I ran towards the point indicated, as quickly as the 
 zigzag, obstructed passages would allow, ducking sometimes 
 under overhanging boughs, at others jumping over broken 
 branches. I had just come out into a more open narrow path, 
 which ran at right angles to the way I had been coming, as 
 some of the elephants were tearing through the bush just 
 beyond, in a direction parallel with the path I had just got 
 into. I could see the bushes swaying, and a bit of an elephant 
 here and there, as they crashed through, only a few yards
 
 VIII EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 189 
 
 beyond. I stood in the path, facing across it but a httle 
 towards the left, in which direction the elephants I was watch- 
 ing were running ; and had just fired a snap-shot at one I got 
 a chance at, when, immediately, there was an ear-piercing, 
 screaming trumpet, of the shrillest pitch, close to me. It 
 sounded very angry, and I supposed it to be made by the 
 animal I had just wounded, and stood, still gazing in the same 
 direction and trying to make out, among the dust and bending 
 bushes, a mark for my second barrel, when I felt a clap on my 
 back, just under my right shoulder. Turning my head, I found 
 myself face to face with an elephant, its black head and gleam- 
 ing tusks just above me. It must have been running along 
 the path I stood in ; screamed on seeing me in its way ; and, 
 apparently, gave me a tap with its trunk to find out what I 
 was, before making hay or pulp of me : but when I turned my 
 head and looked it in the face, it seems to have become 
 suddenly disconcerted ; for, as I threw up my rifle (and myself 
 back, at the same moment), it sheered off, and, breaking 
 through the bush, tore away after the others. I was not hurt 
 at all, and that is why I conclude it was with its trunk, and 
 not its tusk, that it gave me the pat. 
 
 We had not been able to follow up each elephant I hit at the 
 time. I had got into a hot corner, and had to make the most 
 of it while it lasted. But some we had seen fall, and others 
 we came upon dead while following up the herd. 
 
 Late in the afternoon I killed three big bulls, well ; two of 
 which, together with a smaller one, lay, almost on top of each 
 other, in the mud, where we could hardly get to them without 
 being bogged ; while the third, which had been crossing the 
 stream, fell, to the second shot, just as it got on to the far 
 bank. By sundown we had seen twelve lying dead ; but I had 
 used all my cartridges. We had, however, not found the first 
 bull I had fired at, though I felt sure it must be dead some- 
 where near. I wanted to find this bull, as it had very hand- 
 some tusks, and we spread out to look through the part of the
 
 igo ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 jungle near where I had shot it. In doing so, I came upon 
 two or three elephants standing in a thick place, and had to 
 retreat and go round, leaving them so, for I had not another 
 cartridge for either of the rifles. 
 
 It being now dusk, we started on our long tramp back to 
 camp, without having found my first bull. I did not consider 
 I had done as well as I ought to have (even allowing for one 
 or two elephants we had not found), considering the amount of 
 ammunition expended and the wonderful chance I had had at 
 this great herd in (for Central Africa) comparatively easy 
 ground. But I excused myself, to a certain extent, in that I 
 was out of health, having fever on me and being overwrought, 
 as I never now got a refreshing night nor had a healthy 
 appetite ; and, if it had not been that we kept crossing and 
 recrossing the stream and so could get water frequently, I 
 think the great exertion in the fierce heat would have told on 
 me more than it did ; as it was, I had not felt it much, the 
 excitement, no doubt, helping to keep me up. Moreover, the 
 difficulty of opening my double lo-bore after each discharge 
 and of extracting the empt\' cartridges, hampered me greatly ; 
 and the annoyance and even danger entailed by one's rifle 
 jamming in a hot corner, with elephants' getting up all round, 
 may be imagined. 
 
 We had a good five hours' hard walk before us. Luckily 
 it was full moon. I kept swinging mechanically along at a 
 fast pace, though I felt pretty fagged ; but I knew it was 
 better not to rest. We heard elephants in one patch of bush 
 that we passed on our way. When wfe were getting near 
 camp, our Ndorobo made a mistake about the path. Just in 
 the apex where the two valleys join is a little koppie, connected 
 with the rest of the hills by a low neck. In the morning we 
 had cut this corner, but in the darkness we passed the turn off, 
 went right round the base of the koppie, and then went over 
 the neck by the same way we had gone in the morning, thus 
 getting back into the branch valley again, where we had already
 
 VIII EXCURSIONS FROM EL BO GO I 191 
 
 passed. On the top of the rise we met a single prowling 
 elephant, quite in the open. It spread its ears and bore down 
 straight for us at a run, looking very weird in the moonlight. 
 No doubt it had got our wind and was really running away ; 
 but it came dead for where we were, and it was not a pleasant 
 idea to be run over by an elephant, even by mistake ; so, not 
 having a single cartridge left, as soon as my men started to 
 run for it, I felt constrained to follow suit, and, turning tail, 
 legged it with the best of them. These mishaps lost us 
 perhaps an hour and a half, and added much to my fatigue ; 
 indeed, they were the last straw to my endurance ; so that, 
 when at last we did reach camp at i A.M., I felt dead beat. 
 But it was cheering to find a good camp fire burning, and the 
 iron bucket of water for my bath still boiling away, while my 
 boy and the cook were anxiously looking out for us. I did 
 not, even then, shirk what I always considered m.y first duty 
 after a hunt, namely, to clean my rifles. Then I had a dip 
 in the river, a swill down with hot water, another dip, and then 
 some soup — I couldn't eat — and turned in about 3 A.M. But I 
 was past getting the sleep of the just. We had been hard at 
 it for over eighteen hours, with a lot of running thrown in.
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI {contmued) 
 
 A well-earned rest — An Ndorobo harvest — Keen faculty of natives — A cool retreat 
 — A large rhino — Fourteen elephants in a day's hunt- — Distinctive character of 
 tusks — Trek with ivory to El Bogoi — Resemblance to Robinson Crusoe — 
 Experience as donkey-driver — An unexpected stroke of luck — Overloaded with 
 ivory — Stalking Gazelle — A fictitious report — A handsome pair of tusks — A 
 picturesque group^ — Welcome at El Bogoi. 
 
 As we had only been in bed for about two hours by the time 
 the day dawned, and were all very tired, I decided we had 
 better rest that day ; in fact we were not equal to the long 
 journey to the scene of our yesterday's exploits again so soon. 
 For myself I felt really ill ; for, having had fever on me for 
 some days, I now felt thoroughly used up and sore all over. 
 It is hard lines to be able to get nothing one can face in the 
 food line, when a bit out of sorts ; but Swahili cooking is 
 scarcely such as to tempt a sick man. Besides, good old 
 Feruzi, who always did his best, was put to it for materials, as I 
 was quite unprovided with anything in the shape of " medical 
 comforts." 
 
 That evening a lot of my Ndorobo friends from near El 
 Bogoi turned up, so I arranged for Squareface to go with them 
 the day after, to show them our elephants and see if any more 
 dead ones could be found. Accordingly, in the morning, he 
 went off early with them. I was very unwell indeed, and 
 obliged to stay in camp. In the afternoon I took a stroll 
 down to the junction of the Barasaloi with our river, and sat
 
 CHAP. IX EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 193 
 
 on a hill overlooking the valley beyond, where it bends round 
 to the eastward. Just before coming back, I heard elephants 
 trumpeting, away down stream, where there was extensive scrub ; 
 but it was already sundown and too late to go after them. 
 
 Elephants are often noisy ; and the Ndorobo hunters say 
 that they cannot keep quiet for long. The sounds they make 
 are a great help in approaching them in dense cover, and are 
 taken advantage of by these people when in quest of them, so 
 as to avoid following the spoor if the wind is unfavourable. 
 An Ndorobo, when in the neighbourhood of the game, will 
 listen, with his attention on the strain, till he catches the sound 
 of a puff — as the beast blows through its trunk — a low rumble 
 of its intestines, or a snapping branch — sounds perhaps in- 
 audible to any one else, — and point, with expressive gesture 
 and every silent indication of suppressed excitement and 
 nervous tension, in the direction ; fixing with unerring decision 
 the exact spot in the jungle whence the sound emanates. But 
 the loud cries which are often uttered, and which may be heard 
 a long way off, are the voices of the females and young (more 
 often, probably, of the calves) ; the old bulls, which keep apart, 
 are more silent, and do not give vent, spontaneously, to such 
 undignified noises. The latter are, for this reason, sometimes 
 more difficult to locate. 
 
 Numbers of Ndorobo women and children passed during 
 the day, following the men of yesterday to the harvest of 
 elephant meat. One poor old blind woman was led by a stick, 
 held by the one in front of her. It was wonderful how she 
 could walk ov-er this rough, stony country. Squareface re- 
 turned in the evening, having found only one more dead 
 elephant, which turned out to be the big bull I had first shot 
 at, and which I had felt so confident would be found. We had 
 now accounted for thirteen elephants, mostly bulls, killed during 
 that day's hunt up the Barasaloi. 
 
 1 was feeling so ill the next morning that I sent Juma and 
 another man off to my El Bogoi camp for my medicine chest 
 
 O
 
 194 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chai-. 
 
 (with which title I dignified a cigar-box which contained the 
 {q.\^ simple drugs I carried with me in my expeditions), as I 
 had no more quinine with me. Notwithstanding this, however, 
 I went out to look for elephants down stream. We found 
 spoor of the night before at the junction of the valleys, and, 
 seeing no more lower down, returned and followed it up the 
 Barasaloi. There was only a small lot (probably a portion of 
 the big herd;, consisting of small cows and calves, and they 
 appeared to be travelling ; so I did not follow very far — 
 indeed, I was quite unequal to a long tramp — but returned to 
 camp about mid-day. 
 
 The heat in this confined valley was exceedingly sultry 
 now, and trying to one when weak and out of health ; more- 
 over, I could not tackle the coarse fare of elephant and insipid 
 porridge, so that I was not able to throw off the attack so 
 quickl}' as I usually did a bout of familiar fever. Juma, too, 
 was away longer than I had expected ; but I got so far better, 
 even without the medicine, and so tired of two or three days 
 about camp, that I determined to move on down the valley 
 whether he came or not. Luckily, he turned up the evening 
 before I had arranged to start, so that I w^as able to take my 
 tent, which otherwise we should have been unable to carry. 
 He explained that the cause of his delay was, that, the night 
 he got to El Bogoi, a rhinoceros had charged the donkey 
 kraal, and he had waited to help hunt up and collect the 
 scattered animals. During his absence we had got out the 
 teeth of the five elephants I had killed the first day, near 
 where my camp was, and buried them. 
 
 Then we moved on down the main valley. We travelled 
 on, following the river as much as possible, during the morning, 
 but our progress was but slow. The hills closed in more, and 
 got more rugged as we proceeded ; indeed the valle)- was now, 
 practically, a gorge in the Mathew^s range, and the tops of 
 the m.ountains towered up to a height of probably 3000 feet 
 above the river. But the floor of the valley was still flat and
 
 IX EXCURS/OiXS FROM EL BOGOI 195 
 
 of some width, and was covered, for the most part, with dense, 
 low scrub of a kind peculiar to salt swampy ground. It is 
 composed of a very green, small-leaved shrub, which forms the 
 densest thickets, utterly impenetrable for anything but an 
 elephant, its branches, though thornless, being intertwined and 
 matted together, and presenting a compact, green, wall-like 
 barrier. Even the elephant paths are passable only with 
 difficulty ; for the}' are often mere tunnels, and everywhere 
 stiff, springy branches stick out across them and encumber the 
 ground, tripping one up and making locomotion most arduous 
 and uncomfortable. Elephants do not appear to feed on this 
 kind of bush, and only use these jungles as a retreat when 
 alarmed. We found no fresh spoor, nor even much old ; nor 
 was there any bush of the kind likely to harbour elephants 
 under ordinary circumstances. Indeed the country seemed so 
 unpromising, that about noon, feeling fatigued even with this 
 short march, I decided to camp and send Squareface on ahead 
 to spy out the land before going farther myself; for it seemed 
 useless to push on, with no prospect of finding elephants, while 
 we were, perhaps, leaving them behind us. I was so much out 
 of health that I could not shoot a bit, and had missed two 
 Waller's gazelle during the morning. A few of these were all 
 the game we had seen, besides " paa " (Kirk's antelope), which 
 were plentiful. 
 
 As the heat was excessive, I was anxious to find a shady 
 spot to camp in, and, noticing a thick clump of trees and bushes 
 close above the river-bank, I crept in, with my Ndorobo guide, 
 to examine it, with a view to camping inside. While we stood 
 surveying this nice cool retreat, my companion spied a rhino 
 lying asleep close by — it having chosen the same pleasant 
 shade to rest in that had attracted us. As the meat would be 
 most useful to us and enable us to economise our small supply 
 of meal, and as the beast was, as it were, delivered into our 
 hands, so opportunely, on the very spot where we intended 
 pitching our camp, I shot it at once, giving it two solid bullets
 
 196 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 in the head from my Metford .450 which I was carrying. 
 And, as it floundered about still, and I was determined not to 
 let it move from the spot, if possible to prevent it, I finished 
 up with a couple of shots in the lungs. It was a very big 
 old bull, in poor condition.^ Its measurements were : total 
 length over back from tip of upper lip to root of tail, i i feet ; 
 total length in straight line opposite side, 10 feet; total 
 length over back from tip of upper lip to end of tail, 1 3 feet 
 4 inches ; perpendicular height in straight line at shoulder, 5 feet 
 3 inches. These were carefully taken just after it was shot, 
 and entered accurately at once in my notebook. I sent on 
 Squareface and the Ndorobo at once, to prospect the country 
 ahead, while we formed a snug camp in the spinney (where 
 there was but little undergrowth that needed cutting away to 
 make room for my tent), within a few steps of the carcase, so 
 that the men could conveniently cut up the meat. 
 
 On his return in the evening, Squareface reported that, 
 though they had gone a long way down the valley, they found 
 no spoor nor any sign of elephants whatever, nor even suitable 
 bush. So, seeing n6 chance of doing any good by going 
 farther in this direction, I retraced my steps the following 
 morning (8th September) to the camp I had started from the 
 day before. I had hoped to reach the end of the Seya River : 
 but there can be no doubt whatever that its water does not 
 reach beyond the Mathews Mountains ; for not only did all 
 the natives I questioned assure me that farther there was no 
 water, but Swahili traders who had travelled by a route to the 
 eastward of those mountains told me they crossed no such 
 river there. This is not surprising in Africa, where the evapora- 
 tion is so enormous and the soil so porous, while the rainfall is 
 very fickle, for, on my return journey, I found the Seya with 
 no running water in its bed, even much nearer the Lorogi 
 Mountains, in which its sources lie. 
 
 1 This was a large rhinoceros for Equatorial Africa. In Southern Africa they may 
 possibly run larger. On Lake Rudolph they are much smaller.
 
 IX EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 197 
 
 After getting back to my ivory camp, I had a fruitless 
 search for what turned out to be an imaginary elephant, which 
 one of my men said had passed up on the other side of the 
 stream while he was fetching water. Luckily I was getting quite 
 strong again by that time, and so the extra exertion in that 
 most exhausting cover did me no harm. I felt sure that if I 
 had not been so unwell during the few days succeeding my 
 great onslaught on the big herd, I might have picked up a few 
 more, for some stragglers often hang about a neighbourhood 
 for a couple of days after the main body's retreat. By this 
 time, though, I feared they must all have cleared out of the 
 district. I had entertained great hopes of finding more down 
 the river valley, but, as often happens in such cases, my visions 
 of teeming preserves in that direction proved illusory. 
 
 The next morning I sent off two men to^ fetch a couple 
 more donkeys from El Bogoi, to enable us to carry all the 
 ivory with us on our return thither. I also despatched 
 Squareface, with the rest of the porters, for Barasaloi, to bring 
 as much of the ivory from the elephants I had shot there as 
 they could manage, as by this time the tusks would slip out 
 without any chopping, owing to decomposition. Meanwhile, I 
 sent a couple of Ndorobos to look for spoor up the valley of a 
 small tributary stream coming out of the mountains, while 
 I kept only Smiler to potter about with me, and amused 
 myself shooting a few doves and a guinea-fowl or two, for the 
 pot, with my rook rifle. There were numbers of both (the 
 latter of the vulturine as well as the common kind) frequenting 
 the mimosa groves near the river. The Ndorobos found no 
 signs of elephants being about, but picked up a pair of tiny 
 tusks of a calf which had died long ago, and brought them as 
 an offering to me. Squareface and his men got back late at 
 night, with the tusks of seven of the best elephants I had 
 killed on 31st August. 
 
 The ivory proved better than I had expected. Three of 
 the bulls had tusks of about 50 lbs. apiece, which is about the
 
 198 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 limit of a full-sized " herd-bull's " teeth.^ The rest they had 
 extracted and put together ready to be fetched. The Ndorobos 
 who were up there, eating and curing the meat of those 
 elephants, had found one more, making fourteen in all as the 
 total bag for that day. The one found by Squareface, when 
 he went back the day but one after our shoot, was clearly the 
 first bull I had shot at, as I recognised the teeth, without 
 
 A Good Days Work with Elephants. 
 
 (Prom a Photograph by the Author.) 
 
 doubt, by their shape and general appearance. There is a 
 great deal of character and individuality in tusks ; and I 
 always find I can tell which elephant, of several I may have 
 shot, any pair that is afterwards recovered belonged to. I 
 afterwards photographed, with my hand camera, the results in 
 ivory of my Barasaloi day, piled in front of my tent. 
 
 As Squareface reported that he had seen the spoor of a 
 few elephants coming down the Barasaloi valley, I went with 
 
 ^ By " herd-bulls" I mean the breeding males, such as are found consorting with the 
 herds of cows. The old fellows, with heavier ivory, associate with their peers in separate 
 herds. I infer from these facts that a bull elephant is in his prime when his tusks 
 weigh about 50 lbs. apiece.
 
 IX EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 199 
 
 him the next day to look for them, while the other men went 
 again to bring in the smaller ivory, which had been left the 
 day before. But the spoor proved to be two days old, and it 
 returned up the valley again : he had apparently mistaken 
 some of it for fresh, in the dark, so our search was fruitless. 
 Fortunately I had now recovered my health and was beginning 
 to feel quite my old springiness ; and a great blessing it was 
 to feel well and strong and to enjoy one's grub once more. I 
 had been beginning to fear ill health would spoil my trip, and 
 so was the more pleased to find I was getting back to my old 
 form again. My cook, good old Feruzi, had comforted me 
 considerably by concocting a sort of thin gruel for me in place 
 of the everlasting tea, of which one gets so particularly sick 
 when' suffering from fever, and which it is, I think, by no 
 means wholesome to be continually drinking. 
 
 I was getting impatient to move now, so was very glad 
 when, the following evening, the men I had sent to El Bogoi 
 turned up with two more donkeys and my spring balance. 
 Except when in real need of rest, hanging about camp does 
 not suit me at all, especially in so warm a spot as this was ; 
 for, paradoxical as it may sound, excessive heat is far more 
 trying when you are doing nothing than while marching or 
 hunting. So I set to work at once to pack up the loads, 
 which I could not do satisfactorily till the arrival of the scale 
 enabled them to be adjusted evenly ; and in the morning we 
 started with all our ivory, which was just as much as we could 
 carry, to trek back towards El Bogoi. The party of Ndorobos 
 who had been here, too, were now ready to return to their own 
 district near the Lorogi, and trekked at the same time, all 
 laden with as much dried meat as they could stagger under. 
 My plan was to take some of them with me to hunt in the 
 Lorogi Mountains (after depositing my ivory at my main 
 camp), where I hoped to find a herd of old bulls. 
 
 It took some time to tie up the donkey-loads, so that it 
 was about nine o'clock, on the 12th of September, before we
 
 200 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 at length got off. Two donkeys carried, each, two 80 lb. loads 
 of the smaller ivory, one my tent on one side and bedding, etc., 
 on the other, and the fourth our meal, cartridges, etc., while all 
 the men were loaded up with the larger tusks. I was afraid 
 the ivory loads on the donkeys would be very troublesome, as 
 there had not been time to lash it properly, as it should be, with 
 hide — put on wet and dried on — but to my agreeable surprise 
 it travelled capitally. All hands being heavily laden, I had to 
 help to drive the donkeys myself, Squareface, carrying a big 
 tusk, going before them. Donkeys always require a man in 
 front of them, whom they follow. I felt quite like Robinson 
 Crusoe, as I had to carry two rifles — my .450 slung from my 
 shoulder and the rook rifle in one hand, while in the other I 
 held a switch to drive the donkeys with ; and, to make the 
 resemblance complete, I had what I call Crusoe sandals over 
 my boots. These are inventions of my own, and are most 
 useful in saving one's boots in the interior. They are made 
 of game hide (eland or koodoo is about the best), and, if 
 properly made, are not at all uncomfortable, while they make 
 a pair of boots last quite twice or three times as long as they 
 would without their protection. In driving donkeys the great 
 thing is to make plenty of noise. It is worse than useless to 
 strike them, and should never be allowed. They are quite 
 different from oxen in that way. The use of the switch is to 
 strike the load or saddle, to frighten the donkey, but never 
 the animal itself I have, in former years, driven my own 
 waggon hundreds of miles, and I know a good deal about trek 
 oxen and their ways. As an old Boer once said to me when 
 I was a novice at waggon travelling, " You must give them 
 plenty strips " ; but with the patient ass it is different. It is 
 only since I have been elephant-hunting in Central Africa that 
 I have learnt his peculiarities, and the result of my experiences 
 as a donkey-driver is that you should never hit him. 
 
 As the place where we had to leave the river was too far 
 to reach in one day — and it is the greatest mistake to attempt
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 
 
 too long a march with heavy loads — I wished to do only 
 about half the distance ; and so, about mid-day, I began to 
 look out for a suitable spot to camp. The river here ran 
 through a wide strip of forest, and could not be seen from 
 outside ; so, halting my little caravan, I entered the bush to 
 see how far away the water would be if we stopped where we 
 were. The river proved to be farther away than I thought, 
 but I soon found something that interested me much more, 
 namely, quite fresh elephant dung. The bush, too, was ex- 
 tensive and most likely looking, so I was filled with hope for 
 another successful hunt. I went back at once, trekked some 
 way farther, and then, finding a suitable spot on a little rise 
 in the open, with a tree or two for shade and the river close 
 by, camped. It was by this time fully one o'clock, and as I 
 had to see things put straight, etc., and believed that, with due 
 caution, there would be no fear of disturbing the elephants 
 where we were, I decided to leave them till the next morning, 
 so as to have the whole day before me for the hunt. 
 
 The Ndorobo party had luckily camped farther back, at 
 a rock pool away from the river. In the afternoon I went 
 out into the open country towards the hills, and shot a Grant's 
 gazelle for meat. As I have said, outside the forest, dense 
 jungle, and rank swamp growth, which, in varying proportions, 
 clothed the flat alluvial floor of the valley immediately border- 
 ing the river, the country was perfectly open, and the tran- 
 sition from the one to the other was quite sudden. At this 
 part there were stony slopes and comparatively level ridges 
 between the flats and the steep hills enclosing the valley. 
 The ground being so open, and covered only with short dry 
 grass, it was not easy to get within shot of game ; so that it 
 was only by making a careful stalk after a long circuit — not 
 forgetting, of course, the direction of the wind — and creeping 
 down a narrow gully that I was able to bag my buck. But 
 that is just what gives interest to such shooting. Having 
 reached a point opposite where I had noticed the little herd
 
 202 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 of gazelles feeding, I crept out cautiously on to the stony 
 ridge, and was able to get my shot at easy range before they 
 took the alarm, and to knock over my victim successfully. I 
 returned to my tent very pleased, and hopeful for the morrow. 
 It was extremely lucky my happening upon signs of elephants 
 here ; and, as I was now enjoying the blessings of health again, 
 and feeling quite strong and up to my work, I was in the 
 best of spirits. 
 
 As soon as it was light next morning I started out to 
 hunt, attended, as usual v\'hen after elephant, by my three 
 faithfuls, Squareface, Juma, and Smiler. Skirting the edge of 
 the bush for a little way, before entering the wide part near where 
 I had found the tracks yesterday, we passed round the edge 
 of a slimy-looking, evil-smelling, salt lagoon, from which a slight 
 steamy-looking exhalation (strongly suggestive of malaria) was 
 rising in the still air of the early morning, and which had sent 
 us its contribution of mosquitoes during the night. Little 
 water-hens swam nodding about in it, and sacred ibises stood 
 solemnly on the mud. We then cut straight across the valley 
 bottom, passing through the dense cover with which the flats 
 bordering the stream were clad, to see if the elephants had 
 passed up during the night. Inside, the bush was tunnelled 
 with their paths, the soft ground being, in many places, worn 
 into deep grooves. Sometimes we came upon regular caverns 
 in the forest, the thicket being, as it were, hollowed out by 
 their trampling into shady cloisters, where they had evidently 
 been accustomed to rest and stand about, for the ground was 
 covered with their droppings. In other parts were grassy little 
 openings and passages — the soft, thick grass laid by their 
 sweeping tread. We found that they had passed during the 
 night ; but, before following the spoor, we went through to 
 the edge of the bush on the far side of the valley to make 
 sure that they had not returned. Having assured ourselves on 
 this point, we followed their tracks up stream. At one point, not 
 far from our camp, some of them had skirted the edge of the
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BO GO I 
 
 forest on our side, and it seemed there as if they had been in- 
 clined to turn down again ; but possibly they had got our wind, 
 for they entered the bush again and continued up the valley. 
 
 After a time we came to a place where the river spread 
 into a number of channels, meandering and interlacing in a 
 bewildering manner, and all between was a horrible quagmire, 
 full of half-dead, tangled jungle, battered and broken down, 
 while below was stagnant water and fetid, black mud — a 
 dismal, forbidding swamp. In some of the deep pools were 
 quantities of fish, showing that they never dry up. We soon 
 found it impossible to penetrate this fastness, and all we could 
 do was to skirt round it on the far side. I feared the elephants 
 might be in this impenetrable stronghold, and that we should 
 pass them ; but luckily we struck off the spoor again, higher 
 up, just outside. We followed it again, with sundry checks, a 
 long way ; and, when nearly opposite where we had first struck 
 the river when coming from El Bogoi, we found that we had 
 overrun the scent. Then, suddenly, we heard elephants 
 singing out quite close in our rear. It was fortunate that we 
 had thus got beyond them, for the wind was, as usual, blowing 
 up the valley, and consequently had been with us. It was 
 now about 3 P.M., for we had had many delays, and at one 
 time, believing the elephants to be near, had unluckily waited 
 for a spell, in hopes of hearing them, so as to avoid inadvert- 
 ently running into them ivitJi the wind, thus wasting much 
 valuable time. Going round a bit farther, in order to get well 
 to leeward of the herd, we then advanced cautiously, hearing 
 the elephants at intervals, but farther off, as they were moving 
 — but now in the opposite (down stream) direction. The 
 cover here was rather open forest, with an undergrowth of dense 
 jungle (but at this part not very high), so that, though it was 
 rather troublesome to get through, I could see over it. After 
 following slowly some little distance, and when beginning to 
 fear that they must have got our wind, while v/e were passing 
 up, and were now retreating, I suddenly saw ahead the tops of
 
 204 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the ears and heads of several, standing in a cluster under a 
 tree. Creeping on, big gun in hand, a few paces farther, I 
 was able to see them well, apparently all cows. One bulky 
 but short old cow stood nearest me, but I could not see her 
 tusks at first, and, as she was partly facing towards me, she did 
 not offer a very good shot. Still she seemed to be the biggest 
 and was also the one I could see best, the others being more 
 or less hidden behind each other. 
 
 I waited, deliberating whether to try a head shot, and with 
 this idea took the Lee-Metford from my gun-bearer, who stood 
 silently behind me. But she then gave her head a lift and 
 showed me a fine long pair of " kalashes," crossed at the tips. 
 This decided me not to risk the doubtful chance of reaching 
 her brain from that position, so, taking the lo-bore rifle again, 
 I waited till she let me see the spot just behind the shoulder, 
 and fired for it (though, considering the way she was standing, 
 I ought to have aimed at the shoulder itself). While the 
 others were turning rather slowly to retreat in the opposite 
 direction, I got in a good second barrel on the shoulder of one. 
 The first went on with the rest, but the other could not move 
 away, and in a minute was over and dying. Then Squareface 
 saw some run back away to our left. We rushed to try and 
 cut them off, but the jungle was too dense to let us get through 
 quickly enough, and they passed before we got near. Return- 
 ing, we followed the spoor, and found blood sprinkled over the 
 jungle, evidently blown either from the trunk or through the 
 wound. A little farther we got puzzled, the blood spoor seem- 
 ing to return on itself ; but while looking about to make out 
 which way it led, I heard, close ahead, the rumbling made by 
 a hard-hit elephant. These are the most intensely exciting 
 moments of the chase. The nerves are tightly strung, but 
 the tension is so great that, when it has been repeatedly 
 indulged in, one is rendered ever after incapable of excite- 
 ment : the capacity for it becomes exhausted. 
 
 Gliding cautiously nearer, with set teeth, I saw my big cow
 
 IX EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 205 
 
 standing, very sick, with another by her. I finished the former 
 off with a Lee-Metford bullet in the brain, dropping her dead, 
 and knocked over the other alongside of her in a similar way. 
 The latter, though, plunged about, rising partially and falling 
 again several times, while I fired two or three more shots into 
 her head as she swung it about. Then she kept down, but 
 still struggled. There were two half-grown ones, which I had 
 not noticed before, standing by their prostrate friends ; I could 
 not harm them, and, as I wanted to go up to finish securely 
 the second cow, I told Squareface to shout at them. This had 
 the desired effect of making them run away. 
 
 Perhaps I should have gone on in the hope of finding others 
 standing not far off, but it was getting near sundown, and I 
 was tired (my strength not being yet fully returned after my 
 recent spell of illness), and we had left Smiler at the first 
 elephant. So we went back to it, cut out the heart and fat, 
 taking also a piece of the trunk and a foot, and started to 
 make our way out of the bush. By the time we got out (on 
 our own side) it was sundown. We had gone but a few steps 
 along the open, skirting the edge of the forest, when we heard 
 an elephant scream close by, just inside a patch of some of the 
 densest kind of jungle I know of — namely, that matted green 
 growth, such as I have lately described, found in damp, sandy 
 situations where the soil is salt. I do not much like going 
 into these places under such circumstances, but the hopes of 
 another elephant overcame my hesitation, and I entered the 
 dark maze by a narrow path. Then, as I rounded a corner, 
 an elephant, which was just crossing ahead, halted for a 
 moment in the path, and gave me a peep at its shoulder. I 
 aimed quickly for just behind it and fired. It gave a loud 
 grunt as the shot struck it, and plunged into the cover. Then 
 the herd dashed across beyond, making an appalling crashing 
 and cracking as they tore a great road through in their first 
 rush of frenzy, but it was impossible to distinguish any mark 
 in the confused mass, crossing so narrow a gap. We followed
 
 2o6 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chai-. 
 
 a little way farther, but the path soon became almost im- 
 passable, and I decided it would be foolhardy to go on where 
 escape would be impossible and one might be trampled to 
 death without any malicious intention on the part of the 
 elephants. Besides, it was getting dusk ; so, as we could see 
 nothing of my wounded elephant, I made for camp. I had 
 an instinctive confidence that this elephant was mortall}- hit, 
 and felt no doubt but that I should secure his short thick tusks 
 {o{ which I had caught a clear enough vievv^ to show that they 
 were those of a young bull). It took us till quite eight o'clock 
 to reach camp, going hard through the open. After cleaning 
 my rifles and the usual bath I got some dinner about ten and 
 turned in by eleven, well pleased with this extra stroke of luck — 
 an unexpected one, as I had supposed all the elephants to have 
 already cleared out of the whole valley. We had no Ndorobo 
 natives with us, so had to rely entirely on our own spooring on 
 this hunt, nor did any turn up at all that day. 
 
 As we had been already loaded up to the last pound almost 
 we could possibly carry, with the additional ivory now obtained 
 it would be beyond the capacity of my little part)' to trans- 
 port all at once. So, first thing on the morning after the hunt 
 just described, I sent off four porters with loads of ivory for EI 
 Bogoi camp, in charge of Fundi, one of my responsible men. 
 The porters were to return at once, after depositing the ivory, 
 and should, I calculated, get back on the third day. The tusks 
 were, as usual, to be buried at once, for greater security, and 
 particularly as a precaution against fire ; for ivory is said to 
 burn like a candle, and the grass huts in which one stores one's 
 goods are particularly inflammable and liable to catch fire 
 through the carelessness of the men in charge. 
 
 Soon after despatching them, I started again, to see if any 
 elephants were still to be found in the neighbourhood. Cutting 
 across the valley again, to find out if the herd had come this 
 way in the night, we found spoor at once, close to camp. We 
 wasted a lot of time puzzling it out, before we could get fairly
 
 IX EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 207 
 
 away with it in the direction the elephants had finally taken. 
 After mancEuvring about they had gone down stream, in which 
 course they steadily kept on, and evidently meant trekking. 
 After patiently following the tracks all down the valley again, 
 we got at last into that awful jungle of giant swamp grass just 
 above our old camp. The spoor led through the most 
 impracticable part of this forbidding fastness. The grass was 
 high enough to hide the biggest elephant ; its stems were like 
 canes, and the paths inside were mere tunnels, often obstructed 
 by masses of the thick, heavy crop being laid across them. It 
 was with the greatest labour that we could make any progress 
 through the tangle, and in places it was well-nigh impenetrable, 
 while anywhere but in these tunnels it was as absolutely so as 
 a solid wall. Moreover, owing to the paths being covered with 
 dry litter, it was impossible to keep the spoor. Nor would it 
 have been possible to do anything with them if the elephants 
 had been inside (though my belief was that they had gone right 
 on) ; for one could hardly see a yard ahead, even in the path, 
 and, as they must have heard us coming and there would be 
 no possibility of escape if they charged, the danger was 
 excessive. So we wormed our way out, and I was not a 
 little relieved to emerge, about three in the afternoon, from 
 the stifling heat and stiff rasping stems of the brake into 
 the open air, where one could stand erect and walk with 
 comfort. 
 
 On the way back I got a chance to stalk some Grant's 
 gazelle, which had been feeding on some short green grass grow- 
 ing in a damp hollow near the edge of the lagoon but moved away 
 at our approach, and succeeded, by crawling up a stony ridge 
 under cover of the crest, in shooting a couple to keep up our 
 supply of fresh meat. One of these ran some distance ; but 
 feeling confident it v/as mortally wounded, I sent Juma after it, 
 and he retrieved it and met us farther on with it on his 
 shoulders, Smiler bringing on the other, while Squareface and] I 
 carried all the guns and other odds and ends. We reached
 
 2o8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 camp about sundown after another hard day. I found two of my 
 Ndorobo friends in camp. Doubtless they had heard the firing 
 yesterday and surmised that there would be more elephants to 
 feast on. I told them they deserved no more meat, because they 
 had brought me no honey. It was always the understanding 
 that when they were living on my elephants they should keep 
 me supplied with this wholesome luxury. But they protested 
 they could find none here, and I believe they spoke the truth, 
 for I always found them liberally inclined when they had any ; 
 so I said they were welcome to go the next day and cut up 
 the elephants I had killed, on condition that they would search 
 for the one I had shot in the evening, which I felt convinced 
 could not go far. They were not slow to accept my offer, and 
 turned up in force before it was properly light in the morning, 
 on the strength of another feast being on the board. They 
 brought me a little honey ; all they had, they said. It was 
 but a tiny portion, but an acceptable addition to my rather 
 monotonous fare. Feeling a bit tired myself, and as there did 
 not seem much chance of finding any more elephants about 
 now, I sent Squareface and Juma with them to try and find 
 my lost elephant of the last day's hunt ; but they returned in 
 the evening without having found it. 
 
 In consequence of Squareface having brought a report that 
 on his way back he had seen the fresh spoor of a herd going 
 down stream, I was off again as soon as light and tramped 
 straight down to our lower camp on the chance that it might 
 have stopped somewhere in that neighbourhood. However, I 
 could discover no fresh spoor at all, and though on the way 
 back we cut through the bush backwards and forwards at 
 intervals, crossing and recrossing the stream in all six times, 
 until we reached the locality of our camp again, we could find 
 no recent traces of elephants nor any spoor fresher than that 
 we had followed two days before. The same evening my men 
 returned from El Bogoi, but they brought no news of my 
 caravan, which I was now beginning to expect back from
 
 IX EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 209 
 
 Mthara with stores of food, nor any at all except that another 
 donkey was dead. 
 
 Being determined not to move away while there was the 
 least possibility of our leaving elephants behind us in this 
 neighbourhood, I started early again the next morning (17th 
 September) to work up stream in the same way as we had 
 done from below the day before ; sending two men meanwhile 
 to get out and bring back the tusks of the dead elephants, so 
 that we might be ready to trek the following day and have no 
 further delay on the way. But we found no fresh signs, and 
 it became clear that the yarn Squareface had brought me was 
 a " cock and bull " one, hatched more out of his head than 
 resulting from any careful investigation. I then went to the 
 dead elephants, and learned, to my great satisfaction, that my 
 Ndorobo friends had found the other quite near to where I 
 had fired at it. It was, as I had thought, a young bull ; and 
 I recognised its teeth (weighing 50 lbs. the pair) at once. 
 For I always remember the tusks of an elephant I have shot, 
 even though I only get a glance at them. The tusks of the 
 big cow looked splendid now they were out. I guessed them 
 to weigh about }^6 lbs. apiece, but they really scaled 38 lbs. 
 and 39 lbs., and still weigh, now they are thoroughly dry 
 (for I have kept this pair), about what I had estimated them 
 at. This is the heaviest pair of cow teeth I have ever shot, 
 by a great deal. The other two were also good cows, but 
 one had unfortunately broken her tusk in plunging about, 
 <iigging it into the ground when falling ; and, though we 
 picked up one piece, the tip could never be found, notwith- 
 standing that we dug up the ground all about in our search, 
 in which we were helped by the Ndorobos. These, with their 
 women and children, were enjoying themselves immensely, 
 notwithstanding that the game was, to say the least, a shade 
 high, to our ideas. They were in great glee over the old 
 cow with the heavy teeth, as she was excessively fat, which 
 made them grin with delight as they described their satis- 
 
 P
 
 2IO ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap, ix 
 
 faction at such a windfall. I, too, was well pleased as I 
 returned to camp with the ivory. I then set to work, after 
 weighing it, to make it up into loads. We had now again, 
 besides the four loads carried by the donkeys, four loads for 
 porters ; making, with the four already sent to El Bogoi, twelve 
 loads as the result of the present little excursion. 
 
 The next day we marched to the top camp on the river, 
 I again driving two donkeys and carrying two rifles, and the 
 morning following, while yet cool, we climbed the long steep 
 stony ascent out of the valley, and halted during the heat of 
 the day at the rock pool on the heights. It was a relief to 
 get out of the hot valley and beyond the reach of the fetid 
 odours exhaled by its pestiferous swamps, with their salt 
 lagoons and reeking black slime, breeding fevers and swarms 
 of mosquitoes — though even these unwholesome pools are not 
 without their redeeming features, to wit, interesting birds 
 (Egyptian geese, ibises, cranes, etc.). There was plenty of 
 edible green stuff, too, to be had along the river, which Feruzi 
 (my cook) always looked out for, and boiled as a vegetable 
 for me ; while my donkeys did themselves well, there. On 
 the tops — probably at least 1500 feet above the river — the 
 air was cooler and fresher and there had been a good shower, 
 reviving the grass and filling the pool with sweet water. 
 While I rested under my " fly " — which had been pitched, 
 without the tent, to give me shade, as there were no trees 
 beyond a scraggy thorn or two, — I could see several elands, 
 a pair of rhinos, and a herd of zebras ^ (Burchell's with a 
 few of Grevy's), forming a picturesque group in a valley not 
 more than half a mile away. One bull eland stood under 
 a tree, apparently within shot of a gully ; and, by going a 
 long way round and getting into the gully higher up and 
 then following it down, I could probably have stalked it. 
 Baithai, a pleasant Ndorobo and a great chum of mine, who 
 
 1 I call them Burchell's, but they are really one of the allied varieties of the smaller 
 zebras — all closely related — (possibly Grant's).
 
 212 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap, ix 
 
 had met me here with a skin bag of exquisitely fragrant honey 
 (a great blessing, as I was almost out of that necessary of the 
 "bara"), wanted me to go and shoot it or a rhino. But, 
 though the meat would have been useful to me, as I had none 
 to take to El Bogoi (where game had to be sought far), I 
 was disinclined to incur the delay, being anxious to continue 
 my journey. After all the elephants they had had (more than 
 even they could cope with), too, I felt under no obligation 
 to hunt for them just then ; so reserved my strength for the 
 rather hard work this style of travelling entailed. I accord- 
 ingly made another move about 4 P.M., bivouacked at dusk 
 for the night, and arrived at my El Bogoi camp before noon 
 next day, not sorry to be relieved of my donkey-driving duty 
 and load of rifles when the men in charge there, hearing our 
 shouts of encouragement to the pack-animals, came running, 
 with pleasant smiles of welcome, to meet us.
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI {contmuccl) 
 
 A native duel — An offended guide — Camp by Mreya spring — Signs of elephants — A 
 wrong action — Dearth of water — Deemed a benefactor — Lions disturbed— A 
 chance lost — Spot for a mission station — Replenishing the larder — Back to El 
 Bogoi — A faithful headman — A remorse of conscience — A great disappointment 
 — An Ndorobo camp — News of an elephant preserve — Starvation times — Man- 
 eating lions. 
 
 It was agreeable to get back to my comfortable homelike camp 
 here, with its pleasant shade and little cool stream ; especially 
 as I had run out of salt while away, and did not find the saline 
 deposit I got off the dried-up mud about the salt marshes a 
 satisfactory substitute — it tasted more like Epsom salts ! There 
 was no news of Abdulla and the caravan yet. They had been 
 gone now about forty days ; and, though I did not exactly feel 
 anxious, I wished I could know they were safe. Baithai had 
 accompanied me back and had brought a young fellow with 
 him who had received some nasty spear -wounds in a fight 
 with a friend. I doctored his gashes, and he told me, in the 
 cheeriest way, that he had killed his antagonist. They did not 
 seem to think this a matter of any moment. Another Ndorobo 
 was sent to take word to Lesiat of my return. 
 
 I was pretty well occupied, the day after my return, weigh- 
 ing and entering in my note-book all the ivory, and burying 
 it in a big hole close to the door of the hut in which the goods 
 were stored, and with other matters that had to be attended to. 
 A day in camp was not unwelcome ; for I was suffering from
 
 214 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 nasty wounds on my fingers, made by the lo-bore rifle, which, 
 with its ten drams of powder, kicked like a mule ; and, from 
 constant exposure to a scorching sun, the sores had festered 
 badly. As no one had come from Lesiat's, I sent Squareface, 
 on the 2 2nd, to look him up, while I went out to the open 
 country to try for meat. I saw some oryx, but they were wild ; 
 and I did not particularly care for zebra, so left them alone. 
 Then, after managing to miss some Grant's gazelle, I was on my 
 way back, having given up hopes of getting anything, when I 
 came upon some more and killed two with the next two shots, 
 for which success I was very thankful as I was quite out of 
 meat, and it was a long way to where game is to be found from 
 El Bogoi. 
 
 Lesiat had not been found, and I now learned that he had 
 gone with his clan to camp in the " subugo " forest on the top 
 of the Lorogi Mountains. This seemed strange, and I came to 
 the conclusion that he was piqued at my going away to hunt 
 at El Gereh. But Baithai had now, with my permission, 
 pitched his camp not far from mine, and he was really about 
 the most sensible Ndorobo I had come across ; so I availed 
 myself of his services. One of his men, who came with him the 
 next morning, brought word that there were elephants in the 
 vicinity of a spring at the foot of the range towards the north ; 
 so we packed up at once and moved again to a small rock 
 pool, from whence I could hunt that district. This informant 
 described the length of a bull's spoor he had seen by laying 
 one arm on the ground and grasping it with the other hand a 
 third of the way up from the elbow to the shoulder, thus 
 indicating the measurement of the diameter of the footprint. 
 We had some trouble in getting through the old game-track 
 that led towards the water, for it was very much overgrown 
 with thorns ; and when we got there we found the hollow in 
 the rock almost dry, so that I had to send to another some 
 distance off for more. 
 
 I was off, as usual, betimes on the 24th September, and
 
 X EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 215 
 
 made straight for the neighbourhood of a spring called Mreya. 
 Our route led us along the foot of the range, still going north, 
 and in and out of amphitheatres formed by the mouths of 
 valleys running down from the mountains. All the country 
 at their base and for some distance back from them was covered 
 with dense scrub. We found spoor in the vicinity of the spring, 
 but wasted a good deal of time in trying to puzzle out its 
 ultimate direction, as the elephants had been strolling about 
 backwards and forwards. Then I decided to do what we ought 
 to have done at first ; namely, go to the water. There we found 
 the spoor of two small lots, but, as far as I could make out, all 
 cows ; and I could not discover the phenomenal footprint that 
 had been described to me. One of the lots seemed to have 
 gone back in the direction of El Bogoi, the other ahead. 
 We followed the latter. It was slow work, for there were quite 
 a few elephants and the tracks were often difficult to follow. 
 They had been sauntering along, feeding here and there, as the 
 chewed rolls of fibre of the mkongi plant (which they spit out) 
 testified. Occasionally fresh droppings were on the spoor, 
 but we had not found any warm yet ; and though, as is 
 customary when elephants are known to be not far off, we 
 stopped now and then to listen, no sound indicating their close 
 proximity had reached our ears. 
 
 We were thus moving along on the spoor without any 
 immediate expectation of coming up with our game, though as 
 a matter of course we were proceeding in the cautious and 
 careful manner which becomes instinctive habit, threading our 
 way silently through the narrow and more or less obstructed 
 winding alleys which permeate these dense and thorny jungles 
 and testing the wind now and again, when we came suddenly 
 close upon them. I could see several at once, for, just where 
 they were standing, the bush was not quite so thick. I stole up 
 yet nearer, and stood surveying the position. Luckily the breeze 
 was favourable and held steady. Two cows were close on my 
 right, heads towards me, and prevented my getting into a better
 
 2i6 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 position for a shot at another a Httle farther off, which appeared 
 the biggest, standing diagonally, head away, rather more than 
 three-parts turned from me. She was standing under a kind of 
 euphorbia or cactus tree and had a piece of a branch she had 
 broken from it in her mouth, off which she was chewing the 
 bark, the bare white end protruding on one side. The thick 
 milky juice of this tree is excessively pungent, the least spurt 
 of it in the eyes causing intense irritation. I should imagine 
 the effect of swallowing any on the human stomach would be 
 very serious ; but an elephant's mucous membrane must be less 
 sensitive. 
 
 I waited a little ; but as they did not seem inclined to 
 move at all, and fearing the two cows next me (which were 
 very close) might get my wind if I delayed longer, I took a 
 steady shot at the ribs of the big cow, calculating my aim so 
 that the bullet, driving forward, would get her heart, and fired. 
 She gave a tremendous grunting cry as she received the ball. 
 As they began to stampede I got a snap at one of the others 
 with the second barrel. Immediately after, the first appeared 
 again for a second standing close by, after the rest had passed, 
 and, with a scream, fell over. Looking round in hopes of 
 discovering the second, I saw a rhinoceros standing close by, 
 which, as it afterwards appeared, some of my men, who had 
 been just behind and now came up, thought was a fallen 
 elephant. 
 
 Not wishing to waste more time, I followed up the spoor 
 of the rest, and very soon came to where they had stood again. 
 Possibly, if I had come on immediately after the collapse of 
 the first, I might have got another chance here. Going on, we 
 heard them rumbling, and soon sighted two, standing in a 
 comparatively open space (as bush goes here). To be able to 
 see elephants at all means that you are already pretty near, 
 and a few quick, but stealthy, steps brought me quite close up 
 to these. But, before I could get a chance to shoot, one came 
 walking straight for me ; and as I could not well get out of
 
 X EXCURSIONS FROM EL BO GO I 217 
 
 the way, owing to the thick and thorny scrub, I fired in her 
 face when only a few paces off, not knowing what else to do 
 and not caring to wait to test her intentions by allowing her 
 to reach me — though I do not believe they were evil, but 
 rather suppose she did not know I was there at all. I 
 afterwards, in thinking over the situation (one which has 
 occurred to me more than once before j, came to the conclusion 
 that I ought to have shouted at her, to make her halt or turn 
 her broadside. I did not want to shoot at her as she came 
 on ; for not only was it well-nigh impossible to give her a 
 fatal shot in that position, but behind her was one with larger 
 tusks. Her chest was covered by the undergrowth as well as 
 by her trunk, which was down, and to reach her brain through 
 the thick part of the latter and the whole length of her head, 
 as I looked up at her, was barely possible even if the aim 
 happened to be right — at all events with the lO-bore I had in 
 my hands, though no doubt a .303 has sufficient penetration. 
 Jumping aside into the thorns the instant I had pulled the 
 trigger, and before the voluminous smoke from the big charge 
 of black powder allowed me to see what she was doing, I was 
 too late to give her a second shot as she turned off, as I might 
 have been able to do had I stood firm. But, in the momentar\' 
 glance I got at her the second after I fired, I distinctly saw 
 the bullet-wound in the centre of the thick part of her trunk 
 and the blood coming from it. 
 
 Following again, we soon came upon the two once more, 
 but this time in a very thick place. I could only see one ; she 
 was standing awkwardly, nearly facing me, and in the shadow 
 of the bush, and before I could get a better view they moved 
 on. Probably the old cow which I had killed had been their 
 leader, and her loss was the cause of their delaying so much ; 
 for the wounded one was not badly enough hurt to prevent 
 their going right away, and they were of course thoroughly 
 alarmed. We found blood, though only a little, on the spoor ; 
 but we never sighted them again, though we persevered and
 
 2i8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 heard them close to us several times, for the bush was dense 
 and the wind shifty and they kept on the move. 
 
 At length, well on in the afternoon, I gave up and retraced 
 our steps towards where I had first encountered the elephants. 
 Squareface and Juma maintained that there were two elephants 
 down there, but I felt convinced that what they had taken for 
 a second was a rhino ; for I could not believe I was mistaken 
 about it, having distinctly seen its horn. Nevertheless, I could 
 not help entertaining a lingering hope that they might be right. 
 On reaching the spot, however, there was neither elephant nor 
 rhino to be seen, so that there could no longer be the least 
 doubt that I had been correct ; for, though we searched well 
 all about, the only elephant we could find was the old cow I 
 had first shot at and which we had seen fall. It was curious 
 that the rhino should have stood close by while I shot and the 
 elephants shouted and stampeded. This instance proves, too, 
 that there is not necessarily any antagonism between these 
 animals. The dead elephant was a very old cow, with a 
 wizened face and unusually skinny throat, and both her tusks 
 were very much worn down, though ' of fair thickness for 
 " kalasha " ivory. We took out her heart, and found that my 
 bullet had gone through the very centre of it. I returned to 
 my camp at the rock hole, rather disappointed with the day's 
 hunt ; but I entertained a hope that possibly the other wounded 
 elephant (both shots were at the same) might yet be found. 
 
 I got back after dark a good deal torn and scratched by 
 thorns, and my finger, which had been sore so long from 
 repeated wounds inflicted by the trigger-guard of the heavy 
 rifle, very painful. On getting to camp I was not a little 
 annoyed to find there was no water for my gun-bearers ; as it 
 appeared even the second pit had run dry, some of the Ndorobo 
 women belonging to Baithai's party, who had followed me and 
 camped close by, having emptied it. Under these circumstances 
 I told the Ndorobo who had been with me that day to summon 
 Baithai himself to a consultation the first thing in the morning.
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 
 
 219 
 
 He, however, hearing that I was annoyed, sensibly came at 
 once ; so we had our council of war by the fire and I was 
 mollified. 
 
 It was decided that we should move camp in the morning 
 to a larger rock pool, which I was assured was full of water, 
 beyond where we had just been hunting ; the little Ndorobo 
 community, consisting of two or three women and a few 
 
 Author's Chef exercising his Art. 
 
 (From a Photograph.) 
 
 children belonging to Baithai and one or two of his mates, 
 following. Baithai assured me there was a very favourite 
 haunt of elephants farther on (still along the foot of the Lorogi), 
 where a stream ran out of a gorge in the mountains, and said 
 he thought we were almost sure to find some about there. 
 Failing that, we were to climb the range and hunt in the 
 " subugo " forest on the top. He told me he had sent all 
 through the El Boffoi bush and southward alone: the foot of
 
 220 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chai'. 
 
 the mountains as far as another spring where I had shot some 
 elephants the prev^ious trip, and that there was not a spoor to 
 be seen anywhere in that direction. It was pretty late before 
 I had done my gun-cleaning, bathed, and dined. My dinner 
 consisted of broiled kabobs of fat elephant heart and Grant's 
 gazelle fillet spitted alternately on a stick — a really delicious 
 dish. 
 
 I did not intend to do anything but move camp on the 
 following day and we had not far to go, so for once in a way 
 I slept till broad daylight and then had breakfast quietly and 
 comfortably before starting. Baithai accompanied me and we 
 were followed by his belongings — women, children and all, their 
 household gods (not very extensive) on the women's backs. 
 These Xdorobos are pleasant people when you have won their 
 confidence. They looked on me as a benefactor, and always 
 greeted me with friendly smiles. Shaking hands with them 
 (a custom of their own) is rather a trial sometimes, when they 
 have been busy about the carcase of an elephant that has been 
 dead several days (elephant meat does not keep well), or 
 handling some hoarded bones with a powerful aroma, it is 
 true ; but I like such cordial manifestations of confidence in 
 one. 
 
 I found the rock pit a good-sized one and full of curious- 
 looking water, very green and opaque, but not bad tasted. No 
 doubt its colour was caused by some kind of minute growth in 
 it ; though why this particular pool should differ in this way 
 from other similar ones puzzled me. It was on a rocky little 
 spur of an outlying hill near the foot of the main range, and I 
 found a picturesque spot to camp in, half-way up the side, 
 where there was just enough fairly level ground to pitch my 
 tent under a convenient tree. Being pretty high here, my 
 camp commanded a magnificent view over the country north- 
 ward's right up to Alount Nyiro (near the south end of Lake 
 Rudolph), which loomed up big and dark in the distance. I 
 spent a rather pleasant, lazy day after the short march, making
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 
 
 things snug, writing up my diary and pottering about. Baithai 
 and Co. had made their camp near by, but most of them were 
 away all day cutting up yesterday's elephant, which was not 
 far from here, and some slept by the carcase. 
 
 The next morning, feeling thoroughly refreshed and fit 
 after my easy day, I was off before sunrise with Baithai and 
 my usual gun-bearers. We went along the very edge of the 
 valleys lying under the mountains, keeping close under the 
 latter, where there were, at this part, frequent little open glades 
 which enabled us to get along more freely and comfortably 
 than when threading the thorny mazes of the jungle which 
 stretched away on our right. While it was still early we passed 
 over a rather steep and stony shoulder (the foot, in fact, of a 
 buttress of the mountain) and into the valley which contained 
 the stream, issuing from a kloof or gorge in the mountains, for 
 which we were making, and where Baithai hoped to find signs 
 of elephants. 
 
 While descending by a very rough game-track overlooking 
 this valley, which the rising sun was just lighting up, I noticed 
 that a large white thorn-tree, growing near the edge of some 
 thick bush, beside a grassy glade which it overlooked, was laden 
 with vultures. Going, as is my invariable custom under such 
 circumstances, to see what might be the cause of this gathering, 
 with thoughts of my wounded elephant of two da}-s before in 
 my mind, we disturbed about half-a-dozen maneless lions or 
 lionesses from the carcase of a large bull giraffe they had 
 apparently killed the day before but were still eating. When 
 after elephants I do not carry a rifle myself except when 
 getting close to them ; and to-day I had, with unpardonable 
 carelessness, not yet loaded any, as we had not seen any fresh 
 spoor and I had no idea of going after any other game. The 
 consequence was that I lost this chance, or I might anyway 
 have got one of the lions, which stood before clearing out. I 
 did not care particularly though, as I hoped to find elephants, 
 and should not have liked to spend the time needed to skin a
 
 222 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 lion. However, as it turned out, we might just as well have 
 spent the day in skinning lions, for we could find no traces of 
 elephants. 
 
 There was here a beautiful stream of clear, cold water, 
 running strongly for some little distance after issuing from the 
 ravine before it disappeared in a little swamp in the flat, and 
 some pleasant grassy meadows bordered it. It struck me as 
 a pity such a suitable spot could not be utilised — say, for a 
 mission station, — with its adaptability for irrigation. Baithai 
 said that if elephants were anywhere in the neighbourhood they 
 would certainly resort to this stream to drink ; so, having 
 searched its banks in vain for any indication of their recent 
 visits, there was nothing for it but to turn back. I returned 
 then to the carcase of the giraffe, in hopes of finding the lions 
 there again, but they had not gone back to it nor could we find 
 them anywhere about. I then took a round through the more 
 open country to the eastward, in hopes of getting some fresh 
 meat, but missed a chance at zebra through the sight of my 
 Lee-Metford (which required careful adjustment, as it was 
 incorrectly regulated; having got wrong, and got back to 
 camp empty-handed and rather disgusted with this unlucky 
 day. 
 
 I had a talk with Baithai about further plans, and it was 
 agreed that he was to send off two lads on the morrow to 
 prospect for elephants still farther on than we had yet been. 
 They were to return at once if they found spoor, but otherwise 
 would not be back till the day but one after. I sent Juma to- 
 El Bogoi, the morning after, to fetch some more supplies ready 
 for an expedition on to the mountains which I had in view, and 
 instructed him, should he find the caravan there (as I thought 
 very probable), to tell Abdulla (my headman; to come back 
 with him. I went out to try for meat, making for some open 
 country which could be seen out on the flats. But, while 
 passing through the broad belt of thick bush which separated 
 us from it, we cut the fresh spoor of two or three cow elephants,.
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOG 01 
 
 and I thought it my duty to follow it. However, it proved 
 labour in vain. They were travellers making straight, evidently, 
 for the Barasaloi, where that stream comes out of the mountains, 
 which was a very long way off, and not feeding nor delaying, 
 so we had to give it up and come back. 
 
 A shower we had had in the afternoon made it delightfully 
 fresh the next morning as I turned my steps early once more 
 towards the " Ongata," or open country, with a view to replen- 
 ishing the larder, though the glistening drops studding each 
 spray made it rather damp work getting through the intervening 
 jungle. No sooner had we reached the grass land, which here 
 had been recently burned and was springing green, than I saw 
 some Grant's gazelle. At first they saw me and ran ; but, as I 
 sat down and kept still and they did not get my wind (the breeze 
 being in my face), curiosity made them come back to see 
 what I was (I had left my attendants behind), and I shot two, 
 buck and doe. Perhaps the glint of the rifle-barrel in the early 
 morning sun fascinated them, as a revolving mirror attracts 
 larks. The Grant's gazelle seemed to be mostly thin here at 
 this time (September). I think most of the does must have 
 had young fawns, though none were to be seen ; for, when 
 quite young, they are left lying alone, while the mothers graze, 
 and it is only when accidentally come upon that one is noticed. 
 Having accomplished my object, I went back early to camp, 
 my men carrying the two gazelles. 
 
 Soon after my return, Abdulla and several of his men 
 arrived, along with Juma. I was indeed pleased and thankful 
 to see them seemingly in first-rate form and spirits, and to 
 hear that the whole caravan was safe and well. They had got 
 to El Bogoi camp yesterday, Abdulla told me, and all his news 
 was satisfactory, and he had had no mishaps. He had stayed 
 so long (this was 28 th September and they had left me on 13 th 
 August) in order to buy donkeys, having had my permission to 
 do so, and had got five. He had brought twenty-four loads of 
 beans, which he had been able to buy quickly without any
 
 224 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 difficulty. He had done one thing, though, I did not approve 
 of, as it was risky; he had been to Laiju, attended by only 
 two men, passing over the Jambeni range, which is inhabited by 
 the Embe tribe, the same treacherous people who had murdered 
 four of my men on my former expedition, and whom I had 
 been obliged to punish for that crime. He had a spear thrown 
 at him, which he brought along ; but he made light of this, 
 which he said was the act of some turbulent young fellow, and 
 declared that it was quite safe now for one man to pass through 
 alone, as there was no hostility shown by the people generally. 
 
 After discussion and consideration I decided it would be 
 best to send once more to Mthara, so that we might accumu- 
 late ample supplies of food for our long journey through the 
 wilderness, with margin for possible hunting by the way. This 
 would give me a little more time in this region, so that I 
 might carry out my plan for hunting in the " subugo " before 
 trekking on. Abdulla also reported that Ndaminuki, my 
 " blood brother," to whom he had been the bearer of presents 
 from me, had behaved in the most friendly and obliging way 
 and done all he could to help him. 
 
 Late in the evening Baithai brought word that his mes- 
 sengers had returned from the Barasaloi " subugo " and reported 
 that they had found no fresh spoor anywhere, nor could they 
 hear any news of elephants being in that neighbourhood now 
 from Ndorobos belonging to that part whom they had met 
 there. In consequence of this I decided to return to El Bogoi 
 the next day with Abdulla, so as to arrange everything there 
 with regard to their second trip to Mthara, and then make a 
 fresh start from there myself for the mountains. In the 
 evening some guinea-fowl perched in a tree close to camp and 
 I took toll of one with my rook rifle. The tusks of the old 
 cow had been brought in to-day. I guessed the pair to weigh 
 about 30 lbs., and this subsequently proved correct to a fraction. 
 
 In the morning we trekked back to El Bogoi by a different 
 and more open route than we had come by. On the way I
 
 X EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 225 
 
 shot another gazelle. Had I known, I might have got an 
 oryx, as there were two close by, but I did not see them till I 
 had shot the other buck, and they had got well away. I found 
 my men all as cheerful as possible and looking very fit. They 
 were quite contented to go again to Mthara, as they got good 
 living there, but seemed to be looking forward eagerly to the 
 onward move towards the lake, which they were as keen as I 
 was to visit. Abdulla's new donkeys were fine strong ones, in 
 good condition, and would be a great help on our journey to 
 the north. My other donkeys had also improved with their 
 rest here. 
 
 I was altogether very pleased with the way Abdulla had 
 done his duty on this trip, and told him so ; for he had carried 
 out my wishes most zealously and faithfully. He was a head- 
 man after my own heart. I arranged everything for him to 
 start again the following day, and told him to be back, if 
 possible, in twenty days, by which time I meant to be quite 
 ready to make a final start for Reshiat. Though anxious to 
 go on, I was glad to get a little more time here first, as I 
 particularly wanted to go over the Lorogi Mountains, under 
 which I had done so much hunting ; it was as well, too, to 
 secure an abundant supply of food before plunging into the 
 desert ahead, for there is nothing like having an ample provision 
 for the future. In the meantime, I hoped to get a little more 
 ivory. 
 
 The porters had come to me in the afternoon and asked 
 me to give them another day to rest here, to which I willingly 
 assented ; so I went out the next morning to try and get some 
 meat, but saw not a living thing. Baithai, who had made his 
 camp not far from mine again, came and said he had sent men 
 to prospect the " subugo " (that is, the forest on the mountains) 
 far and wide for elephants ; he also told me that Lesiat had 
 come back with his clan, and was encamped under the range 
 near one of my old hunting-camps, whence I had shot several 
 elephants last year. But what sounded less hopeful was the 
 
 Q
 
 226 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 news he brought that Lesiat's party had killed one or two 
 elephants in the mountain forest ; however, he seemed confident 
 there would still be some about. The weather was much drier 
 and consequently more favourable for visiting the high 
 " subugo " than when I had been here the year before, for now 
 it seldom rained even on the range. Another Ndorobo friend 
 of mine, the head of the community who had been to El Gereh 
 with me and feasted on my elephants there, also came to see 
 me, and said he had a small tusk he wished to give me. Of 
 course such gifts entail return presents, and are really often 
 more costly in this way than if bought ; so that my general 
 motto with most natives is " timeo Danaos et dona ferentes " ; 
 but these people are not nearly so grasping and insatiable as 
 the average African, and I do not grudge treating them 
 liberally. 
 
 On 1st October Abdulla left for Mthara once more. I was 
 still waiting for news about elephants, and thought it best not to 
 go to the " subugo " till I had got some. My old friend 
 Lesiat came to see me. He tried to conceal his success at the 
 elephants this time, and declared that he, at all events, had only 
 killed a very little one himself. He had brought me some most 
 beautiful honeycomb, as white as snow almost, and the honey 
 as clear as crystal. As usual he stayed all night in my camp, 
 where he knew he always got a hearty welcome and a hearty 
 feed. But when in the evening, after I had done my dinner, 
 he came to sit by the log fire in front of my tent to have our 
 customary chat, with Squareface as interpreter, I noticed that 
 there was a certain unwonted constraint in his manner. He 
 seemed to think he had not treated me quite well in scaring 
 the elephants while I was away, for he knew I had taken 
 particular pains to let him know when I killed mine : and I, 
 on my part, pretended to be angry with him. But the fact 
 was, he had been too lazy to go as far as El Gereh, which was 
 beyond his beat, and yet he did not like my going without 
 him. He declared he had no news of elephants anywhere
 
 X EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 227 
 
 now. Juma, whom I had sent off the day before in the opposite 
 direction to that in which I had been lately hunting — that is, to 
 the southward in the district of the upper Seya — returned, 
 bringing with him two Ndorobo youths from that part. They 
 had nothing to impart, though, as they said there had been no 
 elephants in their neighbourhood since Lesiat drove out the 
 big herd just after my arrival. Juma, however, declared that he 
 had seen fresh spoor on his way back, in a part where I had 
 hunted formerly. Taking all things into consideration, I 
 decided to go that way first, leaving the mountains till I had 
 definite news as to what part of the range I should be likely 
 to find in. 
 
 But before starting next morning I gave Lesiat as much 
 beans as his wife could carry, the greater part of a big loaf 
 of tobacco (which Abdulla had brought me for the purpose of 
 giving my Ndorobo friends, who prize it more than anything), 
 and six Grant's gazelle skins. This made him smile again. 
 The skins (which they are very fond of to sew into cloaks) he 
 would not take then, as he did not want his friends to see 
 them lest they should beg some from him, so he told me to 
 put them away till he had an opportunity of smuggling them 
 home on the quiet. 
 
 We then packed up as quickly as we could, and went south 
 to a place about the same distance from the range, where there 
 was a pool of very hard and rather nasty water impregnated 
 with some kind of salt mineral, and I sent for Lorgete (the 
 Ndorobo who had behaved rather badly on my first arrival this 
 trip). When he came he had a great many words to say, 
 first, about our quarrel, trying to make out that he was the 
 aggrieved party. I listened patiently and answered him 
 quietly, pointing out how he had deceived me in order to 
 prevent Lesiat hearing of my arrival, in consequence of which 
 the latter had disturbed the elephants, while he could show me 
 none, so that my chance of getting any was spoilt — through 
 his selfish jealousy. At last he consented to come back to
 
 228 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 elephant news. He told me then that there was a small troop 
 of bulls about, and that they had been seen yesterday not far 
 from here. He slept at my camp, so as to be ready to go out 
 early with me on the morrow. By sunrise we were well on the 
 way towards the part where he thought the herd might probably 
 be, as he was familiar, from life -long experience, with their 
 favourite haunts when in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Before long fresh spoor showed that he was right in his 
 calculations. We did not, however, follow it, but made for a 
 high rocky koppie not far off, which we proceeded to climb. 
 As I reached the summit, Lorgete, who had preceded me, 
 beckoned me to follow him on to a rock free from bushes. I 
 could see by his smile of satisfaction and the excited look in 
 his eyes that he had already made out elephants, and on 
 reaching his side I too saw at once — without the help of his 
 eager clutch of my arm and demonstrative pointing- — the tops 
 of the heads and backs, and the upper parts of the slowly 
 flapping ears, of several elephants, visible, from our point of 
 vantage, among the bush a little beyond. Our perch on the 
 top of this abrupt, conical hill completely overlooked the 
 dense jungle, which lay spread below us in all directions, 
 for some distance. The greater part of it was thorny scrub, 
 some ten or twelve feet in height, but in some places were 
 clumps of bushy thorn -trees through which we could not 
 see. 
 
 As I carefully scanned the bush all about and beyond the 
 elephants I had first caught sight of, gradually another and 
 another became defined as it waved its huge ears or moved out 
 of the shadow of a tree with which its dusky form had been 
 blended. I thus made out eight, all big bulls as their broad 
 foreheads and massive outlines made at once apparent. 
 "YJxtok^^ (big), whispered Lorgete, with tremendous emphasis on 
 the last syllable, — holding out his spear to indicate exaggerated 
 length, and then putting his hands, spread, in the position of 
 grasping, wide apart on each side of his thigh, by way of
 
 X EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 229 
 
 suggesting- fabulous bulk, the while grimacing notes of admira- 
 tion to further accentuate his pantomimic description of the 
 enormous size of their tusks according to his opinion. I 
 watched for some time. They seemed to have ceased feeding. 
 Five moved on ahead ; another was some way off apart, the 
 other two remained standing quite near our koppie. 
 
 While we sat on the top, the wind, though light, kept 
 steadily in our faces ; but on descending, for the purpose of 
 approaching these last two elephants, it became puffy and 
 shifty, and, as I advanced through the dense cover, I felt 
 almost certain it would betray me. Oh for a good stiff 
 breeze ! However, I decided to go on and chance it, and 
 picking my way with every caution, I got near enough to see 
 them through the narrow opening in the bush left by the path 
 which I was following. One mighty fellow stood among thick 
 scrub, head on to me, the other was behind him. I approached 
 close, but could not possibly get a shot. I wanted to go back 
 and try from another direction, but he seemed to see me and I 
 feared if I moved he would go — or come. In this suspense I 
 stood for a considerable time, face to face with the great beast. 
 He was a huge brute, with magnificent long and thick tusks, 
 which I guessed to weigh not less than 90 lbs. apiece. My 
 heart sank as I felt the wind lull and veer, and then a gentle 
 breath on my back. I knew it was all up, as I could not 
 possibly shoot him in his present position, but trusted to a 
 possible chance as he turned. Up went his trunk and round 
 he swung and was off at a run in a moment. I fired a snap- 
 shot, but could not sec to aim for the thick cover. Nor were 
 there any traces of blood on the spoor. We followed their 
 windings for hours in this vast stronghold, but at last had to 
 give it up, as they had turned down wind in the afternoon. I 
 returned to camp heavy at heart. It was a truly heart-break- 
 ing disappointment that, of the first big bulls I had seen this 
 trip, I had failed to get even one. One must bear .such, though, 
 in a hunter's life ; and the only thing I could hope, as I had
 
 230 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 not killed my elephant, was that I had missed it altogether. 
 But oh, those heavy tusks ! 
 
 Though I had but slight hopes of finding again so soon 
 after scaring our game, I was out again the next morning and 
 met Lorgete at a spot in the bush by arrangement. As I had 
 feared, the elephants had cleared out, and there was no fresh 
 spoor to be found. Lorgete was an unsatisfactory man to 
 hunt with, and always annoyed me a good deal. He was too 
 excitable, and had far too much to say, and a habit of halting 
 every now and then to unburden himself of many irrelevant 
 words, which is particularly vexing when one is intent upon 
 the search for game. To-day he disgusted me with his 
 constant humbug, so much so that I thought he must have 
 been drinking mead. He showed plainly, too, that he was 
 eaten up with jealousy of my much stauncher and more reliable 
 friend Lesiat ; so I was rather glad to get rid of him and 
 return early to camp, especially as Squareface was lame and 
 had foolishly followed me without telling me about it. Later 
 in the day his son, who had just returned from Lesiat's, told 
 me that he had seen the spoor of our yesterday's herd going 
 towards El Bogoi. Under these circumstances I decided to 
 move back in that direction. 
 
 We accordingly shifted our quarters again, but, instead of 
 returning to the main camp, struck across to a point higher up 
 the stream, near to which I knew Baithai's family was now 
 encamped. A newly used path from the water showed us the 
 way to the den — stinking like a hyena's lair — quite near. It 
 is extraordinary what miserable places these Ndorobo camps 
 are ; huts hardly deserving the name — put to shame by many 
 birds' nests — just stuck down in the uncleared scrub without 
 even a shady tree or open space. Baithai and his companions 
 and their women came in just after we got there, the women 
 laden with rotting elephant bones and putrid meat. It seemed 
 he had found a small elephant dead, undoubtedly the one I 
 had shot with my second barrel (and afterwards hit again) the
 
 X EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 231 
 
 day I killed the old cow at Mreya. The tusks, which he 
 loyally gave up to me quite cheerfully, were small. I would 
 not have shot it if I had known ; but it was a snap-shot in the 
 bush, and the only one I got a chance at. This one made up 
 my total so far for this trip to twenty-five. He said his 
 messengers had found lots of spoor in the "subugo," but he 
 thought there were also some elephants in the gorge of the 
 El Bogoi, just under the mountains, and promised to come in 
 the morning to hunt with me. Our search there was fruitless. 
 We followed up the El Bogoi, carefully examining its banks 
 all the way, to the head of the ravine, but not a spoor could 
 we see. This proved there could be no elephants in the 
 neighbourhood of the stream. We accordingly came back to 
 camp early. 
 
 In the afternoon I was visited by quite a crowd of Ndorobos, 
 composed of Lesiat's people and some of a clan living farther 
 along the mountains at their highest part (which is that properly 
 called Lorogi, though the name is often used to denote the 
 whole range). These latter were, with their headman — a nice 
 old gentleman — on a visit to Lesiat's tribe, with whom they 
 were friendly. I was glad to make their acquaintance, as I 
 hoped some day to hunt in their district. I had an interesting 
 chat with the old man, who had brought me a little honey, and 
 gave him a present. He described their part of the country as 
 a renowned elephant preserve, and said truly, as I knew from 
 what I had heard elsewhere, that it had always been celebrated 
 as such. After these interviews Lesiat's young bloods danced 
 for me. Their dances are similar to those of the Masai, con- 
 sisting mainly of jumping up and down accompanied by singing. 
 The music is, of course, of a barbaric and primitive kind, but 
 rather tuneful. I was very sorry I had no meat to give my 
 visitors ; but, as a matter of fact, I had not a scrap for myself 
 or I would have shared it with them, as they knew well. 
 Indeed I was having rather starvation times just then, and felt 
 a bit stale, as the result of constant hard exercise with little that
 
 232 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AERICA chap. 
 
 is wholesome or satisfying in the way of food ; an unsuitable 
 combination. I had rarely been out of meat before on hunting 
 expeditions ; but luck was against me now, for though I went 
 out on purpose to shoot some the next day, I returned unsuc- 
 cessful. I saw game — oryx, giraffe, etc. — but the wind was 
 unfavourable, so I had to come back empty-handed to starve 
 again. Lesiat came again, in hopes, no doubt, that I should 
 have killed something ; for he knew by experience that I would 
 share my last morsel with him. He had no encouraging news 
 to give me : however, in the evening one of his men brought 
 word that elephants were in the part of the bush not far from 
 his present camp. Cheered by this, I decided to put off my 
 journey on to the mountain, for which I had made preparations, 
 another day. 
 
 It is unnecessary to weary the reader with a detailed descrip- 
 tion of the next day's hunt, as it was an exact repetition of my 
 recent experience with Lorgete. The scrub was of the densest ; 
 the wind any way — when there was a breath at all — and Lesiat 
 rather fussy and irritating. The bull I came up to stood 
 directly facing me in a narrow, hardly passable track, in the 
 midst of impenetrable thicket which covered it even in front, so 
 that I could not possibly get in a shot at its chest. Of course 
 it got my wind, and disappeared instantly with a sudden rush. 
 Lesiat was disheartened, I nearly heart-broken, and camp a 
 long weary way off. So I gave up and tramped back, tired 
 and discomfited. The glimpse I had got of its load-apiece 
 tusks did not lessen the chagrin I felt. 
 
 Lesiat showed no inclination to accompany me to the 
 " subugo " (as the elevated forest tracts are called by the Masai 
 and Ndorobo tribes). The word is often mistaken for the 
 name of a locality, and appears as such in many maps ; but in 
 reality it denotes the character of the forest — a kind found on 
 high mountain ranges and plateaux of considerable altitude in 
 many parts of East Central Africa. The most characteristic 
 tree of the majority of these true forests, which are nurtured by
 
 X EXCURSIONS FROM EL BOGOI 233 
 
 the comparative moisture of such cool heights, is the juniper, a 
 conifer with foHage reminding one strongly of that of the 
 " arbor vitae " though much less dense. Lesiat said that if I 
 killed any elephants, not too far away, he would follow me to 
 eat them on receiving news of my success. Where he had 
 been lately encamped on the mountains was only just over the 
 brow, near which they had killed the two I had heard about ; 
 and he would, he said, on no account go down the slopes on 
 the western side. The reason he gave for his objection to 
 visiting that region was that it was infested with man-eating 
 lions ; and he told me the following story as proof of this, and 
 to account for his aversion to that part of the country. I give 
 it just as he told it me. 
 
 When he was a young man, he was once wandering there 
 with a companion in search of honey — the usual occupation of 
 these people. While pursuing their quest, he was suddenly 
 sprung upon by a lion, which seized him by the head and began 
 dragging him away. As it passed, with him in its mouth, close 
 to a thick bushy tree, he (according to his own account) 
 managed to get his head among the branches and thus delay 
 his captor's progress, at the same time calling to his companion 
 for help. The latter let drive an arrow into the lion, which 
 then transferred its attentions to him, letting go Lesiat. Lesiat, 
 after having had his head in the beast's mouth, did not care to 
 pursue the controversy further, so ran away shouting and left 
 his friend to be eaten. The lion, he explained, did not die. 
 In proof of his story he showed me the scars on his head, 
 which were plain enough. I pointed out that this must have 
 happened a great many years ago, as he was now an elderly 
 man ; but he maintained that the man-eater was still haunting 
 the neighbourhood, and that it was not the only one that preyed 
 on human beings in that part.
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 A trying march — A Swahili yarn — Shoot an uncommon gazelle — The "high veldt" 
 — A jackal claims relationship — A curious episode — Thomson's gazelle and 
 Jackson's hartebeeste — My "lucky camp" — A new branch of obstetrics — A 
 land flowing with honey — My ivory store- — A welcome sight — Disturbing a 
 siesta — A gardener's opportunity — Death of a favourite — A photographer's 
 disguise — Our route to Lake Rudolph — A providential escape. 
 
 On 9th October I climbed the range, accompanied by Baithai 
 and two Xdorobo youths, and of course my usual little party 
 of nine or ten men carrying my hunting equipment. We had 
 a terribly trying march. Baithai took us straight up the 
 almost precipitous mountain side, where there was no track of 
 any sort. After struggling through dense thickets at the base, 
 we found the lower part of the ascent covered with a thick low 
 growth of brushwood, very disagreeable to get through, and 
 above that the dry grass was as slippery as ice. This on such 
 an excessively steep gradient made the long climb a most 
 arduous and trying one in the broiling heat. When, at last, 
 the pleasant cool shade of the forest was reached on the 
 summit, the relief was unspeakable, after the fierce glare of the 
 burning sun on the steep hillside to which we had been 
 exposed all the morning while laboriously mounting step by 
 step some 3000 feet. Once on the top, our hard work was 
 over. We could walk with comfort among the stems of tall 
 trees, there being but little undergrowth except in the valleys, 
 and had a welcome rest by a little stream (the head of El
 
 FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 Bogoi) which we soon came to, in whose clear cold water my 
 thirsty men were glad to slake their thirst. 
 
 I soon pushed on, and reached the camping-ground Baithai 
 recommended soon after 2 P.M. ; but most of the porters had 
 stopped behind and lost our trail, and were not brought in by 
 the Ndorobo sent in search till near sundown. It was a 
 picturesque spot by a little, open, grassy glade, below which in 
 a hollow, the head of a ravine, was a spring whose water 
 flowed westward. The whole of the tops and western slopes 
 of this range are clothed with forest, cold and damp and 
 gloomy, the trees (which in some parts are of considerable size, 
 attaining occasionally to perhaps even 100 feet in height) 
 festooned with mosses, and every hollow with its swampy 
 stream. It is a dismal and depressing place, and strange 
 creatures emit weird and melancholy cries all night ; sounds 
 which puzzle one as to whether they are produced by bird, 
 beast or reptile. 
 
 Squareface and Baithai had gone on ahead in the afternoon 
 to look for spoor, and found some quite fresh not far off, and 
 also heard the elephants, so in the morning we went to look for 
 these. The night had been fine, without even a mountain 
 mist, but there was a heavy dew and the still air of the early 
 morning was chilly. It is needless to recount all our tedious 
 windings on this day, as it proved another blank. We followed 
 fresh spoor, which we picked up near where the elephants had 
 been heard the afternoon before ; but they had wound about 
 and separated, and must afterwards have got our wind, for 
 though we persevered assiduously till well on in the afternoon, 
 through many steep and slippery kloofs, and even once heard 
 them, we could never come within sight. Then the tracks 
 became involved and difficult to puzzle out ; it was thundering 
 and beginning to rain, and our guides said that if we followed 
 farther they would not be able to find the way back to camp, 
 so I turned back heavy-hearted and empty-handed once 
 more.
 
 236 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 It was hard work, but the forest was beautiful and interest- 
 ing. Where fairly level, as on the ridges, the ground was 
 tolerably open among the tall, straight tree-trunks ; but in the 
 steep kloofs of the streams and numerous little boggy tributaries 
 (all eventually joining a branch of the Seya) there was much 
 undergrowth. Everywhere were signs of elephants frequenting 
 the forest, but, except here and there a little rhino dung, of no 
 other game. Pigeons were numerous, and the wings of the 
 plantain-eaters lit up with flashes of crimson the sombre grey- 
 beard moss with which many of the trees were draped, or 
 streaked the green canopy of foliage as one looked down over 
 ravines resounding with their noisy but pleasant cries. There 
 was a long, heavy shower in the evening, and the night was 
 cold and misty. 
 
 I had been working pretty hard for some time now, with 
 no success to stimulate me, on a not very wholesome nor 
 nourishing diet (namely, beans and wild green stuff), and often 
 getting insufficient sleep, so that I felt a bit slack ; and know- 
 ing how this is apt to affect one's nerves and through them 
 spoil one's shooting, I concluded that a day's rest would do me 
 no harm. So that the next day ( 1 1 th October) I stayed in 
 camp and pottered about in the forest, where there was plenty 
 to interest one, catching butterflies or admiring beautiful little 
 tree-frogs and rare birds ; while Squareface and Baithai went 
 out in one direction, and Juma with another Ndorobo in the 
 opposite one, to look for spoor. 
 
 In the afternoon I was strolling about in the forest not far 
 from camp when I met Squareface returning laden with fresh 
 elephant meat. As I had not fired a shot the day before, I 
 wondered how he had procured it, until he explained that he 
 had shot a small cow himself He said that he had got in 
 among a herd without knowing it, and that this one had 
 charged him, and declared that he had only fired one shot. I 
 knew the Sv/ahili character better than to believe this yarn, 
 and did not feel at all pleased, being sure that he must have
 
 XI FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 237 
 
 driven the herd away. Still, the meat was acceptable and I 
 did not upbraid him. It transpired long afterwards, though, 
 that he had used a number of cartridges. My fears about the 
 elephants leaving the neighbourhood were also verified, as will 
 presently appear. He knew that I never allowed him to use 
 his rifle, which he carried merely as a weapon of defence ; but 
 I expect he was tempted to try his hand by coming upon the 
 elephants in open forest, where it would be easy to get near 
 and obtain a clear shot from the safe cover of the trees. Juma 
 brought no news of any use. He was out till sundown and 
 saw the spoor of three travellers only, going south. 
 
 The day had been cloudy and showery and the night was 
 cold and wet, and it still rained in the morning when I started 
 out again myself with Juma and one Ndorobo, Squareface with 
 one or two more of my men going to fetch the teeth of his 
 elephant and some meat, while Baithai was off to summon his 
 family to the feast. We took a long round, crossing the deep 
 valley of the main stream draining this part of the range (from 
 the crest on the opposite side of which I got a fine view over 
 the open country beyond for a long distance), and then descend- 
 ing to where the valleys join the level country and begin to 
 open out into green, grassy savannahs. I determined to come 
 and camp in this pleasant borderland between the forest and 
 the open plains ; and 1 hoped still to find elephants somewhere, 
 though it was clear the herd Squareface had disturbed had 
 shifted its quarters, since the only fresh tracks we could find 
 were those made in its retreat. Still there was plenty of 
 recent spoor everywhere, and anyway it would be interesting to 
 see something of the country on this side of the range and find 
 out what game it contained. 
 
 So the next day we moved down, camping in a little glade 
 close to the edge of the open country, on the banks of a strong 
 stream. The descent on this side of the mountains, though 
 sufficiently difficult with loads, is nothing like so steep as their 
 eastern face, and the plains here must be much higher than the
 
 238 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 country on the El Bogoi side.^ In the afternoon I took a stroll 
 into the open and shot a brace of Grant's gazelle. I found that 
 they differed from those on the other side of the range (and 
 everywhere else I had been) in having longer hair and dark 
 bands on the sides, while the shade of the back is also deeper 
 than in the common kind. I brought home a skin of this 
 variety and it is now in the British Museum. I am indebted to 
 Mr. Oldfield Thomas for the following description of this variety 
 which has appeared in the Annals and JSIagazine of Natural 
 History, November 1897. 
 
 Gazella grantii, notata, subsp. n. 
 
 Similar in all essential characters to the typical G. grajitn, but dis- 
 tinguished by the greater length, breadth and intensity of both the dark 
 and Hght lateral bands. The former is nearly black, the latter pale buff, 
 and succeeded above posteriorly by a second dark band, lighter than the 
 main lateral band, darker than the centre of the back. Pygal band black 
 and strongly defined. 
 
 Habitat, W. slope of the Lorogi Mountains, British East Africa. 
 
 Collected and presented by Arthur H. Neumann, Esq. 
 
 This handsome Gazelle has since been obtained in the same region by 
 Mr. H. S. H. Cavendish. 
 
 I remained here from 13th to 19th October. I never 
 succeeded in coming up with elephants, which seemed to 
 have been thoroughly scared by Squareface's escapade, so that 
 his small cow probably cost me the loss of several pairs of 
 tusks. We found plenty of evidence of their frequenting the 
 district in numbers, and once or twice came upon fresh spoor, 
 but only of travelling parties. Nevertheless I much enjoyed 
 my stay in this beautiful district. Its character is totally 
 distinct from that of the other side of the range, and the game 
 is also mainly of different species. Just at the foot of the 
 mountains, where the forest and grass land meet, is a charming 
 
 ^ Having no instruments to determine altitudes, I can only make guesses ; but I 
 should judge the respective heights to be about as follows : — Country at foot of range 
 on eastern side, about 4000 feet ; Lorogi Mountains, from 7000 to 8000 feet ; plains on 
 western side, 5500 feet.
 
 XI FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 239 
 
 bit of country, well watered and verdant, which struck me as a 
 most desirable locality. The grass, kept green by the frequent 
 rains which the mountains attract (it rained, often with thunder, 
 almost every day I was there), is not rank, and, while timber is 
 abundant on the adjacent slopes, the open country has the 
 character of what is called " high veldt " in South Africa, and 
 gives one the idea of capital grazing, suggestive of horses and 
 sheep. The climate, too, seems healthy, with cool nights and 
 not very hot days, while the air is clear and fresh. 
 
 Being anxious to see something of the open plains, and 
 particularly to make the nearer acquaintance of some large 
 antelopes I had seen in the distance once or twice, of whose 
 species (though apparently a hartebeeste) I could not be 
 certain, I gave up a day to visiting a small lake, called by 
 the Ndorobos " Kisima," which I had heard of On the way 
 I succeeded in stalking two young bulls of the hartebeeste 
 whose species I was anxious to identify, and shot them both. 
 One dropped on the spot, and proved to be Jackson's harte- 
 beeste ; the other went off slowly, lying down at intervals. 
 After waiting a little while I followed, and, when it ran, set 
 " Pice " (my tiny terrier, about eight months old only) after it. 
 He chased and brought it to bay, bravely ; but, when I got 
 near, he suddenly left it and fled back towards me. I could 
 not make out why, at first, but as he came nearer I saw a 
 jackal running after him. I had sat down to avoid alarming 
 the hartebeeste when its attention was no longer occupied by 
 Pice, so that the jackal came within a few yards before it 
 noticed me and retreated. No doubt it had recognised a 
 relative in my dog, and wished to make its acquaintance ; 
 indeed, I had once before had the opportunity of observing 
 similar advances to a dog of mine on the part of a jackal. 
 I then encouraged Pice to take up the chase again ; but now 
 a big bull of the same species as the one I was in pursuit of, 
 coming from a herd we had passed near, took up the running, 
 and jealously chased my wretched wounded buck.
 
 CHAP. XI FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 241 
 
 On coming over the next rise no hartebeeste were visible ; 
 but soon I spied my terrier and two jackals, standing not far 
 apart. I feared that Pice, having overcome his first terror, 
 had got interested in these, and given up the pursuit of the 
 antelope ; but, on getting near, I found it lying down close to 
 him. He sometimes lay down, and then would run round to 
 have a look at his quarry, the jackals waiting a little way off 
 (evidently for the buck to succumb), while vultures hovered over 
 the poor brute, in expectation of the approaching end. It was 
 altogether a curious episode, and, except that I was sorry for 
 the sufferings of the hartebeeste, almost worth making an in- 
 different shot to witness. However, calling up the men, we 
 soon caught and despatched it, though it was just on the point 
 of death. I had left a man to skin and carry in the first buck, 
 which was near our camp, and this one I protected from 
 vultures with a white handkerchief fluttering in the breeze, 
 according to my usual custom, and left till our return. 
 
 As we got farther away from the hills the country became 
 drier and drier, showing how very local are the rains, and there 
 was hardly any game, it being attracted by green grass near 
 the forest edge. The lake I found to be a sheet of stinking, 
 greenish water, of no great size, very salt and quite undrink- 
 able. Its surface, and some little islets of whitish rock, were 
 covered with ducks and other water-fowl — a most interesting 
 sight, reminding one of Naivasha on a small scale. On our 
 way back we picked up the hartebeeste meat. In this district 
 I also found Thomson's gazelle, one of which I shot, for 
 purposes of identification, and brought the skin and skull to 
 England. This is the only point on the whole of my journeys 
 between Mombasa and the north end of Rudolph where this 
 gazelle and Jackson's hartebeeste are met with, and hence 
 appears to be the extreme northern limit of their range. 
 Thus the Lorogi Mountains here form a distinct line of 
 demarkation in the geographical distribution of certain species. 
 
 I saw no Grevy's zebra here, but large herds of one of the 
 
 R
 
 # 
 
 242 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 varieties of the smaller class, of which Burchell's is the typical 
 species. I shot one, and carefully noted its characteristics, as 
 well as those of others which I had the opportunity of observing 
 at short range through my glasses ; but I unfortunately did 
 not bring home a skin, as I was disappointed in my expecta- 
 tion of procuring a specimen on my return journey. The 
 peculiarities, as noted in my diary, are : " Stripes black and 
 very broad, and ground colour white in all (both mares and 
 stallions)." They also struck me as being unusually small, 
 but in this I might be in error through my eye having become 
 accustomed to the upstanding form of the splendid animal 
 called Grevy's zebra. The measurements of the one I killed 
 (an adult male) were : height at withers, 3 feet 1 1 inches ; 
 length of head, i foot 9 inches ; ditto, from between ears to 
 root of tail (straight), 5 feet 7 inches ; tail (without tuft), 
 I foot 5^ inches; girth, 4 feet 10 inches (measured just after 
 death and entered on spot). I subsequently came to the 
 conclusion that these zebra did not differ from those of the 
 Burchell type which I met with elsewhere on this expedition 
 (though, as I had not kept the skin of the one just described, 
 I could not compare them side by side), for one which I shot 
 to the eastward of the Lorogis (also an adult male) measured 
 exactly the same in height. 
 
 As I knew that Abdulla might be expected to arrive at 
 El Bogoi any day now, I wanted to be at hand. Accordingly, 
 on 19th October we started to return, crossing the mountains 
 by a different and much better route. We followed a good 
 elephant path, with a comparatively easy gradient, most of the 
 way to the top, and camped for the night close to Lesiat's old 
 kraal, near the eastern summit and overlooking the low country. 
 It was a pleasant march, through fine shady forest, in some 
 places the trees of considerable size. The juniper is chiefly 
 on the western slopes, but not, as a rule, very large. The 
 huts in this Ndorobo encampment in the forest (now deserted) 
 were thatched with leaves, as there was no grass there ; they
 
 FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 243 
 
 were built among the tree -stems, with no attempt at a 
 clearing. 
 
 In the morning we descended, early, the almost perpendicular 
 face of the range by a fairly well -beaten path to my old 
 " lucky camp," as I called it, in a glade at the foot, whence 
 I had hunted the year before and bagged several fine bulls. 
 On the way we passed through the present abode of Lesiat's 
 
 Ndorobo Encampment in the Subugo" Forest on the 
 LoROGi Mountains. 
 
 (P'rom a Pliotograph by the .Vl thok.) 
 
 clan, in a romantic gorge near the mountain's base, the funny 
 little untidy huts picturesquely stuck here and there where 
 space could be found among great rocks and trees. A bevy 
 of comely " dittos " (damsels) greeted me with friendly hand- 
 shakes. Lcsiat himself, the " laigvvanane " (or headman), as 
 they called him, was out. However, they all told me that 
 elephants were about again and had been seen the previous 
 day — news which Lesiat himself confirmed in the evening.
 
 244 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 The much higher temperature here to what it is where we had 
 come from was very noticeable. 
 
 It proved true enough that elephants were in the neighbour- 
 hood again, but my bad luck still pursued me. At this time 
 there was hardly any wind, and what there was used to come 
 in eddying currents, rendering it almost impossible to approach 
 game in these difficult jungles without its getting your scent. 
 Only once during two hard days did I succeed in getting a 
 snap-shot, and then failed to score. 
 
 On the evening of this second day, after returning dis- 
 appointed to camp, Lesiat and his wife came down, bringing 
 me mead. It was very good, and they seemed to have found 
 it so themselves, for they were unusually talkative. He had 
 often pressed me to give his wife medicine to enable her to 
 bear him another child. He now declared that she had one in 
 the small of her back, where it had been a year, but could not 
 get it into the proper position to be brought forth, and that 
 God refused to allow her to be delivered. He put her hand in 
 mine and implored me to give him some charrn, that he might 
 have additional offspring. Though 1 did not want to seem to 
 make light of his distress, I could not help laughing, in spite of 
 my own dejection. He admitted that she had already had 
 five children ; but, on my delicately hinting that this was surely 
 no despicable family for one woman to have borne him, he 
 scouted the idea and declared that she wanted twenty ! I then 
 ventured to vaguely suggest that, as she already shared his 
 affection with another lady, perhaps she would not resent a 
 third (and younger one) being received into the partnership and 
 accorded another small slice of his heart. But to this he 
 replied dejectedly that Ndorobo girls would have nothing to say 
 to an old man. I had always told him I was ignorant of this 
 branch of medicine, but he refused to believe me, and on this 
 occasion was determined not to be put off with excuses and 
 promised me fabulous ivory if I would help him. Seeing that 
 he was in a particularly impracticable mood to-day, I persuaded
 
 Xr^ 
 
 XI FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 245 
 
 him to defer all our business till I got back to my main camp, 
 whither I meant to return in a day or two. 
 
 In the meantime I visited his kraal and paid my respects to 
 Mrs. Lesiat (that is, the principal Mrs. Lesiat, for there were 
 two) in her own hut. Though mere shelters of the most primi- 
 tive kind, and not even weather-proof, unless where a skin may 
 have been thrown over the roof, these huts are not dirty inside, 
 nor do they seem to harbour noxious insects. The people 
 themselves, too, appear to be clean in this respect, and do not, 
 like most of the South African races (the Swazies, for example), 
 improve every spare shining moment in examining each other's 
 heads. They also compare favourably in other ways — in 
 appearance, manners, and liberality — with those greedy, stingy, 
 untaking people. Indeed they are the pleasantest natives I 
 have come across, and far less grasping and objectionable than 
 most Africans. They are also healthy, clean-skinned, and free 
 from loathsome diseases, and, though a small race as a rule, are 
 wiry, active, and enduring. Their children always look sleek 
 and well fed, showing what a wholesome food honey, which 
 may be called their staff of life, is, and I saw none with skin 
 diseases or pot bellies such as disfigure the children of the 
 agricultural tribes. 
 
 The Ndorobos live on what they can pick up. To call 
 them a race of hunters is hardly correct ; for though they, or 
 rather a few individuals among them, slay an elephant or two 
 and an odd rhinoceros now and then, with poisoned harpoons 
 either thrown by hand or suspended in heavy shafts as traps 
 over paths, they kill but little other game. Their mainstay is 
 honey. This is a great country for flowers, and bees are very 
 plentiful ; and, besides constantly hunting for the wild nests, 
 like some other tribes they put up tubs made of hollowed logs 
 in the trees for the wild bees to hive in, and when the season is 
 favourable the land flows with honey. But they are as often 
 as not in a state of semi-starvation, supporting life on roots, 
 berries, and old hoarded pieces of dry rhinoceros hide. In
 
 246 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 times of famine the aged and weakly succumb, and this 
 doubtless tends to preserve the stamina of the race. The 
 price of a wife among them is ten bee-tubs, as going concerns ; 
 but Lesiat explained, when asked why, since he was so anxious 
 for more progeny, he did not marry another (for they are not 
 restricted in the number they may wed), that the girls can 
 choose their own husbands and only marry young men. 
 
 The Ndorobos of the present day are a mixed race. You 
 see quite different types among them. Some are black, with 
 negro characteristics, others comparatively light-coloured and 
 have the better features and hair of the Masai. This is ex- 
 plained by information I got in the course of interesting con- 
 versations I had with Lesiat and others of themselves. 
 
 Originally there were small, cattle-owning tribes in this 
 country, akin to the Wakwavi and Masai, but weak and dis- 
 united. The sites of some of their former kraals have been 
 pointed out to me and are still discernible. The Wakwavi, 
 who then frequented the pasture land west of the Lorogis (which 
 are, in fact, the north-eastern extremity of the region common!}- 
 called Leikipia), where their former cattle-tracks can be even 
 now plainly made out, raided all their cattle, and were subse- 
 quently themselves driven out by invading Masai. Row-row's 
 people — now living under the eastern side of Kenia — are the 
 remnants of the former, while the nearest Masai are to-day at the 
 western base of that mountain. But the survivors of the petty 
 tribes of this district, who had lost their live stock, joined the 
 original Ndorobos, who from time immemorial had lived as 
 these do to-day, and took to their mode of life. One old man 
 (of genuine woolly-headed, negroid type) was pointed out to 
 me as a specimen of the pure old Xdorobo stock. 
 
 Since Abdulla and his men had left on their second trip to 
 Mthara, ill luck had invariably attended me, with the result that 
 either through unfavourable conditions or my own clumsiness, 
 or a combination of both, I had not killed a single elephant. 
 We had, indeed, picked up, during my week in the Lorogis, one
 
 XI FROM EL BO GO I TO LAKE RUDOLPH 247 
 
 passable pair of teeth and one or two very small ones ; but 
 these were a poor reward for all our efforts. I may in passing — 
 apropos of the finding of tusks in the forest — take the oppor- 
 tunity of pointing out that the statements sometimes met with 
 in books, to the effect that there is some mystery about what 
 becomes of the remains of elephants that die in the forests, are 
 erroneous. I have often and often met with their skulls and 
 bones in the course of my hunting, and, if they are not more 
 commonly seen, it is because travellers do not generally spend 
 their time, as I did, in traversing these in all directions. That 
 the tusks are not so often found is obviously because they have 
 already, at some previous time, been appropriated by natives ; 
 but I have, in the course of my experience in Central Africa, 
 come across a good many, at one time and another. 
 
 I now began to get very impatient for the return of my 
 caravan ; for I was eager to be off northward into new hunting- 
 grounds, where I hoped to find the odds not quite so long 
 against the hunter as they are in this impracticable dense scrub. 
 The elephants seemed to have left our neighbourhood, too, now, 
 and I did not care to make any more lengthy excursions, so I 
 occupied myself with adjusting loads and completing, as far as 
 possible, my preparations for continuing my journey. I had a 
 large pit dug, in a suitable spot among some trees hard by, 
 and buried all my ivory, taking care to injure the creeping 
 plants which covered the ground as little as possible, so that 
 after a shower or two of rain all traces of the ground having 
 been disturbed would soon be obliterated. I, however, showed 
 Lesiat and Baithai the spot, so that, on my return, should it 
 have been tampered with, they might not be able to disclaim 
 responsibility. 
 
 They often visited me, and kept me well supplied with 
 honey. I sometimes gave Lesiat as many beans as his wife 
 could carry away ; but he did not now seem to care much 
 for any food I gave him except meat, which is always 
 welcome to an Ndorobo. The fact was, honey was very
 
 248 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AERICA chap. 
 
 abundant at this time — " like water," as Lesiat himself ex- 
 pressed it, — and when that is the case they will not trouble 
 about anything else. The bush was white with the blossoms 
 of a black-barked tree with hooked thorns, common in this 
 part, and the air fragrant with their scent, giving the bees an 
 ample harvest ; and Lesiat assured me that they could tap 
 their bee-tubs twice a month. 
 
 By the end of October Abdulla had still not returned, though 
 he had now been away thirty days instead of the twenty we 
 had agreed upon. I therefore determined, though rather re- 
 luctantly, to go on ahead as far as ]\Iount Nyiro and wait for 
 him there. I hoped I might find elephants in that district now, 
 and, at all events, it would be less monotonous than waiting 
 longer at El Bogoi, where it was troublesome even to procure 
 meat. So on the 30th, as there was still no news of the 
 caravan, I started, taking all but two men, whom I left in 
 charge, with my own personal baggage and a couple of donkeys 
 carrying food, leaving orders that Abdulla was to follow with 
 the whole outfit as soon as he arrived. 
 
 Owing to there having been much rain in these parts during 
 the past wet season, there was more grass and tangled weeds 
 than when I went through the year before, making our progress 
 slow and arduous, so that it was noon on the second day when 
 we got near the Barasaloi. But what a difference on coming 
 within sight of it ! Instead of dry burning sand, a welcome 
 silver stream w^as visible through the green mimosas as we 
 approached ; a sight which made me thank God fervently. On 
 the march I had shot a Grant's gazelle for meat, picking out the 
 ram, for the sake of my men, on account of its much larger size ; 
 although, when shooting purely for my own larder, I generally 
 chose the tenderer venison of the doe — nor do I see that there 
 is anything unsportsmanlike in making such a selection in a 
 wild country where one has to live by one's rifle, and where 
 mine was the only one that ever took toll of the game. Not 
 but that I wanted meat myself, too, now ; but my plodding
 
 XI FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 249 
 
 porters were always my first consideration when travelling, and 
 I was well satisfied to take a bit of whatever I found it most 
 advantageous to shoot for their benefit. 
 
 Strolling through the green bush bordering the stream in 
 the afternoon, accompanied only by Pice, a short way only 
 from camp, I saw a rhinoceros cow with a calf. But as, with 
 the {&\\ men I had, we could not carry more meat, I left her 
 alone. When on my way back, Pice, as was his wont, ran 
 under a shady tree just ahead ; and before I knew anything 
 about it, out charged the rhino with the calf after him. The 
 dog made straight for me (I was only a few yards off), pursued 
 by the irate cow whose siesta he had disturbed, and I had to 
 bang off my rifle hurriedly in her face to turn her, which it 
 fortunately did. Lions roared during the night, and mosquitoes 
 made almost as much, and a more disagreeable, noise. 
 
 In the morning we had but a short march to the other 
 branch of the Barasaloi, called the Suya ; and it is remarkable 
 that whereas on my previous journey, the year before, the 
 Barasaloi was dry — not a sign of moisture to be found even by 
 digging, — while this spruit had plenty of water, now the former 
 was running strong all over its sandy bed, but here there was 
 much less water than there had been then, and in the afternoon 
 it almost ceased to flow. This is an illustration of how very 
 partial and uncertain the rains are in this country, and shows 
 how dangerous it is to calculate on finding water even a short 
 way ahead (though you may have got plenty there formerly) 
 because there happens to be no scarcity in one part. 
 
 I stayed over another day here in order to have a look 
 down the valley in case there might be any elephants about, 
 and took advantage of the delay to send a couple of men ahead 
 to hide a bucket of water some four hours' march along the 
 route we should have to pass (the next being a very long stage), 
 so that the men might have a good drink, in addition to what 
 they could carry themselves, on our road to Ongata Barta. I 
 found nothing but old spoor, proving there were no elephants
 
 250 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 near now, so took a round over the hills, and shot a couple of 
 Grant's gazelle for meat. 
 
 Ongata Xdamez, as this locality is called by the Ndorobos 
 of the adjoining districts, has the appearance of being a very 
 sporting country. It looked much drier now than when I was 
 here before, but the numerous well-worn paths leading to the 
 water, all freshly trampled with rhinoceros and other foot- 
 prints, suggested abundance of game, though it seemed to range 
 far afield in search of more succulent food than the withered 
 herbage (resembling scraggy heather covered with fine sharp 
 thorns) afforded. The rhinoceros " scrapes " were numerous 
 and full. What I mean by a " scrape " is a wide saucer-shaped 
 hole, which it is the peculiar habit of the black rhinoceros to 
 scoop out in the ground before depositing its droppings. The 
 same holes are used regularly, and other animals, such as zebras 
 and gazelles, often add their contributions, so that accumulations 
 of manure are formed. They made me think of " the old man 
 with the muck rake " — as in my childhood we used to call the 
 ancient rustic who, with barrow and shovel, collected in the 
 village road fertilising material for his allotment. Here he 
 might fill not only his barrow but a cart, often, at a single 
 " scrape." The thoughts of the potatoes and cabbages that old 
 fellow's garden would produce made one long for something 
 more than the dinner of bitter herbs that is one's contentment 
 here! In connection with these same "scrapes" I may point 
 out that the furrows it is this animal's habit to draw, sometimes 
 for several yards along the ground, from the spot where this 
 natural process has been gone through, are not made, as is 
 sometimes supposed, with its horn, but with its feet. 
 
 The plateau between the Lorogi and Mathews ranges has 
 been much cut up by the valleys of the Seya and its tributaries, 
 of which the Barasaloi and the Suya are the principal. Their 
 main valleys are worn to a considerable depth and bordered by 
 much denuded hilly ground with a gravelly soil, from which 
 many conspicuous white quartz reefs crop up in parts. The
 
 FROM EL BOGOl TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 high koppie called Murkeben is not, as appears on the maps, 
 part of the latter range, but the highest point of an isolated 
 rocky ridge half-way between the two. Knowing our way and 
 the distance before us, we had no difficulty — by starting about 
 noon, marching till sundown, and on again at 4 A.]\r. — in 
 reaching the water at Ongata Barta a little before noon the 
 following day. The water I had taken the precaution to have 
 
 Camp under Mount Nyiro. 
 
 (From a Photograph by the Authok.) 
 
 planted on our line was much appreciated ; fortunatel}', too, 
 the weather was not very hot, so none suffered. 
 
 We reached the stream which flows out of Donyo le Nyiro 
 (that is. Mount Nyiro) early on the 6th November, and camped 
 in a pleasant open lawn on its banks. When I came on here 
 I expected my main caravan under Abdulla to catch me up 
 any day, and hoped to be able to continue the march with the 
 whole party in ten days or a fortnight at most. But, through 
 a series of untoward events, we were delayed altogether about 
 twice that time, and my patience was nearly worn out when.
 
 252 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 at length, nearly a month after my arrival, we were able to 
 march once more. Abdulla was much longer in following 
 than I had expected, and, when he at last arrived, it turned 
 out that on reaching El Bogoi he had found that the men in 
 charge there had lost the donkeys, with the result that when, 
 after several days' search, they were recovered, they had almost 
 perished from thirst and one died in consequence. Then the 
 two that I had brought on had to be sent back for some loads 
 that had been left, and on the way one was killed, one dark wet 
 night, by a lion. This one was a great favourite of mine and 
 the handsomest and best I had, as is sure to be the case when 
 any evil befalls one of your animals. I was particularly grieved 
 about these mishaps to my cherished donkeys, which I had 
 cared for almost like children. But one must take all mis- 
 fortunes, annoyances, and delays philosophically in Africa, 
 especially trying though they be when brought about by 
 carelessness. 
 
 On this visit I succeeded in getting in touch with the 
 natives inhabiting the mountain, and got some of them to 
 come to my camp. They call themselves the Sambur tribe 
 (not Samburu, as it is generally spelt). They live entirely in 
 the mountains, other communities of the same tribe inhabiting 
 the not distant heights of Kulale and Marasambiti. These 
 people have been able to keep their live stock in spite of raids, 
 thanks to their mountain fastnesses. They live solely on the 
 produce of their cattle and do not cultivate. They do not 
 differ much in type from the Masai. One old man, whom I 
 saw a good deal of, was a particularly handsome specimen, with 
 regular features. I did not find them satisfactory people to 
 deal with. They had been accustomed to Svvahili traders, 
 whose custom it is to give presents to any native who tells 
 them pleasant news, the consequence being that they are 
 constantly fooled by the false reports which they have paid for. 
 
 I learnt that a party of Wakamba, from south of the Tana, 
 had been here two or three months ago hunting elephants, and
 
 XI FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 253 
 
 I saw the skeletons of some they had killed. They hunt in 
 large parties, using bows and poisoned arrows and wound a 
 great many besides what they kill. I could find none, though 
 I tried in all directions except on the mountain-top. That 
 was covered with heavy clouds during the whole time I was in 
 its neighbourhood, for the weather was very stormy. I was 
 told there were elephants in the " subugo " forest on the summit, 
 but as it was always raining there I did not attempt to climb 
 the mountain. It was bad enough below, the wind rushing 
 down with terrific force on to a camp I had for a day or two 
 close under the western face, where it is very precipitous, 
 seeming to come straight down the cliffs like a waterfall. 
 
 Nyiro is neither a peak nor a range ; but rather a block, 
 with apparently a considerable extent of mountain forest on its 
 top. Owing to its isolation, surrounded by waterless plains 
 and cut off by wide uninhabited tracts from other districts, the 
 cattle plague which devastated East Central Africa several 
 years ago seems not to have reached these islands in the 
 desert. I gathered that the Sambur natives owned considerable 
 herds of cattle, though they keep them out of sight in the 
 ravines of the mountain. I noticed, too, the spoor of small 
 herds of buffalo once or twice, a rare sight now in Central 
 Africa. 
 
 Though I got tired of waiting here so long and met with 
 no elephants to reward my exertions in examining the 
 neighbourhood, it was as pleasant a place to be delayed in as 
 any on the route : a fine open country, a good stream of clear, 
 cold water, game enough within easy reach to keep the larder 
 supplied, and a healthy climate. One day I shot an ostrich, but, 
 though a cock, its plumes were damaged. There were a good 
 many about, and once or twice I saw large flocks of chicks. 
 Something must prey on these, or ostriches would be much 
 more numerous than they are. When the skin of my ostrich 
 was dry, I made an attempt to utilise it as a disguise {a la 
 Bushman) for the purpose of photographing living Grant's gazelle.
 
 254 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 With my camera in one hand, a stick supporting the bird's 
 head in the other, and the skin over my shoulders and back, I 
 approached in a stooping attitude, trying to look as much like 
 an ostrich as possible. But though the gazelles were evidently 
 puzzled by such a curious mixture of feathers and garments, 
 and allowed me to get nearer in their surprise than would 
 ordinarily be easy, all my blandishments and ostentatiously 
 unconcerned peckings at the ground failed to persuade them to 
 let me get within less than about fifty or sixty yards. I 
 found it very hot and uncomfortable under the greasy skin ; 
 and finally, after persevering in defiance of perspiration and 
 back-ache as long as my endurance could hold out, I had to 
 abandon the attempt with no other result than a couple of 
 abortive snaps. 
 
 I had to decide about the route to take before starting on 
 for the lake. The natives advised going round the eastern side 
 of the mountain, but I had not confidence enough in their 
 trustworthiness to rely on their guidance, and would not risk 
 marching with a loaded caravan through country unknown to 
 us without certain information about the water ahead. I there- 
 fore sent a few good men on, under Squareface, to explore as 
 far as the lake, but chose the western side of the mountain as 
 probably the best-watered, and likely to lead us more directly 
 to the shores of Rudolph. After an absence of several days 
 they returned with a favourable report, in so far as that there 
 was sufficient water, though they found the country very rugged 
 and stony. Better by far, though, to have some difficulties we 
 knew all about than to go a road none had tried and trust to 
 the doubtful guidance of unreliable savages ; ^ so I determined 
 without hesitation to follow this route. 
 
 A day or two before leaving this camp I narrowly escaped 
 being bitten by a very venomous snake, which I nearly sat on 
 in the grass. Luckily, when on the point of doing so, some- 
 
 1 I had learned by sad experience, in years gone by, what disastrous consequences to 
 a caravan might result from such a course.
 
 XI FROM EL BOGOI TO LAKE RUDOLPH 255 
 
 thing that looked like a toad caught my eye, beside my boot. 
 Thinking I had inadvertently trodden on a harmless reptile, I 
 was about to move my foot in compassion when I noticed a 
 black, forked-looking tongue darting viciously close to my right 
 foot, and, looking more carefully, saw that what I at first 
 took for a toad was in reality the villainous triangular head of 
 a large puff-adder, on whose neck I had set my foot, its body 
 swollen out as big as my thigh. By so providential a chance 
 had I held it fast in this way that it could not move its head 
 to strike. Having my rook rifle by me, I put the muzzle to 
 its head and sent a bullet through its brain. It measured 4 feet 
 8 inches long. Such lucky coincidences suggest to one that, 
 though we suffer many misfortunes, dangers are doubtless often 
 escaped unconsciously.
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 Final start for the lake — A desolate land — A curious fish — Trials during a hurricane 
 — Remains of a catastrophe — An aquatic race — Disturbed by a " shauri " — A 
 false alarm — A fisherman's paradise — Signs of Europeans — Remedy for lessening 
 the sick-roll — A fortunate coincidence — My first topi — At close quarters with a 
 rhino — Wealth of bird life — A feathered jockey — My cook's new entree — Simple 
 Christmas fare — The kraals of Reshiat. 
 
 On 2nd December I made a final start for the lake, feeling that 
 at last Reshiat was within my reach ; for I had sufficient food 
 for all hands to last, with care, two months. For the first two 
 days the going was comparatively easy, and water plentiful. 
 The western face of Nyiro, under which our course lay, is 
 almost precipitous and very grand, topped with dark forests 
 and cut by narrow, giddy-looking gorges flanked with red cliffs, 
 and here and there hang waterfalls from the mountain side, 
 filled with the outpourings of the heavy clouds which often cap 
 the summit. But all these clear, cold, rushing streams which 
 pour out of the mountain disappear as if by magic in two or 
 three miles. Occasionally gaps in the ridges to our left afforded 
 glimpses of a wide valley beyond, in which a small lake could 
 be seen shining far below. This is in fact, I suppose, the 
 connecting portion of the " rift " stretching southward (or rather 
 south by west) from Bassu in the direction of Baringo. 
 
 We were now entering among rough, stony hills, which 
 would have been hardly passable in places but for a capital 
 elephant path which we followed. It had probably been used
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 257 
 
 for ages, and in some parts was worn down into the solid rock 
 like a little cutting. Farther on we had to leave it, as it kept 
 too much to the right, probably leading to Kulale, and our 
 difficulties became greater. Constantly descending, we got 
 among still more terribly rugged hills, full of kloofs and chasms, 
 the tops flanked by red precipices and the valleys full of 
 boulders from top to bottom. The formation is a marvellous 
 jumble of different kinds of rocks, chucked about in chaotic 
 confusion. By the third day we had reached a very much 
 
 First Peep of Bassu from the South. 
 
 (P'rom a Photograph by the Author.) 
 
 lower level, and it was getting much hotter, while the vegetation 
 became scantier and drier. We had to climb over dividing 
 ridges and through narrow ravines, picking our way among the 
 fallen rocks, which caused much trouble to those in charge of 
 the donkeys, overthrowing loads, and cutting their packs. 
 
 At last, on the afternoon of 4th December, on getting on to 
 a rough, irregular sort of plateau, we came in sight of Bassu 
 (Lake Rudolph) ; and a fine sight it was, looking blue like the 
 sea. Beyond the island, near the south end, its waters stretched 
 dimly northward until lost in haze. In one or two places 
 
 S
 
 258 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 about this part I noticed a number of circles of large stones, 
 about three yards in diameter, evidently arranged by human 
 hands. These must have formed the ground-plan of some sort 
 of rude huts. But who made them, or what they could have 
 been doing in this desert, and why they should camp, even if 
 travelling, where there was no water, is a puzzle. These circles 
 of stones on bare ground are quite distinct from the heaps of 
 broken lava so often seen in a volcanic country, and which, 
 though they present the appearance of having been piled up 
 artificially, can only be due to natural causes. These " blows " 
 of rock (as I call them) I have always supposed to have been 
 caused by huge bubbles in the molten lava ; but whether I am 
 right or not I leave to more scientific travellers to determine. 
 For a while the going was easier ; but just at sundown we came 
 above a quite impassable descent for loaded donkeys, so bivou- 
 acked for the night in sight of a place where our pioneers told us 
 water was to be had, some two miles ahead, in another valley. 
 This had been a hard day, but we had seen the lake and 
 hoped to reach it on the morrow. But it proved farther than 
 it had appeared, for there was much broken ground between 
 which had not been visible from the plateau, as we had 
 looked over it to the water far out from the shore, and a great 
 drop had yet to be made before we could reach its brink. 
 During this day's march I had seen some koodoos (the large 
 species) among the hills and noticed a good deal of their spoor. 
 Though I had shot many in South Africa in former years, these 
 were the first I had actually seen myself in Central Africa, where 
 they are, as far as my own experience goes, very uncommon. 
 Few signs of other game were here ; an occasional zebra spoor 
 and a little old rhino dung now and then was all the evidence I 
 noticed. I observed a few of the rare glossy starlings of the 
 beautiful crested species {Galcopsar salvadorii), of which I had 
 obtained a specimen near Murkeben on my former trip ; but even 
 birds are scarce in this barren region. In the morning I got all 
 the donkey-loads carried down the declivity by sunrise, and we
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 259 
 
 then went on to the water. It was necessary to halt for some 
 time there for the men to cook, and to allow all to rest a while. 
 We then had more climbing over rocky hills, and it was not 
 till afternoon that we began the final descent towards the lake, 
 which was now really not far off. But we still had many steep 
 and difficult ridges of broken lava to negotiate, and at dusk we 
 were compelled to bivouac again without having reached the 
 shore, and to sleep once more without water, under a cliff 
 which gave a little shelter from the gale that was blowing. 
 
 At last, early on the morning of 6th December, we came 
 down the last step and reached the shore, and I had the satis- 
 faction of drinking and bathing in the bitter water of Lake 
 Rudolph. It is a desolate and forbidding land, but with a 
 wild grandeur of its own which had a great charm for me. 
 Rugged hills of bare, broken lava of all-sized chunks and every 
 kind of volcanic product, with hardly a vestige of vegetation, 
 rose all around from the water's edge. One perfect crater was 
 visible at the south-west corner of the lake. It may be 
 Teleki's volcano, but I saw no signs of activity. 
 
 We struck the lake at the south-east corner, and what we 
 had to do was to follow its shores round the eastern side to 
 its northern extremity. I knew that, though we might have 
 difficulties, we could not lose ourselves nor want for water, and 
 of food we had ample supplies, so I felt confident of reaching 
 Reshiat. We did not go much farther that day, but camped 
 on a pleasant bay where a deep gully came in. There were 
 some mimosa trees, lots of firewood, and good pickings for the 
 donkeys — all desirable attributes of a camping-ground, and by 
 no means everywhere to be found in this inhospitable region. 
 The ground was all stones, of course, — there is nothing else 
 there, — but I pitched my tent by tying the ropes to boulders. 
 It was necessary to make all securely fast, as a violent gale 
 blew unceasingly day and night now. The men caught lots of 
 fine fish of several kinds and enjoyed themselves immensely, 
 for Swahilis are very fond of fish and fishing. One of them
 
 26o ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA cha?. 
 
 showed me a curious little fish he had caught, covered with a 
 sort of prickles and marked with greenish stripes, which had 
 the power of blowing itself out. He said a similar kind was 
 found in the sea on the east coast. One of the fish I had for 
 dinner and found it good. The only game I saw, besides a 
 hippo or two, were a few grantii. Cormorants were numerous, 
 and an odd pair or two of Egyptian geese might be seen, but 
 not a duck of any kind. The lake has every appearance of 
 being deep at this southern end, the shores sloping steeply 
 down for the most part, so that you may get out of your depth 
 close to the bank. One or two dead trees of some size, stand- 
 ing in the water where it was now pretty deep, showed it to be 
 considerably fuller now than it must have been for many con- 
 secutive seasons a number of years ago. 
 
 For a day or two more we plodded on, following generally 
 the windings of the shores and occasionally cutting a corner 
 over a promontory, through country of the same character — 
 a succession of black (or rather dark reddish-brown) ridges 
 composed of loose lumps of rough lava rock running down 
 into the lake with difficult gullies, all full of stones, between. 
 Sometimes the donkeys got into difficulties and their loads 
 had to be carried past an awkward corner by hand, or one 
 toppled over, burden and all, into the water, all causing delay; 
 but, strange to say, not a man nor a donkey got lame, sick, or 
 sorry. The gale continued the while with unabated violence, 
 especially at night, making things very uncomfortable. It 
 seemed to come down like an avalanche from the mountain, 
 rushing into the deep basin of the lake, sometimes in terrific 
 gusts. At times it was difficult even to stand, and cooking 
 and eating were conducted under disadvantages. Nothing 
 would stop on the table, the very tea was blown out of one's 
 cup, while black sand and small stones got into the food and 
 filled one's bed at night. 
 
 At the same time the lake was beautiful, with many charm- 
 ing little bays, suggestive of convenient anchorage for a boat.
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 261 
 
 My longing for one was, however, tempered by the contempla- 
 tion of the seas this furious wind raised out in the open 
 water of the wide channel between us and a large, barren- 
 looking island, which rose high out of the expanse of waves 
 opposite. Beyond again, a steep and rugged range of for- 
 bidding-looking hills, forming the western shore of this end of 
 the lake, seemed to come sheer down into the water. 
 
 Being almost devoid of vegetation, this district has natur- 
 ally little animal life — a small troop of the ubiquitous grantii 
 here and there, and rarely a few oryx, was all I saw in the way 
 of game. It was difficult to shoot anything, as these were 
 singularly wild and the high wind made it hard to hold a rifle 
 steady, while the country was a bad one to get about in ; but 
 I managed to get a gazelle on the evening of our second day 
 on the lake, by making a careful stalk up one of the lava 
 ridges. The men continued to catch plenty of fish, though, of 
 various kinds, some very large. A goose also fell to my rook 
 rifle. 
 
 The conditions had not improved on 8th December ; the 
 going was as bad as ever, and the hurricane, which had never 
 dropped for a moment for days, still blew, giving one no rest 
 and making things thoroughly uncomfortable. What with the 
 desolate surroundings and the uncertainty as to how far this 
 sort of thing would continue, I confess I was feeling a little 
 bit low-spirited, and a curious sight we came across rather 
 tended to depress me more, though I admit the folly of 
 allowing oneself to be affected by such influences. Alongside 
 a rocky gully, right on the lake side, a patch of the black lava 
 debris was covered thickly with bleached bones. From a 
 distance it looked like snow, and I wondered what in the world 
 it could be ; but on getting close I found it to consist of the 
 whitened bones of camels. Hundreds must have perished 
 here, all huddled in one little corner. What could be the 
 history of the catastrophe ? In a country, too, where now is 
 no sign of human inhabitants and which seems uninhabitable.
 
 262 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Happily, just after this we came out into more level ground 
 and a little grass began to appear in dry tufts here and there, 
 while ahead the country looked more promising, and my cheer- 
 fulness returned. Mount Kulale could be seen to the eastward, 
 even now capped with heavy clouds though with us the weather 
 was bright and dry. 
 
 The next morning the wind gradually abated, to our infinite 
 
 Camel Bones in Desolate Country on Edge of Lake. 
 
 relief, and at last dropped altogether. I felt thankful for a 
 little peace, and, though the sun was excessively hot, I revelled 
 in the calm. We had now got into more level country, with 
 comparatively io-w stones. It seemed perfect comfort marching 
 here, after the awful ground we had lately traversed, and the 
 caravan came along famously in consequence. Another treat 
 we enjoyed was a drink of fresh water out of a little running 
 stream, evidently coming from Kulale, which we crossed where
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 263 
 
 it entered the lake. We had by this time got used to the lake 
 water, though not exactly to like it. It is perfectly wholesome, 
 and food cooked with it requires no salt. But it differs from 
 all other brack water in that it contains some property (perhaps 
 soda) which brings out the strength of tea made with it, so that 
 only half the quantity of leaves is needed, otherwise it will be 
 too black to drink ; whereas the saltish water so commonly met 
 with in Africa will not make tea. 
 
 With the flatter shores a corresponding change in the 
 character of the lake washing them followed. Shoal water in- 
 shore, with weed and water grass, and wide shallow bays were 
 now its features, as contrasted with narrow little coves of deep 
 clear water and abrupt rocky banks, such as we had been 
 accustomed to. As a consequence of the more favourable 
 conditions, there were more geese and a much greater variety 
 of fish-eating fowl and waders ; pelicans, storks, ibises, etc. 
 To-day my tent could be pitched with pegs once more, the 
 camping-place I chose being bare smooth ground close to the 
 shore of a bay, in which was an islet with some huts on it. 
 We were obliged to choose a spot with a few trees near, so 
 that we might obtain firewood, the country being for the most 
 part without a stick ; but an additional inducement to halt here 
 was the wish to make the acquaintance of the fisher folk, whose 
 huts we had seen on the islet, and some of whom were paddling 
 about opposite in canoes. After a little hesitation they drew 
 nearer, and three men and a woman got out into the water and 
 waded towards us ; but it was only after a good deal of parley- 
 ing that they could be persuaded to come ashore. I gave 
 them beads and received some fish in return, and the men 
 bought a quantity, both dry and fresh (one very large), for iron 
 wire. While the bargaining was going on at the water's edge 
 I was able to get an interesting snap at them with my hand 
 camera, and it is one of the few photographs I took that has 
 not been utterly spoiled either by light getting in or from the 
 effects of the climate on the plates.
 
 o 2 
 
 O o 5 
 ^ - I
 
 CHAP. XII LAKE RUDOLPH 265 
 
 These are the true El Molo. They are far from numerous, 
 and always live on the little islands not far from the shore 
 which occur here and there in this part of the lake. A harm- 
 less timid people, subsisting solely on fish, which they catch 
 with nets in the shallow bays, with the rare addition of a 
 hippopotamus once in a way, their lives are purely aquatic. I 
 was able to communicate with them through my interpreter, as 
 one of them knew something of the Ndorobo dialect, though their 
 own language is totally distinct ; but I could get no information 
 out of them about the country or elephants, as they said they 
 live in the water and only land to procure firewood. Even 
 then, they declared, they never go beyond the shore ; a state- 
 ment which I believe to be true. Their canoes are constructed 
 each of several small logs, fastened together side by side ; no 
 trees are to be had with trunks large enough to make the 
 usual type of dug-out canoes. After bartering to their satis- 
 faction, our friends (the first natives we had seen since leaving 
 Nyiro) became reassured and visited our camp. 
 
 A hippo was seen grazing on the bank by one of the porters 
 who had wandered along the shores on fishing intent, but it 
 had disappeared by the time he had called me ; and the few 
 gazelles I saw were very wild, as, strange to say, all game 
 seemed here. During the night, which was very hot, some 
 noisy birds (storks, I fancy) were holding a great " shauri," with 
 much loud altercation and unseemly commotion, in the water 
 close to our camp ; the uproar combined with the heat banish- 
 ing sleep. 
 
 After a few more outlying lava ridges — the farthest out- 
 i:)osts of the volcanic formation — the country assumed a more 
 uniformly level aspect, with a sandy soil, and travelling became 
 easy ; though since we had got beyond the influence of the 
 gales, which seem to be generated by Nyiro and Kulale, the 
 heat had become very great, both day and night. Our routine 
 of marching could now be evenly regulated in convenient stages. 
 Calling the donkey-men and my boys at 4 A.M, (my cook never
 
 266 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 needed rousing), I dressed and got some breakfast while the 
 animals were being packed and the tent, etc., struck and tied up. 
 It took an hour and a half to pack the asses, and by 5.30 it 
 was light enough to march ; for we could not start earlier in 
 an unknown and pathless country. By noon we were generally 
 camped at some suitable spot where a few trees or bushes 
 furnished firewood ; our trusty friend the lake supplying water 
 and securing us from all anxiety on the score of thirst — that 
 most-to-be-dreaded of all calamities in African travel. 
 
 In spite of the arid, barren nature of the country, there 
 was a charm about the lake shore, and I enjoyed travelling 
 along it, and always found something to interest me. There 
 were the birds, in astonishing numbers and great variety, — 
 pelicans sitting sleepily on the water and shoals, secure from 
 crocodiles (for I watched one swim through a flock), or flying 
 in skeins to and fro ; flocks of gulls and terns ; storks, herons 
 of various kinds, ibises, egrets and many other small waders, 
 with countless cormorants in two sizes ; besides numerous 
 Egyptian geese, where damp lawns bordering the shore afford 
 them grazing, but duck and teal singularly scarce. Game, too, 
 was a little more plentiful, and I began to notice zebra spoor 
 and occasionally an old rhino " scrape " again. We passed 
 more islets with little settlements of El Molo in the many 
 bays formed by this part of Bassu, until we rounded the bight 
 of the lake where the shore suddenly trends for a spell, towards 
 the west. Here the coast is exposed to the swell raised by 
 the prevailing southerly and south-easterly winds, and the con- 
 ditions are less favourable to both natives and birds. As we 
 travelled along this part I noticed old beaches of various 
 heights. Sometimes we would march along one far above the 
 present level of the water, like a well-kept, wide, gravel carriage 
 drive, at another part one ran along like a barrier reef, separated 
 from the present shore by a lagoon. On these beaches the 
 surf sometimes roared like the sea. After cutting across the 
 promontory terminating this reach, whose extreme cape is
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 267 
 
 tipped with a picturesque rocky headland, more sheltered baj-s 
 are reached, where the shore again takes a northerly trend. 
 
 Toward noon on the 12th, I went ahead as usual to look 
 for suitable camping-ground, and had just shot a granti when 
 I discovered a good-sized collection of huts on a sand-spit. I 
 did not know what the inhabitants, who seemed numerous, 
 might be, so took the precaution of disposing my camp in a 
 defensible position. Then I went on with Squareface to make 
 our presence known. On seeing us, a woman, who was the 
 first to notice our approach (for they had not heard my shot), 
 ran in to give the alarm, and there was considerable commotion 
 in the village, the men rushing out spear in hand. At first 
 we shouted to them from a distance (that is, my man did in 
 Ndorobo), and when our mutual distrust was allayed, we met 
 some of the leaders and interchanged greetings and explana- 
 tions. It appeared that they were a community of Ndorobos, 
 akin, they told us, to some living at Kulale and Nyiro, but had 
 taken to the same mode of life as the El Molo, depending 
 chiefly on fish, though they also hunt. But the two races are 
 quite distinct, though living amicably side by side. The El 
 Molo, who are the aboriginal fisher-folk, are much blacker, and 
 their language is quite different ; that of the Ndorobos, as else- 
 where, being similar to Masai. The latter seem to capture 
 the fish by spearing them from canoes in the shallow water of 
 the bays. None of the fishing natives know the use of hook 
 and line ; and, strange to say, my men could no longer catch 
 any. Whether owing to the shallowness of the water or what 
 I don't know, but certain it is, that though the water was stiff 
 with them, the fish, except an occasional " barber," would not 
 take a bait any more. 
 
 I could not wonder at the preference of these people for the 
 lake with its inexhaustible wealth of food, so much more easily 
 obtained than the precarious living of those who hunt land 
 animals. Simply marvellous is its fertility in fish. What 
 immense quantities must be consumed daily by the armies of
 
 268 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 birds preying upon it, not to take into account the crocodiles 
 (also very numerous) and the colonies of fishermen ! But, in 
 spite of all, so prolific is it that the water fairly teems with fish. 
 These natives are less timid than the El Molo, and as soon as 
 we had made friends quite a crowd followed me to camp. 
 Their headman presented me with a fish or two, and I gave 
 him a few strings of beads and the skin of the buck I had shot 
 (a thing they prize, and cannot easily obtain themselves), and 
 then a brisk trade went on with the porters, who bartered 
 whatever trifling ornaments they had for the heaps of dried 
 fish brought by the natives for sale. I noticed that all these 
 fish-eating people looked sleek and plump ; thus rather seeming 
 to controvert the opinion I have read that an exclusively fish 
 diet causes skin diseases. Famine must be unknown among 
 them. 
 
 During the morning's march we had passed a not very old 
 camping-ground, with quantities of camel and cattle dung in 
 the " boma " (enclosure of cut branches). At first I was 
 puzzled, wondering whether it could have been a party of 
 Bworanas or Randilis ; but further investigations soon revealed 
 tell-tale evidences of Europeans, in empty cartridge-cases, torn 
 paper coverings, and such like. I then concluded (from the 
 proof of the presence of camels) that it was a caravan from the 
 Somali coast, and what I gathered from these natives confirmed 
 me in that conclusion. They said, however, that there was 
 only one white man, and told me that he had come up some 
 other way, through the Bworanas, and had been to Murli, at the 
 north end of Bassu, passing here on his way back, and had been 
 guided by them to Kulale instead of following the lake to the 
 south end, whence we had come. They also informed me that 
 he had fought with some tribes and captured much cattle, 
 goats, etc., some of which he had given them. This was, of 
 course, Dr. Donaldson Smith's caravan, though at the time I 
 did not know who it could be, and thought perhaps it might 
 be Mr. Chanler again. I wished I had been a little quicker
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 269 
 
 coming up, so that I might have had the pleasure of meeting 
 a European in this far and lonely desert. 
 
 In reply to my inquiries about elephants, I was told that 
 I should meet with some farther on, when approaching the 
 northern extremity of Bassu, where Reshiat was situated, which 
 they declared they had visited. Thus I seemed to be getting 
 at length within reach of the rather mysterious country which 
 was our present goal, and I had every reason to feel thankful 
 that all was so propitious ; for we seemed to have overcome 
 the greatest difficulties of the journey. The going was now 
 first-rate, the ground level, with hardly any stones. The hills 
 had fallen back, and were now a considerable distance off to 
 the eastward, a wide plain bordering the lake. Here and there 
 were belts of mimosa bush, generally about dry watercourses ; 
 and in front, beyond a large bay, was a hilly headland which 
 I took to be the one which Teleki and Von Hohnel cut across, 
 as shown by their map. This map was very, useful, and 
 enabled me, though without instruments, to tell approximately 
 what part of the lake I had reached. 
 
 Arid and barren though the country still was, there was a little 
 more vegetation than farther south, in the shape of sparse and 
 withered grass and a few stunted thorn bushes scattered here 
 and there, rendering it more suitable to game ; and as a con- 
 sequence I noticed a good deal of zebra spoor of both the large 
 and small species, also a few fresh rhino tracks as well as a new 
 " scrape " or two, while gazelles seemed more numerous than 
 hitherto. During the day's march I had bagged several geese 
 with my rook rifle, so that my own larder was well supplied ; 
 but my men had not had much meat lately, so I determined to 
 make an effort to obtain a good supply that afternoon. 
 
 My experience is, as the result of many years of observation 
 in Africa, that meat is a most important addition to the food 
 of porters on the march. Its value in keeping them strong, 
 healthy, and contented is inestimable ; and I think a conclusive 
 proof of this is that I hardly ever had a case of even trivial
 
 270 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 sickness during the whole of this journey, and never any that a 
 pill or two or a few opium tabloids would not cure. My men 
 carried far heavier loads than is customary (or even lawful, 
 according to present regulations !) in Europeans' caravans ; yet 
 not only did they never complain, but with, as far as I can 
 remember, the single exception of a case of gripes or stomach 
 cramp, lasting half an hour or so, and one of lameness at 
 the very end of the return journey, not a porter was ever 
 unable or unwilling to shoulder his load in the morning and 
 bring it in smiling to the camping-ground for the day. I think 
 I may say that this evidence contrasts favourably with the 
 descriptions of the " sick-roll," etc., so often met with in accounts 
 of African travel. At the same time, meat alone will not do ; 
 and, for men accustomed to a farinaceous diet, is less desirable 
 even than grain alone. 
 
 To return to my progress on this 13 th December '95. I 
 found a pleasant spot in which to camp, beside a little creek, just 
 about the right time, with a thorn-tree to pitch my tent under ; 
 and after seeing everything in order and having some tea and 
 a snack, I went off with one attendant to hunt. I took up the 
 gradually rising ground towards the east, the wind being favour- 
 able — that is, in my face — and before going very far sighted four 
 or five Grevy's zebras feeding on an open ridge. It was not an 
 easy place to approach them in, but I was determined to do my 
 utmost to get a shot. I succeeded better than I had hoped 
 for even. Taking advantage of some little hollows, which I 
 managed to reach unobserved by making a circuit, I crawled 
 alone to near the brow of the low ridge on which they were, 
 unconscious of danger, without showing myself. Then, waiting 
 prone till they were turned away from me, I got into a sitting 
 position on ground commanding a clear view of them ; shot 
 one as soon as it turned sufficiently to afford an aim at a vital 
 spot, and, 'before the others knew what was the matter, had 
 given a second a bullet, each, after a short spasmodic rush, 
 falling dead. They were two large mares, in fine condition.
 
 XII LAKE RUDOLPH 271 
 
 Swahilis are very fond of zebra meat, especially when fat 
 (and they do get very fat), so there was great rejoicing in camp 
 at the news of my success, and more so still when I announced 
 that in consequence of this windfall we would rest a day here. 
 This would enable the men to partially dry a quantity of meat, 
 so that they could carry much more, as in the dry air the 
 strips soon part with a large proportion of their moisture and 
 become very much lighter. As it was not very far from camp, 
 and in the perfectly open country the place would be easy to 
 find, I had left Juma (who had been with me) to begin skinning 
 while I brought word myself ; and on my calling for volunteers 
 nearly every one set off eagerly in the direction I pointed out. 
 The meat was all brought in by sundown and soon distributed 
 among the various " messes." (For it is always better to have 
 this done by the headman, in camp, to avoid quarrelling and 
 unfair division.) 
 
 In the morning a strange Swahili turned up at our camp. 
 This was a surprise, as Swahili caravans hardly ever visit this 
 region (the few that have reached Reshiat went round to the 
 west of the lake, and only very large parties venture so far). 
 Our visitor explained that he belonged to a small party of 
 Swahili traders who were on their way back from the north end 
 of the lake, and were then encamped a short distance away. 
 They had heard my shots in the afternoon, and he had 
 come on to see who it was. Later the whole caravan arrived, 
 and camjjed near us. There were only some thirty of them, 
 and it ai)peared that they had followed us from the coast with 
 the intention of asking my permission to travel in company with 
 my caravan ; but while we were at El Bogoi they had passed up 
 by another route and come on, supposing us to be in front of 
 them, until they met Dr. Donaldson Smith's party, and had 
 then followed his track back to Kere and Magu, up the river 
 which runs into the lake from the north. They were now on 
 their way to the coast. They said their trading had not been 
 a success, but gave us a lot of useful information about the
 
 272 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 country ahead, and told me there were plenty of elephants 
 about the north end of the lake, though they had seen no signs 
 of any along the shores in this direction. 
 
 The man who had first come to meet us now said that he 
 would like to turn back with me, as he had some trade goods 
 left which he wanted to try to barter for ivory, though he had 
 been obliged to come away, as the other members of the 
 caravan would not wait. He said that if I would allow him 
 and two or three of his assistants to join my caravan, and 
 would supply them with food, of which, as well as the where- 
 withal to buy more, they were short, he would guide me 
 and assist me in every way in his power. To this I gladly 
 agreed, thinking it a most happy stroke of good fortune to 
 obtain such valuable help from a Swahili who knew the way 
 and all about the natives in the country where we were going, 
 Xor had I ever reason to regret my decision ; for Mnyamiri 
 (such was his name) was of the greatest use to me both as 
 guide and interpreter, being a proficient linguist in many 
 African languages and thoroughly at home in Masai and its 
 kindred dialects, which were the only means of communication 
 we had with the tribes among whom we were going. 
 
 It seemed an especially fortunate coincidence that I should 
 have met with this man here, anxious to accompany me, just 
 where we needed a guide, having reached a point whence we 
 ought to strike across country, leaving the lake for a time, and 
 make a short cut to Alia Bay. I took the opportunity of 
 writing some letters to send to the coast by the returning 
 caravan. I expected they would take months on the road, but 
 knew they would get there some day and that the news of me 
 would be welcome to my friends. I found out, in the course 
 of conversation, that these traders had, on their up journey, 
 taken the route to the eastward of Mount Nyiro, where they 
 had suffered much from thirst, some of their donkeys perishing 
 from want of water. On hearing that we had experienced no 
 sufferings from that cause, they concluded that ours must be
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 273 
 
 the better route, in spite of tlie rough hills and stony going. 
 So altogether I seemed to have been most happy in my choice. 
 Saying good-bye to our trader visitors bound for Mombasa, 
 we resumed our march next morning, our newly-acquired guide 
 trudging importantly ahead. We cut across a cape, but came 
 down to another bay beyond, the last point of Bassu we should 
 touch before striking inland for a spell. For here a range of 
 rough stony hills juts out into the lake, so that not only is it 
 a great saving in distance to leave it to the left, but if the 
 shore were followed at this part progress would be most 
 difficult. Game-tracks were becoming more numerous as we 
 proceeded, the grass making a better pretence of covering the 
 now sandy soil, and that night I heard lions roaring, a sure 
 indication that game is not scarce. I also noticed a good many 
 rhino spoors. I was most anxious to meet with rhinos here, as 
 Von Hohnel (whom I had the pleasure of meeting in Mombasa, 
 and who had most kindly given me much valuable information 
 about the country) had told me that those found on the 
 eastern side of Lake Rudolph were possibly a distinct species. 
 
 From this point we traversed a wide flat valle}- between 
 two parallel ranges of hills, the one bordering the lake, the 
 other inland ; the valley — cut up by denudation of the friable 
 soil into many little ridges and gullies — -made rather tiresome 
 going. Water was scarce, the sun burning hot, and the 
 marches long and trying, and I sighed for our dear old lake ; — a 
 good friend had it been to us. Never had we had any worr)' 
 about water or the distance to camp since we had struck it. 
 Now, no sooner did we leave its shores than our trouble 
 began : anxiety as to whether there would be enough for all, 
 the tedious process of watering the donkeys out of buckets, 
 scooping up the reluctant fluid by cupfuls out of holes in the 
 gravel (myself standing in the stifling heat of the river-bed, 
 exposed to a burning sun, to see that each one got its turn), 
 stinted allowance for washing, and all the inconveniences of a 
 short supply. 
 
 T
 
 274 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chai-. 
 
 It was not till the third morning after leaving its shores, 
 that, with delight, we found ourselves once more beside the 
 ample bosom of our dear old friend. We were now on the 
 large bay of Alia or Lalia. The water here is very shallow for 
 a long distance out, and there is much water-grass growing in 
 it. We camped early, under some bushy thorn-trees giving 
 real shade, a by no means common feature of the trees in this 
 country, but particularly grateful in the torrid heat. The 
 opportunity of resting in comfort was especially welcome, as I 
 had got a touch of fever from the trying ordeal of seeing the 
 donkeys watered the day before. Opposite was another fishing 
 village on a small island, the natives from which soon brought 
 quantities of fish for sale. I sent word that I should like some 
 freshly caught, and some of them went out and speared a lot in 
 quite a short time. There were some Reshiat people, too, here, 
 who had come for the sake of the fish on account of famine in 
 their own country. All are excessively black. 
 
 I saw a good deal of game ; and, in addition to the usual 
 oryx and grantii, now, for the first time, " topi." I shot one of 
 the latter in the afternoon, but had to fetch Pice to assist in its 
 capture, and it gave us a good chase before it was done, not- 
 withstanding that I had hit it right in the shoulder, though an 
 inch or two low if anything. It seemed wonderful how it could 
 live and run after such a shot. This was the first antelope of 
 the kind I had ever shot, though I had seen some years before 
 in Sotike (a district in the direction of the Victoria Nyanza, but 
 south of the ordinary route to that lake). They remind one 
 strongly of the bastard hartebeeste (Damaliscus hmatus) of the 
 south. I am not sure whether this variety is identical with the 
 " topi " of the east coast, or whether, as I think very likely, it is 
 an intermediate form between that and the " korrigum " of the 
 west, in the same way that the oryx agrees entirely with 
 neither beisa nor callotis.^ It was here, too, that I noticed 
 
 ^ Probably the ' ' topi," ' ' korrigum, " and ' ' tiang " are all three mere local varieties of 
 one species.
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 275 
 
 flocks of white spoonbills for the first time. I also saw some 
 of the birds which in South Africa go by the name of the small 
 locust bird. 
 
 Our progress was now smooth and pleasant in spite of the 
 great heat, over great flats with a sandy soil, varied sometimes 
 by low ridges of rotten ground with stones, where the pace was 
 slower, the hills far away on our right and the lake more shoal 
 than ever, with water-grass a mile or two out to sea. More 
 fishing kraals on islands were passed, whose inhabitants were 
 always ready to sell fish, both fresh and dried. I saw, too, a 
 feu^ duck at this part, and, all along, the various water-birds of 
 the kinds already mentioned, with others not enumerated, were 
 in astonishing numbers. Hippos are not common, and the few 
 seen mostly far out from the shore, but land game plentiful, 
 especially " topi " (which did not seem very wild), sometimes 
 in large herds, as well as the usual kinds, including con- 
 siderable numbers of the smaller zebra, Grevy's being also 
 present. 
 
 Three or four Ndorobos from the large settlement we had 
 passed several days before had been following us with the 
 object of selling some ivory they knew of, which was concealed 
 on the lake shore at this part. It proved to be two very large 
 bull tusks, but they had evidently lain here for many years, and 
 were nearly rotten. However, Mnyamiri was very pleased to 
 acquire it, as he was able to buy it for a small quantity of 
 goods. It seemed folly to me to carry such comparatively 
 worthless stuff such an immense distance to the coast ; but 
 Swahili traders refuse nothing in the shape of ivory, however 
 much damaged, and even buy rhinoceros horns, undeterred by 
 long and difficult land carriage. 
 
 I had hoped to begin to meet with elephants in this part, 
 as Count Teleki and Captain Von Hohnel had told me that 
 they had found numerous herds along this coast, all the way 
 from Alia northward. But there can be no doubt that, at the 
 period of their visit, a succession of seasons of exceptional
 
 276 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 drought must have caused all the water in the surrounding 
 country, far back in every direction, to dry up, thus forcing all 
 the elephants to resort to the lake shores. This is also shown 
 by the obvious proofs 1 have noticed of the lake having filled 
 up very much of recent years. I could see no signs whatever 
 of elephants having frequented the neighbourhood for a long 
 time back, the only evidence of their ever having done so being, 
 besides the ancient tusks above mentioned, an old skull and a 
 few very much decayed bones. 
 
 Though I had kept a careful look-out for rhinoceros all 
 along the coast, and occasionally noticed their tracks, it was 
 not till 2 I St December that I met with the animal itself. On 
 that morning, a couple of hours after starting, I saw one ahead. 
 As already explained, I was particularly anxious to get one 
 here to examine, and obtain a specimen of the supposed small 
 variet}' said to be peculiar to this region. At the same time 
 an abundant supply of meat for my men would be most 
 acceptable ; so I halted the caravan, took my Lee-Metford 
 magazine rifle, and went after it. The wind was not un- 
 favourable, blowing from our right, while the rhino was 
 advancing slowly towards us but diagonally across our line 
 of march. The ground was perfectly open, not a stick or 
 tuft a foot high anywhere ; and as I went forward towards the 
 left, in the endeavour to cut it off, it seemed to see me. But when 
 it looked in my direction I kept still, and it appeared reassured 
 and fed as it went, for on raising its head again from the 
 ground I could see it was chewing. Pice was at my heels ; 
 and on m}' giving him a caution in a hoarse stage whisper, the 
 rhino looked up towards us. But it came on again, and I got 
 right in front of it. Its attendant birds alarmed it a little by 
 flying off, but it still came unconcernedly on. I had sat down 
 — my favourite position for a steady shot,- — and when our 
 friend got within thirty yards and still continued to advance 
 straight for me, with nothing but a little rough grass between 
 us, I thought it time to try to make him halt, my attitude not
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 277 
 
 being an altogether dignified one in which to receive, at close 
 quarters, so august a visitor ; so I gave a slight whistle between 
 my teeth. He stood still, and held his head well up with his 
 ears cocked, looking hard towards me and exposing his breast. 
 I at once, being in readiness, gave him a bullet in the throat, 
 just above the chest (the chest itself is too low to aim for a 
 front shot), and, as he swung round and started off, another in 
 the ribs. He galloped about fifty yards, just managed to get 
 through a little gully, though his action was getting laboured, 
 and on to the stony farther bank, where he stood for a second, 
 half turned round, and toppled over on to his side ; then kicked 
 his legs into the air a couple of times, and, after a squeal, lay 
 still. Pice was soon smelling at his nose, and, on my getting 
 up to him, though his little eye still blinked, he breathed no 
 more. Even half a minute or so later, on putting my finger to 
 it the eyelid winked again ; but it was only the muscles 
 working automatically, for he was dead. Cutting him up 
 delayed us an hour and a half; but it was well worth it. 
 He was fat, and the men loaded themselves in great glee 
 with the meat (much beloved of Swahili) on top of their 
 burdens — one would have thought to the breaking point, 
 and so they would have said, had it not been to fill, first 
 their pots, and then their own stomachs. 
 
 Before allowing him to be touched I had examined him 
 critically, and carefully measured him with my tape-line, and, 
 though I could detect no structural difference whatever, he 
 certainly was, although evidently a fully mature bull, so much 
 smaller than the average " faro " of farther south that on 
 comparing his measurements with those of my large El Gereh 
 specimen he seemed cjuite a pygmy.^ I hid his whole head 
 under a heap of stones. The horns were not long. P'ortu- 
 nately it was rather cloudy with a nice breeze, so that we did 
 not feel the heat as usual, and in spite of this delay and 
 
 ' These measurements, together with others, will be found in the table gi\en on 
 page 425.
 
 278 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap, xii 
 
 another halt to let the men drink, we were able, by keeping at 
 it later, to do about our accustomed distance. 
 
 While waiting for the men to drink, I was interested in 
 watching, through my glasses, a party of spoonbills feeding in 
 the shallows. They reminded me forcibly of mowers moving 
 slowly in a row, some fifteen or twenty abreast, in open order 
 with measured steps, their heads down and the points of their 
 long bills under water swinging regularly with a sweeping 
 action from right to left. This was evidently their method of 
 feeling for food on the mudd}^ bottom. Some white herons 
 and egrets of various sizes accompanied the spoonbills. There 
 was also a clump of stately pelicans on a low island near, and 
 beyond a large flock of gulls resting on a mud-bank, besides 
 the usual assortment of storks, herons, etc., etc. I wished I 
 could get near enough to photograph the scene, but all my 
 attempts to take snap-shots at the lake birds have resulted in 
 failure. 
 
 We found a nice spot for our camp again to-day, with 
 shady thorn-trees, near two more fishermen's villages on low 
 islands. There was also a high island opposite, far out, not 
 marked on the map I had with me. The lake here is ugly 
 but still interesting — as how could it fail to be with its 
 abounding bird life ? Game too was plentiful, and a hare 
 would now and then get up under one's feet and scuttle away 
 (an animal which, though I have not mentioned it before, is 
 occasionally met with all along the lake). There are also 
 great numbers of small black crows all along here. They may 
 be seen among the huts on the little islands occupied by the 
 El Molo, picking up the fish refuse ; in this way no doubt 
 useful to the islanders, who do not molest them. Hence they 
 become very tame and sometimes a nuisance ; there were 
 flocks always about our camp, and they would venture right in 
 among us and were constantly trying to steal the strips of 
 meat spread about to dry. 
 
 Once more we had, on the 22nd, a series of stony volcanic
 
 28o ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 ridges (though of no height), coming right down into the water, 
 to get over, reminding us of the south end of the lake. This 
 kind of margin is much more picturesque than the low swampy 
 parts, the water being clear and deepening rapidly. Both 
 south and north of the lava ridges are sandy flats. We got 
 through the difficult ground in one good day's march. There 
 was a fairly distinct path running along the sides of these 
 rocky hills parallel with the shore ; indeed it is generally the 
 case wherever the ground is covered thickly with stones, if 
 there is game in the countr}-, that paths are formed by any 
 animals passing through, owing to their naturally following the 
 line of least resistance, and so a beaten track is made and kept 
 open by constant use. Where the ground is unobstructed and 
 presents no obstacle to progress in any direction, paths are not 
 so likely to be formed. 
 
 We found another dry river-bed with trees to camp in. On 
 this day I saw a small school of hippos, the first I had seen 
 together on the lake, though I had occasionally seen scattered 
 individuals. In the night I heard a leopard grunting, and the 
 geese were so noisy as to disturb one's sleep. From here 
 there began to be a good deal more bush, though still scattered, 
 .mainly "suaki " near the lake and farther back low-spreading 
 thorn bushes. The " suaki " is a bushy, evergreen shrub or 
 low tree with small, round, light green leaves. It is the sticks 
 of this bush that are used by Swahilis as tooth-brushes. I 
 presume the name Suakin (which merely means " at the suaki " 
 in Swahili) is derived from this tree. 
 
 There was great abundance of game at this part. I had 
 not seen it so plentiful for many a long day. There were 
 zebra of both kinds, oryx, topi antelope. Grant's gazelle in 
 plenty, and a good many Waller's gazelle ; I also saw a troop of 
 waterbuck — the first I had met with on the lake — but my glasses 
 being behind, I could not be sure of what species. There were 
 numbers of rose-coloured bee-eaters here, and I saw one large 
 green one which seemed unfamiliar to me. It was here too that
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 281 
 
 I first observed a rather curious thing which afterwards became a 
 common sight. It is the habit of this rosy bee-eater (^M crops 
 mibiais) to ride on the back of the large crested pauw {Eupodotis 
 kori), which is common about the north-east extremity of 
 Bassu. It sits far back, on the rump of its mount, as a boy 
 rides a donkey. The pauw does not seem to resent this liberty, 
 
 Pauw {Eupodotis kori) AND Bee-EATER {Merops mibicus). 
 
 but stalks majestically along, while its brilliantly clad little 
 jockey keeps a look-out, sitting sideways, and now and again 
 flies up after an insect it has espied, returning again after the 
 chase to " its camel " — as Juma not inaptly called it. I have 
 even seen two bee-eaters riding on one pauw. 1 have also 
 noticed this pretty little bird sitting on the backs of goats, 
 sheep and antelopes, but the pauw seems its favourite steed.
 
 282 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 I imagine it gets more flights in this way at game put up by- 
 its bearer, which also affords it a point of vantage whence to 
 sight and pursue its prey in a country where suitable sticks to 
 perch on are few. 
 
 During this day's march I came upon the carcase of a 
 Grevy's zebra foal which had been freshly killed by a leopard, 
 but the latter had slunk away, no doubt warned by the men's 
 voices. Later I happened upon a walleri fawn only just born 
 and not yet dry, and moved it out of the path of the caravan 
 lest any of the men should hurt it. In one place I noticed no 
 less than five old bleached rhino skulls within a short distance 
 of each other, though there seemed but little fresh spoor about, 
 and I wondered what could have killed them, as there are now 
 no hunting natives anywhere near. Possibly they may have 
 been shot by Count Teleki when he passed this way some eight 
 years previously. Jackals are common all along here, and — 
 as might be expected where game is plentiful — hyenas and 
 vultures are numerous ; for though I met with no lions, they 
 are sure to be there to provide pickings for these scavengers. 
 
 Another frequent and disagreeable accompaniment of 
 abundant game was a fly, two specimens of which I caught, 
 that I have always taken for the female of the " tetse," though 
 in this I may be in error. It is larger than the typical one 
 and of a uniform brownish colour with no markings, but in 
 other respects exactly similar both as to appearance and habits, 
 and I have always before noticed it associated with the smaller 
 striped variety, though I saw none of the latter kind here. 
 Whether this kind is poisonous or not I am not sure. My 
 donkeys never suffered from having passed here ; but then they 
 can stand a feio " fly," though where the " tetse " is numerous 
 they soon succumb. It was here that I was at last cheered, 
 for the first time since reaching the lake, with signs of elephants 
 having been about not long since, leading me to hope that our 
 perseverance would soon be rewarded. 
 
 I have had occasion to mention before that the liver of the
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 rhinoceros is esteemed a delicacy by Swahilis. For my own 
 part I never thought much of it, and the only part of this 
 animal I usually ate was the tongue, though rhino tail is very 
 good stewed (it takes about twelve hours' boiling to render 
 either tender) ; but my cook on this occasion concocted a dish 
 which converted me and which I can recommend as an entree. 
 He made me some rissoles of pounded liver and tongue (both 
 previously boiled), flavoured with the herb of my own discovery 
 to which I have previously alluded. These, nicely fried, are 
 first-rate. Feruzi called these triumphs of his skill " cartrets," 
 and I eventually came to the conclusion that he was trying to 
 say cutlets (though of course that was the wrong term for them), 
 but I would suggest that the dish may be called " pate de faro " 
 on the menu. 
 
 On 24th December I bagged another rhino. We had just 
 had our usual short rest in the middle of the march, and I had 
 already shouted the order to " bandika," when, as the men were 
 beginning to take up their loads, I heard " Fau, fau ! " (an 
 abbreviation of " faro," the Swahili for rhinoceros), and looking 
 up saw a small and very thin rhino with long horns sauntering 
 very slowly across to windward of us. It had evidently not 
 heard us, though quite near, thanks to a stiff breeze that was 
 blowing. Telling the men to sit down again and keep quiet, 
 I took my .303 and went towards it, followed by Pice. I saw 
 it was hardly worth shooting for meat ; but as it had a fine 
 pair of horns and looked very small I was anxious to get its 
 head as a specimen of the Bassu variety. With a high and 
 favourable wind and stunted bushes between, I easily got close. 
 Then it, I suppose, heard mc, for it turned, and I at once gave 
 it a shot. On receiving the bullet it waltzed round and round 
 once or twice, and as it was moving away I put in a second by 
 way of making doubly sure. It then got behind some scrub, 
 and I set Pice on. His bark and its snorts showed me it was 
 close by, and I got up just in time to see it totter and fall into 
 a lying-down position, from which it never moved, I then
 
 284 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 photographed it and measured it carefully. It was a cow, 
 considerably smaller than the bull of the other day and the 
 thinnest I had ever shot, though its horns did not seem as if it 
 were extraordinarily old. Its front horn only measured 26^ 
 inches, though, owing no doubt to the very small size of the 
 animal itself, it looked much longer. The porters took meat 
 in spite of its emaciation, while I cut off the horns and buried 
 the skull, having avoided chopping the bone at all. 
 
 Dead Rhinoceros Cow of the Small Variety {Rhinoceros biconiis). 
 
 (From a Photograph liy the Author.) 
 
 There was here much stunted bush, though not thick ; the 
 country was very flat and the soil like dried mud, which it 
 undoubtedly is, namely, lacustrine deposit ; and all along this 
 part were many tall chimney-like ant-heaps. The usual kinds of 
 game were observed, with more Waller's gazelle than I had seen 
 anywhere. For a day or two past I had noticed that the lake 
 water was getting fresher and at the same time less clear, and 
 now it had lost its salt taste altogether and become muddy, 
 looking quite red out to sea. This was of course caused by
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 285 
 
 the large river running in from the north, now only a short 
 way ahead, for Mn)^amiri assured me we should reach the first 
 kraals of Reshiat early the day but one after. Fringing the 
 lake margin were beds of tall, dark-green rushes, contrasting 
 picturesquely with the numerous white herons and egrets. 
 
 I went out in the afternoon to try to shoot a granti for 
 my own larder ; but the sun and wind were together — that is 
 to say, the sun getting low and the wind also in the west, a 
 most unfavourable combination — and I could not get near 
 them, though numerous. The most favourable conditions for 
 approaching game are a low sun on your back and the wind 
 in your face. Then the hunter is in shadow, the game con- 
 spicuous, and the wind from the latter to the former ; reverse 
 these conditions and the chances are all against him. 
 
 The next day I had the opportunity of examining through 
 my glasses some waterbuck (the second lot I had seen), and 
 made out that they were not the ringed sort, but a variety 
 (probably " defassus ") with white patches on the stern in place 
 of the elliptical mark characteristic of the common east-coast 
 waterbuck. This is the only part of the lake where any are 
 seen. Here the shore w^as fringed with " suaki " jungle, with 
 bushes in the water too, which was now very muddy but 
 quite sweet. We camped close by a very big old elephant 
 skull — perhaps a victim of Count Teleki's. 
 
 Bethinking me that this was Christmas Day, I got out my 
 rook rifle and shot a goose, deeming that as suitable a dish for 
 the occasion as I could command ; for I had no fresh meat, 
 and it seemed a shame to have dry biltong for m\' dinner. 
 Luckily it proved a fat one, and, though so freshly killed, was a 
 success on the table. I had no delicacy to bring out as a treat 
 in honour of the festival ; no " medical comforts " whatever, my 
 one grub box containing nothing but tea, salt, soap, matches, a 
 little coffee, and a {q\n candles (the latter kept as a stand-by 
 in case of sickness), besides some cartridges to make up the 
 weight. Nevertheless I enjoyed my dinner, though the
 
 286 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 accompaniments of the " roast goose " (really boiled first and 
 then fried a bit in a pot) were only millet porridge instead of 
 vegetables, a small millet-meal cake for bread, and porridge 
 again with honey by way of pudding ; while, for drink, coffee 
 sweetened with honey had to satisfy me : and I thought it all 
 first-rate. 
 
 I had been feeling a shade low-spirited, the effect, perhaps, 
 of the contrast the day suggested between my loneliness and 
 the convivial associations usually considered appropriate to 
 the season. But Abdulla cheered me up by his hopefulness. 
 A good man, Abdulla, who always took a hopeful view of 
 things. I often used to have a chat with him in the evening 
 by the camp fire over my after-dinner pipe, and he invari- 
 ably maintained that our prospects were bright. " Inshallah, 
 Bwana, tu ta pata ndovu tele ! " (Please God, master, we 
 shall get plenty of elephants). He always identified himself 
 thoroughly with the undertaking, and took the greatest interest 
 in the serious business of the expedition. He often amused 
 me vastly by his contemptuous way of speaking of those who 
 went merely to " tembea " (that is, to take a stroll for amuse- 
 ment) in the " bara " — namely, scientific travellers, etc. 
 
 Our march the next morning was really only about two 
 hours' actual going; but, though starting as usual, we did not get 
 to the kraals of Reshiat till 9.30, owing to delay over a Grevy's 
 zebra I shot on the way. It was a single old stallion. I was 
 very anxious to get some meat to make the men happy at the 
 end of the long desert journey, and had been rather regretting not 
 having halted a day among the game for the purpose of shoot- 
 ing them some, for we seemed to have got out of it now. So, 
 seeing this fellow standing some way off watching the caravan, 
 and knowing we had only a short march before us to-day, so 
 that the waste of time would not matter, I determined to try 
 hard to get a shot at him, and happily succeeded. There were 
 clumps of " suaki " about, favouring my chance, so that I was 
 able, by taking advantage of their cover, to get within shot while
 
 LAKE RUDOLPH 287 
 
 his attention was taken up watching the distant caravan, which 
 I had allowed to go on. When I fired he galloped off, and I 
 lost sight of him behind bushes ; but I had heard the bullet 
 strike and seen, by his tail-on-end race away, that he was hard 
 hit, so followed, though I could see no blood on his spoor. 
 On rounding a clump of " suaki," behind which he had dis- 
 appeared, to my joy I saw him lying dead close by. I piped 
 my signal on my empty cartridge-case (which I always carry 
 in my pocket as the most convenient call) with a thankful 
 heart, and felt as pleased as the men seemed when they came up. 
 I had him cut up and divided on the spot and then went on. 
 
 We soon reached the first kraals, and camped close by under 
 shady thorn-trees. The natives were friendly, but not trouble- 
 some — as Africans too often become when their friendliness is 
 too demonstrative. They had a good many goats and a decent 
 little troop of cattle, besides a number of donkeys. I had an 
 extra ration of meal served out to the caravan as a treat, to 
 celebrate our safe arrival in Reshiat. The leading porters 
 thanked me for having brought them all safely through — their 
 manner of offering congratulations. Nice of them, this, I 
 thought. Every one seemed in good spirits, and I myself had 
 quite recovered my cheerfulness.
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 A SOJOURN AT RESHIAT AND KtRK 
 
 Among artless savages — Scene of a massacre — Egrets and their hosts — Myriads of 
 mosquitoes — A satisfactory morning's work — Good out of evil — A new antelope 
 — A revolting disfigurement — The metropolis of Kere — Exchanging greetings — 
 \Yaifs from a European expedition — New Year's Day — A melancholy event — 
 Pacifying a chief — A consequence of lavish expenditure — Exorcising a marauder 
 — A model in ebony — Getting rid of a nuisance. 
 
 Having reached once more a countr}^ with settled inhabitants, 
 the first thing to be done was to make their acquaintance. I 
 had an interview with the head of the kraal, which was 
 satisfactory so far as it went. He brought one of his wives, 
 who knew the Masai language, as his interpreter, while I 
 employed Mnyamiri, who spoke it fluent!}-. I found these 
 satisfactory people to deal with : it is a treat — and a rare 
 one nowadays even in Africa — to meet with simple, unspoiled 
 savages. They cultivate nothing but " mtama " (millet), and 
 even that only to a very limited extent, just along the damp 
 margin of the lake. The crops there were in ear and looking 
 splendid. It appears that the uncertain rainfall deters these 
 not at all energetic cultivators from extending their operations, 
 though the soil is alluvial and probably fertile all over these flats. 
 It often struck me, while sojourning in Reshiat, that the lake 
 water might be used for purposes of irrigation b}- means of 
 windmills, for there is generally a good strong breeze blowing 
 from a south-easterly direction. Hills were now visible to the 
 northward over the intervening flat country and beyond the
 
 CH. XIII A SOJOURN AT RESHIAT AND KERB 289 
 
 end of the lake, and across its northern extremity the low 
 shore could be made out. Throughout the whole length of 
 Bassu, with the exception of one part — the only one where 
 there is a water-horizon to the westward — hills are visible 
 across the lake, the land on its western banks being for the 
 most part high, though of course the actual shore is nowhere 
 visible, until it narrows at the north end where hills no longer 
 border it. 
 
 Until the last day or two I had never, during the whole 
 journey along the lake, heard a mosquito ; since then a few had 
 been in evidence, but here they swarmed. No doubt the water, 
 impregnated with soda (or whatever the right name for its 
 saline property may be), did ' not agree with them, but here, 
 in the swampy border of the lake, where it is fresh, they find 
 a congenial habitat. 
 
 I had heard a good deal about Reshiat, when making 
 inquiries about this country before leaving the coast, from 
 the few Sw^ahili traders who had visited it. The name is 
 used by them to designate generally the inhabited region at 
 the north end of Bassu, and I had pictured a populous and 
 extensive district. My surprise, then, was considerable when, 
 after one short march from its commencement, Mnyamiri told 
 me that we had reached the last kraals or Reshiat proper ; 
 the whole comprising but a few small villages scattered along 
 the shorc.^ It is rather a pleasant bit of country (com- 
 paratively so, at all events) ; some sandy ridges rise from the 
 shore, fairly well grassed, with open plains behind and open 
 water in front. 
 
 I saw a good many hippos here, and herds of " topi " 
 grazed sometimes quite close up to the kraals. I did not 
 interfere with them during the march, but after camping 
 among some clumps of " suaki " bush went out to procure meat. 
 I first bagged a ram Grant's gazelle (though not without some 
 
 ' I afterwards leaniccl that there is another distriet of the same name at the north- 
 western corner of the lake. 
 
 U
 
 290 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 trouble, as the wind and sun were again together, the former 
 pretty strong and blowing the brim of my flabby old hat 
 constantly into my eyes) ; and then, after a good deal of 
 manoeuvring and dodging, succeeded in getting a shot at a 
 " topi." She (it was a cow) ran some distance, notwithstanding 
 that she had got the bullet fairly in the ribs, and disappeared 
 among some bushes. But I could tell by her flurried scamper 
 off that she would drop, and soon found her lying dead. She 
 was very fat indeed. All hands got meat again and were 
 happy. The topi, when in good condition (and nearly every 
 one I shot in this country was fat), furnishes splendid meat, 
 and is one of the very best of the larger antelopes for the 
 table ; thus resembling, in this respect as well as in appearance, 
 the " bastard hartebeeste " (though, for the matter of that, all 
 the hartebeestes are good eating). 
 
 The guinea-fowls here are of the species having a stumpy 
 horn and short thick beak with a little brush over its base. 
 A little farther south I had met with both the common horned 
 kind of East Africa and the vulturine guinea-fowl, also near 
 the lake. Flocks of crowned cranes frequent the cultivated 
 strip fringing the lake shore in this and the adjoining districts. 
 Their loud and rather musically plaintive note, while reminding 
 one strongly of the South African species, differs sufficiently 
 from the latter's cry to proclaim them distinct even before the 
 divergence in appearance is noticed. 
 
 While out hunting I came across a rather disagreeably 
 suggestive sight ; numbers of bleached and grinning human 
 skulls were scattered about over the ground, betokening some 
 bygone fight or slaughter. One account I heard attributed 
 these to a Swahili caravan, said to have been massacred by 
 natives ; but whether that was the true version, or whether they 
 marked some battle of the inhabitants with raiding Bworanas, 
 I am not sure. 
 
 I, as usual, made the acquaintance of the owner of the 
 kraal near which we had camped. He was one of the tribe
 
 XIII A SO/0 URN A T RESHIA T AND KERE 291 
 
 which the Swahihs call Wakwavi, a pastoral people who 
 formerly lived side by side with the Masai (to whom they are 
 akin), and by which race of marauders they were, after long 
 fighting, dispersed. They are now scattered far and wide ov^er 
 East Equatorial Africa, and members of the clan may be met 
 with living among the different tribes in the most distant 
 parts. They are useful as affording means of communication 
 with the peoples among whom they have settled, and whose 
 languages they have acquired, for every caravan has some men 
 with more or less knowledge of Masai. There are, of course, 
 drawbacks to passing all one has to say and the answers 
 through two interpreters (one is bad enough, even if efficient), 
 and no doubt the meaning is often altered or turned upside 
 down ; but in these remote parts, so seldom visited even by 
 Swahili traders, one may think oneself lucky to be able to 
 communicate at all, however imperfectly, with the inhabitants. 
 
 Lekwais (such was my present interviewer's name) told 
 me that around Bumi, the next district, which we should reach 
 on the morrow, were many elephants ; and that some had 
 been seen that very day b}' a boy who had come from there. 
 One herd, he told me, had its retreat by day in bush growing 
 1)1 the lake itself, but might be found outside in the early 
 morning ; others were in the habit of coming down to drink 
 during the night, and retreating to the back country for the 
 hours of da)-light. It was from him that I first learnt that 
 there was only one river entering the lake, from the north (as 
 Dr. Donaldson Smith found and has now made known), and 
 not two as had been supposed. Lekwais called this river the 
 Warr, but said (as I afterwards myself found) that it had a 
 variety of names. 
 
 This elephant news was indeed encouraging ; and I could 
 not help thinking continually how very fortunate I had been 
 to reach this country so successfully and easily ; my men and 
 donkeys all safe and sound, not one having been seriously 
 sick or sorry since leaving Nyiro. All through this wide
 
 292 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA ch. xiii 
 
 wilderness we had been able to travel quietly and comfortably 
 without any hardships or privations worth speaking of. Hard 
 zvork we had had some of among the hills and rocks and 
 stones of the south end of the lake, but no insurmountable 
 obstacles nor serious accidents. Above all, the lake had 
 always been near to give us water and guide us on our way 
 without risk of thirst. Everything had seemed in our favour, 
 and happened most propitiously for our journey. 
 
 We were now close to the extreme northern end of the 
 lake, and the shore we were following was in reality that 
 of its most easterly inlet running in that direction. As we 
 proceeded on the following morning (28th December) along 
 the extensive low flats studded with " suaki " bushes, which at 
 this point border the lake, the part of the latter we were 
 skirting assumed almost the character of a mangrove swamp. 
 The shallow water is thickly filled with bush extending far 
 out ; indeed, from the low bank, except a lane here and there, 
 little open water can be seen, and it appears as if the whole 
 width of the gulf were of this nature. 
 
 I soon noticed quite fresh elephant spoor along the path 
 we were now following, and some distance ahead a flock of 
 white egrets attracted my attention, hovering about one spot 
 at the edge of the marsh and anon settling, apparently on the 
 bushes. On getting nearer I made out a herd of elephants 
 just outside of this swamp bush. I stopped the " safari " and 
 went towards them with only my gun-bearers. There might 
 be thirty of them : I could not see them all at once. They 
 were moving slowly along, feeding here and there as they went, 
 accompanied by the white egrets, which perched on their backs 
 and heads and bespattered them with white splashes, the pure 
 white plumage of the birds contrasting picturesquely with the 
 dark bodies of their great hosts, who seemed to have no 
 objection to their attentions. Why, then, I wondered, do the 
 tick birds never haunt elephants as they constantly do rhinos 
 and other animals ? I have always supposed that elephants
 
 CO M ^
 
 294 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 resent such liberties, and, being provided with far-reaching 
 trunks, are able to make it unsafe even for such active and 
 persevering little hunters, to get rid of whom the tormented 
 donkey rolls in vain. Whether or not elephants harbour the 
 right sort of parasites to suit the taste of these little birds I 
 cannot say ; but the egrets appear to accompany animals, not 
 for anything to be found on their persons, but for the sake of 
 the insects disturbed by their feet as they move about. 
 
 By the time I got near them the elephants were entering 
 the swamp, some already in the mud and water, which — full 
 of pits from their feet — was impassable for us. A few stood 
 still on the edge, and I might have reached them and shot 
 probably one ; but I thought it better to leave them alone, as, 
 though I might kill one, I should disturb the herd and could 
 not follow it, while interfering with my chance for the morrow. 
 So I satisfied myself with feasting my eyes on the spectacle, 
 standing on an ant-heap glasses in hand. It was a grand sight ! 
 There were some good tuskers among them, though, owing to 
 their being turned away from me and already among the 
 bushes, I could not get a view of the ivory of most, but the 
 massive size of those I could see showed them to be bulls. 
 One, a fine young male with beautiful white, symmetrical teeth 
 of perhaps 60 lbs. apiece — egrets sitting on his back, — stood 
 picking a mouthful or two of leaves off a shrub outside after 
 the others had entered the water. They slowly plodded, with 
 much splashing, through the deep mud, and disappeared into 
 the mangrove-like swamp. The wind, and everything except 
 the mud, had been favourable for shooting, and I was filled 
 with hopes of success for my hunting in this region. 
 
 I returned to the caravan and we continued our march to 
 Bumi, the next little settlement ; which consists, like Reshiat, of 
 a few kraals scattered at intervals along the lake. A continuous 
 narrow strip of cultivation runs along the shore. The people 
 of both these little districts live from hand to mouth, beginning 
 to eat the green millet as soon as the grain is formed ; so that,
 
 XIII A SOJOURN AT RESHIAT AND KERE 295 
 
 though they keep on planting crop after crop as each is reaped, 
 not only have they none to spare for sale, but they are them- 
 selves often in straits for food ; for the area under cultivation 
 is so small that the produce of one crop is finished long before 
 the next is fit to eat. The inhabitants of Bumi belong to a 
 totally different tribe from those of Reshiat, and speak a 
 different language. Their tribal name is El Gume (akin to the 
 Suk), and they are, I gathered, immigrants from west of Bassu. 
 They own little live stock — a few goats only — but snare game, 
 while their next-door neighbours of Reshiat have no skill in 
 hunting or trapping in any shape or form. The latter are 
 mainly pastoral by nature, though now their cattle are but few ; 
 and, like all pastoral tribes, they are a good-looking, well set-up 
 race, both men and women mostly very tall though of slender 
 build. The El Gume are far inferior in these respects. 
 
 I camped near one of their kraals a little distance back 
 from the lake, where I had found a small tree with creepers 
 over it to give me a little shade. The heat here is tremendous, 
 as great as on the coast, and it is generally rather a relief 
 when the fiery sun disappears ; but no sooner was it down 
 than the air became thick with mosquitoes, simply in millions, 
 and I had to finish my dinner in great discomfort. I had a 
 smoky fire lighted just behind my tent, so that the wind blew 
 the smoke in ; this helped a little, and, though half choked, I 
 managed thus to hold friendly converse with the owners of the 
 kraal. But I was soon glad to take refuge under my mosquito- 
 net ; and, in spite of a few of these assiduous insects that 
 found their way in with me, should have slept tolerably well 
 had it not been for the row the poor men were making all 
 night, who could get no rest, and spent most of the time walk- 
 ing about flapping themselves with cloths. 
 
 As soon as light enough to see, I started to hunt the 
 elephants we had passed on our way here the day before. We 
 soon found fresh spoor ; then warm dung ; then heard a great 
 splashing and saw one in the water, and, just after, sighted the
 
 296 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 herd standing close to the edge of the swamp at about the 
 same place as yesterday. It seemed a herd of bulls, chiefly at 
 any rate ; there were a {&\\ I took for cows, but I incline to 
 think they may have been young bulls, and that they and their 
 tusks seemed so small by contrast with the monsters. The 
 herd may have numbered perhaps twenty or thereabouts ; it 
 did not seem a large one. In order to get up to them I had 
 to skirt the swamp and pass through some mud — the wind 
 being favourable that way, while there was just enough cover 
 to allow a near approach, with caution. The sun had but just 
 risen behind the elephants, its horizontal rays thus shining 
 right in my eyes ; and, to add to the difficulties, no sooner had 
 we got to the edge of the swamp than the mosquitoes attacked 
 us in myriads. It was useless to attempt to combat them : one 
 saw them hanging from one's eyelids ; they got into my ears, 
 down my neck, even into my mouth, and bit me all over, 
 through clothes and everything. But I had to disregard them, 
 as far as possible, and concentrate my attention on my game. 
 
 I crept up behind some low bushes to pretty close quarters 
 to the herd, which stood in a clump. One big fellow, with fine 
 tusks, was nearest me, just the other side of this slight screen. 
 He came forward a little, giving me a good side shot, and, 
 fearing they were about to enter the swamp, I seized the 
 opportunity and gave him a shot in the shoulder. There was 
 but a very slight breeze blowing in my face, and the volumes 
 of smoke, from lO drams of the abominable old black powder, 
 hung in the heavy morning air, so that I could not use my 
 second barrel at once. However, the elephants seemed uncertain 
 at first which way to run, and, opening out a little as they 
 moved about in confusion, allowed me to make out two or 
 three real monsters (though nearly all were large bulls) ; so, 
 picking out two of the others with the biggest tusks (having 
 by this time reloaded my right barrel), I sent a bullet into the 
 ribs of each. The herd then swung round and set off at a 
 run, describing a semicircle so as to get into the swamp behind
 
 XIII A SOJOURN AT RESHIAT AND KERE 297 
 
 US, one, however (probably the first I had fired at), going oft" 
 alone slowly, evidently very hard hit, in the opposite direction. 
 Running across with my magazine rifle in m}' hands, I was 
 able — though not in time to cut them off — to get in two or 
 three shots at the wounded ones, with the result that another 
 turned out and walked back across the flat. 
 
 By this time the main body had entered the swamp, but I 
 noticed the bull with the longest tusks of all, and which I was 
 particularly anxious to kill, behind, and getting along apparently 
 with difficulty. I had the .303 still in my hands, and as he 
 stood for a moment on the edge, before following the rest into 
 the swamp, I had a fine chance, and aimed for his temple in 
 hopes of dropping him. But the confounded rifle had got on 
 half-cock in the mysterious way it has the knack of doing at 
 the most inopportune moments, and by the time I had got 
 hold of the i o-bore the elephant was off after the others ; 
 however, I gave him a couple of stern shots and he came to a 
 standstill. I could see he was done, so watched him. Another, 
 that looked like a cow, waited a little for him, but then went on, 
 and I did not interfere with it. I had left Smiler behind to 
 give me warning should the wounded ones come back. After 
 watching the huge fellow standing up to his belly in the swamp 
 a minute or two, and being satisfied that he was done, I 
 turned to go and look after the others, but, just as I started, 
 he made an effort to move, and then fell over on his side in 
 the water, one tusk and half his body, but very little of his 
 head, visible. 
 
 Leaving him now with confidence that he was safe, I went 
 out to where Smiler was on guard. I found that he had heard 
 rumblings only a short way ahead in the direction the first 
 wounded bull had taken. I climbed a high ant-heap to get a 
 view, and soon made him out lying down but with his head up. 
 I felt sure he could not get away, but was considering whether 
 to go and give him a shot in the brain, when I saw several 
 other elephants a good way ahead. Some four or five were
 
 298 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 moving slowly along the edge of the swamp away from us, but 
 one giant stood behind alone. I now started after them. As 
 we passed opposite the one that was down, I saw that it had 
 fallen over on its side. Going on, we found much blood on the 
 spoor of the big bull standing alone, which was thus proved to 
 be my third wounded one, and, getting within glass-range, I 
 could make out a bullet-hole in his left shoulder. I noticed he 
 seemed standing as if lame in both shoulders, and when I got 
 pretty near he turned round, and I could see that there was 
 also blood on the opposite side. I now crept up, and, taking 
 the cripple-stopper, held for a steady finishing shot, but two 
 cartridges snapped, and I had to take my .303 again. He was 
 moving towards the swamp again now, and more or less away 
 from us, so that it was not easy to bring him down suddenly ; 
 but, after receiving two or three bullets in quick succession, he 
 staggered and pitched on his front knees, resting his tusks on 
 the ground for support, his lofty hind-quarters still standing 
 erect, and, after remaining for a brief space in this curious 
 position, lurched backwards, and finally rolled over on his side. 
 Thus I had my three bulls — all huge fellows — down. This 
 last had massive but not long tusks. I measured him carefully 
 at once. The elephants that had been in front of him had now 
 disappeared into the swamp, so we retraced our steps towards 
 the other dead ones. 
 
 On coming within sight of the other, which lay in the open, 
 I could see its upper tusk gleaming in the morning sun like a 
 great white crescent, concave side downwards. When I came 
 up to it I was indeed pleased to find its tusks were both long 
 and thick — much bigger than any I had yet shot. They 
 girthed i foot 9^- inches just outside the lip. My gun-bearers 
 congratulated me with pleased smiles. I believed the one in the 
 lake, though, to be the best of the three, but when I came to 
 measure the tusk above water (the right) I found it was not 
 quite so thick. At the same time, I knew that an elephant 
 always falls with its heaviest tusk down ; besides, I had a good
 
 XIII A SOJOURN AT RESHIAT AND KERE 299 
 
 view of its left — now under water — which had been next me 
 when it passed, and it had particularly caught my eye, being 
 long and of a yellowish colour.^ Anyway, I felt that I had 
 done a satisfactory morning's work. 
 
 Several natives had now turned up, and I told them to 
 follow me to camp and I would then give them leave to take 
 the meat. Taking another look at my prize in the water as I 
 passed, I soon reached my tent — no great distance — and had 
 a bath and some food, while Squareface went with some porters 
 to cut out the fat and choose an elephant for my men (Swahilis 
 are prejudiced generally against eating elephant meat, but 
 many of mine had overcome their scruples while in my service, 
 and learnt to appreciate it), and make over the other one on 
 dry ground to our neighbours here, while that in the water was 
 to be for Lekwais's people. But when I got there later I found 
 that the natives had already cut up all three. I reached the 
 one in the water by being pushed through the intervening space 
 in a dug-out, but only the skeleton was left of the upper half, 
 and they were even cutting off the meat under water. When ex- 
 postulated with for this unseemly haste, they declared that they 
 meant no harm, but explained that they had been accustomed 
 to follow about the white man, who had been here lately, when 
 he went out shooting antelopes, to pick up the carcases left 
 lying on the veldt. 
 
 Abdulla (my headman) was in great spirits at the news of 
 my success, and I felt I had made a good beginning towards 
 my ivory heap. My intention was, though, to push on till we 
 reached a district where food could be bought, as I knew the 
 importance of doing so while we still had a good store in hand, 
 and then, after making a standing camp and seeing the food 
 trade fairly started, to return with a few men to hunt. But as 
 the people at the kraal here were very keen to show me a large 
 
 ' The elephant which fell in the swamp eventually proved to be slightly the best. 
 The weights of the tusks when got out were — 113 lbs. and 11 1 lbs.; 112 J lbs. and 
 108 lbs. ; and 76^ lbs. and 66 lbs. Of course they subsequently lost a little in drying.
 
 300 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 herd of elephants which, they said, were in the habit of drink- 
 ing every night at the lake close by, and returning into the 
 extensive bush, which here stretches from the open ground near 
 the shore over all the gently-rising country behind, to pass the 
 day, I determined to stay over one more day. I was sorry for 
 my men, who could get little sleep ; as for me, though this 
 Egyptian plague of mosquitoes destroyed all comfort, I could 
 take refuge under my net, while they were unprotected from the 
 merciless foe. I wondered how the natives could live in such 
 a place, and, on inquiring, was told they slept in rows with fires 
 between each two ; but my men declared fires to be of no avail 
 against these mosquitoes, so I can only suppose the inhabitants 
 had become to some extent inured to the venomous swarms. 
 
 My next day's hunt was rather a failure. My native 
 guides proved to have little skill in venery, and took me 
 careering about the bush without any method, apparently on 
 the chance of running up against elephants. Like children, 
 they fancied that where they had lately happened across the 
 herd, there we were sure to find it now, and were astonished 
 not to see the elephants waiting for us. Thrown upon our own 
 resources, we pursued more systematic tactics, with the result 
 that we at length found spoor. It led us a long chase over a 
 series of low, gravelly ridges covered with fairly thick, though 
 not dense, bush, and at last to a herd of cows and calves. I 
 was not keen on shooting cows here, where I knew there were 
 bulls to be found, and circled round the herd in hopes of dis- 
 covering some. I could sec none, and one large cow, with very 
 fine teeth, was in the centre of the herd, and I could not get 
 near her without alarming others I should have to pass. The 
 upshot of it was that, the wind being shifty, some of those on 
 the outskirts, which I had passed very close to before I saw 
 them, got my wind, and the whole troop stampeded ; and, 
 though I followed a long way, all I could get a chance at were 
 two small cows, which I shot with my .303. I killed these for 
 the sake of the natives near whose kraal we were camped, as
 
 A SOJOURN AT RES HI AT AND KERE 
 
 they had been forestalled by outsiders at yesterday's bulls, and 
 were very eager for meat, and I wished to encourage their 
 friendliness to us. The tusks, though good, were thin and light. 
 
 We had a hard and rather disappointing day, and our 
 weary tramp back was made longer by our getting somewhat 
 out of our course — for our guides had long since disappeared ; 
 it was cruelly hot, and my gun-bearers were worn out by the 
 mosquitoes and burnt up with thirst. But even out of these 
 evils good came ; for, in some rather open bush country we 
 passed through before reaching the lake (which we afteryvards 
 struck too far north), I saw some large hartebeeste of a species 
 not only new to me, but which seemed to correspond exactly 
 with none of which I had read. There was a little herd of 
 them, and I had a good look at one (apparently the bull) which 
 brought up the rear, through my glasses, and became much 
 interested, feeling certain this would prove to be an undescribed 
 species. For, although a mere hunter, my love of the subject 
 had led me to acquire some general superficial knowledge of 
 African antelopes, including the hartebeestes. Its action and 
 general appearance corresponded with that of other members 
 of the genus, but it struck me as resembling most, both as to 
 size and in other respects, the " tora." 
 
 I did not get near enough to have a good chance to shoot 
 one, and, though no doubt I might have succeeded had I 
 followed, under the then circumstances I was not very anxious 
 to kill a specimen, feeling sure that I should be able to obtain 
 some before leaving the country. And so, fortunately, I did, 
 in spite of subsequent difficulties, and the curious fact that 
 I met with this hartebeeste nowhere but in this particular 
 neighbourhood. My inquiries of the natives elicited only 
 confirmation of my own observations in this respect : they all 
 declared that only in that circumscribed locality was this 
 animal known. The explanation probably is that this is the 
 extreme limit of its range in this direction, the area of its 
 distribution projecting in a narrow point, as it were, so as to
 
 302 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 approach Lake Rudolph only at this particular part. For the 
 natives themselves do not penetrate any distance into the back 
 country, as was shown by their conduct on this day. I had 
 supposed that they turned back from fear of the elephants, of 
 which they undoubtedly stand in great dread ; but they assured 
 me they were afraid to go far in that direction lest they might 
 meet with some of the Batshada people, with whom they were 
 
 ^„,-v 
 
 A New HaRTEBEESTE [Dubalis naimanni.f, and 9). 
 
 not on speaking terms. It show\s how risky it is to lose a 
 chance of getting any desirable specimen when opportunity 
 offers, in the hope — which may and often does prove vain — 
 of meeting with plenty more farther on. In this instance, 
 however, I was luckily not disappointed, and was able to bring 
 back with me to this country the skulls and scalps of a male 
 and female, as well as a flat skin. Subjoined is the description 
 of this new species of hartebeeste from the Annals and 
 Magazine of Natural History (ser. 6, vol. xx. October 1897).
 
 XIII A SOJOURN AT RESHIAT AND KERE 303 
 
 NOTE ON A NEW ANTELOPE 
 
 By the Hon. Walter Rothschild 
 
 Bitbalis neuDiatjni^ sp. n. 
 
 Mr. Arthur H. Neumann, during his recent travels in some of the most 
 interesting' parts of Africa, on the east shore of and to the north-east of 
 Lake Rudolph, met with a hartebeeste which I cannot refer to any of the 
 already known forms, and which I wish to name after its discoverer. I 
 have before me two skulls with horns of a male and of a female, and the 
 skin of the body of one. 
 
 The horns differ widely from those of Biibalis Wf^ry'fr (BIyth) of West 
 Africa, and B. biiselaphiis (Pall.) of Northern Africa and Arabia, in being 
 slenderer and in their tips being inverted, instead of pointing outwards or 
 straight behind. The nearest ally seems to be B. torn (Gray) of Upper 
 Nubia, Abyssinia, and Kordofan, which, however, has more slender horns, 
 with more distinct rings, reaching almost round, a broader forehead, and 
 a generally paler coloration. The horns also diverge much more in B. tora, 
 as shown at a glance by the distances between the tips of the horns, 
 as recorded in Rowland Ward's Horn Measurements. B. iieitnianni has 
 evidently nothing to do with Acronotus lehvel, Heugl. {Reisc N.O.-Afr. ii. 
 p. 124), in which the tips of the horns point' straight outwards. Matschie 
 has referred A. lelwel to the West-African Bubal, but Sclater and Thomas 
 have more correctly placed it among the synonyms of B. biiselapJiiis. 
 However, a query should be added to the name, the description not being 
 exact enough to make out what the name means. The type is not in the 
 museum at Stuttgart, according to kind information of Professor Lampert, 
 nor can it be found elsewhere at present. 
 
 The horns of B. neianantti measure as follows : — 
 
 Circumference at base, (^ 273 millim., $ 183 ; total length along the 
 curves, (^420, 9 345 ; tip to tip, <^ 206, $ 249. 
 
 The rings of the horns are not \er)- prominent, and do not reach all 
 round. 
 
 Breadth of skull at forehead, S 100 millim., 9 80; length of skull 
 from base of horn to up|)er lip, along the side in a straight line, S 43°, 
 9 403 millim. 
 
 Colour of hair fulvous fawn, much richer on the back, where there are 
 also some darker spots, which may be stains or natural ; below, very much 
 paler. Chin blackish, tip of tail black. The male is brighter and darker 
 in colour than the female. There arc also on the back some patches with 
 longer, thicker, almost whitish-buff hair, perhaps remains of the winter fur.^ 
 
 ' There is no winter in licjuatorial .\frica. — A. H. X.
 
 304 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 I was anxious to get on to Kcre, where Mnyamiri assured me 
 we should be able to buy plenty of " mtama " grain, in order 
 to make a standing camp and depot ; moreover, the discomfort 
 every one experienced here from the nightly plague disposed 
 me the more to push on without further delay at present. The 
 mosquitoes seemed, if possible, even thicker than ever that 
 night, and even I, under my net, could get little rest. It can 
 be understood, then, that it was with no reluctance that the 
 caravan left Bumi, where the men had all been so miserable 
 from lack of sleep, and proceeded on its journey. 
 
 About an hour's march took us to the extreme point of the 
 most north-easterly horn of the lake. Here we were to leave 
 the lake and strike across for Murli, a little distance up the 
 river ; so, having been told it would be rather a long march, 
 I halted the caravan to allow the men to fill their calabashes. 
 About here we crossed a great deal of elephant spoor, the 
 creek being a much-frequented drinking-place, and even saw 
 two, one with a calf, crossing an open glade on the far side 
 towards thick forest, which stretches uninterruptedly from there 
 to the mouth of the river. On turning our backs upon the 
 lake we passed first over pleasant open ridges dotted with trees, 
 where was a good deal of game, mainly " topi," and I took 
 note of suitable camping-ground, two or three miles from the 
 water, where I hoped we might be comparatively free from 
 mosquitoes, to pitch my tent in on my return for systematic 
 hunting after establishing a market. 
 
 Alurli^ did not prove so far as I expected. After topping 
 the highest part of the gentle rise between the fork of the lake 
 and the river, a winding belt of tall, dark-foliaged trees could 
 be seen marking the course of the great affluent ; and thence 
 the descent was through thick scrub, for the most part, until 
 the cultivated ground in the neighbourhood of the villages 
 
 1 The letter "r" is pronounced with a strong roll in all names in which its sound 
 occurs in this region. Thus this might give a better idea of its true pronunciation if 
 written " Murrli. " The " u " is, of course, similar to our " oo " in sound.
 
 xiii A SOJOURN AT RESHIAT AND KERE 305 
 
 is reached. The settlement consists of several large kraals 
 near the river. It is not a pleasant place, as there are no trees 
 at this point on the left bank ; however, as I knew of no better 
 near, after searching in vain for some more suitable spot, we 
 camped on the high bank overlooking the river. The latter is 
 deep, broad, and dark-coloured, with a slow current, and looks 
 navigable here, but the natives only seem to use their few dug- 
 outs for ferrying across. Numbers of crocodiles are always 
 visible in mid-stream, floating lazily with more or less of the 
 upper part of their heads above water. 
 
 These were the least attractive people I had seen ; very 
 black, ugly, and not too civil, though at the same time not 
 offensive. The women are disfigured by way of ornament, in 
 the most ghastly fashion. The lower lip is separated from the 
 mouth by a slit extending from corner to corner, and into this 
 gash a section of the thick end of a cow's horn, two or three 
 inches long, is inserted, the severed part of the lip being stretched 
 over the edge of the upper opening of the horn (of oval section), 
 the hollow of which is closed by a saucer-shaped piece of wood 
 fitted into it, while the rest of the horn depends in front of the 
 chin. They are a most revolting sight to look upon ; and they 
 appear to be conscious of it themselves, for I have often seen 
 one put her hand up in front of her mouth to hide the dis- 
 gusting appearance from our astonished gaze. Nothing I had 
 ever seen brought home to me so emphatically that we had 
 indeed penetrated into the heart of savagedom. Some even 
 have a similar ornament, though on a somewhat less ex- 
 aggerated scale, in the upper lip as well. Some of the men 
 affect a miniature horn-like ornament attached by perforation 
 of the centre of the lip just above the chin ; but this does not 
 distort the mouth. 
 
 There were cultivated lands of some extent in the vicinity 
 of these villages ; but the only ones now under crop were the 
 low narrow terraces on the immediate brink of the river. 
 These, naturally irrigated when the river is high, grow magnifi- 
 
 X
 
 3o6 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 cent millet (now nearly ripe) in their rich alluvial mud. 
 Though one would have thought the natives here must have 
 plenty of grain, nothing was offered to us for sale with the 
 exception of a few green ears — like bunches of small grapes — 
 for which an exorbitant price was asked. 
 
 At last, on ist January 1896, we reached Kere, which I 
 intended should be the end of our long journey, at all events 
 for the present, and our headquarters for some time to come. 
 The march was through dense scrub most of the way, but there 
 was a passable path which was parallel with the river, at times 
 close to the bank or skirting one or two large lagoons which 
 border its course. After about five hours of this, the scrub 
 ends abruptly, and, emerging into the open, the metropolis of 
 Kere, a large fenced village, is before us on a slight rise over- 
 looking the river, a few smaller villages, constituting the 
 kingdom, not far off. The vicinity of the town did not look 
 inviting as camping-ground : behind and around open veldt, 
 yellow with dry grass ; in the immediate environs bare baked 
 ground, sending up clouds of dust under the frequent passage 
 of flocks of goats and little herds of cattle ; not a tree to give 
 shade from the glaring heat. I resolved to seek a cooler, 
 cleaner, and more secluded camp on the river -banks, where 
 groves of fine and shady trees presented an inviting contrast. 
 
 But first we had to exchange greetings with a party of 
 young warriors — fine, tall, well-made fellows many of them, but 
 black as the ace of spades, — who had come out, spears and 
 shields in hand, to see who the intruders were. " Beni ! " (friend) 
 would cry one, to attract your attention ; of this a responsive 
 grunt is the correct acknowledgment. " Na ! " shouts he : 
 " Faya ! " you reply. He — " Na ! " you — " Faya ! " " Na " — 
 " Faya," " Na " — " Faya "- — ad lib. To be polite, you must 
 now accost your friend with " Beni ! " and, after his " nn," take 
 up the " Na ! " while he chimes in with " Faya ! " and so on 
 " Na " — " Faya," " Na " — " Faya," etc., as before. 
 
 I had some trouble in finding a suitable camp. The
 
 XIII A SOJOURN AT RESHIAT AND KERB 307 
 
 enticing groves of forest trees proved to be across the river ; 
 but I got a satisfactory spot at last under a large tree alongside 
 a patch of bush, conveniently near the river and not too close 
 to any kraal. Every one has his own ideas as to what consti- 
 tutes a good site for a camp. Swahilis always take up their 
 quarters close alongside of, or even in, the village. They like 
 the natives constantly crowding about and in their tents ; and 
 do not regard the other conditions, such as want of cleanliness, 
 distance from water, etc., as discomforts. I prefer a little 
 privacy with clean ground, and look upon proximity to water 
 and, if possible, shade as desirable concomitants. 
 
 I have advisedly styled the little district of Kere a 
 " kingdom," for it was the first tribe I had come in contact 
 with in all the country from Mombasa to here which recognised 
 a chief. In the afternoon I sent up Abdulla and Mnyamiri 
 (the latter of whom was already known to him) to present my 
 salaams to Labugo (such was his name) and report my arrival 
 officially. He sent word in reply that he would visit me in 
 the morning. No presents passed so far. 
 
 A young fellow, to all appearance one of the inhabitants of 
 the place (except that he was not quite so black), and like them, 
 in common with the males of all the tribes of this part of 
 Africa, stark naked, came out and made himself known to me 
 as a member of Count Teleki's caravan, having been left in 
 Reshiat sick, as a boy, some eight years previously, and lived 
 with the natives as one of themselves ever since. He seemed 
 pleased to see me, and said he would like to accompany my 
 caravan on our return to the coast. To this I had, of course, 
 no objection, and thought Hamisi (his Swahili. name) might 
 prove useful as interpreter while we remained here, though he 
 certainly seemed rather out of practice with his mother tongue. 
 In reply to my inquiries why he had never returned to the 
 coast with trading caravans, one or two of which I knew to 
 have visited the country during the intervening years, he said 
 that he would not trust Swahilis, and preferred remaining here,
 
 3o8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA en. xiii 
 
 where he was kindly treated, to being enslaved. I afterwards 
 learned that there was another waif from the same expedition 
 living at Bumi, whom Mnyamiri claimed as a kinsman ; but he 
 would have nothing to say either to his would-be cousin or any 
 ol us, having become so thoroughly habituated to the savage 
 life that he had no desire to revert to one less wild. Indeed 
 he would not acknowledge that he was any different from the 
 natives of the place, nor was he distinguishable from them b}- 
 any one but Mnyamiri, who professed to know him by certain 
 marks, which he himself also carried, characteristic of a par- 
 ticular clan. 
 
 I had recollected that this was New Year's Day, and thought 
 we were happy to have reached a place of rest on such a pro- 
 pitious date. I little knew what was in store for me ; for a 
 terrible event happened towards sundown. On my arrival here 
 about mid-day I had bathed in the river, standing up to my 
 waist in the water, which was deep close in to the bank, in spite 
 of the crocodiles to be seen in the middle ; for both I and the 
 men had been in the constant habit of performing our ablutions 
 in the lake, where these reptiles were in plenty, and so had 
 come almost to disregard them, though I never went out of my 
 depth, or even far from the bank. 
 
 Late in the afternoon I went down for another bathe, with 
 Shebane fmy servant) as usual carrying my chair, towels, etc., 
 and did the same thing again. It is a large river and deep, 
 with a smooth surface and rather sluggish current ; its water, 
 dark-coloured and opaque, though hardly to be called muddy, 
 deepens rapidly, so that a step or two in is sufficient at this 
 point to bring it up to one's middle, while the bottom is black, 
 slimy mud. As we descended the bank towards the low 
 muddy shore, a native who was tending his crops said some- 
 thing to us, but knowing nothing of the language we could not 
 understand him. Having bathed and dried myself, I was 
 sitting on my chair, after putting on my clothes, by the water's 
 edge, lacing up my boots. The sun was just about to set

 
 3IO ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 behind the high bank across the river, its level rays shining full 
 upon us, rendering us conspicuous from the river, while prevent- 
 ing our seeing in that direction. Shebane had just gone a little 
 way off (perhaps a dozen yards) along the brink and taken off 
 his clothes to wash himself, a thing I had never known him do 
 before when with me ; but, my attention being then taken up 
 with what I was doing, I took no notice of him. I was still 
 looking down when I heard a cry of alarm, and, raising my 
 head, got a glimpse of the most ghastly sight I ever witnessed. 
 There was the head of a huge crocodile out of the water, just 
 swinging over towards the deep with my poor Swahili boy in 
 its awful jaws, held across the middle of his body like a fish in 
 the beak of a heron. He had ceased to cry out, and with one 
 horrible wriggle, a swirl and a splash all disappeared. One 
 could do nothing. It was over ; Shebane was gone. The men 
 soon came swarming down (some one having given the alarm) 
 to see, some with guns ; one fool asked for boats. There was 
 nothing to be done, but sadly to pick up the ownerless clothes. 
 I felt truly sad and sorry for my servant, and the dreadful 
 incident had an insupportably depressing effect on me. A 
 melancholy New Year's Day indeed ! 
 
 Shebane had been my " boy " for two years, having accom- 
 panied me in that capacity on both my journeys into this 
 region. He had learnt my ways and was a good and cheerful 
 servant, so that it can be understood how much I missed him. 
 I now learnt that it was no uncommon thing here for a native 
 to be taken off the banks by these loathsome reptiles, and a 
 man was actually so taken while we were in Kere. 
 
 The next morning Labugo came to see me, but brought 
 no interpreter, so we could do little but look at each other. 
 My first impression of him is thus described in my diary : — 
 " He is a very tall man ; does not seem intelligent, no expres- 
 sion, looks neither pleasant nor surly, merely apathetic." There 
 was nothing chiefly about his bearing, nor did his people seem 
 to regard him with awe nor treat him with much respect. He
 
 A SOJOURN AT RE SHI AT AND KERE 
 
 brought me no present, not even food. In the afternoon I 
 sent for him again, and, having got hold of Hamisi to interpret, 
 had a great " shauri," he being now attended by some of his 
 principal retainers. 
 
 It now transpired that there were two grievances, which, 
 trifling as the circumstances may appear, were troubling the 
 minds of Labugo and his people. First, why had I camped 
 here, in the bush, instead of alongside of his town ? I pointed 
 out to him that, as a European, I had my own customs and 
 ideas, which differed from those of Swahili traders, and tried to 
 explain how miserable I should have been, exposed to the 
 fierce sun and the clouds of dust raised by the frequently 
 passing cattle, with crowds of gaping natives continually round 
 my tent, not to mention the din they made night and morning ; 
 at the same time, I declared that this was equally his kraal 
 where we were. The second source of offence was that we 
 had fired no guns on arriving. As to this, I asked him whether 
 there had been any attempt at concealment about our arrival ; 
 any sneaking in at night, or round some back way ? Had we 
 not rather come at mid-day, right past his town ? And did 
 I not send envoys specially to announce my advent ? As to 
 letting off guns, I said that I was not in the habit of wasting 
 cartridges for nothing, after the manner of Swahilis ; I kept 
 mine for elephants or enemies ; and by way of a final clincher, 
 which I knew would tell (and I could see by their looks, did), 
 I promised him that, should any hostile tribe attack him while 
 I was here, he should hear my guns fast enough. I then took 
 him into my tent and gave him a present of assorted treasures, 
 handing him in addition some beads for his followers. His 
 own he left in my charge till the evening, being afraid of having 
 the whole begged from him by his loving subjects, should they 
 catch sight of it. Labugo promised food trade for the morrow, 
 and said he would come himself to arrange about the price. 
 He also said there were elephants in the neighbourhood, and 
 that I should have sfuides to show mc their haunts whenever I
 
 312 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 liked. He gave me small offerings of food, and a day or two 
 after brought a large, but not very fat, " billy-goat." I was 
 pleased with this attention (notwithstanding that the animal 
 did not promise to make good meat), as showing a good feeling 
 towards me. I therefore accepted with thanks, and made him 
 another present (which seemed to catch on) in return, giving 
 also soft words. 
 
 The market question proved a troublesome one, and it was 
 two or three days before any understanding was arrived at. 
 This did not surprise me, as I had often been had that way 
 before ; and I congratulated myself on our having twelve full 
 loads still in hand of the food we had brought so far with us, 
 to live on while the dead-lock in the food trade continued. 
 It was a serious question to us, and called for much tact and 
 patience as well as all my arts of diplomacy ; for we needed 
 large supplies, and it was most important to obtain them at 
 reasonable rates, lest our stock of beads, etc. (the currency of 
 the country) should run short before our return to the coast. 
 Swahili traders are singularly improvident in this respect, and 
 often get into dire straits in consequence. " Exploring " 
 caravans, too, are generally a source of inconvenience to the 
 humble traveller coming across their track who needs to 
 economise his goods and get his supplies of food cheaply. As 
 a rule, money is no object to the leaders of such expeditions, 
 whose headmen are allowed, unchecked, to lavish goods from 
 their abundant stores with reckless profusion and disastrous 
 results to prices (which, once raised in Africa, can never be 
 lowered again) and to the sorrow of those who may follow. I 
 am bound to give Mr. Astor Chanler, at whose boma I was 
 camped for some time near Laiju in the Kenia region, credit 
 for being an exception to this rule. He not only did not spoil 
 the market there, but put it into good order, though the 
 Swahilis have since made it worse than ever. Thus it was 
 some time before I could come to any terms with these people, 
 and then food was dear and came in only in driblets. They
 
 XIII A SO JO URN A T RES HI A T A ND KERE 3 1 3 
 
 explained, however, that, until the crops now ripening should 
 be ready to gather, grain was scarce. 
 
 In the meantime I had a hut built for myself and a shed 
 to store my goods, food, etc., in. It was a great comfort to 
 have a roof and walls, a bit more substantial than canvas, to 
 shelter one and rest in ; for the weather was excessively hot 
 notwithstanding that, being north of the line, it was now really 
 the coolest time of year here. During this delay I sent some 
 men back to Bumi to extract the tusks of my elephants, now 
 loose through decay, and bury them in the kraal there. I 
 never chop out ivor)' now, unless in a hurry, as that is a 
 laborious process and the ivory is often chipped ; whereas in a 
 few days natural decomposition causes the tusks to slip out 
 without trouble and uninjured. 
 
 One night at this time a hyena carried off and chewed up 
 Mnyamiri's powder-horn, which had been hanging from a bush 
 right over its sleeping owner. His own account of it was that 
 the " fisi " (as they call it) had intended to seize him, but had 
 made a bad shot. The next day he offered up a goat in conse- 
 quence, and went through a religious ceremony in connection 
 with the sacrifice to protect him from wild beasts. I was 
 pleased to accept a bit of the goat, as it was a meat famine 
 with me at the time ; but I had my doubts as to the efficacy 
 of exorcism against marauding animals. That night my own 
 ration of beans was carried off from Feruzi's (my cook's) camp, 
 and the bag containing it rent open by the " fisi." This might 
 be, of course, because it was the portion of an unbeliever ; but 
 unfortunately for the success of such an explanation, the 
 following day a leopard chased a native cur out of the bush 
 right up to and nearly over Mnyamiri himself, in broad day- 
 light, nearly frightening him out of his senses. I myself heard 
 the yelping, very suggestive of intense fear, made by the flying 
 pariah. This additional proof of the boldness of the beasts 
 here rather upset Mnyamiri's confidence in his charm, and I 
 think he almost regretted having grudged a bit of his goat as
 
 314 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 bait for a gun which I had offered to set. By this time it had 
 all been eaten, so I was unable to lay a trap then. 
 
 Bawdo, a younger brother of the chief and a friend of mine, 
 brought word that afternoon that elephants were damaging the 
 crops on the other side of the river ; so it was arranged that he 
 should come first thing next morning to take me to hunt for 
 them. Accordingly at sunrise I started with him and my 
 usual attendants. I did not like the ferrying in a crank and 
 wobbly canoe : 1 am no sailor, and confess I do not feel safe in 
 such a craft, with my clothes and boots on, and over a deep 
 and dark river below whose smooth surface I know lurk 
 monstrous crocodiles in numbers, voracious and hungry. But 
 Bawdo was expert with his pole, used either to punt or paddle 
 according to the depth of the water. He was a fine athletic 
 savage, tall and lithe, and looked quite a model in ebony as he 
 stood in the stern of his dug-out, pole in hand, plying it 
 vigorously, now on this side and now on that. Our quest was 
 fruitless as far as elephants were concerned. We followed the 
 spoor of a small herd of cows a long distance, but then found 
 the footprints of some natives following it ahead of us, so it 
 was useless going farther. 
 
 On the way back we came across a small herd of topi antelope. 
 I got a nice shot and knocked over two (bull and cow) with my 
 .303. Bawdo, who had never seen anything shot before, was 
 much impressed at seeing each tumble over a i&\w yards from 
 where it had received the bullet, and examined the tiny holes 
 (^particularly those of egress) with evident emotion. I was 
 glad that he, an important and noted warrior, had witnessed 
 this practical demonstration of the power of our weapons ; 
 because I had heard that some of the young men of Kere had 
 made contemptuous remarks about firearms as compared with 
 spears for fighting purposes, and did not doubt that his report 
 would have a salutary effect. We pulled the two " topis " under 
 a tree, and I left a man to commence skinning, while we 
 returned to camp and sent others to carry in the meat. It
 
 XIII A SOJOURN AT RESHIAT AND KERE 315 
 
 proved nice and fat and was welcome, giving my men a fine 
 feast, which they evidently appreciated, as shown by the noise 
 they made in the evening. But Bawdo, who had patiently 
 ferried it all over, together with the porters, in his canoe, to 
 my surprise turned up his nose at it, though he asked for a 
 skin. It seemed the people of the Kere tribe proper do not 
 eat game, though the El Gume, of whom there were plenty too 
 here living in small communities in villages of their own side 
 by side with them, eat anything and everything. The latter 
 keep donkeys, a large herd of which I had seen to-day, for the 
 sake of both their meat and milk. Prizing them highly as food, 
 they cannot be induced to sell any, being indifferent to trade 
 goods. 
 
 I was now able to set a gun for the hyena which had made 
 itself a nuisance, and hoped even to get the leopard, as I 
 have often caught this animal too by such means. The latter, 
 however, never came ; but while I was having my evening 
 smoke in bed, bang went the gun, and I went, accompanied by 
 several excited volunteers, to see the result. It was our friend 
 the " fisi." For a wonder he was not quite dead, and, though 
 unable to run away, was still on his legs — as we could make 
 out, on getting close up, by the light of a wisp of dry grass 
 used as a torch — and staggering about in the gloom. I had 
 brought my revolver in my hand on the chance of a weapon 
 being needed, and soon despatched him with a couple of shots 
 from it, and the men dragged him out and made merry over his 
 corpse in camp, after I had put a fresh cartridge in the set gun. 
 It was worth the trouble of setting it even to give the men 
 so much amusement. I now went to bed and to sleep, and 
 slept till about 3 A.M., when I was awoke by the gun going off 
 again. But I did not turn out till it got light, and then, on 
 going to see, found it was another " fisi," this one dead on the 
 spot, as is usually the case when a gun has been properly set. 
 I chaffed Mnyamiri a bit, telling him my charm was more 
 powerful than his. It is exemplary of the different methods of
 
 3i6 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA ch. xiii 
 
 the European and Swahili that, though Mnyamiri was only too 
 glad of an excuse to kill a goat, nominally as a sacrifice, really 
 for a feast, he grudged giving a small piece of meat to trap the 
 animal he was praying to be preserved from ; while I, though 
 going through no incantations, soon put our unwelcome visitor 
 beyond reach of doing further mischief 
 
 Though I have seen descriptions of the setting of guns in 
 books, I have never seen advocated the best method of contriv- 
 ing the means by which they are to be fired ; it may therefore be 
 useful to set forth the system I find most successful, and at the 
 same time the simplest. But as I shall have occasion later on 
 to describe and illustrate my plan of setting guns for lions, which 
 is done on a different principle, it may be better to give both 
 methods then.
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 Back to Bassu — Vigilant guards — A miraculous escape — Acute sufferings — Native 
 solicitude — An exultant tribe — Rare luxuries — A long illness — An anti-slavery 
 tribe — A chiefs prescription — Longing for a change — A relapse — IMy "con- 
 valescent camp " — Start a poultry-yard — Breeding-time of topi — Native trappers 
 — A curious phenomenon — Fabulous elephants — Arrival of ivory traders — A 
 happy coincidence. 
 
 Everything being now in order here, and as Abdulla was 
 able to buy sufficient food to keep us going and a little over, 
 with the prospect of a better supply later on enabling us to 
 accumulate a store as soon as the fine crops of " mtama," now 
 nearly ripe, should be reaped, there was nothing to keep me 
 here longer. The men I had sent to extract and stow away 
 the ivory of the elephants I had shot on the way here had 
 returned from Bumi after accomplishing their errand, and 
 reported that elephants were still drinking nightly at the corner 
 of the lake, though nothing had been seen of the troop of bulls 
 since I had attacked it. I therefore made my preparations for 
 a hunting trip back to Bassu in the first instance ; and on 9th 
 January started with fifteen men, taking my tent and other 
 necessaries, and a supply of food to last us some time, as well as 
 ammunition, etc. Before leaving, I commended my people 
 whom I left behind to Labugo's care, and enjoined upon 
 Abdulla and those under his charge to on no account fall out 
 with the natives. 
 
 Starting, as was my usual custom, about 5. 30, we marched
 
 3i8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 to the neighbourhood of Murli ; but instead of going right on 
 to the villages, we halted at a charming camping-place I found 
 under fine shady trees by the river-bank about half an hour 
 short of the settlement, and rested there about 2.30. These 
 grateful groves of tall, dark-foliaged trees, which fringe at in- 
 tervals the river-banks, form a refreshing contrast, pleasant to 
 the eyes, to the thirsty-looking stunted scrub with which the 
 greater part of this arid country is covered. They are fre- 
 quented by the beautiful colobus monkey, whose cry may often 
 be heard in them, though the animals themselves keep out of 
 sight in the leafy tree-tops. Then going on again we bivouacked 
 at sundown on the open ridges half-way between Murli and 
 Bumi. I found plenty of mosquitoes even so far from the lake, 
 and had to get up in the night and pitch my net ; but there 
 were not enough to trouble my men much. 
 
 The next morning we went on down towards the lake 
 and formed camp under a tree about half an hour's walk 
 short of its nearest point. I then sent on to Bumi for my 
 two native friends. On arriving they said there was a large 
 herd on the edge of the lake near here, but that it was now in 
 the dense bush which stretches from the other side of this bay 
 towards a place called Murthu, near the mouth of the river. 
 They came prepared to sleep in my camp, ready for hunting 
 on the morrows In the afternoon I went out and shot a " topi " 
 for meat, not far from camp. There were great numbers of 
 them about. 
 
 This was loth January. Just before the entry for that day 
 I find the following note in my diary : — " Up to this I wrote 
 regularly in my diary each day the doings of the day before. 
 Meeting with a serious accident on the i ith, I was unable to 
 keep on this practice for the time : nor did I feel certain whether 
 I should ever be able to pick up the thread again, not knowing 
 how my illness might end. I therefore kept count of the days 
 and events on note-paper in pencil only, and it was not until 
 27th January that I felt able once more to open this book ; be-
 
 XIV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 319 
 
 ginning by copying in my rough notes for the intervening days." 
 And the entry for iith January is headed by this note: — 
 " This account was written two days after the event. I need 
 hardly point out that if it is not very lucid, a consideration of 
 the circumstances under which it was written may cause its 
 weak points to be pardoned." Nevertheless, though the word- 
 ing is terse and abrupt, the description of the details of that 
 disastrous hunt is sufficiently clear to bring vividly back to me 
 the memory of every incident and of some particulars even 
 which I had forgotten. With its help I will endeavour to give 
 an intelligible account of what happened. 
 
 We were off betimes, then, on the morning of this eventful 
 day. Striking straight across the open, we made a tangent to 
 the farther edge of the bay and soon entered the thick bush 
 which, from a little bej'ond it, stretched over the whole country 
 along the shores, and even into the lake itself, right away to the 
 river, and back towards the path we had come by the day before 
 from Murli. Our friends took us first to an isolated patch of 
 cultivation on the border of the swamp in which the lake here 
 terminates. The owners, a man and one or two women who 
 belonged to the district of Murthu beyond, were standing on 
 high platforms constructed on lopped trees so as to command 
 a view over their little field of millet — nourished into luxuriance 
 by the damp alluvial soil. The sun had but lately risen, and 
 the mosquitoes were still unpleasantl)' active, though the natives 
 seemed not to notice them, their attention being taken up by the 
 birds, flitting hungrily about the little clearing, at which they 
 shouted and slung stones. Their task was one of unremitting 
 care ; for they were compelled to sleep on their elevated look- 
 outs in order to endeavour by shouting to scare the elephants 
 from their crops. These latter were apparently not much in 
 dread of the guards or of their noise, for we learnt that they 
 had been heard close by that morning, and were even now 
 probably not far off 
 
 Entering again the encircling forest, we proceeded along
 
 320 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chai>. 
 
 the muddy margin of the swamp. Here the bush was dense 
 and leafy ; farther out into the swamp the trees seemed dead, 
 but no open water was visible, while farther back the cover was 
 in parts a little less continuous and varied here and there by 
 narrow grassy glades. We soon came upon fresh spoor on the 
 elephant paths — which cut up the thicket skirting the swamp, 
 and wound in and out, sometimes through mud, at others over 
 sandy soil. The footprints were of cows and calves, and there 
 appeared to be a large herd. I wanted bulls ; but, as our 
 informant in the garden had told us there were some of these 
 also, I went on in hopes of finding them. 
 
 We now heard much splashing ahead, as of many elephants 
 tramping slowly through the marsh. They seemed to be moving 
 along in front of us, in the direction we were going. The 
 wind was most troublesome and perplexing, blowing sometimes 
 in our faces and again coming from behind, so that it was 
 difficult to decide how to act. Under the circumstances I 
 decided to push on and chance it. W^e soon overtook the rear- 
 guard, as wc could tell by the splashing opposite us ; and 
 shortly after saw a little lot of cows enter the path ahead of us, 
 coming up diagonally from the swamp. They must have got 
 our wind, for they were evidently aware of our presence ; but 
 they did not seem alarmed, and continued to saunter slowly 
 along in front of us, occasionally standing for a little. I could 
 only get fitful glimpses of them as the windings of the paths 
 allowed, but I saw enough to show me that they were all small 
 cows with comparatively light tusks. I was therefore not 
 anxious to shoot them ; but followed for some distance with 
 my Lee-Metford (as the most suitable weapon, anyway for this 
 class of elephants) in my hands (not wishing to use any of my 
 big cartridges on such small fry), on the look-out for one with 
 rather better teeth. 
 
 As they seemed all about the same class and I was afraid 
 they would re-enter the swamp and escape us altogether, I 
 increased my pace so as to overtake them, with the idea that
 
 XIV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 321 
 
 even smallish tusks were better than no ivory. As I did so, 
 they halted again. I could see only bits of one or two through 
 the foliage, and was hesitating what to shoot at when one of 
 them decided the matter by coming towards me. I fired for 
 her chest, and she fell at once and never got up again. The 
 others continued their way, and I hurried after them till one of 
 them, a cow with small tusks, turned and chased us a short way ; 
 but we had a good start, and when she got unsighted she turned 
 back after the others. I did not want to shoot her, for her 
 ivory was poor and she had a calf with her. Following again, I 
 got a chance at another cow, with teeth a little better than 
 those of the first. A single .303 bullet disabled her also, passing 
 diagonally through her shoulder. As she plunged about a good 
 deal in falling, I gave her a shot in the brain from the Martini 
 in passing, by way of making sure, and hurried on without 
 bestowing another glance at my second victim. Just after this 
 a large elephant crossed the path in front, pausing a moment 
 opposite me. 1 seized the opportunity it thus gave me, and, 
 though it passed on to the right after receiving the shot, I felt 
 sure it was fatally hit. I did not pause then to look for it, 
 and later we had other things to think about, but some days 
 after, when my men came to fetch the ivory, they found it 
 lying dead close to where I had fired at it (a young bull with 
 tusks of about 50 lbs. the pair). 
 
 More than once this morning the next cartridge had refused 
 to go into the breech of the magazine rifle after a shot, in one 
 case spoiling a good chance at another elephant ; and I said 
 and felt that I was not safe with this weapon in my hands, in 
 spite of its marvellous shooting powers — to say nothing of 
 losing elephants through the best chance often passing. Never- 
 theless I kept on with it without giving the matter another 
 thought. Without a moment's delay after firing at the young 
 bull (whose short, white, thickish tusks I had mentally noted), 
 I pushed on along the narrow path which continued parallel 
 with the swamp, through dense jungle, in pursuit of the still 
 
 Y
 
 322 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA cii. xiv 
 
 slowly retreating elephants. I may say parenthetically here, in 
 explanation of the behaviour of these elephants, that, though 
 there are, I believe, some natives across the river who hunt 
 them and sometimes kill a few, the inhabitants generally 
 all round this part stand in great fear of these animals, 
 and run away whenever they happen to come across any. 
 Hence, I fancy, the elephants have become accustomed to 
 this treatment, and, regarding human beings with contempt, are 
 inclined to be aggressive and so exceptionally dangerous. 
 
 Advancing hastily thus, on the look-out for another shot, I 
 came suddenly on two or three round a corner of the path. 
 Among them was the vicious cow, and she came for me at a 
 rush. I say the vicious cow, because, from her short stature and 
 small tusks, I believe she must have been the same that had 
 made the short charge earlier in the day ; I could also see that 
 there was a large calf following her as she came. I stood to 
 face her, and threw up my rifle to fire at her head as she came 
 on, at a quick run, without raising her trunk or uttering a sound, 
 realising in a moment that this was the only thing to do, so 
 short was the distance separating us. The click of the striker 
 was the only result of pulling the trigger. No cartridge had 
 entered the barrel on my working the bolt after the last shot, 
 though the empty case had flown out ! In this desperate 
 situation I saw at once that my case was well-nigh hopeless. 
 The enraged elephant was by this time within a few strides of 
 me ; the narrow path was walled in on each side with thick 
 scrub. To turn and run down the path in an instinctive effort 
 to escape was all I could do, the elephant overhauling me at 
 every step. As I ran those few yards I made one spasmodic 
 attempt to work the mechanism of the treacherous magazine, 
 and, pointing the muzzle behind me without looking round, 
 tried it again ; but it was no go. She was now all but upon 
 me. Dropping the gun, I sprang out of the path to the right 
 and threw myself down among some brushwood in the vain 
 hope that she might pass on. But she was too close ; and,
 
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 324 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST A ERICA chap. 
 
 turning with me like a terrier after a rabbit, she was on the top 
 of me as soon as I was down. In falling I had turned over on 
 to my back, and lay with my feet towards the path, face upwards, 
 my head being propped up by brushwood. Kneeling over me 
 (but fortunately not touching me with her legs, which must, I 
 suppose, have been on each side of mine), she made three dis- 
 tinct lunges at me, sending her left tusk through the biceps of 
 my right arm and stabbing me between the right ribs, at the 
 same time pounding my chest with her head (or rather, I sup- 
 pose, the thick part of her trunk between the tusks) and 
 crushing in my ribs on the same side. At the first butt some 
 part of her head came in contact with my face, barking my 
 nose and taking patches of skin off other spots, and I thought 
 my head would be crushed, but it slipped back and w^as not 
 touched again. I was wondering at the time how she would 
 kill me ; for of course I never thought anything but that the 
 end of my hunting was come at last. What hurt me was the 
 grinding my chest underwent. Whether she supposed she had 
 killed me, or whether it was that she disliked the smell of my 
 blood, or bethought her of her calf, I cannot tell ; but she then 
 left me and went her way. 
 
 My men, I need scarcely say, had run away from the first : 
 they had already disappeared when I turned to run. Finding 
 the elephant had left me, and feeling able to rise, I stood up 
 and called, and my three gun-bearers were soon beside me. I 
 was covered with blood, my clothes were torn, and in addition 
 to my wounds I was bruised all over ; some of my minor 
 injuries I did not notice till long afterwards. Squareface, on 
 seeing the plight I was in, began to cry ; but Juma rated him 
 for his weakness and he desisted. I made them lead me to a 
 shady tree, under which I sat supported from behind by one 
 of them sitting back to back with me ; was stripped as to 
 my upper parts, and my wounds bound up. I then told 
 Juma to run back to my camp as fast as he could for help 
 to carry me in. The elephant had trodden on the stock of
 
 XIV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 325 
 
 my gun, indenting it with her toe-nails, but otherwise it was 
 uninjured. 
 
 I could not blame my gun-bearers for leaving me ; though 
 they had loaded rifles in their hands. It was through no fault 
 of theirs that I was caught this time. It is true that I did 
 think that Squareface, who had my big double in his hands, 
 might have fired a shot, considering that he had shown himself 
 able to kill an elephant when he was not wanted to ; but it is 
 not a service that one expects of Swahilis, and it might probably 
 have done no good. They had never left me in the lurch 
 without occasion, but had many times stuck by me well at 
 critical moments ; and as for poor Squareface, he has since 
 fallen a victim to a still worse fate himself, as will appear later 
 on. They declared, very likely with truth, that they had not 
 even known I was caught. It was a most fortunate circum- 
 stance for me that this accident had occurred beside the lake, 
 where water was close at hand to appease my feverish thirst, 
 cool my wounds, and pour over my head. Camp was a con- 
 siderable distance away ; but at last, in the afternoon, the men 
 came, cut a pole, and carried me carefully in a ground-sheet 
 slung on it. On the way back we had to pass close to part 
 of the herd of elephants, which were still about. I could hear 
 them quite near, and dreaded lest the men should throw me 
 down and bolt. But they carried me past safely, shouting 
 occasionally as a precaution, and we reached my tent at sun- 
 down. Then I had to be washed amid clouds of mosquitoes. 
 
 There is no need to describe my sufferings. That they 
 were intense is self-evident. Still, I felt from the first that I 
 had a good chance of recovery. By the most happy good 
 fortune, though several of my ribs were broken, no limb was 
 fractured ; and, by almost a miracle, the tusk had neither 
 severed the artery of my arm nor penetrated my lungs. Thus 
 I had every reason to feel thankful for having got off so easily. 
 In following this pursuit one must reckon with the risks ; and 
 I always knew that there was a probability of an accident
 
 326 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 happening some day. In fact, if one only keeps on at it long 
 enough, sooner or later he is bound to be caught. For in 
 hunting elephants in the dense cover in which, for the most 
 part, they have to be sought in Equatorial Africa, any little 
 hitch or mischance at a critical moment, such as tripping up, 
 or a difficulty with one's gun similar to what occurred in my 
 case, is sufficient to turn the scale against one's chance of 
 escape ; and, once caught, the odds are overwhelming that the 
 hunter upon whom the tables have been turned will not live 
 to tell the tale. Just retribution, perhaps you will say ; and, 
 for my part, I harboured no ill-will against the elephant for 
 avenging its kith and kin. It was the fortune of war. 
 
 The next day I sent word to Abdulla to come with more 
 men to carry me back to Kere, that I might be laid up in my 
 own camp. They arrived the morning after, and made a 
 stretcher under my directions ; and early on the third I was 
 carried back half-way. At this halting-place I caught a severe 
 chill, through lying naked on wet sheets all night. I made 
 my men pour water over my wounds to cool them, and no one 
 had the sense to see that I should suffer from this treatment, 
 while I was too weak to take much notice. The result was 
 severe fever, which added greatly to my sufferings. But details 
 of these would not make edifying reading. My men carried 
 me with the greatest care and gentleness back to Kere, and 
 the journey was less painful than I had expected. I thought 
 it well to give Abdulla a short letter to take back to the coast 
 in case I should not recover, explaining what had happened, 
 and testifying to their good behaviour. One and all vied with 
 each other in doing everything in their power for me ; they 
 gave me no trouble, and their behaviour was in every respect 
 most praiseworthy, while their solicitude for me earned my 
 sincere gratitude. 
 
 Though my men's exemplary conduct gave me no cause 
 for disquiet, I felt considerable anxiety during this long period 
 of helplessness and pain. My camp at Kere was, as I have
 
 XIV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 327 
 
 explained, within a short distance of Labugo's large stockaded 
 village. His people had recently been successful in routing 
 a neighbouring section of their tribe which had attacked them, 
 and had afterwards burnt the villages of the aggressors and 
 captured their cattle, and were exultant and inclined to be 
 boastful ; and as I lay during those long weary nights of 
 suffering, unable to sleep, I used to listen to them singing and 
 dancing half the night and fear lest they might be tempted by 
 my own helpless condition and the smallness of my little party 
 to think our belongings would be an easy prey. But they 
 never molested us nor stole a thing all the time we were there. 
 Their weird and rather tuneful singing, mellowed by the inter- 
 vening distance, was in itself rather pleasant and helped to 
 pass the dragging hours ; and I always felt grateful for the 
 commotion heralding the earliest streaks of dawn, as the 
 inhabitants bestirred themselves preparatory to hieing to their 
 fields, before the birds began their forays on the heavy red 
 clusters of ripening grain. Then as the light began to come 
 I would be put outside on my camp chair, while the air was 
 yet comparatively cool, to watch the wedges and undulating 
 lines of storks and pelicans winging their way across the placid 
 sky — against whose pale, greenish blue background, lit up with 
 faint streaks of crimson, their rhythmically gliding forms stood 
 out, though below it was still dusk — before the fiery sun should 
 make all one glare, up or down the river as they changed their 
 feeding-grounds between the various small lakes near its course. 
 The days were less tedious than the dreaded nights. 
 Among other sources of distraction I used often to question 
 Hamisi about his experiences among the people of Kere. He 
 described to me the battle, before alluded to, in which he had 
 taken part. All the inhabitants were collected in the town 
 on the news being brought in by a woman of the approach of 
 the attacking force. The fighting men, armed for the fray, 
 waited till the enemy, advancing in battle array, were within 
 a stone's throw of their gates ; then, having proclaimed to
 
 328 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 his warriors that their day had arrived to do or to die, Labugo, 
 spear and shield in hand, led the charge upon the confident 
 foe with such effect that the assailants were put to flight with 
 great slaughter. This account raised Labugo very much in 
 my estimation, proving him to be as different in character as 
 he was in appearance from the orthodox type of obese, self- 
 indulgent African monarch, cruel and cowardly ; and though 
 he resembled others in his rapacity for presents, by which he 
 worried me a good deal, I could not but feel a respect for this 
 tall, active, and redoubtable savage. 
 
 Hamisi also introduced to me an affable old man whom 
 he called his father, with whom I had an interesting chat 
 through his adopted son's interpretation. I found out from 
 him that these people know little or nothing of the country 
 beyond their own immediate neighbourhood. The petty 
 detached tribes with which it is so curiously peopled are 
 mostly at enmity, and always distrustful of each other, so that 
 there is little communication except within the narrowest 
 limits. He told me that they believed that there was a tribe 
 of cannibals living to the northward, but the only evidence 
 they had was the testimony of a woman who had run away 
 from there and found her way to Kere, where she had since 
 made her home. She described how they bound their victims, 
 he explained, while he demonstrated the method for my 
 edification by drawing up his legs as he sat on the ground, 
 his knees against his chin and his calves touching his thighs, 
 at the same time clasping his arms round his doubled-up legs. 
 In this position they were put alive into huge pots, water 
 poured in, and fires lighted under them. I told him I thought 
 the tale was probably invented by the woman out of spite 
 against the people she had escaped from ; but he evidently 
 believed it. He also gave me an account of a great flood 
 which had occurred on the river, when the water reached 
 nearly to their kraal, which is on pretty high ground, bringing 
 down huts, cattle, and human bodies.
 
 XIV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 329 
 
 The men, including this old gentleman and even Labugo 
 himself often, used to go out daily with the cattle to protect 
 them from marauders while grazing. They owned a good 
 many, thanks partly no doubt to their recent victory over 
 their invading neighbours and the consequent raiding of the 
 vanquished enemy's stock. This was indirectly advantageous 
 to me, as I was able to buy milk, a rare luxury in Central 
 Africa, the only nourishment I could take for about the first 
 month of my illness ; indeed, if it had not been for that, I do 
 not see how I could possibly have pulled through. 
 
 I found it necessary to procure special calabashes for my 
 portion to be milked into, or I could not drink the milk. 
 The universal method of cleansing the utensil into which a 
 cow is milked, among most Central African tribes, is by 
 turning it upside down over a lighted stick of a particular 
 kind, thus confining the smoke, which is peculiarly pungent, 
 and causing the vessel to absorb it. It then imparts its 
 pungent flavour to the milk, which sometimes, after this treat- 
 ment, fairly burns one's throat. The owners of the cows 
 objected to milking them into any tin or dish of European 
 manufacture, declaring that their milk would dry up ; but I 
 got over the difficulty by procuring new calabashes, which 
 were sent with the payment for the milk always at milking- 
 time and afterwards washed. Another luxury I was able to 
 buy here was coffee ; and very good coffee, too. It is not 
 grown here, but procured from some natives living in the hills 
 not far off, with whom those of Kere were on visiting terms. 
 It cannot be grown very far away, because it is so cheap ; 
 when any was brought for sale a string of beads would buy 
 almost as much coffee as millet. It is dried in the cherry, 
 but my cook easily cleaned it by pounding in a wooden 
 mortar. The natives of all the little tribes around the head 
 of the lake are very fond of it, though what pleasure they 
 can get out of drinking it in the way they cook it I cannot 
 imagine. The coffee, just as it is in the dry cherry, is boiled.
 
 330 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 without roasting, for hours and hours, and the hot decoction 
 drunk. I suppose it must have some invigorating property, 
 but it tastes like dirty water. 
 
 I took particular pains to find out whether slavery is 
 practised, or any slave trade carried on, by the people of 
 Kere and the adjoining districts. But all the information 
 elicited by my inquiries, made in various directions, went to 
 prove that none of the tribes round about the head of the 
 lake have any such customs. I was assured on all hands that 
 they do not enslave even their enemies, and was led to believe 
 that they disapprove of bartering human beings. I think that, 
 were there any such trade carried on, I could not have failed to 
 hear of it, as I have done in other parts of Central Africa — 
 even to being myself asked to buy sometimes. But what 
 seems the strongest proof that not even domestic slavery 
 obtains here is the fact that Hamisi was free and well treated. 
 Having been left in Reshiat some eight years previously, as a 
 small boy, he had wandered on, under pressure of famine, till 
 he found an asylum in Kere. Here he had been adopted by 
 the old man already mentioned, who had not only fed him, but 
 treated him with uniform kindness, as if he had been his own 
 son, from that day until my arrival. 
 
 Labugo sometimes came to see me. He rather bored me 
 when I was ill, as he generally came to beg. Had he been 
 entertaining, I should have been glad of his company, as I 
 was grateful for anything to pass the time ; but he was not 
 communicative and never smiled. However, I always tried 
 to be agreeable to him, as it was important to keep on good 
 terms. He showed a certain amount of interest in my pro- 
 gress, and the first time he saw me after the mishap he 
 strongly advised that I should have a sheep or goat killed and 
 drink the blood as medicine. As I believe blood is a purga- 
 tive, it may be useful in that way, failing any other remedy ; but 
 I thought I could obtain the same results with less disagreeable 
 drugs, so declined to avail myself of his prescription.
 
 XIV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 331 
 
 In the absence of any surgical aid, the heahng of my 
 wounds had to be left to nature, acting on a healthy constitu- 
 tion and seconded by cleanliness and water- dressings, while 
 my ribs had to set themselves. For weeks I hardly slept, 
 and it was two months before I could lie in any position 
 except on my back. Sometimes even that caused me such 
 agony that I had to be propped up all night in a sitting 
 posture ; but without any pillows or cushions, or an easy- 
 chair, I soon got too sore to endure that either. Still the 
 healing process went on gradually ; the hole in my arm had 
 closed without any trouble, and though the muscle did not 
 join quite evenly, through the severed parts being somewhat 
 displaced, it was well by about the middle of the second 
 month. My side was more troublesome, the internal injuries 
 causing suppuration with much discharge and all the disagree- 
 able consequences, rendered particularly trying by the swelter- 
 ing heat, day and night, which increased as the year grew older. 
 
 By the end of the first month I was so sick of the shut-in 
 camp at Kere, and had such a longing for a change of scene, 
 that, feeling so far better as to be able to stand being carried, 
 I determined to be taken back to the lake. On my journey 
 hither I had noticed, in the Reshiat district, a sandy ridge with 
 a {q.\v scattered trees, overlooking the lake at a part where it 
 was open water, and I longed to be there, in the more airy 
 situation, with the sea prospect and the birds and game to 
 interest me. Besides, I hoped soon to be able to pot some- 
 thing, if only doves ; for I began to feel the need of something 
 more substantial than a milk diet to recuperate my wasted 
 strength and fill out my shrunken limbs. I explained my 
 plans to Abdulla, and told him I had confidence that I should 
 pull round much more quickly if I could only get back to the 
 shores of Bassu ; so a stretcher was prepared, and twelve of 
 the best porters told off to carry me in relays, two at a time, 
 in it slung from a long pole. They performed their task most 
 zealously and ably ; leaving on 5 th February, we reached the
 
 332 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 place where I intended to camp early on the morning of the 8th. 
 The bulk of the caravan was still to remain at the Kere camp. 
 
 At first I felt so much better that I was able to walk 
 slowly without assistance, and even managed to shoot a few 
 doves with my rook rifle, a performance of which I felt 
 immensely proud. I then, presuming on my strength, 
 attempted a more ambitious task, and early one morning, 
 attended by the faithful Juma carrying the .303, managed to 
 get within long range of a topi, and even succeeded, at the 
 second shot, in killing it, much to my delight. But the 
 exertion was too much for me, and I had a relapse. I was 
 living in my tent again here, with only the indifferent shade 
 afforded by a small tree from the scorching sun. Worse fever 
 than ever ensued, accompanied by violent dysentery, throwing 
 me back another whole month. But by about the end of the 
 second from the accident, I was again well on the road to 
 recovery. By this time I had got a good airy hut built for 
 my$elf on the highest part of the rise, with other little buildings 
 near ; one for my cook, another to use as a bathroom, and a 
 shed for the stores, which were to be gradually moved from 
 Kere. 
 
 I called this " convalescent camp," for here I steadily 
 progressed without any further serious relapse ; and I was 
 really very comfortable in it in spite of some drawbacks, 
 notably mosquitoes and other insect pests. During the hours 
 of daylight the flies gave one no peace, and no sooner did it 
 get dark than mosquitoes put in an appearance, except when 
 there happened to be a stiff breeze blowing, though this had an 
 unfortunate knack of generally going down with the sun ; then 
 if I ventured to have a light on my dinner-table, the food soon 
 became filled with minute flies and little round yellow beetles. 
 All these insects were bred in the swampy margin of the lake. 
 The land was poor in insect life, owing to the dearth of flowers ; 
 there were very few butterflies, and those only of the commonest 
 kinds, and not a bee to be seen. As a consequence of the
 
 RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 absence of the latter, this country of course produces no honey, 
 though I did manage to get a Httle of very inferior quahty, 
 which came, I was told, from the hills. 
 
 But, notwithstanding these little discomforts, I was happy 
 enough during the two months I spent in this camp. I was 
 able to get milk daily even here, though I was forced to give 
 corn brought from Kere in exchange for it, as these people do 
 not care much for trade goods, and are generally, as already 
 explained, short of food. The bones which strew the ridge 
 for a mile or more in the neighbourhood of their kraals testify 
 to the number of their cattle before the dire plague of some 
 six years ago had decimated the herds of Central Africa. 
 Another luxury I had here was eggs. There are only one or 
 two kraals (in Bumi) where the natives keep a few fowls, and 
 I bought up all I could get and started a poultry-yard, of my 
 own with about ten tiny hens and a cock. These kept me 
 supplied with their funny little eggs, and afforded me a certain 
 amount of interest besides. They never laid more than ten or 
 a dozen eggs each before wanting to sit, but soon began again 
 when prevented from indulging this instinct ; but what attracted 
 my attention most about them was that, as a rule, they never 
 cackled after laying, in fact there was only one that ever did 
 so. I had every opportunity of observing this peculiarity, 
 because many of them used to lay in my hut. This seemed 
 to me a rather singular fact, and may go to prove that these 
 little fowls are more nearly related to the wild progenitors of 
 the race than our European breeds. The cock became dear to 
 me from his cheery crow, announcing the near approach of the 
 welcome dawn and the end of the tedious, oppressive night. 
 
 During the time that I was here there were several heavy 
 thunderstorms. I supposed these to be the heralds of the wet 
 season, which ought to arrive about April ; but they were 
 about all the wet season we experienced that year. Probably 
 this was an exceptionally meagre allowance of rain, even for 
 this country ; but there can be no doubt that the climate is a
 
 334 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 very dry one, as is proved both by the appearance of the 
 country and the poverty of its vegetation, and also by the fact 
 that the natives find it does not pay to cultivate except in the 
 damp ground close to the water. 
 
 These thunderstorms of which I have spoken brought out 
 a tinge of green grass over the open ground surrounding my 
 
 Topi HaRTEBEESTE i, [Damaliscus jimela). 
 
 camp — " the country sweated green," as a Zulu would have ex- 
 pressed it. There was a broad level valley behind, overlooked 
 by my ridge, and in this the topi antelope used often to collect 
 towards evening or in the early morning. They were sometimes 
 literally in thousands, the flat for a mile or more being covered 
 with them, collected in one enormous herd. During March all 
 the cows seemed to have calved, and I used to enjoy watching 
 the gambols of the troops of light fawn-coloured calves, racing
 
 XIV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 335 
 
 fleetly up and down, and chasing each other in and out among 
 the herd. Once or twice I had the opportunity of witnessing 
 a fight between two bulls. Between the rounds they stand a 
 little apart, pretending, as it were, to take no notice of each 
 other ; then, suddenly, as if instinctively impelled by some 
 simultaneous impulse, they rush together, going down on their 
 knees as their heads clash. At night the topi used to come 
 quite close up to my camp, and I have seen their footprints in 
 the morning within fifty yards of my hut, and often heard them 
 grunting and sneezing in the night. There were also a good 
 sprinkling of Grant's gazelle about, and a few zebra. The 
 latter were seldom to be seen during daylight, but on moon- 
 light nights I could sometimes make out the clouds of dust 
 they raised in rolling, and the bray of Grevy's zebra was con- 
 stantly to be heard then. The gazelles drop their fawns a little 
 later than the topi, apparently.^ A few giraffe are also found 
 (absent all along the lake southward), and I often saw a little 
 lot of ostriches when taking a stroll in the cool of the even- 
 ing. The sound made by the cock ostrich is commonly called 
 a roar ; but to my mind " drumming " is a more appropriate 
 description of it, and my men used to say that the ostrich 
 was " striking its drum " ; it has some resemblance, on an 
 exaggerated scale, to the drumming of a cock turkey. I could 
 trace no resemblance to the voice of the lion, which was not 
 wanting for purposes of comparison, being audible almost every 
 night at this time. Another familiar sound, which often added 
 its volume to the nocturnal music here, was the sonorous bellow- 
 ing of the hippos in the lake. 
 
 With game so near, I was able, as I gained strength, to 
 procure meat, even within the limited range of my early morning 
 strolls, the length of which I was gradually able to extend,, 
 starting with the first streaks of dawn and usually getting back 
 before the sun became very hot. Thus I could generally shoot 
 
 ' If I am not mistaken, the breeding-time is different south of the hue, but in tins I 
 am open to correction.
 
 336 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 a grantii for my larder, and a topi or two for my men whenever 
 I wanted. It was wonderful what a strengthening effect the 
 meat diet had on my lowered system, with almost magical 
 rapidity. I had tried in vain to buy a sheep or a goat from 
 our neighbours ; so little do they value the articles of commerce, 
 usually dear to savage hearts (or indeed any personal adorn- 
 ments whatever), that they could not be induced to sell one, 
 though they possess considerable numbers. 
 
 I dared use no other rifle now than the .303, for fear of the 
 recoil of black powder — even my trusty old .450 was now 
 permanently laid aside — and I came to value the wonderful 
 powers and pleasant shooting of this minute bore so much that 
 I never wished to use any of my others again. The absence 
 of recoil and smoke is such a comfort, and the deadly effect of 
 the long, thin bullet, propelled with such tremendous velocity, 
 so all-sufficient for any animal, that I never wished to go back 
 to the noise and other unpleasant habits of the old-fashioned 
 weapons. Its one drawback is the tricky mechanism of the 
 magazine. Of course I could not carry a rifle myself, and 
 could only shoot from a sitting position ; but the trusty Juma 
 always accompanied me, and even when creeping up for a shot 
 crawled at my heels, ready to put it into my hands at the last 
 moment, after I had got within range. It is true he used to 
 try my temper severely by his unconquerable habit of handing 
 gun or glasses wrong end foremost, or left-handed, which is 
 particularly exasperating when one's eyes are riveted on the 
 buck, and hurts the more that one cannot relieve one's feelings 
 by strong names, under such circumstances ; but he was free 
 from one most annoying fault of many gun-bearers, he never 
 lagged behind. 
 
 Another benefit I gained by being able to kill game again 
 was in the matter of light. There were one or two among the 
 members of my caravan who could, on occasion, the conditions 
 being favourable, manage to kill a sleepy, unsuspecting rhino ; 
 but wilder game, especially in the open, was seldom within
 
 RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 337 
 
 their powers of marksmanship. Consequently, during my long 
 illness, the supply for my primitive lamp had run short. Now 
 the topi were always fat, and Feruzi, after a few experiments, 
 acquired the art of making their hard suet into candles, using a 
 large, hollow reed, split lengthwise, as a mould. Beeswax, 
 where obtainable, is also suitable ; but it is not easy to get, 
 even in honey districts, as the natives always swallow it. 
 
 I obtained several fine heads about this time ; and although 
 I never allowed myself (nor would it be any pleasure to me) to 
 shoot anything which was 
 not wanted, the exercise 
 and diversion of keeping 
 up the supply of meat 
 occasionally, and at the 
 same time procuring 
 trophies, was a welcome 
 change to the monotony 
 of my life here during the 
 slow process of recovery, 
 and I could not have been 
 camped in a better situa- 
 tion for the purpose. It 
 was during the period of 
 convalescence, too, that I was so fortunate as to secure speci- 
 mens of my new hartebeeste. I had hopes of getting a young 
 topi alive, to bring to the coast, as the El Gume snare a 
 good many with nooses ; but, though I offered any price for 
 one, they never could make up their minds to forgo the feast 
 whenever a victim was caught. The snare is made of twisted 
 strips of hide, laid up exactly like the " neck-strop " used to 
 yoke bullocks in South Africa, with a running noose at each 
 end. A contrivance like a little wheel without a nave, with 
 an inordinate number of spokes (sharpened at the end point- 
 ing to the centre), is laid over a circular hole dug in a path 
 or crossing much frequented by game, and on the outer edge 
 
 z 
 
 A Native Game-Snare.
 
 v,8 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING JN EAST AFRICA 
 
 of this the loop of one end of the snare is laid, a log being 
 attached to the other. On an antelope treading on this trap 
 (which is covered over with grass, etc.), its foot goes through 
 the centre of the wheel ; the converging spokes hold fast to its 
 fetlock, preventing the noose from slipping off until the latter 
 is drawn tiijht. Then it sets off with the loGf draceino" and 
 
 Native Boxes made from Elephant Tusks. 
 
 bumping beside or behind it, alternately making short bursts 
 and turning to face the log, which it cannot shake off, until, 
 tired out, it falls an easy prey to the trapper. These people 
 do not seem to fish ; and the only kind of fish my own men 
 ever caught here was an occasional barber. One monster of 
 this kind weighed 38 lbs. and was 3 feet 6 inches long. 
 
 A curious phenomenon often drew my attention while
 
 XIV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 339 
 
 living here. The prevailing wind on the lake, as before noticed, 
 was from the south-east ; but whenever it changed to the north, 
 as it occasionally did for a day, bringing squally weather and 
 the thunderstorms already alluded to, the lake became dotted for 
 miles with floating islands of various sizes, some of them with 
 tall grass or rushes growing on them. These are evidently 
 masses of water-weed, detached by the strong northerly breeze 
 from great beds of floating vegetation formed about the mouth 
 of the river. They present a most curious and picturesque 
 spectacle drifting southward over the broad expanse of water ; 
 but, on the return of the prevailing southerly winds, they all 
 get backed up again at the northern extremity and leave the 
 water open once more. 
 
 One of the natives who had accompanied me on my ill- 
 fated hunt of 1 ith January was an Mkwavi, though living 
 among the El Gume people at Bumi. He was rather a nice 
 fellow, and often came to see me and professed great friendship. 
 He said that his father had been a friend of Count Teleki's, 
 when that great traveller was here on his memorable journey 
 during which he discovered and named this lake, and he con- 
 sidered it a duty he inherited to be " the dog of the white man," 
 as he expressed it. Lekwari (such was his name) confirmed, 
 by his own evidence, what I had already gathered from the 
 testimony of the dead trees and bushes standing, more or less 
 submerged, in the lake, some of which are visible at a great 
 distance from the shore. He said that at the time Teleki was 
 here a great part of this corner of the lake was dry, and that 
 what was cultivated land in those days is now under water, 
 thus restricting the area of moist ground suitable for growing 
 crops. This accounts for the difference between the present 
 configuration of this end of the lake and Von Hohncl's map of 
 the part. During our chats he used to tantalise me with tales 
 of fabulous elephants with tusks to which those I had shot near 
 here on my way up were as nothing ! He compared their 
 thickness to the girth of his chest, and pointed to the central
 
 340 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 posts supporting the ridge-pole of my hut as indicative of their 
 length, declaring that the owners of these monstrous tusks 
 were unable to lift their heads from the ground for their weight, 
 or even to run ! Although I hardly credited these tales, it 
 may well be imagined how I chafed under my imprisonment 
 when plied with such enticements and assured that these and 
 countless other elephants now thronged the banks of the lake, 
 just south of Reshiat. A few elephants even passed close to 
 my camp one moonlight night. My men wanted me to shoot 
 at them ; but I said that I was not yet strong enough to tackle 
 elephants again, and that when I was I should prefer attacking 
 them by daylight on my first attempt. Two were still grazing 
 on the flat when I went to bed. 
 
 As a matter of fact, although for a time I had impatiently 
 looked forward to getting to work again before long, I had at 
 last reluctantly realised that all my schemes for penetrating 
 farther into the unknown regions north and west of Bassu must 
 be given up for this trip ; but so much in earnest was I, and so 
 little discouraged by my reverse, that I used to amuse myself 
 by laying plans for another on a larger scale and making lists 
 of articles to be provided for the next expedition. Such 
 occupations helped to pass the time, which often hung rather 
 heavily, as I had little to read — and what I had had been read 
 over and over again. But I found a good deal to interest me, 
 even without leaving my hut, in watching the birds to be seen 
 from my door. Flocks of the little, long-tailed, bearded doves 
 were fond of feeding about on the ground outside, some coming 
 close up to the very door when I kept still. The rosy bee- 
 eaters, whose habit of riding on the great crested pauw I have 
 already referred to, were very numerous, while their " camels " 
 were common enough. One day I wrote thus in my diary : — 
 " Saw a bird that is new to me, apparently a stork. A pair of 
 them are hunting about in front of my hut. They are jet black 
 with white belly. One of the rose-coloured bee-eaters made use 
 of one as a steed in the same way I have often seen them do
 
 XIV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 341 
 
 with the large bustard ; it tried the other once, but it would 
 not submit to be ridden." A flock of the beautiful sacred ibis 
 frequently fed about my hut, and egrets often attended my 
 donkeys when grazing. 
 
 So time went on, and I almost began to think the wound 
 in my side would never heal ; but at last, three months after 
 my accident, it so far improved that I determined to make a 
 start southward, whole or not. With great difficulty Abdulla 
 had accumulated a sufficient store of food to carry us through 
 the desert. He had in vain tried all the surrounding districts : 
 not a ration was to be obtained anywhere else, and even at 
 Kcre the supply had so fallen off that we could hardly keep 
 pace with the consumption. Under these circumstances, if we 
 delayed longer we should soon be reduced to eating our stock, 
 so that it was important to start while that was still intact. 
 Accordingly, I had the whole of our belongings brought over 
 from Kere, the ivory dug up, and set about making all ready 
 for marching once more. The food and ivory were weighed 
 and made up into loads of suitable size for porters and donkeys 
 (a donkey carries two men's burdens), and all other necessaries 
 were adjusted for carrying, while the donkeys' pads and other 
 pack gear were overhauled and mended. 
 
 The difficulty of completing our food purchases had been 
 considerably increased by the arrival of a large Swahili trading 
 caravan from the Turkana country west of the lake. Kere 
 being practically the only market in the neighbourhood, these 
 traders had to repair there for supplies, and the district being 
 so limited, their competition at once caused scarcity and higher 
 prices. Fortunately we had already a good store in hand, and 
 needed but little more. On the other hand, Abdulla was able 
 to buy from them some splendid donkeys for me, which were 
 most useful to supply the place of some we had lost and 
 supplement our troop of pack-animals. These donkeys (of 
 which they had a large number) had been bought in Turkana, 
 where they are plentiful. They are of a light yellowish colour
 
 342 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 and very strong and enduring, but many of them extremely 
 wild and troublesome to pack. They are, no doubt, a near 
 relation of the wild ass. Their own country being a very dry 
 one, they do not suffer soon from thirst ; indeed, they seem to 
 drink less water than other donkeys, and understand digging 
 for it in the sandy river-beds with their feet. 
 
 This caravan was under the leadership of a Reloochi, and 
 had been away from the coast about two }'ears already. Such 
 caravans are made up of a number of traders, each with his 
 own goods, porters, etc. They combine together for mutual 
 help and protection on long expeditions. The ivory trading is 
 carried out by the leader, each trader putting in goods in 
 proportion to his wealth into the general stock, the proceeds 
 being afterwards divided in like proportions. One of these 
 men, who had formerly been an askari in a caravan of the 
 I.B.E.A. Co. which I had been with years before, and who 
 remembered me, sent me a present of a fine fat goat. This 
 was the most disinterested present I ever received from 
 an African, for the giver knew there was no possibilit)' of 
 our meeting and consequently that he could receive no 
 return. 
 
 By the most happy coincidence the last trace of the 
 aperture in my side — which had obstinately refused to unite 
 so long as the internal wound remained unhealed — finally 
 closed on the very day that Abdulla arrived with the last 
 instalment of our possessions from Kere ; and, to my intense 
 relief, a little more than three months after receiving the 
 injuries, I became externally whole once more. I was still 
 weak, and my battered chest and side sore and stiff; but I felt 
 so far sound, that not only did I feel confident of being able to 
 walk to the coast, but I determined to go on a few days ahead, 
 while Abdulla waited here with the main body, to have a look 
 for Lekwari's monster tuskers. 
 
 Giving my headman instructions, then, to remain until he 
 should get word from me, in readiness to follow at once with
 
 XIV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 343 
 
 the caravan, I started at length from my convalescent camp — 
 not without a certain amount of regret at leaving its accustomed 
 comforts — on 17th April. In spite of many drawbacks, I had 
 enjoyed many advantages there, and felt grateful to the now 
 familiar spot where I had so far recovered my strength.
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH {continued) 
 
 Adjustment of caravan — Desertion and disappointment — A school of hippos — "A 
 day of humiliation" — My clumsy specimen — A problem for scientists — An 
 elephant hunt — The reward of patience — Rapacity of a vulture — Shooting a 
 veteran — The tusk of a patriarch — Planning of transport — A diverting study — 
 Preparation of "biltong" — A triumphant show — Settling a point of honour — 
 A mistaken hardship — Treatment of carriers — Arrival of caravan. 
 
 My expedition, small as it was, had been equipped with a view 
 to being away at least two years ; hence I had some surplus 
 supplies of beads, cartridges, etc., which it would be useless to 
 carry back to the coast. These superfluous loads I left in 
 charge of Lekwari, building a little hut for the purpose of 
 storing them in his kraal and telling him not to expect to see 
 me back again under two years. By reducing my impedimenta 
 to what I considered necessary to see us down, including 
 possibly two or three months' delay at El Bogoi, I was able to 
 have several spare porters after allotting all the loads. Our 
 food supplies, consisting of some thirty odd loads of meal, and 
 the smaller ivory, as well as beads and ammunition, could all 
 be packed on the donkeys, leaving only the heavy tusks, my 
 own personal belongings and specimens, etc., to be carried by 
 the porters. Of course, had not my hunting been brought to 
 a sudden end and my journey cut short, I might have accumu- 
 lated more ivory than we could transport. But in that case I 
 should have had to make some special plan to get it carried 
 down, such as two trips to some point south of Bassu where a
 
 CHAP. XV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 345 
 
 depot might be made and whence help could be sent for to 
 the coast, or some such scheme. Although, unfortunately, no 
 such satisfactory difficulties had to be met, I was anxious at 
 least to take as much as my little party was capable of; that 
 is, to have no men " empty hands " (as it is called) nor carrying 
 anything that was not necessary. What I am driving at is, 
 that in order to render my caravan as usefully laden as possible, 
 it would be necessary to procure several more loads of ivory. 
 This deficiency I determined to make an effort to supply. 
 
 Lekvvari's yarns had not been without their effect upon me, 
 exaggerated though I knew they must be ; and I was keen to 
 see for myself how much substance there might be to warrant 
 his highly-coloured pictures of phenomenal tuskers. It had 
 been a great source of satisfaction to me that I had obtained 
 two or three very fine tusks (well over 100 lbs.) before the 
 mishap stopped my hunting ; for I had sold all the ivory shot 
 during my previous trip, in the confident expectation of getting 
 even better on this expedition, and it would have been a 
 grievous disappointment to have had to return to the coast 
 without a single really fine tusk to keep as a trophy. But 
 although such an ignominious failure was already obviated, I 
 entertained a lingering hope that I might even yet acquire 
 still finer specimens. 
 
 It was a bad augury for the truth of Lekwari's enticing 
 tales of marvellous elephants just beyond Reshiat, that in 
 passing the last kraals, only two hours after starting, he gave 
 us the slip and we never saw him again. Two other guides, 
 whom we procured there, were equally disappointing ; for, 
 having accompanied us a little farther and taken us somewhat 
 out of our direct course, they failed either to show us any fresh 
 tracks or to give us any information as to the game we were 
 in search of The fact is, these people arc no hunters : being 
 unable to kill game themselves, they take little interest in, and 
 are little or no use in its pursuit, though they arc ready enough 
 to eat it when killed. I therefore allowed these two to Gfo
 
 346 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 about their business, and determined to continue along the 
 route we had followed on our up journey in the hopes of 
 striking spoor farther on. I noticed a good many of the 
 smaller species of pauw, similar to the common pauw of South 
 Africa, during this day's march — a bird I have seldom met 
 with in Equatorial Africa. 
 
 The next morning we regained our former track in about 
 half an hour, and after following it for about two more I saw 
 a school of hippos in shallowish water near the shore of the 
 lake. As my men were keen for meat, that of the hippo- 
 potamus being highly esteemed of Swahilis, and my cook 
 importunate for lard, I determined to try and shoot one. The 
 wind, blowing off the lake, favoured me, and I was able to 
 creep up under cover of some rushes growing on the bank. 
 In the confusion that followed my first shot I could not tell 
 whether I had killed or no, and so fired at and wounded a 
 second. I was sorry afterwards that I had done so, for when 
 the rest had made good their escape, the first was seen lying 
 dead. I was compelled, then, to finish off the other, both on 
 account of its being wounded and because it stood close to 
 the dead one, so that the men dare not go to the latter. They 
 proved to be bull and cow, but unfortunately neither fat. In 
 order that the men might have the full benefit of the meat, I 
 camped close by ; and they enjoyed themselves to their hearts' 
 content, rolling the carcases over and over up the gently 
 shelving shore to the water's edge, and there cutting them up. 
 When they had taken all they wanted, the onslaught of the 
 flocks of vultures, of two or three species, that had collected, 
 mingled with a good few marabouts, was a sight to see ; 
 nothing could be seen but a confused mass of dingy feathers 
 and flapping wings heaped up over the spot, with here and 
 there a grotesque marabout, tall and solemn, standing pompously 
 by with inflamed and distended throat. 
 
 As soon as I decided to camp, I had sent Juma on to 
 reconnoitre- ahead, for we had seen some yesterday's spoor
 
 RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 347 
 
 along our path, and I thought it Hkely there might be elephants 
 not far on, of which he would be sure to find traces if in the 
 neighbourhood. After an absence of only about two hours, he 
 returned with the news that he had actually seen the elephants 
 themselves, feeding and drinking in some tall water-grass 
 growing at the edge of the lake. In accordance with my 
 instructions he had avoided approaching ; but from a distance 
 had counted five, of which the nearest to him he could see to 
 
 Rolling Hippo to Shore. 
 
 " In order that the men might have the full benefit of the meat, I camped close bj- ; 
 and they enjoyed themselves to their hearts' content, rolling the carcases over and over 
 
 up the gently shelving shore to the water's edge, and there cutting them up." 
 (From a Photograph by the .\uthor.) 
 
 be a bull with good teeth, and there might be more beyond 
 hidden by the long grass, etc. Though I had stood the 
 walking well, so far, I felt that I had done enough for my 
 strength that day, what with the march and standing about 
 with my camera taking shots at the men rolling up the 
 dead hippos, so I decided to leave the elephants for the 
 morrow. 
 
 April 19 is headed "A day of humiliation" in m\' diary.
 
 348 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 I had decided to pack up and march with the whole of my 
 outfit, as usual when travelling, instead of merely taking my 
 gun-bearers, as when hunting with the intention of returning to 
 the same camp. My reason for this was, that, being still so 
 weak, it was important to camp as near as possible to the scene 
 of action ; and as it would be necessary in any case to follow 
 along the shore till either the elephants themselves or the 
 place where they had drunk should be found, I thought it 
 better to have all my belongings with me in the meantime, so 
 that I might have as short a walk as possible after the hunt. 
 We started at five o'clock, which is about the hour when the 
 first glimmerings of dawn become manifest in that latitude, and 
 in half an hour, while still dusk, saw an elephant looming black 
 in the water near the shore of the lake, ahead of us. I took 
 the caravan a little way back, and left them among some " suaki " 
 bushes with strict injunctions to keep quiet, while I went after 
 the elephant with Juma carrying the .303 and Squareface with 
 my camera. I never got a shot with the latter, and the one 
 I had with the rifle was a failure ! 
 
 The elephant — we could only see one, a big bull — had by 
 this time come up from the lake and was strolling slowly through 
 the open bush, a party of white egrets riding, in picturesque 
 contrast to the dark hulk, on his neck and head. When we 
 got to where he had entered a patch of thicker bush and 
 become hidden, we took his spoor. The sun had just risen and 
 was in our eyes ; it was my first attempt at elephant since my 
 mauling and consequent long illness, and I was not as cool as 
 I was wont to be, and as one ought to be to kill this game. 
 These preparatory excuses are leading up to the confession 
 that when we caught sight of the bull again, although the bush 
 was not very thick compared with what I had thought nothing 
 of before, I was in too much of a hurry to shoot, without 
 waiting for a good chance or getting nearly so close as I had 
 always been in the habit of approaching before firing. The 
 consequence of all this was, that, though I thought at first that
 
 XV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 349 
 
 he was fatally hit, the result proved that I must have made a 
 bad shot. 
 
 The elephant ran straight into a large patch of jungle 
 which extended along the shore, at this part, from just beyond 
 where he had been drinking. Now this was that peculiar kind 
 of dense cover already described in an account of a hunt in 
 the valley of the Seya, mainly composed of a plant which 
 grows in low, damp situations where the ground is salt, which 
 forms an impenetrable and almost solid mass of vegetation. I 
 was not in the humour to rush into thick cover, but by working 
 round the edge we were able to get along between the water 
 and the thicket. The jungle was not very high, but there was 
 not a tree of any kind to get a view from ; however, finding a 
 spot where there was a slight knoll or rise in the ground, I got 
 on to Juma's shoulders and was able to see over the cover, and 
 there my bull stood in the middle, the top of his back and head 
 showing above it. He was standing alone, but farther on I 
 could see the foreheads or back ridges of some twenty others, 
 perhaps more, standing in a clump, evidently on their guard, 
 facing outwards and frequently trying the wind for suspicious 
 odours with their uplifted trunks. I tried every way to get a 
 shot at the solitary bull, which I took to be the same I had 
 shot at, without actually crawling to right under it, but could 
 see nothing but the top of its forehead, even when I had entered 
 the jungle by a path running parallel with the shore and got 
 quite near it. 
 
 I felt ashamed of myself; it was ignominious to be beaten. 
 At last I mustered up courage, and, though I didn't like it — I 
 confess I did not like it a bit — crept through a narrow little 
 overgrown path, at right angles to that we had come along, to 
 within certainly considerably under ten paces of it. The wind 
 was right, and though it had nearly died away about sunrise, 
 was blowing pretty steadily now. I sat down in my tunnel, and 
 could see the elephant's hind feet and a little of the leg above, 
 but no other part of it. I determined, since nothing else was
 
 350 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AERICA chap. 
 
 possible, to try and disable it, and fired at the near hind leg 
 just above the foot joint. No sooner had I pulled the trigger 
 than, as by inspiration, with an activity I had hardly thought 
 myself capable of now, I whipped round, and, half scrambling, 
 half running through the tunnel, was in an instant tearing down 
 the path in the instinctive endeavour to get out of the way, in 
 case it should come. It was lucky I lost no time ; for it 
 turned and came straight for me, my shot having failed, 
 evidently, to break its leg. Looking over my shoulder as I 
 ran I saw the huge beast coming at a run right along the path 
 behind me. Weakened as I was from my accident — my 
 wound but just healed over, and my right side still sore and 
 stiff — I felt unable to run hard ; but I made the best effort I 
 was capable of, and turned sharp to the right along the track 
 we had come. As I did so, I heard that awful shrill, harsh 
 trumpet behind me, so suggestive of impending swift anni- 
 hilation, which seems to come down upon one as the doom 
 of irresistible vengeance ; and, throwing my gun to one side to 
 be out of harm's way, I ducked behind some brushwood, 
 stumbling as I did so, and hid there for a minute till I found I 
 was safe. The elephant had turned to the left when coming 
 into the main path and gone off in the direction of the herd. 
 My men turned up as I was picking up the rifle, and we went 
 back to hunt for my hat. 
 
 It appeared that on seeing what was happening from where 
 they had remained behind when I crawled through the tunnel, 
 they had been able to get out of sight into a [little opening in 
 the brake, which walled in the path on either side, while the 
 elephant passed in my wake. There was no blood on the spoor ; 
 but that is nothing remarkable with so small a bullet, and I still 
 hoped that we might eventually find the elephant — whether the 
 same or not — which I had first fired at. But though I sent back 
 more than once during the next few days in hopes the vultures 
 might show us the carcase, nothing was ever found. Of the rest 
 of the herd I could not get a view to give me any sort of a decent
 
 XV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 351 
 
 shot, from any point I could reach without either giving them 
 our wind or going right up to them. The latter alterna- 
 tive I was determined not to adopt again to-day ; my nerves 
 were not in the form for that now, nor do I think it would 
 have been anything but foolhardiness, in my then state, 
 to tempt the fates by any further attack on so difficult a 
 position. 
 
 Crestfallen, and not a little ashamed of my discomfiture, 
 I retraced my steps to where I had left the caravan. After 
 making a stupid hash, one is apt to try and console oneself 
 with excuses. Was not allowance to be made, I asked m}-self, 
 for the failure of my first attempt since rising, but the other 
 day, from a sick-bed, where for three solid months I had been 
 suffering from the wounds inflicted by one of these beasts ? 
 This was the hardest morning's work I had }'et attempted, 
 and I was of course somewhat exhausted by the time (not far 
 short of noon) I had established myself under a " suaki " bush 
 — swarming as usual with little black pesty ants, but a welcome 
 screen from the hot sun. A hot swill down and some food 
 did more than any attempts at self-justification to put me in 
 a better frame of mind, and the fact that I felt no ill effects 
 and was able to enjoy a hearty dinner of hippo heart in the 
 evening went far to restore confidence in my powers of 
 endurance. 
 
 On the following day I made only a short march, and 
 camped close to where I had buried the skull of the rhino cow 
 on our way up. It was untouched, and now quite clean. It 
 was too heavy for us to carry, so I had it tied in a tree to be 
 brought on by the main caravan. I was determined to take 
 it to the coast, no matter at what cost, thinking that it might 
 be of interest to the natural history authorities in England, 
 owing to what Von Hohnel had said about this small variety ; 
 and I took considerable trouble to get it transported. Those 
 only who know the difficulties of carriage in Central Africa, 
 where no wheeled vehicles can be used, can appreciate the
 
 352 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 difficulties of carrying such heavy and clumsy specimens so 
 far, especially through foodless country. It rode on top of 
 one of the pack-donkeys between its two loads of meal, where 
 it was carefully tied every morning, all the way to Mombasa, 
 and eventually reached this country safely. As, however, it 
 was not thought of any particular interest in London, while I 
 myself rather valued it, I did not think it worth while pre- 
 senting it to the British Museum, As already pointed out, 
 I am convinced that this rhinoceros is merely a small local 
 variety ; and, more than this, I am as positive as an unscientific 
 observer can be — who has merely studied animals in an 
 amateurish way in their native lands and is not qualified to 
 critically examine the portions of their tissues to be found in 
 museums — that there is only one species of rhinoceros in all 
 East Equatorial Africa. The skull of the particular individual 
 above alluded to is figured in conjunction with others. The 
 photograph also illustrates strikingly the various angles at 
 which the horns slope in different specimens. 
 
 It naturally occurs to one to inquire why the rhinoceros 
 of these parts should be, as it certainly is, so much smaller 
 than those of the same species farther south ? At first I was 
 inclined to attribute the difference to the greater sterility of this 
 arid region affording less nutritious food. But why, then, 
 should it nourish such enormous elephants ? They are not 
 an under-sized race ; on the contrary, I believe them to be 
 among the largest, both in bulk of body and weight of tusks, 
 of their kind to be found in Africa. Thus it would almost 
 appear as if the conditions affected these two animals in inverse 
 proportion. For, judging by the dimensions given by that 
 reliable observer and renowned hunter, Mr. Selous, the rhino- 
 ceros of South Africa (I refer, of course, only to Rhinoceros bi- 
 cornis) attains a greater size than even the largest of the equatorial 
 representatives of the species, while (on the same authority) 
 the elephants of the south are undoubtedly of smaller average 
 stature. Here is a problem which our scientific authorities,
 
 RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 353 
 
 through their knowledge of the structure of bones, may be in 
 a position to kindly elucidate for us. 
 
 Half an hour after starting the next morning, and a little 
 before sunrise, two elephants were seen by some of the men 
 behind, at the edge of the lake. We in front had not noticed 
 them ; perhaps they moved so as to become visible only after 
 we had passed the spot whence they could be seen ; at all 
 
 Rhinoceros Skulls and Horns. 
 I'he longest horn of the three measures 40 inches on front curve. 
 
 events, we had unluckily already reached a point from where 
 the wind blew dead towards them. I sent the "safari" back 
 a little way, and went towards them with my two gun-bearers. 
 The elephants — two big bulls — had by this time come up 
 from the water, and by the quick step they went off at along 
 the shore, in the direction we were going, I could tell that they 
 had got our wind and were in full retreat. We had some 
 distance to go, and long before we cut their spoor they had 
 
 2 A
 
 354 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 disappeared among some big thorn-trees which grew on the 
 banks of a dry water-course just beyond. Finding that, after 
 crossing the spruit, they had taken away from the lake and 
 were making off into the bush, I sent Squareface back to bring 
 on the men, pitch camp under the shady trees, and then go 
 on to see whether there were any signs of more elephants 
 on ahead, while I and Juma followed on the spoor of the two 
 bulls. 
 
 I was rather glad to have only Juma with me to-day, for 
 the other man sometimes rather flurried me, and as I never 
 took more than one gun now (the .303), a single gun-bearer was 
 sufficient. I was not feeling very hopeful, and as we trudged 
 along I thought what a contrast my present frame of mind 
 was with the confidence 1 should formerly have felt in a case 
 like this. We went up one long slope, and then, after topping 
 the rise, descended into a broad, shallow valley, in which were 
 some considerable patches of pretty dense and very thorny 
 scrub. I expected our game would stand in these, and we 
 had not yet got down to the flat when I caught sight of a 
 reddish - brown prominence visible over the similarly tinted 
 scrub. Had I not been on the look-out I might not have 
 noticed this, or mistaken it for an ant-heap ; but looking at it 
 carefully, I now made out that it was the ears and upper parts 
 of our two elephants, which were standing close together in the 
 middle of a thicket of stunted thorn bushes a good many acres 
 in extent. After reaching the level of the valley we could no 
 longer see them, and failed to find any possible way of approach 
 anywhere on the leeward side of the scrub. I was determined 
 not to enter this ; for, though dry and leafless and consequently 
 not difficult to see through for a short distance, the bushes of 
 which it was composed were of a kind armed with such villain- 
 ous hooked thorns that to move, except with the greatest 
 deliberation and care, would be impossible, inside. 
 
 I imparted to Juma that my fixed resolve was to hunt " poli- 
 poli " to-day — that is, cautiously and gently — and he entirely
 
 XV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 355 
 
 concurred in the desirability of such procedure. We then 
 retired to one of the chimney-like ant-heaps so common here, 
 standing a little back from the edge of the thick scrub, from the 
 shoulder of which we were able to observe the elephants, and 
 waited. As they had not been very much alarmed, and were 
 quite unconscious of our presence, I hoped they might move by 
 and by into a more favourable position. Soon they began to 
 move about, and I could see that one was considerably larger 
 than the other ; but both seemed, from the glimpses we got, to 
 have equally good, though not exceptionally massive, tusks. 
 
 At last, after moving backwards and forwards several times 
 inside their retreat and exercising our patience a good deal, 
 they approached the limit of the brake on our side, and finally 
 came just outside and walked along skirting its edge. I 
 refrained from shooting while they moved, but got near and 
 followed along parallel with them, until, before they had gone 
 far, my patience was rewarded by a good chance. They stood ; 
 and I got up to the base of an ant-heap from whence 1 could get 
 a good clear shot. I gave the larger a bullet in the centre of the 
 right shoulder, and as they were making off I disabled his 
 mate with a shot into his hip, crippling him. The first ran 
 back to near their original position, and stood for a minute ; 
 but while we looked, it started to run full speed in our direc- 
 tion, and suddenly fell over, in mid career, rolling on to its 
 back with its feet kicking up into the air. Even then, as we 
 were congratulating each other, it got up again and stood. 
 What had happened was undoubtedly (I have seen the same 
 thing in other cases) that my shot had fractured the bone high 
 up ; so that, though it did not break at once, it caused the 
 limb to snap when it was running, thus bringing about its 
 sudden collapse. Both were now at my mercy, and I was not 
 long in giving them their quietus. The first probably needed 
 none, but the .303 bullet makes such a tiny wound that it takes 
 some time to kill a big bull, even though in a mortal spot. 
 They both had fine tusks, which I estimated to be a full load
 
 356 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 apiece ; those of the smaller bull were rather the thicker, the 
 length averaging about the same.^ 
 
 Juma and I were in great glee at our success; and I was 
 kept from feeling fagged, on the way back to camp with our 
 two tails, by the elation of a thoroughly satisfactory hunt. I 
 was especially glad that no refugees were left to scare any 
 elephants there might be ahead. Ours was a particularly 
 pleasant camping-place, too, to-day ; so that I was able to 
 enjoy in comfort the rest which the feeling of having done a 
 good day's work makes so delightful. 
 
 In the big thorn-tree under which my tent was pitched was 
 a goose's nest. I had noticed the goose in it on our way after 
 the elephants ; but now, on my return, I saw a vulture in 
 possession. I suspected what this meant, and, on sending a 
 man up to inspect the nest, the explanation proved to be as I 
 had feared. The vulture had breakfasted on the tgg — there 
 was but one — of the goose, which our camping here had scared 
 from the protection of its home. Whether the nest was made 
 by the goose itself, or was an old one of some other bird — 
 vulture or eagle — which it had made use of, I am not sure, but 
 the empty shell was undoubtedly that of a goose's o.^^. This 
 nest was in the fork of a big bough high up from the ground. 
 A few days later I came across another goose's nest, on which 
 also the bird was sitting until I disturbed it. This one was on 
 the bushy top of a low, flat-crowned thorn-tree, in such a 
 position that we could not get at it, and just too high for me to 
 see into from Juma's shoulders ; but I should say that it, at any 
 rate, was in all probability built by the goose itself Farther 
 southward, though, along the lake, trees are scarce, while 
 Egyptian geese are in many parts very numerous, so it seems 
 hardly likely that they can all nest in trees. I suppose they 
 must keep guard over their eggs constantly from the time 
 
 1 These teeth, when got out, weighed 86 lbs. and 835 lbs. ; and 84 lbs. and 81 lbs. 
 It is curious — and it has happened three times in ni)- experience — that bulls are ofterk 
 found in pairs whose teeth weigh almost alike.
 
 XV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 357 
 
 they are laid, to preserve them from the rapacity of the 
 vultures. 
 
 The distance to our elephants not being great, I sent Juma 
 back with another man in the afternoon to get me some fat and 
 a piece of the heart of one. I told him I thought the smaller 
 of the two was the fatter ; but he found it to be in poor con- 
 dition, while the big one was fat. I doubt if any one can tell, 
 without opening it, whether an elephant is fat or not ; as a 
 matter of fact they never look so externally. 
 
 Squareface had brought word that he had found the spoor 
 of an odd bull or two near one of our former camping-places, 
 some distance on, and also that the herd, at which I had so 
 bungled my chance, had drunk near here during the previous 
 night. Knowing him to be an indifferent judge of spoor, I did 
 not put much faith in the latter piece of information ; but I 
 decided, at any rate, not to move camp again until I had made 
 sure that we were leaving no elephants in the immediate 
 vicinity. So, as I did not feel much the worse in the morning 
 for what had been a rather hard day's work for me nowadays, 
 I started off about 5.30 with Juma and Smiler to look for fresh 
 spoor ahead, sending Squareface in the opposite direction on a 
 similar errand. We went nearly to our next camping-place, 
 but found no spoor, even of the day before, barring that of the 
 two bulls already accounted for ; so I came back to camp early, 
 feeling that, failing any news of elephants near, I needed some 
 rest to-day. As Squareface, who did not return till about 
 I o'clock, reported that our herd had gone right back to its 
 former haunts, I spent the rest of the day quietly in camp. 
 Having already sent instructions to Abdulla to follow with the 
 caravan, I decided not to move back in the direction of Reshiat 
 again, but to go on to the camp where I had arranged to wait 
 for him, and hope to pick up another bull in that neighbour- 
 hood, so as to be ready to continue our journey when my 
 people overtook me. 
 
 During this last night here there were noises and reports
 
 3S8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 as of snapping trees, and splashing in the edge of the lake ; so 
 in the morning, after packing up, I sent my gun-bearers along 
 the shore to see if there were any fresh elephant tracks. 
 There were no signs of such, though, so I concluded it must 
 have been hippos disturbing my rest. In consequence of this 
 delay we did not get off till rather later than usual, but it was 
 not a long march to where I intended camping ; and when 
 within a mile or so of the place, we crossed the spoor of three 
 elephants, a little distance apart, going down to the water, two 
 being large bulls, the third a cow. 
 
 I had succeeded so well on my last hunt, attended by 
 Juma only, that I determined to pursue the same tactics 
 to-day, in the hope that our luck might continue ; so Square- 
 face was given command of the " safari," with orders to form 
 camp at the spot agreed upon and make all snug against my 
 return. We found, on taking up the spoor, that the elephants, 
 after drinking, had returned from the lake and made away 
 inland. The tracks seemed quite fresh ; and, after following 
 them a short way, we came to where the elephants had stood 
 and dusted themselves at the foot of an ant-heap. Looking 
 beyond, over pretty open country, we caught sight of them, 
 far ahead, on the top of a low, open ridge, apparently feeding. 
 There were four of them, standing out like huge sphinxes on 
 the sky-line. The wind was then blowing from us to them, 
 so we started to make a long circuit, in order to get round 
 to leeward of them, though at present they were too far off 
 to scent us ; but soon it became shifty, and sometimes died 
 away, and we stopped to see which way it would settle down 
 to blow from. After a while it came up — in gusts first, but 
 finally as a good, stiff, steady breeze — from the usual south- 
 east quarter. This was exactly favourable for us, so we went 
 on, and got within two or three hundred yards without any 
 difficulty or risk of alarming our game, and waited again to 
 reconnoitre. 
 
 Up to this point there had been sufficient thin bush to
 
 XV RETLTRX TO LAKE RUDOLPH 359 
 
 screen our approach, quite enough to obviate any risk of our 
 being seen at that distance by such short-sighted creatures. 
 I had never before, during all my elephant-hunting in Central 
 Africa, seen any in such open ground ; and it was the first 
 occasion in my experience when a horse might have been 
 used. The elephants were now standing still, nearly in a row, 
 one behind the other, but at right angles to us. I surveyed 
 them through my glasses. The three bulls were all big 
 fellows, with fine tusks. Those of the first were long and 
 white ; the second, which had a very old look about the face, 
 seemed to have even longer tusks, though not so white ; the 
 third was the cow, with insignificant ivory ; while the fourth's 
 teeth appeared the thickest of all, though shorter than the 
 others. 
 
 The ground between us and them was so open and devoid 
 of anything to cover one's approach, beyond a few very scragg)-, 
 thin, and low bits of stunted bushes, that I thought we could 
 not get within easy killing range, and hoped they would move 
 on to more favourable ground. But as, after waiting some 
 time, they still remained stationary, I decided to try and get 
 near, lest the wind should fail or change ; for the weather 
 looked unsettled. Taking advantage of a slight hollow, and 
 crouching low, I succeeded, by using the greatest caution, in 
 reaching successfully a little screen of bare, semi-transparent 
 sprays, whence nearer approach seemed impossible unobserved. 
 What I could see now of the tusks of the second bull increased 
 my ambition to possess them. Partly veiled though they were 
 by a thin shrub just in front of them, I could trace the outline 
 of the one nearest me, and it seemed to reach the ground ! 
 But after trying to get a good aim from this point I felt 
 dissatisfied, not wishing to wound and lose, so crawled on 
 hands and knees, in spite of tiny thorns innumerable, to 
 within perhaps fifty yards. Thence I got a good view ; and, 
 having still avoided detection by keeping close to the ground, 
 while availing myself as much as possible of such sticks and
 
 36o ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 tufts of grass as served, the chance of discovery, as long as I 
 kept still, and the wind held true, was past. The old veteran, 
 on whom I had set my heart, now offered a good mark, broad- 
 side on, but slightly turned towards me. Taking steady aim, 
 I gave him a shot right through the shoulder. He ran but a 
 little way, getting another bullet as he retreated, and then came 
 down, never to rise again. 
 
 This was very satisfactory. The others, being unhurt, and 
 not knowing what was up, stood again just beyond his prostrate 
 hulk, beside some good-sized leafy suaki bushes. I risked the 
 fallen bull getting up again — a not unlikely chance — and crept 
 up under cover of his carcase. Luck was with me : the very 
 one I wanted — that, namely, which I believed to be the second 
 best — moved out from the trees, just sufficiently to give me my 
 opportunity. As he stood sideways, I recognised him at once 
 to be the one which had stood foremost, when I had first taken 
 stock of them, and he also got a fatal wound ; but I could not 
 give him another as he decamped, owing to the rifle getting on 
 to half-cock again — as is its aggravating wont at inconvenient 
 moments, though I have never succeeded in making it do it in 
 cold blood. However, I had hardly got it to rights before we 
 saw him fall, heels in air, amidst a cloud of dust, in a little, 
 bushy hollow just beyond. He got on to his legs again, but 
 was evidently done, and Juma wanted to follow up the other 
 two at once ; but I said no, let us stick to our motto of 
 " poli-poli," and see these two safe first. He soon lay low, 
 though, for the last time, and we went on after the remaining 
 two, of which there was only one left worth shooting. 
 
 Taking their spoor over another slight rise, we found they 
 had entered a shallow valley with some thickish patches of 
 bush, but of no very great extent. I did not feel keen about 
 following into thick cover ; however, we kept on for a while, 
 and, having ascertained which direction they had taken, I went 
 up on to the low ridge skirting the valley to look over it. I 
 soon made out an ear in a thick patch under a big " suaki," but.
 
 XV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 361 
 
 even as we looked, they moved on again. Going along parallel 
 with the valley, we by and by caught sight of them again, 
 from one of the little knolls which commanded a view, standing 
 once more in a similar position under another suaki tree. They 
 had chosen the centre of a particularly thick part of the scrub, 
 with tall, close-growing, leafy bushes all around. It was not 
 far from open ground on the farther side, but I could see 
 from my point of vantage that it would not be possible to get 
 a shot without crawling close up. Compared with cover I 
 used formerly to thread unhesitatingly, this was not bad, the 
 bushes composing it not being of a thorny nature. But now 
 " my hearts were two " — as the Zulus would say. One raised 
 objections ; but the other — animated by the eager spirit of the 
 hunter, still strong within me — would not let me off. I 
 finally went through to the other side of the valley, farther 
 back, and entered the bush again opposite the place I had 
 marked. 
 
 On getting near, my old form reasserted itself, and my 
 interest became keenly concentrated on the exciting pursuit. 
 The bush inside was not so bad as it had appeared from 
 without. My luck still held. I caught sight of the bull 
 through openings in the scrub ; but from the first spot whence 
 I tried to get a shot I could not obtain a clear enough view 
 to satisfy me. I was determined not to fire any flurried, 
 uncertain, or bungling shots to-day, so crept nearer till I could 
 get an unimpeded view of the big brute's left shoulder, into 
 the middle of which I sent, at close quarters, one of my tiny, 
 slate-pencil bullets. I got in a second from behind as he 
 turned, and in a few seconds we heard him fall with a crash. 
 Going cautiously forward I made out the side of his great belly 
 sticking up as he lay. He got up again though, and after 
 falling a second time was on his legs once more ; so, though I 
 knew it was only the smallness of the bullet that made him — 
 such a huge beast — so long in dying, I thought it kinder to 
 hasten his end.
 
 362 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chai-. 
 
 I did not stay long admiring this last prize after Juma had 
 cut off his tail. He had fine tusks, of fair length and thick ; 
 the thicker of the two measured i foot 8^ inches in circum- 
 ference just outside the lip. Then we went back to the 
 first two, which we had hardly glanced at yet. They 
 proved about as I had judged. The one with the whitest 
 ivory (the second killed) had teeth hardly as thick as the last, 
 but about on a par otherwise. The old fellow had very long 
 tusks, though slightly thinner than the others, the right a good 
 deal worn down, but his left the longest I had ever shot.^ He 
 had no hair on his tail : evidently a patriarch. Then I was 
 not sorry to make for camp — luckily not very far off — for I 
 was tired and sore, and the sun was extremely hot. I felt 
 very pleased with my morning's work. I had accomplished 
 it in what I considered a workmanlike manner ; not wasting 
 many cartridges nor letting my game go far after being struck, 
 and, above all, wounding none that escaped. The fourth 
 elephant I had no desire to harm. 
 
 I had now killed five more bull elephants of the largest size, 
 whose ten heavy tusks would require as many of my best 
 porters to carry them — a good many more than I had " empty 
 hands," as the loads were at present arranged. It would there- 
 fore require a good deal of scheming and contriving to enable 
 us to take these ; and to take them I was determined. The 
 problem how to make two dozen porters carry thirty loads 
 would obviously have defied my mathematics, had it not been 
 for the fortunate circumstance that I had a number of spare 
 donkeys. Even thus it was not so simple as it may seem ; 
 for donkeys can only carry suitable loads and cannot possibly 
 bear large tusks ; moreover, pads, etc., are needed. However, 
 the difficulties were eventually overcome, so as to leave sufficient 
 
 ^ This tusk weighed 1175 lbs., and only lost i^ lbs. in drying. Its present weight is 
 thus 116 lbs. It measures exactly 9 feet. Its fellow weighed, when got out, 109 lbs. 
 Those of the other two weighed 117 lbs. and 104 lbs. ; and 96 lbs. and 95^ lbs. An 
 outline of the first is shown, together with others of my finest tusks, in the drawing, 
 p. 422.
 
 RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 
 
 
 men to carry all the heavy ivory, though in the end it resulted 
 in a box of cartridges having to be buried under a heap of 
 stones. But as these were encased in lead, I look forward to 
 finding them still in good order on my next trip ; and I am 
 quite sure no one else will ever find them. 
 
 In order to provide material for making extra " sogis " (a 
 sort of pliable panniers), I went out the next day to endeavour 
 to procure some skins. When we passed here, outward bound, 
 
 '%>«*> 
 
 Oryx Antelope {Oryx beisa). 
 
 (From a Pliotograph by the Author.) 
 
 game swarmed ; but owing to the veldt being now very dry, 
 while farther back there was young grass, it had shifted its 
 range, so that there was hardly any in the neighbourhood at 
 this time. However, I managed to get what I wanted. A 
 very short way from camp I shot a single oryx bull, which 
 proved to be the finest specimen I had ever bagged. The horns 
 measure 36 inches and 36^ inches, which for this species of 
 oryx is very good, especially in a male. But the hide of an 
 old bull is too thick to make a good " sogi " ; so, after calling 
 men to skin and carry in the meat, I went on in hopes of
 
 364 ELEPHANT- HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 getting something more suitable. Farther on I saw four 
 young " topi " bulls, grazing in the open. Luckily, though, 
 there was some thin bush within shot of them on the leeward 
 side ; and by making a detour I was able to stalk them 
 successfully, and before they had made up their minds definitely 
 which was the safe direction to finally run away in, I had three 
 of them down within less than fifty yards of each other. The 
 fourth I let away as not wanted. 
 
 I had three men with me, so with one working at each 
 buck the skins were soon removed and sent back to camp by 
 one of them, while I went round by the first of my elephants 
 of yesterday in the hopes of getting a shot with my camera, 
 which I had brought for the purpose, at vultures and marabouts 
 at work on the carcase. However, they had not yet been able 
 to effect an entrance through the hide, and so were only 
 soaring about and waiting for decay, beasts of prey, or man 
 to enable them to begin their feast. Great numbers of them 
 had been attracted to the vicinity, though, and the display 
 of meat drew many round our camp, as well as flocks of 
 crows and several kites. The kites were constantly swooping 
 down upon scraps, and the crows caused my men much 
 annoyance by their audacity in making raids on the garlands 
 of biltong spread about to dry. 
 
 These last afforded me a good deal of amusement by their 
 droll ways. Like all crows, there is a comical seriousness 
 about their actions most diverting to study. One, bolder 
 than the rest, would advance by alternate hops and steps to 
 within an inch or two of a piece of meat ; make a feint ; look 
 about knowingly ; open his wings in false alarm ; drop again 
 in front of the alluring morsel, and finally stretch out his neck 
 and seize it with a sudden effort of resolution. Then the 
 others, who had been watching this adv^enturous individual 
 from close by, would pounce down eagerly, encouraged by his 
 success, and a regular scramble would ensue, until a stick 
 hurled among them by the indignant owner of the meat
 
 XV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 365 
 
 would send all flapping off to wait a i^w yards away till 
 another volunteer should summon up courage to renew the 
 attempt.^ 
 
 On the 26th I sent for the tusks of the first two bulls. 
 They had been shot five days, and I knew that the ivory would 
 come out easily ; and as the caravan ought to arrive in a 
 day or two, I wanted to get all together in readiness. For 
 that reason it was necessary to extract the teeth of the other 
 three on the following day, so that there might be no needless 
 delay later. Being fresher, and so large, these took some 
 chopping to get out ; but they were all brought in in triumph, 
 and when laid out side by side at the foot of the tree in front 
 of my tent these ten magnificent teeth made a fine show. 
 Abdulla and his party had only heard of the bagging of the 
 first two elephants ; so when the " safari " came in early on 
 the 28th, the row of splendid ivory caused quite an excitement, 
 and they were examined and lifted with eager interest, while 
 Abdulla himself was in great glee. 
 
 I should explain that all the best porters take a pride 
 in carrying the biggest ivory, and it is a point of honour with 
 all the leading ones to have a heavy tusk apiece assigned to 
 them, these always being given precedence at the head of 
 the caravan. Thus if one of the best men was not entrusted 
 with such a burden he would consider himself slighted. In 
 this way my " kilangozi " or leading porter (a most important 
 personage^) had immediately taken possession of the heaviest of 
 
 ' The proper way to cure meat as ' ' biltong " is to hang it in the shade. It then dries by 
 the action of the wind, if the weather be suitable, while remaining sweet. Made of good, 
 tender meat, it is first-rate, when successfully cured, either roasted crisp on the embers or 
 pounded, moistened and fried, or may even be eaten raw. Swahilis, however, like more 
 tasty food (as any one may tell who has passed near a shop where the dried fish they 
 particularly affect is exposed for sale) ; and they designedly spread their strips of meat 
 on the ground in the fierce sun. Treated thus it acquires a relish which was rather a 
 trial to me when the porters carrying my box or furniture had tied any, during the march, 
 on top of their loads. 
 
 "^ Much depends on the "kilangozi," and it is policy to keep liini in good humour. 
 Mine I always conciliated by conferring little favours — such as a small special present ot 
 meat when it was scarce, or an occasional bit of calico (such trifles are highly prized in
 
 366 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the Bumi tusks as his right ; while one of the strongest among 
 those who were accustomed to follow him in the van had been 
 somewhat aggrieved at not being allotted one from the first. 
 I had told him then that I hoped a tusk worthy of him would 
 yet be found, and so it was with considerable satisfaction that 
 I now conferred the coveted favour upon him by pointing to 
 the biggest of all — a few pounds heavier even than the yellow 
 one carried by the " kilangozi " — as his burden, amid general 
 laughter. 
 
 I think this shows what nonsense it is to talk of the 
 cruelty of using men as beasts of burden, and the absurdity of 
 restricting, by vexatious regulations, the weight of a porter's 
 load to fifty or sixty pounds or some such ridiculous limit. 
 Here were my men competing eagerly with each other for 
 my permission to shoulder tusks weighing about a hundred- 
 weight apiece, and the disappointed ones asking me in injured 
 tones where was their " pembe " (horn). This, knowing that 
 there was a journey of some seven hundred miles before us, 
 the greater part through pathless tracts, over rugged hills 
 strewn with sharp rocks, among thorny scrub and thick grass, 
 often for long stretches with no water, and all under the fierce 
 heat of the equator. They get no extra pay for carrying these 
 heavy tusks ; and the only little privilege they enjoy is never 
 being asked to carry their own rations, as the others have to 
 sometimes for several days, and perhaps getting the preference 
 in the matter of meat. Their chief reward, to which they look 
 forward during the whole long journey, is the proud moment 
 when they enter Mombasa, decked out gaily with flowing red 
 cloths (their customary perquisite), and march through the 
 streets with their glistening white burdens, showing off before 
 the admiring crowds. Men who are not able, without any 
 strain or inconvenience, to carry a far heavier burden than 
 
 the " bara"). He has much to do with regulating the pace of the caravan, and has great 
 influence with the other porters ; so that keeping him contented and cheerful tends to 
 make things work smoothly and counteract any possible friction.
 
 XV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 367 
 
 the authorised Government load are not, in my opinion, worth 
 their " posho " (ration) as porters.^ 
 
 That it is no hardship to good ones to do so, with the 
 addition of gun, cartridge-belt, and sometimes several days' 
 rations, as well as their own odds and ends, is proved by what 
 I have stated above, and also by the fact that I had mostly 
 the same men on the second expedition who had been with 
 me before. The hardship will be rather when they lose their 
 occupation ; for they engage in it voluntarily, in preference to 
 other work, and I had several mechanics in my caravan — a 
 stone mason, a cobbler, etc. — who preferred the free life of a 
 caravan porter to working at their trades. 
 
 That porters are sometimes cruelly used by unprincipled 
 Europeans when beyond the influence of public opinion is true 
 enough, but such employers will not get Swahilis to engage 
 with them a second time nowadays ; and injustice and harsh 
 treatment often bring their own retribution by causing the 
 failure of the expedition. For my part, I do not believe in 
 excessive strictness. I find I can always get more out of men 
 by treating them with consideration, and it is much pleasanter 
 when a kindly feeling exists. Of course if any one is so 
 unfortunate as to get a bad lot of men, severity may be 
 necessary ; but mine never gave me any trouble, and I don't 
 believe there are any Africans that will follow one so faithfully 
 and patiently into remote regions as these Swahilis, or Zanzi- 
 baris, or whatever you may please to call the mixed lot of men 
 who constitute the regular caravan porters one gets in East 
 Africa. As to punishments, I rarely have occasion to inflict 
 any ; and flogging I never resort to except in the most ex- 
 treme cases, such as looting from natives or grossly insulting 
 one's headman, proved by ample evidence. A punishment for 
 minor offences I found most suitable was adding some article 
 
 ' Of course with a heavily -loaded caravan it is necessary to travel slowly. If a 
 cjuicker pace and longer marches are desired, the loads must be reduced by nearly one- 
 half.
 
 368 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chai-. 
 
 to the load. This makes the culprit do useful work — for there 
 is seldom a time when something is not in want of means of 
 transport, such as a newl\--acquired specimen, for example — 
 and the fact of its having been added as a penalty has a great 
 effect upon him, though the actual weight may not make an}' 
 material difference. 
 
 A rule I never depart from, and to which I attach the 
 greatest importance in dealing with Africans, is to allow one's 
 men free access to oneself to lay their grievances before their 
 master. If the complaints are frivolous, I point out to grumblers 
 their groundlessness ; it relieves their feelings to have had their 
 say, and thus a little " shauri " often removes discontent. 
 Above all, never allow a headman to punish nor give him 
 uncontrolled sway over the men ; such a course surely leads 
 to favouritism and cruelt\-, however good a man he may be. 
 
 I felt so sure that the caravan would come in that^ day 
 that I went out early on the morning of 28th April on purpose 
 to get some meat for the men. Those who had been with me 
 here had always had more than they could eat, but the others 
 could get none while I was away, and, as they were now carry- 
 ing heavy loads, deserved some. I shot two " topi," and the 
 " safari " came in all safe and sound just as I got back. As 
 it was yet early, we were that day able to get completed all 
 the additional preparations and disposals which the newly- 
 acquired ivory rendered necessary, and everything ready for start- 
 ing in earnest with the whole outfit, on our return journey, the 
 following morning. Every one was in high spirits, not excepting 
 myself, for I had every reason to feel thankful for my recovery 
 and for the many fortunate circumstances which had combined 
 to make things smooth for me and to render my expedition 
 far from an absolute failure, in spite of my serious accident 
 and consequent loss of three months and upsetting of my plans. 
 Men are always pleased at the prospect of returning to the 
 coast after a long trip ; and happily we had an ample suppl)' 
 of food to see us through, an}'\vay to El Bogoi, so that I saw
 
 XV RETURN TO LAKE RUDOLPH 369 
 
 no cause for anxiety ; in fact, everything seemed favourable 
 once more. The only thing I dreaded was that the heavy 
 rains, which according to generally received notions were now 
 overdue, might give us trouble and impede our progress. As 
 a matter of fact, though, we never experienced anything that 
 could be called a wet season at all that year. 
 
 2 B
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 EN ROUTE FOR EL BOGOI 
 
 Easy stages — Astir betimes — A regretful shot — Diversity of zebra — A blessing in 
 disguise — A salutary lesson — Implementing a promise — A spider and its prey — 
 A gladdening feast — Lacking a handy camera — A curious coincidence — El 
 Molo mode of fishing — -Stalking zebra — Departure from Lake Rudolph — Mount 
 Nyiro — A dispensation of Providence — A scene of carnage — El Bogoi camp — 
 Hearty greetings — A test of affection — Disappointed hopes. 
 
 The 29th of April saw us once more fairly on the march 
 southward. For the first week or so it was necessary to travel 
 by very short stages, till the men should get accustomed to 
 their new loads. Tusks are carried on the shoulder, and not 
 on the head as other articles are. The latter part can be 
 protected by a long cloth, wrapped round and round so as to 
 stand up from the top of the head and form a thick pad, 
 hollow in the middle, for the load to rest on ; but over the 
 shoulders only a loose cloth, like a mantle, is worn as a pro- 
 tection to the skin. Hence it is only gradually that the 
 porters' shoulders become hardened to bearing such great 
 weights ; and in the meantime one must go easy with them. 
 When thoroughly accustomed to them, my men would often 
 march for four hours on end before ever putting their loads 
 down to rest. It is a rather pretty sight to see a string of 
 men, each with a big white tusk on his shoulder glistening in 
 the early morning sun, marching along in single file, all carrying 
 on the same side ; and then, when they want to change over, 
 all with one accord — the word having been passed along —
 
 CHAP. XVI EN ROUTE FOR EL BO GO I 371 
 
 swinging the long logs of ivory round behind their backs on to 
 the other shoulder. 
 
 Fortunately, at this time there was a morning moon (that 
 is, it was on the wane), so that, knowing our way now, we 
 could start as early as we liked ; and with a " heavy safari " 
 nothing is so important as to get as much of the march as 
 possible in the cool of the morning. When the sun gets high 
 overhead, every quarter of an hour tires the men more than 
 an extra hour before sunrise. So I used to get the ivory 
 party off by 4.30 or even 4 A.M., as long as the moon lasted. 
 This meant being up by 3, or soon after, m3'self, as the 
 donkeys had to be loaded (a longish process), and I did not 
 like to leave them far behind. 
 
 On the second morning I was compelled (most regretfully) 
 to shoot a rhino ; I say regretfully, because it was early in 
 the morning, and we could not afford to waste time over it, 
 nor was it desirable to let the men pile meat on top of their 
 heavy loads with the march before them. So I would gladly 
 have left them alone (there were two), had they not come 
 blundering towards the caravan. No one would have been 
 hurt, in all probability, had I allowed them to come on ; but 
 the loads would all have been chucked down and very likely 
 something broken. Besides, it damages ivory to throw it 
 down on stones or even hard ground, and I have had tusks 
 splintered and chipped so through a " faro " scare. I therefore 
 felt constrained to administer a .303 bullet to the leading one, 
 which turned them both and brought the one which had 
 received it to the ground in a few strides, and, after a squeal 
 or two, to its last breath. It was a young cow, adult, but 
 very small, and after examining and measuring it I had to 
 leave it — with much sorrow for having been driven reluctantly 
 to cause its useless death — to the vultures and hyenas. 
 
 My custom was not to attempt to shoot anything during 
 the march ; to do so would delay us, and we had quite 
 enough to carry already. But I did my best to procure meat
 
 372 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 for the caravan, and during this part of the journey — that is, 
 before we had reached the rugged country at the south end 
 of Bassu — kept up the supply pretty abundantly, shooting 
 something about every other day. Starting so early and 
 making only short marches, there was plenty of time to hunt 
 after camp had been pitched. In this way zebra of both 
 kinds, oryx, etc., were shot, an odd hippo, and once a solitary 
 cow buffalo (an animal I had not set eyes on for years, and 
 which quite reminded me of old times). 
 
 Whether the zebra of the small species are absolutely 
 identical with those already mentioned as occurring in the 
 neighbourhood of the Lorogi Mountains, it is impossible to 
 be certain without seeing them side by side ; but I incline to 
 believe that those in this locality, at any rate, may be found 
 to differ somewhat from the variety described as Equus grantii 
 by ]\Ir. de Winton. I noted of one obtained in this part 
 that " the black stripes are wide and the white narrow, 
 particularly on the neck, and along the back are spots or 
 blotches instead of distinct stripes." But it appears to me 
 that all the varieties of this zebra, such as Chapman's, Grant's, 
 etc., are but local forms of Burchell's, with which they are 
 all specifically identical, though differing slightly as to details 
 of colour and markings.^ In all their general characteristics, 
 whether of form, appearance, habits, paces, or voice, they are 
 indistinguishable, while equally separated from the totally 
 distinct Grevy's zebra by a wide gulf 
 
 I am not partial to zebra meat myself, but the tongue is 
 good, and rissoles made of the liver (always supposing the 
 animal to be young and in good condition) are not to be 
 despised. Generally, though, I prefer venison ; but my first 
 object always being quantity, for the sake of my hungry 
 porters, I commonly neglected gazelles and devoted my 
 
 1 In a foetal skin which I have obtained a little north of the Tana, faint "shadow 
 stripes" are apparent between the dark bands on the thighs, though these clearly-defined 
 dark bands continue right down to the hoofs.
 
 XVI EN ROUTE FOR EL BOGOI 373 
 
 attention to the larger animals first. Moreover, the Grant's 
 gazelle were not in good condition at this time, and one 
 young specimen I shot was rendered unfit for food by large 
 dark-coloured warble grubs, of which its back was full just 
 below the skin. 
 
 Early on 6th May the extreme south-east point of the ba}- 
 of Lalia was reached, whence our route struck inland for 
 several marches. I felt some uneasiness about the water- 
 supply when the lake should be no longer within reach, for 
 the weather had been so excessively dry of late that the 
 country was more burnt up than ever. I therefore took the 
 precaution to send messengers to ascertain whether any was 
 to be found at the camping-places between. On their return, 
 the middle of the next day, we learnt that the pools half- 
 way across the isthmus still contained sufficient for our needs, 
 but at the intermediate camp it was all dried up. This would 
 make the stages very long, and I was not without anxiety 
 about the severe marches over heavy ground that would 
 have to be undertaken in face of these rather trying condi- 
 tions, the heat being intense. However, it had to be faced ; 
 but, just before we should have started, what was very nearly 
 resulting in a catastrophe, but which in the event proved the 
 best thing that could have happened, occurred, in the shape 
 of a sudden flood. 
 
 About this part many very broad water-courses enter the 
 lake ; indeed, sometimes one walks for considerable distances 
 through what seems one broad, shallow river-bed, though all 
 as dry as any bone. It is in such situations that trees are 
 found, and on this occasion, as on many others, we had camped 
 in one. A storm came on to-day, and must have been far 
 heavier up the course of our sand river, for in the midst of 
 the shower a wide stream of muddy water came rushing down 
 upon the camp, and in a twinkling tent, loads, and all were 
 flooded. Luckily the water did not rise much above aiikle 
 deep, but at the time things looked serious. It was not easy
 
 374 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 even to find a safe spot to retreat to, but we managed to get 
 our dripping belongings carried to a slight elevation — a sort 
 of bank of gravel — over which, luckily, the inundation did not 
 rise, all hands working with a will. It was not a cheerful 
 sight to see the water surging around the stack of precious 
 food (the ivory could not be hurt) and through my tent, while 
 our belongings were hastily transported anyhow in the pouring 
 rain. However, the damage proved less than at first sight 
 appeared ; only a few loads of meal were soaked, and though 
 the mishap caused us a day's delay and a good deal of trouble 
 to dry everything, no food was really spoilt. As often happens, 
 what at first threatened to be a calamity was in reality a most 
 fortunate occurrence for us ; even the flood turned out a blessing, 
 for we now had an abundance of water where thirst had menaced 
 us. Thus the favourite Swahili formula when travelling — 
 " Omba Muungu " (Beg of God) — seems, on occasion, something 
 more than a mere form of words. 
 
 As showing how porters appreciate one's efforts to get 
 meat for them, and prize such an addition to their regular 
 food ration when obtainable, I may mention a little incident 
 that occurred about this time. I had been rather annoyed 
 about something that had been going on in the caravan, and 
 had purposely abstained from shooting any game for a day or 
 two in consequence. The men knew the reason, and the 
 pressure thus brought quietly to bear had a salutary effect. 
 One evening, after I had lain down, and while having my last 
 smoke, Abdulla came into my tent, and after squatting down 
 and turning his head about (to the accompaniment of sundry 
 little preliminary coughs) in his usual nervous manner when he 
 had anything in the nature of a favour to ask — a sort of bashful 
 smile on his face, lit up by the flickering fire outside, — said 
 that the men were bemoaning the meat famine, and had asked 
 him to express their regret for having caused me annoyance, 
 and to beg that I would hunt for them again. It being against 
 my will to deny them, I let him please them by a promise to
 
 EN ROUTE FOR EL BO GO I 375 
 
 try and shoot something on the morrow. This produced quite 
 a cheer and chorus of thanks, and the camp, which had been 
 unusually hushed, was now cheery again with their talking. 
 This was a relief to me, as I always like to see the men happy. 
 At the same time it was as well to let them be reminded that 
 I was incurring a good deal of fatigue, which in the weak state 
 of my health was no small strain upon my strength, for their 
 benefit, in my desire to add a liberal supply of meat to the 
 customary ration of grain to which they were entitled, and 
 which is all they would get in most caravans. 
 
 After this I felt it to be a point of honour to kill something 
 the next day, which happened to be the one on which we 
 reached the lake again, and once more camped on its now 
 familiar shores. The country seemied to have little game in 
 it, but after making a round I espied with my glasses an oryx 
 grazing near the shore, and on getting nearer saw that there were 
 two Grevy's zebra with him. The place was bare, but there 
 was an odd shrub or two on the way to them. Leaving Juma, 
 I made a very careful stalk, taking every precaution, as I was 
 specially anxious to be successful. I crawled most of the way, 
 waiting patiently prone whenever they were turned in my 
 direction, and at length, by care and luck, reached the last 
 bush, which was within easy range of the three, all pretty close 
 together. But as I edged round to get a shot, the wary oryx 
 twigged me and set off, the zebras following. Exhausted by 
 my crawl and out of breath, I missed a running shot at the 
 foremost of the latter ; but a chance for a rather long shot 
 which the other gave me, by standing for a moment farther 
 on, I made better use of, the bullet going right through both 
 shoulders, with the result that he staggered and fell. It was 
 just sundown, but luckily camp was not far off; so the plentiful 
 supply of meat was soon brought in and distributed, in fulfil- 
 ment of my promise, to the delight of both the men and 
 myself. 
 
 My side was pretty sore next day as the result of my crawl,
 
 376 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 but it did not matter, as there was no occasion to hunt. While 
 resting during the march, I was interested in watching a tiny 
 gray spider with black stripes — one of the jumping kind — 
 pounce upon a big yellow ant, and kill it in no time by biting 
 its waist while sticking to its back. I knocked it off twice 
 with a bit of grass, but it returned to its victim after a short 
 pause both times. The second time, however, it met some 
 small dark red ants, which had discovered the prey, and backed 
 away, seemingly afraid of them. The relative proportions in 
 size of the predatory spider and its victim were about those 
 of a lion to a camel. I once noticed, when bathing in the El 
 Bogoi stream, one of these little spiders, of a somewhat similar 
 kind, swimming. It was on the bank when I saw it first, and 
 deliberately put out into the stream when I went near, making 
 a circuit and returning to the bank lower down, a performance 
 it repeated each time I disturbed it. 
 
 On the 13th we camped near the big fishing village, halting 
 earlier than usual, by special request of my leading porter, 
 that the men might have the amusement of bartering fish and 
 the advantage of additional rest. Swahilis dearly love fish ; 
 even when meat is plentiful they are always eager to get fish 
 too, if they can. Knowing their weakness, and also that they 
 could have little of their own to exchange for their favourite 
 delicacy, I gave Abdulla orders to buy all that was brought 
 with some spare beads 1 had among my own things, which I 
 had kept there as a reserve in case any might be needed on 
 the road, to save opening a load. In a very short time a big 
 heap of dried fish, besides a quantity of fresh, was accumulated ; 
 and as I afterwards went out and shot three oryx, meat enough 
 and to spare was added ; so altogether there was a feast for 
 all hands to rejoice the porter's heart — for he loves his "tumbu" 
 (stomach). Glad I was that they should revel in plenty while 
 they could, for I knew it would not always be so. Truth to 
 tell, I was not sorry to camp early myself that day, for I was 
 feeling very sore and stiff in my side and hardly able to keep
 
 XVI EN ROUTE FOR EL BOGOI ^77 
 
 up even with the slow pace of the caravan, though later on 
 this wore off and I was able to hunt. 
 
 Where we had stopped to rest this morning during the 
 march was a party of flamingoes. I watched them through 
 my glasses (they were not far off), and was much interested 
 in observing their curious method of procuring their food. 
 They were in very shallow water ; putting their heads down 
 and beaks in the mud, they worked their feet about with a 
 dancing movement, their knees swinging outward and together 
 again alternately after the fashion of a " Punch and Judy " 
 man clapping his cymbals with his elbows, the while waltzing 
 round and round, the head acting as pivot. When they fly, 
 the scarlet wings show with beautiful effect, the immensely 
 long necks being stretched out to their full extent. There 
 were many pelicans about, too, as well as other water-birds of 
 various kinds. On such occasions I always thought what a 
 pity it is one cannot have a camera that would photograph 
 what one sees through a good pair of field-glasses, and as 
 handy to use as they are. It is not possible to get near 
 enough to wild creatures to show anything distinct enough to 
 have any value in a picture taken with an ordinary hand- 
 camera ; and even if it were, one capable of taking a negative 
 of sufficient size to be of much use is comparatively clumsy, 
 troublesome to carry, and difficult to get out at a moment's 
 notice. A day or two later I came across wonderful armies of 
 these birds and attempted a snap-shot ; but the result was, as 
 usual, a failure. 
 
 The last sentence in my diary under this date (13th) runs 
 as follows : — " Just as I had finished writing the above entry 
 there was a distinct shock of earthquake." It is a curious 
 coincidence that this was, almost to a day, the date of the 
 rather severe earthquake experienced on the coast the year 
 before. 
 
 Two days after the above occurrence we took a short cut 
 across a hilly promontory which I had noted on our way up,
 
 378 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 thus saving (as in a smaller degree at other points) a good 
 deal in distance through our knowledge of the country. At 
 this part the lake is extremely wide, and when viewed from 
 an elevation looks lovely — deep blue flecked with white wave- 
 crests. 
 
 On the broad, sheltered bays which terminate this most 
 easterly gulf of Bassu we met with our El Molo friends again, 
 now no longer suspicious of us. One afternoon I had the oppor- 
 tunity of watching their mode of netting fish. The fishermen 
 passed my tent in procession on their way to the part of the 
 bay they intended to try, each with a coil of net, skewered on 
 an oryx horn, slung behind his back, knapsack fashion, one or 
 two women accompanying the party. Unwinding their pieces 
 of net, each several yards long, on the bank, they waded in 
 till the water was about up to their chests or necks, and then 
 separated, holding the nets between them, till they had formed 
 a circle. They did not close in much, but the fish that were 
 encompassed, being frightened, dashed about, leaping out of 
 the water, and some over the nets, in their efforts to escape, 
 and many were caught. Then the women took out the 
 captives and threaded them on a cord — first killing each by 
 piercing the head with one of the sharp oryx horns, thus 
 preventing trouble from its flapping about when suspended to 
 her waist in the water — while the men began to wade off for a 
 fresh haul farther on. When a shoal was enclosed the scene 
 was a lively one ; the water would fairly boil for a few moments 
 within the circle, the silvery fish glinting in the bright sunshine 
 as they leapt into the air, amidst great excitement and jabber- 
 ing. The fish caught in this manner were very handsome ; 
 they were deep and narrow, and some of considerable size, and 
 when fresh from the water were very good eating. 
 
 How little trouble it is to procure abundance of food of 
 this kind here is shown by the fact that, after about an hour's 
 amusement in the comparative cool of the late afternoon, the 
 party returned with quantities of beautiful fish. The numbers
 
 XVI EN ROUTE FOR EL BOGOr 379 
 
 of pelicans and fish -eating fowl of every possible kind, too, 
 show these bays to be a great resort of the fishy world of 
 Bassu. In the evening the dead bushes in the water are 
 simply laden with cormorants, herons, etc. I also observed 
 cormorants' nests containing young on a dead tree in the 
 shallow water. 
 
 I continued to hunt almost daily, devoting my attention 
 chiefly to zebra, and was pretty successful. In this perfectly 
 open country it is by no means easy to get within shot — then 
 sometimes a long one. It is often only to be accomplished by 
 a long and careful stalk — laborious and trying under a blazing 
 sun and over baked bare, stony ground, but rendered the more 
 interesting by these very difficulties. Thus, after sighting a 
 pair of zebra from a rocky hill, standing motionless in a bare 
 valley a couple of miles away, in an apparently unapproachable 
 position, and then working one's way arduously along little 
 rough gullies, crawling under partial cover of some slight 
 inequality of the ground — watching the while the tips of their 
 ears with strained eyes as you wriggle along among the stones 
 and the little thorny plants which are almost the only vegeta- 
 tion the barren ground supports, regardless of the tiny hair-like 
 spines penetrating hands and knees — it is satisfactory to attain 
 at length the point previously noted as within striking distance, 
 and floor both before sufficiently recovered from their alarm at 
 the sudden apparition to get out ^of range. And when an 
 experimental incision over the plump, wide quarters, grooved 
 like a ripe peach, and as sleek, shows a layer of yellow fat — 
 beloved of porters — half an inch or more in thickness, the 
 thought of the glee with which your straining men will carry 
 in the meat makes the tramp back to camp happy with the 
 anticipation of their joyful smiles. Having propped the round 
 carcase with stones so as to lie on its back, and tied a flutter- 
 ing white handkerchief to one of the up-sticking hind feet^ (for 
 there is most likely no stick near), you know it will be safe 
 
 ^ As illustrated in the photograph on p. 211.
 
 38o ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA ch. xvi 
 
 from the vultures. This expedient for protecting game from 
 birds I have not seen recommended. Others may have adopted 
 it, though I have not come across any mention of it myself I 
 found out the dodge some twenty years ago, in South Africa, 
 and have never known it fail if properly carried out, adapting 
 it to the situation by such various devices for attaching the flag 
 as circumstances may dictate. 
 
 We were now close to the rugged black lava hills, already 
 described as characterising the country at the southern end of 
 the lake, where I knew game to be scarce ; and glad was I 
 that the men had been having a good time with meat galore, 
 so as to have strength in reserve for the hard work ahead. 
 Our last comfortable camp was on the charming little stream 
 which comes from Mount Kulale. How beautiful is running 
 water in this arid land ; and how sweet it tastes after the nasty 
 stuff of bitter old Bassu ! Thence it took us a week's hard toil 
 to get through the terrible country already described — country 
 which a Zulu would say (and truly) had been " badly hurt." 
 As before, terrific gales made things unpleasant for us, and the 
 work harder : it being sometimes hardly possible to stand, and 
 out of the question to attempt to pitch a tent or use a table, 
 while nothing was safe without stones on it. But one may get, 
 in a measure, hardened to almost anything ; and I came to 
 take less notice of the discomforts the unceasing wind entailed 
 than formerly. By steady plodding we got through all the 
 difficulties without mishap. Of meat we got none ; I could 
 not even get a chance at one of the Grant's gazelle, a few of 
 which are to be found even there. 
 
 It is perplexing, at first sight, why these buck, which can 
 hardly ever see a human being, should be much wilder than 
 those in inhabited parts. Being unaccustomed to man certainly 
 produces no shocking tameness here. The explanation seems 
 to be, that where there are natives who are practically unable 
 to harm them, they get used to seeing people about ; whereas 
 these, having an in-bred fear of man, the inheritance of ages.
 
 o
 
 382 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 dread the unwonted apparition. Where the inhabitants do not 
 hunt, the game may be said to become partially domesticated 
 to a slight degree. Deer in parks are somewhat more so ; a 
 tame one becomes even offensive through excessive familiarity. 
 On the other hand, cattle, left to themselves, soon get wild ; 
 showing the same natural fear of the lord of creation. Where 
 persecuted, animals are, I suppose, still wilder than where un- 
 associated with mankind — though I confess I often wonder 
 how little difference it seems to make to their approachability. 
 
 It was not without a certain regret that I finally turned 
 my back upon the lake. Viewed as a whole, Bassu resembles 
 the Red Sea in many respects, though of course on a smaller 
 scale. Its long narrow shape, barren shores, and hot dry 
 climate, all remind one of that arm of the ocean ; while the 
 high ground on the eastern shore to a certain extent bears out 
 the comparison, and the bare rocks of Aden are not unlike the 
 style of country at the southern end (though those here are 
 much more broken up). But, though I had become attached 
 even to this not altogether entrancing lake, when, two or three 
 days later, we reached a higher level, with a colder climate, 
 near the base of Mount Nyiro, I felt reconciled to the separa- 
 tion. As we rose and entered the zone influenced by mountain 
 showers, the vegetation became quickly more verdant. It was 
 indeed pleasant once more to camp among fresh green leaves, 
 grass, and flowers, by a cool, clear, trickling spring, and to hear 
 the cheerful notes of familiar birds ; the fresh, chilly, early air 
 was an invigorating treat not felt for months past, while the 
 .sweet, cold water seemed the most delicious beverage possible. 
 
 Early on the 26th we got out into the high open plateau 
 near the southern end of Mount Nyiro. About 6.30 I noticed 
 a rhino with a big calf away to our left, under the spur or 
 buttress of the mountain which forms its south-eastern corner, 
 which we were just about to round. Had she remained where 
 she was I should not have gone out of my way to interfere 
 with her so far from our next camp, notwithstanding that we
 
 XVI EN ROUTE FOR EL BOGOI 383 
 
 had had no meat for nearly ten days ; but she came along 
 diagonally in our direction, as it were to cut us off, though 
 she was evidently quite unconscious of our presence. It shows 
 how blind these creatures are, that she never saw the caravan 
 with its row of gleaming white tusks marching right across her 
 right front. 
 
 When near meeting her, the men put down their loads, 
 and some bolted for shelter in a little gully, while I took 
 my rifle and sat on a slight prominence to await my chance, 
 determined, since providence had sent a supply of meat into 
 our very hands, to take advantage of it, notwithstanding that 
 it was still a long march to our camping-place for the day. 
 When she got within about a hundred yards or less she 
 seemed to see me. Probably my rifle -barrel glinted in the 
 sun, which had just topped the hills. She turned nearly 
 facing me, and stood with her head up, trying to make me 
 out, giving me the opportunity to plant a .303 bullet at the 
 root of the neck. On receiving it she turned and galloped 
 perhaps two hundred yards ; but I could see by her laboured 
 action, and the way she threw up her forelegs, that she had 
 got enough. Then she stood and tottered about, lifting her 
 forelegs out straight in front of her with a peculiar dancing 
 action, and fell over dead. I wanted to let the calf go, but, as 
 usual, it would not, and the men begged for its meat ; so, as 
 I wanted them to get a good feast after their hard work and 
 short rations, I let it have a bullet just in front of the point 
 of its shoulder, as it stood diagonally head on to me, and it 
 shared its mother's fate after running some hundred yards 
 from her. 
 
 The cow was fat, and the men cut up the meat in high 
 glee and piled it on to their already well-laden shoulders, 
 or heads. I waited for them nearly two hours before I could 
 get them to leave the carcases ; and it was wonderful how 
 little there was then left but hide and bones. The donkey- 
 men, who were sometimes out of it when anything was shot
 
 384 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 en route, through being behind, were, this time, to the fore 
 with the rest in the scramble. When a beast is killed on the 
 march, I let the men help themselves ; there is not time to 
 have it cut up and divided, as it is always best to do with 
 meat that can be carried straight into camp. The scene of 
 carnage under these circumstances beggars description — such 
 hacking and struggling and tearing ; one can liken it to 
 nothing but the vultures' carnival, only with men instead of 
 birds. The meat supply was most welcome — to myself as 
 well as the men. 
 
 Just south of Nyiro the country was much drier than when 
 we passed up ; but a little farther on we got quite suddenly 
 into fresh green grass, showing that a good deal of rain had 
 fallen there recently, further evidence of which was a pool of 
 water and the unusual quantity running in the Barta spruit. 
 But no sooner did we leave the latter than we got as suddenly 
 into dried-up country again, showing that it was only one of 
 those narrow storm-paths, I have before noticed, that we had 
 been crossing. Quantities of game, attracted by the young 
 pasturage, were congregated at one part of this green belt, 
 where the grass had previously been burnt, reminding me of 
 the Transvaal " High Veldt " in old times, though the species 
 here are different. I took toll of them in passing, just before 
 we reached our Barta camp, and was successful in picking out a 
 very fat E. grcvyi for my victim. We found a party of natives 
 of the Suk tribe here, living on game which they snared in the 
 manner described as practised by the El Gume. I had never 
 seen a human being in this part before, and fancy they were 
 wanderers beyond their usual range. They all cleared out 
 "under cover of the night, evidently suspicious of our intentions, 
 probably through a consciousness that they were intruders in 
 this region. 
 
 We got through the long dry march to the next stream 
 splendidly, doing a great part of it by night, the ivory-men 
 having by this time become thoroughly accustomed to their
 
 XVI EN ROUTE FOR EL BOGOI 385 
 
 tusks, and able to carry them with ease for hours at a stretch, 
 and with less fatigue than some of the porters carrying lighter 
 loads. There was no running water in the Suya now, and the 
 quantity of fresh spoor on the numerous game-tracks leading 
 to the pools showed that there was none at all away from the 
 river. At the Barasaloi plenty was still to be had, a little 
 below the surface, by digging in the sand, and that deliciously 
 cool and much better than at the last stream, no doubt because 
 this one rises in the high " subugo " forests of the Lorogi 
 Mountains. 
 
 On nearing El Bogoi'we almost felt as if the worst of our 
 journey was over, although it is really only about half-way to 
 the coast ; but the rest of the distance to the coast was through 
 comparatively familiar ground, and even the El Bogoi camp 
 seemed quite homelike now. Before getting in, a couple of 
 Ndorobo youths belonging to Lesiat's clan overtook us as we 
 were threading our way through the bush in the early morning. 
 They had been lying in wait by one of the game-paths 
 traversing the jungle, in the hopes of getting a chance at a 
 rhinoceros, which they had noticed was in the habit of using 
 it on his way to or from the water, and had their harpoons 
 with them. Rhinoceroses are scarce here, as a consequence, 
 no doubt, of the vicinity of this community, and the chances 
 of getting one by these means must be infinitesimal ; indeed, 
 how rarely these hunters meet with success was illustrated at 
 the time by the fact that the principal item of news they had 
 to give us, in reply to our inquiries, was that one of these 
 animals had been killed during our absence (about seven 
 months), and another wounded, but lost. 
 
 It was cheering to be greeted with friendly smiles and 
 handshakes, indicative of genuine pleasure at meeting us, by 
 these careless children of the forest. They accompanied us 
 for some distance, asking many questions about our experiences, 
 and looking with admiration at our fine show of ivory. On 
 hearing of my accident they showed much interest and concern, 
 
 2 C
 
 386 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 and finally — somewhat to my confusion — insisted on my 
 stripping to the waist and showing my wounds, which they 
 examined with evident sympathy. They then ran off to carry 
 word of my return to their people. 
 
 I was a good deal dismayed on reaching our little stream 
 to find its bed dry, as I feared we should be compelled to go 
 and camp higher up its course in a less convenient spot, nearer 
 the mountains, where I knew it never ceased to flow ; but we 
 found a little trickling rill still running on the surface for a 
 few yards, a little below where we crossed and close to my 
 favourite camp, just sufficient to supply the donkeys as well 
 as ourselves with water. We were soon comfortably installed 
 in the old spot ; and it was a source of no small satisfaction 
 that we had reached here once more safely, and if myself not 
 altogether sound, all the rest — both man and beast — well, not 
 a porter lame nor a donkey with a sore back. Of those who 
 went up with me, Shebane alone was missing ; and his sad 
 loss was brought vividly to my memory here by the absence 
 of flowers from the table, when spread in my favourite 
 "bower" dining-room. 
 
 Soon more of our Ndorobo neighbours, including Lesiat 
 
 himself, turned up, some bringing me little presents of their 
 
 delicious honey, and all welcomed me as an old friend, and 
 
 seemed as pleased to see me as I was to see them. Then I 
 
 was importuned to exhibit my scars again, and received many 
 
 kindly condolences. Lesiat at first told me that he had been 
 
 compelled by hunger to eat two loads of beans of mine, which 
 
 had been left in his charge, owing to one of the donkeys that 
 
 had been sent back for them from Nyiro, when we were on our 
 
 way up, having been killed by a lion. I told him that it was 
 
 of no consequence, he being my friend, and that I could not 
 
 quarrel with him on such an account. Fortunately, we were in 
 
 no straits for food ; although in such a place, so far from any 
 
 source of supply, it is, of course, very valuable. Having been 
 
 assured of my forgiveness, he forthwith declared that he had
 
 XVI EN ROUTE FOR EL BOGOI 387 
 
 only been testing the strength of my affection for him, and 
 that the food was safe and intact in a cavern, where he had 
 carefully stored it, barricading the entrance. And so it proved 
 to be : he had hidden it in this dry cave, a secret retreat of 
 his, the entrance to which could only be approached with 
 difficulty, hidden as it was in dense scrub. I said he might 
 eat one of the two loads now, in that case, as he told me that 
 he and his people were suffering from famine (he certainly 
 looked thin), and I also rejoiced his heart with the promise of 
 a donkey. 
 
 But the most unsatisfactory news he had to tell me was 
 that there was not an elephant in the whole country now, nor 
 had been since my departure. This was disappointing, as I 
 had planned to stay some time here, while I sent to Mthara 
 for more food, and to the coast for help to carry down our 
 ivory ; and hoped to add a little to the latter in the interval, 
 by hunting during the delay. 
 
 The pit in which I had planted what 1 had shot in this 
 neighbourhood on our way up was not only untouched, but 
 so overgrown with weeds that it was not possible for any one 
 to see the ground had ever been disturbed. We could not 
 carry its contents along now, even with the spare donkeys, 
 without great difficulty, although we still had sufficient food 
 to take us to Ukambani. Moreover, I feared the Tana River 
 might be impassable, and I had no objection to another month 
 or two in this district before proceeding coastwards. I had 
 therefore determined to send to Mthara as before for additional 
 supplies, while I remained here, at the same time sending 
 messengers to the coast to bring up some additional porters 
 to meet us at Mtiya's (across the Tana), whither v\^e would in 
 the meantime transport our loads, in two journeys, after the 
 return of the food caravan. With this idea I had been writing 
 letters, for several days past, to be ready to send to the coast, 
 and I devoted the next day to the same duty while my men 
 were getting a rest.
 
 388 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA ch. xvi 
 
 Having completed that task, I determined to give the 
 caravan one more day to recruit its strength before setting out 
 on the journey to the foot of the Jambeni range — which 
 would have to be accomplished by forced marches (" empty 
 hands," of course) so as to economise food, — in order that I 
 might try and shoot them some meat. I accordingly went 
 out early, with Baithai, on the second morning after our 
 arrival ; and, luck being with me, I killed two giraffe, with 
 one bullet each, out of a small troop I had stalked. I gave 
 my Ndorobo friends one, and the " safari " the other, which 
 provided abundance of meat for all hands, and made every one 
 happy. The extra day's delay gave me time to make some 
 additions to my batch of letters for the mail, while the goods 
 shed was repaired, the donkey boma strengthened, and our 
 ivory buried. The camp was full of Ndorobos, and the men 
 were very noisy ; but, though rather disagreeable, I put up 
 with that, as I like to hear them in good spirits.
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 CAMPING AT EL BOGOI 
 
 A vexatious disablement — A drastic cure — Man-eating lions — ^Juma's lion story — A 
 diary under difficulties — Predatory lions scared — Loss of pack-animals — Pre- 
 cautionary measures — Setting a bait — A tragic scuffle — An exciting moment — 
 A magician's failure — Cheering prospects — A novel excuse — The lions' den — 
 An effectual trap — My treacherous gun — The last of the besiegers — A joyful 
 moment — Anticipation and realisation — Methods of setting gun-traps. 
 
 We had reached El Bogoi on 3rd June, and on the 6th 
 Abdulla left with the bulk of the men for Mthara, a few only 
 remaining with me, together with all the donkeys (except two 
 or three which he had taken). I was waiting for Lesiat to 
 bring me news as to whether any elephants could be heard of 
 in any of the country round about, he having promised to send 
 out messengers for the purpose of obtaining information. But 
 hardly had the caravan left, than my right hand became 
 inflamed and swollen and extremely painful. I had got a 
 thorn in it one night when putting wood on my fire just before 
 our arrival here ; and whether it was that there was anything 
 poisonous about that particular thorn or the needle with which 
 it was extracted, or what the cause was, I could not tell, but in 
 a few days it became so bad that I did not know what to do 
 with it. Thorns and scratches are such a matter of course in 
 one's hands when hunting, that I never took any notice of 
 them nor ever felt any ill consequences from their attentions ; 
 in this case, however, something in the nature of blood- 
 poisoning ensued, resulting in my having the most frightful
 
 390 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 hand, from which I suffered agonies. I believe it was made 
 worse by my allowing one of my men to cut into it ; but the 
 pain was so excruciating and continuous that I was ready to 
 try anything, and would have almost submitted to have it cut off 
 at one time. Thus, by another stroke of ill-luck, this originally 
 trivial affair disabled me again for fully a month, during which 
 I suffered greatly and was of course a prisoner in camp. At 
 the same time I thought myself extremely lucky not to be 
 compelled to march while my hand was in this state. 
 
 Lesiat used to come frequently to see me, and kept me 
 supplied with quantities of honey ; indeed he considered it his 
 own peculiar privilege to keep my honey keg full. He used 
 to eye my galvanised iron buckets with admiration, and often 
 begged me to leave one with him on my departure for the 
 coast, together with my enamelled wash-hand basin as a cover 
 for the same, promising that I should find it full on my next 
 visit. He explained that wooden utensils with skin covers 
 were liable to be damaged by insects, and declared that one 
 large receptacle of the kind, which he had hidden full of honey 
 in the forest against my return, had been eaten by a hyena. 
 One day, when I was at my worst, he brought me about a 
 quart of the most lovely honey, like olive oil, extracted from 
 pure, white virgin comb, telling me to drink it all like water 
 before going to bed, with the assurance that it would do me 
 good like medicine. I did not feel equal to following his 
 advice literally, though I have little doubt that the effect could 
 not have failed to be pretty drastic ; at the same time, I hold 
 strongly the opinion of the sage of old, exemplified as it is in 
 the Ndorobos of to-day, that honey is " health to the bones." 
 
 Elephant news was not much use to me under these 
 circumstances ; but I learnt that there were some on the 
 western slopes of the Lorogis. This information had been 
 gained from a neighbouring community, some of whom had 
 been with me formerly on my excursion down the Seya valley. 
 It appeared that several of these people had been on a honey-
 
 XVII CAMPING AT EL BO GO I 39I 
 
 hunting expedition in the " subugo " forests there — owing to 
 the dryness of the season having caused a dearth on this side, 
 while these conditions were favourable to the bees' harvest in 
 that moister climate. But their operations were suddenly cut 
 short by a tragedy : one of their number had been carried off 
 and devoured by a lion, which had sprung upon the unfortunate 
 man while he was engaged in digging out a hive from a hole 
 in the ground, in broad daylight — so at least the affair was 
 described to me. In consequence of this, none of these people 
 would venture over the mountains again, although they declared 
 that honey was in abundance there, while here, on their own 
 side of the range, it was now so scarce. 
 
 Another disaster of the same kind occurred shortly after 
 to a member of Lorgete's family. They had only just returned 
 from the Gwaso Nyiro River, where they had been hunting 
 and trapping for some time ; and, not having yet heard what 
 had happened, two or three of them went over the " subugo " to 
 reconnoitre, with a view of camping on the far side of the range 
 for a time. It is the habit of these natives, when starting out 
 in the early morning, to carry two or three burning brands, 
 drawn from the fire, in one hand ; and when the air is chilly — 
 as it always is in the " subugo " until the sun gets high — the 
 bearer puts his fire-sticks on the ground now and then, and, 
 blowing them up, sits cowering over the blaze, his skin cape 
 drawn round his shoulders, to imbibe the warmth. In this 
 position one of the party was pounced upon by the man-eater, 
 as witnessed by his terrified companion from a little distance, 
 and became its easy prey, just as in the case already 
 mentioned. 
 
 It seemed a remarkable corroboration of Lesiat's dread of 
 the lions of that part, against which he had formerly warned 
 me when narrating his own adventures with one there in his 
 youth. Events which transpired later seemed to show, though, 
 that these animals were unusually daring and dangerous this year; 
 and I believe the explanation to be that, owing to the drought,
 
 392 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the country was exceptionally bare of grass, making game 
 much more difficult of approach and capture by beasts of prey. 
 The latter, unable to satisfy their wants in the ordinary way, 
 were thus rendered desperate by hunger, and became pro- 
 portionately bold and aggressive. I have observed the same 
 thing in South Africa ; there, the grass is universally burned 
 during the winter or dry season ; and it is invariably in the 
 early spring, when all the country is devoid of cover, and before 
 the new grass has begun to grow, that lions wander from their 
 usual haunts in the uninhabited bush tracts, where game is 
 their prey, into the neighbourhood of the border kraals, and 
 make raids upon the natives' cattle. I have myself lost cattle 
 in this way — always at that particular time of year. There, 
 however, the depredators seldom live to continue the habit. 
 The alarm is at once raised, and all the men from the 
 surrounding district muster up and hunt out the intruder, whom 
 they seldom fail to make pay the penalty of his temerity. The 
 scattered Ndorobos, on the other hand, whether from timidity 
 or want of cohesion, make no attempt to avenge the death of 
 one of themselves ; and, as a consequence, the lion, once having 
 overcome his instinctive fear of man, repeats the attack when- 
 ever hunger prompts and opportunity offers. 
 
 Soon after my hand first became bad I had sent Juma 
 with another man to follow Abdulla to Mthara, with a message 
 about my mail. On their return he, too, had a lion story. He 
 said that one evening when they had halted for the night on 
 the banks of the Gwaso Nyiro, as his companion was cooking 
 their food a lion had sprung at him, but, missing the man, had 
 landed in the fire and upset the pot. Whether his majesty 
 was too much disconcerted by this failure and the burning of 
 his paws to follow up his intended victim, or whether the latter 
 had already made good his retreat aloft, I am not clear, but at 
 all events both the messengers returned safe and sound, arriving 
 back on the 22nd. They declared, though, that they had 
 always slept in trees after this scare. About a week before
 
 XVII CAMPING AT EL BOGOI 393 
 
 this I had heard a lion roaring one night not very far away, a 
 very unusual thing here ; indeed I don't think I had ever heard 
 one before near El Bogoi. 
 
 My hand had been in such a state that I began to fear 
 mortification ; it was swollen out of all shape — the swelling 
 extending up my arm and the pain into my side — and turning 
 black ; but about this time it took a more hopeful turn, great 
 quantities of matter were discharged from both palm and back, 
 with corresponding abatement of pain. But it was the mere 
 wreck of a hand, undermined about the base of the fingers with 
 tunnels penetrating from front to back, through which daylight 
 could be seen — an utterly useless member so far as grasping 
 power was concerned — and the arm, now the swelling had 
 abated, shrunken to half its natural size. During the whole of 
 this time I wrote my diary with my left ; and so quickly can 
 one adapt oneself to circumstances, that, whereas the first iow 
 days are hardly legible, in three weeks I had attained such 
 proficiency as to be able to write almost as neatly as with the 
 right, though of course not so fast. 
 
 I was in this crippled state, then, when, a few days after 
 Juma's return from Mthara, I sent him with two or three others 
 to collect moss in the " subugo " for stuffing donkey-pads. The 
 distance to the top of the mountain was considerable, and as 
 it would take some time to gather sufficient moss from the 
 trees in the forest, they could not get back till the succeeding 
 day ; so that I was left with only three or four men in the 
 camp. 
 
 I slept in a shed, open at one end, behind which was the 
 one containing our stores, and a few yards beyond that again 
 the kraal or " boma," a circular enclosure of thorny branches, in 
 which the donkeys (some two dozen) were shut up every night ; 
 a little to one side were the cook's shanty and two or three 
 huts belonging to the other men. One of my principal donkey- 
 men and " askari," named Maftaha, who was in charge of the 
 stores, and whose duty it was to count the donkeys every night
 
 394 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 and see them shut safely into their " boma," slept in the goods 
 shed. 
 
 On the night in question, namely, that of 25th June, about 
 9.30, I had just gone to sleep when I was awakened by the 
 sudden rush and rumble made by the troop of donkeys break- 
 ing out of the kraal and stampeding. In the " bara " ^ one 
 acquires the habit of sleeping, as it were, with one eye (or, at 
 all events, one ear) open, so that any alarm or commotion 
 arouses you in an instant and you instinctively spring out of 
 bed and seize your rifle. From bitter experience I had learnt 
 the advisability of having mine ready to my hand, and always 
 placed it (loaded and with cartridges in the magazine) on two 
 upright forked sticks — driven into the ground between my bed 
 and the tent wall— so that it lay horizontally in a position to 
 be handily grasped at once, alongside of me. On hearing the 
 commotion, I knew at once it must be a lion, and ran out with 
 the rifle in my left hand. The moon, somewhat past the full, 
 had lately risen. 
 
 Maftaha, not realising the situation, had gone out empty- 
 handed, with the usual Swahili stupidity ; and as I got round 
 he was just going to look into the kraal, but on getting opposite 
 the gate he started back with a cry of " Ah ! Simba ! " at the 
 same moment that the lion gave a growl. The men were all 
 gaping, no one thinking of his gun till I rated them for their 
 idiocy. I, the while, was fumbling with my game hand at the 
 breech of my Lee-Metford, and making a hash of trying to get 
 a cartridge into the barrel (I had moved the bolt as I came 
 out with the idea of making quite sure that the cartridge was 
 in the breech all right this time ; and, owing to my right hand 
 being maimed, it had flown open and the cartridge out). I 
 could hear a donkey kicking on the ground in the kraal, and 
 
 ^ This Swahili word is said to be derived from the Arabic one signifying coast. It 
 is, however, used to denote the wild interior as distinct from the civilised maritime region, 
 and its resemblance to the Zulu word ' ' ibala " is at least a curious coincidence. The 
 latter is often used in much the same sense ; thus the locative form "obala" (Zulu) or 
 " ebaleni " (Swazi) means "in the open or uninhabited countrj'."
 
 XVII CAMPING AT EL BOGOI 395 
 
 moaning in its death struggles ; but there was now no other 
 sound. Then, just as I had managed to get my gun in order 
 and was going to the gate of the kraal — having motioned 
 Maftaha to follow me — with the intention of trying to loose off 
 at our enemy, the fool let drive at random into the bush from 
 behind a bank of weeds — fancying, I suppose, he was safe there 
 because he could see nothing — scaring the lions (he declared 
 there were two), and our chance of immediate revenge was lost. 
 
 The dead donkey (a small one) was merely killed by bites 
 in the throat and back of the neck, but not touched otherwise, 
 except for scratches in the struggle. Had it not been for my 
 maimed hand I could hardly have failed to shoot a lion in the 
 kraal, for it was bright moonlight and the dead donkey was 
 plainly visible from opposite the gate. We kept watch all 
 night, but the enemy returned not. Three donkeys came back 
 into camp during the night, and were secured and tied to trees 
 among the huts. There happened to have been two Ndorobos 
 sleeping in camp, so in the morning I sent one of these with 
 the donkey-herd to try to follow up the spoor of the frightened 
 pack-animals, while the other went to Lesiat's to get more help. 
 A few volunteers soon turned up, all wishing to assist in the 
 search for the lost asses. One was found close by, slashed, but 
 only skin deep, with claw-marks, and three more, unhurt, were 
 found during the day ; yet another trio came home by them- 
 selves about sundown, but there was no news of the rest. 
 
 In the meantime it had been necessary to keep the few 
 men I had here hard at work making a new " boma " close to the 
 goods shed ; the other had been too weak, and in the shadow 
 of trees, with scrub right up to the back of it. The camp was, 
 indeed, most villainously situated in this respect, surrounded by 
 thick cover, favouring the approach of predatory beasts ; but 
 this was unavoidable here, the whole country being one con- 
 tinuous jungle, and as nothing had ever happened before — 
 though the donkeys had been here for months in charge of only 
 two or three men, — no special precautions had been taken this
 
 396 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 time to make the kraal secure. Of course, with so few hands, 
 it was not possible to remedy this defect in one day, especially 
 as Juma and his two men did not get back till the evening ; 
 however, it was made as strong as could be managed under the 
 circumstances, in the hope of keeping the donkeys in ; and, at 
 sundown, those that had been recovered were put in and the 
 entrance closed, as securely as could be contrived, with big 
 thorny boughs. 
 
 I could, of course, do nothing myself but look on and 
 encourage my men. To attempt to look for the lions would, 
 even had I been whole, have been quite useless without dogs 
 (even Pice had died in Kere) in the thickets that surrounded 
 us in every direction. Had I been able to shoot, I might have 
 posted myself in some position whence I could watch the dead 
 donkey all night, after securing it in some way to prevent its 
 being dragged, so as to ensure as far as possible the lions 
 remaining by it, should they come at all, until the moon rose, 
 which would not be till after ten that night. Even that might 
 not have been successful, as the night proved cloudy and dark, 
 while the place where the kraal had been was overshadowed by 
 trees ; but, as it was, I did not, of course, attempt anything of 
 the kind. 
 
 We had been obliged to use all the branches of which the 
 " boma " had been made for the new one, cutting more to add 
 to them ; and, even working their hardest all day, my few men 
 (including cook and all) could not construct such a fence as to 
 make me feel much confidence that the panic-stricken donkeys 
 could not burst through, if frightened again, formidable though 
 the barricade of branches looked. Hence there was no time 
 to build any barrier round the carcase, to allow of my setting a 
 gun in the only way it can be usefully done over a kill ; and 
 the only thing I could do to-day was to set one baited with 
 meat in the way I always adopt with success when the depre- 
 dator whose end it is wished to compass is a hyena. Having 
 done that, I thought it best to remove the dead donkey, so
 
 XVII CAMPING AT EL BOGOI 397 
 
 that there would be a better chance of the bait proving an 
 attraction. 
 
 There happened to be some Ndorobos from a distance at 
 my camp, in addition to Lesiat and a number of his people ; 
 and these strangers asked permission to eat the donkey, having 
 no prejudices against the meat such as Lesiat's tribe professed 
 to entertain ; so I allowed them to cut up and remove it, and 
 I then set my gun just beyond where it had been, supposing 
 that to be the direction from which the lions would be likely to 
 come should they return. Not that I felt sure they would 
 come again at all, seeing that they had been disturbed before 
 getting even a mouthful of their victim and had not attempted 
 to return during the night on which it had been killed, although 
 that had occurred so early in the evening. As the event proved, 
 they did come again ; but not past my gun at all. There were 
 a considerable number of Ndorobos in my camp that night, and 
 Juma and his men had returned, so we were quite a large party. 
 
 Having done all that could be done, and not expecting 
 anything to happen, at all events for some time, as soon as it 
 got quite dark I sat down to have my evening porridge (I could 
 no longer dignify the meal with the name of dinner now that 
 meat was an unknown quantity on my board, owing to my 
 being unable to hunt). The camp was quite astir with men 
 and natives sitting talking as usual about their fires. Hardly 
 had I got seated, and before I could take a second spoonful, 
 the donkeys suddenly burst out of the new " boma " ; and im- 
 mediately after, amid shouts from the numerous occupants of 
 the camp, there was the sound of one of the poor brutes being 
 choked by our enemy, not fifty yards from my hut. I was 
 standing just outside, rifle in hand, and all crowded round me. 
 Aided by their judgment (their ears were better than mine, 
 though not their eyes), I calculated the exact direction whence 
 these ghastly sounds were issuing ; to see anything was out of 
 the question, for not only was it very dark, but the scuffle was 
 going on among some brushwood.
 
 398 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 Though I could not grip my rifle with my right hand, I 
 could hold it up with my left and put a finger of the damaged 
 one on the trigger, and in this way, aiming for the sound, I 
 fired a shot. Instantly a light-coloured animal dashed out of 
 the scrub within a few yards of us, made visible by the light of 
 the fire that always burned outside my hut. Those around me 
 nearly knocked me down in their alarm, rushing back into my 
 hut under the impression that the lion was upon us ; and I 
 confess that at the first moment of catching sight of it I 
 thought it was one myself But it turned behind my hut 
 instead of coming on, and was, in fact, the donkey which the 
 lions had dropped on my firing the shot. 
 
 At the time I supposed that the whizzing of the bullet close 
 past had made them let go for a moment, but it proved after- 
 wards that this shot had actually hit one of them ; the donkey, 
 moreover, was in the end recovered, and eventually got over its 
 wounds. This by the way : I did not know then that I had 
 done any good, though I knew I had hurt my hand ; and my 
 impression that it was to no purpose was confirmed by another 
 donkey being caught at once, as was proved by similar sounds 
 of a struggle coming again from close to the same spot as 
 before. Neither shots fired by the men nor firebrands thrown 
 had any effect, and after more struggling, panting, and groaning, 
 the donkey was killed and then dragged farther off, amid 
 horrible gurglings and gruntings. I concluded it was useless 
 to attempt to do any more in the pitch dark, for, even had we 
 succeeded in making the lions drop the present victim, another 
 would have certainly been caught, since all the donkeys were 
 out in the bush ; better, then, let one be eaten, and endeavour 
 to concoct a plan to make its sacrifice a means of revenge. In 
 the meantime I finished my interrupted meal. 
 
 Lesiat rather annoyed me by talking idiotically. I fancy, 
 though, that he was even more disappointed in me ; and I must 
 have fallen lamentably as a magician in the estimation of my 
 Ndorobo friends on this occasion, in that my magical powers—
 
 XVII CAMPING AT EL BOGOI 399 
 
 powers that they insist on imputing to one in spite of himself 
 — were unavailing to prevent the lions playing havoc with my 
 donkeys. Subsequently, I believe, I recovered their good 
 opinion, but, unfortunately, not all my donkeys. Explanations 
 of my inability to see in the dark were considered inadequate, 
 and any allusion to my crippled hand was coldly received ; 
 some manifestation of supernatural powers was clearly expected 
 of me. 
 
 But what I most objected to, and was at last constrained 
 to protest against, was Lesiat's wild statements about the 
 danger we were in, calculated as they were to increase the 
 uneasiness of my already frightened men. He asserted that 
 the lions were certain to attack us, and held out the cheering 
 prospect of our all being eaten eventually, one by one ; escape 
 would be impossible, since we should be followed up remorse- 
 lessly whithersoever we might attempt to retreat. At last, out 
 of patience with his unmanly conduct, I told him I could do 
 no more that night, but that I was prepared to make an effort 
 in the morning, and asked if he could spoor the lions by 
 daylight. To this he replied that he would unfailingly track 
 them to their hiding-place and show me where they were. No 
 doubt he did not expect me to ask him to fulfil this promise. 
 At all events, when, as soon as day had dawned, I turned 
 out with my rifle and sent Juma to summon him, he flatly 
 refused to move a step in the direction in which the carcase 
 had been dragged, declaring that he was going to look for the 
 other donkeys. His line of argument was similar to that of 
 a formerly well-known character among South African gold 
 prospectors, of whom it is told that, when asked to join in a 
 lion hunt in a remote part of the Transvaal bush veldt, where 
 the prospectors' pack-donkeys were being preyed on, he declined 
 on the ground that " He hadn't lost no lions." Even of 
 searching for the lost asses Lesiat made but a poor pretence, 
 he and his men returning in a short time to make a formal 
 declaration that none could be found, and then going their ways
 
 400 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 to their own quarters, glad to be quit of us and our disquieting 
 troubles. 
 
 Starting from the scene of the tragic scuffle, where the 
 ground was marked all about with deep hoof-prints, Juma and 
 I had not far to follow the plain groove in the laid grass 
 indicating the track of the dragged carcase. It led into a little 
 " donga " or gully not a hundred yards from camp, and under 
 a drooping bushy thorn-tree surrounded by brushwood which 
 grew in the very bottom close under the opposite bank. The 
 entrance to this cavern-like lair was through a little dark 
 opening, like the mouth of a cave, into which the carcase had 
 been dragged. Peering into this den, half the donkey could be 
 discerned in the gloom, lying in the centre, its head bent under 
 the neck. There being no signs of the lions, we entered, and 
 found that the whole of the hindquarters had been eaten, while 
 the front half was still entire. Just outside the den was a heap 
 of rubbish, evidently scraped together, and under it was buried 
 part of the animal's intestines. This we threw to the vultures, 
 in order that the only attraction left might be the half-eaten 
 carcase inside the den. 
 
 My men worked hard all day at strengthening the " boma " 
 still more, piling on thorny boughs all round so as to make 
 the fence both high and wide, and, if possible, impregnable. 
 It was even more important to prevent the donkeys getting 
 out, than lions in ; for they were so panic-stricken that the 
 least thing was enough to stampede them, and Maftaha declared, 
 and I believe truly, that it was the mere scent of the lions 
 prowling about that had caused them to break out again last 
 night, carrying the mass of thorny branches, forming the boma, 
 before them in their mad charge. I meanwhile braced myself 
 to the task of setting a gun at the entrance to the den in the 
 gully ; for I felt that it was imperative to use every effort to 
 compass these marauders' destruction, in spite of the difficul- 
 ties I worked under owing to my crippled hand (made still 
 sorer by handling my gun). Fortunately I knew, from long
 
 XVII CAMPING AT EL BOGOI 401 
 
 experience, how it ought to be done ; and when, immediately 
 after sunset, I went down to put the cartridge in and cock the 
 gun (it was one of the porters' Snider carbines), I felt that the 
 trap was well laid. The place was a most suitable one for the 
 purpose, as there was hardly another opening, and such as there 
 were we had endeavoured to block up. Only two donkeys 
 turned up that day, and these we tied to trees instead of putting 
 them in the kraal. 
 
 The camp was hushed that night ; not an Ndorobo was 
 there, and my men were very quiet. It was again cloudy and 
 dark ; but nothing happened till about 3 A.M. Then the 
 stillness was suddenly broken by the loud explosion of the gun 
 in the gully, followed almost simultaneously by savage growls 
 and horrible groaning roars. At first the outburst of angry 
 sounds was appalling, but though the noises continued with 
 slight pauses for a considerable time, by degrees they became 
 fainter and the intervals longer, until at last they died away 
 altogether. There could be no doubt that one of the lions had 
 shot itself ; and what made me hopeful that the result had been 
 fatal was the fact that all the uproar proceeded evidently from 
 one spot, and that close to where the gun had been set. From 
 the time when it ceased up to daybreak, the only sounds that 
 could be heard there were occasional low grunts and the 
 crunching of bones. These I supposed were produced by 
 hyenas, which had been howling about, and one of which I saw, 
 as soon as it got light, slinking off with distended belly, but 
 it proved otherwise. 
 
 As soon as it was fully light I went to see what had 
 happened, followed by two or three of the men with their guns. 
 On reaching the bank of the gully, which on our side sloped 
 gradually (the opposite one being steep), so that I could over- 
 look the narrow grassy space between our edge and the thicket 
 under the tree where the gun was set, I caught sight of a lion's 
 ear sticking up among the grass. Though it did not move, I 
 thought it best to make sure, so fired a shot into the spot 
 
 2 D
 
 402 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 where I calculated its owner's chest must be ; but he had long 
 been dead. I afterwards found that my bullet would have 
 finished him had he needed it. But, just as I was going down 
 to him, Feruzi drew my attention to sounds, as of tearing, 
 which could be caught proceeding from inside the den ; and, 
 on our drawing nearer, some animal was heard breaking through 
 the cover on the far side, and two of my men banged off (of 
 course fruitlessly) as it scrambled up the bank. On the top 
 was a little open space which it would have to cross, and I 
 stood ready for a shot. It was the other lion, and it gave me 
 a beautiful broadside shot as it cantered across the few yards of 
 open before it reached the bush beyond. I felt I was dead on, 
 and hoped to see it go head over heels ; but my treacherous 
 gun played me false once more, sticking at half-cock, and to 
 my disgust the chance of laying the two marauders side by side 
 was lost. However, it was something to have been avenged 
 on one, and we carried him up in triumph. The bullet had 
 got him in the loins as he was entering the lair. He was one 
 of the small maneless lions, a mature male, and proved very 
 thin. The brutes were evidently rendered bold by hunger. 
 
 During the day the kraal gate was made very solid, and I 
 thought the whole thing was now so strong that it would be 
 impossible for the donkeys to break out or a lion to get in. 
 Search was also made for the donkeys, and about half were 
 found, though ten were still missing. Of course I reset and 
 loaded the gun again. That evening, as I was lying on my 
 bed, smoking my last pipe before going to sleep, having already 
 been round with the men to make up a big fire of logs, which 
 we had lighted on the far side of the kraal, the gun went off 
 again. I jumped up and stood outside to listen, and some low, 
 gurgling growls followed from the same spot, which sounded 
 exactly like a lion's dying gasps, and were certainly made by 
 no hyena. After a few prolonged groans the sounds died away, 
 and all was still for the rest of the night, except for an occa- 
 sional slight chuckle of one of the latter animals crunching the
 
 XVII CAMPING AT EL BOGOI 403 
 
 bones of last night's lion, whose carcase had been thrown out 
 for them to eat ; and I rested with a relieved mind, confident 
 that in the morning we should find our remaining scourge lying 
 dead beside my trap. 
 
 And so it proved ; for, on going to see the result of the 
 shot, there lay the other lion, dead, just inside the den, from 
 which he had been coming out. He had got the bullet in 
 the head and dropped on the spot, under the gun. This one 
 was rather larger than the first, but of the same type ; both 
 were full-grown males. In skinning the last, a .303 bullet, very 
 much knocked out of shape, was found in his upper lip. This 
 was the shot I had fired in the dark. It had hit the large 
 upper canine tooth right in the very centre of its point, smash- 
 ing the tooth to atoms and indenting the nose of the bullet. 
 The lion must have had his head on one side, holding on to the 
 donkey, to have received the bullet in such a way. It shows 
 how keen he must have been, that even that could not deter 
 him nor even spoil his appetite. That morning the donkey 
 which this shot had rescued was brought in. It had some 
 deepish claw gashes on its hindquarters, but had not yet been 
 caught by the neck when let go. What astonished me about 
 this experience was the difficulty these lions had in pulling 
 down a strong donkey, and the time it took them to kill one. 
 I no longer wondered at zebra often getting off with scratches — 
 I have often shot them with long scars made by lions' claws. 
 
 We could now sleep in peace once more, except for the re- 
 joicings of hyenas, which could do us no harm, over the bones 
 of the lions. 
 
 Lesiat and Co. looked with astonishment at seeing two lions' 
 skins pegged out, and thought after all I must have some 
 powerful charms. As for my donkeys, we eventually found all 
 but four ; they were scattered far and wide, and the last of 
 those we recovered were not brought in till a month after. 
 Donkeys differ from horses and cattle in this curious respect, 
 that when lost they wander about aimlessly in any direction.
 
 404 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 not going back the way they came nor heading for some part 
 they know, as would other animals, but becoming hopelessly 
 lost. On the other hand, they never stray gratuitously, and in 
 this way are infinitely less trouble. Indeed they are rather a 
 nuisance from the perversity with which they persist in poking 
 about inside the camp and getting among one's tent-ropes. 
 
 The day after the siege of our camp had thus been raised, 
 by the death of the last of the besiegers, Abdulla returned from 
 Mthara. He was evidently proud of having had no casualties 
 among his donkeys in passing through the district where lions 
 were numerous, across the Gwaso Xyiro, and believed this 
 immunity to be due to a charm which he possessed. Though 
 too polite to express his feelings in words, his self-satisfied smile 
 was indicative of conscious superiority in this particular respect. 
 He left again a day or two later, with the first instalment of 
 ivory for Ukambani, where it was to be deposited at Mtiya's. 
 It was not till some days later, though, that the men with my 
 mail, which had been fetched from the German mission station 
 at the coastward end of the above country, arrived. 
 
 I had, of course, had no letters or papers, nor any com- 
 munication with the outside world, since I had passed through 
 there just about a year before ; and it may be imagined how 
 anxiously I looked forward to getting news, especially after 
 being laid up so long with nothing to read. It was, then, a 
 joyful moment when I heard one of the men exclaim that the 
 long-expected messengers with the mail were close by, and a 
 glad sight to see Squareface come round the corner, followed 
 by his mates, and deposit a sackful of letters and papers at my 
 feet. But, as often happens in such cases, the realisation does 
 not bear out the anticipation. After reading hard half the 
 night, one's head, now so unaccustomed to this form of excite- 
 ment, gets in a whirl, which prevents much sleep during the 
 other half, with headache to follow next day. Moreover, I have 
 generally found that letters that have been waited for so long, 
 and so much looked forward to, are to a large extent dis-
 
 CAMPING AT EL BOGOI 
 
 405 
 
 appointing. Many friends cease to write when you are far from 
 regular reach of post ; others write perfunctorily, as an irksome 
 duty, and probably tell you about the weather ; some even say 
 disagreeable things, not taking the trouble to think how un- 
 pleasant it will be to read such productions in the loneliness 
 of the remote African wilderness. 
 
 All this has a depressing effect on a sensitive traveller, 
 with the result that the reaction, after eager expectation, almost 
 makes him wish he had not read these disillusioning epistles. 
 Newspapers are, at all events, interesting ; there is nothing 
 personal about them, though they are cold comfort to the 
 
 Fig. a. 
 Baited Trap for Hyena or Leopard. 
 
 solitary exile. But there are other letters which it really does 
 him good to read ; some have thought of the wanderer, and 
 written so kindly, and with such evidently genuine good feeling, 
 as to bring a grateful glow to his heart. But such are few and 
 far between. From the rest he turns with relief, to listen once 
 more to the familiar tongues of the never ill-natured trees, to 
 study the rare books, and wish himself better qualified to 
 profit by the sermons of the stones. 
 
 Fig. A represents the best method I know of for setting a 
 gun for a hyena or leopard. This trap is baited with a piece 
 of sinewy meat, tied firmly over the muzzle of the gun (I have 
 used a Snider carbine for the purpose), which should all but, 
 though not quite, pierce the centre of the bait. It is best to
 
 4o6 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 suspend the butt, as shown, so that it swings freely and may 
 be pulled forward without any effort. The two posts driven 
 into the ground, one on each side of the stock, keep it in 
 position, and should be just far enough apart to allow of its 
 sliding easily between them. The trigger being attached by a 
 string to these posts, the animal, on taking the bait, and with 
 it the muzzle, into its mouth, shoots itself neatly. A convenient 
 way of judging the right height for the gun is to go down on 
 hands and knees in front of it, thus impersonating the hyena. 
 Thorny branches must be placed all round it, to prevent the 
 animal approaching from any direction but straight in front. 
 
 Lion Trap for Gap in Fence. 
 
 and there a little path should be left, exactly opposite the 
 muzzle, with a thorny barrier on each side. All can be made 
 ready during the afternoon, and the cartridge slipped in and 
 gun cocked last thing in the evening. 
 
 Fig. B shows the best way of setting a gun at an opening 
 in a fence, as where an animal has been killed by lions and 
 every other entrance blocked except a narrow one in front of 
 the muzzle. The gun is securely tied to posts (or convenient 
 small trees may often be utilised both in this and the previous 
 method) and the trigger tied back to the guard, so that the 
 hammer works freely up and down without cocking. A piece 
 of light, hard wood is then cut, of the shape shown in the 
 drawing, to support the raised hammer, its base resting beside
 
 CAMPING AT EL BOGOI 407 
 
 the nipple or striker. A string from its upper arm is carried 
 across the path, and should hang a little slack, so that when 
 the animal's chest comes against it, the gun will not be fired 
 until its shoulder is about opposite the muzzle. For lions, 
 about 2 feet 3 inches is the right height from the ground for 
 the barrel, which in both cases should be about horizontal. 
 This latter plan of effecting the discharge of the gun is much 
 preferable to any arrangement of levers acting on the trigger. 
 The stick supporting the hammer must, of course, be carefully 
 adjusted so that the trap be set "tickle." This can be tested 
 before the insertion of the cartrido^e.
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 
 
 A mountain excursion — A troublesome lion — My gun-bearer's tragic end — Three- 
 horned giraffe — Grevy's zebra — Varieties of orj'x — Suggestion for British 
 Museum — Equatorial elephants : their size, tusks, and peculiarity — Dimensions 
 of rhinoceros and zebra — Ndorobo conception of the Deity — A native's expecta- 
 tion — Description of country — Parting with Ndorobos — Skittish pack-animals — 
 A compulsory action — Ikutha — Wakamba raiders — Wasanya hunting weapons 
 — A long march — Entering Mombasa — A picturesque procession — Payment of 
 carriers — Valedictory retrospect. 
 
 I HAVE not much more that can interest to relate of this 
 journey. My hand had gradually healed ; so that, though the 
 fingers were still stiff and interfered somewhat with my 
 command of the trigger, I could shoot once more, if not quite 
 up to my previous form. The return of the mail men made it 
 possible, now that the lions were disposed of, for me to make 
 another excursion, to fill up the interval before the return of 
 the caravan from Ukambani should allow of our making a final 
 start for the coast. The second visit which I now made to the 
 western side of the Lorogis, the main purpose of which was to 
 procure some specimens, with the chance also of obtaining a 
 little more ivory, was even more fruitless than the former one, 
 and need not be further alluded to were it not for a calamity 
 which overtook us there, in the loss of my gun-bearer Squareface. 
 Baithai, with another Ndorobo, accompanied me. He unfor- 
 tunately took us somewhat out of our way on the second 
 morning, after sleeping in the mountain forest on the summit
 
 CHAP. XVIII EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 409 
 
 of the range ; so that we did not reach the stream on which I 
 meant to camp, in the open just outside the forest, till noon. 
 My intention was to make a strong " boma " round our camp, 
 believing that, with proper precautions, we should be able to 
 sleep safely ; and that, as soon as an animal for bait could be 
 killed, we might trap the lion which had caused the neighbour- 
 hood to be dreaded by the defenceless Ndorobo stragglers who 
 sometimes wandered hither. At the same time, I did not 
 believe that our party would be in much danger. 
 
 Unluckily, heavy rain came on (during which it is impossible 
 to keep Africans at work), still further delaying our preparations, 
 so that when the evening closed in, cloudy and threatening, the 
 fence was only half built. The grass in the open country was 
 now yellow, and about the stream a good deal of it was old 
 and rather long. My men were camped at the foot of a single 
 tree which grew on a little knoll, my tent being a few yards 
 awa}'. When the young moon went down, it became very dark 
 and showery, and I confess I did not feel very happy, thinking 
 about the man-eating lion and our exposed position. 
 
 There was a fire, as usual, in front of my tent, and the men 
 had collected plenty of wood and had made several all round 
 them, beside which they sat talking till near midnight ; but 
 with their usual carelessness they had all gone to sleep about 
 the same time, so that when I went outside once more, a little 
 before one o'clock, after some fitful and uneasy sleep, all was 
 quiet and only Baithai was still sitting up. I had just awoke 
 from a troubled slumber and a disagreeable dream about a lion 
 invading my camp, and felt uncomfortable. I lay down again, 
 however, and had just gone off again into a light sleep when I 
 was suddenly aroused by the commotion of an attack — this 
 time, alas ! too real — from the lion we had heard so much 
 about. Its growls — such familiar sounds to me now, the 
 meaning of which I knew too well — were mingled with shouts 
 and cries of alarm from the men, and the scuffling noise 
 occasioned by its and their movements. Seizing my rifle, I
 
 4IO ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 rushed out ; but the lion had already disappeared into the 
 darkness. I fired a shot in the direction it had taken, as its 
 growls had indicated, and two of the men fired off their guns 
 immediately after ; there was another growl not far off in 
 response, and it evidently shifted farther away, for the other 
 shots produced no reply and we heard no more of it. I knew 
 what had happened without being told — of course it had taken 
 one of my men ; all I asked was, " Who is it ? " and received 
 the answer that Squareface had been carried off I looked at 
 my watch ; it was 1.15. 
 
 I will not attempt to describe what my feelings were ; they 
 were the more unpleasant that I felt to blame for having ex- 
 posed my men to the risk after being warned. The whole 
 thing was ghastly, and I felt helpless. The men came to my 
 fire, and we sat there for the rest of the night. At last the 
 morning dawned, and I followed — Juma alone accompanying 
 me — the horribly suggestive trail, faintly discernible along a 
 glade in the edge of the forest ; and we soon saw, by the 
 vultures and ravens already settling, where the remains were. 
 This was also a proof that the lion had gone. I will not give 
 further details of the revolting sight, I could hardly bear to look 
 at it myself The lion had evidently been gone some time, as 
 his track was not visible in the wet grass ; he had apparently 
 entered the forest close by, but no spoor could be seen. 
 
 Returning, we found the dejected porters anxious to be off 
 I felt it to be degrading to leave without any further attempt 
 to avenge my man's death ; but it was clear that the men 
 would not stay. Nor could I ask them to sleep another night 
 there (without which there was nothing to be done), for it was 
 my duty to consider the safety of my living followers more 
 than the memory of the one already dead. It was true, as 
 they pointed out, that we had no tools with which we could 
 make, in one day, any safe structure in which they could sleep. 
 Juma endorsed their protest against waiting : " We shall all 
 die, master ! What can we do for him who has finished dying ?
 
 EL BO GO I TO MOMBASA 411 
 
 It is God's command." Such were their arguments. Could I 
 have seen my way to remain without risking their lives, and 
 have convinced them of it, I made no doubt that by staying a 
 few days I could compass the death of that lion and avenge 
 my gun-bearer's tragic end ; but the means were wanting, and 
 I felt constrained to yield to their importunities, for I could not 
 risk losing another man. My things had been already packed 
 during my absence, and we returned sadly to El Bogoi. I 
 asked Bathai that night if the lion was a big one. He spoke 
 no word in reply, but pointed to the trunk of a big tree. 
 
 The morning after our return to El Bogoi some Ndorobos 
 from a distance brought in four more of my long-lost donkeys. 
 They were some of my very best, too, and were rejoiced over 
 the more that we had despaired of ever finding them again, 
 and had given up the search as hopeless. They had been 
 found in the open country between the Seya and the Mathews 
 range, grazing in company with zebras, and were looking as 
 sleek as their late companions do and seemed almost as wild 
 at first. The finders were liberally rewarded. There were still 
 four missing, and these I never recovered ; doubtless they were 
 eaten by lions. 
 
 I was expecting my caravan to return again before very 
 long now. I could get no news of elephants in the surround- 
 ing districts, and there was not time for any lengthy excursion, 
 as I was anxious to be ready to start for the coast immediately 
 Abdulla should arrive. So I devoted myself to preparations, 
 and my shooting was for the purpose of obtaining skins for 
 lashing up loads of ivory, specimens, and meat. Among the 
 specimens was the head of a young bull giraffe, and the skull 
 and skin (entire for mounting) of a Grevy's zebra stallion. 
 These I took some pains to preserve and convey to Mombasa 
 and England with a view to presenting to the Museum, think- 
 ing they might be of interest. The former was eventually 
 accepted ; the other I found was not needed. I chose a not 
 quite fully adult giraffe for this purpose, on account of the
 
 412 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 difficulties of transport, and even it was no slight addition to 
 our impedimenta. However, when anything proves of value 
 one is repaid for the trouble involved in bringing it to the 
 coast ; and this was found to be of some interest, as illustrating 
 points of distinction between the northern and southern species. 
 By kind permission I am enabled to reproduce the engraving 
 of this head, from the Proceedings of the Zoological Society of 
 London, and quote from Mr. W. E. de Winton's Remarks on 
 the subject. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM REMARKS ON THE EXISTING 
 FORMS OF GIRAFFE 
 
 By W. E. DE WiNTON, F.Z.S. 
 
 Froni tJie Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London 
 
 There seems to be some doubt among naturalists in regard to the 
 specific relations of the Giraffes of Nubia and the adjacent countries to 
 those of Africa south of the Equator ; the almost total absence of wild- 
 killed specimens of the northern form during the last half-century, until 
 within the last year or two, is no doubt the reason for the nomenclature 
 of the two species being left in a very unsettled state. 
 
 The exhibition of the skin of a Somaliland animal by Mr. Oldfield 
 Thomas, on behalf of Messrs. Rowland Ward & Co., at a meeting of the 
 Society on 20th February 1894, made me look into the literature on the 
 subject. Since then the British Museum has been fortunate in augmenting 
 the older material by heads of both species received from the actual 
 collectors — Mr. H. A. Bryden having presented a head of the southern 
 form brought home by Khama, killed in the North Kalahari ; and Mr. 
 Arthur H. Neumann a head of the northern form, killed a little to the 
 east of the Lorogi Mountains and north of the Gwaso Nyiro (about i" N. 
 lat.) ; besides w^hich, others have been acquired by purchase. 
 
 "Northern Form," Thomas, P.Z.S. 1894, p. 135; Matschie, Siii/g. 
 Deiitsch-Ost-Af: p. 103 (1895). 
 
 The ground-colour varies from white to fawn ; the dark polygonal 
 markings vary from orange-red to red-chocolate, the edges being even and 
 sharply defined ; the spaces between the dark patches are generally 
 narrower, and always far more clearly defined in aged animals than in 
 those of a similar age in the southern species. The legs below the knees 
 and hocks are white. The males have a third horn in the centre of the
 
 EL BO GOT TO MOMBASA 
 
 413 
 
 forehead just above the eyes, cyhndrical, from 3 to 5 inches long ; in the 
 young animal this position is occupied by a prominent tuft of black hairs. 
 
 Inhabits Gallaland from the Tana River northward, Somaliland, 
 Abyssinia, Kordofan, and probably ranges right across Africa to Sene- 
 gambia, in suitable localities, from the Equator to about i 5° N. 
 
 It will be seen that with the material I have been able to collect, 
 some dozen skins ^ and thirteen skulls of both species of all ages, 
 I cannot give more than a general outline of colouring. The adult 
 
 Three-Horned Giraffe Skull {Giraffa camdopardaiis) 
 
 (From P.Z.S., February iSgy.) 
 
 Southern Giraffe has the general effect of a dirty white animal covered 
 with brown blotches, with wider light spaces between them, the lower legs 
 mottled, and upper face grizzled. The adult Northern Giraffe has clearly 
 defined polj'gonal patches, the light intervening spaces narrower, the lower 
 legs white and upper face roan. 
 
 The horns of the northern species are longer, more massive, and slope 
 backwards more than those of the southern species. I have never seen 
 the two horns of equal length in either species. 
 
 Mr. Selous tells me that he has never seen a bull Giraffe with a third 
 horn in South Africa, and I\lr. Neumann says the same. 
 
 Noticing the great difference in the weight of the skulls of the two 
 
 ' Since writing the above, Messrs. Rowland Ward &. Co. have shown nie about a 
 flozen scalps and neck-skins of the southern form, and they all show the same characters, 
 though the light intervening spaces vary in width.
 
 414 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 sexes, I was curious to put them on the scales : taking the dried skulls of 
 two wild-killed Abyssinian animals, I found that of the male weighed 19 
 lb. 8 oz., while that of the female only weighed 7 lb. 6 oz. The bones of 
 the skull of the female are verj' smooth and thin ; the whole of the upper 
 
 Young Female Giraffe of the Northern Species 
 
 ( Giraffa camelopardalis). 
 (From a Photograph of a Mounted Head.) 
 
 side of the skull of the male is covered with a rough superficial osseous 
 growth, which has its centre in the three horns, gradually enveloping the 
 whole of the upper parts of the skull, forming lumps on the supraoccipital 
 and supraorbital bones, and covering' the face to the end of the nasals and 
 the cheeks, so that all the true bones are completely hidden. 
 
 Mr. Arthur H. Neumann— to whom I am much indebted for loan of
 
 xviii EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 415 
 
 specimens and help in working out the distribution, being well acquainted 
 with the two forms, is perhaps the only hunter who has killed the Two- 
 horned Girafife both in South and East Africa, and also the Three-horned 
 species, having formerly killed Giraffes in South Africa when they were 
 much more plentiful than they now are, and extended farther southward — • 
 tells me that on a journey from Mombasa as far as Usoga, on the route 
 to Uganda, none were noticed but the southern or blotched kind, and that 
 no Giraffes were seen west of the Naivasha Valley, the route taken from 
 Naivasha to Kavirondo being more southerly than that at present followed 
 by caravans. And writing to me on his recent successful hunting expedi- 
 tion to the northern shores of Lake Rudolf, Mr. Neumann says : — " I only 
 observed the southern variety in the neighbourhood of the Athi or Sabaki 
 River ; I had a good view of one a little south of that river. The northern 
 species I found from the Tana River northward as far as I went, namely, 
 to the north end of Bassu (Lake Rudolph) ; I mean, of course, the kind 
 with the defined polygonal pattern. Whether or not there are any of this 
 kind south of the Tana I do not know, but I feel sure that in the direction 
 I went it is the only sort to the north of that river. In some parts, 
 particularly about the Gwaso Nyiro, it is very plentiful, far more so than I 
 have ever seen the southern type anywhere. From a little north of the 
 Lorogi Mountains, I met with no more Giraffes until near the north end 
 of the lake, where I noticed a few in one locality." 
 
 With regard to the possible use of this massive head, 1 was anxious to 
 find out whether the horns are used in fighting. Mr. Neumann says of 
 the Three-horned species the nearest thing to fighting he has seen was 
 two young males playfully butting one another with their heads ; he has 
 seen Giraffes pressed by dogs keeping off their pursuers by kicking with 
 their hind feet in rather a cowish fashion. Mr. Selous, on the other hand, 
 says he once witnessed the following very pathetic incident — a newly- 
 born calf lying in the grass was seized by two Leopards, the mother 
 Giraffe at once coming to the rescue, fought with such effect with \\tx fore 
 feet that she succeeded in driving off the Leopards, but, unfortunately, one 
 blow aimed at the Leopard struck the calf in the back, breaking it. On 
 seeing this the hunter went up and put the poor little beast out of its 
 misery. All hunters agree that the Giraffe never uses its head in self- 
 defence. 
 
 Grevy's zebra is now well known, so far as regards its 
 markings, as many skins have come from Somaliland, but it 
 strikes me that the descriptions our naturalists give of the 
 animal itself are not altogether accurate. As an unscientific 
 observer, I have had great experience of this animal, and
 
 4i6 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 numberless opportunities of comparing it — both alive and 
 dead — with the form of Burchell's (I think called now Grant's) ^ 
 inhabiting the same region, the two species ranging side by 
 side, not only in the same country, but often associating in the 
 same herd ; and I am therefore, perhaps, qualified to judge of 
 the outward appearance of these animals in the flesh. Mounted 
 specimens are of very little value as a means of estimating the 
 size and shape of animals, unless accurate measurements have 
 been taken of the beast when freshly killed, as a guide to the 
 operator in the difficult process of mounting. The skin shrinks 
 out of all shape in drying, and when relaxed ma}' be stretched 
 to anything ; there is nothing more pliable and easily adaptable 
 to any size or form, by suitable manipulation, than a slack 
 hide.' 
 
 I find it stated that Equus grcvyi is a slight, slender beast, 
 approaching to the true or mountain zebra " in build. I have 
 never seen the latter, but have always understood that it is the 
 smallest of the zebras. Now Grevy's is far and away the 
 biggest. So far from being of slight build, it is an immensely 
 powerful upstanding animal, at least twice the size of its small 
 congener. I think the measurements I give are sufficient to 
 prove this. It is more horse-like in its appearance and action 
 than the smaller species, though, curiously, its cry has more 
 resemblance to that of the ass and its ears are larger (the 
 difference being more in width than length, though) than its 
 neighbour's. The hoofs illustrate the difference in type as 
 well as anything. Their paces are also characteristic. The 
 small zebras, when alarmed, start off at a short donkey canter, 
 
 1 I am inclined to think, though, that it differs from that variety (the type of which 
 came from farther south) just as Grant's does from Chapman's. 
 
 - I would suggest that travellers should take careful measurements of rare animals, 
 whose skins they intend to bring home for the purpose of being mounted, immediately 
 after death. Without such aid it is impossible, even for such a skilful and artistic 
 naturalist as Mr. Rowland Ward, to produce a life-like image — true to nature in every 
 proportion — in the case of animals unrepresented in the Zoo. 
 
 ^ (Never found, I believe, an\•^vhere except in the extreme southern end of the 
 continent. )
 
 XVIII 
 
 EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 
 
 417 
 
 the legs appearing to be kept very upright, and unless hard 
 pressed do not " lay themselves out " at all. Grevy's starts 
 off at a trot, with free, high action, and its movements recall 
 those of the horse rather than the ass. Its head is held 
 hjgh, too, while the other keeps a more horizontal position 
 of the neck. I have read that the trot is an acquired pace, 
 peculiar to the domestic horse and not natural to it in its 
 wild state. If so, the paces of Grevy's zebra correspond more 
 with our civilised horses' than can those of their nearer wild 
 relatives'. 
 
 I have often been asked, when mentioning the fact that 
 
 Eqiius biirchclli. Equiis grevyi. 
 
 Zebra Hoofs. 
 
 the two kinds of zebra are frequently found consorting 
 together (it being especially common to see a single stallion 
 grevyi in a troop of the smaller species), whether they do not 
 cross breed. In reply to this question I say, certainly never. 
 Wild animals of distinct species do not interbreed in a state of 
 nature — unless, perhaps, very rarely, under quite exceptional 
 circumstances ; and then, probably, only owing to artificial 
 causes, such as one kind being almost wholly exterminated by 
 man. Even in the few recorded cases, the hybrid animals are 
 often doubtfully so, and may be erroneously called by that 
 name. I do not believe the females allow any such intercourse. 
 That they graze together is nothing extraordinary ; many 
 totally different kinds of herbivorous creatures arc in the habit 
 
 2 E
 
 4i8 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 of feeding in company harmoniousl)- ; indeed, they have a 
 particular predilection for such companionship — it tends to the 
 common safety. Thus, giraffe, zebra, antelopes, and even 
 rhinoceroses, may sometimes be seen in close proximity, and 
 (with, perhaps, the exception of the last) clearly do so from 
 choice, with the object of getting warning from each other of 
 approaching danger ; and — apart from carnivora — wild animals 
 seldom or never resent the mingling of those of other varieties 
 with their herds. But I fancy that, in most cases where a 
 single Grevy's stallion is noticed in company with zebra of the 
 other kind, the latter are all males. Like all such polygamous 
 beasts, the weaker males consort together in separate herds, 
 turned out by the strongest stallions from among the mares. 
 The large male grevyi whose skin I brought to England, 
 and which I had shot among a troop of the small zebra, had 
 his neck all scarred with recent wounds, evidently inflicted by 
 the teeth of a rival, just as horses or donkeys bite each other 
 in fighting. 
 
 Another animal on which it may be worth while to take 
 the opportunity of here remarking is the oryx of these regions. 
 I had always regarded it as the ordinary " beisa," but Messrs. 
 Rowland Ward have pointed out to me that the specimens 
 which I brought home resembled in some respects " callotis," 
 though having no sign of a tassel to the ears. The ears seem 
 somewhat more pointed than those of the Somaliland oryx, 
 the stripe on the cheeks is more defined and descends lower — 
 in some cases meeting the dark patch on the throat,^ — and the 
 animal itself is considerably larger than the typical " beisa," 
 albeit resembling the latter in the shade of its general colouring. 
 Thus this may be an intermediate form, differing slightly 
 from both these accepted species, just as we find a gradation 
 of varieties of the smaller zebras from South to North Africa. 
 It would not surprise me to find that the "topi" of Bassu 
 
 1 There is a certain amount of variation among individuals as to the throat-markings. 
 In one specimen which I have, the dark Hne down the dewlap is absent altogether.
 
 XVIII EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 419 
 
 occupied a similar position in reference to that of the east 
 coast and the western Senegalensis or " korrigum." 
 
 I am convinced that our good friends of the Museum 
 need very much more extensive series of specimens to enable 
 them to judge of the limits and relations of species. Single 
 individuals are not much to go upon, they differ among them- 
 selves to a certain extent in the same locality (I am speaking 
 now not of any particular species), and age is a factor that 
 has to be taken into account, immature specimens being often 
 very misleading. If I may venture to say so (though it is 
 not without fear and trembling that I hazard any suggestion), 
 I think it would be an immense enhancement of the instruct- 
 iveness of our national collection if more specimens of the 
 most interesting varieties of allied species were exhibited in 
 the public galleries. It is true that the authorities are most 
 courteous and obliging in showing any particular specimens 
 to an inquirer ; but, when they are stowed away in private 
 rooms, it prevents any group being examined as a whole, by 
 any one who wishes to study it at leisure without giving 
 trouble. The idea that only representative specimens should 
 be exhibited in the cases is, I think, a mistake ; the display 
 should, I maintain, be made as comprehensive as possible, 
 otherwise the collection can only be, generally speaking, for 
 the benefit of a {Q.yN savants. 
 
 A few of the conclusions which my experience of the 
 elephant of Equatorial Africa has led me to may be worth 
 recording. First, as to size. I believe that in the regions 
 where I have been hunting he attains his greatest dimensions, 
 both as to bodily bulk and weight of ivory. That renowned 
 South African hunter and most careful observer, Mr. F. C. 
 Selous, puts the average height of full-grown bulls at from 
 ten feet to ten feet six inches. I will give the measurements 
 of some I have measured myself, which, while among the 
 largest I have killed, were not, as far as I know, in any sense 
 exceptional, among fully matured bull elephants of these
 
 420 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 regions, nor even, perhaps, the biggest I shot. At the same 
 time, there are undoubtedly larger specimens, as there are 
 smaller ; for the individuals often vary a good deal among 
 themselves. I would premise that to take very accurate 
 measurements of the height of a dead elephant, lying on its 
 side, is not altogether easy. Its feet are of enormous weight, 
 and, with only two or three hands to help, it is by no means 
 easy to keep the knee-joint straight. I can only say that 
 I have striven to be as exact as possible, and aimed rather at 
 being under the mark, and err, if at all, on the safe side, than 
 to exaggerate. 
 
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 EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 
 
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 422 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 I have already given the weights of several of my heaviest 
 pairs of tusks. Those of the big bulls of the exclusive age 
 (that is, old fellows who do not consort with cows) may be 
 expected to weigh on the average about 70 lbs. or 80 lbs. 
 apiece — say from 60 lbs. to 90 lbs. — while " herd-bulls' " teeth 
 scale about 50 lbs. generally. Good cow teeth vary from 
 12 lbs. to 24 lbs. apiece. My heaviest pair of the latter weigh 
 36 lbs. each, but these are quite exceptionally large. The 
 heaviest bull tusk I have weighs i 1 6 lbs., and I got several 
 elephants with tusks of about a hundredweight apiece. The 
 
 Weight. Length. Girth 
 
 
 
 Ihs. 
 
 ft. 
 
 in. 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 (0 
 
 
 116 
 
 Q 
 
 
 
 
 (2) 
 
 
 114 
 
 8 
 
 I 
 
 I y+ 
 
 (3) Cow 
 
 tusks 
 
 36 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 I oi 
 
 My Large Elephant Tusks. 
 
 amount lost in drying varies very much ; the one just mentioned 
 lost only I lb., while another I have, which originally weighed 
 nearly as much, lost 7 lbs. The ivory of very old elephants, I 
 believe, loses less than that of younger animals, but I have found 
 that, as a rule, the difference between fresh and dry only amounts 
 to 2 or 3 lbs., even on a large tooth, in the country I write of 
 Thus it appears that the elephants of the central part of 
 the continent exceed those of both the northern and southern 
 portions — ^judging from what one reads and hears — alike in 
 stature and size of tusks.^ I may add that I have never yet 
 
 1 The heaviest tusks known of seem to have come from East Equatorial Africa — e.g. 
 Sir Edmund Loder's record one of 184 lbs., measuring 9 ft. 5 in. along the curve (and 
 I almost think an even more ponderous specimen was once brought to Zanzibar, though 
 sawn in two pieces), and one of 165 lbs. which was presented to the Duke of York by the 
 officials of British East Africa.
 
 EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 
 
 423 
 
 seen a tuskless elephant of either sex, and I doubt if there are 
 any where I have hunted. 
 
 Another feature which I have noticed, as characteristic of 
 the elephants of these equatorial regions (at all events, on the 
 eastern side of Africa), and in which they seem to differ some- 
 what from those of farther north (I do not know whether the 
 
 The Big Tusk (8 ft. i\ in,, 155 lb- - 1 lk-.ted by the Officers serving 
 IN British East Africa to H.R.H. the Duke of York 
 
 ON THE occasion OF HIS MARRIAGE. 
 (From a Photograph by Mr. J. R. W. Pk;ott.) 
 
 same applies to the southern representatives or not), is the ear. I 
 have been much struck with this difference when conferring with 
 Mr. Caldwell (the artist who has drawn many of my elephant 
 pictures with such painstaking care) on the subject of illustrations 
 for this book ; and from my descriptions and measurements, in
 
 424 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the illustration on page 97, he has succeeded most faithfully in 
 showing this peculiarity. I mean the shape of the upper part 
 of the ear. It will be seen that this curls over backwards in 
 a curve or arch at the top, and hangs behind as a loose flap. 
 Now the elephant in the Zoo (which, I am told, came from 
 North Africa) — and it is, I fancy, from this or former occupants 
 of those stables that most of the illustrations in books are 
 modelled — I say, this familiar representative of elephantine 
 Africa has ears lying on the top of its neck, with a small, flat 
 crease turned over outwards, as if ironed like a collar, on to 
 the front or inside surface. I have never shot an elephant 
 with ears like that ; and I was so much impressed with the 
 difference that I asked the keeper (to whom I am indebted 
 for much interesting information about the animals in his care) 
 whether anything was done to these, but he replied in the 
 negative. The following dimensions of the ear of one of the 
 bulls I shot will exemplify what I have been saying : — 
 
 Depth of ear from tip to top of curl . . . 4 ft. 6 in. 
 
 Depth of ear from tip to extreme end of flap . . 5 ft. 3^ in. 
 
 It will be seen from this measurement that there are 9^ inches 
 of flap hanging over behind, from the top of the curl. This 
 never lies on the neck as in the Zoo specimen, but hangs 
 loosely between the back of the ear and the neck. 
 
 While on the subject of measurements, I will give those I 
 made of rhinoceroses and zebras. The dimensions given of the 
 former animals illustrate the smaller size of the local variety 
 found on the east of Rudolph, while those of the zebras show 
 the great contrast between E. grevyi and the form of BurcJielli 
 (perhaps Granti) found in the same region. It will also be 
 noticed that the difference in size between the male and female 
 rhinoceros is much more marked in length than in height, the 
 male being longer in proportion to his height than the female 
 in both varieties. These measurements were all carefully taken, 
 and entered on the spot in my notebook.
 
 EL BOGOI TO ^MOMBASA 
 
 425 
 
 
 
 Total Length 
 
 Height at 
 
 
 Rhinoceros bicornis. 
 
 without Tail, in 
 
 Shoulder, in 
 
 
 
 Straight Line. 
 
 Straight Line. 
 
 
 Bull shot at El Gereh (Lower Seya), 
 
 10 ft. 
 
 5 ft. 3 in. 
 
 . 
 
 under Mathews Range (7th 
 
 
 
 ? c 
 
 Sept. 1895) 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 Cow shot under Mount Nyiro (26th 
 
 8 ft. 8 in. 
 
 4 ft. 10 in. 
 
 May 1896) 
 
 
 
 
 Bull shot on eastern shore of Bassu 
 
 9 ft. 
 
 4 ft. 9 in. 
 
 — >^ 
 
 (Lake Rudolph), near northern 
 
 
 
 rt .■£ 
 
 end (2 1st Dec. 1895) 
 
 
 
 CO f^ 
 
 Cow shot in same locality as above 
 (24th Dec. 1895) 
 
 8 ft. 3 in. 
 
 4 t. 7 in. 
 
 All the above were old animals. 
 
 
 
 
 Length from 
 
 
 
 Zebra. 
 
 Height at 
 Withers, in 
 
 between Ears 
 to Root of 
 
 Girth behind 
 
 
 
 Straight Line. 
 
 Tail, in 
 Straight Line. 
 
 Shoulder. 
 
 
 f Stallion shot near R. 
 
 4 ft. II in. 
 
 6 ft. 8 in. 
 
 5 ft. 9i in. 
 
 
 Seya (7th August 
 
 (fuh). 
 
 
 
 
 1894) 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stallion shot near 
 
 4 ft. 10 in. 
 
 
 
 
 Mount Nyiro (i 7th 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 Nov. 1895) 
 
 
 
 
 Gre 
 
 Stallion shot near R. 
 
 4 ft. 9i in. 
 
 
 5 ft. 6 in. 
 
 Seya (27th July 
 
 
 
 
 
 1896) 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mare shot near R. 
 
 4 ft. 5 in. 
 
 
 
 
 Seya (26th July 
 
 
 
 
 
 1896) 
 
 
 
 
 
 , Stallion shot near R. 
 
 3 ft. II in. 
 
 
 
 II °.^ 
 
 Seya (26th July 
 
 
 
 
 S E "^ 
 
 1896) 
 
 
 
 
 •i:^'S ^ 
 
 Stallion shot at western 
 
 3 ft. II in. 
 
 5 ft. 7 in. 
 
 4 ft. 10 in. 
 
 2 S :2 
 
 foot of Lorogi 
 
 
 
 
 '•^ S. 
 
 Mountains (i6th 
 I Oct. 1896) 
 
 
 
 
 All these were adult animals.
 
 426 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 Before closing my account of this district, I should like 
 to say a word or two more about the Xdorobo people. Were 
 I a missionary, these are the natives I would choose to labour 
 among. Not that I wish to advocate their being taken up, 
 because our missionary methods tend, too often, to spoil 
 interesting and unsophisticated African races. However, I 
 think there is not much fear of this particular tribe being 
 exploited by us in that way — there would not be enough to 
 show for it. 
 
 To my own sympathy the Ndorobo ideas of the deity 
 strongly appeal in their simplicity. In contrast with the 
 natives of Southern Africa, who cannot be said to have any 
 notion of a Supreme Being, these have a distinct belief in God, 
 and ascribe all events to His ordering. Asked what they know 
 of Him, they told me : " We only know that He made all 
 things. If it rains, we say it is God ; when the wind blows, we 
 say here, too, is God ; and when the white man comes, we say 
 this again is God's doing." Thus : 
 
 " The feeble hands and helpless 
 Groping blindly in the darkness 
 Touch God's right hand in that darkness." 
 
 When parting with my old friend Lesiat — in giving him, 
 amongst other things, a rug off my bed, which I had promised 
 him, when passing on my outward journey, should be his on 
 my return, — I asked him if he would not let one of his sons 
 accompany me to the coast ; telling him that he would be able 
 to learn much, and bring back wonderful accounts of all the 
 marvels he would see, as well as many nice things. He 
 replied that, if he were to give me a boy to go with me, he 
 would expect me to show him the path to heaven, that he 
 might see God and learn from Him how to put a new heart 
 into his father ! 
 
 This striking statement made a great impression on me at 
 first, and I strove (through my interpreter, of course) to elicit 
 some more precise explanation of his meaning. I regret to
 
 xviii EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 427 
 
 have to say that any idea of attaching a spiritual signification 
 to his words was at once dispelled by Lesiat's avowal that he 
 spoke solely of his carnal heart. He simply meant to say that 
 he wished to be brought to life again if he should die. He 
 said, too, that their sons were too useful in searching for wild 
 honey, to be spared. 
 
 Notwithstanding the upsetting of the theory that this pretty 
 little speech was a romantic appeal for religious instruction, 
 Lesiat declared, in reply to my queries, that they would welcome 
 a European to live among them, and that the women and 
 children would come to be taught. There certainly seems an 
 opening for useful work among such raw material. If only 
 they could be induced to cultivate the rich soil at the foot of 
 their mountains, where rain is frequent, the Ndorobos of Lorogi 
 might always have abundance. But I fear me, when taught 
 settled ways of living, they would lose their picturesqueness, 
 and miss the romantic wild life as the forest Indians of Brazil 
 and their little peccaries — reclaimed by the old Jesuit father — 
 missed the shade of the primeval woods. 
 
 I am not one to give an optimistic picture of this or any 
 other district in Equatorial Africa. There are suitable spots 
 here and there at the foot of the Lorogis for stations, where 
 brooks issue from the mountain — soon to sink into the earth, 
 like all streams in this country, but sufficient to irrigate a little 
 of the adjacent rich soil, — and the climate is not a bad one. 
 At the western foot the country is more attractive, though the 
 soil is less fertile ; and water is there more abundant, while the 
 mountain forest (not like an African forest at all) is at hand 
 with useful timber. But all such favoured spots are exceptional 
 in Equatorial Africa — as I know it, — like islands in the desert; 
 there is no extent of useful country. The streams will not 
 flow any distance ; their waters evaporate or become absorbed 
 by the soil. From the Jambeni range and Kenia northward, 
 as far as Bassu and beyond, none of the drainage water ever 
 reaches the ocean — at all events, above ground, — and such
 
 428 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 rivers as have a longer course flow for the most part through 
 barren and unfruitful lands. 
 
 We travellers and pioneers are too fond of giving glowing 
 descriptions of new lands — very lands of promise as they are 
 often represented to be, with every possible advantage and 
 beauty. Probably the country has been seen after rains, when 
 looking its best. One is apt, too, to be captivated the more 
 readily with any verdant belt, by contrast to the parched 
 monotony which is the rule ; for even the most unpromising 
 and arid scrub becomes beautiful and attractive after heavy 
 rains. Anyway, I have noticed that the newest district is 
 praised invariably as the one most desirable spot on earth ; but 
 no sooner is it annexed or occupied, and become familiar, than 
 its ideal perfection vanishes, its drawbacks and disadvantages 
 are then what are heard most of Perhaps this part of the 
 continent has more than its share of waterless waste. Some 
 lovely bits of country there are, it is true. But of how limited 
 extent ! Moreover, as a rule, where well-watered, fertile, and 
 healthy lands exist, they are densely populated already by 
 natives, so that there is no room for colonists. What Africa 
 lacks are ranges of snow mountains to feed perennial rivers, 
 such as would afford unfailing supplies of water for irrigation. 
 With moisture, even the wilderness may blossom as the rose. 
 
 It was with much regret, and the hope of seeing them 
 again some day, that I parted with these pleasant Ndorobo 
 people. Lesiat and other friends gave me abundance of honey 
 for the journey, and invoked God's blessing upon us with 
 pathetic earnestness. I have not a doubt that he is hoarding 
 honey for me now. 
 
 On our way down we found the country drier than I had 
 ever seen it ; no running water where we crossed the Seya, 
 and none between there and the Gwaso Nyiro. Our donkeys 
 — many of them half-wild Turkana asses — were restless and 
 easily scared, and most troublesome during this part of the 
 journey. Xo doubt the terror of the lion attacks had upset
 
 XVIII EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 429 
 
 them. Sometimes they would stampede after game we passed 
 near on the march, causing long delay and hard work before 
 they could be turned and brought back. 
 
 Mnyamiri, who had preceded us, had, I afterwards learned, 
 lost several of his altogether, which had followed a rhino that 
 crossed their path. He was so unfortunate, too, as to get all 
 but one of the remainder drowned in the Tana, when attempting 
 to follow my plan of pulling them through the rapids with a 
 rope. We lost none, but ours gave us little rest when 
 bivouacking in the open, where there was no water and where 
 we could build no boma. They were constantly stampeding 
 through the camp in the night, through taking false alarm. 
 Then they would come and smell out my little store of precious 
 water, and upset it, and even eat my allowance of coarse cake 
 for my morning meal if left on the table. But, thanks to our 
 knowledge of the country, we never suffered, to speak of, even 
 this exceptionally dry season, for lack of water. Our march 
 was uneventful and free from any misfortunes, or even in- 
 conveniences except of a trivial character. 
 
 One afternoon, when passing round the end of the Jambeni 
 range, and within a few hours of the first stream on the Tana 
 side, I was reluctantly compelled to shoot two rhinos within 
 half an hour, for which we had no use. It caused me real 
 pangs of sympathy to take their lives thus ; but each was so 
 close to our path that there was great risk of their causing a 
 stampede of my skittish donkeys, as well as among the porters, 
 though little actual danger to ourselves. For the wind was 
 from them to us, and, unless warned by scent, these blind 
 creatures are too stupid to get out of the way until the caravan 
 is right upon them, when they are likely to cause a scare. 
 Abdulla had experienced such a one on his journey with the 
 first batch of ivory from El Bogoi, with the result that many 
 tusks were thrown down on the stones and several more or less 
 damaged ; Mnyamiri, too, had lost some of his donkeys from 
 the same cause. The .303 bullet was as deadly in the case of
 
 430 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 these two as I have always found it; for these animals especially 
 it seems almost infallible. One sufficed for each. Luckily we 
 met a party of Wakamba just after, to whom the meat was a 
 windfall. They were evidently hungry, as they had just been 
 rescuing from the vultures some zebra bones left by lions ; so 
 the rhinos were not wasted. 
 
 In passing through the Tana bush I saw very few " fly " 
 (tetse) this time (end of August), and in consequence lost only 
 three donkeys on the journey down. From that time on to 
 November or December is the safest to travel with animals 
 through " fly " country, when it is barest. All the rest of mine 
 reached Mombasa in splendid condition and perfect health. It 
 always pays to give special attention to one's animals ; and 
 whether trek oxen in South Africa or pack-donkeys in Equa- 
 torial Africa, I have ever devoted much care to mine and been 
 repaid by their keeping fat and fit. 
 
 We crossed the river without mishap — this time the 
 impassable channel by a bridge — and, meeting fresh men 
 from the coast at Mtiya's with my messengers, were able to 
 continue our way with the whole of our effects from there. At 
 the little German mission station of Ikutha — the first outpost 
 of civilisation reached — though my kind old friend, Mr. 
 Sauberlich, had gone to Europe for a well-earned holiday, I 
 met with a not less hospitable reception from his successors, 
 Mr. and Mrs. Hoffman, than he had always given me, and the 
 most obliging and valuable assistance in obtaining supplies to 
 last us to the coast. I could not take the direct route through 
 the desert from the Athi to join the Uganda road at Samburu, 
 near the coast, as the water had all dried up ; but, having 
 travelled in former years all along that river, I knew that, by 
 following it farther down, I should get a path with water every 
 day to Mombasa, though a little longer ; and it is well worth 
 while going several days round, rather than risk suffering from 
 thirst, and possible disaster, with a heavy caravan. 
 
 In followinef this river route — one little used — down the
 
 XVIII EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 431 
 
 Athi (or Sabaki, as it is more commonly called in its lower 
 course), I met with two instances of the predatory tendencies of 
 the Wakamba, even so near the coast. One day a party of 
 Giriama natives, returning from Machakos, where they had been 
 on a little trading expedition of their own, with nine goats 
 which they had bought (as was testified by the pass they bore, 
 signed by the officer in charge of that station on the main road 
 to Uganda), caught me up. They had fallen in with some 
 Wakamba, who were nominally hunting, but appear to have 
 been in reality highwaymen. These attacked them in the 
 night and carried off their goats, wounding one of the owners as 
 they fled into the scrub. A lad, son of one of the latter, dis- 
 appeared in the confusion, and though his companions sought 
 him for a whole day, after the marauders had retired with 
 their booty, he could not be found, and had to be left to his 
 fate, to die miserably of thirst in the bush. Once thoroughly 
 lost in this flat scrub-covered desert, there would be little 
 chance of a scared child ever finding his way back to the river, 
 in a country strange to him. For, as already observed, natives 
 take no account of the points of the compass, nor observe the 
 position of sun or moon in laying their course through the 
 bush, but go by what they know of the lie of the land, or can 
 remember as to the character of the trees, ground, etc. 
 
 The second raid that came to my knowledge was made on 
 a village or kraal of Wasanya. These people are a tribe of 
 degraded Galas, who live mainly by hunting. They occupy 
 the same position in relation to the stock-owning Galas as the 
 Ndorobos do towards the Masai. Two or three of them came 
 into my camp one day, and told me that some Wakamba had 
 lately attacked their kraal and carried off two women captive. 
 This account was confirmed independently by a woman of 
 the same tribe, whom I saw afterwards at the first Giriama 
 village we reached. 
 
 The Wasanya are remarkable for carrying immensely 
 powerful bows, and most serviceable-looking arrows. These
 
 432 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 weapons contrast strikingly with the short light bows and 
 arrows used by most Central African natives. It must require 
 great force to draw one of these formidable engines properly ; 
 and one can well understand that those skilled in their use, 
 with the additional aid of poison on the missile, may kill — as 
 they say they do — both elephants and rhinoceroses without 
 much difficult}'. That both these animals frequent the river, 
 especially during periods of drought, I had evidence in their 
 tracks. Once I came upon quite fresh elephant spoor ; but as 
 it was only of cows and calves I did not follow it. I might 
 have done so, on the chance of finding a young bull or a cow 
 worth shooting, but that I was lame at the time from my ankle 
 (which had been sprained in my encounter with the elephant) 
 having got worse again. 
 
 As proof of how thoroughly inured to carr}'ing their tusks 
 my men had become, I may instance the march we made the 
 day we left the river, when the distance to the first water was 
 considerable. The entry for that day (26th September) runs 
 as follows in my diary : — " Got up at 2 A.M. and started at 
 3.15, After four hours' going waited for the 'safari,' but 
 the men would not stop and we went on for another hour 
 before resting, having thus done five hours' solid marching 
 without a halt. Then, after a fifteen minutes' spell, did three 
 hours more ; rested half an hour and on to camp, which the 
 caravan reached at 1.45. Thus we did close on ten hours' 
 clear marching, the greater part of the way through dense bush, 
 the narrow path often a good deal overhung." 
 
 At last, on ist October, we once more entered Mombasa; 
 and the men — decked in showy clothes, and headed by 
 drummers hammering out, in perfect time, the regular "safari" 
 beat — enjoyed the long-looked-forward-to parade through the 
 streets. And a picturesque sight it is to see a string of 
 porters, with gleaming ivory arcs on their shoulders, threading 
 slowly the narrow streets, thronged with dusky but cleanly- 
 clad onlookers ; the leading men jumping up and dancing
 
 EL BOGOI TO MOMBASA 
 
 433 
 
 about with their hundred-weight tusks, to show off before their 
 admiring female friends. Indeed, it is often difficult to get 
 them along at all, so proud and excited are they at entering 
 their metropolis again after all the adventures of so long a 
 journey ; and custom allows the " kilangozi " (or leading 
 porter) to refuse to move until backsheesh of rupees has been 
 sent to entice him to proceed with the caravan to deposit their 
 loads at the custom-house. That done, I give each man a 
 rupee by way of " posho " for the day, and they disperse to 
 make merry among their friends in the town. A weighty bag 
 
 Mombasa. 
 
 (From a Photograph by Major Eric Smith.) 
 
 of silver has to be ready for them when they reassemble at my 
 quarters the following morning to receive their pay. Careless, 
 confiding fellows these porters ; they make no attempt to 
 calculate how much is due to them nor ever think of counting 
 over what they receive. The one whose name is called holds 
 out the corner of his cloth for the double handful of rupees, 
 twists it up without a word, and off he goes — in most 
 instances to squander recklessl)- the reward of a year or more's 
 service. 
 
 I had no deductions to make from my men's wages, except 
 for the advances they had before starting on the expedition ; 
 
 2 F
 
 434 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 for I had felt that the least I could do in gratitude for their 
 good behaviour and kindness during my illness was to give 
 them such cloth as they required without — as is customary — 
 entering it against them. Any extra presents, too, were much 
 better appreciated in that form, given up country where little 
 additions to their fare could be obtained by these means ; and 
 though in particular cases one felt it a duty to add something 
 to the amount actually due, as an acknowledgment of special 
 services, the conviction that such liberality is thrown away 
 destroys the pleasure of bestowing rewards of the kind, and I 
 think to do so is really a mistake, and, so far from being 
 valued, tends to lower one in the opinion of the average 
 Swahili. 
 
 The time to give is when they have nothing : then they are 
 capable of gratitude ; but ten, twenty, or fifty rupees more or 
 less when their hands are already full of more than they can 
 eat in the next week, they are incapable of feeling any concern 
 about. Probably in a month the money will all be gone — a 
 month of luxury and licence, as they know it : then one 
 rupee will be thankfully received. By that time or a little 
 later most of them will be ready to " write on " again for 
 another expedition. One gets fond of one's men, and proud 
 of them when they are good ones, as mine were ; and I was 
 sorry not to be able to engage them again before they had 
 drifted into other service. 
 
 I fear the fact that my journey was attended with so few 
 serious difficulties or privations detracts from its interest to 
 others ; but it is a source of considerable satisfaction to me 
 to think that my men never suffered from either hunger, thirst, 
 or disease ; that they got their regular ration daily, without 
 our having ever raided or taken anything from the natives by 
 force ; that they carried their loads willingly, cheerfully, and 
 without suffering ; and that, with the exception of the two 
 whose tragic loss I had to mourn, I brought them all back, 
 safe, sound, and happy, to Mombasa. They on their part had
 
 EL BOGOl TO MOMBASA 
 
 435 
 
 been as good as gold to me while I was ill, and I feel the 
 greatest gratitude to them for their kindly feeling towards me. 
 I tried to treat them as well as I could, and they amply repaid 
 me, and would, I know, follow me anywhere to-morrow. I 
 only wish 1 could entertain the same confidence in regard to 
 my enduring reader ! 
 
 The Author.
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 A LIST OF THE LEPIDOPTERA COLLECTED 
 BY MR. ARTHUR H. NEUMANN 
 
 By Emily Mary Sharpe 
 
 The following is a list of the butterflies collected by Mr. Arthur H. 
 Neumann on his journey to Lake Rudolph. They were collected in 
 the country between Mombasa and the north end of Lake Rudolph, but 
 the greater part were obtained around Mount Kenia, the Jambeni 
 range, and the Lorogi Mountains, during the years 1894, 1895, 
 and 1896. 
 
 Mr. Neumann was successful in getting three new species of butter- 
 flies belonging to the genera Mylofhris, Catachrysops, and Mycalesis. 
 The latter was first procured by Mr. F. J. Jackson in Kikuyu and 
 Kavirondo, and Mr. Neumann has been kind enough to give a figure 
 of it. A coloured plate of these species is given at p. 66. 
 
 Family Danaid/E. 
 Tirumala petiverana. 
 
 Danais petiverana (Doubl. and Hewits.), Kirby, SynoHy/iiic Catalogue 
 of Diurnal Lcpidoptera, p. 4 (1871). 
 Limnas klugii. 
 
 Limnas klugii, Butler, F.Z.S. 1885, p. 758. 
 Limnas dorippus. 
 
 Danais dorippus (Klug.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 7 (187 i). 
 Amauris ochlea. 
 
 Amauris ochlea (Boisd.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 8 (1871). 
 Amauris dominicanus. 
 
 Amauris dominicanus, Trimen, South African Butterflies, vol. i. p. 61 
 (1887).
 
 438 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Family Satyrid^. 
 Melanitis solandra. 
 
 Melanitis solandra (Fabr.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 44 (187 1). 
 
 Gnophodes parmeno. 
 
 Gnophodes parmeno (Doubl. and Hevvits.), Kirbv, op. cit. p. 43 
 (1871). 
 Mycalesis dentata, sp. n. (Figs. 4, 4<7, 5 on plate, p. 66.) 
 
 Both wings entirely dark brown on the upper side ; a dull 
 ochreous patch near the apical portion of the fore-wing, but not 
 very distinct ; two submarginal lines, one light brown and the 
 second much darker, strongly marked on the hind-wing. The 
 hind margin of both wings very much dentated, approaching 
 M. suassurri, Dewitz, in appearance. 
 
 Under side : basal area very dark brown, ending in a wavy 
 line which extends from the costa to the inner margin of the 
 hind-wing, above the discoidal cell ; the marginal border lighter 
 in tint, suffused with ochreous yellow ; a slightly sinuated line 
 traversing the submarginal border, and a larger patch of the same 
 colour near the apex. Three distinct white-pupilled black ocelli, 
 with a yellow iris encircled with dark brown, the outer portion 
 again encircled with a violaceous gloss. Of the ocelli near the 
 apex, the lower one is very minute, the third being large and 
 between the first and third median nervules. 
 
 Hind-wing very similar to the fore-wing, but with no ochreous 
 shading. A complete submarginal row of ocelli from the costal 
 margin to the submedian nervure, varying in size, the smallest 
 being between the second and third median nervules. All these 
 ocelli have the yellow iris surrounded with brown and a violaceous 
 gloss as in the fore-wing ; there is an additional ocellus, very 
 minute on the inner margin, just above the anal angle. 
 
 Hab. $ Kavirondo. Nov.-Dec. 1889. Expanse, 1.7 inch. 
 
 The female is very similar to the male, somewhat larger, and 
 paler in colour. The ochreous-yellow apical patch on the under 
 side is rather larger and a little deeper in colour (only one ocellus 
 being visible near the apex), and has a minute spot above and 
 below. The submarginal row of ocelli on the hind-wing are not 
 quite so large, and the two between the second and third median 
 nervules and the discoidal nervule are almost obsolete. 
 
 Hab. $ Kikuyu. Aug.-Sept. 1889. Expanse, 1.9 inch. 
 
 Types in Coll. F. J. Jackson. 
 
 (My specimen was obtained in Embe on the Jambeni range. 
 —A. H. N.) 
 
 Mycalesis caffra. 
 
 Mycalesis caffra, Wallgr., Kirby, op. cit. p. 88 (187 1).
 
 APPENDIX 439 
 
 Mycalesis perspicua. 
 
 Mycalesis perspicua (Trimen), Kirby, op.cit. Suppl. p. 707 (1877). 
 
 Neocasnyra duplex. 
 
 Neocaenyra duplex, Butler, P.Z.S. 1894, p. 560, pi. xxxvi. fig. i. 
 
 Neocsenyra gregorii. 
 
 Neocaenyra gregorii, Butler, P.Z.S. 1894, p. 560, pi. xxxvi. fig. 2. 
 
 Ypthima asterope. 
 
 Ypthima asterope (Klug.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 94 (1871). 
 
 Family Acr^id^. 
 Acrsea natalica. 
 
 Acreea natalica, Boisd., Kirby, op. cit. p. 132 (187 i). 
 
 Acraea neobule. 
 
 Acraea neobule, Doubl. and Hewits., Kirby, op. cit. p. 130 (187 1). 
 Acraea pudorina. 
 
 Acraea pudorina, Staudinger, Exot. Schmett. p. 84, pi. 2)Z (1S88). 
 
 Acraea braesia. 
 
 Acrasa braesia, Godman, P.Z.S. 1885, p. 538. 
 
 Acraea doubledayi. 
 
 Acraea doubledayi, Guer., Kirby, op. cit. p. 131 (187 1). 
 
 Acraea anemosa. 
 
 Acraea anemosa, Hewits., Kirby, op. cit. p. 132 (187 1). 
 
 Acraea caecilia. 
 
 Acraea caecilia (Fabr.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 131 (1871). 
 
 A-craea mirabilis. 
 
 Acraea mirabilis, Butler, P.Z.S. 1886, p. 760. 
 
 Acraea serena. 
 
 Acraea serena (Fabr.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 132 (1877). 
 
 Acraea cabira. 
 
 Acraea cabira, Hopff., Kirby, op. cit. p. 132 (187 1). 
 
 Planema johnstoni. 
 
 Planema johnstoni (Godman, P.Z.S. 1885, p. 537). 
 
 Planema monteironis. 
 
 Acraea monteironis (Butler), Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 719 (1S77). 
 
 Planema montana. 
 
 Planema montana, Butler, P.Z.S. 1888, p. 91. 
 
 Pardopsis punctatissima. 
 
 Acraea punctatissima, Boisd., Kirby, op. cit. p. 132 (1871).
 
 440 ELEPHANT-HUXTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Family Nymphalid/E. 
 Lachnoptera ayresii. 
 
 Lachnoptera ayresii, Trimen, South African Butterflies^ vol. i. p. 196, 
 pi. iii. fig. 5 (1887). 
 Atella phalantha. 
 
 Atella phalantha (IJrury), Kirby, op. cit. p. 154 (187 1). 
 Atella columbina. 
 
 Atella columbina (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 154 (187 i). 
 Argynnis hanningtoni. 
 
 Argynnis hanningtoni, Ehves, Trans. E?it. Soc. 1889, p. 558. 
 Pyrameis abyssinica. 
 
 Pyrameis abyssinica, Feld., Kirby, op. cit. p. 185 (1871). 
 Pyrameis cardui. 
 
 Pyrameis cardui (Linn.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 185 (187 i). 
 Eurema commixta. 
 
 Eurema commixta, Butler, Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. (5), vol. v. p. 
 363 (1880). 
 Junonia cebrene. 
 
 Junonia cebrene, Trimen, t.c. vol. i. p. 210 (1887). 
 Junonia clelia. 
 
 Junonia clelia (Cram.), Kirby, op. «'/. p. 187 (1871). 
 Junonia boopis. 
 
 Junonia boopis, Trimen, t.c. vol. i. p. 217, pi. iv. fig. 2 (1887). 
 Precis gregorii. 
 
 Precis gregorii, Butler, P.Z.S. 1895, p. 726, pi. xlii. figs. 7, 8. 
 Precis micromera. 
 
 Junonia micromera, Butler, Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. (4), vol. 
 xviii. p. 482 (1876). 
 Precis aurorina. 
 
 Junonia aurorina, Butler, P.Z.S. 1893, p. 651, pi. Ix. fig. 3. 
 Precis pelasgis. 
 
 Precis pelasgis (Godt.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 190 (187 1). 
 Precis elgiva. 
 
 Precis elgiva (Hewits.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 189 (1871). 
 Precis natalica. 
 
 Precis natalica, Feld., Kirby, op. cit. p. 190 (1871). 
 Precis amestris. 
 
 Precis amestris (Drury), Kirby, op. cit. p. 189 (1871). 
 Precis sesamus. 
 
 Precis sesamus, Trimen, t.c. vol. i. p. 231, pi. iv. fig. 3 (1887). 
 Precis calescens. 
 
 Junonia calescens, Butler, P.Z.S. 1893, p. 652.
 
 APPENDIX ' 441 
 
 Precis cloantha. 
 
 Precis cloantha (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 191 (1871). 
 
 Precis pyriformis. 
 
 Precis pyriformis, Butler, P.Z.S. 1895, p. 726, pi. xlii. figs. 5, 6. 
 
 Precis taveta. 
 
 Precis taveta, ^o^o.viSxo'iQX^Ann.Hof.Miis. ]Vien,\\. p. 460, pi. xv. fig. 7. 
 
 Precis cuama. 
 
 Precis cuama (Hewits.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 191 (1871). 
 
 Salamis aglatonice. 
 
 Salamis aglatonice (Godt.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 192 (1871). 
 Salamis anacardii. 
 
 Salamis anacardii (Linn.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 192 (1871). 
 Eurytela dryope. 
 
 Eurytela dryope (Cram.), Kirhy, op. cit. p. 194 (1871). 
 Eurytela ophione. 
 
 Eurytela ophione (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 195 (187 i). 
 Hypanis ilithyia. 
 
 Hypanis ilithyia (Drury), Kirby, op. cit. p. 196 (1871). 
 Hypolimnas misippus. 
 
 Hypolimnas misippus (Linn.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 225 (1871). 
 Neptis agatha. 
 
 Neptis agatha (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. \\ 242 (1871). 
 Euryphene cocalia. 
 
 Euryphene cocalia (Fabr.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 246 (187 i). 
 Euryphene achlys. 
 
 Harma achlys, Hopff. Ber. Verh. Ak. Berl. 1855, p. 641. 
 Euryphene violacea. 
 
 Euryphene violacea, Butler, P.Z.S. 1888, p. 91. 
 Hamanumida d^edalus. 
 
 Hamanumida dredalus (Fabr.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 249 (1871). 
 Charaxes neanthes. 
 
 Nymphalis neanthes, Hewits., Kirby, op. cit. p. 273 (187 1). 
 Charaxes zoolina. 
 
 Nymphalis zoolina, Doubl. and Hewits., Kirby, op. cit. p. 273 (187 i). 
 Charaxes saturnus. 
 
 Nymphalis saturnus (Butler), Kirby, op. cit. p. 267 (187 i). 
 Charaxes candiope. 
 
 Nymphalis candiope, Godt., Kirby, op. cit. p. 268 (187 1). 
 Charaxes brutus. 
 
 Nymphalis brutus (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 268 (1871). 
 Charaxes castor. 
 
 Nymphalis castor (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 267 (1871).
 
 442 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Charaxes kirkii. 
 
 Charaxes kirkii, Butler, Etit. Month. Mag. xviii, p. 105 (1881). 
 Charaxes varanes. 
 
 Palla varanes (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 274 (187 1). 
 
 Family Lyc^nid^. 
 Axiocerces perion. 
 
 Axiocerces perion (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 338 (187 1). 
 Lycaena jobates. 
 
 Cupido jobates (Hopff.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 349 (187 i). 
 Lycsena lingeus. 
 
 Cupido lingeus (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 350 (1871). 
 Lycsena trochilus. 
 
 Cupido trochilus (Frey.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 357 (187 1). 
 Lycaena palemon. 
 
 Plebeius palemon (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 765 (1871). 
 Lycaena gaika. 
 
 Cupido gaika (Trimen), Kirby, op. cit. p. 362 (187 1). 
 Lycaena knysna. 
 
 Lycsena knysna, Trimen, Trajis. Ejit. Soc. sen 3, vol. i. p. 282 (1862). 
 Lycaena stellata. 
 
 Lycaena stellata, Trimen, t.c. vol. ii. p. 49 (1887). 
 Lycaena pulchra. 
 
 Plebeius pulchra (Murr.), Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 772 (1877). 
 Lycaena jesous. 
 
 Cupido jesous (Gue'r.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 351 (1871). 
 Lycaena beeticus. 
 
 Cupido basticus (Linn.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 354 (1871). 
 Lycaena patricia. 
 
 Lycaena patricia, Trimen, t.c. vol. ii. p. 20 (1887). 
 Catachrysops cuprescens, sp. n. (Figs. 3, 30: on plate, p. 66.) 
 
 Allied to C. osiris, Hopff., and wings rather more pointed ; 
 the blue basal area hardly visible, both wings being suffused with 
 a coppery lustre. 
 
 Costa and hind margins darker ; two orange-yellow spots with 
 black centres, near the anal angle on the hind-wing, between the 
 first and second median nervule and the submedian nervure. 
 
 Under side : similar to that of C. osiris, rather more heavily 
 marked, the basal area of the hind-wing darker, with an extra black 
 spot, close to the base, on the inner margin. 
 
 The white discal band wider and not so hastate in shape ; the 
 two orange-yellow spots having the black centres outlined with a 
 metallic blue instead of green. 
 Expanse, i.i inch. 
 Hab. Lorogi Mountains (1894).
 
 APPENDIX 443 
 
 Castalius gregorii. 
 
 Castalius gregorii, Butler, P.Z.S. 1894, p. 598, pi. xxxvi. fig. 3. 
 Castalius margaritaceus. 
 
 Castalius margaritaceus, E. M. Sharpe, P.Z.S, 189 1, p. 636, pi. 
 xlviii. fig. 3. 
 Hyreus cordatus. 
 
 Hyreus cordatus, E. M. Sharpe, P.Z.S. 189 1, p. 636, pi. xlviii. 
 fig. 4. 
 Spindacis ella. 
 
 Aphnaeus ella, Hewits., Kirby, op. cit. p. 404 (187 i). 
 lolaus bowkeri. 
 
 lolaus bowkeri (Trimen), Kirby, op. cit. p. 409 (187 1). 
 
 Family Pierid.^. 
 
 Nychitona alcesta. 
 
 Pontia alcesta (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 439 (187 i). 
 Nychitona dorothea. 
 
 Pontia dorothea (Fabr.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 439 (1871). 
 Terias zoe. 
 
 Eurema zoe, Hopff., Kirby, op cit. p. 448 (187 1). 
 Terias regularis. 
 
 Eurema regularis (Butler), Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 791 (1877). 
 Terias orientis. 
 
 Terias orientis, Butler, P.Z.S. 1888, p. 71. 
 Pieris boguensis. 
 
 Pieris boguensis, Feld., Kirby, op. cit. p. 457 (187 1). 
 Pieris severina. 
 
 Pieris severina (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 457 (187 1). 
 Pieris lordaca. 
 
 Pieris lordaca. Walker, Entom. v. p. 48. 
 Pieris contracta. 
 
 Glutophrissa contracta, Butler, P.Z.S. 1888, p. 75. n. 102. 
 Pieris zochalia. 
 
 Pieris zochalia, Boisd., Kirby, op. cit. p. 457 (187 i). 
 Pieris gidica. 
 
 Pieris gidica, Godt, Kirby, op. cit. p. 457 (187 i). 
 Pieris abyssinica. 
 
 Pieris abyssinica, Lucas, Kirby, op. cit. p. 457 (1871). 
 Pieris thysa. 
 
 Tachyris thysa (Hopff.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 464 (187 1). 
 Pinacopteryx orbona. 
 
 Pieris orl^ona (Geyer), Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 793 (1877).
 
 444 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Pinacopteryx pigea. 
 
 Pieris pigea, Boisd., Kirby, oJ>. cit. p. 455 (1871). 
 Pinacopteryx simana. 
 
 Pieris simana, Hopff., Kirby, op. cit. p. 456 (1871). 
 Mylothris agathina. 
 
 Tachyris agathina (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 464 {1871). 
 Mylothris neumanni. (Figs, i, \a, 2, 2a on plate, p. 66.) 
 
 Mylothris neumanni, E. M. Sliarpe, Atui. and Mag. Nat. Hist. (6), 
 vol. xvii. p. 125 (1896). 
 Mylothris jacksoni. 
 
 Mylothris jacksoni, E. M. Sharpe, F.Z.S. 1891, p. 190, pi. xvi. 
 fig- 3- 
 Eronia leda. 
 
 Eronia leda, Doubl., Kirby, op. cit. p. 480 (18 71). 
 Eronia buguetii. 
 
 Eronia buguetii (Boisd.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 481 (187 1). 
 Eronia cleodora. 
 
 Eronia cleodora, Hubn., Kirby, op. cit. p. 480 (187 1). 
 Eronia dilatata. 
 
 Eronia dilatata, Butler, F.Z.S. 1888, p. 96. 
 Catopsilia florella. 
 
 Catopsilia florella (Fabr.), Kirby, op. cit p. 481 (187 1). 
 Colias electra. 
 
 Colias electra (Linn.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 490 (1871). 
 Teracolus Calais. 
 
 Teracolus Calais (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 499 (187 1). 
 Teracolus ocellatus. 
 
 Teracolus ocellatus, BwlXer, F.Z.S. 1885, p. 767. 
 Teracolus castalis. 
 
 Teracolus castalis, Staud., Exot. Schmett. p. 43, pi. xxiii. (1884). 
 Teracolus chrysonome. 
 
 Idmais chrysonome (Klug.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 498 (1871). 
 Teracolus aurigineus. 
 
 Teracolus aurigineus, Butler, Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. (5), vol. 
 xii. p. 103 (1883). 
 Teracolus mutans. 
 
 Teracolus mutans, Butler, Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. (4), vol. xix. 
 P- 459 (1877)- 
 Teracolus catachrysops. 
 
 Teracolus catachrysops, Butler, Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. (5), vol. 
 ii. p. I 78 (1878). 
 Teracolus protomedius. 
 
 Teracolus protomedia (Klug.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 500 (1871).
 
 APPENDIX 445 
 
 Teracolus puniceus. 
 
 Teracolus puniceus, Butler, P.Z.S. 1894, p. 573, pi. xxxvi. figs. 
 5,6. 
 Teracolus phlegyas. 
 
 Callosune phlegyas (Butler), Kirby, op. cit. p. 500 (1871). 
 Teracolus imperator. 
 
 Callosune imperator (Butler), Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 804 (1877). 
 Teracolus celimene. 
 
 Callosune celimene (Lucas), Kirby, op. cit. p. 504 (187 i). 
 Teracolus hildebrandti. 
 
 Teracolus hildebrandti, Staudinger, Exot. Schviett. \. p. 44, pi. xxiii. 
 (1888). 
 Teracolus phcenius. 
 
 Callosune phcenius (Butler), Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 805 (1877). 
 Teracolus miles. 
 
 Teracolus miles, Butler, Aim. a?id Mag. Nat. Hist. (5), vol. xii. 
 p. 105 (1883). 
 Teracolus omphaloides. 
 
 Callosune omphaloides (Butler), Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 805 (1S77). 
 Teracolus omphale. 
 
 Callosune omphale (Godt.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 502 (1871). 
 Teracolus ignifer. 
 
 Callosune ignifer (Butler), Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 804 (1877). 
 Teracolus evenina. 
 
 Callosune evenina (Wallgr.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 502 (187 i). 
 Teracolus minans. 
 
 Teracolus minans, Butler, Ent. Month. Mag. xviii. p, 229 (1882). 
 Teracolus sipylus. 
 
 Teracolus sipylus, Swinhoe, P.Z S. 1884, p. 444, pi. xl. fig. 11. 
 Teracolus heliocaustus. 
 
 Teracolus heliocaustus, Butler, P.Z.S. 1885, p. 768, pi. xlvii. figs. 
 8, 9. 
 Teracolus phillipsi. 
 
 Teracolus phillipsi, Butler, P.Z.S. 1885, p. 772, pi. xlvii. fig. 11. 
 Teracolus incretus. 
 
 Teracolus incretus, Butler, P.Z.S. 1888, p. 93. 
 Teracolus leo. 
 
 Anthocharis leo, Butler, Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. (3), xvi. p. 397 
 (1865). 
 Teracolus eris. 
 
 Idmais eris (Klug.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 499 (1871). 
 Herpa;nia iterata. 
 
 Herptenia iterata, Butler, P.Z.S. 1888, p. 96.
 
 446 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Family Papilionid^. 
 Pcapilio brontes. 
 
 Papilio brontes, Godman, P.Z.S. 1885, p. 540. 
 Papilio nireus. 
 
 Papilio nireus, Linn., Kirby, op. cit. p. 562 (1871). 
 Papilio jacksoni. 
 
 Papilio jacksoni, E. M. Sharpe, P.Z.S. 1891, p. 188, pi. xvii. figs, i, 2. 
 
 Papilio cenea. 
 
 Papilio cenea, Stoll., Kirby, op. cit. p. 563 (1871). 
 Papilio dionysos. 
 
 Papilio (?) dionysos, Doubl. and Hevvits., Kirby, op. cit. p. 564 (187 1). 
 
 Papilio mackinnoni. 
 
 Papilio mackinnoni, E. M. Sharpe, P.Z.S. 1891, p. 187, pi. xvi. 
 
 fig- I- 
 Papilio colonna. 
 
 Papilio colonna. Ward, Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 812 (1877). 
 
 Papilio nyassas. 
 
 Papilio nyassffi, Butler, Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. App. p. 860 (1877). 
 
 Papilio policenes. 
 
 Papilio policenes, Cram., Kirby, op. cit. p. 5 58 (1871). 
 Papilio demoleus. 
 
 Papilio demoleus, Linn., Kirby, op. cit. p. 543 (187 i). 
 
 Papilio phorcas. 
 
 Papilio phorcas. Cram., Kirby, op. cit. p. 563 (1871). 
 Papilio constantinus. 
 
 Papilio constantinus. Ward, Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 812 (1877). 
 Papilio ophidicephalus. 
 
 Papilio ophidicephalus (Oberth.), Trimen, t.c. vol. iii. p. 229 (1889). 
 
 Family He.sperid/E. 
 
 Rhopalocampta anchises. 
 
 Ismene anchises, Gerst., Kirby, op. cit. Suppl. p. 819 (1877). 
 Rhopalocampta forestan. 
 
 Ismene forestan (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 581 (1871). 
 Rhopalocampta hanno. 
 
 Rhopalocampta hanno, Plotz., Stettin. Ent. Zeitschr. vol. xl. p. 340 
 
 (1879). 
 Leucochitonea levubu. 
 
 Leucochitonea levubu, Wallgr., Kirby, op. cit. p. 618 (187 i). 
 Celaenorrhinus biseriatus. 
 
 Plesioneura biseriata, Butler, P.Z.S. 1888, p. 97.
 
 APPENDIX 447 
 
 Gegenes letterstedti. 
 
 Pamphila letterstedti (Wallgr.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 599 (18 71). 
 Pamphila inconspicua. 
 
 Pamphila inconspicua (Bert.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 605 (187 i). 
 Sarangesa pertusa. 
 
 Sarangesa pertusa, Mabille, C.R. Soc. Ent. Belgium, 1891, p. 68. 
 Caprona canopus. 
 
 Caprona canopus, Trimen, Kirby, op. cit. p. 634 (1871). 
 Caprona pillaana. 
 
 Caprona pillaana, Wallgr., Kirby, op. cit. p. 634 (1871). 
 Cyclopides quadrisignatus. 
 
 Cyclopides quadrisignatus, Butler, F.Z.S. 1893, p. 670, pi. Ix. 
 fig. 9. 
 Nisoniades djaelslie. 
 
 Nisoniades djaelgelse (Wallgr.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 630 (187 1). 
 Nisoniades motozi. 
 
 Nisoniades motozi (Wallgr.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 630 (187 i). 
 Pyrgus spio. 
 
 Hesperia spio (Linn.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 616 (1871). 
 Pyrgus diomus. 
 
 Hesperia diomus (Hopff.), Kirby, op. cit. p. 615 (1871). 
 Pyrgus vindex. 
 
 Hesperia vindex (Cram.), Kirby, op. cit p. 615 (1871).
 
 INDEX 
 
 Abdulla, author's Swahili headman, 
 133. 135. I4S> 167, 213, 224, 226, 
 248, 286, 404 
 
 Adventures with elephants, 187, 322, 
 350 ; with snake, 254 ; with lions. 
 
 233. 391, 397 
 
 Africa, Central, average English idea of 
 location, I ; transport, 7, 48, 351 ; 
 cattle plague in, 27, 1 17, 142, 253, 
 333 ; author's dealings with natives, 78, 
 226 ; luxuries in, 329, ^^;^ ; slavery, 
 330 ; description of country, 427 
 
 Africa, South-Eastein, author's previous 
 knowledge of, 5 
 
 Air-currents, Xdorobo mode of testing, 
 96 ; author's, 96, 1 12 
 
 Alia Bay, 272, 274, 373 
 
 Ammunition, author's observations on, 
 121, 336 ; South African native's, 121 
 
 "Angata" {sci: "Ongata") 
 
 Ant-heaps, 284, 294, 297, 355, 358 
 
 Athi River, 138, 431 ; author road- 
 cutting at, 141 ; varieties of guinea- 
 fowl at, 142 
 
 Baboons, 53, 146, 163 
 
 Baikenda, headman at Laiju, II, 12 
 
 Baithai, an Xdorobo, 172, 213, 214, 218, 
 
 225, 235, 388 
 Bananas, I2> 31, 77, 120; native mode 
 
 of cooking, 126 
 Baobabs, 82 ; for hanging bee-tubs, 144 ; 
 
 suitability for canoes, 151 
 " Bara," derivation, 394 no/e 
 Barasaloi River, 177, 184, 192, 198, 
 
 248, 385 
 "Bari)ers, "" 26, 267 ; jiroportions, 338 
 Baringo, 30, 256 
 Barta spruit, 384 
 
 Barter, medium for, 134, 263, 26S, 312, 
 
 329, 376 
 Bassu (Lake Rudolph), 256, 266, 273, 
 
 289, 331, 378 ; description, 257, 382 ; 
 
 stone circles at, 258 ; author's illness 
 
 at, 332 
 Batshada, 302 
 Bawdo, a Kere native, 314 
 Bee-eaters {Merops tndncits), rose- 
 coloured, 280; pursuit of prey, 281, 
 
 340 ; green, 280 
 Bees, 104, 245, 24S ; author attacked by, 
 
 57 
 Beetles, 332 
 Bee-tubs, 57, 245 ; trees for hanging, 
 
 144 ; tapping, 248 
 "Biltong," 19, 23, 27, 51, 285, 364; 
 
 curing, 365 note 
 " Blood -brotherhood," author's, 11, 42, 
 
 78, 128, 130; Mr. Chanler's, 33; 
 
 Dr. Kolb's, 130 
 " Bomas " at Laiju, 12, 119, 124; at 
 
 Mthara, 40; at El Bogoi, 167, 393 
 British Museum, 9 ; authors Grant's 
 
 gazelle, 238 ; northern giraffe head, 
 
 411 ; suggestion as to arrangement of 
 
 specimens, 419 
 Bryden, Mr. H. A., 412 
 Bubal, West-African, 303 
 Btibalis neiimanni, 301 ; Hon. ^^'. 
 
 Rothschild's note on, 303 
 Buffaloes, 35, 84, 372 ; in Natal, 2 : 
 scarcity since cattle plague, 27, 142, 
 
 253 
 Bumi, 291, 294, 308, 339; inhabitants, 
 
 295 ; breed and peculiarity of poultry, 
 
 Burchell's zebra, author's observations 
 on, 210 note, 242, 372 ; proportions, 
 G
 
 450 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 242, 425 ; at Lake Rudolph, 275, 
 
 2S0 
 Eushbuck, 34, 123, 142 
 Butterflies, 63, 66, 100, 124, 236, 332; 
 
 author's new species, 130, 437 
 Bworana tribe, 268, 290 
 
 Cactus, 165, 216 
 
 Canoes, Dr. Kolb's, 124; author's, 151, 
 I53> 154 ; El Molo, 265 
 
 Caravan transport versus ox-waggon, 7 
 
 Cartridge-case used as call, 160 7ioie, 287 
 
 Caterpillars, 62 ; Dr. Kolb's sufferings 
 from, 126 
 
 Cattle plague in East Central Africa, 27, 
 117, 142, 253, 333 
 
 Cavendish, Mr. H. S. H., 238 
 
 Chanler, Mr. Astor, 8, 11, 13, 32, 39, 
 40, 81, 268, 312; his "boma," 12; 
 expedition, 36; "blood -brotherhood," 
 33 ; " roi rhebok," 125 
 
 Chapman's zebra, 372, 416 note 
 
 Charms, native belief in, 115, 244, 313 
 
 Coffee, 126, 329 ; native mode of cook- 
 ing, 329 
 
 Coke's hartebeeste, 8, 26, 132; limit of 
 range, 27 
 
 Coots, 64 
 
 Cormorants, 260, 266 ; nests, 379 
 
 Cranes, 210; crowned, 290 
 
 Craters, 34, 51, 63, 81, 125, 163, 259; 
 mineral in, 82 
 
 " Cripple - stopper," author's (Martini- 
 Henry rifle), 38, 45, 73, 107 
 
 Crocodile River, 21, 49 
 
 Crocodiles, 156, 266, 268, 305, 308, 
 
 310,314 
 Crows, 364 ; useful to El Molo tribe, 
 278 
 
 Divers, 64 
 
 " Donyo le Nyiro " (Mount Xyiro), 86, 
 
 92 
 Doves, 332, 340 
 Ducks, 64, 241, 266, 275 
 "Dug-out" canoes, 151, 153, 314 
 Duiker antelope, 123 
 Durban in 1869, i 
 Duruma, 9 
 
 Earthquakes, at Mombasa, 137 ; at 
 
 Lake Rudolph, 377 
 Eggs, a luxury in Central Africa, 333; 
 
 breed and peculiarity of hens laying, 
 
 333 
 Egrets, 266, 278, 292, 294, 341, 348 
 
 Elands, 27, 84, 1 17, 162, 164, 21 1; 
 stalking, 85 
 
 El Bogoi, camp at, 80, 86, 105, 167, 
 171, 174, 213, 224, 385, 411; hunt- 
 ing at, 86, 93, 107 ; author's excursions 
 from, 168; head waters, 234 
 
 Elephant -hunting expeditions, author's, 
 5, 137 ; expense in East Africa, 48 
 
 Elephant-hunts, 37, 44, 54, 69, 96, loi, 
 107, no, 150, 179, 187, 203, 215, 
 228, 295, 321, 348, 355, 358; rifle 
 equipment for, 5, 120 ; author's dress 
 during, 102; advantage of head-shot, 
 55, 100, 102, 103, 180; author's ad- 
 ventures in, 187, 322, 350 
 
 " Elephant -openers " (native name for 
 marabout storks), 21 
 
 Elephants, their haunts, 37, 62, 66, 105, 
 177, 184, 202, 219, 228 ; dying 
 posture, 98, 107, 113; proportions of 
 bulls, 55, 107, 419, 421; food, 108, 
 109, 215, 216; dust -throwing, 109, 
 114; resting, 109; single-tusked, no; 
 aspect at close quarters, ill; "herd- 
 bull" type, 132, 198; dying sounds, 
 179, 204; love-making, 187; attend- 
 ant birds, 292 ; author's observations 
 on, 352, 419; in open country, 359; 
 Mr. Selous' observations on, 419 
 
 El Gereh swamp, 106, 172, 174; 
 Ndorobo definition, 176 ; description, 
 ^7T^ 183; camp at, 182; climate, 
 183 
 
 El Gume tribe, akin to the Suk, 295 ; 
 game-snare, 337 
 
 El Molo tribe, timidity, 263 ; subsist- 
 ence, 265 ; language, 265 ; settle- 
 ments, 266 ; ethnology, 267 ; mode of 
 fishing, 267, 378 
 
 Embe district, 28 ; climate, 30 ; descrip- 
 tion, 31 ; soil, 32 
 
 Embe tribe, 29 ; appearance and habits, 
 32 ; as hunters, 33 ; raid on Ndorobos, 
 82 ; fishing for mineral, 82 ; hostility 
 to porters, 116; chastised by author, 
 125 ; awe of rifles, 125 ; on the " war- 
 path," 132 
 
 Etjiins Inn-chelli and E. grevyi (see 
 Burchell's and Grevy's zebra) 
 
 Euphorbia, 216 
 
 Fall-traps for game, 2)Zt 8°, 106, 245 
 "Faro" (Swahili for rhinoceros), 126, 
 
 277, 283 
 Feruzi, author's Swahili cook, 181, 182, 
 
 192, 199 ; his new entree, 283
 
 INDEX 
 
 451 
 
 Fever, enemy of African travellers, 99 ; 
 
 author attacked by, 153, 157, 326 
 "Fever trees" (mimosas), 36, 46 
 Flamingoes, 377 
 Francolins, 27, 68, 186 
 Freeland Expedition, 124 
 Frogs, 92 
 " Frolic," author's terrier companion, 8, 
 
 20, 138, 146; death of, 149 
 Fundi, author's headman, 206 
 
 Gala tribe, 431 
 
 Game, author's mode of protection from 
 vultures, 23, 211, 241, 379; native 
 fall-traps for, 33, 80, 106, 245 ; dis- 
 tinctive odours of, 147; conditions for 
 approaching, 285 ; native snares for, 
 
 337 
 
 Gazella petersi confused with G. granti 
 
 and G, thomsoni, 9 
 Geese, Egyptian, 64, 210, 260, 263, 
 
 266, 269 ; nests, 356 
 German mission station at Ikutha, 8, 
 
 143. 430 
 
 Gibbs' rifles, 5, 138 
 
 Giraffe, 26, 61, 66, 75, 81, 93, 117, 
 162, 164, 184; fall when shot, 22; 
 northern species, 27, 412 ; height of 
 bull, 87; resting, 117; in the Zoo, 
 117 ; distinctive odour of bulls, 147 ; 
 stalking, 169 ; vital spot, 169 ; at 
 Lake Rudolph, 335 ; author's specimen 
 head, 411 ; Mr. De Winton's remarks 
 on existing forms, 412 
 
 Giriama, 431 
 
 Granite hills, 143 
 
 Grant's gazelle, horns, 9, 10 ; at Mac- 
 kenzie River, 13, 17, 21, 24; at 
 Mthara, 54, 67, 75 ; at El Bogoi, 81, 
 201, 207 ; at Mount Nyiro, 92, 93 ; 
 at Gwaso Nyiro River, 162, 165 ; at 
 Seya River, 175, 176; at El Gereh, 
 184 ; at Lorogi Mountains, 223, 238; 
 breeding-time, 223, 335 ; skins prized 
 by Ndorobos, 227; author's specimen 
 in British Museum, 238 ; venison, 
 248; at Lake Rudolph, 260, 261, 
 266, 280, 289, 335 ; author's observa- 
 tions on, 380 
 
 Grant's zebra, 210 iiolc, 372, 416 ; pro- 
 portions, 425 
 
 (irevy's zebra, author's observations on, 
 17, 90, 415 ; cry, 17, 90, 416 ; limit 
 of range, 18, 27 ; at Mthara, 67, 71 ; 
 proportions, 90, 425 ; at Lorogi 
 Mountains, 164 ; at Soya River, 175, 
 
 176; at El Gereh, 186; at Lake 
 
 Rudolph, 271, 275, 280, 286, 335; 
 
 stalking, 375, 379 
 Guinea-fowl, 8, 27, 68, 197, 224; 
 
 crested, 142 ; horned, 142, 143, 290 ; 
 
 vulturine, 142, 176, 290 
 Gulls, 266, 278 
 Gun - traps for hyenas or leopards, 
 
 127, 315, 405 ; for lions, 397, 400, 
 
 406 
 Gwargess Mountain, 80, 163 
 Gwaso Nyiro River, 48, 67, 74, 80, 83, 
 
 84, 117, 163; game at, 161 ; routes 
 
 for, 161 
 
 Hamisi, a Swahili, 307, 311, 327, 328, 
 
 330 
 Hartebeeste, bastard {Dainaliscus liin- 
 
 atus), 274, 290 ; author's new species 
 
 (Biibalis netiinatuii), 301, 303 
 Herons, 266, 278, 379 
 Hippos, 14, 64, 132, 147, 150, 153, 
 
 156, 280, 289, 346 
 Hoffman, Mr., head of German mission 
 
 station at Ikutha, 430 
 Hohnel, Lieutenant Von, 8, 13, 16, 21, 
 
 32, 81, 269, 273, 275, 339, 351 
 Holland rifle, 138, 182, 190, 214 
 Honey, native mode of securing, 57 ; 
 
 staple food of Ndorobos, 79, 245 ; 
 
 substitute for sugar, 84, 104 ; presents 
 ' from natives, 87, 104, 208, 212, 226, 
 
 231, 247, 386, 390, 428 ; Wakamba 
 
 use for, 144 
 " Hongo" (tribute), 41 
 Horn measurements, Grant's gazelle, 9, 
 
 10 ; Peters' gazelle, 9, 10 ; Thomson's 
 
 gazelle, 10, 11 ; rhinoceros, 54, 76, 
 
 284, 353 ; impala, 1 18 ; B.nettniaimi, 
 
 303 
 Horn bills, cry, 31 ; nest, 129 
 Hornets, Dr. Kolb stung by, 131 ; nest, 
 
 131 
 
 Hunting charms, Ndorobo, 115 ; efficacy, 
 
 171 
 Hunting weapons, author's, 5, 121, 139; 
 
 Wakamba, 25, 92, 253 ; Ndorobo, 
 
 80, 94, 245 ; Wasanya, 431 
 Hyenas, 27, 282, 313, 403 ; gun-trap 
 
 for, 127, 315, 405 
 
 Ibises, Sacred, 202, 210, 263, 266, 341 
 Ikutha, German mission station, 8, 143, 
 
 430 
 Impala antelope, 8, 26, 41, 50, 75, 77, 
 
 81, 89, 142 ; scarcity in Equatorial
 
 452 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Africa, 27 ; difterence in horns, 49 ; 
 author's record head, 1 18 
 Imperial British East African Company, 
 2, 342 ; author's service under, 3, 
 
 141 
 
 Ivory, inflammability, 206; storing, 206, 
 213, 247, 3S7 
 
 Jackals, 156, 241, 282; attachment for 
 
 dogs, 239 
 Jackson's hartebeeste, 239 ; northern 
 
 limit of range, 241 
 Jambeni Range, 7, 80, I18, 128, 162; 
 
 native designation, 81 ; description of 
 
 country, 83 ; Wakamba route for, 
 
 161 
 Janjai district, 49, 77 
 Janjai tribe, 51, 65 
 Juma, author's gun-bearer, 76, 103, 
 
 108, 113, 155, 193, 202, 207, 226, 
 
 324, 354, 410 
 Juniper trees, 64, 242 ; foliage, 233 
 
 " Kalasha " (cow ivory), 46, 48, 204 
 
 Katheri tribe, akin to the Kikuyu, 128 ; 
 customs, 128 
 
 Kenia, Mount, 7, 30, 49, 128; camp 
 at, 61, 126 ; description, 63 ; pheno- 
 menon at, 127 ; tribes at, 128 ; 
 country at base, 129 ; forest trees at, 
 129 ; variety of game at, 132 ; ascent 
 by Dr. Kolb, 133 note ; " Row-row's" 
 people at, 246 
 
 Kere, 271, 304, 306, 330; author's 
 illness at, 326, 331 
 
 Kere tribe, 315 ; chief, 307 ; war- 
 dance, 327 ; mode of warfare, 327 ; 
 disapproval of slavery, 330 
 
 Kikuyu tribe, 128 
 
 " Kilangozi " (head porter), 365, 433 
 
 Kilimara {sec Mount Kenia) 
 
 Kirk's antelope, 26, 141, 151, 186, 195 
 
 Kisigau, 9 
 
 " Kisima," Lake, 239 
 
 Kites, 364 
 
 Klipspringer, 163 
 
 Kolb, Dr., 44, 63, 123, 125, 127, 130 ; 
 sufferings from caterpillars, 126 ; his 
 first rhino, 126 ; stung by hornets, 
 
 131 ; combining sport with science, 
 
 132 ; geographical expedition, 133 
 note 
 
 Kolb, Lake, named by author, 63 note 
 Komati River, Lower, 49 
 Koodoo, greater, 82, 258 ; lesser, 26, 
 141, 142, 156 
 
 Koppies, 15, 34, 51, 84, 100, III, 
 
 124, 173, 190, 228, 251 
 Koran, verse of, as hunting charm. 1 15 
 " Korrigum," 274 note, 419 
 Kulale, Mount, 252, 257, 260, 380 
 " Kurunga " (rock pool), 174 
 
 Labugo, chief of Kere tribe, 307, 310, 
 327, 330; author's " shauri " with, 
 311 ; character and appearance, 328 
 
 Laiju district, 10, 77, 79 ; camp at, 12, 
 119, 123, 132; description, 12; 
 deadly place for pack-animals, 28 
 
 Lalia Bay (see Alia Bay) 
 
 Lampert, Professor, 303 
 
 Lava, 32, 68, 72, 83, 118, 162, 258, 
 259, 265 
 
 Leeches, 83 
 
 Lee-Metford rifle, 120, 138, 182 
 
 Leikipia, 246 
 
 Lekwais, a Wakwavi, 291 
 
 Lekwari, an Mkwavi, 339, 342, 344 
 
 Leopards, 27, 280, 282, 313 ; gun-trap 
 for, 315, 405 
 
 Lepidoptera collected by author, 437 
 
 Leseya River [see Seya River) 
 
 Lesiat, an Ndorobo, 115, 168, 170, 
 226, 243, 390, 398, 426, 428 ; belief 
 in charms, 1 15, 244 
 
 Limestone springs, 83 
 
 Lions, 27, 68, 72, 117, 162, 221, 249, 
 273> 394, 409 ; man-eating, 233, 
 391 ; gun-trap for, 397, 400, 406 ; 
 den, 400 
 
 Locust birds, 275 
 
 Locusts, 126 
 
 Loder, Sir Edmund, 422 note 
 
 Lorgete, an Ndorobo, 168, 170, 228 ; 
 duplicity of, 169, 171, 172, 227, 230 
 
 Lorian, 82 
 
 Lorogi Mountains, 80, 93, 106, 114, 
 165, 225, 408, 427 ; climate and 
 vegetation, 86, 165; " subugo "' 
 forest on, 105, 214, 219, 224, 235 ; 
 camps at, 220, 235, 237 ; correct 
 definition, 231 ; ascent by author, 
 234 ; altitudes, 238 ; boundary line 
 of animal species, 241 
 
 Machakos, 431 
 
 Mackenzie River, head waters, 13, 81 ; 
 tributary of the Tana, 13, 81 ; camp 
 at, 17 ; variety of game at, 26 
 
 Maftaha, a Swahili, 393, 394, 400 
 
 Magu, 271 
 
 Mangoes, 4
 
 INDEX 
 
 453 
 
 Marabout storks, 21, 346, 364; native 
 
 name, 21 
 Marasambiti, Mount, 252 
 Martini-Henry rifle, 5, 38, 73 
 Masai tribe, 13, 14, 40, 143, 291 ; of 
 
 Ndoro, 128 ; dances, 231 ; present 
 
 location, 246 ; language, 267 
 Mathews range, 106, 163, 177, 183, 
 
 196; " subugo " forest on, 183; 
 
 altitude, 194 
 Metford rifle, 19 
 Milk, a luxury in Central Africa, 329 ; 
 
 utensils and mode of milking, 145, 329 
 Millet crops, 131, 288, 294, 304, 306, 
 
 317 ; native mode of protection, 319 
 Mimosas, 36, 84, 184, 185, 186, 197, 
 
 248, 259, 269 ; use for bark, 102 
 Mineral (natron ?) in crater lake, 82 ; use I 
 
 by Wakanda tribe, 83 
 Mission station at Ikutha, 8, 143, 430 ; 
 
 suitable spot for, 222 
 "Mkongi" plant, 108, 215; use for 
 
 fibre, 109 
 Mkwavi tribe, 339 
 Mnyamiri, Swahili guide and interpreter, 
 
 272, 275, 285, 288, 289, 308, 429 ; 
 
 his exorcism, 313 
 Mnyithu tribe, 66 ; author's trouble 
 
 with, 78 ; akin to the Kikuyu, 128 
 Mombasa, i, 2, 134; author's first 
 
 acquaintance with, 2 ; description, 4 ; 
 
 expeditions from, 5, 137 ; return to, 
 
 133. 432 ; earthquake at, 137 
 Monkeys, Cercopitheais albotorqiiatiis, 
 
 129 ; yellow, 129 ; cry, 129; colobus, 
 
 3'8 
 Mosquitoes, 176, 202, 210, 249, 289, 
 
 295> 300. 318, 325, 332 
 Mreya spring, 215 
 Msara {see Mthara) 
 Mthara district, description, 34 ; camp 
 
 at, 40, 67, 125 
 Mthara tribe, 40, 41 ; as guides, 67 
 Mtiya, 133 
 
 Mtiya's, at Ukambani, 145 
 Murkeben hill, 173, 258 ; author's 
 
 definition, 251 
 Murli, 304, 318; pronunciation, 304 
 
 note ; native disfigurement, 305 
 Murthu, 318, 319 
 
 Naivasha, Lake, 241 
 
 Ndaminuki, author's "blood brother," 
 
 42, 126, 224 
 Ndara, 9 
 Ndoro, Masai tribe of, 128 
 
 Ndorobo country, 79 ; original tribes, 246 
 Ndorobo tribe, nomadic life, 13, 79 ; as 
 guides, 14, 16, 86, 91, loi, 106, 
 no, 114, 172, 173; huts, 15, 230, 
 242, 243 ; food prejudice, 25 ; staple 
 food, 79, 245 ; as hunters, 80, 95, 
 no, 193, 229, 245; drinking blood 
 of animals, 84 ; hunting weapons, 
 94 ; feasting on elephants, 99, 105, 
 108, 193, 209 ; reliability, 104 ; 
 headman's qualification, 115; belief 
 in charms, 115, 244; inferior race, 
 128 ; customs, 220, 391 ; dances, 231 ; 
 compared with Swazies, 245 ; marriage, 
 246 : ethnology, 246, 247 ; at Lake 
 Rudolph, 267 ; language, 267 ; con- 
 ception of the Deity, 426 ; author's 
 observations on, 426 
 " Ngunga " (crater lake), 63 
 Njambeni Range {see Jambeni Range) 
 Njangitomara (girafl'e) stream, 84 
 " Nyama Yangu " (author's Swahili 
 
 name),' 6 
 Nyiro, Mount, 86, 90, 93, 105, 220, 
 248, 251, 382 ; "subugo" forest on, 
 253 ; author's definition, 253; western 
 face, 256 
 
 " Ongata Karta" (horse pasture), 91, 
 
 92, 239, 249, 251 
 "Ongata Ndamez " (camel veldt), 91, 
 
 223, 250 ; corrupt spelling, 91 note 
 Orchids, 120 
 Oryx antelope {Oryx beisa), 17, 22, 26, 
 
 68, 75, 81, 89, 175, 184, 261, 280; 
 
 stalking, 23 ; cry, 26 ; milk, 84 ; . 
 
 resembling unicorn, 93 ; horns, 363 ; 
 
 use of horns l;y El Molo tribe, 378 ; 
 
 author's observations on, 418 
 Ostriches, 17, 22, 27, 67, 81, 253 ; 
 
 nest, 93 ; voice resemblance, 335 
 
 " Paa " {see Kirk's antelope) 
 
 Pack-animals, loss from climate and fly, 
 28, 48, 160, 161, 162, 168 ; pack- 
 saddles, 135, 160, 363 ; treatment, 
 135, 200 ; watering, 139, 273 ; cross- 
 ing the Tana river, 157 ; loads, 160, 
 162, 200, 341, 344, 362 ; stamped- 
 ing, 194 ; killed by lions, 252, 395 ; 
 Turkana species, 341, 428 
 
 Pallah antelope {see Impala antelope) 
 
 Pangani, 135 
 
 " Papa," author's Ndorobo guide, 14, 
 22, 82, 104, 1 18 
 
 " Pate de faro," 283
 
 454 
 
 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Pauw, crested {Eitpodotis kori), 281, 
 
 340 ; smaller species, 346 
 Pelicans, 263, 266, 278, 327, 377, 379 
 " Pice," author's terrier companion, 138, 
 
 239, 249, 274, 276, 277, 283 
 Pigeons, 100, 236 
 Pigs, wild, in Swaziland, 118 
 Pika-Pika, 9 
 
 Plantain-eaters, 31, 129 ; cry, 31, 236 
 Poultiy, breed and peculiarity in Bumi, 
 
 333 
 Puff-adder, author's adventure with, 254 
 " Pundas " (Swahili for donkey), 163 
 
 Quartz, 90, 141, 250 
 
 Randili tribe, 268 
 
 Reshiat, 164, 225, 256, 259, 269, 
 285, 287 ; Swahili designation, 289 ; 
 pastoral tribe at, 295 
 Khi)ioceros liobnwoodi, 54 note 
 Rhinos, 26, 74, 85, 116, 162, 165, 175, 
 194, 195, 210; dying dance, 19, 283, 
 383 ; author's observations on, 21, 
 76, 121, 352 ; Mr. Selous' observa- 
 tions on, 34, 122, 352 ; horns, 54, 76, 
 123, 284, 353 ; difference of opinion 
 regarding, 54 ; effect of wet weather 
 on, 118 ; cries, 123 ; food, 123, 162 ; 
 love-making, 174 ; proportions, 196, 
 277, 425 ; "scrapes," 250, 266, 269 ; 
 small variety, 273, 276, 283 ; 
 attendant birds, 276 
 Rifles used by author, 5, 19, 120, 138 
 Road-cutting at Sabaki River, 3, 141 
 " Roi rheboks," 124 ; in Zululand, 124 ; 
 
 new species, 125 
 Rothschild, Hon. Walter, note on 
 
 Biihalis iieuma?im, 303 
 Rudolph, Lake, author's route for, 254 ; 
 description, 257, 259, 260, 265, 266, 
 269, 280 ; Count Teleki's volcano, 
 259 ; author's route round, 259 ; 
 curious fish at, 260 ; camel bones at, 
 261 ; properties of water, 263, 289 ; 
 old beaches, 266 ; tribes at, 265, 267, 
 274 ; fertility in fish, 267 ; native 
 mode of fishing, 267 ; author's use of 
 Teleki and Von Hohnel's map, 269 ; 
 bird life at, 278 ; northern affluent, 
 291 ; B. 7ieiinianui at, 301 ; phe- 
 nomenon at, 338 ; present configura- 
 tion, 339 
 
 Sabaki River, 3, 431 ; author's road- 
 cutting at, 3, 141 ; tributaries, 141, 
 431 
 
 Sabi River, 21, 49 
 
 Salt lakes, 241 
 
 Salt swamps, 185, 202, 210 
 
 Sambur tribe, 92, 252, 253 
 
 Samburu, 138, 430 
 
 Samburu {see Sambur tribe) 
 
 Sandals for interior, 162, 200 
 
 Sauberlich, Mr., head of mission at 
 
 Ikulha, 8, 143, 430 
 Sclater, Mr., 303 
 Selous, Mr. F. C, 34, 122, 413, 415, 
 
 419 
 Seya River, 114, 116, 165, 169, 174; 
 
 mouth, 106, 176, 196; tributaries, 
 
 176, 184, 193, 250 
 Shakespeare quotation as hunting charm, 
 
 "5 
 
 Shambas (cultivated ground), 33, 45, 
 53. 66, 132 
 
 Shanganes, 16 
 
 Sharpe, Miss E. M. Bowdler, 129, 437 
 
 Shauris, with Embe tribe, 33 ; with 
 Mthara tribe, 41, 50; at Mtiya's, 
 145 ; with Ndorobo tribe, 172 ; with 
 Kere tribe, 312 
 
 Shebane, author's Swahili boy attendant, 
 164, 167, 308 ; death of, 310 
 
 Smiler, author's attendant, 108, 173, 
 202, 205, 208 
 
 Smith, Dr. Donaldson, 268, 271, 291 
 
 Snider carbines, 6, 124, 135 ; for gun- 
 traps, 401, 405 
 
 " Sogis," Arab, for pack-animals, 135, 
 160, 363 
 
 Sotike, 274 
 
 Spoonbills, white, 275 ; mode of feeding, 
 278 
 
 Squareface, author's gun-bearer and in- 
 terpreter, 56, 71, 108, 115, 149, 168, 
 182, 192, 200, 226, 236, 324 ; death 
 of, 409 
 
 Starlings (Ga/eopsar salvaJon'i), 258 
 
 Storks, 263, 265, 278, 327, 341 
 
 Storms, effect on country, 118 
 
 Suaki bushes, 185, 285, 286, 289, 292, 
 348, 360 ; use by Swahilis, 280 
 
 Suakin, derivation of name, 280 
 
 " Subugo " (forest tracts), 105, 183, 214, 
 219, 224, 225, 230, 235, 253, 385, 
 393 ; correct definition, 232 ; trees in, 
 232, 235 
 
 Sugar-cane, use by Wakamba tribe, 144 
 
 Suk tribe, 295, 384 
 
 Suya River, 249, 250, 385 
 
 Swahili ivory traders, 48, 80, 115, 172, 
 196, 252, 289, 291 ; paying tribute,
 
 INDEX 
 
 455 
 
 41 ; their treatment of pack-animals, 
 135 ; as interpreters, 272 ; their 
 purchases, 275 ; eftect on markets, 
 312 ; their methods, 342 
 Swahili porters, 6, 7 ; engagement of, 6, 
 134 ; author's number in caravan, 6, 
 29, 134, 135; loss of, 116, 130; 
 author's signal for, 160, 287 ; food on 
 march, 269 ; conduct, 326 ; their 
 point of honour, 365 ; Government 
 regulation of loads, 366 ; chief reward, 
 
 366 ; treatment of, 367 ; punishment, 
 
 367 ; redress of grievances, 368 ; 
 mode of carrying tusks, 370, 432 ; 
 payment, 433 
 
 Swahilis, 26, 51, 75 ; food prejudice, 
 39, 105, 300 ; as servants, 89 ; their 
 tooth-brushes, 280 
 
 Swaziland, wild pigs in, iiS 
 
 Taita, 9 
 
 Tana River, 131, 145 ; tributaries, 13, 
 81, 160 ; camp at, 146 ; ferrying with 
 canoe, 153 ; crossing pack-animals, 
 
 157 
 Taro desert, 139 
 Teal, 266 
 " Telekeza '" (water-carrying in gourds), 
 
 139 
 
 Teleki, Count, 8, 269, 275, 280, 307, 
 339 ; his volcano, 259 
 
 Terns, 266 
 
 Tetse fly, 8, 28, 142, 145, 160, 161, 
 162, 163; female (?), 2S2 
 
 Thaka district, 132 
 
 Thana River [see Tana River) 
 
 Thomas, Mr. Oldfield, 303, 412 ; note 
 on Gazella grantii, 238 
 
 Thomson's gazelle, 9, 10, 1 1 ; northern 
 limit of range, 241 
 
 Tick-birds, 19, 34, 292 
 
 Tongas, 16 
 
 Topi hartebeeste {Datitaliscus jiinela), 
 274, 280, 289, 304, 314, 318. 332, 
 418; resemljlance, 274, 290; varieties, 
 274 note; breeding-time, 334, 335; 
 f'ghting, 335 
 
 " Tora " antelope, 303 
 
 Tree-frogs, 236 
 
 Tsavo River, 138, 141 
 
 Turkana, 341 
 
 Tusks, weights of bull, 56, 61, 98, no, 
 113, 132, 197, 209, 229, 299, 321, 
 356, 422 ; weights of cow, 47, 209, 
 224, 422 ; distinctive character, 198 ; 
 fmding in forests, 247 ; proportions. 
 
 298, 362 ; porters' mode of carrying, 
 370 ; Sir Edmund Loder's specimen, 
 422 note ; Duke of York's specimen, 
 422 note 
 
 Ukamkam, Northern, 8, 10, 132, 143; 
 description, 143 ; female customs in, 
 
 145 
 Umbuluzi River, 49 
 
 Vultures, 21, 72, 221, 241, 282, 346, 
 356, 364 ; author's mode of protecting 
 game from, 23, 211, 241, 379 
 
 Vulturine guinea-fowl, 176, 184, 197, 
 290 ; chased by dog, 142 ; appear- 
 ance, 143 
 
 Wakamba tribe, 25, 150, 160, 430; 
 ivory traders, 48, 143, 161 ; as hunters, 
 92, 253 ; mode of carrying burdens, 
 144; as bee-keepers, 144; their 
 festival, 144; female customs, 144; 
 predatory tendencies, 431 
 
 Wakanda tribe, use for mineral, 83 
 
 Wakwavi tribe, branch of the Masai, 
 128, 246; customs, 129; hostility 
 shown by, 130 ; present location, 246 ; 
 as interpreters, 291 
 
 Waller's gazelle, 16, 26, 81, 141, 156, 
 186, 195, 280, 284; haunts, 20; 
 characteristic attitudes, 81 ; appear- 
 ance and disposition, 184 
 
 Wa-ndorobo, Swahili plural, 13 note 
 
 Warr River, northern affluent of Lake 
 Rudolph, 291 
 
 Wart-hogs, 27, 146 
 
 Wasanya tribe, 431 ; hunting weapons, 
 
 431 
 Waterbuck, 12, 26, 81, 141, 14S, 151, 
 
 156, 161 ; distinctive odour, 147 ; 
 
 defassiis variety, 285 
 Water-hens, 64, 202 
 Weaver birds, 37 
 Wild-fowl, 64 
 Winton, Mr. W. E. de, 372 ; remarks 
 
 on existing forms of girafil'e, 412 
 
 Yams, 12, 126 
 
 Zanziharis, 367 
 
 Zebra [see Burchell's, Chapman's, (iranl's, 
 
 and (jrevy's zebra) 
 Zoo, giraffes resting in, 117; elephant 
 
 in, 424 
 Zululand, author's appointment in, 3 ; 
 
 " roi rhebok " in, 124
 
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 ■'THE JUNGLE," 166 PICCADILLY 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM THE PRESS. 
 
 "Captain Swayne's narrative of Seventeen Trips tliyough Somaliland . . . 
 serves to remind us how rapidly the waste places in the world are getting filled up. 
 I lis account of the big game shooting has a popular interest . . . minute information 
 for the sportman's guidance." — Standard. 
 
 " Will be carefully studied by those who have been there, and those — and there 
 are many — who have an eager desire to go. It is full of thrilling episodes. . . . 
 The last chapter . . . contains some highly interesting notes on the wild fauna of 
 the country. The appendices, which deal with the fitting out of Somali expeditions 
 and with the physical geography, have a distinct value." — Times. 
 
 "Captain Swayne's Seventeen Trips tliroitgli Somali land seems entitled to more 
 attention and authority than most hunters. Contains one of the fullest accounts yet 
 published of the life, customs, and characteristics of the restless Somali tribes." — 
 Scotsman.
 
 Wii/i about ijO Illustrations. One Vol.., u7iiform with Horn Measurements. 
 J42 pages. Price jos. net. 
 
 RECORDS OF BIG GAME 
 
 COXTAIXIXG AX ACCOUXT OF THEIR DISTRIBUTIOX, DESCRIPTIONS 
 OF SPECIES, LENGTHS, AND WEIGHTS 
 
 MEASUREMENTS OF HORNS & FIELD NOTES 
 
 For the use of Sportsmen and Naturalists 
 By ROWLAND WARD, F.Z.S. 
 
 AUTHOR OF "the SFORTSMAN's HANDBOOK," ETC. 
 
 LONDON : ROWLAND W^ARD, Limited 
 
 ■■THE JUNGLE," 166 PICCADILLY 
 
 PRESS OPINIONS. 
 
 " Indian sportsmen, like the brethren in other parts of the world, are always vieing with one another 
 to obtain record specimens of the horns and antlers of great game, as is amply testified by the numerous 
 accounts which from time to time appear in the columns of the Asian. They will accordingly be 
 prepared to offer a hearty welcome to the new and greatly enlarged edition of Mr. Rowland Ward's 
 Horn Measurements, of which the first edition appeared four years ago. In its present form, the 
 work deals with nearly all the species of horned and antlered game, as well as with elephants, rhino- 
 ceroses, hippopotami, and wild boars, together with some of the larger carnivora, such as lions, tigers, 
 leopards, and bears. . . . Some parts of the book read almost like a condensed Natural Historj'. A 
 great improvement, too, may be noticed in regard to the important and interesting subject of the 
 geographical distribution of the various .species treated of. The number of illustrations has also been 
 verj' greatly increased, and some of the figures are really admirable and artistic likenesses of the 
 animals depicted. With such an up-to-date and authentic record before them, sportsmen will in future 
 have an easy task in deciding whether or no their trophies are record .specimens. And it is to be 
 hoped that all such as come under this designation will be carefully chronicled and measured. We 
 may also call attention to the careful attention that has been paid to the proper scientific nomenclature 
 of the animals described ; and although we are not always in accord with the necessity for such 
 changes — now that new terms have been adopted hy scientific naturalists — it is sincerely to be hoped 
 that sportsmen will likewise use them. The sanibur, for instance, is no longer to be designated Cervus 
 Aristotelis, but C. iinicolor — a term admirably adapted to the species. . . . Space forbids allusion to 
 elephants, rhinoceroses, wild boar, and the carnivora, but the e.xtracls we have given are sufficient 
 to show the amount of labour that has been e.xpended on this work, and also how invaluable it will 
 prove to all sportsmen. Although it is quite probable that there are still specimens of large size in 
 private collections that have escaped Mr. Rowland Ward's energetic search, we fear it is only too 
 likely that in the case of most species the record lengths have already been chronicled. The inces.sant 
 persecution to which large game is now subject in all parts of the world allows but few .specimens to 
 attain their full age ; while the diminution in number of the .species renders it unlikely that the few 
 which are so spared will be as large as their ancestors. It is, therefore, only too likely that Mr. 
 Ward will receive but few additions to his list of records from specimens to be slain in the future." — 
 Tfte Asian Sporting Nnuspaper. 
 
 " In its pre.sent extended form the book is a great improvement on its predecessor, and indeed can 
 no longer be regarded as a mere list of horn measurements, but forms to a great extent a valuable 
 guide to the distribution— and in .some instances to the habits — of the animals coming under the 
 de.signation of Big Game. As so many additions have been made to the genera and species of African 
 Antelope of late years, to s.iy nothing of emendations of the generic and specific titles of the previously 
 known forms, the book will be found a valuable guide to the group of Ungulates. In it every sports- 
 man will find a mine of interest, and the .scientific naturalist will likewise not fail to discover matter 
 worthy of his attention. ... Is a monument of untiring and successful energj' on the part of its 
 author." — Natural Science.
 
 Demy St'i?, 288 pp. Price \os. bd. fiet. 
 
 SUNSHINE AND STORM 
 
 IN 
 
 RHODESIA 
 
 Being a Narrative of Events in Matabeieland both before 
 and during the recent Native Insurrection 
 
 By F. C. SELOUS 
 
 GOLD MEDALLIST OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY 
 AUTHOR OF "travel AND ADVENTURE," ETC. 
 
 FULL Y ILL us TRA TED 
 
 LONDON : ROWLAND WARD, Limited 
 166 PICCADILLY 
 
 PRESS OPINIONS. 
 
 "The book teems with stirring adventures ... it also contains many shrewd 
 observations on the general outlook in South Africa." — Alorning Advertiser. 
 
 "The book is one which every student of South African affairs should possess, 
 and will be invaluable to the future historian of the IMatal)ele war. . . . Gives us the 
 first coherent and connected account of the causes which led to the rebellion, and of 
 the energetic measures taken to suppress it." — St. James s Gazette. 
 
 "All of Mr. Selous's writings have stood the test of time, and, so far as we are 
 aware, no statement that he has ever published has been called in question. We 
 commend the book to our readers ... it is well illustrated, and furnished with a 
 map. " — Field.
 
 Subscription price £,^ : 4s. \In the Spring 0/ iSgS. 
 
 THE DEER OF ALL LANDS 
 
 By RICHARD LYDEKKER 
 
 Illustrated by more than Twenty Hand-Coloured Plates, drawn by 
 
 J. Smit; also a number of Process-Drawings of Horns, 
 
 as well as Photographic Reproductions of 
 
 living Deer in the Woburn and other 
 
 Collections 
 
 Demy Szv, about 500 pp. 
 
 SPORT IN THE HIGHLANDS 
 
 OF 
 
 KASHMIR 
 
 Being a Narrative of an Eight Months' Trip 
 in Baltistan and Ladak 
 
 By H. Z. DARRAH 
 
 INDIAN CIVIL SERVICE 
 
 I'Vit/i 7iea}iy Fifty Illiisf7-atioiis and Map 
 
 LONDON: ROWLAND WARD, Limited 
 "THE JUNGLE," 166 PICCADILLY
 
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