I 5 
 
 J. SLATTERY'S 
 
 BOOK&MUSIO 
 
 . 16 Thames -Street, 
 
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 BALTIMORE. 
 
 I. B. Accordeons neatly Repaired. 
 

 
 UCSB LIBRARY 
 
 ST.
 
 MEMOIR 
 
 OF THE 
 
 NORTH & SOUTH ATLANTIC 
 OCEAN, 
 
 CONTAINING SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR NAVIGATING 
 
 THE 
 
 COASTS OF FRANCE, SPAIN, AND PORTUGAL, 
 
 THE 
 
 WEST COAST OF AFRICA, 
 
 THE 
 
 AZORES, MADEIRA, GAPE VERDS, 
 
 AND ALL KNOWN 
 
 ISLANDS, KOCKS, SHOALS, AND DANGERS, 
 
 IN THIS NAVIGATION ; 
 
 TOGETHER WITH 
 
 THE EAST COASTS OF NORTH AND SOUTH 
 
 AMERICA, 
 
 THE STRAIT OF MAGALHAEN, 
 THE FALKLAND & SHETLAND ISLANDS, 
 
 TIEREA DEL FUEGO, &c., &c. 
 
 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 WINDS, TIDES, AND CURRENTS. 
 
 TRACKS TO AND PROM ENGLAND TO THE CAPE OE GOOD HOPE, 
 
 COAST OF BRAZIL, 
 WEST INDIES, NORTH AMERICA, &c., &c. 
 
 AND A COPIOUS 
 
 TABLE OF LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JAMES IMRAY, 
 
 CHART PUBLISHER, 
 
 NAVIGATION WAREHOUSE tf NAVAL ACADEMY, 
 
 116, MINORIES. 
 
 1847.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 FRANCE, SPAIN, AND PORTTOAL, 1. 
 
 Island of Ushant, Passage du Four 1 : Brest, Dovarnenez Bay 2 : 
 The Isle of Saints, Port Cabestrans, Hodierne, The Penmark Rocks, 
 Quimper, The Glenan Islands 3 : Port Louis, L' Orient 4 : Belle Isle, 
 Quiberon 5 : The Cardinals, Island of Dumet, Nantes 6 : Bourgneuf 
 Bay 7 : The Isle Dieu, St. Gilles, The Isle de Re 8 : Basque Roads 9 : 
 The River Gironde to Bordeaux 10 : The Bassin D' Arcachon, Ba- 
 yonne 1 1 : Signals made at the Mouth of the Adour 1 2 : The River, 
 Adour, Passage, Socoa, or St. Jean de Luz 15 : Point St. Barbe 16 : 
 Fonterabia 17 : Port Passage 18 : General Remarks, St. Sebastian 19 : 
 St. Nicholas Island, Cape Machichaco, Bilboa 21 : Santona 23 : San- 
 tandar 24 : Port St. Pedro, St. Vincente de la Barquera, The Riva de 
 Cella 25 : Gijon, Rivadeo 26 : Port Vivero, Inlet of Vares, Cape Or- 
 tegal, Cedeira 27 : Cape Prior Ferrol 28 : Corunna 29 : General Re- 
 marks, Cape St. Adrian 30 : The Point of Laxe 31 : Buytre Point, 
 Cape Finisterre, The Bay of Corcubion, The Minarsos Rocks 32 : 
 Mount Loiro, Inlet or Bay of Muros, Salvora Island 33 : The Bay of 
 Arosa, Pontevedra 34 : Vigo 35 : Harbour of Bayona 36. 
 
 THE COAST OP PORTUGAL, 36. 
 
 Villa del Conde 36 : Oporto 37 : Aveiro 39 : Figueira, The Berlings 
 40 : Cape Roca, or the Rock of Lisbon, Lisbon, The Bar of the Tagus 
 41 : General Remarks, Setubal, or St. Ubes 43 : Cape St. Vincent, 
 The Bay of Lagos 44 : The City of Faro, The River Guadiana 45 : 
 San Lucar, The Corales of Regla 46 : Bay and Harbour of Cadiz, The 
 Tower or Lighthouse of St. Sebastian, Rocks and Shoals, The Puercas, 
 or Hogs 47 : The El Diamante, or the Diamond, Directions for enter- 
 ing the Bay of Cadiz 48 : The Torre Gorda, or Tower of Hercules, 
 Cape Roche, Cape Trafalgar 50 : Shoals between Sanctri Petri and 
 Cape Trafalgar, Paloma, The Cabezos Shoals 52 : The Thisbe Rocks, 
 Tarifa Island, The Pearl Rock 53. 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 THE AZORES, OR WESTERN ISLANDS, 54. 
 
 Corvo, Flores, Castle of Santa Cruz 55 : Island of Fayal 56 : Pico, 
 St. George, or St. Jorge, Graciosa 58 : Terceira, The Cabras, or Goat 
 Islands 59 : Port Praya, St. Michael, Villa Franca 60 : The City of 
 St. Michael's, or Ponta del Gada, Island of St. Mary 61 : The Formi- 
 gas, or Ants, Tides, Gales of wind 62.
 
 THE MADEIRAS, 67- 
 
 Porto Santo, The Desertas, Madeira 67 : The Bay of Funchal 68 : 
 Port Regulations 69 : The Salvages 70 : Tides 71. 
 
 THE CANARIES, 71 . 
 
 Palma, Santa Cruz 71 : Ferro, Gomera, Teneriffe, Santa Cruz, 
 Quarantine Regulations, The Port of Orotava 72 : Directions to be 
 observed by British Vessels frequenting the Island of Teneriffe 73 : 
 Canaria or Grand Canary, Fuertaventura 74 : Lanzarote, Graciosa, 
 Allegranza, &c. 75 : Tides 77. 
 
 THE CAPE YERD ISLANDS, 77. 
 
 The Sargasso Sea 77 : Island of Bonavista, English Road 78 : Leton 
 Reef, Ilha de Sal, or Salt Island, Mordeira Bay 79 : Mayo, St. Jago 
 80: Port Praya 81 : Fogo, or Fuego Brava, St. Nicholas, Terrafal 
 Bay 82 : Raza, or Chaon, Branco, or Redondl, St. Lucia, St. Vincent 
 83 : St. Antonio, Winds, Currents, &c. 84 : Tides 85. 
 
 THE BERMUDAS, OR SOMERS' ISLANDS, 85. 
 
 Sailing Directions, Murray's Anchorage 86 : Tides 87- 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 ROOKS, SHOALS, AND DANGERS IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN, 88. 
 
 Kramer's Bank, Rockall, Lion's Bank, Vigia, Atkin's Rock, Brazil 
 Rock, Negre's Rocks, Three Chimneys, Chapelle Rock, Jaquet Island, 
 Devil's Rocks, Virgin Rocks, Maida, Mariner's Rocks, Barenethy's 
 Rock, I. Verte, or Green Island, Rock, Five Heads, Greeve's Rocks, 
 Vigia, Indemnity Rock, Cashe's Ledge, Vigia, Beaufort Bank, Ampli- 
 mont Rocks, Druid's Reef, Perseus Shoal, Hervagault's Breakers, 
 Daraith's Rock, Gough's Rocks, Shoal, 88 : Shoal, Watson's Rock, 
 Shoals of St. George's Bank, Candler's Rock, Breton's Rock, Hume's 
 Reef, Whale Rock, Vigia, Princess Elizabeth Shoal, Vigia, Rocks near 
 the Azores, Tulloch's Rocks, Formigas, Jean Hamon's Rock, Daedalus 
 Rock, St. Mary's Bank, Kutusoff Bank, The Eight Stones, Ashton 
 Rock, Desertas, Steen Ground, Rocks eastward of Bermuda, Josyna 
 Rock, Vankeulen's Rock, Vigia, Harcourt Rock, Cleveland Rock, The 
 Salvages, Gandaria Reef, Mourand's Bank, Staminca Rock, Living- 
 ton's, or Tulloch's Overfalls, Gombauds Rock, Superb Bank, Three 
 Kays, Guigon's Bank, Navy Bank, Hanna's Breakers, Maria Rock, 
 89 : Bom Felix, Clowes' Reef, Betsey's Rock, Martin's Reef, Bonetta 
 Rock, India Shoal, Maalstroom, Galleon's. JBank, Leton Rock, Webb's 
 Rock, Dubrueil's Rock, St. Esprit Reef, Garcia Rock, Gallissionere's 
 Rock, Texeiros Shoal, Five Palmas or Hinman's Shoal, Patty's Over- 
 falls, Delaware Shoal, Hannah's Shoal, Longchampe's Rock, Warley's 
 Shoal, French Shoal, Caesar's Breakers, Blaesdale's Reef, St. Paul, or 
 St. Penedo, St. Pedro, Kramer's Bank, Rockall, Aitkin's Rock 90 : 
 Three Chimneys 91 : Chapelle Rock, Devil's Rocks 92 : Virgin Rocks, 
 Mariner's Rock, Indemnity Rock 93 : Beaufort Bank, The Amplimont 
 Rocks, Druid's Reef, Hervagault's Breakers 94 : Watson's Rock, St. 
 George's Bank 95 : Breton's Rock 97 : Hume's Reef, Princess Eliz- 
 abeth Shoal, Rocks near the Azores 98 : Tulloch Rocks, Daedalus 
 Rock 99: The Eight Stones 100: Ashton Rock, Harcourt Rock, 
 Gandaria Reef 101 : Maria and Bonetta Rocks, &c., &c. 102: Del- 
 aware Shoal, St. Paul, or St. Penedo de St. Pedro 104.
 
 _ __ ^1J <& 
 
 V 
 
 / 
 
 ' ^ , ^ 
 
 - 
 
 SECTION/fV v 
 
 i /^>> L <"v 
 
 THE COAST OP AFRICA, J 104. 
 
 Tangier Bay, Cape Spartel 104 : Cape Blanco, Cape Cantin 108 : 
 Mogodore 109 : Agadier, or Santa Cruz 112 : Cape Non, Porto Cau- 
 sado 113: Cape Juby, Currents, Cape Boiador 114: Garnet Bay, 
 Cintra Bay, Cape Blanco 115: Bank of Arguin, Cape Myrick, Por- 
 tendic, River Senegal 116 : Cape Verd, Bay of Goree 118 : Amboroo 
 Bank: The River Joal 119: River Gambia 120: Bissagos Archipe- 
 lago 121 : The Great Channel on the Meridian of the Islet Cayo 122 : 
 Winds, Anchorage, Tides 123 : The Rio Grande 124 : Bulama, Kany- 
 abac 125 : The River Nunez 126 : Dembia River, Isles de Los, 128 : 
 Directions for Sailing from Cape Roxo to the Isles de Los 129 : Tides, 
 Tumbo Point, Mahneah River, River Morebiah 130 : Matacong Island, 
 The River Mellacoree 131 : The Channel into the Great Scarcies River 
 132: Sierra Leone 133: FaTse Cape, Banana Islands, Yaury Bay, 
 Tides 134 : Sherbro Inlet, The Bashaw, or Turtle Islands, The Shoals 
 of St. Anne 135 : Cape Mount, Cape Mesurado, River Junk, Little 
 Bissaw, or Picaniny Bassa 136. 
 
 THE GRAIN COAST, 137. 
 
 Grand Bissaw, River Sestros, or Sesters, Sangwin, Krou Settra 137 : 
 Cape Palmas, Cape Shoal, Coley's Rock, THE IVORY COAST, Cavally, 
 Tahou 138: St. Andrew's Bay, Lahou, Grand Bassam, THE GOLD 
 COAST, Cape Appollonia, Axim 139 : Cape Three Points, Dixcove, 
 St. George del Mina, Cape Coast Castle 140 : Annamaboe, Winebah, 
 Accra 141 : The River Volta, Remarks upon the appearance of the 
 land on the Gold Coast 142. 
 
 BIGHT OP BENIN, 144. 
 
 Cape St. Paul, Little Popoe, Great Popoe, "Whyda 144 : Griwhee, 
 Ardrah, Badagry, River Lagos 145: River Benin, Waree, 146: The 
 River Escravos, Cape Formosa 1 47 : Bight of Biafra, The Quorra 
 River, or Niger, New Calabar and Bonny Rivers 148 : Seasons 150 : 
 Old Calabar River 151 : Seasons, Current 152 : The Homeward 
 Passage, Rio del Rey, or King's River, The High Land of Camaroens, 
 153: River Bimbia, Camaroens and Malimba Rivers 154: River 
 Campo, St. Benito, Corisco Bay, River Gaboon 156. 
 
 SECTION V. 
 
 THE ISLANDS OF FERNANDO Po, PRINCE'S, ST. THOMAS'S AND ANNO 
 
 BON, ." 157. 
 
 Fernando Po, George Bay, Goat and Kid Islands 1 57 : Maidstone 
 Bay and Clarence Cove, Remarks of Commander Fishbourne 158: 
 Prince's Island, Port St. Antonio, Agulhas, or West Bay, St. Thomas' 
 159 : Man-of-war Bay, St. Anna de Chaves Bay, or Roadstead, Rolas 
 Island 160: Anno Bon, Nautical Observations, on a Voyage to the 
 Gold Coast 161. 
 
 SECTION VI. 
 
 CAPE LOPEZ TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, 168. 
 
 Fanaes Islet, Cape Lopez, The River Mexias, The River Sette 168 : 
 Cape Yumba, Loango Bay, Cabenda Bay 169 : River Zaire, or Congo
 
 VI 
 
 170 : Ambriz Bay, St. Paul de Loando 171 : Curimba Cove, Cape 
 Ledo, St. Philip de Benguela 172 : Little Fish Bay, Cape Negro, 
 Port Alexander, Great Fish Bay, Walwich Bay, Sandwich Harbour, 
 or Port d 'Ilheo, The Alligator Rocks, Spencer's Bay, Angra Pequena 
 174 : : Elizabeth Bay, Cape Voltas, St. Helen, or Helena Bay, Sal- 
 danah Bay 175 : Hoetjes Bay, Bavian's Bay, Dassen, or Coney Island 
 176 : Robben, or Penguin Island, Cape of Good Hope, Table Bay, 
 Cape Town 177: False Bay 181 : Simon's Bay, Seal Island 182: 
 Gordon's Bay 183 : Tides 184. 
 
 SECTION VII. 
 
 ISLANDS, ROCKS, AND DANGERS IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN, 185. 
 
 Silhouette Vigia, Aquila Reef, Bouvet Sandy Island, Triton's Bank, 
 Shoal of Manoel Luis 186 : Crown Reef, Prince's Shoal, Submarine 
 Volcano, Fernando de Noronha 187: The Roccas, Ascension Island 
 188: Reported Danger to the N. E. of Ascension 196: St. Helena 
 197: Bank of Antonio Viana, Martin Vas Rocks 200: Congress 
 Bank : Isle of Trinidad, Island Ascensao 201 : Columbus, or Saxem- 
 burgh Island, Grant Breakers, Laurel Shoal, Trista d'Acunha, Inac- 
 cessible Island 202 : Lennon, or Hibernia Reef 203 : Robson's Reef, 
 Telemaque Rock, Ariel Rocks 204 : Gough Island, Isla Grande 205 : 
 Bouvet's, or Circumcision Island, L'Aigle Shoal 208 : Aurora Isles, 
 The Shag Rocks, Kain's Islet, Pottinger's Bank 209 : Islands of Alex- 
 ander and Peter, Icebergs 210. 
 
 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS, &c., &c., 210. 
 
 East Falkland Island 212: Falkland Sound 215: The Western 
 Islands 216: Port Egmont 217: West Point Harbour 218: New 
 Island, Port Edgar 219: South Georgia 220: The Sandwich Land 
 221 : Candlemas Isles 222 : Montague and Bristol Islands, South Shet- 
 land 224 : Adelaide Island, General Remarks, Bridgman's Island 226 : 
 Tides, Winds 227. 
 
 SECTION VIII. 
 
 COAST OF BRAZIL, 228. 
 
 General Directions 228 : Cape St. Roque 229 : Banks of St. Roqae, 
 Point do Mel, Angerstein Reef 230 : Aracati 231 : Ciara 233 : Re- 
 marks, Jericoacoara 235 : Pernabao, or Paranahyba, The River Per- 
 guicas 236 : Bank off the Coast of Para, Island of Santa Anna, Direc- 
 tions for the Navigation from Ciara to Maranham 237 : Maranham, St. 
 Luiz 239 : Sailing Directions 240 : St. Joao, or St. John's Island, Rio 
 Para 244 : General Remarks on leaving Maranham and returning to 
 Europe 249 : Shoal of Manoel Luiz 250 : Vigia 251. 
 
 THE EASTERN COAST, 251. 
 
 Natal 252 : Rio Parahyba 253 : Itamarca 254 : Pernambuco and 
 Olinda 255 : Cape St. Augustine 256 : Harbour of Pernambuco 257 : 
 Directions for Ships bound to Pernambuco 258 : Point Meracahipe, 
 Port Tamandare, Barra Grande 262 : Porto Calvo, Maceio, or Macayo 
 263 : Rio San Francisco, River Cotandiba, Rio Real, Itapicuru 265 : 
 Bahia, or Bay of All Saints 266 : Morro de St. Paulo 269 : St. George 
 dps Ilheos, Belmonte, Porto Seguro 270 : Monte Pascoal, Itacolomi, 
 The Abrolhos 271 : San Matbeo, Point Tubarao 273 : Espirito Santo,
 
 Vll 
 
 er Port Victorio 274 : Cape San Thome 275 : St. Anne's Bay 276 : 
 San Joao de Macahe, Ancoras, or Anchor Isles, Papagayos, or Parrot's 
 Bay, Cape Frio 277 : Port Frio, Cape Negro 278 : Rio Janeiro 279 : 
 Merchants' Road, The Port Regulations 282 : Nautical and Com- 
 mercial Observations on Rio de Janeiro 284 : Marambaya Island, The 
 Ilha Grande 289 : Gairosu Bay, St. Sebastao, or St. Sebastian 290 : 
 Santos 291: Cananea, Paranagua, River Guaratuba 292: Island of 
 St. Catherine 293 : The Rio Grande 298 : Rio de la Plata, Winds, 
 Tides, &c. 303 : Soundings 305 : Maldonado Bay, Lobos to Flores, 
 &c. 307 : English Bank, Monte Video 308 : Potomac Bank 310 : 
 Chico Banks 312 : Buenos Ayres 313 : Landfalls, Description 316. 
 
 SECTION IX. 
 
 THE COASTS OP LA PLATA AND PATAGONIA, INCLUDING THE STRAIT OP 
 
 M AGALHAEN, 322. 
 
 Rio Negro 323 : St. Matthias Bay, Bahia Nueva, or New Bay, . 
 Port Santa Elena 324 : Cape Two Bays, Port Malaspina 325 : Cape 
 Three Points, Cape Blanco 326 : Port Desire 327 : Penguin Island, 
 Sea Bear Bay 328 : Ferrer, or Spyring Bay, Watchman's Cape, The 
 Bellaco Rock, Port St. Julian 329 : Santa Cruz, Weddel's Bluff 330 : 
 Coy Inlet 331 : Cape Fairweather, River Gallegos 332 : Strait of 
 Magalhaen 333 : Cape Virgins, Cape Possession, The First Narrow 
 335 : The Second Narrow 336 : Peckett's Harbour 337 : Laredo Bay, 
 Sandy Point, Point St. Mary 338 : Tides, Port Famine 339 : Useless 
 Bay, Dawson Island, Port San Antonio, The Gabriel Channel 340 : 
 Port Cooke, Admiralty Sound, Cape St. Valentyn 341 : Magdalen 
 Sound : Mount Boqueron, Warp Bay 342 : Prowse Islands, Dynely 
 Sound, Melville Sound, Barbara Channel 343 : Bynoe Island, Bedford 
 Bay, Broderip Bay, Shag Narrows 344 : Smyth Harbour 345 : Winds, 
 River Sedger, Cape San Isidro, Eagle Bay, Bouchage Bay 346 : 
 Choiseul Bay and Nash Harbour, Jerome Channel, Otway Water 351 : 
 Skyring Water, Tides, Crooked Reach, Borja Bay 352 : El Morrion, 
 or St. David's Head, Cape Quod, Barcelo Bay, Arce Bay, Long Reach, 
 Swallow Harbour 353 : Stewart's Bay, Abra Bay, Glacier Bay 354 : 
 Marian's Cove, Half Port Bay, Medal Bay, Gulf of Xaultegua, Tides, 
 Sea Reach 355 : Cape Upwright, Cape Tamar, Tamar Island 356 : 
 Sholls Bay, Cape Cuevas, Cape Parker 357 : Westminster Hall, Sir 
 John Narborough's Islands, Skyring Harbour, Cape Pillar, The Evan- 
 gelists, or The Isles of Direction, Directions for passing through 
 the Strait of Magalhaens, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, Tides 
 358 : Directions for passing through the Strait of Magalhaens, from 
 the Pacific to the Atlantic 360. 
 
 TlERRA DEL FlTEGO, 362. 
 
 Cape Pillar, Dislocation Harbour 362 : Cape Deseado, Barrister 
 Bay, Landfall Islands, Cape Inman, Cape Schetky, Otway Bay, Finch- 
 am Islands, Cape Gloucester 363 : Euston Bay, Grafton Islands, Ip- 
 swich Island, Laura Basin, Noir Island, Cape Schomberg, The Agnes 
 Islands 364 : Milky Way, London Island, Stewart Harbour, London- 
 derry Islands 365 : Christmas Sound, Wood Islands, Leading Hill, 
 Henderson Island, False Cape Horn 366 : Schapenham Bay, Orange 
 Bay, Nassau Bay, Eastern Patagonia, Hermite Islands 367 : Cape 
 Horn, St. Martin's Cove, Port Maxwell, The Barnevelt Islands 368 : 
 Cape Good Success, Cape San Diego 369 : Strait Le Maire, Staten 
 Island, Remarks upon the Passage round Cape Horn 370.
 
 Vlll 
 
 SECTION X. 
 
 TRACKS ACROSS THE ATLANTIC, 372. 
 
 England to Brazil 372 : Coast of Brazil to the Cape of Good Hope 
 373 : Cape of Good Hope to St. Helena, St. Helena to the Equator, 
 and thence Homewards 374 : Sailing up the English Channel 375 : To 
 the Senegal and Back, Outwards 380 : Senegal to Goree, Homewards 
 381 : To and from the West Indies, To North America, Nova Scotia, 
 Newfoundland, &c., 382 : Ships bound to the Gulf of St. Lawrence 
 383 : To St. John's, Newfoundland 384 : To Halifax, Nova Scotia 385 : 
 To the Bay of Fundy 386 : Cape Cod to Boston 387 : Banks in the 
 Bay of Fundy, Vessels Bound to New York, To Philadelphia 388 : 
 Entrance of the Chesapeake 390 : Charles Harbour, Tides 391. 
 
 SECTION XL 
 
 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF WINDS, TIDES, CURRENTS, &c., 393. 
 
 Winds in general, Constant, Periodical, and Variable, Trade-winds, 
 Their influence in the North, South, and Pacific, Oceans 393 : Mon- 
 soons, Land and Sea Breezes 395 : Hurricanes, Whirlwinds, Water- 
 Spouts, Tides 396 : Currents 399 : On the Ocean, Its Saltness and 
 Temperature 402 : Tables of the Temperature of the Atlantic Ocean, 
 in different degrees of Longitude 405. 
 
 SECTION XII. 
 
 TABLE OF LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES, 407- 
 
 England, Wales, and Ireland 407 : France, Spain, and Portugal 408 : 
 Western Coast of Africa 409 : Azores, or Western Islands, Madeira 
 Islands, Canary Islands 412 : Cape de Verd Islands, Islands in the 
 Gulf of Guinea 413 : Bermudas, Greenland, Labrador, and New- 
 foundland 414 : Gulf and River St. Lawrence 415 : Nova Scotia and 
 Bay of Fundy 416 : The United States 417 : The West Indies 418 : 
 Cuba and Jamaica 419 : Hayti, or St. Domingo, Porto Rico, &c., 
 Caribee and Virgin Islands 421 : Leeward Islands 422 : Colombia, 
 Mexico, &c. 423 : Coast of Brazil 424 : Patagonia, and Tierra del 
 Fuego 428.
 
 SUPPLEMENT, 
 
 1847. 
 
 BREST. A notice was issued on the 18th of November, 1845, requiring 
 that all vessels entering the bay, upon arriving at the Roads, to make 
 direct for the guard ship, which is the outermost anchored ship, with jury 
 masts, and carrying a blue and white burgee at the fore. They will be 
 hailed from the guard-ship and told where to anchor ; a yellow flag, fur- 
 nished by the guard- ship, is to be hoisted and kept flying, until the ship 
 is released from quarantine, by the doctor of the board of health, whose 
 boat attends as soon as possible ; libre pratique is then granted. This 
 regulation is said to be common to all the Naval Ports of France. Page 2. 
 
 SAINTS LIGHT. On the northern part of the island of Saints, which 
 is the largest of this group of islands, is a tower which exhibits a flashing 
 light of the first order, at an elevation of 141 feet above the base of the 
 tower, and 1 48 feet above the level of high water, at equinoctial spring 
 tides. The flashes, which appear every four minutes, are preceded and 
 followed by short eclipses, but which, however, are not total within the 
 distance of 3 leagues. The weaker light continues about 3 minutes, and 
 between the flashes is visible, in clear weather, from 18 to 20 miles. Lat. 
 48 2' 40" N., Long. 4 51' 58" W. Page 3.* 
 
 BEG DU RAZ LIGHT. A brilliant fixed light is shewn from a 
 building erected on the highest part of this point, in lat. 48 2' 22" N., 
 long. 4 43' 52'' W. It is 46 feet above the base of the building, and 259 
 feet above the level of high water, at equinoctial spring tides. In clear 
 weather this light can be seen 6 leagues off". Page 3. 
 
 NOTE. The Saints light is 5$ sea miles from the Bee du Raz light, on the 
 bearing of N. 86 50' W. This bearing, which is likewise the general direc- 
 tion of the whole chain of rocks called the " Chausee de Sein," passes about 4 
 cables' length to the S. of the N. W. extreme of the chain, which is 9 miles 
 from the Sein light, and 14| miles from that on the Bee du Raz. In ap- 
 proaching these rocks from the westward, the first light seen will be the 
 flashing light on the Isle of Saints, and a single bearing of it will indicate 
 to the mariner whether he is to the N. or S. of the line of direction of the 
 two lights. In clear weather the Bee du Raz light will not be seen till the 
 vessel is within 4 or 5 miles of the western extreme of the chain of rocks. 
 When it is intended to pass to the southward of the rocks, a course should 
 be steered so as to open the light on the Bee du Raz to the right, or south- 
 ward of that on the Isle of Saints. But if it be intended to pass to the 
 northward, or to enter the Iroise, no time should be lost in quickly opening 
 the Bee du Raz light to the left, or northward of that on the Isle of Saints. 
 Page 3. 
 
 * This light bears a great resemblance to the Penfret light (on one of the Glenan Islands) 
 but this resemblance cannot occasion any mistake, as the light of Penfret is within the horizon 
 of the great light at Penmark, the flashes of which are at half minute intervals, and which, in 
 fine weather, are seen as far as the Bee du Raz.
 
 PENMARK POINT LIGHT revolves. It is exhibited from a tower, 
 134 feet above the sea, which renders it risible about 13 miles. The 
 eclipses take place every half minute, but in ordinary weather they do not 
 appear total within the distance of 3 leagues. Page 3. 
 
 ISLE OF GROUAIS LIGHT is exhibited from Pen-men, the N. TV. 
 point of the island. It is fixed and visible about 18 miles. A small fixed 
 light, visible 9 miles, is also shewn from Fort de la Croix ; but it is intend- 
 ed at some future period to replace the wooden building on which the light 
 is shewn, by a small stone tower, which will exhibit a bright light, varied 
 every 2 minutes by a red flash. 
 
 It is to be remarked that vessels coming from the southward will per- 
 ceive the light on Belle Island (revolving every minute) before the light 
 on Pen-men point can be seen; and in approaching the Isle of Grouais, 
 the small light on the eastern point of the island will be seen at the same 
 time as the new light on the N. W. point of the island. In like manner 
 vessels coming from the westward will be exposed to no risk of mistaking 
 the lights, for before the light on Pen-men Point will be visible, they will 
 almost always have seen the great Penmark light, described above, and 
 also the light on Penfret island, which flashes every four minutes. Page 4. 
 
 HEDIC. A small fixed light is shown about 300 feet from the eastern 
 point of the island. It is 85 feet above the level of high water, and may 
 be seen about 9 miles off. Page 5. 
 
 RIVER VILAINE. A small fixed light is shewn from the turret of 
 a tower erected on Penau point, the north point of the entrance to the 
 river. It is 52 feet above high water mark and visible 9 miles. Page 6. 
 
 ST. NAZAIRE. On the head of the new mole is a fixed light of the 
 fourth order. It is 26 feet above the level of high water, and may be seen 
 8 miles off. Page 7- 
 
 LAVARDIN REEF. A white stone beacon, 33 feet above high 
 water, has lately been erected on the reef, thus more perfectly denoting its 
 situation. But the La Rochelle light is so placed, that the Lavardin and 
 Chauveau rocks will be avoided by keeping the light open to the southward 
 of the lantern tower, which stands 23 yards to the westward of it. Page 9. 
 
 RIVER GIRONDE. Inside the river have lately been placed the 
 following lights : A light vessel in four fathoms on the eastern edge of the 
 Tallais Bank, which exhibits a fixed light, 33 feet above the surface of the 
 water, and is so marked as not to lead into the channel which lies to the 
 westward of the bank. It lies with the following marks and compass 
 bearings. Point de Grave fixed light, N. by W. f "W., distant 5047 
 fathoms; Talmont Steeple E. ^ N. 3527 fathoms, and the red harbour light 
 at Richard, S. ^ E. 4484 fathoms. A bell is rung during foggy weather. 
 Richard, red harbour light, is fixed and visible 8 miles. Tour de Terre Negre, 
 a fixed light, 118 feet above the sea, visible 10 miles.* Royan. A small 
 harbour light visible 6 miles. Pauillac. A fixed harbour light at the 
 landing place, visible 2 leagues ; and Blaye harbour light visible 4 miles. 
 Page 10. 
 
 BASSIN d'ARCACHON. On Cape Ferret, northern side of the Bassin, 
 3281 yards from the entrance, is a lighthouse, which exhibits a fixed light, 
 167 feet above the sea, visible about 18 miles. Lat. 44 38' 43', N., long. 
 1 14' 53', "W. Page 11. 
 
 * This light is intended to facilitate the navigation of the north passage, and to avoid the 
 English Bar. It is not visible south of a line passing through the Tour de Terre Negre and 
 that of St. Palais, bearing from each other N. W. by W. and S. E. by E. nearly.
 
 Bl ARITZ, On Point St. Martin de Biaritz, at the distance of 2^ miles, 
 S. 33 W. from the mouth of the Adour, is a lighthouse, from which a re- 
 volving light is exhibited. The flashes succeed each other every half 
 minute, and in clear weather, can be seen by an observer, whose eye is 33 
 feet above the sea, about 8 leagues. The eclipses are not total within the 
 distance of 4 leagues. Lat. 43 29' 38", N., long. 1 33' 6 7 W. Page 15. 
 
 SOCOA. The lighthouse on the point exhibits a fixed light, visible 21 
 miles. Page 15. 
 
 ST. SEBASTIAN. A fixed light is shown from a tower erected on 
 Mount Orgullo. It is 205 feet above the level of the sea, and visible from 
 15 to 16 miles. The light is only exhibited during the winter months, 
 from September 14th to May 3rd. A light, exhibited on Mount Igueldo, 
 has now been discontinued. Page 19. 
 
 SANTANDER. A lighthouse has lately been erected on Cape Mayor, 
 the western point of the harbour. The lights shown from it are 330 feet 
 above the sea; the upper and lower parts fixed, the intermediate re- 
 volving once in a minute. In clear weather the flashes may be seen 7 
 leagues, but by one elevated 40 feet above the sea, they can be seen 9 
 leagues. With the Vientor de Travesia, or wind upon the beam, caution 
 is required not to mistake the distance on approaching the coast. Page 24. 
 
 RIVADEO. The hermitage on Mt. St. Marks is said to no longer 
 exist. Page 26. 
 
 OPORTO. For fixed light read revolving light, eclipsed every 6 
 minutes. Page 37. 
 
 ROCK OF LISBON. The light on this Cape has lately been altered 
 from a fixed to a revolving light, each revolution being completed in two 
 minutes. During the first minute it presents a red light, the greatest in- 
 tensity of which, continues 30 seconds, and during the second minute it 
 presents a bright light, the greatest intensity of which also continues 30 
 seconds. 
 
 The light is in lat. 38 46' 5" N., long. 9 29' W., and being 498 feet 
 above the level of the sea, can be seen 8 or 9 leagues distant. Page 41. 
 
 CAPE CARVOEIRO. The revolving light on this point has lately 
 been converted to a fixed light, for the purpose of creating a greater dis- 
 tinction from the Berlings light. Page 40. 
 
 CAPE ST. VINCENT. From this cape is now shown a revolving 
 light, visible 19 miles. Each revolution of the light is performed in two 
 minutes, in the course of which period, a brilliant light appears for a short 
 time, and is then succeeded by darkness. The lighthouse appearing like a 
 church steeple, stands on the western part of the cape, in lat. 37 2' 9" N. 
 long. 9 0' 0' W., and shows the light at an elevation of 221 feet above 
 the sea. Page 44. 
 
 VILLA NUEVA. Instructions for entering Signals made at the 
 Fort of Ferragueda on the east side of bay : 
 
 1. A red flag with a broad pendant under the same, indicates that 
 ships are to choose a proper place where to take a pilot on board. 
 
 2. A broad pendant with a red flag under the same, signifies that no 
 pilot can be sent on board. 
 
 3. The Portuguese flag with a red one under the same, is a signal that 
 ships must immediately return to sea again. 
 
 4. -A red flag by itself signifies that a ship may approach the bay to 
 take a pilot on board. 
 
 5. If it should happen that on account of stormy weather he could not 
 venture to leave the bay, and ships are forced to enter the same without 
 one, signals will be made with the red flag from the fort, 1 845. Page 44.
 
 GIBRALTAR. From Point Europa, eastern side of the bay is now 
 shown a fixed light. Page 54. 
 
 AZORES. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S. Five buoys are now laid down in this anchorage, 
 which considerably reduce the risk of vessels leaving their anchors and 
 chains behind them when they leave the road. 
 
 The following signals to ships have lately been established here, and are 
 made at the flag staff on Custom House Quay, Pouta Delgada : 
 
 1. A red flag : Vessels at anchor should immediately weigh on ac- 
 count of the weather. 
 
 2. A white flag : .Vessels in sight may safely make for the anchorage. 
 
 3. A red flag with a white border : Vessels must not send their boats 
 on shore, landing being dangerous. Page 60. 
 
 BERMUDAS OR SOMERS' ISLANDS. 
 
 On the 1st of May, 1846, a revolving light was established on the 
 southern part of this island, in latitude 32 s 14' N., long 64 51' W. 
 Every minute it brightens up into a strong glare, which continues for 6 or 
 8 seconds ; and as it is 365 feet above the level of the sea, it can be seen 
 7 or 8 leagues. The light can be seen on all bearings of the compass, ex- 
 cept those between N. 64 E. and N. 74 E., where it is intercepted by 
 high land. Within the distance of 7 miles a faint but permanent light 
 can be seen between the brilliant flashes. 
 
 REMARKS : At night or in thick weather it is advisable not to make 
 Bermuda to the north of 32 8' N. until the light or land can be seen. 
 In coming from the eastward, the light should not be brought to the south- 
 ward of W. by S., nor approached at night nearer than 6 or 7 miles. 
 While coming from the westward the light should not be approached 
 nearer than 12 miles, unless first brought to bear to the northward of N. E. 
 by E. A vessel making the light to the southward should haul off imme- 
 diately, as reefs extend from it to a distance of 16 miles to the northward. 
 
 To this may be added the following remarks made by Captain Barnett, 
 R. N., August, 1846. 
 
 Bermuda Light House stands in lat. 32 15' 04" N. long 64 51' 36" W. 
 Horizon intercepted between N. 43 24' E. and N. 47 34' E. by one hill, 
 and between N. 49 07' E. and N. 57 35' E. by another hill ; these being 
 the true bearings, and the variations of the compass being 27 00' W. 
 The light may be seen from an elevation of 10 feet, 23, 6 miles ; 20 feet, 
 25 miles ; 40 feet, 27 miles; 80 feet, 29, 8 miles; 100 feet, 30, 9 miles, 
 supposing no refraction in the atmosphere at the time. 
 
 Variation of the needle, 27 01' W.; dip of the needle, 62 26' 15" N. 
 Commander Barnett, October, 1845. Page 85.
 
 ROCKS, SHOALS, &c, IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC. 
 
 FORM1GAS OR ANTS' ROCKS. Captain Vidal who has lately been 
 employed surveying the Azores, reports that the position of the Formigas 
 is incorrect as laid down in the Charts from Tofino's survey. The following 
 is his report to the Hydrographer to the Admiralty. 
 
 " It is with regret and vexation I have to state that I find Tofino con- 
 siderably in error in that celebrated hydrographer's work relative to this 
 locality. 
 
 " Tofino, in his Sailing Directions, states, that these rocks were landed on, 
 in order to observe various points of the island of St. Mary, and that from 
 the centre of the larger island Point Castelo on St. Mary's bears S. 24- 
 30' W., and the Pico Alto on the same island, S. 34 30' W., and having 
 observed on its parrallel and very close to it the latitude may be confi- 
 dently stated at 37 17' 10" N. 
 
 " The angles, as observed by Captain Vidal, were Point Castelo S. 29 
 05' W., and Pico Alto S. 40 38' W. ; but yet being unwilling to think 
 Tofino in error, he landed again the next afternoon, and the result of that 
 day's observations were Point Castelo S. 29 2' W., and Pico Alto S. 40 
 36' W. Tofino and his people must therefore be in error, differing from 
 Captain Vidal in his bearings of Point Castelo 4 35' more easterly, and 
 Pico Alta 6 08' more easterly. This difference in bearing is on a distance 
 of 23 miles." Nautical Magazine^ 1844. Pages 47 and 89. 
 
 DOLLABARATS' SHOAL is a shoal lying to the S. E. of the Formi- 
 gas, seen by P. Dollabarats, commander of a French vessel belonging to 
 Bayonne, while on his return voyage from Martinique, in 1788, but 
 hitherto considered doubtful, principally from want of sufficient evidence 
 as to its existence. 
 
 The following lately appeared in the Shipping Gazette, respecting the 
 Dollabarats' Shoal. " Lisbon, Dec. 6th, 1843. A notice has been issued 
 by the Minister of Marine, to the effect that a shoal, with 11^ feet water 
 on it, has been discovered about 4 miles to the S. Eastward of the "Formigas" 
 or Great Formiga Rock, in the vicinity of the Azore Islands. The posi- 
 tion of it observed by Captain Vinal is lat. 37 13' 30" N., and it bears 
 from the Formigas, S. 44 E. (true) distant 83 miles." It is a fearful 
 danger, the least water found on it was eleven feet at low water. It is 
 also a most insidious danger, only shewing itself when there is a high swell 
 or sea." Pages 47 and 89. 
 
 PRONK ROCKS. The following has been communicated to the Nau- 
 tical Magazine, by Captain Fokhens, of the Dutch ship Rhoon and 
 Pendrecht. 
 
 " Captain a Pronk, of the Dutch barque De Hoop, reports that on his 
 passage from Batavia to Rotterdam, in the North Atlantic Ocean, near 
 the Azores, April 6th, 1844, in the afternoon, sailing with a strong breezo 
 and fine weather, being on the quarter deck with his officers, they were 
 much alarmed by some of his people in the foretop, calling out that they 
 saw a large rock close by on the lee-bow. The captain immediately or- 
 dered the helm to be put down, and the vessel luffed up three or four 
 points, to avoid the danger; with astonishment they saw several rocks 
 plainly visible from deck to every man on board. They passed them within 
 a cables' length, and Captain Pronk says, that it was an extensive group 
 of rocks, with several points above water, some of them more than sixteen 
 feet in height, against which the sea broke furiously. The captain places 
 this danger in lat. 38 32' N. and long. 33 16' W., by very good observa-
 
 tions and chronometer ; the next day they saw the Western Islands, and 
 found the longitude by chronometer very exact." Page 89. 
 
 This may possibly owe its existence to recent volcanic action ; that it 
 has existence we have 110 doubt, as dangers have before been reported in 
 this neighbourhood. See note 19. Page 98. 
 
 TULLOCH REEF. This reef has probably submerged, as Captain 
 Wilkes, who was sent out by the United States' Government, in 1838, to 
 explore hidden dangers in the Atlantic, searched for it without success. 
 He says, " On the night of the 13th September, we laid by, just after 
 passing the north end of St. Michael's, in order to examine the position of 
 the Tulloch Reef by daylight. We passed within a mile and a half of its 
 reported position, but saw nothing of it, although the sea was running 
 sufficiently high to have made a heavy break on it, if it did exist." Cap- 
 tain Vidal also sought in vain for it. Pages 89 and 99. 
 
 JOSYNE ROCKS. The Penningham, Captain Purchase, from Laguna, 
 at Liverpool, reports on the 19th February, on the passage out to Vera 
 Cruz, at llh. 30m. a. m., having passed within 20 feet of a rock which 
 was supposed to be the Josyne Rock, but not in the same latitude and 
 longitude as laid down in the chart, but by his latitude by observation, 30 
 13' N., longitude by chronometer 28 18' W. The rock was shaped like 
 a sugar loaf. Shipping Gazette, Aug. 20th, 1846. Page 89. 
 
 SHOAL ON THE BANKS OP NEWFOUNDLAND. A shoal with only 21 feet 
 water upon it was discovered by Jesse Ryder, Master of the fishing 
 schooner Bethel, (belonging to Province Town, Massachusets,) on the 
 Grand Bank of Newfoundland, in lat. 46 30' N., having observed on the 
 shoal, and observed it distinctly, it being a rock of about 100 or 200 feet 
 surface, supposes it to be about 50 miles east of the Virgin Rocks. Shoal 
 bears from Nine- fathom Bank, S. by W. by compass about \\ miles, dis- 
 covered it accidentally while searching for the Nine-fathom Bank, to fish 
 on. Am certain it was not any part of the Virgins, for I afterwards saw 
 them, and from my experience of the different fishing grounds, know this 
 shoal to exist. 
 
 This information I obtained from Mr. Ryder himself, and took a sketch 
 from one that he had in the American Consul's Office at this place. 
 Walter Douglas, Commander of the Unicorn Steam Packet, Halifax, Feb. 
 1845. Nautical Magazine, 1845, Page 267. Page 88. 
 
 ORION ROCK. " We have received the following communication 
 from Liverpool. The master of the Orion, belonging to our port, Luytjas, 
 from Trinidad de Cuba, arrived in the Weser, has furnished the following 
 particulars of a rock fallen in with ; On my voyage from Trinidad de 
 Cuba for Bremen, we perceived, May 5th, lat. 34 51' N. long. 72 28' 
 W. a rock about two feet above water. It had the appearance of a water 
 cask of two or three hogsheads. AVe were at a distance of only twenty 
 feet from the rock, when we fortunately in time discovered it. On none 
 of my sea charts (and I had several of the most recent on board,) was 
 this rock to be found. Bremen, July 17th, 1845." Nautical Magazine, 
 1845. Page 89. 
 
 DYET ROCKS. "On my passage from St. Kitt's to London, and 
 when off Bermuda, May 17th, 8h. a. m., we passed within 30 or 40 feet 
 of two sunken rocks, having 6 or 8 feet over them, it being very smooth 
 at the time, in lat. 32 46' N., at noon, long. 59 W., by a good chrono- 
 meter, and by several lunar observations previously. I strongly suspect 
 they are the rocks marked as doubtful in lat. 32 30' N., long. 59 W." 
 Robert Dyet, Master of the Barque Catherine Greeme. Nautical Maga- 
 zine, August, 1845. Page 89.
 
 HILTON ROCKS. The following was communicated to the Nautical 
 Magazine, 1845, by Mr. Livingston, of Liverpool. 
 
 " Barque Secret, from Valparaiso to Liverpool, 12th May, 1845. While 
 observing a meridian altitude, breakers were reported ; they were of no 
 great extent, but Mr. II. plainly saw some objects in the hollows of the 
 waves, which he felt certain were heads of rocks. The swell was very 
 heavy, and he thinks in smooth water they would be nearly in a level with 
 the surface of the sea. The breakers were about 1^ or 2 miles S. W. (by 
 compass) from the vessel, and at the time she was running 7| or 8 knots, 
 with steering sails set, so there was not much time for very particular 
 remarks. 
 
 "The latitude stated 39 18' N., and longitude 35 50' W., was from 
 meridian observations, and the longitude from the mean of these observa- 
 tions, viz. : their own chronometers, the chronometer of a ship in company, 
 and a lunar taken by Mr. H. himself, the same afternoon." Page 89. 
 
 CAESAR'S BREAKERS. The following confirmation of their exist- 
 ence appeared in the Nautical Magazine, 1846. Page 613. 
 
 " On the night of the 4th of July last, at 7 p. m., fresh breeze, ship 
 running 6 knots, saw breakers on the larboard bow, distance a quarter of 
 a mile, strong current setting towards them, wore ship and stood along 
 them ; when first seen, they bore by compass, N. W. by N., and seemed 
 to be a long ledge of rocks in a crescent shape ; at 3 a. m. the following 
 morning, saw the south east end of the reef on the starboard bow ; a 
 strong breeze coming on prevented us making any further examination ; 
 the man, in heaving the lead, struck it upon a hard rock, but had no bot- 
 tom the second cast. 
 
 " There can be no doubt as to the existence of this reef, and so convinced 
 were the crew, that they stood ready to clear the long boat, neither was 
 it any optical delusion from effect of current or phosphorescence of the sea. 
 
 " As they are in the longitude of vessels crossing the equator, it is sur- 
 prising they have not been reported ; by good sights at noon, with chrono- 
 meter and computation of distance run, their position when seen, was lat. 
 3 07' N., long. 24 14' W. Charles Price, Supercargo. Page 90. 
 
 COAST OF AFRICA. 
 
 CAPE MESURADO. From this point is now shown a fixed light. 
 Page 136. 
 
 CAPE PALMAS. From this cape is now shown a fixed light 74 feet 
 high. Page 138. 
 
 S. W. COAST OF AFRICA. Commander Matson's, R. N., account. 
 Nautical Magazine, 1844. Page 129. 
 
 " ELEPHANT BAY is one of the best anchorages on this part of the 
 coast ; it is perfectly secure and sheltered from the only winds that blow, 
 the south and south-west. It may be known at a great distance by a very 
 high piece of table-land near the bottom of the bay, and under which is 
 the best anchoring ground ; that near the eastern shore is rocky in some 
 places. The rollers, or calema, which occasionally set in along the whole 
 coast, are not felt in this bay. Fkh can here be procured by the seine in 
 great abundance, and the hills abound in game and wild animals of all 
 descriptions, which, owing to there not being any inhabitants, are remark- 
 ably tame. This is by far the best place on the coast for refitting and
 
 8 
 
 refreshing the ship's company after a cruise. I have repeatedly anchored 
 here for a few hours, merely for the sake of giving the men a run on shore, 
 to wash their clothes, to bathe, and haul the seine. It is the only place 
 where this can be done with impunity ; the climate is very salubrious, 
 as is the whole coast to the southward of Salinas. Before anchoring in 
 this bay to refit, it would be as well to procure a bullock or two, and some 
 vegetables, at Little Fish Bay (lat. 15 13' S.) which can be purchased 
 there on very reasonable terms . Water cannot be procured in Elephant 
 Bay, excepting during a rainy season, which sometimes does not occur 
 once in five years ; there was not any rain whatever during the years 1840, 
 1841, 1842 ; but I have been informed that when the rains do set in, they 
 continue incessantly for weeks together, and the country then becomes 
 almost inundated. The appearance of a number of large water courses, 
 seems to corroborate this statement. Excellent oysters can be gathered 
 from the rocks on either side of the bay. Page 173. 
 
 "THE FRIAR'S ROCKS are in lat. 13 14' S., and long 12 44' E., and 
 are about 12 or 14 feet high. 
 
 " LUASH. In lat. 13 S. and long. 12 57' E. is a very snug harbour 
 for small vessels, completely sheltered from all winds. It is here that the 
 slave vessels belonging to Benguela generally embark their slaves. Page 
 173. 
 
 " SALINAS POINT is a piece of low flat sandy land, extending 5 or 6 miles 
 beyond the high land, and has a remarkable tree at its extreme point. 
 There is a reef to the southward of it, and the water between it and 
 Luash is shoal ; but to the northward of the point the shore is very bold, 
 there being 10 fathoms within a cable's length of the beach. It is how- 
 ever dangerous to approach it during the night, for the beach being of 
 white sand, and projecting so far from the high land behind it, renders it 
 difficult to be seen until very close. Many vessels have run on this beach 
 in a fine clear night. 
 
 "The coast between Salinas and St Philip's Bonnet does not ap- 
 pear to have been surveyed by Captain Owen, or so imperfectly 
 as to mislead strangers. The Sailing Directory gives the course 
 from Salinas to St. Philip's Bonnet, as E. N. E. E., but it is not possible 
 to make a direct course between these two points ; the land between them 
 forming the segment of a circle. A stranger having made the high land 
 of St. Philip's Bonnet before dark, bearing E. ^ S. or E. f S., 5 or 6 
 leagues, would not see the intervening low land, and would perhaps 
 (guided by the Charts and Sailing Directory) steer directly for the Bon- 
 net ; or he would consider east to be a safe course, but even this would 
 take his vessel on the beach, (off which there is no anchorage). 
 
 " When St. Philip's Bonnet bears E. S. E. you may steer directly for it, 
 and having passed it at any convenient distance, proceed into Benguela 
 Roads. A little to the westward of the Bonnet are several snug little 
 coves, where boats or small craft can lie unseen. In one of these a boat 
 belonging to the Waterwitch remained concealed for 9 days, watching a 
 slaver in Benguela Roads, which she captured on her leaving the anchor- 
 age, with 390 slaves on board. 
 
 " BAHIA TORTA is a fine spacious bay, having good and secure anchorage ; 
 but I had not an opportunity of making a survey. 
 
 " ST. PHILIP DE BENGUELA is in a wretched state of dilapidation and 
 decay ; the houses, originally of mud, are now falling to pieces. There is 
 scarcely any trade but that in slaves, and even that has been almost entirely 
 suppressed by British cruisers. The soil is perfectly barren, not the 
 slightest appearance of vegetation, excepting near the river Catumbela.
 
 On leaving this anchorage, a vessel should not bring the town to bear to 
 the westward of south until she is four or five miles distant, she will then 
 be clear of the shoal to the northward. Page 172. 
 
 " ANHA is a small river 9 miles E. by N. f N. ; from Lobito Point it 
 runs into a small bay, which may be known by trees close to the shore. 
 You may anchor in 7 fathoms with the river S. E. by S. two miles. 
 
 " LOGITO RIVER. In lat. 11 58' 30" S. and long. 13 45' 15" E., is 25 
 miles N. E. by E. from Lobito Point. It is an excellent watering place 
 when the sea is smooth, the water coming from the mountains, is perfectly 
 wholesome and better than at any other place on the coast. The most ex- 
 peditious plan is to haul the casks off to a boat anchored outside the surf, 
 and then raft them off to the ship, which cannot approach nearer than 1 
 miles to the shore. Logito may be known by the high bluff point which 
 forms the south point of the bay. 
 
 " From Logito the coast runs N. N. E. E. 39 miles to Quicombo Bay. 
 The shore is very bold, being formed of high perpendicular chalk cliffs, 
 which are seen at a great distance, when the sun shines to the westward 
 of the meridian. I have run up the coast from Lobito to Quicombo within 
 a mile of the shore, without having soundings with the hand line. 
 
 " WHALES' HEAD. In lat. 11 35' S. is a dark coloured point projecting 
 about a mile into the sea from the land on either side ; about two miles to 
 the northward is a remarkable piece of table-land near the beach. 
 
 " QtriciNGA. In lat. 11 29' S. is a cluster of native huts ; you can sel- 
 dom land here except in surf boats. 
 
 " QUICOMBO. The south point of this bay is in lat. 11 20' S., long. 13 
 48' E., off which is a rocky shoal, on which the sea sometimes breaks, and 
 which extends about a mile to seaward. There is good anchorage in the 
 bay, excepting during the time of the rollers or calema, and then it is re- 
 quisite to anchor outside the point. To enter the bay you should keep 
 the village bearing S. or S. by W., when you may anchor at any conveni- 
 ent distance. The inner anchorage is with the village bearing S. by W., 
 the south point S. "W. by "W., and the north bluff point N. E. by N., or 
 with the fort at Novo Redondo just shut in by the latter. On leaving the 
 bay you should not come any higher than north-west until you are well 
 clear of the shoal off the south point. The bay may be known at a dis- 
 tance by a white road leading from the village over the mountains. It is 
 8 miles S. "W. by S. from Novo Redondo. 
 
 " Novo REDONDO. The fort is in lat. 11 12' S., long. 13 50' 30" E. 
 I found it to be Ih. 18m. 23secs. east of St. Helena time office, and Oh. 2m. 
 2secs. east of Banguela Fort, by careful and repeated chronometric 
 admeasurements. The town is considered to be the third in point 
 of size and consequence in the Portuguese possessions, but the fort appears 
 to be in a very dilapidated state. Stock of all kinds may be procured here, but 
 no water. You can seldom land excepting in the surf boats, a number of 
 which are always in readiness on the beach, though not always at the ser- 
 vice of British Officers. The best anchorage is with the fort bearing E. 
 S. E. in from 4 to 7 fathoms. The town may be known by the large 
 white houses on the hill, or at a greater distance by the very high moun- 
 tains behind it. Page 172. 
 
 "OLD BENGUELA HEAD. In lat. 10 47' 30" S. and long. 13 41' E., 
 is about 27 miles north of Novo Redondo ; it is a high bold promontory, 
 steep at its extremity. Between this and Novo Redondo the coast has 
 not been very accurately surveyed, but sufficiently so for common purposes ; 
 you may boldly approach any part of it, as the water deepens when to the 
 northward of Novo Redondo. In lat. 11 1' S., there is a small bay in
 
 10 
 
 which slave vessels sometimes anchor to embark their slaves, or to wait for 
 instruction^. Page 172. 
 
 " CAPE ST. BRAS is N. W. 52 miles from Old Benguela Head ; the 
 coast between is formed of moderately high chalky cliffs, the soundings 
 are regular, with 10 fathoms two or three miles off shore. 
 
 " Rio LONGO. The entrance is in lat. 10 19' 30" S. long. 13 31' E. This 
 has been a general rendezvous for slave vessels from Bengiu'la 
 and Saint Paul de Loando, from which places, the slaves are 
 marched overland. There are not any inhabitants; but wild animals 
 are seen in great numbers. 
 
 " RIVER COANZO. Only small vessels are enabled to cross the bar of 
 this river, and those only at high water, and when the sea is smooth. 
 When there is any swell the sea breaks wholly across the entrance. 
 
 " ST. PAUL DE LOANDO. I found the meridian distance between the 
 north-end of Loando Island and the time office at St. Helena to be Ih. 15m. 
 39secs., and between the former place and Benguela fort Oh. Om. 42sccs. 
 The trees on the Loando island, just open to the westward of fort San 
 Miguel, lead you clear of the outside edge of the shoal ; you may also 
 anchor on this bearing close to Loando island, but it is indifferent holding 
 ground. Good oranges may be procured here cheap. Page 171. 
 
 " AMHRIZ. The best anchorange in the bay is with the bluff cliff, or 
 south point, bearing S. E. by S. in fi or 7 fathoms. Ambriz may be 
 known by a thick green wood, close to the water, about a mile to the 
 northward of the town ; or at a greater distance by a high piece of saddle 
 land immediately behind it. Page 171. 
 
 " RIVER CONGO. When the sea breeze is not sufficiently strong to en- 
 able you to stem the current, you may steal round Shark's point, by keep- 
 ing as close as possible to the point (within 20 yards). At half flood the 
 current slackens, and an eddy sometimes runs up close to the shore. 
 
 " In the stream of the Congo, unless with a commanding breeze, a ves- 
 sel becomes quite unmanageable, owing to the strength of the superficial 
 or upper current, and will not answer her helm unless going 5 or 6 knots. 
 If, when endeavouring to enter the Congo, you arc driven over to the 
 Mona Mazea Bank, anchor instantly you gain soundings or you may be 
 driven on shore. On the left bank of $he river, about 5 or 6 miles below 
 Scotchman's Head is a shoal not laid down in Captain Owen's chart, every 
 man-of-war that has attempted to enter thus far has struck on it. Tlie 
 lead gives you no warning as the water suddenly shoals from 7 to 2 
 fathoms. Page 170. 
 
 " KABENDA or CABENDA is the most notorious slave-trading place on 
 this part of the coast ; all slaves collected in the river Congo and neigh- 
 bourhood are sent here for exportation. There is a dangerous shoal about 
 44 miles N. by E. ^ E. from the town of Porto Rico, on which the sea 
 sometimes breaks ; it is not noticed in the Admiralty charts or books of 
 directions. There is also another shoal to the southward and westward of 
 Kabenda point. In approaching Kabenda from the northward you should 
 not haul in for the bay until Porto Rico (a conspicuous town on the hill) 
 bears to the eastward of the south, and when approaching from the south- 
 ward not until Kabenda point bears south-east. These two bearings will 
 lead you clear of the shoals, and you may thus approach Kabenda point, 
 and anchor at any convenient distance. If desirous of entering the bay, 
 or inner anchorage, you should bring Kabenda point to bear S. S. E. or S. 
 E. by S., then steer directly for it until you shoal your water to three 
 fathoms ; you will then be on the south side of the entrance, which is 
 very narrow ; you may then steer along the south shore into the bay,
 
 11 
 
 giving Kabenda point a berth of three quarters of a mile. The best berth 
 in the inner anchorage is with the western Factory S. W., Porto llico S. 
 by "W., and the extreme point W. f N., in 3^ fathoms ; there is also good 
 anchorage in the entrance of the channel, in 4| fathoms, with Porto Rico 
 bearing S. by E. and Red Point S. W. | W. In the- offing you may anchor 
 at any distance, and in 35 fathoms, out of sight of land. 
 
 " To cross the stream of the river Congo from the northward, it is requi- 
 site either to go 200 miles off shore, or to keep in anchoring ground ; I 
 always choose the latter. If you are not certain of getting across the 
 stream before the sea breeze dies away, anchor on the Mona Mazea bank 
 in 6 or 7 fathoms, until the following day, when a two hours' sea breeze 
 will take you to the southward of Sharks' point, and you are then out of 
 the influence of the stream, which always runs to the N. N. "W. 
 
 " LOANGO BAY. Is known by a remarkable wood to the southward, or 
 by the red cliffs to the northward ; great care is requisite in approaching 
 this bay from the southward, as there is a shoal off the south-west point with 
 only two fathoms. To enter the bay you should bring the factory houses 
 to bear south-east ; then run in until you shoal your water, which you 
 do almost imperceptibly, and anchor at any convenient distance. The 
 fresh water here is very good, as it filters through the rocky mountains. 
 The most convenient anchorage for watering is with the south point 
 bearing S. W. by W. W., and a clump of trees on the hill, S. E. by E. 
 E., in 3 fathoms water. But I would not recommend a vessel to come quite 
 so close, without having previously sounded the bay. Stock of all kinds 
 can be procured here, on reasonable terms." Page 169. 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS BY COMMANDER MATSON, R. N.* 
 
 " SEASONS. On the west coast of Africa, south of the equator, the rains 
 begin generally early in November, and continue until the middle of April. 
 They are earlier on the coast of Angola and Benguela, and later to the north- 
 ward of the Congo. To the southward of 10 S. there is occasionally not any 
 rain whatever for several years; but sometimes in the months of November 
 and December, it falls in excessive quantities, and the country then be- 
 comes in parts almost inundated. There was not any rain near Benguela, 
 during the years 1840, 41, and 42; but the appearance of immence water 
 courses, in which were large trees that must have been carried by the 
 torrents many miles from the interior, amply corroborate this statement. 
 
 " About Kabenda and Malemba the rains are very heavy, from the 
 beginning of December until the middle of January. To the southward 
 of 10 S. the months of January and February are very fine, but oppres- 
 sively hot and sultry. 
 
 "The month of March and April are the most unhealthy. This is 
 owing to the exhalations from the earth after the heavy rains, which the 
 light sea breezes are not sufficient to dispel. 
 
 " From May to September are the most pleasant and healthy months ; 
 the sky at this time is generally overcast or cloudy; in the Months of 
 June, July, and August, a thick fog (called the "smokes") prevails; it is 
 not caused by exhalations, and is neither unwholesome nor unpleasant. 
 Tornadoes occur in September and October ; they generally blow from south- 
 east, and are not nearly so violent as those to the northward of the equator, 
 nor are they usually accompanied with heavy rain." 
 
 " WINDS. From Cape Voltas to Cape Negro the wind blows constantly 
 from south a double-reefed topsail breeze. From Cape Negro to Salinas 
 
 Nautical Magn7iiie, 1811, page 89.
 
 12 
 
 it continues to blow up the coast from S. S. "NV. ; it becomes more moderate 
 as you get to the northward ; and when to the northward of Cape Mary 
 frequently blows from S. W. and "W. S. W, 
 
 "Between Salinas and the river Congo the prevailing winds are south- 
 west during the year. The sea breeze generally sets in about 1 p. m. 
 from W. S. \V., it generally veers to the southward, and continues to blow 
 from S. S. W. or south during the greater part of the night, and becomes 
 very light or calm before daylight. When within 10 or 15 miles of the 
 shore, the land breeze will reach you, and continue sometimes from sunrise 
 until 8h. or 9h. a. m. ; but if 30 or 40 miles oft' shore you will generally 
 have a calm from sunrise until noon. The sea breeze occasionally sets in 
 from W. N. W. and N. W., and this happens more frequently in the 
 months of October, November, and December. During the " smokes" (in 
 June, July, and August) the winds are very light, and blow from S. and 
 S. S. E. during the whole twenty-four hours. 
 
 " At the distance of 80 or 100 miles oft' shore the south-west winds be- 
 come more regular, they gradually veer round to the southward and east- 
 ward, and imperceptibly unite with the south-east trade. A line drawn 
 from the Tropic of Capricorn, in long. 5 E. to the meridian of Greenwich, 
 in lat. 5 S., may be considered as the eastern limit of the south-east 
 trade. 
 
 " From the river Congo to Cape Lopez the land and sea breezes are not 
 so regular. From October to April the winds here are almost constantly 
 from S. S. W. and S. W. ; and heavy squalls from S. W. and W. occur in 
 December and January. From May to September the land and sea 
 breezes are more regular, the latter at this time often set in from W. N. 
 W., and blow during the night from S. W. and S. S. W., and then the 
 land breeze is only felt close to the shore. 
 
 " CURRENTS. A current is almost constantly running up the coast of 
 Africa from the Cape of Good Hope to the River Congo, at the average 
 rate of 1 mile an hour. It is here met by the impetuous stream of that 
 river, which runs with undeviating regularity to the N. W. and N. N. W.' 
 at the rate of from 2 to 4 miles in the hour, until it unites with the equi- 
 torial current, two or three degrees south of the equator. The stream of 
 the Congo is felt at the distance of 300 miles from its entrance, and may be 
 known by the clayey appearance of its waters, which are of a yellowish olive 
 green colour. From May to October the current occasionally runs to the 
 southward close to the shore, and continues to do so for 48 hours. 
 
 " ROLLERS or CALEMA. A day or two after the new moon, in the 
 months from May to September, a very heavy swell sometimes sets in 
 along the whole coast from 3 to 15 S. ; this occurs more frequently 
 during the " smokes." It renders the open bays very dangerous to re- 
 main at anchor in, where the water is very shallow. At this time it is 
 nearly a calm, never more than a very light breeze ; you can easily warp 
 outside of the heavier rollers by a small hawser ; or you may ride by a 
 kedge anchor and hawser; when the chain-cable would snap with jerks, 
 caused by the sudden influx of a large body of water into the bay. During 
 the period of the calema you cannot land on the coast, except in the surf 
 boats." 
 REMARKS on the coast from the Cape to Ichaboe by CAPTAIN MORRELL. * 
 
 " September 13th. We continued exploring the coast, keeping the boats 
 close in shore in search of fur-seal on every mile of the coast, until 
 
 * Narrative of four voyages by Captain Benjamin Monell. New York, 1832.
 
 13 
 
 Saturday, tho 1 3th of September, when we fell in with a small 
 island, in lat. 31 32' S., long. 17 56' E., about half-a-mile from the shore. 
 Here, for the first time, our search was successful. A small reef runs off 
 from the west end of this island, to the distance of about a hundred 
 fathoms. 
 
 "From this island we followed the shore to the north-westward, passing 
 Point Grazing, in lat. 31 20' S., and four places, which are said to be rivers, 
 viz., Zwarte Darn River, in lat. 30 45' S., not open ; Greene River, in lat. 
 30 33' S. not open; Zwarte Lintjie River, 30 21' S., not open ; and 
 Koussie River, in lat. 29 45' S., long. 16 57' E. ; the latter was open, and 
 may be passed in boats only at full sea. It is closed, however, at times 
 during the dry season, by the shifting of the sand-hills in windy weather. 
 This may be called Salt River, as the salt water runs up it about 15 miles, 
 10 miles of which is very shallow. This is the northern boundary of the 
 Cape colony. 
 
 " Many of the rivers which intersect this extensive colony are merely 
 periodical torrents, which continue to flow during the rainy season, but 
 which during the summer, leave their deep sunk beds almost completely 
 dry ; and the rivulets, which are supplied by the mountain springs, have 
 scarcely escaped from their lofty sources before they are either absorbed 
 by the thirsty earth, or evaporated by the heated air. Even the permanent 
 rivers, some of which contain sufficient water for the navigation of small 
 craft, for several miles up the country, are all, except the Knysna, render- 
 ed inaccessible by a bar of sand or a reef of rocks across the mouth. 
 
 "From the mouth of the Koussie river the coast trends N. N. W., a 
 little westerly, 28 leagues, to Cape Voltas, in lat. 28 24' S., long. 16 28' 
 E., variation per azimuth 25 55' W. There is a bank of soundings that 
 puts off to the west of this cape, about 30 miles, at which distance there 
 are 40 fathoms of water, the depth becoming gradually and regularly 
 reduced as we approach the shore. This bank extends southerly along 
 the coast, quite to the Cape of Good Hope, varying from 30 to 50 miles off 
 shore ; and from Point St. Martin's to the last-named cape there are many 
 dangers lying from 2 to 5 miles off shore. But north of St. Martin's to 
 Cape Voltas there are no dangers more than a quarter of a mile from the 
 land. Page 175. 
 
 "The Socos Islands, laid down on the charts as lying in lat. 29 35' S., 
 long. 16 34' E., said to be about 20 miles from the land, are not to be 
 found. They have been represented as four in number, with several 
 small islands between them and the continent. But I can assert possitive- 
 ly that no such islands exist, neither is there an island of any description 
 lying between St. Helena Bay and Cape Voltas more than half a mile from 
 the main. 
 
 " Cape Voltas is also very erroneously laid down in lat. 29 20' S., long. 
 16 31' E., with a deep bay running in on the north side of the cape, 25 
 miles, in an E. S. E. direction, with deep water all over the bay. Now 
 the true and correct situation of Cape Voltas is in lat. 28 27' 30" S., long. 
 16 17' E. The Cape is a high bluff point projecting into the sea, and 
 there are several rocks lying about half a mile to the west of it, beyond 
 which there are no dangers. About one mile north of the cape there is a 
 small bay, not more than two miles in length, and 1^ mile in breadth, 
 within which the anchorage is not safe, as the ground is foul, and heavy 
 rollers are continually heaving in from the westward, at all seasons of the 
 year. Ships, however, which are in want of firewood, may lie off and on, 
 and obtain any quantity from the head of the bay. The land around the 
 cape, and to the south as far as Koussie river, is high on the seaboard, run-
 
 u 
 
 ning back into elevated mountains. The hill sides are covered with very 
 good grass for feeding cattle, but the summits of these eminences are one 
 mass of volcanic productions. 
 
 " It is said there is no fresh water to be had on this coast, north of Cape 
 Voltas. But this is an error, as any quantity can be had in Voltas Bay, in 
 the rainy season, without the trouble of searching for it under ground. 
 But by digging fresh water may be had at all seasons of the year, at a 
 short distance at the head of the bay, where the landing is very safe and 
 conveniently sheltered by two small islands lying close to the beach, inside 
 of which the water is perfectly smooth. This is also a fine place to procure 
 bullocks' hides, fox skins, leopard skins, ostrich feathers, and many other 
 valuable articles. 
 
 " September 1 8th. After taking on board a sufficient quantity of wood 
 in four hours, we left Cape Voltas, and steered to the north, with a fine 
 breeze from the south, and fair weather. At 3 p. m. we reached the en- 
 trance of Gariep or Orange River, between which and Voltas Bay, on the 
 sea coast, the land is very low, sandy, barren, and desolate. It retains this 
 appearance for some distance from shore ; but after running back 6 or 8 
 miles, it begins to swell into hills, and still further back it rises into lofty 
 mountains, which stand on each side of the river, on tho banks of which 
 are a few Hottentot villages. The wealth of the inhabitants consists of 
 herds of cattle and sheep. 
 
 " ORANGE RIVER, though extensive in its course, is in the latter part of 
 the dry season, nearly closed at its entrance, and the water continues shal- 
 low 4 or It miles westward of the river's mouth. On this shoal the sea 
 breaks every full and change of the moon, as there is a heavy swell setting 
 in from the west at that time. There are many valuable minerals and 
 precious stones found in and about this river, and I have found a few grains 
 of gold dust at the river's mouth. 
 
 " Persons wishing to have communication with this river must land at 
 Voltas Bay, and walk to the banks of the Orange, as there is no landing 
 at or near its mouth in any season of the year, on account of the continual 
 heavy surf that is always rolling in on this from the westward. 
 
 "Taking our leave of Orange River, we continued examining the coast 
 to the N. N. W., along a straight shore, clear of dangers, until we came to 
 what is called Angras Juntas Bay, said to have an island at its entrance, 
 and a bay or lagoon within the island, running 6 leagues north and south, 
 completely sheltered from all winds. This I know is not the case, as I 
 have examined every rod of this coast with my boats, in broad daylight, 
 close to the outer edge of the surf on the beach. At the place called An- 
 gras Juntas there is a small bend in the land, running in to the eastward 
 about a mile, the width of its mouth being a mile and a half. Here ships 
 may find tolerable shelter, with southerly winds, and it is likewise a con- 
 venient place to have communication with the Hottentots, some of whom 
 reside about 5 miles to the north-east of this bay. There is a small rock 
 that stands to the south-west on the south point about two miles, with 
 deep water all round it. At the entrance of this bay there are 14 fathoms 
 Avater, which gradually lessen to 5 fathoms, about half a mile from tho 
 bottom of the bay, sandy bottom. But the best anchorage is under the 
 south shore, one-fourth of a mile from the point to the south-west, in G 
 fathoms, sandy ground. This place is situated in lat. 27 47' S., long. 1 j 
 50' E. Page 175. 
 
 " WHALE BAY. On September 20th, we arrived at Whale Bay, in 
 lat. 27 23' S., which is unsafe for ships to anchor in, on account of the 
 shoal water in every part of it ; but they may anchor outside of two
 
 small islands which front the bay, lying half a mile from the shore, on 
 which may be taken a few fur-seal?, in the proper season. The landing 
 on the south side of the bay is good, and an eligible place for trading with 
 the Hottentots, who inhabit a small village which stands in a pleasant val- 
 ley, ten miles inland. The coast along here is nothing but one sandy 
 desert, with the exception of a few rocky hills composed of volcanic 
 substances. 
 
 "From this place 'we followed the coast to Elizabeth Bay, which is 
 fronted by Possession Island. The centre of the island is in lat. 26 57' 
 S., long 15 8' E. Between this place and Cape Voltas there are many 
 small islets and reefs lying half a mile from the shore; but there arc no 
 dangers at double that distance from the land ; and ships, if becalmed, may 
 anchor 5 miles off the coast, in from 15 to 20 fathoms, sandy bottom. 
 These soundings extend along the whole range of coast. 
 
 " POSSESSION ISLAND is 3 miles in length and nearly one mile in 
 width ; forming, on the east side, a concave curvature, in which ships will 
 find good anchorage in from 7 to 4 fathoms, sandy bottom, and smooth 
 water. The landing is also good in front of the anchorage, near the centre 
 of the island, half a mile from the beach. There are a few sunken rocks 
 lying off the south point of the island, about three quarters of a mile, on 
 which the sea generally breaks. There is also a reef running off the north 
 east end of the island, about three miles, on which the breakers are fre- 
 quently very heavy. These reefs both incline to the eastward, which 
 promotes the smoothness of the water in the harbour. Between the island 
 and the continent, or rather between the extreme points of the reefs and 
 the mainland, the channel is three miles wide, with from 15 to 10 fathoms 
 water, sandy bottom and free from dangers. Ships intending to anchor at 
 this island while the south winds are fresh should approach the anchorage 
 from the south, and leave it by the opposite passage. Page 175. 
 
 "ANGRA PEQUENA BAY lies 17 miles to the north of Possession 
 Island. The westernmost point on the south side of the bay is in lat. 26 
 39' S., long. 15 7' 30'' E. This is a high bluff point, rendered con- 
 spicuous by a marble cross erected on the summit in I486, by Bartholomew 
 Diaz, a Portuguese navigator. This monument of his successful enterpize 
 along the coast of Africa is still standing, after having braved the storms 
 and heats of three centuries and a half. About four miles east of this 
 cross is Angra point, wliich has a small rocky reef, lying N. by E. half a 
 mile from shore, between wliich and the point there are five fathoms 
 water. But I should advise strangers to pass to the north of this reef, 
 giving it a berth of half a mile. After passing the reef you will open a 
 lagoon running in to the southward, between 4 and 5 miles, the entrance to 
 which is one mile and a half wide ; a clear passage, with 7 fathoms in the 
 middle of it, becoming gradually more shallow as you approach the head 
 of the lagoon on either shore. After advancing about three miles up 
 this lagoon, you will find 4 fathoms water, muddy bottom, and here is the 
 best anchorage under the western shore, about a quarter of a mile from 
 the beach. Page 174. 
 
 " Two miles E. by N. from Angra Point, and due east of the reef just 
 mentioned, are two small islands, about one mile from the mainland, lying 
 parallel to the shore, which runs here nearly north and south. Neither of 
 these islands exceed a mile in length ; but the southern one shelters good 
 anchorage in 5 fathoms, clay bottom. The best situation to anchor in on 
 the cast side of the south island is near its centre, about two cables' lengths 
 from its shore, leaving a single rock that lies level with the surface of tho 
 water, and nearly mid-channel, about half a mile to the north of this pas-
 
 16 
 
 sage. This harbour may be entered and left with perfect safety, either 
 from the north or south end of the island; but I can recommend the 
 southern passage as being the most easy, and entirely free from dangers, 20 
 fathoms from either shore. The anchorage under the northern island is 
 unsafe, there being several sunken rocks between it and the mainland, 
 which do not always show themselves. 
 
 " FRESH WATER. It is reported, and so marked on maps and charts, 
 that this region is entirely destitute of fresh water ; and that none is to be 
 found between the 16th and 31st degrees of south latitude. This idea is 
 founded in error ; for I have found many places, while travelling along near 
 the sea-shore on this coast, where fresh water may be had in any quantity 
 by digging very shallow wells. To the north of Angra Pequena, about 
 10 miles, there are many fine springs of excellent fresh water, about one 
 mile from the sea coast, where any quantity of the pure limpid element 
 can be obtained for a dozen ships at a time. 
 
 " I can also refute another erroneous statement respecting this coast. It 
 is said there is a dangerous shoal lying between three and four leagues to 
 the west of Angra Pequena, in lat. 26 35' S. But I can assert, with the 
 greatest degree of confidence, that there is but one shoal on any part of this 
 coast, south of Spencer's Bay, that lies more than 4 miles from the mainland ; 
 and this one lies N. N. "W. from Angra Pequena, or Santa Cruz, about 
 15 miles. 
 
 " October 2nd. On Thursday we got under-weigh, and steered to the 
 south, to examine a few rocks which lie about one mile off shore from the 
 mainland, and nearly half-way between Possession Island and Angra 
 Pequena, or Santa Cruz. These rocks are small, but evidently of volcanic 
 origin, and have fine anchorage between them and the mainland, in 5 
 fathoms water, sandy bottom, sheltered from all winds. In going into the 
 anchorage, you pass the north point of the ledge, leaving the rocks on 
 your right hand, half a cable's length distant, and then haul immediately 
 round to the south, and anchor abreast of the middle of the ledge, about 
 mid-channel. 
 
 ICHABOE ISLAND. This island, which sometime since obtained so much 
 notoriety for its guano, lies in lat. 26 19' S., long. 14- 51' E. It is scarcely 
 a mile in circumference, and lies about 24 miles north from Angra Pe- 
 quena, being distant from the shore not more than a mile and a half. The 
 landing place is on the north-east part of the island ; but after heavy 
 gales, with much swell outside, there is frequently such a surf for about 
 twenty yards from the shore, as to make it difficult, and even dangerous 
 for a boat to land. 
 
 A point of land from the continent extends 3 or 4 miles into the sea, to 
 the south of the island ; and from the extremity of this point a reef 
 puts off in a north-west direction, until it nearly meets a reef that pro- 
 jects from the west side of the island. Another reef puts off from the north- 
 east point of the island ; consequently a bay is formed, in which a ship 
 might lie all the year round, in perfect safety and smooth water. 
 
 Captain Morrell says, " In coming to this anchorage care should always 
 be taken to pass round the north (?) end of the island, giving its 
 north-east point a berth of half a mile, which will avoid all dangers. In 
 working into this harbour the shore on the main may be approached 
 within two cables' length. 
 
 " This is a fine place for making captive the great leviathan of the 
 ocean, the right whale, great numbers of which strike on this part of the 
 coast about the middle of June. They are in the habit of playing about 
 the reefs of the island, and that which runs from the continental point
 
 17 
 
 before mentioned; and as the south wind prevails, there is no difficulty 
 in getting the dead whale alongside the ship. Scale- fish may be caught 
 at the anchorage with hook and line; or at the bay with a seine, in 
 great quantities. An abundance of craw-fish may also be caught with a 
 hoop-net all around the island, within 50 fathoms of the shore. 
 
 " SPENCER'S BAY. On Wednesday, the 22nd of October, we 
 anchored on the east side of Mercury Island, in 4 fathoms water, about 
 two cables' length from the island, which is situated in lat. 25 42' S., long. 
 14 58' E. It is one mile in circumference, of an oblong shape, lying 
 north and south, and is three quarters of a mile north from the south-west 
 point of Spencer's Bay, and lg mile west from the north-east point of the 
 same bay. Both passages are easy, and free from dangers ; and the best 
 anchorage is on the east side of the island, about 150 fathoms from its 
 shores, in 5 fathoms water, sand and clay bottom. I would not advise 
 ships to anchor on the south side of the bay, as a heavy westerly swell 
 heaves into it on the full and change of the moon ; but let them anchor 
 close under the island, and they will lie perfectly safe in smooth water." 
 
 The south point of Spencer's Bay presents several high peaked rocks, 
 nearly 600 feet perpendicular, at the water's edge. Whales frequent this 
 bay in considerable numbers, in the months of July and August. The 
 shores and surface of Mercury island present many specimens of volcanic 
 productions, as do also those of the continent in this vicinity, extending 
 some distance into the country. 
 
 There is a Hottentot village, about 40 miles on an E. by S. course from 
 the head of the bay, containing about 250 inhabitants, and situated in a 
 fertile valley, watered by several springs of excellent fresh water. There 
 are also four refreshing springs between the village and the bay. 
 
 Here Captain Morrell had the misfortune to loose one of his men, while 
 engaged on the island skinning the seals they had caught. His loss was 
 caused by the sudden rising of the rollers, so frequent on this part of the 
 coast. Page 174. 
 
 Captain Livingston says that there is an excellent bay, not laid down in 
 any chart, lying to the north of Spencer Bay. It was discovered by the 
 Gallovidia schooner, R. Rae, master, who states its latitude (rather doubt- 
 fully ascertained by stars) to be 26 08' S. The bay affords shelter from 
 north-east to south-west, with good holding ground on blue mud and sand. 
 It is about 2^ miles wide and 3 deep, and in honour of the discoverer may 
 be appropriately named Rae's Bay. 
 
 HOLLAM, OB BIRD ISLAND. This little island, which is not more than 
 the fourth of a mile in circumference, is in lat. 24 37' 24" S., long. 14 
 27' 10" E., lying about three miles from the mainland. A reef of rocks 
 runs off from it in a south west direction, about 5 miles, on which the sea 
 often breaks with great violence. A vast number of right whales frequent 
 this reef in the months of July and August; and a ship may lie at anchor 
 on the north side of the island in 10 fathoms all the whaling season, in 
 perfect safety, if she has chain cables. This island is resorted to by seal, 
 gannets, and penguins; and here Mr. Morrell took 1400 skins of the fur- 
 seal, at one time, although the landing was bad. The passage between the 
 island and the continent is about nine miles wide, free from hidden dangers, 
 with 20 to 10 fathoms near the mainland. 
 
 ALLIGATOR ROCKS. Captain Morrell says of this reef " The Alligator 
 Rocks, as laid down in the chart, I could not find, after two days spent in 
 the search. I therefore conclude that there is no such reef, but that Bird 
 Island has been seen in a haze, and mistaken for a danger which does not 
 actually exist. The extreme haziness of the weather, peculiar to this
 
 18 
 
 coast, might very easily have deceived Captain Wood, of H. M. S. Garland, 
 for I have frequently been running along this coast, not more than one 
 league from the land, when the sandhills, which line this part of the coast, 
 have appeared to be 5 or 6 leagues from the vessel." 
 
 SANDWICH BAY. Captain Morrell says "On Sunday, the 16th of 
 November, we left Bird Island, and continued our examination of the coast 
 to the northward, with a gentle breeze from S. by W., and fair weather. 
 
 "On Tuesday, the 18th, we arrived at the mouth of what is called 
 Sandwich Harbour, said to have 3 fathoms water in its channel of entrance, 
 although we found only 1 1 feet at high water in this channel. I have no 
 doubt there was a time, some years back, when its depth was full three 
 fathoms, and that it has been filled up by drifts of sand, the movements of 
 which along this coast forcibly reminded me of the snow-drifts of my native 
 country, every fresh southerly wind forming new sand-hills, exactly as 
 new snow-banks are formed at home, by a fine clear North-wester. 
 
 " This lagoon runs to the southward, about two leagues, with 7, 5, 3, and 
 2 fathoms, nearly all over it. It is formed on the east by a high white bluff 
 sand hill, and on the west by a low sandy peninsular nearly level with the sea, 
 with shoal water on the seaboard side for more than a mile to seaward. 
 The entrance of the lagoon is very narrow, being not more than a quarter 
 of a mile wide, and formed by two low sandy points, situated in lat. 23 
 35' S., long. 14 28' E. Variation per azimuth in 1828, 23 15' westerly. 
 
 " Perhaps there is not a finer place on the whole coast than this for 
 taking fish with the seines. Many different kinds of fish resort to this 
 lagoon, one of which bears a strong resemblance to our " streaked bass," and 
 is as fat and delicate flavoured fish as our salmon. There are many other 
 sorts equally good, but of a smaller size. Many cargoes of fish might be 
 taken from this lagoon in a short time, and they would sell for a good price 
 at St. Helena, Cape of Good Hood, Isle of France, or the Isle of Bourbon. 
 Green turtle also visit the sandy beaches for the usual purposes." 
 
 WALWICH BAY. Captain Morell thus describes it. " On Saturday, the 
 22nd, we arrived at Walwich Bay, the west point of which is very low. 
 The entrance to the bay is one league broad, running to the south two 
 leagues ; one league and a half of which is navigable, and the depth of water 
 in going in is from 12 to 3 fathoms, mud and clay bottom, near the head of 
 the bay. 
 
 " The east side of this bay is formed by moderately elevated sandhills, 
 near the sea shore, and the west side is formed by a very low sandy penin- 
 sula, not more than 15 feet above the level of the sea at any place. The 
 isthmus is very narrow, it being not more than 20 rods from the head of 
 the bay to the sea shore. The peninsula, however, is from one to three 
 miles in width. In entering this bay, it is necessary to give the west point 
 a good berth, of nearly half a mile on account of a sand-bank that runs off 
 from it, in a N.N.E. direction about a quarter of a mile, on which there are 
 only 6 feet at low tide. After doubling this point, in advancing up the bay, 
 it is proper to give the western shore a berth of one-fourth of a mile ; taking 
 care not to approach it at any nearer, as the water becomes shallow very 
 suddenly, from five fathoms to two, and even to four feet, at low water. 
 This is a mud bank, which stretches all along the western and southern shore 
 of this bay ; but the eastern shore is bold, one cable's length from the beach, 
 nearly to the head of the bay. The water is entirely smooth all over the 
 bay, and consequently it is a safe as well as a spacious harbour at any 
 season of the year. " Page 174. 
 
 SIMONS BAY CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. A light vessel has lately 
 been moored in 7^ fathoms, off the Roman Rocks, in this bay. It is
 
 19 
 
 painted red, and carries a revolving light at an elevation of 37 feet 
 above the level of the sea. During the day time a red flag (or perhaps a 
 ball,) is shown when vessels are observed. The following are the bearings 
 the Roman Rocks, South a cable's length ; the Whittle Rock S.S.E. 7 
 miles ; Seal Island E. S. Gf miles ; Millar Point S. f W. 3f miles. 
 
 Mr. J. Brown, the master of H. M. S. Winchester, has drawn up the 
 following sailing directions : 
 
 " When a vessel has rounded the Cape of Good Hope from the westward, 
 the above mentioned light will open clear of Miller Point on the bearing of 
 N. by E. ; and, if it be intended to work up False Bay, between the 
 Whittle Rock and the western shore, the light should not be brought to 
 the westward of N. by W. W., until she is well up with the high land 
 about Miller Point, and consequently to the northward of the Whittle ; nor 
 should the light be brought at any time to bear to the eastward of north, 
 on account of the rocks off the western shore. 
 
 " If the vessel is to work up to the eastward of the Whittle, the light 
 should not be brought to the north of N. N. W. ^ W., in order to avoid 
 that rock ; nor to the westward of N. W. by W. ^ W., so as to give a 
 sufficient berth to Seal Island and the shoal near it. But by whichever of 
 those channels a ship approaches, short tacks should be made until certain 
 ot being within 5 miles of the light. 
 
 " With a leading wind the light may be brought to bear N. by W., 
 which will clear the Whittle ; and that course should be continued till 
 within a mile of the light. The light vessel must then be well opened on 
 the port bow, so as to round her at not less than half a mile distance. 
 When the light has been brought to bear S. S. W., steer in west for the 
 anchorage, and bring up in 14 to 10 fathoms, according to the weather. 
 
 " When coming from the eastward round Cape Hanglip, it will be 
 observed that the Whittle lies nearly in a direct line between the Cape 
 and the light ; and therefore, if the wind be fair, bring the light to bear 
 N. W. by N., and steer for it. 
 
 " These instructions are intended for seamen not acquainted with Simons' 
 Bay ; those who know the passage between the Roman Rocks and Noah's 
 Ark, will probably adopt it in the day time, but from the position of the 
 Phoenix Rock, and the narrowness of the passage, all ships at night should 
 pass to the eastward of the light vessel, and haul round her to the north- 
 ward." Page 182. 
 
 COAST OF BRAZIL. 
 
 CIARA. On Point Macoripe, eastern side of the entrance to the bay, 
 in lat. 3 41' 10" S., and long. 38 35' 9' * W., has lately been established 
 a fixed light, 37 feet above the sea, visible 10 miles. Page 233. 
 
 MOUNT ITACOLUMI. On the cliff of Mount Itacolumi is erected 
 a light house. It is a quadrangular building, the sides of which face the 
 cardinal points. The light, shown at an elevation of 147 feet from high- 
 water mark, revolves, shewing a light of two colours, one being of the 
 natural appearance, the other of a red colour, being alternately visible and 
 invisible for about two miles in each revolution. Care should be taken not 
 to mistake this light for the one on Isle St. Anna. Page 241. 
 
 * It should be remarked that the charts rive the longitude of Point Macoripe, as 38 
 30' W.
 
 20 
 
 BANK OFF CAPE SAN THOME. The following extract of a 
 letter from Captain Jervis, of H. M. S. Pilot, dated Dec. 13th, 1843, is 
 taken from the Nautical Magazine, 1844. Page 243. 
 
 " On December 6th, a. m., running for Rio, found the water very much 
 discoloured, sounded in 35 fathoms, sand, at lOh. sounded in 25 fathoms; 
 at noon lat. 21 44' S., long. 39 35' W., then 16^, shoaled the water, 
 gradually, until we had in the starboard chains 15 fathoms; in the port 
 chains barely 9 fathoms. This continued until 4h. p. m., and then shoaled 
 to 12| fathoms, going three knots, breeze increasing, then deepened to 16 
 and 17, and shoaled again to 12|. At 4h. no bottom with 20 fathoms, at 
 5h. leadsmen in. Lead hove every half hour till midnight. Cape Frio 
 bearing at noon S. W. by W. W. 140'; C. San Thome W. | S. 80'; 
 Esperitu Santo N. N. W. W., 109. Page 275. 
 
 RIO JANEIRO. SHOAL AT ENTRANCE. From the Nautical Maga- 
 zine, 1846. Page 321. 
 
 " The ship in which I was passed directly over a shoal, the position of 
 which, as I do not see it marked on any chart I have examined, I beg 
 here to make known. 
 
 " Bearing of Sugar Loaf N. 7 E. true, distance about 24 miles, extent 
 about 200 yards in diameter. Bottom, sand and rock. There were no 
 soundings taken, but I should think there cannot be less than 8 fathoms 
 over it. J. C. Haile" Page 279. 
 
 " SANTOS. On Moela Island, near Santos, is said to be a fixed light 
 shewn 105 feet above the level of the sea, and visible about 12 miles. 
 Page 291. 
 
 RIO GRANDE. The tower, or lighthouse, is in lat. 33 8' S., long. 
 52 10' W. When you make the tower, endeavour to get it to bear north 
 5 or 6 miles, then steer direct for it, but be particular to observe if a red 
 flag be hoisted on the tower ; if so, it signifies that you must approach 
 and continue to advance (as long as the flag is up,) direct for the tower, 
 until you see a boat, which will be at anchor on the bar, in which a 
 pilot will be situated to show flags, which represent the depth of water 
 on the bar as follows : 
 
 A blue flag over a red flag, 10 ft. 
 
 A red flag over a blue flag, 10| ft. 
 
 A blue pendant over a white flag, 10 ft. 10^ in. 
 
 A white flag over a blue pendant, 11 ft. 3 in. 
 
 A blue pendant over a blue flag, 11 ft. 7f in. 
 
 A blue flag over a blue pendant, 12 ft. 
 
 A blue pendant over a red flag, 12 ft. 4| in. 
 
 A red flag over a blue pendant, 12 ft. 9 in. 
 
 Steer for the boat, guiding yourself by a staff with a flag, which is inclined 
 by the man in the boat as follows : If the staff is held upright, it 
 denotes you are steering correctly. If the staff be inclined to be port or 
 starboard, you may luff or keep off accordingly. If the flag on the tower 
 is hauled down you must not approach. From the tower they also throw 
 out laurel flags, particularly in rough weather, to guide vessels keeping 
 off, or luffing, according as the flags are shown to north or south. 
 
 There is good anchorage 6 miles from the tower, which bears N. 6 miles 
 distance ; but as a general rule it is best to avoid anchoring. At night, 
 keep in 10 fathoms water, or over, and be very careful to sound frequently 
 when your head is to shore. The soundings diminish reguarly to 5 fathoms, 
 which is close to the breakers. On the beach to the south of the bar the 
 water decreases gradually, but to the northward, it shelves more suddenly. 
 Pilotage inwards or outwards over the bar, 280 rees per ton. Up to the
 
 21 
 
 harbour, 816. Anchorage, 50 rees per day, pel Brazilian ton. Consuls' 
 fees, 87, 25. Shipping Gazette, 1845. Page 298. 
 - EIO DE LA PLATA. SHOAL AT ENTRANCE. Extracted from the 
 Nautical Magazine, 1846. Page 320. 
 
 " I beg leave to inform you that the Nautilus Transport, on her passage 
 to Monte Video, struck on a sunken rock in the river de la Plata, between 
 the Isle of Flores and the Carretas reef ; the lighthouse on the S. W. end of 
 Flores bore E. by S. ^ S., the high land about Bold Point W. by S. | S. The 
 ship passed over, having struck four or five times. Immediately the 
 anchor was let go, and the boat sent away, and found 17 feet water on it, 
 and 5 1 and 6 fathoms close to it. I believe that the rock is laid down in 
 the Spanish charts, and that H. M. S. Nereid struck on it many years ago. 
 W. C. Saunders, Agent for Transports. Page 303. 
 
 ORTIZ BANK. Off the S. E. part of the Ortiz Bank is now a 
 floating light. Page 317. 
 
 COLONIA. Here there is reported to be a light, but we have not the 
 particulars. Page 318. 
 
 STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 
 
 The following recommendation to ships to use this passage lately appeared 
 in the Shipping and Mercantile Gazette. " On Monday, Nov. 
 16th, 1846, at 8 p. m., we made the Evangelists bearing N. N. E. 5 
 miles, wind W., and tolerably clear ; at midnight, Cape Pillar bore S. S. 
 W., 3. miles, and by keeping the starboard shore on board strangers will 
 find no difficulty in finding Long Reach. On Tuesday, the 17th, at noon, 
 we entered Crooked Reach; at 10 p. m. were off Port Famine, which is 
 a safe anchoring ground, and where there is a Chillian settlement, at which 
 refreshments can easily be procured. On Wednesday, 18th, at 4. 30 p. m. 
 came to anchor in Gregory's Bay, in 15 fathoms good holding ground. 
 On Thursday, 19th, at 3. 30 a. m., got under- weigh; at 7. 30 a. m., 
 entered the first narrows, with a strong flood tide against us, 
 which we found no difficulty in stemming; at 2 p. m. we were 
 clear of the Straits ; at 6 p. m. we rounded Dungeness. After the expe- 
 rience of four voyages round Cape Horn, in September 1843, August, 
 1844, August, 1845, and the present voyage, I must say that the wear 
 and tear, owing to the bad weather we encountered, with the heavy 
 cross sea, so prevalent between the west entrance to the Straits and Cape 
 Horn, contrasted with the passage through the Straits from the west coast, 
 i?, in my opinion, not to be compared ; and had I another passage to make 
 at some season of the year, or in the winter season, with moon- 
 light, I would take the Straits for my passage ; the risk of life and 
 property, and the wear and tear in the one, is not bo compared with the 
 other. Page 322. 
 
 (Signed) JOHN LoNOMUin, Master, 
 36, Upper Pitt-street, Liverpool, February 16tb, 1847.
 
 THE 
 
 ATLANTIC NAVIGATOR. 
 
 NOTE : THE BEARINGS AND COURSES ARE THOSE BY COMPASS, UNLESS 
 EXPRESSED TO THE CONTRARY: BUT THOSE GIVEN THUS (E. N. E.) 
 SIGNIFY THE TRUE ; AND THE GIVEN DIRECTION OP WIND, TIDE, AND 
 CURRENT IS ALWAYS TO BE CONSIDERED AS THE TRUE. THE DEPTHS 
 ARE THOSE AT LOW WATER, SPRING TIDES ; AND THE MILES, GEOGRAPHIC, 
 SIXTY TO A DEGREE. 
 
 In our Sailing Directions for the English Channel, the Coasts of England 
 and France have been minutely described, and consequently to repeat the 
 description would not be consistent with the limits of the present work. 
 But as it is possible that a ship may be driven, by stress of weather, into 
 the BAY OF BISCAY, a few remarks on its harbours may not be misplaced. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 FRANCE, SPAIN, AND PORTUGAL 
 
 ISLAND OF USHANT is about 4 miles in length from east to west, 
 and two miles in breadth. It is a steep craggy island, with a har- 
 bour on its S. W. side, difficult of access. On the N. E. part of the island 
 is a light-house, -exhibiting an excellent fixed light, elevated 265 feet above 
 the level of the sea, and which may be seen in clear weather at the distance 
 of 7 leagues. On the north side of the island is BENINON, a small bay 
 sheltered by an islet named QUELER, where small vessels may lie sheltered 
 during all winds but those from the northward. At the distance of 4| 
 miles N. W. W. from the light-house, and about 3^ miles N. ^ E. from 
 the west point of the island is the Basse Calais, a bed of sunken rocks, 
 which is dangerous ; and, at the distance of a mile from the S. W. point, 
 lies the Jument rock, which is alternately covered and uncovered with 
 every tide. 
 
 PASSAGE DU FOUR. To the westward of Ushant is the Passage 
 du Four, through which the French coasters pass to Brest, &c. ; and to the 
 southward of the island is the Chenel de Frotueur. The latter is little 
 more than a mile in breadth, and the tide runs through it very rapidly, 
 generally exceeding the rate of four knots. S. S. E. of the Chenel de 
 Frotueur there is a range of islands, in eight groups, surrounded with shoals 
 and rocks, and extending to the distance of 4- leagues. Of these dangers 
 the westernmost are Pierre Verte, a bank of rocks that appear at low 
 water, spring tides, and Le Boufouloe, or the Buffalo; close to the latter 
 are 8 fathoms, hence to the Black rocks and Chimneys, upon the eastern- 
 most part of the range, the course and distance will be S. S. E. f E. nearly 
 
 B
 
 3 miles; depths from 12 to 29 fathoms. The Pierre Verte, or Green Stone, 
 
 4 
 
 S. S. E., 10^ miles from the same point. 
 
 BREST. From the Chimneys, or southernmost Black rocks, to St. 
 Matthew's point, the course and distance are nearly E., 5 miles. From this 
 point to the entrance of Brest harbour the course and distance are nearly 
 E. N. E., 3 leagues ; but as there are several dangers off the coast, the 
 land-marks, &c. must be attended to. On St. Matthew's point is a light- 
 tower, which exhibits a revolving light ; the eclipses succeed each other 
 every 100 seconds; its height above the sea is 167 feet, and it maybe seen 
 at 6 leagues off. Off the rocks lying in the vicinity of the more dangerous 
 ones, being, at a distance from the land, are the Vaudree, Gouemont, and 
 Parquette ; the latter, which is the inner one, becomes uncovered at half- 
 ebb, and generally has breakers upon it when covered ; it lies 4 miles S. f "W. 
 from St. Matthew's point. To the eastward of this rock the ground is foul, 
 quite up to the Toulinguet rocks, which lie off the west point of Camaret, 
 and render that shore dangerous. The Gouemont lies If miles to the west- 
 ward of the Parquette; this shoal has only 10 or 11 feet over it at low 
 water. The Vaudree lies 3 cables' length to the west of the Gouemont 
 and has 14 or 15 feet over it. On the north side of the channel to Brest, 
 the dangers are the Coq, the Buzee, &c. The former is a sunken rock, 
 lying at the distance of three-quarters of a mile from shore, about 2 miles 
 to the south-eastward of St. Matthew's point, with the south end of the 
 isle of Beniguet on with that point. The Buzee lies about one mile and a 
 quarter E. S. E. from the Coq, and is very dangerous to large ships. 
 
 IN SAILING FOR BREST, you will pass to the southward of the Coq, by 
 steering about S. E. from St. Matthew's point, taking care to keep the 
 north end of the isle of Beniguet open with it, until the mill upon the land 
 to the northward bears N. by W. and the trees N., when you will have 
 passed the rock. The Buzee may be passed on either side ; but the best 
 way is to run to the northward of it, and along shore ; at the distance of 
 two cables' length from the latter, and thus sailing S. E. by E. f E. across 
 the entrance of the bay of Bertheaume. In approaching the Gullet, be 
 careful to avoid the Fillettes, Mingan, and other rocks, which lie in mid- 
 channel off the peninsula of Camaret ; and carefully avoid also the Bagine, 
 or Kergutio rocks, lying near the entrance of Brestwater, at about two 
 cables' length from the north shore. Vessels may pass on either side of 
 them, but the common passage is to the northward. When the town of 
 Brest appears open of Perzie point, you may steer for it, and anchor in 8 or 
 9 fathoms, or more to the southward, in from 15 to 10 fathoms. In Ber- 
 theaume bay, about 4 miles to the eastward of St. Matthew's point, there 
 is good anchorage with off shore winds, in from 8 to 1 1 fathoms ; this is 
 called the outer anchorage. 
 
 DOVARNENEZ BAY lies to the southward of Brest harbour. Its 
 entrance is so wide, and its bottom is so clear and regular that no leading 
 mark is required, provided that a sufficient berth be given to several rocks 
 which lie on the north side. The course and distance from the S. W. end 
 of Ushant to this bay are S. S. E. E., 10 leagues. There is nothing in 
 the way that can take a ship up, only observing to avoid the Basse Vielle, 
 off the Bee de Chevre, on the north side of the entrance. This rock lies 
 about one-third over from the point, and appears just above water at 
 two-thirds ebb. It is steep-to, having from 17 to 12 fathoms close to it. 
 The marks for it are, a mill to the westward of St. Laurence's church on 
 with the middle of a reef of dry rocks which lie off the point, or Bee de 
 Chevre, bearing E. by N. ^ N. ; and a village on with the N. W. cliff of
 
 the same point, bearing N. E. by E. Its bearing and distance from the 
 point are W. | S., l mile. A clump of trees, with a little chapel in the 
 midst, stand on the north side to the eastward of Point Chevre, having a 
 windmill to the westward, and two to the eastward. With the windmill, 
 next to the eastward of these trees, just open of Chevre point, you will have 
 passed the Basse Vielle, and may steer for what part of the bay you please. 
 The best ground is however considered to be that towards the north side, 
 being clear sand, with a depth of from 9 to 1 5 fathoms. 
 
 THE ISLE OF SAINTS lies 4| miles W. N. W. of Bee du Raz, or 
 Race Bill, having a channel between of 15 to 18 fathoms, sandy bottom; 
 the latter, however, must be given a good berth, as several high rocks lie to 
 the W. N. W. of it ; the highest of these is called the Vielle, being the 
 farthest from the land, and having a rock under water, called La 
 Platta, lying half a cable's length from it. The isle of Saints has a flat 
 appearance ; two ledges of rocks lie to the S. E. of it, that nearest the 
 island named Le Pont du Chat, and the other Cornet ; a ridge of rocks like- 
 wise stretches from the west side of the island, full 3 leagues into the sea, 
 called the Saint's Bridge ; the greatest number of these are under water. 
 The Stevenot is a high rock, lying 2^ miles E. N. E. ^ E. from the isle of 
 Saints, and about the same distance from the Bee du Raz ; it is surrounded 
 by several rocks, under water, and great caution is required to avoid them. 
 
 PORT CASBESTRANS is about two leagues S. E. from the Raz ; the en- 
 trance to the road is between two rocks, which dry at low water ; but as 
 it is a by-place, vessels but rarely anchor here. 
 
 HODIERNE is a tide port, and must be entered at high water ; the 
 rocky bank of La Gamette lies before the port, about a mile distant from 
 the shore, at either side of which vessels may safely pass, by keeping near 
 the land. Hodierne is well sheltered when within ; the town lies on the 
 western side, and a high church stands on the east side of the port. 
 
 THE PENMARK ROCKS form the extensive group of dangers that 
 surround Penmark point, and the coast to the eastward ; on the point is a 
 provisional light, upon the tower of the church of St. Pierre, which revolves, 
 and is eclipsed every half minute. It height is 42 feet above the sea, and 
 it may be discerned at 4 leagues off. The dangers about the point extend 
 outward to the distance of half a league. 
 
 QUIMPER. To the westward of Quimper river, is the river du 
 Pont L'Abbe, accessible only at high water, and barred with banks that 
 leave a small channel only. Hence, to the river Quimper, the coast is 
 bordered with rocks, which extend to the distance of two cables' length 
 into the sea. The mouth of Quimper river is of sufficient breadth, but a 
 sunken rock lies before it, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile, which 
 should be approached with great caution. The best passage is on the 
 western side. Between Quimper river and Conquerneau are many rocks 
 along shore, at various distances ; of these, several lie at the entrance of the 
 harbour, leaving only a small channel between them ; but there is anchor- 
 age here in 4 and 5 fathoms. High water, on the full and change, at 4 
 o'clock. 
 
 THE GLENAN ISLANDS lie about 9 miles without Conquerneau, 
 they are encumbered with several rocks, above and under water; the 
 north side, however, is clear, as you may sail near the largest of the 
 group called Glenan, and anchor in 9 and 10 fathoms : but strangers should 
 not attempt the passage, as many sunken rocks lie interspersed. On the 
 1st of October, 1838, an t intermitting light was exhibited on a tower recently 
 erected at the north point of the isle of Penfret, one of the Glenan islands. 
 The light is 72 feet above the ground, and 118 feet above the level of high
 
 water, at equinoctial spring tides ; it will be seen, in clear weather, at the 
 distance of 5 leagues. Bright flashes regularly succeed each other every 
 four minutes, and last about 8 or 10 seconds. The faint light, which will 
 be perceptible during the intervals, will be preceded and followed by short 
 eclipses. There is but little apparent difference between this new light 
 and that near Noirmoustier island, on the Pilier, in lat. 47 2' 26" N., and 
 long 2 21' 32" W. ; but there will be no danger of mistaking the one for 
 the other, as it is not probable that any vessel from seaward should arrive 
 in sight of Penfret light, without having previously seen either the light of 
 Belle isle or that of Penmark. About one league, north from the Glenans, 
 are the Moutons, or Sheep islands ; between are the Les Porceaux rocks, 
 surrounded by several others. Southward of the Glcnan islands, is the 
 Jument rock, over which the sea breaks ; this ought to be given a good 
 berth. 
 
 PORT LOUIS is an excellent harbour, distant 24 miles from Conquer - 
 neau ; but the entrance is rendered difficult of access, by numerous rocks. 
 The mark for entering is, the edge of the citadel in a line with the little 
 convent of St. Catherine, and anchor within the citadel in 5 or 6 fathoms. 
 The isle of GROUAIS is nearly 4 miles long, lying S. W. by W. of the 
 entrance of Port Louis. Between the island and the main there is a bank 
 of 2 fathoms, at low water, lying nearer the latter ; vessels may anchor 
 between this bank and the island in 10 to 15 fathoms, good ground. A 
 reef of rocks, called the Bouts des Chats, or Cats' End, lies off the S. E. 
 end of the island, which must be avoided. 
 
 L'ORIENT stands about 2 miles above Port Louis, at the bottom of the 
 bay formed by the rivers Platscorf and Blavet. Sailing from Grouais 
 island, or the offing, to pass westward of the Trayes or Sows and the 
 Errants, which is the great channel, keep Larmer tower E. N. E. till one 
 of the mills standing eastward of Port Louis comes hid of the southern 
 part of the town walls, and the other mill comes well open ; then sail in 
 mid- channel between the Saisies of Larmer and the Sows; this mark is to 
 be kept on until the high land of Pennemane is in one with the west 
 corner of the citadel of Port Louis, then steer in that direction until the 
 west point of St. Michael's comes on with a white mark, lying to the 
 westward of the storehouses of L'Orient harbour ; this takes you between 
 the Mare and the foot of the citadel. The Mare is covered at three- 
 quarters' flood, and has a beacon on it. The westernmost of the Sows has 
 also a beacon ; these rocks are visible at spring-ebbs, and covered at half- 
 tide. The Saisies of Larmer are covered at three-quarters' flood ; but the 
 Errants are always visible. 
 
 When past the Mare you may either sail to the eastward or westward 
 of St. Michael's island. Proceed through the western passage, until 
 Queroman's house is in one with the miller's white house by the mill near 
 shore, leaving on the starboard a rock of 12 feet, and on the larboard 
 another called the Hog, covered at half tide, and marked by a beacon. 
 You will thus pass between the Turk and the Querneval bank ; the 
 former has a buoy at its southern extremity, and has only 2 feet water on 
 it. Sail on in the above direction, until you have the white mark of the 
 storehouse in one with a single house on the beach till athwart of St. 
 Michael's, when you may proceed for the road of Pennemane, leaving the 
 half-tide rock, named Pengarne, on which is a beacon, on the starboard side. 
 The mark for the eastern passage is, the corner wall of St. Catherine's 
 garden in one with a white house standing in the middle of Nezenel town ; 
 this takes you athwart of the south end of St. Catherine's, and should be 
 kept on, until the little wood of Querbel, near Port Louis, is seen through
 
 the causeway, or stone bridge, which joins St. Catherine's to the main. 
 You will thus pass the Pengarne, which is to be left on the starboard, and, 
 when you are a ship's length within it, proceed for the road. It is, however, 
 to be observed, that vessels drawing more than 21 feet cannot make 
 Pennemane road, unless at high water, spring tides; in that case you must 
 anchor at Port Louis. 
 
 In passing the Errants, by mid-channel, it will be necessary to bring 
 L'Orient tower in one with the western bastion of Port Louis citadel, at as 
 great a distance as possible, by which you will leave the Errants on the 
 larboard, and the Bastrene rock, with its buoy, on the starboard side ; you 
 will also pass the Three Stones, having another buoy ; and, when you have 
 proceeded so far as to bring the Fountain, on the beach of Gavre, in one 
 with the single tree N. E. of the village, keep Larmer windmill on with 
 two houses nearest the Point of Larmer ; you will then enter the great 
 channel, at the point from whence the high land of Pennemane may be 
 seen in one with the western corner of Port Louis citadel, and may 
 proceed as already directed. 
 
 BELLE ISLE. The Birvideaux bank lies between Grouais and Belle 
 isle ; a beacon was placed on this bank in 4 fathoms, with the S. E. point 
 of Grouais bearing N. by W. and the N. "W. point of the same island N. N. 
 W. ^ W. BELLE ISLE is about 3 leagues in length, it is high and steep- 
 to ; on the south side are numerous rocks, above and under water, lying 
 near the shore. The COLTS are rocks of a similar description, extending 
 from the N. W. point ; that furthest from the shore is the highest and 
 largest of the group. The town and harbour of Palais lies on the north 
 side of the island, and is the most frequented, although Sauzon, which lies 
 a little above it, is a much better harbour ; other good roads may be found, 
 but principally on the north side. 
 
 A LIGHT-HOUSE has recently been erected on the S. W. part of Belle 
 isle ; it exhibits a revolving light, which is eclipsed every minute during 
 the night. Its height above the level of high water, at equinoctial spring 
 tides, is 276 feet, and may be seen at the distance of 8 leagues. That this 
 light may not be mistaken for that on the Plateau du Four, it is to be 
 remarked: 1. That the light of Belle isle is much more brilliant than that 
 of the Four. 2. That it presents, between the flashes, a fixed light, which 
 may be seen in ordinary weather, at a distance of more than 3 leagues, 
 at which distance the eclipses of the Plateau du Four will be total. 3. That 
 the elevation of the light of Belle isle exceeds by 220 feet that of the 
 Plateau ; and further, that on approaching the former, the high land of the 
 island may be distinguished at night. Again, it is not to be supposed that 
 a vessel standing in from sea can make the light of the Plateau du Four 
 without having seen either that of the isle d' Yeu, or of the Pilier, or the 
 one on Belle isle. 
 
 PALAIS, IN BELLE ISLE. HARBOUR LIGHT, on the head of the great 
 Mole, and on the left of the entrance of the port, latitude 47 20' 53", N. 
 and longitude 3 9' 7" W., elevated 16 feet above the level of high water, 
 and seen, in clear weather, at the distance of 3 miles. 
 
 QUIBERON. From Port Louis to Quiberon the distance is about 17 
 miles. The coast is encumbered with many rocks, partly under water ; 
 and off Quiberon are several that stretch as far as the isle of Houat, which 
 lies about 6 miles to the southward, and is about 3 miles in extent. In the 
 channel stands the high rock called La Teignoure, which serves for a mark 
 to pass between Houat and Hedic ; but this passage is not to be recom- 
 mended, as it is both narrow and dangerous. The N. and S. E. sides of 
 Houat have several rocks near them, and the channel between it and
 
 Quiberon is small. HEDIC (having a fixed light) is rather of a circular 
 form, surrounded by rocks, distant about 4^ miles from Houat. The 
 CARDINALS lie off the S. E. part, distant nearly a mile, and some of them 
 are always visible ; these must be passed about a mile to the eastward, in 
 sailing for Auray, Vannes, Vilaine, or the Crosic : the tides here set very 
 strong. The course from the east end of the Cardinals, for the Rivers 
 Auray, or Vannes, is N. E. 4| leagues, (the entrance to both being the 
 same,) on the west of which is a rocky bank, with the small islands of 
 Mehan, that extend 3 miles from the land, in a southerly direction : having 
 got within these islands, which are left on the larboard, proceed towards the 
 eastern shore, in 7 and 8 fathoms, and when within the east point you will 
 perceive the two rivers ; these have always a rapid current, and should not 
 be attempted without a pilot. Vessels may anchor within or without the 
 entrance to these rivers ; taking care to avoid the Bass St. Gildas, a bank 
 on the eastern shore, about a league S. E. of Mehan isles, and opposite the 
 high steeple of St. Gildas. It lies a mile from the land, but there is no 
 channel between them. 
 
 Between Point du Grand Mont, or St. Gildas and Point Dousey, there 
 ie a rock under water. The coast, from the latter point to the river 
 Vilaine, trends E. S. E. 12 miles; and the course from the east side of the 
 Cardinals is E. N. E. 15 miles ; you will meet the Island of Dumet in the 
 way, and, sailing on its western side, you may steer anywhere, within a 
 cable's length of the land, until the river opens ; keep then in mid-channel, 
 as some rocks lie at the east side of the entrance ; and, when within these, 
 you may anchor or run aground. If you pass Dumet on the east, beware 
 of some sandy points that stretch out nearly a mile, and must have a good 
 berth given them ; this river, as well as the former ones, will require a 
 pilot, who you will readily obtain at the Cardinals. The point of Crosic, 
 which lies about 3 leagues to the southward of the entrance of Vilaine 
 river, will be known by the high pointed steeple of Guerande, and another, 
 built of stone, called the tower of Bass, &c. 
 
 NANTES. The navigation to the Loire, or river of Nantes, has been 
 materially facilitated by a new light-house, erected on the northernmost 
 dry rocks of the Four bank ; and a tower on the Turk rock, or S. E. end 
 of the La Blanche shoal. The Aiguillon light-towers, on the north side of 
 the Loire, serve as the leading mark into the river ; and when in a line 
 bear N. E. by E. The lower one, named Tour d' Aiguillon, exhibits a 
 fixed light, 111 feet above the level of the sea; and, in clear weather, may 
 be seen 5 leagues off. The upper tower, named Tour du Commerce, shews 
 a flashing light, at intervals of 3 minutes ; it is 127 feet high, and, in clear 
 weather, can be seen 5^ leagues. The light-house on the Four, stands at 
 3% miles W. N. W. from Crosic point, and about 18 miles E. S. E. E. 
 from the S. E. end of Belle isle; it exhibits a revolving light. The 
 common passage into the river Loire, is to the northward of the dry rocks, 
 on the north end of the Four bank ; and thence passing between the reefs 
 which lie off the point of Crosic ; only taking care not to approach too 
 near them. The S. E. part of Le Four will be avoided by keeping the 
 church of Crosic well open to the west of the steeple of Guerande ; and the 
 N. W. end of La Blanche will be cleared by keeping the steeple of 
 Guerande a sail's breadth to the N. W. of the tower of Batz. Either of 
 these marks may be kept on, until the new light-house, on the Four bank, 
 bears N. "W. ^ N., and this line of bearing, or a course S. E. ^ S., will 
 lead directly to the bar of the Loire, until the towers of Aiguillon appear 
 in one, which is the leading mark over the bar, as before mentioned. 
 
 To the S. E. of the Crosic the shore is rocky, and there is a reef, called
 
 the Louvre rocks, at the distance of half a mile from shore, and nearly 4 
 miles S. E. from Crosic point. Between this reef and the Three Stones, 
 on the N. W. end of La Blanche, or the Turk bank, is the passage. The 
 course, to abreast the Pierre Perce, or Pierced rock, is therefore S. E. and 
 S. E. by S. Steer so as to leave this rock at the distance of half a mile, 
 on the larboard side, and then continue a S. E. course (allowing for the 
 tide, which runs strongly,) until you bring the two light -houses of 
 Aiguillon in a line, or the high light a little open to the right of the lower 
 one ; steer in the latter direction, with the light-houses nearly in one, until you 
 come near to Leve point ; next proceed on an E. course, to pass the point 
 of La Villa Mardin, taking care not to bring a pyramid, which stands to 
 the S. W. of the lower light-house, in a line with it ; as thus you will avoid 
 the rocks which extend from the point of La Villa Mardin, and will sail 
 clear of the Morees which lie half a mile south from that point. Hence, 
 you may proceed to anchor in Mardin road, E. S. E. of St. Nazaire, in 
 from 6 to 85 fathoms. If proceeding hence to Nantes, the ship must be 
 conducted by a pilot. 
 
 On sailing out of the river, proceed westward, and pass within half a 
 mile of the fort of La Villa Mardin, taking care not to bring the pyramid 
 on with the lower or westernmost light-house. You may pass De Leve 
 point within a quarter of a mile ; and, when you have brought the light- 
 houses nearly in one, run out in that direction, between the Turk and 
 La Couronnee. The dangers in the vicinity of the Loire, are the Turk, a 
 sunken rock, with a few others to the Ni N. W. of it, which are uncovered 
 at low water ; the Turk lies 8 miles N. W. by W. from St. Gildas Point, 
 on the south side of the Loire. The Three Stones, uncovered, and now 
 distinguished by a beacon, lie at the distance of a league and a half 
 W. S. W. from Pain Chateau point. The bank, which connects the Turk 
 and Three Stones, is commonly called the Turk bank, and has but little 
 water upon it; close to its western side are 11, and to its eastern side 6 
 fathoms. La Couronnee is a dangerous sunken rock, steep-to, with 10 
 fathoms close to it. La Lambarde is a rock, even with the water at low 
 spring ebbs. 
 
 On the N. \V. side of the entrance of the Loire is the Leven, a rock 
 nearly covered at half tide, upon which a bank of sand is always visible. 
 Pierre Piercee, an islet, elevated about 30 feet above low water ; at about 
 a quarter of a mile to the S. E. of it is the Longue Folle, a sunken reef, on 
 which there are only 7 feet of water, at low spring tides. The Grand 
 Charpentice, Petit Charpentice, and La Vielle, are three rocks, of nearly 
 equal height, and even with the sea at high water of neap tides. Les 
 Morees and La Traye, or the Sow, appear to be about 8 feet high, at low 
 water, neap tides. High water, on the full and change, at 3| h. The sea 
 here does not rise gradually during the coming up of the tide ; in the first 
 hour it rises 2 feet ; the second 3 feet 6 inches ; the third 4 feet ; the 
 fourth 2 feet 6 inches ; the fifth 2 feet ; and the sixth one foot. 
 
 BOURGNEUF BAY. Point St. Gildas and Pilier islands form the 
 north and south points of this bay. On the N. W. point of Pilier, at 2| 
 miles from the N. W. point of Noirmoustier there is a light-house, from 
 which is exhibited a light, which presents the appearance of a fixed light, 
 but it is varied by a brilliant flash every 4 minutes; it is 105 feet high, 
 above the level of the sea, and may be seen at 5| leagues off. The course 
 from Belle isle to the bay of Bourgneuf is S. E. for the isle Pilier, which 
 is distant about 2 miles from that of Noirmoustier ; and when you are 3 
 or 4 miles to the northward of Pilier, steer E. by S. until the convent and 
 Noirmoustier castle come in one; this mark will carry you past the
 
 8 
 
 Monk's bank ; a S. E. course will then take you to the Monk's stone, which 
 you may pass on either side ; and when abreast of Grave, anchor in 6 
 or 7 fathoms. A pilot from hence to Bourgneuf will be necessary. 
 
 THE ISLE DIEU. A good distinguishing mark for this island is the 
 church which stands upon it, having a pointed steeple ; several rocks lie 
 off the west side of the island, called Les Cheins Perrins, that stretch 
 about two miles from the land ; and others, named Les Filles, lie towards 
 the N. W. end, somewhat nearer the shore ; the south side, however, is 
 clearer, and may be approached as near as you please. There is a small 
 harbour on the N. E. and another on the S. W. side of this isle ; but they 
 are only fit for small craft, and dry every tide. The best anchorage off 
 the island is with the west point bearing W. and the east point S. by E., 
 or bring the church to bear S. S. W., distant about 3 miles. With the 
 north point of the island, bearing W. by. S. and the S. E. point S. f E., 
 you may anchor in 9 fathoms, small stones and sand. In sailing from 
 Pilier island to the isle Dieu, you must take care to avoid the Beufs, or 
 Oxen ; these lie about S. S. E. from Pilier, and should not be approached 
 nearer than 14 fathoms, as they are steep-to, having 9 and 10 fathoms 
 close to them. 
 
 LIGHTS ON ISLE DIEU. On an elevated spot at nearly a mile from 
 the N. W. end of the isle, is a tower which exhibits a brilliant fixed 
 light, at 164 feet above the level of the sea, and which may be seen 7 
 leagues off. At the port of Breton, on the north side of the isle, there are 
 likewise, two small harbour lights, fixed ; of which the first is on the extre- 
 mity of the jetty, on the starboard side, when entering the harbour, and the 
 other is on the opposite shore. They are of imequal height, being respec- 
 tively of 22 and 49 feet, and may be seen from sea, in fine weather, at 2 or 
 3 leagues off. In order to enter the port, the lights must be kept in a line ; 
 but the entrance is so very narrow that it cannot be attempted in the night 
 without great danger, even with these new lights, unless by the aid of a 
 pilot intimately acquainted with the passage. 
 
 ST. GILLES is a tide port, fit only for small vessels. The town is 
 situated very low, but is known by an extensive wood near it. A tide 
 light indicates when vessels may take the harbour. Some dangerous rocks 
 lie about 4 miles from this place, and a league westward of the port of 
 Ollone ; they run about 2 miles into the sea, are uncovered at low water, 
 and should not be approached nearer than 20 fathoms. Ollone is also a 
 tide port ; and may be known by one high pointed steeple and two lesser 
 ones; but beside these, there is now a light-tower on the Kay of La 
 Chaume, upon the western side of the entrance ; and there is also a harbour 
 light, on the head of the great jetty, upon the eastern side. The light on 
 the jetty, in a line with that of La Chaume, gives the direction of the 
 channel into the harbour. Both lights are fixed ; that of La Chaume is 
 118 feet above the level of the sea, and may be seen 4 leagues off; but 
 that of the jetty is only 23 feet high, and therefore to be seen only 1^ or 
 2 leagues. The coast, from hence to Pertuis Breton is very low, and the 
 distance about 18 miles. The isle of Re lies on the south side, distant 
 about 8 miles. 
 
 THE ISLE DE RE'. This island is 13 miles in length, from E. S. E. 
 to W. N. W., and is generally sterile. St. Martin, the principal place, is on 
 the N. E. coast, and is protected by forts. At this place there is a harbour 
 light, on the larboard side of the entrance ; it is fixed 39 feet high, and may 
 be seen at 3 leagues off. The western point of the isle de Re is distinguished 
 by, a revolving light, of the first class, with 16 lenses : its lights are eclipsed 
 every minute and three-quarters ; they are elevated 95 feet above the sea,
 
 9 
 
 and may be seen 6 leagues off. From this point a great ledge of rocks, 
 called Le Baleines, or the Whales, extends to the distance of three-quarters 
 of a league. There are other reefs on the S. W. side which extend 
 outward to the distance of half a league ; but they diminish thence to the 
 S. E. end of the island. On Point de 1' Aiguillon, at 7 miles E. N. from 
 the port of St. Martin, there is now a fixed harbour light, at 32 feet above 
 the sea ; and which may be seen at 3 leagues off. This light bearing S. E. 
 by E. leads directly into the mid-channel of the Pertuis Breton, 
 between the north side of the isle Re and the main ; on advancing toward 
 the point you haul to the southward, at a mile from shore, and may come 
 to an anchor, with the light bearing N. E. in 3 or 4 fathoms.* 
 
 If bound from this spot into Basque Roads, or to La Rochelle, you may 
 proceed toward the west end of the isle Re, with the Aiguillon light 
 bearing N. E. by N. ; and will thus clear the flats, extending from the N. 
 E. side of the island. The S. E. end of Re is bold-to, and near it is a depth 
 of 7 fathoms ; but a shoal spit extends from the opposite side ; and further 
 south is a small rocky bank, called the Lavardin, which dries at low water; 
 it lies about a mile and a half S. E. by E. from the S. E. end of the island. 
 The extremities of Aiguillon point and the south point of Re in a line, will 
 lead clear of it on the west. Ships may round the Lavardin in good depth 
 of water ; between which and the isle de Re are 5 and 6 fathoms. 
 
 BASQUE ROADS is a fine anchorage, with good hard bottom, carrying 
 from 8 to 20 fathoms at low water, spring tides. It is formed by the coasts 
 of La Vendee and Charente, to the north, east, and south, and to the westward 
 by the islands of Oleron and Re, on the extremities of which stand light- 
 houses ; that on the island de Re has been already described. The Tour 
 le Chasseron, on the north point of Oleron, exhibits a fixed light, of the first 
 class, elevated 101 feet above the sea; and may be distinguished, in clear 
 weather, at the distance of five leagues. The rocks which surround this 
 end of Oleron, called the Antioche rocks, extend 2 miles to the east of the 
 light-house ; but within them there is anchorage. On sailing in, it is safest 
 to keep over to t!ie isle of Re, until near the S. E. end of this island ; only 
 taking care to avoid the Lavardin, before mentioned. Then steer for the 
 west part of the isle of Aix, a flat island, which lies about half way between 
 Oleron and the main land. The soundings in mid-channel, between the isles 
 of Re and Oleron, are from 12 to 15 fathoms, shoaling toward each side. This 
 channel, called the Pertuis d' Antioche, is nearly 2 leagues in breadth. If you 
 enter by this channel, when bound for La Rochelle, give the isle de Re a 
 sufficient offing, to avoid the Lavardin, till you have a lantern tower in full 
 view ; the tower must not be brought on with the point of Chef de Baye, 
 because this mark leads directly on the Lavardin, which lies also with the 
 points of La Piomb and La Repentie in a line. To enter the harbour of 
 La Rochelle and the Charente, or river of Rochefort, a pilot is indispensable. 
 
 HARBOUR LIGHTS. At 45 feet to the eastward of a lantern tower, on the 
 north or left side of the entrance of Rochelle, there is a harbour light. It is 
 a fixed light, at 45 feet above the sea, and may be seen at 4 leagues off. If 
 kept open to the right of the lantern tower, it leads clear of the Lavardin. 
 There is also a harbour light on the fort, on the south point of the isle 
 d'Aix, which is fixed at 55 feet above the level of the sea, and seen at the 
 
 * THE BANCHES VERTES AND ROCHE BONNE, are two reefs which must be care- 
 fully avoided by those proceeding to Basque Roads, &c. They are partly above and partly 
 under water, nearly 2 leagues in extent S. E. and N. W., and distant about J2 leagues from the 
 isle de Re, in latitude 46 1 1' to 46 17'. Near them, to the westward, are 54, and to the east 
 ward, 30 fathoms of water. 
 
 C
 
 
 
 10 
 
 distance of 3 leagues. This light, bearing S. S. E. \ E., leads up the fairway 
 of the Antioche passage, clear of the shoals on the N. E. of Oleron, whence 
 you round into the road of Aix, south of the islands. 
 
 TIDE. The vertical rise of tide hereabout, on the full and change, is 
 10 feet. The time of high water, in the passages of Breton and Antioche, 
 is at 3h. 15m. ; on the isle de Re, 3h. 30m. ; in the harbour of Rochelle, and 
 at Brouage, S. E. of Oleron, 3h. 45m. 
 
 THE RIVER GIRONDE TO BORDEAUX. The entrance to the 
 Gironde, or Garonne, is readily distinguished by the Tour de Cordouan, or 
 light-house, exhibiting a revolving light, shewing alternately a brilliant, 
 faint, and total privation of light ; each change successively taking place at 
 intervals of half a minute during the night. The Tour de Cordouan is 
 nearly 207 feet high, and in clear weather can be seen at the distance of 
 9 leagues. POINT DE LA COUBRE, on the north side of the river, is low, 
 with sand-hills rising inland. It is 2| leagues N. ^ W. from the Tour de 
 Cordouan. On the point is a fixed harbour light, at 36 feet above the sea, 
 and may be seen at the distance of 3 leagues. There is a similar light at 
 Royan, 1 1 miles higher up on the same side. The Point de Grave, on the 
 south side of the entrance, has a tower of wood, exhibiting a fixed light, 
 at 59 feet above the sea, and which may be seen 4| leagues off. 
 
 By the recent surveys of the mouth of the Gironde, it has been found 
 that there are now only two channels, instead of five, as formerly repre- 
 sented. These are the Passe du Nord, or passage by the north shore ; and 
 the Passe du Grave, or southern passage. 
 
 PASSE DU NORD. The entrance of Passe du Nord, between the Point de la 
 Coubre and the banks, lies in the latitude of 45 41', and longitude 1 18'. The 
 mark for entering is, the semaphore in Terra Negre between, or nearly in 
 a line with, the church steeples of St. Palais and Royan, bearing S. E. f E. 
 This will lead to the distance of a mile within Coubre point, to the spot 
 where that point bears north, and whence Coubre semaphore and north 
 beacon are in a line, bearing N. E. ^ E. ; thus you will have passed the 
 bar, in 4| and 6 fathoms. Here you will have fairly entered, and should 
 change the course to S. E. \ S. which may be continued for 8 miles, until 
 the church of St. Palais bears north, about half a league distant. From 
 the last spot a S. S. E. course, 6| miles, will bring you up to Mecher's 
 road, where there is good ground of sand and mud, and from 8 to 10 
 fathoms at low water. Should circumstances require it, you may run 
 up and take shelter under the point de Grave, which affords a safe retreat 
 during westerly and S. W. winds. The mark is Royan steeple and mills 
 N. E. ^ E. At this place, between Verdun and the bank called the 
 Taille Fer, coasting vessels are commonly sheltered in bad weather. 
 
 PASSE DE GRAVE. This channel is 4 leagues to the southward of 
 the Passe du Nord, and is 2 leagues in length. Its entrance lies in 
 latitude 45 31' with the Tour de Cordouan bearing N. E. one league and 
 a half distant, and the beacon of St. Nicholas on with the semaphore of 
 the same, bearing E. \ S. 5| miles. The passage has, in its shoalest part, 
 commonly about 13 feet, but spots have been found of only 11 feet; and 
 there is one rock of only 7 feet, lying 1700 fathoms N. W. by W. from 
 the semaphore of St. Nicholas. It is also to be observed, that there is a 
 flat of rock and gravel, extending N. W. from the coast of the Point de 
 Grave to the distance of more than a mile, but on its edge is a depth of 
 27 feet, and no danger, unless in roxigh weather. 
 
 If a pilot cannot be had, you may enter the Passe de Grave, with the 
 beacon on the sand-downs in one with the semaphore of St. Nicholas, 
 bearing E. ^ S. as above, and may carry this mark on until the steeple of
 
 11 
 
 St. Pierre de Royan (open to the right of the semaphore of that place,) 
 comes in a line with the beacon, bearing E. N. E. The last mark kept on 
 will lead into the main stream of the river, and at the distance of nearly a 
 mile from the Point de Grave. Hence, you haul round the point to the 
 eastward, according to circumstances. In going through the Channel de 
 Grave, be cautious of advancing too near the shore, as the tide of flood sets 
 strongly upon it ; and never, if avoidable, attempt to anchor in it. No 
 large vessel should attempt to leave the river by this channel, unless with 
 rising tide and favourable wind. 
 
 It has been recently observed, that when the weather is hazy and there 
 is the appearance of a calm, vessels should avoid entering the river; 
 because, at such times, a heavy swell of the sea will frequently arise in an 
 instant. This phenomenon is called by the pilots Le Brume Seche, or the 
 dry fog ; it is a sort of mist, accompanied by a calm, which is invariably 
 followed by a great swell in the channels. 
 
 TIDES. At the entrance of the Channel de Grave, with the Cordouan 
 tower bearing N. E., the tides set as follows : First of the flood, North ; 
 one-third flood, N. E. ; half and two-thirds flood, E. N. E. ; first ebb, S. E. ; 
 one-third ebb, South ; half and two-thirds ebb, West. In the channel 
 within, with Cordouan bearing N. N. W., the flood sets generally E. N. E. ; 
 and the ebb TV. S. W. Between the great bank of the Cordouan and the 
 point of Grave the flood sets, generally, S. E. ; the ebb from West to 
 W. S. W. The tides, both ebb and flood, set through the different 
 channels with rapidity, and great caution is therefore requisite on making 
 the river. Should the land marks be obscured by thick weather, or if 
 night comes on, it will be prudent to anchor in the first convenient spot, 
 only noticing the precautions above. 
 
 It is high water, on the full and change, northward of Cordouan, at 4h. 
 30m., and southward of Cordouan, at 3h. 45m. The perpendicular rise of 
 spring tides is 14 or 15 feet, and of neaps 7 or 8 feet. The tides during 
 the months of May, June, and even a part of July, are very small ; but 
 the Magdalen tides are often as high as those of the equinoxes, which rise 
 17 or 18 feet. The winds have a great influence on the tides; and, in gen- 
 eral, you may depend on a good tide when the wind blows strongly into the 
 river, and a lesser one may be expected with a strong wind blowing seaward. 
 
 THE BASSIN D'ARCACHON. From the Point de Grave, at the 
 mouth of the Gironde, to the Bassin d'Arcachon, all the coast is low, sandy, 
 and uneven. The Bassin d'Arcachon, though extensive, is too shoal for 
 a place of much resort. Its banks block up the entrance, with the excep- 
 tion of two small channels, known only to the inhabitants and pilots. The 
 breakers at the entrance may always be seen ; the soundings toward them 
 diminish gradually ; and the place may be known by its low level land, 
 destitute of trees on the north side, and the high downs appearing like little 
 mountains on the south. 
 
 BAYONNE. From the Bassin d'Arcachon to the river Adour, or 
 harbour of Bayonne, the distance is 22 leagues. The mouth of the harbour 
 lies between two sandy hummocks. The bar frequently changes ; the sea 
 without is very rough ; there is no entrance but at high water, and then a 
 pilot is required. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR THE BAR OF BAYONNE. " Captains of vessels bound 
 to Bayonne should carefully calculate the time of high water, in order to 
 be off* the bar at the proper time for entering the Adour. Their calculation 
 should be founded on the establishment of the bar, which is at 3h. 30m. 
 When the sea is smooth the bar will allow the passage over it at 
 springs, of vessels drawing 14 feet, and at neaps those of 11 feet
 
 12 
 
 draught may pass it ; provided, in both cases, that they do so at the time 
 of high water." 
 
 " It is not always the deficiency of water on the bar of the Adour which 
 determines the chief of the pilot station to signalize that the entrance of 
 the river is impracticable, or at least dangerous; he is guided in his 
 decision as much by the state of the sea on the bar, and the velocity and 
 duration of the ebb stream. The sea is sometimes smooth outside while it 
 is terrific on the bar, and when it would be impossible to steer a vessel in 
 the surf on it, while even the wind may be fair for entering." 
 
 " The pilots may be sometimes deceived in their opinion respecting the 
 state of the bar of the Adour ; but whatever state it may be in, when 
 there is nothing to prevent a vessel keeping the sea, there is no excuse 
 for a vessel attempting to enter the river, when their experience de- 
 cides on the signal being made not to do so. Even success in the attempt 
 is scarcely enough to justify it. Captains are moreover informed, that 
 the final signal to any class of vessels not to attempt the bar is never 
 made, but after the result of a mature deliberation among the pilots with 
 their chief." 
 
 Course to steer for the bar. " Great care should be taken, when making 
 the bar, to keep to the northward of it, whenever the wind has previously 
 prevailed from N. N. W. to East; and to keep to the southward of it on 
 the contrary, when the wind has prevailed for 5 or 6 days from South to 
 W. N. W. Experience has proved, that in the first of these cases, the 
 current sets to the S. W., and that it has carried vessels down to the coast 
 of Spain that have not taken the above precaution." 
 
 " In the case of the wind being from South to W. N. W. the current 
 sets to the N. E., vessels are then exposed to being drifted to the north- 
 ward of the bar, when finding no shelter, and being unable to keep off the 
 land in bad weather, they are obliged to run on shore between Bayonne 
 and Vieux Boucant. When the wind is from N. N. W. to N. W., a 
 vessel may run directly for the mouth of the river ; and in this case, as in 
 the preceeding, it should always be remembered that the light of Biarritz is 
 a short league to the S. W. of the bar." 
 
 " When a ship, bound to Bayonne, meets with the wind between W. S. W. 
 and W. N. W. on the coast of Spain, and at such a distance as precludes 
 the hope of entering the river before dark, she should stand off" and on under 
 a press of sail, so as to counteract the effect of the current, which runs at 
 the rate of 4 or 5 knots to the N. E. whenever the wind has been blowing 
 some days between W. N. W. and South : she ought also to strive to keep 
 an anchorage under her lee, into which she may run in the morning, in 
 case of the weather obliging her to seek refuge in it. If she be certain 
 that the current is setting her to the N. E., she should stand two hours to 
 the northward or to the sea, and three hours to the southward or in-shore. 
 The practice of the most experienced navigators has confirmed the impor- 
 tance of this mode of proceeding." 
 
 SIGNALS MADE AT THE MOUTH OF THE ADOUR. " In the signals for 
 entering it is essentially necessary to distinguish that signifying approach 
 from that of entering. They are made from two different stations, but 
 with the same system of flags." 
 
 1. SIGNAL OF APPROACH. "The signal of approach summons vessels 
 to the bar." 
 
 2. THE SIGNAL OF ENTERING. "The signal of entering summons 
 vessels across the bar, and directs them how to steer so as to pass it." 
 
 " The signal of approach is made on the shore to the south of the entrance, 
 on a mast 100 feet above the level of the sea at high water. That for
 
 13 
 
 entering is made at a white tower, about 50 feet high, at the head of the 
 southern quay, about 5 ot 6 cables' length from the bar. The mast for the 
 signal of approach is about a cable's length and a half from this tower." 
 
 " Ships coining to Bayonne should arrive at that distance which will 
 enable them to distinguish the mast for the signal of approach, in order 
 that they may conform to the signals from it, or keeping off, as hereafter 
 stated." 
 
 COLOUR AND SIGNIFICATION op THE FLAGS. Flags shetcn at the tower, 
 
 1. Swedish flag (blue with a yellow cross,) signifies, that vessels under 
 9 feet draught are to approach. 
 
 2. Flag chequered with red and white squares, that vessels drawing 
 9 feet and more are to approach. 
 
 3. Dutch flag (tricoloured, horizontal,) that vessels of all kinds are to 
 approach. 
 
 " Vessels are distinguished by two divisions, to each of which a par- 
 ticular flag is assigned. Their coalition is indicated by the Dutch flag, 
 which is addressed to all, large and small." 
 
 SHIPS TO APPROACH. " The division of vessels, the signal of which is 
 made to approach, should make all possible sail to profit by the tide in 
 entering. When about a quarter of a league from the bar, these vessels 
 should observe whether their signal is made from the tower, and then they 
 will obey successively the indications of the flag^ from this tower, as will 
 be seen in the special article on passing the bar." 
 
 SHIPS TO KEEP OFF. " If after the signal has been made for ships to 
 approach the bar, the chief pilot considers it necessary, in consequence of 
 of a change of weather, to make the signal for keeping off, he will hoist and 
 lower the Dutch flag on the tower three times, after having hauled it down 
 from the flag-staff for calling the vessels in; there will then be no signal up 
 anywhere. When the chief pilot forbids one class of vessels only from 
 entering, lie will hoist and lower three times the flag addressed to this 
 class, and re-hoist on the flag-staff, on the sand-hill, the Dutch flag for that 
 class of vessels which he would have approach the bar." 
 
 " If the vessels summoned to the bar approach too near the coast, and 
 the time for their entering the river be not come, the signal to them will be 
 hauled down ; but as the signal for keeping off is not made at the tower, 
 this is no denial of their entering ; vessels waiting for time should keep a 
 little to seaward, under easy sail, until they are finally called to enter." 
 
 EXAMPLES IN THE DSE OF THE FLAGS IN DIFFERENT CASES. 1. "The 
 chief pilot considers that none but small vessel will be able to enter in the 
 course of the tide. In this case the Swedish flag is hoisted on the flag-staff 
 on the beach ; small vessels may crowd on sail for the bar, where they 
 will wait until the same flag hoisted at the tower directs them to the 
 entrance." 
 
 2. " The chief pilot considers that the state of the sea will permit only 
 large vessels to enter. In this case the chequered flag will be hoisted at 
 the flag-staff on the beach, large vessels only will approach the bar ; and 
 the same flag hoisted at the tower will direct them to the entrance of 
 the Adour." 
 
 3. " Ships of both classes may enter Bayonne as is most generally 
 the case. The Dutch flag, on the flag-staff on the beach there, calls all 
 vessels over the bar. The chief pilot commences taking in the small ones 
 at half tide, hoisting the Swedish flag at the tower. When there is 
 sufficient water on the bar for the large ones the Swedish flag is hauled 
 down, and the Dutch one shewn in its stead, which applies equally to 
 vessels of both classes."
 
 14 
 
 4. " The Dutch flag having called all vessels, without distinction, the 
 chief pilot may consider it right, from motives, of which he is the best 
 judge, to warn off the large vessels, and only to admit the small ones : in 
 this case the Dutch flag at the flag-staff on the beach is lowered, and the 
 Swedish flag substituted for it ; at the same time the chequered flag is 
 hoisted and lowered three times, at the tower, to warn off large ships ; 
 small vessels only then should remain, and wait till the Swedish flaw is 
 hoisted to direct them over the bar." 
 
 5. "The whole of the ships having been directed to enter by the 
 Dutch flag, the sea may increase, so that it becomes necessary to forbid 
 small vessels entering, in order to admit the larger ones. The signals will 
 be the same as in the 4th example, that is, the chequered flag is substituted, 
 at the flag-staff on the beach, for the Dutch flag ; at the same time the 
 Swedish flag will be hoisted and lowered three times, at the tower flag- 
 staff, to warn off small vessels ; large ships should look out, and remain 
 till the chequered flag is also hoisted at the tower, to direct them over 
 the bar." 
 
 Precautions. " As soon as one of the three flags is hoisted at the tower, 
 the ships which it summons should make all sail possible for the bar, 
 taking care to leave room between each other, so that no one should 
 enter the surf until the one preceding her has passed it, and has time to 
 pass the signal-staff and anchor. As soon as the first ship has arrived 
 within the surf, the flag at the tower will be lowered half-mast high, and 
 hoisted again immediately ; this movement will indicate that it will be to 
 her that the signals from the toicer will be next addressed; when the second 
 ship has also passed the bar, the flag at the tower will be lowered and re- 
 hoisted to the third, and so on. It is recommended that captains of vessels 
 pay the greatest attention to this signal, in order that they may not fall 
 into serious mistakes." 
 
 " Whenever the flag of the tower is inclined to the north or to the south, 
 the vessel entering is to put her head more to the north or south than 
 before, and will continue to do so as long as the flag is so inclined. As 
 soon as the flag is righted, the vessel is to keep on the course on which she 
 may be at that instant, and will continue so, until she be signalized afresh 
 by the same flag." 
 
 EXAMPLES. 1. "Suppose that a vessel is to the N. "VV. of the bar, 
 steering S. E. to enter. If the flag of the tower be inclined to the south- 
 ward, this vessel should come successively to South, S. S. W., and even 
 S. W., in fact she should keep more and more to starboard as long as the 
 flag remains inclined to South. As soon as the flag is righted, the vessel 
 will keep on the course she was steering at the instant ; should she be 
 steering S. S. W. she should keep so, till signalized afresh." 
 
 2. " "When a vessel ,to the S. W. of the bar. is steering to the N. E. 
 If the flag of the tower be inclined to the North, the vessel will keep more 
 to port, as long as the flag remains so inclined, and she will, as above, keep 
 her head on the course she may be steering when the flag is righted. 
 Other signals from the tower will be directed to her." 
 
 THE FLAG op THE TOWER LOWERED TO AVOID MISTAKES. "If two 
 vessels, one from the north and the other from the south, should offer at 
 the same time to take the bar, as the signals to be made to them must 
 necessarily be contrary, no signal will be made to either, in order that all 
 fatal mistakes may be avoided. The flag of the tower will then be lowered, 
 the two ships must haul their wind, and the signal will be rehoisted when 
 they are at the entrance of the port, or at least when they are so situated 
 as that all confusion will be avoided."
 
 15 
 
 " When a vessel's draught of water is required to be known, approaching 
 the bar alone or before others, the flag of the tower will be hoisted and 
 lowered once. If the vessel draw 9 feet and under, she will answer by 
 hoisting and lowering her flag once ; if she draw 10 feet, by doing so twice ; 
 if 11, three times, and so on.' 
 
 THE PASSING OP THE BAB WILL THUS BE DEFERRED OR DENIED TO A 
 
 SHIP. " After the above answer, or under any other circumstances, if the 
 chief pilot considers it necessary to delay a ship's passing the bar that may 
 be making for it, he will hoist and lower twice the flag of the tower ; and 
 if he denies her taking it altogether, he will hoist and lower it three times. 
 No signal appearing at the signal-staff on the beach, it will be evident that 
 this signal of denial will only apply to the vessel about or nearest to enter ; 
 for we have seen above that it is necessary to change or suppress the 
 signal of approach, that the signal of denial made at the tower may apply 
 to whole divisions." 
 
 "The bar being connected with the points forming the mouth of the 
 river, and lying distinctly out to seaward, ships should carefully avoid 
 keeping along the coast when near it. The mouth of the river should 
 always be kept well open, without approaching the surf more than is 
 actually necessary in crossing it." Nautical Magazine for 1839, 
 page 515. 
 
 THE RIVER ADOUR is subject to a very considerable increase of 
 water, which increases the current of the river so much as to overpower 
 the flood tide. Under this circumstance the current always sots out ; and 
 the outset may be known by the water of the river, which may be remarked 
 to more than a league at sea. In this case, no attempt should be made to 
 enter the river, because the current, running outward, increases the danger 
 of going over the bar ; nevertheless, if the wind be strong and the Dutch 
 flag hoisted, it may be forced, but care must be taken to carry a press of 
 sail, and to have the dead-lights in, the hatches on, and the boats, spars, &c. 
 well secured, the sea on the bar being then very dangerous. In such a case 
 it is necessary for a vessel to keep herself ready to enter at least an hour 
 and a half before high water. In general the bar must be forced with all 
 the sail the vessel can carry. If she come in with the wind right aft, the 
 jibs must be kept hoisted, and hauled close against the stays ; this precau- 
 tion is indispensable, for if the sea forces the vessel from her course, they will 
 assist her in regaining it. A vessel which, from tempestuous weather, may 
 not be able to force the bar, should, if the wind permit, put into the port 
 of Passage, in Spain ; a coasting pilot will be sent thither by the chief pilot, 
 with instructions to conduct her to Bayonne. 
 
 ANCHORAGE AND PORTS OF REFUGE. 
 
 PASSAGE. In bad weather vessels which cannot pass the bar of 
 Bayonne, if the wind permits, should anchor in the excellent port of Passage, 
 where they will be certain of finding pilots and every necessary. When cap- 
 tains require it, the chief pilot at the bar can send to Passage for pilots and 
 instructions to take ships to Bayonne ; with this precaution, there is never 
 any risk in returning to the anchorage after havinw left. 
 
 SOCOA OR ST. JEAN DE LUZ. If there be not too much sea, 
 vessels which cannot get into the Adour may anchor at Socoa, a little port 
 very safe, inside the west point of St. Jean de Luz; but they should consider 
 first their draught of water, the tides and directions, and above all should 
 keep clear of detatched stones proceeding from the rubbish of the quays of 
 St. Jean de Luz and Socoa. THE BAY OF ST. JEAN DE Luz is about six
 
 16 
 
 cables' length deep, and nearly as many wide, from the point of St. Barbe to 
 the fort of Socoa. Nearly in the middle of this line is the Arta, a bed of 
 rocks on which the sea often breaks, although there are 4 fathoms on it at low 
 water. This bank is on the line from the steeple of St. Jean de Luz to mount 
 Eshawrre, and from the tower of the fort of Socoa to the house nearest to it. 
 There is a passage between this danger and the fort of Socoa, about one- 
 third the breadth of the bay at Socoa ; the rocks are thus left to port in 
 entering. It is necessary to avoid as much as possible entering before the 
 time of half flood, although the pilot boats can go out at quarter flood, and 
 even at low water of neap tides. The time of high water is the same as 
 at the bar of Bayonne. 
 
 POINT ST. BARBE. The east point of this harbour is steep towards the sea, 
 with a battery on it. The west point, called Socoa point, has a round tower, 
 now a light-house, with a fortification under it, from which a pier extends 
 S. E. a cable's length ; within the latter another pier extends to the east 
 from the shore, so that the two form a little harbour on the west side of 
 the bay, the entrance to which has but 3 feet in it at low water. In 
 order to accommodate vessels in this harbour, four transporting buoys have 
 been laid down, in different situations, to which they may be attached under 
 the regulations of the port. 
 
 SIGNALS are made to, and for the use of vessels in the vicinity. A 
 fire on the mountain is a signal for vessels to keep at sea, the entrance of 
 the port not being practicable. The display of a red flag on the same 
 mountain directs vessels in sight not to attempt to enter till half-flood ; but as 
 soon as the red flag is lowered and a tricoloured flag is shewn at the same 
 place, vessels may make for the land, taking particular care to observe the 
 signals of this flag. A vessel should alter her course to port or starboard ac- 
 cording as the flag may be inclined, and keep on that course which she may 
 be steering when the flag is righted. When the flag on the mountain disap- 
 pears, the vessel should look out for a similar flag on the north jetty, and 
 follow the same signals from it. This flag will lead vessels to the anchorage, 
 which a vessel may steer for, as soon as the flag is lowered, and not before, 
 and moor with two anchors and a hawser to steady her : she should first 
 drop her best bower for the northern anchor, and having done so, run S. W. 
 and let go her small bower. 
 
 The signals from these flags are but seldom used, vessels generally enter- 
 ing with a pilot. 
 
 Marks for laying the northern anchor : bearings ly compass. Church of 
 St. Jean de Luz, S. E. ^ S. ; Chapel of Bordagain, S. S. W. 4 S. ; Capstan on 
 the north quay of Socoa, N. W. ^ W. Marks for laying the S. W. anchor. 
 Church of St. Jean de Luz, S. E. 2 E. ; Chapel of Bordagain, S .S. AV. ^ S. ; 
 Capstan as before, N. N. W. ^ W. In the middle of the bottom of the bay, 
 is the small river ot St. Jean de Luz, having a depth of only 4 feet at low 
 water. This river, at a little way up, divides into two branches, on the 
 banks of which are the towns of St. Jean de Luz and Cibouron, which are 
 connected by a wooden bridge. 
 
 The entrance to this port may be found by means of the two mountains 
 De la Rune and Batallera ; the first bearing from Socoa point nearly S. by 
 E. 5 miles, and the latter S. "W. W. 5| miles. Mount de la Rune is lofty 
 and sharp pointed ; and it has, or had, a hermitage on its summit ; yet, 
 when this mount bears from S; S. E. to S. S. W. it does not so appear, but 
 presents a level ridge from the hermitage to the S. E., which seems to be 
 still longer when it bears to the westward of S. S W. Many ridges appear 
 beyond this mountain, all of which are much farther up the country. Mount 
 Batallera is high and broad ; and, when viewed in the direction above men-
 
 17 
 
 tioned, appears like a crown set round with a number of small peaks on its 
 summit. Hence, the French commonly call it La Montagne Couronee, or 
 the crowned mountain. When it is seen to the westward of S. S. W. 
 (true South,) it loses the figure of a crown, and presents only three irregular 
 peaks. 
 
 Those bound to St. Jean de Luz may also ascertain their situation by 
 the remarkable land between Cape Higuera and Port Passage. This land 
 forms a hill, which begins at the cape : it is the first high land on this shore, 
 and is called Jaysquivel, or the shoulder of the mountain, in allusion to its 
 being the termination of the Pyrenees on the sea. 
 
 To the northward of the bay of Bayonne there is not anchorage for a 
 vessel in bad weather, not even in the fosse of Cape Breton. The beach of 
 this fosse, nevertheless, in case of loss, is one on which vessels may run for 
 a chance of saving their crews : unfortunately, to gain this in bad weather, 
 it is absolutely necessary to run into the fosse at its entrance, about 6 miles 
 from the coast, and indicated by two buoys, and then steer up it to the 
 shore. To the northward or southward of the fosse are two long flats of 
 sand, on which the sea breaks furiously, and which it is scarcely possible to 
 pass. 
 
 In bad weather there will be less danger in remaining at anchor outside the 
 bar than in either endeavouring to gain the fosse of Cape Breton, by running 
 along the coast, or in endeavouring to work off. The anchorage is about 
 half a league N. W. (by compass) from the entrance of the river, in 12 to 15 
 fathoms, the best position to run in from, at the first favourable moment, 
 and where the ebb makes it favourable to make sail from, in the event of 
 the wind allowing a vessel to get away from the land. 
 
 From Bayonne to Socoa there is no anchorage but that already described 
 at this latter place. Vessels anchor here in 4 fathoms at low water, the 
 bottom sand and rocks, and it is necessary to buoy the cables. The jetties 
 of the port afford shelter from the wind ; but the anchorage is very 
 dangerous. 
 
 FONTERABIA. The bay of St. Jean de Luz, in which Socoa is situated, 
 is sometimes inaccessible in bad weather, from the heavy sea which beats 
 over the flats of St. Jean de Luz. The bay of Fonterabia is then the only 
 part of the coast which can afford shelter to vessels surprised by bad weather, 
 so as to be unable to work off shore. Small vessels are safe there, in an- 
 choring close to the Chateau du Figuier, bearing south by compass : it is 
 there that the fishermen of St. Jean de Luz wait, made fast to the shore, 
 until they can return home. Large vessels anchor at 2 or 3 cables' length 
 south of the fort, in 8 to 10 fathoms, muddy bottom, where they are safe 
 from winds, from S. S. W. to W. N. W., but in danger with northerly ones. 
 Navigators are especially reminded, that SO -soon as they get a glimpse of the 
 shore, if they wish for a pilot, they must be careful to hoist a flag at their fore 
 topgallant-mast head, by which they will be certain of obtaining one, accord- 
 ing to their position, either from the port of Socoa, or from the villages of 
 Biaritz, Guethary, to the southward of the Aar, or even from Bayonne and 
 Capbreton, if the sea be smooth. 
 
 It is strongly recommended to captains bound to Bayonne^ particularly in 
 winter and with westerly winds, to make the land on the coast of Spain, 
 between Cape Machichaco and San Sebastian ; that, in case the weather 
 should become tempestuous, and crossing the bar of Bayonne, which is dan- 
 gerous, they may have to leeward of them either the ports of San Sebastian 
 and Passage, in Spain, or St. Jean de Luz and Socoa, in France, from 
 which ports they will be sure of obtaining pilots. 
 
 At 3 miles S. W. from the mouth of the Adour is the the little port 
 
 D
 
 18 
 
 and village of Biaritz ; the village is nearly a mile from the sea. On point 
 St. Martin de Biaritz, at the distance of 2^ miles S. 33 W. from the 
 mouth of the Adour, is a light-tower, from which a revolving light is 
 exhibited. The flashes from it succeed each other every half minute 
 throughout the night ; and, in clear weather, they will be visible to an 
 observer elevated 33 feet above the surface of the sea, at the distance of 8 
 leagues ; and they will not be entirely obscured when within any distance 
 less than 4 leagues. 
 
 CAPE HIGUERA, the western side of the harbour of Fonterabia, lies 3 
 miles to the westward of Socoa point, and at the same distance to the 
 westward of point Higuera is Turrula Point, extending a little way out 
 from the foot of mount Jaysquivel. Here the coast is of rock, and many 
 points stand detached from the land. Hence, to Port Passage, the shore 
 is high and steep. 
 
 PORT PASSAGE is formed by two low rocky points that stretch out 
 a considerable way, and thereby narrow the channel; they bear from 
 each other nearly W. by N. and E. by S., and are distant about 92 
 fathoms. Within the points which form the harbour, the shores are 
 rugged and craggy; that on the east is bordered with rocks, which, in 
 some places, extend 15 fathoms from the land. On the opposite side the 
 point of Cruces projects, at low water, about 6 fathoms, from a high and 
 very steep hill, forming at the bottom a small level spot, on which people 
 may land, but entirely covered at high water. The castle of Sta. Isabel, 
 or St. Elizabeth, on the eastern side, is the first building seen within the har- 
 bour. The tower of St. Sebastian above it, on the opposite side, is round 
 and high ; it seems standing in the water, but is connected to a small 
 battery on the land. The space between the castle of St. Elizabeth and this 
 tower is the only anchorage for vessels drawing more than 10 feet water. 
 
 The hermitage of St. Anna is the second building seen on entering the 
 harbour. It stands on the eastern side, at a quarter of a mile above the 
 castle of St. Elizabeth, and serves as a mark for avoiding the western 
 shoal that lies without the entrance. This shoal is a sharp pointed rock, 
 having on its summit but 2^ fathoms of water, but close to it is a depth of 
 5 or 6 fathoms. The rock lies, with the hermitage of St. Annn, hidden by 
 the spot of point Cruces, on which the cross is erected. The eastern bank, 
 without the harbour, is a rocky bar, 41 fathoms in length, and having only 
 one fathom over it ; but between it and the land are from 4 to 7 fathoms, 
 and on its north side, very close to it, are 11 and 12 fathoms. All that is 
 requisite, in order to keep clear of it, is not to run within two-thirds of a 
 cable's length of the east shore of the harbour. 
 
 In entering the harbour, when at the distance of 2 or 3 cables' length 
 from the mouth of it, bring the hermitage of St. Anna, with the rocks at 
 its base, open with the iron cross on point Cruces ; or, bring the extremity 
 of point Cruces in a line with the salient angle on the western side of St. 
 Elizabeth!s castle ; then stand on, with these marks, in mid-channel, until 
 you are half way between the little point of Arando and point Cruces. 
 From this spot stand more to the eastward, in order to keep clear of the 
 rocky shoal about that point, until the tower of St. Sebastian appears 
 between St. Elizabeth's castle and the point. Now steer for the tower, 
 which will lead, through the deepest water, to point Cruces, whence you 
 turn towards the castle of St Elizabeth. Having passed the castle of St. 
 Elizabeth you may bring to, in 3^ or 4 fathoms, with an anchor from the 
 stern ; then make fast cables to the shore, on both sides, in rocks bored 
 through for that purpose. At high water there will be room to turn the 
 vessel round, and to moor with four good cables out, N. E. and S. W., and
 
 19 
 
 N. W. and S. E. especially in winter, on account of the strong run of the 
 sea, and the whirling gusts of wind which come down through the breaks 
 in the hills into and about the harbour. The time of high water in the 
 port, is 3h. Common spring tides rise 12 feet; neap tides, 8 to 10 feet; 
 equinoctial spring tides, 15 feet. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS : 1. A large vessel may take PORT PASSAGE, with 
 the wind from W. N. W. by the North, to E. N. E., when the tide is 
 growing, and the sea not very rough. Other winds are apt to take the 
 vessel ahead in the windings in the harbour, which is too narrow to admit 
 of tacking ; but when these winds are very easy, vessels can anchor at the 
 entrance, and may be warped in or towed by the country boats. The 
 most adverse wind is from the west ; for as, from the mouth as far as 
 point Cruces, it draws away a little to the N. W., it promises an easy en- 
 trance ; but from this point inwards, it comes away from the S. W. squally 
 and uneven, so as neither to allow a vessel to go in, nor to turn back to 
 the mouth, nor even to come to anchor, because this is the narrowest part 
 of the harbour ; so that such circumstances render an advance dangerous. 
 
 2. The tide ought to be growing, for the wind commonly dies away 
 between point Cruces and St. Elizabeth's castle ; but the tide, added to 
 the ship's way, soon carries her beyond that spot ; and, with regard to the 
 steerage, it is taken for granted that she has boats, both ahead and 
 astern, to assist in case of danger. Should she touch the ground any- 
 where the tide probably may lift her off. 
 
 3. If the sea without be not moderate, the water is so rough within the 
 harbour as to disturb the steering of any vessel, and she may, in a few 
 seconds, be on shore. 
 
 4. At this and the other harbours hereabout, the activity of the native 
 seamen alleviate the dangers very considerably ; being ready with their 
 boats in piloting and towing vessels into them. Those of Port Passage 
 and the neighbouring harbour of St. Sebastian have peculiar encourage- 
 ment, by a regulation, which ordains that the boat which first reaches the 
 vessel must be employed, and each man in her paid 12 reals of Vellon, or 
 2s. 6d. sterling. The other boats may either be employed or not, at the 
 option of the master, and each man employed can demand only 9 reals, or 
 Is. 10;|d. Both men and boats are well qualified for towing, warping, 
 mooring, or keeping a vessel of any size in her proper course. 
 
 5. In thick or hazy weather, when the people in the vigias or look- 
 outs, on land, are unable to discover vessels, on firing a few shots, the boats 
 stand off to sea, but not beyond soundings. In stormy weather, when 
 they cannot venture off, the people repair to the mouth of the harbour, 
 to make fast cables on shore, and do every thing else in their power, to 
 assist vessels approaching. 
 
 At the distance of 5 leagues from Port Passage, the depth, without, varies 
 from 100 to 120 fathoms; and at one league, from 25 to 30 fathoms; in 
 some places rock, in others sand. The prevailing winds hereabout are, in 
 winter, from the S. W. and N. W. quarters, in general with rain ; in sum- 
 mer, gales from E. and N. E., with clear open weather, are frequent. The 
 currents generally follow the direction of the wind. If a vessel, bound for 
 Port Passage, should find the wind blowing hard from west, the safest way 
 will be not to attempt this harbour, but to run, if possible, into that of St. 
 Sebastian, and stay there until the wind or weather changes. Or, if more to 
 the westward, she may be sheltered on the east side of Atalaya, or Look-oui 
 Point of Guetaria, 7 miles from St. Sebastian, as the anchoroge there is 
 safe and easily taken. 
 
 ST. SEBASTIAN. To the westward of Port Passage is the high and
 
 20 
 
 steep point of Atalaya, with a shoal at two cables' length from it, on 
 which the sea breaks, when there is even but little swell. There is a 
 passage between the shoal and the land, through which a vessel may 
 venture in case of necessity. The northern point of MONT ORGULLO, or 
 the high land of, St. Sebastian, is a mile and a half from point Atalaya, 
 and exhibits, on its summit, the large castle of LA MOTA. Within the hill, 
 to the S. E., is the fortified town of St. Sebastian. The light-house stands 
 on Mont Igueldo, at the distance of a mile to the westward of the castle 
 of La Mota. The island of St. Clara, which is somewhat rugged and of 
 moderate height, lies between, and has a chapel on it. La Bancha is a 
 rocky shoal lying oft' the isle of St. Clara ; its shoalest water is 3 fathoms, 
 and, with a swell, the sea breaks on it. The passage in, between Mont 
 Orgullo and the isle of St. Clara, is clear. It has nearly 9 fathoms in 
 mid-channel, but only two on each side. The harbours maybe readily 
 found, by the castle of La Mota and the light-house, both of which may 
 be seen in clear weather, at the distance of 10 or 12 leagues. The light- 
 house is white, and, by night, exhibits a fixed light, which may be seen 
 7 or 8 leagues off. 
 
 To ENTER THE BAY. Keeping clear of La Bancha, bring St. Bartho- 
 lomew's church (which stands in the bottom of the bay) in a line with 
 Mont Ordaburo (which stands inland, having two peaks on its summit) 
 and bearing S. by E. ^ E. By following this direction, until the town of 
 Guetaria be hidden by the northernmost part of Mont Igueldo, you will be 
 within the shoal, and may make for that anchorage in the bay, which 
 seems most convenient. The common anchorage for Targe vessels, is about 
 a cable's length to the south-eastward from St. Clara's island, but it will 
 admit only two at a time, in from 4| to 5 fathoms, mooring with four an- 
 chors N. E. and S. W., and N. W. and S. E., as, from the small extent of 
 deep water, there is not room for them to swing round. All the cables and 
 anchors should be good, because those to the N. E. and N. W. have to resist 
 the heavy sea setting in, when the wind is to N. W., and those to the S. E. 
 and S. W. have to resist the efflux of water out of the bay : cables may also 
 be made fast to the rocks of the island, taking care to serve them well to the 
 length of 30 fathoms, as the bottom is rocky close round the island ; at a 
 greater distance the ground is clear and good. Small vessels may come-to on 
 the south side of the island, in 2^ and 3 fathoms. 
 
 For the protection of vessels trading with the town, there are piers, 
 within which vessels of 300 tons may enter at high water ; but, when the 
 tide is out, they lie dry on a hard bottom. In a gale from the N. W. it is 
 very hazardous to run for the piers ; for the vessel must come-to opposite 
 the outer one, perfectly exposed, and at high water precisely, when some 
 of the shore boats must be employed to convey a cable to the ship, by 
 which the people on the pier heave her within the heads. 
 
 From Mont Igueldo to the river Orrio, an extent of 5 miles, the coast is 
 high and precipitous, and from two small projecting points are some 
 detached rocks, with ground which appears of a whitish colour, and hence 
 the second point is called Tierra Blanca. The latter is at the foot of 
 Mont Agudo, which serves as a mark for the coast. The mouth of the 
 river Orrio lies between high land on each side, and on its bar is a depth of 
 only one foot, at low water. From the river Orrio to point Mairruari, 
 distant one mile, an islet lies off the point surrounded with reefs. 
 
 About 7 5 miles to the westward, from the light-house of St. Sebastian, 
 is the ATALAYA, or LOOKOUT POINT, of GUETARIA. It is the north point 
 of the island of St. Antonio, which has a chapel on its top. The island is 
 rather elevated, and joined to the main by a pier, so as to afford a safe
 
 21 
 
 harbour fur small vessels; but those of a larger class may anchor securely 
 on the east side of the pier, in 8 or 10 fathoms, being well protected from all 
 winds from the S. W. to X. N. W., but is entirely open to other winds. 
 This road may be readily known, when near the laud, by the island ; but, 
 at a distance, the island is not distinguishable from the main land. In a 
 state of uncertainty, if the flat shore of Sarans be made, this will be a 
 certain guide. 
 
 ST. NICHOLAS' ISLAND is joined to the main land by a neck of sand, 
 uncovered at low water. It is an islet of middling height, with a her- 
 mitage and battery on it. Within it is the little haven of Lequeitio, 
 which admits fishing and other small vessels. More than a mile from 
 this is the hermitage of St. Catherine, with a watch-tower, on a projecting 
 point of moderate elevation, perpendicular towards the sea, and of a black 
 colour ; the singularity of which marks this part of the coast, as well as 
 the height of Lequeitio, which stands at the distance of a mile from the 
 hermitage. The POINT op HEA, low and rocky, with some large rocks 
 about it, is a mile and two-thirds from St. Catherine's point. CAPE 
 OGOUNO, which is high, of a red colour, and perpendicular, is 5j miles 
 from the same point. This cape is an excellent land-mark, there being no 
 other like it on the coast. The ISLE OF ISARO, surrounded with shoals 
 and rocks, lies 2 miles from Cape Ogouno ; between it and the main is a 
 passage of 12 fathoms. Within this island is the mouth of the river of 
 Mondaca, impeded by a shallow bar. The harbour of Bermeo, a small 
 creek, lies one mile and a quarter from Isaro. 
 
 CAPE MACHICHACO is 3^ miles from the isle of Isaro. It is not 
 very high, but steep, and has a number of rocks about its base ; at about 
 half-way up the slope is a sudden break, visible in every direction between 
 W. S. W. southward, to E. S. E. (by compass) ; by this break the cape 
 is distinguishable from other mountains of the neighbourhood. At two- 
 thirds of a mile to the west of Cape Machichaco is Aquech islet, high, 
 broad, and steep, but clear to seaward ; and, at a mile and a quarter from 
 the same cape, is another, joined to the land by a bridge, and having a 
 chapel ; behind this the land is high and rugged. Cape Villano is 6| miles 
 from Machichaco. It is high, broad, and precipitous, and midway, be- 
 tween, is a sharp pointed hill, called the Alto of Pleusia, which serves to 
 point out the situation of the two capes. About half a mile westward 
 from Cape Villano is a small low islet, close to the land ; the point of land 
 near the S. W. side of it is less elevated than the coast to the eastward, 
 but equally steep and precipitous. Nearly a mile to the southward from 
 this point, is the entrance of the RIVER op PLEUSIA, open to the N. W., 
 and formed by two rugged points, of a reddish colour, but impeded by a 
 shallow bar, which frequently changes. 
 
 BILBOA. The entrance of the bay of Bilboa lies between point 
 Galea and point Luzuero, its western boundary ; distant from each other 
 three miles, W. by N. and E. by S. When coming from the eastward 
 Bilboa may be easily known by the white appearance of Galea point, 
 and the wide opening of the bay; and these marks, together with the 
 sharp-pointed hills of Luzuero, Serante, and the south peak, will soon 
 point it out to the mariner, from the westward. The red point of St. 
 Ignacio lies half a mile within Galea point ; it has several rocks lying oft' 
 it, one of which appears like a buoy, when seen at low water, and is 
 called the Pilot's rock. Between this and the point and battery of 
 Begona, further on, is the town of Argota, having a small pier. 
 
 The entrance to the river of Bilboa is formed by two piers that run from 
 the bar to the town. On the west side, at a quarter of a mile within the
 
 22 
 
 piers, is the town of PORTUGALETTE off which, is the best anchorage in the 
 harbour; old guns are fixed in the ground, on the quays, to which the 
 cables may be fastened. On the outer bar, off Santurce, which is change- 
 able, there is a depth of about 4 feet, at low water. The chief and other 
 pilots employed on the bar and river reside at Santurce. In winter a 
 heavy sea sets into the bay, which, at times, renders it impossible for the 
 pilots to go off. 
 
 If a vessel, from the offing, be driven in by stress of weather, when the 
 pilot cannot go off, he places himself in one of the batteries to the N. W. 
 of Santurce, and makes signals with a red flag, so as to direct her to star- 
 board or larboard, for the deepest water. If coming in, when the tide 
 does not serve for taking the bar with an unfavourable wind, you may 
 come-to in the bay, midway between the outer points Luzuero and Galea, 
 bringing the latter in a line with Cape Villano, in 16 fathoms, with sandy 
 bottom. There is here sufficient room, in case a heavy on-shore wind 
 should bring home the anchor, or part the cable, to let go a second anchor, 
 before the ship can get ashore. In summer you may lie nearer to the 
 land, in from 10 to 12 fathoms, all the bottom being of sand. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING THE PORT OF BILBOA, OR RIVER NERVIOU, 
 by Mr. Henry Thompson, second Master of H. M. brig Saracen. " The 
 entrance of the river Nerviou is situated in latitude 43 20' N., longitude 
 2 53' W. It is high water on the bar, at full and change, at 3h., p. M., 
 and at Bilboa, at 3h. 20m., p. M. Spring tides rise 13 feet; and the 
 variation of the compass in July, 1836, was 23 W. Vessels bound to 
 this river, in fine weather, will generally find pilots a short distance from 
 the land, as many of the fishermen, living in the vicinity of the river, 
 are pilots." 
 
 " In standing toward the bar, at the entrance of the river, the chief 
 pilot will always be found in attendance, in a boat, which may be known 
 from others by having a red flag flying, which boat is to be kept in a line 
 with the western pier head, as the leading mark over the bar. The bar 
 is sounded daily by this pilot (when the wind and weather will permit), 
 otherwise it cannot be depended upon, in consequence of the sands of which 
 it is composed, frequently shifting. But, in bad weather, when boats can- 
 not go out, on the appearance of any vessel standing into the bay, if the 
 bar is considered passable, a red flag is hoisted on a point of land about 
 half a mile outside Santurce, a small village on the western extremity of 
 the bar ; and, in this case, the chief pilot stations himself on the western 
 pier head, with a red flag in his hand, with which he guides vessels across 
 the bar, waving it to starboard or port, as necessary, (on the flag being 
 waved to starboard, it is meant that the vessel's head is to go to star- 
 boardof course, the helm to port). If the bar is not passable a white 
 flag is hoisted on the same point of land, and kept flying during the time 
 any vessel is seen in the offing. In this case I would recommend, during 
 the winter months, for any vessel to proceed for Santona, a port about 17 
 miles to the westward, and there await for moderate weather. The state 
 of the bar is generally known by the pilots of that port, and the anchorage 
 there is also good." 
 
 " During the summer months, I would recommend vessels to stand off 
 and on, keeping outside the bay, and well to the westward, to avoid being 
 driven on Cape Villano by the N. W. swell, which is a common occurrence 
 when the winds fail. Anchoring in the bay is not recommended under 
 any circumstances, except for a few hours during the day to await a tide, 
 as the riding is very heavy ; and, should a vessel part her cables, it would 
 be almost impossible to work out against the heavy north-west swell. It
 
 23 
 
 is impossible to lay down marks for taking vessels up and down the river, 
 its navigation being very intricate, owing to the irregularity of the shoals." 
 
 " Between Portugalette and Olaveaga there are several muddy flats 
 stretching out from the sides of the river, with only 8 feet at the deepest 
 part, at low water ; and between Olaveaga and Bilboa, there are similar 
 shoals extending the whole way across the river, and are barely covered at 
 low water, spring tides. The river is navigable at high water, spring 
 tides, for vessels drawing 9 feet water, as far as Bilboa ; those drawing 
 12 feet to Olaveaga; those drawing 15 feet may lie at Saroza, San 
 Nicholas, and Portugalette." 
 
 " The general mark for crossing the bar, for boats and small vessels, 
 (say, those drawing 8 feet) is to bring the churches of Portugalette and 
 bestao in one, standing on with this mark until having arrived half way 
 between the point of land, El Campello, (is the one on which the red and 
 white flags are hoisted, to show the state of the bar,) and the village of 
 Santurce ; the western pier, at the entrance of the river, will then be end 
 on, which is the leading mark over the bar ; and, when abreast of the 
 house called Casa de Campo Grande, which stands alone, about one-third 
 the distance from Santurce toward the pier head, haul over for the middle 
 of the river, to avoid a ridge of loose stones, extending a little more than a 
 cable's length from, and in a line with, the western pier head, with only 
 4 feet over it, at low water : there is a similar ridge stretching out, about 
 two cables' length, from the eastern pier head, dry at low water, which 
 will also be avoided by following the above directions. Steer midway 
 between the two piers, until abreast of Portugalette, at which place there 
 is a good anchorage in the middle of the river, as far up as the bridge, 
 called Las Siete Ojos, or the Seven Eyes, it having seven arches." 
 
 " After crossing the bar, and being between the two piers, which form 
 the entrance of the river, (if boats nave not been able to go out) a pilot 
 will be found in readiness to go on board to bring the vessel to an anchor, 
 or, if the wind and tide will permit, to proceed direct up the river. 
 Should the wind prove otherwise, bullocks are provided by the pilots, for 
 the purpose of towing vessels up and down the river, there being a good 
 stone pier, on the left hand side, all the way to Bilboa. The largest 
 vessels the pilots will take over the bar are those not drawing more than 
 15 feet water, but, in this case, it must be with a smooth sea on the bar, 
 and a commanding breeze, at the top of high water, spring tides. The 
 pilots generally dislike taking in such large vessels, as the bar is very 
 dangerous, and cannot always be depended on." 
 
 The town of Santurce is small, lying on the west side of the bay, and 
 has a pier and harbour fit for small craft; from hence to point Scoallo the 
 distance is 3 miles, in a N. W. by N. direction ; the mountain of Serantes lying 
 between, and the land in general being high and rocky. The point, and a 
 sharp topped hill, of Luzuero lies about half a mile further on, in the same 
 direction. Two remarkable mountains, called Corredo and Candina, lie 
 between this and mount Santona, which is distant 14 miles. The coast 
 is likewise indented by several small bays or inlets, only fit for coasting 
 vessels. 
 
 SANTONA. This port is bounded by a high steep mountain of the 
 same name, on the starboard side, and point Rastrellar, also high, black, 
 and rugged, on the opposite. The latter point has several rocks under it, 
 and some shoals on its western and southern sides. A bank, called the 
 Doncel, lies at about one-third over from the hill of Santona, which may be 
 considered as the bar ; it has 2 or 3 fathoms over it at low water. To the 
 westward of this, at the mouth of the harbour, is a sand bank, called El
 
 24 
 
 Pitorro, extending wcstwardly to the length of 3 cables. Between this 
 hank and the hill the channel is only two cables' length in breadth, with 
 a depth of 4^ to 7 fathoms. 
 
 To sail into this port you should keep within a short distance of point 
 Frayle, a strange peaked eminence, being part of Santona hill; and take 
 care to steer clear of Merano shoal, that lies N. E. by E. two cables' 
 length from the point. You may then run along shore, at the same 
 distance, until Carlos battery, on its south point, come in one with the 
 convent of St. Francis de Ano; this is on the west side of the harbour: 
 keep this mark on until you have passed the bar, or until you come near 
 to the Carlos battery, then haul to the S. W. towards the steeple of 
 Cicero, by which the shallows of Carlos battery will be avoided ; but take 
 care not to proceed too far to the S. "W., lest you touch on the Pittoro. 
 You will now see St. Martin's battery, which is on the S. W. side of the 
 hill of Santona, then keep in mid-channel for the town of Santona, and 
 anchor in 6 to 8 fathoms, sand and mud, mooring either E. or W. 
 according to the set of the tides. A vessel may anchor S. S. E. or 
 S. W. by S. from point Frayle, by bringing St. Carlos' castle in one 
 with the church of St. Francis de Ano ; but, in gales from the eastward 
 of north, it is neither safe to run from here into the harbour, or weather 
 Sonavia Point. 
 
 SANTANDER. The course from port Santona to Cape Quego is 
 N. W. by N. This cape is of a red colour, rugged, though not lofty, 
 with a house on it that serves for a watch-tower. N. W. by W. 
 westerly is Cape Ago, and westerly from the latter is Cape Quintres, 
 somewhat higher and having a white appearance. You then pass the 
 capes of Galisano and Langre, and will perceive the island of Santa 
 Marina, which forms the eastern point of the poll of Santander. The 
 western point is named Cape Mayor, moderately high and steep, with 
 a watch tower on its summit; S. S. E. ^ E. If miles from which lies 
 the island of Mouro, having a large rock on its eastern side, and a shoal 
 of only 2 fathoms N. N. W. a cable's length from it. Two channels 
 thus lead to the harbour of Santander, one between the islands of Santa 
 Marina and Mouro, and the other between the latter and Port Point, 
 named the bar, though having not less than 6 fathoms within it, and 
 equally good with the other. Cape Menor lies S. S E. from Cape Mayor, 
 and ends in a low flat point, having a reef of rocks running from it ; 
 and, S. ^ E. 1^ mile is Port Point, generally considered the inner or 
 harbour point. The coast between bends circularly to the westward, 
 forming an open roadstead to wait for the tide serving to enter the 
 harbour, anchoring with Capes Menor and Mayor in a line, in 10 to 12 
 fathoms, sandy bottom. Three batteries are here erected, and another, 
 called the castle of Ano, stands a little from the harbour's point. 
 
 Should it blow from the N. W. or S. W., and a heavy sea arising, it is 
 extremely difficult to gain the harbour; in that case it will be more 
 prudent to drift with the tide for the roadstead of Promonterio, and there 
 wait for a change of wind ; or, with an ebb tide, it may be safer to run for 
 the roadstead of Sardinero, the northern shore of the harbour, from Cerda 
 battery to the point of Promonterio. Should it blow from the N. E. or 
 S. W. you may enter by the channel between the islands of St. Marina 
 and Mouro, or by that between Mouro and point Puerto, as both channels 
 are clear and good. Having passed the point you will see a perforated 
 rock, called La Oradada, which stands at the distance of 3 cables' length 
 to the eastward of it. This islet is clear on its south side, and is to bo 
 left on the starboard side ; but, having passed it, you must have a pilot
 
 25 
 
 for proceeding up the harbour. Here, with a southerly wind, which blows 
 very hard in winter, the anchors frequently come home. High water, on 
 the full and change, at 3h. Spring tides rise 13 feet, neap tides 9 or 10 
 feet, and more when the wind is from the N. W. The stream of ebb is 
 stronger than that of flood, and runs at the rate of 3 miles an hour. Within 
 St. Marina's island a branch of it sets to the S. E. towards the sand to the 
 southward of that island ; this is deserving of notice, because many vessels 
 have suffered from ignorance of the fact. 
 
 About a mile to the westward of Cape Mayor is Cape Lata, which ia 
 rather lower and rocky ; and hence to PORT ST. PEDRO the coast continues 
 rocky, but declines in height : this is a little shallow bay, used by fishing 
 boats in north-easterly winds. An irregular coast trends hence to the 
 watch-tower of St. Juan, and thence to the point of Somocuevas, with 
 many rocks close to the land. The point of Suarces, which is low, may 
 be known from the little island which lies off it. The point and watch- 
 tower of St. Justa lies rather more than a mile to the westward of this 
 island ; and at 2<j miles from the point of St. Justa is that of Calderon. 
 Here the coast is steep and level, and forms a small bight, studded with 
 rocks. From Calderon point the coast trends to the southward of west, 
 nearly 4 miles to the west point of St. Vincente de Luano, on which is a 
 hermitage. Three miles hence, to the westward, is the east point of the 
 opening of Cumillas, high and level on the summit, but perpendicular 
 towards the sea, having a reef before it. At 1^ mile west from this point 
 is the west of Cumillas, on the S. E. side of which is a rocky islet, having, 
 on the land side, a pier for small craft, which lie dry at low water. The 
 eastern point of Cape Hoyhambre lies N. W. f W., two miles from the 
 west point of CumUlas. It presents, to the north, a face of one mile in 
 length, of moderate height, but steep, and of a white colour ; it is bordered 
 with a shoal to the extent of a cable's length outward. 
 
 ST. VINCENTE DE LA BARQUERA. This harbour lies to the southwest- 
 ward of Cape Hoyhambre, and can receive such vessels only as do not 
 draw more than 12 feet water. The isle del Callo marks the west side of 
 the entrance ; and has a small channel within it, but it is shoal. The 
 harbour is too dangerous to be attempted, at any time, without a pilot. 
 Between this harbour and Cape de Mar the coast is variegated, but affords 
 no shelter for a stranger. CAPE DE MAR is of moderate height, perpen- 
 dicular, and free from rocks ; on its top is a hermitage. At 5 miles to the 
 westward is Cape Prieto, having a watch-tower on its summit ; it is of 
 middling height, and surrounded with rocks. The land between the two 
 capes is nearly of the same height, and along shore may be found a large 
 rock under Cape Prieto, the islet Desuracado, and the cove of Carneros. 
 
 THE RIVA DE CELLA lies 7| miles N. W. by W. i W. from Cape de 
 Mar. The harbour is obstructed by a bar of sand, having only 5 feet 
 over it at low water. Off the eastern point lies the Sarrapio reef, on 
 which the sea breaks when there is a swell, although there seems to be a 
 good depth over it. Two miles to the westward of Riva de Cella is the 
 point of Carreros, which is low, and so surrounded with rocks as to require 
 a berth of one mile, at least from vessels when passing. Misiera point, 
 having a battery, is nearly 7 miles from that of Carreros, but there is 
 between them no place of shelter, with the exception of the little cove of 
 Lastries, which has clean and good holding ground. Cape Lastries is about 
 l mile from point Misiera, it is high and abrupt, of a red colour, and has 
 a ledge of rocks without it. About 4 miles N. W. f W. from Cape 
 Lastries is Tazones point, on the east of which is the river Vella Viciosa, 
 capable of receiving vessels drawing 12 feet, but at high water only ; in
 
 26 
 
 the middle of its entrance there is a rock, and none should venture without 
 a pilot. Between Tazones point and Cape St. Lorenzo, an extent of 10 
 miles, there are only a few creeks and rivulets. About 2 miles from Cape 
 St. Lorenzo is St. Catherine's point, with its chapel ; the outer part is 
 steep, and on the slope, inland, stands the town of Gijon. Beyond this 
 point, at rather more than two miles, is Cape Torres, with an inlet at its 
 base, named Orrio. 
 
 GIJON. This bay, or road, lies between St. Catherine's point and 
 Cape Torres, and affords good anchorage in easy weather, but is open to 
 the N. and N. E. Should a large ship, in summer, have occasion to let go 
 an anchor here, it must be with the islet Orrio, off Cape Torres, in a line 
 with the town of Candas, lying 3| miles to the N. W. of it, and in 1 1 
 fathoms, dark sand. Even here, care must be taken to be ready to get 
 under sail, in case the wind should change to blow on shore, which is 
 frequently the case, even in summer, and the sea is then so heavy as to 
 render it almost impossible to get out of the bay. These heavy on-shore 
 winds commonly last two or three days, and that from N. E. is most 
 prevalent. Small vessels may take the pier of Gijon, but they must be 
 conducted by a pilot. On the bar are 9 feet at low water. The vessels 
 within the pier lie dry at low water. 
 
 From Cape Torres to Cape Penas the coast is foul and dangerous. At 
 Luanco is a small cove and pier, only fit for small vessels. Off the point 
 of the same name is a rocky islet, called La Baca de Luanco. Cape Penas, 
 on the north, presents a broad steep head, of nearly one mile in extent. 
 Its summit is level, and it appears of a whitish colour. The foul ground 
 about this cape are very extensive, and large ships should never approach 
 it within the distance of 4 miles. The coast continues foul to the S. W. of 
 Cape Vidio, an extent of 20 miles, and in no part does it afford shelter for 
 a stranger. Cape Busto, which is high and steep, is 9^ miles W. by N. 
 from Cape Vidio ; a ledge of rocks extend from it to the N. W. ; and E. 
 from it, at the distance of seven-tenths of a mile, is Serron islet, in shape 
 like a pyramid, and, therefore, serves as a mark for the cape. Between 
 these capes the coast generally is rugged, and bordered with islets and 
 rocks, some above and many under water. From Cape Busto, westward, 
 the shore continues foul to the river Navia, a distance of nearly 4 leagues. 
 From this river the coast continues very rugged, like that to the eastward, 
 to the islet called Orrio de Tapia. From this islet to Point Rumeles, 
 the eastern point of the harbour of Rivadeo, the bearing and distance are 
 W. N. 3| miles ; in this track are some inaccessible coves, the Pantorgas 
 rocks, and the Moulas shoal. 
 
 RIVADEO. This harbour may be readily found by the mountains of 
 Mondego and St. Marks, which appear to the east ; the first is very high, 
 having on its top some white rocks, which, at a distance, appear like build- 
 ings ; St. Mark's is low and round, having an hermitage upon it. Vessels, 
 drawing 16 to 18 feet water, must run up mid-channel, until Point Cast- 
 rellias be open to the southward of its islets and rocks, whence they make 
 over to the western shore, and anchor opposite to Damian castle, or a little 
 to the southward of it, in 5 fathoms, sandy bottom. As the channel is here 
 narrowed by the bar, which extends to the N. E., they should moor with 
 four anchors, head and stern, as even the south wind, at times, blows here 
 with great violence. 
 
 From the entrance of Rivadeo, at the distance of 20 miles, N. W. N. 
 (by compass) lie the Farallone rocks of St. Cyprian, between which and 
 the shore is a passage of 13 or 14 fathoms, sandy bottom. In the tract of 
 coast between are some small rivers, but they are hardly accessible, even
 
 27 
 
 for small craft, at high water ; before the last of these rivers is Suela islet, 
 which affords shelter in winds from W. N. W. to E. N. E., and sufficient 
 room for a large vessel, in case of necessity, in from 3 to 4 fathoms, sand 
 and good holding ground. From the northernmost Farallone, distant 3^ 
 miles, N. W. f W., lies point Roncadoira ; and midway between is Porti- 
 zuelo river, at the foot of Monsancho mount, which is very sharp on the 
 top, and which, with the islet Anseron, is a good mark for the shore. 
 W. by N. 1^ mile from point Roncadoira is Sainas point; and, at 2 miles 
 W. S. W. W. from the latter, is the point of Faro, appearing beneath a 
 hill of the same name, on which is a watch-tower. 
 
 PORT VI VERO lies between the points of Faro and Socastro ; it is 
 clear and deep, and a ship may tack in it with safety, but it is open to the 
 north. The best anchorage is with the east side of Q.ueimada isle on with 
 the S. E. side of Gaviera isle, and Puntal point in a line with the southern- 
 most houses of Sillero ; here is a depth of 5 fathoms, clayey mud. The 
 ship should lie east and west, that the cables may have an equal strain in 
 southerly winds, which, in summer, blow hard, and also in the heavy sea 
 which frequently sets in from the N. and N. W. It is necessary to weigh 
 the anchors, from time to time, because, if they remain long in the ground, 
 they will not be raised without difficulty; if they be not totally lost. 
 
 INLET OP VARES. From the Point of Socastro, at the distance of two 
 miles, N. | W. is Point Ventosa ; and 2^ miles from the latter, N. by W. 
 \ W., is Cape Vares, which is high and steep. Between is the inlet of 
 Vares, very clean and deep, excepting close to the land. The harbour is 
 open to winds from the N. E., when the sea is very troublesome, but it 
 affords shelter from those in the S. E., S. W., and N. W. quarters. To 
 vessels falling to leeward of Cape Ortegal, in hard weather, this place may 
 afford convenient shelter ; the bottom is of sand, and the ground is excellent 
 for holding. The fishing boats of the town will readily afford assistance, 
 and water and provisions may be obtained here. 
 
 POINT ESTACA is the northernmost point of the Coast of Spain, distant 
 If miles from Cape Vares. At 6f miles W. N. W. f W. from Point 
 Estaca is the Cape of the Aguillons, which is high and steep ; a cluster of 
 islets lie to the northward of it, and leave a narrow channel between them 
 and the land. The bay of Santa Marta, lying between Point Estaca and 
 Aoruillon, affords no place of shelter for shipping. 
 
 CAPE ORTEGAL is high and precipitous, with a shoal lying N. by E. 
 from it, distant half a mile. A good mark for distinguishing it from sea- 
 ward is a watch-tower on the highest land, at a mile and two-thirds from 
 the cape to the southward. At the distance of 7 miles W. ^ S. from Cape 
 Ortegal is Candclaria point, having a watch-tower near it. All the coast 
 between is steep and rugged. Point Pantin, the west point of the little 
 harbour of Cedeira, is 3 miles S. W. f W. from Point Candelaria. A ledge 
 of rocks extends to the northward from Point Pantin ; and Tofino says, 
 that " from the information of the fishermen, a shoal lies N. 22 E. (true) 
 one mile and a half from the point, with only 3 fathoms over it." 
 
 CEDEIRA. This harbour, though small, has good holding ground, but 
 open to the N. W., and adapted only to small vessels. On entering from 
 the north-westward, Point Pantin must be passed at the distance of a cable 
 and a half's length, so as to clear the White rocks. Hence you advance to 
 Serridal point, and along shore to abreast of Solvieras point. Within the 
 latter, anchor with the flag-staff of the castle in a line with Point Pantin ; 
 here there are from 2^ to 3 fathoms, sand. Vessels commonly moor north 
 and south. W. S. W. f W. from Point Pantin, distant 5fo miles, is the 
 Point of Frouseiras ; and 6 miles W. f S. from the latter is Cape Prior,
 
 28 
 
 which is nearly a mile and a quarter in extent, and bordered with rocks on 
 the eastern side, to the distance of 1^ cables. Between the two capes the 
 only remarkable object is Mount Campelo, near the shore, which has a 
 sharp summit, with a watch-tower on it. 
 
 CAPE PRIOR may be well known by a low sandy beach to the eastward, 
 and another to the southward; these appear to join each other, making 
 the cape look like an island ; and it may be here proper to remark, that 
 several rocks lie between Cape Ortegal and Cape Prior, over which the sea 
 breaks with a swell ; the current sets in to the land, and, with light winds, 
 it requires great vigilance to prevent being embayed, or driven on shore ; 
 but large ships, with a good steady breeze, may pass on even within two 
 miles of Cape Ortegal. All along this coast the tides rise about 15 feet, 
 and it is high water about 3 o'clock, on full and change. About one 
 league to the southward of Cape Prior are two large rocks, called Gabeiras, 
 high, steep, and separated from the land, having, it is said, a passage for 
 boats between. Cape Priorino is 2f miles to the southward from the 
 Gabeiras ; it is not so lofty as Cape Prior, but more clear at its base, and 
 has a shoal close to the land on its south side. Behind the cape is Mount 
 Ventosa, having a watch-tower on its summit. From Cape Priorino the 
 coast to the S. E. forms a slender bay to Little Cape Priorino, which has 
 a broad appearance, and is considered a good distinguishing mark for the 
 entrance to Ferrol. 
 
 FERROL. To the southward is Point Segano, high and steep, having 
 upon it a battery and watch-tower. Near its point is a sunken rock, called 
 La Mucla, covered with weeds, and having only one fathom over it at low 
 water. Between this rock and point is a depth of 4| fathoms, and the 
 passage may be used, in case of necessity, by a small vessel. On the north 
 side is Point St. Carlos, which forms the narrow entrance into the harbour : 
 it is only one quarter of a mile in breadth. St. Philip's castle is three- 
 quarters of a mile within that of St. Carlos, on the same side ; its walls 
 are washed by the sea. The south side of the Narrows is protected by the 
 castle of St. Martin, situate on a point which reduces the channel here to 
 one-fifth of a mile. At half a mile within this is the castle of Palmas, and 
 next is Point Rodondo, where the coast forms an inlet called Bano cove. 
 
 Skips bound in, with an adverse wind, if it be not very strong, may, by 
 a few tacks, gain the bay of Carino, between Little Cape Priorino and St. 
 Carlos point. Here they may come-to, in from 14 to 8 fathoms, sand, and 
 be sheltered from winds at N. W., N., and N. E. Be ready, however, to 
 take advantage of the first breeze from 8. W. to gain the harbour, as the 
 winds in this direction are the most dangerous hereabout. Should the 
 wind prevent your turning into this bay, the only resource is to run for 
 Corunna, and there await more favourable winds, &c. 
 
 The winds for entering the harbour are those from between S. W. by W. 
 to N., by compass. With these you may pass to the southward of Cape 
 Priorino, at the distance of half a mile, or less, if required. Hence run up 
 in mid-channel, keeping over rather to the north or south shore, according 
 to the wind, and observing that, from St. Philip's castle, a small ledge of 
 sunken rocks extends about 30 fathoms to the southward, over whicli 
 there is, at low water, only 2 and 2^ fathoms ; and, from Palmas castle 
 there is a similar one, stretching out to about the same distance. From 
 Point Redonda a reef also extends about 40 fathoms to the N. E., with 
 I to 2^ fathoms over it ; and there is a sunken rock just without Bispou 
 point. With the wind large there will be found no difficulty in keeping 
 clear of these dangers. Having passed the Narrows, you may come to an 
 anchor wherever most convenient. It is usual to moor N. E. and S. W.,
 
 29 
 
 so that with the wind at S. W. you first let go the anchor to the larboard, 
 or the contrary, according to circumstances. There is rocky ground about 
 the length of a boat, lying directly in the fairway between the Mole of 
 Ferrol and Seixo point, on the opposite side. A leading mark to clear 
 them on the south, is Bispon point in a line with the bottom of St. 
 Philip's bay. 
 
 With equinoctial gales the tides run in strong, at which times it is 
 always advisable to go in or come out of the harbour, one hour before 
 either high or low water, that you may head the current; this is more 
 requisite when many ships are passing, but otherwise you may wait 
 until the turn of tide. In these gales the tides rise nearly 15 feet, being 
 nearly 2 feet more than they do at ordinary spring tides, S. S. E. f E. 
 from Little Cape Priorino is Point Coitelada, and S. S. W. at the distance 
 of 3 miles from the same cape is La Marola Rock. 
 
 Between these points forms the entrance of the bays of Ares and 
 Betanzos, which presents nothing remarkable that may not be understood 
 on reference to the chart. The coasts, in general, are rocky and precipitous. 
 Seixo Blanco Point, on the N. E. side of the bay of Corunna, is high and 
 steep, and is visible at a great distance, appearing like a roadway down to 
 the water. The coast, eastward, hence to Torella Point, is equally high and 
 steep. All vessels approaching the coast hereabout must be very cautious 
 in running for shelter into the bays of Ares and Betanzos, being entirely 
 open to the winds and sea ; and it is to be remembered that south winds are 
 here extremely dangerous. 
 
 CORUNNA. The tower of Hercules, or light-house of Corunna, bears 
 S. W. | W., 5;| miles from Cape Priorino. The light, having reflectors on 
 the opposite sides of a circle, is revolving, and so contrived that the inter- 
 vals of light and shade are of equal duration. It may be seen at 8 leagues 
 off. At nearly three-quarters of a mile, to the eastward of the town, is 
 Pradeiras Point, forming the N. W. point of the bay of Corunna, or the 
 Groyne. There is a small battery on it, and a reef extends from it to a 
 short distance. The castle of St. Antonio, off Corunna Point, at a mile 
 and a quarter to the southward of Point Pradeiras, stands on a rock de- 
 tached from the shore, and forms the N. E. point of the harbour. Between 
 the point and castle are several large rocks above water, and the ground on 
 the south side of the castle is likewise foul. The most dangerous spot in 
 the harbour is that to the eastward of the town of Corunna. 
 
 On the eastern side of the bay is the point of Mount Mera, with a battery, 
 at about two-thirds of its height from the water. At the bottom of the 
 bay, on the same side, is the isle and castle of Santa Cruz. In the small 
 bay to the S. E. from Mera Point, there is good ground for anchorage but 
 it should be used only when it is not possible to enter the harbours of 
 Ferrol and Corunna, because a heavy sea is driven into it with a wind from 
 N. W. or north. On the Tonina bank, which lies off it, there are 1 fathoms 
 at low water, yet the sea breaks on it during a swell. On the western 
 side of the bay is the castle of St. Diego, above half a mile to the southward 
 of the castle of St. Antonio ; these points form the entrance of the harbour 
 of Corunna. About a cable's length to the northward of the castle of St. 
 Diego, is a small shoal of only one fathom at low water ; and at N. by W. 
 from the same castle, and S. W. by W. from that of St. Antonio, is another 
 shoal of 3 fathoms. On the Basuril and Cabanes banks the sea breaks 
 during a swell, notwithstanding the depth of water upon them ; so that it 
 is necessary to be attentive when passing between them and the land. 
 
 IN ADVANCING FROM SEA, IN EASY WEATHER AND FAIR WIND, from 
 
 the N. E. or N. W. quarters, you may steer for the points of Seixo Blanco
 
 30 
 
 and Mount Mera, until you observe the castle of St. Diego come by that 
 of St. Antonio, taking care to avoid the rocks on the western side, steer 
 on for Diego, pass Antonio, and, when between these castles, choose your 
 anchorage. If your ship be large, bring St. Antonio N. E. by E., and an- 
 chor in 6 or 7 fathoms, oaze and mud ; a smaller vessel may stand further 
 in, having St. Antonio E. N. E., or E. by N., or even more advanced ; 
 always taking care not to anchor in those parts encumbered with the sea 
 weed, for, with heavy gales, the anchor will not hold. It is usual to moor 
 north and south. 
 
 IN ATTEMPTING TflE HARBOUR DURING A GALE FROM THE NORTHWARD 
 
 OR N. W., the passage in is between the Basuril bank and the western 
 shore, having the Tower of Hercules to the S. W., and at such a distance 
 that you can see its base. Hence you pass Ravaleira Point, and the rocks 
 which lie off it, which may be passed at the distance of two cables' length. 
 Now steer S. E. with the hill and battery of Mera ahead, until St. Diego 
 castle, near that of St. Antonio, be brought on, when you run S. W. and en- 
 ter the harbour, leaving the last mentioned castle at the distance of a cable's 
 length, then proceed as before directed. But if you are desirous of running 
 between the Jacentcs bank and Seixo Blanco Point, you must stand toward 
 the mouth of Ferrol harbour, until Cape Priorino bears N. N. E., then bring 
 Point Segans in one with St. Christoval's chapel, (which is in the bay of 
 Carino,) and steer on until the castles of St. Diego and Antonio are in a 
 line, and stand on thus until Seixo Blanco Point bears E. S. E., from thence 
 southward, until the battery of Mera bears E. N. E., then attend to the 
 directions given before. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS : In making for the harbours of Ferrol or Corunna, 
 you ought to be careful to keep off the land at night, for the currents may 
 drift you into danger ; perhaps you cannot do better than pass your night 
 in the neighbourhood, or to the westward of Cisargas islands, standing off 
 and on, as occasion may require, for lying-to may be dangerous, and, if the 
 wind be from the S. "W., you will find a current setting strongly towards 
 Cape Ortegal. Be careful to provide against being driven to leeward of 
 Ferrol, for, with a large ship, no port on this part of the coast can ensure 
 safety. 
 
 When blowing from the N. E. you may run within two miles of Cape 
 Prior, and thence steer for Priorino ; then, if the gale be not too powerful, 
 you may run for Carina or Corunna. Some dependence may also be placed 
 on your soundings, for, from the regularity of them, and the noise of the 
 sea dashing against the shore, you may, in thick and dark weather, judge 
 by them your distance from the land. 
 
 THE WIND, on the N. W. coast of Spain, is, in the summer season, most 
 prevalent from the north-eastward. On the coast of Portugal the winds 
 are, generally, from the northward, during two-thirds of the year ; and, 
 at Lisbon, it has been found that the wind varies, at times, from that 
 without the harbour ; thus, when the wind in the Tagus is from S. E. or 
 S. E. by S., that without is frequently no better than S. by E. or S. 
 This difference, however, most commonly occurs in the winter season. 
 
 CAPE ST. ADRIAN lies W. N. W. ^ W. 6^ leagues from Corunna light- 
 house ; off the cape lie the Cisargas islands, bearing from Cape Prior nearly 
 W., and from Cape Ortegal W. f S., distant 50 miles. The shore between 
 these capes bends in to the southward, and has the mountain of Penaboa 
 about 1^ mile from Hercules' tower, near which is Port Santa Cruz, fit 
 only for fishing craft. Three miles further is Mount Pedro, with a sandy 
 beach on each side ; and 6 miles further is Cay on, another small harbour. 
 The low flat shore of Baldayo then runs a considerable way ; and about
 
 31 
 
 5 miles from Cayon is a rocky island, close in to the shore 1 , to the north- 
 ward of which runs a bank of rocks, above two miles out ; at low water 
 seven of them are visible, but, at high water, only the middle one is to be 
 seen. Between these rocks and the land is a passage, half a mile wide, so 
 that vessels may run through, if necessary, in safety, there being 14 and 
 15 fathoms within it. It has been asserted that a shoal lies about this 
 part, with only 5 fathoms over it, although close to it are 4*0 fathoms, and 
 that by keeping the Tower of Hercules open of the land, you will always 
 avoid it. We do not believe any such sJtoal exists, but mention it merely on 
 the authority of the Spanish pilots ; there can, however, be no harm in 
 steering so as to shun it. 
 
 Proceeding towards Cape Adrian, you meet the small harbour of Mai- 
 pica, fit only for small craft. Here rises up mount Boa, the foot of which 
 extends to Cape Adrian. From off this cape several islands, rocks, and 
 shoals extend two miles to the northward. Through these islands are 
 several channels, with from 6 to 10 fathoms water ; the ground wholly 
 rocky and bad. A vessel may also, if urged by necessity to do so, pass 
 between these rocks and Cape Adrian, with W. or N. W. winds ; or, if 
 coming from the eastward, with E. or S. E. winds. The current with 
 flood is strong, and sets to the eastward. 
 
 Three miles and a half from hence is Point Nerija, of moderate height, 
 and having many rocks running from it ; behind which, to the eastward, is 
 the harbour of Barizo, frequented by coasting vessels : in entering you 
 should keep to the western shore, which is clean, but far up the water 
 becomes shallow. From Point Nerija the shore bends inward, then runs 
 out to Point Roncudo, round which are several rocks and shoals, which, by 
 giving a berth to, may be easily avoided. Point Roncudo is the northern 
 point of the bays of Corme and Laxe, on the N. N. W. and W. shores of 
 which the water is deep enough for most vessels, but the bottom is rocky. 
 W. by N. from Roncudo point lies a sunken rock, with not more than 
 3 fathoms over it at low water. Several rivers, with excellent water, fall 
 into the bays of Corme and Laxe, and a whole squadron may readily be 
 supplied. 
 
 THE POINT OP LAXE, which may be called the S. "W. point of the bays 
 of Corme and Laxe, is above 2 5 miles to the S. W. \ W. from Point 
 Roncudo, appears high, but is low at the extremity, and a reef stretches 
 from it to the N. W. about two cables' length. A shoal also extends from 
 it E. N. E. to half that distance. Point Catasol, at a mile to the south- 
 westward from Point Laxe, is high and of a sandy colour, with large rocks 
 and shoals at its base. Ten miles from Laxe is Valea de Tosta, very low, 
 and encircled with rocks, although, behind the point, several high moun- 
 tains rise up with rugged peaked tops. At a mile from Valea de Tosta is 
 Cape Villano, not very high, but perpendicular towards the sea. Within 
 it, at a short distance, is a sharp peak, of a red appearance, resembling a 
 high tower. N. N. W. from the cape, about 1^ cable's length, is the 
 Bufardo shoal, small, but peaked at top, the water breaking over it, 
 though all around is deep water. 
 
 To the southward of Cape Villano is the bay Camarinas, obstructed 
 by rocks, and frequented only by the neighbouring coasters. Off the en- 
 trance lie the rocky shoal named the Quebrantes, and the depths over it 
 are from 7$ to 3 fathoms, except at its northern end, where, at low water, 
 it appears above the surface, in shape like a buoy. This rock bears from 
 Cape Villano W. S. W. one mile and a quarter ; and, at W. N. W. from 
 it, about half a league, is another shoal, over which, with gales from the 
 eastward, but not less than G fathoms has been found upon it.
 
 32 
 
 BUYTRE POINT, two miles to the south-westward from Camarinas bay, 
 is high and steep ; near it are two large rocks above water. CAPE TOR- 
 IANO, which lies 5 miles further, in the same direction, making a sharp and 
 steep projection into the sea; it is not very high, and, when seen from 
 between E. N. E. and W. S. W., it resembles the awning of a galley. At 
 a distance it is not always distinguishable from the high land at the back 
 of it. At two cables' length W. N. W. from the point of the cape, is a 
 small sunken rock, which breaks with a little swell. The NAVE' OF 
 FINISTERRE, a high mountain so named, stands at the distance of 5| miles 
 to the S. S. W. from Cape Toriano. Its summit is flat, and, at about one- 
 third of its height from the sea, there appears to be a short point with 
 hummocks on it, and having at its base a small but high island. In the 
 bay formed between Cape Toriano and the Nave of Finisterre, vessels may 
 safely anchor during north-easterly and easterly winds, off a fresh water 
 rivulet, in from 6 to 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, but not in deeper water, as 
 there the bottom is rocky. Care must also be taken not to advance too 
 near the north shore, as it also is foul. 
 
 CAPE FINISTERRE is a remarkable and well-known headland, 
 lying in latitude 42 56' 30" N., and longitude 9 16' 15" W. It 'is 
 neither so high nor so flat as the nave ; but is steep, uneven, and the 
 landing is inconvenient. Between the cape and the nave is a kind of 
 roadstead, where the land is low; by this the cape may be readily recog- 
 nised, for there are no appearances like it on this part of the coast. To 
 the northward of the point of Cape Finisterre lies the little island Sentolo ; 
 and, at 3 cables' length S. S. W. (South) from the cape is a sunken rock, 
 about the size of a man-of-war's boat, called Turdeyro, which has over it 
 only 2^ fathoms of water. In advancing from the S. W. towards this 
 rock, Mount Lizaro will be seen to the eastward, and may be known, not 
 merely from its height, but from its singular formation, as its summit 
 consists of an assemblage of small pinnacles, resembling the teeth of a saw. 
 
 Within Cape Finisterre, the land, for more than half a league to the 
 N. E., is high and precipitous, Here stands the town, with a pier an- 
 nexed to it, chiefly for the use of fishermen. To the eastward of the 
 town there is good anchorage and shelter during N. E., North, and N. W. 
 winds, in from 12 to 24 fathoms. In the summer, when the north-easters 
 are of long continuance, this place is much frequented ; but so soon as the 
 wind appears to be getting round to the S. E. or S. W. it is necessary to 
 put off to sea. E. S. E., 4^ miles from Cape Finisterre, is a large cluster 
 of islets and rocks, named the GRAND LOBEIRA ; at half a cable's length, 
 on all sides, the ground is clear and the water deep. The LITTLE LOBEIRA 
 lies S. by E. one mile from the former; its rocks are of all sizes, and small 
 fishing vessels, at times, pass among them at high water. About this 
 cluster the ground is foul, and a reef extends from it to the shore, a dis- 
 tance of one mile and a quarter to the S. E. 
 
 THE BAY OF CORCUBION, on the east of Cape Finisterre, has, in its 
 N. E. corner, an inlet, more than 2 miles in length, which affords excelleir 
 shelter from northerly winds. This is the HAVEN OP CORCUBION, having 
 a regular shoaling of from 13 to 2 fathoms, the ground of sand and mud. 
 There are several clusters of rocks without the mouth of this haven, but 
 they may be seen, and therefore easily avoided. In sailing for this place, 
 from off Cape Finisterre, a course E. by S. 5 5 miles, will lead clear of the 
 Great Lobeira, and a N. by E. course leads thence directly into the mid- 
 way of the harbour. This harbour should not be attempted without a 
 favourable wind. 
 
 THE MINARSOS ROCKS, encircled with shoals, lies S. by E. f E. from
 
 33 
 
 Cape Finisterre, distant 7^ miles. To the westward of these rocks, distant 
 1| mile, is Point Remedios, over which may be seen a little conical hill; 
 and, at one quarter of a mile to the eastward of the latter is another hill, 
 of the same shape, but larger ; the point is low, and a ledge of rocks ex- 
 tends in front of it. Duyo shoal lies about 3 miles to the northward of 
 Point Remedios ; it is rocky, of small extent, and has over it a depth of 
 about 2^ fathoms. To the extent of 5 miles, southward of Point Remedies, 
 the edge of the shore is low and lined with rocks, but the interior is elevated 
 to a considerable height. 
 
 MOUNT LOIRO is high, round, and separated into two points or peaks, 
 which, at a distance, appear like an island ; on the southern and highest 
 peak is a watch-tower ; this point is easily knowu, and forms the north 
 point of the inlet or bay of Muros. N. W. ^ W., 5^ miles from Mount 
 Loiro, are the Meixido shoals, very dangerous, but the water constantly 
 breaking over them renders their situation distinct and visible ; there is a 
 good passage between them and the shore, one league wide ; but, if running 
 on the outer side of the shoal, bring the nave of Cape Finisterre open of 
 the cape ; you will then be close to the westward of the shoal. Nearly 3 
 miles, W. N. | W., from Mount Loiro is a cluster of rocks, called the 
 Bruhios, so low that the sea frequently dashes over them. Mount Loiro 
 itself has some rocks off its point, called the Leixones ; between them and 
 the shore is said to be a narrow channel, but too dangerous to be attempted 
 without a pilot. 
 
 INLET, OR BAY OP MUROS, may readily be known by the appearance of 
 Mount Loiro ; but, if this hill should not be visible, you will, to the north- 
 ward, perceive Cape Finisterre or Mount Lizaro, or, to the southward, the 
 hill of Curota, the highest of any at this part. To enter this bay, with 
 the wind from the northward, you must run under Mount Loiro, leaving 
 the Leixones rocks on the larboard side, and giving a good berth to a reef 
 that stretches from a point above it. Should the wind not allow to stand 
 directly towards Muros, you may, with a tack or two, get abreast of the 
 town, and there anchor in 8 or 10 fathoms, muddy bottom, mooring north 
 and south ; as the on-shore wind, although from the eastward, raises a 
 heavy sea, and has occasioned the loss of many vessels. From the Punta 
 de Castro and the Atalaya of Son, on the eastern side, are two dangerous 
 ledges ; the latter is a point of moderate height, and precipitous, having a 
 chapel on its summit. Close to it, on the east side, is the town of Son, 
 with a pier for the protection of fishing barques, &c. S. W. by W. from 
 Point Castro lie the rocks of Besonas, and near them is a depth of 5 
 fathoms, increasing to 9 and 11 fathoms, on the eastern side. To the 
 eastward of Cape Corrobedo is Tombo Mayor, a hill of moderate height ; 
 and to the S. W. of it is the Little Tombo, which is neither so high 
 nor so pointed. Cape Corrobedo is low and encircled with rocks; 
 W. S. W". from it, distant 3 miles, is a reef extending N. N. W. and 
 S. S. E. ; on the N. E. side of the latter is a small shoal ; on both the 
 sea always breaks when there is a swell. The Preceiros rocks, with 
 breakers around them, lie at the distance of one league, S. by W. ^ W., 
 from Cape Corrobedo. 
 
 SALVORA ISLAND, high in the middle, but very low at each end, is at 
 the entrance of Arosa bay. It is about 1^ mile in length, and appears of 
 a reddish colour, having a chain of rocks extending from it to the northern 
 shore. On the East and N. E. sides of the island are several large rocks, 
 and off the south end is one, at the distance of 1| cable's length, seldom 
 seen above water, with breakers around it. Between Cape Corrobedo and 
 Salvora, at 3| miles to the S. S. E. of the former is the point and small
 
 34 
 
 town of Carreyra ; and W. S. W. 1 1 mile from Point Carreyra is a steep 
 islet, with a number of other rocks between it and the point. 
 
 THE BAY OF AROSA, within the isle Salvora, is extensive, and 
 affords anchorage, but its shores are generally shoal and rocky, and so many 
 reefs line the coast, as well as impede the navigation, that it has been 
 described as too rocky and dangerous to be attempted by any who are not 
 acquainted with it ; to which has been added, that even small vessels 
 fishing here have been frequently lost. It, however, appears from the 
 chart of Tofino, that the passage into the bay, on the east of the 
 island Salvora, is two miles in breadth, and has a depth of 22 to 34 
 fathoms, which depth continues 5 miles to the N. E., so that, in case of 
 emergency, a vessel may safely take the harbour, and lie sheltered therein, 
 with the eastern end of Salvora bearing S. W. ^ \V. 5 miles, and the 
 elevated church of Santa Eugenia N. W. by W. 3^ miles ; depths 25 and 
 26 fathoms. At the island of Arosa, in the middle of this bay, the time of 
 high water, on the full and change, is 3h. 45m. The tide flows 5, and 
 ebbs 7 hours. 
 
 From the south end of Salvora the ISLAND ONS lies 5 miles S. S. E. E. 
 It is nearly 3 miles in length from N. E. to S. W., and is of moderate 
 height, level on the top, but rugged on the western side, and bordered 
 with rocks ; at the south end of Ons is an islet, named Onza, having a 
 small beach on its eastern side, but otherwise rocky and foul. At about 
 three-quarters of a mile W. S. W. from Onza is a rocky shoal of 5 fathoms, 
 over which the sea breaks in rough weather. A large rock, called 
 SENTOLO, lies close to the island Ons ; and, nearly in mid-channel, between 
 this and the main, is the Golferass shoal ; and a reef also extends from the 
 coast near Lanzado, on the east. Vessels, therefore, which proceed for 
 Pontevedra, to the northward of Ons, have to pass either between the latter 
 reef and Golferass shoal, or between the Golferass shoal and the island. 
 The latter channel is the safest, as you may pass within a stone's throw of 
 the Sentolo; but this is to be attempted with a leading wind only. In 
 easy weather many vessels run through these channels, as the depths are 
 from 9 to 6 fathoms, rocky ground ; but, with a swell, both are dangerous, 
 as the sea breaks all over them. 
 
 PONTEVEDRA. This harbour is formed by Cape Udra, on the 
 south, and Point Cabicastro, on the north. Between these points is a fair 
 channel, two miles in breadth, though there are in general rocks off the 
 projecting points on both sides of the harbour. The course in is E. S. E. 
 until the isle Tamba, which will be seen at the upper part of the haven, 
 appears midway between the two coasts, whence the course up to the 
 south end of that island will be E. by N. 4 miles. Within the isle of 
 Tamba is the road or anchorage of Pontevedra, the river being dry at low 
 water; its depths are from 8 to 2 fathoms, bottom of mud. Pontevedra 
 is one of the principle towns of Galicia ; it is two miles up the river, and, 
 at the entrance of it, even coasters must wait for the flow of the tide to 
 carry them up to the town. High water, full and change, at 4h. Om. 
 
 From Point Udra the coast runs up towards the bay of Aldan, having a 
 stream of excellent water at the town of that name, in the bottom of the 
 bay. But the east side of this place is studded with rocks and shoals so 
 much, that no vessel should even venture to bring Udra point as far as 
 N. N. E. The HARBOUR OF ALDAN is of good depth, and clean sandy 
 bottom, and can accommodate ships of every description ; at its entrance 
 are from 15 to 17 fathoms water, decreasing as you advance into it. It is 
 advisable to moor E. N. E. and W. S. W., because the winds from the 
 N. N. W. are dangerous, and bring in a swell of the sea. To sail into this
 
 35 
 
 bay you should have a leading wind, and then keep mid-channel, standing 
 on for Point Con ; leaving Bouteye to the starboard, run up to the low 
 shore of Arnela, within two cables' length of which is the anchorage. 
 Point Cousa is the southern point of the harbour of Aldan ; it is high and 
 steep, having a shoal to the northward. Point Cabicastro is distant from 
 Point Udra 2^ miles, and Point Udra from Point Cousa 2^ miles. Three 
 miles and a half further is the point of the entrance to Vigo. 
 
 VIGO. Oft' the entrance of this inlet are the Bayona Isles, which are 
 uninhabited, high, and uneven on the summit, very steep on the west side, 
 but less so on the east. The north point of the northern isle is called 
 Point Caballo ; and off it, at the distance of a quarter of a mile N. N. W., 
 is the Roncosa shoal, which appears, at low water, above the surface. At 
 half a league X., 5 W. (by compass) from Point Caballo, is the Biduidos 
 shoal, having 85 fathoms over it, at low water, steep-to on the north side, 
 and having on the south from 6 to 7 fathoms, increasing to 15 at a short 
 distance. The S. E. end of the southern isle is called Cape Vicos ; and, 
 from it W. S. W., at two-thirds of a mile, is Boiero islet, which, in a heavy 
 sea, is washed over by the waves. This islet is surrounded by smaller 
 rocks. S. S. "W. from Cape Vicos, distant 4| miles, is Cape Silleiro. The 
 channel between is called the SOUTHERN PASS OP VIGO. Cape Silleiro is 
 high and rugged ; at its base is a low point, terminating in a ledge of rocks, 
 that extends a quarter of a mile to the N. N. W. ; part of this ledge may be 
 seen at low water, but during a swell, the sea breaks over it. 
 
 VIGO BAY is entirely enclosed with high mountainous land ; but its 
 most remarkable object, at a distance, is a sharp pointed hill, on the south 
 side, having on it the chapel of N. S. de Olva, which may be seen at a 
 great distance, and to those bound hither a knowledge of it is of great 
 importance. Within the South Pass of Vigo, the first point on the East 
 is Cape Estaya, which is black, having a reef stretching from it to the 
 distance of two cables' length to the N. N. W. To the north-eastward of 
 the cape is the little island Toralla, equal to the point in height, and at a 
 distance appears to be a part of it. Within Cape Estaya, 2^ miles, is Cape 
 de Mar, which is low, and of a sandy colour, projecting considerably into 
 the sea, and constitutes a principal mark for leading into the harbour. 
 Without it, to the distance of two cables' length, a reef extends, part of 
 which is visible at low water, but the whole is covered with a flood, and 
 the sea, with a swell, breaks over it. Opposite to Cape de Mar, on the 
 north side, is Borneyra point ; low at the extremity, but rising, northward, 
 to a considerable height ; its reefs, with rocks above water, extend out to 
 nearly half a mile. The town of Vigo is three miles above Cape de Mar. 
 It has many fishing barques and coasters, but little other trade. 
 
 If you are desirotts of reaching Vigo by the northern passage, with a 
 favourable wind, steer under the south shore of Onza Island, within the 
 distance of 3 miles; then stand to the eastward, until you have Monte 
 Ferro quite open to the east of Point Caballo, (the north end of the 
 Bayona Isles) with the hill of N. S. de Alva quite hidden by Cape del 
 Hombre, when you will be clear of the Biduidos shoal, and may round 
 Point Subrido, giving the land a berth of at least a cable's length ; next 
 steer for Cape de Mar, until you gain the middle of the bay, whence you 
 make for the town of Vigo. Care must, however, be taken not to bring 
 Points Subrido and Caballo in one, until the church of Cangas, on the 
 north coast, be open, when you clear the reefs of Borneyra. In case of a 
 change of wind, be cautious not to approach either shore nearer than in 8 
 fathoms. Without the reefs, the ground of the bay is, in general, of mud 
 and sand.
 
 36 
 
 To sail into Vigo Bay ly the southern passage. You should bring Cape 
 Mar (known by its sandy colour) in a line with the chapel of Guidance, to 
 the north-eastward of Vigo. This mark will lead through the mid-channel, 
 32 to 37 fathoms, until Monte Ferro bears S. S. W., thence steer more 
 northerly, for the channel between the reefs of Borneyra and those of 
 Cape de Mar; taking care, as before directed, not to bring Subrido and 
 Caballo points in one, until the church of Cangas be open. Hence you 
 proceed to the town. The beach of Vigo is clean, and there is a good 
 depth before it, wherein is the usual anchorage, in from 13 to 8 fathoms, 
 mud. It is usual to moor with the best anchor to the north and the 
 other south ; a ship will lie thus well sheltered from the sea on the west 
 by the Bayona Isles. It is, however, said that off the village of Seis, about 
 two miles higher, they may be safer ; as they here make fast a cable on 
 shore, and carry out an anchor to the northward, when lying in 6 fathoms. 
 To the eastward of Randa point, which is two mUes above the road of Seis, 
 many vessels may anchor, in from 15 to 6 fathoms, bottom of mud, in 
 safety from all winds; and, above this part, vessels coming in without 
 anchors or cables, may run aground anywhere on the mud, until necessaries 
 can be procured, when they may be lightened and come off safely. 
 
 THE HARBOUR OF BAYONA lies on the southern side of Vigo bay, and 
 behind the isles of Estella ; it is small, and filled with shoals. You will 
 find shelter to the S. E. of Point Tenaza. This place should not be 
 attempted without a pilot. From Point Tenaza the coast runs southerly 
 to Cape Silleiro, all steep-to and foul ; the cape is high and rugged, from 
 it runs out a ledge of rocks N. N. W., a quarter of a mile, which the sea 
 breaks over. To the eastward, on an eminence, is the chapel of N. S. de 
 Cela. From the breakers of Cape Silleiro, the coast runs S. by "W. 4 W. 
 to Point Montador, which has some rocks before it ; and to the southward 
 is the town of Oyo and a battery ; three leagues further is the hill of La 
 Guardia, having a small town and creek at its foot, used chiefly by fisher- 
 men. To the S. S. W. the land is lower, until you reach the sugar-loaf 
 hill of St. Rego, having two peaks, on the highest of which is the chapel of 
 St. Tecla, which serves to point out the situation of the RIVER MINHO, the 
 boundary of the kingdoms of Spain and Portugal. 
 
 THE COAST OF PORTUGAL. From Mount Tecla to Cape Viana, 
 the coast runs S. W. about 3 leagues ; and is of moderate height, but rises 
 behind to a range of mountains, higher than those to the northward, and 
 visible 16 or 18 leagues off, forming a good object to know this part by, 
 when coming from sea. Cape Viana is the north point of the river Lima, 
 Cape Nivos being its southern point. The town has a white appearance, 
 and stands on the north side of the river. From Cape Viana a reef runs 
 out southerly. When about to anchor, bring the town to bear E. N. E. ; 
 but, to enter the river, you should have a pilot, for the bar is both shallow 
 and dangerous. Here a low shore begins, extending southerly a full 
 league ; it then becomes somewhat higher and even, but lined within by 
 ranges of hills, as far as Villa del Conde. Here some white buildings 
 mark the entrance to the river, where the town stands. Within this 
 space are the towns of Espozente and Font ; between which runs a small 
 river, with about 6 or 7 feet water. Opposite the town of Font are two 
 ledges of rocks, running out 1^ mile, even with the water's edge, called 
 Caballos; come not closer to the shore, in passing, than 14 fathoms; 
 but if to the southward of them, you may lessen your water to 9 and 8 
 fathoms. 
 
 VILLA DEL CONDE is a bar haven, and has several rocks scattered about 
 its entrance ; but ships may sail among them on every side : the narrowest
 
 37 
 
 channel is on the northern side, having 5 and G fathoms water. Further 
 in is a bank, crossing the haven, with only 2 fathoms upon it at high 
 water ; but within this bar the haven is 3 and 4 fathoms deep ; the north 
 side is filled with rocks under water ; but on the southern side are 5 and 
 6 fathoms, and round the mouth of the river are 9 and 10 fathoms. A 
 pilot will always be found necessary for this haven. Steering south you 
 will perceive the great rocks, called Leixones, between which and the 
 main is a passage with 6 and 7 fathoms ; and about half a league S. W. of 
 these rocks, lies a rock under water, named Filgueira. You will then 
 distinguish, at about a league's distance from the Leixones, fort Queyo, 
 standing upon the northern entrance of the river Douro, upon the north 
 shore of which is the town of Oporto. 
 
 OPORTO. The mouth of the Douro, or river of Oporto, lies 4^ leagues 
 to the southward of Villa del Conde. The town of Oporto stands high, 
 having a black steeple near its centre ; and as you get near the land, the 
 tower of John de Foz will be seen, near the mouth of the river ; also, the 
 chapel of No. Sa. de la Luz, and near it a light-house, from which is ex- 
 hibited a fixed light. On the north point of the entrance is the castle of 
 St. Joao de Foz, from which extends a ledge of rocks to the S. W., some 
 always above water. Without these is another ledge, Filgueira, always 
 visible, and to be left on the larboard hand, when entering the river. 
 The south point of the entrance, Cabadelo, is a low sandy point. Those 
 advancing should previously ascertain their latitude, and know that 
 with south-westerly and north-westerly winds, a heavy sea sets in along 
 the coast. 
 
 THE BAR OP THE DOURO is liable to considerable change, occasioned by 
 the sudden swellings of the river, termed freshes^ and from the heavy 
 westerly gales to which it is exposed. The freshes most frequently take 
 place in the spring of the year, and proceed from the melting of the snow 
 on the mountains of Spain. The rise of the water in the river, at these 
 times, is frequently as much as 40 feet ; and the rapidity of the stream is 
 so great, as to break vessels adrift from their moorings, and occasion their 
 total loss, it being impossible to afford them the smallest assistance. As 
 no dependance can be placed on the anchors, in these times of danger, 
 precautions are generally taken by the masters of vessels, to secure the 
 end of a cable to trees on the bank of the river ; or to stone pillars, which 
 have been provided for the purpose. They have ample time for prepara- 
 tion, as the approach of one of those freshes is communicated from the 
 interior, several days before its arrival ; during which time the river 
 gradually swells and attains its greatest height. The ordinary rise of 
 neap tides is from 6 to 8 feet, and that of springs from 10 to 12 feet. 
 
 The bar being liable to alterations, &c., as before mentioned, renders it 
 absolutely necessary to employ a pilot. The pilots are generally fishermen 
 of the port, who are always ready to go off, when a vessel comes in sight ; 
 unless the weather prevents their getting out, or if it be so thick that they 
 cannot discern the marks, the land being low and level. You first enter 
 with the chapel of St. Catherine in a line with that of St. Miguel, or 
 St. Michael, which leads over the bar ; and thence proceed according to 
 circumstances. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON THE BAR AND HARBOUR OP OPORTO, AT THE 
 ENTRANCE OF THE RIVER DOURO. Nautical Magazine, vol. 1, page 507. 
 " The first precaution to be observed, by vessels bound to Oporto, is to be 
 certain of their latitude, as their is a great sameness in the appearance of 
 the land, and the towns to the northward of Oporto are seen at a great 
 distance. OPORTO may be known, with the assistance of the latitude, by
 
 38 
 
 its being situated about three miles inland, and partly built on a small 
 eminence, with the black steeple of Torre dos Clerigos in the middle, and 
 Foz before it, on the sea shore. No vessel should attempt the bar 
 without a pilot, as it is constantly shifting, and the freshes render it 
 extremely dangerous. Mr. Charles Gahan, the second-master of H. M. B. 
 Royalist, informs us, that vessels are frequently prevented from entering 
 the river for 3 or 4 weeks at a time. In addittion to which, Mr H. J. 
 Strutt, the master of H. M. S. Victor, commanded by Captain Ellice, 
 says, that no vessel drawing more than 15 J feet of water can pass it 
 at any time." 
 
 " On the extraordinary and dangerous freshes to which the river Douro 
 is subject, Mr. Strutt makes the following useful observations: 'It is, 
 perhaps, superfluous to observe, that the great extent of this river, the 
 steepness of its banks, narrow bed, and debochure, as also the number of 
 strezftns tributary to it, make it liable to considerable irregularity in rise 
 and strength of current. Now, the seasons here are tolerably regular ; the 
 rains are heavy, continuous, and general. Thus the river is occasionally 
 swollen above its customary level. Again, during the prevalence of "W. 
 and S. W. winds, to which its entrance and principal direction is exposed, 
 its stream is more or less impeded ; as those winds cause an accumulation 
 of sand along the shore, to seaward, and upon the rocks, which are the 
 fundamental basis of the bar. Thus arises its liability to ' freshes ;' the 
 strength, duration, and importance, depending upon the conjoined opera- 
 tion of some, or all of these causes.' " 
 
 " * The periodical fall of the stream being overcome, and a gradual rise 
 continuing for two or three days, is a certain indication of one being at 
 hand ; and, when the waters begin to find vent, before the commencement 
 of the run is perceptible, the middle of the river is covered with rubbish, 
 patches of foam, &c. The Victor experienced one, accompanied with about 
 10 days rain, with little intermission, and those chiefly drizzling. During 
 that time the wind was westerly, but neither very strong nor steady. 
 The first indication, viz. loss of tide, was observed two days before the rub- 
 bish and foam were observed ; the day following it attained full strength, 
 and subsided on the third morning afterwards to the usual strength of cur- 
 rent. We had 4f knots alongside ; in the middle of the stream it was of 
 twice that velocity. There can be little doubt that the strength of this 
 fresh is very often much exceeded, especially in the spring of the year, 
 when a sudden thaw on the mountainous tracts which border the river, 
 occasions the descent of a great body of water. At all events the 
 utmost precaution for the holding of the vessel is indispensable; the 
 bottom is of light soil, soft, but not tenacious, and appears to be con- 
 siderably agitated ; and, strange as it may be thought, two vessels on the 
 opposite shore had there bowers in the stream washed astern, a circum- 
 stance which is stated to be not uncommon at such times, owing to the 
 rapidity of the stream/ " 
 
 " ' The following precautions adopted by the Victor may be useful to 
 vessels. The anchorage takfcn up by this vessel was about a mile west of 
 San Juan de Foz in 13 fathoms water.' " 
 
 " * Aug. 12, 1832. Having had much rain, and missing the accustomed 
 fall of the river, completed preparations for a fresh, having the small 
 bower with 65 fathoms of chain in the stream, on the larboard bow, the 
 best bower buried on shore with a chain, and a hemp cable clenched round 
 a tree, on the starboard bow. Stream anchor, with 50 fathoms of chain, 
 on larboard quarter (in the stream); stream hemp, and a 4| inch hawser 
 on starboard quarter, to the shore ; with spare messenger, and a warp for
 
 39 
 
 breast-fasts. The vessel warped into little more than her own draught, 
 with the rise of the water.' " 
 
 " ' We tcill now give Mr, Gabon's directions for the guidance of vessel* 
 in the Douro.' " 
 
 " * During the summer months the best anchorage is off the city, 50 
 fathoms below the rocks which show at half tide : there being no other 
 rocks near this place, it cannot be mistaken. Moor head and stern your 
 small bower anchor ahead, and stream astern, hove as close as possible to 
 the south shore, by a head and stern hawser made fast to the shore. But 
 on the least indication of a fresh, such as having a continuance of heavy 
 rain, or a fall of snow on the mountains (more particularly the latter, when 
 thawing,) you must immediately move below St. Antonio de Val de 
 Piedade convent. The following are the marks for anchoring : Sarra 
 convent, which is situated on a hill above the bridge just open of St. 
 Antonio point, which is a short distance outside St. Antonio de Val de 
 Piedade convent, bearing S. E. ^ E. (by compass) ; old burying-ground 
 point N. W. f N. ; a large yellow house, in a valley among some trees, on 
 the south side, S. by TV". With these bearings and marks on, you will be 
 in 20 feet water, low water, spring tides. The ship's head being S. E. the 
 small bower anchor is to be let go in 50 fathoms, one point on the larboard 
 bow , the stream in 70 fathoms, one point on the larboard quarter ; the 
 best bower cable to be made fast to the bower anchor, which must be taken 
 on shore, and buried in the quay, three points on the starboard bow ; a 
 hawser from the starboard quarter to the shore, and a good hawser, or 
 stream cable, from the starboard bow to fhe shore, to heave in shore by ; 
 all cables to be hove well taut ; particular attention should be paid to the 
 rise and fall of tide, taking care to heave in shore immediately the 
 water rises, and remains above high water mark, as there is scarcely any 
 ebb for one or two days previous to a fresh. Every precaution should be 
 taken to prevent the vessel shearing as you heave, in keeping booms ready 
 to boom off from the shore ; a strict look out should be kept, to ascertain 
 when the water begins to fall, taking great care to heave off as the water 
 falls. After a heavy fresh it would be advisable to sight your anchors, or, 
 in all probability you will lose them. The rise of water, in a heavy fresh, 
 is 20 feet above high water mark ; the general rise and fall in the river, as 
 high up as the town, is 12 feet.' " 
 
 AVEIRO. From Oporto bar the coast runs nearly in a S. "W. by S. 
 direction as far as Aveiro, a distance of about 11 leagues, the land bending 
 eastward, and forming a kind of bay, being near the sea, of moderate 
 elevation, but rising mountainously inland. The beach is flat, and extends 
 southerly as far as Cape Mondego; it is clear from danger, and, at the 
 distance of 1^ miles, you may safely run along it, in 9, 10, 11, and 12 
 fathoms. No remarkable object or pointed pre-eminence is perceptible all 
 the way to Aveiro, and that only can be discovered when you are very 
 near the land. The bar of Aveiro, being entirely of sand, has frequently 
 changed, and no vessel can pass it unless conducted by a pilot. Two 
 pyramids of stone serve to point out the entrance, these kept in a line will 
 lead to the bar; they are more than 70 feet in height, have square bases, 
 with bands traced horizontally, white and black, and may be distinguished 
 at 9 miles off. 
 
 The hill of Cape Mondego is S. TV. ^ S. about 27 miles from the en- 
 trance to Aveiro ; its summit is flat, and at a distance has the appearance 
 of an island ; but be careful not to mistake it for the Berlings. The land, 
 after you have passed the cape, bends to the eastward, and, with off-shore 
 winds, good anchorage may be found, when the cape bears North, distant
 
 40 
 N. 
 
 5 or 6 miles, on a bottom of fine sand, or with the cape bearing N. by W. 
 distant 4 or 5 miles; but should the wind get to the southward, you 
 must weigh immediately and stand out to sea, for westerly gales generally 
 commence from the southward, and send in a heavy sea ; these winds are 
 frequently of long duration, and occasion many accidents, therefore do not 
 get into less than 18 or 20 fathoms, or to the northward of the cape in 
 35 fathoms, which will be above 5 leagues off, the soundings gradually 
 decreasing towards the shore. Abreast of the cape are 7 fathoms, a little 
 further off 20 fathoms, and at about 7 miles distance 30 fathoms, brown 
 sand and shells. 
 
 FIGUEIRA. The bar of the river Mondego lies about 4 miles to the 
 S. E. of the cape, and has only 12 feet over it at low water, and it 
 frequently changes. The town of Figueira stands on the north bank of the 
 river, within the bar ; it is defended by the fort of Santa Catarina, upon 
 which a signal-flag is displayed, to signify that vessels may enter the river. 
 This flag is lowered or struck when the sea is so heavy that pilot-boats 
 cannot go off; and likewise when the water is not sufficiently high for 
 allowing vessels to enter the river. When a gun at the fort is fired, 
 without hoisting the flag, it is a signal to vessels to keep their station, or 
 prepare for entering ; and when the flag is afterwards hoisted, it denotes 
 that there is water for passing over the bar 
 
 From Cape Mondego the coast proceeds in a southerly direction, bending 
 outward to Cape Carvoeiro, a distance of 1 8 leagues ; the land is moder- 
 ately high, but mountainous inland. Carvoeiro is steep, and projects 
 considerably to the westward, Tiaving a large rock before it, and a chapel 
 on its summit. Within this space is the small bay of Pedernal, fit only 
 for coasting vessels, and known by the church of No. Sa. de Nazareth, 
 and the Lagoon of Obidos. On the east side of Cape Carvoeiro is a tract 
 of low flat land, which appears, as you sail along, to separate the cape 
 from the main, giving it the appearance of an island ; be careful of this 
 appearance, for, in thick weather, vessels have been known to mistake it 
 for the Berlings, and, advancing on this apparent opening, have run on 
 shore and been lost.* 
 
 THE BERLINGS. It is advisable when you make the Berlings, to 
 look out for the Fairlhoens, which are high rocks, and lie to the northward 
 of the Berlings; and you will observe the proper channel is broader east 
 and west than the flat we have been speaking of. THE GREAT BERLING 
 is an island of moderate height, having a hollow or cove about the middle ; 
 the shores are steep, except on the east side, where a fort is built ; opposite 
 this vessels may ride with N. W., West, and S. W. winds, and obtain 
 plenty of excellent fresh water; but if the wind is from any other quarter, 
 this will not be found a safe place for anchorage. Near the west side of 
 the great island is the high Fairlhoen, with a cluster of small ones round 
 it, called the Estellas, one of which is at the distance of one-quarter of a 
 mile. S. S. W. of that, distant one mile, lies a rock which appears at low 
 water. On the north side of the great island is the Little Fairlhoen; and 
 about N. E. ^ N., distant 5 miles, lies the Great Fairlhoen, being a broad, 
 round, ragged rock, with a number of smaller ones around it ; it is nearly 
 as high as the Berlings, and near it is another of similar size and height ; a 
 sunken rock is to the W. S. W. of it, at the distance of half a mile. 
 
 * There is now a light-house erected upon the largest of the Berling islands, from which is 
 exhibited a revolving light, of the first class, which makes one complete revolution in the space 
 of 3 minutes, exactly, showing, during that time, a hiilliant light, immediately followed hy an 
 eclipse.
 
 41 
 
 The channel between the Berlings and Cape Carvoeiro is 5 miles in 
 breadth, and clear, with a depth of 32 to 14 fathoms, so that whole fleets 
 may pass through it in safety. East and North of Cape Carvoeiro, at the 
 beginning of the low land, lies the upper town of Peniche, and on the east 
 and south side of the cape is the lower town. There begins a flat bay, 
 ending in a rocky point, on which stands the castle of Anparo ; in this little 
 bay a vessel may anchor with the winds from the E. N. E. to N. N. W., 
 but not with any other. Three leagues to the southward is the castle of 
 Encarnacion, where an extensive flat beach begins. Four leagues from 
 Encarnacion are Ericeira town and bay ; a league from which town is the 
 convent of MAFRA, a celebrated structure, on the summit of a high hill, 
 forming a remarkable object, by which this part of the coast may be 
 distinguished. 
 
 CAPE Roc A, or the ROCK OP LISBON, lies 4 leagues from Ericeira. The 
 position of the cape or rock, from the mean of various observations, is 
 latitude 38 46' 30" N., and longitude 9 26' 48" W. The cape is broad 
 and moderately high, steep towards the sea, with a tower on its summit, 
 which is lighted by night. Near it is a high rock, and further out a shoal, 
 over which the sea breaks, although near its outside are 40 fathoms. The 
 land suddenly rises inland, to a remarkable mountainous ridge running 
 easterly, with several irregular risings, having on its northern slope the 
 town of CINTRA, from which it takes its name, and being a good mark to 
 know the coast by. S. by W., 4 miles from Cape Roca, is Cape Razo, 
 or Point Sinchette, having a reef very near it. The intermediate coast 
 forms a bay, which is enclosed by a high steep coast, excepting near the 
 point, where there is a flat beach. From Cape Razo, the coast eastward, 
 to fort St. Julian, is everywhere steep, but clean, excepting at Point Rana, 
 about a musket-shot to the westward of that fort, where the ground is 
 shoal. You will, in advancing towards the Tagus, perceive the light-house 
 called Na. Sa. de la Guia, and, further on, the fort, town, and bay of Cascaes; 
 here, abreast of the town, is good anchorage, with from 8 to 18 fathoms; 
 the road is sheltered from N. W"., North, and N. E. winds. In running in 
 for it, bring the town open with the castle and point ; here you may ob- 
 tain a pilot for the Tagus. 
 
 LISBON. Four miles from Cascaes is fort St. Julian, at the entrance 
 of the Tagus. This fort is large, and situate on a high, steep, projecting 
 point, having a small reef before it. The light-tower of St. Julian, which 
 stands near the centre of the fortress, is 120 feet in height above the sea, 
 and is lighted by night throughout the year. At 5 miles to the eastward 
 of fort St. Julian is the CASTLE OP BELEM, standing upon a low sandy 
 point, with a battery about it, towards the river : it is insulated at high 
 water. The CITY OP LISBON, the capital of Portugal, is finely situated 
 on the north side of the Tagus, and is sheltered on the N. W. by a range 
 of mountainous land ; it is built in the form of an amphitheatre ; and its 
 patriarchal church having a dome, with the royal palace, and other public 
 edifices, present a magnificent aspect from the river. 
 
 THE BAR OP THE TAGUS. The shoal part is called the Cachop, and, 
 for the sake of distinction, divided into two parts Northern and Southern. 
 The NORTH CACHOP, a rocky shoal, has but little water over it, so that in 
 a swell from the westward, and particularly when the ebb is coming down, 
 the sea breaks furiously over it. The northern part is the shoalest, and is 
 about a musket-shot from the fort of St. Julian ; the bank hence tends to 
 the W. S. W. 2| miles. Between this sand and the fort St. Julian is the 
 North or Little Channel, the least depth in which is about 4 fathoms at 
 low water, as it is scarcely one-quarter of a mile in breadth. It requires
 
 42 
 
 a leading wind, being too narrow to allow a vessel to turn in. On pro- 
 ceeding for it, keep under the shore of Cascaes, in a line with the lantern 
 of Na. Sa. de la Guia ; keep on that direction to Point Rana, only ob- 
 serving to give a berth to the shoal about that point. You next bring the 
 Bugio tower in a line with the Monte Cordova, sugar-loaf hill, on the 
 southern land, bearing S. E. ^ S., and must follow this bearing until fort 
 St. Julian bears N. N. E. (north), whence you proceed to the eastward, 
 with the river open. You will have passed the extremity of the North 
 Cachop when the factory comes in sight, by the east side of fort St. Julian. 
 This factory is a building with several houses about it, standing at a 
 short distance to the north-eastward of the fort. Having passed this 
 point, you run along the north shore, which is everywhere clean, to the 
 Castle of Belem, near which you must come to an anchor, as no vessel, of 
 any description, is allowed higher up, until she has been visited by the 
 officers of the health office. 
 
 THE SOUTH CACHOP has less water than the northern one, for its N. E. 
 or inner part, named Cabeca Secca, or Dry Head, is always dry. On the 
 middle of this Cachop, at S. S. E., nearly a mile and a half from fort St. 
 Julian, is the Bugio fort and light-house, an object too remarkable to be 
 mistaken by any stranger entering the harbour. At low water the Bugio 
 appears on a dry bank ; but at high water, the sea washes the walls of the 
 fort. Between the South Cachop and the shore, to the east of it, there is 
 a small channel which admits boats only. The tower of the Bugio is 66 
 feet in height. 
 
 THE GREAT OR SOUTHERN CHANNEL lies between the Cachops and the 
 outer bar. In proceeding for this channel, it is to be observed, that the 
 S. W. extremity of the North Cachop lies with the town of Cascaes in a 
 line with the western slope of the hill of Cintra. The line of direction for 
 sailing to the bar is, therefore, the Rock's Nose, or extremity of Cape 
 Roca, seen overland, in a line with the light-house of Guia, and bearing 
 North, until the Bugio tower and South point of the city of Lisbon are in 
 a line, bearing nearly East. The latter mark, which leads into the great 
 channel, cannot be mistaken, as no point of the harbour, other than that 
 here mentioned, is covered with houses to the water's edge. With this 
 mark on, you may run without fear ; and, at the distance of about 4 miles 
 without the Bugio, the water will be found to shoalen suddenly to 
 6 fathoms on the bar, at the distance of one-third of a mile to the%south- 
 ward of the North Cachop. Continue on the same direction until you 
 have crossed the bar, and have advanced to the distance of 2^ miles from 
 the Bugio, when the water will be found to deepen to 10 or 12 fathoms. 
 So soon as the fort of St. Julian bears N. E. by N., as above mentioned, 
 steer up directly between it and the Bugio, towards the north side of the 
 river, when good anchorage may be found all along the shore. The only 
 danger in proceeding thus arises from an ebb tide, hereafter explained. 
 
 It is to be remarked, that in all cases it is safer to keep towards the 
 north than to the south shore, because the latter is very steep-to, and the 
 water is too deep for anchorage. As the tide draws strongly on the Bugio, 
 observe that if you should bring Belem castle in a line with the high 
 citadel in the city of Lisbon, you must instantly tack to the northward to 
 guide you clear of it. In order to receive the visit of the health officer, 
 already noticed, you must bring to, off the castle of Belem, in from 17 to 
 14 fathoms; after which, you proceed to the road of Lisbon, on the west 
 side of the city, and under the citadel or castle, which is upon the highest 
 part of it. Here you must use good anchors and cables, mooring east and 
 west, without buoys, as the tide runs here with rapidity, in the manner
 
 43 
 
 already described. The bottom is of mud, and the depth from 23 to 
 8 fathoms. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. In sailing up to Lisbon, a pilot is indispensable, 
 in consequence of the powerful operation of the tides, which has caused 
 the destruction of many vessels. Off the city the ebb runs down at the 
 rate of 7 miles an hour, so that the anchors there frequently come home, 
 especially those with buoys, which are of no use, as, from the violence of 
 the current, they are frequently immersed in the water. The flood tide is 
 considerably weaker than the ebb. On the bar, at full and change, the 
 time of high water is 11^ h., p. M. : the vertical rise is about 16 feet. 
 
 The danger in entering is, when a strong ebb 1 is running down, opposed 
 to a strong wind from sea, which makes a complete break, sometimes all 
 over the bar. Under these circumstances, a vessel is almost unmanageable, 
 and the tide may sheer her about ; but in the middle of the Great or South 
 Channel, the tide sets directly through. To enter the river, during the 
 ebb, would require a brisk gale and all sails set, in order to make any way, 
 or even to stem the current ; and, it is to be observed, that, within the 
 river, the wind comes very irregularly through the valleys on each side, 
 unless it proceeds from the West or S. W. It is, however, tolerably 
 steady, when in the direction of the river. The tide draws strongly to- 
 ward the Bugio bank ; and, hereabout, the waters divide into several 
 counter-currents, so that a vessel approaching too near this bank will not 
 obey the helm. 
 
 From the bar of Lisbon the land runs southerly, with a low sandy beach 
 reaching within a mile or two of Cape Espichel, where it becomes lofty ; 
 it then turns easterly towards Setubal or St. Ubes. Cape Espichel rises 
 perpendicularly out of the sea to a moderate height, its top appearing ir- 
 regular, white on the north side, and red towards the south, with a chapel 
 on the summit. To the eastward of the cape is the mountain of St. Lewis, 
 lying inland, and a little to the northward of it is a hill of less magnitude, 
 shaped like a haycock ; these, when coming from the sea, are good objects 
 to know the land by, and may be seen before you can discern the cape 
 itself. About 2| leagues from Cape Espichel is Cape Ares, which is high 
 land. To the westward of this are the small bay and town of Cezimbra. 
 You will readily know this place by a castle built on the top of a hill. 
 Here, with winds from the N. W., North, and N. E., you may anchor, 
 holding yourself in readiness to put off to sea, should the wind change. 
 Near the land you have 7 and 8 fathoms ; further out, it becomes rocky 
 as far as 30 fathoms ; it is then clear, and here large vessels generally 
 anchor, if necessary. From Cape Ares the land continues high and bold 
 to the entrance of St. Ubes. 
 
 SETUBAL, or ST. UBES, is a bar-harbour. On the north point of 
 the entrance is a fort, and a little further in, the old tower of Outas, 
 having two sentry-boxes towards the sea. You must lay your ship's head 
 on the first sentry-box nearest the fort, bringing it nearly on with 
 St. Philip's castle, leaving the castle a little open to the south of the box ; 
 and as you enter the river, you will perceive three red coloured precipices, 
 in a rocky cliff, between Outas and St. Philip's castle, bring these in one, 
 and it will lead into the river ; but the sands at the entrance are very 
 liable to alter, and therefore a pilot should always be taken to conduct you 
 safely in. There are 20 feet over the bar, at low water, spring tides. The 
 mariner should observe, in sailing out of this river, to get under weigh at 
 the turn of the tide. 
 
 Nearly S. S. W. from the bar of St. Ubes, 10^ leagues, lies Cape Sines; 
 the shore is generally low, a projecting point, called Pesqueira, excepted.
 
 To the southward of this point are two small hills, with houses upon them, 
 which serve to mark this part of the coast by. There is fair anchorage 
 along the land, in from 10 to 15 fathoms, the ground clean. Cape Sines is 
 low but steep, having a large rock before it, and another to the S. W. 
 Between these rocks and the island of Pessegueiro, to the southward, is 
 what is called the Road of Sines. Three leagues from the island is the 
 entrance to VILLANOVA DE MELPONTES ; the land toward which is low, and 
 the beach sandy ; at one spot is a reddish coloured precipice, which, with 
 another, lying W. S. W. of the bar, are objects to know this part of the 
 coast by. Villanova has a bar at the entrance, over which are only 
 2 fathoms at low water, and from the southern point of the entrance a 
 sand stretches out. Between Pessegueiro island and Villanova small vessels 
 may lie in 2 and 3 fathoms, under the protection of a fort near the island. 
 About 3 leagues to the southward of Villanova is Cape Sardao, which is 
 a point of high land ; 5 leagues further on is Arrifona, having a bay where 
 vessels may ride in 8, 10, and 12 fathoms, under the guns of a fortress ; 
 at the entrance is a rock, resembling a ship under sail, surrounded with 
 other small ones. About 5| leagues further is Cape St. Vincent. 
 
 CAPE ST. VINCENT is of moderate height; but to the northward of 
 it the land is much higher, having many rocks about it. In coming from 
 sea, and making for this part of the coast, you will first perceive the Mou- 
 chique mountains, which range along East and West, being divided into 
 two parts ; those to the westward are both larger and higher than those 
 to the eastward, their summit bearing from the cape about E. N. E. j E., 
 and may be seen in a clear day full 25 leagues off. Having obtained sight 
 of these mountains, you will next descry the elevated land to the north- 
 ward of the cape, which will readily point out the situation of the cape 
 itself. On the cape is a convent, and about 20 fathoms from the foot of 
 the cape is a rock, large and high, there being a passage between it and 
 the land, with a depth of from 10 to 15 fathoms, coarse sand and shells : 
 outside this rock, a boat's length, are 11 and 16 fathoms, and a cable's 
 length, 20 fathoms. 
 
 Nearly 3 miles from Cape St. Vincent is Point Sagres, nearly of the 
 same height, and perpendicular ; but the coast thence to the N. E. declines 
 in height. Point Piedade, at 5 leagues to the eastward of Sagres, marks 
 the entrance of the port of Lagos, and is the termination of a range of 
 high land, called that of Barril. This point is of moderate height, broken 
 and rugged, with a number of large rocks before it. On the summit is a 
 chapel, and on the south side a shoal extending to the distance of nearly 
 half a cable's length. 
 
 THE BAY OF LAGOS is clean and capacious : in summer a number 
 of vessels may anchor within it, sheltered from N. W. to the N. E. winds, 
 but exposed to all others. Within less than a cable's length from Point 
 Piedade, there is a depth of 9 fathoms. For a ship of war, the best riding 
 will be 1 8 fathoms, east from Point Piedade, distant one mile ; a frigate 
 may lay nearer to the shore, in 15 fathoms ; and smaller vessels before the 
 town, in 8 fathoms. The northern beach is low, and the river within is 
 navigable, but requires a pilot ; for, near its mouth the bottom is rocky, 
 from shore outward to the depth of 18 fathoms. Seven miles from Point 
 Piedade lies Ponta de los Hermanos, a point of middling height, not pro- 
 jecting; and this is considered as the termination of the Bay of Lagos. 
 The little river of Villa Nueva is 10 miles E. ^ S. from Point Piedade. It 
 has a shoal bar, and on each side a battery. Captain Smyth says, "There 
 is a depth of 16 or 18 feet of water on the bar ; but, in my opinion, it is 
 only a summer watering place ; as the Portuguese told me, that in winter
 
 45 
 
 the bar is seldom passable for ships, as the breakers are very dangerous, 
 and the swell a long way outside it." 
 
 Five miles from Villa Nueva is Cape Carbonero, moderately high, having 
 the fort of La Rocca, Encarnacion, near it, serving for the defence of two 
 small bays lying on each side of the cape. Two miles further is another 
 fort, La Rocha, built upon a bluff point, which projects into the sea, having 
 also a small bay on each side of it, affording shelter in winds from the N.E. 
 and N. W. Nearly E. S. E., 5| miles from Cape Carbonero, is the Point of 
 Albufeira ; on the east side of which is a small bay, the town being at the 
 further end, built upon a height near the shore, enclosed with walls and 
 ancient towers. On the beach is a battery. Vessels may here find shelter 
 from winds in the N. "VV. to the N. E. quarter, the anchorage being good. 
 S. E. from Point Albufeira, 12^ miles, is the city of Faro, the coast forming 
 a circular bight ; midway stands the town of St. Antonio de la Quarteira, 
 built on a rising ground, with a river and fort adjacent. 
 
 THE CITY OF FARO stands at the distance of 12| miles south-eastward 
 from Albufeira. Cape Santa Maria, or St. Mary, the southern extremity 
 of three low islands, lies S. E. by E. ^ E., distant 18 leagues from Point 
 Sagres of St. Vincent. The three islands form the channels of the port of 
 Faro, each of which has a bar ; that on the west is called the Baireta, or 
 Little Bar, and has only 10 feet over it at high water ; that on the east is 
 the Great Bar, and has 13 feet ; the middle one, called Barra Nueva, or 
 the New Bar, 9 feet. Eastward of Faro may be seen the chapel of St. 
 Antonio, and, further east, the village of Hullon. The middle island pro- 
 perly forms the Cape Santa Maria, which is low and sandy, with 2 and 2 5 
 fathoms, a cable's length from the shore ; three cables' length off, are 
 3 fathoms; and at the distance of a mile off, are 9 fathoms, rapidly in- 
 creasing to 20 and 25 fathoms ; so that, at a league off, there are 80 and 90 
 fathoms, and, a little further, no ground at 150 fathoms. The bottom is 
 generally sandy, with some shells intermixed. 
 
 In making for this cape you will observe an inland mountain, called 
 Monte Figo, which is visible 16 leagues off, and not like any other about 
 this part. When seen from the westward it appears by itself, and not at- 
 tached to the northern range of hills, but when viewed from the south- 
 ward they will appear grouped and confounded together. It will, in 
 coming from the westward, not be seen before you have passed Sagres, 
 and cannot be perceived at the distance of Cape St. Vincent. There is a 
 little hill to the eastward of Mount Figo, which somewhat resembles it in 
 shape, called the Little Mountain. 
 
 To the eastward of Cape St. Maria is the small barred entrance of 
 Foseta ; and a little further on is Tavira, fit only for small vessels and 
 coasters, and then only to be entered with a pilot ; but before the latter 
 place you may anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms, having the wind off shore. The 
 whole coast, from the great bar of Cape St. Maria to Tavira, is encumbered 
 with islands, separated from the main by narrow channels and salt ponds, 
 navigable by boats. Ridges of high land appear up the country, from 
 Mount Figo to Ayamonte, the latter being a remarkable object, and visible 
 still further off than Mount Figo. About 4 leagues from Tavira is the 
 entrance to the river Guadiana, which here divides Portugal from Spain. 
 
 THE RIVER GCADIANA is bounded on the west side by Point St. Antonio, 
 which is low and sandy, having a reef or bank extending from it nearly 
 south, above a mile, called the Western Picacho ; and on the east side by 
 Point Canelas, from which also a similar sand runs out, about 2 miles, 
 called the Eastern Picacho ; between these banks the channel, or bar, is 
 about a cable's length in breadth. On the western side is the town of
 
 46 
 
 Villa Real, and, further on, Castro Marin ; but, between these places, a 
 branch of the river runs to the westward. One mile up the river Guadiana 
 stands the town of Ayamonte, on the opposite or eastern side. This part 
 of the coast may be known by a remarkable mountain called Monte Gordo, 
 which stands above Ayamonte. In sailing for the bar it will be requisite 
 to engage a pilot, as the general depth upon it, at low water, is only 6 feet; 
 but within the bar will be found 3 fathoms. The tides rise about 12 
 feet. 
 
 Between the rivers Guadiana and Guadalquiver, there is no place of 
 trade which can be entered by a stranger without a pilot. Every river 
 has its bar of sand, and the coast is low and sandy. The distance from the 
 bar of Ayamonte to that of Huelba or Palos is 7 leagues ; and from Palos 
 to St. Lucar, the sea-port of Seville, 10 leagues. AVithin the latter extent 
 is a chain of sand hills, upon which stand several towers, and by these its 
 distance may be estimated. On the north side of the entrance to St. Lucar 
 is the point and tower of St. Jacinto, which appear among the sand hills, 
 at about three cables' length from shore. From this point, on the N. W., 
 is a dangerous rocky shelf, called the Cape Bank, some parts of which ap- 
 pear above the surface at low water ; it is about a mile in length, and half 
 a mile broad. Within the extent of two miles W. S. W. ^ W. from the 
 extremity of the Cape Bank, are three rocky shoals, which may be con- 
 sidered as the bar of St. Lucar; and off these, the outer one, Picacho ap- 
 pears above the surface at low water. 
 
 SAN LUCAR. Nearly S. W. by W. from Point Jacinto, distant 
 4 miles, is Point Chipiona, or the southern point of the river Guadalquiver, 
 low and flat, having a reef running N. W. from it about a mile, called El 
 Perro, or the Dog ; within it a number of fishing crawls may be seen. 
 W. N. W. of Chipiona, about 2 miles, lies the north end of the Sabinal 
 shoal, extending about a mile N. by W. and S. by E. At low water this 
 bank is visible, but at other times the sea breaks over it ; near its western 
 side are 5 fathoms, but there are other shoals between it and the land. At 
 the distance of half a league to the eastward of the Perro and Point 
 Chipiona is Point Montigos, low and rocky, with a reef extending along- 
 shore to St. Lucar, two miles, which is 1 j mile broad ; so that the channel 
 between it and the Picacho, before noticed, is narrowed to so small an ex- 
 tent that, with scanty or contrary winds, no vessel drawing more than 
 14 feet should attempt it, even at high water, it being too narrow for any 
 but coasters. The depth at the entrance, low water spring tides, is 2^ 
 fathoms ; at high water, 2 fathoms more : the bottom gravel. From the 
 above, it is evident that every stranger ought to have a pilot, if bound in 
 for St. Lucar. From St. Lucar large vessels ascend to Seville, which is 
 more than 16 leagues from the sea. 
 
 The CORRALES OP REGLA lie S. by "W. ^ W., one mile and a half from 
 Point Chipiona. It is a dangerous flat, covered with rocks and stones, ex- 
 tending outward to half a mile from shore ; a number of fishing crawls 
 are extended before it, to the distance of two cables' length. Between 
 Point Chipiona and this shoal the coast forms a bight, with a flat beach, 
 in the bottom of which, near the shore, you will see the Convent de Regla, 
 and, further on, the tower and high land of Beva. Point Candor lies 
 6 miles south from Point Corrales. At one-third of this distance is Point 
 Meta ; and, at more than two-thirds, the coast is flat, and bordered with 
 rocks. The point, small, flat, and sandy, with a reef running from it all 
 the way to Rota, at the entrance of the Bay of Cadiz. This place has a 
 pier near the point, but it admits small coasters only, and those at high 
 water.
 
 47 
 
 BAY AND HARBOUR OF CADIZ. The entrance to this harbour 
 is between the town of Rota and the city of Cadiz. CADIZ is the first 
 commercial city of Spain, being the centre of commerce with the Spanish 
 colonies. It is situated on the end of a low peninsula, constituting the 
 northern extremity of the isle of Leon. This isle is separated from the 
 main by the Rio de Sanctri Petri, which is 3 leagues in length, with a 
 depth of 3 and 4 fathoms. Puerto Santa Maria lies 5 miles to the north- 
 eastward of Cadiz. The river Guadaletta, which flows past it, is naviga- 
 ble, but has a bar of only one foot at low water. The city of Cadiz, being 
 destitute of good water, is supplied from this place. San Fernando stands 
 on the eastern side of the isle of Leon, distant 7 miles from Cadiz, and is 
 connected to the main land by a bridge over the river Sanctri Petri. On 
 the other side is Caracea, which includes the arsenal, &c. &c. ; and on the 
 shore of the inner road, opposite to Caracea, is Puerto Real, a small town, 
 inhabited by seamen, workmen, &c., principally supported by the neigh- 
 bouring salt works. 
 
 THE TROCADERO is a small channel, two miles long, lying to the west- 
 ward of Puerto Real. It is furnished with extensive quays, and has several 
 maritime establishments. This channel is only 34 yards broad, and vessels 
 going in or out have therefore to wait for full tide, as at the mouth, the 
 depth, at low water, is only 7 feet, increasing inwards to 9, 10, and 12 feet. 
 
 THE TOWER, or LIGHT-HOUSE OF ST. SEBASTIAN, stands on the west 
 point of Cadiz. The light is excellent ; it revolves once in a minute, and 
 is clearly seen, in fine weather, more than 6 leagues off. S. by E. ^ E. 
 from the light-house, at the distance of 5| miles, stands the TORRE GORDA, 
 or Great Tower, (called also the Tower of Hercules) on the top of a little 
 sand hill ; it is round, and below it is a battery. Care must be taken that 
 it be not mistaken for the light-house of Cadiz, especially in thick weather, 
 as the coast between is a very low beach, and without it are several reefs. 
 It is also to be observed that, at the distance of 12 miles, N. f E. from the 
 light-house, stands the Casa de Beva, a tower on a lofty ridge, which may 
 be seen from the surrounding country at a great distance. It is square, 
 has a cupola on it, and stands between two large houses. From Rota the 
 bearing and distance to this tower are N. by E. \ E., 6 miles. 
 
 ROCKS AND SHOALS. From the point of St. Sebastian a reef extends 
 more than half a mile to the west ; and at a third of a mile from the light- 
 house, N. W. by W., is the La Olla,^ or Kettle Rock, having only 6 feet 
 water over it. N. N. E. f E., about one mile from the same tower, are 
 two small black rocks, called the Cochinos^ or Pigs, visible at low water, 
 but covered at full tide ; these are in a line with the two towers of the 
 Carmelite church ; within these, and near the shore, is the Friedera Shoal, 
 always covered, but the sea breaks on it when there is any swell from 
 without the bay. The distance from the Cochinos to this shoal is 420 
 fathoms, and it lies with the church of the Carmelites bearing S. E. ^ S. 
 
 The PUERCAS, or Hogs, are a cluster of black rocks, extending E. by S. 
 and W. by N. They are always distinguishable by the breakers at high 
 water, and visible when it is low tide. The bearing and distance of these 
 from the Cochinos are E. ^ S., nearly half a mile. La Cruz Rock is above 
 water, the largest of a number lying close to the wall at the foot of the 
 bastion of the Bonete, or westernmost bastion of Cadiz. El Frayle, or 
 the Friar, is a rocky shoal, off the N. W. bastion of the town, behind 
 which may be seen the Carmelite church before-mentioned. Its bearing 
 and distance from the Puercas are S. E. 435 fathoms ; the least depth over 
 it is 14 feet. When on the east end of this shoal, the Carmelite church 
 will be seen between the two sentry-boxes on the bastion of Candelaria ;
 
 48 
 
 and when on the west end, La Cruz rock will be in one with the tower of 
 St. Sebastian. 
 
 The EL DIAMANTE, or The Diamond, is a rocky shoal, extending N. TV. 
 and S. E. about 1 65 fathoms, having over it 1 2 feet at low water ; the 
 mark for it being the flagstaff of the castle of Santa Catalina del Puerto 
 on with the easternmost part of the Morro of Xeres. The northern part 
 of Puerto Real will then be in a line with the southern little hill of Me- 
 dina ; and the Puercas in one with Fort St. Catharine. La Galera, another 
 rocky shoal, extending from north to south, nearly 400 fathoms, lies at the 
 distance of 412 fathoms from El Diamante. Its least depth appears to be 
 10 feet at low water ; on the shoalest part the southernmost part of Puerto 
 Real will be on with the first top of the Barrueco, a little hill, having two 
 peaks on its summit ; and the steeple of St. Domingo will be covered by 
 the point of St. Philip, about a boat's length ; Point St. Philip will then 
 be in a line with the ditch of the Land-port of the city. Between Los 
 Corrales and the castle of Puntales is the shoal bank of St. Domingo, on 
 which is 85 feet ; the bottom is of sand and shells. The outer edge of this 
 shoal forms the narrowest part of the harbour, and lies in a line with the 
 castle of Puntales and Torre Gorda, or Tower of Hercules. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING THE BAY OP CADIZ. Vessels coming from 
 the westward will, as they approach Cadiz, observe inland a ridge of hills, 
 having one among them higher and rounder than the rest ; this is called 
 the Moor's Head, and may be brought to bear E. f S., which course will 
 carry you direct to the tower of St. Sebastian and the buildings of Cadiz. 
 As the lantern is 172 feet high from the base, it may be seen at the dis- 
 tance of between 4 and 5 leagues. Cadiz may distinctly be seen at 3 
 leagues off. In approaching towards the city, a good berth must be given 
 to the rocks in its vicinity. 
 
 Vessels sailing into Cadiz Harbour, with a fair and leading wind, so soon 
 as they are in the fairway between Rota and Cadiz, the leading mark is 
 the church of Puerto Real in a line with the steeple of the church of 
 Medina, bearing S. E. ^ E. This mark leads between the Puercas and 
 the Diamante ; but, so soon as you have proceeded so far in as to discover 
 the Mole of the Seville gate of Cadiz open on the east of Point St. Philip, 
 you may haul round and anchor, in 5 or 6 fathoms, with the castle of Santa 
 Catalina N. N. E. ; or in 3 or 4 fathoms, with the head of the lesser mole 
 bearing west. But if wishing to run on beyond Cadiz, steer right for the 
 castle of Matagorda, until the Torre Gorda, or Tower of Hercules, on the 
 isle of Leon, opens on the east side of the castle of Puntales ; then laying 
 the ship's head towards Torre Gorda, to the entrance of the Narrows, 
 where the north side of fort Luis and the south side of Matagorda castle 
 are in a line, whence you stand on for a high tower on the north side of the 
 town of Leon, and come to an anchor, with that tower bearing about 
 S. by TV. ^ TV., in what depth you please, from 7 to 4 fathoms. 
 
 Should a heavy easterly or south-easterly wind, or the approach of night, 
 or an ebb tide, prevent a vessel entering the bay, she may come to an an- 
 chor without the harbour-shoals, in 10 or 11 fathoms, muddy bottom. On 
 taking this station, in the winter, it is necessary to have the light-tower of 
 St. Sebastian to the S. S. E. (S. E.) half a point more or less, with the castle 
 of Santa Catalina del Puerto, nearly E. \ N., in a line with the Morro of 
 Xeres. In summer, you may come-to more to the N. E., as there is, in 
 that season, no danger of sudden gales ; and you will thus have the advan- 
 tage of being a little to windward on the following morning ; for, in the 
 summer, in general, the wind draws away from the land in the morning, 
 and so assists vessels in entering. Ships moor with due regard to the turn
 
 49 
 
 of the tides, having the best anchor to the eastward or S. E., as the winds 
 from that quarter are the strongest winds that prevail here. 
 
 With afarouralle wind, in fair weather, vessels may run in between the 
 Cochino, Puercas, &c., and the shore of Cadiz, through a channel having 
 a depth of from 15 to 24- feet. It should not, however, be attempted by 
 any who are not well acquainted with this place, or unless in a case of ab- 
 solute necessity. Vessels may also enter the harbour by passing to the 
 northward of Galera ; if coming in this way, in a large ship, keep over to 
 the sandy shore northward of the castle of Santa Catalina, or to the dis- 
 tance of half a mile from it, until that castle, nearly E. N., be in a line 
 with the Morro of Xeres, whence you may run to the anchorage. 
 
 With an adverse wind, this bay should not be attempted without a pilot, 
 if one can be obtained, as it is difficult for a stranger to ascertain the marks. 
 It is, however, presumed that, with attention, the following instructions 
 may be useful : Should a vessel be off the point of St. Sebastian, with an 
 easterly or south-easterly wind, she must give a good berth to the Olla, or 
 Kettle, the shoal which lies off that point, and then bring the castle of 
 Santa Catalina del Puerto in a line with the road leading to the town of 
 Xeres, or with a break in the N. W. part of the Morro of Xeres. This 
 bearing should be kept on, until the two towers of the Carmelite church 
 in Cadiz, after having appeared in one are again open ; here you will have 
 passed the Cochinos, and must haul up to the wind, standing more easterly 
 towards the shore, provided the castle of Santa Catalina be open with the 
 Morro of Xeres. In a ship of the line, if this be not the case, you should 
 not stand on so far as to bring the town of Puerto Real open with Medina, 
 but put about to the southward before that happens, in order to avoid the 
 Diamante. A smaller ship may, however, keep on, if certain of making 
 good way on the larboard tack ; or so that the Puercas be not brought in a 
 fine with the light-house of St. Sebastian, but kept open on the west side 
 of them, before Puerto Real be brought in a line with Medina ; for if the 
 last objects be kept in one, you may happen to touch on the Diamante. 
 If standing in, on the larboard tack, before you clear the Cochinos, take 
 care not to go so far as to bring the two towers of the Carmelite church in 
 one, when the light-house of St. Sebastian bears S. S. W. (South) ; but so 
 soon as the opening between these towers begins to close, put about on the 
 the other tack^ observing, at the same time, that the spire of the church 
 of Puerto Real be on the break in the land, on the north side of Medina. 
 On the next board you will run between the Puercas and Diamante, 
 taking care not to bring, on either tack, Medina open with Puerto Real, 
 until the steeple of St. Francis, in Port Santa Maria, appears on the east 
 side of the castle of Santa Catalina, when you may continue the course 
 towards that castle, as you will then be to windward of the Diamante. 
 On subsequently standing to the southward, you must not separate Puerto 
 Real from Medina, until the steeple of St. Domingo appears open of the 
 point of St. Philip, in Cadiz, when you will have weathered the Frayle ; 
 and may stand on, until the steeple of Puerto Real appears a little to the 
 northward of Medina, when you will be within all the shoals, and may 
 proceed to an anchorage, as already described. 
 
 It is high water in Cadiz bay at two o'clock, on the days of full and 
 change, and the tide rises 10 feet ; on the next days following, it rises 11 ; 
 but neap tides rise only six feet. In the space between the Frayle and the 
 Cochinos, the ebb tide runs strongly through the channels between the 
 shoals, and the flood tide, on the contrary, sets towards them. 
 
 From Cadiz to Cape Trafalgar the shore runs southerly, having many 
 rocks which lie scattered about, and are extremely dangerous. In sailing
 
 50 
 
 round the Isle of Leon give the land a good berth, and keep the tower or 
 light-house of St. Sebastian wide open of the town of Rota, or bring the 
 lantern to bear N. N. E., by which you will clear the rocks which lie about 
 S. | E. from it, distant one mile. Further on, bearing S. S. W. (South), 
 2|- miles from the light-house, is a shoal spot, with only 13 feet over it at 
 low water. From this spot the Morro, or hill of Xcres, appears in a line 
 with a remarkable church, having three towers, situate nearly half a mile 
 to the southward of the land-port of Cadiz. To avoid it, keep the light- 
 house of St. Sebastian a point or more to the eastward of N. N. E. The 
 reefs to the southward will be avoided by taking care not to bring the 
 light-house of St. Sebastian and the town of Rota in one, or rather by 
 keeping Rota open to the left of the point of St. Sebastian. 
 
 The TORRE GORDA, or Tower of Hercules, stands S. by E. ^ E. 
 (S. E. | S.) from the light-house of St. Sebastian, distant 5 miles. The 
 coast between, being a very low beach, with rocks along it, is called the 
 Arecife, or Reef t)f Cadiz. The islet Sanctri Petri, lying at the entrance 
 of the river which bears the same name, is 5 j miles nearly south from the 
 Torre Gorda. The coast, as above, is a low flat beach, with detached rocks 
 and stones. The islet is surrounded with rocks, and has on it a castle 
 with a square tower ; within it the river has two entrances, but both are 
 too much obstructed by rocks to admit of any vessels larger than fishing 
 boats and small coasters. A round tower called Torre Bermeja, or the 
 Red Tower, is S. E. by E. ^ E. from Sanctri Petri, distant nearly 4 miles ; 
 it stands near the beach, at the east end of a portion of coast, of a red 
 colour, level on the top, and steep towards the water, but a little higher 
 than the land to the westward of it, and covered with fir trees. Another 
 round tower, called Barrosa, stands on a height, at the distance of a mile 
 and three-fifths to the southward from the former. The coast between is 
 the flat beach of Barrosa. To the north-eastward of the tower is a little 
 hill called La Cabeza del Puerco, (the Pig's Head), which serves to point 
 out the position of several shoals hereabout. 
 
 CAPE ROCHE, at 2^ miles from the tower of Barrosa, has on it a square 
 tower ; this cape is not high, but steep to seaward, and of a red colour, by 
 which it may readily be known. Some rocky precipices, near the cape, 
 are called the Castelligos, or Little Castles. Close under the eastern side 
 of Cape Roche is a small beach, witli a little river. The eastern point of 
 this flat beach, called Espileta, is rocky, and is useful as a mark for some 
 of the shoals in the offing, hereafter described. The Watch-lower of Conil, 
 which stands within the distance of one league S. E. ^ S., is square, and 
 stands on a height a little to the westward of the town of Conil. In the 
 bight between these towers, at a mile from the latter, are the remains of a 
 tower called Torre Blanca ; and below this, close to the shore, are three large 
 cocks, lying in a line athwart the land. The top of this coast is even, its 
 face steep, and a little higher than Cape Roche, with a sandy beach, and a 
 few rocky points. The little river of Conil admits small vessels at high 
 water, but they lie dry when the tide is out. The tower of Castiloba is 
 square^ and stands at a mile and a half southward from that of Conil ; the 
 beach on which it is placed is very flat, but the interior land is hilly. 
 
 CAPE TRAFALGAR is 5 miles to the southward of the tower of Castiloba, 
 and is situate in latitude 36 10' 15" N., and longitude 6 1' 30" W. It is 
 not high, but may be known by its remarkable figure, being flat, and ter- 
 minating with two sharp corners, or angles. A round tower stands on the 
 eastern corner. To the eastward of the flat, the land is very uneven and 
 mountainous. East of the flat land are high sandy cliffs, but none to the 
 westward. Between the cape and Castiloba the coast is all low and sandy,
 
 51 
 
 excepting a few rocky points, equally low with the rest, and of which one 
 extends outward to the distance of more than a cable's length. The Altos, 
 or Heights of Meca, to the north-eastward of Cape Trafalgar, are very level 
 on the summit, and appear to be divided into two parts, spotted with green 
 clumps, and a few patches of white sand. Three miles to the S. E. by 
 E. ^ E. of Cape Trafalgar is the tower of Meca. Between is seen a patch 
 of sand called the Boqueron, useful as a mark for the shoals in the offing. 
 Nearly a mile, E. by. S. from the tower of Cape Trafalgar, the beach is low, 
 and has a small creek, with some rocks lying before it ; this is called the 
 Barcadero of Meca, and here water may be obtained. Vessels may anchor 
 off this place, in a convenient depth, on clear ground, from N. W., North, 
 and N. E. winds. 
 
 SHOALS BETWEEN SANCTRI PETRI AND CAPE TRAFALGAR. The Juan 
 Vela is a large rock, lying at the distance of 3 miles, \V. S. from the 
 castle of Sanctri Petri : the depth over it is 2| fathoms. 
 
 The Haste Afuero, or the Outer Haste, lying 3 miles S. W. by W. from 
 Sanctri Petri, and 5 j miles from Cape Roche. It is a rocky shoal of 3 
 fathoms. Large ships should pass at considerable distance from, and 
 smaller vessels should not come near this shoal, for the sea rolls heavily, 
 and breaks over it with a swell. 
 
 The Marrajotes is a rocky shoal, about half a league in length, in a S. E. 
 by S. and N. W. by N. direction, with from 2 to 4 fathoms upon it. Its 
 N. W. point lies S. S. W., 2f miles from Sanctri Petri, and N. W. 3f miles 
 from Cape Roche. Its S. E. point lies S. ^ W., nearly 4 miles from Sanctri 
 Petri, and N. W. by W., 2 miles, from Cape Roche. On the extremities 
 are 4^ fathoms, and the sea generally breaks over them. To pass between 
 this reef and the land, keep the town of Conil shut in with Cape 
 Roche. 
 
 The Shoal of Cape Roche is a rocky shoal, having over it only 1^ fathom, 
 at low water. It lies at the distance of a mile, W. by N. from Cape Roche. 
 
 The Shoal of Conil is another rocky shoal, lying at the distance of 1^ 
 mile from shore, and its least depth appears to be two fathoms, varying 
 to 4| fathoms. Its north end lies with the look-out of Conil, N. E. ^ N., 
 distant 2| miles ; and the tower of Castiloba, E. N. E. f E., one mile and 
 three-quarters. 
 
 Sank, off Cape Trafalgar. This bank extends 1| mile, N. N. W. and 
 S. S. E., and lies at the distance of between 3 and 4 miles from the Cape. 
 Its least depth is 3 fathoms, but around it are from 8 to 10 fathoms, at a 
 short distance. The N. W. end bears N. W. by W. ^ W., 3| miles from 
 Cape Trafalgar ; and here the tower on that cape appears in a line with 
 the tower of Meca, while the tower on Cape Roche is in a line with the 
 Cabeza del Puerco, before described. The S. W. end bears "W. | N., 2| 
 miles from Cape Trafalgar, and S. S. W. from the tower of Conil. From 
 this end the tower of Trafalgar appears in a line with the sandy spot 
 called the Boqueron. 
 
 The Shoal of Aceytera is a reef of rocks, extending North and South, 
 about one mile, and about two cables' length in breadth. The least depth 
 is 1^ fathom at low water ; but in the intervals between the rocks there 
 is as much as 5 fathoms. The N. "W. end lies W. N. W. f W., nearly 2 
 miles from Cape Trafalgar ; and the S. E. end, "W. S. "W. f "W., at about 
 the same distance from that cape. On the north end the tower of Trafalgar 
 is in one with the Boqueron ; on its shoalest part the same tower is in a 
 line with the highest point of the high land of Meca. Between the shoal 
 of Aceytera and Cape Trafalgar, in an extent of half a mile, there seems 
 to be a boiling in the water, with the appearance of breakers. This is
 
 52 
 
 merely the effect of the counter currents, there being no danger, and it is 
 therefore called the Rioa, or Laughter of the Cape. 
 
 DIRECTIONS. In passing without, or on the outside of these shoals, it will 
 be sufficient to give the land, all along, an offing of one league and a half; 
 and thus you may run along, with safety, in from 17 to 14 fathoms ; due 
 allowance must, of course, be made for westerly and south-westerly winds. 
 Within the shoals there is a clear channel, of half a league in breadth, ex- 
 cepting off Cape Roche, where it does not exceed a mile ; any ship may 
 use it, as the least depth, close to the shoals or land, is 5^ fathoms ; and in 
 the middle the depth is generally from 1 1 to 9 fathoms ; bottom, sand, 
 gravel, and rock. If requisite to pass through this channel from the south- 
 ward, the best way is to keep within half a mile of Cape Trafalgar, and 
 about the same distance from shore, all the way thence to Sanctri Petri, 
 where you must stand off, until you bring the light-tower of St. Sebastian 
 N. E. by N., so as to avoid the reef already described, which lies 2^ miles, 
 S. S. W. from St. Sebastian's point. 
 
 Having entered the channel, between the shoals and land, you may 
 easily stand out to sea, should this be required ; only taking care to observe 
 the bearings of the land, and attending to the state of the tides, noting 
 that the flood sets very strong to the north-westward, and the ebb in a 
 contrary direction. During a heavy swell, with wind unsteady, it would 
 be imprudent to attempt the passage between Cape Trafalgar and the 
 shoal of Aceytera, as here the sea rolls deeply, and, should the wind fail, 
 you may be obliged to come to an anchor in an exposed situation, and on 
 bad ground. 
 
 Four miles and a half from Meca new tower is the Point of Sara ; be- 
 tween is the cove and river of Barbate, where there is clear anchorage, 
 but the river is narrow and shallow. Sara point is moderately high near 
 the sea, being the extremity of a mountain, having two towers, and other 
 buildings on its summit. Cape Camarinhal is low, having a watch-tower 
 erected on it, and rocks scattered about its point ; it forms the east point 
 of Sara bay, where, in moderate weather, small vessels may ride securely 
 enough. Cape Plata is the extremity of another mountain, with several 
 rocks about it. 
 
 PALOMA. Four miles and a half, S. E. ^ E., are the point and tower 
 of Paloma, having several rocks before it ; between is the bay or cove of 
 Balonia, where there is good anchorage half a cannon-shot from the shore. 
 About 3| miles from Paloma point is that of La Pena, having a tower 
 erected on it ; between is the bay of Valdebaqueros, which affords shelter 
 for small vessels. Four miles from La Pena is the chapel of St. Catalina, 
 with the town of Tarifa, and about two-thirds of a mile further is the island 
 of the same name. Tarifa is a small, low, and level island, distinguished 
 by a light-house. The channel on the north side is only a cable's length in 
 breadth, and has but a depth of 8 feet at low water ; the water, however, 
 outside, is deep. The Marroquina rock lies on the S. W. side, distant 
 half a musket-shot from the shore, and is sometimes covered ; there are 
 some shallows also on the western side, but the island is otherwise clean 
 all round. 
 
 THE CABEZOS SHOALS lie with the light-house of Tarifa, bearing S. E. f 
 E. about 5 miles distant, and Paloma tower North ; they are about a mile 
 in length, stretching in a S. E. and N. W. direction, having only 2 feet 
 over them at low water ; but at a short distance are 2 and 3, and a little 
 further on 8 and 10 fathoms. To avoid these dangers, bring the low sand 
 hills to the eastward of Meca, by Cape Plata, taking care in standing to 
 the northward that they do not become covered by the cape, until the
 
 53 
 
 chapel of Luz is open of the east end of the Sierre de Eumedia ; but keep 
 at a proper distance from the shore, as there is a rock lying between 
 the Cabezos and Point Pena, named La Piedra de Valdebaqueros, having 
 but 2 fathoms on it, and 4 to 6 fathoms near it ; this rock lies W. S. W. 
 from the tower of Pena, distant 1| mile, and N. W. by N. from the island 
 of Tarifa, distant 4 miles ; between this rock and the tower on Pena point 
 there is a channel above a mile broad, having in the middle 8 and 10 
 fathoms, sandy bottom ; to sail through it bring Paloma point in one with 
 Cape Plata. W. S. W. of the Cabezos, distant three-quarters of a mile, 
 is a new bank of 7 or 8 fathoms, running W. N. W. | N. and E. S. E. ^ S. ; 
 and between these and the Cabezos are 1 1 and 7 fathoms. Westerly winds 
 frequently form a whirlpool between it and the shore. 
 
 Half a mile N. W. of the Cabezos, and about 2^ miles from Point 
 Paloma lies the shoal of Arroya del Puerco, a narrow ledge of rocks, about 
 one mile in extent, with a depth over it of 3 fathoms, at three-quarters 
 flood ; between the shoal and the land are 14 to 18 fathoms, and between 
 it and the western part of the Cabezos 8 to 12 fathoms. With westerly 
 winds there is a whirlpool between this ledge and the land. THE THISBE 
 ROCKS, on which H. M. frigate " THISBE " struck in August, 1804, is a 
 reef lying S. by W. W., distant about 5 miles from Paloma tower, and 
 W. N. W. i W. 5| miles from Tarifa island : it has only 14 feet water. 
 Tarifa light-house E. ^ S. leads clear to the southward of this shoal. East 
 of St. Catalina is Camorro point, which is high, broad, and steep, with 
 rocks about it. Between the island and the town of Tarifa small vessels 
 may be sheltered from westerly winds, and, in fine weather, large vessels 
 may anchor to the eastward of the island, opposite the sea gate of the town, 
 in from 15 to 18 fathoms. 
 
 Point Gualmesi lies nearly 5 miles to the eastward of Tarifa light-house, 
 having a watch-tower on its summit, and a small cove on its eastern side ; 
 2| miles further is the east point of Azebuche. The land between these 
 points bends in to the northward, and within it stands the castle of Tolmo, 
 off which there is good anchorage for small vessels, and shelter from 
 northerly winds, in from 8 to 6 fathoms, good holding ground. One mile 
 beyond Point Azebuche is Point del Frayle, having also a watch-tower 
 standing on the slope of a hill ; close to the point is an islet which, in ap- 
 pearance, is said to resemble a friar, and has several rocks about it. On 
 the east side of the point is a small sandy cove, fit only for small vessels, 
 and sheltered from the north-westerly winds, with a castle for the defence 
 of the anchorage. Cape Carnero, or Cabrita point, lies about two miles 
 to the north-eastward of Punta Frayle ; and within it, on the S. W., is 
 Palomas, or Pigeon island, distant about three-quarters of a mile from the 
 watch-tower of Point Carnero. The island is low and ragged ; off its N. W. 
 part are the two Cabrita islands, and 1^ cable's length further west is a 
 cluster of small rocks, some above and others under water. 
 
 THE PEARL ROCK lies about l mile to the southward of Palomas 
 island; it has not more than 9 or 10 feet water on its shoalest part, but, 
 at two ships' length from it, it is surrounded by 7 to 9 fathoms. The 
 mark for the shoalest part is Pigeon or Palomas island in one with the 
 third rising from Carnero point ; a peaked rock, off the same point, in one 
 with a hill like a sugar loaf, with a small saddle on the top of it, which 
 stands to the eastward of St. Roque, and the tower on Point Frayle, 
 W. N. W. The channel between this rock and Palomas island may be 
 used with a leading wind, taking care to give the island a berth of 1^ 
 cable's length ; in this passage are 7, 8, and 9 fathoms water. In coming 
 from the westward you will have passed the Pearl, when you perceive the
 
 54. 
 
 town of St. Boquc (which is readily known, being seated on the top of a 
 small hill) over the rocks of Carnero point, or when that point bears 
 N. by E. you may run in for the bay of Gibraltar, giving the larboard 
 land a good berth, until you open the Devil's tower, towards which you 
 may steer and anchor in any depth from 20 to 5 fathoms. 
 
 SECTION II. 
 ISLANDS OF THE ATLANTIC. 
 
 THE AZORES, OR WESTERN ISLANDS, are situated between the 
 latitude of 39 45' and 36 57' N., and longitude 31 10' and 24 55' W. 
 They consist of nine islands, in three distinct groups, lying in the direction 
 of W. N. W. and E. S. E., and extending about 330 miles. The north- 
 western group contains the small islands of Corvo and Flores, distant about 
 114- miles from the- central group, which includes Terceira, St. George, 
 Pico, Fayal, and Graciosa. The third group, 69 miles to the S. E. of the 
 second, is composed of the two islands of St. Michael and St. Mary, and 
 the Formigas rocks. Doubts still exist with regard to a small island seen 
 by Pimento, the Portugese navigator, who calls it Topo : is is supposed to 
 be about 4 miles north of the S. E. point of St. George (Ponto de Topo) 
 and to be about 7 or 8 miles in circumference. This island is not generally 
 laid down in the charts, but is said to have been seen by an English ship 
 of late years. The general character of the islands is mountainous, of a 
 conical form, and great bulk ; the most remarkable among them is the 
 Peak of Pico, whose small sugar-loaf on its summit is so very regular as to 
 appear the work of art. In clear weather this island can be seen upwards 
 of 20 leagues. 
 
 On approaching the islands the aspect is unpromising, from the barren 
 appearance of the mountains, and the steep rocky coasts, which nearly 
 everywhere present high and craggy cliffs ; but a nearer view exhibits a 
 most luxuriant landscape of vineyards and corn-fields, interspersed with 
 orange and lemon orchards, and open pastures bounded by woods. ST. 
 MICHAEL is the largest island, and the residence of the bishop ; but ANGKA, 
 in TERCEIRA, is considered the capital of the group, and the seat of the 
 civil government. Among all the Azores there is not one good port for 
 vessels of burthen, all the anchorages being in open bays or roads, from 
 which ships are often obliged to put to sea at a very short notice. The 
 CHANNELS among the islands are clear and deep, but strong currents set 
 through them, and the Florida or Gulf Stream is at times sensibly felt 
 here. From the nature of the land, vessels are subject to sudden calms, 
 squalls, and eddy winds, by approaching too close to the shore. 
 
 The trade of the Azores was formerly a monopoly of Portugal, but it 
 has been thrown open to other countries, whence woollens, hardware, 
 boards, staves, pitch, tar, iron, &c., are imported ; in return for which wine 
 and fruits are the chief payments. From the mother country the payment 
 of its imports consisted principally in dispensations, indulgences, images of 
 saints, sacred relics, &c. 
 
 The climate is mild and pure. The winter, though attended with heavy 
 storms, is not severe, nor are the heats of summer oppressive, surrounded 
 as these islands are by such an expanse of ocean. The Portugese settlers 
 naturally introduced their own religion, manners, and customs, which their 
 almost undisturbed possession, and a similarity of climate to that of their
 
 55 
 
 own country have contributed to maintain. Regularly built towns, 
 handsome churches, large convents and monasteries, and the preva- 
 lence of whitewashing their buildings, are the same features as arc 
 found in Portugal. The population of the islands is computed to be 
 under 200,000 souls. 
 
 Couvo. This island is the north-westernmost of the Azores ; it is of 
 moderate height, intersected with hills, and may be seen, in clear weather, 
 about 10 or 12 leagues : there is a mountain at each extremity of the island, 
 which gives it the appearance of a saddle, when approaching it from N.W. 
 or S. E. The north coast is high and steep, having no symptom of culti- 
 vation ; about midway there is a rock, a cable's length from the shore, 
 over which the sea breaks ; the eastern side is also high, declining towards 
 the sea ; the western side is of a similar description. 
 
 About half-way down the western side is Point Blanca, and upwards of 
 one mile and a half from that is the low rocky point of Pesquiero Alto, 
 being the south point of the island ; the coast between forms a bay, in 
 which is a small beach, connected to a high islet ; the anchorage is in 30 
 fathoms, well sheltered from easterly winds, bottom of sand, which holds 
 well. A mile and a quarter, E. f S., from Pesquiero Alto is Point Puerto 
 Casa, on the north side of which t,iere is good anchorage in 25 to 30 
 fathoms. The CHANNEL between Corvo and Flores is very deep, and is 
 quite free of shoals or any dangers whatever. 
 
 FLORES. Point Albernas is the N. W. point of Flores ; it is of a red 
 colour, moderately high, and gradually sloping towards the sea ; the coast 
 to the eastward of it, as far as Point del Gada, is entirely surrounded with 
 rocks, and affords no anchorage ; the latter point is high level land, pro- 
 jecting but little, and having a cluster of islets at its base, extending a 
 quarter of a mile, with clear water around them. The north-east end of 
 Flores is named Point Ruiva, near to which is the islet of Azacar, or 
 Sugar-loaf, and westward of it is anchorage in 25 fathoms, well sheltered 
 from S. E. to S., and thence to W. S. W. Nearly 3 miles, S. f E. 
 (S. S. E. ^ E.) from Point Ruiva is Santa Cruz point, having the small 
 island of Alvaro Rodriguez between, with anchorage to the S. E. of it, in 
 35 or 36 fathoms. 
 
 Three-quarters of a mile to the south of the point is the CASTLE OP 
 SANTA CRUZ, near to which is the town of the same name, and the 
 principal port of the island. One mile and three-quarters from the castle is 
 Point Cabeira, low and rocky land, rising with a gentle acclivity to the 
 distance of a mile. Between these points the coast forms a bay, with a 
 beach and small river at the bottom of it. Here there is good anchorage 
 in 35 to 40 fathoms, sandy ground, well sheltered from all points between 
 N. N. E. by the West, to S. W. Loma is a high oblique point, distant 1^ 
 mile, S. W. i W. (S. S. W. f W.) from that of Cabeira; there is a bay 
 between, where a vessel may anchor in 25 fathoms, but it is not so well 
 sheltered as that just described, being open to easterly and southerly winds. 
 Four miles further is Point Lagens, from which a ridge of rocks extends to 
 the distance of a cable and a half, S. S. E. In the bay, on the north side 
 of this point, is situated the town of Lagens, having a large church, that 
 serves as a useful mark for the coast ; the anchorage is in 25 fathoms, 
 sandy ground. At 2^ miles, S. ^ W". (S. by E. ^ E.) from Lagens point 
 is a rock of 4^ fathoms, which appears like a large flagstone when near it : 
 the water around it is very deep, as well as the channel between it 
 and the shore. The coast increases in height to the westward of Lagens' 
 point, as far as Roca Alta, to the north of which is the highest land of the 
 island.
 
 56 
 
 Between Roca Alta and Point Ilheos, the S. "W. extremity, there is a 
 bay, with anchoring ground in 25 fathoms, sandy bottom. Point Ilheos is 
 low and rocky, having several islets near its base ; more than a mile to the 
 northward is Point Catarinas, distinguished also by some small islets ; and 
 If mile further is Point Bredos, a high sloping land, of a whitish appear- 
 ance, near which is an islet in the form of a column, with others near it ; 
 between the last named point and the former, there is anchorage in 20 to 
 25 fathoms, sandy bottom. Between Point Baxio, or Shoal point, which 
 is 2f miles to the northward, and Point Bredos, a vessel may anchor in 30 
 fathoms, and lie well sheltered towards the N. N. E., East, and South. 
 Baxio point is distinguished by the remarkable church of St. Pedro, or St. 
 Peter. Point Fanaes lies 2^ miles in a N. N. E. direction, having the 
 appearance of a mountain of a black colour. The bay between is that of 
 San Pedro, which has anchorage in 24 to 30 fathoms, sandy ground, and 
 where abundance of fresh water may easily be procured from a cascade 
 which falls from the mountains. N. W. f W. (W. N. W. W.) from 
 Point Fanaes is Monchique islet, separated from the shore by a deep 
 channel ; further on towards Albernas Point, already described, is that of 
 Maria Gadella, a high round islet, having anchorage W. f N. (W. by S.) 
 from it in 30 to 40 fathoms, sandy bottom. 
 
 Mr. E. May, master of H. M. P. Skylark, says, " At daylight bore up 
 for the bay of Fanaes ; at 5h. 30m. shortened sail and sent a boat for 
 water. Found a great surf on the beach, which consists of large stones, 
 none smaller than a man's head. These stones extend from the beach two 
 or three boats' lengths, making it dangerous for boats to land." 
 
 "The best landing place is a passage between a point of rocks that 
 lies to the south of the beach ; from thence you may procure water from 
 a fountain, about half a mile from the beach, employing small casks, 
 and at the rate of 3 to 5 tons per day by employing natives, if the weather 
 is fine, and the wind between S. S. E. and N. E. With any other wind, 
 particularly if blowing hard, there would be too much surf, and the passage 
 too narrow in such weather to enter. This place may be known by a very 
 high and steep mountain, a little to the left of the landing place, from 
 whence the island Monchique bears N. W., one mile and a half. Between 
 this island and the shore is a clear passage for any ship ; but she should 
 borrow towards the rock, as a reef projects about a cable's length from 
 them, although there are no hidden dangers in the passage." 
 
 " At this place, by the assistance of shore boats, about 4 tons of water 
 were obtained in 1 hours. The place abounds in poultry, sheep, pigs, 
 vegetables of all kinds, and eggs, all very cheap, and were freely exchanged, 
 by the natives, for old clothes. Those who came off to the ship were well 
 dressed, clean, healthy people. The shore of the island is bold, and may 
 be approached to the distance of a quarter of a mile. Leaving Fanaes, I 
 would recommend vessels to run due west, for two or three miles, to get 
 clear of the high land to the northward of the landing place, by which 
 they would avoid being becalmed under this land when the wind is from 
 N. E. to S. E., and would be enabled to run clear of the island. Corvo 
 has also a bold shore, and can be seen off deck 55 miles distant, as was 
 proved by us the day after leaving the island, both by log and observa- 
 tion." Nautical Magazine for 1842, page 153. 
 
 ISLAND OF FAYAL. The chief town of Fayal is named ORTA, 
 situated near the S. E. point of the island, where stands the hermitage of 
 Nuestra Senora de la Guia, to the west of which is the small sandy cove of 
 Port Pin, where small vessels often discharge and load in fine weather, as 
 it is well sheltered, except from the S. W. point. N. E. ^ E. (N. N.
 
 57 
 
 E. ^ E.) one mile and three-quarters from La Guia, is the northern point 
 of Orta bay, named Espalamaca ; here commences a beach of black sand, 
 which terminates at Mount Caimada. Orta is distinguished by two re- 
 markable buildings, which bear in a line nearly N. N. W. ; one of them is 
 called the Company's college, and stands near the sea side ; the other, the 
 Carmelite convent, is situate in the west end of the town : the safest 
 method of anchorage is to bring the former building a little to the south- 
 ward of the latter, with Point Joao Diaz (hereafter noticed) open a little 
 to the right of Point Espalamaca ; you will then be distant about a mile 
 and a quarter from the town, in 35 to 40 fathoms, bottom of sand. The 
 more general anchorage, however, in fine weather, is nearer the town, in 
 25 fathoms, with the buildings in the same direction ; or for smaller vessels 
 further in, to 20, 18, 16, and 15 fathoms. This anchorage, although 
 perhaps the best in the Azores, is, notwithstanding, much exposed both 
 from .the North to N. E., and S. E. to S. W., and winds from those quar- 
 ters are often frequent in winter ; that from the S. E. blows right in, 
 and is often destructive, it is therefore advisable to be always ready for a 
 start when occasion requires. 
 
 There is a shoal of 3^ fathoms, lying nearly in mid-channel, between 
 Fayal and Pico ; it extends in a N. E. and S. W. (N. N. E. and S. S. W.) 
 direction about 20 fathoms, and is about 10 fathoms broad ; it lies with the 
 college and convent in one, Point Espalamaca bearing N. by E. (N. by W.) 
 and La Guia hermitage N. W. N. (N. W. by W. f W.) Vessels coming 
 from the S. W. sail between it and the latter, or should circumstances 
 require it, the channel to the eastward, or between the shoal and Pico, is 
 equally safe. In approaching the road from the S. W., should the wind be 
 dying away from the eastward, and you intend to tack to gain the anchor- 
 age, keep within 1^ mile towards Pico, for further out the bottom is rocky 
 and will prevent your anchoring, should you require to do so ; you will 
 also thus be free of the variable eddy winds and calms, caused by the 
 neighbouring mountains. 
 
 Espalamaca is a high sloping point, having a small round front, with a 
 vigia, or look-out, on its summit ; about seven-eighths of a mile to the 
 northward, is Point Joao Diaz, which is low, black, and rocky, with some 
 rocks at its extremity ; the coast between is indented, and has a beach 
 with a church at the bottom of it, where vessels from port Magdalena, on 
 the opposite side, sometimes take shelter during violent gales from the 
 southward. About 2j miles, N. E. by N. (N. by E.) from Joao Diaz is the 
 N. E. point of Fayal, named RIVEIRINA, which is high and sloping, 
 forming a round front of half a mile ; at its extremity there is a low point 
 with three small islets : the coast between Joao Diaz and Riveirina forms 
 a slender bay ; the land is high and oblique, and presents, near the middle, 
 a remarkable slope of a red colour, which may be seen from the mid- 
 channel shoal. JORGE LORENZO is the northern point of Fayal, and 
 presents a high sloping appearance. On the west side of the island are 
 the Capelinos, two islets separated from the coast by a narrow channel, 
 through which fishing boats may pass in fine weather. The S. W. ex- 
 tremity of Fayal is Point Castelo Blanco, appearing like an island at a 
 distance, being sloped on all sides ; the coast hereabout is rocky to Santa 
 Catalina, which is a low black point, having a hermitage ; between it and 
 Guia point, distant 3f miles, is the cove of Feteira, where there is a small 
 village and several islets. 
 
 With respect to Fayal it may further be observed, that, although the 
 peak on the adjacent island is a conspicuous object, and may be seen, as we 
 have already noticed, at a very considerable distance, yet, it is not always
 
 58 
 
 to be depended upon, being occasionally bid for days successively, in cloudy 
 weather. 
 
 PICO. This island lies to the eastward of Fayal, being divided by a 
 channel, which we have previously noticed, and to which we again beg to 
 call the reader's attention ; a plan thereof is inserted on the chart, which is 
 also deserving of notice, and a view of the peak is given in our particular 
 chart of the Azores ; the island takes its name from this remarkable object, 
 whose summit is 1172 fathoms high. 
 
 The S. "W. and West coast of Pico is rocky, distinguished by several 
 rocky islets; towards the N. W. extremity are the Magdalena islands, 
 surrounded by rocks, with 6 to 8 fathoms water near them ; here there is 
 a small port and town, where the chief business between the island and 
 Fayal is carried on. Further to the N. W. is Point de los Baxios, from 
 whence breakers extend nearly a league in a gale ; from this point, to the 
 east end, the coast is so rugged as to be almost inaccessible. Point Isla is 
 the S. E. extremity of the island ; it is low and sloping, having a ridge 
 extending to the eastward nearly a cable's length. Five miles to the 
 eastward is Point Caleta, between which are the small harbours of 
 Manana and Nesquin, only fit for small craft. The coast continues rocky 
 to Point Arrife, which is distant nearly 7 miles ; 2^ miles further is the 
 town and lagoon of Lagens, joined to the sea by means of a bar, over 
 which coasters pass at high water. Five miles and a half from Lagens is 
 Point Catalina ; N. E. of which there is a place of shelter for fishermen. 
 
 ST. GEORGE, OR ST. JORGE, is separated from Pico by a safe 
 channel, 3 leagues wide. It is a long narrow island about 9 leagues in 
 length, while its average breadth does not exceed one. Off Point ,Rosales, 
 the west end of the island, are two high pyramidal islets, one at the foot 
 of the point, and the other half a mile S. W. of it. Some other islets lie 
 interspersed about it, and a rocky shoal of 7 fathoms is said to lie S. W. 
 of the same point. From hence the coast trends S. E. by S. (S. E. by E.) 
 to the Morro Grande, or High Hill, situate near the town of Velas, which 
 has a port well sheltered for small vessels ; to the N. W. of the Morro 
 there is an indent of the coast, which has sometimes been taken for the 
 port, and has, in consequence, proved fatal to many; the bottom is all 
 rocky, and a vessel once in cannot leave, without a change of wind. 
 
 Point la Camaida is a low point, with a small castle, distant about 1^ 
 mile from the Morro Grande, which is distinguished by a vigia, or look-out, 
 on its summit ; between the two points is the port of Velas, which, as we 
 have just stated, is well sheltered from most winds. The town is situated 
 at the bottom of the bay, and has a small mole on the S. E. side, within 
 which are 3 fathoms, rocky ground ; the common anchorage is therefore in 
 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, south of the mole, moored with two anchors 
 N. W. and S. E. . To the eastward of Caimada point the coast continues 
 low and rocky all the way to Point Montros, the S. E. extremity of the 
 island ; in the interval between, about 4 leagues from Velas, is the point 
 and town of Caleta, where a high mountain rises, and indeed the land in 
 the interior is generally of moderate height, although the coast is low. 
 The easternmost point is named Topo, around which, as well as the islet 
 to the eastward of it, are numerous rocks. From Point Topo to Point 
 del Norte Grande, the coast presents nothing remarkable, but has a low, 
 regular appearance ; from the latter point, however, to that of Rosales it is 
 more rugged and barren. 
 
 GRACIOSA. This island, though comparatively small, is considered 
 the most fertile of the Azores, and supplies many of the others with part of 
 its produce ; wood, however, is scarce, and is often imported from Pico, or
 
 50 
 
 St. George's. Point Pico Negro is the north point of the island ; it is high, 
 oblique, and of a black colour ; the coast to the S. W. to Point Pico is high 
 and rocky ; half a mile, S. W. by S., from the latter, is the low rocky 
 point of Jorge Gomez, distinguished by a church near to it ; 3f miles further 
 is Point Blanca, in the interval lies Point Frayle, rendered remarkable by 
 having a stone on its summit resembling a man. At S. E. \ S. (S. E. by 
 E. | E.) 2^ miles from Point Blanca is the point and town of Folgo, 
 situated in a bay between. We now reach Carapacho, the S. E. point, 
 which stands low towards the sea, though it is high and craggy at a short 
 distance inland. Several islets lie hereabout ; that named Abajo, is dis- 
 tant about two cables' length from the point, being divided by a safe 
 channel, through which, if necessary, a large ship may pass. With the 
 islet in a line, or a little open of the west end of Praya island, hereafter 
 noticed, there is good anchorage in 30 to 40 fathoms, well sheltered to the 
 westward ; this is off the southern extremity of a great slope of land, that 
 extends towards the point of Josef Ferrer, and where vessels commonly 
 load and unload their cargoes. 
 
 The coast between Carapacho and Point Fanaes, lying 1^ mile N. E. f N. 
 (N. 14 E.) is clean and regular; and l mile, N. E. (N. 15 W.) from 
 the latter is the low rocky point of Negra ; between is the bay and town 
 of Praya, with an island of the same name, lying half a mile East of Point 
 Negra; there is a passage between, and a cable and a half to the south- 
 ward of the islet is the anchorage. Three miles North (N. N. W.) 
 from Point Negra is the point of Josef Ferrer, so low as to be even with 
 the water, and having a dangerous shoal about a cable's length to the 
 eastward. On the west side of the point is SANTA CRUZ, the chief town 
 of the island, distinguished by three churches, on three small hills near 
 each other, and so conspicuous as to serve as a good mark for the north 
 side of Graciosa. 
 
 TERCEIRA. ANGRA is the chief city of the Azores, and stands on 
 the south side of Terceira island ; it is easily known by the remarkable 
 forked hill on the west side, named Mount Brazil, at the foot of which are 
 the strong forts of St. Juan and St. Antonio ; the Cabras, or Goat islands, 
 which lie about 4 miles to the eastward of the mount, will also serve to 
 recognise it. Ships should moor in a line with the forts of Antonio and 
 St. Sebastian, which is on the opposite, or N. E. side of the bay ; this is 
 necessary as it is open to all winds, from S. S. W. by the South to East, 
 and therefore unsafe when it blows from those quarters, particularly from 
 the S. W., which causes a tremendous swell. Larger ships anchor to the 
 eastward of Mount Brazil, in 30 to 40 fathoms, sandy bottom ; but it is 
 necessary to be always ready to start in case of necessity. On the west 
 side of the fort of St. Sebastian is a sandy beach, called Puerta da Pi pas, a 
 place of shelter for small craft, in case they should be prevented by the 
 sea from landing at the mole. 
 
 Vessels approaching the bay of Angra from the S. W., South, or S. E., 
 should steer directly for Mount Brazil ; and, with adverse winds, may tack 
 boldly without the bay, as the water is sufficiently deep up to the shore : 
 a calm, however, is to be dreaded, as the currents are strong and variable ; 
 we would not therefore recommend too near an approach, under such 
 circumstances, as it is an iron-bound coast, and a ship driven on it would 
 be placed in extreme hazard. 
 
 THE CABRAS, OR GOAT ISLANDS, already noticed, lie S. E. by E. 
 (E. by S.) 4 miles from Mount Brazil; they consist of two islets, the 
 eastern one being higher and larger than the other, and are separated 
 from the coast by a channel of 10 to 13 fathoms. About two miles to the
 
 60 
 
 south-eastward of these islets is another, called Los Frayles, or Friars, 
 having two pyramidal peaks : a shoal extends from the S. E. side of it, 
 about a cable's length, over which the sea breaks ; it is separated from 
 the Goat islands by a clear channel of upwards of 70 fathoms water. 
 
 PORT PRAYA is a large safe bay, on the east side of Terceira, in which 
 is situated a populous town of the same name, well defended by batteries. 
 The bay is quite exposed to the eastward, though it is well sheltered from 
 other points ; the safest anchorage is with the north point (Malmaranda) 
 in a line with an islet off its N. E. extremity, and the highest steeple, 
 which is the northernmost, open to the west : here is depth of 24> or 25 
 fathoms, sandy ground, or you may approach nearer the shore to 16 
 fathoms. The best landing place is near the castle. The EASTERN COAST 
 of Terceira is in general broken, rocky, and dangerous. Malmaranda is 
 the easternmost point ; it is high, and oblique, having a shoal near to it that 
 shows itself at low water. The NORTH and WEST COASTS are equally 
 inaccessible, and should not be approached by a stranger ; near the S. "W. 
 point is a small but remarkable mountain, called St. Barbara, with a vigia, 
 or look-out, on its summit. The western side is also distinguished by a 
 rugged mountain, called Pico de la Serrata, known by a great break on its 
 eastern side. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL. The westernmost point of St. Michael is that of 
 Ferraria, which is high and sloping, terminating in a rocky ridge, which 
 extends a league to the S. W. ; here is a depth of 8 to 10 fathoms, with a 
 heavy sea rising over it. To the N. E. is the little harbour of Mosteiros, 
 with some remarkable islets near it ; the largest is high, sloped, and smooth 
 at its summit, with an aperture, through which the sea passes, from one 
 side to the other. Between Point Mosteiros and Point da Bretanha is the 
 bay of Joam Bom ; the coast hereabout is high and rocky, and is further 
 distinguished by a sharp point, called the Peak of Maffa. We now reach 
 Ribeira Grande, a rich town, but there is no anchorage, or harbour, nor 
 even landing, except when the sea is very smooth.* From hence to the 
 N. E. extremity, Point Riviera, there is no place of consequence. On the 
 east side is the small port of Arnel, but it affords indifferent shelter, and 
 the ground is bad. 
 
 VILLA FRANCA, on the south side of St. Michael, is situated on a beach, 
 which forms a very small bight. The channel between the islet Ilheo 
 and coast is of the width of three cables' length, and is its principal 
 anchorage ; it has 10 and 11 fathoms of water, sandy bottom, and vessels 
 moor North and South, with a hawser on shore, on the islet; but the 
 latter, owing to its diminutive size, does not shelter a vessel from the wind 
 and sea, between E. S. E. by South, to S. S. W. The Ilheo, is a remark- 
 able volcanic rock, having a circular basin in its centre, with an entrance 
 to it fronting the town : small vessels often enter here to careen, or take 
 
 * POBT OF CAPELLAS. Persons having stated that the bottom on the north side of St. 
 Michael is foul in the anchoring depths, and that no vessel would he likely to recover her 
 anchor if she brought up there, I thought it my duty to take the earliest opportunity of 
 proceeding thither, with the Agent for Lloyd's at this port, for the purpose of ascertaining the 
 truth of these assertions. 
 
 The result of our survey was, that, at about half a mile distant from the shore, between 
 Ribiera Grande and Capellas, there is a line, which, with occasional projections towards the 
 land, separates the foul and stony bottom of the coast from a perfectly smooth and firm bed 
 of fine sand, sloping to seaward; that along this line the depth varies from 25 to 35 fathoms, 
 and that, from the rugged nature of the coast itself, the small port of CapeHas is the only 
 part at which it would be safe for boats to disembark. 
 
 T. C. HUNT. 
 
 British Consulate, St. Michael, 24th Dec., 1841.
 
 61 
 
 shelter in a gale ; but it seems, from recent information, to be filling up 
 with sand. 
 
 THE CITY OF ST. MICHAEL'S, OR PONTA DEL GADA, stands to the 
 westward of Villa Franca, and though it has but an open roadstead for 
 large ships to ride in, yet it is well sheltered, except during gales from 
 W. N. TV", to E. S. E. There is a mole for the protection of small vessels. 
 Should you be forced to quit the anthorage, in a southerly gale, it will at 
 all times be more prudent to round the west end of the island, than run 
 to the southward, as a N. TV. wind will commonly follow that from the 
 opposite quarter. In beating up you may kep close in shore, avoiding 
 only the rocks that lie off Point Galera, which lies on the east side, and 
 is distinguished by a light-house, hereafter described. 
 
 The city of Ponta del Gada is distinguished by a light-house, at the top 
 of the cathedral steeple, at an elevation of 110 feet above the surface of the 
 sea, lighted with eight gas lamps and reflectors. On Point Galera there is 
 another light-house erected, bearing S. E. by E. from the cathedral lights, 
 distant 9 miles ; and on a peak, situated at the S. W. quarter of the island, 
 near Point Ferreira, is a third light-house. These lights are shewn every 
 night throughout the year, from half an hour after sunset to half an hour 
 before sunrise. They are, however, we are informed, but poorly illumi- 
 nated, and cannot be seen upwards of 2 or 3 leagues. 
 
 THE COASTS OF ST. MICHAEL are all bold, and may be approached 
 without fear, as all the dangers lie within a furlong of the shore, with the 
 exception of those half a mile from the bay of Mosteiros, and those already 
 noticed. Approaching from the westward, the N. TV. end of the island 
 has an unpromising appearance, as it presents but barren mountains of 
 stupendous bulk, with a steep barren coast, surmounted by a few trees of 
 slender growth. Approaching from the eastward, for the city of St. 
 Michael, take care to give Point Galera a good offing, not only on account 
 of the rocks, which have before been mentioned, but the high land behind 
 often occasions a calm thereabout. During the winter months heavy squalls 
 are often frequent, from S. W. to N. TV., more particularly from the 
 latter quarter. 
 
 ISLAND OF ST. MARY. The north side of St. Mary's affords 
 neither shelter nor anchorage ; its N. E. point is that of Lagoenas, which 
 has an islet of the same name off it ; this appears high and sloped, like a 
 mitre, and when seen in an east and west direction, exhibits a small level 
 point extending a little way into the sea ; the passage between the island 
 and the shore is obstructed by a rock, that lies in the midway. Port St. 
 Lorenzo is formed by a high islet of that name, and Point Matos, distant 
 one mile to the northward : here there is anchorage in 20 fathoms, sandy 
 bottom, and water is easily procured by making pits in the beach. This 
 place is distinguished by a church with several houses around it. 
 
 Point Cedros is distant 4| miles, S. by E. (S. E. by S.) from Point 
 Matos, and 2^ miles further is that of Castelo, the S. E. point of the island ; 
 between these is a small point, off which is a rock, called Baja de Malla, 
 separated from the coast by a clear passage 3 or 4 cables' wide, with a 
 depth of 12 fathoms in mid-channel. Point Castelo is high, with a break 
 that forms in a peak like a sentry box : a vessel may anchor with the point 
 bearing S. TV. by S. (S. by TV.) in 10 fathoms, sandy bottom. 
 
 The town of ST. MARY'S is on the south side of the isl>.d, towards the 
 west, on a bay in which there is a small island ; the anchorage is between 
 this and the shore, in 5 and G fathoms. The bottom is mostly sandy, but 
 towards the western side there are some rocky parts : the road is open, 
 and exposed to southerly gales, and is, consequently, chiefly resorted to by
 
 62 
 
 small vessels, and that in the summer season. The coast from Point 
 Marban, the easternmost of the bay, to Point Pedrera is very regular, and 
 is called Figueral, on the top of which is a rugged, though not a very high 
 mountain. Further to the eastward is Malbasca point, distant about 2 
 miles from Point Castelo ; here there is good anchorage, about a mile from 
 the coast, in a line with Point Malbasca, and the castle, at the S. W. part 
 of the town of St. Mary's, entirely open of Marban point ; you will lie in 
 36 fathoms, sandy bottom, to the eastward of which the ground is foul. 
 The west side of St. Mary's island is low, level, and uniform ; the eastern 
 side is higher- and more broken, having several peaks and mountains, the 
 most elevated of which is that called the Pico Alto, or High Peak. The 
 coasts in general are clear, bold, and may be approached with safety. 
 
 THE FORMIGAS, OR ANTS, to the north-eastward of St. Mary's, together 
 with the Tuiloch Rocks, will be included in a following section. It may 
 here be sufficient to observe, that they consist of a group of seven or eight 
 rocks, extending about three-quarters of a mile N. N. E. and S. S. W. ; 
 and between them and St. Mary's no bottom was found at a depth of 120 
 fathoms, until within a quarter of a mile of the island. 
 
 TIDES. It is high water at St. Michael's, on the full and change of the 
 moon, at 12h. 30m.; springs rise 7 feet. The tide is regular, and the flood 
 sets to the eastward. In the offing it continues three hours later than on 
 the shore. It is high water at Angra, at llh. 45m. ; springs rise 6 feet : 
 at Fayal, llh. 30m.; springs 4^ feet. The VARIATION at St. Michael's 
 is 25 W. ; at Flores 18| W. 
 
 EXTRACT OP A LETTER FROM THE BRITISH CONSUL AT THE AZORES, 
 
 RELATIVE TO THE COURSES OP GALES OF WlND AT THOSE ISLANDS. 
 
 Nautical Magazine, for 1842, page 145. 
 
 " The regularity with which gales enter these seas in the N. W. quarter, 
 and after crossing them disappear at the S. E., is a circumstance, the know- 
 ledge of which may be serviceable to the commanders of ships sailing 
 across the Atlantic." 
 
 " It seems highly probable, that if a ship were overtaken by a gale of 
 wind in the current of the gulf stream, near the Azores, (for the storms 
 appear to be guided by this current), she could sooner be extricated from 
 it by steering due north or south, than by any other course ; that if she 
 went to the eastward she would accompany the gale, and be overtaken 
 by the greater violence of its centre ; and that in steering to the westward 
 she would run through the whole gale, and perhaps be immediately after- 
 wards caught in a new one." 
 
 " Another suggestion occurs to me, which I offer with great diffidence, 
 as it is founded on the observation of one set of instruments, without that 
 confirmation which would be so desirable from the other islands, but which 
 is deserving investigation. The centre of a gale, in its approach, always 
 effects a descent on the barometer, and a change in the fall of rain. In its 
 actual passage over the instrument, the descent generally reaches 28.50, 
 from which a rise of one-tenth appears to take place for every ten miles' 
 removal of the centre ; so that the number of miles distance from the 
 centre of an approaching gale, might perhaps be indicated by the number 
 of hundredths shewn by the barometer over the extreme of 28.50." 
 
 " The difference in the fall of rain, also, has its regularity ; the approach 
 of the centre, bringing a temporary increase, and then a cessation of the 
 rain, which is renewed, and in a reversed order diminished on the removal of 
 the centre. According to the observations made at this office, there ap- 
 pears to be in every gale of wind, a zone of rain, about 120 miles in 
 breadth, heaviest on the inner edge, which is about 60 miles distant from
 
 63 
 
 the centre ; that the fall decreases in proportion to the distance from this 
 line ; and that the fall on the inner edge being about twelve-hundredths of 
 an inch per hour, the decrease is about one-hundredth for every 10 miles 
 of removal from that line." 
 
 The descent of the barometer, and the heaviness of the rain, would 
 therefore give the commanders of ships pretty accurate indications of the 
 proximity of the most dangerous part of the gale of wind. 
 
 The courses of storms having been traced by Colonel Reid, in his recent 
 work on the subject, from the tropics to the fortieth degree of north lati- 
 tude, with their courses pointing towards the Azores, it was desirable to 
 know if these courses were not continued across the Atlantic, and if the 
 frequency and violence of gales of wind in the Azores were not due to a 
 tropical origin. With this view, regular daily tables of the direction and 
 force of winds have been kept by the British Vice Consuls, since the month 
 of May, 1840 ; from which has been compiled the following table of the 
 courses of twenty gales of wind, which have blown across the Azores since 
 that time. An account has been kept of other gales, but it has been found 
 impossible, from their crossing and neutralising each other, to trace them 
 correctly, and they have, therefore, not been admitted into the present 
 report. 
 
 The first gale which comes under consideration is, the minor one of the 
 4th and 5th of June, 1840. This gale was felt simultaneously at Flores 
 and Terceira, but with less violence at the latter than the former place. 
 It was not felt at St. Michael's, until (4th, 19 h.) 7 P. M. on the 4th, 13 
 hours after its touching Terceira. The distance from the first known point 
 of its course to Terceira, which is 300 miles, may therefore be considered 
 half the diameter of its circle. 
 
 The second gale took a course so far to the northward of the islands, 
 that little of it could be traced. On the 1 9th, it did not reach St. Mary's, 
 although felt at St. Michael's, which would indicate that the half diameter 
 of its circle was 400 miles. 
 
 The third gale took a course directly across the Azores. It ceased to be 
 felt at FJores, on the evening of the 5th, when it was blowing with great 
 violence at St. Michael's, over which the centre passed that day. The half 
 diameter of its circle would, therefore, be about the distance from Flores 
 to St. Michael's, or about 360 miles. 
 
 The fourth gale came from a more northerly direction, and was felt at 
 Flores. Its greatest force was experienced at St. Michael's and St. Mary's, 
 from their greater proximity to the centre. It was not felt at Terceira on 
 the 8th, so that its half diameter was perhaps the distance from that 
 island, to the point of its course, on the morning of the 8th, or 440 miles. 
 
 The fifth gale was first felt on the 9th, at Fayal and Terceira, probably 
 before daylight. On the morning of that day, its violence was as great at 
 St. Michael's as at the other isle. This circumstance renders it probable 
 that its half diameter did not exceed 300 miles. From which fact, con- 
 nected with the greater velocity of its onward progress, the conclusion 
 arises, that the velocity of a gale, in the progress of its centre, is in an in- 
 verse ratio to its diameter. 
 
 The sixth gale was felt at Flores with violence, characteristic of the 
 storms experienced near that island, but which became less as the gale 
 receded. It followed the ordinary inclination towards the S. E. of the 
 Azores, until the morning of the 5th, when it was suddenly deflected to 
 the westward, running a zigzag course until the morning of the 9th, and 
 then continuing its original inclination to the S. E. The cause of this ir- 
 regular deviation it is difficult to divine. It can be scarcely attributed to
 
 64 
 
 the resistance of another gale, as the rotary motion of winds in these 
 latitudes, on their polar side from east to west, and therefore not op- 
 posed to gales tending to the eastward ; and as (to be shown hereafter) 
 the storms which pass over the Azores never return toward the north and 
 west. This gale was felt at Flores until the 10th, when it was succeeded 
 by the first indications of another. This circumstance would make the 
 half diameter of its circle (as in the case of the third gale) the distance 
 from St. Michael's to Flores, or 340 miles. 
 
 The seventh gale was felt at Flores on the llth, and ceased to be felt 
 there on the evening of the 12th. According to this circumstance, the 
 half diameter would appear to be the distance of the gale's centre, at 
 3 P. M. on the 12th, to Flores, or 300 miles. The progressive velocity of 
 this gale was greater than usual, being 12 miles an hour. This diminished 
 diameter also accounts for the gale's disappearance from the Azores, after 
 the evening of the 12th. 
 
 The eighth gale commenced with the usual violence at Flores, where it 
 was felt until the 17th, when a change took place in the wind, indicating 
 the departure of the gale. It was not felt at Fayal after the 19th, and its 
 half diameter may be therefore stated at the distance of its centre, on the 
 the 17th, from Flores, or, on the 19th, from Fayal. This is about 400 
 miles. 
 
 The ninth gale is one of those, the courses of which are disturbed by 
 some unknown cause. In this case, it is not unlikely to have been its 
 union with the vortex of another gale, from a more northerly direction, a 
 supposition which might be strengthened by the fact, that after its deflec- 
 tion, on the morning of the 1st, it was given a degree of rotary force 
 which it had not shown in the previous parts of its course. Its progressive 
 speed was also diminished, and did not again increase until, on the 2nd, it 
 resumed' its previous direction. This gale was not felt at Terceira on the 
 3rd, and its half diameter may, therefore, be estimated at the distance of 
 its centre from the island, on that day, or 360 miles. 
 
 The tenth gale set in on the 6th, coming from a north-westerly direc- 
 tion, continued a south-easterly course until the 9th, and was then 
 diverted, during 24 hours, without any change in its course, until the llth, 
 when it returned to its first direction. It was not felt at Flores on the 9th, 
 and therefore its half diameter was probably 330 miles. The progressive 
 velocity of this gale was also lessened by the same cause which deflected 
 it from its first course. 
 
 The eleventh gale was very much disturbed after its first appearance at 
 Flores, from which it, on the 12th, was turned to the south and west. 
 Here, on the 13th, it was met by, and received its force from a westerly 
 gale, also of much greater progressive velocity. On the 14th, it suffered 
 another deflection during 24 hours, with a diminution of its progressive 
 velocity ; after which it again took its original direction towards the east. 
 This "gale was not felt at Flores on the evening of the 14th, and its half 
 diameter was therefore probably 280 miles. 
 
 The twelfth gale was first felt with but moderate force at Flores, on the 
 4th of December, which did not increase until the 16th. On the morning 
 of that day, it suffered a deflection from a more northerly direction, which 
 increased its rotary force, without affecting its progressive velocity. On 
 the evening of the 16th, it ceased to be felt at Flores, so that its half dia- 
 meter may be taken at the distance of its centre, at that time, at Flores. 
 or 280 miles. 
 
 The thirteenth gale was one of great progressive velocity, moving, on 
 the 27th and 28th of December, at the rate of 13 miles an hour. As might
 
 65 
 
 be expected, its diameter was not so great as usual, being felt at Fayal, 
 Terceira, and Flores, on the 27th, and not until the 28th at St. Michael's. 
 Its half diameter is, therefore, the distance from its centre, on the 27th, to 
 Terceira, or 260 miles. 
 
 The fourteenth gale, although felt at Flores and Fayal, blew with the 
 greatest violence in its passage over St. Michael's, where it caused the 
 wreck of two ships. In the harbour of Terceira, which has the same ex- 
 posure as St. Michael's, the ships lying at anchor were not disturbed. 
 There are no means of ascertaining the diameter of this gale; but, judging 
 of its progressive velocity, it must have been less than usual. 
 
 The fifteenth gale was felt at Flores and Fayal, on the morning of the 
 3rd, but not at Terceira. Its half diameter could not, therefore, have ex- 
 ceeded 280 miles, its progressive velocity being more than 9 miles an 
 hour : it passed to the north of the islands. 
 
 The sixteenth gale was of moderate force, and does not tend to develope 
 any general results. It cannot be traced beyond the third day, when it 
 had only proceeded 300 miles. Its half diameter was probably not less than 
 440 miles. 
 
 The seventeenth gale, which was felt severely at Flores, on the 6th, had 
 on that day reached Terceira, but it was blowing strong at Fayal. This 
 gives an indication of its diameter, the radius of which must at this time 
 have been 320 miles. On the 7th, it suffered a diversion to the eastward, 
 and lost force in its onward progress. On the 8th, it appears to have met 
 another interruption from the eastward, and its progress on that day was 
 very considerably lessened. It appears to have been overcome by this in- 
 terruption on the 9th, and deflected to the westward, when the small pro- 
 gress that it made attests the conflict between the gale and the interrupting 
 cause. On the 10th it overcame this diversion, and proceeded in its 
 original direction to the eastward. The disturbance was not productive of 
 such squally, frequent, and sudden changes of wind in its neighbourhood, 
 as would have been the case, if the disturbing cause had been a gale coming 
 in an opposite direction. This gale ceased to be felt at Flores on the 10th, 
 making its half diameter about 230 miles, in the latter part of its course. 
 
 The eighteenth was a deflected gale, losing progress as usual during its 
 diversion. On the morning of the 21st, it had disappeared from Flores, 
 and its half diameter may therefore be taken at 270 miles. The recovery 
 of its primary direction, on the 21st, restored its progressive velocity, 
 which it is probable was further increased on the 22nd, when it ceased to 
 be felt at Terceira, and its half diameter had diminished to 250 miles. 
 
 The nineteenth gale, in the regularity of its progress, is a confirmation 
 of the effect of deflection on the courses of storms. It passed across the 
 centre of the Azores, at a regular rate of 8 or 9 miles per hour, disappearing 
 from Flores during the 9th of September, when its centre was about 300 
 miles distant. 
 
 The twentieth was deflected on the morning of the 19th of September, 
 and took a new course to the south with diminished velocity. On the 21st, 
 it recovered its first direction, but does not appear to have regained its 
 original velocity. This gale was but little felt at Fayal on the 18th, and 
 disappeared there during the day. Its half diameter was therefore about 
 350 miles. 
 
 Having thus given the particulars of the twenty gales, of which the 
 courses have been accurately observed, during the years 1840 and 1841, 
 there appear to be some general conclusions which may be deduced from 
 them. The first circumstance developed by the enquiry is the general 
 direction of storms passing across the Azores. This is invariably from
 
 66 
 
 N. W. to S. E., a conclusion \vith which the second, seventh, fifteenth, 
 sixteenth, and seventeenth gales of the accompanying table would undoubt- 
 edly be found to agree, if their investigation could be carried further. 
 
 The coincidence of this course with the Great Atlantic Current, which 
 is a continuation of the Gulf Stream, which may every day be traced to 
 the neighbourhood of the Azores, and which the sudden rise of water in 
 those islands (where, having been hastened by a gale, it is suddenly 
 checked in any locality by the operation of the wind, accompanied by a 
 diminution of atmospheric pressure,) proves to be sensibly carried beyond 
 them, goes very far to identify the Azorean storms with the tropical gales 
 and hurricanes, traced in the able work of Col. Reid, from the South 
 American coast, along the course of the Gulf Stream to Cape Hatteras, in 
 North America. There is a further resemblance in their diameters. In 
 the chart, which Col. Reid has composed, of the great hurricane of October 
 the 10th, 1780, the diameter given to it, in the latitude of the Azores, is 
 about 550 miles. Of the Azorean gales under consideration, four were 
 about this diameter ; eleven of about or under 650, and five under 900. 
 
 With respect to navigators, for whose benefit these enquiries are chiefly 
 intended, the use which may be made of this knowledge of the courses 
 taken by storms across the Azores, is in the direction of vessels which may 
 be reached by them. It seems probable, that if a ship were caught by a 
 violent gale in the current of the Gulf Stream, near the Azores, her best 
 course would be to steer, so far as the veering of the wind would allow, 
 due north or south ; that if she steered to the eastward, she would ac- 
 company the gale, and be overtaken by the greater violence of its centre ; 
 and that by steering to the west, she would sooner meet the centre, or run 
 into a new gale. 
 
 "Whatever may be the cause of the occasional deflection of the Azorean 
 storms, whether it arises from collision with another storm, or from atmos- 
 pheric gravitation, (the radiation of heat from the islands being at all times 
 very great,) the uniform effect appears to be a diminution of their pro- 
 gressive velocity, and frequently an increase of their rotary force. 
 
 But as far as these effects can be foreseen, from a knowledge of the de- 
 flection, (presuming it always to be accompanied by a slower progression,) 
 it is worthy of observation, that the deflection never appears to take a turn 
 to the northward, but always to the south. If this be true, the safest 
 course for a ship in these gales is to the north, unless there are very cogent 
 reasons for a departure from this presumed rule. 
 
 I cannot close this report without regretting that there are no means, in 
 the upper islands of the Azores, of combining the observations upon which 
 it is founded with barometrical notices. 
 
 There are many barometers in St. Michael's, but not one in either of the 
 other islands. The facts of this nature, developed by one barometer, are 
 not of much importance ; but by comparing the result of these observa- 
 tions, made at the same hour in the different islands, during the passage of 
 a gale, it is likely that valuable conclusions might be elicited from them. 
 There is, indeed, no country so well adapted for the collection of informa- 
 tion, for the developement of the laws of storms, and meteorological changes. 
 The islands, nine in number, are so scattered over a considerable region of 
 the Atlantic, and separated by such distances as to receive, at the same 
 hour, different atmospheric phenomena. Were it the wish of government 
 to obtain meteorological information from this part of the Atlantic, a mo- 
 derate remuneration would secure regularity in the registers of the Vice- 
 Consuls, salaried or unsalaried ; and they might, at no great expense, be 
 furnished with wind-dials, barometers, sympiesometers, and hygrometers,
 
 67 
 
 (the latter of which would be useful in determining the origin of a gale,*) 
 for the purpose of rendering their observations complete 
 
 THE MADEIRAS. 
 
 PORTO SANTO. Ships from Europe, bound to Madeira, are recom- 
 mended to make the island of Porto Santo, which lies 40 miles N. E. It 
 is very remarkable, and may easily be discriminated from Madeira, by its 
 appearing as three large high hummocks, which are discerned in fine 
 weather as far distant as 20 leagues. It has on the S. W. side a roadstead, 
 equal in many respects to Funchal, where there is a neat little town that 
 produces refreshments, and plenty of water. "With the exception of a few 
 pines and palms, Porto Santo is destitute of wood. There is not even brush- 
 wood. For fuel, therefore, the inhabitants depend on Madeira. The island 
 is occasionally used as a place of exile from the same place. Large boats 
 trade between Porto Santo and Madeira. Between the two isles the pre- 
 vailing wind is generally from the N. E. 
 
 To the northward of Porto Santo, about 9 miles, there is a ledge of rocks 
 on a bank extending east and west, terminating in a reef; these are called 
 the Falcon Rocks ; they are steep-to, and the shoalest part (on which are 
 44 fathoms) lies with the N. E. point of Porto Santo, bearing S. S. E. ; the 
 Ilheo da Fonte, or northernmost rock, S. by "W. ; and the west point of 
 the island, S. S. W. Some rocky ground, of 40 fathoms, lies about 3 miles 
 to the E. S. E. of Ilheo de Serra, the south-eastern islet of Porto Santo. 
 
 The DESERTAS, which derive their appellation from being uninhabited, 
 are three long rocky islands, lying in a north and south (N. N. W. and 
 S. S. E.) direction. When they bear W. by N. they appear separate, 
 Bujio, or the southernmost of which, is the smallest. The northernmost 
 islet looks like a low wall at a distance ; near it is a high rock called the 
 Pyramid, which has frequently been mistaken for a ship under sail. There 
 is a free passage between the two large Desertas, which, however, ought 
 not to be attempted, except in cases of emergency or dire necessity. But 
 between Madeira and these islands there is a fine open channel, 8 miles in 
 breadth, having no danger but what is seen, and a strong current setting 
 through to the S. W. It is always advisable for vessels coming from the 
 eastward, with the wind N. E., to frequent this channel ; particularly as 
 N. E. winds often produce eddies from the mountains, sufficiently strong 
 to prevent ships approaching from the eastward, and, indeed, to blow them 
 off altogether. Steer, therefore, as near mid-channel as possible, without 
 too soon borrowing on the Madeira shore, where you are liable to be an- 
 noyed by the calms and eddies off Brazen Head. 
 
 MADEIRA. This island is one mass T>f basalt, rising with a rather 
 steep ascent from the south, and from the north towards the interior, where 
 the highest part of the mass runs from south of east to the north of west, 
 between Cape de S. Lourenco, on the east, to Cape de Pargo, on the west. 
 This, the most elevated portion of the rock, rises to 4000 and 5000 feet ; 
 the Pico Ruivo, the highest summit, attains 5993 feet above the sea-level. 
 
 * In the Azores, a southerly wind creates great humidity in the atmosphere, a northerly 
 wind removes it. Under the former influence, there is frequently two per cent, of water in the 
 air, under the latter, less than one. At Hores such an instrument would give the most 
 valuable results, in showing whether the gale passing had come from the south, where the 
 heated air takes up moisture, or from the north, where & different condition repels it.
 
 68 
 
 Both declivities of the mountain -mass are furrowed by deep and generally 
 narrow valleys and depressions, traversed by streams of clear water. These 
 valleys contain the gardens and vineyards. The vineyards are formed on 
 the declivities of the rocks, to the height of 2300 feet above the sea. The 
 rocks in most places come down to the very shore of the sea, and enter it 
 with so rapid a descent, that soundings are to be only found close to the 
 shores, and even there on a rocky and unequal ground, and at a depth of 
 35 to 50 fathoms. 
 
 The climate of Madeira is very mild. The mean temperature of the 
 year does not exceed 68. In the months of December and January, the 
 thermometer rarely sinks below 60, the mean temperature of that season 
 being 63. The mean temperature of the hottest months (August and 
 September) is between 73 and 74 ; but when the eastern and south- 
 eastern winds bring to the island the hot air from the African desert, the 
 thermometer sometimes rises as high as 85, and even 90. Rain is not 
 confined to a certain season of the year, but occurs at all seasons. Madeira 
 sometimes suffers from hurricanes. The climate is considered very healthy, 
 and many persons in England, who are suffering from, or in danger of con- 
 sumption, withdraw to it, for the purpose of diminishing their sufferings 
 and prolonging their life. 
 
 The capital of the island is FUNCHAL, on the S. E. coast. It consists of 
 a pretty wide street along the sea-shore, where there are several good 
 buildings, and numerous small lanes, which extend to a considerable dis- 
 tance up the slope of the hill. The number of houses amounts to about 
 2000, and that of the inhabitants to 20,000. The town is defended by- 
 four forts, and has eight churches and several convents. In the midst of 
 the town is an open square, planted with exotic trees, as draccena draco, 
 jasminum azoricum, and datura arbosea. The population of the island 
 is estimated at 80,000, and are a very industrious and enterprising 
 people. 
 
 THE BAY OF FUNCHAL is formed on the west by the Pico and Point de 
 Cruz, and on the east by Cape Gerajao, or the Brazen Head : the last, al- 
 though not the loftiest of the mountains, yet, by its projection, it forms 
 the eastern horn of the bay, and becomes an object of attraction to vessels 
 having to round its point. Having left the Desertas, and steering for the 
 Road of Funchal, it will soon be perceived, Loo Rock and castle appearing 
 to the westward of the town : this brought in a line with the citadel, or 
 Peak castle, bearing about N. N. E. E., and Funchal steeple N. E. N., 
 affords good anchorage in 35 fathoms ; or you may anchor in 20 to 30 
 fathoms, distant half a mile from the Loo Rock, with the citadel a little 
 open to the eastward. When blowing fresh from the S. W., the citadel, 
 or Peak castle, well open to the westward, is considered a good berth. The 
 ROAD OF FONCHAL is quite exposed from the West to S. E., consequently 
 from these points the winds are strongest, and ships, on the appearance of 
 a menacing atmosphere to the southward or the S. W., ought to take every 
 precaution, and be in readiness to go out of the roads at a moment's 
 warning. 
 
 In summer, there are regular land and sea breezes ; the latter setting in 
 from the S. W. in the forenoon, and off shore towards 9 or 10 o'clock in 
 the evening, sometimes as late as midnight. The land breezes do not ex- 
 tend more than 2 or 3 miles from the shore ; but when it blows fresh in 
 the offing, the true wind prevails in the road. The rainy season is in 
 January, February, and March, when it blows sometimes excessively hard, 
 at which season it is frequently dangerous to remain at the anchorage ; 
 and during this period of the year, the surfs on the beach are so incredibly
 
 69 
 
 violent, as to prevent a possibility of landing anywhere but behind the 
 Loo Rock. 
 
 Sailing out of Funchal, you should particularly observe to make sail 
 with the land wind, standing directly out to the offing, on account of calms 
 which prevail under the West and S. "W. parts of the island, which have 
 been known to detain vessels for some days. 
 
 Although MADEIRA is an elevated island, with the exception of the 
 eastern end, which is a low rugged point, yet it is often so obscured by 
 clouds as not to be discerned at a distance of 5 leagues ; but when abreast 
 of Porto Santo, it commonly appears like a vast mountain, with its summit 
 covered over. The Desertas are shortly afterwards seen, and when you 
 pass those islands, the ships in the road of Funchal will soon be perceived. 
 From their riding, it will be seen how the wind is in the road, as it is 
 common to have a strong breeze from N. E. or East, in passing the De- 
 sertas, when at the same time, the wind in the road is from the S. W. 
 or W. S. W. 
 
 PORT REGULATIONS. On anchoring at Funchal Roads, no vessel can 
 have communication with the shore, or the shipping in port, until visited 
 by a flag-boat from the government, or from the health office. But 
 in case of distress, when a vessel does not intend to anchor, and wants 
 to have communication with the shore, her boat, by proceeding to the Loo 
 castle, wih 1 avoid being fired at ; and after examination, leave is generally 
 given for the officer in her to go into town, and return to the ship without 
 any embarrassment. 
 
 The master, purser, or other persons coming in the first boat from any 
 vessel regularly visited, must land at the health office, there to undergo 
 the customary examination ; and the captain or purser should proceed im- 
 mediately to the consul's office, to report the ship : passengers are free from 
 restraint after passing the health office. 
 
 Captains or pursers, so landing, must bring with them the vessel's re- 
 gister and Mediterranean pass, and also the manifest of her cargo, as with- 
 out these documents business cannot be transacted at the Consular and 
 other offices. 
 
 No vessel lying in port can have any communication with one that is 
 coming in, or that has already anchored, until such new comer shall have 
 been regularly visited. 
 
 No vessel at anchor can change her berth without license from the 
 government. 
 
 All boats that pass between the shipping and the shore, after sunset, are 
 subject to pay a pistareen and a half, for a government license. 
 
 No seaman or soldier to leave their ships, without permission in writing 
 from the captain or commanding officer. 
 
 Any seaman or soldier found on shore after sunset, without written leave 
 of absence, is liable to be taken up by the government, and kept in custody 
 until claimed and sent on board ship ; which will, exclusive of his mainte- 
 nance, occasion an expense of 2 dollars for each individual, to be deducted 
 out of his wages : and even with leave, as above, any disorderly con- 
 duct is immediately taken notice of by the government, and punished 
 accordingly. 
 
 All captains or commanding officers are requested to read the above two 
 articles to the sailors and soldiers on board their ships, as particularly re- 
 lating to them. 
 
 Captains or pursers must give notice at the consul's office, 24 hours, at 
 least, before the time of their intended departure. 
 
 No vessel is to carry from Madeira any person or persons, excepting
 
 70 
 
 those that came in her, wit/tout a regular passport ; as, in case of detection 
 in attempting to do so, the master is liable to a fine of 100 dollars, and to 
 3 months' imprisonment. 
 
 In cases where the captain of a vessel shall be judicially notified not to 
 carry away any particular person from the island, and he does receive him 
 on board, notwisthstanding such judicial warnings, he becomes liable for 
 all the debts which such person owes. 
 
 When vessels are ready to depart, the captains must, through the con- 
 sul, or their consignees, apply to the government to have its visit sent on 
 board at the hour when they will be ready to proceed to sea. 
 
 After a vessel has been visited for the purpose of proceeding on her 
 voyage, and circumstances require her to have communication with the 
 shore, or the shipping in port, she cannot sail until visited a second time. 
 
 No vessel can sail after sunset, without special license ; and in case a 
 ship is visited for departure, and finds she is obliged to remain a night 
 after, she must not attempt to sail till visited a second time. 
 
 As vessels are frequently fired at from Loo castle, for attempting to 
 anchor at night, it is recommended to those who make the port too late in 
 the evening, to have their colours seen, to stand off and on till daylight, 
 when the restriction ceases ; indeed, at all times it is as well to hoist the 
 colours and merchant's signal as early as possible, for the information of 
 the consignees on shore. 
 
 Any vessel attempting to get under way before she is visited, will be 
 fired at from the forts, and will be obliged to pay very dearly for the 
 powder and shot. This must also be understood in not observing any of 
 the foregoing rules. 
 
 No commander of a vessel can leave any of his crew behind him, ex- 
 cepting in the hospital, without first giving security in the consul's office 
 for their subsistence. 
 
 As the greatest attention is necessary on the part of the masters of ves- 
 sels, for the benefit of the concerned, it will be found much to the interest 
 of all parties, that they by no means sleep on shore, a caution of this kind 
 is doubly necessary in the winter. 
 
 It is necessary that captains and supercargoes should be acquainted, that 
 in case of breakage in the measurement of corn, after allowing 2| per 
 cent., the vessel must make up the deficiency at the market price in 
 Madeira, according to the long-established regulation of the British 
 factory. 
 
 The Loo castle usually fires two guns without shot, on any vessels 
 breaking the rules of the port : if those are attended to, in general they 
 take no more notice ; if not, not only the Loo, but the other forts, fire 
 with ball, till their object is obtained. 
 
 As many inconveniencies arise from not observing the foregoing regula- 
 tions, every commander of a vessel will find it to his interest to attend to 
 them, as otherwise he will forfeit the protection of his consul, and find the 
 consequences in the highest degree disagreeable. 
 
 To avoid considerable delay and expense, it is absolutely necessary to 
 have a bill of health, endorsed by the Portuguese consul, or his vice-consul, 
 of the last port of clearance. 
 
 THE SALVAGES. Between Madeira and the Canaries, there are a cluster 
 of rocks and islands called the Salvages, bearing due North, about 27 
 leagues from Point Naga, in Teneriffe : they are rather dangerous to pass 
 in the night, but a south course will give them a good berth to the east- 
 ward. They consist of the Great Salvage, the Great Piton, and the Little 
 Piton, and may be seen 7 leagues off in clear weather. They lie in a
 
 71 
 
 N. N. E. and S. S. W. direction, connected with each other by a ledge of 
 rocks. There is an anchorage on the S. E. side of the Great Salvage. 
 
 TIDES. It is high water on the full and change of the moon, at Fun- 
 chal, at 12 h. 15m. ; the mean vertical rise of the tide is between 8 to 9 
 feet. Variation, 21 W. 
 
 THE CANARIES. 
 
 The CANARIES consist of the following large islands : Palma, Ferro, 
 Gomera, Teneriffe, Canary, Fuertaventura, and Lanzarote. There are also 
 some smaller islands, as Graciosa, Alegranza, and Santa Clara. The coasts 
 of the islands are high and precipitous, but here and there broken by deep 
 clefts. The mountains generally rise towards the centre of the islands, 
 bleak and bare, and are full of pointed rocks. During the winter there is 
 snow on several of the highest summits. The Peak of Teneriffe, a half 
 extinct volcano, rises to the height of about 11,400 feet, and as it is viewed 
 from the sea at a distance, seems to spring out of the water like a sugar- 
 loaf. They are all of volcanic formation, and in parts exceedingly fertile ; 
 they produce grain and fruits, both tropical and European, in abundance. 
 An active trade is kept up among the islands, and they have large fisheries 
 on the African coast. There are no close harbours, the anchorage being 
 generally open roadsteads, few of which can be considered safe, except 
 during the fine season. The depth of water between the islands is very 
 great, and the passages are good. Supplies of provisions, &c., may be ob- 
 tained from any of them, though some of the islands are without water, 
 and depend on rain, which they keep in tanks. Each island has its gover- 
 nor ; but the whole group is under a governor-general, who, commonly 
 resides at Teneriffe, though all the law courts are neld at Canary. Being 
 situated within the general limits of the trade- wind, these islands enjoy a 
 a fine climate, and are very healthy ; in summer, there is a land breeze 
 off them at night. The S. W. winds, though rare, blow strong and 
 bring rain, while the S. E. wind is dry and hot, like the sirocco of the 
 Mediterranean. 
 
 PALMA. This island is remarkably high, and may be descried at a very 
 considerable distance, consequently, run for with the greatest confidence in 
 the night. The channel between it and Teneriffe is 40 miles in breadth, 
 and perfectly free from danger, having on both sides excessive high land, 
 with a bold shore. Vessels from the northward, bound to the coast of 
 Africa, are advised to use this passage, as the breeze is usually found 
 fresher and more continued than in any other, and the calms are of less 
 duration. It is, however, necessary to keep in mid-channel, borrowing 
 rather towards the Palma shore, in order to avoid getting too soon under 
 the lee of Teneriffe. 
 
 The chief port of Palma is that of SANTA CRUZ, on the east side of the 
 island, but, as the land behind the town is high and steep, the shipping 
 can only be discerned at a short distance. In order, therefore, to avoid 
 getting to the southward of the road, a stranger is recommended to edge in 
 to the northward, and run down along shore, until the town and shipping 
 come in view. Vessels here ride in 12 to 20 fathoms, during all winds ; 
 for although it is exposed to the eastward, yet, if you are provided with 
 good anchors and cables, you need be under no apprehension, for the ground 
 is clean and good, and the great height of the land, facing the road, repels 
 any wind, though ever so strong. ' There is a port on the S. W. side of
 
 72 
 
 Palma, named Tessacorta, but it is exposed to westerly winds, and chiefly 
 frequented by fishing boats. 
 
 FERRO. This island is the westernmost of the Canary islands ; it has 
 a small town, with a church, but there is neither road nor harbour to claim 
 description. Its productions are inconsiderable, and there are only three 
 fountains or springs on the island, from which fresh water can be obtained. 
 
 GOMERA is somewhat larger than Ferro, and lies about 14 miles 
 W. S. W. from Teneriffe. Its principal town is ST. SEBASTIAN, being 
 situated at the bottom of a commodious bay, on the east side : here vessels 
 may ride in from 15 to 7 fathoms, entirely land-locked from all but S. E. 
 winds. It is essential to be securely moored here, on account of the strong 
 eddies, particularly off the land, which frequently come in severe gales. 
 The best situation for a vessel to lie in, is about a cable's length from the 
 beach, having a full view along the main street of St. Sebastian. 
 
 TENERIFFE. Point Naga, the N. E. extremity of Teneriffe, bears 
 N. W. | N., (N. W. by W.,) 15 leagues from the Isleta, or N. E. Point 
 of Canaria, or Canary ; the distance between the nearest parts of the 
 islands is not, however, more than 10 leagues. About the centre, or rather 
 towards the western side, is the celebrated Peak, better known to the 
 inhabitants by the appellation of the Peak of Teyde ; it is, generally 
 speaking, overcapped with clouds, and is distinctly seen upwards of 100 
 miles. The islanders say it is visible 160 miles, but this appears doubtful, 
 and almost impossible ; for although its height might extend beyond the 
 sensible horizon, the atmospheric medium of the intervening distance, 
 would totally envelope it, and preclude the possibility of its being seen. 
 
 SANTA CRUZ is the principal port of Teueriffe. It is situated on the 
 east side, about 15 miles from Point Naga. The best road for shipping 
 here, is between the middle of the town and a fort or castle, about a mile 
 to th<# north ward of it : in that space, ships anchor either in 6 or 8 fathoms, 
 at a cable's length from the shore ; or in 25 or 30 fathoms, half a mile dis- 
 tant. Care must be observed, in going in, not to bring any part of the 
 town to the northward of west, lest calms should be caused by the land 
 under the peak ; and should you be driven ashore, anchors and cables are 
 of no use, as you will have no ground on the opposite side of the ship, 
 with 200 fathoms. When a ship lies any time in the road, it is necessary 
 to buoy her cables, otherwise the ground, being in some places foul, may 
 chafe and spoil them. Here vessels, if moored with good cables and 
 anchors, may lie securely in all winds, although the bay is exposed and 
 open to those which blow from the N. E., East, and S. E. ; however, it is 
 not above once in the space of 4 or 5 years that they blow so hard as to 
 cause any considerable damage. 
 
 QUARANTINE REGULATIONS. 20th November, 1832. On the appear- 
 ance of a British ship, a boat with a pilot, and carrying the Royal Spanish 
 flag, will leave the mole, and point out the quarantine anchorage. If, from 
 circumstances, it should be necessary to anchor, before communication can 
 be had with the boat, the line of quarantine anchorage is S. E. and N. W., 
 by compass, with the mole-head, (nothing to the north of it) ; distance 
 from 2 to 6 cables' lengths from the land ; the depth of water, 10 to 20 
 fathoms, rocky. Anchorage to the north of the line stated, is for vessels 
 admitted to free pratique. No ship is to lower boats, or communicate in 
 any manner whatever, until visited by the health-boat, and permission 
 obtained. Ships bound to any port in any of the Canary islands, from in- 
 fected countries, must come to this bay, which is exclusively appointed for 
 the observance of quarantine. 
 
 THE PORT OF OROTAVA is on the west side of the island, about 26 miles
 
 73 
 
 S. W. of Point Naga : it is exposed to N. W. winds, which cause 
 a heavy swell, but these, luckily, seldom occur, and in general give 
 sufficient warning to afford time for a vessel to get away. The an- 
 chorage is in 40 and 50 fathoms, about a mile and a half from shore, 
 with the peak bearing S. W. Considerable damage was done to Orotava 
 and its vicinity, by a dreadful hurricane which occurred there, in Novem- 
 ber, 1826. 
 
 DIRECTIONS TO BE OBSERVED BY BRITISH VESSELS FREQUENTING THE 
 ISLAND OP TENERIFFE. " A bill of health is an indispensible document 
 for a vessel's admission here, from whatever port she may arrive. The 
 quarantine-laws are very rigorously enforced, and the want of a bill of 
 health subjects vessels, even from England direct, to a quarantine, that is 
 never removed without the ceremony of repeated health-visits, and pay- 
 ment of heavy fees. Great care must be taken not to get to leeward of 
 the island, as it is a tedious and difficult matter to get up again, the usual 
 and prevalent winds being between N. N. E. and E. N. E. Point Naga 
 should be made, which is the N. E. point of the island ; it is very high, 
 and is easily to be known by two large high rocks lying close to it, which 
 appear like ships, and may be seen 7 or 8 leagues off. You must then run 
 down till you come within 2 or 3 leagues ; and if bound to Port Orotava, 
 you must steer down along the north shore, (which is very bold, and quite 
 free from danger,) keeping 2 or 3 leagues distant ; and, after running down 
 8 or 9 leagues, if you should not see the peak, which is often clouded, you 
 will see a large white town (Orotava) on the side of the high land, about 
 a league inland, with two small regular-shaped green hills under it, between 
 which you must steer directly in, and, by so doing, will raise, as it were, 
 another town out to sea : this is Port Orotava, for which you must steer 
 directly in, until you meet the pratique-boat, which will be about 2 or 3 
 miles off ; it is a low boat, and comes with the Spanish colours set upon a 
 staff ; at any rate, you must not be afraid of running in for the land, as it 
 is very deceiving, and you will be 4 or 5 leagues off, when you do not think 
 yourself so many miles ; in that case you will not soon get a boat, for they 
 do not come off until you approach very near. The boat, when she comes, 
 brings a pilot, and leaves him on board. You must also bring with you 
 your register, pass, clearances, &c. ; and you must take care not to deliver 
 either letters or other papers (except your bill of health) to any person 
 who may ask for them, without some document either from your consignee 
 or the consul. 
 
 " In running down, you must prepare your anchors and cables ; and it is 
 customary to bend your small bower cable, with which you will bring up, 
 with only one turn round the windlass, in order that it may run out quick, 
 as the spot where you ride (about half a league off, and to the westward of 
 the town) is very small ; and if there be many vessels there, it is necessary 
 that your anchor go very quick, as you bring up in from 30 to 40 fathoms 
 of water ; but there is little or no tide, and she will bring up easily. You 
 must give her the whole cable round the windlass ; your buoy-ropes should, 
 therefore, be 45 fathoms long. During the summer months, from April to 
 October, all vessels are moored in an inner harbour, or creek, with iron 
 chains, kept by merchants for that purpose. Vessels that fall to leeward 
 very often lose much time by mistaking Garachico for Port Orotava, from 
 whence it is distant 4^ leagues West. There is some similarity in the ap- 
 pearance of these places, Garachico having also above it a white town, 
 inland, called Icod ; but besides, by their situation, Garachico being much 
 nearer Point Teno, the west point of the island, these places are very 
 easily distinguished by the above-mentioned two equally-formed round
 
 74 
 
 green hills. Point Naga lies in latitude 28 36' N., and the Salvages lie 
 true North from the point, distant 28 leagues. 
 
 "The Grand Salvage is very high, and may be seen 10 or 12 leagues off. 
 Your direct course from the Grand Salvage to Port Orotava is S. W., (by 
 compass,) and distance 38 leagues ; but particular care must be taken not 
 to fall to leeward. The Peak of Teneriffe may sometimes be seen 40 
 leagues off, but it is very often hidden by clouds. Should it happen in the 
 winter that you arrive off Port Orotava, during a N. "W. or N. N. W. gale, 
 which rarely occurs, but throws in a very heavy sea upon the coast, and 
 would prevent a boat going off to you, it is best to bear away for Santa 
 Cruz, on the S. E. side of the island, after doubling Point Naga. 
 
 " Santa Cruz is the preferable place to touch at, for vessels in want of 
 water and refreshments. All vessels, on approaching these ports, ought to 
 hoist their colours, and show their consignee's signal ; or, when uncon- 
 signed, and only visiting the island, a union jack at the fore, and a white 
 flag with a pendant over it at the main, in order that boats may be early 
 sent off to them by their consignees, or by the consul." Advices from 
 Teneriffe, dated the lltk November, 1816. 
 
 CANARIA, OR GRAND CANARY. This is a very high and 
 mountainous island towards the centre, terminating on the N. E. by the 
 Isleta, a peninsula which lies about 15^ leagues, N. W. by W. ^ "W. 
 (W. by N.) from Point Handia, the S. W. end of Fuertaventura. The 
 peninsula is about 8 miles in circumference, connected to the island by a 
 narrow isthmus about 2^ miles in length, each side of which forms an ex- 
 tensive bay. That on the east side is called Puerto de Luz, and is a spa- 
 cious sandy bay, with good anchorage, for vessels of all burthens, within 
 half a mile to 1^ mile N. E. from the town, but the latter distance is to be 
 preferred, as the ground is better. There are several steep rocks at the en- 
 trance, on the N. E., which protect the shipping, and you may lie secure 
 from all winds, with the exception of that from the S. E. to which the bay 
 is quite exposed ; however, it but seldom happens to have it blow suffi- 
 ciently fresh from that quarter to endanger the shipping. PALM AS, the 
 capital of the island, is a large town situated at the bottom of the bay, to the 
 N. W. of which there is a fine smooth landing-place : here a plentiful sup- 
 ply of water and refreshments may be procured. Vessels with cargoes for 
 Palmas often anchor, in fine weather, within half a mile of the town, but 
 it cannot be considered a good roadstead. The bay, on the west side of the 
 peninsula, is exposed to heavy swells and N. W. winds, and is consequently 
 only frequented by small craft, sheltered between a ledge of rocks and the 
 shore, very securely. 
 
 Between 3 or 4 leagues to the S. E. of Port Luz, situated about the 
 middle of the east side of the island, is the town and port of Gando, 
 where there is good anchorage, well sheltered from all winds, except from 
 the southward. "Water and other refreshments may here be obtained.* 
 
 FUERTAVENTURA is a long narrow island, lying to the eastward of 
 Canary ; its length is about 20 leagues, and its breadth from 2 to 5 leagues. 
 Point Handia, its south-western extremity, lies in latitude 28 4' N., and 
 longitude 14 31' 30" W. ; a rock lies at half a mile from it to the S. W. 
 Off the northern point of Fuertaventura, is Lobos, or Seal island, which is 
 about 1^ league in circumference, uninhabited, and destitute of water. 
 
 Near this island is a good road for shipping ; the mark for which is, to 
 
 * It is asserted by the pilots of Tenerifle, that a rock, with only 12 feet of water over it, 
 lies W. N. W. 2 leagues from Point Aldea, the western point of the Grand Canary, and that 
 the sea breaks on it, in rough weather.
 
 75 
 
 bring the east point of Lobos to bear nearly N. E. by N., and anchor half- 
 way between it and Fuertaventura, or rather nearer to the latter. Although 
 this road seems to be open and exposed, yet it is very safe with the trade- 
 wind, for the water is smooth, and the ground everywhere clean, being 
 a fine sandy bottom. Directly ashore from the road, on the shore of 
 Fuertaventura, is a well of good water, of easy access. 
 
 The channel between this island and Lanzarote, is named LA BOCAYNA, 
 and vessels sailing through here, from the eastward, with the trade wind, 
 will lose the breeze when under the lee of Lanzarote, and find baffling 
 winds at S. W. You must therefore fly to the Lobos side, where you will 
 soon get a steady northerly wind to carry you through. Do not approach 
 too near on Lobos, as the ground there is foul and rocky, which causes a 
 heavy swell, with breakers of incredible height ; the noise they make is 
 sometimes heard 5 or 6 leagues off. 
 
 LANZAROTE. This is a dark, rocky lookingisland, and may be de- 
 scried at a great distance ; it lies in a N. E. and S. \V. direction, 10 leagues, 
 and is about 85 leagues wide. The principal harbour is that called PUERTO 
 DE NAOS, on the S. E. side. Vessels drawing under 18 feet, may enter it 
 at high water, spring tides, and lie securely in all winds ; although in 
 sailing along the coast, the shipping appear to be at anchor in an open 
 road, the harbour being formed of a ridge of rocks, seen at only a short 
 distance, as they are mostly under water ; these break off the swell of the 
 sea, so that the inside is as smooth as a mill pond. PUERTO DE CAVALLOS, 
 or El Recipe, is separated from the former by a square stone castle, 
 standing at the west side of the harbour ; it is sheltered like the other, by 
 a ridge of rocks, but it has only 12 feet water at high spring tides. 
 
 Between Lanzarote and the island of Graciosa, off its north point, is the 
 spacious harbour of EL Rio, which is the channel between them : here 
 vessels of any size may pass in midway in 7 or 8 fathoms. If a smooth 
 place to lie in, while the trade-wind blows, be required, a ship coming into 
 this harbour, from the eastward, must run a good way in, and double a 
 shallow point which lies on the starboard hand; this must not be ap- 
 proached in less than four fathoms, and when beyond it, you may anchor 
 in any depth you please. The water, however, here, is not so smooth as at 
 Puerto de Naos, especially if the trade- wind happens to blow hard from 
 the East, but it does not often come from that quarter, as those which are 
 most prevalent blow from North and N. N. E. To moor here, care must 
 be taken to have a good anchor, and a long scope towards Lanzarote, for, 
 in East and S. E. winds, heavy squalls come from the high land of that 
 island. In winter, the wind sometimes shifts to the S. W. ; in that case, 
 it is necessary to weigh and run to the eastward, round the shallow point 
 before noticed, until you find shelter. 
 
 GRACIOSA, ALLEGRANZA, &c. The former of these islands, as 
 it has already been mentioned, is divided from Lanzarote by the strait of 
 El Rio : the island is about 3 miles long, and 2 miles in breadth. To the 
 westward of Graciosa is the rocky, uninhabited island of Clara, near to 
 which is a large high rock, called the West Rock. Six or seven miles to 
 the northward is the island of Allegranza ; to the S. E. is a high rocky 
 islet, named the East Rock. Allegranza, Graciosa, and Clara, are only 
 visited for the orchilla, which is here abundant, and Canary birds, of a 
 beautiful plumage, are numerous. 
 
 DIRECTIONS. If a ship, lying at Palma, is desirous of going to Lanza- 
 rote, and will not wait for a fair wind, (which indeed seldom blows there, 
 especially in the summer season,) let her stand over to the N. W. side of 
 Teneriffe, and beat up along shore, until she weathers Point Naga ; thence,
 
 76 
 
 with the wind that generally prevails in these parts, she will be able to 
 weather Canaria, and fetch the point of Handia, or Fuertaventura, or 
 perhaps Morro Gable, (the southern point,) whence it is easy to beat up 
 to Pozzonegro, along the east side of the island, because the sea there is 
 always smooth. It is not quite so easy to beat up from Pozzonegro to the 
 Isle of Lobos, yet it may be done, without much difficulty, when the 
 weather is moderate ; if the wind should happen to blow hard, she may 
 stop in the bay of Las Playas, until it proves more favourable. 
 
 From the Isle of Lobos, she will find no difficulty in beating up to Porto 
 de Naos, in Lanzarote. It is not advisable for those who are not perfectly 
 well acquainted with that harbour to attempt to conduct a ship in, be- 
 cause the entrances are very narrow. 
 
 It is common for ships, which come loaded from Europe to Santa Cruz, 
 Teneriffe, &c., to have part of their cargoes to unload at Port Orotava. 
 These ships, when the trade-wind blows hard, will sometimes find it im- 
 practicable to weather Point Naga : when this is the case, they should 
 bear away to the leeward point of the island, and keep near the shore, 
 where, if they do not meet with a southerly wind, they will be carried by 
 the current, in the space of 24 hours, from the S. W. point of the island 
 to point Teno, whence they may easily beat up to Port Orotava ; for, 
 when the wind blows strong at Point Naga, it will be moderate weather 
 all the way, until within 2 or 3 leagues of Point Naga. But a ship 
 should not bear away, as above directed, unless when the trade-wind 
 blows so fresh that she cannot weather Point Naga ; because, in moderate 
 weather, there is little or no wind stirring on the coast between Teno and 
 Port Orotava. 
 
 The coast of Africa, east of the Canaries, is level, and rendered danger- 
 ous, and almost inaccessible, by a heavy surf which breaks on it con- 
 tinually. The Canarians, in the sea between this coast and the islands, 
 employ a number of barks in fishing for bream and cod. The passage is 
 about 20 leagues wide, and clear from any known danger. 
 
 WINDS AND CALMS PECULIAR TO THE CANARIES. In the vicinity of the 
 islands, brisk trades are, generally speaking, most prevalent from N. E. to 
 North, throughout the year. They sometimes give place to N. W. and 
 S. W. breezes, the latter of which not unfrequently blow for a continuance 
 of ten days. And on account of the enormous height of the mountains, 
 when near the land, you are subject to strong gusts and eddy winds 
 blowing in an opposite direction to that 'outside, which the navigator ought 
 to avail himself of, when beating to windward. Vessels sailing through, 
 most commonly carry the breeze a few leagues to the southward of the 
 islands, more or less, according to the strength and direction of the wind, 
 which, if far north, will take you more to the southward, and the con- 
 trary, if to the eastward. 
 
 On approaching the calms, you will find a heavy, disagreeable, bubbling 
 swell ; the sea breaks, and is very irregular, consequently producing a 
 distressing motion to the ship, which renders it necessary to take advan- 
 tage of every breath of wind to get to the southward. These calms are 
 occasioned by the intervening high land of the Canaries obstructing the 
 regular course of the trades, and extend from 10 to 30 leagues to leeward, 
 in proportion to the power of the breeze outside. And it may farther be 
 observed, when the trades are light, the calms are more extensive ; at 
 which time, however, light S. W. breezes prevail ; and, on the contrary, 
 when they are strong, the calms are very circumscribed, but not the 
 slightest air within for some days. 
 
 Between the Canaries and the Cape Verds, a current runs to the S. W.
 
 77 
 
 at the rate of half a knot, increasing as you approach the islands. In 
 about the parallel of 14 and 16 N., the trades begin to lose their strength, 
 veering round from the northward to the N. W., and from thence to the 
 westward, and S. W., as you draw in with the coast of Africa, in the lati- 
 tude of 7 and 10 N. 
 
 TIDES. It is high water generally among the Canaries, on the full and 
 change of the moon, at 3 o'clock. Springs rise from 8 to 10 feet. The 
 variation is about 20 W. 
 
 THE CAPE VERD ISLANDS. 
 
 These islands are ten in number, and lie about 100 leagues on a parallel 
 to the westward of Cape Verd, the nearest point of Africa, from whence 
 they derive their namer They were first discovered by the Portuguese, 
 who named them as follows : Ilha de Sal or Salt Island, Bonavista, Mayo, 
 St. Jago, Fogo, Bravo, St. Nicholas, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, and St. An- 
 tonio ; besides several small islets. They are of submarine volcanic for- 
 mation, and boast a climate and vegetation approaching nearer that of the 
 temperate regions. The most considerable is that of St. Jago, the chief 
 town of which is the seat of government. 
 
 The best course for vessels bound to St. Jago, from the Canaries, is to 
 stand on to the southward, to about 25 to 30 leagues to the eastward of 
 Bonavista, and from the latitude of 16, which is that of the middle of the 
 island : they should sail westward to get sight of it. It has also been 
 observed, " Though it may seem natural enough not to suspect any errors 
 of consequence in your reckoning, in so short a passage, as from the Ca- 
 naries to the isles of Cape Verd, yet there are instances of such, as well to 
 easting as to westing. It is with respect to errors in our westings, that 
 I advise all vessels to keep 30 leagues to the windward of Bonavista, be- 
 fore they stand in to make the land ; lest, in keeping a direct course for 
 that island, they should pass between the Isle of Nicholas and the Isle of 
 Sal ; and, finding themselves to the westward of Bonavista, when they 
 reckon themselves to the eastward of it, they should miss of their refresh- 
 ments at the Isle of St. Jago, an accident which has happened to several 
 vessels." 
 
 " The making of these islands is often difficult, occasioned by the fogs, 
 which hang frequently around them. For this reason, those who come 
 from the northward, ought to steer their vessels in this tract with all pos- 
 sible precaution." 
 
 " The most convenient course for vessels which continue their voyage 
 from the Canaries, without touching at the islands of Cape Verd or Goeree, 
 is to steer, after they lose sight of the Canaries, so as to pass about 45 
 leagues west of Cape Blanco, (or near the meridian of 26 ;) from this 
 position they will make good their course due south, as far as 12 N., and 
 afterwards S. E. by S., till they meet with those variable winds which suc- 
 ceed to the trade- winds. By this they will keep the mid-channel between 
 the islands and Cape Verd, and coast along the bank below that cape a 
 sufficient distance, even though they should make an error in their reckon- 
 ing of 15 to 20 leagues eastward." 
 
 THE SARGASSO SEA. A vast portion of the sea, to the N. N. W. and 
 N. W. of the Cape Verd islands, between the parallel of 12 and 35 degrees 
 of latitude, is commonly studded over, like an inundated meadow, with 
 bushes of a marine plant, called the fucus natans, in some places very
 
 78 
 
 abundant, and in others more dispersed. Hence has this part of the ocean 
 been denominated the Mar de Sargasso, or Grassy Sea. If we could 
 imagine the surface of a wide extended moor covered with water, the 
 furze and heath bushes would appear something like the clusters of fucus 
 scattered over the thickest part of this sea. It has thus been described by 
 a modern writer : " The sea, within the vicinity of these islands, is par- 
 ticularly remarkable for the immense floating beds of wrack, or sea weeds, 
 dispersed over its surface, and has given rise to various opinions as to its 
 place of growth, and whence it is ultimately deposited. It, however, 
 proves decidedly to be an American plant, a species of the algae, called the 
 fucus natans, produced from the rocks and shores contiguous to the 
 Florida Gulf, from whence it becomes detached on arriving at a state of 
 maturity, and carried off by that well known stream to the African coast, 
 returning from thence again to the westward, in the course of the trades." 
 
 " It has been a subject of surprise to many naturalists, that this plant 
 should never be found in its withering state ; but like every other species 
 of the vegetable world, it proceeds with equal regularity through the pro- 
 cess growth, maturity, and decay. It certainly continues vegetating for 
 a considerable period in its detached state, and is supported by the air glo- 
 bules which cause its buoyancy ; but immediately the symptoms of decay 
 manifest themselves, the buoyant principle is lost by the sudden discharge 
 of the globules, and the plant sinks, which accounts for its not been fre- 
 quently seen in its last stage." Notwithstanding this opinion, many others 
 affirm that the weed grows on the rocks, at the bottom of the ocean, in 
 the Sargasso Sea. 
 
 Between the islands and Cape Verd was formerly assigned an immense 
 bank of soundings, in the latitude of 19 and 20, extending as far as 18 
 N. latitude, called the Porgas Bank) upon which was described, " a con- 
 stant undulatory motion and rippling, causing a noise similar to that of 
 breakers, arising from the action of the waters on the bank underneath." 
 The existence of this bank is, however, much questioned, as many ships 
 have recently passed over the position here assigned to it without getting 
 soundings. 
 
 ISLAND OF BONAVISTA. This island, as its name implies, pre- 
 sents a beautiful variegated appearance, interspersed with scattered moun- 
 tains, which terminate in low points to the water. It is the most dangerous 
 of the Cape Verd islands, on account of its being surrounded by rocks and 
 shoals, also the current setting directly on it from the N. E. Off the N. E. 
 point of the island are some dangerous reefs, that extend 4 miles from the 
 land, attached to three islets, called the Dutch, Braithwaite, and North 
 Kays. Between these is sufficient depth of water for ships, in case of 
 necessity, and anchorage under the lee of the reefs. The best situation is 
 with Braithwaite Kay bearing N. E. by E., and Dutch Kay S. ^ W., or 
 you may moor half a mile from the former in 6 or 7 fathoms, with the 
 
 found tolerably good. Mount Ochello, or Ochel, in one with the North 
 ay, will lead on to the north point of Hartwell reef, and the same 
 mountain, due west, will lead to Braithwaite anchorage. The north side 
 of Bonavista island has several sunken rocks about it, particularly between 
 Broyal point and the N. W. reef and point ; it will therefore be prudent 
 to keep 2^ or 3 miles from land. 
 
 ENGLISH ROAD lies on the N. W. side, and is a safe anchorage in fine 
 weather. In proceeding for it, it will be proper to give the N. W. point 
 of Bonavista a good berth, keeping a mile from the shore ; and about 4 
 miles to the southward, you will perceive Small island, which forms the 
 N. W. side of the road. It is common for vessels to haul close round
 
 79 
 
 Small island, in 6 or 7 fathoms, passing between it and the 10 feet reef, 
 by which they avoid the necessity of tacking for the anchorage : the best 
 mark for the latter is, the town open with the N. E. end of Small island, 
 and the highest part of the same island bearing about N. by E. The reef 
 usually shows itself; but should this happen not to be the case, it will be 
 better, particularly for a stranger, to go to the southward of it altogether, 
 and endeavour to round it at the distance of 1^ or 2 miles from Small 
 island, taking care not to get into less than 6 fathoms : and observe, after 
 once opening the town, you do not shut it in again. The new town is on 
 the middle of the bay, and the second reef (New Town Reef) lies to the 
 westward of it, a short distance from the beach. The Inner Reef lies half 
 a league to the northward, and is also near the shore. S. by W. 4^ miles 
 from Small island, is Coral point, 2^ miles to the westward of which is 
 Coral reef : this must be left in proceeding to the southward on the lar- 
 board hand, as the channel between it and the shore is not to be attempted. 
 Vessels leaving English Road should steer W. S. W., and may afterwards 
 proceed as they please. 
 
 The easternmost extremity of Bonavista is East Sand Head, to the 
 southward of which is Brazen Hill point, which is remarkably bluff and 
 perpendicular on each side, with a sandy beach. Somewhat better than 3 
 leagues to the southward is South island and point, both of which are low 
 and foul. To the westward of this point is PORTUGUESE ROAD, where there 
 is anchorage in 6, 7, or 8 fathoms, with Platform mountain or hill bearing 
 N. N. W., the south point S. E., and the landing N. E. by N., distant if 
 mile. There is a reef that extends 3 miles off, from the point under Plat- 
 form hill, with the sea breaking on it. The hill bearing E. N. E. clears 
 this danger. 
 
 LETON REEF. This is a dangerous shoal, extending north and south, 
 about one mile ; from the centre of the reef the north point of Bonavista 
 bears N. E. | N. (N. 26 E.) 9^ leagues, and the south point E. by N. 
 (N. 64 E.) 7 leagues : it is about even with the surface of the sea, which 
 breaks over it with violence, except in fine weather ; and soundings have 
 been found around it, as will be perceived on reference to our particular 
 chart of the Cape Verd islands. The profusion of fish in its vicinity is 
 incredible. 
 
 ILH A DE SAL, OR SALT ISLAND. This is a long narrow island, 
 about 16 miles in length, and the north-easternmost of the Cape Verd 
 islands. Its north-western part appears high and irregular ; the hillocks 
 and vallies extend down to the water's edge, both on the eastern and 
 western sides, while its south and south-east points run out in long sandy 
 spits, very low and flat, and scarcely distinguishable at a distance ; at a 
 little distance to the northward of the S. E., or Wreck point, is a rocky 
 reef, stretching out about a mile from the land, on which the sea commonly 
 breaks. Salt island may be seen a great way off, and the Peak of Marti- 
 nez will become visible, on a clear day, at the distance of full 60 miles, its 
 height being computed to be 1600 feet. 
 
 There are no places of anchorage on the east side of the island ; but on 
 its western side are two bays, Palmyra and Mordeira, the latter being 
 considered one of the best among the Cape Verd islands. Palmyra bay 
 is shallow, and only frequented for its supply of fresh water ; this comes 
 from a well, affording about half a ton per day. 
 
 MOBDEIKA BAY is about 4 miles to the southward of Palmyra. In 
 proceeding along the west shore of the island, from the N. W. point to 
 Mordeira bay, you will have soundings all the way; within a mile of the 
 shore are 15, 16, 17, and 18 fathoms ; in Palmyra bay 5, 6, and 7 fathoms ;
 
 80 
 
 and close to Bird island 1 fathoms. Bird island is small, and lies about 
 a quarter of a mile off the shore, but there is no passage for vessels to go 
 between. Mordeira bay lies in to the southward of Bird island, and being 
 surrounded by low land, it is not so subject to squalls, nor heavy swells of 
 the sea, as the bays in most of the other islands are. Having rounded 
 Bird island, your best anchorage will be with Bird island just shut in 
 with the foot of the Lion's Head, distant l mile from the bluff land ; 
 observe there are many foul spots about, therefore care should be taken to 
 ascertain the quality of the ground before you let go your anchor. The 
 anchorage is safe during the N. E. breezes; you will ride in 15 or 16 
 fathoms, or lessen your depth by advancing towards the shore ; the bay 
 has plenty of fish and turtle, but there is no fresh water, nor could that 
 article be procured by sinking casks in the sand. 
 
 From Mordeira bay to the south point of Sal is about 6 miles ; there are 
 soundings all the way of 6 and 8 fathoms half a mile off the shore. Sound- 
 ings off Turtle point extend full two miles out, at which distance there are 
 20 fathoms. Vessels sometimes take a temporary anchorage off the south 
 point in 7 fathoms, within half a mile of the land ; but it will require you 
 to be careful in going round the south point, for it is very low, and you 
 should not come nearer than into 8 or 9 fathoms water. This island has 
 numerous salt ponds upon it, where the water crystalizes into a beautiful 
 salt, forming an article of commerce ; the land is otherwise nearly barren, 
 producing only a few inconsiderable shrubs. 
 
 MAYO. This island is about 4 leagues in length from north to south, 
 rising most towards the centre. On approaching the island from the S. E. 
 its appearance is very different from that from the northward, for you first 
 descry two hummocks towards the north part, appearing like islands, but, 
 as you approach nearer, the land is perceived by which they are connected. 
 Southward of these is a mountain, with very low ground to the south, over 
 which two hillocks are seen. At half a league from the middle of the north 
 side of the island is a reef, extending N. N. E. and S. S. W. three-quarters 
 of a mile, which must be cautiously avoided. 
 
 On the S. W. side of Mayo is a sandy bay, called ENGLISH ROAD, 
 within which is the town with its extensive salt-pans. Ships may anchor 
 here in 7 or 8 fathoms, west point N. N. W. (true) and south point S. E., 
 from whence the land appears with three conical hills to the N. E. Fresh 
 water is here extremely scarce, and by no means good. Abreast of the 
 town, and to the eastward of it, the shore is steep, bluff, and rocky : but to 
 the westward a low white sandy beach extends to a rounding point, from 
 which a spit of sand and coral stretches outwards, at a short distance from 
 the extremity of which there is no ground at 45 fathoms. The spit may be 
 rounded in 16 or 17 fathoms, and a ship should not anchor further out than 
 iu that depth, the edge of the bank being steep. There is anchorage half 
 a mile west from the town, in 11 or 12 fathoms. 
 
 ST. JAGO. This is the most considerable of the Cape Verd islands, 
 and being the seat of government is better inhabited, and more frequented 
 than the others; it is about 10 leagues in length and 5 leagues in breadth. 
 The land is very high, and the eastern side is bordered with rocks, which 
 lie near the shore, so that vessels may safely sail along at the distance of 
 two miles. The S. E. part appears as a long low point, when seen from 
 the northward or southward ; and 7 miles S. S. W. from this point lies the 
 east point of Port Praya. Between the two, but nearer, lies a bay which 
 so much resembles Port Praya that many vessels have been mistaken, and 
 nearly lost, as it is a dangerous place ; at the bottom of it are several cocoa- 
 nut-trees, and a few houses. Between this place and Port Praya the land
 
 81 
 
 is mostly perpendicular, and though the fort of Port Praya, which stands 
 on a cliff, is a mark, by which the true bay may be distinguished, yet the 
 surest guide will be, that the north or east point of the false bay is sur- 
 rounded with breakers, whereas the east point of Port Praya is high, steep, 
 and free from danger : you must haul close round the point, and keep within 
 a cable's length of the shore, to go to the anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms. 
 
 PORT PRAYA is a fine bay, lying between two points, which bear from 
 each other about east and west, one mile and a half apart. As you sail 
 round the east point, (Point Bicudas,) you will soon open the forts at the 
 bottom of the bay, to the westward of which, in a valley, are several cocoa- 
 nut-trees, and a .small house. The winds, except in the tornado season, 
 are generally in the N. E. quarter, with frequent squalls ; therefore a ship, 
 on approaching the east side of the bay, should have her top-gallant-sails 
 furled, and a reef or two in her topsails. The eastern shore of the bay is 
 high, and all the land seems parched and barren ; in the western part of 
 the bay is a small black island, flat at the top, but rugged at each end, 
 called the Isle of Quails, having a rocky projection from its south end, 
 about half a cable's length ; there is also a rocky ledge off the north end, 
 where the water is in general shallow, for 3 fathoms is the greatest depth 
 between this isle and the fort. Within, to the westward of the island, it 
 is only navigable for boats. 
 
 From the west point of the bay, Punta de Tamaros, some rocks extend 
 to seaward, which require caution to avoid, when sailing from the anchorage 
 in the night. It is, therefore, more convenient to anchor nearer the N. E. 
 side of the bay, than to the Isle of Quails, for the sake of more readily 
 getting under sail, without running the risk of being carried by the cur- 
 rents upon the point of the rocks to the leeward, before the vessel has 
 gained fresh way enough to steer clear of them. The best anchorage is in 
 7 or 8 fathoms, with the fort bearing N. W. by N. (N. W.) about three- 
 quarters of a mile, the body of Quail's island west, and the point of the 
 bay, opposite Quail's island, E. by S., the ground being coarse sand and 
 gravel, but not holding well, consequently requiring a good scope of cable 
 to bring the ship up : a kedge anchor should be let go to the west, in order 
 to steady the ship, keeping the bower anchor clear when the wind is light 
 from the west. 
 
 It has been observed, that " Quail island, though centrically situated, is 
 too near the main land to assist any one in finding the anchorage. Do not 
 approach on any point nearer than half a mile, as the vicinity is rocky, and 
 some rocks do not appear above the surface." 
 
 The island of St. Jago, when bearing W. N. "W. ^ W., 8 leagues, appears 
 very high. Mount St. Antonio, rising out of its centre, is of a conical 
 form, and terminates in a peak, which peak, bearing N. N. W., leads to 
 Port Praya road ; and as you advance westward, you will see the east end, 
 which, as already has been observed, is very low. As a further guide, you 
 will see an opening several miles north-eastward of the harbour, on Signal- 
 post hill, which gradually slopes to the westward ; also, Red hill, which is 
 on the larboard side of the bay, N. by W. The town is situated on an 
 eminence, rather high, and perfectly white, the houses being visible from 
 S. by E. to S. W. by W. 
 
 It seldom rains here, but a dry haze is very prevalent. In December 
 and January, the wind hangs sometimes far to the eastward, veering at 
 times to the northward. In settled weather, there are often regular land 
 and sea breezes in the bay ; the sea breeze setting in near noon, and ending 
 at 4 or 5 o'clock in the afternoon ; the N. E. wind begins towards evening, 
 and continues during the night. 
 
 M
 
 82 
 
 Ships bound from Port Praya to Bonavista, should endeavour to sail in 
 the evening, as the current at that time is favourable : they should not 
 stand too far over towards the African coast, nor work between Mayo and 
 St. Jago, and they will then get to the eastward very rapidly. 
 
 FOGO, OR FUEGO. This island lies 12 leagues to the westward of 
 St. Jago, appearing like one immense mountain, rising out of the sea to a 
 peak 7,000 feet high : it is the only submarine volcano, still smoking, and 
 whose eruptions occasionally create sufficient alarm to oblige its inhabitants 
 to retreat for security to the neighbouring islands. About l league off 
 the north end, there is said to lie a sunken rock ; the whole of the eastern 
 side is foul to one mile and a half from the shore, but the west side, on 
 which the town is situated, is clear. This little town is named Luz, off 
 which, north, by compass, distant a quarter of a mile, and the peak of the 
 volcano E. N. E.; but the ground is foul, bay open, and the landing very 
 bad. Corn, fruit, and cattle may occasionally be purchased here, but 
 water is scarce, there being no running stream. The volcano may be 
 sometimes seen at the distance of 34 leagues. 
 
 BRAVA. This is nearly an oval-shaped island, lying 8 miles to the 
 W. S. W. of Fogo ; in comparison with the great height of the latter, it 
 appears low, although its land is high, and its mountains rise like pyramids, 
 towering one above the other. About 5^ miles to the northward of Brava, 
 are two rocky islets called Rombo, or Rome's islands, nearly connected with 
 each other by a reef,but the passage between them and Brava is clear. Brava 
 has several bays or roads, where a ship may anchor. The best of them, 
 called Furna, lies at the N. E. end of the island, where small vessels may 
 lie sheltered from all winds but the S. W. Along the whole coast there is 
 generally a heavy surf, and landing is bad. Brava produces good water, 
 and an abundant supply of live stock, corn, and fruit, but little wood. 
 There is also an abundance of salt, and more saltpetre is procured here 
 than on any of these islands. The natives are few, and all blacks ; they 
 are harmless, hospitable, and generous. 
 
 ST. NICHOLAS. The east point of this island is distant 19 leagues 
 from the S. "W. extremity of Sal. It lies in an east and west direction, 
 about 8| leagues, and is of a very irregular breadth. The east end appears 
 like a sail, being a platform point, having a high pyramidal rock near it. 
 About 44 miles from hence is FBESHWATER BAY, where there is anchorage 
 in 7 fathoms, half a mile from the shore. There is good landing for the 
 boats, with plenty of good water in fine weather, and at neap tides ; for as 
 the tides rise here 5 or 6 feet, on the new and full moon, the pond is then 
 overflowed. At this time you are subject to heavy squalls ; and, notwith- 
 standing the wind blows off shore, the sea is very high close to the beach. 
 ST. GEORGE'S BAY, which is 12 miles to the westward of the latter, is 
 known by its conic or sugar-loaf mountain, to the left of which there is 
 another mount, with a flagstaff on the summit. Anchor on the north side, 
 in 6 or 7 fathoms, close to the shore, by which a rocky ledge, which 
 stretches from the east point, will be avoided : the best situation will be 
 the sugar-loaf hill, bearing N. E. by E., the flagstaff N. W. by N., and 
 the cove, or landing-place, distant a quarter of a mile N. "W. 
 
 TERRAFAL BAY lies on the S. W. side of St. Nicholas, and has regular 
 soundings within it, from 14 to 5 and 4 fathoms, near the shore, sandy 
 bottom : the custom-house stands on the S. E. corner of the bay. Anchor 
 in 15 to 10 fathoms, bringing the islands of Raza and Branco in one, bearing 
 W. N. W. | N., and the landing-place distant a quarter of a mile E. \ N. 
 From Terrafal bay to the west point of St. Nicholas, there are soundings 
 from 40 to 20 fathoms, a short distance from the land : a vessel may anchor
 
 83 
 
 in 30 fathoms, a mile S. by W. from the west point, when it blows from the 
 N. E., but that is the only quarter it is sheltered from. By digging a well, 
 almost anywhere on the low land, you may water here, unless the rainy 
 season has failed ; but there is always water in the valley, about half a 
 mile from the sea, whence the natives will bring it down on asses for a 
 trifle. From this road you may see, in clear weather, all the leeward 
 islands ; but if it be in the least hazy, the isle Raza is not discernible. 
 
 RAZA, OR CHAON is distant 8^ miles to the westward of St. 
 Nicholas. It is of a square form, about 2 miles in length, and 1| mile 
 broad ; it is of a rugged mountainous nature, and is uninhabited. The 
 landing-place is under the N. W. point, facing the west. Between it and 
 Branco, at about one-third from Raza, is a coral reef, extending S. S. W. 
 and N. N. E., and having on its shallow part 6 fathoms of water, but 
 deepening gradually on the west to 15, and on the east to 18 and 20 fathoms. 
 The sea continually breaks over the reef, owing to a strong tide or current 
 setting through between the isles. 
 
 BRANCO, OR REDONDA, is a long narrow island, about 2 miles 
 in length, of a similar description to that of Raza, from which it is divided 
 by a channel of 18 to 6 fathoms, about 3 miles wide. There is no safe 
 landing at Branco, as its shores are all rocky, more particularly towards the 
 S. E. end, from whence there stretches a sandy spit. 
 
 ST. LUCIA. About 4 miles to the northward of Branco, lies St. Lucia ; 
 between is a bank of soundings, forming, towards the latter, a regular flat 
 of 10 to 12 fathoms. The south coast trends nearly east and west, 4 
 miles, and in the middle of it is a good landing-place. A steep bank, half 
 a mile broad, stretches from it, having on its edge 2 to 4 fathoms. In the 
 bay formed by the S. W. coast, small vessels may anchor, being sheltered 
 from all points but the south and S. E. The beach is sandy ; the anchor- 
 age, small pebbles and sand. In the middle of the bay is an islet, named 
 Leon, with the ruins of a village on it. The N. W. part of St. Lucia 
 rises into high mountains. 
 
 ST. VINCENT. POKTO GBANDE, on the N. W. side of the island of 
 St. Vincenf, is considered one of the largest and best bays among the Cape 
 Verds ; the anchorage is safe and good, and is sheltered both from wind 
 and sea. The wind generally blows from the N. E. over a part of the land, 
 and seaward it is protected by St. Antonio, which is distant about 8 miles. 
 The church and custom-house stand at the bottom of the bay on the east, 
 and a signal-post is erected on a hill a short distance from the anchorage. 
 Without the entrance of the bay, at about two-thirds of a mile from its 
 north-west point, is Bird island, which is very steep, and appears at a dis- 
 tance like a sugar-loaf; this may be passed on either side, and hence you 
 will find regular soundings towards the shore. The ground is good in most 
 parts of the bay, and you may anchor anywhere in 7 or 6 fathoms, sandy 
 bottom. It is advisable to moor with a kedge, as a strong current often 
 sets to the N. E. between Bird island and the shore. 
 
 ST. VINCENT is divided from St. Lucia by a channel 4 miles wide. The 
 island stretches 12 miles east and west, and is about 7 miles in its broadest 
 part. The N. E. coast forms two bays, separated by a low peninsula ; but 
 as it is hereabouts altogether dangerous, it needs no further description. On 
 the S. W. side of the island is the BAY OF ST. PEDRO, having a fine sandy 
 beach, where vessels may anchor in 10 fathoms, near the middle of the 
 bay, or rather more to the westward. The anchorage is good in the dry 
 season, and the inhabitants say there is plenty of wood and water. On 
 the eastern side of the island is another anchorage, the Praya de Gatta, 
 with a sandy beach, near which vessels may anchor in 6 fathoms ; the
 
 84 
 
 bottom is clear, but a sea sets directly in when the wind is either N. E. or 
 S. E., the island of Santa Lucia sheltering between these points. This bay 
 and coast are without wood, water, and inhabitants. 
 
 ST. ANTONIO. This island is divided from the former by a safe chan- 
 nel, 8 miles wide. St. Antonio is remarkably high, particularly towards 
 the N. W., where there are two high mountains, the highest of which is 
 called the Sugar-loaf, and is generally overcapped with clouds. The town 
 and bay of Santa Cruz are situated on the S. E. side, but the anchorage is 
 bad, with a spit on the side. Terrafal bay, towards the S. "W. side, is well 
 supplied with good water, and other necessaries may here be purchased. 
 
 ST. ANTONIO may be descried, in clear weather, 18 leagues off, and ap- 
 pears high, bleak, rocky, and barren, which in fact it really is, even when 
 you approach near to it. The S. W. point is pretty well covered with 
 brushwood, but there is little appearance of verdure or cultivation. 
 
 WINDS, CURRENTS, &c. In the vicinity of the Cape Verd islands, 
 the winds are generally from the north to the east, becoming light and 
 variable as the sun approaches the zenith, accompanied with thick hazy 
 weather, some distance from the land ; but near which, in the bays and 
 harbours, except during the rainy season, there are sea and land breezes, 
 the former blowing from 11 to 12 o'clock in the forenoon, until 4 or 5 in the 
 afternoon, when the land-wind succeeds. 
 
 The rains commence about the middle of August, and continue without 
 intermission until November ; during which period the winds are strong 
 from the South and S. W., with frequent heavy squalls ; and it is during 
 these months that the inhabitants are so oppressed with sickness and fatal 
 diseases. Throughout the year, there is a constant atmospheric humidity, 
 from which is deposited an abundant proportion of vapour, which circum- 
 stance accounts for the temperature of the climate, and the extreme 
 luxuriancy of vegetation in these islands. 
 
 The currents in the neighbourhood are, for the most part, strong to the 
 S. E., therefore, vessels bound from the north ought to make allowances 
 accordingly, making the island of Sal first, from whence they may, with 
 facility and greater security, direct their course to any of the others. The 
 current, however, has occasionally been found to run to the N. E., in which 
 case, serious errors will often occur, and which, perhaps, experience only can 
 guard against. The force of the current is commonly three-quarters of a knot. 
 
 There is a certain proportion of the sea, 3 or 4 degrees southward, and 
 6 degrees to the westward, from the Cape Verds, extending to the equator, 
 which seems condemned to perpetual calms and heavy rains, and which, 
 in the words of Lieutenant Bold, may be accounted for in the following 
 manner : " The sun, in his course from east to west, occasions a power- 
 ful rarefaction of that proportioii of the atmosphere immediately in his 
 vicinity, causing a constant stream of wind, which rushes after him from 
 the east, to supply and equalize the rarefied medium. This wind, crossing 
 the continent of Africa, loses its power in traversing such an extensive 
 heated body of land, and separates into two veins, which are termed the 
 N. E. and S. E. trades ; in consequence of which, the intermediate space, 
 which is specified above, as far as the conflux of the winds, is in a constant 
 state of inaction, receiving from every side the proximated passing clouds, 
 which settle and deposit their waters with sometimes the most unabated fury. 
 
 " The motions of the two powerful elements, wind and water, are found 
 to operate in exactly a similar manner ; therefore, at the meeting of these 
 winds, as abides, there is an irregular motion caused, creating eddies, &c., 
 which give rise to those sudden various gusts and rains, that vessels experi- 
 ence in traversing the equator from the N. E. to the S. E. trades, and vice versa"
 
 85 
 
 TIDES. It is high water on the full and change of the moon, among the 
 Cape Verd islands, as follows : English road, Bonavista, at half-past 
 seven tides rise 5 feet ; Mordeira bay, Sal, at three-quarters after seven 
 rise, 5 feet ; Port Praya, at six o'clock vertical rise about 4 feet ; St. 
 Nicholas, at seven, and the tide rises 6 feet. VARIATION at St. Antonio, 
 in 1826, was found to be 16 ; at Port Praya, 14, W. 
 
 THE BERMUDAS, OR SOMERS' ISLANDS. 
 
 THESE islands derive their name from the supposed discoverer, Juan Ber- 
 mudez, a Spaniard, who is said to have touched there in 1522 ; or, as it is 
 in May's account, from a Spanish ship, called Bermudas, being cast away 
 there. The first printed account of them in English seems to be by Henry 
 May, who, being on board a French ship, commanded by M. de la Barbotier, 
 was wrecked on them, in 1593. The second and less common appellation 
 is from Sir George Somers, who was driven upon them, in 1609, on his 
 voyage to Virginia. They consist of a numerous group of islands and 
 rocks, being surrounded with dangerous reefs, nearly even with the surface 
 of the water, some of which extend 8 leagues to seaward, so as to render 
 the access extremely difficult ; in addition to which, the land is low, and a 
 current frequently sets towards them from the S. W. The Bermudas 
 extend N. E. by E., and S. W. by W., about 20 miles in length, and of 
 various breadths, being shaped in the most irregular manner imaginable. 
 Including the small ones, the number of islands is very great, but the 
 large ones may be reduced to five, viz. : St. George's, St. David's, Long 
 island (or Bermuda), Somerset, and Ireland. There are two towns, each 
 of which has its mayor and civic officers, St. George's, on the island of 
 that name, to the N. E., and Hamilton, on the large island, (or continent, 
 as it is generally called J, about the centre of the group. They are both 
 well built of white stone ; St. George's, which is the larger, contains about 
 500 houses, a church, the town-house, (in which both branches of the 
 legislature hold their sittings) a library, and other public buildings. The 
 whole group is divided into nine parishes, each of which sends four mem- 
 bers to the house of assembly. The scattered houses and hamlets are so 
 numerous, that the whole island has the appearance of one continued village. 
 
 There are no springs or fresh water streams in the islands, and but few 
 wells, the water from which is brackish ; each house has its own tank, to 
 which the roof serves as a conductor for the rain ; and on the island of St. 
 George's are large tanks for the supply of shipping. 
 
 The climate of the Bermudas is that of a perpetual spring, mild, genial, 
 and salubrious ; though during southerly winds, which are the most pre- 
 valent, the atmosphere becomes charged with a humidity unfavourable to 
 constitutions predisposed to rheumatism, gout, or pulmonary affections. 
 The fields and trees are always green ; but the predominance of the cedar, 
 while it refreshes the air with its fragrance, imparts its dark hue to the 
 landscape. Snow seldom falls, and rains are not frequent, though heavy 
 while they last. The islands are, however, very subject to tempests, 
 thunder-storms, and hurricanes, especially during the autumn, a circum- 
 stance that may be attributed to their situation on the verge of the trade- 
 wind, where variable and disagreeable weather always occurs. 
 
 There is not an insular group on the whole globe so protected by nature, 
 from the effects of a boisterous ocean, as the Bermudas. They are sur- 
 rounded by dangerous rocky reefs, extending in some parts 10 miles from
 
 86 
 
 the islands, which render them very difficult of access. The few channels 
 through the reef are thickly studded with coral rocks, but the water is so 
 beautifully clear, that they are visible to the eye ; and the Negro pilots, 
 looking down from the bow of the vessel, conduct her through the 
 labyrinth with a skill and confidence only to be acquired by long habit. 
 
 There are four SIGNAL STATIONS on the islands one at St. George's, the 
 head quarters, on the east ; another at Mount Langton, near Hamilton ; 
 another on the S. W. coast, at three miles from the S. "W. end of the 
 islands ; and the other at Gibb's hill, on the west coast. At each a small 
 party of soldiers is stationed. There is also a flagstaff at the com- 
 missioner's house, in the dock-yard in Ireland's island, which communicates 
 with Mount Langton, and through that to the other stations. The popu- 
 lation is between 9,000 and 10,000, something more than half of which are 
 whites, of whom nearly two-thirds are females. 
 
 SAILING DIRECTIONS. In running from the eastward for these islands, 
 the best parallel is between 32 10', and 32 20' ; a ship may then run on 
 boldly, as there are no rocks at any distance from the land. With a large 
 wind, and approaching land towards the night, no vessel should lie-to, but 
 rather turn to windward under an easy sail till morning, as the current 
 may take you unexpectedly among the rocks. It is also to be observed, 
 that the islands are low, and cannot be discerned far ; added to which, a 
 thick haze is often prevalent. Under these circumstances, it will at all 
 times be proper to be correct in ascertaining your latitude, as making the 
 land is somewhat difficult, and at times precarious. 
 
 As the prevailing winds in these seas are commonly between the south 
 and west, vessels from the westward generally run for these islands, in 
 about the parallel of 32 8'. Steering east, the first land seen will be 
 Gibbs' hill to bear E. N. E. ; and when within 6 miles of the land, take 
 care it is not to the eastward of that bearing, because of the rocks called 
 the Long bar. Steer then so as to pass within two miles of the S. E. 
 land, and when Wreck hill shuts in behind the south land, you are clear of 
 the S. W. breaker, and may steer along the S. E. side, at a mile distant 
 from the shore, until abreast of St. David's head. 
 
 On coming from the westward, the S .W. points of the land ought to 
 bear E. N. E. before you come within 4 leagues of the land, when you may 
 steer directly for it without danger. The breakers on the south side al- 
 ways show themselves, so that a ship may safely approach within gun-shot, 
 from the S. W. end to the S. E. ; and when getting to the eastward of the 
 castle round into St. George's, do not go further to the northward than to 
 keep Cooper's island open within St. David's head, till you take a pilot. 
 
 The rocks and islands of Bermudas lie N. E. by E. and S. W. by W., 
 about 9 leagues, and in breadth about 5. Wreck hill forms the west 
 point, and St. David's head the east. .The W. N. W. and North sides are 
 encumbered with a dangerous and continued ledge, beginning at the Long 
 bar, the south part of which lies 6 miles W. S. W. from Gibb's hill ; 
 trending then N. E., it is called the Chub heads, which off Wreck hill 
 lies 9 miles from shore ; it thence extends to the North rock, and rounds 
 East and E. S. E. to Mill's breaker, which dries at low water, and lies 
 N. E. 6 miles from Catherine point. There are soundings round the outer 
 edge of this ledge from 9 to 14 fathoms. There are soundings also 2 miles 
 from the shore, round the N. E., East, and S.. E. sides of the Bermudas ; 
 and as the water hereabout is deeper, vessels suspecting themselves in the vi- 
 cinity of the islands, would do well to keep the lead going, being assured that 
 at 13 or 14 fathoms, they will strike the ground in time to avoid danger. 
 
 MURRAY'S ANCHORAGE lies on the S. W. side of Catherine point, ex-
 
 87 
 
 tending from Tobacco bay to the ferry : the common entry is through an 
 intricate narrow passage round the point ; the ground consists of stone of 
 the drip-stone kind, as fine as flour, mixed with a shelly substance a^nd 
 chalky clay, and is very heavy. In the event of not getting a pilot off 
 Castle harbour, you may run as far as St. David's head ; and when' to the 
 eastward of which, stand no further northward than to bring the head to 
 bear N. E., or you will see a white sandy bay to the southward of the 
 head, between it and Castle harbour. In standing to the northward, care 
 must be taken to shut no part of this bay in behind St. David's head. 
 The west land of Bermudas will be shut in behind the land over this bay, 
 before this mark comes on. In the night, when waiting here for a pilot, 
 the best precaution is the lead, for, if care be taken, and the ship is not 
 running too fast through the water, you will be sure of striking ground in 
 time to avoid danger. There is a rocky bank, lying from S. S. W. to S. W. 
 from Gibb's hill, from 3 to 5 leagues distant, with various depths of water, 
 from 16 to 40 and 45 fathoms. 
 
 The following particulars are extracted from Cotter's Sketches of Ber- 
 muda, 1828. "The principal places of anchorage are ST. GEORGE'S 
 HARBOUR, with a bar, over which at high water spring tides are 1 9 feet, 
 but deep enough within that for ships of any burthen. MURRAY'S 
 ANCHORAGE, extending from St. Catherine's point to the ferry, the en- 
 trance to which is very intricate, but is well marked with buoys ; this is 
 the channel to Grassy bay. Off the dock-yard, in Ireland island, is the 
 
 general rendezvous for H. M. ships ; and also Hamilton, situated at the 
 ead of the Little sound." Castle harbour was formerly the place assigned 
 for men-of-war, but this has been discontinued since the loss of the Cer- 
 berus frigate, which struck on a rock, in endeavouring to get out to chase 
 an American privateer. 
 
 " Ships may approach within a mile of the land on the south side, there 
 being no hidden danger ; but on the north side there is a reef of coral, 
 about 3 leagues from land, extending from the North rock, bearing true 
 North from St. Catherine's, to the western extremity of the colony. There 
 is, however, a passage through, abreast a point called Wreck hill, in Somer- 
 set parish, which is only frequented by vessels of light draught of water. 
 There is also a passage near the North rock, but which is never resorted to 
 except in cases of great necessity. 
 
 " Many skilful mariners and pilots are of opinion that Grassy bay is not well 
 chosen as an anchorage for H. M. ships. The channel from St. Catherine's 
 point is almost daily reduced in width and depth of water, owing to the 
 influx of sea -weed into the Great sound, and the rapid growth of coral ; 
 besides, ships have been detained several days, in consequence of the wind 
 not answering, to enable them to get through the intricate channel from 
 Murray's anchorage. 
 
 *' No stranger of common prudence would attempt any of the anchorages 
 without a pilot, many of whom are always on the look-out, and put to sea 
 when a vessel heaves in sight. Their boats are easily known, being of a 
 peculiar construction and rig. They are of a light draught of water for- 
 ward, but have what is called a long heel or deep stern-post, and are rigged 
 with one mast and bowsprit, carrying a triangular mainsail, a foresail, and 
 jib, and occasionally a gaff topsail and square-sail." 
 
 TIDES. It is high water, on the full and change, at St. George's, at 8 
 o'clock ; spring tides rise about 6 feet, common tides only 4 feet. The tides 
 are various, both in height and time, at different parts of the island. The 
 VARIATION is 2 W.
 
 88 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 ROCKS, SHOALS, AND DANGERS, IN THE NORTH 
 ATLANTIC OCEAN. 
 
 The Notes referred to will be found subjoined* 
 
 NAMES. 
 
 NORTH 
 LAT. 
 
 WEST 
 LONG. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 To THE N. OP 40 
 Kramer's Bank, 
 
 DEC. MIN. 
 
 59 45 
 
 DEO. MIX 
 
 16 40 
 
 Doubtful. Vide Note 1. 
 
 Roekall, 
 
 57 40 
 
 13 31 
 
 Two leagues E. N. E. ! E. of Rockall 
 
 
 56 40 
 
 17 45 
 
 is Helen s Reef. Note 2. 
 Soundings obtained by Lieut. Pick- 
 
 Vieria. . 
 
 56 30 
 
 16 
 
 ersgill, 1776. 
 Doubtful. 
 
 Aitkin's Rock, 
 
 55 19 
 
 9 58 
 
 Doubtful. Note 3. 
 
 Brasil Rock, 
 
 51 10 
 
 16 
 
 A high rock, steep-to, seen in 1791. 
 
 Negre's Rocks, 
 
 48 7 
 
 21 
 
 Position not accurately determined. 
 
 Three Chimneys, ... 
 Chapelle Rock, 
 
 47 54 
 47 43 
 
 29 40 
 
 8 4| 
 
 Supposed to lie in the position here 
 stated. Note 4. 
 Seen in 1786 and 1842. Note 5. 
 
 Jaquet Island, 
 
 46 50 
 
 39 30 
 
 Supposed to be an Iceberg. 
 
 Devil's Rocks, 
 
 43 36 
 
 13 8 
 
 Seen in 1829 and 1842. Vide Note 6. 
 
 Virgin Rocks, 
 
 46 26| 
 
 50 56| 
 
 Ascertained in 1829. See Note 7. 
 
 Maida, 
 
 46 10 
 
 19 40 
 
 Considered doubtful. 
 
 Mariners' Rock, 
 
 46 
 
 29 37 
 
 Seen in 1831. Note 8. 
 
 Barenethy's Rock, ... 
 I. Verte, or Green lid. 
 
 Rock, 
 
 45 42 
 44 52 
 
 44 38 
 
 37 25 
 26 25 
 
 11 42 
 
 Doubtful. 
 Said to be last seen by Capt. Coombes, 
 ship Pallas. 
 To the N. W. of Cape Finisterre, 
 
 Five Heads, 
 
 44 15 
 
 19 25 
 
 doubtful. 
 Very doubtful. 
 
 Greeve's Rocks, 
 Vieria, . 
 
 44 15 
 44 
 
 25 5 
 
 39 20 
 
 Position uncertain. 
 Doubtful. 
 
 Indemnity Rock, 
 
 Cashe's Ledge, 
 Vigia (Ramigeaus), 
 Vicria. . 
 
 43 20 
 
 43 1 
 42 45 
 42 45 
 
 25 10 
 
 69 10 
 37 25 
 37 16 
 
 Ship Indemnity, September, 1829. 
 Note 9. 
 Adangerous reef, half a mile in extent. 
 Probably not in existence. 
 Doubtful. 
 
 Beaufort Bank, 
 Amplimont Rocks, . . . 
 Druid's Reef. 
 
 42 37 
 42 31 
 41 19 
 
 41 45 
 24 3 
 41 35 
 
 Vide Note 10. 
 Position not well determined. Note 1 1 . 
 Discovered in 1803. Note 12. 
 
 Perseus' Shoal, 
 
 41 3 
 
 22 30 
 
 Ship Perseus 1813, breakers seen. 
 
 Hervagault'sBreakers 
 Daraith's Rock, 
 Gough's Rocks, 
 Shoal. . 
 
 41 2 
 40 50 
 
 40 28 
 40 26 
 
 49 23 
 54 53 
 33 
 36 10 
 
 See Note 13. 
 Longitude uncertain. 
 Seen by Captains Gough and Birch. 
 Uncertain.
 
 89 
 
 NAMES. 
 
 NORTH 
 LAT. 
 
 WEST 
 
 LONG. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Shoal, 
 
 DEO. MIX. 
 
 40 22 
 
 D8G. MIN. 
 
 42 50 
 
 Doubtful. 
 
 Watson's Rock, 
 
 40 18 
 
 53 40 
 
 Captain Watson, 1824. Note 14. 
 
 Shis, of St George's Bk. 
 
 
 
 Vide Note 15. 
 
 BETWEEN 20& 40 N. 
 Candler's Rock, 
 
 39 47 
 
 35 
 
 Supposed to bo an Iceberg. 
 
 Breton's Rock, 
 
 39 40 
 
 41 35 
 
 Position not well determined. Note\ 6 
 
 Hume's Reef, 
 
 39 
 
 64 20 
 
 Brig Joseph Hume, 1827. Note 17. 
 
 Whale Rock, 
 
 38 46 
 
 25 
 
 Breakers seen, 1809. 
 
 Vioia. . 
 
 38 30 
 
 38 15 
 
 Situation uncertain. 
 
 PrincessElizabeth Shi. 
 
 Virria 
 
 38 16 
 38 15 
 
 39 49 
 34 
 
 West of the Azores. Vide Note 18. 
 S. W. of Flores considered doubtful 
 
 Rocks near the Azores, 
 Tulloch's Rocks, 
 
 37 56 
 37 27 
 
 33 4 
 24 45 
 
 Brazilian Brig Constante, 1840. 
 Note 19. 
 Discovered in 1808, Note 20. 
 
 Formigas (the middle) 
 Jean Hamon's Rock, 
 Daedalus' Rock, 
 
 37 17 
 36 54 
 36 30 
 
 24 54 
 19 49 
 9 16 
 
 North eastward of St. Mary. 
 Doubtful. . 
 Position very doubtful. Note 21 
 
 St. Mary's Bank, 
 
 36 
 
 27 16 
 
 Shoal of white water S. W. of St Mary. 
 
 Kutusoff Bank 
 
 34 50 
 
 23 33 
 
 West of St. Mary's bank 1816 
 
 The Eight Stones, ... 
 Ashton Rock, 
 
 34 45 
 
 33 48f 
 
 15 55 
 71 41^ 
 
 Doubtful. Note 22. 
 Capt.H.B. Grey, 1824. VideNote23 
 
 Desertas (north end), 
 Steen Ground, 
 
 32 36^ 
 32 30 
 
 16 33 
 21 15 
 
 Ten miles to the eastward of Funchal. 
 Westward of Madeira, doubtful. 
 
 Rocks eastward of | 
 Bermuda, f 
 
 32 20 
 
 57 30 
 
 Position questionable. 
 
 Josyna Rock, 
 
 31 40 
 
 23 45 
 
 Supposed to be seen in 1805. 
 
 Vankeulen's Rock, . . . 
 Vioia. . 
 
 31 30 
 30 53 
 
 36 50 
 27 12 
 
 Doubtful. 
 Doubtful. 
 
 Harcourt Rock, 
 
 30 49 
 
 78 27 
 
 Vide Note 24. 
 
 Cleveland Rock, 
 
 30 45 
 
 10 24 
 
 Off Cape Geer, 9 leagues from land. 
 
 The Salvages (md.pt.) 
 Gandaria Reef, 
 
 30 8 
 29 30 
 
 15 48 
 37 18 
 
 Twenty seven leagues N. of Teneriffe. 
 Note 25. 
 
 Mourand's Bank, 
 
 24 34 
 
 65 10 
 
 Capt. Mourand of Nantes, 1773 
 
 Staminca Rock, 
 
 24 20 
 
 64 50 
 
 Doubtful, probably the foregoing 
 
 Livington's, or Tul- ) 
 loch's .Overfalls, j 
 Gombaud's Rock, ... 
 Superb Bank, 
 
 24 11 
 
 23 15 
 21 
 
 61 44 
 
 32 20 
 69 8 
 
 Capt. Tulloch, 1819. 
 
 Gombaud, 1760. 
 N. E. of Silver Kays. 
 
 Three Kays, 
 
 20 41 
 
 70 10 
 
 Brig Augusta, 1829, 15 miles N. W. 
 
 Guisron's Bank, 
 
 20 48 
 
 66 43 
 
 of Silver Kays. 
 Forty-five leagues to the northward 
 
 O ' 
 
 Navy Bank, 
 
 20 10 
 
 68 50 
 
 of Porto Rico. 
 Seventeen fathoms S E of Porto Rico. 
 
 Hanna's Breakers, ... 
 
 BETWEEN THE EQUA- 
 TOR AND 20 N. 
 
 Maria Rock. 
 
 20 
 19 45 
 
 63 45 
 20 50 
 
 To the northward of Anegada. 
 Doubtful. Note 26.
 
 90 
 
 NAMES. 
 
 NORTH 
 LAT. 
 
 WEST 
 LONG. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Bom Felix, 
 
 DBG. MIX. 
 
 19 15 
 
 DEO. MIN. 
 
 20 40 
 
 Shoal of 4 and 5 feet N. W. of Cape 
 
 Clowes' Reef, 
 
 19 15 
 
 65 50 
 
 Verd, doubtful. Note 26. 
 Caledonia, Capt. Clowes, 1 825. 
 
 Betsey's Hock. 
 
 18 7 
 
 50 
 
 Seen by the Betsey, 1808. 
 
 Martin's Reef 
 
 16 44 
 
 58 50 
 
 Supposed to be two miles in extent, 
 
 Bonetta Rock ..... 
 
 16 30 
 
 20 30 
 
 1823. 
 Doubtful. Vide Note 26, 
 
 India Shoal, 
 
 16 7 
 
 27 23 
 
 Position uncertain. 
 
 Maalstroom 
 
 16 
 
 37 4 
 
 Uncertain. 
 
 Galleon's Bank, 
 
 15 56 
 
 49 40 
 
 Discovered by Longueville, the pilot 
 
 Leton Rock, 
 
 15 48 
 
 23 13 
 
 of the San Fernando. 1730. 
 Dangerous reef even with the water. 
 
 Webb's Rock, 
 
 15 45 
 
 21 15 
 
 Doubtful. 
 
 Dulrueil's Rock, 
 
 14 50 
 
 29 40 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 St. Esprit Reef, 
 Garcia Rock, 
 
 14 37 
 13 
 
 58 59 
 29 50 
 
 French ship St. Esprit, 1817- 
 Doubtful. 
 
 Galissioneres Rock . . . , 
 Texeiros Shoal, 
 
 12 10 
 12 
 
 54 50 
 33 28 
 
 Somewhat doubtful. 
 Supposed to be seen in 1810. 
 
 FivePalmasorHin- 1 
 man's Shoal, ... J 
 Patty's Overfalls, ... 
 Delaware Shoal, 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 10 37 
 
 27 20 
 
 24 30 
 60 3 
 
 Doubtful. 
 
 Ditto. 
 Eastward of Trinidad. Vide Note 27. 
 
 Hannah's Shoal, 
 
 10 7 
 
 27 32 
 
 Brig Hannah, 1824. 
 
 Longchamp's Rock, 
 Warley's Shoal, 
 French Shoal 
 
 9 47 
 5 4 
 4 5 
 
 30 
 21 25 
 20 35 
 
 Doubtful. 
 Ship Warley, 1813. Note 26. 
 Doubtful. See Note 26. 
 
 Caesar's Breaker's, . . . 
 Blaesdale's Reef, 
 St. Paul, or St. Pe- ) 
 nedo St. Pedro, J 
 
 2 
 
 5Y 
 
 55 
 
 22 18 
 41 6 
 
 29 19 
 
 Considered very doubtful. 
 Vide Note 28. 
 A group of five steep craggy rocks 
 Note 29. 
 
 NOTES ON THE PRECEDING TABLES. 
 
 1. KRAMER'S BANK is said to have been discovered by Captain 
 Alof Kramer in 1751, but Captain Ross sought for this bank, unsuccess- 
 fully, in 1818. "Continuing our course," says he, "on the 8th of May, to 
 a spot where a bank is laid down in Steel's chart, as discovered by Alof 
 Kramer, we could find no soundings in 130 fathoms, anywhere on or near 
 the place." 
 
 2. ROCKALL. This rock has been seen many times, but its true 
 situation was unknown till the year 1810, when it was ascertained by Mr. 
 T. Harvey, master, and the other officers of the Endymion frigate, com- 
 manded by the Hon. T. B. Capel. It is a large high rock, of a conical, or 
 sugar-loaf shape, the summit, or upper part, of which is perfectly white, 
 from an immense quantity of birds' dung, with which it is covered. 
 
 3. AITKIN'S ROCK. On the 16th of July, 1740, at seven o'clock at 
 night, in a passage from Virginia, on bord the Friendship of Ayre, John 
 Aitkin, master, James Lockhart, mate, coming in at the N. W. channel of 
 Ireland, going under reefed foresail, wind at N. N. W., steering E. by S., 
 saw by the weather-leech of the foresail, a rock under water, about 4 feet, 
 distant 40 or 50 yards, to the best of their judgment, the ship running 6
 
 91 
 
 knots by the log, with a heavy swell from the N. W. ; all hands being on 
 deck saw it plainly : next morning made the land, between Ennistrahul 
 and Tory island, at about 8 o'clock ; supposed to lie in the lat. of 55 18' N. 
 and long., from the meridian of London, 11 14' W. From Tory island 
 W., distant 94 miles, without allowance of variation. 
 
 We have other accounts of this rock ; and of these one states its position 
 at 55 15' N. and 10 40' W., a part appearing at 3 feet out of water, 
 with soundings of 30 to 40 feet a short distance ; at 30 fathoms off no 
 soundings with a line of 150 fathoms. In or about the year 1804, Captain 
 Clarke, since of the Harmony of Ayr, believes that he saw the rock very 
 distinctly ; by his run, it appeared to lie 20 leagues nearly true west from 
 Tory island. Captain James Reid, of the True Briton, says, " On Wed- 
 nesday, the 27th September, 1826, when steering E. S. E., a man at the 
 mast-head called out that there were breakers close to our larboard bow. 
 
 I immediately hauled the brig up S. S. E. to clear them. In the run of the 
 sea, a rock appeared a little above the water, nearly flat, about 90 feet 
 long, and 40 broad ; saw no breakers excepting round the rock, and could 
 distinctly see the sea working over the rock. We sailed from the rock 
 
 II miles S. S. E. per compass, and ob. m. latitude 55 17' N. We then 
 bore up E. S. E. 36 miles, and E. by S. 6 miles, when Tory island bore 
 per compass S. W. ^ W. 1| mile." 
 
 H. M. S. Gannet was sent to examine this danger in 1824 ; the Harrier 
 and Badger in 1827; and the Pylades and Dispatch in 1829 ; but the 
 rock was not discovered. Again, in 1830, the Onyx and Leveret, two gun- 
 brigs, commanded by Lieutenants Dawson and Worth, and directed by 
 Captain A. T. E. Vidal, were engaged on this service. " They put to sea 
 on the 6th of June, when the moon was at the full, and, commencing their 
 examination at Tory island, proceeded nearly along its parallel of latitude 
 to the westward of all the given positions of the rock. The two vessels 
 were always in company, and the general practice was to sail on parallel 
 lines, distant from each other one mile to one mile and a half by day, and, 
 closing at night, to half a mile, or as much less as the state of the weather 
 rendered necessary. During the few hours of darkness experienced at 
 that season of the year, the vessels were hove-to, that no part of the sus- 
 pected ground might be passed unseen, and the leads were kept going, 
 both day and night, from the depth of 150 to 200 fathoms. Their distances 
 from each other were determined every hour, by the angle of elevation 
 subtended by their respective masts, at the heads of which balls had been 
 placed to facilitate the measurement. Their mutual bearings were taken 
 at the same time ; and men were kept constantly at the mast-heads during 
 the day, and a vigilent look-out preserved through the night. 
 
 The parallel of latitude of Tory island, as above mentioned, was first 
 carefully examined, to the westward of all the positions of the rock, and 
 then traversed back again. These runs were laid down on the chart, and 
 then other lines traced, until the whole space was explored, as there ex- 
 hibited. This system of crossing and re-crossing over every part of the 
 suspected ground, was persevered in, until the 31st August ; when, having 
 visited every position assigned to this danger, and indeed the whole space 
 comprehended by them, without seeing any rock, or discovering any de- 
 tached bank, which could indicate its having existed, the search was re- 
 linquished, and the vessels returned to England." 
 
 4. THREE CHIMNEYS. Mr. Heron, of Greenock, in 1824, says, 
 " I am informed by the master of a merchant-vesssel, that the Chimneys 
 actually exist, for a whole watch as well as himself saw them. They were 
 seen about twilight, and three heads were distinguished. From an obser-
 
 92 
 
 ration taken at the preceding noon, it was inferred, that their latitude, as 
 laid down on the chart, is very near the truth." 
 
 5. CHAPELLE ROCK. ABSTRACT FROM THE LOG OF THE BRIG 
 GRACE DARLING, OF LIVERPOOL, JAMES TASKER, MASTER. "9th August, 
 1842. At 1 h. 30. m. P. M., breakers seen close to the vessel, and a sunken 
 rock observed distinctly and repeatedly above water, in the hollow of the 
 sea, which clashed together and broke much. Supposed the rock might be 
 about 4 feet below the usual sea level. It was witnessed by the whole 
 crew of the vessel, which passed within her own length to windward of it, 
 then going about 7^ knots. Supposed it to be the Chapelle rock, of 1786 ; 
 its circumference appeared to be about 40 feet ; it was of a sandy colour, 
 like freestone, and no weed appeared on it. All on board were much 
 alarmed. Latitude in, carried on from a good meridian observation, 47 
 43' N., and longitude, reduced from chronometric observations, at 9 h. 
 30 m. A. M., and 3 P. M., 8 4' 30" W. The chronometer was No. 2050, by 
 Mr. Henry Frodsham, from whom her rate had been obtained only nine 
 days before, and its accuracy subsequently confirmed by excellent distances 
 of sun and moon, on the 27th August ; and again by making Deseada on 
 the 5th September. So the existence of the rock in the assigned position 
 may be relied on." Nautical Magazine, 184>3,page 48. 
 
 6. DEVIL'S BOCKS. CAPTAIN HENDERSON, of the ship Fortescuc, 
 on a voyage from the island of Mauritius to London, in 1829, states, " On 
 the 25th of April, steering N. E., close hauled, after experiencing contrary 
 winds for several days, about 4 p. M., while observing the sun's altitude for 
 chronometer, I was alarmed by a cry of * a rock on the lee-bow.' I im- 
 mediately ran to leeward, and observed a rock of a brown colour, about 
 12 feet long, and nearly as much in breadth, about 2 feet above water. We 
 observed the water to recede around it. Being rather squally, and fearing 
 that some other unknown danger might be around us, prevented me from 
 sounding. The latitude, at 4>p. ., carried on from meridian altitude that 
 day, was 46 33' N., and mean longitude, by lunar observations the same 
 morning, by the sun, moon, and chronometer, was 13 2' W. As these 
 things are considered imaginary, I only have to observe that this danger 
 certainly exists very near the position mentioned." 
 
 Subsequently to the above being made public, another captain writes 
 from Madeira : " On the day I sailed from Liverpool, it was published in 
 the Mercury, that the Devil's rocks, which had not been seen since 1764, 
 had been discovered by the Fortescue, of Dublin, and stated to be in lati- 
 tude 46 33' N., longitude 13 5' W. This determined me to look out, 
 and I accordingly discovered them when within two miles of them. We 
 saw the water breaking upon them, very high, and as it receded, the rocks 
 were discernible ; we were going nine knots at the time, and had the 
 wind not been very strong, I do not think they would have been observed. 
 In fine weather, I am of opinion that the water would not break upon 
 them I did not heave to, when I neared them, to take an observation, 
 but made one soon after ; and from the distance we had ran, I made them 
 lie in latitude 46 36' N., longitude 13 8' W., being nearly the same as 
 the Fortescue. These rocks lying directly in the track of ships bound 
 into the English Channel, this information should be made as public as 
 possible." 
 
 EXTRACT OF A LETTER FROM LIEUT. SPRIGG, COMMANDING H. M. S. 
 BRISK, 1842. " Sir, I have the honour to add, that H. M. brig under my 
 command, on the 6th of August, was distant from the Devil rock, at noon, 
 thirty-five miles, and, doubting its existence, I shaped a course directly for it. 
 At 7 P. M., whilst looking over the taffrail, my attention was suddenly
 
 93 
 
 attracted by a change in the colour of the water under the ship's counter, 
 which had been of a blackish green. On looking over the starboard quar- 
 ter, the change to whitish green was more vivid, extending in a N. N. W. 
 and S. S. E. direction for a mile and a half, its greatest width, close to our 
 wake, about three-quarters of a mile, having very irregular and indented 
 sides, in bold outline with the dark water surrounding it. A heavy swell 
 from the north-west seemed smoother over the patch, without any visible, 
 break ; but that it was a shoal, no doubt exists on my mind, or on many 
 that saw it. The mast-head man unfortunately did not report it, though 
 he admits having seen it three miles before reaching it, and about the same 
 before he lost sight of it astern. From the deck, m about fifteen minutes 
 it disappeared, preserving its shape and colour to the last. 
 
 " The sun was 6 or 8 degrees high at the time, the vessel going 8 knots ; 
 and as we had no more than four days' provisions on reduced allowance, 
 I did not feel justified to return and sound, nor would I have attempted to 
 pass over it in the brig. Its situation by our reckoning, deduced from after- 
 noon sights, by the sea, and the planet Jupiter, places the spot in latitude 
 46 12 7 N., longitude 15 3' 30" W." Nautical Magazine for 1842, 
 page 793. 
 
 7. VIRGIN ROCKS. We are happy in being enabled to state the re- 
 sult of the observations of Captain BISHOP, of H.M.S. Manley, and Mr. Rose, 
 master of H. M. S. Tyne, then commanding the cutter Inspector, both of 
 whom returned to St. John's, on the 9th of July, 1829, after a second at- 
 tempt (in w r hich they were successful) to ascertain the actual situation of 
 the Virgin Rocks : The bank, on which the shoal is situated, extends 
 E. by N., and W. by S., 4^ miles, its broadest part 2f miles ; the soundings 
 are regular, from 28 to 30 fathoms, deepening suddenly on the outer edge 
 to 39 and 42 fathoms ; the rocks are in latitude 46 26' 33" N., longitude 
 50 56' 35" W. extending in an irregular chain S. W. by W., and N. E. 
 by E., 800 yards, varying from 200 to 300 in breadth ; the least depth of 
 water is on a white rock, in 4^ fathoms, with 5 to 63 fathoms all around 
 it, the bottom distinctly visible. Towards the extremities of the shoal 
 are several detached rocks, of from 7 to 9 fathoms, with deep water be- 
 tween, and a current setting over them, W. S. W., one mile an hour, with 
 a confused heavy swell. 
 
 8. MARINER'S ROCK. Extract of a letter from Mr. Swinton, 
 master of the ship Mariner, from London to Miramichi, .dated llth of 
 May, 1831 : 
 
 " At 9 A. M., on the 20th of April, we had a very narrow escape of being 
 lost. The ship was laid to the wind, under a close reefed main-topsail 
 and main-trysail, in a heavy gale from the westward, and a high sea, when 
 we saw the sea breaking on something to leeward, not more than 50 or 
 60 yards from the ship, which we at first took for a vessel bottom up- 
 wards ; but on nearing it, it could plainly be seen to be a large rock, about 
 60 feet in length, ragged at the top, and high at one end, with weeds 
 growing on it. We set the fore-trysail, and just cleared it not more than 
 thirty yards' distance. By the observation at noon, and longitude by 
 chronometer, it lies in latitude 46 0' N., and longitude 29 37' W., not 
 laid down in the chart, and I think will only be seen when there is a heavy 
 sea running ; but we could see it very plainly in the hollow of the sea. 
 The south end appeared to be the highest part of it. Sights were obtained 
 for the chronometer at half-past 9, and the meridian observation was 
 very good." 
 
 9 INDEMNITY ROCK. "The ship Indemnity, at sea, at 3 p. m., 
 discovered a rock on the starboard beam, distant about three ships' lengths ;
 
 94 
 
 they were then going at the rate of about 2^ miles an hour, with a heavy 
 swell from the N. W. : with each succeeding swell, it was entirely covered, 
 but at intervals it showed several feet above water, and perfectly perpen- 
 dicular. From the mast-head, it was seen to a great depth below the 
 water, and appeared to be in the shape of a cone. At the preceding noon, 
 our latitude, by obversation, was 43 20' N., and longitude, by chrono- 
 meter, 25 10' W." Signed, R. WOODALL, master; F. E. CHALMERS, 
 mate. Times Newspaper, IQth September, 1829. 
 
 10. BEAUFORT BANK. LIEUT. A. SAINTIIILL, R. N., commander 
 of the ship Beaufort, lately returned from Jamaica, informs us, that on 
 the 3rd of August, 1832, when in latitude 42 37' N., and longitude 41 45' 
 W., he observed the water to be discoloured ; in consequence of which, he 
 tried twice for soundings, and found rocky ground at the depth of 100 
 fathoms. Lieut. Sainthul is also of opinion, that soundings might be found 
 from the meridian of 20 W. to the banks of Newfoundland. Nautical 
 Magazine, 1832, page 393. 
 
 11. THE AMPLIMONT ROCKS. Extract of a letter received 
 from CAPTAIN THOMAS ALDERSON, of the Morning Star : " On the 13th 
 of May, 1842, I sailed from Baimbeeuf for Quebec, with the wind at N. E. 
 We had a fine run to long. 19 44' W. On the 23rd of May, (at noon, in 
 lat. 42 31' N., by two good observations, and long. 24 3' W.), at ? h. 
 20 m. P. M., I passed a rock within two ships' length. When 1 first saw 
 it, it was a little before the larboard beam, and appeared like a ship's an- 
 chor-buoy. When it came on the quarter, I saw the sea-weed quite plain 
 Upon it, as did also the watch on deck. Another part of the rock we saw 
 under water, about 8 or 10 feet from the rock we saw above water ; at 
 intervals it was covered and uncovered, We had not much swell on at the 
 time ; fine pleasant weather. At the time of passing the rock, the ship 
 was in lat. 42 51' N., and long. 24 15' W. The rock was seen a con- 
 siderable time after we passed it. Wind at the time, W. N. W. ; ship's 
 head north, going 3 and 85 knots per hour." 
 
 In M. Bellin's Memoir, of 1742, a danger is mentioned in lat. 42 30' N., 
 and long. 24 5' W., which was seen in 1735, by M. Guichardi, commander 
 of the ship Dauphin, of Nantes. It has two points of rocks, separated, and 
 30 feet above water. He ascertained the height within a league of the 
 danger, which appears to be the same as that called La Basse d' Amplimont, 
 stated to be nearly in the same latitude and longitude. Some Englishman 
 has called it by the name of Edmund Knowles' rock, by whom it is sup- 
 posed to have been seen. 
 
 These rocks, appearing like the two masts of a brig, and nearly in the 
 position assigned, were seen by Captain Mills, in the brig Tamer, early in 
 1829. Nautical Magazine, 184:2, page 792. 
 
 12. DR*UID'S REEF. This reef was heretofore inserted from the late 
 Spanish chart, as seen in 1803, lat. 41 24' N., and long. 41 20' W. ; but the 
 authority under which it had been there introduced we cannot inform our 
 readers. On the 12th of April, 1831, Captain Tread well, in the Druid, of 
 London, passed this reef on his starboard hand, at not more than 30 yards 
 distant. The weather was calm, and he had taken a good meridian alti- 
 tude ; whence the latitude was assumed to be 41 19' N., and the longitude 
 by chronometer, which has always proved correct, 41 35' W. The reef 
 had the appearance of from seven to ten sugar-loaf heads, and its length 
 from E. N. E. to W. S. W. was estimated at from 10 to 14 feet. It was 
 about 3 feet above water. Nautical Magazine, 1832, page 12. 
 
 13. HERVAGAULTS BREAKERS. On the 12th of May, 1827, 
 Captain Maxwell, of the ship Home, on his passage from Liverpool to
 
 95 
 
 New York, fell in with three sunken rocks, with a tremendous sea breaking 
 on them, apparently from 4 to G feet under the surface, in lat. 41 2' N., 
 and long. 49 23' W., and about 30 feet in circumference ; the last of them 
 tailed off to the N. E. with a long ledge. Winds, at the time, W .8. W. ; 
 ship's head N. W., going 7 3 knots per hour. Captain Maxwell says, " The 
 chronometer I have with me can be depended upon to one mile, and the 
 latitude and longitude I have given is correct." This shoal is the Herva- 
 gault's breakers of the French charts. In 1816, it was seen by Captain 
 Lourp, of the brig Alexander Savage, who places it in latitude 41 6 23" 
 N., and longitude, by dead reckoning, 49 57' W. 
 
 14. WATSON'S ROCK. The particulars of this danger are thus 
 communicated by Captain Watson : " April 20th, 1824, at 8 a. wi., being 
 on the starboard tack, ship going 2^ knots an hour, moderate weather, a 
 man saw something a-head ; the helm was immediately ordered a-weather 
 to clear it, being very near it ; ship was only 15 or 20 fathoms to leeward 
 of it, which enabled me distinctly to make it out to be a rock, just even 
 with the water. Its head was round, and appeared to be about 3 fathoms 
 or more in diameter ; it was of a light green, with some branches of a red 
 colour. It was at times, on the top of a sea, invisible, but in the hollow of 
 a sea, several feet uncovered. From an excellent observation at noon, 
 I consider it to lie in lat. 40 18' N., long, by dead reckoning, 53 40' W." 
 
 15. ST. GEORGE'S BANK. This bank was regularly surveyed in 
 1821, by the United States' schooner Science, and the sloop Orbit, under 
 the orders of Captain Isaac Hall. The following description is a copy of 
 his report. " There are properly four shoals on St. George's bank ; the 
 whole of them are included between the* latitudes of 41 34' N. and 41 
 53' 30" N., and longitudes 67 18' W. and 67 59' W. Between them are 
 from 15 to 35 fathoms of water. 
 
 " THe largest, and on which is the greatest danger, is the most southerly 
 and westerly. It is somewhat triangular, with a long and narrow spit, 
 running out from the S. E. angle. The S. E. point is in latitude 41 34' N., 
 and longitude 67 40' W. The west point is in 41 42' N., and longitude 
 67 59' W. The N. E. point is in latitude 41 48' N., and longitude 67 
 47' W. The eastern side of the shoal, although somewhat irregular, 
 runs nearly S. S. E. and N. N. W., having on it from 3 feet to 9 fathoms 
 at common low water. This appears to be what is commonly called the 
 Malabar bank ; it is composed of a great number of sand-spits, very nar- 
 row, so that the width of a narrow vessel will make several fathoms dif- 
 ference in the depth of water. The general range of the spits is from S. E. 
 to N. W. As there are no rocks, they are consequently liable to change, 
 in some measure, their position and ranges. On their eastern edge, even 
 in calm weather, unless it be either high or low water, the tides run with 
 great rapidity, and form considerable breakers, when setting to the west- 
 ward. This is accounted for by a knowledge of the fact, that directly on 
 the edge of this shoal, there is from 12 to 16 fathoms of water, so that the 
 edge forms a sort of dam, stopping the force of the flood tide, and over 
 which the ebb falls down. 
 
 " When there was any considerable wind, we observed that the breakers 
 were higher within the edge, to the westward, than on the edge ; and there 
 is no doubt that the water there was still shoaler, and that we should have 
 seen the sand, had it not been for the heavy sea. The breakers were such, 
 unless it were entirely calm, that it was impossible to go among them with 
 boats. Nor was it considered safe to attempt with vessels ; for, besides 
 the danger of striking on the hard sand-spits, the vessels would have been 
 liable to have been fiBed by the breakers. Even on the eastern edge, and
 
 96 
 
 at nearly slack water, the vessels were, at times, nearly covered with them. 
 It was therefore not thought necessary to attempt it, as the object of the 
 survey, 'to ascertain if there was danger on the shoals, and the situation 
 and extent of this danger, could be accomplished without the risk. Had 
 not the sea been very smooth, and at high water, we should not have been 
 able to have gotten on where we found only 3 feet, when reduced to low 
 water. The prevailing wind was to the eastward ; and I have no doubt 
 that this place would have been bare, with any continuance of an off-shore 
 wind. I think there are no rocks about the shoals. We had one cast on 
 the S. W. side, which indicated rocky bottom, in 15 fathoms, but I believe 
 it to have been some sharp stone that the lead struck upon. 
 
 "The centre of the northern shoal is in latitude 41 53' 30" N., and 
 longitude 67 43' W. It extends east and west about 4 miles ; the shoalest 
 part, having 6 fathoms, is very narrow, and composed of hard sand ; but 
 there is not more than 12 fathoms of water for 3 miles to the southward 
 of the above latitude. On the north side, at two cables' lengths from the 
 shoal, the sloop dropped into 33 fathoms. The breakers on this shoal are 
 very heavy, and when there should be a sufficient sea to endanger a vessel, 
 they might be seen some miles, and heard at a considerable distance ; and, 
 as the shoalest part is not more than a cable's length inside, and no danger 
 near it, a vessel might avoid it. 
 
 " To the eastward of the last-mentioned shoal, in latitude 41 51' N., and 
 longitude 67 26' W., is another small shoal, with 8 fathoms water, having, 
 however, considerable breakers. There are but 17 fathoms for 3 miles to 
 the northward of it, but very near to the eastward are 31 fathoms, and 
 from 20 to 30 fathoms to the south and west. 
 
 " The centre of the east shoal is in latitude 41 47' N., and longitude 
 67 19' W. It is about two miles long from east to west, and has 7 fathoms 
 water. To the southward there are but 17 fathoms for two miles, but in 
 other directions there are from 20 to 30 fathoms. 
 
 " The above shoals, I am confident, are all which are on St. George's 
 bank ; then: positions and sizes may be relied on, as well as the soundings 
 which I have laid down. They were ascertained by a vast number of 
 celestial observations, taken with good and well-adjusted instruments, on 
 board the two vessels, and very carefully and faithfully calculated. The 
 rates of the chronometer were found by a transit instrument, previously 
 to sailing from Boston, and after our return, and all our observations re- 
 calculated for the small variation that appeared. 
 
 " At anchor in different places, and on different days, we determined the 
 set and strength of the tides, and, as nearly as possible, their rise and fall. 
 The rise of them is from one to one and a half fathom. They set round 
 the compass every tide, setting S. E. every full moon, and running from 
 one to four knots per hour, at a mile's distance from the breakers. The 
 mean rate is, however, materially varied by the winds. They set strongest 
 at W. S. W. and E. N. E., and which is, undoubtedly, the strength of the 
 flood and ebb. From these causes, and variety in the tides, arises a prin- 
 cipal danger in approaching the shoals. AVhen under way about the 
 shoals, in a few hours' time, we found ourselves drifted far out of our 
 reckonings ; and to ascertain our situations, when both vessels were under 
 way, we took continued observations for the longitude of the chronome- 
 ters, and at the same time double altitudes for the latitudes; which latter 
 were calculated by Broscius's new and certain method. By allowing for 
 the set of tides, as ascertained at anchor, the observations and reckonings 
 agreed very nearly, so that the latitudes and longitudes of every place 
 may be considered as certain. Should, therefore, any vessel fall in with
 
 97 
 
 these shoals, a knowledge of the course and strength of the tides will 
 prove of the greatest importance, and they can, by the preceding facts, be 
 calculated for any day and hour. 
 
 " In proceeding from Cape Cod to the shoals, at .5 leagues from the 
 light, there are 86 fathoms, muddy bottom. The water gradually deepens 
 to 133 fathoms, and then decreases towards the shoals. In latitude 41 51' 
 X., and longitude 68 11' W., there are 90 fathoms; in latitude 41 50', 
 and longitude 68 3', there are 49 fathoms, sand and gravel, on the western 
 edge of the bank ; the water then shoalens fast. To the northward of the 
 shoal, in latitude 41 59' N., and longitude 67 52' W., 011 the south side 
 of the north channel, there are 60 fathoms, soft mud ; in latitude 42 12' 
 N., and longitude 67 51' TV., there are 102 fathoms ; in latitude 42 10' N., 
 and longitude 67 18' W., there is no ground at 175 fathoms. To the east- 
 ward we did not ascertain the extent of the bank. Two miles southward 
 of the S. E. point of the shoals, there are from 20 to 26 fathoms, which 
 soundings continue 20 miles to the southward and westward. 
 
 The bottom on the bank, so far as we examined it, is of such a narrow 
 character, that it is difficult for a vessel to ascertain her situation by it : 
 we often found a great variety of soundings in a very short distance, such 
 as sands of various colours, stones, sponge, and shells. Notwithstanding 
 this variety, some general character of the soundings may be useful. The 
 mariner, therefore, will find, to the westward of the shoals, and at some 
 distance from them, the bottom to be coarse sand and gravel, of all colours ; 
 to the N. W., a mixture of white, black, and yellow sand ; to the north, 
 black and white sand ; to the N. E., chiefly gravel and pebbles ; to the 
 east, fine white and yellow sand ; and in latitude 41 57' N., and longitude 
 66 40' W., some white moss ; to the S E., fine white and yellow sand. 
 
 " As the shoals are approached, in whatever direction, the soundings be- 
 come coarse, and are frequently mixed with shells of different kinds. Near 
 the shoal, much of the bottom is pebbles ; and to the east of the largest 
 and most dangerous shoal, there are stones the size of hens' eggs, with moss 
 and sponge on some of them. 
 
 " Near the S. E. point is from 15 to 20 fathoms ; a prevailing character 
 of the soundings is green shells, chiefly of the species called sea eggs. If 
 a vessel be far enough south to avoid danger, she will have no shells. 
 
 "The reports that rocks have been discovered on these shoals are un- 
 doubtedly incorrect. At the western part of the bank we saw, in strong 
 tide-rips, large quantities of kelp and sea weeds, which, at a distance, had 
 the appearance of rocks, but, on sounding, we found good water, and a 
 regular and clear bottom. 
 
 " It will be seen by the bottom, that the holding ground is not good ; 
 but the vessels employed in the survey, by having a long scope of cable, 
 frequently rode out a considerable gale of wind, for 22 hours, on the east 
 side of the main shoal, and also to the windward of it, the sea breaking 
 very high at the time, we being in ten fathoms' water. 
 
 " It may be worthy of remark, that at one cast of the lead, on examining 
 the arm-ring, I found one-third black sand, one-third white sand, and one- 
 third green shells, in as distinct dimensions as they could be drawn." 
 
 16. BRETON'S ROCK. This shoal was seen by Breton, a pilot, of 
 Rochelle ; and again was seen in 1816, by the ship Tiger, on her passage 
 from Barbadoes to Liverpool. It is thus described by a passenger : "On 
 the 14th of March, at 10, a.m. a smart breeze from S. W., with studding- 
 sails set, g'ing 7g knots an hour, steering E. by N. true, in lat. 39 40' N., 
 and long. 41 40' W., we passed over a very agitated rumbling sea. Under 
 our starboard bow, in appearance about a circle of a mile, was a small field 
 
 o
 
 98 
 
 of dark brown rock-weed, apparently a confirmed fixture ; entangled with 
 the weed were two pieces of spar, seemingly very much decayed. I am 
 positive that this is a danger which ought to be carefully avoided by all 
 ships coming to Europe from the West Indies and America, as it lies 
 directly in the track." 
 
 17. HUME'S REEF. This danger was first made known by Mr. 
 Alexander Munn, of the brig Joseph Hume, on a voyage from Mobile to 
 Liverpool, the purport of whose communication is as follows : On the 
 22nd of August, 1827, they discovered a sand-bank, in latitude 39 N., and 
 longitude 64 20' W. ; they passed close to, saw the white sand above the 
 water, and sounded where the vessel then was, and found 20 fathoms, 
 sandy bottom, a quarter of a mile off. The mate requested of the master 
 permission to go for a few buckets of sand, but he would not grant it. The 
 bank was observed from the mast-head to be of a horse-shoe form ; the 
 opening of the shoe facing the S. W., and appeared in length to be not more 
 than half, or three-quarters of a mile. Mr. Munn further stated, that 
 they were obliged to bear up and sail to the westward of it, in deep water, 
 and supposed it to be on the eastern edge of the Gulf Stream. The longi- 
 tude here given cannot be supposed to be altogether correct, as it was not 
 determined by chronometer or lunar observation, but was calculated back 
 from the day on which they sounded on the eastern edge of the Great 
 Bank of Newfoundland. 
 
 18. PRINCESS ELIZABETH SHOAL. EXTRACT OP A LETTER 
 FROM LIEUT. SCOTT, COMMANDING THE PRINCESS ELIZABETH PACKET : 
 " On the 24th of April, 1828, at three .o'clock, p. M., I came on deck, and 
 immediately observed the water round the ship very green, and with every 
 appearance of being in soundings ; and, on looking before the starboard 
 beam, saw under water, at the distance of about two cables, what evidently 
 appeared, to the master and myself, to be a white sand-bank or rock, 
 which the water did not then break on, but it appeared so very plain, that 
 there could not be much water on it. In extent it was about one, or one 
 and a half cable, E. by N., and W. by S. (true bearings), and about half a 
 cable in breadth. Immediately on observing the shoal, I ordered the lead 
 and line up, but, ere it was ready, the colour of the water had changed to 
 a deep sea-blue, when it was evidently no use to sound : at that time we 
 were about a mile from the white spot ; we had at the time a good breeze, 
 but very little swell of the sea, for the Atlantic Ocean. I obtained two 
 sets of lunar distances the day before ; and at noon, on the 23rd, had taken 
 myself, with a sextant, the meridian altitude very particularly, in order to 
 obtain the time correctly for lunar distances, on the opposite side to those 
 taken on the 23rd ; and which I did obtain, and made the latitude of the 
 shoal 38 16' N., and by the mean of the luuars, which differed very little, 
 in longitude 39 48' 49" W. Owing to a defect in my chronometer, I was 
 not enabled to bring forward the longitude by it, but every care and at- 
 tention in my power has been taken to give its correct situation." Nautical 
 Magazine, 1832, page 12. 
 
 19. ROCKS NEAR THE AZORES. Copied from the Nautical 
 Magazine for \%4>0,page 881. " J. Manvel Marriano Ferreira, pilot, while 
 navigating from Paraiba to Lisbon, on board the Brazilian brig Constante, 
 as master and chief pilot thereof, and being to the westward of the Azores, 
 near the parallel, and not very distant from the meridian of some sunken 
 rocks, marked in the chart as doubtful, at 10 A. M., on the 26th of August, 
 1840, sailing in a northerly direction, with light winds from the E. S. E., 
 saw breakers to windward, at the distance of one to two miles. Shortly 
 after, it fell calm, and my vessel remained in the same position for six hours,"
 
 99 
 
 and in sight of the said breakers, so that I got the boats out, to keep her 
 head away and tow her out of danger. At noon, it being then high water 
 at that place, the surf had nearly disappeared ; at 2 p. M., it again became 
 perceptible ; and at 6 p. M., a group of rocks was clearly visible above the 
 water. By the latitude I had observed at noon, and the longitude given 
 by a good chronometer, and the rocks being about a mile and a half distant 
 from me, I compute their situation to be in north latitude 37 56' 20", and 
 west longitude 33 4' 8", from Greenwich. As the wind freshened, at 
 6 P. M. I made sail again, and having arrived in three days in sight of the 
 island of Flores, I found that my chronometer was perfectly correct. The 
 wind being east, I tacked to the southward ; and, on the 31st of August, 
 1 passed near another sunken rock, which is marked in the chart as having 
 been seen by Capt. Robson, to the westward of Fayal. At 8 A. M. I saw 
 some rocks above water, over which the sea broke, and which I passed to 
 leeward, at the distance of one to two miles. By observation, and the 
 chronometer, I calculate this second danger to be situated in north latitude 
 38 26' 44", and longitude west of Greenwich 30 25' 10", all which I cer- 
 tify without any doubt. Lisbon, Qth October, 1840." 
 
 20. TULLOCH ROCKS. Captain Henderson, of the Fortescue, 
 from Mauritius to London, gives the following particulars of these rocks : 
 "On the 17th of April, 1829, being in the exact parallel of the Tulloch 
 rocks, then in sight of the islands of St. Michael and St. Mary, the wind 
 fair and weather clear, I shaped a direct course for them, in order to con- 
 vince myself of their existence. At noon, observed the latitude by meri- 
 dian altitude 37 27' N., at the same time, the man who was placed at the 
 fore-topmast head, looking out, gave notice of seeing breakers ahead. I 
 stood on till I saw them myself, when I observed breakers in one bearing 
 from the ship W. S. W., the former about 4 leagues, the latter nearly two 
 miles : there appeared to be several heads near the surface of the water. 
 The wind being westerly, and heavy ground swell, (having a fair wind), 
 was the only cause of my not sounding. The mean longitude that day, by 
 moon and star Antares, and a well regulated chronometer, proved at St. 
 Helena and Ascension, was 24 3' W., amplitude,/?, m. 24 10' W., heavy 
 swell, and the compass very unsteady." 
 
 In the Nautical Magazine for 1832, page 170, is the following : " We 
 have before us the copy of a letter of Captain Henderson, commanding the 
 ship Fortescue, who states, that he saw the Tulloch rocks on the 17th of 
 April, 1829, in about the same position as before reported, but, unfortu- 
 nately, he did not try for soundings. On the application of the Trinity- 
 house, H. M. S. Ariadne, commanded by Captain F. Marryat, was sent in 
 search of these rocks, in the summer of the same year ; but, after taking 
 her departure from the Formigas, and steering a course which would have 
 carried her upon them, had they existed in their reported situation, nothing 
 was seen of them. The boats of the Ariadne were also sent in search of 
 them, in charge of the proper officers, and although the weather was fine, 
 and every thing favourable to their discovery, they could not be found. 
 We are, therefore, compelled to let the Tulloch rocks remain on the list of 
 reported vigias ; and the recent loss of the Zillah in that neighbourhood, 
 stated in our Miscellany, is a sufficient caution to navigators to beware of 
 undiscovered dangers near the Formigas." 
 
 21. DQEDALUS ROCK. The existence of this rock was confirmed 
 on the 6th of March, 1839, by Mr. John Aves, commander of the Tantivy, 
 of Plymouth. At 9 h. 30 m. p. m., this vessel, on her voyage from Zante, 
 passed close to the eastward of it ; it was not seen till close aboard, and 
 not avoided without difficulty. There was a swell from the N. W. break-
 
 100 
 
 ing over it, and a sheet of foam, about 20 to 25 fathoms in circumference. 
 The Tantivy stood in N. N. E. on the starboard tack, till 7 next morning, 
 then tacked to the southward, passing the cape at the distance of about 
 two miles. The rock was thus estimated to lie considerably to the east- 
 ward of its position as shown by the chart, and to bear about S. S. AA T . 
 true, 37 or 40 miles from the cape. 
 
 22. THE EIGHT STONES. Extract from the Nautical Magazine 
 for 1837, page 456. " According to M. D. Apres, these rocks were dis- 
 covered by Captain Vobonne, of London, in 1732 ; and by a vessel of 
 Bordeaux, going to the West Indies, Captain Vobonne counted eight rocks 
 even with the surface of the water. He placed the southernmost of them 
 in 34 30', and the northernmost in 34 45' N. latitude ; he gives them 
 3 leagues in extent from east to west, and adds, that the southernmost rock 
 is 40 leagues N., 5 E., true, from the east end of Madeira. M. Fleurien, 
 having considered that Captain Vobonne must have ascertained the latitude 
 of this danger, either by an actual observation when in sight of it, or else 
 by dead-reckoning, calculating his distance run from it to the east point of 
 Madeira, concludes, that in the latter case, if the east point of Madeira 
 were not laid down upon the charts, then, existing as it is now, the position 
 ascribed to this danger by Captain Vobonne, must partake of the error. 
 Now, the English and Dutch charts, of that time, lay down the east end of 
 Madeira in 32 30' N. lat. only ; and in an old English chart this danger is 
 laid down agreeably to Captain Vobonne's description, and on that chart the 
 east end of Madeira is placed in 32 30' In our chart, the reef appears ex- 
 tending from 34 40' N. to 34 50' N., in longitude 16 35' W. If, howevei, 
 Captain Vobonne determined its latitude by observation, then its position, as 
 given by him, will be correct. AVe have adopted the idea, that Captain Vo- 
 bonne ascertained its position by dead-reckoning, and have therefore placed 
 on the chart, according to the corrected latitude and longitude, and of course 
 rather more to the northward than Captain Vobonne, although nearer to 
 Madeira than he stated it to be. 
 
 " Messrs. Verdun, Borda, and Pingre, observe, how surprising it is that 
 a danger of such large extent should not have been discovered before the 
 year 1732, and that it should not have been often seen since, so much fre- 
 quented as these latitudes are. It is, however, inserted on the chart, 
 without pretending to vouch for its existence. In 1826, it was vaguely re- 
 ported at Madeira, that the Eight Stones had been lately seen." 
 
 Such is the account of the Eight Stones, and it would appear that the 
 vague report alluded to, of the shoal having been seen in 1826, may have 
 originated in the following circumstance, which we find mentioned in the re- 
 marks of Lieut. W. P. Croke, commanding the Emulous Packet, in 1 828 : 
 
 " The boatswain's mate, of H. M. P. Emulous, undr my command, 
 AVilliam Ward, who is a steady good man, and worthy of credit, states 
 that when serving in the merchant-ship Nautilus, of London, commanded 
 by a Mr. George Hall, a Lieutenant, R. N., they fell in with a shoal, as he 
 thinks, about 30 leagues to the N. W. of Porto Santo ; that a boat was 
 bwered, and he, the said William AVard, went with Mr. Hall, and plainly 
 perceived breakers, weeds, and the rocks ; that the weather was fine, and 
 that he heard his commander and the mate say, that ' these rocks must be 
 the Eight Stones.' AV. AVard does not know the latitude or longitude, but 
 says that both were well known to Mr. Hall, and that chronometers and 
 lunar observations were constantly used." 
 
 Lieut. Croke also adds, "I beg further to state, that during the last 
 voyage, on the 28th January, 1828, I passed over the spot where the Eight 
 Stones are laid down in the Admiralty charts, and consequently they do
 
 101 
 
 not exist there. It was a fine day, and I had three good chronometers, 
 which, on making Porto Santo, the next day, perfectly agreed." 
 
 The remarks of Captain Beccliy, published in his account, of the Blos- 
 som's voyage to Bhering Strait, and we may add those of the other officers 
 generally, are so much to the same effect, that we may save the reader a 
 repetition of them. But we may be permitted to observe, in conclusion, 
 that, though the existence of these rocks appears more than doubtful, yet 
 that it would be unwise and unsafe to expunge them from the chart, till 
 all the neighbouring sea has been ploughed by careful navigators. 
 
 23. ASHTON ROCK. Captain Guy, of the ship William Ashton, 
 discovered this danger, on the 22nd May, 1824. " About 12 o'clock, the 
 man at the wheel saw something on the starboard bow, distant about one 
 mile, which shortly proved to be a rock, having hauled the ship towards it, 
 and passed to the westward of it, about two cables' length. It was about 
 8 feet above water, and its base appeared about 100 yards in circumference, 
 on which the sea broke. By a good observation, the latitude was 33 48' 
 50" N., longitude, inferred from lunars the day before, 71 41' 20" W. 
 
 24. HARCOURT ROCK. North of Bahamas. Copied from the 
 Nautical Magazine for March, 1834, page 129. The following statement of 
 this reported danger is made by Captain C. Huntley, of the ship Governor 
 Harcourt. As we do not find that soundings were obtained near it, nor 
 even tried for, we must be content for the present in laying the account of 
 it before our readers, to place it on the list of doubtful dangers. 
 
 " I sailed from Belize, on the 17th of November, (1833,) and on the 30th 
 of November, about 8h. 40m. a. m., saw something on the lee-bow, and at 
 about 9 came abreast of it. I, with the rest of the officers and passengers, 
 saw distinctly that it was a coral rock. We were about 60 yards to the south- 
 ward of it, I immediately hove the ship to, and lowered down the quarter- 
 boat. Unfortunately the boat swamped, and with some difficulty, I got the 
 chief mate and boat's crew on board again. I got some very good sights 
 for an excellent chronometer, and by a very good observation at noon, and 
 by reducing the ship's run, I find that this rock lies in lat. 30 49' 15'' N., 
 and long. 78 27' 30" W. from Greenwich. It was about 8 feet above the 
 water, and in the fall of the sea it branched out to the N. N. W., about 
 30 feet distance." 
 
 25. GANDARIA REEF. EXTRACTS FROM THE GACETA DE MADRID, 
 MAY 28TH, 1842. " The pilot, and second captain of the Spanish merchant 
 ship Dolores Ugarte, (matriculated at Havana,) from Guayaquil, made the 
 following declaration on oath, at the residence of the captain of the port of 
 Corunna. That on Monday, the 18th of April, (1842,) 107 days from 
 Guayaquil, they saw from the deck of that vessel, a group of rocks, about 
 a cable's length in extent, and in the middle of them a large one, high and 
 insulated, on which the sea broke violently. The latitude at the time, they 
 were seen was 25 29' 55" N., and longitude 31 0' 30" W. The latitude 
 observed at noon was 25 40' 45" N., and longitude also, 31 12' 2', W. 
 from Cadiz, at the prudent distance, which the vessel was from the rocks 
 at the time, being that of four miles. 
 
 FROM THE GACETA DE MADRID, OF IST OF AUGUST, 1842. In the 
 Gazette of the 28th of May last, notice was given from this office of a new 
 vigia, named the Gandaria Rocks, being placed on the chart, and to which 
 was assigned an uncertain position for want of more certain information. 
 Having since received more exact accounts, this office, in compliance with 
 its promise, proceeds to inform seamen, that the said may be considered as 
 existing in the position assigned to it, the observations for latitude being 
 excellent, and also those for longitude with the chronometer. Consequently
 
 102 
 
 it has been inserted in our charts without the notice " doubtful," which 
 had previously accompanied it. 
 
 With reference to this danger, it may be also added that, in the archives 
 of this office, is a statement of Capt. Don J. P. Garcia, -dated Corunna, in 
 the year 1790, in which, among the notices he had obtained, he gives the 
 position of certain dangers, and among them one, which he places in lat. 
 25 20' N., and long. 31 22' 27" W. of Cadiz, which may be the same 
 rock as that discovered by Gandaria, as the small difference of situation 
 might very well arise from the instruments used in that day. As the above 
 document contains no authority, nor states whether the position of it is ob- 
 tained from estimation or observation, nor any reference by which its 
 existence might be removed from doubt, it was not inserted in the charts 
 with the view of not increasing the vigias on them. Now it becomes the 
 duty of this office to publish every thing which may tend to shew its 
 undoubted position. 
 
 26. MARIA AND BONETTA ROCKS, &c. &c. Extracts from a 
 letter, addressed to the Secretary of the United States' Navy, by Lieutenant 
 Commandant Charles Wilkes, commanding the South Sea surveying and 
 exploring expedition, and dated on board the sloop Vincennes, at Rio 
 Janeiro, November 27th, 1838. " The first reported shoal was the MARIA 
 ROCK, in latitude 19 45' N., and longitude 20 50' W., which we stood for, 
 and hove-to near the position, until we had ascertained our situation cor- 
 rectly by careful observations. The vessels were then spread, and the 
 course marked, to run directly over the spot. The surface of the ocean, 
 visible at the time from the squadron, was not less than 60 miles in circum- 
 ference, with every opportunity which the clear weather could afford, and 
 sufficient swell of the season to have caused breakers on any shoal within 
 1 5 feet of the surface. Nothing, however, was discovered, and no bottom 
 could be found with 300 fathoms of line. The next position examined was 
 BOM FELIX SHOAL, said to be within 30 miles of the Maria rock ; this we 
 searched for in the same manner, but were equally unsuccessful. We then 
 stood for the place assigned to the BONETTA SHOAL, to the eastward of 
 Bonavista, said to be in latitude 16 32' N., and longitude 20 37' W. 
 We in like manner hunted for this, and after exploring the locality of its 
 position on the chart, I steered on the course of its reported bearing, E. by 
 N. from Bonavista, until nearly up with the HARTWELL REEF, lying in 
 sight of Bonavista, which has, without doubt, been taken for, and reported 
 as, the shoal called Bonetta. Our enquiries at St. Jago assured me, that 
 the Madeline (the vessel last wrecked) was cast away on the Hartwell 
 reef, which has been reported as the Bonetta shoal. 
 
 " I am well satisfied that the positions assigned to the above three shoals, 
 on the chart and their vicinity, are free from all dangers. I am of opii 
 also, that the particular and indefatigable search made by Captain Barti. 
 lomew, of H. M. S. Leven, and the opportunities afforded me of covering, 
 with the squadron of five vessels, so large a space, at the same time, ought 
 to be sufficient evidence that no such dangers exist, as they are laid 
 down in those positions, and should cause them to be obliterated from 
 the charts. 
 
 " From Port Praya we steered for PATTY'S OVERFALLS, as laid down in 
 the chart, in latitude 11 N., and longitude 24 30' W., and had a good 
 opportunity of examining their locality. A few rips were observed within 
 a degree of the situation assigned them, but little or no current was found ; 
 and I feel confident in asserting that no danger exists in this vicinity, as we 
 were becalmed in the position, and in close proximity to it for 48 hours, the 
 squadron as usual being spread apart, and having a broad expanse of ocean
 
 103 
 
 under view. Owing to contrary winds, it was some days before wo 
 reached WARLEY'S SHOAL, said to be in latitude 5 4' N., and longitude 
 21 25' W. This point was also carefully examined, but no shoal, or ap- 
 pearance of shoal water, or any danger, discovered. 
 
 " Our next examination was of a FRENCH SHOAL, said to be (as laid 
 down) in latitude 4 5' N., and longitude 20 35' W This was also ex- 
 amined, and no danger or appearance of shoal discovered. From this point 
 I took advantage of the southerly wind, and proceeded east, which carried 
 me as far as 13 of west longitude, and over the position assigned to the 
 shoal by the French hydrographers, to enable me to cross the equator east- 
 ward of the 1 7th degree of west longitude. We succeeded in crossing the 
 equator in that longitude on the 5th of November, and then stood off the 
 Triton's bank, said to be in latitude 32' south, and longitude 17 46' 
 west. When within a short distance of its position, the squadron hove-to, 
 for the purpose of ascertaining our position accurately ; after which, a 
 course was steered nearly west. Being at the time well to the eastward, 
 we ran on a line due east and west over it, the vessels of the squadron 
 being spread about three miles apart, on a line north and south. We did 
 not, however, find it in our progress, or any bottom, or indication of 
 soundings ; no discolouration of water was visible, or change of tempera- 
 ture, although the line extended 30 miles east and west of its reported 
 position ; after which, we again stood to the north, and ran over a xigw, as 
 laid down on the charts, but none such was found in existence. Our next 
 examination was for BOUVET'S SANDY ISLAND, which was, in like manner, 
 carefully searched after, in and around its position, as laid down in the 
 charts, but our search was equally unsuccessful." 
 
 " Finally, search was made in and about latitude 2 43' S., and longitude 
 20 35' W. Extending to the N. N. W. of this point a distance of 30 
 miles, hereabout having been assigned as the situation of the sub-marine 
 volcano, reported by Admiral Krusenstern, which it was supposed might 
 have left a shoal. This locality was twice run over in different directions, 
 and carefully examined, with the squadron in open order, but none such 
 was found in existence." 
 
 " Lieutenant Hudson, of the Peacock, having separated from me on the 
 1 6th of October, proceeded on a different course, in search of the same shoals 
 which we were looking for, but was equally unsuccessful in finding any, as 
 appears by the following extract from his report to me, which affords fur- 
 ther evidence, if it were needed, of their non-existence. 
 
 " ' Having separated from you on the 16th of October, it was not until 
 the 23rd that I had worked up to the WARLEY'S SHOAL ; and, at 8 o'clock 
 that night, was directly on the spot where it was laid down on the chart. 
 V placed good look-outs, and kept our patent lead going, for 50 miles, 
 IK fore reaching the location of this shoal, as laid down on the chart ; also, 
 observing our drift at night, in hope of sweeping over it at early day-light. 
 I continued cruising in this vicinity in various directions, getting casts of 
 lead in from 50 to 100 fathoms, without finding bottom. I now continued 
 my examination, and after having swept over a circle of 40 or 50 miles, in 
 different directions, am perfectly satisfied that Warley's shoal exists no- 
 where in the neighbourhood laid down on the chart. 
 
 " ' I then proceeded for the FRENCH SHOAL, the wind ahead, (S. by W.) 
 where I arrived on the 25th of October, and continued cruising all the fol- 
 lowing day, with a fine breeze, immediately over the location of the shoal 
 as laid down, and in every direction, for miles in its vicinity. After thus 
 thoroughly searching the English locality of this shoal, I directed my course 
 for the French position, 76 miles distant, making nearly an east course,
 
 104 
 
 with look-outs and the lead going, until I had run immediately over and 
 around the spot, sailing in various directions a distance of 40 miles, with- 
 out effect. 
 
 " ' I then made the best of my way for the TRITON BANK, with the wind 
 veering and hauling from S. S. W. to S. S. E., and passed the equator, on 
 the night of the 3rd of November, in longitude 17 40' W., and continued 
 over and around the locality of that bank, until the morning of the 5th, 
 getting casts of the lead during the time, in from 50 to 250 fathoms, up 
 and down, without finding bottom. I have, in our search, fully satisfied 
 myself, and hope our examination will prove equally so to you and all 
 others that these shoals do not exist.' " 
 
 27. DELAWARE SHOAL. Captain Ross, in the brigantine Dela- 
 ware, from Charleston, on the 16th September, 1839, at noon, in latitude 
 10 38' N., struck soundings in 37 fathoms, shells and sandy bottom. 
 At 3 p. m. steering south, passed over a rocky bank, having 5, 7, and 10 
 fathoms, and bottom plainly seen : inferred from the distance run that the 
 latitude of the shallow part of the bank must lie in 10 37' N., longitude, 
 by chronometer, 60 3' "W. ; at 3^ p. m. had 70 fathoms water. 
 
 28. ST. PAUL, OR ST. PENEDO DE ST. PEDRO, is a cluster 
 of five steep craggy rocks, without verdure, covered with birds' dung, and 
 with no place fit for anchoring, or convenient for landing. This small 
 island has been seen by Indiamen, both outward and homeward bound, 
 although it is considerably to the westward of the common course of the 
 latter ; and no ship bound to the southward should cross the equator so far 
 west. Its appearance is that of a heap of rugged rocks with gaps between 
 them, and a modern navigator has said a vessel may be aground upon 
 them in the night, unless the* surf beating up against them should be loud 
 enough to apprise him of his danger, for close to them are 30 and 40 
 fathoms water. This islet, or properly speaking islets, may be seen at 
 the distance of 3 or 4 leagues, and always makes like three sail when 
 first seen. The current, hereabouts, sets N. W. by N. (true) one mile 
 an hour. 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 THE COAST OF AFRICA. 
 
 TANGIER BAY affords convenient anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms, but 
 caution is required to avoid a rocky shoal on the eastern side, bearing 
 S. E. by E. E. from Tangier point, and S. W. by W. W. from Cape 
 Malabat ; the latter cape in a line with Europa point. Gibraltar leads 
 clear of it, so that it will be proper to anchor with Gibraltar open of the 
 cape. Moor to the N. "W. and S. E. with the longest cable to the N. W. 
 Implicit obedience should here be observed to the advice given by the 
 consul, in your intercourse with the natives. About three-quarters of a 
 mile distant, N. by W.-^ "W., from Cape Malabat is the Almirante, a 
 rock of 3 fathoms; and there is also a sunken rock about the same 
 distance from Tangier point, which lies with the inner coast of Tangier 
 S. by W. (S. by E.) 
 
 CAPE SP ARTEL, the N. W. point of the state of Morocco, is so high as 
 to be seen, in clear weather, at the distance of 14 or 15 leagues, appearing 
 like an island. The outer point, when seen from a short distance west- 
 ward, appears uneven, with eminences on it like hummocks, and the high
 
 105 
 
 lands resemble the awning of a galley. The ground about the cape is 
 quite clear, with the exception of some high rocks, steep-to. At the dis- 
 tance of two miles from shore are 98 fathoms, the bank immediately 
 dropping to an unfathomable depth. To the southward of the cape, the 
 bank extends much further off, and there is excellent anchorage on a bottom 
 of mud and sand, with shelter from easterly winds. 
 
 HYDROGRAPHICAL NOTICE. H. M. S. Dido, March, 1838. " From Cape 
 Spartel, the direction of the coast is S. VV. for 20 miles to Arzilla, a small 
 fortified town, situated close to the shore, between which and Cape Spartel 
 there is good anchorage all along the shore, with an easterly wind. The 
 depths of water are regular, as you will have from 10 to 15 fathoms, 
 from 1 to 2 miles off shore, on a sandy bottom : the coast line is a flat 
 sandy and shingly beach, rising to a fine grazing country in the interior. 
 THE ROAD OP JEREMIA, the usual anchorage near Cape Spartel, extends 
 from it 8 or 10 miles to the S. W. We anchored in the following positions 
 near Arzilla, in smooth water, and well sheltered from a strong Levanter : 
 1st anchorage, Cape Spartel, N. E. ^ N. ; town of Arzilla, S. by W. f W. ; 
 extremity of land to the right, two points nearly in a line, S. W. by S. ; 
 in 15 fathoms, sand and small shells. From this anchorage to the nearest 
 shore was about 1^ mile; soundings very regular to a depth of 5 fathoms, 
 which was two cables' length from the shore. 2nd anchorage, Cape 
 Spartel, N. E. f N. ; centre of town Arzilla, S. ^ E. ; two bold and pro- 
 minent points to the S. W. of the town, nearly in a line, S. S. W. ^ W. ; in 
 13 fathoms, coral rock, gravel, and sand." 
 
 " Nearly midway between Cape Spartel and Arzilla is the village of 
 Almadrones, near which landing can be effected. One of our boats, 
 sounding in this vicinity, landed, and on two officers and two seamen, part 
 of the boat's crew, walking not more than a hundred yards from the beach, 
 in hopes of procuring stock, (numerous heads of cattle grazing in the 
 vicinity) they were immediately seized by a party of Moors ; three were 
 detained and conveyed into the country, the fourth person having effected 
 his escape. The ship, then lying at her first anchorage, was soon under 
 way and run down off Arzilla, demanding from the governor the officer and 
 men detained. A party of Moorish horsemen were now sent to scour the 
 country, who found them on their road to Tangier under a guard : on this 
 they were escorted back to Arzilla, but were refused to be delivered up 
 until permission was granted by the governor of Tangier. The delays 
 were so protracted that we anchored (to make a serious demonstration) off 
 the town, in 4g fathoms water, at about 600 yards distant from the shore, 
 and 150 yards outside a reef of rocks, a wash, which describe a semicircle 
 without the beach line, (affording good shelter under its lee) the principal 
 fortress bearing S. \ W. The next day we received our people, by per- 
 mission of the authorities of Tangier, and started from their inhospitable 
 shore. 
 
 " To account for the foregoing proceedings, it appears, by a treaty, that 
 trading is forbidden at any port on the Moorish coast, at which there is not 
 a British consul, or his agent. At Arzilla there is a Spanish Jew, in the 
 latter capacity, who behaved uncommonly well on this occasion. Now as 
 we landed only 5 miles from an authorised port, it appears they carried 
 this article of the treaty to its fullest extent. In fact it is generally 
 attended with fatal consequences for a Frank to land on an unauthorised 
 part, on any pretence, whether from distress, or a want of knowledge of 
 their customs. As a proof of the general ignorance of this custom, we had 
 on board, at the time of the above incident, five merchant captains, who 
 had been in the habit of trading to the S. W. ports of Morocco, who knew
 
 IOC 
 
 not that landing was against their laws ; and it is only to be regretted that 
 our consuls, in Morocco, should not give more general information on so 
 serious a point. Four or five miles to the N. E. of Arzilla is a small river, 
 called the Wad el Ayasha; it is barred across the entrance, but flows 
 sufficiently strong for a good supply of water, and the distance to roll the 
 casks (the boat being anchored clear of the surf) not above 50 yards." 
 
 From Arzilla the coast trends S. W. ^ W., and is easily distinguished by 
 a remarkable white patch which is seen nearly 15 miles off; but the best 
 mark for the coast is the Peak of Fas, an insulated mountain resembling a 
 sugar-loaf, which stands S. by E. ^ E. (S. E. 5 E.) from off the entrance 
 of El Araiche. The town of EL ARAICHE stands on the river Al Khos, 
 and will be known, when approaching it, by a large castle and batteries. 
 The best anchorage is with the town between the South and S. S. E. The 
 mouth of the river, which appears very broad, is really very narrow at 
 low water, and has then only 5 and 6 feet water over it, but there is a rise 
 and fall of 9 to 12 feet. Inside, the water deepens to 24 feet. A pap or 
 rising spot, on the north side of the river, is 200 feet high above the sea. 
 The best anchorage in the roads, for vessels intending to enter the river, is 
 with the distant conical mountain Fas, appearing in the centre of the en- 
 trance, one mile from the point, in 12 fathoms, sand. Supplies are abun- 
 dant, and there is a fine spring of water on the northern shore, very 
 convenient for shipping. 
 
 Between Arzilla and El Araiche, the ground is tolerably clean, but not 
 very good, being coarse gravel, with 25 and 30 fathoms of water, at from 
 one to three miles from shore. Before El Araiche the depth decreases, 
 and there are only 4 fathoms at two cables' length from shore. In sailing 
 along this coast, you must not advance too near, unless it be with a strong 
 easterly wind, for often, in calm weather, there is a heavy swell from the 
 West or N. W., which may render it difficult to get off shore. 
 
 The Peak of Fas, above-mentioned, serves as a mark for the old town of 
 Mamora, from which it bears nearly true east. The site of Old Mamora, 
 known by several white-washed tombs, the chief of which is that of Muley 
 Bu Selham, at the outlet of a stream, said to flow from a small lake, 20 
 miles to the southward of El Araiche. At two cables' length from the bar 
 is a depth of 5 fathoms, gradually increasing to 34 fathoms, at two miles 
 from shore. The coast between El Araiche and this spot is straight, and 
 for the most part upwards of 250 feet in height ; reddish cliffs for the first 
 10 miles, then sand-hills, partly covered with brushwood. There are every- 
 where from 20 to 25 fathoms of water, at half a league from shore, and 
 you may anchor off the coast hence to Slaa, or Salee. Ships sometimes 
 anchor here, during a calm, to avoid being drifted by the currents, which 
 set to the southward, along the coast ; and the velocity of which, especially 
 at the full and change of the moon, is frequently from one to two miles 
 an hour. 
 
 From hence, the coast extends 10 leagues, S. S. W., to Mehedia. The 
 coast is very clear, and readily known, being of white sand, as far as about 
 the middle of its declivity, while the upper part appears like cliffs. The 
 river Sebou, on the south bank of which the town is situated, is impassable, 
 except in boats, or on rafts, at some distance from the sea, although navi- 
 gable near the ocean. Here vessels may anchor half a league from shore, 
 in 12 or 14 fathoms, sandy ground, with the town bearing from S. E. by E. 
 to S. E. by S. All along this coast the swell is sometimes excessive on 
 the shore, which, with the S. W. winds, render it very dangerous. 
 
 Between Mehedia and Slaa, or Salee, the coast is rather low, and may 
 readily be known by its white sandy strand. About half-way, the strand
 
 107 
 
 rises, and thence, southward, the shore consists of black and steep rugged 
 rocks, with small hills. Salee, with the town of Rabat, is situated on the 
 river Bu Regreb ; the latter is rendered remarkable by the high tower of 
 Beni Hassan, which may be discerned, in fine weather, 20 miles off. It is 
 built of hewn stone, is 180 feet in height, 35 or 36 feet broad. At a small 
 distance to the northward of it, are the ruins of an ancient wall, on which 
 were formerly a battery and castle. There is a bar across the river, ren- 
 dering it only navigable for small vessels ; but there is a good anchorage 
 between the mosque and the tower, for ships of every, burthen, which, 
 however, can only be considered safe from March to the latter end of 
 August. Many anchors have here been lost, so that attention must be 
 paid to the cables. 
 
 The small peninsula of Fedala, sometimes mistaken for an island, affords 
 indifferent shelter to small vessels during westerly winds. A roadstead 
 here is supposed to be the only one, with the exception of Agadeer, in the 
 parallel of 30 27', wherein ships on the coast may ride in security during 
 winter. This is owing to a projection of the land, south of the peninsula 
 above-mentioned. Between Rabat and Point Fidallah, there is no danger 
 beyond a quarter of a mile from shore ; the bank of soundings extends to 
 the distance of 20 or 22 miles from the land, increasing south-westward. 
 About one league from the shore, there is a depth of 20 to 30 fathoms, 
 rocky ground ; it then becomes sandy, increasing to 60 and 100 fathoms. 
 At 4 leagues W. by S. from Fidallah, is Dar-el-Beida, a small walled town 
 on the beach, within a point projecting half a mile N. N. E., true, and 
 forming a cove, three-quarters of a mile deep, and well sheltered from 
 westerly winds. This place is easily known by its towers, one of which 
 seems almost as high as Hassan's tower, at Salee. The coast between is 
 low, and bordered with small islets, all very near the land. A reef of rocks 
 lie at one-third of a mile off the town, and the landing-place is behind 
 them. Some other parts of the bottom are likewise rocky, and in winter 
 the anchorage is unsafe, owing to the current, &c. From the cape, rocks 
 extend to the distance of nearly half a mile ; and further off, is a rocky 
 bank of 6 fathoms. At 20 miles to the west, is a depth of 150 fathoms, 
 dark sand, decreasing rapidly, toward the land, to 45 fathoms, at 12 miles 
 from shore, and then gradually to the beach. 
 
 About 13 leagues to the south-westward of Dar-el-Beida, is the small 
 town of Azamar, standing on the river Morbeya, but it affords no safe 
 anchorage : three leagues further, are the remains of Mazagan. This place 
 is on a low rocky point, projecting to the north, which forms the western 
 limit of a sandy cove, of about a mile and a half, and affording a good road- 
 stead for small vessels. It is defended by several redoubts, enjoys a little 
 commerce, excellent water, and good supplies. There is anchorage off the 
 coast, at one league from the shore, in 15 fathoms, clear sandy ground; 
 but at the west point of Mazagan, is a ledge of rocks, which stretch to the 
 N. E. (N. N. E.) about a league into the sea, and are uncovered at low 
 water. The shore hence to Cape Blanco (north) is rocky and dangerous 
 to some extent, and ships that stop here must anchor at two leagues off, in 
 35 or 36 fathoms of water, oozy ground ; the swell is almost always very 
 great, and the currents very strong. From Mazagan to Cape Blanco, the 
 distance is 4 leagues ; midway, are the rums of Tett, an ancient town, and 
 a conspicuous tower, 128 feet high, and 148 feet above the sea, which may 
 therefore be seen from a great distance. Two large tombs, kept white- 
 washed, stand on either side of it. The coast hereaoout should not be ap- 
 proached nearer than a mile and a half, as scattered rocks lie off the shore, 
 and the bottom is very uneven. The beach, in some places sandy, is
 
 108 
 
 generally lined with craggy rocks. A line of barren hills, 200 feet high, 
 slope to the beach along the whole distance, and terminate just to the 
 northward of the cape, in a low and dark, hut abrupt and rocky cliff. 
 
 CAPE BLANCO, NORTH, is somewhat remarkable, by its white and 
 red spots, and looks like a wall at a distance ; safe anchorage may be found 
 on the S. "W. side. At 22 miles westward of Cape Blanco, are soundings 
 of 150 fathoms, fine sand, gradually decreasing to 28 fathoms, at 4 miles 
 from the shore. The coast, 6 miles south of Cape Blanco, is 465 feet 
 high. Twenty-one miles S. W. of Cape Blanco, stands the mosque of 
 Edor, on the summit of the land, which is about the highest between Tett 
 and Cape Cantin. 
 
 CAPE CANTIN. Ten miles S. W. of Edor, is Cape Cantin, an abrupt 
 cliffy point, about 211 feet high, prominent and remarkable, when seen 
 from the N. E. or S. "W. It has a building very close to the point. Be- 
 tween this cape and Edor, the coast is in many places skirted by small 
 rocky islets, on one of which stands apparently a small fortress. Four 
 miles S. W. by \V. of Cape Cantin is a gravel bank, on which are 25 
 fathoms; and 16 miles westward from the cape, are soundings of 100 
 fathoms, fine sand : this depth gradually decreases eastward. From Cape 
 Cantin to the north point of ASFEE, or SAFFI BAY, the coast trends S. S. W. 
 (nearly south) 4 leagues, and is much higher than the coast already de- 
 scribed. Between these points, at the distance of a league from shore, is 
 a rocky bank, extending North and South, true, having over it from 30 to 
 40 fathoms, and at times abounding with fish. From the north point of 
 the bay (which is foul) to the town of Asfee, or Saifi, the distance to the 
 S. S. E. is 2^ leagues. 
 
 Between Cape Cantin and the bay of Sam, the coast is one continued 
 white cliff, with a sandy beach at its base ; the cliff, rising gradually to its 
 southern projection, is then 530 feet in height, and here the bay commences. 
 In the bight within is a ravine ; and on the slope stands the ancient town 
 of Saffi, surrounded by a wall 31 feet high, with a ditch, and defended by 
 24 heavy guns next the sea. Fresh water is scarce, and procured from 
 wells southward of the town. Although the road is safe in summer, yet 
 in winter, when it blows from the S. or S. "W., it cannot be considered so, 
 being much exposed to those quarters. 
 
 If bound to Sam from the northward, shape such a course as will lead 
 sufficiently to the westward of Cape Cantin, in order to avoid the rocks 
 about that cape. You may easily know on which side of Saffi you are 
 standing, as the land to the northward of the bay is high and uneven, and 
 that to the southward of it is a plain even land. During the summer 
 months, or from March to October, the bay affords as good anchorage and 
 smoother water than any other on the coast, but is entirely exposed to 
 westerly winds ; the bottom is of sand and mud, and there is generally a 
 depth of about 15 fathoms, at a mile from shore. Vessels may anchor at 
 a league from the town, in 20 or 22 fathoms of water, gray and oozy sand. 
 To anchor in the road, the north point, on which stands a low tower, must 
 be brought a little to the northward of N. N. E. ; or, further in the bay, 
 the same point may be brought North, (by compass) a little easterly, when 
 the northernmost of two northern points will appear about a ship's length, 
 open, without the southernmost, and the high castle of the town S. E. by 
 E. or S. E. ; the depths 16 to 18 fathoms, fine gray sand. There is also 
 anchorage within, in 15 fathoms, with the north point N. N. W., or N. by 
 W. ; but these are the summer roads. In the winter, you must anchor 
 further from the land, in 20 or 22 fathoms, as above-mentioned. You may 
 boldly run in to the summer roads by night, with the castle bearing E. by
 
 109 
 
 S., or East. From the south point of Saffi bay, which is very low, to 
 the mouth of the Wad Tansift, or River of Morocco, the coast treads 
 S. S. W. | W. (S. f W.) 16 miles, and presents generally a line of sand- 
 hills, from 150 to 200 feet high, which, in some places, terminate in low 
 cliffs, and in others, slope to the beach. There is a large tank on shore, 
 nearly midway between Sam and the Tansift ; and on the southern bank 
 of the river, is an old castellated building, square and roofless. The bar of 
 the Tansift, although a considerable river, is in summer entirely dry at 
 low water. 
 
 MOGODORE is the principal sea-port of the kingdom of Morocco, 
 distant from Asfee about 20 leagues S. W. The coast between, is fair, 
 clear, and moderately high. Mr. F. J. Evans, acting master of H. M. S. 
 Dido, says, " It is but little frequented, and that by the smaller description 
 of vessels. The exports, which consist principally of gum, wax, wool, and 
 skins, are chiefly in the hands of the English and Americans. As a har- 
 bour, it merits but little praise, although the best on this coast. The 
 harbour, or, as it is generally termed, the bay, is formed by two small 
 bends of the coast, like a horse-shoe, protected from the sea of the Atlantic 
 by the small rocky island of Mogodore, situated just without the converge 
 of the two bends. The town of MOGODORE is built on the sea coast, and 
 northern edge of the bay. It is well defended by nature, being completely 
 surrounded, on its sea face, by an abrupt collection of detached rocks, on 
 which the sea generally breaks heavily, barely admitting a landing under 
 their lee, except in very favourable weather. Its artificial defences are 
 apparently rapidly on the decay, but it still boasts its castles and bat- 
 teries, with guns mounted, and placed certainly in favourable points for 
 defence. It would be, perhaps, difficult to estimate the number of in- 
 habitants, but it would appear to be about 10,000, one-third of whom are 
 Jews. The annual number of trading vessels are about 40, few exceeding 
 200 tons. 
 
 " The island of MOGODORE, which lies about half a mile to the S. W. of 
 the town, is a black, barren, and uncultivated rock, about 80 feet above 
 the level of the sea. It lies N. E. by N., and S. W. by S., (true) half a 
 mile in length, and one-quarter of a mile in breadth, with several detached 
 rocks on its northern, western, and southern sides : the anchorage is under 
 its eastern shores. It is fortified and garrisoned by a small party of Moors 
 from the town, and being used as a place of confinement for state prisoners, 
 landing or communicating is not allowed, unless with the permission of the 
 governor of Mogodore. 
 
 "The entrance to the bay from the northward, is between the rocky 
 islets lying off the north end of the island, and those stretching to the 
 southward of the town ; a clear channel, of about 2 cables in width, with 
 from 7 to 9 fathoms water. The general depths, in the centre of the bay, 
 vary from 4 to 5 fathoms, rocky bottom, with a superficial covering of 
 sand. The actual clear space in the central part of the bay becomes very 
 much contracted, (a quarter of a mile being the fullest space) from thf 
 flats of shoal water running off the main shore, the rocky shoals off the 
 town, and a bar of 12 feet, at low springs, stretching from the S. E. part 
 of the island, to the converge of the two days before-mentioned. 
 
 " The usual anchorage is immediately under the central part of the 
 island, at half a cable's length from its shores, in about 15 feet, low water, 
 loose sandy bottom. A central position in the bay is directly open to the 
 swell of the Atlantic, which occasionally sets in, even in moderate weather, 
 with great violence, and vessels close under the island feel its influence, 
 with the wind from any direction, an instance of whichjwill be given. 
 
 men wi
 
 110 
 
 The bay, to the southward of the island, (that is between it and Cape Sem) 
 cannot be called an anchorage, and is only used as a point of egress, with 
 the wind from the N. E., which blows directly into the northern bay ; its 
 depths of water agree very nearly with its northern neighbour. 
 
 " To a stranger, there can be but little difficulty in getting to an anchor- 
 age in the harbour, with the prevalent or N. E. wind, taking the channel 
 to the northward of the island, steering midway between the rocks, and 
 ranging along the island's eastern shore, dropping anchor within half or a 
 whole cable of it, rather towards its S. E. point, mooring with a small 
 scope of cable, with open hawse, either to the northward or southward, 
 according to the prevalent winds or season of the year. On leaving the 
 anchorage, you will generally have to take the southern passage, running 
 over the bar which connects the island with the main, having, in mid- 
 channel at low water, springs 12 feet. The following mark, for running 
 over the bar, was communicated to me by the captain of a merchant vessel, 
 who had used it : The great mosque of the town, which is near the beach, 
 on with the centre of a house having an angular roof (being the only one 
 of that nature in the town) carries you out in mid-channel over the bar, 
 in 12 feet at low water springs, running out into the southern bay, until 
 you bring an old fort, on the sea beach abreast of the island, on with a 
 small mosque, similarly situated a little to the N. E. of it, which mark 
 will carry you clear out to seaward. It is necessary to observe, that the 
 sandy bottom of the bay is extremely loose, and at times collects, as I 
 proved, in creeping for anchors which had not been lost six weeks, and 
 were completely buried ; the harbour, notwithstanding, is not filling up, 
 no doubt from the great under-run, after a gale. 
 
 " A considerable loss of merchant vessels took place here, in a heavy 
 gale of wind from the S. W., in the latter end of January, 1838. They 
 were four in number, varying in tonnage from 110 to 250 tons, lying under 
 the island, in the berth before-mentioned, riding with three anchors ahead. 
 The dangers of their position did not arise so much from the violence of 
 the gale, as from the tremendous back-run of the sea, round the northern 
 entrance of the bay, being in direct opposition to the wind. The harbour, 
 even to the depth of 5 fathoms, was a complete mass of breakers, and 
 greatly discoloured, from the quantities of sand washed from the shores ; 
 the whole presenting a scene, as described by the sufferers, difficult to be 
 imagined. The consequence was, stern boats and windows were dashed 
 in, and deck cleared ; three, out of the four, drove from their anchors on 
 the sandy beach, close to the town ; and the fourth, after being thrown 
 several tunes nearly on her beam-ends, from the conflicting powers of the 
 wind on the bow, and sea on the quarter, was obliged, in the height of the 
 gale, to slip and run on shore. Fortunately, from being driven so high on 
 the beach, no lives were lost ; but they were seriously plundered by the 
 Moors, chiefly from the inland districts, which in a measure (by the reports 
 of the individuals) was connived at by the governor of Mogodore, although 
 protected by his guards. 
 
 " From the foregoing observations, it will be imprudent for vessels of a 
 large tonnage, and a draught of water exceeding 15 feet, (unless in fine 
 summer weather) to anchor in the harbour To vessels of a larger nature, 
 and paying a short visit, fair anchorage can be obtained outside the island ; 
 but this is open to the westward, from S. W. round to N. E. by E., and at 
 all times there is a swell setting in from seaward. In H. M. S. Dido, we 
 anchored in 13j fathoms, fine sand of a dark colour, and found the anchor 
 had very good hold, on weighing, after remaining two and a half days, and 
 riding part of the time with a fresh breeze and much swell.
 
 Ill 
 
 " BEARINGS OP ANCHORAGE : r x.* land to northward, N. E. by E. ; 
 castles of Mogodore (the governor's residence) S. E. by E. ; r x. rocks 
 off castles, S. E. E. ; 1 x. rock off island, S. by E. f E. ; r x. ditto, 
 S. W. by S. ; r x. land to southward, off Cape Sem, S. W. This an- 
 chorage was three-quarters of a mile off the castles. We had been in- 
 formed, on anchoring, by the pilot, who came off with the British consul, 
 that this was the best outer anchorage, but that the ground was loose. 
 The rise and fall of tide in the bay varies in height ; it generally averages 
 from 8 to 10 feet, but occasionally has been known from 12 to 14 ; it is 
 also generally regular in its ebb and flow, although its direction varies with 
 the wind, and other local causes. This question I have asked of several 
 traders, but they are not aware of any particular direction. No doubt 
 the flow rushes in direct from the westward, or body of the Atlantic. 
 High water at full and change is about 4 h. 30 m. p. m. 
 
 The CURRENTS along the coast inshore, it is said, will be found oc- 
 casionally setting to the northward, but well out in the offing, to the 
 southward. I am induced to agree with this statement, especially the 
 latter, having for several days found a slight set to the S. W. of a quarter 
 of a mile per hour : it is no doubt greatly influenced by the winds, in ve- 
 locity and direction. The WINDS along this coast generally blow from the 
 N. E. quarter, nine months is estimated as the average time ; it has con- 
 sequently received here the name of the regular trade-wind : with this 
 wind, the atmosphere is clear, and appearance fine ; winds from the south- 
 ward are productive of rain and cloudy weather. The stormy months are 
 in December, January, and February. 
 
 " On making Mogodore from seaward, the land to the northward is 
 rugged and high, some 15 or 20 miles, having observed it at a distance of 
 10 leagues. This was the range of iron mountains, (the highest peak, 
 2350 feet average height of range, 2100 feet.) On a nearer approach, 
 as the coast line rises, (which is barren and sandy, the tops of the sand- 
 hills being alone covered with verdure) it has a misty appearance near 
 the horizon. The town can be readily distinguished at a distance of 3 or 
 4 leagues, the mosque towers and castles showing out plain ; as also the 
 island, which, being a black rock, shows out boldly against the ranges of 
 sand-bills forming the sea coast, there being no similar feature on the 
 coast for many leagues. 
 
 " There is only one landing-place in the harbour, which is at the foot of 
 the castles, and called the ' Water Port,' being under a bridge connecting 
 a rocky group of islands (on which are fortifications) with the main ; its 
 passages are intricate and difficult to be described. In moderate weather, 
 it is tolerably easy to pull through the breakers, but in a gale, impracticable. 
 A stranger, in pulling in, will always be guided by the bystanders on the 
 rocks, and at the Water Port ; once performed, it is easily remembered. 
 A mark for the north-eastern passage, or one nearest the rocks, is the gate 
 of the Water Port, kept directly open. 
 
 " Water can only be procured in very small quantities ; the town is 
 supplied by an aqueduct from the fresh water river running into the sea 
 abreast of the island. It is generally impracticable to land on the beach 
 in its vicinity, and permission must be obtained for this. All supplies 
 must therefore be obtained at the Water Port, and they are brought there 
 by donkeys, at the rate of 2d. for ten gallons. The temperature of the 
 climate ranges between 70 and 50 during the year. Stock is not plentiful, 
 
 r x. and 1 x. right and left extremes of land.
 
 112 
 
 nor in good condition, and prices not very moderate at this season of the 
 year." Nautical Magazine for 1 839, page 373. 
 
 From Mogodore to Cape Geer, the course is S. "W. by W., by which you 
 will avoid the rocks that border Cape Tefelneh. The land about Cape Geer 
 (distant 6 leagues from the Cape Tefelneh) is very remarkable by a high 
 round hummock in the interior, visible at a distance of 12 miles. A reef 
 extends from the north side of the cape, some distance, so that it is ad- 
 visable not to approach in less than 20 fathoms water. About 9 leagues 
 from Cape Geer is the Cleveland reef, (the position of which will be found 
 in Table 2, page 89) having only 3 or 4 feet water on it. 
 
 AGADIER, OR SANTA CRUZ, stands about 6 leagues S. E. of Cape 
 Geer, at the bottom of an extensive bay, where there is an excellent well- 
 sheltered anchorage for vessels of all burthens ; but the commercial charac- 
 ter of this place having ceased, it is in consequence but little frequented. 
 The high land, extending from Cape Geer to Agadier, usually called the 
 heights of Idantenau, is the western extremity of the main chain of the 
 Atlas, which ranges hence in an E. N. E. direction, and rises at 9 miles to 
 the eastward of Agadier, to the height of 4,500 feet, and a remarkable 
 conical hill, nearly 4,000 feet. 
 
 At 6 or 7 miles to the N. W. of Agadier, above a point stretching into 
 the bay, is a good anchoring place, with from 20 to 12 fathoms. In sailing 
 from the cape to the road, be sure to run along by the land of the cape 
 till you are before the castle, because northerly winds are very prevalent 
 here ; and should you keep too far from shore you may be forced to fetch 
 it up again with difficulty. If coming in by night, approach no nearer 
 than in 12 or 14 fathoms. To anchor in the road of Agadier ', bring the 
 castle to bear N. N. E., and the storehouses E. N. E. Here you will be 
 to the southward of a rocky ledge, lying off the town, in 7 or 8 fathoms of 
 water. The best riding is with Cape Geer bearing north, in 6 or 7 
 fathoms. Care must be taken to have your anchors ready ; your small 
 bower is always to be laid out before the land-wind, and the others 
 to seaward ; the sheet-anchor must also be in readiness, and brought out 
 to the S. W. against a storm, which is soon perceived by the rising and 
 swelling of the sea. It is likewise necessary to keep the foresail to the 
 yard, that you may defend yourself the better, should you happen to.be 
 driven from your anchors. 
 
 At 5 miles to the southward of Agadier is the mouth of the Suse, a fine 
 river, rising at the base of the Atlas ; but the bar is dry at low water, and 
 can never be passed by vessels drawing more than 4 or 5 feet. The Wad 
 Messa, about 30 miles from the Suse, has likewise a bar, dry at low water, 
 but may have 4 or 5 feet over it at high water, spring tides. 
 
 At a few miles to the northward of the Messa are the Tomie, or Seven 
 Wells, off which is an open roadstead. From the Messa, southward, the 
 beach still continues sandy, but verdant hills, approaching the sea, break 
 off into cliffs, apparently of sand-stone, about 100 feet in height. In the 
 interior is a ridge of high mountains, at 50 or 60 miles from the coast. The 
 interval between appears like a wooded and well-cultivated country, with 
 many houses and farm-buildings. Immediately to the southward of the 
 cape is a little sandy bay, and a valley crossed by a hill, on which stands 
 the village of Aguluh : a small stream runs down the valley. At 12 miles to 
 the southward of Aguluh, the features of the country change ; the hills be- 
 come barren and abrupt, and form in successive ridges, gradually increasing 
 in height, till they join the line of mountains, which rise to the height 
 of nearly 4,000 feet, and appear to be the S. W. extremity of an off-set of 
 the Atlas. More to the southward, the appearance of the inland country
 
 113 
 
 continues the same, but the coast changes to dark red cliffs, broken into 
 coves, on the beaches of which boats may be seen. 
 
 In latitude 29 22' N. is a remarkable white cliff, which forms a good mark 
 for the coast ; behind it, and standing alone, is a conical shaped mountain, 
 rising to the height of 3,900 feet ; at 25 miles from shore are soundings 
 in 105 fathoms, broken shells; outside of this the bank drops very sud- 
 denly. On standing inshore the soundings decrease rapidly to 60 fathoms. 
 At 5 miles from shore are 28 fathoms, coarse sand ; the depth thence 
 decreases very gradually to the beach. From the cliff, above described, 
 the country assumes a more rugged and barren appearance ; the hills 
 steep, with deep and narrow ravines ; the coast, alternate cliffs and sandy 
 bays, with prominences rocky and rugged. In latitude 29 10' N. is the 
 Regula, or Gueder cove ; a rocky cliff on each side projects to a short 
 distance, the sides are steep and barren ; these are separated by a deep 
 and narrow ravine, down which a slender stream finds its way to the sea. 
 In this cove the water is deep, and bottom clean to the beach ; a landing 
 may generally be effected in it, but it affords no shelter. In latitude 29 
 3' N. the mountainous country terminates, and a sandy desert commences. 
 There is also a break in the coast, called the Rio de Playa Blanca, or 
 White Beach river ; at 4 miles to the southward of this the coast is of 
 bold sand-stone cliffs, with sand downs in the interior devoid of herbage, 
 and thus it continues to Cape Non. 
 
 CAPE NON is a cliff of sand-stone, 170 feet above the sea ; it is steep-to 
 and clear of danger. Here the depth gradually increases outward, and at 
 the distance of 4 miles from shore the depths are from 30 to 34 fathoms, 
 bottom of reddish sand ; at 12 miles, 57 fathoms, dark sand ; and at 30 miles, 
 98 fathoms, coarse red sand ; the water then deepens very suddenly. For 
 a long distance, both to the northward and southward of the cape, as well 
 as to seaward, the water is very much discoloured ; it has a red tinge, and 
 is so thick that the track of a ship is visible for a length of time. At 4 
 miles to the S. W. of Cape Non is the river Shleema, and at 31 miles more 
 is the Akassa. Each river has a bar, but both appear to have deep water 
 inside, and the banks of both are verdant and fringed with shrubs. The 
 Shleema, when well open, may be recognised by two remarkable hills, 
 which will then appear in the centre of the gap ; they are conical, and on 
 one of them, 325 feet high, are some ruins, said to be those of a fortress. 
 The coast between Cape Non and the Shleema affords secure anchorage, 
 with moderate depth of water, from the month of March to October. 
 
 From the river Akassa the coast and country continues as described 
 above. The cliffs are about 120 feet in height to the Porto Causado, a 
 fine sandy bay, having 9 or 10 feet within a cable's length of the shore. 
 The distance across is about 3 miles : the two outer points are broad, 
 closing to within one mile ; a ledge of rocks on each point, leaving a fair 
 entrance of half a mile in breadth, with deep water ; against these ledges 
 the sea breaks violently, but in the harbour it is smooth. From the wind- 
 ward side of the harbour a ship might lie very well, with the wind at 
 N. E. Its only distinguishing mark is a table hill, 580 feet high above the 
 sea. Nothing can be conceived more dismal than the appearance of the 
 shore hereabout. For many miles not a dark spot is to be seen to break 
 the monotonous appearance of the sand ; the fine particles of which 
 mingling with the haze, occasioned by the heavy surf, render the coast 
 very indistinct. 
 
 At a short distance to the westward of Porto Causado a cliff, from 90 to 
 100 feet in height, again commences and continues for 17 miles. This 
 cliff is of dark sand-stone, and the bottom, being also of dark sand, gives a 
 
 Q
 
 114 
 
 green appearance to the water. A flat desert extends inland as far as the 
 eye can reach. There is no beach, the sea breaking against the cliffs, on 
 which it appears to be encroaching. Where the cliffs terminate the land 
 becomes broken into sand-hills, partly covered with bushes, and the coast 
 trends in a true direction 80 W. to Cape Juby, 15 or 16 miles. 
 
 CAPE JUBY is a low sandy point ; near its extremity is a hummock 
 covered with bushes, appearing like an islet. Rocks extend from the cape 
 to one-third of a mile. Here the coast changes abruptly to S. W. (true), 
 and form some coves, off the points of which are scattered rocks. From 
 Cape Non to Cape Juby, the bank of soundings extends to an equal dis- 
 tance, and the depth decreases very gradually to the shore. 
 
 CURRENTS. From Cape Spartel, along the coast, to Arzilla, and also 
 to the distance of 7 or 8 miles from the shore, a regular tide was expe- 
 rienced, running parallel to the coast ; but its strength was rather greater 
 to the northward than to the southward. In this distance, at 15 miles 
 from land, no tide or current was perceptible. From Arzilla, southerly, a 
 tide was still experienced, gradually diminishing in strength, till its direc- 
 tion could not be ascertained. From the parallel of 34 30' N. to the 
 distance of 20 miles in the offing, a steady southerly set was first experi- 
 enced. This current, in the offing, continues invariably to follow the 
 direction of the land ; its velocity increasing or diminishing from the rate 
 of four-tenths to one mile an hour, according to the strength or continuance 
 of the north-easterly winds. 
 
 From Mogodore to Cape Boiador the current continues invariably to 
 run in the direction of the coast. Its greatest strength is usually at the 
 distance of from 3 to 6 miles from the land, gradually decreasing on re- 
 ceding from it. Its average rate, between 31 4 to 28 N., is from one-half 
 to three-quarters of a mile in the hour. At Cape Juby, probably from its 
 stream being in some measure confined by the projecting cape, and perhaps 
 by the Canary islands,' (distant 58 miles) it increases its rate to one mile 
 and a quarter, but diminishes off Cape Boiador to one mile. It did not 
 appear that this current was influenced by any particular wind, but near 
 shore a tide was generally perceived. 
 
 CAPE BOIADOR has some rocks about it, but on its south side there 
 is anchorage in 4 or 5 fathoms, or further out, about a league distant, in 18 
 to 20 fathoms. There is no road of any consequence in all the intermediate 
 coast, between this cape and Vera Cruz. It is for the most part desert, 
 inhabited by various tribes of Arabs, who make captives of all who happen 
 to fall into their hands. Along this dangerous coast are numerous rocks, 
 even, or nearly so, with the surface of the water, over which the sea breaks 
 violently ; the current also sets with great rapidity towards the shore, so 
 that we regret to state, that vessels are but too often wrecked and en- 
 dangered, by getting driven too near the land, for the want of due calcula- 
 tion in this respect, which is so highly essential on this deceitful coast. 
 
 From Cape Boiador, the coast trends S. W. J- W. (S. 20 W.) about 21 
 leagues, to a very remarkable cliff, about 300 feet high, called the Penha 
 Grande. As its height considerably exceeds that of any spot in its vicinity, 
 it may serve as a good land-mark. It is flat and arid ; all its declivities 
 are precipices, from broken earth which has fallen down, the colour of 
 which is gray. The whole of this coast is perfectly clean, even to the beach. 
 From the Penha Grande, the coast trends S. S. W. W. (S. 6 W.) 8 leagues, 
 and includes a slender bay, called Garnet bay. It then forms a well-defined 
 elbow, and trends nearly S. W. by W. W. (S. W.) 29 leagues. The 
 whole of this beach is continually washed by an exceedingly heavy surf, 
 and there is no sign of vegetation on the whole coast.
 
 115 
 
 GARNET BAY, or Angra dos Ruivos, abounds with cod, bream, hake, and 
 various kinds of other fish. There is good anchorage in it, to the north- 
 ward, with fine sandy bottom. Two leagues to the southward of Garnet 
 bay, are seven small table hills, called the Seven Capes, which constitute 
 an excellent land-mark. From hence to the Rio Ouro, or Gold River, the 
 distance is 1 8 leagues : here there is good fishing and fresh water, but the 
 river itself is shallow and dangerous. No particular current was observed 
 off the Rio Ouro, which consequently does away with the supposition of a 
 river emptying itself by this opening. From the southern point of the Rio 
 Ouro, the coast trends nearly S. W. (S. S. TV.) The cliff continues to a 
 distance of 5 leagues, when white sandy downs succeed, of which the sum- 
 mits are mostly flat. At 1 league northward, (N. N. TV.) from the ex- 
 tremity of the cliffs, and at 3 miles from the coast, there is a bank, having 
 only 32 feet of water ; its direction is parallel to that of the coast, and it 
 i.s about 2 miles in length. Thirteen fathoms have been found on the edge 
 of this bank : to the northward of it, the bottom is sand and shells ; to the 
 southward, fine sand ; and on the bank itself, broken shells. 
 
 CINTRA BAY is distant about 4- leagues from the Rio Ouro, and is dis- 
 tinguished by a peaked sand-hill, of remarkable appearance. The bay is 
 shallow on the north, by a low projecting point, having a reef extending 
 from its southern extremity, distant from the south side of the bay, which 
 is also encumbered with a reef, about 6 miles ; there is also a rock, nearly 
 in mid-channel, over which the sea breaks in tempestuous weather. About 
 a mile within the entrance is a depth of 47 fathoms, sandy bottom ; but 
 between the mid-channel rocks and the reefs, on either side, are 9 and 10 
 fathoms. From Cintra bay the coast trends S. S. TV. i TV. (S. 10 TV.) 
 to a distance of 7 leagues ; the shore at first is low, but it gradually rises, 
 and becomes a continued down of white sand. In the interior are 4 or 5 
 sand-hills, called the Downs of Cintra, which serve as a mark for the coast, 
 and may be seen 4 or 5 leagues. The BAY OF ST. CYPRIAN is formed by 
 Cape Barbas on the west side, and a high cliff, having a flat top resem- 
 bling a fortification, forms the east point. The bay is open from N. E. to 
 TV. N. TV., and affords but little security from the prevailing winds. 
 
 From Cape Barbas the coast trends nearly TV. S. TV. (S. W.) 3 leagues. 
 It is formed almost by one uninterrupted cliff, about 80 feet high, at the 
 foot of which the sea breaks violently. At one mile from the beach there 
 are from 9 to 12 fathoms; and at two miles, as much as 17 fathoms, with 
 a bottom of muddy sand, or sand and broken shells. The coast then de- 
 clines into white sandy downs, studded here and there with cliffs. At 3 
 leagues from this it forms rather a remarkable little bay, with shore of 
 white sand. The mouth of this bay is barred, at about 3 miles from its 
 bottom, by a flat of banks and reefs, on which there is very little water. 
 These reefs form an islet, called Pedro, da Gall, and another small islet, 
 called Virginia. The first, which is rather higher on the northern than on 
 the southern side, is about half a mile in circumference ; the latter, or 
 southern one, is three times that size, and has some sandy patches. At one 
 mile westward from these islets may be found 1 8 fathoms of water, with 
 muddy sand. The depth increases to the southward, and the bottom be- 
 comes harder. From Pedra da Gall to Cape Blanco the distance is 29^ 
 leagues. The coast in this extent is nearly straight, and moderately high ; 
 it is one continued down, the whiteness of which becomes more vivid on 
 approaching to the southward. 
 
 CAPE BLANCO is a high white cape, of remarkable appearance. There is 
 a bay formed by it and another point, 4 miles to the northward, having a 
 beach of white sand interspersed with masses of the white cliffs, through
 
 116 
 
 one of which the sea has perforated a hole in the shape of an arch. In this 
 bay, as well as anywhere along the coast, as far as Cape Corveiro, there is 
 good anchorage in 10 to 12 fathoms. There is a bay on the east side of 
 the promontory, named Greyhound bay, in which, as well as within 10 
 miles round Cape Blanco, the currents are subjected to regular tides, the 
 flood setting E. N. E., and the ebb the contrary, its greatest velocity run- 
 ning 1 to 2 miles an hour. 
 
 Captain Belcher says, " The tides about Cape Blanco are irregular, and 
 much influenced by the land near which they run. High water, at full and 
 change, may be looked for about noon ; the greatest rise, under every ad- 
 vantage of springs and winds, does not exceed 6 feet. Southward of the 
 parallel of the cape, the indraught has a velocity of 2.6 miles, and the off- 
 set or ebb the same. Eastward of the meridian of the cape, the tide bends 
 northerly ; and at three miles chord, its velocity appears from S. W. to 
 N. E. about 2^, following the circular course into Greyhound bay. North 
 of the parallel of the cape, the ebb sets north, and flood south ; and, close 
 in shore, the tide is considerably weaker than at 3 miles, where its greatest 
 influence may be expected." 
 
 THE BANK OF ARGUIN. Twelve miles S. by W. from Cape Blanco, is 
 the formidable bank of Arguin, extending as far south as Cape Myrick, 
 where it is met by another small bank, and between which there is a pas- 
 sage nearly 5 miles wide, with 4 fathoms, leading into the bay and river 
 St. John. This bank is dangerous, and ought carefully to be avoided by 
 vessels making Cape Blanco, bound to the southward. On its north end 
 there is a ledge of rocks, forming the entrance to Greyhound bay, on the 
 east side. On the western end of the bank are only 3 fathoms, whereas 
 close outside are 20 fathoms ; in coasting along, therefore, it will be prudent 
 not to approach nearer than 30 to 35 fathoms, as far as Cape Myrick. 
 
 CAPE MYRICK is a low sandy point, on which there is a small down, 
 and should not be approached nearer than 2 or 3 leagues. The coast to the 
 southward of the cape is low, and represents a chain of small regular downs 
 of white sand, interspersed with small bushes, forming an indent of the 
 coast named Tanit bay. The coast then trends to the S., to some remark- 
 able downs, called the Angel hillocks, which serve as a good land-mark, 
 being nearly 100 feet high, and will be found of much service in avoiding 
 the Angel bank, a shoal, extending about one league from the shore, 
 abreast of the northern hillock ; indeed, no part of the coast hereabout 
 ought to be approached at a less distance than 5 miles, nor in less depth 
 than 6 or 7 fathoms. 
 
 PORTENDIC is distant about 4 leagues to the southward of the Angel 
 hillocks, on an elevated spot, the beach being distinguished by two palm 
 trees, which served as a good mark for the place, scarcely a vestige of 
 which now remains. From the two palm trees, the coast trends nearly 
 S. S. W. (South) then to S. W. (S. S. W.) It is straight and low, inter- 
 rupted with small bushes, and presents a continued sameness. In an ex- 
 tent of 35 leagues, there are only two downs of red sand, covered with 
 brushwood, and these are only discernible at about two miles from the 
 beach. 
 
 RIVER SENEGAL. THE RIVER SENEGAL enters the Atlantic by 
 two embouchures, between 15 50' and 16 30' N. latitude. It is the 
 largest river in Senegambia, and drains nearly half the surface of that 
 country. The eastern and most mountainous parts of Senegambia, those 
 which lie between latitude 10 and 15 N., and between longitude 7 and 
 J 2 VV., are traversed by numerous rivers, which, by their union, form the 
 Senegal. The largest of these branches are the Ba Woolima and the
 
 117 
 
 Ba Fing. The last-mentioned river is justly considered the principal 
 branch, as it traverses a much greater extent of country than the other 
 rivers before it joins them. It rises, according to the statement of Mollien, 
 in latitude 10 30' N., and longitude 10 45' W., in the mountain range, 
 which encloses the elevated table-land of Foota Jallon on the south, and 
 divides the waters which fall into the Ba Fing from those which join the 
 Kabba, one of the largest rivers of Sierra Leone. The course of the Ba 
 Fing, to its junction with the Woolima, exceeds 400 miles. The other 
 great branch of the Senegal, the BA WOOLIMA, rises above 350 miles from 
 the source of the Ba Fing, to the N. E. at the eastern extremity of the 
 mountain range, which separates Senegambia from Soodan, and at no great 
 distance from the banks of the Joliba, or Quorra, near 13 N. latitude, and 
 6 40' W. longitude. Its course is first to the N. W., and then nearly 
 West, at a short distance from the mountains, until it joins the Ba Fing, 
 after having run more than 300 miles. From the south it is joined by the 
 Kokorro, which exceeds 200 miles in length. The union of the Ba Fing 
 with the Ba Woolima takes place near latitude 14 10' N., and longitude 
 10 30' W., and from this place the river is called Senegal. About 15 
 miles below the union of its branches, the Senegal contains a cataract, 
 called the Feloo falls, which, according to the statement of Golberry, is 
 80 feet high. In this part the river runs N. W., but it soon turns to the 
 West; and, at the distance of about 100 miles below Feloo falls, it is 
 joined from the south by the Ba Faleme, which flows more than 100 miles, 
 and is navigable for a considerable distance from its mouth, during the 
 rainy season. 
 
 Between the river and the Atlantic there is a strip of low land, nerely 
 level and covered with sand ; it is called the Point of Barbary, and gra- 
 dually diminishes in width, so that opposite the island and town of St. 
 Louis it is less than 300 yards across. About 5 miles further south, it 
 terminates at the mouth of the river. The tract of land enclosed by the 
 Senegal and Saguerai, consists of many islands, two of which are of con- 
 siderable extent, and separated from one another, by an arm which branches 
 off from the Saguerai, and joins the Senegal. The northern island is called 
 Bequio, and the southern, Bifeche. These islands are entirely covered 
 with wood, and in the wet season a great portion of them is laid under 
 water. The course of the Senegal, as far as it runs southward, is nearly 
 40 miles long ; but its waters in few places run in one channel, the middle 
 of the river being occupied by a string of islands, some of which are several 
 miles in length, and in some places more than half a mile in width. Even 
 after its junction with the Saguerai, the eastern banks continue to be 
 skirted by islands. The greatest depth of the river is generally found to 
 be west of the islands. Its currents are very rapid, and contain a, large 
 quantity of sand, which, when brought to the sea, meets the swell of the 
 ocean, and is thrown back towards the land. Thus a bar has been formed 
 across the mouth of the river, on which there is very little water, except at 
 one place, where the currents have forced a passage through the sands : 
 this is called the Pass of the Bar ; it is generally about 250 yards wide, 
 and 15 feet deep, but these dimensions are subject to change. Only vessels 
 drawing 1 2 feet water can pass through this entrance of the river, as the 
 surplus is necessary for the pitching of the vessels, which is produced by 
 the strong swell of the sea. The mouth of the river was formerly two 
 miles further south than it is at present. In 1812, an unusually extensive 
 inundation opened the present mouth, through the narrow sands of the 
 Point of Barbary, and the old mouth was almost entirely filled up with 
 sand.
 
 118 
 
 As a navigable river the Senegal is far inferior to the Gambia ; for the 
 Gambia has no such obstacles as its month, and the Senegal is much inferior 
 to it in depth, and so full of shoals, that it cannot be navigated by large river 
 barges in the dry season. Gray states that at the end of the dry season it is 
 only 18 inches deep near Bakel, or Baquelle, the farthest of the French set- 
 tlements. The ascent of the Senegal is only practicable in the wet season, and 
 even then the voyage is slow and tedious, partly on account of the rapidity 
 of the current, and partly because of the numerous windings. It may in- 
 deed be ascended to a greater distance than the Gambia, to the foot of the 
 Feloo Falls, which are more than 500 miles from its mouth ; but in general 
 it is only navigated to the mouth of the Faleme. The river begins to rise 
 some weeks after the rains have set in, generally in the first week of June ; 
 sometimes it attains the height of 40 feet above its lowest level at Bakel, 
 but lower down it does not rise so high. It attains its highest level in the 
 month of August, and begins to fall about the middle of September. In 
 November, or the beginning of December, it again enters its bed. The inun- 
 dations produced by the rise, appear to be most extensive along the lower 
 part of its course, especially when the islands of Billos and Morfil occur. 
 
 CAPE VERD. Between the mouth of the Senegal and that of the Gambia, 
 and nearly at equal distances from each, lies Cape Verd, a wide projecting 
 promontory. Its western extremity is a mass of rocks, of moderate eleva- 
 tion and volcanic origin. In its character it greatly resembles the Cape Yerd 
 islands, which are nearly 500 miles from it, in the Atlantic Ocean. The 
 northern descent of this isolated mass is rather steep, and at its eastern ex- 
 tremity are two hills, rising about 600 feet above the sea : they are called 
 manelles, or paps, and serve as a beacon to mariners. The paps are discern- 
 ible, in fine weather, at a distance of 25 miles : it is almost unnecessary 
 to warn the mariner not to mistake for them two small hills of a similar 
 form, which lie 12 leagues to the eastward, as the direction of the land is 
 considered sufficient to discriminate. Between the river Senegal and Cape 
 Verd, is the bay of Yoff, which is too deep to afford anchorage, even close 
 to the shore ; vessels bound to the southward, should therefore keep well 
 to the westward to avoid the Almadies Rocks, off Cape Verd. The sea on 
 the Almadies breaks incessantly. Amongst the rocks are some smooth spots, 
 appearing like channels, fit for boats. The flat may be coasted at the dis- 
 tance of a mile, there being, on the west, 35 fathoms of water ; the bottom 
 is of broken shells. Hence, to the northward, in an extent of 3 miles, the 
 depth increases to 80 fathoms ; bottom of mud and sand. To the S. E. the 
 depth is not so much ; in running along these breakers and the coast, to a dis- 
 tance of two miles in that direction, which will extend to the meridian of 
 the paps, the depth varies from 25 to 30 fathoms ; the bottom sand and 
 shells, or sand and rock. The depth continues to decrease to the E. S. E. 
 
 About 3 leagues S. S. E. ^ E. (S. E ) from Almadies point, is Cape 
 Manoel, between which are three small islands, called the Magdalens, the 
 largest being perforated at its south end sufficiently wide for a boat to pass 
 through. Cape Manoel is high, covered with brush wood, and terminates 
 at the sea side in basaltic cliffs ; it forms the western point of the BAY OF 
 GOREE, Cape Naze forming the other extremity. At the distance of 2100 
 fathoms from Cape Manoel, E. f N. (N. 65 E.) lies the island Goree, and 
 a vessel intending to anchor must steer for it, and may approach on the 
 south side, within two musket shots. Goree island is merely a rock, about 
 400 fathoms in its greatest length, from N. E. to S. W., (N. by \V. to 
 S. by E.) and 167 fathoms in breadth. The southern part, which is about 
 500 feet above the level of the sea, is the highest, and like a round 
 mountain, may be seen at the distance of 5 or 6 leagues. The rest of the
 
 119 
 
 island is very low, and the north point is distinguished only by its batteries 
 and private buildings. The landing-place is on the N. E. side of the island, 
 between the point and the back of the mountain, to the southward, in a 
 small sandy bay. 
 
 The Roadstead is to the N. E. of the island. This roadstead, which is 
 sheltered from all winds from S. S. "W. to E. N. E., (by the North) is per- 
 fectly safe, during eight months of the year ; that is, from the first of 
 November to the first of July ; but during the rainy season, the squalls 
 from the S. E. are dangerous. The best anchorage for large vessels, in 
 either season, is at the distance of 800 fathoms from the landing-place, with 
 Cape Manoel bearing W. S. W. \ W. (S. 52 W.) a sail's breadth open of 
 the north point of the island. At this spot there is a bottom of thick 
 clayish mud, with a depth of 12| fathoms, and it is convenient to weigh 
 from, with the wind from any quarter. To fetch the anchorage from Cape 
 Verd, in the fine season, when the winds are from N. E. to N. W., it is 
 necessary to run close by Cape Manoel and the south point of Goree, 
 keeping by the wind on the larboard tack, and sounding until in 8 or 10 
 fathoms. When within a mile of the land, tack and beat up to the 
 anchorage. 
 
 The whole coast, from Cape Manoel to Cape Naze, a vessel may run 
 along at a distance of two miles. There is only one bank in this space, the 
 least water on which is 2| fathoms. In the neighbourhood of Cape Naze 
 are several Negro villages ; the most considerable of these is named Rufisk, 
 having a roadstead, where, in fine weather, you may lie in 6 or 7 fathoms ; 
 some rocks, however, lie off this place, but these may be avoided by 
 keeping half a mile from the shore. There are some rocks, westward of 
 Rufisk, stretching about a gun-shot into the sea, which may be avoided 
 by keeping half a mile from the shore. To the West and W. N. W. of 
 Cape Naze is good anchorage, in 4 and 5 fathoms, fine sand ; but to the 
 South and S. W. of the cape, the bottom generally is not good. In the 
 night-time, you must proceed in 17 fathoms, having sometimes recourse to 
 the lead ; the land, even in the night, will direct you sufficiently to avoid 
 the rocks. In the season of the tornadoes, the road of Rufisk is not good ; 
 but in the summer, you may safely lie there in 6 or 7 fathoms, close to the 
 shore, if agreeable. 
 
 About 85 miles S. E. of the Red cape, which lies to the southward of 
 Rufisk, is Cape Naze ; and 4^ leagues from the latter, is the French factory 
 of Portudal, having a roadstead only fit for small vessels, and that but in- 
 different. Five leagues from Portudal is Cape Serene, between which, 
 lying in a parallel direction with the coast, distant about two leagues, is 
 the Amboroo lank, having but 1^ fathom on its southern extremity. This 
 danger must be carefully avoided. Its greatest depth is 3 fathoms, with 
 very hard sand. Between it and the land is a channel of 5 or 6 fathoms, 
 and close to its western side is 5 fathoms. 
 
 The River Joal is about 3 leagues S. by E. \ E. (E. S. E. E.) from 
 Cape Serene. Here stands a town, of the same name, on the north bank 
 of the river, from which a shoal, having but 2^ fathoms' water, projects 
 into the sea. The road of Joal is indifferent, and only fit for small vessels ; 
 the entrance of the river is 3 miles, having a depth of 3 fathoms in mid- 
 channel. From Palmarin point, the south point of entrance of the river 
 Joal, the coast trends South, (S. by E. | E.) 8 leagues, to the Birds' 
 islands, four small islands which lie on the Red bank, a sand that com- 
 mences at the river Salum, about 4 leagues from Palmarin point, and 
 stretches along the coast, projecting 4 miles into the sea, and having 4 
 fathoms' water close to its outer extremity.
 
 120 
 
 RIVER GAMBIA. The Bird islands, with Cape St. Mary, form the 
 entrance to the river Gambia, lying from each other N. by E. and S. by W. 
 4 leagues. Vessels bound to the river Gambia, on leaving Cape Verd, may 
 run in safely during the night, by not coming nearer than 9 or 10 fathoms ; 
 by which precaution, they will avoid the Amboroo bank, the shoals of 
 Joal, the Red bank, &c. In 1819, a flagstaff, with a union jack, was 
 erected on the easternmost Bird island, to denote the pilot's residence for 
 the river. From hence to the town of BATHURST, on the western shore, 
 the distance is 4 leagues. Cape St. Mary is low, appearing like a plain, 
 but rising towards the interior, having a few trees and one house upon it. 
 Between Banyan, or Bathurst point, and Barra point, to the N. E., the 
 river is only 2j miles, being the narrowest part of the mouth of the 
 Gambia. From Banyan point projects a dangerous rocky shelf, called St. 
 Mary's shoal, which extends 5 miles N. by W. W., (N. N. W. f W.,) 
 being even with the water on the ebb. A mile to the N. E. of this is the 
 Middle ground ; and three-quarters of a mile to the northward of the 
 latter is the African's knoll. These dangers are separated by deep water 
 of 4 to 6 fathoms, but they must all be left on the starboard side, by keep- 
 ing towards the eastern shore. 
 
 Vessels bound to the river Gambia should endeavour to make the lati- 
 tude (13 40') of Bird island, or 4 or 5 miles to the southward of it ; a due 
 east course, until in 5 fathoms, will then bring the flagstaff to bear N. N. E., 
 distant 2 miles, when you may anchor and engage a pilot ; or, if desirous 
 of proceeding up, keep the lead going ; the bottom on the south side of the 
 channel being hard, while that on the north and east sides consists of soft 
 mud. From the anchorage in 5 fathoms off Bird island, the course to 
 within the African's knoll, off the edge of the Red bunk, is S. E. (S. E. 
 by E. ^ E.) 5 miles, and from whence to the anchorage off Bathurst, 
 S. i W. (S. by E. i E.) 7 miles. 
 
 When advancing to the Gambia, from the northward, you ought not to ap- 
 proach the river nearer than in 7 or 6 fathoms, before Cape St. Mary comes 
 in sight. It may be adviseable for a stranger not to proceed further than 
 in 5 fathoms without a pilot, unless the vessel draws less than 12 feet of 
 water. Those leaving Goree, when bound to the Gambia, may steer about 
 S. by E., keeping their lead constantly going, and approaching the coast 
 no nearer than in 7 fathoms. When near the entrance of the Gambia, the 
 ground will generally be found an ooz-sand ; but, near the cape, sometimes 
 sand and sometimes red shells will be found. The ebb in the river runs 
 very strongly, nearly 8 hours, but the flood is not so strong. Spring-tides 
 are very rapid. 
 
 Having approached within one mile of Barra point, from which a small 
 spit stretches off to about a quarter of a mile, keep over for mid-channel, 
 between that point and Banyan, or Bathurst point. You have 8, 9, 10, 
 and 12 fathoms between the two points, and good anchorage in 9 fathoms 
 of water, muddy ground, with Barra point bearing N. E. by N., and 
 Banyan point N. W. The tide of flood sets on Barra point, and the ebb 
 directly on the middle ; be therefore very cautious, during calms, on an 
 ebb tide. 
 
 From Barra point to Dog island point, on the same side of the river, 
 the bearing and distance are South (S. by E. ^ E.) 8 miles ; the coast be- 
 tween forms a deep and shoal bay, and the flats extend from it, into the 
 middle of the river. From Dog island point and reef, the coast takes a 
 sudden turn to the S. E. and E. S. E. and it trends from Dog island point 
 to Lemaine or Lemon point, S. E. f E. (E. S. E. E.) two leagues. On 
 this shore, at half a league more eastward, is the French settlement at
 
 121 
 
 Albreda, and at half a mile further is the English one, named Jillifree. 
 One mile S. E. from Jillifree, on an islet in the river, is Fort James. 
 
 In sailing up to Fort James, which is 17 miles above Bathurst, you 
 steer in mid-channel two leagues, with the town of Bathurst N. f W. 
 (X. N. W. W.). This leads to a fair offing from Dog Island point. 
 The course hence, in the fairway, to abreast of Lemaine point, is S. E. 5 E. 
 (E. S. E.) 61 miles; and thence to Fort James E. S. E. ^ E. (East) 3 
 miles. In order to avoid the shelf which extends from the Banyan, or 
 western shore, approach no nearer to that shore, in turning, than in 5 
 fathoms ; nor nearer the Barra side, when above Dog Island point, than in 
 4 fathoms ; but if nearer that point, than in 6 fathoms. Lemaine point 
 should have a berth of a mile, as some shoals stretch from it. You may 
 haul in and anchor before Albreda in 4 fathoms, half a mile from it, the 
 ground shoaling gradually to within a cable's length of the shore. After 
 giving Lemaine point a berth, do not haul for the Barra shore till you are 
 abreast of Albreda, for the flat continues to the eastward of that point to a 
 considerable distance. 
 
 In 1826, Captain Owen, R. N., made an extensive survey of the river 
 Gambia, from whence it appears that 3 miles above Fort James it is 2^ 
 miles in breadth, it then takes a north-easterly direction, 10 miles to 
 Moota point, on the south shore, leaving a creek, called Jukarda, on the 
 north side, and has a depth, in mid-channel, of 4|, 5, 6, and 7 fathoms. 
 A line of coast, one mile in breadth, and 40 miles in length, terminating 
 at Jukarda creek, was ceded to the British government, by the native 
 chiefs, in 1826, the small settlements of Albreda alone excepted. From 
 Jukarda creek the river pursues an easterly course, alternately shoaling 
 and increasing in depth to a considerable distance. Captain Owen's 
 survey comprehends a distance of 190 miles from the entrance of the 
 river, and exhibits the depths of water as far as Pisanca, where, in the 
 dry season, the tide rises 3 feet : at Pisanca there remains the ruins of 
 a factory. 
 
 About 14 miles S. W. by W., from the pitch of the cape of St. Mary, are 
 the Tongui rocks and shoal, which run out about a league from the Bald 
 cape ; from thence to Cape Roxo it is 20 leagues, which you may run in 
 safety in the dark, keeping in 6 or 7 fathoms to avoid the bank that 
 extends one league from the shore. There are four rivers before you 
 reach Cape Roxo, the southernmost of which, Casamanza, is the only one 
 accessible, having 2 or 3 fathoms at the entrance, with rocks on each side ; 
 the land about the cape is low, with a sandy beach, near which are several 
 tufts of a remarkably red colour. From Cape Roxo the coast trends 
 E. S. E to the river Cacheo, the navigation of which is much impeded by 
 the numerous shoals, called the Cacheo banks, and Falulo breakers ; and 
 here commence the various shoals, channels, and islands of the Bissagos 
 Archipelago. 
 
 BISSAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. The JEBA CHANNEL is formed on 
 the north side by the main, which is intersected by the several rivers of 
 Cacheo, Jatt, Bassi, and Bissao, thus dividing it into islands, of all which 
 the land is low. Near the S. W. end of Jatt, S. S. E. (S. E. i S.) of Cape 
 Roxo, is a small conspicuous island, named Cayo, being bold-to, and ap- 
 pearing, on an easterly bearing, like three islands, perceived to be 
 connected by a flat on a nearer approach ; it is well wooded, and may, in 
 clear weather, be seen 4 or 5 leagues, consequently serving as a useful 
 land-mark. At 6 leagues more to the eastward (E. S. E.) off the S. E. 
 end of Jatt are several islets, called the Ane&ra-g, which distinguish the 
 western side of a river of the same name. The extremity or N. W. part 
 
 R
 
 122 
 
 of the Bissagos shoals is composed of hard sand. From this extremity the 
 bank and isles extend to the southward and south-eastward 23 leagues, 
 towards the eastern channel of the Rio Grande; and the flat, which is 
 from 12 to 6 leagues in breadth, is interspersed with banks above and 
 under water, and islands, either dry or marshy, the detail of which is 
 very little known. 
 
 Vessels bound for the Jeba, or Bissao channel, and having made Cape 
 Roxo towards the evening, should come to anchor, bringing the cape to 
 bear north. The outer part of the Falulo breakers bears from hence 
 S. by E. (S. S. E. ^ E.) distant 17| miles, lying to the south-westward of 
 Cacheo river, and extend in an E. S. E. and W. N. W. direction, having 
 6- to 4 fathoms close to them. Your course, 2 leagues to the westward of 
 Cape Roxo, is S. W. by W. % W. (S. W.) for 12 miles, then haul up on 
 the larboard tack, as at this distance the depth increases ; afterwards steer 
 S. W. (S. by E.) until you reach the latitude of about 11 45' or 11 47', 
 in a depth at 6^ fathoms, muddy ground. Here you enter the Jeba chan- 
 nel, and having run E. S. E. ^ E. (East) 12 leagues, you reach the south 
 end of Cayo, the trees on which, as we have stated, may be seen a con- 
 siderable distance. 
 
 The space to the northward of this track is replete with banks, which 
 extend to the main shore, but Falulo are the only ones which break con- 
 stantly. The depth of water, in the latter course, will be found regular 
 from 7 to 9 fathoms, muddy bottom ; it may be further observed that, in 
 entering the great channel, it will be more advisable to keep towards the 
 northern banks than those on the south side, as the latter are close-to, 
 whereas, by a constant use of the lead, you will have due notice of ap- 
 proaching the former. 
 
 THE GREAT CHANNEL, ON THE MERIDIAN OF THE ISLET CAYO, is about 
 
 4 leagues in breadth, which is again divided into three channels, by means 
 of two banks of shallow water ; the northernmost of these is named the 
 Bank of Cayo, having a depth of only 10 feet on it, and lying 4 miles to 
 the southward of the islet of that name : it is rather narrow from north 
 to south, but its length from east to west is about 5 miles. The best of 
 the three channels is to the northward of this bank, in which are from 7 
 to 9 fathoms. Two miles to the southward of the Cayo bank lies the 
 Bank of Carasche, being divided by a depth of 9 fathoms : it lies in a 
 parallel direction with the former, and extends about the same distance, 
 namely, 5 miles in an east and west direction. Carasche bank breaks 
 continually, part of which is dry at low water ; it is distant about 4 miles 
 to the northward of an island of the same name, but the channel between 
 is of an irregular depth, and the bottom bad. Carasche island forms the 
 south side of the Great channel. 
 
 Having arrived to the eastward of the banks above-mentioned, and 
 intending to proceed for the settlement of Bissao, steer S. E. S. (S. 60 E.) 
 
 5 leagues along the island of Jatt to its S. E. point, having some trees upon 
 it, and appearing somewhat higher than the land thereabout ; from hence 
 steer E. S. E. (E. 5 S.) 6 leagues, passing successively the Ancoras 
 islets, the channel between Jatt and Bassi, and the south part of the last 
 island, on one side ; while, on the other, you will cross a large bay, formed 
 by the islands Carasche and Cerballe : leave the Parroquet islands on 
 your starboard hand, and finally reach within a league of the west 
 side of Bissao island. From the S. W. end of the latter to Bonn (here-- 
 after described) the course is E. | N. (E. 20 N.) running parallel 
 with the island of Bissao, and passing several shoal patches of 4 and 
 4 fathoms.
 
 123 
 
 Bonn, or Bourbon, is an islet to the southward of the town of Bissao ; 
 two miles above it is another, called King's isles, and 7 miles from it, on 
 the south side of the river, is Areas, an island on the eastern side of the 
 channel to Rio Grande, and is the distinguishing mark for it. 
 
 In proceeding towards Bonn, St. Martin's point of Bissao, 3| miles 
 "W. \ S. (W. S. W.) from the former, must be avoided, by giving it a 
 berth of a mile and a half; being within 3 miles of Bonn, bring it to bear 
 N. N. E. <| E. and steer directly towards it, passing about 200 fathoms to 
 the eastward : from hence proceed between King's island and the fort, 
 keeping nearer the latter, and anchor in 6 to 8 fathoms, soft muddy 
 bottom. The ROAD OP BISSAO lies in the principal stream of the river 
 Jeba, between the eastern side of the island and King's island opposite, 
 and is perfectly safe and well sheltered. The fort stands 100 fathoms 
 from the beach, about 300 paces to the southward of which is the water- 
 ing place ; the water, though reckoned wholesome, is not agreeable to the 
 taste, and, previous to its being drank, should be acidulated, or purified 
 by red-hot shot. 
 
 The WINDS in the Great channel of the Bissagos nearly follow the 
 direction of the land, and vary their course according to that of the 
 channel. In the Great channel they vary from west to north ; at the 
 anchorage of Bissao they commonly blow from the S. W., except in the 
 morning, when they are from the northward. In the rainy season, which 
 commences in June and continues about 5 months, they blow from the 
 S. E., with the tornados, the same as on the coast, and then, passing 
 round by the south, return to the northward. 
 
 ANCHORAGE. A vessel may anchor anywhere in the Great channel, the 
 bottom being of soft mud and excellent holding ground, with the exception 
 of one place at 2| miles to the southward of the isle Jatt ; here the depth 
 is from 20 to 22 fathoms, and the bottom of coarse gravel. In all other 
 parts of the channel the depth varies from 13 to 6 fathoms, without any 
 sudden alteration. 
 
 TIDES. The usual prevailing currents on the coast, to the northward of 
 Cape Roxo, are found to be completely changed on passing this cape. 
 They have here no longer one only direction ; and, in all the channels of 
 the Bissagos, are superseded by tides, which are more or less regular. 
 Those in the Jeba, or Great channel are perfectly so. Westward of the 
 isle Cayo the flood sets S. E., and the ebb N. W., each six hours, or 
 nearly so, with the exception that the current gradually assumes these 
 directions, requiring nearly an hour from the change, before it is com- 
 pletely settled in its course. The flood generally sets to the northward, and 
 the ebb to the southward. The greatest difference which has been observed 
 between the high and low water marks is 8 feet ; and, at the equinoctial 
 full moon, the rate of the flood and ebb is about one mile and two-fifths an 
 hour ; at other times it never exceeds one mile. At the entrance of the 
 Great channel, which is 6 leagues to the westward, and on the parallel of 
 the island of Cayo it is high water, at full and change, at 9 h. 15 m. 
 
 From the meridian of Cayo, and as far as that of the isle of Bonn, the 
 stream follows the direction of the channel ; and here the tides are regular. 
 It is not known that the length of the ebb exceeds that of the flood. The 
 greatest rate of either never exceeds 2^ miles per hour, in spring tides ; 
 and the rise is found to be 8 feet, as outside the channel. On the meridian 
 of Cayo it is high water, at full and change, at 1 1 h. Before Bissao the 
 rate of the highest tides never exceeds 2.6 miles per hour ; and the mean 
 rise is 7| feet. It is high water, at full and change, at the anchorage of 
 Bissao, at 12 h. 30 m.
 
 J21 
 
 Besides the Senegal and Gambia, which are the largest rivers of Sene- 
 gambia, the country south of the Gambia is drained by two rivers, which 
 are navigated to a considerable distance from their mouth ; these are the 
 Rio Grande and the Nunez, or Kakoondee. 
 
 The Rio GRANDE is stated to originate on the western declivity of a 
 range of mountains, the waters from the eastern slope of which form the 
 most remote branch of the Gambia, near 10 N. lat., and 11 W. long. 
 As far as its course lies, within the mountain region, it is joined by 
 numerous tributaries, among which, however, the Coomba only is a 
 considerable stream, and its course is rapid. Before it leaves the moun- 
 tain region it is said to form a cataract, near 13 20' W. long., and from 
 this point downwards the river is navigable for river-boats. At a distance, 
 exceeding 100 miles from the sea, the river divides into several branches. 
 That branch which continues to flow in a western direction is commonly 
 called, on our maps, Rio Grande, but the native name is Butolah. Small 
 vessels may ascend it as far as Bolola, a short distance below the bifurcation. 
 Its mouth is opposite to Bulama island, which belongs to the group of the 
 Bissagos, or Bijooga islands. That arm which runs northward, from the 
 point where the bifurcation takes place, is called Jeba river. Having con- 
 tinued in that direction about 50 miles it turns westward, and divides 
 again at the Portugese settlement of the same name. This branch is 
 navigable, for small vessels, from Jeba to the sea, and for large vessels 
 from a point about 5 miles above Bissao. The most northern arm, which 
 is called the Cacheo river, is navigable, for vessels drawing not more than 
 10 feet water, to the settlements of Cacheo; and for smaller ones much 
 farther. As the country between these arms is exceedingly low, and its 
 soil mostly consists of alluvium, which is inundated for some months in the 
 year, there is said to be a great number of minor channels, by which the 
 principal branches of the rivers are united. 
 
 The EASTERN CHANNEL, or that of Rio GRANDE, branches into the Jeba 
 channel, to the westward of Areas island ; its west side is formed by a flat 
 extending to the eastward of the Parroquet and Galinha islands, and the 
 bank which joins these to the Hog islands and that of Kanyabac ; its 
 eastern bank is formed by the islands of Areas and Bulama, with the 
 banks that connect them. Being intersected by the mouth of the Rio Grande, 
 it again commences at Bossessame, and forms a chain of reefs as far as 
 the island Yombere : the channel is here divided into two branches by a 
 bank, 4 leagues in extent from north to south, on which are several islets 
 and breakers, with Cavalho and Honey islands, and Pullam, which lies to 
 the southward of the latter. The western or main channel is bounded, 
 on the west side, by part of Orango island, and chain of reefs running 
 S. S. W. from it. 
 
 Large vessels proceeding for the channel of Rio Grande, from the north- 
 ward, must observe that a bar shelters the S. W. part of Areas isle, termi- 
 nating at the distance of 4 miles, by a rocky bank, forming part of the 
 bar, over which are only 3 fathoms at low water. In order that this may 
 be avoided, bring the island to bear E. ^ Nl, (E. N. E.) and steer so as to 
 keep the western point of Bulama island South, (S. 17 E.) until you reach 
 within two miles of it ; from hence, if you intend going to the southward, 
 keep towards the middle of the strait, formed by Bulama and Galinha 
 islands. Vessels bound to the northward, and having brought Areas 
 E. N., should steer N. by E. ^ E. (North) until she has passed the 
 parallel in which it lies. The west end of Bulama,, or Boolam, may be 
 approached within a mile ; the course from hence is S. by E. f E. (S. 36 E.) 
 3 leagues, crossing the mouth of the Rio Grande, which separates Bulama
 
 125 
 
 from Bossessame, and keeping at the distance of a mile from the half-tide 
 banks to the S. E. of Galinha. The depths in this track vary from 30 to 
 1 and 8 fathoms ; bottom chiefly of s,a.nd and gravel. 
 
 BULAMA is well wooded and of moderate height ; it has some well- 
 sheltered roadsteads, affording safe anchorage ; that on the S. "W. side of 
 the island has a depth of 20 fathoms, and although the tide rises 12 to 15 
 feet, the sea is generally smooth, and the landing easy. Here fresh water 
 may be procured abundantly. 
 
 Two miles to the westward of Bossessame, steering south 3 leagues, will 
 carry you to Kanyabac island, in a depth of 8 to" 20 fathoms, red sand and 
 shells. To the westward of this track are the Hog islands, four in number ; 
 the northernmost, Corett, appearing remarkable, being covered with large 
 trees. The eastern side of Kanyabac may safely be approached within a 
 mile, in 6 to 10 fathoms. The S. E. point of the island, called Barel, is 
 high and bold, to the westward of which is a small cove called Manel, 
 where the bottom is good, but the depth shallow. A course S. W. f S. 
 (S. 30 W.) 13 miles, will take you two miles of the western side of a very 
 extensive bank, which lies to the northward of Cavalho island, in 10 to 20 
 fathoms. Continuing the same course, a similar distance, you will reach 
 the eastern shore of Orango island ; and also breakers, which stretch more 
 than two leagues off to the S. W. of it. Any course from hence, between 
 S. S. E. and S. W. by W. (S. E. S. and S. W. ^ S.) will lead clear of all 
 danger, and out to sea. 
 
 KANYABAC is of moderate elevation, and higher towards the south than 
 the north end. Orango is the most considerable of the Bissagos. Its 
 eastern part is not very high ; its S. E. point is called Cape Cameleon, and 
 is remarkable from several spots of yellow sand, which form a striking con- 
 trast to the brown appearance of the coast. Pullam island derives its 
 name from the large trees with which it is covered. It is not a mile in ex- 
 tent in any direction, and is little above the level of the sea ; its shores are 
 rocky, and difficult to land on, from the heavy surf breaking on them. It 
 is bounded from S. W. to E. S. E. by flats, which extend 4 miles, and con- 
 stantly dangerous for large vessels to approach near it. 
 
 H. M. S. Leven arrived on the 21st of April, 1821, off the Bijooga 
 islands, and anchored between Yomber and Orango ; upon the latter many 
 natives and herds of cattle were seen. On the following day, the Leven 
 grounded upon the shoal, at half a mile from the east shore of the isle Ba- 
 wack, between Kanyabac and Orango, where she lay in a perilous situation 
 until the next tide, when she happily got off. The idea we had been led 
 to form of these islands was extremely erroneous ; as, instead of being low 
 and marshy, with scarcely a channel for boats between their muddy shores, 
 we found them a cluster of the most beautiful, fertile, and inviting islands, 
 with moderately high and bold shores, separated by deep water, and con- 
 taining many fine harbours ; most of them being inhabited, and each vil- 
 lage having its independent ruler. According to the customs of these 
 people, every vessel stranded upon their shores is forfeited to the chiefs or 
 people; in consequence of which, they considered that they had a just claim 
 to the Leven, when she lay grounded near Bawack. 
 
 Extract from the Nautical Magazine, page 207, vol. 2. " The principal 
 feature in the character of the Bijooga Indians is avarice, which can only 
 be gratified by the possession of whatever they see. By their importunate 
 demands, and the manner in which they received anything given to them, 
 they seem to believe that the visits of strangers are only for the purpose 
 of making them presents. They received a few baubles from us with 
 some expression of pleasure in their features, but thought of no return,
 
 126 
 
 and seemed to consider the presents as a matter of course. During the last 
 forty years they do not appear to have advanced one step in civilization. 
 Their treatment of strangers, and the difficulty of access to their islands, 
 will long perpetuate their barbarous condition. An inordinate spirit of re- 
 venge and retaliation is the spring of all their actions, and kindles frequent 
 animosities. The slightest provocation occasions dispute ; the least unin- 
 tentional wrong must be redressed. The nobler attributes of our nature 
 are unknown to them, and their minds are alienated from all moral im- 
 provement. Pretexts for indulging this passion will never be wanting; 
 the restless and inflammable tempers of the Bijoogas will always lead them 
 to detect or occasion some cause of offence, and the objects of their revenge 
 will be watched and pursued, till the most rigorous atonement shall have 
 been made. 
 
 " In justice to them, however, it must be observed, that there is too 
 much reason to believe that they have not always been treated fairly by 
 the few white people with whom they have had intercourse ; and there is 
 little doubt that their history would discover much that might be adduced 
 in extenuation of their singular manners. It is said that the first white 
 man who visited Kanyabac imposed on the natives ; a circumstance which 
 may account for their behaviour to strangers. The result is, that they are 
 insincere and unjust in their communications, one which often obtains 
 among people of more pretensions to civilization." 
 
 The WINDS in the eastern channel are generally light in the fine season, 
 particularly in the morning and evening. They set in gradually in the 
 afternoon, and almost blow constantly from S. S. "W. round by West, to 
 N. N. W. ; they remain but a short time at any intermediate point, and 
 soon follow the direction of the land, which trends nearly N. by E. and S. 
 by W. During the rainy season, easterly winds are prevalent, to which 
 period winds from this quarter are entirely limited. 
 
 The TIDES are as regular in the eastern as in the Jeba or Great channel. 
 The length of the ebb is equal to that of the flood ; the former sets to the 
 northward, the latter to the southward ; but the different points of the 
 channel, and the irregularities of the bottom, affect those directions. The 
 mean rise of the tide is from 12 to 15 feet. The strength of the stream 
 varies according to the breadth and depth of the channel, being greater 
 where it is confined than in the wider parts ; it is, consequently, more con- 
 siderable in the strait of Bulama, and the Honey Island channel, than in 
 any other part. Nevertheless, it seldom exceeds 2^ miles per hour, but is 
 frequently as much as two, at two miles to the westward of Pullam island. 
 It is high water, at full and change, at 10 h. 15 m. 
 
 The coast, to the south-eastward of the Rio Grande, is shoal and 
 dangerous to some extent from the land. Eight leagues S. E. f S. (S. E. f E.) 
 from Pullam island, is the rocky bank of Alcatras, on which is a small islet 
 50 feet high, surrounded by breakers, with reefs two miles in extent, both 
 from the N. W. and S. E. Between Alcatras and the river Nunez there 
 is another dangerous reef, named by Captain Owen, in 1826, the Conflict 
 reef, the western side of which is 14 miles, to the S. E. from the Alcatras, 
 and its breadth each way is between 3 and 4 miles. Two other rocky banks 
 lie within a distance of 8 miles to the southward, having a de|)th of 12 to 
 16 fathoms, near the most southern extremity, distant alout 30 leagues 
 W. S. W. from the entrance of the river Nunez. 
 
 The RIVER NUNEZ, or, as it is called by the natives, Kakoondie, is much 
 inferior in size to those previously mentioned. Its whole course probably 
 does not exceed 250 miles, while the Rio Grande runs more than 400 ; but 
 it offers a safe navigation to a great distance from the sea. It rises in that
 
 127 
 
 chain of hills which separates Senegambia from Sierra Leone, near 13 W. 
 longitude, and its general direction, foi about two-thirds of its course, is to 
 the west, and the remainder to the west of south. In the upper part of 
 its course it is full of rapids and falls. It becomes navigable, for vessels of 
 moderate size, above the settlement of Debucko or Rebucko, and up to this 
 place the tide ascends. From this place downward, the general depth of 
 the river may be stated at 2| to 3 fathoms at low water, with a rise and fall 
 of about 12 feet. The river has three channels at its mouth, two of which 
 are navigated by vessels. The northern admits only vessels drawing less 
 than 12 feet, but the southern may be entered by large ships. They are 
 separated from one another by an island called Sandy island. The low 
 country, near its mouth, is uninhabited for want of fresh water, and the 
 first settlement, Walkeria, occurs at the distance of 70 miles from the sea, 
 measured along the course of the river. 
 
 Vessels bound to the Nunez should make the land in 10 31' N., or, if 
 coming from the southward, should, at least, not advance into less than 7 
 fathoms, till in that latitude. They will then approach the river, steering 
 E. j S. (N. 75 E.) through regular soundings ; and it is necessary to re- 
 member, chiefly, that with a flood tide, there is a dangerous rocky flat on 
 the starboard beam, going in ; while, on the other hand, a vessel may play 
 with the edge of the breakers on the point of Sandy island on the larboard 
 side. The constant warning, also, " Keep in mud," which is familiar in all 
 channels along this coast, should be here especially kept in mind. 
 
 The following are the directions given for it by Lieutenant Bold : 
 " When Cove point (the N. W. side of the entrance) bears about N. W., 
 and the south point on its opposite bank East, you will be in 7 or 8 
 fathoms, in a fair way for the river. Due south of the last-mentioned 
 point there are breakers, and a shoal 6 miles in breadth, some parts dry at 
 low water. Sailing in, keep over within a mile and a half of the south 
 point, for the river is interspersed with banks, to nearly 5 miles from the 
 opposite side. From hence to North point, the entrance-to Talagos river, 
 it is 2 leagues, with a channel of 4, 5, and 6 fathoms ; but between which 
 there is a shoal to be avoided, by not bringing the North point to bear 
 further north than E. N. E. The channel there is only one mile and a half 
 broad, but good anchorage round the point in 5 fathoms, abreast of the 
 river. At the mouth of the Nunez it is high water, on the full and change, 
 at 11, with a rise of 9 feet. The river is navigable 10 leagues up, for ves- 
 sels of burthen, the least water being 3 fathoms over the flats opposite the 
 river Talagos. The river Nunez has been known as a place of trade in 
 ivory, where, as at the rivers Pongo, Dembra, &c., it is very abundant. 
 
 A small isle, called Young Gonzales, lies about 5 miles to the eastward 
 from the regular entrance of the Rio Nunez. It is the southernmost of 
 three, having channels communicating with the Nunez ; and about 5 miles 
 true east from |t is the mouth of the river Cappatches. From Young 
 Gonzales a long dangerous flat of rocky ledges, gravel and sand, extends 
 S. W. (by compass) nearly six miles. At low water, a patch, three- 
 quarters of a mile in length, has over it only six feet of water. The Cap- 
 patches is a trading river, but shallow, and frequented only by boats, or 
 vessels not drawing more than 4 feet of water. 
 
 About 9 5 leagues to the south-eastward of the Nunez is Cape Verga, a 
 low point, being the westernmost of the Caxa islands. The high moun- 
 tains, 3 leagues inland to the northward of the cape, will serve to recognise 
 this part of the coast, as they may be seen 15 leagues distant. Thus 
 bearing East, (E. N. E. | E.) are they equally useful to ships bound to the 
 Rio Nunez, which, with this bearing, will clear the banks lying without
 
 128 
 
 the river, at 5 or more leagues to the south-westward. About 7 leagues 
 S. S. E. ^ E. (S. E.) from Cape Verga is the entrance to Rio PONGO, 
 which forms itself into several channels, each impeded by a bar of mud or 
 sand. The best of these is over the Kissing, or Mud bar, which extends 
 more than 2 miles to the westward of the main channel of the river. On 
 its north side are G feet, about the middle 12 feet, and on the south side 
 8 or 9 feet, at low water. Two hills up the country, bearing E. N, E., 
 serve as a mark for the bar, distinguished also by a grove of palm trees on 
 the north side. 
 
 To sail over the Mud lar, get the river open, and steer in N. E. by E., 
 keeping the two hills, which are moderately high, a cable's length open of 
 the North point, by which you will carry 4 fathoms in depth at high water, 
 or 2 fathoms at low water. Anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms, in the middle of the 
 river, abreast the palm trees on the larboard hand, which trees appear to 
 extend about two miles in length ; then send your boat up the river for a 
 pilot, or fire a gun twice or thrice, at intervals of about an hour, and 
 in all probability a pilot will come off to you. If bound to this place in 
 the night, approach no nearer than to the depth of 4 fathoms, until day- 
 light. If beating in, stand no further to the northward than to bring the 
 two hills in the middle between the two points of the river ; then stand to 
 the southward to 2 and 2^ fathoms. If going in, with a fair wind, bring 
 the north point of the river, with its palm trees, to bear N. E., and run in" 
 with it bearing N. E. by E. On entering, keep on the south side within 
 the bar, as the flood-tide sets on the northern breakers. Should you here 
 have If fathoms, you need not fear, as the bottom is all of mud. The river 
 hence lies east and west, about 8 miles ; and its depths, in mid-channel, 
 are 3, 4, 7, 6, and 5 fathoms. 
 
 THE SAND BAR is 5 miles to the southward of the Mud bar, and its 
 entrance is more intricate, therefore not to be attempted without a pilot. 
 This is, nevertheless, the mouth of the Rio Pongo, properly so called. In 
 the best channel, at the entrance, the depth is 12 feet at low water, and 
 within it are 4 and 5 fathoms. A small sand bank having showed just 
 above water, at high tide, to the northward 'of the Sand bar, and man- 
 groves having taken root on it, the bank consequently increased, and the 
 natives have planted palm trees on it. There is said to be a passage of 3 
 fathoms to the northward of this islet. Vessels bound to the Rio Pongo 
 sometimes make the high land of Cape Verga, and sometimes go to the 
 Isles de Los for a pilot, although one is not always to be found there. 
 Some run in by their latitude, taking care to sound frequently, as soundings 
 extend out a degree and a half to the westward. The time of high water 
 here, on the full and change, is 9 hours ; the rise about 10 feet. 
 
 DEMBIA RIVER is distant about 8 leagues to the south-eastward of the 
 Pongo. It is navigable for small vessels, and is chiefly resorted to by the 
 Portuguese for ivory. Two leagues from this is Sangaree river, and 65 
 miles to the south-westward of the latter is Point Tumba. The high vol- 
 canic land called Mount Suzos, or Sangaree, lies to the eastward of Tumba 
 point ; it has a regular conical peak, except on the south side, where there 
 is a protuberance half-way up, and serves as a very useful mark for the 
 Isles de Los, which lie westward about 2^ miles from the point. 
 
 ISLES DE Los. The largest of these islands is named Tamara, and is 
 the most western of the group. The easternmost, on which the English 
 factory is established, lies nearly north and south, having a high wood- 
 crowned hill at each end, giving it the appearance of two islands at a dis- 
 tance. Crawford's island lies between the two former, and three smaller 
 ones to the south complete the cluster. Tamara may be seen 7 or 8 leagues
 
 129 
 
 in clear weather ; it is moderately high, and thickly wooded, in shape 
 resembling a crescent, its concavity to the S. E. forming several good an- 
 chorages of 4 to 6 fathoms. These roadsteads may be entered either from 
 the northward or the southward, giving the points of the island a berth of 
 three-quarters of a mile, by which the Arethusa reef, extending a quarter 
 of a mile from the north point, will be avoided. Fresh water may be had 
 in abundance, from a spring near the principal anchorage. 
 
 The easternmost, or Factory island, is 44 miles in length ; the roadstead 
 is on the eastern side, and is very safe in dry weather ; but during the 
 rainy and tornado season there is little security beyond that of the goodness 
 of your cables and anchors. The English establishment now extends to 
 Crawford's island, which is considerably elevated ; from the N. E. of this 
 island are shoal flats extending to the distance of nearly two miles, they 
 are one mile in breadth, and dry, on the outer edge, at low water ; in 
 every other respect, except Cooper's rocks off Shark island, the chan- 
 nel through the islands is perfectly safe. 
 
 The ISLES DE Los are excessively commodious for trade, being most 
 easy of access, and commanding a communication with the numerous rivers 
 in the vicinity of the coasts. Good fishing may be found about all the 
 islands with the seine, and an abundance of turtle, with good fresh water. 
 From hence Sangaree mount is plainly seen in a northerly direction. It 
 may be an useful remark further to observe, that, north of the islands 
 from the Gambia, the soundings are all sandy, which change immediately 
 to mud on the south. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING FROM CAPE Roxo TO THE ISLES DE Los. By 
 the Baron Roussin. " A vessel starting from a point at 4^ leagues to the 
 westward of Cape Roxo, which will be a little without the meridian of 
 17 W. to the parallel of 10 40' N. will be outside of all dangers. From 
 hence a course S. E. ^ E. (S. 68 E.) and distance 68 leagues, will lead 
 her to the west point of Tamara island. On this course the soundings will 
 never be under 8 fathoms until near the shore of the island, and those on 
 the first course will be considerably more. From the parallel of Cape 
 Roxo to that of the western breaker 11 31' 32' N., at a distance of more 
 than 4 leagues to the westward of the meridian of 17 the depth will 
 increase progressively from 8 to 28 fathoms, and the bottom be entirely of 
 mud. This remark may be depended on to shew that a vessel is not far 
 to the southward of the parallel of the Jeba, or Great channel ; she cannot, 
 at the utmost, be more than ten miles from the positions already given. 
 
 "From this point, as far as the parallel of 10 40' N., the bottom is 
 nearly free from mud, and on passing to the southward of the parallel of 
 11 20' very slight traces of it remain, but are succeeded by a bottom of 
 fine white sand, sand and gravel, sand and broken shells, with a depth 
 varying from 12 to 50 fathoms. A vessel having left Cape Roxo and 
 arrived in latitude 10 40', may thence steer a direct course for the Isles 
 de Los. The S. W. edge of the Bissagos follows a gentle curve, from the 
 western breaker as far as the southern one, that of La Bayadere. The 
 bottom in this part presents a singular peculiarity. Amongst the fine 
 white sand, sand and broken shells, sand and gravel, of which it is most 
 frequently composed, a greenish coloured sand is sometimes found. The 
 depth decreases very gradually from 50 to 9 fathoms, from S. W. to N. E. 
 The remainder of the course to the Isles de Los passes over deep soundings, 
 as much as 50 fathoms, at the point of departure, and the least depth is 
 12 fathoms. 
 
 " No precise rule can be given as to the changes in the depth along this 
 track, nor as to the various nature of the bottom. It is known only that
 
 130 
 
 the ground, in the space passed over by this course, seems to be furrowed 
 with channels, which, commencing from the southern extremity of the 
 eastern channel of Bissagos, diverge toward different points between S. W. 
 and S. S. E. true. The furrows above-mentioned appear to have been 
 caused by the regular tides in the mouth of the Rio Grande, and prove, 
 beyond a doubt, that the outlet of the same channel is partly caused by 
 that river. With respect to the nature of the bottom, it is of fine sand, 
 in some places mixed with broken shells, small pieces of brittle rock, and 
 gravel, which appeared to be only a covering to beds of a whitish volcanic 
 sandstone, into which the lance penetrated but three or four inches, and 
 did not hold. A muddy bottom is not found until about 10 leagues to the 
 westward of the Isles de Los, and then only in small quantity, till within a 
 very short distance to the N. W. of those islands. 
 
 TIDES. " In proportion to the distance from the mouth of the Jeba, or 
 Great Channel of Bissagos, either to the northward or southward, the tides 
 lose their regularity. This interruption in the tides is evident in going to 
 the southward, as, at a few miles south of the parallel of the western 
 breaker, 11 31' 32" N., they are no longer perceptible, even on the edge of 
 the Bissagos. No decided course of the current was ascertained to exist, 
 but it is generally allowed that the waters have a greater inclination to flow 
 to the southward than to the northward ; and it may be presumed that it 
 follows the direction of the winds on the western edge of the Archipelago, 
 but it is seldom found to be considerable." 
 
 Between the Isles de Los and the sharp low point of Tumbo, there is a 
 safe channel, through which ships may carry 3 fathoms of water, and 
 which may be at times highly convenient to use, or even to run through 
 the group ; yet, without some good reason for so doing, it will always be 
 adviseable to go outside the islands, where certainly no dangers are to be 
 met with. 
 
 From TUMBO POINT to MATACONG ISLAND the bearing and distance are 
 S. E. by S. 7^ leagues. Tumbo point is the S. W. extremity of an island 
 bearing the same name, and separated by a very narrow high-water chan- 
 nel from the main land. To the southward of this point, the land falls 
 back to the north-eastward about 7 miles, forming an extensive but shallow 
 bay, at the bottom of which is an inconsiderable stream, called Tannaney 
 river. In the extensive bay between the Isles de Los and Matacong isle, 
 no detached dangers exist. The coast is safe to approach, the soundings 
 being gradual, and always affording good anchorage ; and it is in all parts 
 accessible to large ships, to the distance of 6" miles, which generally may be 
 considered sufficiently near to distinguish the land, and often to recognise 
 the mouths of the rivers. 
 
 MAHNEAH RIVER is about 12 miles E. S. E. from Tumbo point ; is, at 
 low water, scarcely accessible to the smallest coasting vessels, but the rise 
 of tide exceeds 2 fathoms. To enter this river, it is necessary only to bring 
 the western point of the entrance, while at the distance of 5 miles from it, 
 to bear N. E. by E. ^ E., and then steer toward it in that direction, until 
 you get close to the S. W., mud bank, when you may proceed along by the 
 edge of that bank, in a convenient depth, according to circumstances. 
 Within the river, the depths at low water are from 6 to 10 feet only. The 
 water discharged from this river must be very great, as the ebb tide runs 
 out with great rapidity. 
 
 RIVER MOREBIAH. The mouth of this river is about 18 miles S. E. by 
 E. ^ E. from the Isles de Los, and though its breadth within the points 
 nowhere exceeds half a mile, yet it is far superior to the Mahneah. In 
 approaching the coast abreast of the river, with its opening bearing
 
 131 
 
 E. N. E. E., distant 9 miles, and Matacong island S. E. by E. \ E., you 
 will have 6 fathoms of water on black mud ; from this situation the depth 
 will decrease gradually, on a bottom of the same kind, to 8^ fathoms at 
 the entrance of the channel. With the rounding of the land, between the 
 rivers Mahneah and Morebiah, bearing N. N. E., the east point of the en- 
 trance E. | N., and the middle of Matacong island S. S. E. f E., you will 
 have that depth. From this position steer N. N. E., until the east point 
 of the river bears E. |- S., and then stand in toward this point, or about 
 East ; but remembering, that both flood and ebb set partially over the ex- 
 tensive shoals that form the S. E. side of the channel ; some of these, how- 
 ever, being dry at low water, and nearly so at high water, their steep 
 boundary is perfectly discernible. In the elbow of the channel, the least 
 depth is 1^ fathom at low spring ebbs : this depth, however, continues but 
 a short way, and, from the time of altering your course to the eastward, 
 or steering straight in, you will seldom have so littlfe as 2 fathoms. Beyond 
 the east point, the depth varies from 4 to 6 or 7 fathoms, and for the ex- 
 tent of 7 miles up the river, it appeared to be clear of all danger. It is 
 high water, on full and change days, at 7 h. 40 m., and spring tides rise 
 11 feet. 
 
 MATACONG ISLAND is about a mile in length, surrounded by mud-banks 
 and rocks in all directions, so that no vessel of any burthen can lie at an- 
 chor within two miles of it. The channel which divides it from the main 
 is nearly three-quarters of a mile broad, but its muddy bottom, at low 
 water, is left dry. From Matacong island the coast trends to the eastward 
 a little more than 3 miles, where it turns abruptly to the northward, and 
 forms the west point of the mouth of the RIVER FOREECABREAH, the in- 
 terval being fronted with sand and mud banks, which extend more than 
 3 miles to the southward. The entrance of this river is above 2 miles 
 wide, and the least depth is 1 fathom at low spring ebbs. To sail in, it will 
 be necessary to pass close to the banks which project from the west point, 
 but at the same time to be cautious in approaching them, as they are steep- 
 to, and dry at low water. The outer sand will be apparent, even in fine 
 weather, at any other time than high water, and if seen, it may be safely 
 skirted in 2 fathoms near low water, or in 4 at high water ; and that you 
 may not get in at the back of this sand, do not bring the highest part of 
 Matacong island to the westward of N. by "W. ^ W. until the west point 
 of the river bears N. E. E. You may then safely enter, recollecting, as 
 a guide, that you should always keep the western side aboard, off which, 
 however, you will have to edge occasionally, to avoid the banks ; yet this 
 river is of very little consequence, as a ridge of rocks nearly crosses it at a 
 short distance from its mouth. The ebb tide here is extremely rapid, and 
 the overfalls, in the vicinity of the rocks, are dangerous to those who do not 
 possess a local knowledge of the river. 
 
 The RIVER MELLACOREE is at present of considerable importance in the 
 timber trade, and better objects for marks than any of those already de- 
 scribed. In entering, observe that, at 8 miles off shore, there are 6 fathoms 
 of water, and, with the river's mouth bearing E. by N., it will be fairly 
 open. Steer toward it, in that direction, until the soundings have decreased 
 gradually to about 3 fathoms, at low spring ebbs, with the following 
 bearings : East point of Yellaboi island S. by E. ; Sallahtook point, dis- 
 tinguishable by the trees being higher than elsewhere, bearing S. E. ^ S. ; 
 Bentee point, known by a remarkably large tree, E. by N. ; the outer 
 point of Tanah river, E. N. E. ^ E. ; and the rounding of the land, to the 
 northward of the river, N. E. | N. ; you will then be in the fairway. The 
 MIDDLE GROUND is steep and dangerous, but the soundings on the southern
 
 132 
 
 side are gradual, though the mud-bank is very wide ; borrow, therefore, 
 rather on that side, until nearly as far as Bellangsang point, when you must 
 haul over to the mouth of Tannah river, and there anchor. Higher up 
 there are some patches of rocks in the middle of the river, but at low water 
 they are seen, as well as the deep water-channel between them, which is 
 one-third of a mile in breadth, with a depth of 7 to 9 fathoms. By keeping, 
 the East point of the river Tannah bearing N. W. by W. ^ W., you may 
 pass through this channel in safety ; and, there being no further danger, 
 you may ascend the river to the factories established below Devil's island, 
 on the south shore ; the general depth varies from 5 to 9 fathoms. Here 
 it is high water, on full and change days, at 7 hours 40 minutes ; spring 
 tides rise 1 1 feet. 
 
 Besides the channel on the south side of the Middle ground, there is 
 also an inferior one to the northward ; to enter which, when 5 or 6 miles 
 off shore, bring the west point of Tannah river to bear E. f S., and by 
 carefully using the lead, you may proceed in with safety ; for, although at 
 its termination, it takes a slight turn round the N. E. corner of the Middle 
 ground, yet this is generally so well indicated, that you can scarcely be 
 deceived. On account of the soft nature of the bottom, vessels may ground 
 in several places in the vicinity of the Mellacoree river, without being in- 
 jured ; but a patch of foul ground, which surrounds the long reef off Sal- 
 lahtook point, must be carefully avoided. 
 
 From Sallahtook point the coast trends S. S. E. 7 miles, to a small river, 
 on the western point of which is situated Sangahtook factory ; and about 
 1^ mile to the westward of this point is Yellaboi island, surrounded by 
 mud-banks that are dry at low water. Four miles S. E. from Yellaboi is 
 a much larger island, with extensive mud-banks to the north-westward, 
 but with a deep channel between it and the main. It is called Corteemo, 
 and lies in the mouth of the rivers Scarcies. These rivers are known by 
 the names of Great and Little Scarcies ; the former is navigable for large 
 ships, but the other is adapted to very small vessels only, and requires 
 very careful pilotage. 
 
 THE CHANNEL INTO THE GREAT SCARCIES RIVER* is the best on this 
 part of the coast ; for, although the banks are steep, yet it is broad and 
 deep, and a ship of the line, by taking a proper time of the tide, might 
 moor off the inner point of Yellaboi island. To sail into this anchorage, 
 bring the west end or highest part of Yellaboi island to bear E. N. E., and 
 steer toward it in that direction, until you decrease the depth to 5 or 4 
 fathoms, which will happen suddenly. Now change the course, and, 
 keeping in 4 to 5 fathoms, steer direct for Inglis Pahboyeah river, bearing 
 E. ^ N., taking care to keep it well open of the inner point of Yellaboi 
 island, until the west point of that island bears N. by E. f E., when you 
 must haul directly in toward it, and, skirting along the steep mud-bank 
 
 * This channel has been buoyed, the expense borne equally by Mr. Henry Weston and 
 myself. The bearings of the inner or bar buoy are to the west end of Yilleaboyah, N. 2 W., 
 and to where the huts are on the east end, E. \ N., compass bearing. The outer buoy is situated 
 on the northern edge of the outward middle bank. The inner buoy is situated on the shal- 
 lowest part of the bar, having at high water, common tides, 16 feet ; but at the distance of a 
 quarter of a mile, due north from the buoy, there are 85 fathoms at high water, common tides. 
 The earliest opportunity shall be taken to remove the inner buoy further north, which will 
 render the channel safe for vessels drawing 16 feet water, at common tides, and 18 to 19, at 
 high water, spring tides. If you apply the healings to the chart of the Scarcies, they will 
 give the place of the inner buoy one quarter of a mile further in, as above. In a line with the 
 west point is where I purpose to lay it, in 1\ fathoms, low water. John Mac Cormack, 
 Agent to Lloyds.
 
 133 
 
 which borders the south side of the island, steer for its S. E. point, close to 
 which you may anchor in 4 fathoms. In reaching this anchorage, the 
 least depth you will have to pass over will be 2g fathoms at low spring 
 ebbs ; and this occurs only after hauling in for the island, and running 
 along the edge of the mud-bank. It is high water here, on full and change 
 days, at 7 h. 10 m., and spring tides rise 11 feet. 
 
 SIERRA LEONE. From Yellaboi island the Cape of Sierra Leone 
 bears S. by W. | W. (South) 25 miles. This cape, with the coast eastward, 
 forms the south side of the great river, bearing the same name. The coast 
 northward of the mouth of the river is low and level, bordered with a 
 shoal bank, three miles in breadth, and which has upon it several dangerous 
 rocks ; but on the south side the land rises into hills, which are properly 
 the Sierra Leone, or Lion Mountains, that have given name to the river 
 and country. The mouth of the river, which is two leagues wide, is ob- 
 structed by an extensive sand-bank, called the Middle Ground^ which in 
 many parts is dry at low water, but having on each side a passage ; that 
 on the north, however, is only fit for small vessels, in a depth, half a mile 
 from shore, of 2 and 3 fathoms. The principal channel is that between 
 the Middle bank and the cape, being fit for vessels of every burthen, 
 varying in depth from 5 to 10 and 12 fathoms, and is about two miles in 
 breadth. 
 
 The Carpenter is a dangerous rock, lying at the distance of nearly a mile 
 W. N. (W. S. W. | W.) from the N. W. extremity of the cape. This 
 rock is clearly seen at half tide, and may always be distinguished by the 
 breakers over it : the flood stream sets directly thus, the channel formed 
 by it and Cape Sierra Leone ; and though it may safely be approached 
 within half a mile, yet it will be proper for those beating down the river, 
 with the sea breeze and a strong ebb tide, to be careful and not approach 
 so near. 
 
 On the starboard side of the river Sierra Leone, the coast is indented 
 with several inlets, respectively named Cape, Pirate's, Whiteman's, St. 
 George's, or Freetown, Susan's, and Thompson's bays ; the latter of which 
 is bounded on the east side by Farran point. FREETOWN, the capital of 
 the colony, stands on the bay of that name, and is protected by fort Thorn- 
 ton, which stands on the highest ground in its immediate neighbourhood, 
 except that on which the Martello tower is erected at a distance of a quarter 
 of a mile. The town is situated at the foot of the range of mountains 
 already noticed, whose general height is estimated from 2000 to 3000 feet. 
 Ships proceeding from Cape Verd to Sierra Leone, and having reached 
 the latitude of 9 15' N., should endeavour to gain soundings on the edge 
 of the great bank from the Bissagos to Cape St. Anne. From a depth of 
 50 fathoms, grey sand, you may steer a true course S. E. by E., until you 
 arrive in the parallel of the cape, in 8 30', from whence a true easterly 
 direction will enable you to distinguish the mountains of Sierra Leone, 
 which are often seen at a distance of 14 leagues, though, in hazy weather, 
 very prevalent on this coast, they are often invisible 6 or 5 leagues. It is 
 recommended to make a constant use of the lead, when approaching to- 
 wards the entrance ; should the depth gradually vary from 20 towards 14 
 or 13 fathoms, and suddenly shallow to 7 or 8 fathoms, you will not be 
 more than 3 leagues distant ; and should this happen towards evening, it 
 will be better to anchor till daylight. Proceeding as we have thus directed, 
 and having made the high land of Sierra Leone, you should bring it to 
 bear E. S. E. \ E. (East.) The cape makes in a small low point, having 
 a ridge of cocoa-trees close to the water's edge ; and when within 3 leagues 
 of the cape, you may observe the Carpenter rock, with the sea constantly
 
 134 
 
 breaking over it. Having passed the cape within a quarter of a mile, in 
 9 or 10 fathoms, a S. E. by E. E. (E. f S.) course, 3| miles, will carry 
 you to Freetown, where there is anchorage in 14 or 15 fathoms, muddy 
 bottom, a quarter of a mile from shore, with Fort Thornton bearing S. by 
 W. ; the east point of the bay S. E. ^ E. ; and the west point, called King 
 Tom's point, W. by N. Moor with the best bower to the eastward. The 
 watering-place here is very convenient, and the water excellent. You fill 
 your casks in the boat, with a hose, which leads from a cascade. 
 
 In sailing up the river, do not approach nearer to the Middle bank than 
 7 fathoms. Farran point is high, and has a house upon its summit. It has 
 sometimes, in hazy weather, been mistaken for Cape Sierra Leone, although 
 two leagues to the eastward ; the consequence of which has been, that 
 vessels have touched on the Middle ground, a circumstance which serves 
 as a useful mark to obviate, as Farran point, bearing S. E. by E. ^ E., 
 well open to the north of the cape, points out the mid-channel between 
 that bank and the Carpenter. Vessels coming in more from the north- 
 ward will clear the west end of the Middle ground, in 3^ fathoms, with 
 King Tom's point on with the centre barrack, bearing S. S. E. f E. 
 
 (S.IIE.) ' 
 
 The TIDE at Freetown, flows on the full and change days at 7 k. 50 m., 
 and rises 12^ feet. During the rainy season, the tide is very regular and 
 strong, running 6 and 7 knots an hour, and the ebb sets rapidly on the 
 Middle ground. In the dry months, it commonly flows on shore at 7 h. 
 30 m., with 7<| hours' ebb, and 4^ flood. In this season the ebb runs 2^ 
 miles an hour, the flood only 2 miles. 
 
 FALSE CAPE bears S. by "W. ^ W. (S. E.) from Cape Sierra Leone, 
 distant about 4 miles, and is situated to the southward of a slender sandy 
 bay, bordered with trees. The cape is a conspicuous projecting point. 
 From False cape to York, or the Sisters' river, the coast trends S. f E. 
 (S. S. E. \ E.) 12 miles ; and from York to Cape Chilling S. W. 
 (S. by E.) 7 miles. At Cape Chilling the chain of Sierra Leone 
 mountains terminate, after having made a high double land, which is seen 
 a great way off. The cape itself is low, covered with trees, and appears, 
 at 3 or 4 leagues distant, like a small island ; but the interior, or south ex- 
 tremity of the range of mountains, is extremely high, and may be seen a 
 distance of 14 or 15 leagues. 
 
 The BANANA ISLANDS are separated from Cape Chilling by a channel 
 12 miles in breadth, and are chiefly foul and rocky. A vessel may anchor 
 to the northward of them, with the N. E. extremity of the group bearing 
 S. S. E. ^ E., and the "Western part S. S. W., bearing a depth of 7 and 8 
 fathoms, towards the island, but little more than 2 fathoms, a cable's length 
 from shore. There is also anchorage to the southward; but the best 
 position is in 5 fathoms, two miles from shore, on clayey ground, the N. E. 
 point bearing S. ^ E., and the highest hill S. by W. ^ W. The best 
 landing-place is in a sandy bay, at the S. W. end, where wood and water 
 may be obtained. 
 
 YAURY BAY is formed by Cape Chilling on the north, and Sassa point 
 on the south, distant from each other 6 leagues, S. S. E. and N. N. W. 
 This bay is encumbered with a shoal which stretches 4 miles from the 
 coast, many parts of which dry with the ebb, and have little more than 
 4 feet at high water. The Plaintain isles and Bengal rocks extend 5 miles 
 to the westward of Jassa point, on the flat between Yaury bay and 
 Sherbro' inlet. 
 
 TIDES. The tides divide off the False point of Sierra Leone. To the 
 northward of that point, the flood runs to the northward ; to the southward
 
 135 
 
 of that point, it sets to the south. Hence, at the Bananas, the flood is 
 from the N. W., and the ebb contrary. Here the tide flows, on the full 
 and change days, at 8 h. 15 m. During the equinoxes, it rises 9 or 10 feet 
 perpendicular; other spring tides, 8 or 9 feet. At the Plaintain isles, it 
 rises about a foot and a half more than at the Bananas ; but at the Bashaw 
 or Turtle isles, more to the southward, the rise is 6 or 7 feet, common 
 spring tides. 
 
 SHERBRO' INLET is the channel between the main and Sherbro' island, 
 the western extremity of which is called Cape St. Anne. The main land 
 forms the north side of the inlet, and consequently the north side of the 
 island forms the south side. From the extremity of the north side, the 
 coast bends somewhat to the S. S. E. to Yallucka river, and is encumbered 
 with a mud-bank and several shoals, as far as the river Bagroo, which is 
 6 leagues further. The north side of Sherbro' island extends 8 leagues to 
 Jamaica point, the eastern extremity, and the coast between is bordered 
 with an extensive mud-bank. About 4 leagues from Cape St. Anne, on 
 this side of the island, is the remarkable tree named Little Pow Grande ; 
 and 3| miles to the eastward of this spot is Pow Grande. Jenkin's village 
 is distant 4^ miles from the latter, and affords anchorage for large vessels 
 in 5 to 7 fathoms. 
 
 Vessels bound to Sherbro' inlet should steer from the west end of the 
 Bananas, toward the Bengal rocks, S. S. E. f E. (S. E. ^ E.) 14 miles, so 
 as to give them a berth of about 3 miles. Having rounded these rocks, 
 steer S. E. f S. (S. E. by E.) 5 leagues, taking care to avoid the hard 
 sand-bank on the east, which is steep-to. In running on, you may shoalen 
 your water to 4 fathoms, on the flat of Yallucka river, upon the eastern 
 side, and thence continue the same course 4 leagues further to the southern 
 bank, making due allowance for tide, whether ebb or flood. The last 
 course will lead to a mile and a half from shore, in about 4 fathoms of 
 water, and without the edge of the bank. You may now run up along 
 shore, for two leagues, to Jenkin's, taking care to avoid the edge of the 
 middle ground on the north, which here leaves a channel of only half a 
 mile between it and the shore. 
 
 THE BASHAW, OR TURTLE ISLANDS, consist of eight or ten in number, 
 and are situated on a great bank, that extends to the N. W. of Sherbro', 
 and S. E. to the shoals of St. Anne. The bank on which these islands lie 
 is intersected by numerous channels, which are navigable for boats at high 
 water, but are so complicated as to render description useless, and indeed 
 of no utility. 
 
 THE SHOALS OF ST. ANNE. The limits of the bank on which these 
 shoals exist, are but yet imperfectly known. The best authorities consider 
 the northern extremity to lie in latitude 7 56' ; the south extreme, 7 31' 5'; 
 and the western limit, 7 48' N., longitude 13 29' W. The shoals of St. 
 Anne are divided by numerous channels, varying in depth from 6 to 10 
 fathoms. A narrow passage of this nature divides St. Anne's bank from 
 that on which the Turtle islands are situated ; but this, like the others, 
 should not be attempted with the imperfect description we are at present 
 in possession of. As a general caution to vessels bound from Sierra Leone 
 towards the Gulf of Guinea, we should recommend a S. W. f W. (S. W. 
 by S.) course, 12 leagues; and having reached the latitude of 7 30', in 
 the meridian of 13 40', a course S. E. by E., easterly, will take you 
 somewhat more than 20 leagues to tho S. E. extremity of Sherbro' island. 
 
 About 6 leagues from the river Shebar, on the coast to the eastward of 
 Sherbro' island, is the river Gallinis, and from hence to Cape Mount, the 
 coast is very low, having a fine sandy beach, and covered with trees.
 
 136 
 
 CAPE MOUNT may be seen 25 or 30 miles, the land on each side being low, 
 but somewhat higher on the north side, with a flat sandy beach to the 
 eastward. The cape itself is distinguished by cliffs, which may be seen 4 
 leagues off". To fall in with Cape Mount, you ought to keep in the latitude 
 of 6 40', having on account of the current, which sets toward the shore, 
 frequent recourse to the lead, when you think yourself near the land. In 
 the night, you ought not approach it nearer than to 26 fathoms, unless well 
 acquainted. The roadstead lies to the westward, where you may anchor 
 in 10 to 15 fathoms, bringing the extremity of the cape to bear South, or 
 S. by E. In fine weather, vessels may ride securely between Cape Mount 
 and the river of that name to the north-westward ; but in the rainy 
 season, during Southerly and S. "VV. winds, there is a tremendous sea and 
 breakers on the shore, so that, during these months, vessels should lie well 
 out, as otherwise it may be difficult to get to windward. 
 
 CAPE MESURADO is high, distant about 43 miles S. E. by S. (S. E. by E.) 
 from Cape Mount ; the coast between is low, having a white sandy beach. 
 At the distance of 2 miles from the shore is a depth of 10 fathoms. Vessels 
 may lie in any depth from 5 to 15 fathoms, off" the river St. Paul, which 
 lies about 3 leagues to the northward of Cape Mesurado; and there is also 
 anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms, muddy ground, with the cape bearing S. E. 
 by S., distant 2 or 3 miles. The rainy season, between Cape St. Anne and 
 Cape Mesurado, usually commences about May, and terminates in October ; 
 it is generally accompanied with thunder and lightning, and the sea sets 
 so hard to the N. E. along the shore, as to cause a most violent surf on 
 the shore. 
 
 Cape Mesurado is an elevated promontory, almost perpendicular on the 
 north side, but with a gradual declivity towards the sea on the south. 
 There are regular soundings, of 20 to 15 fathoms, muddy bottom, at 8 
 miles off shore, along which the current sets strongly. At 2 or 3 miles off" 
 shore, with the cape S. E. by S., is a depth of 15 to 10 fathoms, muddy 
 bottom, and a common anchorage. With the cape bearing N. E., the land 
 appears like an island, with trees rising out of the water to the north ; and 
 at 7 leagues off", it appears in its insular form, the land on each side being 
 very low. In the winter months here, as at Cape Mount, vessels should 
 lie out, on account of the heavy sea in the bay, and the southerly winds, 
 which would otherwise render it very difficult to get out to windward. 
 To anchor at the cape in the rainy season, bring the mount to bear S. E., 
 distance off" shore 3 or 3| miles, and come to in 14 fathoms of water. 
 
 The RIVER JUNK is distant about 30 miles S. E. by E. from Cape Me- 
 surado, and may be known by a remarkable hill, in the shape of a saddle, 
 lying inland. Vessels may anchor in 15 fathoms, clear sandy ground, with 
 the entrance of the river bearing N. N. E., and the saddle hill N. E., dis- 
 tant 4 miles from the shore. This will be found convenient during the 
 rainy season; but in fine weather, you may lie nearer the shore, in 12 
 fathoms. Fresh water may here be obtained, but caution must be ob- 
 served with the inhabitants, who are not so friendly as those to the north- 
 ward. There is said to be a small reef, close in shore, at 6 miles to the 
 westward from the mouth of the river. 
 
 LITTLE BISSAW, or Picaniny Bassa, is distant about 3| leagues S. E. 
 from the river Junk, and has a dangerous reef, that extends 5 miles to the 
 S. E. ; vessels therefore should not anchor in less than 16 fathoms. Two 
 and a half leagues from Little Bissaw are the Nine Trees and Bullam town, 
 the former being an excellent mark for this part of the coast. The anchor- 
 age off Picaniny Bassa is with the Nine Trees bearing S. E. by E., and a 
 large and remarkable house, the residence of the chief, N. E. by E.
 
 137 
 
 Between Cape Mount and Bassa, the trade of the coast has generally 
 been a mere system of barter, called the Bar Trade, from the value of all 
 merchandise being estimated at so many bars of iron. Ivory is the staple 
 commodity, as well as a fine species of cam- wood. Those who possess 
 ivory, being anxious to trade, readily come off in canoes, provided the 
 vessel comes to ; but great caution is required. Your intention to trade 
 should be signified, on arrival, by firing a gun and hoisting your colours, 
 on which the natives will come off; fires will be made on the beach, by 
 which their desire to trade is indicated. 
 
 THE GRAIN COAST. To the eastward of Bullam is the river St. 
 John ; about two miles to the southward of which is the town of GRAND 
 BISSAW, a place of some trade, situated in a small safe cove of 6 to 3 
 fathoms, and bounded on the west by two large rocks above water, 
 between which and the shore a vessel may moor, in case of necessity, in 
 2^ or 3 fathoms. The anchorage of Grand Bassa, in the rainy season, is 
 in 15^ fathoms rough blue marl, with the Nine Trees bearing north, 
 distant 6 miles; in the dry season anchor nearer shore in 12 fathoms. 
 
 Somewhat better than two leagues to the southward of Bassa cove is 
 Taboccanee rock, distant about two miles from the village of that name, 
 on the shore : a reef extends from the rock nearly six miles to the west- 
 ward, between which and the shore there is a navigable channel for boats 
 only. The distance from Grand Bassa point to the river Sestros is about 
 40 miles, the coast between is generally foul, and requires light chain 
 cables for anchoring ; several villages distinguish this part of the shore, 
 one of which, Grand Currow, may be known by a high hill inland to the 
 N. E., and that of Manna by a clump of high reddish trees. The RIVER 
 SESTROS, or Sesters, is recognised by a hill in the interior, and the land 
 appearing double ; it is only fit for boats, as its entrance is impeded with 
 rocks two miles from shore, where there is anchorage in 10 fathoms, 
 muddy bottom. 
 
 Two and a half leagues from the river Sestros is the rock of that name, 
 known by several others around it, and a palm tree on the point ; three 
 leagues further is SANGWIN, distinguished by the Devil's rock, with a 
 bushy clump on the top, distant two miles from the town, to the south- 
 ward of which there is anchorage. From Sangwin to SETTRA KROU, a 
 distance of 36 miles, the coast is generally foul, and affords but partial 
 anchorage. The towns of Baffa, Battoa, Tassou, &c., which lie in this 
 space, are unimportant. To the southward of Settra Krou is KROU 
 SETTRA, before which there is anchorage in 15 or 16 fathoms, sandy 
 ground : this place may be known by its high bare trees, appearing like 
 inasts ; but in approaching be careful to avoid a dangerous reef, extending 
 85 miles from the shore, bearing, in a line with the town, E. N. E. Six 
 miles from this shoal is the Swallow rock, under water, lying off Wappou, 
 from which it bears S. W., 2| miles. Wappou has a single tree on the 
 beach, and has a large rock lying to the westward, named Flat isle. 
 Niffou, Drou, and Baddon lie to the southward, and afford some trade in 
 ivory, but the coast hereabout is foul 
 
 We now reach the town of Grand Sestros, or Sesters, distant 15 leagues 
 from Settra Krou ; this is a populous place, and may be known by a large 
 single tree on the beach, and a high round rock 2^ miles to the southward. 
 There is anchorage, in 20 fathoms, 4 miles to the southward of Garraway, 
 a town situated 7 miles to the south-eastward of Grand Sestros, which 
 may be known by three hills on the west, and a clump of trees on the 
 extremity of its southern point. Rock town, situated 3^ leagues from 
 Garraway, takes its name from a reef that extends from it 3 or 4 miles,
 
 138 
 
 partly above and partly under water ; between this and Cape Palmas is 
 Cape Palmas Little Town, a larger one of that name lying near the pitch 
 of the cape. The coast hereabout is foul, and the depths irregular, so that 
 it may be proper for vessels not to approach nearer than 20 or 25 fathoms. 
 
 CAPE PALMAS is moderately high, and should not be rounded in 
 less than 28 fathoms. It is well wooded, having several gentle acclivities 
 towards the sea, and red clay fissures appearing like roads at a distance. 
 The town stands on the eastern elevation, and is surrounded by a large 
 mud wall. The Cape Shoal lies 3 miles to the southward of the cape, 
 being divided from the shore by a depth of 13 fathoms ; but the current 
 here sets with great rapidity to the S. E., though small vessels may anchor 
 with security near the shoal, making due allowance for this circumstance. 
 Coley's Rock is a submarine danger, varying in depth from 6 to 10 feet ; it 
 is surrounded by a depth of 7 fathoms, increasing to 13 at no great dis- 
 tance. This rock is distant about 6 miles to the westward of the Cape 
 Shoal, Cape Palmas bearing E. S. E., 3^ leagues, and Garraway trees 
 N. 5 W., 4^ leagues. There is another sunken rock to the eastward of 
 Cape Palmas, upon which H. M.S. Athol struck, on the 16th December, 
 1830. The ship was running along shore, in 12 fathoms water, at the dis- 
 tance of 3 or 4 miles from the land, and 1^ mile from the outermost 
 breakers, when she struck on a sunken rock ; the bearings from which were 
 Grand Cape, Palmas town, N. W., westerly ; a round rock above water, 
 E, by N. ; a clump of trees on the eastern extreme of the land, E. ^ S. 
 Variation about 19 W. There were 10 fathoms on each side of the ship. 
 
 As a general caution to vessels running down this coast during the night, 
 it is recommended not to approach nearer than 18 fathoms between Cape 
 Mount and the river Sestros ; between the latter and Settra Krou, it may 
 be proper not to get into less than 20 fathoms, and from thence to Cape 
 Palmas, 22 fathoms ; but in approaching the latter, observe what has al- 
 ready been stated, not to round it in less than 28 to 25 fathoms, in order 
 to avoid the dangers we have here described. 
 
 THE IVORY COAST. Five leagues to the eastward of Cape Palmas 
 is Cavally, a river and town distant 10 miles from Gruway, a little town 
 which lies 5 miles to the eastward of the cape. CAVALLY stands on the 
 eastern bank of the river, off which there is anchorage in 18 or 20 fathoms, 
 but the river itself is only navigable for boats. This place may be known 
 by the two points of the river's mouth, which is wide and barred ; though, 
 in coming from the westward, you will not perceive the river till you are 
 nearly to the S. E. of it. To the eastward of Cavally, as far as Growa, a 
 distance of 12 miles, the land in general is even, but near the latter it ap- 
 pears double, and from thence to Tahou it rises considerably. Growa may 
 be known by some rocks and breakers before it, and has a roadstead of 20 
 fathoms, good ground. Two leagues E. S. E. from it is Tabou, a low flat 
 point, which appears beyond two hummocks on the beach, projecting into 
 the sea, with breakers over it, two miles from which vessels may ride in 
 15 fathoms. 
 
 The land to the eastward, as we have observed, is much higher ; but 
 particularly as we approach within 5 or 6 leagues of Tahou, where it ap- 
 pears more elevated than any other part between it and Cape Mount. 
 TAHOTJ is a town of some importance ; there is good riding before it in 12 
 to 14 fathoms ; but care must be observed not to approach the shore, 
 which is rocky. The river St. Pedro lies half a league to the westward of 
 Tahou ; and 2^ leagues further, in the same direction, is BEREBY, to the 
 southward of which is the Devil's rock, connected to the shore by a ledge 
 on the west side.
 
 139 
 
 ST. ANDREW'S BAY. Eleven leagues to the eastward of Tahou is 
 the bay thus denominated, which may be distinguished by an elevated part 
 of the coast to the westward, called the High Land of Drewin, a rocky 
 shore, having rocks extending two miles into the sea. The western point 
 of St. Andrew's Bay is named Swarton Corner, a bluff point, with, two 
 large round-topped trees, appearing about a league to the west above the 
 land ; with these trees bearing N. W. by W. you may anchor in 9 to 12 
 fathoms, fine sandy bottom, with three high hills appearing in one, 5 leagues 
 inland. Behind Swarton Corner wood and water may be obtained, but 
 for this accommodation a douceur or dash must be presented to the chief. 
 St. Andrew's river is one of some magnitude, falling into the bay. To the 
 eastward of St. Andrew's, the coast has a picturesque appearance, being 
 lined with trees of various colours ; it is in general low, and has a sandy 
 beach. The river Frisco, or Lagos, is distant about 10 leagues, where 
 water may be obtained, and ivory bartered for. Seven leagues to the east- 
 ward is the town of Kotrou, and 9 leagues further is that of Lahou. 
 
 LAHOU is the chief town on this coast, and carries on the chief barter 
 in gold dust and teeth. It stands on the west side of the river, and af- 
 fords safe riding, varying in depth from 8 to 10, 12, and 14 fathoms ; the 
 bottom on the east side of the cape being composed of clay, while that on 
 the west side is mud, with the depths of water somewhat similar. JACK 
 LAHOU is nearly 5 leagues to the E. S. E. E. (East) from Cape Lahou ; 
 6| leagues further is that of Picaniny, or Little Bassam, situated to the 
 northward of a tract of sea, which, from its unfathomable depth, is termed 
 the Bottomless Pit. 
 
 GRAND BASSAM is distant 8| leagues from the former, and stands on the 
 eastern bank of the river Costa, which may be known by a cliff or rock 
 on its western point. There is good anchorage here two miles off, in 12 to 
 9 fathoms, mud and clay bottom. Plenty of water and refreshments may 
 be obtained here. The coast between Grand Bassam and the mouth of 
 the Assinee river trends E. S. E. (E. ^ S.) 6^ leagues. This was a place in 
 former years of some trade, but the town is now abandoned. There is 
 anchorage about a mile and a half from shore, in 10 to 12 fathoms, sand 
 and clay. 
 
 THE GOLD COAST. Three leagues to the eastward of Assinee 
 lies the small town of Albanee, between which there is anchorage in 13 or 
 14 fathoms, good ground. Tabo is situated two leagues further, in the 
 same direction, on the west side of Gold River ; but this part of the coast 
 must be approached with great caution, as it is shoal at the distance of two 
 leagues, and has a heavy surf setting on shore. From Tabo to the pitch 
 of CAPE APOLLONIA the coast trends S. E. (S. E. by E. f E.) 4 leagues ; 
 the ground around the cape is in general foul, but there is good anchorage 
 with the fort, which stands on the beach, bearing N. ^ "W., and the cape 
 N. N. W. ^ \V. The landing is very bad, and it is dangerous to cross 
 otherwise than in the canoes of the natives. The gold-dust of this place 
 has been noted for its superior quality and quantity, and it, with ivory, 
 may be purchased in barter, as at Cape Lahou. The distance from hence 
 to AXIM is 6 leagues, where there is a Dutch factory, called Fort St. Antony, 
 two miles to the westward of which is the Seenna, Colra, or Snake river. 
 The entrance of this river is small and rocky, and may be known by three 
 black rocks, with breakers over them, lying half a mile from shore, to the 
 eastward of the entrance. The ruins of another Dutch fort, named Bran- 
 denburg castle, lie 4 leagues south-eastward of Axim. 
 
 The coast from St. Andrew's bay to Cape Apollonia appears extremely 
 low, but it then assumes an undulating appearance, and is thickly wooded.
 
 140 
 
 Between Tabo and the cape are four remarkable eminences, standing along 
 the shore, at equal distances from each other, and serve as a good mark 
 for Cape Apollonia. 
 
 CAPE THREE POINTS is the centre one of three headlands, which 
 project into the sea, and range in an east and west direction upwards of 3 
 leagues. The coast hereabout is high even land, but the shore is rocky, 
 and should not be approached nearer than 2^ or 3 leagues, by which pre- 
 caution you will avoid the current that sets strongly on the reefs. There is 
 anchorage in 12 or 13 fathoms, about one league from Acquidah, a Dutch 
 fort, standing on the easternmost projection of Cape Three Points. A bank 
 of 9 and 10 fathoms lies about 5 leagues south of Acquidah, between which 
 and the shore there is a strong current that sets to the eastward. 
 
 DIXCOVE is distant 4 leagues to the eastward of Acquidah, and affords 
 abundant supplies of wood and water ; gold is also here abundant. The 
 fort is English, being of a quadrangular form, on a rising point ; the an- 
 chorage is in 15 fathoms, clear oozy ground, with the easternmost point of 
 Cape Three Points bearing W. ^ N., and the fort North, or N. by W., or 
 even N. N. W. At Dixcove there is a small harbour formed by a reef of 
 rocks, which affords a fine landing-place. The Dutch fort of Bautrey is 3 
 miles to the north-eastward of Dixcove ; then follows Tacorady, another 
 belonging to the same nation ; and half a mile to the westward of Secondee 
 is Fort Orange. Secondee is an inconsiderable place, which may be known 
 by the British factory or fort, built on a reddish point of land, with a low 
 sandy beach on each side. The coast hereabout is very rocky, and ought 
 not to be approached in less than 16 fathoms during the night time. About 
 a league to the southward of Tacorady is a reef, with breakers, having 4 
 fathoms near it. 
 
 About two leagues to the eastward of Secondee is the river St. John, 
 or Boosempra, a short distance west of which is Chama, distinguished by 
 the Dutch fort of St. Sebastian ; and 9 miles further is Commenda, where 
 two forts stand, one English, and the other Dutch. This place may be 
 known by a small elevation on the left, named Gold hill. The anchorage 
 is in 9 or 10 fathoms, sandy ground, with the English fort bearing N. W. 
 
 ST. GEORGE DEL MINA, or Elmina, is the chief settlement of the Dutch 
 on this coast, and is distant about 8 miles to the eastward of Commenda. 
 The fort of St. George stands on a hill named Mount St. Jago, behind the 
 fortress or castle on the beach. The anchorage in the roads is in 7 fathoms, 
 sandy bottom, the fortress bearing north, two miles distant, with Mount 
 St. Jago open a little to the westward. Cape Coast castle is distant 3 
 leagues E. by S. of Fort St. George. 
 
 CAPE COAST CASTLE. This is the principal British fort on the 
 Gold coast ; and as it lies low, and as some vessels have not readily been 
 able to distinguish it, but have gone to leeward, and with much difficulty 
 and loss of time have been able to get back, the following particulars will 
 serve to obviate such mistakes in future. Cape Coast castle may therefore 
 be known, first, by Phipps' tower, now called Fort William, surmounting 
 a small conic hill of that name. This building is circular, having a barrack 
 in the centre like a pent-house ; secondly, another circular building, called 
 Smith's tower, of which the fortified wall only is seen on a hill of red clay ; 
 and, thirdly, by McCarthy, or Hospital's battery, of an equilateral triangle, 
 with a small citadel at the N. E. corner. Cape Coast castle presents a 
 frontage of 180 yards towards the sea; but, as it has been observed, 
 it lies low, and the distinguishing marks here noticed will be of utility, 
 and serve to prevent its being mistaken for Annamaboe, hereafter de- 
 scribed.
 
 141 
 
 CAPE COAST LIGHT. On the 1st of October, 1835, a light was exhi- 
 bited at Fort William, which burns at an elevation of 204 feet above the 
 medium level of the sea, and at a distance from the beach of 760 yards. 
 It is visible to vessels in every direction, whether approaching or sailing 
 parallel to the line of coast. In steering for the anchorage, vessels ought 
 to bring the light to bear N. f W., keeping the lead going, and to anchor 
 in 6 or 65 fathoms water, the light being then distant from the vessel 
 about two miles. 
 
 In ordinary weather, the light will be visible at the distance of about 
 seven leagues, and will be of great service in preventing vessels being 
 carried to leeward of their port, by the strong south-westerly current 
 which runs off the coast, about 10 months in the year. 
 
 The anchorage in Cape Coast castle roads is in 7 or 8 fathoms, stiff mud, 
 the castle flagstaff bearing N. N. "YV. 1^ mile, in a line with the hall of the 
 castle and Smith's tower ; Elmina castle "W. by N., distant 3 leagues, and 
 Annamaboe point E. by N. 10 miles. 
 
 ANNAMABOE. Having passed the Dutch fort of Nassau at Mauree, to 
 the eastward of Cape Coast castle, you will have regular soundings of 8 
 or 9 fathoms, at a league distant from the shore, until you reach the English 
 fort of Annamaboe. This is a small quadrangular building, standing low 
 on the beach. Anchor before the town, in 7 5 fathoms, with Fort Corman- 
 tine (next described) bearing E. N. E. ; or perhaps a more preferable 
 situation will be, with the flagstaff of the fort brought in one with the 
 second of the Cormantine mountains, a chain of high land, seen to the east- 
 ward. CORMANTINE is a Dutch fort, standing on a hill, 5 miles to the 
 eastward of Annamaboe, off which there is anchorage in 7 fathoms, the fort 
 bearing N. W. or thereabout. The Dutch settlement of Apam, which 
 was next eastward, is now abandoned. The British fort of TANTUMQUERRY 
 is distant 6 leagues from Cormantine, and 2 leagues from Apam. The fort 
 stands a league to the north-eastward of a point of the same name, which 
 is rendered foul by a reef that extends a mile from shore, and consequently 
 must have a berth in approaching the anchorage off the fort, in 9 fathoms. 
 WINEBAH. About 2| leagues to the eastward of Tantumquerry is a 
 high conspicuous mountain, called the Devil's hill, near to which there is 
 good anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms, the hill bearing N. N. W. Winebah 
 is distant about 1^ league from this anchorage, and was distinguished by a 
 fort, which was destroyed and abandoned some years ago. From Winebah 
 there is a communicating path to the commercial town of Kibbs, in the 
 country of the gold mines ; and on the east is a small river, the w r ater of 
 which is good, if filled at a proper distance from the sea. The natives re- 
 quire a small duty for watering. The small fort of Barracoe, now deserted, 
 stands on the side of a woody hill, about 3 leagues eastward of Winebah, 
 and may be known by a double hill 3 leagues inland, called the Paps. 
 
 ACCRA. This place is distinguished by three forts, named St. James, 
 Creverour, and Christiansburg, belonging respectively to the English, 
 Dutch, and Danish. The little river Sacoom is 6^ leagues to the eastward 
 of Barracoe, having on its eastern side a little round hill, called Cook's Loaf, 
 with some high mountains beyond it, named the Tafou mountains, from 
 whence to Accra, distant about 2 leagues, the land is even and moderately 
 high. The best anchorage at Accra is in 6 or 7 fathoms sandy bottom, 
 distant two miles from the shore, with the English flagstaff bearing N. by 
 W. ^ W., or having brought the red spots seen on the beach, to bear 
 North, you may anchor in 7 fathoms, but the other is to be preferred. 
 The surf on the beach here beats frequently very high, and occasions much 
 difficulty in landing. Accra is a place of considerable trade in gold and
 
 142 
 
 ivory. During the springs the tide rises 8 feet ; the currents set in general 
 to the eastward, except about the midcldle of January, during the Harmat- 
 tan season. 
 
 Vessels bound from Cape Coast castle to Accra, and leaving the former, 
 during the night, are recommended not to run more than two-thirds their 
 distance, as if they happen to get to leeward, it will be difficult to work 
 back, against a sea and strong current. 
 
 The inconsiderable settlement of the Danes at Temma, lies between 
 Accra and that belonging to the English at Prampran ; two leagues from 
 the latter is the Danish fort of Ningo, the coast between affording good an- 
 chorage in 6 to 9 fathoms, gravel and sand. Ningo Grande is a high sugar 
 loaf hill, the highest of the range called Crabo, which lie about eight 
 leagues inland. 
 
 THE RIVER VOLTA. The coast to the eastward of Ningo as far as the 
 river Volta, a distance of 7 leagues, is extremely low, being little above the 
 level of the sea, so that vessels coming from the westward, do not discern 
 the river until it bears N. N. "W., when the island within the entrance may 
 be distinguished ; there are regular soundings along the shore, and when 
 abreast of the river the water changes suddenly to a dark olive colour. 
 The Danish fort of Adda castle stands on the western bank, 11 miles from 
 the entrance. The Volta takes its name from the rapidity of its stream, 
 and pours such a quantity of water into the sea as to cause the discolour- 
 ation already stated. There are high breakers at the mouth of the river, 
 which is only a mile wide, having two bluff points, that on the west called 
 Sandy Bluff, that on the east Woody Bluff. In entering the river, run in 
 from the east side within the breaking ; there is anchorage in 7 fathoms, 
 with the entrance of the river bearing N. N. W., a soft muddy flat, cast 
 off by the stream, extending 3 leagues into the sea, having 6 to 9 fathoms 
 water. 
 
 REMARKS UPON THE APPEARANCE OF THE LAND ON THE GOLD COAST. 
 From the Dutch fort of Bautrey to Cape St. Paul, the ship standing along 
 within 5 and 6 miles of the shore. By CAPTAIN R. WAUCHOPE, R. N., 
 H. M. S. THALIA. Taken from the Nautical Magazine for 1835, page 644. 
 " To the eastward of Fort Bautrey, the fort of Secondee is seen. Its ap- 
 pearance from the sea is that of considerable strength ; it stands close to the 
 water, built upon a bank of horizontally stratified sand-stone, of a reddish 
 colour, surrounded on all sides, except that of the sea, by thick wood. A 
 sandy narrow beach stretches to the east and west of it. The bare rock 
 again appears at the termination of the beach to the eastward, and is seen 
 in several places within 8 or 10 miles from the fort, in this direction, and 
 then a densely wooded coast. 
 
 " The next fort is the Dutch fort of St. Sabastian, at Chama, or Assina. 
 This is a large white fort, surrounded by natives' huts, having a long nar- 
 row strip of white sandy beach to the west of it; the beach is broken 
 to the eastward for above three miles, by the wood extending to the 
 water's edge, when again a long narrow beach continues for 8 or 10 miles, 
 and the red cliff is seen bare of vegetation in several places. The land not 
 high, but entirely covered with low wood. The next fort is that of the 
 British fort of Commenda, or rather the two forts. They may be seen at 
 the same time with Chama. One of the forts, of a dark grey stone, a 
 square building, seemed to be in tolerable repair ; the other, about a mile 
 to the eastward, was a complete ruin. A number of native huts were near 
 the forts, and a greater number of canoes were hauled up on the beach. 
 
 " From thence to the eastward the two large and magnificent looking 
 forts (Dutch) of St. George del Mina make their appearance, as if newly
 
 143 
 
 white- washed, and are of a dazzling white. On approaching 1 
 served, about half a mile apart, two other small forts, the 
 
 them, we ob- 
 one to the 
 
 westward being round, and the other square. The western large fort is 
 situated upon a rising rocky ground, about 70 feet above the level of the 
 sea. The cast large fort stands on the beach, in the middle of a consider- 
 ble sized village. Some of the houses are of stone, but chiefly miserable 
 looking huts. To the eastward of Del Mina, the same low undulating 
 wooded line of coast stretched along with a narrow strip of sandy beach. 
 
 " Soon after Del Mina is clearly made out, the round white- washed tower 
 (Phipp's tower) of Cape Coast castle is seen rising magnificently from 
 the sea ; it is built upon rising ground, to the rear of the castle, and is the 
 first object which is seen. On approaching, the handsome and extensive 
 castle of Cape Coast is clearly seen ; and, on landing, the interior does not 
 disappoint expectation, as the whole of the buildings are in admirable re- 
 pair. A few miles to the eastward of Cape Coast castle, the ruined English 
 fort of Morees is seen. The mud huts of the natives still surround the 
 square brown ruin. Still further to the eastward, the small English white- 
 washed fort of Annamaboe is seen. The appearance of the coast is similar 
 to what we have already passed, viz., a narrow sandy beach, rocky 
 in some places, and low undulating hills, covered with low underwood, 
 behind. 
 
 " A few miles to the eastward is the ruined square brown Dutch fort 
 of Cormantine, situated on a pretty rocky green hill, close to the sea. The 
 natives' huts extend to the westward of the fort, and to the eastward the 
 same description of coast as that above mentioned. At 5 leagues to the 
 eastward of Cormantine, Tantumquerry point is seen ; it is low and rocky. 
 There is a reef of rocks lying about a mile to the N. E., on which the sea 
 was breaking when we passed it. On first seeing the point, one fort only 
 is observed ; on approaching, another square brown fort, nearly joining the 
 former, is seen, and the low land becomes visible beyond the Devil's hill, 
 which is the highest hill on the coast between Cape Three Points and 
 Accra. When abreast of Tantumquerry point, the fort of Apam is seen 
 to the left of Devil's hill, a brown ruin of considerable size. A large 
 native village surrounds it, except to seaward. Along this whole line of 
 coast (for we have run it down within from 4 to 6 miles) there are native 
 villages to be seen at intervals, consisting of thatched mud huts. 
 
 " The next fort is the English fort of Winebah, now in ruins. When 
 abreast of this, you can just see Tantumquerry point, and the fort to the 
 westward, and Barracoa point to the eastward. Winebah stands upon a 
 low line of hills, having nothing particular to mark it, except a white- 
 washed thatched house of considerable size on the beach, and the ruins of 
 a fort a little to the left. There is high land in the distance. The next 
 point is Barracoa point, with a very remarkable palm tree upon it ; and to 
 the eastward of it, considerably higher than the low land, the peculiarly- 
 shaped double hill, called the Paps, is seen in the distance : this and the 
 palm tree point out its situation very distinctly. On nearing the point, the 
 fort, and flagstaff, and native village are seen, and the distant coast beyond, 
 terminating in a very low point. On rounding Barracoa point, the Paps 
 are much more distinctly seen, being much nearer ; and the remarkable 
 hill called Cook's loaf, a conspicuous round hill, is seen close to the sea. 
 
 " The land to the west of Cook's loaf appears very low, and to run out 
 to a very low point, having still the same narrow strip of sandy beach ; 
 and on the point the three white forts of Accra are seen, and a fourth, the 
 Danish, three miles to the eastward. The English and Dutch are within a 
 mile of each other, so that the coast about Accra is particularly well marked.
 
 144 
 
 " We sailed from this on the 17th November, and on the 18th hauled 
 in for the land, and found ourselves in the morning abreast of Ningo, a 
 Danish fort. It is a good looking white-washed fort, apparently in good 
 repair, about 7 miles off shore. The water shoals to 7 and 6 fathoms ; a 
 little further cut, 12, 13, and 14 fathoms; and all the land seen to the 
 eastward appears very low indeed. 
 
 " The marks for Ningo are some hillocks to the eastward, and the high 
 conical mountain of Ningo Grande inland ; the hillocks I could not make 
 out clearly ; when abreast of Ningo a small white fort is seen to the west- 
 ward, which is, I suppose, the English fort of Prampram. There is the 
 same narrow line of sandy beach, as we have observed all along, to the 
 westward of Prampram still. Another white-washed house, or fort, may 
 be seen when abreast of Ningo. To the eastward, the tops of trees are 
 only to be seen, the land being so low. Six and seven miles from the shore, 
 the soundings along the coast are 11 to 13 and 14 fathoms, coarse sand, and 
 in some places rocky bottom. 
 
 " A great quantity of sea-weed was seen to the eastward of Ningo, the 
 first we met with on the coast. Abeam of us, about 1. p. M., some miles to 
 the eastward of Ningo, observed a flagstaff, and two large thatched houses ; 
 a number of naked negroes ; and on the beach was a good deal of surf. 
 The wood on the coast here consists chiefly of a peculiar kind of palm, the 
 stem similar to the cocoa-nut tree, but the upper part more bushy, and 
 similar in appearance to the silver tree at the cape. 
 
 " At 3 P. M., 1 8th November, saw the mouth of the river Volta, bearing 
 !N". N. W. It is on this bearing alone upon which it can be seen. The two 
 bluff heads at the entrance appear very bold, and make the mouth of the 
 river very obvious. In standing along to the eastward, the entrance was 
 not seen above five minutes, as it was soon shut in by the eastern bluff. 
 
 " The whole coast to the eastward of the Volta to Cape St. Paul, is very 
 low ; nothing but trees are seen. In 9^ fathoms off the cape, this is its ap- 
 pearance ; nor could the cape itself be made out, except from the trending 
 away of the land to the northward." 
 
 BIGHT OF BENIN. 
 
 CAPE ST. PAUL is 5 leagues distant from the Rio Volta. Hereabout the 
 land is low, and cannot be seen at more than 3 or 4 leagues off; the point is 
 thickly wooded, the current setting strongly round it. About a league to 
 the westward of it is the entrance to the river Secos, or Dry river. Cape 
 St. Paul, as well as the whole coast of the Bight of Benin, to Cape For- 
 mosa, its eastern extremity, is extremely low, so that one point is with 
 much difficulty distinguished from another. About 4| leagues N. E. of 
 Cape St. Paul is the Danish fort of QUITTA. From thence to Acquijah is 
 3 leagues ; and from the latter to Paurey, the distance is about the same. 
 Gugligou lies 4 leagues to the eastward, and may be recognised by four 
 hills lying a league to the eastward. 
 
 LITTLE POPOE is about 3 leagues from these elevated spots, which are 
 the only eminences hereabout. The town stands on a small river of the 
 same name, southward of which there is anchorage in 9 or 10 fathoms, 
 coarse white sand. In the bight from Quitta to Little Popoe, 8 to 14 
 fathoms will be found 4 leagues from shore. GREAT POPOE is distant 7^ 
 leagues to the eastward, and is distinguished by three factories, belonging 
 to the English, Dutch, and Portuguese. WHYDAH stands 4| leagues
 
 145 
 
 E. by S. from Popoe, the coast between which is low and swampy, and in 
 some parts wooded. Of the latter you will perceive a remarkably high 
 tree, appearing like a tower, about 1| league to the eastward of Popoe; 
 and a league from this object is a conspicuous elevation, called Mount 
 Palaver ; from hence to two round-topped trees, called the Brothers, the 
 distance is a league ; and these will serve to point out Whydah road, 
 which is 3 miles to the eastward. The anchorage is in 8 fathoms, muddy 
 bottom, the two Brothers bearing X. N. E., and the town of Whydah 
 N. by E. GRIWHEE stands on a lagoon or lake within Whydah, which 
 runs parallel with the beach, and communicates with the sea at Popoe. 
 The coast being low, and no object to intercept the view, in sailing to the 
 eastward from Popoe, Griwhee may be seen with a telescope, when you 
 are in 8 fathoms, distant a league from the shore. 
 
 The next town to the eastward of Whydah is Jackin ; after that follows 
 Appee, where formerly an English factory was established ; the next is 
 Porto Novo, distant 3 leagues from Appee, and 10 leagues to the eastward 
 of AVhydah. Vessels anchor before the town of Porto Novo, in 7 or 8 
 fathoms, black clay, with shells. Porto Novo is the port of ARDRAH, the 
 capital, which is distant 8 leagues to the northward. The roadstead of 
 BADAGRY is in 6 or 7 fathoms, and is tolerably good ; it lies 4 leagues from 
 Porto Novo, the town of that name being situated a league ftom the beach, 
 on the north bank of the lake or river that runs from Ardrah into Lagos 
 river, which is here 600 feet wide. 
 
 RIVER LAGOS. From Badagry to the entrance of the river Lagos, 
 the coast is very low and marshy. It is bordered all along with palm trees, 
 and the landing is rendered dangerous by the high surf. Besides, it is 
 much subject to heavy rains and tornadoes : these may be foreseen, by 
 the great thunder and lightning, with the rising of black clouds, which 
 commonly precede them ; then it is best to hand all your sails, except your 
 foresail, whcih you may keep in the brails, to command your ship, and run 
 before the wind during the tornado, for what you get is to windward. 
 
 The entrance to the river Lagos, though half a mile broad, is reduced to 
 little more than half that breadth, by the banks that project on each side. 
 On the west is a small river, where wood and water are obtainable. Lagos 
 island, within the entrance, is 5 miles long, and 1^ in its greatest breadth ; 
 at its north end is the town of Lagos, having good anchorage before it. 
 About 4 miles to the eastward of the entrance, or the English road, lies 
 the French road and the watering-place. Cradoo Lake extends 15 leagues 
 from west to east, its greatest breadth not being above two leagues ; the 
 town of Cradoo stands on the north shore, about 3 leagues from its eastern 
 extremity. Between Badagry and Lagos river numerous huts are scattered 
 along the beach, in the midst of pretty groves of cocoa-nut trees. The 
 mouth of the river Lagos is so contracted that it may easily be passed 
 unobserved, and probably would be were it not for the breakers at the 
 entrance. Ten leagues to the eastward of Lagos is the small town of 
 Palma, and 9 leagues further, in the same direction, is Oddy : the coast 
 from hence, for 8 leagues, trends to the eastward, where it takes S. by E. 
 ^ E. direction (S. E. f S.) 3 leagues, to a small fishing town interspersed 
 with several lofty trees ; from this small town the coast trends, in the 
 same direction, 7 leagues to the river Benin, or Formosa river. 
 
 The following perhaps may not be considered as misplaced : Dalzel says, 
 " From Sherbro to Rio Formosa, or river Benin, (which is the part of 
 Africa with which Europeans are best acquainted) a tract of 1400 miles 
 of sea coast, there is not one navigable river, bay, or harbour into which a 
 ship can enter ; nor is there one river or creek (the Volta and Lagos 
 
 v
 
 146 
 
 excepted) into which a sailing-boat can advance 10 miles from the sea ; 
 very few of the creeks will even admit a boat, and not one on the Gold 
 coast, except at Chama and Elmina ; a small boat may row up the former 
 about two miles, and up the latter about a quarter of a mile. 
 
 The shores are, almost in every part, difficult of access, from the heavy 
 surf which breaks upon the beach ; it is scarcely possible to land anywhere 
 but in a light canoe, and even in that way it is frequently impracticable 
 for many days together ; in many parts, besides, there is, near the shore, 
 scarcely water enough for a canoe, and the breaking of the waves becomes 
 there so impetuous, that all communication between the shore and the 
 shipping is frequently interrupted for three weeks together, and can seldom 
 be effected with safety. 
 
 THE RIVER BENIN, OR GREAT FORMOSA RIVER, appears like a 
 green low bushy strand, in front of a thick row of trees of regular and 
 moderate height ; in the vicinity of the river the usual depths vary from 
 4^ to 5 fathoms, at two leagues from shore, but off the mouth it is not 
 quite so deep. The course from Lagos to Benin river is S. E. (S. E. by 
 E. f E.) 32 leagues ; but it is advisable for strangers to keep in the parallel 
 of 6 N., and having made the land near the small fishing town already 
 noticed, coast along shore to the entrance ; the water before which is 
 generally of a dark green colour, and more shallow than on any other part 
 of the coast. 
 
 The RIVER BENIN is about two miles wide at the entrance, having a 
 bar of mud, clay, and sand, that extends a league into the sea, on which 
 are only 2 fathoms spring tides, and it is therefore not fit for vessels 
 drawing more than 9 or 10 feet. At a few miles from the sea this river 
 is only half a mile wide ; and at New Town, which is 6 leagues up, little 
 more than 400 or 500 yards. Two branches near New Town, called Gato 
 creek, and Waree creek, are nearly equal in magnitude to the main trunk ; 
 one, running to the N. E., communicates with Gato, and the other with 
 the river Waree, or Forcados. The direction of the main trunk is about 
 E. N. E. ; and, according to the report of the natives, at about 50 miles 
 up, it is not navigable for vessels of 50 tons. The depth of water in any 
 part does not exceed 4 fathoms. 
 
 The kingdom of WAREE is situated to the south of Benin river. Its first 
 town lies near the bar, and is called Salt Town ; the second is named Bobee, 
 or Lobou ; and the third, which is the sea-port of the capital, is called 
 New Town ; the last is opposite Reggio town and point, on the east side of 
 the entrance of Gato creek. Both shores of the main branch, as well as 
 the creeks, as far as Gato on one side, and Waree on the other (with the 
 exception of a few spots) consist of impenetrable morasses covered with 
 mangrove trees, and generally inundated, even during the dry season, as 
 the banks are very low. Formerly several European nations, as the 
 Portuguese, Dutch, English, and French had establishments on this river, 
 chiefly at Gato ; but trade has so much decreased, that they have been all 
 abandoned, and merchant vessels, now trading here, merely hire a house 
 for bartering in as long as may be necessary. The slave-trade, which is 
 carried on to a great extent in all the rivers of this coast, appears to be the 
 cause of the decline of legitimate commerce. This river, like all the others 
 on the coast, is pestilentially unhealthy, and the mortality that invariably 
 occurs in the crews of vessels trading here, is appalling ; the disease is a 
 malignant remitting fever, which generally proves fatal within the third 
 day after the attack. The chief articles procured in this river are palm oil 
 and ivory ; pod-pepper (cayenne) was also an object of commerce, but is 
 now more plentifully procured from the West Indies. In exchange the
 
 147 
 
 natives take cloth (scarlet particularly) beads, guns, and gunpowder, 
 hardware, spirits, &c. The best season for traders to the Benin river is 
 between the month of September and the latter end of February, during 
 which period there are clear refreshing breezes, with fine weather, and 
 land-winds favourable for going out ; but, beyond the month of February, 
 as the weather changes, getting out is attended with difficulty and danger. 
 Here the tide flows 6 hours, at full and change, and rises 5 or 6 feet 
 during the rainy season ; the ebb is very rapid, and frequently washes 
 away portions of the river banks. 
 
 The BEST ANCHORAGE without the bar is in 4^ fathoms, heavy mud and 
 clay, distant 4 or 5 miles, with the river well open, and the N. W. head 
 bearing N. E.. In ENTERING, stand toward Salt Town within a league, 
 until the N. W. head bears N. E. by N. (nearly N. by E.) then steer N. E. 
 by E. about two leagues toward the larboard shore, as you thus avoid the 
 Lobou bank, which lies on the opposite side, and which reaches more than 
 half-way over. Having advanced, Jo point, which is covered with trees, 
 will be seen on the starboard side. By steering for the middle of the 
 river, off this point, you may there drop anchor in 4 fathoms, having a 
 creek with an islet at the mouth to the northward. This creek is called 
 Waccow creek, and comes down from Waccow's town, which is 5 miles up, 
 from Benin river. The anchorage here is best for vessels intending to stay 
 any time in the river, being open to the sea breezes, with a free draught 
 through the roads, and in a centrical situation for trading purposes. Within 
 Jo point is Calabar creek ; at 5 miles higher, on the opposite side, is 
 another inlet, called Lago creek, having an islet on each side of its entrance, 
 surrounded by a mud-bank : the latter will be avoided by keeping over 
 to the starboard shore, until you are off the large opening, called Gato 
 creek, where you may anchor abreast the town of Reggio on the north, 
 and New Town on the south, in 3| and 4 fathoms. 
 
 The RIVER ESCRAVOS is distant 4^ leagues, S. by E. E. (S. E. by S.) 
 from that of Benin, and has not more than 2 fathoms at the entrance ; a 
 bank also extends some considerable distance from its south point. The 
 land from hence winds to the eastward, 5 leagues to the RIVER DOS FOR- 
 CADOR, or "Waree. The entrance to this river may be known by an island 
 in the centre, and another named Paloma, near the shore on the south 
 side ; the entrance is shoal, having but 2 fathoms water, and a flat extends 
 from the S. E., but without, there is anchorage in 7 fathoms. A league 
 within the river is the town of Paloma : the city of WAREE is distant 
 from this town 5 leagues, in a N. E. direction. The RIVER RAMOS is not 
 a stream of much importance ; its entrance is distant 17 miles S. 3 W. 
 (S. by E. ^ E.) from the river Forcados, and is scarcely a quarter of a mile 
 broad. The RIVER DODO, another inconsiderable stream, is 20 miles 
 S. W. (S. by E. 4 E.) ; and about 7 leagues S. by E. E. (S. E. f S.) 
 from the latter is Cape Formosa. 
 
 CAPE FORMOSA, and the land around it, is so low, that it is not easily 
 recognised, and soundings of 14 or 15 fathoms may be obtained ere you 
 are aware that land is near. Within this depth, the first objects to be 
 distinguished are the trees, which at first seem to grow in the water, and 
 intimate your approach to shore, at between 2 or 3 leagues from which 
 you will have 8 fathoms water ; but we would recommend vessels not 
 to get nearer, as at this distance they are without the influence of the 
 current, which in July and August sets strong to the eastward. All the 
 coast from the Benin river to Cape Formosa, a distance of nearly 40 
 leagues, is low, swampy, and unhealthy, and is thinly inhabited, and but 
 little frequented.
 
 148 
 
 BIGHT OF BIAFRA is the innermost part of the Gulf of Guinea; 
 it is bounded on the north by Cape Formosa, and on the south by Cape 
 Lopez. Cape Formosa divides it from the Bight of Benin. A straight 
 line, uniting both promontories, and passing near Prince's island, would 
 measure about 580 miles, and would be upwards of 250 miles from the 
 mouth of the Old Calabar river, which enters the innermost corner of 
 the bight. The shores of the bay probably extend to more than 800 miles. 
 
 The CURRENT prevailing in this bay does not appear to be in any way 
 connected with the equatorial current of the Atlantic Ocean, which com- 
 mences near the island of Anno Bom, but to be a continuation of that 
 current which comes up from the Cape of Good Hope, along the western 
 shores of Africa, for Captain Boteler says, that all the currents along 
 Prince's island set strong, and in the dry season commonly between N. N. W. 
 and N. N. E. The wind generally blows from the S. W. or South. The 
 current, however, is changed by the tornadoes, whenever they occur at full 
 or change ; at which time, blowing from the S. E. or N. E. with great 
 violence, they alter the direction of the current to W. S. W. or W. N. "W. 
 
 The QUORRA RIVER, or Niger, whose principal branch, the Nun, empties 
 itself into the sea near Cape Formosa, is the first of six rivers which in- 
 tersect the coast between the land of Formosa and the New Calabar river. 
 The Nun is the only one of the number that is accessible, and this is ren- 
 dered difficult by a shoal and small rock, half a league from the mouth, on 
 which the sea breaks ; the water is muddy off the entrance, as far as 7 
 fathoms water. The second is that of St. John, or Bento, and is distant 
 about 1 1 miles from the former. The third is called St. Nicholas, and 
 opens when it bears N. N. W. : it is 11 miles from the river Bento. The 
 fourth, or St. Barbara, is 11 miles E. ^ S. (E. N. E. f E.) from that of 
 St. Nicholas ; the entrance is wide, but does not open until it bears N.N. E. 
 The fifth, or St Bartholomew, is 7<| miles to the eastward, and has shoal 
 ground extending from the entrance to the distance of 4 miles, without 
 which are 3 or 4 fathoms. The river Sombreiro, or sixth river, lies 10^ 
 miles to the eastward, and is the last of the six which lies between New 
 Calabar and Cape Formosa ; it opens when bearing N. by W., and makes 
 with a large tapering bluff on the west side. The coast between Cape 
 Formosa and the Calabar is thickly covered with mangrove ; it has a sandy 
 beach, without which are 6 and 7 fathoms, bottom of stiff mud and clay ; 
 a strong current generally sets to the eastward. 
 
 Vessels bound to New Calabar, or Bonny rivers, are advised to make 
 the sixth, or Sombreiro river, which opens when it bears N. N. W., in 
 order to ascertain their situation. Between it and the western extremity 
 of Calabar, called Foche point, there is a bank of hard sand extending from 
 the shore, nearly two leagues, as far to the eastward as Foche point, where 
 it is bordered by a line of breakers ; the sea occasionally breaks on the 
 western extremity also, but it may be passed in 5 or 6 fathoms. From off 
 the river Nun, or Quorra, the course to Foche point is E. S. E. ^ E., 20 
 leagues, running along in about 8 fathoms, muddy bottom, distant between 
 3 or 4 leagues from land. It is better not to run further on this coast than 
 the sight of land ahead in the evening, but come to anchor, lest you be set 
 to leeward. After leaving Sombreiro river, the shoal, already noticed, will 
 oblige you to haul off a point or two, but with daylight, Foche point will 
 be seen before you get that length. 
 
 NEW CALABAR AND BONNY RIVERS. Rough corner is the eastern ex- 
 tremity of Now Calabar and Bonny rivers. There is a channel on each 
 side into the respective rivers, but the middle part is occupied by a large 
 bank extending out to sea, and on several parts of which are only 3 feet of
 
 149 
 
 water, with one or two islets, and several spots nearly dry at low water. 
 From Foche point to the eastern point of the entrance of the Calabar, the 
 river is two miles wide ; but lower down, between Foche point and the 
 middle bank, or Calabar flat, is little more than a mile. The bar is formed 
 by a spit of sand, extending to the S. E. from Foche point ; its inner part 
 dries, but without this are 10 or 15 feet water. There are several shoals 
 in the channel without the bar, on the west side ; the mark for which is, 
 Foche point bearing N. E. f N., and with these bearings the channel may 
 be entered, by giving the shoals a proper berth. 
 
 BONNY RIVER. The best anchorage off Bonny river is with Foche 
 point bearing N. ^ W. about 8 miles, and Rough corner N. E. E. the 
 same distance ; or Jewjew point, a low point a mile within the latter, a 
 little open to the left of it. The anchorage here is strong holding ground, 
 and you will be near the fair- way of the entrance without the banks in 4^ 
 fathoms, within -a mile from the bar ; the latter extends S. by E. from the 
 great middle ground or flats, its outer extremity bearing S. W. 7^ miles 
 from Rough corner. The BALETJR BANK lies to the eastward of the bar, 
 and extends 4 miles S. E. and N. W. ; the channel between it and the bar 
 is a mile in breadth ; the middle and eastern patches lie to the eastward ; 
 and between these and the Bonny flats, which extend from shore, and are 
 steep-to, lies the eastern or Portuguese channel into the river. The Por- 
 tuguese bank lies to the eastward of the patches. The town of Bonny 
 stands on the western side of a creek, 3 miles from Jewjew point. On the 
 opposite side is the point and town of Peter Fortis, below which is a bank 
 dry at low water. 
 
 You will enter the river over the tail of the bar, by bringing Peter 
 Fortis point well open of Jewjew point. This will enable you to clear the 
 west end of Baleur bank in 85 fathoms ; but take care that the flood 
 through the Portuguese channel will not drive you towards the Calabar 
 flats, which are steep-to. Having passed the Baleur bank, steer N. E. 5 N., 
 keeping Rough corner open on the starboard bow ; the water then in- 
 creases from 7 to 12 and 16 fathoms, as you approach the Bonny flats, the 
 spit of which is half a league W. S. W. from Rough corner ; as you ad- 
 vance to Jewjew point, the soundings gradually decrease from 15 to 10 and 
 9 fathoms. Keeping the starboard shore on board, you will then reach 
 Bonny, and anchor opposite a sandy point, with houses on it, at the en- 
 trance of the creek leading to the town, distant 4 miles from Rough 
 corner. During the day-time, a vessel may enter Bonny at any time of 
 the tide, with wind and clear weather ; keep a steady look-out, and the 
 western breakers will direct you. 
 
 Although the mouth of the Bonny is surrounded by shoals, and there 
 are two dangerous bars to pass, yet, when once in the river, nothing can be 
 finer ; the water deepens to about 10 fathoms, and, for the first 7 or 8 miles, 
 the breadth is about 4, when it receives a large tributary stream, which 
 vessels, not drawing more than 13 or 14 feet, can ascend for some miles. 
 Vessels trading for palm-oil lie two miles below this stream. The river 
 ought never to be attempted without good pilots. 
 
 Captain Midgley says, " The estuary of the New Calabar and Bonny 
 rivers is 7 or 8 miles wide, between Foche point and Rough corner. Having 
 made the Rio Sombreiro, or sixth river, which is open when bearing 
 N. N. W., Foche point will be seen further to the eastward, and will ap- 
 pear from the deck to be the extremity of the land in sight. Foche point 
 will appear rather bluff; and on advancing to the eastward, when the 
 point bears N. E., two ragged trees upon it have a great resemblance to a 
 topsail schooner at anchor behind the point.
 
 150 
 
 " If bound to New Calabar, anchor in 5j fathoms water, with Foche 
 point bearing N. E, and send a boat for a pilot. The pilots' town is at 
 Foche, upon the banks of a creek, in within a cable's length up the river 
 from the point. Whoever has charge of a boat going into this river, should 
 be extremely cautious, as, owing to the breakers, the point cannot be ap- 
 proached within more than half a league, until the boat has rounded the 
 point-breakers, and entered the river so far, that the coast to the westward 
 will be shut up behind the point. Hence, upward, they may run the boat 
 upon the bold sandy beach in safety, as there is not the least fear of being 
 molested by the natives ; however, if they can find an opportunity, when 
 unseen, they will pilfer every article that is not too hot or too heavy to 
 carry away. 
 
 " Between the Rio Sombreiro and Foche point there is a kind of gap, or 
 indent in the land, which is very remarkable, as the land elsewhere in the 
 neighbourhood is uniformly level, or very nearly so. 
 
 " If bound to Bonny, when Foche point bears N. E., haul rather more 
 to the S. E. into 6 fathoms of water, (to avoid the west end of the Breaker 
 island flats) and be careful, by hauling to the southward, not to get into 
 less water, especially upon a flood tide. As the vessel advances to the 
 eastward, she will gradually raise Rough corner (a low and level elbow 
 land) upon the larboard bow ; and at this time, Breaker island, which is 
 very low and sandy, with one small solitary patch of brush upon it, lies at 
 the mouth of the two rivers, will be seen from the mast-head, like a dry 
 sand-bank. Keep the vessel in 6 fathoms water, and anchor when Foche 
 point bears North. This anchorage is about one mile further out than the 
 position generally adopted, but it has not only the advantage of clearer 
 ground, and consequently better anchorage, but it gives more tune upon a 
 flood tide to get sail upon the vessel. 
 
 " Bonny bar has long been notorious for the great number of anchors 
 lost upon it, and in its vicinity ; the cause of which is the heavy short sea 
 that invariably gets up after a change of wind, or a moderately heavy 
 squall. All vessels trading to the Oil rivers of Africa, should have the 
 windlass and bits well secured, and good anchors and cables, as they some- 
 times ride exceedingly heavy, and in very exposed anchorages. A boat 
 must be sent into Jewjew town, at the entrance of Bonny river, for a pilot, 
 if one be required. 
 
 SEASONS. " The seasons here appear to have been imperfectly described. 
 The rains generally commence in the latter end of May, or early in June, 
 and gradually increase, with strong S. S. W. and S. W. breezes, during the 
 months of July, August, and great part of September, toward the end of 
 which month they as gradually terminate. In July and August, heavy 
 squalls frequently prevail ; and in these months the wind very rarely shifts 
 more than between S. S. W. and S. W., and the rain is incessant from sun- 
 set to nearly noon next day, when it ceases for a few hours, and again 
 commences with more or less violence in the evening. In October the 
 weather becomes more settled, with light land-winds, and occasionally 
 showers of rain, which, however, yield to the moderate sea-breeze that 
 sets in about 10 or 11 a.m. In November the tornadoes commence, and 
 are at first violent, gradually decreasing in strength, as the Harmattan or dry 
 season commences, although they are occasionally prevalent from this month 
 to May. In December, January, and February, is the Harmattan season ; 
 and in these months the sea-breeze sets in about noon, and blows with very 
 moderate force from the W. S. W. and Westward until sunset, when it dies 
 away to a calm. During the night there is little or no wind, and the weather 
 is extremely sultry and oppressive, with very heavy unwholesome dews.
 
 151 
 
 " After daylight a light air springs up from the Northward or N. N. E., 
 which gradually increases to a moderate force, and continues until about 
 1 1 a. m., when it falls calm, and soon after is succeeded by the light 
 westerly breeze. The Harmattan, however, sometimes blows steadily and 
 without intermission, from the N. E. quarter, for several days together, 
 especially about the new and full moon. It is at this season that the 
 smokes prevail, and are exceedingly injurious to the European constitution. 
 These smokes are so dense, that it is impossible to see a cable's length from 
 the ship for days together ; and any vessels that may be in the offing, in- 
 ward bound, have no resource but to anchor, and wait with patience for 
 clearer weather. In March, April, and May, the weather is clear, with 
 light land-winds at day-break, which gradually die away, and are suc- 
 ceeded by the "W. S. "W. breeze, about 10 a. m., and this breeze blows with 
 moderate force during the remainder of the day, and greater part of the 
 night. In these months the atmosphere is serene and clear, particularly 
 during the nights, which are very fine indeed. The palm-oil season com- 
 mences in the early part of March ; the oil becomes plentiful in April, and 
 continues to be so until September, when it declines ; and from October 
 to March it is, properly speaking, out of season, although small quantities 
 of it may be procured in these months." 
 
 OLD CALABAR RIVER. The coast to the eastward of Bonny river 
 to the Calabar is low, and covered with trees ; it is bordered with sand, 
 and has not any particular mark to distinguish it. Five leagues E. by S. 
 (E. f N.) from Bonny is Andony river, rendered unnavigable by a hard 
 sand-bank, with breakers at the entrance. Twenty leagues E. f S. (E. by 
 N.) from Andony is the western extremity of the entrance of Old Calabar 
 river, called Tom Shot's point ; from which to Backasey or East head, 
 opposite, the breadth is 1 miles. A shoal extends from Tom Shot's point 
 to the S. S. W., 10 miles, and is nearly dry at low water in several places, 
 with heavy breakers, which may be heard and seen at a considerable dis- 
 tance ; there are also several shoals in the middle of the entrance, and a 
 broad shelf extends 4 miles to the southward of the Backasey land, and 
 encumbers the eastern side of the river for 6 leagues within the entrance. 
 The East head is high and steep, with a break in it, called Backasey gap. 
 
 From off Bonny river the course to the entrance of Old Calabar river is 
 E. f S., in 10 fathoms, soft oozy ground. As you draw towards the river, 
 the depths decrease to 7, 6, and 5 fathoms, hard ground ; the East head 
 then becomes visible, bearing E. N. E. ; and having stood on to the east- 
 ward, until it bears N. N. E., the ground will be found soft, the haul-in 
 North, bordering on the hard ground, when you will soon descry Parrot 
 island. Having discerned Parrot island, you should keep away in 4 fathoms, 
 soft ground, towards the mouth of Qua river, on the starboard side, when 
 you will deepen your water to 5 and 6 fathoms. Tobacco point is a head 
 of land to the northward of Parrot island, which, by keeping open, you 
 will run in about 2| or 3 fathoms, within two miles of the island. Having 
 steered about half-way up Parrot island, you should stand towards James 
 island, which you will perceive on the starboard side ; and as you proceed 
 for the latter, you will have 2| or 3 fathoms, gradually increasing to 4 or 5 
 as you go on. Keep the points of James and Parrot islands open about a 
 sail's breadth, until you arrive at Seven Fathoms point, and then stand to the 
 eastward, until the shipping before the town come in sight. From Seven 
 Fathoms point keep across the river to the lower part of the tall trees, 
 and stand close to them, till you are abreast of Henshaw's town, when 
 you may cross to the place of anchorage. The town of Henshaw stands 
 below Duke's Town, the latter being the place of trade, and off which
 
 152 
 
 vessels are moored ; it is distant about 24 leagues from the sea, on the 
 S. E. bank of the river. 
 
 At the entrance of the river it is high water, on full and change, at 6 H., 
 and the vertical rise is 6 feet. The breakers here, on the western side, are 
 heard and seen at a considerable distance ; the rocks are large, and some 
 above water ; they must have a good berth. If you arrive here late in 
 the evening, or with ebb-tide, come to an anchor ; but with favourable 
 time and tide, you may enter, by attending to the preceding directions. 
 As the Backasey shore is mud, and the breakers' side sand, on shoaling 
 your water with soft bottom, you edge over to the westward, and with 
 sandy bottom, on the contrary, to the eastward ; and thus, by the lead, 
 you may venture as high as Qua river, in thick weather. From this place 
 you enter between the banks of the Fish Town shore, on the starboard, and 
 Parrot island bank, on the larboard side. The latter now forms a hook to 
 the northward, between which and Parrot island many vessels, beating 
 down, have been entrapped, and this must, of course, be cautiously 
 avoided. It may be further necessary to observe, that the ebb-tide sets 
 with great rapidity, from the rivers on the eastern side, over the western 
 breakers, and for which vessels bound outward should make proper allow- 
 ance. When you are out, stand to the S. E., pai'ticularly with a light 
 wind, to prevent the possibility of drifting on the breakers on the western 
 side. 
 
 SEASONS. The spring commences about November, and the hot months 
 of summer continue until May, during which period the weather is clear 
 and fine, but excessively hot, with occasional tornadoes. From the middle 
 of June, the rains gradually increase, and continue in all July and August, 
 descending, during the latter, in torrents. This period may be considered 
 as the winter, and, during it, the inhabitants are afflicted with colds, fluxes, 
 fevers, &c. In September, October, and November, the country is en- 
 tirely enveloped in exhalations, which the natives term the smokes, and 
 which are exceedingly injurious to the European constitution. In this 
 season, fumigations of tobacco through the vessel, with smoking, have been 
 found efficacious in repelling the pernicious effects of the vapour. It is 
 advisable, for those who intend to remain for a season in the river, to have 
 a housing over the vessel, in order to preserve the health of the crew, as 
 well as the ship's decks and sides, which will otherwise be materially 
 damaged, by exposure to the sun, during so long a period. 
 
 CURRENT. Captain Midgley says, " That the mariner should be on his 
 guard against the effect of the strong easterly current tiiat runs from Terra 
 Formosa to Old Calabar. This current runs with greater or less velocity 
 almost throughout the year, except in or about the Harmattan season, 
 when it occasionally sets to the Westward and W. S. W. Vessels that 
 have advanced much to the eastward of Terra Formosa, and cannot see 
 Foche point before night, should anchor, in order to prevent the effect of 
 the current ; but in squally weather, or the wet season, it may be as well 
 to work to windward, heaving-to occasionally during the night, according 
 to circumstances. Nine or ten fathoms is quite close enough to stand in 
 shore in the night ; when in 6 fathoms, the surf can be very distinctly 
 heard. When once to leeward on this coast, getting up to windward again 
 is attended with much trouble and difficulty. 
 
 " I may here remark, that too much attention cannot be paid to the lead, 
 upon any part of the coast of Africa, as the current frequently sets directly 
 in upon the land ; and from careful observation, upon the windward coast, 
 I can confidently assert, that the thermometer is no guide whatever on 
 approaching the land. In more than one hundred experiments upon the
 
 153 
 
 surface water, I could never detect any sensible difference in the tempera- 
 ture when sailing toward the land from no bottom into 45 and 40, and 
 thence close in snore into 14 or 15 fathoms on the Krou coast. In the 
 dry season there is little difference hereabout in the temperature of the air 
 and water; the former averaging 77 to 81 (in the shade) and the latter 
 74 or 75 of Fahrenheit. 
 
 "The HOMEWARD PASSAGE, through the Bight of Biafra, presents no 
 particular feature to the attention of the navigator, if I may except the 
 strong N. E. currents that almost invariably prevail in it. All homeward 
 bound vessels, that do not intend calling at Fernando Po, should use every 
 possible exertion to pass to the westward of the island, as a good board 
 may be then made to the southward on the starboard tack. Except in the 
 Harmattan or Tornado seasons, no advantage can be derived by standing 
 close in shore, as there are no land winds, and a near approach is, at any 
 time, very dangerous, as the whole of the coast from Camaroens to the 
 Gaboon (except about Corisco) is generally bold-to, and the soundings 
 in no wise to be depended on. Many navigators have remarked, that on 
 standing to the westward between Princes and St. Thomas's, even when 
 making a trifle of northing, the N. E. current has been found to diminish 
 in strength as the vessel makes westing. Even so far to the southward 
 as 3 South there is seldom any easting in the wind before passing the 
 meridian of Greenwich. 
 
 " Vessels bound to the northward should not attempt crossing the 
 equator to the eastward of 20 W. (the meridian of 21| W. is to be 
 preferred) and should then make a North or N. by W. course to get 
 into the N. E. trade-wind, which, having once fairly gained, the home- 
 ward navigation is generally well understood. In this route, after leaving 
 the Guinea current in the Bight of Biafra, the ship will gradually get into 
 the equatorial current as she gets to the southward; and this current 
 frequently runs with considerable velocity. On examining my journals, 
 I find that, by good lunar observations and an excellent chronometer, I 
 have at various times made the following differences to the westward of 
 dead reckoning, in the run from Saint Thomas's to longitude 20 West of 
 Greenwich, between the parallels of 35' N., and 3 S. latitude. In 
 1830, the brig Ann was set 237 miles to the westward, and 78 miles to 
 the northward of account, in 20 days. In October and November, 1831, 
 the barque Severn was set 240 miles to the westward, and 94 miles to 
 the northward of account, in 23 days. In October, 1833, the Freeland 
 was set 246 miles to the westward, and 51 to the northward of account, 
 in 20 days. In August, 1835, the same vessel was set 228 miles to the 
 westward, and 43 to the northward, in 19 days. And, in November and 
 December, 1836, the brig Caledonia was set 370 miles to the westward, 
 and 107 miles to the northward, in 18 days. But it may be observed that, 
 in the latter vessel, I never crossed the equator, but was generally 8 or 10 
 miles to the northward of it until I crossed the meridian of 1 2 W. In the 
 above runs I have occasionally, but rarely, found slight differences to the 
 southward. When to the southward of the equator, abreast of the Bight 
 of Benin, I have always found a current running at least three-quarters of 
 a mile an hour to the northward." 
 
 The Backasey land divides the Rio DEL HEY, OR KING'S RIVER, from 
 that of Calabar, the entrance to which is about 2^ leagues from Backasey 
 gap ; the western point of the river is bluff and rocky, having a reef 
 stretching two miles to the eastward, and. is but little frequented in the 
 channel ; the depth of water is not more than 2, 2^, or 3 fathoms, muddy 
 bottom. The HIGH LAND OP CAMAROENS lies to the eastward of the
 
 154 
 
 Rio del Rey, and has a remarkable high peak 13,000 feet above the sea, 
 which may be seen at a considerable distance. The RUMBY LAND lies 
 to the northward, and extends 9 leagues north and south ; and an 
 insulated mountain, called Qua Mountain, stands 7 leagues N. W. of the 
 Rumby hills. With the peak of Camaroens S. E. f E. (E. S. E. 4 E.), 
 the highest peak of Rumby E. N. E. (N. E. E.) and Qua Mountain 
 N. E. by N. (N. by E. E.) you will be without the bar of del Rey 
 river, 2^ leagues S. S. W. of Backasey point, which is the western 
 extremity of the entrance. 
 
 RIVER BIMBIA. From the Rio del Rey to the river Bimbia, a distance 
 of 16 leagues to the south-eastward, the land is thickly wooded. An 
 insulated sunken rock lies 2^ miles to the southward of the entrance, 
 between which and the coast are 3 to 4 fathoms water. Vessels should 
 cautiously avoid this danger, if bound to the river Camaroens, the entrance 
 of which lies 4 leagues more to the eastward ; the intermediate soundings 
 increasing from 3 to 6 fathoms, as you approach the mouth of the river. 
 The RIVER BIMBIA may be known by an islet, on its western side without 
 the entrance, which extends a mile north and south, distant about half a 
 mile from shore ; there is anchorage, in 16 feet water, on its N. W. side ; 
 the watering place is on the west side of a small cove, about a mile to the 
 north-eastward of the anchorage. The bar of the river Bimbia is two 
 miles broad, extending to the south-eastward of the islet, and has on its 
 shoalest part 13 or 14 feet water; within the bar there is a depth of 4 
 to 7 fathoms. To the westward of Bimbia point are three small islets, 
 in the form of a triangle, affording anchorage between them in 7, 8, or 
 9 fathoms. 
 
 CAMAROENS AND MALIMBA RIVERS. Vessels bound to the river 
 Camaroens, or thereabout, commonly make the N. W. point of the island of 
 Fernando Po, which shall be hereafter described, and shape their course 
 accordingly. From the river Bimbia to that of Camaroens, a distance of 
 11 miles, the coast is low and covered with trees. Cape Camaroens, the 
 north point of the entrance, is also of this description, as well as Point 
 Suellaba, the south extremity ; the two points bear S. by E. f E. and 
 N. by W. | W. (S. E. | S. and N. W. l N.) 7 miles from each other; 
 but the shoal grounds extend half way across the entrance and narrows the 
 channel, which lies on the north side : this spit has a chain of heavy 
 breakers, called the Dogs' Heads, which may be seen a great distance, and 
 require a good berth, as the tide sets over them with rapidity. The north 
 point of Malimba river bears, from the inner extremity of Cape Camaroens, 
 E. ^ S., 9 1 miles, and the south point S. E. by E., 9 5 miles. On entering 
 give the Camaroens' land a berth of half a league, and you will sail in the 
 best water into the estuary of the two rivers, with Malimba point nearly 
 east, until a sandy islet, bearing S. S. W. W., and Point Suellaba are in 
 one : here you will have 4 or 5 fathoms of water in the stream of the two 
 rivers, two miles below a long spit of sand extending from Malimba point 
 4^ miles below that point ; the inner point of Camaroens bearing W. N. 
 W. | W., 5 miles. Greenpatch point, on the east side of Bimbia creek, 
 appearing between that and Mordecai creek, N. by W. f W. Gallows 
 point, on the north side of Camaroens river, N. N. E. ^ E., and Malimba 
 point nearly East. From this roadstead you may proceed up Camaroens 
 river, by bringing the rugged trees on the east of Gallows point to bear 
 E. N. E., and run directly for them, until you get over the flats of 2^ 
 fathoms that form the bar of the river ; and as soon as you deepen water, 
 3 and 3 fathoms, you enter into what is called the Old Hole. 
 
 Eight miles beyond Gallows point is Enguias point, and 3 miles below
 
 155 
 
 it, on the same side, is Mungo creek ; by bringing the point about two 
 ships' length without the bushes at the water's edge, below the creek, you 
 clear the middle grounds of the river, and advance within a musket-shot 
 of the north shore, at the rugged trees near Gallows point. Proceeding 
 upwards, about two miles above those trees, steer more for the mid- 
 channel, keeping the gap up the river about a sail's breadth open ; you 
 may then run up to the road off King George's Town, on the south shore, 
 taking care to give a good berth to Doctor's point, which lies 3 miles 
 below it. The anchorage off George's Town is in 5 fathoms ; the tide 
 flows in the road, on the full and change, at 6 o'clock, and the rise is 
 between 8 and 9 feet. It is high water at Cape Camaroens at half-past 
 5 o'clock. 
 
 The river Borea is distant 16 miles, S. E. (S. S. E.) from Suellaba 
 point, the coast between is low and well wooded, and continues so to the 
 termination of the BIGHT OP PANXAVIA, which ends 38 miles, S. by E. 
 (S. S. E. | E.) from Borea river; this river is only navigable for boats, 
 being rendered impassable by a bar at the entrance. 
 
 RIVER CAMPO. In the bottom of Pannavia bight a vessel may safely 
 anchor near the shore in 4 or 5 fathoms, muddy ground. From Point 
 Garajam, known by its cascade, at the south end of the bight, the coast 
 trends to the Rio Campo, S. S. W. A W. (S. f W.) 13 leagues, this river 
 may be recognised by two mountains to the northward, named, from their 
 similitude, the Saddle and Table hills, the former lying to the northward 
 of the latter. On the south point of the river the sea breaks with much 
 violence on a shallow stone bank that appears at low water. There is 
 good anchorage in 4- to 6 fathoms, 4^ leagues from the river Campo in the 
 cove of Bata. At this place you will see the Seven hills, lying in a row, 
 about 6 leagues inland, the middle one appearing higher than the others. 
 
 The RIVER ST. BENITO lies 16 leagues, S. W. S. (S. by W. f W.) 
 from the Rio Campo ; its entrance is narrow, but it has not less than 3 or 
 4 fathoms which extends 4 miles within it. The Heybern is a high hill 
 which renders the north point remarkable ; the south point is distant two 
 miles from it, and is steep-to ; a reef extends along the coast, having rocks 
 over and under water, to the inward of the river. From the river 
 Benito to Cape St. John, bearing S. W. f W. (S. W. by S.) 10 leagues, 
 the coast is irregular, rocky, and foul, and is distinguished by a high 
 mountain inland, called the Mitre hill. As you approach about half way 
 to the cape, the coast, from being low and woody, is rocky, and the cape 
 itself is surrounded by a ridge of rocks, and has a small stony bank of 7 or 
 8 fathoms lying 2 or 3 miles from it. 
 
 CORISCO BAY. The N. W. point of Corsico bay bears S. by E. | E. 
 (S. E. | S.) one league and a half from Cape St. John, nearly midway 
 oetween this point and Cape Esterias which is 10 leagues; to the south 
 lies Corisco, or Thunderbolt island, which is more than 3 miles long and 
 2 miles broad. It is a low island overgrown with high trees, that seem to 
 stand in the water ; about a mile from its S. W. side is a small islet, 
 named Laval, encompassed with a reef; from the S. E. end of Corisco 
 extends a narrow reef, half a league to the eastward, and a shelf also 
 extends from the northern shore. The north point of Corisco bay assumes 
 a semicircular form, 4 leagues in breadth, and into the N. E. side falls the 
 river Mooney, or Rio de Angra ; this river is a mile wide, and at a distance 
 of 5 miles from the entrance lie a cluster of islets, rocks, and shoals, called 
 the Elobey, or Mosquito isles. In the direct course between the depths are 
 from 6 to 5, 4| to 3 fathoms, but more to the south are several shoal 
 spots of 2 and 2 fathoms ; the least depth on the bar is 13 feet.
 
 156 
 
 CORISCO BAY trends nearly due south from the river Mooney, 7 leagues, 
 to the river Moondah, which is 5 miles in breadth ; the water is shoal at 
 the distance of 3 miles from the coast in this space. At the entrance of 
 the Moondah are 3 to 5 fathoms. The entrance bears S. ^ E. (S. S. E.) 
 28 miles from the N. W. point of the bay ; and from the western point of 
 the river to Cape Esterias, the coast trends W. | N. (W. S. W. ^ W.) 
 4 leagues. Little CORISCO ISLAND bears S. by E. f E. (S. E. ^ S.) 5 miles 
 from the S. W. point of Corisco, and is surrounded by several shoals, as 
 well as the flat that stands a league and a half to the S. W. Between 
 Little Corisco and Cape Esterias there is a channel of 5 and 6 fathoms, 
 but the water shoalens half-way over from the south shore, as the coast 
 about the cape is foul and rocky ; but from hence to Point Clara, at the 
 entrance of the river Gaboon, it is in general bold, distinguished by trees, 
 and, at half a league distance, varies in depth from 7 to 6 and 5 fathoms. 
 
 RIVER GABOON. Point Clara is distant 7 miles S. by W. | W. 
 (S. 5 E.) from Cape Esterias; and although the coast between is pretty 
 clear, yet about the point itself are several sunken rocks. On the south 
 side of the river is Sandy point, which bears IS. f W. (S. by E.) 10 miles 
 from that of Clara. King Qua Bens Town stands on the eastern shore, 
 facing the sea, S. by E. f E. (S. E. ^ E.) 3 leagues from Point Clara ; and 
 King Glass Town stands 3 miles S. by E. | E. (S. E. f S.; from the 
 former. About a league N. W. of Sandy point are several shoal spots, 
 which vessels coming from that side must avoid. Coming from the north- 
 ward, you may approach within half a league of Point Clara, making al- 
 lowance for the stream of the river, which sets strongly on that side ; the 
 bottom, as you approach, is very irregular and rocky, as you will at times 
 have 15 or 16 fathoms, and at the next cast have only 5 or 6 fathoms. 
 
 The course in is S. by E. ^ E. (S. E. f S.) 5 leagues, towards Oweendo or 
 Red point, which is S. by E. (S. S. E. f E.) 6 miles from Kin Glass Town. 
 Two miles south-eastward of Red point is Darnbee or King's island ; and 
 
 miles south-westward of this is Parrot or Embene island, between 
 which are 6 and 7 fathoms. 
 
 Round Corner point is 4 miles S. W. by W. W. (S. W. S.) from 
 Sandy point, and is distinguished on each side by elevated land, which 
 serve as good marks for the Gaboon. Vessels coming from the southward 
 should give this point a good berth, and steer towards Point Clara, in order 
 to avoid the shoals lying to the N. W. of Sandy point. There is anchorage 
 in 5 to 6 fathoms a mile from the shore, anywhere between Cape Clara 
 and King Glass Town. In the BIGHT OF BIAFRA, from June to October, 
 the winds often vary much from S. S. W. to S. S. E., in the course of the 
 day, so as to render it advisable for vessels beating to the southward, to 
 tack accordingly, and take every advantage of a slant : it may likewise be 
 well to stand in for the shore after midnight, for the benefit of the land- 
 wind, which sets in toward the early part of the morning. The current 
 commonly runs to the northward, about 18 miles in the 24 hours, but with 
 the change of the moon it sometimes varies to the southward. 
 
 VESSELS FROM CALABAR RIVER TO SIERRA LEONE are sometimes pre- 
 vented, by contrary winds, from proceeding by the N. W. of Fernando 
 Po, and in that case they may pass to the eastward of that island, and avail 
 themselves of a strong current setting to the southward ; they may pass 
 either to the eastward or northward of Prince's island, as the winds per- 
 mit. To the westward of this island, the current generally sets strong to 
 the N. E., at the rate of a knot and a half. Having arrived to the south- 
 ward of Prince's island, if the ship will lie no higher than W. N. W., tack 
 immediately, and endeavour to cross the equator, by which you will keep
 
 157 
 
 out of the strong N. E. or Guinea current, that sets towards the Bights of 
 Benin and Biafra. 
 
 Having crossed the line, you are nearly out of the easterly current, and 
 in about the parallel of 1 S. will find it setting to the westward, one mile 
 an hour. In May and June, when the sun has a high declination, the trade- 
 wind is far to the southward, and you will not gain the regular breeze 
 nearer than 3 S., when it commences from S. by W. As you make 
 westing the wind will be found to haul more to the southward and east- 
 ward, and the current increases to the rate of a knot and a half in an hour, 
 until you arrive as far as 15 "W. : do not get to the eastward of this 
 meridian until you reach the parallel of 8^ N., when you may steer direct 
 for the cape, your soundings varying from 20 to 12 fathoms, as you ap- 
 proach within 6 or 7 leagues of it. 
 
 SECTION V. 
 
 THE ISLANDS OF FERNANDO PO, PRINCE'S, 
 ST. THOMAS', AND ANNO BON. 
 
 FERNANDO PO. This island is about 12 leagues in length, from north 
 to south, between the parallels of 3 12' 30" and 3 47' N., and 6 leagues 
 in breadth ; it is uncommonly high, and may be distinguished at the dis- 
 tance of 20 to 25 leagues. An English settlement was established here in 
 1827, which, in honour of his Royal Highness the Duke of Clarence, was 
 named after him, and which it appears, from recent information, is in a 
 prosperous condition, though by some it is considered doubtful whether it 
 may be attended with any ultimate advantage. It has been stated in for- 
 mer directions, that the island of Fernando Po made in three hummocks ; 
 but this mistake has been occasioned by the high land of Camaroens, which 
 may be taken for the island at a distance. On coming from the N. W., it 
 makes in two high peaks, the eastern one being the highest, and termi- 
 nating in a sharp point; the westernmost is round in the top, sloping 
 gradually to the water's edge. 
 
 GEORGE BAY is on the west side of the island, situate about 7 leagues 
 to the S. W. of the N. W. point, between Point Kelly on the N. E. and 
 Charles Folly on the S. W., 7 miles distant from each other ; the bay is of 
 a semicircular form, much exposed to the N. W., and the depth decreases 
 from 30 to 20 and 10 fathoms. Goat and Kid islands lie about half a 
 league to the northward of Point Kelly, and are encompassed with several 
 rocks, but-the ground on the S. E. is clear, and affords convenient shelter. 
 Vessels from Bonny river, bound to George bay, should make the west 
 end of the island, as a strong current sets to E. N. E., that with baffling 
 winds may take you several days to get up, if you once get to leeward. 
 In making the island, you will perceive its appearance as we have already 
 stated ; but should you fall to leeward, so as to bring the eastern peak to 
 bear East, or E. by S., you must tack, and close in with the shore, giving 
 it a berth of one or two miles, until you get in sight of Goat island,* the 
 soundings gradually diminishing to 16 or 15 fathoms. Anchor with the 
 
 * At 5 miles to the northward, and 2 miles from shore, nearly on the meridian of Goat 
 island, is a reef, about one mile in extent, true North and South, and steep-to.
 
 158 
 
 east peak bearing E. ^ N., Goat island N. by E. or touching Point Kelly, 
 the N. E. point of the bay, and Charles Folly W. by N. \ N., three- 
 quarters of a mile from shore. Water and wood may be had here in 
 abundance, and fish is also plentiful and various. 
 
 MAIDSTONE BAY AND CLARENCE COVE. Maidstone (or N. W.) bay lies 
 within the N. W. point, and is a shallow bay, 2^ miles in extent ; it is 
 bounded on the eastern side by a tongue of land now called Point William, 
 between which and Point Adelaide, distant half a mile S. W. by W. ^ W., 
 is CLARENCE COVE : this is a small bay of a semicircular shape, having 
 soundings in the middle from 14 to 12 fathoms. Cockburn cove lies on the 
 west of Point Adelaide, and is not so large as that of Clarence. Adelaide 
 islets lie in a cluster, about one-tenth of a mile to the northward of the 
 point, being divided from it by a passage of 9 and 10 fathoms; a bank ex- 
 tends some distance from the islets, but it has not less than 3 or 3| fathoms ; 
 a shoal also extends to the westward of Point Williams ; and on the east 
 side of this point is Goderich bay, not more than three-quarters of a mile 
 in extent, indented by several small coves, and in which are some rivulets, 
 two of which are named Hay brook and Horton brook. It is high water, 
 at the full and change, at Clarence town, at 4 hours ; rise 7 feet. 
 
 REMARKS OP COMMANDER FISHBURNE, H. M. STEAM- VESSEL ALBAN, 
 3rd December, 1841. "The anchorage of Clarence cove, the principal an- 
 chorage of Fernando Po, situated on the north side of the island, is very 
 good, though the depth is from 10 to 15 fathoms; indeed, it is so abun- 
 dantly sheltered, that considerable facility is afforded to vessels loading or 
 unloading, while the perfect tranquility and smoothness of the water, and 
 rise of 7 feet, admit of vessels being beached for repairs, without danger. 
 At present, a fire is kept by the Company's servants during the early part 
 of the night, and being at the height of 100 feet above the level of the sea, 
 it may be seen at a considerable distance. By bringing this on a S. by E. 
 (true) bearing, and Point William one mile or a mile and a half distant, 
 fair anchorage and a good position for entering will be found. It must be 
 borne in mind, that the current runs to the East and N. E. generally, one 
 mile to a mile and a half per hour ; and due allowance must be made for 
 this, in steering either for the settlement by day, or the light by night, de- 
 pending on the preceding winds. Change in the bearings would give notice 
 of this, and they should be attended to strictly. 
 
 " The water is good, and may be obtained in any quantity without diffi- 
 culty. Wood is plentiful, and of very superior quality, quite equal to the 
 mangrove, 340 inches per horse-power, per hour, being sufficient to keep 
 steam with our engines working expansively at half-stroke, yet still an 
 efficient fuel. We paid six shillings and sixpence for 100 pieces, containing 
 about 33 cubic feet ; but were a contract entered into for a large quantity, 
 it might be obtained at a much more reasonable price. The landing-place 
 is convenient at a wooden pier, which has been built at the expense of the 
 West African Company, and extending out to a depth of water that admits 
 of vessels of 7 or 8 feet draught to go alongside. The ascent to the plateau, 
 upon which the town stands, being about 100 feet, and the road ill made, 
 occasions much difficulty in the transfer of goods to the town, but this ob- 
 jection might be materially removed, and without much expense. There 
 is a strip of land, and on either side of the landing-place, (from which the 
 cliffs rise nearly perpendicular) now partly occupied by miserable coal and 
 store sheds, but of sufficient width, and generally adapted for good store- 
 room." Nautical Magazine for 1843, page 83. 
 
 The natives of Fernando Po were not considered of a friendly nature, 
 but we hope the new settlement will prevent mariners experiencing any
 
 159 
 
 inconvenience from this trait of character, and be the means of subduing 
 the angry disposition which was said to exist among them. 
 
 PRINCE'S ISLAND. This is an irregular-shaped island, 10 miles in 
 extent from north to south, and 5 miles wide. Should the current, on ap- 
 proaching the island, be found running to the N. E., it will be best to make 
 it on the south side, or you may be swept to leeward, and experience some 
 difficulty in making the harbour ; but it will be better to make it on the 
 north side, with a south-westerly current. Vessels approaching this side 
 of the island will see a high peak towards the S. W. end, appearing like a 
 sentry-box ; and, more to the eastward, a remarkable round-topped hill, 
 of a sugar-loaf shape, called the Parrot's Bill. In approaching the south 
 side, there is a high white rock or islet, lying half a league from the south 
 point, called the Dutchman's Cap, and about 9 miles south-westward of 
 this are the rocks above water, called the Brothers. 
 
 PORT ST. ANTONIO lies on the N. E. side of the island, the entrance to 
 which is distant 85 miles from the Dutchman's Cap. The anchorage is 
 clear, and the depth of water regular from 10 to 4 fathoms. It is exposed 
 to tornadoes, but as the entrance is narrow, accidents rarely occur ; it is, 
 however, necessary for vessels to be well secured, for they blow directly in. 
 The entrance is defended by two small forts, and is of easy access ; in going 
 in you may stand to the south shore in 6 fathoms, and to the north shore, 
 it being steep-to, in 10 fathoms. There is a coral reef of 5 fathoms, a 
 mile and a half from the fort on the south side ; about a cable's length 
 without that, are 9 and 8 fathoms, soft mud, and good holding ground, to 
 one or two miles further in. Ships should moor with an open hause to the 
 sea, in order to be prepared for the tornadoes. The town stands at the 
 bottom of the harbour. 
 
 On arrival, the vessel must be reported to the governor, who sends 
 custom-house officers on board, at the ship's expense ; and on quitting the 
 harbour, forty dollars are exacted for port-dues and anchorage ; in addition 
 to which, if coming to trade, the customs demand forty more. 
 
 AOULHAS, OE WEST BAY, lies about half-way down on the western side 
 of Prince's island. It is open two miles in extent from N. E. to S. W., 
 shoaling in depth from 20 to 4 fathoms. Some small rocks under water 
 extend from its south point. The best situation to anchor in this bay, is 
 with its west point bearing W. N. W., distant three-quarters of a mile, 
 the north point N. E. by E., and a peak on the island S. E. by E. | E. 
 There are several good streams of water on the south side of the bay. 
 This place is secure from troverdoes, though open to N. W. winds, but the 
 latter seldom occur. 
 
 In the vicinity of Prince's island, the winds are generally between the 
 south and west ; in sailing, therefore, out of the harbour, or port St. An- 
 tonio, with a land-wind, endeavour to get under way with this breeze, 
 keeping well over towards the south shore, for, on advancing outward, the 
 wind will be found to draw gradually to the southward, which, with the 
 swell, may set you over to the north side, near the Diamond rocks.. If 
 bound to the westward, you need not beat to the southward of St. Thomas ; 
 but if to windward of Prince's island, and the wind admits of your making 
 westing without northing, keep on the larboard tack, and so proceed as to 
 take advantage of the equatorial current. 
 
 About Prince's island are several rivulets of excellent water, but it does 
 not equal St. Thomas, for the goodness and abundance of its provisions. 
 
 ST. THOMAS. This island bears about S. W. by W. (S. W. by S.) 
 22 leagues from Prince's island. It is 8 leagues in extent from north to 
 south, of an oval form, with the south point nearly on the equator ; it is
 
 160 
 
 high, conical, and well wooded ; its highest peak is usually covered with a 
 cloud, and appears like smoke. Vessels from the windward and Gold 
 coasts, bound to St. Thomas, must choose the time of the ventanias, or 
 hard breezes, that blow from April to September, making proper allowance 
 for the currents. 
 
 MAN-OP-WAR BAY, on the N. E. side of St. Thomas' island, is con- 
 sidered a safer anchorage than that of St. Anna de Chaves, to the south- 
 eastward. Vessels coming in along the north end of St. Thomas, will 
 perceive the land mountainous and very high ; when abreast of the island, 
 it sometimes seems divided in two, and it will then be proper to keep to 
 the E. by S. till you are past Cabrita island, which separates one anchorage 
 from the other. Man-of-War Bay is a safe place for small vessels, but 
 large vessels are obliged to lie out in the open road, in 10 to 18 fathoms, 
 which is a safe place, except during the season of the tornadoes, as they 
 prevail from N. E. directly upon the shore. Anchor in the bay, with 
 Cabrita island (which makes like a saddle) bearing S. E. ^ S. ; Misericordia 
 chapel, seated on a hill, on with a black rock on the shore, S. by W. ; and 
 the white mansion, called Fernandilla house, S. W. W. The ground in 
 this bay is good, and the water in general smooth, except during the season 
 before mentioned ; the soundings in are irregular, from 30 to 6 fathoms, 
 which latter depth is about one mile from shore. From the anchorage 
 the watering-place is about a quarter of a mile to the eastward, and is 
 easily obtained. 
 
 ST. ANNA DE CHAVES BAY, OR ROADSTEAD, is defended by a stone fort, 
 standing at its southern entrance. In sailing to this place you will find it 
 best and most convenient to stretch round the south part of the island, for 
 then you will be favoured by both wind and current, which latter sets 
 strongly to the northward ; and the shore, to the southward of the fort, 
 may be approached with greater safety than that to the northward, though 
 not within the distance of one mile and a half, until you get the fort to bear 
 W. by N. About two miles to the eastward of the town lies a shoal of 
 white sand, with only 2^ fathoms over it, on which the Chesterfield struck 
 in 1781. This ship went round the northern part of the island, obtaining 
 no ground at 60 and 50 fathoms, until the rocks were seen alongside of the 
 vessel; soon after this she sounded in 16 fathoms, and suddenly grounded. 
 When aground, the fort bore W. by S., Cabrita island N. W,, and the 
 eastern point of the island S. by W"., distant from shore about 4 or 5 miles, 
 and from Cabrita nearly 3 miles. Being hove off this shoal, she steered 
 for the road, bringing the fort to bear from W. to W. by S., anchoring in 
 6 fathoms, sand, shells, and coral rock, the fort bearing W. S. W., Cabrita 
 island N. by W. | W., south end of St. Thomas S. ^ W., and its northern- 
 most point N. W. ^ W., about two miles distant from the shore. 
 
 The Tartar anchored in 5^ fathoms, the fort bearing S. W. by W. only 
 one mile from shore ; the Blandford much further out, and the Grampus 
 found good anchorage in 6 fathoms, the fort bearing West, and Cabrita 
 island N. N. E. It thus appears that vessels coming in from the northward, 
 must not depend upon the lead, because, from no ground a ship may have 
 12 fathoms, and be aground before they can obtain another cast of the lead. 
 
 ROLAS ISLAND lies about two miles off the S. W. end of St. 
 Thomas, the channel between lying directly under the equator, and af- 
 fording safe anchorage for the largest vessels. It must be entered from the 
 eastward, as a bank extends from the north shore of the island. About 
 5 miles east from Rolas island lie a cluster of high rocks, appearing from 
 the northward like ships under full sail, called the Seven Stones, or Brothers, 
 and sometimes mistaken for part of the island itself.
 
 161 
 
 Vessels from the Northward, and bound to St. Anna de CJiaves Bay, 
 should make St. Anna's isle, or Postillion Cap, which lies off the eastern 
 coast ; and when this comes in sight, you will perceive a small black fort 
 in ruins, on the shore towards the S. W. : steer for the latter, until St. 
 Anna isle comes in a line with the low green point, to the southward 
 of the black fort ; and with this mark on, bring the new fort or castle, on 
 the S. E. point of the bay, to bear W. S. W. : here you will have 6 or 7 
 fathoms, sandy bottom, distant a mile and a half from the castle, with Ca- 
 brita island bearing N. by W. ^ W. Ships should not approach Cabrita 
 nearer than to bring the new fort to bear S. TV"., for beyond that bearing 
 the water is shallow, full of Coral branches, the depth not more than 10 or 
 12 feet. 
 
 ANNO BON is a high circular island, about 8 leagues in circumference, 
 situated about a degree and a half to the southward of the equator, in the 
 meridian of 5 45' E. The anchorage is on the N. E. side, abreast of the 
 town, in 7 to 16 fathoms, white sandy bottom, which holds well. If you 
 moor near the shore, the mark is a round islet, of a sugar-loaf form, be- 
 tween which and the land there is a fair channel : here you will perceive 
 seven rocks above water lying near the shore. Anno Bon is considered 
 healthy, and affords abundance of fruit, vegetables, and other provisions, all 
 of which may be had cheap in barter. There is a rivulet of good water at 
 the south end of the island, but it is rendered somewhat difficult of access. 
 
 ANCHORAGE OF ANNO BON. Extract from the Nautical Magazine for 
 1843, page 89. Commander W. B. Oliver says, " Open the low rocky 
 point, to the westward of Pyramid rock, with the east end of the church, 
 (the eastern building detached from the village) ; you may then, by keeping 
 Pyramid rock on with a high rock over it, resembling a fort, steer in on 
 that line, and carry sandy bottom from 19 to 3| fathoms, within two cables' 
 length of the beach, when Islet point will bear W. ^ N., and Pyramid 
 rock S. E. by S., and Turtle island S. E. by E." 
 
 The Vasittart anchored in May, 1821, at Anno Bon, in 11| fathoms, 
 rocky bottom, with a conspicuous peak in the centre of the island bearing 
 W. | S., off shore about three-quarters of a mile. Ships touching here 
 should keep the lead going, the soundings being very irregular, with great 
 overfalls from 19 to 11 fathoms, then 3| fathoms. Although the vessel 
 here stated lay in 11^ fathoms, a small anchor was necessary to steady her, 
 and keep the bower anchor clear ; for half a cable's length in shore there 
 was only a quarter less 3 fathoms, rocks. 
 
 NAUTICAL OBSERVATIONS ON A VOYAGE TO THE GOLD COAST. BY 
 CAPTAIN MIDGLEY. "The extensive tract of sea between the meridian of 
 14 W. and 9 E., and the parallel of 9 N. and 3 S., is yet imperfectly 
 known by the majority of navigators ; being bordered by a range of coast, 
 in a great measure peopled by an uncivilized and semi-barbarous race, who 
 require peculiar address and management in the method of dealing with 
 them, for the produce of their country. I shall suppose that a vessel 
 bound to this coast has got out of the channel, or, at least, clear of Tuskar 
 and the Smalls, in which case the master's mind will be comparatively at 
 ease, to what it was when he had less sea-room in the narrows of the 
 channel. But whilst the ship is in soundings, she will be more or less ex- 
 posed to a Northerly or N. N. E. indraught of tide or current, which sets 
 nine hours out of every twelve, even at a considerable distance to the west- 
 ward of Scilly, and this indraught is liable to be augmented or retarded 
 by the direction and force of the wind. 
 
 The stream, called RenneUs Current, sometimes sets strongly to the 
 N. N. \V. and N. W. about the edge of channel soundings, at other times 
 
 x
 
 162 
 
 very weak, and there is occasionally a strong set to the eastward. But it 
 is highly probable that RennelTs current will be found to prevail for some 
 days after a long series of westerly gales, as these winds materially contri- 
 bute to accelerate the velocity of the currents setting into the Bay of 
 Biscay, and by keeping up the level of the water upon the iron-bound pre- 
 cipitous shore of the bay itself, forces that water to find an egress out of 
 the bay to the northward and westward ; and it is not improbable that 
 the ebb-tide of the English Channel may in some measure contribute to 
 its westerly tendency. 
 
 To the southward of the 48th parallel, it is very probable that there will 
 be found a S. E. current, the velocity of which will gradually increase, un- 
 til the 40th or 38th parallel is attained, where I have generally found this 
 current to get weaker, and vary more to the eastward. On the llth of 
 February, 1833, I threw a bottle overboard, containing the vessel's position 
 in latitude 41 50' N., and longitude by chronometer 14 23' W., and this 
 bottle was picked up in the entrance of the harbour of Vigo, on the 1st of 
 March following ; it had consequently traversed 80 leagues in a true E.^N. 
 direction, or about 14 miles per day. 
 
 I would strongly advise all mariners bound to the southward, to pass to 
 the westward of Madeira, if possible, as it may prevent their being en- 
 tangled with the Canary islands. 
 
 On the 29th of December, 1 840, the ship " John Campbell" was in lati- 
 tude 33 N., and longitude 19 24' W., about 2 to the westward of Ma- 
 deira ; and with a light wind from S. S. E., the ship, about 2 p. M., got 
 suddenly amongst some rollers. At first these rollers did not appear 
 alarming, as the vessel, on her gradual approach to them, seemed to be only 
 experiencing a gradual rising sea. But the rollers soon attained a consider- 
 able height, and set in regular ridges from the N. W. quarter, toppling in 
 many places like a bore, and causing the vessel to labour and roll heavily 
 to windward. In the evening there was an increasing breeze from the 
 S. E., with cloudy overcast weather, and much vivid lightning in the N. W. 
 quarter. As the weather had been moderate for several days before, I can 
 scarcely think these rollers could have been caused by wind, as they were 
 very unlike the sea that marks the termination of gales of wind ; they 
 came in regular ridges, and sometimes topped in a considerable breaker. 
 The ship was suddenly among them, sailed for 21 miles through them ; 
 the rollers rapidly increased, and as rapidly subsided. The sea was of a 
 deep dark blue colour. No bottom at 70 fathoms ; barometer steady at 
 30 20', and the temperature of the air 64, and of the water 57 of 
 Fahrenheit thermometer. 
 
 After much consideration of the subject, I must candidly confess my in- 
 ability to assign any just cause or reason for this sudden, and to me un- 
 accountable undulation of the surface water ; but, perhaps, some such 
 occurrences may have an influence in contributing to the sudden rise of the 
 water, which is occasionally experienced at Assension, and, I believe, also 
 at some other elevated islands. 
 
 It was on the same passage out, and on the 3rd of January, 1841, that 
 I passed through many clusters of the Gulf, or Fitcus Natans weed, all of 
 which was very much decayed. The ship was then in latitude 28 8' N., 
 and longitude by time-keepers 21 46' W. a position, I believe, much to 
 the eastward of the generally assigned eastern limits of the Sargasso sea, 
 or portion of the North Atlantic, in which this weed is generally found. 
 But as I shall presently have occasion to revert again to this subject, I will 
 proceed to notice the winds and currents usually found in the neighbour- 
 hood of the west coast cf Africa.
 
 163 
 
 Among the Canary islands, and in their vicinity, the N. N. E. and N. E. 
 winds mostly prevail ; and the general set of the currents between Madeira 
 and these islands has a Southerly and S. S. E. tendency. Indeed, the whole 
 surface of the ocean, from the 48th to the 30th parallel, has a general ten- 
 dency to flow to the Eastward and S. E. quarter ; and the mariner will do 
 well to guard against its treacherous and too often fatal influence. 
 
 Outward-bound African vessels have of late, very generally and very 
 properly, run through the passage to the eastward of the Cape de Verd 
 isles, for by so doing they avoid a tract of sea, which is notoriously subject 
 to violent squalls, calms, and heavy rain. Vessels make this run in the 
 general limits of the N. E. trade-wind, and I have myself invariably found 
 the current setting to the southward. I am aware that 1 have the high 
 authority of Mr. Finlayson, of the Royal Navy, and of Commander Wilkes, 
 of the United States Exploring Expedition, against me in this assertion, 
 both of these officers having found currents in this route setting to the N. E. 
 I must add, that I have not tried the current by any actual experiments, 
 other than the usual method of estimating it, by the difference found by an 
 attentive dead reckoning and actual observation ; and in this case, it is of 
 course very possible that errors creep into the reckoning, by inattention to 
 the steerage, particularly in the night, as well as by an improper allowance 
 for the magnetic variation, an inaccurate log-line, and other causes. 
 
 Vessels bound to the coast of Africa, in the wet season, or between May 
 and September inclusive, need not be too anxious to make easting, for they 
 will lose the N. E. trade-wind very soon after passing the parallel of St. 
 Jago, and after a short interval of calm, will fall in with the variable S. W. 
 winds, and their usual accompaniments of squalls, heavy rain, and close 
 damp unsettled weather. In proportion as the vessel advances to the 
 southward, she will find more settled weather, and probably be influenced 
 by a current to the S. E. : this is a branch of the great Guinea current, 
 which I shall presently attempt to describe. The track I have just noticed 
 is perhaps the most luminous part of the Atlantic Ocean. In the wet 
 season, vessels should give St. Anne's shoals a large berth to the eastward, 
 as the current, as well as the sea, runs with great velocity into the bight of 
 Cape Mount ; and vessels which may unfortunately happen to fall in with 
 the land to the northward of Sinou, in the wet season, will find consider- 
 able difficulty in working to the southward. 
 
 The first influence of the Guinea current will be found in about 9 30' 
 N., and inshore of the 22nd meridian, and gradually verges from thence 
 in a S. S. E. and S. E. direction, running with considerable velocity in a 
 parallel direction to the trend of the land, and at least 50 leagues from it. 
 On approaching the land, the current will be found to increase in velocity, 
 and requires constant and unremitting vigilence to prevent the vessel run- 
 ning to leeward of her destination. On the 18th of January, 1841, in 
 latitude 6 48' N., and longitude 14 58' W., whilst in the influence of the 
 Guinea current setting true S. E. by E., at the rate of 30 miles in the 24 
 hours, at daylight in the morning, during a perfect calm, I was surprised 
 to see the vessel surrounded by sprigs of the Sargasso weed, and was still 
 more surprised at its fresh and luxuriant appearance. One of the many 
 sprigs brought on board contained two very lively little crabs, and I ob- 
 served no marks of decay about any of the weed. I ordered a cast of the 
 deep-sea lead, but found no bottom, at very nearly 100 fathoms. Sir Hans 
 Sloane, in his History of Jamaica, says, that this weed has been seen upon 
 the coast of Africa ; but I am disposed, notwithstanding, to think that it is 
 of rare occurrence, as I had four very intelligent natives of the Krou coast 
 of Africa on board, and they unanimously declared that they had never
 
 164 
 
 seen any Sargasso weed, or indeed any other weed similar to it, attached 
 to any of the rocks, or floating upon the surface of the water near the 
 coast. 
 
 From the shoal of St. Anne (which by the bye requires the exercise of 
 considerable judgment and caution) the Guinea current has an easterly 
 and E. N. E. tendency towards the bight or bay of Cape Mount ; to the 
 southward of this, it sets about E. S. E. along the shore ; and from Grand 
 Sestros to Cape Palmas, it runs with a velocity of more than two miles an 
 hour. It is this current which has set several vessels upon Coley's rock, 
 the Cape shoal, and Rock Town reef, in the neighbourhood of Cape Palmas; 
 and these dangers can only be avoided, in the night, by the constant and 
 unremitting use of the lead ; for by keeping in 38 fathoms, or any greater 
 depth of water, the vessel will drift in a fair way round the cape, and be 
 3 miles clear to the southward of these dangerous reefs. On the meridian 
 of Cape Palmas, the mean breadth of the easterly stream of current is 
 fully 45 leagues, and it keeps this breadth throughout the whole of its 
 easterly course, until it is lost in the Bight of Biafra. The inshore branch 
 of this great stream diverges to the northward and eastward at Cape St. 
 Paul, and fills up the Bight of Benin, from whence it runs with increased 
 velocity round the land of Formosa, and over the great bank of soundings, 
 which extends from the mouth of the Nun River to the high land of Ca- 
 meroons. Between the meridians of 8| "W. and nearly 9^ E., a distance 
 of more than 1000 miles, we are presented with the somewhat singular 
 anomaly of two mighty streams of water, silently, yet certainly pursuing 
 their course parallel to each other, but in directions diametrically opposite. 
 I of course here allude to the equatorial current, which sets to the west- 
 ward, as I shall hereafter show, with considerable velocity. The mean 
 northern boundary of the equatorial current is generally found about the 
 equator, or about 110 miles from the southern border of the opposite 
 stream. In the tract of sea between these streams the current is variable, 
 but has a general tendency to run to the northward, particularly abreast of 
 the Bight of Benin. 
 
 It is a well-known fact, that during the wet season, or from May to Oc- 
 tober, the Guinea current almost invariably runs to the eastward with in- 
 creased velocity. I can rationally account for its ingress and egress in the 
 Bight of Benin ; but the whole of this immense body of water appears to 
 be confined in the Bight of Biafra, or at least it has no known outlet, for 
 throughout the whole of the bight, to the northward of Prince's island, the 
 current, in the wet season, almost invariably sets to the N. E. and E. N. E. 
 with such force, that vessels are frequently fourteen days in beating up 
 from Bonny to Prince's island, a distance of only 60 leagues. I am aware 
 that Mr. Finlayson has asserted, that a strong current runs to the south- 
 ward out of the Rio del Rey ; but this current is not found to the south- 
 ward of Fernando Po. On the contrary, the current upon the east coast 
 of the Bight of Biafra generally runs strong to the northward, and I have 
 'been three days, in tolerably smart vessels, and with a constant steady 
 breeze, in weathering the island. The only advantage I ever found in 
 beating up through the eastern passage, was derived from the smoothness 
 of the water, and not from a southerly current. How then do the accu- 
 mulated waters of the Bight of Biafra escape ? Is there an undertow, or 
 is it the great reservoir which supplies the tides of the 23 large rivers in 
 the bights, most of which are so many mouths of the Niger ? 
 
 The bank of soundings along the Krou coast, from Liberia to Cape 
 Palmas, extends only 7 or 8 leagues from the land ; and on its extreme 
 outer edge, which is very abrupt, there is a depth of 55 to 62 fathoms,
 
 165 
 
 generally sandy bottom, or sand and ooze. At only one mile to the west- 
 ward of this depth there is no bottom at 90 fathoms, and the water con- 
 tinues of the deep blue oceanic colour, even in 15 fathoms. On this part 
 of the coast no vessel should shoal her water under 32 fathoms in the night, 
 and in the neighbourhood of Cape Palmas, as before observed, not less than 
 38 fathoms. In this depth of water the early part of the day will be 
 soon surrounded by canoes. A fire on the beach is a signal that the na- 
 tives are desirous of trading. The natives of this part of the coast are of 
 mild and gentle demeanour, and any number of them may be allowed to 
 come on board the vessel, without the slightest reservation, for they have 
 no spirits in their possession to sell to the crew. 
 
 The Kroumen are in many respects an extraordinary race of people ; 
 and Capt. Adams has justly remarked, that the tower of Babel might 
 have been built upon the western shores of Africa, as a different language 
 is spoken at every ten or twelve miles, though these different languages are 
 generally understood by the natives all along the coast. The Kroumen 
 have a singular custom peculiar to themselves, which is a system of ap- 
 prenticeship. A number of young men will attach themselves for a certain 
 period to a headman : this headman has made one or more voyages to 
 leeward, to the Oil rivers, before he can obtain a name, or be allowed to 
 build a house, or to trade ; and it is the duty of this headman to ship the 
 boys off for the Oil rivers on board of any vessel he can, and for this ser- 
 vice the headman is entitled to the one month's advance always paid by 
 the ship ; he is also entitled to a certain portion of the boy's wages on his 
 return. When the boy has made two or three voyages, and speaks En- 
 glish fluently, he becomes a headman himself. The language of the Krou- 
 men is principally a combination of vowels, and from the peculiar nasal 
 pronunciation can rarely be acquired by Europeans. The Krouman is 
 generally found faithful in a strange country, but must not be trusted in 
 his own. 
 
 In proportion as the vessel advances to the eastward, the natives will be 
 found more barbarous, and consequently more treacherous ; and about 
 Drewin and St. Andrew's they were formerly a fierce, unruly, and san- 
 guinary race, notorious for their treachery, and repeated attacks upon 
 vessels. I have -had no intercourse with these people for the last seven or 
 eight years, but am assured that their condition and manners are very 
 much improved, and that small vessels may now trade there for ivory and 
 palm oil in perfect safety, by adopting only common precautions. The St. 
 Andrew's people have been repeatedly fired upon by the crews of different 
 vessels, for various acts of theft and treachery ; and it was formerly very 
 unsafe to allow more than five or six of them on deck at once, as they 
 generally come on board armed with a long knife, in the use of which they 
 were very dexterous. Upon one occasion, I very suddenly dispersed a 
 multitude of them off the deck, upon the very point of open warfare, by 
 merely throwing about a dozen heads of leaf tobacco over the side, for they 
 all immediately jumped overboard after it. Upon another occasion, the 
 plentiful distribution of boiling water amongst a crowd of them proved 
 quite as efficacious. On board a French barque, where two of the crew 
 had been wounded by the knives of the natives, they were beaten off with 
 empty glass bottles, a large quantity of which happened to be on deck at 
 the time for trading with. Harsh as these measures may appear, they 
 are surely more humane than the use of cutlasses and muskets. 
 
 The natives of Cape Lahou, in many respects, resemble the Kroumen 
 in their manners and disposition, and, like them, are almost amphibious. 
 Cape Lahou may he considered the western extremity of civilization, on
 
 166 
 
 this part of the coast of Africa, for the Gold coast may be here said to 
 commence. The first Englishman who visited this part of the coast for 
 the purpose of trade, was Captain John Lok, in 1554, but it is very pro- 
 bable that this coast was known to the Portuguese at a much earlier period ; 
 for it is on record that they settled at Accra in 1492, and much about the 
 same period, or about the latter end of the 15th century, the Portuguese 
 discovered Fernando Po. 
 
 The best gold upon the Coast of Africa is found in the neighbourhood of 
 Grand Bassan and Cape Apollonia. It is tolerably good at Dixcove, 
 Cape Coast, and Anamaboo, and the Accra gold is generally considered of 
 inferior quality ; but little, if any, gold is found to the eastward of the 
 River Volta. 
 
 From Ningo to Old Calabar river, an extent of coast .of several hundred 
 miles, there is not a single stone to be found that is as large as a walnut. 
 And from the river Sherbro to Cameroons, an extent of 1500 miles of sea 
 coast, there are only four eminences which exceed the height of 300 feet, 
 and these are the high lands of Capes Mount and Mesufado, and the Cook's 
 Loaf and Devil's Hill, near Wimmebah. A very old authority, Governor 
 Dalzeil, has truly said, that from the river Sherbro to Benin, a tract of 
 1400 miles of sea coast, there is not one navigable river, bay, or harbour, 
 into which a ship can enter. Nor is there one river or creek (the Volta 
 and Lagos excepted) into which a sailing boat can advance 10 miles from 
 the sea. Very few of the creeks will even admit a boat, and not one on 
 the Gold coast, except at Chama and Elmina : a small boat may row up 
 Chama creek about two miles, and up Elmina creek about a quarter of a 
 mile. The shores are almost in every part difficult of access, from the 
 heavy surf which breaks upon the beach ; it is scarcely possible to land 
 anywhere but in a light canoe, and even in that way it is frequently im- 
 practicable for days together ; in many parts, besides, there is near the 
 shore scarcely water enough for a canoe, and the breaking of the waves 
 becomes there so impetuous, that all communication between the shore and 
 the shipping is frequently interrupted for three weeks together, and can 
 seldom be effected with safety. 
 
 A most extraordinary refraction prevails upon the whole line of this 
 coast, which is very likely to mislead the mariner, and induce him to neg- 
 lect the frequent use of the lead, which is the only unerring guide, and 
 sure safeguard all along it. Tornadoes are very prevalent along this coast, 
 from October to April or May, except during the season of the Harmattan 
 or easterly winds, which generally occur in January. They commence 
 with a heavy dark cloud in the S. E. quarter, attended with awful light- 
 ning and thunder, and always give the mariner ample time to prepare to 
 encounter their dreadful impetuosity. Every common squall from the S. E. 
 must not be taken for a tornado, although they are called by that name. 
 There are very seldom more than three or four tornadoes in a season, and 
 when once experienced, are not very liable to be afterwards mistaken. As 
 a general rule, it may be considered, that as the arch of the rising squall is 
 well defined, so in proportion will be the violence of the tornado. 
 
 The navigation of the Bight of Biafra presents no peculiar feature to the 
 attention of the navigator, if I may except the strong N.E. currents, which 
 almost invariably prevail in it ; and every exertion should be made to cross 
 the equator as soon as possible, for by so doing, the ship will find much 
 less current, and the winds will be .generally more from the southward. 
 Many navigators have remarked, that on standing to the westward, be- 
 tween Prince's and St. Thomas's, even when making a trifle of northing, 
 the N. E. current has been found to diminish in strength as the vessel
 
 167 
 
 makes westing. Even as far to the southward as 3 S. there is very seldom 
 any easting in the wind, until passing the meridian 5 W. But the vessel 
 will find a westerly set, before reaching the meridian of Greenwich ; and 
 this set is carried by the equatorial current, which, running in a N. W. and 
 "W. N. W. direction from the South Atlantic Ocean, sets with considerable 
 velocity to the westward, in the neighbourhood of the equator, until it 
 strikes upon the shores of Guayana, where its influence being considerably 
 strengthened by the E. N. E. trade- wind, it raises the level of the Mexican 
 sea, and finds an outlet through the Strait of Florida, where, being opposed 
 by the coast of Carolina, the banks of the American continent, and perhaps 
 by a stream of current, which is well known to set out of the Greenland 
 seas to the S. E.,' it assumes a more easterly direction, until its force is 
 gradually expended, but very little to the westward of the Azores. 
 
 From what I have just said, it will at once appear evident, that the 
 voyage of the mariner will be accelerated or retarded, according as his ship 
 may be situated in one or the other of these currents, and that to a mean 
 extent of about 30' to 36 miles a day. Fernando Po is famous for the 
 finest yams, and perhaps the purest water in the world. Prince's island 
 possesses a very superior description of coffee ; and St. Thomas is a very 
 elevated island, which possesses excellent coffee and fruit. Anno Bon pos- 
 sesses abundance of stock,, which can be best procured in exchange for old 
 cast-off clothing or slops. 
 
 The homeward passage from Africa may be made in two different 
 tracks, the one may be called the precarious, and the other the certain 
 track. The precarious track is to run along the coast, and on giving Cape 
 Palmas a berth of about 100 miles, steer to the N. W., towards the Cape de 
 Verd islands. This track, owing to the prevalent calms, can only be pur- 
 sued with advantage when the sun has northern declination ; and then the 
 mariner must be particularly careful he does not fall to the eastward of 
 Cape Palmas, or into the Guinea current, against which he will find it a 
 very hard matter to work to windward. The certain route, at all times of 
 the year, is to get into the equatorial current as soon as possible, and, aided 
 by its powerful influence, you will find the ship gain very fast to the 
 westward ; and I think it advisable to cross the equator in from 20 to 21 
 W., near which meridian a current is very generally found setting to the 
 northward, and from this position the homeward navigation is generally 
 well understood. 
 
 Southerly and south-west winds are generally most prevalent between 
 the trades, and these winds are strongest between May and August inclu- 
 sive. In July, particularly, these winds blow in excessively violent squalls, 
 and the heavy short sea which they occasion, added to the almost ceaseless 
 rain which falls in these parallels, renders the navigation in this track pe- 
 culiarly annoying and unpleasant. On the 17th December, 1836, when in 
 latitude 9 31' N., and longitude 24 18' W., about 326 miles due south of 
 Fogo, when in the brig Caledonia, of Glasgow, I fell in with a very extra- 
 ordinary kind of weed, and which I have never but in one solitary instance 
 ever before heard of. The instance I allude to was noticed by the talented 
 Humboldt, who fell in with similar weed, in the channel between Clara 
 and Allegranza. The weed was of a brownish green, with thick, friable, 
 circular leaves, indented at the edges, with stems about three inches long. 
 The weed appeared tolerably fresh, with a gelatinous substance, and very 
 minute barnacles adhering to it. Humboldt brought similar weed from 
 the bottom, in a depth of 30 fathoms ; but when I fell in with this weed, 
 I found no bottom at 80 fathoms, and there was no perceptible current." 
 Nautical Magazine for 1843, page 25.
 
 168 
 SECTION VI. 
 
 CAPE LOPEZ TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 FANAES ISLET bears S. S. W. | W. (S. ^ W.) 13 leagues from Round 
 corner point, the coast between being safe and clean ; the islet stands near 
 the shore, the river Nazareth bears from it S. W. by W. W. (S. W. S.) 
 1 6 miles. The west point of this river is low and sandy, and is distinguished 
 by the small town of Fetishe. CAPE LOPEZ bears from Fetishe W. N. "VV. 
 (W. N.) 17^ miles ; the land to the eastward is low and sandy, covered 
 with trees and bushes, and shoals extend from it to the 'distance of 5 or 6 
 miles. 
 
 CAPE LOPEZ is low drowned land, and at first appears all rugged with 
 bushes, that seem to stand in the water ; it is ste^p on the sea-side, free 
 from flats and reefs, and may be approached sufficiently near. The inner 
 coast trends to the S. S. E. 4 leagues, and forms a river that falls into the 
 sea, about 7 leagues to the southward of the cape. A spit of 2 to 3 fathoms 
 extends to the N. E., about 5 miles from the inner part of Cape Lopez ; 
 and in a bay within this are 20 to 12 and 9 fathoms, affording anchorage 
 in 8 to 10 fathoms. The spit must be carefully avoided in coming from the 
 northward to Cape Lopez, as it is not noticed until you approach very near 
 it, for you may have 10 or 12 fathoms a league and a half to the N. E. of 
 the cape, and with the next cast find yourself aground. When you are 
 sailing from the river Bento or Cape St. John, to Cape Lopez, always ob- 
 serve which way the trovado drives the water ; and should you lie at anchor 
 when it arises, you must weigh immediately, and get off ; if it be in the 
 morning, with a south-west or south wind, keep to seaward till noon, then 
 stand again toward the shore with a sea- wind ; but if the wind does not 
 alter at noon, tack about for all that, and go to the shore, there to anchor 
 in oozy, and sometimes sandy ground. 
 
 THE RIVER MEXIAS is distant about 7 leagues to the southward of Cape 
 Lopez, and has anchorage off the entraace in 5 and 4 fathoms ; but there 
 is a reef that stretches half-way across the channel from the south point. 
 The coast between this river and Cape Lopez is very clear, and may safely 
 be approached in 7 to 5 fathoms ; it is of a similar description to the south- 
 ward to the river Fernan Vas, which is distant 7 leagues. Two miles from 
 the latter is Cape St. Catherine, known on advancing from the northward 
 by a tuft of trees, apparently separating it from the main land ; but the 
 coast appears craggy when you approach it from the southward. The 
 river Gamma lies 3 miles to the northward of the cape, and has a depth of 
 6 fathoms in the entrance, but from its south extremity to the point there 
 is a continued reef of rocks and sand. 
 
 The coast to the southward of Cape Lopez, as far as the river Sette, 
 which is distant about 13g leagues from St. Catherine's point, is in general 
 low and clean, having a sandy beach, covered with trees, but with no par- 
 ticular marks to distinguish it : there is a bank of soundings of 35 to 40 
 fathoms, at the distance of 10 leagues to the westward of it. In fine 
 weather the winds usually blow from the S. W., and set in after noon, with 
 land-breezes from the N. E. in the morning. During the rains and winter 
 months they are frequently from the southward, and at these seasons there 
 is scarcely any land-breeze : the current often runs with much rapidity. 
 
 The RIVER SETTE is the northern boundary of the Loango dominions. 
 The land on each side is low, covered with high trees, and is not readily 
 seen ; the entrance has 3 fathoms, but, owing to a bar, is not navigable for
 
 169 
 
 large vessels. The town is of some importance, and stands about 20 
 leagues up the river. Point Piedras, or Rocky point, is distant about 
 8 leagues, S. S. E. (S. E. f E.) from the river Sette ; it is surrounded, as 
 its name implies, by a stony reef. About 4 leagues to the northward of 
 the point lie two high mountains, flat at the top, called the hills of the 
 Holy Spirit. The coast hereabout is rocky, and should not be approached 
 in less than 8 or 9 fathoms. There is great fishing on all this coast, chiefly 
 for pargos or rocket-fish. 
 
 CAPE YTTMBA lies about 50 miles to the south-eastward of Point Piedras, 
 and appears in high hills along the shore, called the high land of Yumba ; 
 it is steep towards the sea, to the pitch of the cape, on which are some tufts 
 of trees, from which a stony reef stretches about a mile to the S. W. 
 Point Matooti is distant 3^ leagues to the southward of Cape Yumba, and 
 has a ledge of rocks, some above water, extending 1 j mile to the north- 
 ward, near to which, on the west side, is anchorage in 12 fathoms. The 
 BAY OF YUMBA is about 3 leagues wide, and 1^ deep, having good anchor- 
 age in 4 to 7 fathoms. The land to the southward of the bay is more 
 elevated ; it is covered with trees, and has a sandy beach. Banda point 
 lies at a distance of 35 miles to the southward of Matooti, and is sur- 
 rounded by foul ground of rocks and coral. In case of necessity a vessel 
 may anchor about a league and a half to the N. "W. of the point. Kilongo 
 reef is distant 9 leagues, and is about half a mile in extent ; there is a cove 
 to the northward, which affords pretty safe anchorage in 5 fathoms. 
 S. E. by S. (S. E. by E.) 8 leagues from Kilongo cove, is the river Quiloo ; 
 the land between is tolerably even, having some hillocks and lofty trees 
 further in, which terminate at a tolerably high mountain, called Salomba. 
 About 4 leagues to the southward of the cove, the land appears white at a 
 distance, intermixed with sandy down and palm trees ; the bottom along 
 shore is sand and stone, so that you ought not approach the coast in less 
 than 9 fathoms, and this should be observed until you reach the river : 
 this may be recognised by the paps> two small elevations covered with 
 wood, on the north side. 
 
 LOANGO BAY. This bay i distant 12 leagues S. S. E. E. (S. E. 
 ^ E.) from Kilongo point ; it is about 4 leagues wide, and the road is good 
 and well secured. You anchor with a clump of trees, called Looboo wood, 
 bearing nearly S. E., in 6 to 4 fathoms. A reef of stones, called the Indian 
 bar, on which the sea breaks, stretches about a league from the south point, 
 and must be carefully avoided. The Red hills surround Loango bay, and 
 extend to the northward of it, towards Quiloo river ; they are steep on 
 the shore, with bushes and palm trees ; they are marked with ravines and 
 fissures, and resemble dirty chalk cliffs, gradually declining to a low land 
 in the centre of the bay. There is a bay, about 2 leagues wide, between 
 the south point of Loango and Black point, having a good sheltered road- 
 stead within it of 4 to 6 fathoms. 
 
 The entrance of the river Loango bears S. by E. 4 E. (S. E. S.) 17 
 miles from Black point ; the coast between is covered with trees, and has 
 a sandy beach, but it is not so elevated as that to the northward. Ten 
 miles further is the river Kacongo, in which space the land rises into hills 
 of moderate height. Three and a half leagues S. of Kacongo is MALEMBA, 
 an open bay, surrounded with red hills, moderately high, but steep towards 
 the beach. There is anchorage here in 6 or 5 fathoms, about a league from 
 the east shore. The marks for the road are a small hillock which borders 
 the shore, and a little rocky point extending into the sea, near which there 
 is a ledge of rocks under water. 
 
 CABENDA BAY. Point Palma, or Cabenda hook, lies about 3
 
 170 
 
 leagues from Malemba, and forms a well sheltered bay ; to enter which 
 steer towards a great tree at the bottom of the bay, bringing it to bear 
 S. E. by S. ; by this you will avoid, and leave on the starboard side, the 
 sand banks at the entrance of the river Bele, which are very dangerous, 
 having breakers occasionally on them. Take care also to to give a berth to 
 Cabenda hook, as it is bordered with shelves that stretch a mile to seaward. 
 The anchorage is in 5 or 4 fathoms, with the hook bearing W. and W. by 
 S., and the tree S. E. by S., distant two miles. Cabenda is sometimes called 
 Two Hills' bay, from two hills that lie to the southward of it, and which 
 may be descried at a distance as you approach it on the north. 
 
 RIVER ZAIRE, OR CONGO. Red point is distant 4 leagues from 
 Cabenda hook, and has a reef around it that stretches 1^ mile into the sea. 
 From this point to that of Palmeirinho, at the entrance of the river Congo, 
 the bearing and distance is S. by E. | E. (S. E. ^ S.) 7 5 leagues. Cape 
 Padron is the westernmost point on the south side of the entrance. Further 
 to the eastward is an obtuse projection, called Turtle corner ; and 6 miles 
 E. N. E. ^ E. (N. E. ^ E.) from the cape is Shark point, known by its 
 thickly wooded hillocks ; the land then bends to the S. W. to a shoal bay, 
 called Diego's bay, and the coast afterwards takes an easterly direction. 
 Between Shark's point and Boolambemba, or Fathomless point, the river 
 is 2| leagues wide, and they bear from each other about E. by S. and W. 
 by N. : near the coast, on each side, are 5 to 7 fathoms, but in mid-channel 
 there is no bottom to be found at 100 fathoms. 
 
 THE RIVER CONGO forms a most impetuous current at its mouth ; and 
 in order to avoid its influence, when coming from the south for Cabenda, 
 you give the shore a berth of 1^ or 2 leagues in 10 fathoms. If you happen 
 to be on the south side of the current, and night coming on, anchor to the 
 S. W. of Cape Padron, about 2 leagues off the coast, and wait till the 
 breeze shall be formed next day, as it would be hazardous to attempt the 
 passage at night. The breeze commonly begins at 9 or 10 o'clock, and 
 blows from S. S. W. to W. S. W. You direct the head of the ship from 
 E. N. E. to N. E., to encounter the current in the most advantageous 
 manner, and keep it so, till you begin to be in the bed or channel of the 
 river, when you put the head to N. N. E., constantly using the lead in 
 the mean time. The water runs with such force, that it will often carry 
 the lead away, and it would be vain to attempt to moor, if you were 
 caught there in a calm. Having past the current, you will find from 16 to 
 14 fathoms ; you must then approach the land to within 8 to 6 fathoms, 
 but get no nearer, as there are some sand-banks of only 15 or 16 feet 
 water, which are to be avoided. As Cabenda hills come in view, steer 
 N. E. towards them, but do not get into less shallow ground, for the reasons 
 already stated. 
 
 The coast to the southward of the river Congo is known by its red cliffs, 
 and the current generally sets towards them ; the land within is flat, the 
 shore clean, and you can safely anchor in 8 or 10 fathoms. Seven leagues 
 from Cape Padron is Cape Engamas ; and S. by E. \ E., 3 leagues from the 
 latter, is Margate bluff. Here the coast rises considerably, and continues 
 so for 1 leagues to Funta bay. Its north point has a reef that stretches 
 3 miles to the southward ; the bay is about 4 miles wide, situated at the 
 mouth of the river Lelunda, and affords good anchorage in 4 to 6 fathoms. 
 To the south of Funta the land is low as far as the river Cousa, which is 
 distant about 4 leagues, and may be known by the high trees at its north 
 point. The coast is now well wooded, with a range of double land behind. 
 Foreland bluff is distant 5 miles from the river Cousa, and 6 leagues fur- 
 ther is a point, called Double-headed cliff hplimd which, on an elevated
 
 171 
 
 spot, some distance inland, is a high pillar of granite, that may serve as a 
 good mark for this part of the coast. 
 
 AMBRIZ BAY. The river Doce is distant about 4 miles to the north of 
 Point Palma, which is the north extremity of Ambriz bay, distant about 
 5 leagues from Double-headed cliff. Palma may be known by a mount, 
 called Aravat, standing to the N. E. of it ; the south extremity of the bay 
 is also distinguished by its close green wood, and, from the impetuous 
 breaking of the sea, is named Strong-tide corner. Both points are foul, 
 being encompassed by strong reefs, on which the sea breaks. In coming 
 towards the bay from the northward, you may approach the coast in 8 or 
 7 fathoms ; the anchorage is in 3^ or 4 fathoms, towards the north side, 
 muddy bottom, distant about two miles from the factory houses, and here 
 a good supply of wood and water may be obtained. 
 
 Nine miles S. E. (S. S. E. ^ E.) from Strong-tide corner is Bamba 
 mount, appearing like an island, to the south of which is the roadstead of 
 Little Mazula, where you may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms. Six leagues fur- 
 ther South (S. S. E.) is Mazula bay, into which falls the river Onzo, running 
 from the N. E. : off the mouth of this river is anchorage in 4 fathoms. 
 The land between the two roads is rendered remarkable by the seven hills, 
 which appear like islands standing close together on the sea-side. We 
 now reach the river Dande, where there is anchorage in 6 to 8 fathoms. 
 Dande point, on the south side of the entrance, is a high steep land, flat and 
 barren, that comes down with a tail ; within it mangroves will be seen, but 
 towards the shore there are only red and white steep cliffs. At the mouth 
 of the river you anchor in 8 or 6 fathoms, and all along the coast in 10 and 
 12, soft mud. The river is described as navigable for vessels drawing 12 
 feet, to some distance past the town, a place which has been the seat of an 
 extensive trade with Brazil and the islands. The coast, 4 leagues to the 
 southward of Dande point, is cliffy, and for 2 leagues further to Bengo 
 river it is a low beach. Cape Lagostas, lying about 7 miles westward of 
 the river, forms the S. "W. point of Bengo bay ; it is a high steep cliff, sur- 
 mounted by trees which cover its summit ; the land between it and the 
 river is low, but rises towards the cape in white and red cliffs, forming a 
 contrast with the low land that appears within to the south-eastward, when 
 you approach from the N. W. 
 
 ST. PAUL DE LOANDO. This is a city of considerable extent, 
 situated on the south shore of Bengo bay, and it is the chief settlement of 
 the Portuguese on the coast of Angola, and the best place for a ship to ob- 
 tain refreshments. The port is formed by a low narrow sandy island, 65 
 miles in length from N. E. to S. W., and forms a bay with the coast where 
 the town is situated, about 1^ mile broad, but so shallow that some parts 
 dry at low water. About half a league S. "W. of Cape Lagostas stands the 
 cenotaph and fort of San Pedro ; and about 4^ miles to the south-westward, 
 on the west of the town, is the citadel of Fort San Miguel ; about half a 
 league from the latter, the depth in the harbour are 17, 16, and 12 fathoms, 
 whence they suddenly shoalen to 2, and in some places only 1 fathom. The 
 island of Loando is so low that it will not be perceived, though the land 
 behind it may be distinctly seen. From its north end there is a hard sandy 
 reef, about one mile broad, that extends two miles E. N. E. (N. E.) having 
 in some parts only 12 feet water upon it. Cape Lagostas bearing S. E. 
 by E. will lead clear of its north end, in 17 or 1 8 fathoms ; and Bengo point 
 brought a little open to the left of the cape, leads nearly a mile to the 
 N. E. of the reef, and to the opening of the harbour. 
 
 On advancing from the northward for St. Paul de Loando, you may ap- 
 proach within half a mile of Cape Lagostas, on a south bearing ; then steer
 
 172 
 
 towards mid-channel to the VV. S. W., for the fort of San Miguel, keeping 
 it a sail's breadth open to the southward of the north-eastern end of Loando 
 island, and having got abreast of Fort St. Francisco, on the east of the town, 
 anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms, good holding ground. Vessels should not ven- 
 ture to pass beyond this fort, as the water shoalens very quickly above it. 
 Coming from the southward, keep well to the north of Loando island, 
 until you open on a S. S. E. bearing, the bluff point in Bengo bay, within 
 Cape Lagostas, which you may there steer for, rounding the reef, and pro- 
 ceeding for the anchorage as before directed. 
 
 CURIMBA COVE lies at the south end of Loando island, and is de- 
 fended by a fort, within which there is an extensive lagoon, divided from 
 the sea by a narrow neck of land. About 5 leagues to the S. W. of Cu- 
 rimba there is a sandy point, called Palmarinho, from which a sandy reef 
 stretches off nearly two miles ; to the southward of it lies Sleepers' bay, 
 and beyond that is the river Coanzo, having an entrance half a league wide. 
 This river is the southern boundary of Angola, and abreast of it you may 
 anchor in 12 or 14 fathoms, 3 leagues from shore, or in 9 fathoms within a 
 league of it. In Sleepers' bay there is anchorage in 6 to 9 fathoms, oozy 
 ground, the marks for which is a grove of trees in the middle of it, along 
 the side, and to the northward two hummocks appearing like paps. 
 
 CAPE LEDO bears S. by W. W. (S. E.) 10 leagues from the en- 
 trance of Coanza ; it is a high rugged promontory, with straggling trees 
 projecting into the sea. About 4 leagues to the northward of it, the coast 
 chiefly appears all steep hills and verdant land ; on the south side it is bor- 
 dered by remarkable white cliffs. About 5 leagues S. \ W. (S. by E. f E.) 
 from Cape Ledo is Cape St. Bras ; and 1 1 leagues to the south of the latter 
 is Point Longo, at some distance to the south of which is a river of the 
 same name. About 5 leagues to the southward of the river Longo is the 
 Bight of Old Benguela, about two leagues wide, from the end of the cliffs 
 to a projection called the Three points, at the mouth of the river Cuba. 
 Point Morro is distant about 5 leagues from the Three points, and is a 
 steep, black, rugged, stony point, and forms the north extremity of Bahia 
 Longa, which lies between that point and Point Longo, 15 leagues to the 
 south. Novo Redondo is situated in Bahia Longa, distant about 10 leagues 
 from Morro point. There is anchorage here, near the shore, in 2 or 3 fathoms; 
 and the settlement, which has been established by the Portuguese, is de- 
 fended by a fort. 
 
 Seven leagues from Novo Redondo is Whale's head, or Muddy point, 
 and beyond that is a projection called Green point. We next arrive at the 
 small cove of Cotovelo, which affords well sheltered anchorage in 3 fathoms, 
 muddy bottom, having 7 fathoms in the the entrance. Three leagues S. W. 
 of Cotovelo is the river Cuvo, the northern boundary of Benguela ; the 
 north point of the river is known by a white cliff that looks like a fort, 
 and to the S. E. of it is a remarkable sugar-loaf, 6 or 7 leagues inland. 
 The river Catumbela is distant 5 leagues S. W. f W. from the north point 
 of Cuvo, and has anchorage before it, in 7, 6, 5, and 3 fathoms. 
 
 ST. PHILIP DE BENGUELA. This place is next in importance to 
 that of St. Paul de Loando. About 4 miles to the S. W. of the river Ca- 
 tumbela is the N. E. point of Bahia das Vacas, or Cows' bay, at the bottom 
 of which stands the town of St. Philip. The point has a spit of sand under 
 water, that runs about three quarters of a mile north into the sea. Ben- 
 guela bay is formed by a peninsula on the S. W. side, the extremity of 
 which is called Point de Chapeo, from a remarkable single clump of trees, 
 named St. Philip's bonnet. The two points of the bay extend from each 
 other 7 or 8 miles, and it is about Z^ miles in depth. Midway between the
 
 173 
 
 two points are 17 fathoms, the depth of water gradually decreasing towards 
 the shore, about three quarters of a mile from which are 6 fathoms. The 
 water here is neither good nor easily procured, but all articles of provisions 
 are plentiful, and abundance of fine fish may be caught in the bay. 
 
 H. M. S. Nereus lay in 10 fathoms, with the flagstaff in a line with the 
 east side of the church, and this is considered the best anchorage. Another 
 vessel moored in 10 fathoms, with the northern extreme of the land N. by 
 W. 1 TV., St. Philip's bonnet TV. N. TV. \ TV., the flagstaff of the fort 
 S. E. E., about l^ mile from the shore : several vessels at the time were 
 riding within in the road. 
 
 Salinas point bears W. S. TV. ^ W. 9^ leagues from St. Philip's bonnet, 
 and extends a league and a half seaward, beyond the land to the south- 
 ward, and has a reef about it. The Friar's rocks lie S. TV. TV. 7 leagues 
 from it : these consist of three rocks lying off Francisco point, between 
 which and Salinas point, to the northward, is situated the BAY OP 
 ELEPHANTS, so named from the number of those animals seen there. The 
 shore hereabout is bold, and there is good anchorage near it, in 10 or 12 
 fathoms. Cape St. Mary bears S. TV. by TV. (westerly) 5^ leagues from the 
 Friar's, the land between forming a bay of the same name, the shore of 
 which is steep, and the depth of water very great. 
 
 The coast, to the southward of Cape St. Mary, is high and steep towards 
 the river Gubero, which is distant 9 leagues ; it may be known by a round 
 hill that lies about half-way between. We next reach the river St. 
 Nicholas, 10 leagues more to the southward, rendered dangerous by a reef 
 on the south side of the entrance, with breakers on it. Five leagues be- 
 yond St. Nicholas is Village bay, which is small, but the ground is good. 
 To the southward of it, near the entrance of the river Ramos, stands a high 
 mountain, called the Old Man, that serves as a good mark for the coast. 
 
 LITTLE FISH BAY. Cape Euspa is the north point of this bay, and lies 
 about 12 leagues S. TV. S. (S. by W. % TV.) from the Old Man mountain. 
 There are two sandy coves between, separated from each other by Cape 
 Gertruda, called Flies' and Turtle bays, in either of which there is anchor- 
 age. Point Annonciation, or Brown's point, forms the south extremity of 
 Little Fish bay, and is distant about 2 leagues from Cape Euspa. Near it 
 is a projecting head of sand, that extends to the N. TV. ; and here com- 
 mences a range of hills and high cliffs, that extend 6 or 7 leagues to the 
 entrance of the river Flamangos ; and in this space stands Mount Negro, 
 which may be seen at a considerable distance. 
 
 CAPE NEGRO. The bearing and distance from the south point of 
 Little Fish bay to Cape Negro is S. W. ^ S. 10 leagues. This is a remark- 
 able headland, distinguished by a pillar of alabaster, erected thereon by 
 the Portuguese, on its first discovery in 1486 ; it is of a level, brown, sandy 
 appearance, discernable at 7 leagues distance, were it not for the at- 
 mosphere being generally hazy, and owing to this circumstance it has been 
 passed at less than half that distance without being seen. 
 
 PORT ALEXANDER. From Cape Negro to Port Alexander the distance 
 is S. W. | S. 2| leagues. This is a very safe harbour, affording excellent 
 anchorage in 16 to 12 fathoms, but towards the N. W. the harbour is 
 shallow ; it is formed by a peninsula on the north, being a low sandy 
 tongue of land. The outer point on the east is a high sand cliff, and the 
 coast towards Cape Negro is of a similar description. From the outer 
 point of Port Alexander, the bearing and distance to Great Fish bay are 
 S. by W. i W. 14, leagues. 
 
 GREAT FISH BAY. This is a spacious and fine bay, formed by a 
 narrow neck of land to the westward, called the Tiger peninsula ; its en-
 
 174 
 
 trance is to the northward, and above two leagues in breadth, getting still 
 wider as you advance within it. You may round the N. W. point of the 
 Tiger peninsula very close, in from 18 to 12 fathoms water, clear of any 
 danger whatever. Within the harbour are from 20 to 5 fathoms ; it ap- 
 pears safe and well sheltered, but it is little frequented, except by whalers, 
 on account of there being no fresh water to be procured there : we appre- 
 hend, that by digging wells on the shore, this article might easily be ob- 
 tained. To the southward of Great Fish bay, as far as latitude 31 S., 
 the coast is a mere sandy desert, and said to be destitute of fresh water. 
 
 At some distance from the south point of Tiger peninsula, the land is 
 bordered with downs and several slender bays, for a distance of nearly 20 
 leagues to Nourse river ; it thence takes a 8. AV. and southerly direction, 
 25 leagues, to Cape Frio, on the north of which is a cove of the same name. 
 Although the land, some few leagues to the northward of the cape, is toler- 
 ably high, yet in its immediate vicinity the shore is low and sandy, and 
 continues so for several leagues to the southward. From Cape Negro to 
 Cape Frio the soundings vary from 70 to 50 fathoms water, 7 or 8 miles 
 from the land. Frio cove may be recognised by three hills, the middle one 
 being higher than the other. The land from hence to the cape appears 
 double ; as you approach towards the latter, the coast is covered with trees, 
 interspersed with numerous sand hills, and the depth of water is generally 
 about from 15 to 20 fathoms, at one or two leagues distance. Nearly 70 
 leagues to the southward of Cape Frio is Cape Sierra, or Cape Cross ; the 
 coast between is very imperfectly known, it is chiefly of a low sandy 
 nature, rising into high land towards the interior. The depth of water 
 near the shore varies from 10 to 15 and 20 fathoms. 
 
 WALWICH BAY is spacious, and well sheltered, except from nor- 
 therly winds, which seldom blow here. There is a safe harbour, forming the 
 south part of it, the entrance to which bears S. | E. (S. S. E. ^ E.) 23 leagues 
 from Cape Sierra. Its western side forms a peninsula, 4 miles in length, 
 terminating at the north, at Pelican point, where its entrance is about 3 
 miles wide : the soundings round the shore regularly vary from 3 to 6 and 
 7 fathoms. The bay may be known by a remarkable hill to the northward 
 of it, with several sharp peaks to the top, which incline towards the N. E. 
 About 4 leagues to the northward of Walwich bay is a newly discovered 
 river, named Somerset. 
 
 SANDWICH HARBOUR, or PORT D' ILHEO, lies 13 leagues to the south- 
 ward of Walwich bay. The outward point of the harbour, in which are 
 only 3 fathoms water, stretches some distance into the sea, and is encom- 
 passed by reefs. 
 
 THE ALLIGATOR ROCKS lie in latitude 24 38' S., and consist of a reef, 
 lying about 6 leagues from the shore, with breakers running to the south- 
 eastward full two leagues, ffollam, or Bird Island, lies in about the same 
 parallel, a league and a half distant from the land. 
 
 SPENCER'S BAY. This is sheltered to the westward by a small 
 island, called Mercury, and a rock at its north end ; yet it is more exposed 
 than either of the bays we have already described on this desert coast. 
 The best anchorage appears to be behind Mercury island, in 6 or 7 fathoms ; 
 the southern shore is rocky, while a considerable surf beats continually on 
 the sandy beach, which forms the eastern side of the bay : it is but little 
 frequented. The coast hereabout is a sandy beach, having no appearance 
 of water or vegetation ; the interior exhibits high sand hills, but does not 
 appear to be inhabited ; lions and other wild animals seem numerous. 
 
 ANGRA PEQUENA is a narrow inlet of the sea, running in to the 
 eastward of a rocky promontory ; its depth is about two leagues, having
 
 175 
 
 6, 5, 4, 3, and 2 fathoms water : this part is well sheltered from all winds. 
 On its eastern side is a small cove, with a sandy beach for boats to land at, 
 if necessary ; and at the southern part of the harbour is a sandy plain, the 
 soundings lessening gradually as you approach towards it. There are three 
 small islands to the northward of Angra Pequena, called Seal, Penguin, and 
 Shark islands; these are surrounded with rocks, but have passages between, 
 and an excellent harbour within them, in which are 3 to 5 fathoms. A dan- 
 gerous shoal is said to lie 1 1 miles from the shore of Angra Pequena. 
 
 ELIZABETH BAY. This slender bay lies about 5 leagues to the 
 southward of Angra Pequena, and is formed by a narrow semicircular 
 island, between 2 or 3 miles distant from the main, called Possession island, 
 within which vessels may ride either close to the island, in 3, 4, or 5 
 fathoms, or midway between, in 10 or 11 fathoms, the island affording 
 shelter from the West and S. "W. At the north end of Possession island 
 are some rocky islets, having 11 fathoms water near them ; and at the 
 south end there is a rocky reef, with 9 fathoms at its extremity : there is 
 a safe landing for boats on the main. Tides rise, on the full and change of 
 the moon, in Elizabeth bay, about 6 feet. About 22 leagues to the south- 
 ward of Elizabeth bay is Angra Juntas, or Narmaquas bay, with an island 
 at its entrance. The coast hereabout, or indeed all the way between, is 
 rocky, and destitute of water and vegetation. 
 
 CAPE VOLTAS is about 22 leagues from Angra Juntas, and forms 
 the south point of Orange, or Giarep river, the mouth of which is half a 
 mile wide, but much encumbered with rocks, extending in an east and west 
 direction a mile from shore. An extensive reef projects from the cape, 
 and there are several small islands to the southward of it. On this side 
 the coast is low and sandy, but towards the northward it is more elevated. 
 
 The coast to the southward of Cape Voltas presents an appearance of 
 barren sandy plains, without water, until you reach the river Koussie, 
 which forms the N. "W. boundary of the Colony of the Cape. Nearly 13 
 leagues further is Zwaitlinje river. Then follow the rivers Groerne and 
 Zwarte Darn ; and about 8 leagues from the latter is the mouth of the 
 river Oliphant, or Elephant, the entrance to which is rocky, shallow, and 
 contracted. Donkin's bay lies about 4 leagues to the southward of Elephant 
 river, and 3 leagues beyond that is a small sandy cove, called Lambert's 
 cove. 
 
 ST. HELEN, OR HELENA BAY. About 5 leagues south of Lam- 
 bert's is a high bluff headland, called Cape Deseada ; and between that 
 and Paternoster, or St. Martin's point, 10 leagues to the south-eastward, 
 is situated St. Helen's bay. There are regular soundings in the bay, of 12 
 to 10 fathoms, decreasing towards the shore to 6 and 4 fathoms ; but it is 
 bordered by a reef on the western side, that extends all the way to Berg 
 river, an inconsiderable stream falling into the bottom of the bay. The 
 anchorage in St. Helen's bay is safe in summer, when southerly winds are 
 prevalent ; but in winter, when it blows from the North and N. W. quar- 
 ters, it is not to be recommended. It is high water here, at the full and 
 change, at half-past two o'clock. St. Martin's point is low ; a rock is said 
 to lie 3 leagues to the southward of it, about 4 miles from land. 
 
 SALDANHA BAY is situated about 7 leagues south of the former ; 
 the coast between is broken and rugged, indented by several small coves, 
 and must be given a wide berth, as some rocks lie a considerable distance 
 from it. SALDANHA is a spacious, secure, and excellent harbour ; its en- 
 trance is in latitude 33 6' S. ; there can be no difficulty in running for it, 
 if you are assured of your proper latitude. At its mouth are the islands 
 of Jutten and Malagen, or Malagassen ; these are both low, and require a
 
 176 
 
 person to be placed at the mast-head to discover them ; they lie nearly 
 N. W. and S. E. of each other, and the channel between them has from 
 13 to 24 fathoms water. It is said there is also a passage between Jutten 
 island and the main, with from 7 to 1 1 fathoms water in it, and that both 
 sides may be safely approached within 1 00 yards distance ; but that you 
 should anchor at twice that distance off, or you will have foul ground. 
 Between Malagassen and the main there is also a channel, with from 20 to 
 10 fathoms, but foul and dangerous ; some rocks likewise lie off the N. W. 
 of this island. Further in is the island Mascus, a flat naked rock, with a 
 passage on either side of it ; this you may approach to about a cable's 
 length, into 6 and 7 fathoms water, but not nearer. The southern channel 
 is the wider of the two, and preferable with a southerly wind ; for if de- 
 sirous of anchoring to the southward, in order to avail yourself of a 
 S. Easter, to go out, you will be able to reach your anchorage ; or if you 
 wish to run into Hoetjes bay, you will have time enough to take in sail 
 before you anchor. 
 
 HOETJES BAY is that part which forms the northern part of Saldanha 
 bay, and affords anchorage in 6 fathoms water, with the granite pier in one 
 with Mascus island bearing S. by W., where you will ride land-locked, and 
 sheltered from all winds. About a cable's length from the northern point 
 of land which forms Hoetjes bay, is a rock which dries at low water, 
 spring tides. There is also another rock, called the Blinder Klip, which 
 has only 3 feet water over it at low water, and is not visible unless the 
 wind blows strong enough to cause a rippling : the mark for this rock is 
 Mascus island and the Mouse's back (a hill on the northern shore) in one. 
 The western shore of Hoetjes bay is skirted by a range of rocks, having 
 4 fathoms water close to them ; the starboard shore is bold-to in working 
 up to the head of Saldanha bay, until you are about 1| mile from Sheep 
 island, where a triangularly-formed bank begins and terminates at Sala- 
 mander point, the soundings over which are from 5 to 3 fathoms ; the depth 
 is regular on the starboard side, from 3^ and 3 fathoms, till within half a 
 mile of the beach. Near Scapen, or Sheep island, is another small island, 
 having shoal water off it, and the depths very irregular ; about a mile off it 
 are 2^ fathoms, and in some parts are only 6 and 7 feet. Between this and 
 the eastern shore, the channel continues good as far as Melvill's, or the Old 
 Port house, up the Lagoon. In working up to Sheep's island, you ought to 
 keep your lead going constantly, for the the soundings to the N. Eastward 
 are regular ; but in standing back S. Westward, endeavour to get the north 
 end of Sheep island in one with Saddle hill, then put about, for the water 
 shoals directly afterwards. 
 
 There is a place called B AVIAN'S BAY, situated at the back of, or between 
 Mascus island and the main, where vessels may ride sheltered from the 
 N. W. winds; but the ground is foul, and Hoetjes bay will always be found 
 more convenient, as ships may work out from that place at all times. 
 Cattle and provisions are commonly plentiful and reasonable, and fish may 
 be netted in abundance in Riet's bay or cove, or with the hook and line at 
 every other part of the bay. This is also an excellent place for repairing 
 or even building vessels, but the greatest inconvenience attending, is the 
 want of wood and fresh water. 
 
 DASSEN OR CONEY ISLAND is a low flat island, lying 7 leagues 
 to the southward of Saldanha bay, and 5 miles from the land ; it is the re- 
 sort of innumerable penguins and rabbits. Its S. and W. sides are rocky, 
 with breakers that extend half a league into the sea ; there is anchorage, 
 however, on the east side in 16 fathoms, about a gun-shot from the shore, 
 bottom of white sand.
 
 177 
 
 ROBBEN, OR PENGUIN ISLAND, lies 24 miles S. E. (S. S. E. 
 
 f E.) of Dassen island ; it is low and flat, about two miles long, and one 
 mile broad, being 3| miles off" the main, and 4| miles to the northward of 
 Green point, and is surrounded by rocky ground. One mile distant from 
 its southern extremity is a sunken rock, called the Whale, over which the 
 sea breaks when there is any swell, but at other times the water flows 
 smoothly over it. 
 
 Should a ship, in making for Table bay, be driven to the northward of 
 Dassen island, by the southern winds, the soundings will be a good and 
 safe guide to approach the land by, for between Saldanha and Table bay 
 the depths are regular, and the soundings extend several leagues from the 
 land. From Dassen island to Robben island the depth of water is from 
 50 to 60 fathoms, at 5 miles from the shore, and 3 miles from the land 
 there are from 20 to 22 fathoms ; about 10 miles N. W. of Robben island 
 are 30 fathoms, and 40 miles from Cape Town, in the parallel of 33 30', 
 there are 110 fathoms. 
 
 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, one of the most southern parts of Africa, 
 was discovered by Bartholomew Dias, the Portuguese navigator, in 1493. 
 Dias, after exploring the Atlantic coast of Africa, as far as Cape das Voltas, 
 29 S. latitude, was driven out to sea by a storm, and the next land he saw 
 was Algoa bay. He had thus doubled the south extremity of Africa, 
 without knowing it. On his way back he saw the cape, since called the 
 Cape of Good Hope, to which he gave the name of Cabo Tormentosa, or 
 Cape of Storms. On his return home, the King of Portugal gave it the 
 name of Cape of Good Hope, as an omen that the Portuguese had now 
 a fair prospect of reaching India, the great object of their maritime 
 expeditions. 
 
 TABLE BAY is situated to the north-eastward of that promontory which 
 stretches towards the Cape of Good Hope, and is easily known by the high 
 mountains which are contiguous, and which, seen at any considerable dis- 
 tance, have the appearance of an island. The highest of these is at the 
 south part of the bay, and known by the name of the Table mountain, 
 being 3,582 feet above the level of the sea, flat at top, and sloping almost 
 perpendicularly down at its eastern end, where it is joined to a rugged 
 peaked mountain, called the Devil's hill, nearly equal in height, the division 
 forming an apparent gap or chasm between. Table mountain falls down 
 also to the westward, in a similar steep and sudden manner, from its sum- 
 mit to a considerable distance, the further declivity being abrupt, until it 
 joins the foot of Sugar-loaf, or Lion's head, a mountain whose elevation 
 is 2,160 feet : this is joined on the northward by an oblong hill, 1,000 feet 
 high, and called the Lion's rump. On the top of the Lion's head a flag is 
 displayed whenever any vessel appears in the offing, and near the summit 
 is a spring of good water. The Table mountain, Devil's hill, and Lion's 
 head, make in fact but one mountain, for, though disjointed at their sum- 
 mits, they unite at a very considerable height above their base ; the Devil's 
 hill appears broken into angular ragged points, while the Lion's head is 
 rounded similar to a dome, and looks like a work of art. 
 
 CAPE TOWN is situated in the S. E. part of Table bay, and built 
 upon a shelving plain, which gradually rises to the foot of the Devil's hill, 
 the Table mountain, and Lion's head ; the last of which stretches out to 
 the northward, and shelters the bay from the westerly winds. The town 
 is defended by numerous forts and batteries, and all kinds of refreshments 
 can be readily procured for shipping, on reasonable terms ; water is plenti- 
 fully supplied at the pier, being conveyed there in pipes, and commodiously 
 calculated for the accommodation of the boats.
 
 178 
 
 TABLE BAY affords an excellent and secure place for shipping in the 
 summer months, when the S. E. winds prevail ; but when N. W. winds 
 come on, vessels commonly are obliged to stretch round to the eastward of 
 the cape, and take shelter in Simon's bay. Ships bound to Table bay 
 should endeavour to make the land to the southward of it, on account of 
 the southerly winds and northerly currents which frequently prevail there : 
 many, for want of this precaution, have fallen in with Dassen, or Coney 
 island, or further to the northward. 
 
 All vessels going to Table bay should pass between Robben island and 
 Green point, while those bound from thence may go the northward of the 
 island ; for the strong S. E. winds produce a favourable current between 
 that island and the northern shore, while that between Robben island and 
 Green point will be running into the bay ; the ground between these latter 
 is foul. Vessels coming in from the southward may, as they advance, come 
 within 1^ mile of the shore, which is bold, and they will have at that dis- 
 tance 50 and 60 fathoms water ; but Green point may be approached to 
 the depth of 10, 9, or 8 fathoms, without danger; they may then steer 
 towards the shipping in the road, in 8, 7, or 6 fathoms, regiilar soundings. 
 The proper anchorage in the bay is abreast of the town, on a sandy bottom. 
 In the summer months a ship may moor in 7, 6, or 5 fathoms, with Green 
 point bearing N. W. ^ N. (by compass) the bottom of Table mountain, 
 S. W. ^ S., the flagstaff on the Lion's rump, W. ^ S., and the house of 
 Penguin island, N. | W., at the distance of half to one mile from shore, and 
 from one to one and a half mile from the town. When N. W. winds are 
 expected, ships should not anchor in less than 6^ or 6 fathoms, because the 
 swell runs more regular than in shoal water, and at these times they should 
 ride with a whole cable or more, lest they should drive, in which case it 
 would be difficult to bring them up again. The best ground is in from 5 
 to 7<2 fathoms ; further out, with the Lion's head in one with, or open to, 
 the northward of the Lion's rump, the ground is rocky all across the bay. 
 
 The prevailing itinds, near the cape and in Table bay, are from the S. E. 
 and Southward, during the summer, tjiat is from October to April, the 
 S. E. winds blowing more or less in every month of the year, and generally 
 bringing settled weather. N. E. winds are less frequent than any, and 
 never continue long. The S. E. winds extend more than 200 leagues to 
 the eastward of the cape. In May, June, July, and August, the S. "W. and 
 AVest winds blow strong, and are often attended with fogs and cloudy 
 weather ; but the N. W. winds are most violent in these mouths, and fre- 
 quently continue blowing for several days together, with a clouded sky, 
 accompanied at times with lightning and showers of hail or rain. These 
 winds extend to 27 S., and to a considerable distance Westward. The 
 summer continues from October to April, during which season it has been 
 thought safe for ships to lie in Table bay. The N. W. gales are occasionally 
 experienced about the cape in every month in the year, but they seldom 
 blow home in Table bay during the summer months, although there are 
 instances of ships having been driven on shore by them in April. The 
 Dutch commonly fixed on the 10th of May as the period for ships to leave 
 this place, and never suffered them to remain there after that time, on 
 account of the approaching season, when N. W. gales were expected to set 
 in, which blow so violently, and raise such a mountainous sea, that it is 
 almost impossible for any ship to ride at her anchors. 
 
 In the fair weather season regular sea-breezes from S. W. and West pre- 
 vail in the mornings, and continue until noon, sometimes longer ; they are 
 then succeeded by S. E. or E. S. E. winds from the land, which generally 
 blow fresh during the remaining part of the day, and frequently until the
 
 179 
 
 following morning, when the sea-breeze returns again. Whenever the 
 Table land in the summer months begins to be clouded, it indicates a strong 
 E. S. E. or S. E. wind, which, soon after it is clouded over, comes on, and 
 blows excessively hard, sometimes for two or three days, particularly in 
 January, February, and March. With these winds ships frequently part 
 their cables, or bring both anchors ahead ; therefore ships ought to moor 
 with good cables ; and it is usual, as soon as moored into this bay, to strike 
 yards and topmasts, and make all as snug as possible. When the Table 
 land is free from clouds, the south-easter will be moderate. It is high 
 water in Table bay at half after 2, full and change, and the tides seldom 
 rise above 5 feet. 
 
 The preceding were the directions given previous to the erection of the 
 LIGHT-HOUSE on Green point, in 1825, since which the following has been 
 made public : 
 
 Cape Town, 1st March, 1842. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR ENTERING TABLE BAY BY NIGHT, by the plan con- 
 structed on the observations made by H. M. S. Leven, November, 1825. 
 The bearings mentioned in these instructions are all by compass or 
 magnetic : 
 
 1 . To enter Table bay from the northward, meaning to pass outside of 
 Robben island, a ship should keep the light to the eastward of south, 
 9 E., or about S. by E., until she get soundings under 20 fathoms, at a 
 little more than a mile from the light-house ; she may then steer E. S. E. 
 or E. by S., not to come under 10 or 12 fathoms, until the light bear 
 W. S. W. ; she may then steer for the anchorage, and may anchor in from 
 7 to 6 fathoms, as soon as the lights are shutting in behind the Lion's tail. 
 This track leads about a mile clear of danger on Green point ; but a ship 
 need not approach it so near, if she have, by seeing Robben island, ascer- 
 tained by its bearings that she is clear of the Whale rock, in which case 
 she may round it at a greater distance from Green point, if desirable, but 
 the soundings in that case will not alone be a sure guide. 
 
 2. In coming from the S. W., a ship should not get less than 40 fathoms 
 before the light bears S. E. or E. S. E., nor less than 20 fathoms before it 
 bears S. by E., when the preceding directions may be followed. 
 
 From the northward (inside of Robben island) the light should be kept 
 about S. W. by S., until a ship have passed that island ; in doing which 
 she may have some casts from 8 to 6 fathoms ; and when on that course 
 the water deepens to 10 or 12 fathoms, she may steer for the anchorage by 
 the plan as before directed. In beating round Green point, a ship should 
 never shoal her water under 11 or 12 fathoms, until she have brought the 
 light to bear W. S. W., as before said. In beating between Robben island 
 and the main, to enter Table bay, the soundings may be taken from the 
 island, as it shoals-to very regularly. In standing towards the main, it ap- 
 pears prudent to tack at the first cast of the lead after the water shoalens. 
 In these directions it i* taken for granted, that a ship will always keep her 
 leads going. By day, or when the shores or surf can be seen, or indeed 
 under any circumstances, the plan ought to be a sufficient guide. 
 
 There are two lights at the light-house, which are in one about S. W. 
 by W. ; these appear to be of no other use than to assure the navigator 
 which is the light-house, if he should see other lights. We have seen the 
 lights clearly off deck at 16 miles distance, but they will not make clear as 
 two lights until within 6 or 7 miles to the westward of them, and from the 
 northward one light only will be seen. 
 
 (Signed) W. F. OWEN, 
 
 Captain of H. M. S. Leven.
 
 180 
 
 A light having been erected on the Mouille point, with a lenticular light 
 of the 4th class, for the better guidance of vessels entering Table bay 
 during the night, the following instructions are appended to the instruc- 
 tions by Captain Owen, R. N. 
 
 In standing in from the S. W., a ship should not pass the lights on Green 
 point nearer than a mile ; nor should the coxirse be altered from the east- 
 ward to the southward, with the intention of steering for the anchorages ; 
 nor should the ship be brought into less than 14 or 15 fathoms water, be- 
 fore the lights on Green point bear S. W. by W. ^ W., (they will then be 
 in one) when the light on the Mouille point will instantly be seen, (and not 
 before) bearing nearly S. by W. A ship may then alter the course from 
 the eastward, and steer S. S. E. for the centre of the anchorages, and anchor 
 whenever the lights on Green point are shut in, (by sand-hills near the 
 Mouille) and the light on the Mouille point bears N. W., distant about a 
 mile, in from 6 to 8 fathoms water. Vessels of light draught of water 
 may steer S. by E. ^ E. for the anchorage, and anchor with the Mouille 
 light bearing N. "W. by N., in from 4 to 5 fathoms of water. 
 
 The ship's distance from the shore, when the light on the Mouille appears, 
 may be readily ascertained by the bearings of the two light-houses, and 
 the distance between them, which is 1,215 yards ; the perpendicular height 
 of the Mouille light, above high-water mark, is 40 feet. 
 
 In coming in from the northward, (inside Robben island) the lights on 
 Green point will appear in one, (or nearly so) and the light on the Mouille 
 point will also be seen, the distance between the light-houses being as 
 above-mentioned. The directions by Captain Owen, and the appended 
 directions, will be a sufficient guide to the anchorage. 
 
 It is earnestly recommended to strangers not to attempt to beat into 
 Table bay at night, in squally or thick weather. The strictest attention 
 should he paid to the soundings, and the leads kept constantly going. The 
 plan of the bay, by Captain Owen, (upon which the instructions are 
 founded) should also be at hand for reference. 
 
 (Signed) J. BANCE, Port Captain. 
 
 lis Ex( 
 
 By command of his Excellency Sir G. T. Napier, K. C. B., Governor, 
 Vice Admiral, and Commander-in-Chief of the Colony of the Cape of 
 Good Hope, and its Dependencies, &c. 
 
 (Signed) J. MOORE CRAIG, 
 
 Acting Secretary to Government. 
 
 N. B. The light on the Mouille point will be lighted from and after the 1st 
 day of July next. (Copied from the Nautical Magazine for 1842, page 495.^ 
 
 TABLE BAY TO FALSE BAY. About 3 miles to the southward of the 
 light-house on Green point, lying half a mile from land, off the Sugar-loaf 
 or Lion's head, lie two clusters of rocks, called the Lion's paws ; and 7 
 miles further is a remarkable projection of rocks, extending from the shore, 
 near the promontory of Chapman's head ; indeed the whole of the coast 
 hereabout is encumbered with rocks and foul ground. To the eastward of 
 Chapman's head is HOUT BAY, a snug little cove, where shelter may occa- 
 sionally be found. The entrance is about a mile and a quarter broad, and 
 has a depth of 18 to 12 fathoms, but rather open to the S. W. You enter 
 along the eastern shore, which is very high and rugged, and quite inacces- 
 sible ; and having passed the middle of the entrance, luff up under the west 
 point, and there anchor. The summit of a remarkable peak, upwards of 
 3,000 feet in height, seen over high cliffs, brought to bear E. | S. (E. N. E.) 
 will lead directly to the bay. On the west point, called York point, there 
 is a battery, and on the opposite side there is another, and a block -house. 
 About 2 miles to the westward of Hout bay, three-quarters of a mile from
 
 181 
 
 land, is a rock above water, called the Vulcan ; within it is a bank of 
 breakers, called Duyker's isle and shoal. 
 
 About 5 miles to the southward of Hout bay is Snake's head, or Slang 
 Kop point ; the coast between forms Chapman's bay, but it is wholly en- 
 cumbered with rocks, and continues so from Snake's head to the SOUTHERN- 
 MOST EXTREMITY of the CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. This is a high precipitous 
 cliff, with a peak 1000 feet in height; it lies in latitude 34 22' S., and 
 longitude 18 24^' E., and has a reef extending nearly a mile to the west- 
 ward. About a mile eastward of the cape is a small rock above water, 
 called Dias Rock, lying a cable's length from shore. The Bellows is a large 
 rock, even with the water's edge, over which the sea constantly breaks ; it 
 lies with the south pitch of the cape bearing North (N. N. W. ^ W.) dis- 
 tant 2 miles, and Muisingberg_ mountain, in N. W. corner of False bay, 
 shut in with the cape point. The Anvil is another rock, separated from 
 the Bellows by a safe channel (which, however, it may not be wise to at- 
 tempt) of 10 fathoms ; it has 10 feet water over it, and lies with the Cape 
 point bearing N. N. W. (N. W. \ W.)' distant one mile and a half; the 
 Bellows W. f S. 2 miles ; and the Devil's peak, in Table bay, just open of 
 Muisingberg mountain. A master of the navy has asserted, with evident 
 probability, that there are other rocks near the Anvil, but we have no par- 
 ticulars respecting them. 
 
 FALSE BAY. The entrance to False bay is formed by the Cape of 
 Good Hope on the west side, and Cape False to the eastward ; the latter 
 is a steep bluff, resembling a quoin, which may be seen 8 leagues distant, 
 appearing to lean over to the west, when viewed from the southward ; it 
 is often called Hangklip, and sometimes Hottentot's point ; the distance 
 between the two capes is about 16 miles. Across the entrance of False 
 bay the depths of water are from 40 to 50 fathoms ; but a little to the 
 westward of the middle of the entrance there is a bank of rocky ground, 
 called Whittle's bank, with soundings on it from 15 to 30 fathoms, having 
 45 to 50 fathoms within it, and 50 to 60 fathoms to the southward. 
 
 The middle and eastern parts of False bay are free from dangers, but 
 the ground is foul and unfit for anchorage. On the western side, at 4 miles 
 from shore, is the TRIDENT ROCK, having only 12 feet over it. This rock 
 is about 20 feet long, and 10 broad ; but there is a rocky bank surrounding 
 it, of uneven soundings, and two cables' length in diameter, having from 
 5 to 15 fathoms of water. The Trident is steepest on the S. E. side. At 
 40 fathoms south of it is the Whittle Rock, of 4 5 fathoms ; and there are 
 several rocks at about a cable's length to the N. W., having 4 and 5 
 fathoms. From the Trident Rock, the Cape point of Good Hope bears 
 S. W. W., 7 miles ; the north point of Little Smith's Winkel bay 
 N. W. by W. ^ W. (West) 4 miles ; and Noah's Ark, on the south side 
 of Simon's bay, N. W . by N. 6 miles. 
 
 As you enter False bay from the southward, you will perceive a ridge 
 of rugged hills to the northward, which continue as far as Table bay, and 
 in clear weather the Table mountain may be seen 20 leagues, but quite 
 distinct within the entrance. On coming in from the westward, with a 
 N. W. wind, a ship may pass to the southward and eastward of the Bellows 
 and Anvil, at the distance of two miles, or according to circumstances. 
 From abreast of the Bellows, at 2 or 3 miles, haul up no higher than 
 E. S. E., or E. by S., until you have run 5 or 6 miles in this direction, 
 whence you may steer to the E. N. E. and N. E., till the cape bears 
 W. N. W., and you will be clear of the sunken rocks. In advancing thus, 
 you may always gain a proper anchoring-ground, in case of a calm, or an 
 unforeseen shifting of the wind.
 
 182 
 
 SIMON'S BAY is situated about 11 miles to the northward of the 
 Cape point, near the N. \V. corner of False bay, at the foot of the highest 
 mountain on the coast. From April to September, when Table bay is un- 
 safe, ships put in here, as it is considered secure in all seasons ; for, although 
 it is open to N. E. and Easterly winds, they never blow sufficiently strong 
 to cause any apprehension of danger. Cape Town is distant about 6 leagues 
 from Simon's bay, and provisions and refreshments of every description 
 may easily be procured; the water is also good and abundant. At a small 
 distance from the south side of Simon's bay lies a small islet or rock, in 
 form of a barn, called, from its appearance, Noah's Ark ; about three- 
 quarters of a mile to the N. E. of it is a small reef, at the water's edge, 
 called the Dispatch rock (commonly called the Roman rock*) ; and be- 
 tween them is the channel into the bay. 
 
 SEAL ISLAND lies about 2 leagues E. ^ S. (E. N. E.) of the Roman 
 rocks, and is surrounded by numerous straggling rocks, some above, and 
 others under water ; they extend 2 or 3 miles to the southward, and nearly 
 4 miles to the eastward, and may be frequently seen by breakers on them 
 when the sea runs high ; vessels should therefore be careful of them, when 
 turning to windward. 
 
 As you approach Simon's bay, Noah's Ark will soon be discerned : it is 
 a smooth level island, appearing like a pontoon at a distance ; but the most 
 conspicuous object, and first to be seen, are those white sand-downs, ap- 
 pearing like snow, in the hollows between the mountains to the N. W. of 
 Noah's Ark. You may coast along Noah's Ark, as it is steep-to, and has 
 
 9 fathoms close to it ; in the channel between it and the Roman rocks are 
 
 10 to 15 fathoms; from hence a vessel should steer direct for the white 
 sand-downs to the anchorage. If working with a N. W. wind, you may 
 go to the northward of the Roman rocks, taking care not to go too near 
 them, as a detached rock of 3 or 4 fathoms is said to lie on that side. This 
 
 is also a clear channel, and may indeed be deemed more convenient with 
 the winds from the N. W., as it is double the width of that between the 
 rocks and Noah's Ark. 
 
 Ships may pass to the eastward of the Whittle and Trident rocks, be- 
 tween them and the reefs, to the southward of Seal island, though the 
 western channel is undoubtedly to be recommended to strangers. Should 
 you, however, wish to adopt the former, do not bring the Cape point to the 
 southward of S. W. by W., until Noah's Ark bears N. W. by W., but 
 when on the starboard tack, nothing to the northward of this bearing ; 
 you will then go clear of the Whittle rock. Do not go too near Seal island, 
 on account of the rocky patch which lies to the southward of the island, 
 over which the sea will oftentimes break. The anchorage in Simon's bay 
 holds well, being sand and clay : it is here high water at half-after 3 o'clock, 
 full and change, and the rise of tide is seldom more than 3 feet, with very 
 little current at any time. 
 
 SIMON'S BAY may be considered a safe retreat for thirteen or fourteen 
 sail of ships, where they will be moored in security at all seasons, but, 
 being small, it cannot contain a numerous fleet, sheltered from S. E. winds. 
 
 * By a notice, dated Cape of Good Hope, 22nd April, 1843, signed H. G. DUNSTERVILLE, 
 Harbour-master, it appears that a beacon has been placed to point out the position of the 
 above rock. It is a black spar, with a red board across the top, and the words " Eoman rock " 
 painted on it ; and floats about 7 feet above the surface, and nearly upright. As it is moored 
 some distance, say 40 fathoms, inside, or western extremity* of the rock, it leaves between 
 the beacon and the shore a safe and commodious passage ; but any vessel passing in 
 the outside, or eastward of the beacon, is particularly recommended not to approach nearer 
 the beacon than three-quarters of a mile.
 
 183 
 
 The best situation to lie in, is to bring Noah's ark and False cape in one, 
 bearing S. S. E. ^ E. (S. E. by E.), the Roman rocks S. E. E., distant 
 2 miles, and the south or east point of the bay S. S. E. ^ E. (S. E. by E.) 
 In this berth, you will be distant about one mile from the shore, and well 
 sheltered from all quarters. If bound to the eastward out of Simon's bay, 
 leave it as soon as the north-westerly winds begin to blow ; but if you in- 
 tend to sail to the westward, you must wait till the north-westerly winds 
 are on their decline, and get under sail on the road, so soon as those 
 winds shift from W. N. W. to West, for, as they most commonly veer from 
 thence successively to S. W., South, and S. E., they will prove fair for 
 doubling the Cape of Good Hope, and lying up afterwards to N. W. The 
 only directions to be given for leaving the bay is to reverse those for 
 entering it. 
 
 GORDON'S BAY is situated to the N. E. of False bay, and affords good 
 shelter from S. E. and Northerly winds, and has several fair landing-places, 
 from half-flood to half-ebb, but at no other time of the tide, excepting at 
 the bar, which is formed by a bank of sand, and cannot damage the bottom 
 of the boat : this bank has generally about two feet water over it, but at 
 low water, spring tides, it is perfectly dry. The other landing-places are 
 shewn on the chart, and with S. E. winds are smooth ; but you must al- 
 ways be attentive to the tide. Within the lower dotted line on the chart 
 is good anchoring ground, holding well, being of course brown sand ; here 
 vessels may anchor in from 13 to 15 fathoms, with the peak of Hangklip 
 just open to the southward of the south point of Gordon's bay, and with 
 the upper farm-house open to the left of the lower farm-house ; small ves- 
 sels may ride further in, where the inner anchor is placed in good security, 
 the capes being completely shut in, Gordon's bay south point effectually 
 keeping off the sea. To ships working out of Simon's bay, Gordon's bay 
 will afford ready shelter on the approach of night, for they can stretch into 
 the outer part of it, and anchor for the night, well in shore, with a kedge 
 or stream anchor ; for it is generally observed, that when the wind blows 
 strong from the S. E. at the anchorage in Simon's bay, and other parts of 
 False bay, a ship will not have advanced half a mile within Gordon's outer 
 bluff before she will get into a light breeze, scarcely sufficient to carry her 
 to the anchorage : here she may lie until daylight ; then weighing and 
 stretching out into the true wind, and work out either round the Cape of 
 Good Hope, or Cape Hangklip. 
 
 Gordon's bay will prove equally safe and advantageous for vessels 
 standing in for Simon's bay late in the evening, and not considering it safe 
 to run for anchorage there ; for then they may stand over for Gordon's 
 bay, and anchor for the night : they cannot mistake it, the land in the 
 front, when standing to the eastward, being so very remarkable. This 
 might easily be made a good place for shipping, for on each side of the bar 
 are rocks, with plenty of large loose stones about them, and by piling up 
 these stones upon the rocks, a pier might be constructed to any distance 
 out ; and if a swinging crane was erected on the south pier, it would con- 
 siderably facilitate the lading and unlading of the boats. The same plan 
 might be pursued with the bay northward of the fort. All the landing- 
 places afford plenty of water, running down in streams, but the best is 
 near the fish-house : here, although the passage is difficult and intricate, it 
 has a spacious beach, well defended from the sea, by reefs running in op- 
 posite directions, the only obstacle being the delay for the tide. Fruits, 
 vegetables, and stock can be had here, but not expeditiously, as it must be 
 brought from a considerable distance. 
 
 The whole eastern coast of False bay, from Gordon's bay to Cape
 
 184 
 
 Hangklip, wears a dismal inhospitable appearance ; it is one continual 
 rocky chain, and scarcely approachable. Colebrook bay, so named in con- 
 sequence of the wreck of the Colebrook, is to the southward of Gordon's 
 bay ; and further southward is Pringle's bay, where Admiral Pringle is 
 said to have landed. 
 
 From October to April, though south-easterly winds commonly prevail, 
 yet they seldom continue longer than 5 or 6 days at a time, being con- 
 stantly succeeded by winds that are variable ; it therefore sometimes hap- 
 pens that these winds, after blowing strong for the day and night, will 
 cease towards morning, and be followed by a breeze from the W. N. W. 
 If this temporary change can be taken advantage of, a ship may, by 
 weighing directly it comes on, get out to sea before the south-easterly 
 wind returns again ; but should she be unable to clear out of the bay, it 
 will be prudent to return again to the anchorage in Simon's bay. 
 
 The Cape of Good Hope is frequently the boundary of different weathers; 
 homeward-bound vessels very often experience variable winds and cloudy 
 weather to the eastward of the Cape ; while to the westward of the Cape, 
 there will be settled weather, and a steady south-easterly wind, particularly 
 in the summer season. 
 
 TIDES. It is high water, on the full and change of the moon, at Benin 
 river, at 6 o'clock ; Rough corner, at the entrance of New Calabar, at 5 : 
 tides rise 9 feet. At the entrance of Old Calabar, at 6 : rise 6 feet. Cape 
 St. John and entrance of the river Gaboon, at 5 : rise 7 feet. Off the Ca- 
 labar and Bonny rivers, the tide flows in the stream, or offing, till 6 hours. 
 Corisco bay at 5 o'clock : rise 7 feet. George bay, in Fernando Po, at half- 
 past 4 : rise between 7 and 8 feet. Clarence cove at 4 : rise 7 feet. At 
 Prince's island the tide rises and falls from 4 to 7 feet. It is high water at 
 St. Paul de Loando, at half-past 4 : tides rise 5 feet. In the mouth of the 
 river Coanza the rise is 8 feet ; Walwich bay at 2 o'clock. Springs rise at 
 Angra Pequena between 7 and 8 feet ; at Elizabeth bay 6 feet. It is high 
 water at St. Helen's bay at half-past 2 : Saldanha bay at 2 : rise 6 to 7 feet. 
 At Table bay at 20 minutes after 2 : rise about 5 feet. At Simon's bay, 
 half-past 3 : rise 3 feet. 
 
 The VARIATION on the COAST OP AFRICA is as follows : New Calabar 
 river, 20 7' W.; Old Calabar, 20 3'; Fernando Po, 23; Corisco bay, 
 20 30' ; Cape Lopez, 21 ; River Congo, 21 42' ; St. Paul de Loando, 
 20 ; Cape Negro, 23 ; Walwich bay, 23 ; Cape Frio, 24 ; Angra Pe- 
 quena, 26 ; St. Helen's bay, 28 ; Table bay, 28.
 
 185 
 
 SECTION VII. 
 
 ISLANDS, ROCKS, AND DANGERS, IN THE SOUTH 
 ATLANTIC OCEAN. 
 
 The Notes referred to will be found subjoined. 
 
 NAMES. 
 
 SOUTH 
 LAT. 
 
 WEST 
 LONG. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Silhouette Vigia, 
 
 DEO. MIN. 
 20 
 
 DEO. MIN. 
 
 20 50 
 
 A dangerotts shoal. Vide Note 1. 
 
 Aquila Reef, 
 
 22 
 
 21 6 
 
 Supposed to be the above. Note 2. 
 
 Bouvet Sandy Island, 
 Triton Bank, 
 
 23 
 32 
 
 19 10 
 17 46 
 
 Seen in 1761. Note 3. 
 Passed over by the ship Triton, in 
 
 Shoal of Manoel Luis, 
 Crown Reef, 
 
 52 
 57 
 
 44 15 
 23 19 
 
 1816. Vide Note 4. 
 A cluster of conical rocks. Note 5. 
 Barque Crown, 1835. Note 6. 
 
 Prince's Shoal, 
 
 1 35 
 
 17 50 
 
 Ship Le Prince, 1747. Note 7. 
 
 Submarine Volcano, . . . 
 Fernando de Noron- ) 
 ha, the Pyramid,.. J 
 The Roccas, 
 
 2 30 
 3 50 
 3 55 
 
 20 44 
 32 25^ 
 33 43 
 
 Seen in 1806. Vide Note 8. 
 A remarkable island. Note 9. 
 Low sandy island. Note 10. 
 
 Ascension Island, ) 
 the Barrack. f 
 
 7 55| 
 
 14 25^ 
 
 Vide Note 11. 
 
 St. Helena, the Ob- \ 
 servatory, J 
 
 15 55 
 
 5 42| 
 
 The sequestered spot to which Bona- 
 parte was consigned as an exile. 
 
 Bank of Antonio Viana 
 Martin Vas Rocks, ) 
 the Central, f 
 
 17 30 
 20 28 
 
 8 15 
 28 41 
 
 Note 12. 
 A dangerous shoal. Note 13. 
 Three high and barren islands. Vide 
 Note 14. 
 
 Congress Bank, 
 
 20 30 
 
 37 30 
 
 A bank of soundings. Note 1 5. 
 
 Isle of Trinidad, 
 
 20 31 
 
 29 21 
 
 A high and uneven island. Note 1 6- 
 
 Island Ascensao, .... 
 
 20 36 
 
 34 34 
 
 Doubtful. Note 17. 
 
 Columbus, or Sax- ) 
 emburgh Island,., j 
 
 Grant Breakers, 
 
 30 18 
 31 33 
 
 28 20 
 11 30 
 
 Very doubtful. Note 18. 
 Position not accurately ascertained. 
 
 Laurel Shoal, 
 
 36 28 
 
 51 30 
 
 Note 19. 
 Discovered in 1822. Note 20. 
 
 Trista da Cunha, the \ 
 Waterfall, j 
 
 37 6 
 
 12 3 
 
 A circular island, terminating in a 
 peak. Note 21. 
 
 Inaccessible Island ; \ 
 Centre, j 
 
 37 19 
 
 12 23 
 
 On which the Blenden Hall was 
 wrecked in 1821 Note 22. 
 
 Lennon's Reef, 
 
 37 31 
 
 4 42 
 
 Seen in 1817 Vide Note 23. 
 
 Robson Reef, 
 
 37 35 
 
 7 30 
 
 Doubtful. Note 24. 
 
 Telemaque Rock, ) 
 Central Breakers, J 
 Ariel Rocks, 
 
 37 57 
 40 1 
 
 23 
 
 57 37 
 
 Position doubtful. Note 25. 
 Seen in 1827. Note 26. 
 
 Gough's Island, 
 
 40 20 
 
 9 45 
 
 4,380 feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 Isla Grande... 
 
 * * 
 
 * * 
 
 Note 27. 
 Verv doubtful. Note 28. 
 
 A A
 
 186 
 
 NAMES. 
 
 SOUTH 
 LAT. 
 
 WEST 
 LONG. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Bouvet, or Circum- ) 
 cision Island, J 
 
 L' Aigle Shoal, 
 
 DBG. MIX. 
 
 54 16 
 51 51 
 
 DBO. MIX. 
 
 6 14 
 
 64 30 
 
 Discovered by Monsieur Bouvet. 
 Vide Note 29. 
 Said to be seen in 1817, but unsuc- 
 cessfully sought for in 1819, 1820, 
 
 Aurora Isles, 
 
 * * 
 
 * * 
 
 1821, 1823, and 1824. Note 30. 
 Not in existence. Note 31. 
 
 The Shag Rocks. .. 
 
 53 48 
 
 43 25 
 
 In appearance like sugar-loaves. 
 
 o 
 
 Kain's Islet, 
 
 54 9 
 
 59 36 
 
 Note 32. 
 Doubtful. Vide Note 33. 
 
 Pottinger's Bank, 
 
 54 36 
 
 57 49 
 
 Passed over in Jan. 1 822. Note 34. 
 
 Alexander Island, 
 
 68 57 
 
 73 
 
 Discovered in 1821. ) r 
 
 Peter Island.... 
 
 68 
 
 91 
 
 Ditto. \Note35. 
 
 NOTES ON THE PRECEDING TABLE. 
 
 1. SILHOUETTE VIGIA. On the 5th of February, 1754, the 
 people on board the ship Silhouette, commanded by M. Pintault, felt a 
 shock, or violent agitation, as if the vessel had touched upon a shoal. It 
 was then about 5 p. m., and from the latitude taken by that very day's 
 observation, this dangerous spot should be 20' to the southward of the line, 
 in about 20 50' TV. longitude, according to their reckoning, which they 
 traced upon the French chart, from the road of Praya, in the isle of St. 
 Jago. On the 13th April, 1758, the frigate La Fidele, M. Le Houx, 
 commander, felt the like shocks, in 20' S. latitude, and 18 0' TV. 
 longitude. 
 
 2. AQUILA REEF. On the 12th April, 1831, the Aquila, of Scar- 
 bro', Captain John Taylor, was in latitude 22' 15" S., and in longitude 
 21 6' 30" TV., light winds, and fine pleasant weather. At 40' p. m., the 
 water being very smooth, and the ship going at the rate of 5 knots, a loud 
 rumbling noise was heard under her bottom, and a sensation felt, exactly 
 like that of a vessel sliding over a rock ; the rudder was so much agitated, 
 that the man who was steering could scarcely hold the wheel. No differ- 
 ence could be observed in the colour of the water, nor the smallest rippling. 
 The situation of the Aquila is very near the Silhouette, above described. 
 
 3. BOUVET SANDY ISLE. On the 3rd May, 1761, Le Vaillant, 
 Captain Bouvet, about 1 p. m., saw a small sandy island, which bore N. 
 by E. The latitude, by the reckoning at noon, was about 23' S., and their 
 longitude, reckoned from the sight of Ferro island, which they made on the 
 8th April, was about 19 10' TV. 
 
 4. TRITON'S BANK. On the 18th December, 1816, Captain Proud- 
 foot, in the ship Triton, passed over this shoal. It appeared to extend in 
 an E. and TV. direction, 3 miles, and in a N. and S. direction, one mile ; 
 sounded in 23 fathoms, brown sand, saw no appearance of breakers. 
 
 5. SHOAL OF MANOEL LUIS. This shoal lies off Maranham, 
 in latitude 52' 27" S., and longitude 44 13' TV. It extends more than 
 half a mile across from N. to S., but not less than 3 miles in an E. by S. 
 and TV. by N. direction. It is formed by a cluster of conical rocks, whose 
 heads are just beneath the surface of low tides, having small openings of 
 deep water (8 to 10, and 17 fathoms) between them, which renders it the 
 more dangerous, as, in case of striking thereon, a vessel would most pro- 
 bably go down immediately ; the utmost precaution, therefore, is necessary,
 
 187 
 
 in order to avoid this danger, as it shows itself occasionally at low tides, and 
 then but slightly. It is high water on the reef, on the full and change, at 
 5 hours, when the tides rise 12 feet, the flood setting S. W., and the ebb 
 N. E., at the rate of three-fifths of a mile in an hour. 
 
 6. CROWN REEF. The barque Crown, of Liverpool, bound to 
 Bombay, struck upon something, which was supposed to be a reef, on the 
 night of the 9th February, 1835. After crossing the equator, with a 
 pleasant breeze at E S. E., carrying fore-topmast studding-sail, going 6| 
 knots, at 10 h. 45 m., touched the ground, and grated with the keel, as if 
 passing over a coral reef. So soon as clear, the boat was lowered down, 
 but no bottom was found at the depth of 120 fathoms. The latitude of the 
 spot was 57' S., and the mean longitude, by chronometer and lunars, 
 23 19' W. (Nautical Magazine, 1835, page 577.} 
 
 7. PRINCE'S SHOAL. On the 17th October, 1747, the ship Le 
 Prince, Captain Beaubriant, in its passage to India, felt one or two shocks, 
 as if it had struck upon a shelf. She was at that time in latitude 1 35' S., 
 and longitude 17 50' W., reckoned from the sight they had of the Isle of 
 Brava. 
 
 8. SUBMARINE VOLCANO. On the 19th May, 1806, Admiral 
 Krusenstern saw in the direction of N. N. W., and at the distance of 12 
 or 15 miles, a singular phenomenon, but which, owing to the lateness of 
 the day, was unable to examine sufficiently close to ascertain the nature 
 of it. A cloud of smoke arose to about the height of a ship's mast, dis- 
 appeared suddenly, then rose again, and vanished entirely. It could not 
 be a water-spout, nor a ship on fire, as some persons on board conceived ; 
 for the smoke rose much too high, and was of opinion, that if the whole 
 was not an ocular deception, occasioned by a peculiar refraction of the 
 rays of light, it had all the appearance of a volcanic eruption, and was 
 possibly the forerunner of an island. 
 
 9. FERNANDO DE NORONH A. This island has frequently been 
 visited by ships bound to India, occasioned by the currents having set them 
 to the westward, after the failure of the N. E. trade-wind. It is a re- 
 markable island, and is readily known by a high rocky peak, called the 
 Pyramid, very barren and rugged, which seems to lead to the eastward, 
 when it bears S. S. W., and by its S. W. point, which is perforated, and 
 gives a free passage to the sea, and therefore, by some, called the Hole in 
 the Wall. Off" this point, at a considerable distance, lies a sunken rock,, 
 which is dangerous to approach. From the S. E. part of the island, named 
 Tobacco point, a reef extends to seaward a considerable distance ; and a 
 rocky patch, on which the sea always breaks, lies 2^ or 3 miles S. E. by S. 
 from this point, and nearly 3| miles S. j W. from the east point. There is 
 a channel of 10 to 15 fathoms water within this patch, and when on it, the 
 Pyramid will be shut in by the highest hill. 
 
 FERNANDO DE NORONHA is about 7 miles in length, and 2, or 2^ miles 
 broad. It produces black cattle, sheep, poultry, melons, corn, &c. It is 
 inhabited by Portuguese exiles, and has a strong garrison, and all the little 
 sandy bays and anchoring places are defended by forts. The road is on the 
 north side, near the N. E. end of the island, and the anchorage is tolerably 
 good in 9 to 13 fathoms water, at about half a mile from shore, with the 
 Pyramid bearing from S. S. W. to S. W. It is quite exposed to northerly 
 and westerly winds, which are said to prevail here from December to April ; 
 at other times they are mostly S. E. or westerly, and sometimes at N. E. 
 The surf is frequently high, and at such times thefe is no landing. Fresh 
 water may be procured from a well near the governor's house, but it is a 
 scarce article in the dry season, and cannot always be got off from the shore,
 
 188 
 
 on account of the surf. On the south side of the island, to the eastward 
 of Tobacco point, is a small bay, called the Port, fit for boats only, where 
 it is said fresh water may be procured from a rivulet. 
 
 The currents generally run strong to the westward, therefore the necessity 
 of approaching the road by Rat or Wooding island is obvious. Rat island 
 is about ITJ mile in length, and lies about 1 mile from the N. E. end of Fer- 
 nando de Noronha. It produces grass and fire wood, with some wild goats ; 
 but the wood will sink if thrown into the water, and there is great risk in 
 staving the boat while getting it off from the rocks. The tide rises about 
 6 feet, and flows, on full and change days of the moon, until 4 o'clock. 
 
 10. THE ROCCAS lie about 50 miles to the westward of Fernando 
 de Noronha ; they are low sandy islands, apparently connected together by 
 a reef, nearly level with the edge of the sea. These cannot be seen, even 
 from the mast-head, in the clearest weather, for more than 3 leagues ; they 
 are surrounded with breakers, projecting out at the north and south ends 
 of the shoal, their extent being 5 miles. Vessels passing between Fernando 
 de Noronha and the Brazil coast, at night, must be particularly careful to 
 avoid these dangers, for they have proved fatal to many. Within two 
 miles of their western extremity were found 28 fathoms, coral rock, and 
 the current sets over them to the westward, at the rate of 2| miles an 
 hour. 
 
 11. ASCENSION ISLAND is of an oval form, 7| miles long, and 6 
 wide. Like all the islands in the Atlantic, it is of a volcanic origin, pre- 
 senting a surface of rugged conical hills, of different sorts of lava, from 200 
 to 300 feet in height, some of them with perfect craters. At the eastern 
 part of the island is a double-peaked mountain, of gritty tufaceous lime- 
 stone, which rises to the height of 2,818 feet, and, from its comparatively 
 verdant appearance, has obtained the name of Green mountain. The 
 whole island is of a naked, desolate character, with a vast quantity of rocks 
 lying upon each other in a very irregular way, with great chasms between 
 them, and strewed with scoriae, pumice, and other volcanic substances, so 
 that one might as well walk over broken glass bottles. The sea-coast is 
 alternately of a black nitrous lava, and of white beaches, formed by the 
 pulverization of coral and shells, with calcined stones as light as dust. 
 There are, however, about the middle of the island, between the hills, se- 
 veral little plains, divided into small spaces, and so remarkably distributed 
 as to appear like parcels of land cleared of stones, and separated by walls. 
 
 The island was discovered by Joao de Nova Galego, in 1501, and is said 
 to derive its present name from having been seen on Ascension day. It 
 was then entirely barren and uninhabited ; not a shrub was seen, and the 
 only vegetation which it produced was some coarse grasses, ferns, purslain, 
 a species of convolvulus, and a milk-thistle. There were goats, rats, mice, 
 land crabs, and some few insects on the island. It was also much fre- 
 quented by sea-fowl, such as the frigate and tropic birds, tern, boobies, and 
 gannet, with whose nests the lower part of the island was covered ; being 
 hitherto undisturbed by man, they suffered themselves to be knocked down 
 with sticks, or even laid hold of while sitting on their eggs. Turtle were 
 found in great abundance, and the bay afforded a plentiful supply offish 
 cavalies, old- wives, conger-eels, and rock-cod ; in consequence of which, the 
 island was much frequented by homeward-bound vessels from the Cape of 
 Good Hope and the East Indies. It was also a great resort for smuggling- 
 vessels from our American colonies, who used to meet the Indiamen here, 
 on their return home. It was long supposed to be without any stream or 
 spring of fresh water whatever ; but small springs have since been dis- 
 covered, and have obtained the name of Dampier's springs, from that
 
 189 
 
 celebrated navigator having been cast away here, on his return from New 
 Holland. 
 
 In 1815, during the confinement of Napoleon at St. Helena, the British 
 government took possession of Ascension, as a military station, and main- 
 tained on it a garrison, consisting of a naval lieutenant, as governor, with 
 60 officers, seamen, and marines, who fortified the island with 17 guns, the 
 greater number at English Road, where they erected barracks and store- 
 houses of the compact lava, (the pulverized coral on the beach forming 
 excellent cement) and contrived to cultivate small gardens, and rear some 
 live stock. A look-out station was established on Green mountain, where 
 a small spring was discovered, which soon yielded an average daily supply 
 of about 140 gallons. 
 
 In 1821, the establishment was changed to a major of marines, as gover- 
 nor, with a staff" of officers, and a party of about 200 privates, most of 
 whom were artificers and labourers, with a number of liberated Africans. 
 From the attention and exertion of the garrison, the island is now in a 
 state of progressive improvement as to its resources, natural and artificial. 
 Roads have been made, and iron pipes laid down, to convey the water from 
 the springs (an operation that used to be performed by asses and mules) 
 to the fort, near which a large tank has been excavated, capable of con- 
 taining 1,700 tons, by which it is hoped that a supply of water may always 
 be obtained sufficient for a squadron. Pasturage is rapidly making its ap- 
 pearance. There is a moderate supply of cattle and sheep, which, with 
 turkeys, guinea-fowl, and almost every description of live stock, thrive 
 well ; geese and ducks, however, succeed but indifferently, owing to the 
 want of fresh-water streams and pools. The wild goats, to the number of 
 about 600, are allowed to wander in herds, feeding on the herbage they can 
 procure, amongst which are some aromatic herbs, which give a peculiarly 
 fine flavour to the mutton. During the season, which is between February 
 and July, when the turtle come ashore for the purpose of depositing their 
 eggs, parties are stationed on the beach, to turn as many as are likely to be 
 required before the next season, which are afterwards kept in a large salt- 
 water pond, to be taken out at pleasure. Their general weight is from 
 400 to 700 Ibs. 
 
 In order to destroy the rats, with which the island was overrun, a num- 
 ber of cats were introduced, which, however, multiplying and becoming 
 wild, proved very destructive to the young fowls and rabbits, so that the 
 garrison have been compelled to call to their assistance a colony of bull- 
 terriers, to wage war on their combined enemies of the feline tribe. 
 Guinea-fowl are very abundant ; partridges, pigeons, and rabbits, from the 
 Cape of Good Hope, with other species of game, have been imported, and the 
 horse has lately been added to the list of their useful and domestic animals. 
 
 On the Green mountain, above the height of 2,000 feet, all sterility 
 ceases ; the soil is a rich mould, yielding sweet potatoes, Cape gooseberries, 
 onions, carrots, peas, beans, cabbages, radishes, and, in short, almost every 
 species of esculent vegetables : there are at present upwards of 70 acres 
 under cultivation. In the valleys also, where the soil offers any prospect 
 of success, spots are set apart for the cultivation of vegetables. Several 
 kinds of fruit have been successfully tried, and thus an island, which was 
 once a desert cinder, now yields most useful vegetable productions ; and as 
 the climate is exceedingly healthy, it is obvious that this establishment 
 will repay the liberal attention that has been bestowed upon it, by affording 
 an eligible rendezvous, and depot of stores and provisions, for any squadron 
 destined either for the coast of Africa or Brazil. Including civil officers, 
 the expense of the establishment is 10,400 per annum.
 
 190 
 
 The Anchorage, though an open bay, is perfectly safe, and the island is 
 never visited by gales of wind, but a heavy surf rolls on the beach, which 
 sometimes interrupts the communication with the shore for days together. 
 There is no regular tide, and the rise and fall is very trifling. On 
 Green mountain the annual range of Fahrenheit's thermometer is from 
 58 to 82. 
 
 MR. WILLIAM WALKER, Queens Harbour Master, gives the following 
 description of this island. Copied from the Nautical Magazine for 1841, 
 page 691. " The island is of an elliptical form, its greatest diameter 
 from east to west being seven miles and five-eights, and its shortest from 
 north to south, five miles and a half The area of its base, at the surface 
 of the sea, is 38 square miles, and its circumference about 22 miles. 
 
 " ASCENSION is of volcanic origin, and of comparatively recent formation, 
 its surface being exceedingly irregular, and presenting, from the sea, a bar- 
 ren and forbidding appearance. The highest peak on Green mountain is 
 elevated 2,805 feet above the sea, and may therefore be seen, from a 
 frigate's deck, at the distance of 65 miles. The latitude of the summit is, 
 from several observations, 7 57' 22" S. ; and if the longitude of the fort 
 be 14 24', that of the peak will be 14 19'. From the summit of Green 
 mountain about 40 tumuli may be seen, of different magnitudes, being ex- 
 tinguished craters, which have, at different periods of the volcanoes, actually 
 given vent to its fires. From many of these craters one may trace dis- 
 tinctly the direction of the lava currents, on their way to the sea. 
 
 " The principal cultivation is on and about Green mountain, where it 
 rains more frequently than on the less elevated parts of the island. The 
 principal garden is 2,500 feet above the sea : here the climate is delightful, 
 the temperature during the day-time being generally about 74, that at 
 the landing-place near the fort being 85. The temperature on the peak is 
 still lower ; my thermometer, exposed to the current of air sweeping over 
 the peak, fell to 60, this was at one p. M., the instrument being in the 
 shade, and the sun shining at the time. The summit of Green mountain 
 is covered with rock-roses and several species of fern and mosses, indi- 
 genous to the island. 
 
 " The climate of Ascension is perhaps as healthy as in any part of the 
 world; and its salubrity is no doubt owing to the constant trade- wind 
 blowing in a moderate breeze, ventilating and cooling every part of the 
 island ; the dryness of the air, and the absence of marsh or moist soils, 
 contribute to the elasticity and buoyancy of the air, and renders the island 
 a most desirable spot for an invalid, who might be transported from Tartar 
 stairs to the mountain in two hours, the distance being 7 miles, from a 
 temperature of 84 to one of 74. Abundance of purslane grows among 
 the rocks, stones, and crevices of the cliffs. This vegetable is eaten by the 
 cattle, and is capable of keeping them alive and in tolerable condition, as 
 was evident from a bullock making his escape, and being absent five or six 
 months, during which time he had nothing to eat but purslane. 
 
 " The weather side of the island is high and inaccessible, with an iron- 
 bound coast, and deep water. No part of the coast is accessible from S. W. 
 bay, round the south point of the island, and as far as N. E. bay. From 
 the south point of S. W. bay, and along the lee side of the island to 
 English bay, there is an excellent anchorage in from 10 to 20 fathoms 
 water, sand and mud, within the distance of 6 miles. Three hundred sail 
 might be anchored at the distance of 100 fathoms from each other; for 
 although the coast from the fort, round to S. W. bay, be rocky, with foul 
 ground, extending about half a mile into the sea, as marked on the chart, 
 yet I found the bottom perfectly clear without the depth of 10 fathoms.
 
 191 
 
 " The coast to leeward of the island is bold and clear, from English bay 
 to the fort near Tartar stairs. About a mile to the N. E. of the fort, there 
 is a small bay, with a spot of sand on it, on which a boat may land, among 
 wild and irregular climpers : this spot has been dignified by the name of 
 Comfort Cove, and extolled very much above its real merit. From the foot 
 of Fort Cockburne, round to the westward as far as S. W. bay, the coast is, 
 as has been already observed, rocky. The reef runs out about seven-tenths 
 of a mile from the fort, in a N. W. direction ; it is composed of uneven 
 masses of hard pointed lava, with spots of white sand in the hollow places. 
 There are many of these pointed rocks on which a ship would strike, and 
 on some of which ships have actually struck ; and to prevent such acci- 
 dents for the future, a large buoy is now moored near the extremity of the 
 reef, on a rock, having 30 feet water on it. The following are its marks: 
 The flagstaff on the fort in a line with the N. E. corner of the jetty, near 
 the crane at Tartar stairs, and the peak of Green mountain just touching 
 the edge of Red-cross hill. Should the buoy be gone, by keeping in 10 
 fathoms, a ship will avoid all the dangers on the reef. 
 
 " It sometimes happens that a very heavy swell sets in from the south- 
 westward, occasioned by gales of wind, without the limits of the trade- 
 winds, in the South Atlantic. The long swell rolling in against the wind, 
 and meeting with shoal water and the uneven rocky bottom of the reef, 
 breaks high, and with violence sweeping away thousands of tons of sand 
 from the beach into deep water ; this sand is again thrown on shore in 
 fine smooth water. These rollers are heaviest when the sun is in the 
 northern hemisphere ; and storms and tempests in the South Atlantic, in 
 the neighbourhood of Cape Horn. 
 
 " Two pair of moorings are laid down near the landing-place, for the 
 use of H. M. ships ; one pair abreast of the middle of the sandy bay, to 
 the eastward of the fort, and as near the weather shore as possible. The 
 groundwork is line-of-battle ship's chain, and the bridles are tapered from 
 Bne-of-battle ship's chain to sloop's ; the small end being suspended to the 
 buoy, for the convenience of being taken without lighters. The other pair 
 is laid down near the edge of the reef, one of the anchors being among the 
 rocks, thereby leaving the best of the anchorage unoccupied. At the 
 inner mooring, in case of necessity, one vessel might be hove down by 
 means of another. 
 
 " About half a mile inland from S. W. bay, and behind the lava currents, 
 lying near the beach, there is a tract of land of comparatively smooth surface, 
 and of considerable dimensions ; the soil is very rich, but so dry and dusty as 
 seldom to exhibit any other verdure than a little purslane. A little further 
 to the south-eastward, and behind some high conical hills, there is a sandy 
 plain, having an area of, perhaps, 20 or 30 acres. This level is surrounded 
 by the above-mentioned conical hills on the north, and on every other side 
 by high ridges of lava, through which the rains have worn finmari, or 
 water courses, by which considerable quantities of sand and pumice have 
 been discharged into the plain. I could trace, very distinctly, a line of 
 pumice and other floating materials on the foot of the hills, along the lee 
 side of the plain, left at the last high water mark, and shewing most 
 clearly that at times there has been a depth of several feet of fresh water 
 in the valley, a quantity sufficient to supply the island for many years. 
 This affords the strongest proof of the occasional heavy rains that must 
 fall at Ascension, and points out the propriety of constructing tanks in 
 eligible situations. 
 
 " The principal supply of fresh water is obtained on the Green mountain, 
 where there are several drips of water, which yield from 500 to 1,500
 
 192 
 
 gallons daily, according to the wetness of the season. The rain falling on 
 the mountain is absorbed by the porus and light soil, and descends by its 
 gravity till it meets with a thin stratum of pumice dust, which in the 
 course of time has been in a manner petrified ; this arrests the water in its 
 progress downwards, and, being generally inclined to the horizon, the 
 water glides along and appears on the surface of a cliff in the shape of a 
 spring. It is to be regretted that the strata above-mentioned are faulty in 
 so many places, that much water passes through the rents, and is lost in 
 the soil below. 
 
 " There are two very good stone tanks built in the mountain, in contact 
 with, and parallel to rocky cliffs. The surface of the rock has been cleaned 
 and gutters cut, by which means all the water that is not absolutely ab- 
 sorbed during rains, on a very considerable surface, must run into the tanks. 
 The tanks in the mountain are to be connected with others below, near 
 the landing place, at Tartar stairs, by means of cast iron pipes, the distance 
 between them being five miles." 
 
 ANCHORAGE OFF ASCENSION. Extract of a letter from Captain ffunt, 
 of the ship Atlas, dated 1 9th March, 1832, off the Isle of Wight. " The 
 Island of Ascension being both convenient and safe, for ships homeward- 
 bound, to approach, when in want of provisions,* water, or repairs, and 
 Captain Batet and the officers of that establishment most attentive and 
 ready to relieve the wants of ships of any nation, resorting thither ; and 
 their means to do so, and to render assistance, being superior to any other 
 place between the Cape of Good Hope and the ports of Europe, it is to be 
 regretted that accidents so frequently happen to vessels touching there. In 
 most cases I am persuaded they have occurred through want of knowledge 
 as to the position of the rock and reef lying to the N. "W. of the anchorage. 
 
 " The anchorage off Ascension is in Sandy bay ; a prominent rock, on 
 which is a fort, forming its western boundary. Ships may anchor in any 
 part of this bay, in moderate depths of water, as the bottom is clear, and 
 free from danger. 
 
 " Commanders of ships, coming from the eastern side of the island, 
 intending to anchor or cruize off the settlement, until they have obtained 
 supplies, must observe, that no safe anchorage can be found to the west- 
 ward of the fort, (above-named,) neither is the shore safe to approach 
 within a mile and a half of it, to the westward of that fort. 
 
 * The following letter is copied from the Nautical Magazine for 1839, page 167. "Mr. 
 EDITOR, An opinion prevails amongst ship-owners and masters generally, that vessels may 
 be supplied with provisions, such as heef, bread, &c., from the government stores in the 
 Island of Ascension. Such opinion, however, is contrary to fact ; for on calling there on my 
 passage home from Singapore, in July last, (1838,) Captain Evans (commandant) informed 
 me, that, 'only in cases of extreme want or distress, was any provision to he supplied to 
 vessels calling there.' Nor is water to be had in such an abundance as I was led to believe ; 
 one gallon, per man, per diem, allowing the passage from there to England to be 42 days, was 
 all that could be spared to the Trinculo. Government has fixed the price of Turtle at 50s., 
 per large and small, which you will perceive is 20s. more than the price stated in page 299 
 of the second volume of the Nautical Magazine. Thus you see that there is no inducement 
 to ship-masters to give the preference to Ascension over St. Helena. It is but justice to add, 
 that the commandant and officers, at the former island, appear to be most anxious and willing 
 to oblige those who call there, as far as their limited means will admit. Should you deem any 
 part of the above worth inserting in the Nautical Magazine, for the information of my brother 
 ' wanderers on the deep,' the majority of whom, perhaps, are not aware of the recent regulation, 
 it will oblige, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 JAMES R. REA." 
 
 + This gentleman and several of his people fell a victim to fever, which broke out here 
 in 1838.
 
 193 
 
 " The best guide to clear the reef and rock, lying to the N. W. of the 
 anchorage, (and on which so many vessels have grounded) is to keep the 
 houses and barracks open to the eastward of the fort, and never to shut 
 them all in with, nor open them to the westward of the fort, unless the 
 distance from the land be at least a mile and a half. In the latter case 
 they would be in great danger of striking on the reef above-mentioned, 
 the spit, or rocks, of which lie nearly a mile from the nearest point of 
 the shore. 
 
 " A buoy, chequered black and white, is to be laid on the spit. When 
 this buoy can be seen, a vessel should never pass to the westward of it, 
 unless her distance from the land be at least one and a half mile. The 
 sea does not always break upon this rock, but there is always a consider- 
 able swell passing over it. 
 
 " Ships approaching Sandy bay, from the western side of the island, 
 must be careful not to get nearer to the land than a mile and a half, until the 
 houses and barracks be opened to the eastward of the fort. They may 
 then stand into Sandy bay, to their own depths, free from all danger. 
 
 " By attention to the above observations, it will be impossible for ships 
 to meet with accidents, for on all other parts of the island the coast is bold, 
 and may be approached to within a cable's length. 
 
 REMARKS OF COMMANDER FISHBOTJRNE, H. M. STEAM- VESSEL ALB AN. 
 Nautical Magazine for 1 843, page 158. " Vessels steering for the anchorage 
 of Ascension should haul round the north side of it, and keep at such a 
 distance as to prevent being becalmed, until they open the anchorage, 
 when they should keep close along shore. By this means they will fetch 
 into a good berth without tacking. It is not advisable to bring Cross hill, 
 on which is the semaphore, to the eastward of S. S. E. | E. ; for though 
 you might do so, and be still clear of the foul ground, you would be within 
 the influence of the rollers, which sometimes break a mile N. N. W. of the 
 western extremity of the bay, roll over the foul ground, and so agitate the 
 water, on the anchorage side, as to render it highly imprudent to allow of a 
 loaded boat lying alongside. 
 
 " Vessels making the land, towards nightfall, ought to keep well in 
 by the north end of the island before dark, taking the bearing of the 
 Three Sisters' hill, easily known by there being four prominent stones on 
 its summit. This hill has been mistaken for Cross hill, and in consequence 
 a very dangerous berth taken, which the vessel was obliged to weigh 
 from immediately, and not without apprehension that a flaw might cast 
 her on the rocks, which were quite close. Having made the Sisters, stand 
 on until Cross hill opens, haul close along shore, without apprehension, till 
 Cross hill bears S. S. E., and anchor in 9 or 10 fathoms. Cross hill, in the 
 centre of the sandy bay, may be a better direction, as the difference of 
 compasses may throw a vessel into a bad berth, from its proximity to the 
 foul ground. AVater is to be obtained readily here, and seldom without 
 fail. Many vessels are supplied even when the rollers are in. 
 
 " The rollers are said to be very capricious in their rise and progress, 
 but this assertion, I think, will fall before continued observation ; and my 
 experience of eight months tends to shew that they render, to reason, a 
 sign of their coming, if not a solution of their cause. A distant ripple, 
 extending itself to N. W., from the extremes of land, was visible from any 
 part of the bay, or island, appearing to arise from the water outside of the 
 island being higher than that within the bay. 
 
 " This ripple was apparent from the middle of February to August, and 
 of greatest amount in May and June, and seems to be the result of a 
 N. N. Westerly current, which runs during these months. This current 
 
 B B
 
 194 
 
 divides at the southern extremity of the isLand, passing along either side, 
 and forms the rollers which flow laterally into the several bays of the 
 island, the southern extremity of each bay preventing a direct inflow. 
 Thence the direction of the roller must depend upon the position of the 
 bay, wkh respect to the current. 
 
 " They commence, however, generally from a direction as far to the 
 southward as the southern extreme of each bay will admit of, from which 
 direction, subsiding as they alter their direction or sweep round the point 
 of the bay, they disappear about five points north of their first direction. 
 They commence in February, and become more frequent and heavy in 
 May and June, after which they are less in size and frequency, and cease 
 in September. I have been told that rollers come in from the north in 
 December. This, however, is rare, but they are then quite as high, if not 
 higher than at any other period. 
 
 " While I believe the direction to be correctly stated, I think the height 
 exaggerated, it being estimated from the effect upon the pier, which ef- 
 fect must always be greater, all other things equal, than from any other 
 direction, on account of the more direct action, the pier being open most 
 to waves from N. to N. W., the foul ground breaking their force when 
 from the westward. 
 
 " The rollers were generally preceded by light and variable winds, and 
 followed by an increase of trade- wind, (considerable when the rollers were 
 highest) and an extremely attenuated atmosphere, so transparent, that 
 the Green mountain certainly appeared but half its distance from the an- 
 chorage, and this without any increase of moisture. Once there was con- 
 siderate moisture, the mountain appeared then still nearer, and the 
 rollers were accompanied, if not preceded by rain. Attention to these in- 
 dications enabled me to predict the coming rollers ; and though I inferred 
 corresponding barometric changes, I was not surprised at the apparently 
 insufficient differences, on account of the many circumstances attending to 
 vitiate the apparent unconnected, if not corrected results. For instance, 
 the mountain being on the weather side of the island, and the bay on the 
 lee, the clouds condensed by the mountain pass over the bay in dense 
 masses, assuming a singular constant triangular shape, during the afore- 
 mentioned months, the apex of the triangle being in the N. W., though 
 the tide may be in some measure corrected, for when regular, its height 
 is too irregularly modified by the rollers to admit of a correction. The 
 concentrated heat in the bay, modified by the direction and force of the 
 wind, producing a greater or less increase of elasticity, all tend to vitiate 
 barometric results. 
 
 " The following may go far to elucidate the causes of the above- 
 mentioned effects. Lieutenant Bold, in his African Guide, says, ' that the 
 currents have northing or southing in proportion as the trades incline to- 
 wards the tropics, and their velocity is increased by an increase of trade- 
 wind.' Now, such must be the case at this place, during the months of 
 May, June, and July, when the S. E. trade is extending its northern limit 
 further to the northward, and will account for the strong ripple mentioned 
 before ; and also for the strong N. N. Westerly current, which we found in 
 July to be running full 30 miles in 24> hours, in smooth weather, and must 
 have been quite 35 miles during the stormy breezes which we experienced 
 in June. Again, the height of the barometer, in this latitude, being less 
 than it is to the southward, this last, increased perhaps by more southing, 
 being in the wind in May and June, together with the fact that the rare- 
 faction of the air in the tropics (and being greatest here about May and 
 June) produce an ascending, consequently relieving pressure current, and
 
 195 
 
 to the greatest amount during the.se months, will tend to induce a wave 
 in this direction from the point of greatest pressure, which must be from 
 the south, while the sun is so far north of this latitude ; and from the high 
 barometric state, together with the descent of the superior return current 
 in the southern latitudes, we may infer a wave will be propagated in the 
 direction of the point of least pressure, which will be generally to the 
 northward in this hemisphere, but I presume must be so during the months 
 of May and June. 
 
 " If this implied want of hydrostatic equilibirum be correct, it ought to 
 be greatest, or at least- produce greatest effects in the winds, currents, and 
 rollers, in the months of May and June. I find, on reference to the log, 
 that the winds were of greatest force during the last days of April, but still 
 strong through May and June. The Edward, of Shields, arrived here, 
 having experienced strong winds in May ; and H. M. Ships Fawn, Prompt, 
 and Rolla arrived here early in June, having had to contend with strong 
 southerly winds, with a northerly current ; and referring to the remarks in 
 the meteorological table, I find that the rollers were heavy, and most con- 
 tinuous in May and June. 
 
 " To account for the change of direction in the rollers as they pass to 
 their subsidence, I can well imagine that, as the equilibrium is in process of 
 restoration, the currents of air and water will decrease in velocity, the wave 
 also will decrease and alter its direction, till even re-action may produce al- 
 most an opposite direction, in which cases it must roll into bays open to the 
 N. W. The anchorage here, and at St. Helena, being on the N. "VV. side of 
 the islands, may account for the rollers being said to come from the N. W.; 
 and it is probable that they are highest at the anchorages, from their being 
 to leeward. The period when the rollers are said to come in from the 
 northward being in December, at which time the sun is in high south de- 
 clination, it is not improbable, I think, that the pressure may be greater to 
 the northward than here, and hence propagate a wave in this direction. 
 There is a singular, and, as I am told, regular process observable here, 
 and it appears consequent upon the rollers or their causes, which is a 
 beautiful illustration of a nice adaptation of a universal law to individual 
 habitudes, and another of the many proofs of design with which earth, air, 
 and ocean are strewed, bespeaking a Creator, lavish in greatness, sup- 
 plying all our real wants, bounteous in goodness and truth. 
 
 " The selvage of sand round the bays, where the turtle lay their eggs, is 
 increased considerably in breadth, during the season of incubation. In this 
 process of extension it becomes shelving and easy of access, after which it 
 appears to narrow to its original dimensions, and becomes precipitous, thus 
 affording additional space and facility of gaining it. 
 
 " Of the many vessels which arrived at Ascension from England, one 
 only made a really good passage, owing to their going by the western route, 
 or in consequence of standing over to the African shore, supposing, no 
 doubt, that they would not otherwise fetch Ascension. 
 
 " The course I should recommend, is to pass sufficiently far to the west- 
 ward of the Cape de Verds, and continue till to the southward of their in- 
 fluence, in order to avoid the calms, with rain in squalls, which generally 
 obtain under their lee. Then shape a course for 16 on the equator. This 
 will bring you soon into the S. W. wind, which obtains generally through- 
 out the year, and which will enable you to make southing to get out of the 
 easterly current, the limits in latitude of whicli vary from the equator to 
 2 North. A westerly current obtains to the southward of this, and within 
 narrow limits. Should you not have crossed the line before coming to 8 
 longitude, go about, if you can make a west course by compass on the port
 
 196 
 
 tack, from which you will fetch Ascension as you come up, on drawing out 
 from the African coast. 
 
 " Several steamers have taken the eastern passage to the Cape of Good 
 Hope, erroneously considering that they will invariably have land and sea 
 breezes to aid them to the southward, and that they will be enabled to get 
 fuel, not only in sufficient quantity, but with facility. The green wood 
 which is to be had is a very insufficient fuel for obtaining full steam, and 
 even this is not to be procured without delay. It is better far to coal at 
 Ascension, but even this delay may be avoided by husbanding fuel on the 
 passage from England, 
 
 "For instance, let a vessel leave England with 14 days' coal on board, 
 and have also the ordinary amount of sail that our men-of-war steamers 
 have, such as the Vixen ; then working expansively, and taking advantage 
 of the, winds, she need not expend more than 7 days' coal before she arrives 
 in the S. E. trade, from which she must sail with one engine going to the 
 southern limits, which may thus be reached by vessels such as the Vixen 
 in 8 or 9 days, and the westerly winds may be reached in one day more, 
 having expended then from 12 to 13 days' coal. These westerly winds will 
 run her to the Cape in 8 or 9 days, or even to a position to fetch Mauritius 
 with the S. E. trade in 5 days more. If she be bound to China, this would 
 be advisable, though, in following this route, she may have gone much to 
 the southward of her direct course to the Cape, she will yet have attained 
 to a latitude in which the degrees of longitude are so short, as nearly to 
 compensate for that but apparent great difference. Now, let it be supposed 
 that the same vessel shall have gone to Ascension with only the same con- 
 sumption of coals, or two days at least more. If she objects to make the 
 detour necessary to fetch it under sail, this she cannot effect under two to 
 six days more time. She will not then complete her coals, in the first case, 
 under 6 days, and in the second case, under 8 days. She will not then 
 reach the Cape of Good Hope, if she steer direct, in 14 days time, and may 
 be blown off by a south-easter, and then have to stand to the southward 
 under sail, her coals being expended ; while, if she shape her course to the 
 southward of a great sailing course, as far as may be, without increasing her 
 distance above that of a direct course distance, she will have arrived in the 
 westerly winds, which will run her into the Cape, so as to insure fetching, 
 though a south-easter should catch her, and this in about 15 days, perhaps 
 with a saving of one or two days' coals, which are valuable, to contend with 
 any unforeseen difficulties which might occur. For instance, they might 
 enable her to steam in against a north-wester. Then, suppose a similar 
 vessel to make the eastern passage, and to complete her coals at Fernando 
 Po, she will not arrive at this place till 6 days, at least, after another may 
 have reached the northern limit of the S. E. trade ; she will then require 
 6 days to complete her coals ; she will not then reach the Cape, husbanding 
 her coals as she may, under 20 days, for which she must have 18 days' fuel. 
 If she stop anywhere to obtain the 4 days above her ordinary quantity, it 
 will occupy fully 8 days, if not 8 days will not be more than enough, to al- 
 low for completing the passage under sail." 
 
 REPORTED DANGER TO THE N. E. OF ASCENSION. EX- 
 TRACT FROM THE NAUTICAL MAGAZINE FOR 1832, PAGE 561. "On the 
 authority of Commodore Hayes, and Mr. A. Weir, the master of H. M. S. 
 Dryad, we can no longer give credit to the statement of Mr. Fraser, of the 
 ship St. George, in 1830, relating to the existence of a dangerous rock to 
 N. E. of Ascension. By the following it will be seen, that the Dryad and 
 her tender went in search of it ; and from the care taken in the observa- 
 tions, as well as the common occurrence of shoals of fish being frequently
 
 197 
 
 seen in those latitudes, and the great probability that it would have been 
 discovered before, had such a rock existed, we must conclude that there is 
 no such danger. 
 
 " The master of the ship St. George, on her passage to the Island of 
 Ascension, in the employ of Government, on the 14th October, 1830, 
 having reported the existence of an extensive danger, in latitude 6 35' S., 
 longitude 12 57' W., and left with the commandant of Ascension an ex- 
 tract from his log, relative thereto, H. M. S. Dryad, accompanied by her 
 tender, sailed from that island on the 14th January, 1832, to search for, 
 and, if possible, give so dangerous a shoal a positive position. On the fol- 
 lowing day, at 11 A. M., the Dryad was upon the exact spot, the tender 
 bearing N. "W. 4 or 5 miles, the day very fine and clear, a five or six-knot 
 breeze by the wind, and sufficient swell to break upon a shoal ; nothing, 
 however, indicating the existence of a shoal could be detected." 
 
 12. ST. HELENA is a small rocky island, about 1,200 miles west of 
 the coast of Benguela, in South Africa, and nearly in the latitude of Cape 
 Negro ; and about 1,800 miles east of the coast of Brazil, in South America. 
 It was discovered, on the 15th of August, 1502, by John de Nuova, a 
 Portuguese navigator, on his return from the East Indies. This discovery 
 happened on the anniversary of the festival of St. Helena, he called the 
 island by her name. It has been uninterruptedly in the hands of the 
 English ever since the year 1674; and its situation and supply of pure 
 fresh water have gained for it the notice and patronage of the East India 
 Company. St. Helena will attract particular notice to the end of time, 
 as the sequestered spot to which the late Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte 
 was consigned as an exile.* Seen at a distance the island appears like a 
 lofty mass of barren rocks, rising in a pyramidal form ; on a nearer ap- 
 proach, rugged and almost perpendicular cliffs, from 600 to 1,200 feet high, 
 are seen encompassing the island all round, broken through in several 
 places by deep chasms, which open to the sea-shore, and which form so 
 many narrow valleys, winding up the table land in the centre of the island. 
 
 One of the principal of these openings is called James' valley, on the 
 N. W. coast of the island. And at the opening of it to the sea is James' 
 Town, the only town and port of the island, which is defended by strong 
 batteries, and is the residence of the authorities. Ascending James' valley 
 we arrive at the plain or table-land of Longwood, situated in the eastern 
 part of the islapd, and consisting of 1,500 acres of fine land, nearly 2,000 
 feet above the sea, sloping gently towards the S. E. In the centre of the 
 island rises Diana's peak, 2,693 feet above the sea. A calcareous ridge, 
 which runs across from east to west, sloping abruptly on the south, 
 divides the island into two unequal parts ; the larger and finer of which 
 is on the north side of it, containing James' valley, Rupert's valley, Long- 
 wood plain, the deep crater-like dell, called the Devil's Punch-bowl, the 
 Briars, near which is a fine cascade, Plantation house, which is a country 
 residence of the governor, &c. The whole circumference of the island is 
 about 28 miles. 
 
 The population, exclusive of the garrison, is about 5,000, about one- 
 third of which are Europeans, and the rest are blacks, men of colour, and 
 Chinese. The climate of St. Helena is one of the healthiest under the 
 tropics, and is found beneficial to invalids from India, and even from 
 Europe. The range of the thermometer, at Plantation house, is from 
 61 to 73 within doors; it sometimes falls to 52 in the open air, 
 
 * His body was removed to France on the 18th of October, 1840.
 
 198 
 
 between June and September. In James' Town it is generally from 5 
 to 7 degrees higher than at Plantation house, and at Longwood it is 
 somewhat lower. The summer rains fall in January or February, and 
 the winter rains in July or August. Cloudy days are frequent and re- 
 freshing throughout the year. Viewed from the sea the island appears 
 barren, but the interior is covered with a rich verdure, and is watered by 
 abundant springs ; the soil of the valleys is very rich, and produces all the 
 fruits and flowers of Europe and Asia. Horned cattle, sheep, and goats 
 feed on the rich pastures. Pretty cottages, in picturesque situations, are 
 scattered about the island. The base of the island appears to be basalt, 
 and lava and scoriae are found scattered about the surface. 
 
 The only LANDING-PLACES are at Rupert's and James', or Chapel valleys. 
 In Rupert's valley, toward the sea, stands a strong battery, well mounted 
 with heavy cannon ; but the valley is not habitable, because it has no 
 water. In the entrance of James' valley stands James' town, which is 
 defended by a very fine line of 32-pounders, and flanked by a high inac- 
 cessible battery upon the rocks, called Munden's close, under which all 
 ships must pass that come to anchor before the town. The water that 
 supplies the garrison and shipping is conveyed by leaden pipes from a 
 spring in the valley, distant more than a mile from the sea. These pipes 
 lead the water to the jetty, where there are two cranes for the use of boats, 
 in loading with goods or water-casks, or for receiving stores from the ship- 
 ping, The water is of the purest quality, and in great plenty. In a mo- 
 derate season, six hogsheads are yielded every minute, and shipping may 
 be supplied with 300 tons every twenty-four hours. On the right or 
 western side, the valley is entered from the interior, by the steep promon- 
 tory called Ladder Hill, the zig-zag road upon which (9 feet in breadth) 
 has a wall on the side next to the p'recipice, and is very easy of ascent. On 
 the left of the valley, the carriage-road, called Side Path, is the avenue to 
 the interior of the island eastward. 
 
 On the ridge above Ladder hill, is the observatory, now no longer in 
 use, as the time-ball, which was originally hoisted here, is removed to the 
 town, and is in charge of the master-attendant, whose attention to it is un- 
 remitting. The ball drops at mean noon, St. Helena time, for the benefit 
 of the inhabitants, and at one p. m., for the advantage of the shipping. 
 The ball is hoisted half-mast high, five minutes before the time, and at one 
 minute before, to the mast-head. 
 
 The following official notice, dated St. Helena, 21st January, 1834-, 
 states, that " To prevent mistakes, a ichite ball, hoisted upon a staff, will 
 denote the time as follows : the ball will be hoisted half-mast at Jive 
 minutes, and close up at two minutes, before twelve o'clock. At the instant 
 of the mean time, at noon, of St. Helena, the ball will drop from the top of 
 the staff, when the gun will be fired at High Knoll. The signal will be 
 repeated at one o'clock, at the instant of Greenwich mean time, for the 
 benefit of the shipping. A ship wishing to correct her chronometers, and 
 arriving after one p. m., and not likely to remain the twenty-four hours, 
 may hoist the Blue Peter at the main-top-gallantmast head, when the 
 same method will be adopted at the next ensuing hour after the signal. 
 Foreign ships to substitute their ensign for the Blue Peter. 
 
 " Should there be any uncertainty, and the ship wishes to have the signal 
 repeated, she will dip the flag, and re-hoist it on observing the ball half- 
 mast. The ball will again drop at the ensuing quarter of the last hour. 
 Ships concealed from a view of the signal station will attend to the re- 
 peating-ball at Ladder hill, and in neither case is any allowance to be made 
 for loss of time, since the astronomer will make the calculation of the few
 
 199 
 
 tenths required. (A most luminous description, icitk plans of the time- 
 ball and machinery ', will be found in the Nautical Magazine for 1835, 
 page 658. 
 
 ALL snips IN APPROACHING THE ISLAND must heave-to, before they 
 can pass Sugar-loaf point, and send a boat with an officer to report them ; 
 the boat is generally hailed from the battery at the point, but she must 
 proceed to James' Town, to give information to the governor, before the 
 ship will be permitted to pass the first battery of the Sugar-loaf. Ships- 
 of-war, as well as others, must observe this precaution, or the batteries will 
 open and prevent them from gaining the anchorage. When the boat is 
 perceived returning, the ship may make sail ; and after passing Sugar-loaf 
 point, within a cable's length or less, keep the shore close on board, in 
 passing Rupert's valley, with the head-sails braced well forward, to prevent 
 them from being taken back by the gusts of wind that blow from the high 
 land, which frequently veer several points. Having passed Rupert's valley, 
 you should keep near to Munden's point, but take special care to avoid the 
 sunken rock which lies off the fort, at between 30 and 40 yards from the 
 point ; upon this rock a small buoy with a red flag is placed. 
 
 When you are beyond Munden's point, you will perceive James' Town 
 and valley, off which is good anchorage, with from 8 to 15 fathoms water 
 bringing the flagstaff on the fort, in James' Town, to bear S. S. E. or S. E. 
 by S., and Sugar-loaf point N. E. by E., distant half a mile from shore. 
 There is also good riding abreast of Ladder hill, or off its eastern point, 
 having the flagstaff E. S. E., and about 14 fathoms water. You should 
 moor with a stream or kedge-anchor to seaward, on account of the eddy 
 winds which commonly prevail, particularly near Ladder hill. Those an- 
 choring in the stream of the valley seldom swing toward the shore, for a 
 constant breeze, and frequently gusts of wind, blow from the vajley to sea- 
 ward ; with light winds, the vessels will, at times, swing alternately to the 
 eastward and westward, which is occasioned by a sort of tide or current ; 
 but this current is very week, and at full and change of the moon the rise 
 of water is seldom more than 2 or 3 feet. 
 
 The bank of soundings begins off Rupert's valley, and extends along the 
 N. W. side of the island, so far as the S. W. extremity, or Horse-pasture 
 point ; but there are no soundings to the eastward of Sugar-loaf point, ex- 
 cept close to the cliffs. 
 
 SPERRY LEDGE is a reef, two cables' length, with depths of 16 to 10 
 fathoms; and pointed rocks, of 24 to 18 feet, between it and the south 
 point of the island, from which it is distant better than a mile S. by W. 
 (true.) This is the only danger at any considerable distance off the island, 
 and it is not in the way of ships, unless they fall to leeward and round the 
 south point ; in such cases, they should give it a berth of two miles, till it 
 bear about N. E., then haul up for the S. W. or W. point, which is bold to' 
 approach. 
 
 BARN LEDGE is about 1^ cable's length in circuit, with 12, 8, and 6 
 fathoms on it, to 3j fathoms, sharp rocks, on the shoalest parts. Barn 
 point bears from it N. W. ^ N., distant about three-quarters of a mile, and 
 there is 24 or 20 fathoms between it and the shore, with 32 fathoms near it 
 on the outside. Large ships coming from S. E. should keep the small islet, 
 called George's island, well open with Saddle point, until Sugar-loaf point 
 is open with Barn point, which will carry them clear outside of the ledge ; 
 or keep a mile from the shore till nearly abreast of Barn point which is 
 the N. E. point of the island. 
 
 About two miles to the S. W. of James' valley is Lemon valley, where 
 there is a run of good water, but too difficult to come at, on account of the
 
 200 
 
 surf which beats against a rocky shore. Vessels do not often anchor here, 
 being too far from the town ; but they frequently ride off Rupert's valley, 
 though the ground is not so good as it is abreast of James' valley and Lad- 
 der Hill ; here the soundings extend about one mile from the land, sinking 
 suddenly from 40 fathoms to no ground ; ships, therefore, should not an- 
 chor too far out, near the edge of the bank in deep water, for the gusts of 
 wind which come from the valley will start your anchor, and to let go 
 another will be unavailing, as, from a sudden declivity of the bank, it will 
 not reach the ground. Should a vessel anchor in 35 or 40 fathoms, and 
 the anchor not hold, all the cable may be veered out, to make her ride, until 
 it may be convenient to warp further in ; but you should never let go a 
 second anchor, for if she will not ride safe with one, it ought to be hove up, 
 and you should work in by short tacks, under the lee of the island, until 
 you gain a better anchorage. 
 
 VESSELS BOUND TO ST. HELENA, after crossing the equator, generally 
 stand to the southward as far as 29 30' S., or even 31 if necessary, until 
 they get variable winds, with which they run down their easting, and then 
 stand to the northward, into the S. E. trade, for the island. Some few 
 ships have found the trade- wind vary so much that they have never gone 
 to the southward of 20, but, availing themselves of the changes, have 
 tacked as the wind varied, and worked up to the island, between it and the 
 parallel of 15 S., but this has seldom happened. 
 
 During the months of November, December, January, February, and 
 March, if, on crossing the equator, a ship finds the wind incline from S. "W., 
 she may, by standing S. E. across the Gulf of Guinea, close on a wind, and 
 afterwards 'tacking as it veers to the east or west of South, most probably 
 reach St. Helena in less time than if she had proceeded by the former, or 
 western route. But when the sun has great north declination, this eastern 
 route seems precarious, while the other is certain at all times. Although 
 it has been the practice of ships going the western route, to run so far as 
 32 and 33 S., yet it can seldom be requisite so to do, as it lengthens the 
 passage : those ships which have not proceeded so far south, have generally 
 made the best passage to St. Helena. From the time of losing the N. E. 
 trade-wind, forty or forty-four days may be considered a fair passage, by 
 the eastern route, in the above months. From the same limit, forty-three 
 days may be considered a medium passage, by the western route ; and 
 during any months in the year, it may be made in this time. From St. 
 Helena to the Cape, a month is considered a fair passage. 
 
 13. BANK OF ANTONIO VI ANA. This bank, according to 
 " Pimental," lies between the 17 and 18 of South latitude, about 70 or 
 80 leagues W. S. W. from Cape Negro. It is considered very dangerous 
 to ships coming from Brazil to Benguela and Angola ; one of the rocks 
 only appears above water. The shoal is very steep, and cannot be dis- 
 cerned in the day time till you are near, on account of the foaming of the 
 sea, the noise of which may be heard at a great distance, and may warn 
 you of the danger in approaching it during the night. 
 
 14. MARTIN V AS ROCKS. These are three high and barren islets 
 or rocks, of which the central one is the largest, and may be seen at the 
 distance of 8 or 10 leagues from a ship's deck. This is a little more easterly 
 than the other two, although they are nearly on the same meridian, as 
 they are all in one, when bearing north or south. The northernmost and 
 central rocks are near each other, but between the latter and the southern- 
 most is a channel. They are all steep and inaccessible, and the distance 
 between the two extreme ones is about 3 miles ; when seen at a distance 
 they appear like five heads of land.
 
 201 
 
 15. CONGRESS BANK. A bank of soundings, coral or rocky 
 bottom, of 35 fathoms, is said to have been found by the American frigate 
 Congress, on her voyage to Buenos Ayres, in the latitude and longitude 
 stated in the Table, (page 185.) 
 
 16. ISLE OF TRINIDAD. This island is about 6 miles in circum- 
 ference, and appears high and uneven, is distinctly seen in clear weather 
 from the rocks of Martin Vas, and may be perceived from a ship's deck at 
 the distance of 12 or 15 leagues. It extends nearly S. E. and N. W., 
 is generally rocky and barren, though in some parts there are trees of 18 
 inches diameter, particularly about the south part of the island. The shore 
 is surrounded with sharp, rugged, coral rocks, and of difficult access, occa- 
 sioned by the high surf that continually breaks on it in every part. 
 
 The fresh water is good, and supplied by two small streams, which run 
 down the E. and S. W. sides of the island ; it may also be procured at times 
 from the rock which forms the S. W. extremity, but neither of them will 
 fill a tube of 6 inches diameter, and it is doubtful whether these streams 
 are temporary or perennial. Ships should not stop here for water, unless 
 they are greatly in want of that article, for the difficulty of getting it from 
 shore is great, and often impracticable ; the anchorage is also unsafe, as the 
 winds are variable, and should a gale happen from W. or S. W., they would 
 be in great danger of driving on shore. 
 
 The best anchorage for those who are obliged to stop here to procure 
 water, is about a mile off the west end of the island, that they may be able 
 to clear it on either tack, should the wind shift and blow on ; here they will 
 have from 30 to 40 fathoms water, on coarse sandy bottom. Within a 
 musket-shot of the shore are 16 or 18 fathoms, but it is not safe to lie so 
 near. On the western side, nearly detached from the island, there is a rock 
 800 feet high, with trees upon it, called the Monument, or Ninepin. There 
 is also a stupendous arch, which is perforated through a bluff rock, about 
 800 feet high ; the arch is about 40 feet in breadth, 50 feet in height, and 
 420 feet in length. The sea breaks through it with a great noise, and there 
 are more than 3 fathoms water under it. "When the sea is moderate, you 
 may see through this arch into the only bay in the island, and .have a view 
 of a distant rock, covered with trees. At the S. E. end of the island there 
 is also a rock of a conical form, about 1,160 feet high, with trees likewise 
 on its summit, called the Sugar-loaf; and whenever it rains hard a beautiful 
 cascade of above 700 feet is projected from it. 
 
 Although Trinidad is within the southern tropic, the S. E. trade-wind is 
 not regular; N. E. and Northerly winds often happen, particularly the 
 former. Sometimes light airs and calms succeed the S. E. winds ; and 
 sometimes hard squalls or S. W. gales have been experienced, which render 
 the anchorage very hazardous. Trinidad is often seen by ships passing to 
 the southward through the S. E. trade-wind, but is seldom visited, on ac- 
 count of its unsafe anchorage. 
 
 17. THE ISLAND ASCENSAO is said to lie midway between 
 Trinidad and the main, and thus described : It is stated to be high, 
 having a cove on its north side, with fresh water ; off its western side are 
 five small islands or rocks, one of which, stretching out to seaward, appears 
 like a ship under sail. Fish and wild fowl are there in abundance. In this 
 situation it has been repeatedly sought for in vain, and, therefore, modern 
 navigators deny its position, and seem to doubt its existence. Notwith- 
 standing this, it has been said, that land was seen by the Commander of 
 the Telica, steamer, on her passage to Peru, in 1825, which appeared to lie 
 in latitude 20 35' S., and longitude 37 28' W. The island bore S. E. by 
 E. E., by compass, distant by estimation about 8 leagues. 
 
 c c
 
 202 
 
 18. COLUMBUS, OR SAXEMBURGH ISLAND. This island is 
 stated to be about 4 leagues long, running from N. "W. to S. E., and 2^ 
 miles broad, its N. W. point appearing to be a high bluff perpendicular 
 promontory, running off to the S. E. Several trees are upon the island, 
 which is said to have a sandy kind of beach ; but its existence is considered 
 more than doubtful. 
 
 19. GRANT BREAKERS. The position of this danger is extremely 
 vague. It is said to have been seen by Captain Grant, in 1800, who ob- 
 served high and dangerous breakers, 32 miles S. E. ^ S. of compass, of 
 latitude 31 13' S., longitude by account 11 48' W. ; he considered them 
 the same as seen by a former vessel, who placed their situation in latitude 
 31 S., longitude 21 45' W. 
 
 20. LAUREL SHOAL. Captain McDonald, of the Laurel, bound 
 from London to Valparaiso, in 1822, and touching at the River Plate, says, 
 he discovered a shoal in the latitude stated in the table (page 185) it 
 appeared about a mile in length, and the same in breadth, having a sea 
 breaking very high over it ; it had the appearance of sand, and seemed 
 very shallow. He passed within half a mile of it; then hove to, and 
 sounded with 90 fathoms, but found no bottom. 
 
 21. TRISTA D' ACUNHA. This group consists of three islands, 
 the largest and northernmost being named after the discoverer, Tristan d' 
 Acunha ; it is about 30 miles in circumference, and of circular form, being 
 the base of a mountain which terminates in a peak, 8,326 feet above the 
 sea, and may be seen at 25 or 30 leagues distance. It is sometimes covered 
 with snow, when the sun is in the northern hemisphere. There is a con- 
 siderable space of level land, fit for cultivation, between the shore and the 
 foot of the mountain, the soil rich, deep, and adequate to the production 
 of all kinds of vegetables, &c. There is said to be shallow water and 
 breakers extending full two cables' length from the west point of the island ; 
 at other parts the shore is bold-to, but modern accounts state it to be free 
 from rocks or dangers of any kind. At the north side of the island, the 
 land rises perpendicularly upwards of 300 yards, whence it ascends with a 
 gentle acclivity to the base of the peaked mountain, which rises majestically 
 over the table land. There is a bay on the N. W. side of the island, with 
 a beach of black sand, where boats may be hauled up ; the bay, however, 
 is open and much exposed. Here is an abundance of good water, falling 
 from two cascades ; one of them is so conveniently situated, that the water 
 may be conveyed into the casks in the boats by means of a long hose. 
 Around this bay is plenty of wood, but the trees are small, and of the maple 
 kind, burning remarkably well ; and on the east side of the island is com- 
 monly a quantity of drift wood, but never any on the western side. The 
 shores abound with wild celery, dorrel, and parsley ; and there are numbers 
 of wild goats and hogs, but apparently no other quadruped ; large quan- 
 tities of various fish frequent the surrounding sea, and the shores are 
 covered with seals, sea lions, and sea elephants ; whales also, of the female 
 or cow kind, abound in the offing. 
 
 22. INACCESSIBLE ISLAND lies nearly W. S. W., by compass, from the nor- 
 thern island, and is 9 leagues distant. The Blenden Hall, Captain Greig, on 
 her voyage from London to Bombay, in 1821, was totally lost on Inacces- 
 sible island, and eight of the crew perished. The island is about 9 miles long, 
 well wooded, and remarkably high, so much so, that it is a day's work to 
 attain the summit ; it is constantly enveloped with clouds, and visited with 
 squalls ; it has no harbour or cove, and can be landed on to leeward only, 
 a heavy swell constantly prevails. NIGHTINGALE ISLAND bears S. 33 W. 
 distant 8 leagues from Tristan d' Acunha. The three islands are high, rocky,
 
 203 
 
 
 
 and steep-to ; off the south end of the smallest island a reef of rocks runs 
 out a considerable way, but no other danger is known about them ; there 
 is no safe anchorage, but deep water channels between them all. 
 
 REMARKS BY JAMES HERD, COMMANDER OP THE BARQUE ROSANNA. 
 Nautical Magazine for 1832, page 340. " The latitude of Tristan d' 
 Acunha was ascertained by observations taken on shore, by the artificial 
 horizon, as was likewise the time for chronometers, within one hundred 
 yards of Cascade point. From this point Inaccessible island bears, by com- 
 pass, S. 63 W., distant 20 to 21 miles; from the S. W. point of Tristan 
 island, Nightingale island bears S. 28 W. ; from Cascade point to the 
 S. W. point, the coast lies S. W. by S., and N. E. by N., about 4 miles. 
 When I touched here in 1821, our chronometers made the longitude (from 
 Rio Janeiro) a few miles more to the Westward, or in 12 5' W. The 
 variation in 1825 was 10 59' W. 
 
 " Were Tristan d' Acunha better known it might be of great service to 
 ships bound to India, and particularly to New South Wales, as water is 
 very easily obtained, and also live stock and vegetables of every description. 
 With the wind from West, round by South to N. N. E., in moderate 
 weather, ships can always lie within two miles of the watering-place. The 
 only winds that render it inaccessible are those from North to W. N. W., 
 and these are generally of short continuance ; so that, rather than put into 
 the Cape, or Rio, it would save time and expense to get refreshment at this 
 place. On making the island, if the wind was from the northward, I would 
 haul off to windward of Inaccessible island, and lie there until the wind 
 backed to W. S. W., which at the longest duration will not be more than 
 two or three days. This I did in 1825, when we took on board 20 tons of 
 water, two bullocks, twelve sheep, six pigs, several dozen fowls, and thirty 
 hundred- weight of potatoes and vegetables, which served all hands as long 
 as they would keep good. Had the people o*n shore a hose, the water might 
 always be filled without taking the casks out of the boat, or even bringing 
 her into the surf." 
 
 EXTRACT OP A LETTER, SIGNED ALBERT, DATED LIVERPOOL, Nov. 18TH, 
 1833. " Mr. Glass (generally styled Governor) has cut a trench from the 
 run of water that forms the " Cascade," from which a hose is attached, and 
 fills the water in the cove. However, if there be any swell running, the 
 best way is to raft it, as there is no inconvenience arising from the sea- 
 weed, beyond an oar fouling occasionally. Observe, also, that the current 
 generally sets to the E. N. E. The ship ought to keep the cascade to the 
 eastward of south, to enable the boat to fetch the cove with the raft, (sup- 
 posing the wind westwardly ;) and when the boat is returning, and has got 
 a sufficient offing, to run down inside of her, and receive the raft with the 
 head off shore. The people on the island will cheerfully render all the as- 
 sistance in their power. 
 
 "The market prices in March last, which were furnished me by Mr. Glass, 
 at the same time assuring me that a plentiful supply might be had, were as 
 follow : A milch cow and calf, 8 ; sucking pigs, 2s. 6d. ; potatoes, 8s. per 
 cwt.; grown pigs, 10s. and 12s. ; beef, 3d. per Ib. ; sheep, 15s. to 20s.; fowls, 
 18s. per dozen ; geese, 5s. each." (Nautical Magazine for 1834, page 4s5.} 
 
 23. LENNON, OR HIBERNIA REEF, was seen by Captain Len- 
 non, of the Hibernia, in April, 1817, on his passage to India. When clear 
 of the island of Trista d' Acunha, he steered E. by S., with a fair wind, until 
 half-past 11 a.m. of the 12th, (April) then in latitude 37 31' S., longitude 
 4 42' W., ship going at the rate of 7 knots an hour, perceived a sunken 
 rock close on the larboard bow, bore up immediately, and with great dif- 
 ficulty escaped running on it. The part or end that at one time was close
 
 204 
 
 alongside I could very distinctly perceive. The rock was about 9 feet 
 under water, and at the distance of about one hundred yards, where I sup- 
 pose the rock was nigher the surface, there appeared fields of weed growing 
 from the rock. On taking a good look out all round, we could perceive 
 two other rocks. 
 
 24. ROBSON'S EEEF. Extract from the Log of the Barque Ann, 
 from Liverpool, towards the Isle of France, 1829, Captain W. W. Robson. 
 
 " Monday, 12th October. Made Trista d' Acunha, the longitude by chro- 
 nometer exactly agreeing with Captain Hey wood's. Sunday, the 18th, 
 at 9 h. 30 m. a. m., saw on the lee bow what was at first supposed to be 
 whales, but, when a short distance from them, discovered them plainly to 
 be rocks, the highest part about 8 feet above water ; luffed, and cleared 
 them by about 50 yards. The sea broke heavy on them, and there was 
 tangle 8 or 9 feet long growing on the rocks. They are about 50 or 60 
 yards long, something of a horse-shoe shape, with the opening to the S. E." 
 In allusion to the above-mentioned reef, CAPTAIN JAMES LIDDELL, of 
 the ship Wellington, in a letter addressed to the Editor of the Nautical 
 Magazine, dated December 2nd, 1835, says, " I take this opportunity of 
 alluding to a notice contained in your December number, 1833, respecting 
 a ' crescent rock,' seen by Captain Robson, in the barque Ann, on the 18th 
 October, 1829, in latitude 37 35' S., 7 30' E. longitude. I confess I was 
 exceedingly surprised when this account first met my eye, as, on reference 
 to my journals, I found I had twice passed nearly over the very spot in the 
 day-time. But, sir, when it is considered that this * crescent rock' is situ- 
 ated not only in the direct route of all the outward-bound vessels to the 
 eastward, but also in the very cruising parallel of the American whalers, 
 whose number yearly frequenting that part of the ocean exceeds 300, may 
 we not be permitted to suspect, with that able and indefatigable hydro- 
 grapher, Horsburgh, 'that dead whales, shoals of devil-fish, and other 
 huge marine monsters,' are still sometimes mistaken for banks and rocks. 
 Three years ago, within a short distance of the reported site of this 'crescent 
 rock,' we saw at one time around us six American whalers." (Nautical 
 Magazine for 1836, page 340.^ 
 
 25. TELEMAQUE ROCK. This danger seems to have been first 
 observed by Captain Geraud, of the French brigantine Telemaque, who 
 states, that not only was green moss and grass seen upon the rock, but in 
 some places the bare rock appeared perfectly distinct and plain on both 
 sides of the vessel. Subsequent navigators seem to agree as to the existence 
 of this danger, though it has been much doubted by others ; at all events, 
 it is generally agreed, that the correctness of the position assigned is very 
 questionable. 
 
 26. ARIEL ROCKS. Extract from the log-look of the schooner Ariel, 
 of Whitehaven, Thomas Dixon, master, on her passage from Liverpool to 
 
 Valparaiso, December 22nd, 1827. "At 11 h. 45 m. a.m., moderate 
 breezes from the N. E., steering S. S. W. by compass, saw something of a 
 reddish appearance, a little above water, at about a quarter of a mile dis- 
 tant. Hauled in for it, sounded, and obtained bottom at 47 fathoms, fine 
 grey sand. The object seen was about 6 feet above the water, and 20 or 
 30 feet in circumference, but more extensive underneath. When close to, 
 we saw another head, at about 2 or 3 cables' length to the N. E. of the first, 
 also of a reddish appearance. The sea was breaking over them with a 
 noise ; there was some sea- weed, and a number of sea-birds about them. 
 These dangerous rocks lie in the general track of vessels round Cape Horn, 
 to the west coast of South America. The latitude was obtained by a good 
 meridian altitude of the sun, and the longitude by good lunar observations
 
 205 
 
 taken that day, and by chronometric observations." (Nautical Magazine 
 for 1832, page 115J 
 
 27. GOUGH ISLAND. This island is about 15 or 16 miles in cir- 
 cumference, being elevated about 4,380 feet above the level of the sea, and 
 has some small bushy trees on it. The cliffs rise almost perpendicularly 
 from the sea, and several beautiful falls of water issue from the chasms be- 
 tween them. Near the N. E. point is a rock resembling a church, with 
 a high spire on its western end, to the southward of which, on the east 
 side of the island, a rocky islet lies near the shore. Within this islet the 
 landing is safe and easy, being protected by the N. E. point from the swell 
 and northerly winds. 
 
 28. ISLE GRANDE. Extract of a Utter from CAPTAIN A. HAIG, 
 of the Sir John Roe Reed, in latitude 19 ., longitwle 31 W. " On the 
 5th instant,* we discovered an island in latitude 46 40' S. and longitude 
 48 35' W. It was first seen about 4 p. M., bearing N. W., about 4 leagues 
 distant. I hauled up a couple of points, to get a better view of it, but 
 night coming on, and a hard gale blowing, I regret to say, I was prevented 
 from surveying it so accurately as I could have wished. At first we 
 thought it an ice island, but, on a nearer view, all hands were convinced 
 of its being a rocky islet, elevated about one thousand feet above the level 
 of the sea. A detached black rock was seen to the eastward of it. The 
 nearest land to this that I have heard of is Isle Grande, differing very 
 much both in latitude and longitude. There is still a possibility of our 
 having been deceived by an ice island ; but the numerous birds we were 
 surrounded by, during the forenoon, argues strongly in favour of land, more 
 especially as shags and divers were seen a species of bird that is only met 
 with where the land is near. The position of Isle Grande is said to be very 
 doubtful." Times Newspaper. 
 
 REMARKS BY THE EDITOR OF THE NAUTICAL MAGAZINE FOR 1835, 
 PAGE 1. That the island named Isle Grande, by La Roche, in 1675, has 
 ever since that tune remained absolutely unknown, throws some degree of 
 interest on the foregoing report of Captain Haig. As there are also several 
 reasons for supposing it was an island, and no iceberg, that was seen by this 
 gentleman, the present seems to be a favourable opportunity for considering 
 the subject of La Roche's long-questioned discovery. 
 
 " On the first glance over the materials we have collected, belonging to 
 the subject, the most striking feature that presents itself is the vast extent 
 of surface over which birds, pieces of wood, branches of trees, sea-weed, 
 feathers, spawn, and an unusual quantity of whales, have been seen by 
 various navigators ; and it is equally worthy of observation, that this ex- 
 tent of the ocean, which amounts to about 700 miles, is greatest in one 
 direction, namely about N. E. and S. W. tJtat of the prevailing wind and 
 current. 
 
 " Isle Grande is laid down in the following meridians on the charts, in 
 the parallel of 4.3, namely, 35 30', 38 30', and 46 30' W. ; the last ac- 
 cording to Dalrymple, who appears to have had some strong reason for 
 differing so much as 10 degrees from the first, which was the longitude as- 
 signed to it by Captain Cook. From conclusions so widely apart as these, 
 we may safely infer, that the data on which they rest must be of a slender 
 kind. 
 
 " Considering the materials before us in the order of their date, the first 
 we come to is the account of a search for it -by the unfortunate La Perouse. 
 
 otb March, 1834.
 
 206 
 
 This celebrated navigator reached the parallel of 44 38' S., in 34 W., on 
 the 7th of September, 1785 ; between which time and the 27th December 
 following, he beat to windward, between the latitudes of 44 and 45, till 
 he reached the longitude of 49 "W. Perouse seems to have gladly given 
 up his search, (although disappointed) and, while he states his conviction 
 that the island does not exist in the part he had traversed over, he con- 
 siders that the search for it should not be abandoned. He says, 4 We passed 
 sea-weed, and were for many days surrounded by birds.' But although 
 Perouse did not find Isle Grande, he did much to forward its discovery, by 
 proving that it does not exist in the latitude so perseveringly assigned to it 
 by those who have considered the question of its position ; and it is rather 
 surprising that it should still have remained on the charts in the parallel 
 of 45. 
 
 " Colnett, in March, 1793, passed the eastern limits of the supposed 
 position of Isle Grande, and, in latitude 40 12' S., longitude 34 8' W., he 
 found the sea covered with feathers, birch twigs, driftwood, and sea-weed. 
 Passing to the southward the same day, many birds and whales were seen ; 
 indeed so many of the latter, that one was pursued by his boats, and he 
 remarks, that ' the number of whales in sight presented a fair opportunity 
 of making a profitable voyage in the article of black oil ; but my predo- 
 minant object,' he adds, ' was to fulfil the particular services recommended 
 to me by the Lords of the Admiralty.' The number of birds seen by him 
 must have been very great, when he says, ' Had they all been on the wing 
 together, and above us, instead of rising in alternate flocks, and skimming 
 after the whales, the atmosphere must have been altogether darkened by 
 them.' Colnett had imbibed the opinion of Cook, and expected to have 
 seen the island in the position assigned to it by the ' father of circum- 
 navigators,' and with this motive he stood to the southward, with the 
 wind fresh from W. N. W. In his way he met with many birds, and 
 much sea-weed, till reaching the parallel of 45, when the whole gradually 
 disappeared ; and Colnett continued his voyage to the Pacific, in the hopes 
 of being more successful on his return. This, however, was not the case, and 
 he had no opportunity of doing more towards the discovery of its position. 
 Colnett sounded occasionally, without success, with 200 fathoms of line. 
 
 " Vancouver also appears to have inclined to the opinion of Cook, in the 
 position of Isle Grande, and broadly states, that ' if such land has any ex- 
 istence, it will be found not very far remote from the situation assigned to 
 it by Captain Cook, a fact,' he says, ' I was very desirous of establishing.' 
 Vancouver was unsuccessful; but, although he did not establish it in Cook's 
 position, he ascertained that it was not in that assigned to it by Dalrymple. 
 
 " But more light seems to have been thrown on the supposed position of 
 this island by modern navigators ; and among them, Captain Andrew 
 Livingstone has certainly done more towards its re-discovery than any 
 other. Indeed, the solicitude with which this gentleman has gone into the 
 question, and the anxiety he has evinced for the safety of navigators, by 
 his endeavours to remove the veil of obscurity by which it has been so long 
 concealed, are highly creditable to him. In the month of June, 1824, 
 Captain Livingstone, on his way into the Pacific, entered the questionable 
 limits of the neighbourhood of Isle Grande, and, aware of the importance 
 of his remarks, noted them down carefully. In the latitude 43 S., and 
 longitude 45 30' W., he observed an immense number of birds, which, as 
 he continued to the S. W., do not appear to have followed him. But, on 
 the 7th of the same month, we find him, at noon, passing within about 20 
 miles of the position of the island reported by Captain Haig, without 
 making any such discovery.
 
 207 
 
 " On his return from the Pacific, in September, 1825, we find rock -weed 
 noted by Captain Livingstone, a short distance to the southward of the 
 same position in which he saw it on his way out ; and on the 10th of that 
 month, in about 45 40' S., and 42 30' W., the remarkable circumstance 
 is mentioned by him of a lark flying on board his ship. Captain Living- 
 stone for some time preserved his refugee, with a romantic kind of super- 
 stition, as a sure pledge that so frail and delicate a little thing must have 
 come from land, at no great distance from him. 
 
 " Not only has Captain Livingstone supplied us with his own observa- 
 tions, but he has collected much information from other navigators, on the 
 important subject before us. We learn from him, that brushwood was 
 seen by the brig Inca, in the latitude of 43 30' S., and longitude 43 W. ; 
 and that in latitude 44 45' S., and longitude 43 30' W., land is said to have 
 been seen by the Salacia. The brushwood seen by Mr. Lincoln, in the Inca, 
 appeared to have been some days in the water, and might have drifted 
 from the S. W., the direction in the position of which Haig's island was 
 seen. The position of the brig Salacia from the Pacific was calculated by 
 Captain Livingstone, and is in a S. S. W. direction from the position of 
 the Inca, and between it and that of Haig's island ; and we should also 
 have observed, that on the same day on which Captain Livingstone 
 caught the lark, other land-birds were seen, besides much rock-weed 
 and tangle, all of which gradually disappeared as "he proceeded to the 
 northward. 
 
 " With the foregoing data, we have to consider the position of the island 
 reported by Captain Haig. That an island does exist somewhere about 
 these parts, there would seem to be good reason for supposing, or from 
 whence can come all these indications* of land that have been so frequently 
 seen ? And, allowing that an island does exist there, unknown, and con- 
 cealed from the destroyer man, it may easily be supposed to afford ample 
 and secure retreat for the numerous birds that have been seen thereabouts. 
 But the probable position of it is the important point ; and this involves 
 all that we have had before us. 
 
 " We had got thus far in our investigation of the position of this island, 
 when we found in the British Museum the work to which Dalrymple 
 refers, as his authority for the actual existence of it. The title of it 
 runs thus : ' Descripcion Geographica, y Derrotero de la Region Arutral 
 Magallanica, Que le dirige, &c. Ano de 1690. Compresto por el Capitan 
 Don Francisco, Seixo y Lovera, &c.' 
 
 " Having read the above-named work, we are at a loss to imagine upon 
 what pretensions the island could have been laid down in the chart, more 
 particularly, when it is known that icebergs are so prevalent, at certain 
 seasons of the year, in that part of the ocean. The only thing certain is 
 the derivation of the name, ISLE GRANDE, signifying a very large island ; 
 all the rest is mere coujecture.t 
 
 " Captain Haig's letter was dated in March, (1834,) and the circumstance 
 of icebergs being met with by H. M. S. Pylades, under the command of 
 Captain Blanckley, on the 6th of March, in latitude 37 S. and longitude 
 47 30' W., corroborates our opinion, that this was nothing more than one 
 of them. It was reported, we believe, that there were more icebergs 
 
 * The Falkland islands are not wooded, to allow of the supposition that the branches can 
 be from them. 
 
 + The Spanish description, with its translation, will be found in the Nautical Magazine for 
 1835, page 4.
 
 208 
 
 than usual in the South Atlantic at that time, and that they extended 
 further north than where they are commonly found." 
 
 29. BOUVETS, OR CIRCUMCISION ISLAND. This island 
 was first discovered by Monsieur Bouvet, and has subsequently been seen 
 by the Swan and Otter, two English vessels, at different periods The 
 Swan, in 1 808, discovered high land, and used every effort for 4 or 5 days 
 to get close to it, without being able to get nearer than 3 miles, on account 
 of a mass of solid ice surrounding it, and the land itself was covered with 
 snow. Their situation was rendered very perilous at times, being beset 
 with loose masses and islands of ice, in dark blowing weather, which forced 
 them to depart from this inhospitable place on the llth of October. It 
 appeared about 5 miles in extent, east and west. The west end, which is 
 very high land, is called Dalrymple's head, or as Monsieur Bouvet named 
 it, Cape Circumcision. Although the Swan was prevented by the ice from 
 approaching close to it in October, this might probably be effected in 
 January or February. 
 
 This island was visited in December, 1832, by Captain Morrell, who 
 observes that it lies nearly true East from South Georgia, being in latitude 
 54 15' S., and longitude 6 11' E., about 400 [430] leagues S. S. W. 
 (true) from the Cape of Good Hope. We continued our course, with 
 variable winds and occasional heavy weather, attended with much snow 
 and hail, until Friday, December 6, when we saw the island for which we 
 were bound, bearing E. S. E., distant one league. This was at 2 p. m., 
 and at 3 the next morning I sent the second mate with a well-manned 
 boat to search for seal, on the shores of the island. At 7 o>- m. the boat 
 returned with eighty-four seals of a superior quality ; and the officer re- 
 ported that the seal were perfectly tame, so much so, that they would come 
 up and play among the men who were skinning their companions. On 
 the western shore of the island was fine anchorage, inside of an immense 
 number of ice islands, lying from one to three miles off shore; all of them 
 aground in from 10 to 100 fathoms of water. Some of these islands were 
 a mile in circumference, and lay so close to each other that it was with 
 difficulty that the vessel was gotten between them to the anchorage : 
 but here, on the N. W. side of the island, in 17 fathoms, of water, she 
 anchored, about half a mile from shore, entirely sheltered by the ice islands 
 on one side, and Bouvet's island on the other, from every point of the 
 compass. On the morning of the 8th, at 3 a. m., they were again sent to 
 examine the island, and discover new rookeries ; but, after sailing com- 
 pletely round, not another spot could be found on which a seal could land, 
 the shores being either perpendicular, or covered by projecting cliffs. 
 
 30. L' AIGLE SHOAL is said to have been seen on the 1st of 
 October, 1817, by Mr. R. Poole, of the ship L' Aigle. It was described 
 as extending North and South 200 or 300 yards. The ship was then 
 steering S. E., and about three-quarters of a mile from it, off and on 
 steering South, about a mile and a half, had soundings in 87 fathoms. 
 
 The existence of this shoal is rendered very doubtful. It has been 
 unsuccessfully sought for by Captains Jaffray, Weddell, and Lincoln ; the 
 former searched for it five times, twice in the year 1819, once in 1820, 
 again on the 13th June, 1821, and the last time in March, 1824; he then 
 resolved, however often he might pass, never to look for it again. Captain 
 Jaffray says " that between the Falkland islands and the main-land, as 
 well as in many parts of the Chinese sea, he has seen tide-rips, or races, 
 appear like very high breakers, and perhaps no soundings at the place. 
 The imaginary shoal of L' Aigle seems therefore to have been a rip of this 
 description only. Captain James Weddell, in H. M. S. Tartar, on the
 
 209 
 
 2nd January, 1823, was in latitude 51 55' S., and longitude 65 7' 15" 
 W., and hauled up in order to obtain a sight of the shoal ; but, with a run 
 of 14 miles, and a view of 10 from the mast-head, nothing of it was seen. 
 Lastly, Captain Lincoln, of the brig Inca, cruised in search of it, so that if 
 it had existed it could scarcely have been missed. 
 
 31. AURORA ISLES, supposed to have been first seen in 1762, by 
 the ship Aurora, after which they were named, and again in 1790, by the 
 ship Principassa, The corvette Atrevida, in 1794, went purposely to 
 ascertain their positions, and they were then described as three, very 
 nearly in the same meredian ; the central one rather low, and the other 
 two so high as to be seen 9 leagues off. Positions. Northern isle, latitude 
 52 37' 24' S., longitude 47 43' 30" W. ; Middle isle, latitude 53 2' 40" 
 S., longitude 47 55' 30" W. ; Southern isle, latitude 53 15' 22" S., longi- 
 tude 47 57' 30" W. From the credibility of the documents Captain 
 Weddell was induced, in 1820, to make a strict search for the islands, the 
 particulars of which he has given at large. He traversed in every direc- 
 tion, but nothing like land, even in fine clear weather, was to be seen ; at 
 last he says, 'the only chance now left us for finding these Auroras, I con- 
 ceived, was by making various courses between the latitudes of 53 15' 
 S., and 52 57' S. ; and this we did, till we reached the longitude (by 
 chronometer) of 46 29' W. Having all this time seen nothing resembling 
 land, excepting fog banks, which had often given us severe disappointment, 
 we returned westward, and on the 5th of February, at noon, our latitude 
 was 55 44' S., and longitude 48 33' W. We had thus again passed over 
 the site of these islands to no purpose. On the 6th, our latitude, by ob- 
 servation, was 53 24' S., and longitude, by chronometers, 49 29' W. We 
 continued to stand to the westward, under easy sail, with the wind nor- 
 therly ; and on the 7th, our latitude, by observation, was 53 33' S., and 
 longitude 51 5' W. Having thus diligently searched through the sup- 
 posed situation of the Auroras, I concluded that the discoverers must have 
 been misled by appearances ; I therefore considered any further cruise to 
 be an improvident waste of time, and, to the gratification of my officers 
 and crew, directed our course to the Falkland Islands." 
 
 The islands have since been sought for by Captain Morrel, Captain Bis- 
 coe, Captain Johnson, of New York, and others, but with no better 
 success ; and of their non-existence there seems no longer to be any doubt. 
 
 32. THE SHAG ROCKS are said to be even with the water, but 
 Captain Weddell says, "this I believe not to be the case, as I have been 
 credibly informed that they appear in three pinnacles, or in the shape of 
 sugar-loaves, 60 or 70 feet high, with a reef running around them. These 
 reefs, I presume, have given rise to the supposed existence of the Aurora 
 islands." 
 
 33. KAIN'S ISLET is said to have been passed in November, 1828, 
 by the Kains transport, Lieutenant T. Burdwood, agent, in her passage 
 from Rio Janeiro to Valparaiso. The existence of such a rock had been 
 reported by the Spaniards in 1 813, but was considered as doubtful. Should 
 this islet exist, it must lie about 120 miles south from the Falkland 
 islands, a tract of sea frequently traversed by Captain Weddell and 
 others. 
 
 34. POTTINGER'S BANK was passed over on the 5th of January, 
 1822, by Captain Pottinger, of the brig Tartar, of London, on his passage 
 from South Georgia to South Shetland, in latitude 54 36' S., longitude 
 57 49' W., soundings, 65 fathoms, coral rocks, with sea-eggs and shells. 
 He supposed that he had passed over a considerable and much shoaler part 
 of it before daylight, judging by the agitated state of the sea. 
 
 D D
 
 210 
 
 35. ISLANDS OF ALEXANDER AND PETER were discovered 
 by the Russian Captain, Bellinghausen, in 1821. Two frigates under this 
 commander, it appears, were employed on a voyage of exploration, and 
 penetrated to the 69 of South latitude, but were unable to proceed further. 
 The particulars of this voyage have not been made known. 
 
 ICEBERGS. Captain Horsburgh observes, that icebergs off the bank 
 of Cape Agulhas probably have been the cause of the loss of some missing 
 ships ; for Captain Milchior, of the French ship Harmonic, has given an 
 extract from his journal of the 7th April, 1828, stating, that in latitude 
 31 50' S., longitude 15 45' E. from Paris, he fell in with several clusters 
 of icebergs, some of which appeared to be more than two cables' length 
 from the nearest large pieces of ice, upon which the sea broke violently. 
 If this statement be correct, it is very remarkable that icebergs should 
 have been found in the situation here given ; for, hitherto, none appear to 
 have been seen to the northward of latitude 44 or 45 S., in the Southern 
 Ocean, near the longitude of the Cape Bank ; and that these icebergs 
 should have been seen early in April, or in the autumn of the southern 
 hemisphere, when the sea ought to be clearer of ice for a greater distance 
 to the southward than at any other season, renders this statement of 
 Captain Milchior's still more surprising. 
 
 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 
 
 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS, (by the Spaniards called the MA- 
 LUINAS) form a group or cluster of nearly ninety islands, extending north 
 and south from latitude 50 58' to 52 46' S., and east and west from lon- 
 
 S'tude 57 32' to 61 29' W. They were first seen in 1592, by Captain 
 avis, who sailed under the command of Sir Thomas Cavendish, and two 
 years afterwards by Sir Richard Hawkins. They were afterwards succes- 
 sively seen by other navigators, such as Dampier, Cowley, Strong, &c. 
 The latter gave them their present name, in honour of Viscount Falkland. 
 There is no appearance whatever of these islands having ever been in- 
 habited previous to their discovery by Europeans ; and the navigators who 
 first landed on their shores found the animals so totally unacquainted with 
 man, that the birds suffered themselves to be taken by the hand, and even 
 settled upon the heads of the people^ 
 
 The first attempt at settling in these islands was made by the French, 
 after losing Canada, in 1763, who selected them as a place of shelter and 
 refreshment for vessels bound to the South Seas. For this purpose they 
 established a little colony on the eastern island, at Berkeley Sound, which 
 they denominated the Bay of Acheron. Two years afterward, the British 
 took possession of these islands, and settled a colony in Port Egmont. But 
 neither attempts succeeded. The French ceded their settlement to the 
 Spaniards in 1767; and the English abandoned theirs, as useless, in 1774. 
 The Spaniards seem to have made no use of them, other than as a place 
 for the transportation of convicts. In the month of November, 1820, 
 Commodore Jewitt, then commanding the Heroine frigate, took formal 
 possession of the islands, in the name and by the authority of the United 
 Provinces of South America, or government of La Plata, otherwise 
 Buenos-Ayres. 
 
 After these islands had heen abandoned by the Spaniards, they remained 
 unoccupied until the year 1825, when Don Louis Vernet, a German by 
 birth, resident in America from his youth upward, was induced to visit and
 
 211 
 
 inspect them, with a view of settling there. Having matured his plans, 
 he returned, and made application to the government of La Plata, upon 
 which he had certain claims, for a grant of them to him. He partially suc- 
 ceeded, and this government made over to him the eastern island as his 
 property for ever, with entire and sole right to all its soil, cattle, horses, 
 hogs, fisheries, &c., and he consequently formed a settlement upon it. 
 Subsequently, however, the settlement was abandoned by its proprietor, 
 who, however, left a remnant of the population, under the superintendance 
 of Mr. Matthew Brisbane.* In December, 1832, the sovereignty of the 
 islands was disputed by the government of Fredonia, as to the right of La 
 Plata ; and while the dispute was contested, the islands, under an order of 
 our government, were taken possession of by Commodore Onslow, of 
 H. M. S. CUo, who left a small party at Port Louis, under a Mr. William 
 Dickson, for the protection of the British flag ; but, unfortunately, without 
 adequate protection for them and the people left by Mr. Vernet. And it 
 appeared, by a dispatch, dated November, 1833, that eight gauchost and 
 Indians, of bad character, on the 26th of August, in that year, had attacked 
 and murdered Mr. Brisbane, Mr. Dickson, and three other principal per- 
 sons ; after which they pillaged the houses, plundered the place of what- 
 ever it contained, and drove off all the cattle and horses up the country, 
 laden with their booty. Thirteen unarmed men, three women, and two 
 children, remained in the town two days with the murderers,! and then 
 escaped to the islands in the bay, where, until relieved, they lived upon eggs 
 only. On the return of a party which had left the settlement, for the pur- 
 pose of sealing, it was found, on examination, that all the trunks and boxes 
 had been broken up, and every article in the houses ransacked and cut to 
 pieces. The bodies of Mr. Brisbane and others were found, and the English 
 jack was again hoisted. 
 
 At the beginning of the year 1834, Lieutenant H. Smith, R. N., was 
 appointed governor of these islands, accompanied by a small party, as the 
 nucleus of a future colony. The old settlement, at the head of Berkeley 
 sound, was fixed upon, as the head quarters. It was estimated, this time, 
 that 7,000 head of fine wild cattle, and 500 wild horses, were roaming over 
 a large expanse of most excellent pasturage. " In one point of view, these 
 islands present to the English a most important feature. It has hitherto 
 been the custom, for almost all vessels returning home from the colonies of 
 New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land, to put into Brazil for refresh- 
 ments. This takes them out of their direct track, causes great loss of time, 
 and is done only by incurring such expenses as very materially lessen the 
 value to the owners of the ships' cargoes. But the eastern island lies in 
 the direct track of every ship, after she has doubled Cape Horn. It pos- 
 sesses a beautiful harbour, of easy access, where can be obtained excellent 
 water, fine beef, good vegetables, and, in case of the illness of seamen, 
 plenty of the finest antiscorbutic grasses." The two main islands are now 
 denominated the EAST AND WEST FALKLANDS. The western island is the 
 Grand Maluina of the Spaniards, and the eastern the Sdedad of the French. 
 FALKLAND SOUND, which separates these islands, is from 7 to 12 miles 
 
 * This gentleman was the friend and companion of the respected Captain Weddell, in his 
 enterprising voyage of 1822, 3, and 4. He then commanded the cutter Beaufoy. 
 
 + The country peasants of South America, celebrated for their horsemanship, and for the 
 use of the bolos and the lasso, with which they catch wild horses and other cattle. 
 
 + They were ultimately taken, and sent for trial to Buenos-Ayres.
 
 212 
 
 broad, and it contains many islets ; but, by attention to the chart, it may 
 be navigated with safety. Its harbours are safe and commodious. 
 
 EAST FALKLAND ISLAND. M. Louis Vernet, whose name has 
 been already noticed, the public are indebted for the following description, 
 which was communicated to the Royal Geographical Society, by Woodbine 
 Parish, Esq., F. R. &, 14th January, 1833. EAST FALKLAND ISLAND is 
 favourably situated, both for colonization, and for the refreshment of vessels 
 bound round Cape Horn. Its proximity to the Cape, and its excellent 
 harbours, most of which are of easy access, with good holding ground, and 
 sufficient depth of water for even first-rate men-of-war, would alone make 
 it a valuable possession ; whilst the facilities it affords for exercising ships' 
 companies ashore, without the risk of losing them, together with the 
 abundance of wild cattle and antiscorbutic herbs found there, point it out 
 as a most desirable resort for ships which have been long at sea, and whose 
 crews are threatened with scurvy. 
 
 The climate on the island is, on the whole, temperate. The temperature 
 never falls below 26 Fahrenheit in the coldest winter, nor rises above 75 
 in the hottest summer ; its general range is from 30 to 50 in winter, 
 50 to 75 in summer. The weather is rather unsettled, particularly in 
 winter ; but the showers, whether of rain, snow, or hail, are generally of 
 short duration, and their effects are never long visible on the surface of the 
 ground. Thus, floods are unknown ; snow disappears in a few hours, un- 
 less on the tops of the mountains, and ice is seldom found above an inch 
 thick. Thunder and lightning are of rare occurrence ; fogs are frequent, 
 especially in autumn and spring, but they usually dissipate towards noon. 
 The winter is rather longer than the summer, but the difference is not 
 above a month, and the long warm days of summer, with occasional 
 showers, produce a rapid vegetation in that season. 
 
 The wind blows commonly from the N. W. in summer, S. W. in winter, 
 and seldom long from the eastward in either season. The finest weather 
 in winter is when the wind draws from the W. or N. W., and, in summer, 
 when it stands at N. W. or N. E. A north wind almost always brings 
 rain, especially in summer ; and E. and S. E. winds are constantly accom- 
 panied by thick and wet weather. Snow squalls generally come from the 
 S. S. E. ; South, or S. S. "W. storms are most frequent at the changes of 
 the seasons, and blow commonly from S. S. W. to W. S. W., but they 
 seldom last above 24 hours. 
 
 The soil of East Falkland island has been found well adapted to cultiva- 
 tion, consisting generally of from six to eight inches of black vegetable 
 mould, below which is either gravel or clay. Wheat and flax were both 
 raised, of quality equal, if not superior, to the seed sown, which was pro- 
 cured from Buenos- Ayres ; and potatoes, cabbage, turnips, and other kinds 
 of vegetables, produced largely, and of excellent quality. Fruit-trees were 
 not tried, the plants sent from Buenos- Ayres having perished before they 
 arrived. 
 
 The soil also produces different kinds of vegetables wild, as celery, 
 cresses, &c., and many other esculent plants, the proper names of which 
 were not known to the settlers, but their palatable taste, and valuable anti- 
 scorbutic properties, were abundantly ascertained by them. Among others 
 is one which they called the tea-plant, growing close to the ground, and 
 producing a berry the size of a large pea, white, with a tinge of rose-colour, 
 and of exquisite flavour. A decoction of its leaves is a good substitute for 
 tea, whence its name. It is very abundant. 
 
 No trees grow on the island, but wood for building was obtained, toler- 
 ably easily, from the adjoining Straits of Magellen. For fuel, besides peat
 
 213 
 
 and turf, which arc abundant in many places, and may be procured dry 
 out of the penguins' holes, three kinds of bushes are found, called fachi-, 
 nal, matajo, and gruillera. The first of these grows straight, from two to 
 five feet high, and the stem, in proportion to the height, is from half an inch 
 to one inch and a half in diameter : small woods of this are found in all the 
 valleys, and form good cover ; it bears no fruit. The second is more abun- 
 dant in the southern than in the northern part of the island ; its trunk is 
 nearly the thickness of a man's arm, very crooked, never higher than three 
 feet, and bears no fruit. The gruillera is the smallest of the three, growing 
 close to the ground, and abundant all over the island ; being easily ignited, 
 it was chiefly used as fuel, when the people were away from the settlement, 
 and to light the peat-fires in the houses. It bears a small dark red berry, 
 of the size of a large pea, of an insipid taste. 
 
 The country, in the northern part of the island, is rather mountainous. 
 The highest part was called San Simon, at no great distance from the bottom 
 of Berkeley sound. The tops of the mountains are thickly strewn with large 
 boulders, or detached stones, of which quantities have fallen, in some places, 
 in lines along their sides, looking like rivers of stones ; these are alternated 
 with extensive tracts of marshy ground, descending from the very tops of the 
 mountains, where many large fresh-water ponds are found, from one to two 
 feet deep. The best ground is at the foot of the mountains, and of this 
 there is abundance fit for cultivation, in plains, stretching from 5 to 15 miles 
 along the margin of the sea. In the southern peninsula there is hardly a 
 rising ground that can be called a hill. Excellent fresh water is found 
 everywhere, and may be procured either by digging, or from the rivulets, 
 which flow from the interior towards the sea, through valleys covered with 
 a rich vegetation. 
 
 Herds of wild horned-cattle exist on the island, sufficient to maintain a 
 great many settlers, and wild hogs are abundant in the northern peninsula ; 
 wild horses are also found there, of small size, but very hardy, which, when 
 broken in, as some were without difficulty, were found of great service to 
 the settlement. Rabbits are in great numbers, of a large size, and fine fur. 
 Foxes too are found, but differing considerably from those of Europe, 
 having a thick head and coarse fur ; they live chiefly on geese and other 
 fowl, which they catch at night when asleep. 
 
 Game is extremely common, especially wild geese and ducks ; of the 
 former two kinds were distinguished, the lowland or kelp geese, and the 
 upland geese ; the latter were much superior in flavour, the former being 
 of a fishy taste, living chiefly on mussels, shrimps, and kelp. Both were 
 very tame, and the upland geese were easily domesticated. They are finest 
 eating in autumn, being then fattest, in consequence of the abundance at 
 that season of tea-berries, of which they are very fond ; the rest of the 
 year they live on the short grass. They have a white neck and breast, 
 with the rest of the body speckled of a fine brown marbled colour. The 
 lowland gander is quite white, and the goose dark, with a speckled breast. 
 
 Of ducks there are several kinds. The loggerheaded are the largest, and 
 almost of the size of the geese ; their flesh is tough and fishy ; they cannot 
 fly, and when cut off from the water are easily caught. The next size is 
 also of inferior quality, tough and fishy ; but the smaller kinds, which are 
 not larger than young pigeons, are deliciously good, and are found in large 
 flocks along the rivulets and fresh- water ponds. Snipes are found so tame, 
 that they were often killed by throwing ramrods at them. In addition to 
 these, a great variety of sea-birds frequent the shores, of which the most 
 valuable to sailors and settlers, from the quantity of eggs they deposit, are 
 the gulls and penguins. These birds have their fixed rookeries, to which
 
 214 
 
 they resort, in numerous flocks, every spring ; the gulls generally in green 
 places near the shore, or on the small islands in the bays ; the penguins 
 chiefly along the steep rocky shores of the sea. The eggs of both are 
 eatable, even with relish, after long confinement on board ship, the pen- 
 guin's being, however, the best, and less strong than that of the gull. So 
 numerous are these eggs, that on one occasion eight men gathered 60,000 
 in four or five days, and could easily have doubled that number, had they 
 stopped a few days longer. Both gulls and penguins will lay six or eight 
 each, if removed ; otherwise, they only lay two, and hatch them. The gulls 
 come first to their hatching-places, the penguins a little later. 
 
 Fish abounds in all the bays and inlets, especially in spring, when they 
 come to spawn at the mouths of the fresh-water rivulets. They generally 
 enter and retire twice every day, at half-flood and half-ebb, and arc in such 
 numbers, that ten or twelve men could always catch and salt about sixty 
 tons in less than a month. They were usually caught by a sweeping-net, 
 but they also took the hook, being of a kind between the mullet and sal- 
 mon. Their flavour was excellent, and when salted, they were considered 
 superior to the cod ; many ship-loads might be procured annually. 
 
 Of shell-fish there are only mussels and clams ; they are very abundant, 
 and easily gathered on the beach at low water. 
 
 Seals are found on the island, or rather on the rocks close to it ; and 
 hair-seals (lions and elephants) abound along its shores. Many black 
 whales have been also caught in its neighbourhood, in consequence of which, 
 the island has of late years been much resorted to by fishing-vessels 
 English, American, and French ; of these eighty-nine touched at it be- 
 tween 1826 and 1831. 
 
 " VESSELS APPROACHING BERKELEY SOUND, from the northward, should 
 endeavour to make the land 10 or 15 miles west of the port, the prevailing 
 winds being westerly ; and when approaching from the southward, should, 
 in like manner, make allowance for the currents, which frequently run very 
 strong to the northward. When entering the Sound, a sufficient berth 
 must be given to a ledge of rocks, called the Volunteer rocks, which run 
 out from the north point about a mile and a quarter; outside of which, in 
 nearly the same line, at a further distance of about another mile, is a single 
 sunken rock, with only six feet on it at low tide. When these rocks are 
 cleared, and the sound is fairly entered, there is no danger, except from a 
 small ledge of rocks off Eagle point, about two cables' length from the 
 shore, with kelp growing all over it, and therefore easily seen. Above this 
 point the sound is quite clear till well up, when a ledge of five or six black 
 rocks will be seen on the north side, behind which is an excellent harbour, 
 called Johnson's harbour, with good holding ground in 6 or 7 fathoms, and 
 greater convenience for watering than in any other part of the bay. 
 
 " If a ship, endeavouring to enter Berkeley sound, find the wind blowing 
 hard down, which is often the case, and is thus prevented getting to a 
 suitable anchorage in the bay, a good port exists immediately south of the 
 sound, and about 2| miles from the small islands in its mouth, called Port 
 William, or Harriet's bay. This is of easy access, and fresh water may be 
 easily obtained in it. In going in, ships should keep on the north shore, 
 about two cables' length distant, as the tide runs strong. The flood runs 
 to the southward, and the ebb to the N. E." 
 
 To the south of Berkley sound, the coast of East Falkland island should 
 not be approached too near, particularly in thick weather, there being no 
 correct chart of it, and many low and dangerous islands lying off, some of 
 them even out of sight of the land, particularly to the southward. 
 
 REMARKS BY MR. EDWARD GULLIVER, MASTER 11. N. " BERKELEY
 
 215 
 
 SOUND is easily made out by the breadth of the entrance, which is plainly 
 visible some miles at sea. Off Cape St. Vincent are the Volunteer rocks ; 
 and a sunken rock, on which a French corvette struck, is said to lie about 
 N. E. by E. three quarters of a mile from the Volunteer rocks ; therefore 
 a good berth should be given to it, when hauling round into the sound. 
 There are also some rocks off Cape Pembroke, the southern point of the 
 sound ; they extend about one mile and a quarter out from the point ; but 
 when within the points, the sound, for about 7 miles, is perfectly clear, and 
 may be worked up without danger. Be careful not to stand too close to 
 Cape Nelson, off which some rocks lie. After working up about seven 
 miles, the Sea Lion islands, or rocks, will be seen, with a patch of kelp 
 about them, that extends to the point they lie off; and also to the southern 
 end of them, and nearly midway between the Sea Lion islands and the 
 east point of Goat island, another large patch of kelp will be seen, on each 
 side of which there is a passage ; but be careful not to get in among the 
 kelp,* as many dangers unknown may exist among it. In H. M. S. Tyne, 
 we worked in, blowing fresh between the Sea Lion islands and this patch 
 of kelp, and tacked entirely by our approach to the kelp on each side. 
 We worked up as far as to bring the eastern extreme of Goat island to 
 bear S. E.; small island of Ellice island, West; kelp in midway, East; and 
 the Sea Lion islands, E. N. E., when, in consequence of not thinking it 
 prudent in so large a ship to work up any further, we anchored in less 
 9 fathoms, good holding ground, and gave her good scope of cable. 
 
 " With a fair wind, a ship may safely run inside all the islands, taking 
 care to keep Goat island on the larboard hand, when a good berth may be 
 picked up in 5 fathoms, mud, with the settlement of Fort Louis bearing 
 W. N. W. one mile ; western point of Ellice island, N. E. ; and western 
 point of Goat island, S. E. Although this anchorage is handy for the 
 watering-place and settlement, in S. W. gales, it is not so smooth as the 
 anchorage we had in the Tyne ; but I would not, on any acconnt, recom- 
 mend any square-rigged vessel, larger than a ten gun-brig, working up 
 further than we did in the Tyne. 
 
 " Water may be had at the settlement, by sending on shore your water- 
 casks, and filling them. Cattle are plentiful here, and may be obtained in 
 any numbers, by giving the guachos twenty-four hours' notice : the price 
 we paid was ten dollars a head. The same abundance of wild ducks, 
 geese, and snipe as at Port Egmont. There are also a great number of 
 wild horses in East Falkland. 
 
 " FALKLAND SOUND, so called, being the channel between the two prin- 
 cipal islands, East and West Falkland, is easily made out, by a very re- 
 markable rock, called the Eddystone, which lies about 4 leagues N. by E. 
 from White Rock point, and W. by N., 6 miles, from Cape Dolphin. It 
 may be seen from the deck, in clear weather, 5 or 6 leagues. It makes, at 
 
 * The following extract, from Captain King's directions for the Straits of Magellan, will give 
 the reader a correct idea of the dangerous nature of kelp. " With daylight and clear weather, 
 a vessel may close the shore without risk, because the water is invariably deep, and no rock is 
 found, which is not so marked by sea-weed, (or kelp, as it is generally called) that, by a good 
 look-out at the mast-head, its situation is as clearly seen as if it were buoyed. By avoiding 
 kelp, you are sure of having sufficient water for the largest ships on any part of this coast. At 
 the same time it must be remembered, that kelp grows in some places from a depth of 30 
 fathoms, and that, on many parts of this coast, you may pass through tlu'ck beds of sea-weed 
 without having less than 6 fathoms water. Still it is always a sign of danger, and, until the 
 spot where it grows has been carefully sounded, it is not safe to pass over it in a ship. As an 
 instance : After sounding a large bed of this weed, in one of the Beagle's boats, and thinking 
 it might be passed safely, a rock was found, not more than 4 feet in diameter, having only one 
 fathom water over it."
 
 216 
 
 first, something like a sail, and appears to be pretty bold all round. The 
 land also, half-way between Cape Dolphin and the eastern entrance of the 
 sound, is rather high and rugged ; and White Rock point is also remarkable, 
 from some white rocks that lie off it : it is the western point of the en- 
 trance into the sound. The soundings, off the entrance of the sound, are 
 laid down very correctly in Lieutenant Edger's chart, but his distance be- 
 tween Keppel Island Keys and the Eddystone is very much out. In 
 H. M. S. Tyne we measured it, and made it as near as possible 35 miles, 
 when Lieutenant Edger makes it 52 miles in his chart. I also make the 
 latitude of the Eddystone 51 10' S., which is about 6 miles further north 
 than laid down in the charts. West Falkland island is generally higher 
 than the East, and both are very uneven, and the land much indented." 
 Nautical Magazine, 1834, page 388. 
 
 The WESTERN ISLANDS are very high, and in fine weather may be seen 
 50 miles off. The tops are entire rock, the lower parts rich and productive. 
 On the S. E. side of the Grand island, and at some few miles in the interior, 
 natural curiosities are met with in the huge amphitheatres, large caverns, 
 &c., in which beautiful specimens of stalactites have been found, which 
 sufficiently prove the presence of lime in the country. Winds from the 
 west and north are said to be the only check to agricultural labours. These 
 winds, more or less, during the summer months, blow with great violence, 
 from soon after sunrise till sunset. 
 
 REMARKS BY CAPTAIN GRANT, COMMANDER OP THE LADY NELSON. 
 " On the 21st of January, 1802, we came safely to an anchor in Hope bay, 
 or Little West Point harbour, in the N. W. It was our intention, at 
 first, to touch at a cluster of islands to the westward, called NEW ISLANDS, 
 by the Americans, who are the most constant visitors of Falkland Islands. 
 On New Islands are found plenty of goats and hogs. They lie about 30 miles 
 S. S. W. by compass from West Bay, as a N. N. E. course carried us from 
 them clear to the entrance of West Point. They are distinguished by a 
 particular saddle-island and a bluff, standing separately from each other. 
 They are a little to the northward of Beaver island, and may be easily 
 found by the two remarkable islands just mentioned. As it is of the 
 greatest consequence to mariners, when in want of water or refreshments, 
 to obtain every possible information, in order to secure a port amongst 
 this foul-weather group of islands, which purpose may be defeated by the 
 smallest oversight, I think that a few remarks made in the run may not 
 be unacceptable. 
 
 " Having made New Islands, the westerly wind, which generally pre- 
 vails, blowing very strong and in squalls, would not permit us to anchor ; 
 we were, therefore, under the necessity either of making the harbour of 
 West Point, or running in the night through a passage among the Jasons, well 
 known to be full of rocks and shoals, many of them not laid down in any 
 chart. I have before observed, that, thirty miles, N. N. E., by compass, 
 brought us to the entrance of West Point harbour. In this run there are, 
 on the right hand, a few small flat islands, called Pass islands. These 
 ought to be kept on board, near enough to see the surf breaking on them ; 
 and, soon after, a remarkable island, with a steep side, will present itself, 
 having the appearence of a split in the middle, which has given it the 
 name of Split island. 
 
 " The split must be brought to bear S. by W. in running in, and N. 
 by E. in coming out ; observing this, a vessel will find itself in the fair- 
 way ; and right ahead coming in, or right astern going out, a sight will 
 be had of West Point entrance, making at first like three hummocks, to 
 the right of which is the mouth of the harbour. The small harbour on the
 
 217 
 
 left is preferable to the larger one on the right, though anchorage may be 
 found in both ; but fresh water may more readily be had in the little harbour 
 Both these together form nearly an oval, divided by the passage which 
 runs directly through where the tides of flood and ebb alternately enter. 
 A vessel must therefore haul close round the rocks on the south side, to 
 get into the little harbour for the ebb tide, with which she must go in, 
 unless it blows very strong, so as to enable her to stem the flood, both 
 tides running here with great rapidity, and when it blows hard, raising 
 a confused sea. There is a sandy beach at the top of the harbour, off 
 which a vessel may choose her depth of water to anchor in. In going 
 out of the harbour the northern passage is most eligible ; and a westerly 
 wind, with a course N. by E., by compass, will carry a vessel out, pro- 
 vided she get under- weigh, at the first of the ebb. 
 
 " Five small perpendicular rocks, called the Needle Kays, appear 
 when out, standing together, bearing N. E. by E., or thereabout, from 
 the harbour's mouth. It is best to leave them on the right ; but should 
 there be little wind, and the tide strong, as was the case when we passed 
 them, a vessel may go close to the right of them. The tide must be at- 
 tended to, as it runs strongly betwixt them. The bottom is very foul, 
 so that if an anchor is let go, it is a chance if it be ever recovered ; and 
 should the wind continue light, the tide of flood making, a vessel may an- 
 chor at Sedge island, if she can get as far down, where 10 fathoms of water 
 will be found, with a sandy bottom, within two or three miles of the shore. 
 From Sedge island a N. by E. course will carry a vessel clear out to sea. 
 
 " It is proper to observe here, that if a vessel is obliged to leave the 
 Needle Kays on her left hand, the nearer she keeps to them the better, 
 and even to haul over on the larboard side, after she is past, as she 
 will have the more room to weather a ledge of rocks, lying at a con- 
 siderable distance out from Saunders' point, as is shown in Lieutenant 
 Edgar's chart. This passage is much preferable to running through the 
 Jasons. 
 
 PORT EGMONT, on the north side of the great island, may be de- 
 scried at some distance from the sea, and may be entered by steering S. E. 
 by S., which will lead in safely. On advancing, you will pass two rocky 
 islets, which lie about 9 miles N. N. W. from the entrance ; by passing 
 within half a mile of the western side of these, the course in will be about 
 S. S. E. ^ E. The harbour is spacious, even to a fault ; for its great size, 
 during strong winds, renders communication with the shore inconvenient. 
 The best anchorage is immediately off the creek, at the foot of the ruins, 
 bearing N. N. W., in 9 fathoms of water, about three-quarters of a mile 
 from shore. A reef extends from the east point of the creek, but may be 
 known by the kelp which grows upon it. The ground is, however, so tough 
 that the anchor will not be raised without great labour. The best watering- 
 place in this port is at the head of the creek, and the most expeditious 
 method of obtaining water is to fill the casks at low- water mark, and raft 
 them off to the vessel. The tide, on the full and change, flows at 10 
 minutes past 7, and rises about 9 feet. 
 
 REMARKS BY MR. EDWARD GULLIVER, MASTER R. N. " PORT EG- 
 MONT is situated on the north side of the island, in a fine and-, spacious 
 harbour, but difficult to be made out when first coining in from sea. The 
 entrance may be known, in clear weather, by two small islets or kays, called 
 by sailors who frequent that port, Keppel Island Kays. They are about 
 nine miles N. N. W. from the entrance ; but, in consequence of the very 
 thick fogs that prevail, and always with any wind that has nothing in it, 
 they are difficult to be made out. They are to be left on the larboard hand 
 
 E E
 
 218 
 
 going in. There are also two other low islands, that lie about W. N. W. 
 10 miles from Keppel Island Kays, called Wreck and Ledge islands, and 
 are always to be left on the starboard hand going in. 
 
 " The course into the harbour, after passing within a mile of the Keppel 
 Island Kays, on the western side, is about S. S. E. | E. There is no diffi- 
 culty or danger in running for the harbour, after you have once got hold of 
 the kays, by steering the above course, until you get within the points of 
 the entrance of the narbour, where a sunken rock is laid down in Lieu- 
 tenant Edgar's chart, just within the points, and nearly midway between 
 them ; but its existence appears to me to be doubtful, as I went away, 
 sounding at low water, for the purpose of ascertaining its position, but 
 could not find it, although I stretched across from point to point, and from 
 kelp to kelp, off both shores, and found plenty of water, 7 fathoms close 
 alongside the kelp on either shore, and gradually increasing to 16 and 17 
 fathoms, mid-channel. 
 
 " There appears to be anchorage in every part of the harbour. The best 
 is with the ruins of the old settlement bearing N. N. W., (they are just 
 round the first point on your starboard hand, when within the harbour) 
 and the watering-place W. by S., in about 9 or 10 fathoms water, good 
 holding ground, and distant from the shore about half a mile. We anchored 
 in H. M. S. Tyne, with the above bearings, in 11 fathoms, stiff mud, and 
 rode out a heavy gale, without driving. 
 
 " Water may be obtained here by sending on shore your water-casks 
 and filling them, and either rafting them off, or parbuckling them into your 
 boat as you please. There are also abundance of wild ducks, geese, both 
 upland and kelp, and also snipe, to be found here. There is also an abun- 
 dance of fish to be caught here with the seine ; in one haul, we got a suffi- 
 ciency for one ship's company. 
 
 " The rise and fall of the tide at Port Egmont is about 9 feet ; and it is 
 high water, full and change, about 7 o'clock. I made Port Egrnont, by mean 
 of three chronometers, rated only three weeks before at Fort Vilganhon, 
 Rio, to be in longitude 60 15' W., which is about 34 miles to the west- 
 ward of where Lieutenant Edgar places it. 
 
 " The coast between Keppel Island Kays and the entrance into Falkland 
 sound is pretty bold, having sailed in H. M. S. Tyne twice along it, and at 
 the distance of forty-five and six miles from the land, without discovering 
 any thing like broken water. I should therefore recommend a stranger 
 working up from Falkland sound to Port Egmont, to stand within 3 or 4 
 miles of the shore, and not too far off, when he will have no difficulty in 
 making out the islands that point out the approach to Port Egmont, as they 
 are the first islands that are made in going to the westward from Falkland 
 island." Nautical Magazine for 1834, page 387. 
 
 WEST POINT HARBOUR is the next principal anchorage to Port Egmont, 
 situated at the western extremity of the southern land of Byron's sound. 
 There are two passages into it, one on the north, and the other on the south. 
 The Jason Islands, lying to the N. W., are much in the way of the former, 
 and these islands must be cautiously avoided in the night, and in unsettled 
 weather, as the tide runs so strong and irregular amongst them as to render 
 a ship almost unmanageable. The southern passage to AVest Point harbour 
 is easily made, by being careful, when coming from the westward, to haul 
 close round West Point island, so as to enter with it on the larboard side ; 
 for, by neglecting this precaution, with the wind from the westward, you 
 may fall to leeward of the passage, and find it difficult to work out of the 
 lee bays, into which a heavy swell frequently rolls. 
 
 The best anchorage in West Point harbour is abreast of a small cove, on
 
 219 
 
 the south side, in 5 fathoms, over a bottom of sand and mud. The stream 
 of tide here is scarcely perceptible, although it rises about 9 feet by the 
 shore, and flows, on full and change days, at 7 h. 30 m. Water may be 
 obtained at the head of the cove ; and at the head of the harbour there is 
 also a run of water, in which mullets may be caught by constructing a fish- 
 weir. Water is abundant during the spring and autumn, not only here, 
 but at Beaver island, to the S. W., and at Little Port Egmont, in the west 
 side of the passage to the greater port of the same name. At the west end 
 of West Point island is a rookery of the small albatross, which in October 
 affords a good supply of eggs. Some brush-wood grows around the cove, 
 but it is too small to be useful. In proceeding through the gut of West 
 Point from the southward, with ebb-tide, which runs to the N. E. with 
 great rapidity, the great harbour, when opened, must be hastily entered, in 
 order to avoid being swept to the northward by the stream. 
 
 From the south entrance of West Point harbour, NEW ISLAND lies S. 
 25 W., 22 miles distant. Its western side presents a range of frightful 
 precipices, one of which is 550 feet above the sea, which, in westerly storms, 
 beats against its base with extraordinary violence. The eastern side, on 
 the contrary, falls sloping into points, forming bays ; and of these Ship 
 Harbour is the third from the south : this being the preferable anchorage, 
 is the most to be recommended. In proceeding to it with a strong westerly 
 wind, on rounding the north end of New island, the sail on the ship should 
 be particularly attended to, as the gusts of wind off the high land blow 
 with great violence, With the wind at S. W. the south passage may be 
 chosen ; but it is to be noticed, that a cluster, called the Seal Rocks, lie off 
 the south end of the island, between which and the rocks is the best pas- 
 sage ; and by keeping without the edge, off the kelp, which extends to a 
 short distance from the end of the island, there is no danger. The small 
 round isles, on the eastern side of New island, have good channels within, 
 and between them Ship harbour may be easily recognised, by its having a 
 small isle, Ship island, on it. Behind this is the best anchorage, in 7 
 fathoms, in a bottom of stiff clay, with the south point of Ship island bearing 
 S. E., covering the S. E. point of the bay. The anchorage is perfectly 
 land-locked. Good water may be obtained at a sandy beach, abreast of 
 the anchorage, but it should be taken at 8 or 10 yards higher than the 
 present pool on the bank, otherwise it may be brackish and undrinkable. 
 
 In sailing from the westward, in latitude 51 42' S., New island may be 
 readily distinguished, by its being the most northerly large island of that 
 cluster, and by two islets lying off its north end, called Saddle isle and 
 North head : between these and the north end of New island is a clear 
 passage, but in which, during strong winds, the tide ripples violently. 
 
 PORT EDGAR. In 1830, H. M. S. Eden, commanded by Captain W. F. W. 
 Owen, was forced into Port Edgar, by stress of weather, when on her way 
 from Cape Horn to Rio Janeiro, in the month of March. Captain Owen 
 describes it as " a beautiful port, having many advantages for a settlement, 
 with abundance of water, peat, good soil, and stock. The depth of water, 
 in the middle of the entrance, is 18 fathoms ; and the general depth in the 
 port, between the two points, Leven and Eden, is 210 fathoms across, but 
 150 only clear of the weed off each point, and there is a depth of 4 fathoms 
 alongside these points. No current of tide was observed during the last 
 three days of the moon's first quarter, and a rise and fall of only 3 feet." 
 
 Captain Owen further observes, "that a convenient port is much wanted 
 on the southern coast of the West Falkland island ; for ships are frequently 
 caught in furious southern gales, in rounding the Horn, and sometimes 
 suffer much injury. Such a port as that of Edgar would not only afford
 
 220 
 
 such shelter, but is convenient to start from, with the first of a North or 
 N. W. wind, which would carry them clear round. It would answer much 
 better as a private speculation, in the hands of an independent company, 
 and being a free port, than as a public concern." There is no timber to be 
 seen, but Captain Owen is of opinion^ that English woods would grow in 
 the sheltered valleys, and on the northern and eastern slopes of the hills. 
 
 The Eden was overtaken by a furious gale, between Beauchene and 
 Porpoise point, with thick snow and hail-storms, when, not being able to 
 weather Beauchene, nor to see around, Captain Owen was obliged to seek 
 a port. Two days afterwards, the Durance, a French frigate store-ship, 
 was placed in similar circumstance, and just weathered Beauchene. 
 (Nautical Magazine for 1832, page 397. ) 
 
 SOUTH GEORGIA. 
 
 IN 1675, SOUTH GEORGIA was discovered by Antony La Roche, and in 
 1775 was explored by Captain Cook, from whose description the fol- 
 lowing is taken. " At 9 a, m. (January 14th) saw an island of ice, as 
 we then thought, but at noon were doubtful whether it was ice or land. 
 At this time it bore E. f S., distant 13 leagues. Our latitude was 
 53 56' 30" S., longitude 39 24' W. Several penguins, small divers, a 
 snow petrel, and a vast number of blue petrels about the ship. We had 
 but little wind all the morning, and at two p. m. it fell calm. It was now 
 no longer doubted that it was land, and not ice, which we had in sight. At 
 four in the morning of the 16th, wore and stood to the east, with the wind 
 at S. S. E., a moderate breeze and fair ; at eight o'clock, saw the land ex- 
 tending from E. by N. to N. E. by N. At noon, observed in latitude 
 54 25' 30" S., longitude 38 18' W. In this situation we had 110 fathoms 
 of water, and the land extending N. 4 "W". to East, 8 leagues distant. The 
 northern extremity was the same that we first discovered, and it proved 
 to be an island, which obtained the name of WILLIS'S ISLAND, after the 
 person who first saw it. It is a high rock, of no great extent, near to 
 which are some rocky islets. Willis's island is situated in latitude 54 S. 
 longitude 38 23' W. 
 
 " As we advanced to the north, we perceived another isle lying east of 
 Willis's, and between it and the main. This we called BIRD ISLE, on ac- 
 count of the vast number that were upon it. It is not so high, but of 
 greater extent, and is close to the N. E. point of the main land, which we 
 named Cape North The S. E. coast of this land, as far as we saw, lies in 
 the direction of S. 50 E., and N. 50 W. It seemed to form several bays 
 or inlets, and we observed large masses of snow or ice in the bottoms of 
 them, especially in one which lies two miles to the S. S. E. of Bird isle. 
 Seeing there was a clear passage between this isle and Willis's, we steered 
 for it ; and, at five o'clock, being in the middle of it, we found it about two 
 miles broad. After getting through the passage, we found the north coast 
 trended E. by N. for about nine miles, and then east and east-southerly to 
 Cape Buller, which is eleven miles more. We ranged the coast at one 
 league distance, till near ten o'clock, when we brought-to for the night, and 
 on sounding, found 50 fathoms, muddy bottom." 
 
 Captain Cook proceeded to examine the eastern coast, and took formal 
 possession of the land. The tide seemed to rise about four or five feet. 
 High water at about 1 1 h., full and change. The head of Possession bay, 
 as well as two places on each side, was terminated by perpendicular ice-
 
 221 
 
 cliffs, of considerable height. Pieces were continually breaking off, with a 
 loud explosion, and floating out to sea. " The inner parts of the country 
 were not less savage and horrible. The only vegetation we met with was 
 a coarse strong-bladed grass, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like 
 moss, which sprang from the rocks. Seals were numerous ; several flocks 
 of large penguins were seen. The oceanic birds were albatrosses, common 
 gulls, terns, shags, divers, &c. The land -birds were a few small larks. No 
 quadruped was seen." 
 
 At the S. E. end of Georgia is COOPER'S ISLE, a rock of considerable 
 height, about five miles in circuit, and one mile from the main. At this isle 
 the main coast takes a S. W. direction, for the space of four or five leagues, 
 to the point named Cape Disappointment. Off that are three small isles, 
 the southernmost of which is green, low, and flat, and lies one league from 
 the cape. 
 
 " The island seems to abound with bays and harbours, the N. E. coast 
 especially ; but the vast quantity of ice must render them inaccessible in 
 the greatest part of the year, or, at least, it must be dangerous lying in 
 them, on account of the breaking up of the ice-cliffs. It is remarkable that 
 we did not see a river, or stream of fresh water, on the whole coast. 
 I think it highly probable that there are no perennial springs in the country ; 
 and that the interior parts, as being much elevated, never enjoy heat enough 
 to melt the snow, in such quantities as to produce a river or stream of 
 water. Clerk's Rocks are three or four rocky islets, which were subse- 
 quently seen at the distance of two or three miles ; vast numbers of birds, 
 especially shags, were about them." 
 
 SOUTH GEORGIA was visited by Captain Weddell, on his return from the 
 southward, in March, 1823. On the 12th, at 3 p. m., the Jane and Beaufoy 
 anchored in Adventure bay, on the S. W. side of the island, in 7 fathoms, 
 bottom of strong clay. The following is Captain Weddell's description : 
 " The island is about 96 miles long, and its mean breadth about 10. It is 
 so indented with bays, that in several places, where they are on opposite 
 sides, they are so deep as to make the distance from the one side to the 
 other very small. Near the west end, in particular, there is a neck of this 
 kind, about half a mile broad, over which boats are frequently transported. 
 The tops of the mountains are lofty, and perpetually covered with snow ; 
 but in the valleys, during the summer season, vegetation is rather abun- 
 dant. Almost the only natural production of the soil is a strong-bladed 
 grass, as above-mentioned, the length of which is, in general, about two 
 feet ; it grows in tufts, on mounds 3 or 4 feet from the ground. No land- 
 quadrupeds are found here ; birds and amphibious animals are the only 
 inhabitants : of the bird tribe, the king-penguin is the most worthy of 
 notice." 
 
 THE SANDWICH LAND. 
 
 THIS land was first discovered in 1775, by Captain Cook, on proceeding to 
 the south-eastward from South Georgia. From the latitude of 59 30' S., 
 longitude 29 24' W., the ship stood to the N. E. over a sea strewed with 
 ice. " At half an hour past six next morning, as we were standing N. N. E., 
 with the wind at West, the fog very fortunately clearing away a little, we 
 discovered land ahead, 3 or 4 miles distant. The weather then cleared up 
 a little more, and gave us a tolerable good sight of the land. That which 
 we had fallen in with proved to be three rocky islets, of considerable height.
 
 222 
 
 The outermost terminated in a lofty peak, like a sugar-loaf, and obtained 
 the name of Freezeland peak. Behind this peak, that is to the east of it, 
 appeared an elevated coast, whose lofty snow-clad summits were seen above 
 the clouds, It extended from N. by E. to E. S. E,, and I called it Cape 
 Bristol, in honour of the noble family of Hervey. At the same time 
 another elevated coast appeared in sight, bearing S. W. by S., and at noon 
 it extended from S. E. to S. S. W., from 4 to 8 leagues distant ; at this 
 time the observed latitude was 59 13' 30" S., longitude 27 45' W. 
 I called this land SOUTHERN THULE', because it is the most southern land 
 that has yet been discovered. 
 
 "It shows a surface of vast height, and is everywhere covered with snow. 
 Some thought they saw land in the space between Thule and Cape Bristol. 
 It is more than probable that these two lands are connected, and that this 
 space is a deep bay, which I called Forster's bay. At one o'clock, finding 
 that we could not weather Thule, we tacked and stood to the north ; and, 
 at four, Freezeland peak bore East, distant 3 or 4 leagues. Soon after, it 
 fell little wind, and we were left to the mercy of a great westerly swell, 
 which set right upon the shore. We sounded, but a line of 200 fathoms 
 found no bottom. At eight o'clock, the weather, which had been very 
 hazy, clearing up, we saw Cape Bristol, bearing E. S. E., and terminating 
 in a point to the north, beyond which we could see no land. This dis- 
 covery relieved us from the fear of being carried by the swell on the most 
 horrible coast in the world, and we continued to stand to the north." 
 
 On the 2nd of February, the Candlemas Isles were seen. They appeared 
 to be of no great extent, but of considerable height, and covered with snow. 
 A small rock was seen between them, and perhaps there may be more, 
 for the weather was so hazy that the sight of them was soon lost.* In 
 closing his remarks on these lands, Captain Cook observes, " I concluded 
 that what we had seen, which I named Sandwich Land, was either a groupe 
 of islands, or else a point of the continent. For I firmly believe that there 
 is a tract of land near the pole, which is of most of the ice that is spread over 
 this vast southern ocean. I also think it probable, that it extends farthest 
 to the north, opposite the Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans ; because 
 ice was always found by us further to the north in these oceans than any- 
 where else, which I judge could not be, if there were not land to the 
 south, I mean land of considerable extent." 
 
 The brig Tula, of 148 tons, belonging to Messrs. Enderby, and com- 
 manded by MR. JOHN BISCOE, R. N., left the port of London on the 14th 
 July, 1830, on a South-Sea sealing voyage, but with special instructions 
 from her owners, also to endeavour to make discoveries in a high southern 
 latitude. She was liberally equipped with whatever appeared requisite 
 or desirable on such an enterprise, and was accompanied by the cutter 
 Lively, in the same employ, and attached to the Tula on the footing of 
 a tender. 
 
 * Captain Morrell, in the schooner Wasp, on his voyage from the eastward, 2Sth 
 February, 1823, says, " The cheering cry of ' Land ho !' resounded from aloft. This proved to be 
 the CANDLEMAS ISLES, the most northerly isles of Sandwich Land, latitude 57 10' S., longitude 
 26 59' W. These two islands are of no great extent, but one of them is of considerable 
 height ; both are burning volcanoes, and the most western is burnt down nearly to a level with 
 the sea. We continued examining these islands towards the south, until we arrived at the 
 Southern Thule', where, on the N. E. side of the westernmost island, we found a good harbour. 
 In this groupe, we saw nine burning volcanoes ; ftre in abundance, but no fuel for the Wasp. 
 Three of these islands had vomited out so much of their contents, that their parts which have 
 not been consumed by internal fires are very high, and covered with perpetual snows ; the rest 
 is broken land. The westernmost point of Southern Thule' is in latitude 59 35' 10'' S., and 
 longitude 27 42' 30" W."
 
 223 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM CAPTAIN BISCOE'S JOURNAL. " The two vessels, after 
 touching at the Cape Verd islands, for salt, arrived off the Falkland islands 
 on the 8th November, and anchored in Port Louis, Berkeley Sound, on 
 the 10th. Captain Biscoe speaks highly of the convenience of this port, 
 for vessels round Cape Horn. Fish, bullocks, and fresh water can be easily 
 procured, with a variety of antiscorbutic herbs, to use as vegetables, the 
 entrance being also clear, the anchorage good, and the depth of water con- 
 siderable, close to the beach. On the 27th November, having completed 
 their water, the Tula and her consort again proceeded to sea, and, on their 
 way to Sandwich Land, kept a vigilent look-out for the Aurora islands, 
 (before noticed in page 209.) On the 10th December, in longitude 29 14' 
 W., many icebergs were passed, which were conceived to be drifting be- 
 tween Sandwich Land and New South Shetland ; and among them the two 
 vessels parted company, to their mutual great anxiety, and did not meet 
 again till the 14th. On the 20th, an island was made, in latitude 58 25' 
 S., longitude 26 55' W. ; but its appearance being very discouraging, 
 in Captain Biscoe's words ' terrific, being nothing more than a complete 
 rock, covered with ice, snow, and heavy clouds, so that it was difficult 
 to distinguish one from the other,' no attempt was then made to land on 
 it. Proceeding to the southward, on the following day, another island 
 was distinguished in the S. "W., similar to the preceding one, which now 
 bore W. by N., and the cutter was directed to examine both, in which 
 her success was very incomplete, the boats not being able to effect a landing 
 on either. These were the Montague and Bristol islands of the charts, but 
 which Captain Biscoe places 50 miles further west than they are usually 
 laid down. The thermometer stood at 29 in the air, and 31 in the water. 
 A third, Friesland island, was seen to the southward of them, and a fourth 
 to the northward. 
 
 " Several following days were spent in endeavouring to get to the south- 
 ward, and, if possible, also to the westward, there being strong indications 
 of land in that quarter; but these were all unsuccessful. The field-ice 
 was either quite continuous and unbroken, or, where bays were formed in 
 it, and entered, these were found open but a little way, and the vessels 
 were obliged to return as they went in. Fortunately, the water was re- 
 markably smooth, even when the wind, which hung to the westward, blew 
 strong ; and this circumstance both facilitated the manoeuvring of the ves- 
 sels, and encouraged their crews to persevere, by confirming their surmises 
 as to the existence of land in the neighbourhood. On the 29th, at noon, 
 the latitude observed was 59 11' S., longitude 24 22' W., but the wind 
 blowing then hard from the S. W., further investigation in that quarter 
 was abandoned. The islands before seen were again sighted, and the lon- 
 gitudes of their centres being further determined, and confirmed to be about 
 27 W., sail was made to the eastward. 
 
 On the 5th January, 1831, the Tula and her companion were in latitude 
 59 9' S., longitude 21 52' W. ; and on the 7th, in latitude 59 35' S., lon- 
 gitude 20 21' W., closely skirting the field-ice the whole way, and ex- 
 amining every inlet, in hopes of finding a passage through it to the south- 
 ward, and, as they hoped, to clear water. In this, however, they were 
 constantly disappointed ; and, on the contrary, on the evening of the 7th, 
 says Captain Biscoe, ' my hopes in this direction were destroyed, for 
 I suddenly found myself at the head of a bay of firm ice, with a view, 
 from the mast-head, to an extent of at least 20 miles in every direction ; 
 and to the southward, the ice appeared so smooth and firm, that any one 
 might have walked on it. The weather, too, was now so clear, that I am 
 convinced, land of any considerable elevation might have been seen 80 or
 
 224 
 
 90 miles. What further astonished me was, that there were no living 
 animals of any kind about this ice, with the exception of one or two small 
 petrels, not even penguins, which at other times had been very numerous. 
 These circumstances almost convinced me that this ice must have been 
 formed at sea, the temperature of the water being then 30, and that of 
 the air 31, with frequent and very heavy falls of snow. Nevertheless, 
 there were strong indications of land in the S. W., though none was actually 
 within our horizon, and the water continued very smooth." Journal of the 
 Royal Geographical Society. Vol. 3, page 105. 
 
 SOUTH SHETLAND. 
 
 MR. WILLIAM SMITH, commander of the brig Williams, of Blyth, was the 
 first that saw this land, in the month of February, 1819. On the 19th, 
 land or ice was seen in latitude 62 40' S., and near the longitude 62 W., 
 then bearing S. E. by S. about two leagues. The Williams was at this 
 time on a voyage from Buenos- Ayres to Valparaiso, and stretching far to 
 the south. A combination of adverse circumstances, such as hard gales, 
 with flying showers of snow, and fields of ice, prevented at this time the 
 exploration of the coast ; but on a subsequent voyage, from Monte- Video 
 to Valparaiso, in October of the same year, the Williams again made the 
 land. Captain Smith says, " I, to my great satisfaction, discovered land 
 on the 15th of October, at six p. m., in latitude 62 30' S., and longitude 
 60 W., by chronometer, bearing distance about three leagues, hazy weather; 
 bore up and sailed toward it ; at four miles distant, sounded in 40 fathoms, 
 fine black sand; an island bearing E. by S. At S. E. by E. bearing, 
 sounded in 60 fathoms, same bottom ; hauled off during the night to the 
 northward ; at daylight stood in for the land again, at three leagues dis- 
 tance. From the body of the islands sounded again, 95 fathoms, fine sand 
 and ooze ; at eight, weather clear and pleasant, saw the main-land bearing 
 S. S. E., distance from the islands about three leagues. Having ran as far 
 as the Cape, we found the land trend off to the N. E. Coasting to the 
 eastward, and sounding, found it similar to the former, fine sand. A point 
 bearing E. ^ S. hauled in for it ; got the island to bear N. W., distance 
 half a league ; soundings regular from 20 to 35 fathoms, good bottom, sand 
 and gravel. Finding the weather favourable, we down boat, and succeeded 
 in landing ; found it barren, and covered with snow. Seals in abundance. 
 " The boat having returned, which, when secured, made sail off shore 
 for the ensuing night. In the morning altered the course, so as to keep 
 the land to the southward in view. Having doubled the point above- 
 mentioned, the land then took a south-easterly direction, varying to the 
 eastward ; weather thick and squally, with snow. I thought proper, 
 having property on board, and perhaps deviating from the assurance, to 
 haul off to the westward on my intended voyage. Strong variable winds. 
 Made another cape, and could perceive some high land to the westward of 
 it, and stretching in a S. W. direction. The weather becoming thick and 
 squally, we made sail to the westward, having sailed 150 miles to W. S .W. 
 The weather moderating, saw another head-land, bearing, by observation, 
 E. N. E., distance 10 leagues, very high ; observed in latitude 62 53' S., 
 and longitude, by chronometer, 63 40' W. of Greenwich ; named this 
 Smith's cape. Found the land to extend from the cape in a southerly di- 
 rection. Shaped my course for Valparaiso, where I arrived on the 24'th 
 November, after a passage of CO days from Monte Video."
 
 225 
 
 They have been frequently visited since that time, for the purpose of 
 taking fur-seals and sea-elephants, with which the shores abound. They 
 extend from E. N. E. to S. S. W., over a space of nearly 300 miles, and 
 consist of twelve islands of moderate extent, and a great number of rocks 
 and cliffs. The largest of the islands, from east to west, are Clarence, 
 Elephant, King George, Strachan, Mitchel, Sartorius, Livingston, Low, and 
 Smith. The interior of these islands consists of high hills or mountains. 
 A mountain on Smith's island attains the height of 6,600 feet above the 
 sea. They are almost entirely covered with snow all the year round, and 
 only after midsummer (in January) a few tracts, which are free from snow, 
 are overgrown with liches and mosses, in some places intercepted with a 
 sort of straggling grass. The only inhabitants of these cold regions are 
 numerous sea-fowls, as the albatross, penguin, &c., and the animals above- 
 mentioned. The surrounding sea abounds in whales and fish. Most, if 
 not all, of these islands are of volcanic origin. Captain Weddell observed 
 smoke issuing from the rocks of Bridgman island ; and the island of De- 
 ception has the form of a horse-shoe, resembling in that respect the islands 
 of the Pacific, which are formed by madrepores. The deep impression in 
 the middle of Deception island, which is 97 fathoms deep, and makes an 
 excellent harbour, (Port Foster) is doubtless a crater ; and this island may, 
 as to form, be compared with the island of Nisita, in the Bay of Naples. 
 The high rocks which enclose this crater are volcanic, rise to more than 
 800 feet above the sea, and are partly covered with ice. South of these 
 islands is a wide strait, called Bransfield strait. The coasts which constitute 
 the southern shores of this strait appear to form an extensive country, 
 which has lately attracted the attention of navigators, and rekindled the 
 spirit of enterprise in Great Britain and other countries. In 1821, Powell 
 discovered Trinity Land, south of the South Shetlands and the South Ork- 
 neys, between 60 30' and 61 S. latitude, and 44 30' and 46 30' W. 
 longitude. Palmer, an American, discovered a coast-line west of Trinity 
 Land, which is called Palmer's Land ; and the Russian navigator, Bellings- 
 hausen, discovered Alexander's Land, S. W. of Palmer's Land. All these 
 lands are south and west of the South Shetland islands. In 1823, Weddell 
 tried to find land east of the meridian of these islands. He did not find 
 land, but he succeeded in advancing as far as 74 15' S. latitude, where he 
 found a sea clear of ice. 
 
 On the 12th February, 1832, Captain Biscoe, in the Tula, was coming 
 from the westward, in latitude 66 27' S., longitude 81 50' W., many birds 
 were seen, (albatrosses, penguins, cape-pigeons, &c.) with several humped 
 and finned-back whales ; and no fewer than two hundred and fifty ice- 
 islands were counted from the deck. On the 15th, land was seen, bearing 
 E. S. E., but at a great distance, the latitude being then 67 1' S., longitude 
 71 48' W., and sail was made to close it. On the following morning it 
 was ascertained to be an island, and called Adelaide island, in honour of her 
 Majesty ; and, in the course of the ensuing fortnight, it was further made 
 out to be the westernmost of a chain of islands, lying E. N. E. and W. S. W., 
 and fronting a high continuous land, since called Graham's Land, which 
 Captain Biscoe believes to be of great extent. The range of islands has 
 been also since called Biscoe's range.* 
 
 * It is probable tbat the coast winch Biscoe saw was that which had been seen in 1599, by 
 Dirk Gerritz, a Dutchman. His vessel, which belonged to a Dutch fleet, commanded by James 
 Mahu, on leaving the Straits of Magalhaens for the Pacific, had been separated from the other 
 veSsels, and carried by winds and currents as far south as 64, where he found a lofty coast, 
 which Gerritz compared with that of Norway. He was unable, however, to determine the po- 
 sition of this newly-discovered coast. 
 
 F P
 
 226 
 
 " ADELAIDE ISLAND has a most imposing and beautiful appearance, with 
 one high peak shooting up into the clouds, and occasionally appearing both 
 above and below them ; and a lower range of mountain, extending about 
 four miles from north to south, having only a thin covering of snow on 
 their summits, but towards their base, buried in a field of snow and ice of 
 the most dazzling brightness, which slopes down to the water, and termi- 
 nates in a cliff of 10 or 12 feet high, riven and splintered in every direction, 
 to an extent of two or three hundred yards from its edge. At a distance of 
 three miles, no bottom could be found with 250 fathoms of line, and round 
 all the islands the depth of water was considerable. One, called Pitt's island, 
 in latitude 66 20' S., longitude 66 38' "W., has many bays, and forms, with 
 the main land behind, a good harbour for shelter, but the bottom is rocky. 
 No living animal was found on any of these islands, and not many birds, 
 although only a few miles to the northward they were very numerous." 
 
 " On the 21st February, Captain Biscoe succeeded in landing on what he 
 calls the main land, and took formal possession of it, the highest mountain 
 in view being called Mount William, after his Majesty, and the next Mount 
 Moberly, in honour of Captain Moberly, R. N. The place was in a deep 
 bay, ' in which the water was so still, that could any seals have been found, 
 the vessels could have been easily loaded, as they might have been laid 
 alongside the rocks for the purpose. The depth of water was also consi- 
 derable, no bottom being found with 20 fathoms of line almost close to the 
 beach ; and the sun was so warm, that the snow was melted off all the rocks 
 along the water-line, which made it more extraordinary that they should 
 be so utterly deserted. The latitude of Mount William was determined to 
 be 64 45' S., longitude 63 51' W. Captain Biscoe, after this, repaired 
 to the South Shetland islands, where he was driven ashore, lost his rudder, 
 and very narrowly escaped shipwreck." Journal of the Royal Geographical 
 Society of London. Vol. 3, page 110. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. All the northern part of the coasts of South 
 Shetland abounds with islets, rocks, and breakers, while the southern coasts 
 are entirely clear of these dangers ; but in the early part of the spring, the 
 southern sides are blocked with ice, which comes from the land to the south 
 of, and opposite to it. When you come up as far as the south beaches, you 
 again meet with rocks and breakers. 
 
 The best harbour is formed by DECEPTION ISLAND, which island, or shell 
 of an island, is certainly one of the most singular productions of nature. 
 The land is high, and bold on every side, with a narrow opening, of about 
 a cable's length, on its S. E. side, leading to a very capacious basin. The 
 isle is a volcanic production ; its shores on either side are bold, and pumice- 
 btone, with other substances, indicate its origin. There are also several hot 
 springs, some of which are of a temperature sufficient to boil an egg. The 
 basin is 5 or 6 miles across. At its mouth you will have 3, 4, and 7 
 fathoms of water, and increase very rapidly as you enter ; from 7 fathoms 
 you increase to 10, then 18, 27, 32 ; and then, a little within this, you will 
 get no bottom at 60 fathoms. On the N. W. side of the basin there is a 
 very fine cove, capable of containing several vessels, in about 4 or 5 fathoms 
 of water, and a bottom of good clay. From the entrance of the basin up 
 to the cove the course is NT W. by W. 
 
 BRIDGMAN'S ISLAND. Near the centre of the Shetland group is Bridg- 
 man's island, in latitude 62 4' S., longitude 57 0' W., apparently another 
 volcanic production. The figure of the island is nearly round ; it is very 
 small, but 400 feet in height, partaking of the form of a sugar-loaf. Captain 
 Weddell, on passing within 200 yards of it, observed smoke issuing through 
 the fisures of the rock, and apparently with much force.
 
 227 
 
 TIDES. On the north coast of South Shetland the tides are very irre- 
 gular, being sometimes high water for 24 hours together ; at others, it flows 
 tide and half-tide, and remains for about 3 or 4 hours high water, and then 
 ebbs again, though there is, in general, one flood and one ebb every 24 
 hours. Gales of wind raise the tide sometimes much above its natural level, 
 which may account, in some measure, for many skeletons of whales which 
 lie in many places 1 2 or 1 4 feet, at least, above high water mark, and many 
 yards from the sea-shore. In Blythe bay (Desolation island) an easterly 
 gale will raise the water considerably above its common height ; and the 
 brig Lady Troubridge, of Liverpool, that drove on shore on Christmas-day, 
 1820, was found, in the next season, forced up nearly high and dry. Near 
 the mouths of the straits the tides run very strong, and in various direc- 
 tions, which renders the navigation, in light winds, both unpleasant and 
 unsafe. The flood-tide on the coast sets to the eastward. 
 
 In a S. W. gale, the tide runs directly to windward, a full league from 
 the coast, at the rate of two or three knots ; and, vice versa, to the eastward 
 again, when the brig Williams, and the ship Indian were at once blown 
 out of Blythe bay, with a gale of wind from the eastward. The Indian 
 drove 10 leagues to the westward, and the Williams, though lying-to, 
 drove up 7 leagues to the eastward, and dead to windward two-thirds of 
 the way, which evidently shewed, that the two vessels had received the 
 impulse of two contrary streams. 
 
 From the observations which have been made, it is conjectured that the 
 flood and ebb, in moderate weather, runs backward and forward in the 
 oifing, as far as two leagues from the outer points of the land, taking the 
 sweep of the bays ; but, be it understood, that it sometimes runs much 
 longer both ways, and likewise stronger than it does at others. Its distance 
 from the coast also varies outside these limits ; the current has been found 
 to run, at least a knot, in the same direction as the wind blows. 
 
 From the above remarks, it clearly shows, that it is not easy to give any 
 satisfactory account of the tides, so as to reduce them to any thing like a 
 regular theory. One circumstance, however, may be worthy of notice ; 
 fragments of the wrecks of the Cora and Clothier were all invariably 
 drifted to the westward. Cape Shirreff and the north beaches were scat- 
 tered all over with them, and not one single particle was ever found to the 
 eastward. The Cora's were easily identified, being either cedar or maho- 
 gany. On the south side of the land, it is pretty generally admitted, that 
 the motion of the water is, on the contrary, toward the eastward, and 
 carrying with it vast quantities of ice, in the direction of the coast, toward 
 Sandwich Land. 
 
 WINDS. " Nearly all the misfortunes that have happened in South 
 Shetland have been in gales of wind from the eastward, which frequently 
 prevail here, and blow with tremendous fury, generally accompanied with 
 heavy falls of snow. No less than seven vessels have been lost, and all 
 with easterly gales, excepting the Clothier, an American, which struck on 
 a sunken rock. In the years 1820, 21, and 22, four-fifths of the gales 
 were from the eastward, though we had all looked for harbours sheltered 
 from the westward, under the impression that we should have most to fear 
 from that quarter. 
 
 " In fine weather, the winds from the S. W. and N. E. are about equal, 
 not keeping long in either quarter. Indeed, with very few exceptions, the 
 winds are always along the land, which renders this coast far less dangerous, 
 when under sail, than it would otherwise be. The south-westers here, 
 much like the north-westers at home, are attended with a fine clear sky, 
 and generally sweep away all the fog and sleet of the light north-westers.
 
 228 
 
 In two seasons, I recollect only one gale from the N. W., which was very 
 heavy. I was then in Blythe bay, and it was perfectly smooth, though 
 the sea outside was, in a manner, overwhelming. 
 
 " It would appear, if a parallel may be drawn from these two seasons, 
 that gales of wind on the land are very unfrequent. I have noticed that 
 the wind on the land is generally light, with thick dirty weather ; how- 
 ever, the gales of wind, after the middle of February, begin to increase in 
 strength, and it is then not worth any one's while to stop longer on the 
 coast. Were I bound round Cape Horn, and to meet with adverse winds, 
 I would not keep hugging the wind, and going about with every slant, but 
 check the topsail yards in, and keep my reach to the southward, when 
 I should be sure to be not long without an easterly wind, with which 
 I could soon get sufficient westing, (the degrees of longitude being so short) 
 and such an offing from the western part of Terra del Fuego, as to make 
 for me a S. "W. wind a fair one. The danger of falling in with ice is al- 
 most chimerical, there being no low drift ice on the north side of Shetland ; 
 and in two seasons, I only saw three ice islands." Captain Robert Fildes, 
 of Liverpool. 
 
 ON APPROACHING SOUTH SHETLAND PROM THE NORTHWARD, Livingston's, 
 
 or the main island, will appear in mountains of a vast height, and covered 
 entirely with snow, the base of them terminating in perpendicular ice-cliffs. 
 On this side of the group, in latitude 62 20' S., and longitude 59 45' W., 
 is a small isle, named Table island, which is by far the most remarkable 
 hereabout, and will always be an infallible mark for any one approaching, 
 as it is not possible to mistake it for any other land. All strangers, there- 
 fore, should make this their landfall, particularly in the early part of the 
 season, for then the land is not so easily made out, it having a great quan- 
 tity of snow upon it, which may at times deceive those best acquainted. 
 Its top appears as level as a bowling-green, and its sides resemble a wall. 
 In the upper part of the N. E. end of it is a chink or division, which from 
 some situations may be seen. 
 
 SECTION VIII. 
 COAST OF BRAZIL. 
 
 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. It is usual for ships bound from England to 
 South America, or Brazil, to shape their course so as to give Cape Finisterre 
 a berth of about 40 leagues, and, passing the Coast of Portugal, steer toward 
 the island of Porto Santo, or Madeira, making a large allowance for the 
 current setting eastward, toward the Strait of Gibraltar, and south-east- 
 ward, toward the shore of Morocco, and still more southerly, toward the 
 coast eastward of the Canary islands. 
 
 After passing to the westward of Madeira, the track most advisable is 
 to the westward of the Canary and Cape Verd islands, at any discretional 
 distance, or barely in sight of them. By adopting this course, you will not 
 only avoid the light winds and calms, which frequently prevail among these 
 islands, as well as several dangers in their vicinity, but may reasonably ex- 
 pect a steadier breeze ; although there are instances of ships, after passing 
 in sight of the Canaries to the westward, having the wind from that quarter, 
 which obliged them to pass to the eastward of the Cape Verd islands. 
 
 During the winter months, those who are not desirous of stopping in 
 Funchal road, should endeavour to pass to the westward of Madeira ; also,
 
 229 
 
 at any convenient distance, exceeding 6 or 7 leagues, because strong 
 westerly gales prevail in November, December, and January, which pro- 
 duce severe squalls and eddy winds, near the island, on the east side. 
 
 Having passed to the westward of the Canary and Cape Verd islands, 
 steer on southerly, and endeavour to cross the line in and from 20 to 23 
 W. longitude, but by no means further to the westward, lest the westerly 
 current, which sweeps round Cape St. Roque, should lead you into danger ; 
 and in approaching the coast of Brazil, considerable attention should be paid 
 to the season of the year, periodical winds prevailing from S. S. E. and S. E., 
 from March to September, the current then runs northerly; but from 
 September to March, the wind blows from the N. E. to E. N. E., the 
 current sets to the northward. Mariners, therefore, should endeavour to 
 make the land to the windward of the port they intend to touch at ; and, 
 according to these periodical winds, which commonly govern the current, 
 when the sun is in the northern hemisphere, the winds on the Brazil coast 
 will incline more from the south-eastward, than in the opposite season, 
 when the sun is to the southward of the equator, for then they prevail to the 
 eastward. It also appears, that in any season of the year, if the coast be not 
 made to the northward of Cape St. Augustine, there will be no difficulty in 
 getting on to the southward ; for ships which have made the land in lati- 
 tude 7 and 8, even in the unfavourable season, by making a few tacks, 
 always readily proceeded to the southward, and experienced little or no 
 northerly current ; nevertheless, in a bad sailing ship, it would be highly 
 imprudent to make it to the northward of Cape St. Augustine, especially 
 between the months of March and October, and certainly it should never 
 be made to the northward of Cape Ledo, or near Cape St. Roque, on ac- 
 count of the S. E. winds, and W. N. W. currents, before-mentioned, which 
 might fatally sweep you round to the northward of the cape. 
 
 Every navigator should, therefore, be attentive to the time of the year 
 he makes the Brazil coast, there being a kind of monsoon or trade-wind 
 blowing from the N. E. and E. N. E., with a current setting south, from 
 the month of September to March ; while, from March to August, the 
 winds are from the S. E., E. S. E., and S. S. E., the current then setting 
 north : according, therefore, to these seasons, he should run into a higher 
 or lower latitude than the port he is bound to. From Cape St. Roque to 
 Cape St. Augustine, the land may be approached by soundings, of moderate 
 depth, and gradually lessening as you approach the shore. A strong 
 southerly current commences from Cape St. Augustine, about the middle 
 of October, and continues until January. No particular current succeeds 
 till the month of April, when, generally about the middle of that month, a 
 strong one sets in northerly until July, when it again subsides until October; 
 and near the shore, the wind, for nine months in the year, generally blows 
 north-easterly in the morning, and north-westerly during the night, con- 
 tinuing, gradually changing along the coast, until, at Rio Janeiro and the 
 Rio de la Plata, it becomes a regular land-breeze from evening to morning, 
 and throughout the day the reverse. From the end of February till the 
 month of May, the wind is mostly from the south, blowing strong and' 
 stormy, with frequent squalls from the S. W. 
 
 THE NORTHERN COAST. CAPE ST. ROQUE is a head-land, lying 
 in latitude 5 28' 17" S., and in longitude 35 17' W., 27 miles to the S.S.E. 
 of Point Toiro, or Calcanhar, the N. E. point of Brazil. Northward of 
 Cape St. Roque, the coast gradually falls, or declines in height, to the dis- 
 tance of 8 miles, wlu>n it forms the low point Petetinga ; here the shore on 
 the north forms a low bay. The point is not more remarkable than Cape 
 St. Roque, and is to be ascertained at a distance, by the difference of lati-
 
 230 
 
 tude only. The extremity of Point Petetinga is given by Baron Roussin 
 in latitude 5 21' 35" S., and longitude 35 19' 23" W. Point Toiro, or 
 Calcanhar, in latitude 5 8' 20" S., and longitude 35 30' 33" W., is situate 
 at the distance of 6 leagues, N. N. W. 1 W. (N. W. by N.) from Point 
 Petetinga. From Cape St. Roque to Point Toiro, the shore is bordered by 
 the Recife, or that remarkable ridge of coral rock, which characterises the 
 coast in general. The more elevated part of this reef, within the present 
 extent, is called Pedras de Garca, about 8 miles to the northward of Point 
 Petetinga, and near which there is good anchorage. 
 
 BANKS OP ST. ROQUE. These banks commence at Cape St. Roque, in 
 the south, and terminate beyond Point Tuberao, or Tuberon, in the N. "W., 
 an extent of 34 leagues. The northern edge lies in latitude 4 51' S. ; the 
 longitude of the N. E. part is 35 25' W., and of the western part 36 30' 
 W. Between the shore and the banks there is a channel, which is known 
 and used by the coasters ; there are also passages between the dangerous 
 spots on the banks, but they should never be attempted by strangers. The 
 shallowest parts of the bank are distinguished generally by breakers ; of 
 these the easternmost is a little to the west, distant about 4 leagues from 
 Point Toiro, but its breakers are seldom seen. The second lies to the west, 
 off a point called Tres Irmaos, or the Three Brothers ; this is called Lavan- 
 deira, and occupies a great extent from east to west. The third, or western- 
 most, is a group of rocks, called the Ureas, in longitude 36 18' W. The 
 breakers on the Lavandeira and Ureas are very heavy at all times, but 
 particularly when the wind blows from the offing towards shore. The 
 Bank or Paracel of St. Roque, with 6 or 7 fathoms, terminates at about 
 6 leagues west from the Ureas. On approaching to the edge of the bank, 
 soundings of light sand will be found, with an admixture of broken coral, 
 and a sudden discolouration of the water from a blue to a green colour. 
 Hereabout the tide rises from 6 to 8 feet. From the outer edge of the 
 bank, the coast, although low, may generally be seen, in clear weather, at 
 from 10 to 12 miles off. 
 
 Beyond Point Toiro the coast, extending W. N. W., is generally low, 
 having few distinguishing objects. To the south-eastward of Ciara there 
 are, however, many inland hills, and the coast is bordered with a remark- 
 able ridge or reef of coral rocks. This reef, with frequent breaks, continues 
 along shore 19 leagues to the north-westward of Ciara; and within this 
 extent the land is moderately high, but it declines thence westward, and 
 presents a low shore, with sand-downs, some of which are very little above 
 the surface of the sea. The soundings are mostly regular, and decrease 
 gradually toward the shore, from a distance of 4 or 5 leagues. 
 
 POINT DO MEL, in latitude 4 55' S., and longitude 36 59' W., is a 
 broad headland, bordered with the recife, and dividing two spacious bays 
 on the east and west. The extreme points of these are Point Tuberao, at 
 10 leagues to the E. S. E., and the Morro Tibao, or Little Reteiro, at 6 
 leagues to the W. N. W. The bank of soundings here extends to 4 or 5 
 leagues from shore. 
 
 ANGERSTEIN REEF. In the month of December, 1830, the brig Anger- 
 stein, John Bouch, master, passed through a cluster of rocks, thirteen in 
 number, and from 2 to 3 fathoms under water. The vessel ran close along- 
 side of one, which was quite visible under the water, and the master, 
 heaving the lead on it, had not more than 11 feet of water. Mr. Bouch 
 describes the rocks as of a dark brown colour, showing themselves suffi- 
 ciently for a vessel to pass clear of them ; and before a second cast can be 
 got, you may be in 10 fathoms of water. " They lie in a triangular form, 
 about 11 miles from the land, with Point do Mel S. S. E. ^ E., and the Red
 
 231 
 
 Mount on the Reteiro W. N. W. | "W., about 8 leagues, ; with the given 
 bearings and distance from land, the latitude must be 4 44', or 4 45' S., 
 and longitude 37 6' W. Like the Ureas, at 15 leagues to the eastward of 
 them, they seem to lie on the edge of the flats, where there is a depth of 6 
 fathoms, corally ground." 
 
 ARACATI. The first port of the Northern Coast of Brazil is that of 
 Aracati, on the river Jaguaripe, a place of rising consequence. The mouth 
 of the river is in latitude 4 23' 30" S., and longitude 37 49' TV. At the 
 entrance is a narrow and dangerous bar, owing to sand-banks on each, and 
 upon these the surf is very violent. The sand is so loose at the mouth of 
 the river, that, even with the coasting-vessels of the country, every pre- 
 caution is required. Within the bar the river widens immediately, and 
 forms rather a spacious basin. 
 
 Mr. Richard Dixon, commander of the Westmoreland, of Liverpool, says, 
 "As vessels frequently engage at Pernambuco, on the eastern coast, to load 
 a cargo, or part of a cargo, at Aracati, they consequently proceed, in the 
 first instance, to the N. N. E., and then N., until they have passed Cape 
 St. Roque, and the parallel of the extensive flats on the north coast, bearing 
 the same name. The latitude of the Ureas, the most dangerous reef on 
 these flats, is 4 50' S., in the longitude of 36 18', or thereabout. On ap- 
 proaching near enough to the shore, Point do Mel will be seen, composed 
 of red cliffs, and low white spots of sand on each side of them. This point 
 must be avoided, for when it bore about S. S. E., at the distance of seven 
 miles, we were on a shallow bank of 17 feet, and further to the leeward 
 the water appeared white, and, without doubt, was shallower. Running 
 along shore north-westward, and keeping in about 6 fathoms, Point Reteiro 
 Pequeno, formerly called Cape Corso, w r ill be seen, and also a mountain, 
 appearing blue in the interior ; the former appears red, being a large bank 
 of red sand, and the latter resembles Bardsey island, in the St. George's 
 Channel. When these two objects are in one, the Reteiro Grande, or Al- 
 geberana head, will be distinctly seen. The land to the south-eastward of 
 this head, for 3 or 4 miles, has a very singular appearance, forming like 
 two steps, the lower part being reddish, and the other grey. The head 
 itself is rugged, and has a pinnacle close to its base, which, when bearing 
 W. by S., will appear open. 
 
 " At the distance of about a mile there are several rocks, of which the 
 outermost is covered at high- water; it is necessary, therefore, to give this 
 head a good berth, until a large lump, or hill, situated on the S. W. side 
 of Reteiro bay is brought to bear S. W. ; then steer toward the hill, until 
 Reteiro head bears E. S. E. With these bearings there is safe anchorage 
 in 3 fathoms of water ; or if the vessel's draught will admit, you may go 
 farther in and, have smoother water, as the rocks off the head break off 
 much of the sea. The distance from this place to Aracati is about 21 
 miles, and a great part of the way is along the sea-shore. The course 
 from this anchorage to the bar of Jaguaripe is about N. W. | N., the 
 distance 20 miles. 
 
 " The land in the vicinity of the bar is very barren ; on the north side 
 of the entrance is a high red bluff, and also two rocks close to the water's 
 edge ; one of these has the appearance of a large gun mounted, with a 
 small fort and flagstaff, and some huts close to it. These objects, together 
 with the spit of sand on the S. E. side, the breakers across the mouth of 
 the river, and the smoothness of the water within them, are good marks 
 by which the entrance may be readily known. 
 
 " In proceeding towards the bar, a low spit of sand will be observed, 
 which forms the S. E. side of the entrance of the river, and a ridge of
 
 232 
 
 heavy breakers, parallel to the shore for 2 or 3 miles, without any appear- 
 ance of a passage. We approached them in our boat, and, perceiving a 
 buoy, we soon got within the breakers, where we ascertained that this was 
 not the channel used by the pilots, although there were 6 feet water in it 
 at low water. The best channel is further to the N. W. ; for, besides 
 having 3 feet at low water, it affords an easier passage out, as it lies in a 
 N. E. and S. W. direction ; whereas the former lies nearly E. N. E. and 
 W. S. W., and is very narrow. 
 
 " Both of these channels are liable to shift, and therefore every master 
 ought to make himself acquainted with the state of the bar before he 
 attempts to enter. Buoys or boats may be readily placed in the channel, 
 or perches may be fixed on the spits or on shore. He should also know 
 the time of high-water, and take the bar half an hour earlier. After pas- 
 sing the boat or buoy, that should be moored in the deepest water be- 
 tween the breakers, it will be necessary to haul up S. S. E. or South, to 
 clear a bank on the west side that nearly dries at low water. (On this 
 bank, as well as on that to the north-eastward of it, perches ought to 
 be fixed.) So soon as this bank is cleared, the depth will increase, and a 
 westerly course must be taken, in order to pass between the high sandy 
 beach on the starboard, and a low bank that dries at two hours ebb, on 
 the larboard hand. This channel, not a furlong in width, is by the pilots 
 generally called the Funnel; and there are usually 10 or 12 perches along 
 the edge of the low bank. Having passed this narrow channel, it is pro- 
 per to haul to the southward, to get under the sandy point on the south 
 side of the river, into smooth water. In advancing towards CfNetfs Bank, 
 which must be approached with caution, keep the lead going, and tack 
 in good time, in order to get close to the weather shore. The channel be- 
 tween this bank and the shore is deep and narrow, but after passing it, 
 there is good anchorage in 3^ or 4 fathoms, where vessels generally an- 
 chor, when waiting for a wind or tide to go out. 
 
 " A vessel, whose draught of water does not exceed 10 feet, (and it would 
 be imprudent to be much deeper for passing the bar) may sail up, at two 
 hours' flood, to Cook's anchorage, where vessels generally load ; and by 
 waiting for more of flood, she may go 2| miles still further up, and take in 
 a cargo safely. 
 
 " Sailing out of this port is more dangerous than coming in, as the wind 
 is only favourable for passing the bar during three hours in the morning, 
 and even then it cannot be depended upon. Should it fail, or head in the 
 least, the vessel would be in imminent danger, as a heavy sea is always 
 running on the bar, and the channel is so narrow, that anchoring would be 
 useless. "When a vessel has been conducted through the Funnel, and as 
 far down as the lowest perch, and being on the starboard tack, as much 
 canvas should be set as she can carry, in order to give her good way over 
 the shallowest part, and through the breakers. 
 
 " No vessel should attempt to go out, if it has been blowing hard the 
 day before, as a heavy sea will then be on the bar, and probably the breeze 
 not regular. 
 
 " According to the pilots and inhabitants of the place, the channels often 
 shift. The banks being composed of quicksands, the river, when swollen 
 with rains, forces its way through them in various directions, and some- 
 times forms new channels, so that there is no certainty of their being long 
 in one position. It is also affirmed, that the channel is seldom deep enough 
 till after the river has been raised by continued rains, and that, in the 
 dry season, vessels may be detained for months, for want of sufficient 
 water."
 
 233 
 
 The old hydrographer, Pimental, gives the following description of the 
 coast between POINT TOIRO and ARACATI, viz. " Off Ponto das Pedras 
 (Point Irmaos of the modern charts) there are three shoals of rocks, having 
 a channel between them and the main, of 3 and 4, fathoms ; at 3 leagues 
 outward are reefs above water (the Lavandeira on the chart.) Of the 
 river Guamara (Aguamarea) to the S. W. the distinguishing marks are 
 two inland sugar-loaf mountains, of unequal heights. To the west is Point 
 Tubarao, then follow the rivers Amargosa, Cavallos, and Conchas. The 
 coast hence trends N. "W. to the Ponto do Mel, or Honey point, which may 
 be known by its high red cliffs. At the river Upanema (Mossocro on the 
 chart) the land is very level ; and on the west of the river there are, as far 
 as a field-piece can carry, red cliffs. Within the land is Monte Vermelhos, 
 (Mount Tibao) a sugar-loaf hill. Ships, however, should not advance into 
 the bay, as it is full of shallows. 
 
 " From the river Upanema, to the N. "W., the next river of any conse- 
 quence is Jaguaripe, which may be known by a round bare hill of sand, on 
 the N. W., terminating in a rock below, and within land a mountain, 
 having seven sugar-loaf points. Five leagues inland from the Jaguaripe 
 rises the range of the Gumame mountains, which extend to 1 leagues east 
 and west, commencing at about 3 leagues from the river Jaguaripe ; the 
 land for nearly 4 leagues, close to the sea, appears dark and full, with seve- 
 ral openings close to the bays. At about half a league from the commence- 
 ment of these openings are some white cliffs, in shape like a schooner, with 
 all sails set, and head at east. So soon as this full land terminates, the 
 coast assumes a more flat and level appearance." 
 
 From the mouth of the Jaguaripe to Point Macoripe, on the east of 
 Ciara, the coast trends N. W. true, and the distance is 20 leagues. The 
 Bay of Iguape, as described by Pimental, is about 5 leagues to the south- 
 eastward of Ciara, which now appears to have a village on it, forms a small 
 harbour to the westward of some low level land. The bay is surrounded 
 by some very steep cliffs, against which the sea breaks violently ; here is 
 a high and round rock, behind which is good sheltered anchorage, in 2, 2^, 
 and 3 fathoms ; and to the N. W. of it, you may anchor in the roll of the 
 sea, having 4, 5, and 6 fathoms ; there are also several pits made on the 
 sand, where water may be obtained with ease and in plenty. 
 
 CIARA. The bay, on which this town stands, is formed by Point Ma- 
 coripe to the eastward, and by the river Papina to the westward, an extent 
 of about 3 leagues. It is extremely open, its greatest depth being 3 miles. 
 Before the town, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, extends a 
 ridge of rocks, within which small craft generally anchor, the entrance to 
 the anchorage being round the eastern end of the reef. Point Macoripe has 
 a battery and tower near the extremity, and is itself a high and irregular 
 sand-hill, terminating in a point. The recife, or reef, forms a complete 
 ridge, at a considerable distance from the shore, and it is to be seen at low 
 water. It extends parallel with the shore for about one quarter of a mile, 
 with two openings, one above, and the other below the town ; a small 
 vessel may come to an anchor between it and the shore, but a ship can 
 bring up only in one of the openings of the ridge, or on the outside of it. 
 A vessel coming in from the northward should make Point Macoripe, which 
 is 2| miles to the eastward of the town, with a small fort on it, and may 
 thence bring up in G or 5 fathoms. On the appearance of a ship, the town 
 fort displays a white flag upon a flagstaff. 
 
 To the northward of Ciara, about a mile from shore, is the Pedra da 
 Velha, or Old Woman's rock, known even at high water by the breakers 
 over it; within this, at half the distance, is another, called Lobvendo, and 
 
 G G
 
 234- 
 
 next, that portion of the recife or reef, within which and the beach small 
 vessels may anchor. Eastward of the latter are three other rocky patches, 
 of which the last is three-quarters of a mile to the west of Point Macoripe ; 
 and between this and the point is anchorage under the latter, in 5 fathoms. 
 
 The inner anchorage, above-mentioned, is between the recife, or reef, and 
 the shore. You enter by the eastern channel, and go out by the western, 
 when you cannot fetch out by the eastern one. Here a vessel lies, at low 
 water, surrounded by breakers, except in the channels, and, as the pilots 
 are very inattentive, it is altogether very dangerous. 
 
 Baron Roussin says, " Ciara anchorage cannot be considered as a har- 
 bour, being exposed to all winds between N. W. and E., which are frequent 
 hereabout; but the ground is excellent for holding, from three miles off the 
 land to the reef, which includes the inner roadstead. In the outer road- 
 stead, at from one to three miles from land, are from 6 to 10 fathoms of 
 water, bottom of soft sand-stone, covered with sandy ooze, and in which 
 the anchor holds well. The coasters enter the inner road by two passes, 
 formed in the reef, at 200 fathoms asunder, the depth in these passes is 
 about 13 feet at high water. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CIARA, BY CAPTAIN THE HON. W. WELLESLEY, R. N. 
 (Nautical Magazine for 1833, page 440.^ " CIARA cannot be called a 
 port, nor in any but a tropical climate would it be thought a secure road- 
 stead. I believe it to be perfectly safe, particularly from December to 
 May ; and we have the precedent of several large ships, namely, the 
 American frigate Constitution, during the war, and soon after, the Incon- 
 stant and Isis, English frigates, having laid there with impunity. 
 
 " When bound for Ciara, run down in the latitude of Point Macoripe, to 
 which give a good berth, until the castle bears S. W., then run down direct 
 for it, until Macoripe bears E. S. E. ; do not go any further in, until a pilot 
 comes off, which will be in a catamaran. There are four high mountains, 
 about 5 leagues to the S. W. of the town, which may be seen when 9 and 10 
 leagues in the offing, by which the port of Ciara is easily distinguished. 
 
 " Point Macoripe is a sandy bluff, terminating abruptly enough at the 
 sea. If you know your longitude nearly, it cannot well be mistaken, and 
 the land on this part of the coast is tolerably high. Running in towards it, 
 you will discover a reef breaking off, and inside of it, a good berth will 
 open the town, and see the steeple, &c. 
 
 "From 11 and 10 fathoms (standing in for the town) you will shoal 
 your water to 7 and 6, when you may anchor or heave-to, and wait for 
 the pilot, should he be coming off. If there are any merchant-vessels 
 lading, they will be well to the westward, protected in a small degree by 
 a reef of rocks. 
 
 " The landing is very difficult and uncertain. It can only be effected 
 from half-tide to half-tide, and then by the help of the town's people, who, 
 with their negroes, are in attendance, to carry you out of the boat in a 
 chair. This is owing to a reef of rocks (round either end of which is the 
 boat-passage in) that lies in a direction parallel with the beach, and about 
 300 yards from it : these begin to appear at half-ebb, and then make a 
 kind of break-water until half-flood, when the water dashing over them, 
 creates a surf, in which it is impossible for a boat to live. The pilotage 
 charged for the Sapphire was eight Spanish dollars. 
 
 " From this place I steered a N. W. ^ W. and N. "VV. course, along the 
 land, at not more than 4 miles distance, in from 13 to 11 fathoms, until 
 I came to the village of Curu, a distance of about 30 miles ; when I got 
 abreast of it, the decrease of soundings to 9 and 7 fathoms warned me to 
 haul off. There is a heavy breaking shoal running off the point on which
 
 235 
 
 the village stands ; and in case any one not knowing his longitude should 
 make it, it may not be amiss to state, that we saw catamarans, with their 
 sails hoisted to dry on the beach, which had exactly the appearance of 
 large boats sailing upon a river, until the regularity of their distance, and 
 a nearer approach dispelled the illusion. Hauling out for Ouru, the water 
 did not deepen for a considerable time. I made Guru to be in latitude 
 3 28' S., longitude 39 0' TV." 
 
 From Point Macoripe the coast trends N. 56 W., true, to Mount Mel- 
 ancia, a distance of nearly 19 leagues. This mount, so called, is an insulated 
 sand-hill, near the coast ; all this coast is sterile and desert in the part 
 next the sea, and shews no trace of culture nor inhabitants. The coast is 
 clean, and at two or three miles from it are found from 6 to 13 fathoms of 
 water, with fine grey sand. From Mount Melancia the coast trends N. 
 64- TV., true, 11 leagues, to the village of Almufedas, then N. 69 W., 5 
 leagues, to Point Topagi. The village of Almufedas, standing within the 
 sand-down on the shore, is situated on the border of a small river, Aracati 
 Miram, navigable by coasters. From the offing its steeple may be seen 
 among a group of cocoa-trees. This village serves to indicate the com- 
 mencement of a bank, which extends thence nearly to the little hamlet of 
 Jericoacoara, situate about 40 miles more to the westward. 
 
 REMARKS. Captain Wellesley says, " If the land be fallen in with so far 
 to the eastward as Ciara, it will be higher than any to the westward, and 
 the magnificent mountains, some leagues inland, (the only fine feature on 
 the northern coast of Brazil) will be seen. Point Macoripe, which forms 
 the entrance of Ciara, may be known by its being a sandy bluff", terminating 
 rather suddenly. But, upon whatever part you advance, it is just clearly 
 discerned off the deck, that is, if your object be to make a free passage. 
 
 " If you come upon it towards the evening, and have run sufficiently 
 near to make it out, as has just been said, N. W. by TV. ^ TV. will not be 
 more than a safe course to haul off on for the night ; or you may stand off 
 to 22 fathoms, in about 2 S, and in to 17 fathoms. It is seldom, under 
 any circumstances, that vessels find themselves further off the land than 
 they expected in the morning. 
 
 "I was in less water than 10 fathoms the whole of the first night I was 
 on the coast, but I would not willingly go so near again, being sensible not 
 so much of the danger, as of the inutility of such a close approach." 
 
 Off Mount Melancia a bank commences, which extends all the way to 
 the river Iguarassu, an extent of 45 leagues. This bank, which is called 
 Praal de Caracu, extends outward about 85 leagues from the shore, and is 
 circumscribed by the depth of 6 fathoms ; upon the bank, off Almufedas, 
 there are 4| fathoms, distant 5 miles from the shore, and at 9 miles north 
 from Point Tapaji are 6 fathoms. From the edge of the bank, in 7 fathoms, 
 the water gradually shoalens to half a fathom near shore. Those ap- 
 proaching may therefore advance safely, by keeping the hand-lead going. 
 Large vessels, proceeding westward, should keep off at 12 miles from the 
 land, the coast being so low, that at a safe distance the tops of cocoa-trees 
 only can be seen, and in the finest weather. When westward of Jericoa- 
 coara, the draught of the vessel, and soundings, will determine the distance 
 to which it may be proper to approach the bight. 
 
 JERICOACOARA. Between Point Tapaji and the Point of Jericoacoara, the 
 coast trends nearly east and west, a distance of 27 miles. Jericoacoara is 
 a cove formed, by the broken ridge of rocks which borders the coast, into 
 a small basin, between them and the shore. The waves frequently beat 
 high on the reef, and break over it into the basin. By digging pits on the 
 beach hereabout, potable water may be obtained. Spring-tides, in the
 
 236 
 
 basin, rise from 10 to 12 feet. The coast to the westward is a low shore 
 of white sand, having without it the ridge or border of rock, before- 
 mentioned. Hence follow, the mouths of the little rivers Camusin, Tapuya, 
 Temonha, &c. The first of these is the only one navigable for coasters of 
 any draught. 
 
 PERNAIBAO, OR PARANAHYBA. That part of the coast of the 
 province of Piauhy, extending from the Barra de Iguarassu, the eastern- 
 most branch of the Rio de Pernaibao, to the Barra de Tutoya, its 
 westernmost, has generally been laid down incorrectly in the charts. The 
 distance between these two mouths is about 30 miles, in which extent the 
 Rio de Pernaibao discharges itself by four others, called the Barra Yelha, 
 Barra do Meio, Barra do Caju, and Barra das Canarias. The HARBOUR 
 of TUTOYA, on the west, is the only harbour, along the extensive line of 
 coast between Bahia and the Maranon, that admits of the bar being 
 crossed at all times of the moon, by vessels drawing from 14 to 15 feet 
 water. 
 
 The BAR of IGUARASSU and the BARRA VELHA, the two easternmost 
 passages, have become unnavigable for ships ; and in consequence of the 
 formation of two sand-banks immediately to leeward of them, vessels must 
 proceed to Tutoya, for which branch of the river a pilot may be obtained. 
 The rock called Pedra do Sol, between the Barra Velha and Barra do Meia, 
 as exhibited on our chart, Admiral Roussin says, " that it is not a danger 
 really to be dreaded, being only a break of the reef on the coast, and does 
 not extend more than a mile along shore." It is advisable not to approach 
 the coast of the mouths of the Pernaibao nearer than to 4 or 5 miles, 
 and not further in than to a depth of 8 fathoms ; the sea is muddy, 
 and the bottom of oozy sand before these passages ; the ground is there- 
 fore bad for anchoring. At 4 or 5 miles from land, 8 or 10 fathoms may 
 be found. 
 
 To the westward of the port of Tutoya the coast is not so high, but ex- 
 hibits sand-hills of a shining white colour, without any verdure ; these are 
 called the Lancoes Peqttenos, or Little Sheets, and occupy an extent of coast 
 terminated by the river Perguicas, near which are some breakers. 
 
 THE RIVER PERGUICAS separates Lancoes Pequenos from the 
 Lancoes Grandes. A long spit, extending from this river, is formed by the 
 tide of the river meeting the current of the sea. The Sapphire, Captain 
 Wellesley, crossed this bank by night in 5 fathoms, but in 7 fathoms a 
 ship will be quite close enough. If the coast be made from the northward, 
 about the Perguicas and Lancoes Pequenos, soundings will be struck in 1 9 
 or 20 fathoms, and soon after in 13 ; and from thence regular bottom will 
 be found in 10 or 11 fathoms, until the vessel is close enough to haul oft', 
 and steer along the land. In keeping 8 or 10 miles from this part of the 
 coast, you will be at sufficient distance to avoid all danger, and thus you 
 will have from 7 to 14 fathoms. To the west of the river Perguicas, the 
 coast trends N. 65 "W. to N. 80 W. It resembles that which precedes it 
 to the east. Its downs are of shifting sand, moderately high, and extending 
 nearly 12 leagues. They resemble, in appearance, linen cloths, or extended 
 sheets, and have received the name of Lancoes Grandes, or Great Sheets, in 
 contradistinction to a range to the eastward, named Lancoes Pequenos, 
 already noticed. This appearance is remarkable, and useful as a landfall 
 to those coming in from sea, when bound to Maranham, &c. 
 
 To the westward of the Lancoes Grandes, the coast appears as if wholly 
 covered with bushes and groves, so closely set, that at the distance of 4 
 miles the ground between them is not to be seen. The shore is low, and 
 is called the Praya das Mangues Verdes, or Beach of Mangroves. The
 
 237 
 
 sudden transition of colour here, from that of Lancoes, renders it impossible 
 to mistake this part of the coast. 
 
 BANK OFF THE COAST OF PARA. In the "Annales Maritimes" for 1 838, 
 it appears, by a notice, that a French ship grounded on a bank off the 
 coast of Para, the position of which, according to the account given, 
 we can only suppose to be in latitude 2 18' S., longitude 43 7' W. of 
 Greenwich. The following is the notice alluded to, which is an extract 
 from a letter of Mr. Charles Leraistre, commander of the ship Emily, of 
 Nantes : " When passing the Lancoes Grandes, and N. by E. of the most, 
 remarkable sand-hill, 7 or 8 miles from the land, in 7 to 9 fathoms, at 
 half-past twelve, p. *., the Emily got into shoal water, upon a bank of 
 2^ fathoms, which appeared to be of small extent, around which I found 
 7 fathoms. The vessel was going two knots at the time, and at noon was 
 in 2 20' 2" S. latitude. 
 
 " This bank is very dangerous, because it is situated in the route that 
 a large vessel would take, and at a distance from the land that would re- 
 move all apprehension of danger. It was low water when I touched, or 
 thereabouts, and from aloft only one green patch of trifling extent was to 
 be seen resembling others on those shores. Two of the shocks were rather 
 violent, but not sufficiently so to produce great danger. The vessel made 
 no water, nor do I consider the false keel was damaged." 
 
 ISLAND OF SANTA ANNA. This island is equally covered with 
 mangroves and other trees ; on advancing, you will see the breakers which 
 lie aboxit, and to the eastward of it, of which the easternmost are 8 miles 
 from the N. E. point of the island. Near these shoals are from 7 to 24 
 fathoms of water, bottom of sand. The Coroa Grande, a vast flat of rocks 
 and sand nearly even with the water, lie to the west of St. Anna's island, 
 and extend about 5 leagues to the northward of Maranham island. 
 
 LIGHT-HOUSE ON SANTA ANNA ISLAND. This light-house is a square tower, 
 having three distinct towers, each story diminishing as it rises. The angles 
 bear north and south, and east and west. Its height is about 90 feet above 
 high water, spring-tides. In the day-time it has the appearance of a ves- 
 sel under sail, at a considerable distance : by night it shows a revolving 
 light, visible every 30 seconds, for about 10 seconds together ; at a shorter 
 distance the lights show as a permanent light, like a bright star, with a 
 brighter light every 30 seconds. Between the continent and Maranham 
 island is the inlet of Bahia de St. Joze ; it is too shoal and dangerous, 
 even for small vessels, for a passage to the port of Maranham ; the bay of 
 St. Marcos, to the westward of Coroa Grande, is therefore the general 
 entrance. The tide sets with great strength into the Bahia de St. Joze. 
 The flood from E. S. E., the ebb from W. Ni W. High water at about 
 6 h. p. m. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR THE NAVIGATION FROM CIARA TO MARANHAM. From 
 Ciara the coast trends N. W. by W., 35 leagues, to Point Tapaji, and thence 
 west, 10 leagues, to Jericoacoara ; but a N. W. course should be pursued, 
 in order to avoid the shoal parts of the bank of Caracu. Having run about 
 34 leagues upon the N. "W. course, allowing about 1| mile per hour for the 
 current's assistance, in soundings varying from 11 to 20 fathoms, alter the 
 course to W. ^ N., and it will give you a sight of the land, as far as the 
 island of St. Anna. Vessels coming from sea and bound to Maranham, 
 should always endeavour to make the land considerably to the eastward, 
 most particularly on account of the currents which prevail on the coast, 
 always running strongly between W. ^ S. and W. N.*W. If in endea- 
 vouring to make the land, they should be in latitude about 3 S. ; on dis- 
 covering it they will be off Mount Melancia, or between it and Ciara ; or
 
 238 
 
 should they discover three mountains, lying nearly S. E. and N. W. of 
 each other, these will show them to be still nearer to Ciara, for these 
 mountains are only 7 leagues distant from Ciara ; about this part of the 
 coast you will have a bottom of fine sand and shells, but if they should 
 make the land in from latitude 2 15' S. to 2 30' S., and have a bottom 
 of small red and white stones, or broken pieces of coral, they will be oft' 
 Jericoacoara ; if the bottom consists of blue, red, and yellow stones, they 
 will be off Paranahyba or Temonia, and three mountains in the neighbour- 
 hood of the latter will be seen. 
 
 The whole coast from point Macoripe to Paranahyba is sandy to about 
 half a league inland, so that it is equally distinguishable from the coast 
 between Paranahyba and Green Mangues (mangroves) point, which con- 
 sists of nothing but sand, without the least sign of vegetation. Inclining 
 to the shore, and observing the lancoes or sand-banks well as they proceed 
 along, the entrance of the river Perguicas will easily be distinguished, and 
 when that opening bears S.S.E., the water will begin to lessen in depth, and 
 the hillocks on shore become somewhat larger and more irregular ; being in 
 8 or 9 fathoms they will cross the spit or bar of sand, thrown out from, and 
 accumulated at the mouth of the river, the stream of ebb from which turns 
 the current somewhat to the N. "W. here. Should night be approaching, 
 haul up, and stand off and on till morning, in from 24 to 12 fathoms ; it is 
 advisable to pass the Perguicas before this be done, that with the dawn of 
 the ensuing day they may pursue the same course, keeping the same dis- 
 tance from shore ; for, by bearing up, under all the sail they can, they may 
 have sufficient daylight before them to reach their destination. 
 
 Having passed the Lancoes Grandes, they will easily distinguish Green 
 Mangues point, by the brushwood and re-appearance of vegetation ; and 
 when this point comes about S. by W., let them look out for the island of 
 Santa Anna.* Bring it to bear S. S. W., and having so done, haul oft" 
 N. W. by W., until they get into about 2 S., or a little to the southward 
 
 * Captain Livingstone, in 1824, says, " A dangerous shoal exists at about 10 or 1 1 miles to 
 the eastward of St. Anna's island. Many vessels have narrowly escaped it. We got into 
 3 fathoms, with St. Anna bearing W. by N. The bottom was of fine sand, in ridges, with 
 even 10 fathoms between ; but I have no doubt that there are also coral rocks, from the manner 
 in which the sea broke, at a little to the westward of us. About the same time, a French brig 
 in company, the Ccesar, of Marseilles, struck and unshipped her rudder, at about a mile and a 
 half to the N.E. of us, though her master assured me they had never found less than 6 fathoms. 
 We had one cast of only two fathoms, but did not touch ; so the lead must either have Lit the 
 top of a coral rock, or else a knob of sand. 
 
 " The Island of Santa Anna shows quite level in the direction we made it, and I think 
 cannot be less than 12 miles long, in place of two or three, as commonly laid down. I have 
 spoken with many who concur with me in this opinion and one who has been on k, states 
 it as 12 miles long, and 3 or 4 broad. From the appearance of the island,* and the depths 
 of water, both the French captain and myself thought we were on the Coroa Grande, or Grand 
 Crown, to the westward ; and, as night was rapidly coming on, we both anchored. we in 19 
 fathoms, and he, at half a mile west of us, in 25 fathoms. 
 
 "THE C^SAB SHOAL (so called by me, from the French brig above-mentioned) lies about 
 two miles South, and as much East, of the place we anchored at, the evening after we were in 
 such shallow water on it. The position of this spot I ascertained as follows : Latitude, by mean 
 of meridian altitudes of the stars, Fomalhaut, Canopus, and Achemar, 2 10 7 13" S. ; longitude, 
 by five sights of distances, of and # Aldebaran, west of ij 43 2JX 15". By five sights of dis- 
 tances of O and d, the sun east of the moon, 43 29' 0". The accordance of these results 
 may be considered as confirming their accuracy, and they corroborate those of Captain Hewett. 
 
 " The shoal I consider very dangerous, and think it extends three miles and a half, East 
 and West, and three, North and South ; but there is, at least, one other at a short distance 
 south of it. It is to be observed, that the Csesar shoal lies in the very track formerly 
 pointed out in the Sailing Directions for making Santa Anna." 
 
 * At this time, it is to be recollected, that the light-house was not erected. EDIT.
 
 239 
 
 of 2, then stand on due west, and they lose sight of the island of St. Anna. 
 At about S. S. E. they will be abreast of the Coroa Grande, then, keeping 
 a look-out from the mast-head to the southward, should breakers be seen, 
 or your depth become less than 18 fathoms, haul out half a point, but no 
 more. By their N. W. by W. course, the distance to be run should be 13 
 miles ; then, on the westerly course, 1 1 miles, allowing a mile an hour for 
 the current, when they may proceed W. S. W., until they perceive Mount 
 Itacolumi ahead, and the coast of Tepitapera to the larboard ; and so soon 
 as they see Itacolumi mount, which resembles a gunner's quoin, endeavour 
 to bring to bear W. N. W., and, according to judgment, about 4 leagues 
 distant ;* then proceed, with the lead going, 4 leagues, when they will 
 have St. Mark's point bearing south, at about 85 miles distance. From 
 the light-house, on St. Anna's, Mount Itacolumi bears W. f N., nearly 15 
 leagues. 
 
 Baron Roussin says, " that the breakers of the Coroa Grande, with those 
 of the island of St. Anna, may sometimes, in clear weather, be seen from 
 the mast-head at 3 leagues off, and from the deck of a corvette or sloop, at 
 half this distance. They are divided into several groups, and always show, 
 although the tide rises 12 feet. The only difference in their appearance is 
 produced by the state of the tide, or the greater or less elevation of the 
 waves." The northernmost point of the breakers on the Coroa Grande 
 is given, by the Baron, as in latitude 2 10' 50" S., longitude 43 57' 32" W. 
 On approaching the Coroa Grande from the north, when the sky is not 
 clear, you may distinguish the coast of Maranham island from that of St. 
 Anna, by its being higher, its masses woody, and a bold white shore on 
 the north. 
 
 MARANHAM. This island is about 10 leagues in length, and 5 leagues 
 in breadth ; and between it and the coast, on the west, is the bay of San 
 Marcos, navigable in the greatest part of its extent for large vessels ; and 
 frigates may anchor before the HARBOUR op ST. Luiz, situate on the 
 western coast of Maranham. The principal entrance of the bay lies 
 N. N. E. and S. S. W., and being limited on each side by dangerous shoals, 
 must be approached with caution. In this entrance, between the Coroa 
 Grande on the east, and the continent on the west, is the Middle Bank, 
 about 3| miles long, N. N. E. and S. S. W., having over it from 6 to 2| 
 fathoms. Its western side is steep, and should be approached with caution. 
 On the eastern side the soundings are more gradual, but the channel on 
 this side is now much narrower than formerly. The Middle bank, latterly, 
 has been described as connected with the Coroa Grande, being divided 
 only by a swash between, of 7 to 9 fathoms. It is not the one by which 
 vessels generally enter, the western one being the superior and ordinary 
 channel. 
 
 ST. Luiz. This city is situate on the western coast of Maranham island, 
 and extends nearly 1^ mile in an E. N. E. direction. It comprises some 
 small streets and squares, but is too much sheltered from the sea-breeze, 
 with which it would be more salubrious. It is the capital of the province 
 of Maranham, and is the seat of government, and of the bishop. The 
 HARBOUR OP ST. Luiz is formed by a creek in the island, and is to be en- 
 tered from the bay of San Marcos, or St. Mark. The channel is of suffi- 
 cient depth for common sized merchant-ships, but is very narrow, and not 
 
 * Alcantra point will then bear S. W. % S., when they may anchor, if necessary. 'The chan- 
 nel here is wide, and the bottom sandy ; in many part's the water will appear muddy, while 
 in other parts it is transparent and clear ; and at all times a kind of chesnut fruit will be seen 
 floating about, which, in rainy seasons, drifts much further to seaward.
 
 240 
 
 to be entered without a pilot. Opposite to the town, the water is shallow 
 at the ebb. Vessels may find at Maranham the chief resources required 
 by the exigencies of navigation. The safety of the port permits careening; 
 the water is good and abundant, and on the island beef and rice are easily 
 procured ; but, if in want of considerable quantities, they may be most ad- 
 vantageously obtained on the Alcantra or continental coast, because this is, 
 in every respect, more fertile than the island, and more abundant in cattle, 
 fruits, &c. 
 
 The TIDES are regular at St. Luiz, and in the bay of San Marcos. At 
 the anchorage before the harbour of St. Luiz, the flood sets to the S. S. W, 
 and the ebb N. N. E. The velocity is one mile and seven-tenths an hour, 
 in ordinary tides ; spring-tides, two miles and a half. In the last case, the 
 difference of level between high and low water is 16^ feet, according to 
 observations, made 36 hours after the full moon of January, 1820, near 
 Fort St. Antonio. In ordinary tides, the vertical rise of water is not more 
 than 10 feet. High water in the harbour, on the full and change, at 7 h. 
 
 SAILING DIRECTIONS. Vessels arriving from Europe or the W est Indies, 
 make the coast to the eastward.* The only exception is with winds, at 
 times, between the north and the west ; at all other times they can see the 
 Lancoes Grandes. This shore of white sand may be seen to commence 
 about 20 leagues E. by S. from the isle of St. Anna, and extends, as before- 
 mentioned, to the green or verdant land about Mangues, or Mangrove 
 point, under the meridian of 43 28' "VV. Off the coast, at 4 or 5 miles 
 from the Lancoes Grandes, are from 5 to 6 fathoms of water ; but, by an 
 error of longitude, very likely to occur hereabout, they may easily mistake 
 the Lancoes Pequenos for the Lancoes Grandes ; but observe that, when off 
 the latter, they will have the shoal grounds of the river Perguicas to the 
 east, in place of being to the west, while off the former. To guard against 
 all uncertainty in this respect, they must hold off to 10 or 12 miles from 
 the coast, and continue their course from 6 to 10 fathoms, when they will 
 be between the parallels of 2 15' and 2 30' S., on a mean direction of 
 W. N. W., which is that of the coast. 
 
 Having arrived at the meridian of 43 12', and at 7 or 8 miles from 
 shore, they must shape a course northward, in order to avoid the St. Anna's 
 breakers, which exist as before described. In this traverse, the tide will 
 require attention, and a due allowance must be made for it, according to 
 its direction and strength. The flood, on this part of the coast, sets to the 
 S. W., and the ebb to the N. E., sometimes with a velocity of two miles 
 in an hour. When passed the breakers, to the north of the isle of St. Anna, 
 which may be known by the light-house, continue to steer to the west 
 several degrees north, until you come in sight of the breakers of the Coroa 
 Grande, which may be approached to the distance of two miles. Having 
 passed within sight of these breakers, they will find soundings of fine sand, 
 with black and red specks. 
 
 * Vessels making for the S. W., when approaching the equator, must particularly observe, 
 that near the longitude of 41 lies a dangerous reef, the existence of which cannot be doubted, 
 though the exact longitude is not known. On the 15th of October, 1819, the brig Richard, of 
 Ulverstone, Captain Blaesdale, struck on this reef, as will appear from the following abstract 
 of the Richard's log : " Friday, 15th October, 1819 ; fine moderate weather, ship going three 
 knots. At 6 p. m. grounded ; did not remain fast above 10 minutes ; water smooth, saw no 
 breakers. In a few minutes after, sounded, but got no bottom, with 125 fathoms of line, 
 latitude, at noon, by good observation, 0' 57" N. Run west, until 6 p. m., longitude 41 32' W. 
 The vessel drew 11 feet of water; in one hour there were 18 inches of water in the well. 
 When the ship arrived at Para, whither she was bound, three holes were found, each about the 
 size of a man's hat, and nearly through her bottom, and several large pieces of white coral 
 were sticking in different parts."
 
 241 
 
 San Marcos, or St. Mark's point, is the first point of Maranham, which 
 will be seen to the southward. It is a high bluff point, and on it is a guard- 
 house and signal-staff; from it a broad shelf extends to the S. W. of the 
 point, with flats of rock and sand, to more than 4-00 fathoms from the 
 shore, which must therefore be approached with caution. On continuing 
 the route to the S. "W. and S. "W. by S., they will make the parallel of the 
 Point das Areas, which is the north point of the entrance of the harbour of 
 St. Luiz. On it is the little fort called San Antonio de la Barra. This 
 point should not be approached nearer than half a mile, at which distance 
 are 6 and 7 fathoms, where they may anchor. 
 
 The best and most frequented route to St: Luiz is taken by gaining a 
 sight of Mount Itacolumi, before-mentioned, situated upon the western 
 coast of the bay of San Marcos, nearly on the parallel of the north part of 
 Coroa Grande. On approaching this mount it appears in the shape of a 
 gunner's quoin, and is remarkable only from the low land in its vicinity. 
 From the lighthouse on St. Anna's island, it bears W. | N., nearly 15 
 leagues. When this mount is descried, shape a course to bring it to bear 
 W. N. W., and, according to judgment, about 4 leagues distant ; thence 
 proceed, with the lead going, S. by W., 4 leagues, when you will have St. 
 Mark's point bearing south, at about 85 miles distant. On approaching 
 this point, a sand-bank, dry in many parts, will be seen at about two miles 
 N. N. E. of it ; the Banca de Cerca, or Acuas bank, to the westward, 
 will also be seen breaking in many parts. Between these is the channel to 
 ST. Luiz ROADS. On passing San Marcos point, the rock will be seen 
 to the westward of it ; but by giving them a sufficient berth, and bringing 
 the body of the Isle do Medo to bear S. "VV., and the fort on Ponto das 
 Areias S. E., they may anchor in 15 fathoms, sand and mud. On the foul 
 ground, off San Marcos point, many anchors have been lost. 
 
 The best anchorage before the mouth of the harbour is nearly a mile 
 from Fort St. Antonio, or Ponto das Areias, with the fort bearing S. E. 
 by E. f E. In this position there are from 30 to 45 feet of water at 
 low ebbs. Small vessels go higher up toward the bank of the Isle do Medo. 
 The anchorage before St. Luiz is bounded on the S. and S. W. by the 
 Ponta da Guia, Isle do Medo, and several shoals, on which there is little water 
 at low tides. Besides the passage on the N. E. of the bank, leading to the 
 anchorage, there is another on the S. W., between it and the Isle do Medo, 
 but the latter is taken only with winds between north and south by the 
 west. The entrance of the harbour of St. Luiz is not difficult for small 
 vessels, but those of greater draught must have a pilot. Vessels, whose 
 draught will not allow them to anchor in St. Luiz, may anchor in the little 
 bay of Artaki, S. W. of Maranham, having a bottom of mud or ooze, with 
 15 or 16 fathoms of water, the current less rapid than before St. Luiz, and 
 the sea always smooth. 
 
 REMARKS ON THE PASSAGE TO MARANHAM, by Copt, the Hon. W. 
 Wellesley. " The best part of the coast for vessels to make is the Lancoes 
 Grandes, or Great Sheets, because the whiteness of those sand-hills is so re- 
 markable, and extend so far. They commence in about 42 45' W., and 
 terminate in 42 12' "W. Run boldly for the centre or western extremity, 
 and you will probably at the same time make the green country, about the 
 Mangues point, with the light-house on Santa Anna's island, &c. 
 
 " In proceeding for Maranham, it is supposed that the land is made in 
 the morning, about the Lancoes Grandes, you will be running down to near 
 the land, probably on a W. by S. course. Having seen it clearly, haul off 
 to W. N. W., and having arrived at their termination, you will run about 
 10 or 15 miles along a coast nearly quite green, the " Mangues Verdes;" 
 
 H H
 
 242 
 
 from the mast-head, St. Anna's light-house will be in sight, as you run along, 
 bearing perhaps about S. W. by W. It will be seen before the island on 
 which it stands, and makes like a vessel under sail ; you are not sure of 
 making the island itself, until Mangues Verdes point bears S. by W., and 
 it is essential to bear in mind that the light is not on the northern extrem- 
 ity. The dangerous shoals which run in a N. E. direction off it will now 
 be made out, and if you think the flood is setting you in, haul off in time 
 to N. W. by W. 
 
 " The tide sets remarkably strong into the bay of San Joze. The first 
 time I ran along the coast, it set me inside the reefs, and obliged me to an- 
 chor in 5 fathoms ; and I was compelled to stand out on a N. E. course to 
 get clear of them. The breakers, however, always show themselves. They 
 should be rounded in not less than 14 fathoms. 
 
 " Having brought these dangerous shoals abaft beam, a W. ^ N. course 
 may be steered with safety, until the Coroa Grande breakers are passed. 
 Lieut. Hewett recommends a N. W. by W. course, but I steered W. ^ N. 
 on the flood, in perfect safety, making the two breakers ; and steering the 
 same course upon the ebb I was obliged to keep away W. S. W. to make 
 them. 
 
 " The Coroa Grande shoals always break ; and I think it better to make 
 them, because you get a fresh departure, which is advantageous if night be 
 coming on, and you wish to anchor. If you do not wish to make them, 
 W. N. W. may be steered for 15 or 20 miles, and then west, until Itaco- 
 lumi is seen ahead. The mountain is the highest land on the coast, and 
 makes at first like a small round island ; almost immediately afterwards the 
 adjacent land appears, and then it takes something of the shape of the 
 quoin of a gun. I think 15 miles the very utmost distance at which this 
 land can be seen, and it is likely you will not be more than 10 or 12 miles 
 off when it is reported from the mast-head. The less water you have the 
 closer you will be to it. 
 
 " If in approaching you should have as little as 9 fathoms, or less, haul 
 off to the south, and gradually keep away again to the S. S. W. when you 
 deepen the water, which course will take you up to St. Mark's fort. If 
 on making it there should be a depth of 14 fathoms, S. S. W. may be 
 steered at once. In running up this course, bear in mind that the flood 
 sets towards Alcantara, and over the Cerca bank, and the ebb, on the con- 
 trary, will check you over to the middle bank, and towards the edge of the 
 Coroa Grande. 
 
 " Look out now for St. Mark's point ahead ; it ought to bear from S. by 
 W. \ W. to S. W. by S., and if you are in the centre of the channel you 
 will hardly get soundings with the hand-lead ; if you have as little as 9 or 
 10, you will be on the edge of the middle bank, and, as a precaution, should 
 keep half a point or a point more to the westward ; 14 fathoms is a very 
 good depth to run up in all the way. I have had no soundings until the 
 anchor was let go off Fort St. Antonio, in that depth. 
 
 " The land about St. Mark's, when first seen, makes like two small 
 islands, the easternmost one having two sand-hills upon it, which look like 
 two roads. The round fort and flagstaff soon appear, for which keep the 
 ship's head, and Fort St. Antonio will be seen like a long low red house, 
 a little to the westward of St. Mark's. "When you are within a mile of 
 this latter fort, run along the land, until you bring it to bear N. E. by E., 
 and Fort St. Antonio E. S. E., there drop your anchor in from 10 to 14 
 fathoms. 
 
 " When near the anchorage the only danger to be apprehended in a 
 large ship is from the Banca de Cerca, which lies about a league off shore,
 
 243 
 
 and the northern point of which Ties about west from St. Mark's ; unless 
 there be a very strong tide running, or the ship is beating up, you do 
 not come near this ; if you should, however, the soundings decrease very 
 gradually, and indicate its vicinity. 
 
 " In beating out the pilot took the Sapphire over its north end in 5 
 fathoms ; and at low water there may be over its centre as little as 16 feet ; 
 but of this I am not positive. It lies somewhere about north and south, 
 and one of the marks for clearing it, is, not to shut in with Point Ataki 
 the two small islands which lie off it. 
 
 " It seldom happens that vessels have to beat from Itacolumi to Maran- 
 ham, the wind being almost constantly to the eastward ; but they have to 
 beat out usually. One tide ought to bring the mount to bear from W. N. 
 W. to West, when the pilot leaves. 
 
 "They go about in from 9 to 12 fathoms on either side ; twice we were 
 off the Carnaveiros or Pirajuba banks, which were found to extend out 
 further than laid down. The Baron Roussin's soundings are correct, but 
 perhaps he gives a little too much water in certain places. His details of 
 the coast, such as the entrance to rivers, and other minutiae, are sometimes 
 erroneous ; but it must be recollected, that his was a survey made under 
 sail. The eastern channel has latterly grown up, and is now disused by all, 
 excepting small coasters. Having once sighted Itacolumi, it would be diffi- 
 cult to get a vessel into the eastern channel, so much more simple and direct 
 is the route by the western channel." Nautical Magazine for 1833, page 438. 
 
 REMARKS on the passage from England to Maranham, by Lieut. E. Stop- 
 ford, commanding H. M. Schooner, Pickle. " Vessels bound to. Maranham 
 may cross the equator in longitude 40 W., which will enable them to 
 fetch the Lancoes, a landfall deservedly recommended by Baron Roussin. 
 
 " It has been customary to make the lighthouse on the island of Santa 
 Anna, but an error in the longitude will be of less importance by making 
 the Lancoes Grandes. A vessel arriving off Santa Anna, and not having 
 sufficient daylight to find her way into the bay of St. Mark, may lay-to 
 for the night, off and on the lighthouse, keeping it as near south of her as 
 possible, distant 6 or 7 miles. The light is revolving, and can be seen dis- 
 tant about 15 miles. As there is constantly a heavy swell on the coast, 
 anchorage should be avoided if possible, as it is both difficult and danger- 
 ous to recover the anchor. 
 
 " From Santa Anna a vessel should steer W. ^ N., by doing which she 
 will pass the breakers of Coroa Grande, at the distance of about 3 miles, 
 and Mount Itacolumi will be discovered bearing about west. When dis- 
 tant about 10 or 1 1 miles from the mount, alter the course to S. ^ W. till the 
 fort and flagstaff of St. Mark's are made out nearly ahead. St. Mark's 
 point should not be passed at a greater distance than a mile and a half, 
 that the Cerca bank (on the starboard hand going in) may be avoided. A 
 reef of rocks runs off from the point, and to avoid these, it should not be 
 approached within three-quarters of a mile. Within these limits a vessel 
 may coast along, until fort Antonio bears East or E. by S., when she should 
 anchor, and wait for a pilot. A vessel by following the above route to 
 Maranham, will avoid getting entangled among the swashways, on the 
 Coroa Grande shoals, which are very dangerous. 
 
 " The inhabitants of Maranham, in consequence of their harbour filling up, 
 expect to be obliged to transfer their port of shipment to Alcantara. Lieut. 
 Stopford visited this port, and is of opinion, that it is preferable in every 
 respect to Maranham, being easier of access, capable of containing more 
 ships, and allowing them to get in or out at any time of tide, with the 
 prevailing winds. The depth of water is also greater. The Pickle was an-
 
 244 
 
 chored about one-third of a cable's length from the shore, in 7 fathoms, at 
 low water, being more than in any part of the harbour of Maranham, even 
 at high water." Nautical Magazine for 1832, page 509. 
 
 MARANHAM TO PARA. The coast from the bay of Maranham to 
 Para is generally low and sandy, but covered more or less with woods. It 
 has many little isles of the same description, with several coves and rivulets. 
 It is proper when a vessel is bound from Maranham to Para, to take her 
 departure in the morning, and advance to the anchorage off the Aracaji, or 
 cliff before described, thence stand out to sea to beyond the carnaverous 
 banks, which may be effected in a run of 8 leagues. Having passed these, 
 you approach the sand-bank stretching from the western shore, and over 
 which there are 6, 10, 7, 5, and 8 fathoms. Thus you may proceed to the 
 N. N. W. or N. W. by N., to the distance of 22 leagues, when the ground 
 of the bank, white sand, with black specks, will be succeeded by coarse 
 sand and stones, or brown sand and broken shells, with 13 to 17 and 20 
 fathoms of water. Here you will be off the island of St. Joao, and near the 
 parallel of 1 S. 
 
 ST. JOAO, OB ST. JOHN'S ISLAND stretches N. E. and S. W., 8^ miles. It 
 is nearly level with the sea, intersected with several creeks. Between the 
 N. E. end of this island and Point Turivazo to the W. N. W., the distance 
 is about 9 leagues. The bay between affords shelter, and vessels may 
 anchor off the N. W. side of St. Joao island, in from 10 to 5 fathoms, sandy 
 ground. The Hon. W. Wellesley says, " There is anchoring ground in 9 
 fathoms, westward of the island, with the shoal off it E. N. E. ^ E., the 
 west end S. ^ E. There is a better anchorage at about a mile off shore, with 
 the woody point not open of a river to the northward of it. Here the tide 
 runs very strongly N.E. and S. W. High water about 6 h. 24 m. p. m. 
 
 N. W. by W. ^ W. from Turivazo point is Cape Guarapi, distant 15 
 leagues, over which is a mountain, insulated, and therefore remarkable ; 
 the coast here, as in other parts, is, however, low, level, and sandy, cover- 
 ed with a dark brush-wood, and from the point a shoal with breakers ex- 
 tends three miles out to sea. From Cape Guarapi to the river Caita the 
 distance is 16 leagues, on a course nearly west; at the entrance of this 
 river are several low islets ; off the shore the bottom is generally flat, and 
 there is commonly 7 and 8 fathoms, at three leagues off, with clear ground. 
 From the river Caita to the inlet of Maracuno the distance, W. by N., 
 is 12 leagues. In sailing along it is advisable to keep two or three 
 leagues off shore, in soundings of 7 and 8 fathoms. The coast here is dis- 
 tinguished by a range or chain of white sand-hills, the highest of which, 
 Piranson hill, is about 3 leagues, westward of Caita point ; this hill appears 
 like a high bluff and perpendicular point close to the sea, with red cliffs 
 on its eastern side. At 5 5 leagues, W. by N. from Piranson hill, is Point 
 Atasia, and immediately west of the point is the inlet or bay of Maracuno, 
 having 5 or 6 fathoms. 
 
 Rio PARA. Point Tijioca, the eastern point of the mouth of the Para, 
 is 12 leagues west from Atasia point, and within it, to the S. W., is Point 
 Taipee, at the distance of 3 leagues. Here an extensive bank, called the 
 Baxo de Boronco, extends two leagues from shore ; between the two 
 points, and to the northward, are the Braganza bank and the Tijioca shoals 
 and breakers; the passage in is between these shoals, and has a depth of 
 14, 12, 11, and 15 fathoms, at about 12 miles from the southern shore, in 
 latitude 23' S. There is also a channel for small vessels at 6 miles from 
 shore, and along the edge of the Baxo de Boronco. The distance from 
 abreast of Point Tijioca to the anchorage at Para is full 20 leagues; all 
 the western side of the river is shoal, but on the eastern side are even
 
 245 
 
 soundings of 8, 7, 8, 9, 10, 7, 10, 12, 9, 7, and 6 fathoms : in the basin itself 
 are from 5 to 3 fathoms. 
 
 Coming from seaward, witli good observations, you may cross the equa- 
 tor on the meridian of 45, where soundings from 50 to 40 fathoms may be 
 found ; hence a "W. by S. course will lead towards Maracuno inlet, to the 
 eastward of which a pilot may be obtained. The soundings over the bank 
 decrease gradually from 40 to 15 fathoms. The flood sets into Rio Para 
 at the rate of four miles an hour; the beginning, from the eastward, is 
 very rapid, and it veers gradually to the N. E. and North. The vertical 
 rise is 10 feet. 
 
 Ships outward bound from Point Taipee should steer according to the 
 tide, keeping that point S. E., until distant from it 15 or 16 miles. Cape 
 Maory will then be in sight ; haul up N. E. or N. N. E., taking care to 
 avoid the shoals of St. Rosa. The winds are generally from the eastward, 
 and blow in squalls. The beginning of the flood sets from the eastward 
 very rapid, and veers gradually to the N. E. and North. In thick wea- 
 ther, when Cape Maory cannot be seen, you may discover your approach 
 to the banks of St. Rosa, by the soundings becoming irregular, which is 
 not the case to the eastward of the channel. Keep the weather shoals on 
 board as much as possible. 
 
 Whoever is bound to Maranham or Para should make the land in the 
 months from December to July, because high winds seldom prevail, and 
 the shores then appear clear and bright ; but from July to November a 
 constant fog envelopes the land, and the higher the tempests, the thicker 
 and more hazy the atmosphere appears. The winds most prevalent on 
 this coast are the N. E., E. N. E., and East, which are all fair for going in 
 or out of Maranham and Para. 
 
 REMARKS on the passage from Maranham to San Joao, Salinas, and Para, 
 by CAPTAIN THE HON. W. WELLESLEY. " On leaving Maranham, for 
 San Joao island, I steered N. and N. by W., until nearly on its parallel, 
 when, hauling in to the westward, I made the eastern part. The land 
 here may be known by a small white patch, of exactly the same colour as 
 the Lancoes Grandes. It is very remarkable, for the surrounding country 
 has verdure about it, and the sand is whiter, and has altogether a different 
 appearance. At these Lancoes is the narrow passage between San Joao 
 and the main. The eastern or north-eastern is pretty bold ; I approached 
 it to about 4 miles, and it being calm, and a strong tide running, I 
 anchored in 9| fathoms. 
 
 " Continuing along you lose sight of the Lancoes, and come to the 
 eastern point, which is low, sandy, and has a shoal off it which always 
 breaks. I rounded this in 10 fathoms ; on approaching it, over the sandy 
 ground, a green and woody point appears, which has a peculiar shape, from 
 the trees at its extremity being withered or stunted ; it seemed to me, at 
 first sight, as if a mist were coming over the land I am thus particular, 
 because the sight of this point, or rather the certainty of it, is requisite to 
 take up a good anchorage. It should not be brought to bear to the southward 
 of east ; and you should not open a river, the entrance of which is just to the 
 southward of it. But the best anchorage by far, is to round the breakers 
 in 10 fathoms, and anchor at about a mile from the shore, in not less than 
 8 fathoms, and tolerably close to them. 
 
 " I would here warn future navigators, who are making the coast, or 
 leaving Maranham for the coast to the westward, to choose 3 or 4 days 
 after the full or change of the moon for the time of starting, as the tide 
 runs so very strong. In the Sapphire it happened that we entered this 
 anchorage during their greatest strength, and upon the flood. Many of
 
 246 
 
 the shoals only shew upon the ebb. We were driven upon their edge, and 
 anchored in 7 fathoms, supposing ourselves in a safe position. When the 
 tide turned breakers were discovered within 20 yards of us; and it is 
 probable, had not the wind and tide favoured us, we might not have got 
 clear without difficulty. The tide was found running full 4 knots. 
 
 " Having been once at San Joao I should have no hesitation in taking 
 the ship in again ; but I would do it with the ebb tide, and, if possible, the 
 quartering of the moon. 
 
 " Fresh beef may be procured in abundance at the hut to the southward, 
 where dwells a Brazilian to take care of a quantity of cattle, the pro- 
 prietor of which lives on the main land. The best landing is just round 
 the south point. You may also land at Woody point and cut fuel ; but, if 
 you remain there during the flood, you will hardly pull through the en- 
 trance of the river, the tide runs in so violently. I did not see any fresh 
 water : that which divides the island into so many parts is brackish. 
 
 " From St. John's to Salinas the land is low. I steered N. W. by W. and N. 
 W., until I had passed Cape Gurassi, off which extends a shoal of 3 miles, or 
 as some say more. I am given to understand that this bay is not so deep 
 as laid down in the charts, and that vessels mostly anchor off the shoals. 
 There are generally a number of troops at Gurassi, and sometimes a Bra- 
 zilian man-of-war. Diamond mines are in the neighbourhood. 
 
 " From 13 to 15 fathoms is a good bottom to run along the coast in ; at 
 this depth you are always well off the land. Whenever I ran in with 
 the land the soundings were found to decrease very gradually to 12, 11, 
 and 10 fathoms. We had the wind at north, which enabled us to lie off 
 the land. 
 
 " Until I arrived at Mount Atasia, f Atalai point) the only points I 
 distinctly made out were Caiti, which is a long, low, green point, and 
 Mount Piranson, which may be known by the red cliffs about ; but you 
 must be pretty close in to make the red out clearly. The directions in an 
 old book say that Mount Atasia has a watch-tower upon it, with a gun, 
 which is sometimes fired, when a vessel is seen approaching. This is not 
 the case at present, whatever it might have been formerly. I have heard 
 there is an old unroofed building standing, but I could not see it at three 
 miles distance : this is essential to know, as, running down the coast 
 without a pilot, one naturally looks for what is said to be a guide for 
 Salinas. 
 
 "Mount Atasia is rather a high point, with reference to the land 
 around it, and there are two or three remarkable patches of land on it ; 
 and to the eastward, between it and Point Caiti, coming from seaward, 
 it makes very distinctly; the point and white patches cannot be mis- 
 taken. From the eastward its extremity makes like an island, and a 
 white patch and point, about 8 miles from it, might be mistaken for the 
 mount itself. I anchored off this patch in 10 fathoms. 
 
 " Running any distance at 5 or 6 miles from the shore, Salinas, the 
 pilots' station, is difficult to make.* As you open the land to the westward 
 
 * The pilot signals at the village of Salina, in 1832, were as follow : 
 
 1. A flag, hoisted on the flag-staff", is the day signal that a pilot may be obtained. 
 
 2. If the pilot should not, however, come off during the day, and at night there be shown 
 two lights, the pilot may be expected off the following morning. 
 
 3. If there be three lights shown the pilot has no boat, and must have one from the vessel 
 to bring him off"; in which case the vessel must bring the village of Salina to bear S. S. W., 
 in soundings of 5 or 6 fathoms of water, when POINT ATALAYA (improperly called ATASIA) 
 will be distant about 5 miles. You may hence dispatch a boat, well manned, which must keep 
 close in with the shore of Atalaya, clear of the surf, until it meets with an opening in the reef,
 
 247 
 
 of Atasia, looking carefully, a small white house will be discovered, with 
 a red streak behind it. The white house is the chapel, and the red 
 the tiled roofs of the cottages. It stands upon ground rather greener 
 than the surrounding country. I observed it to make better coming 
 more directly from the northward, the whole village presenting a larger 
 appearance. 
 
 " The best anchorage is with it bearing from S. by E. to S. E. by E., in 
 from 7 to 13 fathoms of water. In the Sapphire we anchored with it 
 bearing S. by W., (off a spit which runs off Atasia) in 7 fathoms ; but 
 the ground is foal at this anchorage.* In sending a boat ashore the best 
 passage in is between two breakers, a little to the westward of the village ; 
 opposite to it is a very heavy surf. 
 
 " From Salina a "W. N. W. course leads you clear out to Maranduba, 
 which is a sandy point. We kept away afterwards to W. by N. and then 
 to West, running in from 7 to 1 3 fathoms ; and, when Point Caraua (a 
 low green point, which came in sight when Maranduba was on our beam) 
 bore south, we saw the Braganza breakers. They always shew them- 
 selves, and you may run round them by your eye, in 9 or 10 fathoms. In 
 rounding them, we kept gradually away from W. by S. to S. W., and then 
 to S. W. ^ S. and S. W. by S., to run up the river. In running up Point 
 Taipee should be noticed, with a small islet off it, for it is from this point 
 that a departure is taken by the pilots on leaving the river. 
 
 " Bahia do Son and that of St. Antonio are the places preferred by the 
 pilots, for anchorages, going up or down. At other parts you are not so 
 safe, being very liable, owing to the foul bottom and ground swell, to lose 
 your anchor, or snap your cable. The same observation applies to the 
 coast in general. It is better, if there be sea-room, to stand off and on, 
 than to run any of these risks. Off Para it is better to anchor close to 
 the town ; the nearer you are the deeper the water. The tide runs very 
 strong ; but, the water being shoal, 30 fathoms on each chain is enough to 
 moor. The large mooring swivel supplied to Her Majesty's Ships is 
 recommended to be used. 
 
 " Fresh water is procured alongside, which is of a very good taste ; but, 
 being somewhat dirty, or rather muddy, it should be strained through 
 bunting, in running into the tanks. 
 
 " On leaving the river Para the western channel is, in this case, most 
 commonly used. Having brought Point Taipee to bear from S. by E. ^ E. 
 to S. S. E. the pilots steer north, which takes you out clear of all the 
 shoals. When you are clear pursue a north course, if possible, and you 
 need think no more of the coast ; but if the wind is foul, no immediate 
 danger need be apprehended at from N. N. W. to N. E. ; but, in this event, 
 it will be better to anchor, should the wind be light, and the flood-tide be run- 
 ning. On leaving Para you may expect a strong northerly current, until you 
 attain the meridian of Cape North. It set the Sapphire, for two days, at the 
 rate of a mile and a half an hour. Afterwards she experienced even a 
 
 which lines the coast in front of the village, through which it must pass. Inside the reef the 
 water is quite smooth, and you may land anywhere upon the beach. 
 
 4. The boat should be sent at half flood, in order that it may return the same tide. It is 
 high water here, on the full and change, at 7 o'clock, and off shore at 8. LIEUT. E. STOPFORD 
 
 * From this anchorage Salina bore, S. by W. f W. ; Macussani, W. S. W. ; Point Atasia, 
 nearly South. The best anchorage is with the pilots' station S. E., in from 9 to 13 fathoms, 
 and not less than 4 miles from shore.
 
 248 
 
 stronger westerly one, against which precautions should be taken, if a 
 course be steering for the West Indies." Nautical Magazine for 1833, 
 page 499. 
 
 Captain Courtenay, R. N., represents the bottom, along the whole line 
 of coast, as being composed of quick-sands, to which he attributes the 
 frequent loss of anchors by vessels. Lieut. Stopford is of a different 
 opinion, having frequently anchored on all parts of the coast, between 
 Maranham and Para. It is, however, indispensable that vessels should 
 ascertain the quality of the bottom, before anchoring, as it is foul in many 
 places. The Pickle lost her small bower, before Lieut. Stopford was 
 aware of this, by anchoring on rocky ground. Vessels should be careful 
 not to anchor off St. Mark's point, as the ground is foul, and many anchors 
 have been lost there. 
 
 REMARKS BY LIEUT. STOPFORD, of H. M. Schooner, Pickle, 1832. "A 
 vessel bound from Maranham to Para, during the rainy season, should get 
 to the northward of the equator, as soon as possible ; she will thus avoid 
 the light baffling winds and calms which prevail in this season, and also 
 the current, which sets from E. N. E. to S. E. about 2 or 3 miles per 
 hour, occasioned by the water from the various rivers and bays of 
 the coast. 
 
 " To the westward of the island of Salina there are some white cliffs, so 
 nearly resembling those to the eastward of that island that they have 
 frequently been mistaken for each other. Vessels, mistaking the western 
 cliffs for those east of Salinas, have stood on until they have been lost on the 
 Braganza shoal, or in that equally dangerous place, called the Well. Lieut. 
 Stopford has been informed that nearly all the losses that have occurred, 
 at the mouth of the Amazons, have arisen from this cause. The utmost 
 caution is therefore necessary to attend to the following directions for 
 anchoring at Salinas : bring the town of Salina to bear S. by E., and 
 anchor in 9 fathoms. The whole coast from Turivazo is woody, and the 
 white sand-hills are very remarkable. 
 
 " H. M. S. Pickle remained at anchor one night, in 7 fathoms, with the 
 town bearing S. by E., and had no difficulty in regaining her anchor in the 
 morning. Lieut. Stopford observes, that accidents frequently happened, 
 and lives have been lost, by boats going for the pilots being swamped in 
 the surf. They have frequently landed immediately under the town, which 
 is very wrong ; and Lieut. Stopford recommends them to pass to the west- 
 ward of the island, where boats may land in safety, and thereby avoid the 
 surf outside." 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR VESSELS BOUND TO THE RIVER PARA, BY CAPTAIN R. 
 THOMAS, of the brig Margaret Richardson, of Glasgow. " When bound to 
 Para, from the northward, vessels should cross the equator in 46 W., 
 then steer S. W. until they arrive in 28' of South latitude ; soundings 
 may then be found in 17 and 20 fathoms, fine sand, with small specks ; 
 steer a west course from thence, keeping the lead going, and do not ap- 
 proach the shore nearer than in 12 fathoms water; white sand-hills, to 
 the westward of the bay of Caita, will soon be seen, appearing from the 
 mast-head like breakers, at the foot of high mangrove trees. The land of 
 Caita must not be approached, for the water is very shallow, and the 
 soundings very irregular off this bay ; and the flood tide sets in to the 
 west. By steering a west course, and keeping a good look-out, Point 
 Atasia will soon be seen; it is the highest land on the coast from -Mount 
 Guarapi, with steep red cliffs at the end and to the westward of it. 
 
 " About two miles further to the westward is the village of Salinas. 
 The pilot-station is situated on a steep cliff, and the houses covered with
 
 249 
 
 red tiles. Near the middle of the village a church, with the steeple may 
 be seen. 
 
 " Abreast of this point, distant from it about two miles, is a bank of 
 hard sand and stones, with 4|, 5, and 6 fathoms water ; this bank extends 
 to the eastward as far as Caita, and the west end bears soutl^from Salinas.' 
 Within this bank is a channel with 9, 10 and 11 fathoms water, soft mud, 
 but, being so near the shore, I would not recommend it. 
 
 " After having reached Salinas, the pilot-station, should the weather be 
 fine, and light winds, I would advise anchoring with the village to bear 
 S. E., and not in less than 9 fathoms ; for should it come to blow, during 
 the night, which is often the case in the rainy season, and a vessel should 
 part her cable, she will have sufficient room to make sail, and stand to the 
 northward under easy sail, until morning ; and, by that means, will avoid 
 the reef which lies off the island of Praia Grande, the nearest island west 
 of Salinas. Should it be blowing strong on arriving off the pilot-station, 
 and past noon, I would recommend a vessel to lie off and on, under easy 
 sail, until next morning, for it would be too late to attempt to run for 
 the banks. 
 
 "In leaving Point Atasia, for Para river, I recommend making sail 
 early in the morning, steering W. by N. ^ N., keeping the lead going, 
 and being very cautious in steering and sounding, as the tides here run 
 very strong, and are very uncertain in their direction, owing to the many 
 small rivers and banks adjacent. A vessel should not come nearer the 
 shore than 10 or 11 fathoms, until she comes abreast of Maranduba, or 
 what some call False Salinas. It is the second island after passing the 
 village, with two white patches, or sand-hills, much resembling, in ap- 
 pearance, the sand-hills to the eastward, but smaller. 
 
 " These two sand-hills have been mistaken by strangers, and have 
 proved fatal to many valuable lives, for there is no landing in their 
 vicinity. It was off here that the brig Warrior, Captain Manse, in 1827, 
 unfortunately lost his mate and three men, by the swamping of the jolly- 
 boat, in attempting to reach the shore in search of a pilot. Having passed 
 these sand-hills, continue a course towards the Braganza banks, or breakers, 
 still keeping the lead going. 
 
 " From thence to the banks, while in the fairway, 13, 15, and 17 fathoms 
 will be found ; and when these sand-hills bear about S. E. by E., the 
 breakers will be seen from the mast-head, on the larboard bow. These 
 breakers must be left on the larboard hand, about half a mile distant. 
 The channel here, between the Braganza banks and Tigioca shoals, on 
 your starboard hand, is not two miles wide. Having reached the breakers, 
 which is the only guide for entering the river, a vessel may steer a little 
 more southerly, keeping the lead going, for she will then have 15 fathoms, 
 foul ground, in mid-channel ; having got well round these breakers steer a 
 S. W. ^ S. course up the river, keeping the larboard shore on board. 
 
 " The foregoing directions are the result of my experience in 17 voyages 
 that I have made to Para. I never once saw the tower on Point Atasia, 
 and the opinion that a gun is fired, when a vessel approaches it, is quite 
 erroneous." 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS ON LEAVING MARANHAM AND RETURNING TO 
 EUROPE. In leaving the port of Maranham, and proceeding northward, 
 a favourable wind is required ; and, care must be taken, in order to avoid 
 the dangerous shoal of Manoel Luiz, hereafter described. The combination 
 of tide and current, hereabout, renders it necessary to be very circumspect 
 when leaving the bay, or in sailing between it and the shoal of Manoel 
 Luiz, as the streams may be variable. In supposing the winds to the 
 
 i i
 
 250 
 
 East, N. E. to E. S. E., which are the most frequent, you must take the 
 starboard tack on quitting the roads, and then endeavour to steer so as to 
 make good the route of N. | W. 
 
 It is necessary to get under-way at the precise moment of high water, 
 so that the figst tack may carry you clear of the Cerca bank, an approch 
 to which may be known by a sudden change of depth, from 15 or 16 
 fathoms to 8, and even 5 fathoms, in the interval of time required for 
 heaving out and drawing in the lead. The Cerca bank is narrow, situate 
 in a N. E. and S. W. direction. When on the northern extremity, in 9 
 feet, at low water, the eastern side of the northern islet, Espera, appears 
 in a line with Point Ataki, and the point of St. Mark, S. 56 E. Beyond 
 this, the first tack, toward the west, may continue, according to the wind 
 and the tide, the ebb being still favourable. The latter sets to the North 
 and N. N. E. in all the extent of the bay ; and one ebb may suffice for 
 carrying the vessel out, provided it be taken, as before-mentioned, from 
 the moment of high water. Small vessels may approach the coast, on the 
 west, to the distance of 2 or 3 miles ; but it is not prudent for large vessels 
 to advance so near, or in less than 12 fathoms. 
 
 Having completed the tack, to the depths prescribed, and hauled to the 
 eastward, the depths will be found to increase, and probably the second 
 tack to the north will accomplish the passage outward ; but, should it be 
 otherwise, continue to tack while the ebb continues, never lessening the 
 depth under 12 fathoms, and taking every precaution not to approach too 
 near the middle bank, which is steep-to. The rapidity of the stream will 
 be found proportionate to the depths ; and the middle of the channel being 
 deeper than the sides, it is, consequently, in mid-channel that the tide is 
 most favourable. 
 
 Should the winds blow from the S. E. or S. W. quarters, at the moment 
 of departure, the most convenient route will be along the Maranham side 
 and the bank of the Coroa Grande ; but the channel to the eastward of the 
 middle bank requires caution. The leading mark, to clear the eastern 
 side of this bank, is the tower of San Marcos S. S. W. | W., until the 
 Morro, or Mount Itacolumi, bears N. W. by W. ^ W., when you will be 
 clear of its north end, and may proceed according to circumstances. The 
 pilot employed in conducting vessels outward is generally discharged at 
 2 or 3 leagues to the eastward of Mount Itacolumi. 
 
 SHOAL OP MANGEL Luiz. The only obstacle to be feared and avoided, 
 on the route to the northward, is this dangerous shoal, which lies in the 
 true direction of N. 8 E., nearly 26 leagues from Point Itacolumi. Baron 
 Roussin was the first that explored and ascertained its position, in 1820, 
 and found it to consist in several groups of conical rocks, even with the 
 water, situate in a sea rarely exposed to violent winds : this reef breaks 
 only in short intervals, and at low water. It is, therefore, almost impossi- 
 ble to see it, unless when passing very near. Nevertheless, several rocks 
 of the flat have over them not more than from 5 to 15 feet of water, with 8, 
 10, and 12 fathoms at their base. After two hours flood, and only at half 
 a mile off, with the sea smooth, no trace of them will be seen. This reef, 
 which lies 1' 30' east of St. Luiz, off Maranham, is more than half a 
 mile from north to south, and about three miles in an E. by S. and W. by N. 
 direction. Should a vessel strike upon it she would, most probably, go 
 down immediately.* 
 
 * On the 21st of May, 1814, the ship Venus, of Liverpool, unfortunately experienced this 
 misfortune, and disappeared in about 15 minutes : the utmost precaution therefore is necessary.
 
 251 
 
 By anchoring for 30 hours, near the edge of the shoal, Roussin found 
 that the tide set regularly 6' hours each day ; the flood to the S. W., and 
 the ebb to the N. E., nearly with the same strength six-tenths of a mile 
 an hour. High water, at full and change, at 5h. The rise and fall was 
 12 feet. 
 
 Captain G. Cheveley examined this shoal on the 8th of December, 
 1828, during a fine steady breeze, nearly east, and clear weather, and 
 says, " The appearance of the reef, on approaching, is only that of a heavy 
 sea or rollers, hardly breaking in calm weather, and consequently the 
 more dangerous. It is very steep, rugged, and composed chiefly of 
 detached coral rocks. The shoalest part appears to have about 6 feet 
 of water over it, the sea breaking as it were through gaps, or little chan- 
 nels, under water. The extent seemed to be about 1^ mile from east to 
 west, and from half to three-quarters of a mile north and south." 
 
 VIGIA. Baron Roussin says, that, in 1825, he was apprised of the 
 existence of a group of rocks, said to have been discovered by M. da Sylva, 
 an officer of the Brazilian Marine, and he enters largely into the question 
 whether these may not be those of Manoel Luiz. The position assigned 
 to the Vigia, of M. da Sylva, is 32', S. and 44 17' W., and it conse- 
 quently lies, according to this account, 7 leagues to the northward of that 
 of Manoel Luiz. 
 
 THE EASTERN COAST. Resuming our direction at Cape St. 
 Roque, we proceed to describe the eastern coast of Brazil towards Rio 
 Janeiro. CAPE ST. ROQUE, as before stated, is the N. E. extremity of 
 Brazil, and is readily distinguished by its red cliffs, from which it derives 
 its name. 
 
 The appearance of the eastern coast of Brazil, between Cape St. Roque 
 and the isle of St. Catherine, varies considerably. In the southern parallels, 
 from the isle of St. Catherine to nearly 60 leagues to the northward of 
 Cape Frio, the lands are very high and woody, and, in clear weather, may 
 be seen 18 leagues off. On coming in from sea the coast may be safely 
 approached, with the ordinary precautions ; but this is not the case in 
 other parts. Further to the north the land declines in height, and can 
 be seen at a moderate distance only : it must therefore be approached 
 with caution. 
 
 The warnings, which may be acquired by soundings, in the proximity of 
 land to which you may be approaching, depend on the part you may be on. 
 These warnings may be of little service on the eastern coast, particularly 
 between the isle of St. Catherine and Olinda, as the bank of soundings 
 extends to no long distance, and great depths prevail on its outer edges, 
 the parallel of the Abrolhos rocks excepted. Between the parallels of 21 
 and 22 S. the depths vary from 40 to 17 fathoms, 12 leagues from shore ; 
 at 30 leagues, east from Cape St. Thome, there are more than 100 fathoms. 
 Soundings extend more to the East and S. E. of the Abrolhos, though but 
 little to the eastward of the meridian of 37 10', which is 27 leagues to 
 the east of these islets ; and, beyond this, there is shortly no ground at 
 190 fathoms. 
 
 At only 8 leagues to the S. E. of Cape St. Antonio, off Bahia, no bottom 
 is found at 180 fathoms ; but south of this cape, at 9 miles distant, there 
 are 28 fathoms of water. Again, at 9 leagues, on the Morro, off St. Paulo, 
 with the Morro in sight to the west, there is no bottom at the depth of 
 50 fathoms. 
 
 From Bahia to Olinda the bank is generally steep ; at 9 leagues to the 
 east of the tower of Garcia da Vila the depth is not less than 160 fathoms ; 
 at the same distance to the east of the inlet Itapicuru the depth is 180
 
 252 
 
 fathoms; it exceeds 170 fathoms at 20 leagues from Rio Real and Rio 
 Sergipe, and it is found to be nearly 50 fathoms, at 10 leagues to the 
 eastward of the mouth of the Rio S. Francisco. Finally, on all the coast, 
 nearly to Pernambuco, there is found not less than 30 fathoms, at 9 leagues 
 from shore ; v *nd, at less than double this distance, on the parallels of 
 Pernambuco and Olinda, there is not a depth of less than 110 fathoms. 
 To the northward of the parallel of Olinda the depth comparatively 
 lessens, but, it is again very great, at a little distance from the land. 
 Hence, it appears, that on a great part of the line of coast, between the 
 isle of St. Catherine and Cape St. Roque, the depths are, in general, 
 either too great or too uniform to serve as a guidance, or to suffice for 
 correcting an estimation of the route to any particular spot. But it is 
 not to be understood that it is useless to sound on the coast, only observ- 
 ing that too much dependance should not be placed on the soundings, at 
 any distance from shore. 
 
 NATAL. This city is situated on the S. E. bank of the Rio Grande do 
 Norte, or Indian Pontangi, a rapid river in the rainy season, but in the 
 dry season it is much reduced ; the channel to this river is protected by 
 the recife, both on the north and south. It appears that the ends of the 
 two portions of the recife, forming the entrance, are nearly on a true east 
 and west line from each other, so that the channel-way faces the north, 
 while the reefs are nearly in the same direction. The distance between 
 the two extremities is about two cables' length, and the depths 3f to 6 
 fathoms, the depths within, and up to the town, 4 to 6 fathoms ; but there 
 are shoal banks within the reefs, on both sides, while the mid-channel is 
 clear. A round fort, called the Fort dos Reyo Magos, stands on the mid- 
 dle of the southern reef, at the entrance ; it is insulated at high water, but 
 may be seen several miles off, and is the best mark. To enter the river, 
 keep a fort on the main land, within the entrance, open of the extremity 
 of the southern reef, until the round fort on that is seen from the W. f S., 
 and steer for it ; when within two-thirds of a cable from it, proceed toward 
 a white house, on the same side, and then directly for the town, in mid- 
 channel, keeping over to the eastern shore, as there is a shoal bank all the 
 way up on the opposite side. The town is about 2^ miles from the 
 entrance, and there the breadth of the river is three-tenths of a mile, with 
 an increasing depth of water. 
 
 To the southward of the Rio Grande is the Ponta Negra, distant 6 
 leagues. Several miles to the north of this are some red cliffs, called by 
 the pilots, the Barriers of Hell, (Barriers de Infierno) and which extend 
 in the direction of north, at some distance from shore ; a rivulet falls at the 
 foot of them, through an opening in the recife, before which breakers 
 extend to about a mile. BAHIA FERMOSA, or Fair Bay, is nearly two 
 leagues in extent, from north to south, and has, in the middle, 4 fathoms 
 at low water ; but having much foul ground, patches of coral, with some 
 rocks, and open to the sea, it is not safe anchorage. The Ponta da Pipa, 
 between Bahia Fermosa and Ponta Negra, is a rock on the point of land, 
 upon which the sea breaks. To the N. W. of it arc two villages. 
 
 Nine leagues to the southward of Bahia Fermosa is Bahia Traizao, or 
 Treason bay ; it has been, heretofore, described as the best anchorage on 
 this part of the coast ; but it is only a small cove, and offers no shelter 
 against winds from between north and south by the east. To the north- 
 ward of the Bahia Traizao the coast presents a continuous line of downs of 
 white sand, covered, at intervals, with bushes. To the south ward of the 
 Bahia Traizao is the little river of Mananguape, distant 3 miles ; between 
 are several small reddish cliffs. The river is navigable by the coasters
 
 253 
 
 only ; its south point is of sand, woody, very low, and it projects to the 
 N. by E., terminating in breakers, on the north side of which is the 
 entrance. 
 
 RIO PARAHYBA. This river may easily be found by making Cape 
 Branco, which lies 10 miles to the southward. This cape is a projecting 
 headland, having a steep cliffy shore, of white sand. Two remarkable 
 cocoa-nut trees mark the extremity of the cape. From off Cape Branco 
 the country, to the N. \V., appears like two plains, which, on approaching, 
 become distinctly marked. The otiter one, by the sea, is low and sandy, 
 but woody in the higher part. The river Parahyba flows between the 
 two plains, and its direction is S. S. W. from its mouth. The south point 
 of the mouth of the Parahyba is low, sandy, and woody, and forms the 
 extremity of the first plain, before noticed ; the barrier reef extends in 
 front of this plain, at the distance of nearly half a mile. The north point 
 is formed, on the second plain, by a more elevated coast, and on it are 
 some cocoa-nut trees. On the height to the N. W. is the conspicuous 
 convent of Nossa Senhora de Guia. Extensive breakers indicate the 
 mouth of the river, in front of which, at the distance of three miles, there 
 are 10 fathoms of water. Of the points which form the outer entrance of 
 the river, that on the south is called Ponta Balea, and that on the north 
 Ponta Lucena ; these points bear from each other N. N. W. and S. S. E., 
 85 miles. On the shore, within Ponta Balea, is Cabedello fort, which 
 may be seen from the offing, and it serves as a point of recognition for the 
 low and even coast, which is destitute of other buildings. The bar is shoal 
 and dangerous, and its best water , at low tide, is 2^ fathoms. Vessels of 
 150 to 200 tons cannot proceed much above Cabedello fort, but small 
 vessels go up to the town. Pilots come off and bring vessels to a road- 
 stead off the fort, in order to be visited. The city of Parahyba is about 
 4 leagues from the sea, but the sinuosities of the river make the distance 
 6 leagues. 
 
 REMARKS on the Harbour and River of Parahyba do Norte^ by Com- 
 mander the HON. F. F. DE Roos, R. N. " The river Parahyba do Norte, 
 which is situated 67 miles north of Pernambuco, has an extensive com- 
 merce, and is generally visited by ships, homeward-bound from that port, 
 to complete their cargoes; vessels drawing 16| feet can safely enter, at 
 the springs. 
 
 " The coast here trends north and south, and the direction of the river 
 is S. S. W., nearly in a straight line. On the south point (Balea) of the 
 entrance, which is low, sandy, and wooded, is built the strong fortress of 
 Cabedello. The north point is also low, with cocoa-nut trees upon it, but 
 immediately behind is some high wooded land, on the point of which the 
 remarkable convent, da Guia, is distinctly seen. The barrier reef termi- 
 nates abreast of the south point, when the bar commences, and continues 
 until it reaches the extensive shoals which stretch out from Point Lucena. 
 
 " Ships approaching from the south are recommended to make Cape 
 Branco, which is 4 leagues south of Cabedello. It is a remarkable point, 
 with two cocoa-nut trees upon the very extremity. From the northward 
 the latitude may be run down, when Cabedello fort will appear. It is the 
 only fortress, for many leagues, upon the coast, which, otherwise, bears a 
 great sameness of appearance. Ships should, on no account, venture into 
 less than 6 fathoms water. 
 
 " A gun fired will bring off a pilot ; they come in jangadoes, from the 
 cocoa village to the south of the fort, and are considered expert and 
 tru^t-worthy. 
 
 ' The bar is at some distance from the land, and, as the passage is tor-
 
 254 
 
 tuous, it is not safe to enter without a pilot ; on it there is 8 feet water, at 
 low water, spring sides. 
 
 " The bottom is sand, in some spots hard. There are breakers on either 
 hand, and the marks which are given are difficult to distinguish, and there- 
 fore not to be depended upon. 
 
 " The land-winds are not of frequent occurrence ; vessels, therefore, 
 have generally to beat out against the prevailing N. E. wind, which blows 
 steadily. H. M. Sloop, Algerine, working out, in October, 1832, made 
 twenty-one tacks. 
 
 " It is usual, for all ships entering, to anchor off the Port Cabedello, in 
 order to be visited ; after this they are at liberty to proceed up the river. 
 H. M. Sloop, Algerine, was anchored with the fort bearing, by compas^ 
 S. 60 E., distant a quarter of a mile, in 5| fathoms. Bad water, and few 
 supplies are to be found at this place. 
 
 " A different pilot is appointed to take vessels up the river, which, as 
 the wind is generally fair, is an operation of little difficulty or danger, and 
 is almost always affected in one tide. The tm> shoalcst spots are situated 
 one just above Cabedello, and the other abreast of the entrance of the 
 Tambia river. Going down is tedious, as ships have beating winds, but 
 the reaches are long. Thao)ottom throughout iAoft mud. 
 
 " It is necessary to warg into the anchorage onthe city, which is perfectly 
 sheltered and secure. Ideed, the only vessel ever lost in the river was 
 one, which, by inadverten.ce, grounded upon her anchor, and foundered. 
 
 " Water is to b,e procu/ed by sending boats, with casks, up the rivers. 
 That of the Tambia is celebrated for its purity. Provisions may be had in 
 abundance, andjjA^Tvery moderate rate. 
 
 *' We had no opportunity of ascertaining the latitude of Cabedello, but 
 have asspmed it, after Baron Roussin, to be 6 57' 50'' S. The difference 
 of longitude, measured from Cabedello to the lighthouse of Pernambuco, 
 by three good chronometers, makes 5, 9, or 1' 28', 5 to the eastward, 
 which, allowing that place to be in 34- 51', gives the longitude Of 
 Cabedello 34 50', 5. . The variation of the compass we observed to be 
 5 14' W. High water, on the full and change, at 5 h. ; springs rise 12 
 feet. The land-breeze is seldom experienced here." Nautical Magazine 
 for 1833, page 695. 
 
 Four leagues to the southward of Cape Branco is the Porto dos 
 Francezos, which affords occasional anchorage for ships, but on bad 
 ground. Hence, southward, the recife continues to the river Capibarami, 
 or Goyanna river ; the bar of this river lies nearly midway between 
 Coqueiros, or Cocoa-tree point, and Ponta de Pedras Rock point. Here 
 the outer reefs extend to nearly a league from the bar, and it is said that 
 vessels of 40 tons may proceed as far. The points Coqueiros and Pedras 
 aVe nearly on the meridian of 34 47', and they are the easternmost points 
 of Brazil. 
 
 ITAMARCA. This island lies parallel to the main, nearly north and 
 south, and is about 8 miles long ; it has good water and an excellent 
 harbour, the principal entrance to which is south of the island ; here vessels 
 of 300 tons may safely go over the bar, but you must have a fair wind for 
 that purpose, on account of the narrowness of the channel, which is, in 
 some places, not a musket-shot wide, and at this narrowest part is a shoal 
 having, at low water, only 2^ fathoms over it ; but, having passed this bank, 
 your water deepens, and you may ride in perfect safety. The bar has 3 
 fathoms over it, with spring tides, and the rise of water is about \\ fathoms ; 
 from the bar to the anchorage is one league. The northern bar of the 
 island is called Barra, or entrance* of Catuama, this is a shallow and
 
 255 
 
 difficult channel, which admits nothing larger than boats and small craft, 
 although, in some parts, there is more than 3 fathoms at high water. 
 
 PAO AMARILLO, OR YELLOW WOOD RIVER. This little harbour is 
 formed by a break in the recife, which here runs parallel to the shore, both 
 to the northward and southward. There is a depth of 3 fathoms near the 
 entrance, but, though there is room enough for vessels to anchor, it is unsafe, 
 being between the reef and the shore, in a narrow channel, and being always 
 necessary to have two anchors out, one on the reef, and the other on land, 
 to prevent the ship swinging with the tide. On approaching to the 
 Amarilla you may see, on the beach, a small battery. Vessels draw- 
 ing 6 or 7 feet of water, which enter here, may proceed with high water, 
 hence to Pernambuco, by passing within the recife and banks of Olinda. 
 
 The shore, between this place and Itamarca, is composed of woody hills, 
 cultivated, and separated from the sea by a beach of white sand, at 2 or 
 3 miles from which you may find from 10 to 14 fathoms of water, bottom 
 of sand and gravel. The coast hence southward to Olinda increases in 
 height, and may be seen at a distance of 5 leagues. 
 
 PERNAMBUCO AND OLINDA. These are places of great trade. 
 It will be seen, from what has already been written, as well as from an 
 inspection of the chart, that the navigation of this whole coast of the 
 Brazils is encumbered with, and rendered dangerous by, numerous ro6ky 
 reefs ; and the mariner who is coming from the northward, and bound to 
 Pernambuco, should be particularly careful to give the point of Olinda a berth 
 of full 3 miles, coming not into less than 10 fathoms water ; for, should he 
 approach nearer to the land, he will find his sounotings extremely irregular, 
 and the surrounding reefs in many parts steep and dangerous. About 85 
 miles S. W. by S. from Olinda point lies the little bar of Pernambuco, 
 where, on the northern extremity of the recife, or reef, stands the fort of 
 Picao, an octagonal tower, with 7 guns ; and, on the opposite side, the 
 fort of Bruno, between which, over the bar, is 9 and 10 feet water. One 
 mile and a quarter E. by N. from fort Picao lies the Englishman's lank, 
 stretching, from north to south, three-quarters of a mile, and from east to 
 west, about half a mile : this is rocky, composed of hard concreted stones 
 and shells, and has over its shoalest part only two fathoms. The marks for 
 it are a large cocoa-nut tree, distinguishable from all parts of the bay, 
 and situated between the two highest buildings on the hill above Olinda, 
 in one with the jetty on the beach immediately under that town, and bear- 
 ing N. | E. The cross bearing, for the southern extremity, must be taken 
 by compass, the Picao tower due west. Between this bank and the basin, 
 or well, is a passage of 5 fathoms, and nearly half a mile in breadth. 
 
 Small vessels run over the bar of Picao, called also the little bar, which 
 has 10 feet on it. The marks for it are, the two turrets of the southern 
 angle of Fort Bruno in one. Large ships discharge and take in their 
 cargoes in a basin, called the Poco, or Well, immediately at the head of the 
 reef, and outside the harbour. The entrance to the latter is between some 
 detached rocks, apparently a continuation of the reef, called the great bar. 
 It has on it 17 feet of water, increasing to 20 within, when the vessels 
 moor. The inner, northern, and southern sides, are formed by the gradual 
 decrease of depth toward the shore, and are sandy. 
 
 In the offing the bottom is composed of fine white sand, but nearer the 
 coast numerous patches of corals are interspersed, dangerous to cables. 
 The best anchorage for men of war is, with Olinda North, and the Picao 
 tower N. W., in 6 fathoms, as this is the only spot in the bay near the town 
 . of Pernambuco where they can lie, without the danger of parting in the 
 space of three or four days.
 
 256 
 
 The LIGHTHOUSE at the entrance of the harbour, stands about 50 yards 
 from Fort Picao, OH the point of the reef. The tower is octagonal and 
 painted white. It stands on a rock, which is covered at one quarter flood ; 
 the lantern exhibits three lights in succession, from sunset to sunrise, of 
 which two are brilliant %nd the other red : these make one complete revo- 
 lution in every two minutes, and may be seen from the mast-head, in clear 
 weather, 20 miles off. 
 
 OJ&PE ST. AUGUSTINE is a high rugged projection, easily known 
 by its red cliffs, with a church Ifcd barn on its summit. It has also, on 
 'its eastern extremity, a battery mounting five guns, which is difficult to be 
 distinguished at any considerable distance. By giving Cape St. Augustine 
 an offing of 6 or 7 miles, when bound to Pernambuco from the southward, 
 and steering a N. by E. course, you will soon gain a sight of the city of 
 Olinda ahead, situated on the northern extremity of the bight which 
 contains the HARBOUR AND ROAD OF PERNAMBUCO. The city stands, 
 principally, on the southern declivity of a pleasant hill; and when the 
 highest buildings are well in sight, Pernambueo will be seen to the south- 
 ward of them, the site being low and sandy. 
 
 THE FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS FOR PERNAMBUCO, &c., ARE TAKEN FROM 
 THE PILOTE DU BRAZIL OF THE BARON RoussiN. "The true bearing 
 and distance of Cape St. Augustine, from the point of Olinda, is S. 17 W. 
 (by compass S. 21 W.) distant 21 miles. Cape St. Augustine is the land- 
 fall generally ma^Je, when bound for Pernambuco, during the southern 
 monsoon. The coast to the north 'of this declines half a league to the 
 west, and forms a slender bay ; at 17 miles northward from the cape is the 
 city of Pernambuco. The middle of this coast is marked by the chapel of 
 ATossa Senhora do Rosario, built on an elevation about half a league inland, 
 and having two towers or steeples, which facilitate Ai knowledge of the 
 place, on coming in frofn sea. The shore is low and covered with trees, 
 nearly as far as Pernambuco ; and, in coasting along shore, at from two 
 to four miles off, there will be found from 11 to 17 fathoms of water, 
 bottom of sand, with a mixture of broken madrepores. 
 
 " Having recognised Cape St. Augustine, you may proceed to the north- 
 ward, at 2 or 3 miles from the coast, until you raise the fort Picao and 
 lighthouse, between the N. W. and W. N. W. ; then steering for the latter, 
 it may be approached until you bring the cocoa-nut trees of Olinda, stand- 
 ing between the two highest buildings of the city, nearly N. by E. On this 
 bearing, you will be at 700 or 800 toises (three-quarters of a mile) from 
 the lighthouse, and you may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms, bottom of sand, 
 with shells and patches of coral ; bad bottom it is true, but which it is al- 
 most* impossible to avoid entirely in the road of Pernambuco. 
 
 " During the northern monsoon, the coast should be made a little to the 
 north of .Olinda point, in latitude 8 1' S., and longitude 34 50' : this point, 
 as before noticed, is bordered with a rocky shelf and breakers, extending 
 outwards about two miles, and therefore should be passed at the distance 
 of 3 miles, in 8 or 9 fathoms, until you bring the lighthouse and fort Picao 
 at several degrees to the north of west ; thus avoiding the English bank, 
 (already described) over which the sea breaks in adverse weather." 
 
 The Road of Pernambuco is dangerous in such weather, as the swell is 
 then very strong. The anchorage is on a rhomb to the west of the 
 meridian of Olinda point, at less than half a mile from the kay or recife of 
 Pernambuco, and there is some risk of driving, on shore with a strong wind 
 from the points between S. S. E. and E. N. E., more particularly in the 
 adverse season or southerly monsoon, March to September, when the 
 winds are frequently violent.
 
 257 . 
 
 The northern monsoon is, at times, not more favourable than the other to 
 the surety of "vessels which may anchor hire. Easterly winds are more 
 frequent than those from the north, especially on the approach of new and 
 full moons ; and although, in this season, the weather is commonly fine, 
 and the breezes weaker than those of the opposite season, it is requisite to 
 take all precautions against accidents ; and the first of these precautions is, 
 not to anchor too near the land. 
 
 We have noticed that the bottom of the road of Pernambuco is of bad 
 quality; in fact, this anchorage, with a cable liable to be cut, offers no 
 security ; and vessels employed here should have iron cables, for the best 
 serving or rounding would protect the others but very imperfectly, from 
 the effect of the great quantity of corals, madrepores, and lost anchors, 
 interspersed over the bottom of this roadstead. 
 
 Vessels commonly moor E. N. E. and W. S. W., in order to have a 
 long warp toward the offing, as well as to be more firmly situated, and 
 readier for getting under- way. It is prudent to have the sails and all things 
 so disposed as to get under-way promptly, should it be required. In the 
 contrary case, drop an additional anchor in the evening, which you raise 
 next morning. 
 
 Should you be obliged to remain some time in the road during the 
 southern monsoon, it may be convenient to have two anchors ahead to- 
 ward the offing, and one anchor on the poop to drop toward the W. N. "W., 
 in order to hinder the vessel's drifting during the calm which often succee.ds 
 a squall. The last anchor serves to resist the land-breeze, which, however, 
 is rare in this season, and not strong in the road in any time of the year. 
 
 The Harbour of Pemamluco, formed on the coast by the recife which 
 borders the shore, is sufficiently large and deep for receiving a certain num- 
 ber of vessels drawing -from 10 to 12 feet of water. This port, as already 
 noticed, is divided into two parts. The first, or exterior port, is named the 
 Poco or Well, and is simply an anchorage, situate at the head of the reef, 
 to the north of the harbour. Its entrance is formed by several rocks, or 
 flats of detached madrepores, under water, and which are probably a con- 
 tinuation of the principal reef. This entrance is named the Great Bar, 
 and on it are from 17 to 30 feet, at low water. Within it vessels moor with 
 four fasts, the head to the offing. The ground of the Poco is of sand, and 
 the depth decreases toward the shore. This place is open to the wind 
 from the offing, and the sunken rocks at the entrance render it untenable 
 during the southern monsoon. 
 
 " The harbour of Pernambuco, or port of Recife, is comprised between 
 the kay of rock and the city, and is called Mosqueirao. It has from 2 to 
 3 fathoms of water, and is sheltered from the sea by the recife. In this 
 place are from 8 to 6 feet at half-tide ; but for entering they must pass 
 over a bar of sand, on which, at low water, the depth is not more than 7. 
 feet. This bar is defended by the forts Bruno and Picao, already noticed. 
 
 " The marks for sailing in, by the two passages leading into the port of 
 Pernambuco, are 1st, for the Poco, or small Pyramid, built on the beach, 
 surmounted by a cross, and called the Cruz do Patrao, in a line with the 
 church of St. Amaro, on the continent, which is surrounded with cocoa-nut 
 trees : these are a little way up the country, and clearly seen. The bear- 
 ing of the objects in one is nearly true west ; but before the leading mark 
 is brought on, on approaching from the offing, you must avoid the English 
 bank, by observing the precautions before mentioned. From the PoO or 
 Well, this bank bears nearly east, less than a mile : its shallow part is 
 indicated by breakers. Having entered, you will see all the interior of the 
 harbour, having the lighthouse to the south ; and, by proceeding S. by W. 
 
 K K
 
 258 
 
 (S. ^ W.) you gain the port of Mosqueirao. 2ndly, smaller vessels com- 
 monly take, on entering, the pass immediately to the north of the light- 
 house, the direction for which is, to bring the two southern turrets of fort 
 Bruno in one, and keeping this mark on, with 18 to 15 feet of water, until 
 you see the western or inner edge of the recife, with fort Picao to the south, 
 when you proceed along until you have the harhour, and having advanced 
 to a proper distance, you make fast on the larboard side. The harbour is 
 protected from the violence of the sea by the recife, the lower parts of 
 which have been raised to the level of the other, like a continued kay. 
 This natural wharf shelters vessels in the harbour from the winds in the 
 offing, which are at times very strong ; but they rarely cause damage to 
 vessels well moored, though in a basin of small extent." 
 
 The predominant winds in this road are those of the tropic, which may 
 be said to blow generally from S. S. E. to N. N. E., with this variation, 
 that, from March to September, they approach more from the South (and 
 sometimes even from S. W.) than in any other part of the year. In the 
 latter season they prevail, almost without interruption, from E. N. E. to 
 N. N. E. 
 
 The land-breeze, regular in the port, is very light in the road, and is 
 rarely felt beyond the recife, where the breakers always deaden it ; but it 
 weakens or lulls the first winds coming from the offing. The strongest of 
 these, both outside and in the port, are from ten o'clock in the morning 
 until five in the evening, that is in all the day, during the absence of the 
 land-breeze. 
 
 The temperature is commonly high at Pernambuco, especially during the 
 night, and until nine or ten in the morning ; then, after several moments 
 of calm, which are very oppressive, the sea-breeze rising a little, reaches the 
 coast and refreshes the air, until the moment of sunset. Notwithstanding 
 its heat the climate of Pernambuco is considered as generally salubrious. 
 
 The tides are irregular in the port, probably because the rivers are 
 affected by local circumstance, which increase or diminish the volume of 
 water. Th.e reflux or ebb is, however, perceptible after the sea has ceased 
 to rise, and seems to accord with the lunar influence. The difference of 
 level between high and low water is commonly 6 feet ; but it attains 8 feet 
 at the syzigies, and then the strength of the stream in the port is about 
 two miles an hour. Under the latter circumstances it is high water at 
 4 h. 30 m., afternoon, or very nearly so. In the road the tides are always 
 irregular, and the currents are determined by the prevailing winds at sea. 
 
 The variation of the compass near Pernambuco, in December, 1819, 
 was 4 48' W., near Cape St. Augustine, 4 30'. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR SHIPS BOUND TO PERNAMBUCO. (Nautical Magazine for 
 1835, page 321.J " Ships bound to Pernambuco from the eastward should 
 get into the latitude of the lighthouse, or 8 4' S., and run down in that 
 latitude until they see the light, which is a revolving red and bright one, 
 and may be seen at the distance of twenty miles from the mast-head, in 
 clear weather. When approaching the coast, at night, the lead should be 
 used ; soundings will be got about the same time the land is seen from the 
 mast-head, say in 50 fathoms, sandy bottom. 
 
 " Should a vessel fall in to the northward of the port, and not see the 
 light, great care should be taken not to run too far in, or into less than 20 
 fathoms, until day-light. The town of Olinda, which is situated on an 
 eminence, is a mark which cannot be easily mistaken. It has a beautiful 
 appearance when approaching it from the eastward, in the morning. In- 
 deed, it is the principal object of any notice along this part of the coast. 
 Having got sight of Olinda, which is well known by its churches and other
 
 259 
 
 large buildings, the lighthouse and town of Pernambuco will next be seen 
 a little to the southward. Get the lighthouse to bear \V. N. W. and run 
 in, in that direction; you will then avoid Olinda reef, and Englishman's 
 bank or reef; you may anchor in 8, 7, and 6 fathoms, about one, two, or 
 three miles from the light, but do not bring it to bear any more to the 
 northward than N. N. W., as you will be then in a rocky bottom, and 
 near a shoal that lies a little to the northward of the Jangada passage, and 
 about a quarter of a mile from the reef. 
 
 " Should a stranger fall in to the northward of Pernambuco a near approach 
 is dangerous, on account of extensive reefs that lie two or three miles from 
 the shore : these reefs also extend as far to the northward as Itamaraca. 
 This is not the case to the southward of the harbour, for, from the shoal 
 that lies off the Jangada Passage, before-mentioned, to Cape St. Augustine 
 the ground is clear, with the exception of some small patches of reef that 
 lie closer in shore. Anymore than these, and two small rocks that lie two 
 miles to the northward of the cape, and close to the shore, are the only 
 rocks or shoals that I am aware of on this part of the coast, except small 
 pieces of reef or stone lying on the beach. 
 
 " For a stranger to know ic/ien Jie is to the northward or southward of 
 Pernambuco. When to the northward the land will appear green and 
 f.ull of verdure, as far to the northward as Itamaraca, and no appearance of 
 any white banks of sand. When abreast' of the north end of this island 
 three large cocoa-nut trees will be seen to- the W. N. W. ; Olinda may be 
 seen from the mast-head, at the same time, to the S. W. ; you will also see 
 a white fort, six miles to the north of Olinda, called Pao Amarello. Should 
 the wind prevent a vessel from lying along shore, on the larboard tack, 
 stand off until midnight or morning, as the wind then is apt to blow at 
 right angles with the shore, which will enable them to gain their port. 
 
 " Should a vessel fall in to the southward about Cape St. Augustine the 
 land is very remarkable, having 10 or 12 cocoa-nut trees on its summit, 
 and reddish banks of sand. There is also a large building among the 
 cocoa-nut trees ; but the most remarkable object about this part is some 
 white cliffs, about three miles to the northward of the cape : these cliffs 
 are ragged and craggy, appearing like clothes drying at a distance. Olinda 
 will also be seen to the N. W. Should a vessel fall in to the southward of 
 this cape, a large mountain will be seen, having the appearance of a saddle, 
 and also two flat mountains, one on each side of the saddle mountain, 
 bearing in a westerly direction. Should the weather be thick, so as the 
 land cannot be seen far off, there is another remarkable object about 6 or 
 8 miles to the southward of the lighthouse, namely, a church, situated 
 also on an eminence, called Nossa Senhora do Rosario, which has two 
 steeples, and also a good mark for the harbour of Pernambuco." 
 
 " To enter the harbour of Pernambuco. There are generally pilots em- 
 ployed to conduct the vessels entering the port; but, should none be 
 convenient, get the vessel under-way about two, or one and half-hours 
 before high water (if at anchor.) Should the vessel not be drawing more 
 than 16 or 17 feet, the small or Picao channel will be sufficient. Keep the 
 two south turrets on fort Bruno in a line, which will lead you within 20 
 yards of the rock that lies to the north of the lighthouse ; but this rock is 
 steep close to, so that a vessel may luff close round it, and keep close to 
 the reef, if the wind permits, until within a cable's length of the lower tier 
 of shipping ; then drop the larboard anchor, and await the orders of the 
 harbour-master or pilots. The bar of Pernambuco, or the shallowest 
 water, is a little above fort Picao, or the first gun from this fort. Vessels 
 drawing more than 16 feet generally anchor in the Po0 or Well, that is
 
 2GO 
 
 with the lighthouse bearing about 8. E., distant two cable's length, where 
 they may discharge part of their cargoes : this depends, however, on the 
 state of the tides. Large ships discharge and load also outside the harbour, 
 to the westward of the Englishman's bank, and about three-quarters of a 
 mile N. E. of the lighthouse. Vessels lie moored in Pernambuco with 
 two anchors down from the side next the town, and also two ropes or 
 chains to the reef. Four vessels generally lie in a tier, and are sheltered 
 by the reef, which is formed by nature, with the exception of a few stones 
 which have been laid a little above fort Picao. The sea inside the harbour is 
 in general smooth, except at the top of high water, spring tides, when there 
 is not only a heavy swell, but also a strong current rushing over the reef. 
 In this case good ropes or chains should be fastened to the reef. This only 
 lasts about two hours at each high water, during a few days, at spring tides. 
 
 " There are several channels, or breaks in the reef, navigable on entering 
 the harbour, and extending from the lighthouse towards Olinda. The first 
 is close to the lighthouse, about one furlong wide. The large ship-channel 
 is three-quarters of a mile wide, and clean ground. This channel is mostly 
 used by ships outward-bound, as it is wide and safe for turning out. The 
 marks for this channel are the cross, called the Cruz do Patrao, and a white 
 gable of a house (a little to the north of S. Amaro church) in a line, which 
 will clear the danger, on the southern side of the channel, or reef that lies 
 to the north of the small channel. Then, again, by keeping fort Buraco 
 open to the northward of a large building, about half a mile inland, will 
 clear the danger or reef lying to the northward of this channel. There is 
 also another break in the reef, or passage to the northward of this, but 
 seldom used by large ships, as it lies out of the way of the harbour. On 
 the north side of this there is a small rock, dry at low water. Here the 
 sunken rocks terminate, leaving a fourth channel between this rock and 
 Olinda, used only by coasting vessels. 
 
 " Olinda Reef. Leaving Pernambuco great care should be taken not to 
 stand too near this reef, as about the outer edge there are some rocks lying 
 at some distance outside of it. The greatest danger of coming in contact 
 with this reef is, when leaving the harbour late in the afternoon, with the 
 wind so as it cannot be cleared without tacking. In daylight there is little 
 to fear, as the broken water can be seen ; but, after the first tack, night 
 may approach, so that the breakers cannot be seen, and also a strong 
 northerly current (which is generally the case with the wind from this 
 quarter) which in this case requires great care. The safest way in this 
 case is to keep well to the southward. The marks for clearing this reef in 
 the day-time are the Camona, or the highest church in Santo Antonio, open 
 to the southward of the lighthouse, or the church with two steeples, lying 
 a little to the north of the other, which leads a vessel still clearer of it. If 
 at night, do not allow the light to bear any further to the southward than 
 W. S. W. until Olinda bears N. W. by W., or W. N. W., a vessel will 
 then be a good distance off shore. 
 
 " Englishman's Bank, or Retf. The centre of the bank or reef lies about 
 E. N. E. from the lighthouse, distant l mile. The least water I ever 
 found on it was 13 feet, at low water spring tides, and very uneven rocky 
 ground. To clear this reef to the northward, keep the highest church in 
 Boa Vista open to the northward of the lighthouse. To clear it to the 
 southward, keep the south turrets of fort Bruno shut in with the light- 
 house. The marks, when on the shallowest part of it, are the lighthouse 
 and Boa Vista church in a line, and the largest cocoa-nut tree, situated 
 between the two highest buildings in Olinda, in a line with an old decayed 
 church, the lowest public building in the town.
 
 261 
 
 " This bank, or reef, is not so bad as represented, except to vessels with 
 a large draught of water, for when vessels are coming out of Pernambuco 
 it is generally high water, when there is plenty of water over it. However, 
 when tacking in the bay at low water, the former marks must be observed, 
 as also when coming to anchor, give it a good birth to the southward, as 
 with strong S. E. winds a very heavy sea sets into this bay. When at an- 
 chor too far to the northward, a vessel may drive on it before she could be 
 brought up. The sea breaks heavy on it with the wind from this quarter, 
 in the same manner as on Olinda and other reefs to the northward of the 
 lighthouse. On entering or coming out of the harbour with open boats, 
 these breakers should be avoided, if possible, as accidents often occur with 
 the boat getting amongst them. 
 
 " The pilotage in and out of (Pernambuco) this place is very expensive, 
 although the pilots have no branch, yet it is customary for strangers to em- 
 ploy them, and even vessels trading to the port seldom refuse them. They 
 are more serviceable in mooring and unmooring the vessel, than any great 
 service they can render in coming in or going out. They have generally 
 a good boat's crew, and some of them are very expert in diving, to clear 
 away anything that may be foul of the anchor, a circumstance that often 
 takes place ; although there is one charge they make, that is, shifting the 
 vessel down from the discharging berth to that of loading, which could be 
 done without their assistance ; still they force their service on you, and, 
 under particular circumstances, a master of a vessel is induced to take 
 them. Vessels loading a sugar cargo in Pernambuco, should not load deeper 
 than 14| feet, until they go outside. However, this greatly depends on 
 the wind ; for should it be from the S. E. quarter, and a good breeze, there 
 is little danger of going over the bar, when drawing 15 or 16 feet, on the 
 height of spring tides. 
 
 "Remarks on leaving the Harbour. Vessels generally begin to unmoor at 
 half-ebb, the tide previous to their going to sea, when they have plenty of 
 time to get all their ropes or chains in, and the vessel winded, deck clear, 
 &c. Should the wind be from the S. E., a good breeze, get under-way an 
 hour before high water, keep at a proper distance from the reef, and make 
 all sail possible ; luff close round the rock that lies to the northward, off the 
 lighthouse, and observe whether the trees on Cocoa-nut island open out to 
 the eastward of the lighthouse ; if they do, the rocks that lie to the north- 
 ward of this channel will be passed to windward : then there is only Olinda 
 reef to fear; but should the wind be so as these rocks cannot be weathered, 
 which can easily be seen by the cocoa-nut trees not opening out to the 
 eastward of the lighthouse, (or the shipping in the harbour) in this case, 
 these rocks must be kept on the starboard hand, or passed to leeward, and 
 therefore beat through the wide channel, as before directed. 
 
 " It is to be observed, that all these dangers, being to the northward of 
 the lighthouse, are nearly in a direct line with the main reef, so that when 
 the shipping in the harbour are open to the eastward of the liglithouse, a 
 vessel is then clear of them to the eastward, and by having them open to 
 the westward, the vessel may run along with safety, passing to leeward of 
 them ah 1 ; and by keeping the shipping in a line with the lighthouse, you 
 pass on to the shallowest part of them. Should the wind be so ad vessels 
 cannot lie along the reef, warping down then becomes necessary, and before 
 sail is made they ought to be close down to Port Picao. Masters, or rather 
 pilots, not taking this precaution, often get to leeward, a circumstance which 
 is often attended with danger, and sometimes proves fatal. This was the 
 case with the brig Alcides, which was wrecked in 1832, abreast of fort 
 Bruno.
 
 262 
 
 " When ships are obliged to anchor outside, previous to their entering 
 the port, which is generally the case, the masters usually go in with the 
 boat, either to the King's wharf, or else alongside of a visit boat, with one 
 mast and flag, lying inside the reef, a little above the lighthouse. The 
 cargo is generally brought off in boats, or large launches, and attended with 
 very little risk, as the distance is not great, and not much swell. From 
 this advantage, and the regular sea-breeze, the wall, formed by nature, 
 with its strong guns for mooring posts, that are proof against any accident 
 that may occur, and the healthiness of the climate, this port may be con- 
 sidered one of the safest and best on the Brazil coast. 
 
 " Here it is high water, on the full and change, at half-past four. The 
 vertical rise of spring tides is 8, and of neaps 5 feet. The highest tide is 
 generally two days after the full and change." 
 
 CAPE ST. AUGUSTINE TO BAHIA, OR THE BAY OF 
 ALL-SAINTS. 
 
 FROM Cape St. Augustine, southward, the coast continues to be fronted by 
 the recife and other reefs, without which are gradual soundings to the 
 distance of about 2 leagues. The POINT OF MERACAHIPE lies four leagues 
 to the southward of Cape St. Augustine ; it is low, and appears at a dis- 
 tance inundated. When at sea, to the eastward of this point, you will, 
 however, see an inland ridge of high ground, extending north and south, 
 which has a break or dip in the middle, and called Serra Sellada, or Saddle 
 hill. This mountain stands in latitude 8 25' S., longitude 35 11' W. 
 When just open to the southward of Cape St. Augustine this mount may 
 be seen, bearing W. by S. (S. 75 W.) and when in a line with Point 
 Meracahipe it bears nearly N. W. by W. (N. 59 W.) Above the point 
 of Meracahipe is an hermitage, and between Cape St. Augustine and this 
 point arc, successively, the small hamlets of Maracay and Gallinhas. From 
 Cape St. Augustine to Point Meracahipe, and still farther southward, the 
 land is low-level, and covered with brushwood. The coast has a white 
 sandy beach bordered with a reef. 
 
 Nearly off the entrance of the little river of Serenhen are the little islets 
 of St. Aleixo, lying in latitude 8 35' 49" S. The two islets in a line bear 
 N. 60 W., true : between them and the land there is no passage. To the 
 N. W. of the islets, and at several leagues inland, may be seen the Serra 
 Sellada, already described. Captain Monteath passed the islets on the 
 20th of December, 1825, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile, the 
 soundings regularly decreasing from 12 to 10 fathoms, clayey bottom. 
 
 Three leagues to the S. by W. from the islets of St. Aleixo is PORT 
 TAMANDARE. It is against an opening in the reef, which forms an an- 
 chorage, and is much larger than most of the openings of this nature. The 
 depth and space are sufficient for large vessels, and it is said that it will 
 accommodate 3 or 4 frigates : the depths are from 4 to 6 fathoms ; a fort on 
 the coast defends the entrance and interior anchorage. The roadstead of 
 Tamandare is the best place for shelter between Pernambuco and Bahia ; 
 yet it is exposed to all winds from South to N. E. by E., and vessels are 
 not protected from the sea by the reef, for it, in several places, is very 
 little above the lev.el of the water. 
 
 On the parallel of 9 S. is the BARRA GRANDE, an inlet situate to the 
 N. E. of Porto Calvo, which may induce a stranger to suppose that it is a 
 fine harbour. It is therefore to be noticed that it has only 3 fathoms, with
 
 263 
 
 reefs to seaward, and a flat rock, covered with water. Its distinguishing 
 mark is the high land of St. Bento, on the south side, and ahove it the 
 church of St. Bento. 
 
 On the parallel of 9 11' S. is PORTO CALVO, which is small, but will admit 
 vessels of 120 tons, and may accommodate about six of that description. 
 Those who are unacquainted with the place must keep the lead going, for 
 along the coast, two miles from the land, are reefs stretching along, having 
 an interval, which constitutes the entrance, and which has a depth of 5 and 
 6 fathoms ; within is a depth of 3 and 4 fathoms. About 9 miles further you 
 will reach the Rio CAMARAGIBE, the shore is level, the beach white, and 
 the reefs still continued 1 and 2 miles from land. On the south side of the 
 Camaragibe, stretching along shore, is a range of bare hills, or cliffs of red 
 sand. Near the river St. Antonio-merim (or little St. Antonio) is a range 
 of red cliffs, half a league in length, and three small round hills, which stand 
 on its northern side. 
 
 M ACEIO, OR MACAYO, is a village situate on the western side of a 
 wooded bluff. Here the shore trends in an east and west direction, and 
 upon it, to the south of the village, is a small fort near the mouth of a 
 rivulet ; before it is an open roadstead, protected on the east by reefs of 
 coral, but which are covered at high water. There is a powder-magazine 
 on the wooded bluff, east of the town, which is white, and may be seen at 
 four leagues off. On advancing nearer the church will be seen. The an- 
 chorage is good, in 5 fathoms, sand and clay, with the town and fort 
 nearly in a line, and bearing N. N. W., at three-fifths of a mile. 
 
 Ponta Verde, or Green point, is the outer point, east of Maceio. It is 
 covered with cocoa-nut trees, with breakers over its rocky extremity. 
 When approaching from the N. E. Maceio is hidden by this point, but on 
 rounding the reefs to the westward it comes in sight. At a mile from all 
 this coast are found 10 fathoms of water, bottom of madrepores, and the 
 depth appears to increase gradually to the distance of 4 to 6 leagues, where 
 there are from 25 to 30 fathoms. In fine weather a vessel may anchor on 
 almost any part of the bank. To the northward of Maceio, far up the 
 country, are seen the Serras de Marambaya, a chain of mountains dis- 
 cernible at 15 leagues off, and are conspicuous over the adjoining land, 
 which has no distinguishing mark. The middle of the mountain of 
 Marabaya is in latitude 9 25'. The village of Juragua is situated 
 between the fort of Maceio and another fort, at the distance of a mile to 
 the east ; and nearly a mile to the southward of the last mentioned fort is 
 a Baixo, or detached shoal, which breaks with a high southerly wind. 
 It is high water, on the full and change, at 4 h. 30 m. Spring tides rise 
 8 feet. 
 
 REMARKS ON THE PORT OF MACEIO, ~by Commander the Hon. F. F. 
 de Roos. " On approaching Maceio, when at the distance of 12 or 14 miles, 
 a small white building can clearly be made out. It is a powder-magazine, 
 and is situated on a wooded bluff, which overlooks the town and harbour. 
 The land may also be distinguished by a red spot on the face of the cliff 
 about 5 miles to the S. W., and by a white chapel, with two towers, in the 
 same direction ; moreover, Mount Barriga, at a distance in the interior, 
 may be observed. It stands alone, and is higher than the land which 
 forms the coast, but is otherwise not remarkable. 
 
 " Maceio being the only convenient anchorage between Bahia and 
 Pernambuco, enjoys a considerable commerce, and has an extensive com- 
 munication with the interior. Many English vessels annually touch here. 
 Supplies are to be had at a moderate rate, and excellent water can be 
 obtained in the adjoining harbour of Paijucara, at a well near the beach.
 
 264 
 
 "The port is formed by the point of the barrier reef terminating 
 abruptly, which extends along the shore here, a sandy beach, forming the 
 continuation of the coast for some miles to the southward. It is an open 
 bay, but affords protection from the prevailing winds, which blow from 
 N. N. E. to E. S. E. throughout the greater part of the year. 
 
 " The men who fish in the jangadas, or sailing rafts, which are con- 
 stantly to be met with on this coast, are good pilots ; but there is a regular 
 harbour-master at the village of Jurugua, who will come off to bring ships, 
 on their firing a gun. 
 
 "The anchorage of H. M. S. Algerinc, was in five fathoms and a half, 
 the end of the reef bearing S. E., and the covered wharf, or trapiche, 
 E. 58 N., by compass. From this anchorage the sea is open from 
 S. E. to S. W. ^ W., bottom sand and clay ; a quarter of a mile in the 
 direction of the trapiche are moorings laid down for the trading packets 
 from Pernambuco and Bahia, which call every fortnight. 
 
 " Persons acquainted with the port generally approach it, keeping within 
 a quarter of a mile of the reef, and in this manner rounding the point ; 
 but strangers are not recommended to do this, as the soundings are 
 irregular, and the Baixo, with only 15 feet of water on it, is to be avoided. 
 The safe rule is not to bring the powder-magazine to the eastward of 
 north, till you have passed the point of the reef, you may then haul into 
 your anchorage. 
 
 " In the nine summer-months this port may be deemed safe, but in June, 
 July, and August, when the southerly winds prevail, it is very much ex- 
 posed. No English merchant vessel has ever been wrecked here, though 
 one brig, not long since, drove and bumped her rudder to pieces in a 
 southerly wind. Instances of Brazilian wrecks frequently occur. 
 
 " There is an adjoining harbour (to the east) formed by the same reef, 
 called Paijucara, which affords shelter to small vessels only. It is shaped 
 like a basin, the entrance being near the centre. It is very shallow, and 
 seldom used, as, with the wind to the northward of N. E. a vessel cannot 
 fetch in. One corvette and two brigs of war have been built in Paijucara. 
 
 " The latitude, 9 39' S., is that given by Baron Roussin ; the longitude 
 35 40' 10" W., is determined by applying the difference of longitude, 2 
 48' 19", as measured by three excellent chronometers, to the longitude of 
 Bahia. This is assumed to be 38 28' 50", which is the mean result of 
 occulations observed by myself in the year 1823." 
 
 FURTHER REMARKS ON MACEIO, by Captain C. R. Drinkwater, R. N. 
 " Maceio is a small port about one hundred miles south of Pernambuco. 
 The land to the northward is of moderate height, abounding in red cliffs. 
 Above the port there is a remarkable appearance resembling a road cut up 
 the hills. This is a pretty good mark. The harbour is formed by reefs, 
 the entrance round the southern end. H. M. Ship Doris anchored in 8 
 fathoms, rock ; broke the anchor in heaving up three hours after. A little 
 farther in, the bottom is clearer, as seen by the sludge. There is a constant 
 swell setting in." 
 
 The bar of St. Miguel das Alagoas is the mouth of a small river which 
 comes from the N. W., and on the northern border of which is the little 
 town of Sta Anna. The bar of St. Miguel admits of none but very small 
 vessels. The same is the case with Porto Franciz, a small anchorage at 
 about two leagues more to the north ; craft drawing six feet may enter 
 Porto Franciz, the only point of communication from the lakes to the sea. 
 The larger coasters stop in the exterior anchorage for receiving, by the 
 jangadas, the merchandise of the country. 
 
 lo the south-westward of Rio St. Miguel, in about 10 2' S., is the bar
 
 265 
 
 of Jiguia, which is not always navigable for the coasters, and they more 
 frequently anchor outside, but with high tides it allows the passage of the 
 smacks of 80 tons. On proceeding southward from Jiguia you pass the 
 mouth of the little river Poxim, on which is the village of Conceicao ; and 
 at the distance of 4 leagues thence is the bar of Cururippe, oft' which, at 
 the distance of nearly one league, is the Dom Rodrigo rock, which js 
 probably connected to the chain of reefs ; on other parts of this coast you 
 may approach to the distance of two miles, where there is generally from 
 10 to 13 fathoms of water. 
 
 BIO SAN FRANCISCO. This is a broad and rapid river, but shallow 
 at its entrance. It is subject to great inundations from September to 
 March, and the current is so strong that it cannot be stemmed by an 
 eight-oared barge. The entrance of the river is bordered on the south by 
 Manguinha point, which is low, and covered with mangroves ; from it heavy 
 breakers extend seaward a mile and a half. The north point is aV^^k/w, 
 and of quicksand, without vegetation ; the coast northward of it is of the 
 same nature, and there are breakers as on the south. The passage in is 
 between the breakers, and vessels anchor before it in order to engage a pilot, 
 whose assistance is absolutely requisite. Small craft only can enter it, 
 partly owing to the rapidity of the stream, and partly to the shoals at its 
 entrance. According to the pilots the mouth of the river has a depth of 
 12 or 13 feet at high water. 
 
 The RIVER COTANDIBA lies on the parallel of 11 S. It has not more 
 than 7 feet of water on the bar, but it is much frequented by the coasters. 
 When you have brought the bar to the west, you will see Mount Aracaju 
 several leagues to the N. W., remarkable from its form, in the direction of 
 the coast, with an opening at its northern extremity. To the west is the 
 high land, called the Morro do Selha, which is in the form of a cardinal's 
 hat. The rieer Vazabarris lies south-westward from Cotandiba ten miles. 
 In approaching from the east, or the south, you may see three small hills, 
 called the Os Tres Irmaos, or the Three Brothers, situated three leagues to 
 the S. W. of the entrance of the river Vazabarris. The town of Sergipe is 
 built at the foot of these hills. The mouth of the river is bordered on the 
 south by a long point of white sand, and is, as well as the north point, en- 
 compassed by violent breakers, which render an entrance difficult, under 
 the most favourable circumstance; the channel has only 10 or 12 feet 
 water. 
 
 Rio REAL. This river lies 21 miles S. S.W. from Vazabarris; seen from 
 the offing the mouth presents nothing remarkable but the breakers on each 
 side. Mango Sieco (the south point) is an extension of a beach of white 
 sand, named the Prancha, or Plank of Rio Real. From sea, at about two 
 miles off, are seen a number of huts in the environs of the bar ; over the 
 latter there are only 15 feet of water, with high tides. The swell is heavy, 
 and the passage always dangerous, and to be attempted only by the boats 
 and pilots of the country. A strong current sets outward from the river. 
 All the coast extending from the Rio St. Francisco to the Rio Real is low, 
 sandy, partly covered with bushes, and interspersed with little woody hills. 
 Without the recife, or line of rock, the ground is generally clean, and 
 between 2 and 10 miles off the depths are from 9 to 30 fathoms, bottom of 
 ooze, sand, and broken madrepores. 
 
 From the bar of Rio Real to that of ITAPICURU the distance is 7 leagues : 
 it has only 7 or 8 feet over the bar with high tide, and is much obstructed 
 by breakers, which render an approach dangerous, no distinguishing marks 
 being seen from the offing. On bringing it to the west the opening may 
 be seen, between downs on the right and left, and there is a hamlet on the 
 
 L L
 
 2G6 
 
 south side, at some distance within the entrance. The only vessels which 
 enter are the decked boats and jangadas or rafts of the country. From the 
 bar of Itapicuru the coast trends in a more southerly direction, beyond the 
 parallel of 12. Along the greater part of the coast are the reefs, and a 
 strand of white sand. 
 
 In latitude 12 32' 30" S., longitude 37 58' 30" W., is the town of Garcia 
 da Vila, the most remarkable object of this part of the coast ; it is a sort of 
 fort, on the rising land, situate among some trees, and having a signal-post ; 
 all the shore may be approached to the distance of a mile, in 11 to 14 
 fathoms, bottom of sandy ooze and broken madrepores or coral. The 
 depths increase quickly, and at 10 miles oft' there is no bottom at 40 
 fathoms. From Garcia da Vila the coast trends S. W. to Itapuan point, 
 an extent of 1 1 leagues. The recife or border of rocks continues all the 
 way, and many are always above water, appearing like islets : those in 
 particular about Point Itapuan are seen detached from the coast. 
 
 The Baron Roussin says, that on all the extent of coast between the 
 parallels of 10 and 13, we have found that the winds of the northern 
 monsoon have daily variations, a knowledge of which is useful to those 
 bound northward. During the night the land-breeze ceases, but this is 
 seldom felt beyond the reefs. On the approach of day, however, the 
 breeze freshens and blends with the winds of the offing, which seem at- 
 tracted by the north coast toward noon ; after this hour, the wind becomes 
 more easterly, so as to make an angle of about two points of the compass 
 between that of the morning and that of the evening. It follows that the 
 borders are affected by these varieties, of which advantage may be taken. 
 
 BAHIA, OR BAY OP ALL-SAINTS. From Point Itapuan the coast trends 
 nearly "W". S. W. 1 1 miles, to Cape St. Antonio, at the entrance of Bahia, 
 or the Bay of All-Saints ; upon its extremity stands the fort and light tower 
 of St. Antonio. The light is elevated about 1 20 feet above the level of the 
 sea, but it is too weak to be seen at more than 4 or 5 leagues off. By day 
 on bringing it to the west, Fort St. Antonio appears to be separated from 
 the land, by a small interval. At 2^ miles east, several degrees south, from 
 the light tower, is another point, on which is a look-out and signal station ; 
 this point is the southernmost of the promontory of Bahia, and it forms, 
 with that called Itapuanzinho, at a mile more to the east, a small bay, or 
 cove, occupied by an armaccao, and defended by the rocks. Some habita- 
 tions are remarkable on the coast about the cape, but landing is difficult. 
 Here the recife or border of reefs terminates. 
 
 The entrance of Bahia, or Bay of All-Saints, is formed, on the west, by 
 the island of Itaporica, and on the east by the peninsula, on which stands 
 the city of St. Salvador, or of Bahia, within it the land forms an extensive 
 
 fulf, or inland sea, bearing the name of Rcconcavo. The entrance of the 
 ay is 7 miles broad, and the gulf within about 32 leagues in circumference. 
 The narrowest part of the principal entrance to Bahia is 4| miles broad, but 
 about half this space, on the eastern side, is navigable for large vessels, owing 
 to ledges of rocks and uneven ground extending from the east and S. E. 
 sides of Itaporica, and should not be approached to less than 8 or 9 fathoms. 
 Without this entrance, on the eastern side, is the bank of St. Antonio, the 
 outer extremity of which, is 4*| miles S. \ E. from the Cape St. Antonio. 
 It is of an irregular shape, but narrow in proportion to its breadth, and 
 extends nearly north and south. The least depth on it is about 13 feet, at 
 low water. As the sea occasionally breaks over some parts of it in strong 
 winds, it is best to pass outside of the above distance in a large ship. Be- 
 tween the bank and the shore is a channel, having a depth of 10 fathoms, 
 with a muddy bottom ; about two miles to the eastward of the southern
 
 267 
 
 point of the bank the depth is regular, from 35 to 20 fathoms, and which 
 may be carried close to it. 
 
 At the entrance of the harbour the depths are from 14 to 16 fathoms, 
 within half a mile of the eastern shore, whence it doepens to 18 or 20 
 fathoms, westward, until about two-thirds across, further than which heavy 
 ships ought not to stand. To the westward of this are overfalls, shoaling 
 from 14 to 6| fathoms, then deepening again to 12 ; and in some places, at 
 2| miles from Itaporica, there are no more than 3 fathoms. On the eastern 
 point of Itaporica the reefs extend about a mile from shore ; and at about a 
 cable's length without them the depth is 6 fathoms; it then increases quickly 
 to 12, 18, 24, and 26 fathoms, soft muddy bottom, and in the midway 
 over is more water ; from this, in an easterly direction, the depth gradually 
 decreases to 12 fathoms, at a mile or a mile and a half from Fort do Mar. 
 
 The Panella reef is a spot of very foul ground, about half a mile in length, 
 from the centre of which the Fort do Mar bears E. S. E. f E. three- 
 quarters of a mile. It has, on some parts, only 85 fathoms, at three- 
 quarters ebb ; on the other parts are 10 fathoms, rocky bottom. There is 
 good anchorage around this shoal, between it and Fort do Mar in 7 or 8 
 fathoms, without it 12 or 14 fathoms, above it 8 or 9 fathoms, and below it, 
 in the same depth, on good ground, small vessels generally lie between the 
 city and Fort do Mar. 
 
 The best anchorage for ships of war is in 10 or 12 fathoms, with Fort do 
 Mar bearing N. 73 E., and Montserrat fort N. 28 W., at about a mile 
 and a half from the city. From this spot they will be able to get clear out, 
 with the very light morning winds, as the ebb tides sets strongly toward 
 Forts Cabo and St. Antonio. 
 
 The icatering-place is at a short distance from the south end of the town, 
 between it and Fort Gamboa ; off the latter, a shoal extends along shore, 
 and one-third of a mile outward. On this shoal H. M. Sloop Bonne 
 Citoyenne grounded in 1812; is has only 10 feet over it at three cables' 
 length from shore, hard sandy bottom. In 1841 a red buoy was placed on 
 this shoal, in 2^ fathoms, at low water : on entering it must be passed on 
 the starboard. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING IN AND OUT OF THE BAY OF TODOS os SANTOS, 
 OR OF SAN SALVADOR, commonly called BAHIA. (Nautical Magazine for 
 1835, page 385.J " Ships destined for Bahia, during the southerly monsoon, 
 should steer for the morro of San Paulo, in latitude 13 21' 53" S. and longi- 
 tude 38 54' 23" W. Although this morro is of little height, it is sufficiently 
 remarkable by being backed and followed to the northward by land lower 
 than itself, and by having, on its northern extremity, 5 or 6 cocoa-nut trees, 
 divided into two groups, and very distinct in comparison with the surround- 
 ing land. The hummock, which terminates this morro to the north, seen 
 near, presents, on the side nearest the sea, large white spots, which form a 
 striking contrast with the surrounding verdure, and which may be seen at 
 the distance of 8 leagues, in clear weather. 
 
 " To the northward of the morro of San Paulo the coast is low, sandy, 
 and bordered with reefs ; it forms a deep bay, after which it turns to the N. 
 E., and joins, at least in appearance, with the high island Itaporica, which 
 forms the west side of the entrance of San Salvador. 
 
 " The separation between the west side of the island and the continent, 
 forms what is called the false bar, or false entrance of Bahia, which is 
 very narrow, tortuous, shallow, and cannot easily be distinguished. It will 
 admit but very small vessels, and even the coasters do not use it, except 
 when trading there, or when the wind will not permit them to use the 
 principal entrance.
 
 268 
 
 " From the morro of San Paulo to Cape St. Antonio the distance is 10 
 leagues, and the direction is N. 46 E. ; in fine weather these two points 
 are visible from each other. 
 
 " From near the morro of San Paulo a ship may steer N. E. without 
 danger; a depth of 34 to 12 fathoms water will be found on a bottom of 
 mud, sand, gravel, and coral, and this course will lead, at a convenient 
 distance, between the edge of the banks to the southward of Itaporica and 
 that of St. Antonio. A large vessel should not go to the N. W. of this line, 
 while to the southward of Itaporica ; and, if the wind blows strongly on 
 the coast, she should keep outside until certain of being on the meridian of 
 the Point Tabaru, the east coast of that island, which will be known by the 
 depth being above 12 fathoms. 
 
 " If necessary to work to windward, it will be advisable to go no nearer 
 than 5 miles to the coast of the continent, when to the southward of 
 Itaporica, and to keep at the same distance from the island until Point 
 Tabaru bears north. With this point bearing north, and at seven miles 
 from it, Cape St. Antonio will bear N. 41 E. (true) distant 5 miles, and 
 the south extremity of the bank, off the Cape, about a league to the east- 
 ward ; and from thence a course may be shaped for the Cape until within 
 half a mile of its shore, and then another direct for the church of Bom Fim, 
 until abreast of the Fort do Mar, near which is the ordinary anchorage. 
 
 " Ships bound to the bay of Todos os Santos, during the northerly 
 monsoon, should endeavour to make the land some leagues to the north- 
 ward of Point Itapuan, which is on a parallel a little north of Cape St. 
 Antonio. During the soxitherly monsoon they should steer for the morro 
 of San Paulo. 
 
 " The only precaution necessary to be taken by ships from the north- 
 ward, in order to avoid the bank of St. Antonio, is to give a berth of 4 or 
 5 miles to the Cape in rounding it, until it bears N. by E. | E., when they 
 may steer for the church of Bom Fim (on the peninsula of Montserrat) 
 until abreast of the Fort do Mar, or of San Marcello, near which is the 
 ordinary anchorage. The depths in this course vary from 10^ fathoms 
 (at a mile west of the bank of St. Antonio) to 18 fathoms, (at the same 
 distance from the fort of that name ;) closing afterwards trie shore the 
 depths will diminish gradually to 9 or 8 fathoms, near the Fort do Mar. 
 If, in making this route, the wind should prove contrary, some boards may 
 be made of 2 or 3 miles, between the bearing which joins Cape St. Antonio 
 to the church of Bom Fim, and the banks on the S. E. coast of Itaporica ; 
 but it will be necessary to keep the lead going on both tacks, and not to 
 go into less than 7 fathoms. 
 
 " The ordinary anchorage of ships of war is between West and S. W. of 
 Fort do Mar, at the distance of 2 to 10 cables' length from that fort. The 
 following bearings were taken at the anchorage, in 9 fathoms, on bottom 
 of sand : The Point Maguinha of Itaporica, at N. 53 W. (trite) ; the 
 port of St. Antonio, S. 19 W. (true) ; the Point Montserrat, N. 10 E. 
 (true.) The great number of anchors lost in this bay renders it necessary 
 to round the cables, and examine them frequently. 
 
 " The anchorage of merchant ships is within the line that joins Fort do 
 Mar and the point of Montserrat. In going in the Panella rock must be 
 avoided, which the pilots place at 160 fathoms W. by N. from Fort do 
 Mar ; and on it, they say, there is not found more than 3^ fathoms, at 
 low water. 
 
 " The best place within the anchorage, for ships of war, is opposite the 
 obelisk of the public garden ; moor in a N. N. E. and S. S. W. direction, 
 that of the flood and ebb tides.
 
 269 
 
 . 
 
 " Tlie prevailing wind is from East and S. E., with which ships may get 
 
 in on one board. During the night the wind is from various points of the 
 compass, and principally from the land side. 
 
 " The bay of Todos os Santos, considered in its whole extent, forms a 
 deep gulf in the continent ; the gulf, which bears the name of Reconcavo, 
 is nearly 30 leagues in circuit ; the sea penetrates every part of it, and it 
 receives the waters of several rivers, of which some are considerable. 
 
 " The route for going out of Bahia is the same as that coming in. A 
 vessel must run along the coast at half a mile to a mile distance, until she 
 is abreast, and to the westward of, the lighthouse of Cape St. Antonio ; in 
 this track, from the Fort do Mar, from 9 to 20 fathoms will be found, and 
 if further off a greater depth, even to 28 and 30 fathoms. Arrived at one 
 mile west of Cape St Antonio, and steering S. S. W. 4| miles, the shoal 
 off the Cape will be passed in a good depth ; after which a course may be 
 shaped for the eastward." 
 
 BAHIA TO PORTO SEGURO. 
 
 ABOUT 5| leagues to the southward of Itaporica island is the morro or 
 headland of St. Paul, in latitude 13 26' S. : this is the part which former 
 navigators were accustomed to make, when bound to Bahia, during the 
 months of March and August, and from hence proceeding northward to the 
 bay ; but those East Indiamen who frequently have put into St. Salvador, 
 for refreshments, have never experienced any difficulty in getting to the 
 southward, at any season of the year, but have found the wind generally 
 drawing well to the eastward here, and still more so as they have proceeded 
 to the southward. 
 
 The MORRO DE ST. PAULO appears, at a distance, like a lofty bluff 
 ragged hill, but, as you approach it, its sides are highly cultivated, and on 
 its summit stands an old fortification; having passed by that, the land 
 forms a bay, the water within which is transparent, and still as a pond. 
 The coast of the island of St. Paul is bold ; the town of this island is the 
 capital of the presidio of St. Paul (but it is a miserable one) delightfully 
 situated. Here also are a fort and garrison. 
 
 To the N. "W. of the morro of St. Paulo is the mouth of the river Una, 
 nearly three miles broad, and forms a convenient harbour. Its western 
 shore is low and sandy, being bordered by a sand-bank more than a mile 
 broad on the outer part, but inward it diminishes to a point, at 2| miles 
 W. N. W. from the morro. On this line of direction the soundings, with 
 clean and good ground, vary from 4^ to 5, 6, 7, and 8 fathoms, with secure 
 anchorage, sheltered by the high lands to the eastward, the morro bearing 
 about E. by N. a mile distant. The landing-place is half a mile within 
 the morro, on a small bay, within which is a village protected by batteries, 
 and having a red projecting cliff on the west. High water at 3 h. p. m.; 
 rise 6 feet. 
 
 The low islet, Tinhare, lies without the morro, on the S. E. It is 3 
 cables long from W. to E., and surrounded by foul ground, with breakers 
 extending from it, on the N. E., at 7 cables from the fort on the morro 
 point. The coast of Boypeda island, southward of St. Paulo, is rocky and 
 dangerous, particularly in the southern part, called the Morrera reef. Nine 
 miles from the latter are other dangerous reefs, which extend far out 
 from Ponta dos Castelhanos. It is advisable that vessels passing should 
 not approach the coast hereabout, within half a degree.
 
 270 
 
 Point Castlehanos is the north point of an elevated coast, whence it in- 
 clines to Ponta da Muta, a low point, off which lies the little isle, Quiepe, 
 surrounded by rocks. This island, with the adjacent coast, form between 
 them a small basin, distinguished by the little town of Camamce. The 
 entrance into this is impeded by breakers, and prevent the approach of all 
 but small vessels. The land of Camamce, to the southward of Castlehanos 
 point, is covered with mangroves. Its termination may be known by the 
 Pedra Branca, a white rock upon the south side of the Rio das Contas, a 
 river accessible only by boats. From the Contas the coast trends S. 5 "YV. 
 ten leagues. All along it is perfectly clean, and large ships may proceed 
 along it, at the distance of two miles. 
 
 ST. GEORGE DOS ILUEOS. This fort is situate on the south side of the 
 bay of the same name, and appears like a part of the little town, which is 
 the capital of the province. The Rio Ilheos is large, but divided inland 
 into many small branches. The fort of St. George, on entering the river, 
 may be seen on the north side. On the bar is little more than two fa- 
 thoms. The north point of the entrance is a high land called Ponta de 
 Cao, or Dog's Nose, at the base of which are some rocks, over which the 
 sea runs in breakers. Two remarkable inlets lie off the mouth of the 
 river, at a short distance to the east, and appear, at a distance, in the shape 
 of cardinals' hats ; one is covered with trees, and the other is bare, and 
 frequently covered with breakers. These islands form, with the coast, a 
 shelter for the coasters. A range of reefs extend to the southward, 
 athwart the mouth of the river. Hence vessels, proceeding to the latter, 
 must round the northernmost islet (Ilha Verde) off the western side of 
 which they may anchor in 8 fathoms. 
 
 From the fort of St. George dos Ilheos, 8. 4 E., distant 21 leagues, is 
 the mouth of the Rio Grande de Porto Seguro, the entrance of which may 
 be by the thriving town of BELMONTE a new settlement. This town is 
 situated on the south point of the river, and is masked by heavy 
 breakers on shore to the right and left. The river has not more than two 
 fathoms over 'the bar at high water. The coast, northward of Belmonte, 
 is straight, woody, bold- to, and may be approached with safety. At from 
 1 to 5 miles from shore are found from 7 to 21 fathoms of water, over a 
 bottom of ooze and broken madrepores. 
 
 Ten leagues to the north of Belmonte are the southern boundaries of the 
 Serras de Itaraca, a group of mountains terminating the low lands which 
 follow Mount Pascoal, or Pascal, to the north. The southernmost of this 
 group are the Morros de Commandatuba, where there is a small river of 
 the same name, in latitude 15 19' S. 
 
 PORTO SEGURO lies to the southward of Belmonte, in latitude 16 26' 
 50" S. and longitude 39 W., formed by a reef of rocks running out a mile 
 from the main land, and in the direction of the land, forming a projection 
 similar to a mole, for these rocks become dry at low water, and end sharp 
 and suddenly; between these rocks and the land is the entrance to the 
 harbour, and over the bar, at high water, are 20 feet, but within, only 12 
 feet ; the ground is fine sand, and forms a broad beach. Here are a number 
 of cottages belonging to fishermen, with cocoa trees and orange grounds, the 
 land to the northward rising to a steep hill, on the summit of which stands 
 the town. 
 
 To the southward of Porto Seguro, distant two miles, is the chapel of 
 Nossa Senhora da Judea. It is elevated, and its white walls, with the trees 
 beyond it, form an excellent sea-mark ; beyond the chapel is a small shal- 
 low bay called Trancosa. Farther southward is the Rio dos Frados, the 
 mouth of which is completely choked by a bar, and there is not a single
 
 271 
 
 plantation on its banks. Southward from hence is the Rio Jucurucoe, on 
 the northern banks of which stands the Villa Prado, a place considerably 
 frequented for the article called farinha; but in the village, Alcobaca, 
 which stands more to the southward, farinha is in greater demand. 
 
 MONTE PASCOAL, or Mount Pascal, in about latitude 16 54' S. and lon- 
 gitude 39 23' W., rears its circular white head, and is conspicuous to a 
 great distance, serving as a pilot-mark in the dangerous navigation to the 
 Rio Caravelhas, for all along the coast, hereabout, is an assemblage of 
 rocks, islands, and sand-banks, which render the navigation very intricate 
 and dangerous to a stranger; but the fishermen and pilots of the place 
 conduct their vessels through the various channels with great skill and 
 safety. 
 
 The ITACOLOMI is an irregular assemblage of rocks and sandy banks, ex- 
 tending in a north and south direction 11 miles, at a distance of 5 to 10 
 miles from the coast : several of them are uncovered at low water. You 
 may navigate and anchor between them and the land from the southern 
 extremity to one half of their length, as the northern part is connected 
 to the shore by a bar or bank of sand, which is said to leave no passage. 
 By keeping 13 miles from the coast you avoid all danger, and have from 
 10 to 20 fathoms of water; at 16 miles more to the east there are 80 
 fathoms. As you advance to the land, north of the parallel of Mount 
 Pascal, you may approach it to the distance of three miles, when the 
 depths are from 10 to 22 fathoms, on a great part of the coast to the 
 northward. 
 
 The ABROLHOS, twelve leagues from land, in latitude 17 58' S. and lon- 
 gitude about 38 36' "W., are four islands, exclusive of several patches of 
 rock, of which the largest is at 150 fathoms to the north of the largest and 
 easternmost island. These islets form almost a square ; the two northern- 
 most are the highest, that to the west being 130, and the other 150 feet 
 high. The group may be seen from the top-mast head of a frigate, at the 
 distance of 22 miles, in clear weather. The N. W. island is called Seco, 
 the S. W., Barbara, the S. E., Passaros, or Birds' island, and the N. E., 
 which is the largest, perhaps half a league long, Monte dos Pedros : 
 these islands are without either wood or water, but abound with rats 
 and turtle. 
 
 On the west of the Abrolhos is the channel bearing the same name. It 
 is bounded on the west by the extensive banks and reefs named the Pracel 
 das Paredes, on which are many rocks even with, and some above, the 
 water's edge : these banks, and the shore within them, are very imperfect- 
 ly known, not having yet been properly surveyed. The extent between 
 their northern and southern parts is a distance of 13 leagues. There is 
 said to be within them a small channel along shore, known to the coasters 
 only, and not to be attempted without a most experienced pilot. The 
 eastern side of the Paredes rises abruptly from the bottom of the sea, 
 without indicating any diminution of depth. From the edge of these 
 banks, as well as in the middle of the Abrolhos channel, in clear weather, 
 the opposite coast may be seen. This coast is flat and covered with trees, 
 which, at this distance, appear as if nearly overflowed ; hence, also, the 
 Abrolhos islets may be seen. 
 
 In the Abrolhos channel the general depths are from 14 to 9 fathoms, 
 with the exception of a few spots of 7 fathoms. The direction in which 
 there is the most water is nearly S. S. E., and N. N. W. in passing at two 
 miles to the west of the islets. Baron Roussin says that although this 
 channel is 3 leagues wide, it is of little consequence to large ships ; but, 
 from an extract of a letter from a naval officer, dated at Rio, in October,
 
 272 
 
 1834, says "We sailed round the Abrolhos islands, and found the inside 
 channel* perfectly safe. In daylight, and favourable weather, any ship 
 may sail inside them without risk." 
 
 Mr. Wood, master of H. M. S. Tartar, in 1823, says, "The Abrolhos 
 are low, and their vicinity should be approached with caution ; but, with 
 due attention to the lead, they may be passed w r ith safety ; and should a 
 vessel be so situated, while attempting to pass them, either from the south- 
 ward or northward, as not to be able to weather them without tacking, 
 they will find a safe channel to the westward of them, and of some rocks 
 just appearing above water." 
 
 Extract of a letter from Captain Fitzroy, of II. M. Sloop, Beagle, dated 
 Rio de Janeiro, 10th April, 1832 : " On the 18th of March we sailed from 
 Bahia, and worked our way slowly towards the eastern limits of the 
 Abrolhos banks. The winds, being light and easterly, favoured our sound- 
 ing frequently, and taking good observations. 
 
 " Having reached the parallel of the islands, to the eastward of the 
 easternmost soundings laid down in the charts, and finding no ground 
 with 300 fathoms of line, I began to steer westward, sounding continually, 
 and keeping a sharp look-out at the mast-head. At two p.m., on the 26th, 
 we had no bottom with 230 fathoms, and at four p. m. we found only 30 
 fathoms, without the slightest change either in the colour of the water or 
 in its temperature, or any indication of so sudden a change in its depth. 
 
 " From that spot we had soundings in less than 40 fathoms, until we 
 anchored near the Abrolhos islands. 
 
 " I passed to the southward and eastward of them, because that side had 
 not been examined, but time would not allow of my doing what I wished, 
 while so favourable an opportunity offered. 
 
 "At least a fortnight would be necessary to complete the survey of Baron 
 Roussin, which appears, so far as we have examined, to be extremely 
 correct. The soundings are so irregular that little dependence can be 
 placed on the lead. It is only by a multitude of soundings, by watching 
 the sea when there is much swell, and traversing every part with a sharp 
 look-out at the mast-head, that the neighbourhood of the Abrolhos, par- 
 ticularly to the S. E., can be thoroughly examined. 
 
 " More than once we had 4 or 5 fathoms under one side of the vessel, 
 and from 15 to 20 under the other side. The sauts de sonde (skips of 
 bottom) as the French express it, are surprising. 
 
 " The tide, or rather current, which we experienced, set continually to 
 the southward for the three days that we were near these isles, varying 
 from half a mile to a mile and a half an hour. 
 
 " I supposed that the bottom was composed chiefly of coral rock, but 
 was surprised to find no coral, excepting small fragments growing on the 
 solid rock, which is chiefly gneis and sandstone. As most of the charts 
 say ' coral rockj I have sent a few of the soundings for your inspection, and 
 you will see by them that what has been here called coral is the coating of 
 a solid rock, formed by the deposit of the sea water, mixed with coralline 
 substances, and what a sailor generally calls barnacles. 
 
 " My meridian distance of the Abrolhos rocks from Bahia, their latitude 
 and their size, agree precisely with those given in the French survey. But 
 between Bahia and Rio de Janeiro, there exists a difference of from 4 to 5 
 
 * In H. M. Ship Doris, by adopting the channel inside the Ahrolhos, in 1823, made the 
 passage to Bahia, from Rio Janeiro, in half the time that the Conway did, by keeping well 
 outside. The Doris sailed from Rio after the Conway, and arrived before. The Doris had 
 smooth water and favourable weather, while the Conway had a troublesome sea and much wind.
 
 273 
 
 miles between us ; this being the only point on which I have found any 
 such difference, either on this or on the Beagle's former voyage. 
 
 " liaving made both passages I venture to observe, that going within 
 the Abrolhos certainly shortens that between Rio and Bahia very much ; 
 but yet I should not recommend it to any vessel, unless she has reason to 
 make unusual haste. The soundings are very irregular, varying suddenly 
 from 20 to 6 fathoms ; and there are both reefs and currents."* 
 
 Baron Roussin has said that an oozy or muddy bottom is rarely found 
 on the ground of the Abrolhos ; the presence of ooze in the soundings bear 
 a certain indication that you are without the shoals. He found no part 
 without a large mixture of sand and broken madrepore, or bits of coral, 
 and in the interior channel only ; and he adds that the quality of bottom, 
 most common round the Abrolhos, is a whitish sandstone, composed of the 
 debris of madrepores, and of a greater or less consistence ; sometimes this 
 stone is very firm, combined of sand and rock, mostly to the N. E. of the 
 islets. Nearer to these, from S. S. W. to N. E. by the West, the bottom 
 consists of ground like white mortar, in which the anchor penetrates but 
 little, though it holds fast. 
 
 At four or five leagues to the north of latitude 18 36' commence the 
 soundings which announce the grounds of the Abrolhos and Paredes. In 
 circumscribing these banks, the islets, and the shoals, in depths under 20 
 fathoms, an extent of 20 leagues east and west may be assigned ; and it 
 follows that a large vessel, unnecessarily, should never run to the westward 
 of the meridian of 37 40', between the extreme parallels of the shoals, or 
 17 30' to 18 15' S., whereabout, upon the bank, a depth of from 20 to 
 25 fathoms may be found. 
 
 In following, from north to south, the meridian of 37 30', from the 
 parallel of 17 40' to that of 18 10', the soundings skip, at certain places, 
 from more than 100 to 24 fathoms, rocky bottom, indicating, as very 
 probable, a still less depth; but, on a search several miles more to the 
 east, no bottom was found with the common lead. In longitude 37 no 
 ground at 200 fathoms. 
 
 PORTO SEGURO TO CAPE FRIO. 
 
 SAN MATHEO. On the low shore, in latitude 18 36' S., is the little river 
 San Matheo. The difficulty of the entrance, wherein there are only 4^ 
 feet of water, in ordinary high tides, does not allow access to any but very 
 small vessels, and the breakers, which constantly appear at the mouth, 
 render the navigation dangerous, even to canoes. The pilots say that the 
 river of San Matheo turns to the north above the entrance, after which it has 
 many sinuosities. The little town of Matheo lies 7 leagues from the entrance. 
 To the southward of the bar of San Matheo, distant 36 leagues, is POINT 
 TUBARAO on the north side of Espirito Santo. Between are the small 
 rivers of Rio Seco, Rio Doce, Reys Magos, and Carahype, which are all 
 unimportant to navigators ; from Point Tubarao a reef of rocks extends 
 to the distance of 700 fathoms, with this exception, you may approach any 
 part of the coast, at two or three miles off, whether advancing from the 
 north or the south. The depths are from 20 to 9 fathoms, bottom of sand, 
 mixed with gravel, ooze, madrepores, and broken shells. 
 
 * Journal of the Geographical Society, vol. II. i>. 315. 
 M M
 
 274 
 
 ESPIRITO SANTO, OR PORT VICTORIO. The entrance of this bay may be 
 readily known, in approaching from the north or the south, by two con- 
 spicuous mountains, named Monte Moreno, and Mestre Alvaro. 
 
 Monte Moreno is situate on the south point of the bay. It is conical 
 and partly woody, but devoid of verdure on the eastern side, and may be 
 seen, in clear weather, at ten leagues off. Its bar forms, on the north, the 
 south side of the entrance of the river of Espirito Santo. At 2| miles to 
 the S. E. of it are two rocks of unequal size, named the Pacotes ; and at 
 about a mile S. 60 W. from Mount Moreno is the Morro of Nossa Sen- 
 kora da Penha, a rocky hill, on the summit of which is a handsome church 
 of the same name, and which may be seen at the distance of 5 leagues. 
 The elevation of the Mestre Alvaro, to the northward, its form and insula- 
 ted position on a land rather low, render this mountain equally remark- 
 able ; and it is to be noticed that it succeeds the low lands of the north, 
 and nearly terminates the high lands of the south, so as to leave no doubt, 
 when it is in sight, as to the position of the vessel, even when the latitude 
 is uncertain or cannot be obtained. 
 
 Two islets situate at a short distance to the N. N. W. of Monte Moreno, 
 occupy a great part of the harbour of Espirito Santo ; but although the 
 space comprised between these isles and the hill is much obstructed by 
 reefs and two rocks, la Balea and le Cavallo, yet there is a sufficient pas- 
 sage for large vessels entering the river, and that it has not less than 1 8 
 feet of water. This passage is very narrow, but the pilots say that it is 
 the best. 
 
 The best anchorage is without the entrance, in 12 or 13 fathoms, whence 
 the college at Victorio will be in a line with the northern base of Monte 
 Moreno. Here you will have a bottom of ooze, good holding ground, and 
 be a mile without all danger ; and here you will be in a line of direction 
 for proceeding upward, with the assistance of a pilot. 
 
 To the southward of the Pacotes are the islets and rocks of Jien, and at 
 13 miles more to the southward are the Guarapari islets, between which 
 and the land is a passage for small vessels ; and all may approach to the 
 eastern side of them, for there is a depth of 7 fathoms. Further south, 
 about 3 miles, are the low islets called the Bazas, and farther on is the 
 islet, Calvada, distant 4 miles from the coast. Large ships may pass with- 
 in the Bazas and Calvada, the depths being from 18 to 11 fathoms. 
 
 To the west of the islet Calvada, is the river Guarapari, which falls into 
 the sea between two woody hills. The coast hereabout, and to the north- 
 ward, is of moderate height, nearly covered with small trees, and having, 
 at certain distances, low yellowish cliffs, which are not found to the south- 
 ward of the point of Benevente, which is 14 miles S. W. from Guasapari, 
 in latitude 20 53' 50" S. S. "W. by S., distant 5 miles from the islet 
 Calvada, the soundings are irregular, and there is frequent occasion to 
 haul out, in order to keep a depth of 12 fathoms ; such soundings extend 
 out about 4 miles to the S. S. W., and the water about them is discoloured. 
 The least depth found was 6| fathoms, and danger, if any, will show itself 
 plainly, for the water shoalens very suddenly from 12 to 8 and 6 fathoms. 
 
 About four miles from shore, in latitude 20 58' S., is Francesa islet, 
 with a reef close to it, having 7 fathoms. It stretches about a quarter of 
 a mile from its N. E. point. Between the islet and the main the depth is 
 not more than 3 fathoms, shoaling gradually, with a hard bottom. There 
 is anchorage in 7 fathoms, sandy ground, with the islet N. "W". by W. ^ W., 
 three quarters of a mile. S. S. W. | W. from Francesa, distant six miles, 
 is Egg islet, with reefs extending about half a cable's length from the N. E. 
 and S. W. points. Between it and the land are 5^ fathoms, sandy bottom.
 
 275 
 
 Nearly seven miles S. S. W. from Egg islet, distant five miles from 
 shore, is a sand-bank of 4 fathoms, having 9 and 10 fathoms on each side 
 of it, but shoaling gradually toward the land. Its length is about a mile 
 and a half long N. and S., by one quarter broad. Off Point Murubu there 
 is an appearance of breakers, at two miles from land. The soundings off 
 Point Murubu are very irregular, 13 to 9 and G fathoms; the water thence 
 deepens suddenly, with a hard rocky bottom ; at 10 leagues S. E. from this 
 part of the coast there are 20 to 22 fathoms, bottom of very fine white sand, 
 but hence toward the shore on the west, and toward Cape San Thome, it 
 gradually becomes coarser and more regular. 
 
 CAPE SAN THOME. From Point Murubu to Cape San Thome, in lati- 
 tude 22 2' S., the coast is generally a low sandy beach, thickly covered 
 with brushwood, having here and there a stunted tree. The Morley bank 
 lies to the north-eastward of Cape San Thome ; it is a rocky bank, of an 
 oval form, and 4 leagues in diameter ; the general depth of water on it is 
 uncertain, but on one spot only three feet were found. There is a passage 
 between it and the land. 
 
 From the river Parahyla do Sul, on the parallel of 21 37', northward, 
 to latitude 21, the coast gradually heightens, and has several remarkable 
 hills inland; but in 21 the beach is not more than from 30 to 40 feet 
 above the level of the sea. In about 21 10' are three remarkable red 
 cliffs, close together, the largest being to the southward. In about 21 28', 
 at some distance inland, is a remarkable sugar-loaf bill, tapering to a fine 
 point or peak at the summit. 
 
 From the parallel of 21 to 21 10' the soundings are very irregular near 
 the shore, frequently altering 3 to 4 fathoms at one cast of the lead ; at six 
 miles from land 5, 7, 10, and 13 fathoms have been found. Hereabout the 
 great bank of soundings appears to be steep on the outside, deepening 
 suddenly from 26 fathoms to no ground at a depth of 100 fathoms. In afl 
 the space of 9 or 10 miles over these irregular soundings the bottom is of 
 rotten stone and coral, changing, on the outer edge, to coral and shells. 
 
 On approaching Cape San Thome the soundings are very regular, over 
 a sandy bottom, and on nearing the shoal the ground becomes finer ; a few 
 casts of mud may be found, but the bottom, generally, is of fine sand. The 
 eastern extremity of the shoals of San Thome, having 4| fathoms, appears 
 to bear from the cape between E. and S. E., 7 or 8 miles. H. M. Ship 
 Jaseur, Captain Martin, in November, 1825, crossed in the last-mentioned 
 depth, and a native sumach, about a mile and a half within, from that ship, 
 had 4 fathoms. The least water found upon this shoal was 3, 3^, and 4 
 fathoms. 
 
 In 4| fathoms, and close to the breakers of Cape San Thome, the current 
 has been found so very strong that a ship with difficulty got out again. In 
 3| fathoms, to the southward, the water was so much agitated, and the 
 current so strong over the breakers, that even a small vessel could not 
 attempt it without danger. A ship falling in with this part of the coast, 
 during the months of April, May, and June, may make toward the land in 
 safety, only taking care not to enter into less than 10 fathoms, when off 
 the cape, as it is probable that there wil! 4 be a current setting south- 
 eastward, at about two-thirds of a mile in the hour.* 
 
 * " On the 29th November, 1834, His Imperial Majesty's frigate ' Principe Imperial,' steering 
 S. W. by S., in the latitude of Cape San Thome, and longitude 40 30* W., sounded at 3 A. M., 
 in 32 fathoms ; at 3 h. 15 m., in nine ; and 3 h. 20 m., in six, and half five. The ship running 
 between five and six knots, a dark squally morning, with all sail set. No time was lost in 
 shortening sail, and the small-bower anchor cut adrift, when we found ourselves in half four,
 
 276 
 
 ST. ANNE'S BAY is formed between Cape San Thome and Cape 
 Busies, and is deep and spacious ; in rough weather the surf is violent, and 
 the broken water runs up a long inclined plane. Within the bay, at the 
 distance of 15 leagues from Cape San Thome, are three islets, named the 
 isles of St. Anne : these, seen from S. S. W. and N. N. E., appear united. 
 The southern isle is the highest, and the lowest is to the east. Between 
 them and the main channel is so safe that you may here repair any damage, 
 and careen the vessel, if required. The depth, to the southward of the 
 isles, at 4 or 5 miles from the land, is from 17 to 27 fathoms, oozy bottom. 
 Off the N. E. part of St. Anne's island are several barren rocks ; on the 
 N. W. side of the isles is anchorage, in 7 and 8 fathoms, well sheltered 
 from Easterly and S. E. winds, but exposed to the S. W. and N. E., but 
 with the latter there is seldom much swell. The proper route to this 
 anchorage is by the S. W., through a clear passage, with 10 and 12 
 fathoms close to the islets, near which is the deepest water. 
 
 To the southward of St. Anne's bay the shore is covered with shingles, 
 and when it meets the high rocks beyond the river Una, in the S. W. part 
 of the bay, the shore is bold, stretches to the eastward, and forms the point 
 of Busios. Armacao, or Armazem, is the small secure bay near the mouth 
 of the Una ; it affords refuge to vessels baffled in their attempts to double 
 the cape, and when the wind blows hard from the east. The entrance is 
 between two small rocky islands, called the Beautiful and the Ugly ; the 
 anchorage lies south-east of the entrance. The morro of St. loso is a 
 conspicuous mark for the bay of St. Anne. Its situation is latitude 22 
 32' 26" S., longitude 41 59' W. 
 
 From off the north end of the largest isle of St. Anne a sand-bank 
 stretches to the S. W. and W. N. W., with 3 to 5 fathoms over it, the 
 greatest depth being at above half-way across the passage toward the 
 main. This, therefore, impedes the passage from the N. E., but the ship 
 may beat out of the S. W. channel. Large vessels, attempting the latter, 
 should carefully keep the S. W. end of the larger island to the Eastward 
 of S. E., because the water shoalens suddenly on the S. W. side of the bank, 
 and likewise toward a sandy beach on the larger island. The soundings 
 are regular about St. Anne's isles, excepting on the bank which extends 
 westerly from the north end of the larger island. This bank is steep-to on 
 both sides, the water suddenly shoaling from 7 to 4 and 3 fathoms, bottom 
 of mud, but, on the outside of the islands, sand only. 
 
 From the anchorage, in 7 fathoms, at three-quarters of a mile from the 
 sandy beach on the large island, the bearings are the S. "W. point of the 
 large island South ; the northern part of the same, E. | S. ; the outer point 
 of the S. TV. island, N. N. E. ; and the islet Ferro, at the entrance of 
 Macahe river, N. W. by W. ^ W. Large ships should bring up farther 
 to the southward, keeping the S. W. point of the large isle about S. E., 
 one mile, where there will be found 7 or 8 fathoms, at a sufficient distance 
 from the shoal. There can be no difficulty in gaining the anchorage at any 
 time, only recollecting that the passage to it, from the N. E., is hardly of 
 sufficient depth for large vessels. 
 
 the frigate drawing 22 feet, and a heavy swell on at the time. At daybreak the shoals of San 
 Thome, breaking very high, bore W. by S., distant one mile. At this time it cleared away, 
 and we could see nearly 30 miles from the mast-head, but no land was to be seen. 
 
 " The following day we had excellent sights for the chronometers, near Cape Frio ; conse- 
 quently there is no doubt that these shoals extend upwards of 30 miles off. 
 
 " On the ship running out E. by N., at the rate of two knots, for three hours, we found the 
 soundings very irregular, from 5 to 7 and 8 fathoms, and then lessening to 5 and 4, sand ; 
 and we got soundings off the shoals in 26 fathoms, having run off at least 20 miles." Nautical 
 Magazine for 1835, page 193.
 
 277 
 
 SAN JOAO DE MACAHE. The mouth of the river Macahe bears N. TV. hy 
 "VV. ^ W. from the largest St. Anne's isle, with the islet Ferro off the 
 entrance, a barren rock, with some bushes upon it. There are two or three 
 rocks at or about three-quarters of a mile from the islet, over which the 
 sea breaks, but there is a passage on either side. The village of Macahe is 
 situated between the northern bank of the river and the sea beach. Its 
 harbour is not more than seventy yards broad at the entrance, and is unfit 
 for vessels of more than 200 tons. If the flag be hoisted, it is a signal that 
 the entrance is safe. In going in a vessel must steer close to the south side 
 of the rock, and, when she comes abreast of it, should let go her anchor, 
 with about 15 fathoms of cable ; if she overshoot this berth she must put 
 the helm hard a starboard, and run between the southern point, where 
 there is a channel eight feet deep and two miles long, with remarkable 
 clear water. A little to the south of the harbour, and close to the shore, 
 lies a ledge of rocks, which must be carefully avoided. 
 
 The morro of San Joao, or S. Joam, lies in latitude 22 32' S., longitude 
 41 59' W., and may readily be known by its insularity on the coast, and 
 its distance from the chain beyond it in the interior. N. ^ W. from this 
 morro, distant 20 miles, is seen another hill, very high, surmounted with a 
 peak, and remarkable for its leaning towards the north : this is called the 
 Frade of Macahe ; it stands in latitude 22 12' 2" S. 
 
 ANCORAS, OR ANCHOR ISLES. These islands lie S. by W., distant 21 
 miles from St. Anne's isles, and consist of two islets and a large white rock 
 lying to the southward of the inner one, connected to it by a reef. The 
 outer islet is 5 miles E. by S. from Cape Busios, and between the isles is a 
 channel of 23 fathoms ; the easternmost island resembles a cardinal's hat. 
 Small vessels may pass between these islets and the land, and it is said by 
 the pilots that the depth of water, in the passage, may allow vessels of 
 every class to pass through. To the northward of Point Busios is Branca, 
 or White isle ; then follows a beach of sand, which ends at the morro of 
 St. Joao, or Joam, with two or three small rivers, and the islet do Ferro, a 
 barren rock with some bushes upon it, as before described. 
 
 Between Cape Busios and the isle Frio is PAPAGAYOS OR PARROTS' BAY ; 
 the bearing and distance between its extreme points are S. S. W., 14 
 miles. A great portion of the bay is occupied by a group of islets and 
 rocks, which do not appear to have been accurately surveyed. About six 
 miles to the northward of the isle Frio, and at the north end of a low sandy 
 beach, are a small fort and flag-staff, on the south side of the entrance of a 
 little river which falls down from the village of Papagayos. 
 
 CAPE FRIO is a high and rugged promontory, the south-western ex- 
 tremity of an isle bearing the same name, which forms, on its N. W. side, 
 a convenient harbour. FRIO ISLAND is nearly three miles in length from 
 N. E. to S. W., and one mile in breadth : this island may be seen, in clear 
 weather, at fifteen leagues off. When bearing from the east or the west it 
 presents two mountains, the southern is the smallest both in height and 
 breadth. On a N. N. E. and S. S. W. bearing these mountains seem to 
 form one mass, with a double summit like two small points ; at the same 
 time will be seen a little conical islet, at one or two cables' length to the 
 E. S. E. of the cape. 
 
 By an official notice, dated " Rio Janeiro, 28th of July, 1836," it appears 
 that from the night of the 12th of that month a lighthouse, called that of 
 Cape Frio, would show a light, interrupted every two minutes by an eclipse 
 of equal duration, instead of an ordinary fixed light, which had been pre- 
 viously exhibited: this light is visible, in very clear weather, at the 
 distance of 41 miles.
 
 278 
 
 PORT FRIO. This harbour is commodious, and secure against all 
 winds, excepting N. E., but even with the latter you may be sheltered by 
 the little isle Dos Porcos, which lies on the north side of the entrance. 
 Port Frio is more than a mile in extent each way, and its depths are from 
 19 to 4 fathoms, but in the centre 12 to 16 fathoms. Its great entrance is 
 at the east end, on the south side of an elevated islet, called Ilha dos 
 Porcos ; this entrance is about two-thirds of a mile wide, and its depths 
 are 25 to 15 fathoms, bottom of fine sand and mud ; the entrance from the 
 S. W. is very narrow, but has a depth of JO and 12 fathoms, and there 
 is anchorage almost immediately within it for large vessels, in 7 to 10 
 fathoms; farther in is a bar, on the shoalest part of which are only 10 and 
 11 feet, so that this passage is only fit for small vessels. A small fort, 
 with four guns, stands on a rocky point between two sandy coves, on the 
 N. W. side of the harbour, and which entirely commands the principal 
 entrance to the anchorage. A little within this fort is a village, occupied 
 mostly by fishermen. Water may be had from wells in the coves on the 
 North and N. W., as well as on the island, near its west end, where huts 
 may be seen. The tide flows here, on full and change days, until 9 h. ; 
 and its vertical rise is about 4^ feet. 
 
 CAPE FRIO TO RIO JANEIRO. 
 
 CAPE FRIO, in latitude 23 1' 18" S.,and longitude 41 57' 30" W., is the most 
 remarkable head-land, as well as the most important land-fall, on all this 
 part of the coast, from off this cape to the Sugar-loaf. On the west side 
 of the entrance to Rio Janeiro the course, by compass, is nearly west, and 
 the distance 21 leagues. The land between is low and sandy; but, at a dis- 
 tance from the beach, it rises to a series of elevated and uneven mountains. 
 
 Vessels bound to Rio Janeiro, when approaching Cape Frio by night, 
 with the wind Easterly or S. E., must be cautious not to run t the north- 
 ward of the cape, such mistakes having proved fatal to many ships : this, 
 however, can never happen while the light on the summit of the island is 
 visible. A considerable swell sets in with E. N. E. winds, which are most 
 prevalent. 
 
 CAPE NEGRO lies to the west of Cape Frio, distant 12 leagues; it is 
 covered with a dark verdure, and may be readily known ; being steep-to, 
 it may be approached with safety. Within three miles of it the depths are 
 from 18 to 27 fathoms, bottom of soft ooze. Two islets, called the 
 MARICAS, lie at the distance of 13 miles S. 79 W. from Cape Negro, 
 and 38 miles West from Cape Frio, at 3 miles from the coast ; they are of 
 moderate height, steep-to on the south side, and may be approached safely. 
 If, on the approach of night, or under particular circumstances, a vessel 
 cannot reach the entrance of Rio, she may advance to and anchor here. 
 Off the western side of the islets H. M. S. Jaseur, Captain Martin, 
 anchored in 17 fathoms, coarse sand and mud, with the rock off the 
 southern island bearing S. E. ; the passage between the isles, E. S. E. ; 
 the northern end of the isles, E. N. E. ^'E., and in a line with Cape 
 Negro. Between the islands and the main are 13, 12, 11, and 10 fathoms, 
 close up to the beach. 
 
 As this place is sheltered from the S. E. round by the North to W. N. W. 
 and more West, with a fine sandy bottom, it may be considered as safe, 
 when the wind is to the northward and eastward, or to the northward and 
 westward. On the eastern side of the isles the sea commonly breaks with
 
 1 
 *> 
 
 X 279 -# 
 
 great violence, so that landing there is very difficult ; the best place is near 
 the N. "W. end of the larger isle. In a small sandy bay, on the low part 
 of this isle, is a well with good water, but it cannot be obtained without 
 trouble in getting it off. 
 
 RIO JANEIRO. The mouth of the harbour of Rio Janeiro lies 
 between two islets, Paya and Maya, to the east of it, and a bold point, 
 surmounted by the Gavia, a remarkable mountain on the west. In front 
 of it are the islets Redonda and Raza, within and westward of which are 
 several other islets. From Paya to Gavia the bearing and distance are about 
 W. f S., 11 miles. 
 
 The islet Raza is low, and appears from the east like a slipper, with 
 the sloping side northward. It is now distinguished by a lighthouse, which 
 was first lighted on the 31st of July, 1829. The light is so elevated as to 
 be seen nearly ten leagues off; it makes a revolution in every 3 minutes, 
 and presents, alternately, a brilliant and a red light. Its situation is in 
 latitude 23 3' 30" S., and longitude 43 4' 45" W. At two miles "W. by S. 
 from Raza is another isle, more elevated, appearing like a haycock, and 
 called Redonda, or Round island. 
 
 These isles are very useful marks to vessels bound to the harbour, for a 
 vessel bound to Rio Janeiro, should, after rounding Cape Frio, steer due 
 west, keeping about three leagues from the coast, until she makes Redonda, 
 and which will be descried before Raza can be seen, although the latter 
 lies two miles more to the eastward. Currents, at times, set along the 
 coast, either east or west, according to the winds. 
 
 The mountain La Gavia is situate about three leagues W. by S. from the 
 entrance of Rio ; its top appears to be flat, and rather larger at its summit 
 than a little way below, which gives it the appearance of a ship's top : 
 hence it cannot be mistaken for any other mountain, and it is the best 
 object for distinguishing this coast ; it is seen from all points of the offing 
 between the East and S. S. "W. At about N. E. by E. from the Gavia, 
 distant 8 miles, is the Pao de Acucar, or the Sugar-loaf, a conical mountain 
 of rock, OB the western side of the entrance to Rio Janeiro. This rock 
 has been generally considered as the beacon which serves to mark that 
 entrance, but, it being much lower than the Gavia, it is not seen at so great 
 a distance. 
 
 It is prudent, in general, to keep at some distance from the coast which 
 connects Rio Janeiro with Cape Frio, because, when the wind blows from 
 S. \V. to E. S. E. by the South, the swell is incessant, and in rough weather 
 it renders the anchorage very unsafe. You should not approach the islands, 
 situate at the entrance of Rio, until the sea-breeze is well set in, and then 
 you must manage to reach an anchorage before night. Without this 
 precaution you will be exposed, by stopping among the islands, or at 
 the entrance, during the calm which intervenes between the sea and 
 land breezes, or encounter the latter, which directly opposes the entry, 
 and is very often accompanied by gusts of wind, which are sometimes 
 violent, more especially at the full and change of the moon. 
 
 If, notwithstanding all precautions, the land-breeze should set in before 
 you have entered the harbour., and your vessel sails badly, or if the current, 
 which almost always sets outward, will not allow you to reach the inside 
 of the bay by tacking, it will then be more advantageous to remain outside 
 of the islands than to anchor among them. The space for tacking is very 
 limited, especially during the night ; the ground is hard, and the swell of 
 the sea is the stronger and more troublesome the nearer you are to the 
 entrance. The strongest gusts of wind from the land-breezes seldom extend 
 farther out than to Redonda, or Round island.
 
 280 
 
 On ENTERING and LEAVING the HARBOUR. The passage- 
 generally preferred, on entering and leaving the harbour, is that between 
 the isles Paya and Raza. In the channel between are from 21 to 11 
 fathoms, bottom of grey sand. Should you enter at a mile to the west of 
 Raza, or midway between Raza and Redonda, you will have the western 
 point of Paya nearly N. E., and a direct course thence N. ^ E., 7 5 miles, 
 will carry you to the west of the fortress of Santa Cruz, which stands on 
 the eastern side of the entrance. On this track you leave, at a distance to 
 the west, several islets and rocks lying to the N. by "W. of Redonda, and 
 pass about half a mile to the east of the islet Catandula, or Touchinos, 
 lying near a mile to the south of the Sugar-loaf. In this route the soundings 
 decrease gradually from 24 to 7 fathoms, bottom of fine grey and white 
 sand, stiff ground. There is no danger, and nothing to avoid but what 
 may be seen. 
 
 At the entrance of Rio the least depth of water is 65 fathoms ; having 
 passed this the depths increase rapidly ; in one cast of the lead you may 
 have from 11 to 14 fathoms, very near the battery of Santa Cruz. You 
 may safely approach still nearer to the opposite side, but the first direction 
 is the most followed, it having the treble advantage of leading a vessel 
 near to the fortress, of answering the signals made therein, and of keeping 
 clear of the little isle Legea, with its fort, on the opposite side of the channel. 
 Thus, also, you will avoid the effect of current, which sometimes runs to 
 the N. W. when the tide is rising. The passage between the fort of Santa 
 Cruz and that of Legea is the only one frequented ; that between the latter 
 and Point S. Joao is never used, not from want of depth, but because it is 
 narrower, and exposed to shifting winds from about the Sugar-loaf and 
 other high lands. Here, also, the current is irregular, and the ground 
 rocky. 
 
 From about three cables' length off from fort Santa Cruz, the direct 
 course to the anchorage for ships of war is N. 32 W. (N. 35 "W. true) 
 until you are E. N. E. of the fort of Vilganhon, which you pass safely at 
 the distance of three cables. From this spot you will steer for the Ilha dos 
 Ratos, or Rat island, and having now arrived before the city, you may 
 choose your anchorage in from 19 to 10 fathoms, bottom of mud; only 
 observing not to bring the Sugar-loaf to the westward of fort Vilganhon. 
 The best place for ships of war is to the E. N. E. of the palace, to the 
 south of an imaginary line from Rat island to the principal church of the 
 city, in from 14 to 18 fathoms; here you will avoid a small rocky bank, 
 lying at 2 cables E. N. E. of Rat island. The anchorage for merchant 
 ships is to the N. E. and adjoining to the city, the larger ones arrive at it 
 by passing the isle Cobras, (the fortified island to the west of Rat island) 
 and are separated from the Men-of-war road by a shoal bank, on which 
 the sea breaks, at low water, spring tides, when the winds from the offing 
 are violent. 
 
 Vessels commonly moor north and south, in the bay of Rio Janeiro ; but 
 it seems preferable to moor N. E. and S. AV r . : this direction, being nearly 
 that of the flood and ebb, renders it easy to lay the vessel athwart the land 
 and sea-breezes, which are almost the only predominant winds. This will, 
 in summer, be found necessary, for at that seasdn the heat is, at times, 
 almost insupportable. A hawser, carried alternately from one buoy to the 
 other, according to the wind, will gain this advantage ; the flood-anchor to 
 be on the larboard, and that of the ebb on the starboard side. 
 
 The tides are not regular, or of equal duration, as the ebb generally runs 
 much longer than the flood, more especially after heavy rains ; the ordinary 
 velocity of each rarely exceeds seven-tenths of a mile in the hour, but, at
 
 281 
 
 times it may run at the rate of a mile and three-tenths, principally during 
 the ebb. The time of high water on the days of full and change is at three 
 quarters past two, and the vertical rise 4^ feet, neaps only 3 feet. 
 
 On LEAVING the ROAD of Rio Janeiro the most simple precautions only 
 are required ; it will be sufficient merely to attend to the land-breeze and 
 the ebb-tide, allowing them to carry you along ; even the ebbing is not es- 
 sential if the breeze has that strength which it usually acquires during 
 certain hours daily. 
 
 To be better prepared for getting under-way, vessels frequently, on the 
 evening before their departure, get on the side of the bay which faces the 
 town, by which they avoid any obstruction in the Road, properly so 
 called ; and some take advantage of the strength of the land-breeze, but 
 this is not really necessary, for a vessel may easily set out from any part of 
 the usual anchorage. 
 
 The route for going out is the same as that for entering : passing at three 
 cables' length to the east of the isle Vilganhon, and at the same distance 
 on the same side of Fort Lagea, and ranging within hail of the fortress of 
 Santa Cruz, taking care, in this tract, to keep over to the eastern side rather 
 than the other : these are the only requisite precautions. 
 
 As you generally weigh anchor in the morning, it is probable that you 
 will have the advantage of the land-breeze at least four hours : this will 
 enable you to pass all the isles in the bay, and having arrived here you may 
 tack according to circumstances. Should you experience a calm, between 
 the land and sea breezes, before you get without the islands, it will be 
 proper to anchor, choosing a favourable position, so as to get under-way 
 again with the first breeze that ensues. 
 
 Captain Hewett gives the following directions for the harbour of Rio 
 Janeiro : " The immediate entrance of the harbour of Rio is known by 
 two lofty peaks, one on either side ; the western resembles a sugar-loaf; it 
 bears that name, and differs from every other on the coast (for there are 
 many) by the inclination of its summit to the westward. 
 
 " If night be too far advanced a preference ought to be given to remain- 
 ing under-way, rather than to anchoring without the harbour, the ground 
 being rocky, and much exposed to a heavy rolling swell, which increases 
 as it approaches the bar, the shoalest water on which is but 65 fathoms. 
 The certainty of the sea-breeze before noon of the following day, and the 
 tempestuous and general violence of the land-breeze, accompanied by 
 heavy rain, &c., particularly at the full and change of the moon, render 
 necessary the precaution of standing off and on, from and to Round island, 
 for to it the violence of squalls seldom extends. 
 
 "The FLOOD-TIDE in the HARBOUR is of shorter duration, and of less 
 force than the ebb, against which and a strong land-breeze our ship, the 
 Inconstant, turned in, to the astonishment of the Portuguese; an effort 
 never before attempted. After violent rains the rise of the water in the 
 fiarbour has very little influence over the ebb-tide, except diminishing its 
 strength. The ebb has been known to run a whole day without inter- 
 mission ; the current strongest on the western side, but an eddy flood will 
 sometimes be visible on the eastern side, when the water is discovered to 
 rise. 
 
 " The ENTRANCE of the HARBOUR, between the forts SANTA CRUZ and 
 ST. JOAO is, in breadth, three-quarters of a mile. The passage between 
 St. Joao and Legea or Square island, situated immediately in the entrance, 
 should never be attempted, although the greatest depth of water is to be 
 found there ; the narrowness of the channel, the likelihood of the wind's 
 becoming variable under the Sugar-loaf, the irregularity of the tide, with 
 
 N N
 
 282 
 
 the rockiness of the bottom, if compelled to anchor, render it dangerous, if 
 not impracticable. The true channel is on the eastern sic ~f Legea island, 
 to abreast of which, from the bar, the water gradually deepe t .~ ^or" 65 to 
 21 fathoms; and when a little past it, the ship's head being N. N. W., 
 soundings are lost for a short time, with the common hand-line. 
 
 "Leaving the Fort do Vilganhon, (also on an island) on the left hand, 
 the best anchorage is obtained for vessels of war, abreast the city, with the 
 flagstaff of Vilganhon just open to the westward of the Sugar-loaf; by 
 taking this precaution a small bank, very dangerous for cables, will be 
 avoided. This bank is situated about 2| cables' length from Ilha dos Ratos, 
 or Rats' island, in an E. N. E. direction; it is circular, about a cable's 
 length in diameter, and very rocky ; the mark for 4| fathoms, which is 
 the shoalest water, is Ilha dos Ratos and the great church in one, and 
 Vilganhon flagstaff on with Theodosia battery, on Point S. Joao ; so that 
 its vicinity to Ilha dos Ratos renders precaution necessary in mooring. 
 The best bower, with a good cable, should be laid down to the westward, 
 in order to preserve an open hawse to the entrance ; a stream-cable bent 
 on to the small bower-anchor, and taken in at the stern-port, will preserve 
 a free circulation, both from the land and sea-breezes, and the ship's head 
 will thus be directed to the only points of the compass from which the 
 wind can be expected to blow fresh, and which are from N. N. "W. to 
 S.W. 
 
 " MERCHANTS' ROAD. A bar of sand, with some rocks, extend opposite 
 to the city, the outer edge nearly in a direct line from Vilganhon to Ilha 
 dos Ratos, and ending at the N. E. point, Ilha dos Cobras : this bar is 
 passable for boats only, but within it all merchant-vessels, that there is 
 room for, discharge and take in their cargoes ; the only passage to it is 
 around the north end of Cobras, near which are the arsenal and Brazilian 
 vessels of war." 
 
 Another officer says " In entering the harbour take care to pass within 
 hail of Fort Santa Cruz, in order to answer any questions that may be 
 asked. There is plenty of water close to the rocks. Then proceed up to 
 Fort do Vilganhon, below or opposite to which, bring-to, or come to an- 
 chor, and allow no boats to come alongside but those of the government, 
 until you have received pratique when you will be permitted to proceed 
 higher up the harbour, round the east end of the Isle Cobras, to the place 
 of anchorage for merchant-ships. 
 
 " There are no pilots to be met with off the coast or harbour, for, as 
 there is no hidden danger, they are not requisite. Whilst the sea-breeze 
 is strong enough to enable ships to overcome the ebb, they may safely en- 
 ter by night or by day ; but on entering at night the fort Santa Cruz 
 makes a signal to the city, which is not to be understood as interfering 
 with the vessels entering. 
 
 . " The port regulations require all vessels to bring-to a little below Fort 
 do Vilganhon ; and any one attempting to pass, before she has been visited, 
 will be fired at, and the commander liable to imprisonment, besides paying 
 a fine for each gun so fired. 
 
 " Besides the lighthouse erected on the Isle Raza, a small light is put up 
 every night in the fort of Santa Cruz. It has been noticed that the time 
 of high-water is at 2 h. 30 m. p. ra., but it seems very uncertain." 
 
 The PORT REGULATIONS of Rio Janeiro, in 1825, were as follow: 
 " When a vessel arrives a military guard is put on board, the different govern- 
 ment boats visit, and the custom-house boat calls alongside, to know whether 
 the vessel is bound to Rio, or has only put in for supplies. If bound for Rio 
 a strict search is made in the cabin and forecastle, and all parcels found are
 
 283 
 
 carried to the custom-house, whence they may be taken, after paying the 
 duty. The hold is then sealed up, and the captain allowed to go on 
 shore to enter, having previously sworn to his manifest or cargo-book, and 
 signed a declaration in Portuguese, of his detention. If his manifest clears 
 the vessel for Rio, she must be entered in full, and pay duty on ~* r car- 
 go ; if for any other part, a time is allowed her to get supplies, and her 
 hatches are not sealed. If she has a cargo to land she is sealed, and enters 
 in franquia, which allows the privilege of landing and selling part of her 
 cargo, only paying duty on the part landed. 
 
 " If, by any mistake in the interpreter, the captain declares, in the declara- 
 tion in Portuguese, that he is bound for Rio, although his manifest may 
 show that his vessel is bound to another port, there is difficulty in getting 
 entered in franquia. Vessels are allowed but one discharge a day, and 
 often are prevented from discharging, by want of room in the custom-house, 
 or want of guards to attend to the discharge. After a lighter is loaded the 
 hatches are immediately sealed, unless permission is previously given to 
 the officers to remain, to allow the cargo on board to be stowed, and the 
 vessel's hold to be put in order ; for such courtesy a fee is exacted, which, 
 if not given, much trouble and inconvenience may arise, as they are ar- 
 bitrary in their office, and no redress can be had by complaining, the word 
 of the lowest guard having more faith given to it than that of the most 
 respectable shipmaster. Three officers are sent on board to attend to every 
 discharge, and if one of them fails in appearing no discharge is allowed. 
 
 " Vessels cannot begin to discharge before daybreak, and the captain is 
 bound to send his boat in time to take off the officers from the shore, or 
 furnish another for that purpose. The expense of the guards, at each dis- 
 charge, is about 4 dollars 80 cents, that is the customary fee to secure their 
 civility a practice of long standing, though pretended to be denounced by 
 the judge or chief of the custom-house, and which merchants cannot avoid 
 paying, without exposing themselves and their business to difficulty and 
 inconvenience. All lighters, with merchandise, must be at the custom- 
 house by seven or eight o'clock in the morning ; and, as vessels lie off in 
 the bay, small discharges only can be made at a time. Vessels loaded 
 with dry goods are often delayed from ten to fourteen days between 
 each discharge, without an opportunity of discharging or waiting in their 
 turn. 
 
 " Goods, although manifested, if found in the forecastle, or anywhere out 
 of the hold, or not under seal, are liable, by the regulations, to seizure." 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR Rio JANEIRO, for vessels approaching from the south- 
 ward, by the BARON ROUSSIN. " The approach to Rio Janeiro is generally, 
 as we have shown, by Cape Frio, which is admitted to be correct during 
 the northerly monsoon, and when advancing from the northward or east- 
 ward ; but, under other circumstances, it will be disadvantageous, by 
 losing time and prolonging the voyage. 
 
 " For vessels from the southward, and during the southern monsoon, the 
 Ilka Grande, the Morro of Marambaya, and above all the Gavia, in the 
 west, are the best objects of recognisance, as all these may be seen at a 
 sufficient distance to serve as a guidance on the route, and an estimate of 
 the distance to the anchorage. 
 
 " On advancing, another good indication is the peculiar figure of the 
 land, between the Gavia and Sugar-loaf. When coming in from the offing, 
 between the E. S. E. and S. W., their configuration of their summits 
 presents, in a very remarkable manner, the figure of a man lying on his 
 back from W. S. W. to E. N. E. ; whereof the Gavia forms the head, and 
 the Sugar-loaf the feet. When the tops of these mountains are free
 
 284 
 
 from clouds or mists, it is almost impossible not to be struck with this 
 appearance. 
 
 " The Gavia, as already noticed, is situated at about three leagues W. by S. 
 from the entrance to" Rio Janeiro. Its summit appears flat and rather 
 larger than the surface below it, and which gives it the appearance of a 
 ship's top. This mountain and the Sugar-loaf, at 8 miles to the eastward 
 of it, is described elsewhere. 
 
 " On approaching Rio Janeiro, from the southward, soundings may be 
 obtained at a considerable distance from the land, but at a great depth. 
 At 10 to 15 leagues off they vary from 60 to 80 fathoms, and diminish 
 gradually to the coast ; the bottom is a mixture of sand, gravel, broken 
 shells, rocks, and ooze or mud." 
 
 NAUTICAL AND COMMERCIAL OBSERVATIONS ON Rio DE JANEIRO, l>y the 
 Commander of a British merchant ship. " Running down towards Cape 
 Frio, it is advisable to keep about 10 miles to the southward of its parallel, 
 in order to prevent getting into the bay to the northward of that Cape ; and, 
 at night, no one must trust to see the light, at any distance, it being placed 
 so high as, generally, to be enveloped in the thick fog, or haze, which hangs 
 over the high land, particularly in summer. I made the land off Cape Frio, 
 in the night, running in with the lead going. . "We struck soundings, and saw 
 the land long before the light, and it was only when very close that it 
 could be discerned twinkling through the haze; even when seen it was very 
 much doubted whether, or not, it was a star. Many have made the same 
 remark respecting the light, and it has been represented to the authorities. 
 It is rather surprising, therefore, that they have not altered its position ; 
 the expense of removal, however, and the cost of re-erection are, I presume, 
 serious obstacles with a poor government. 
 
 " Approaching the entrance of the harbour of Rio Janeiro no difficulty 
 is met with, in ascertaining the vessels position, from the very conspicuous 
 land in the neighbourhood of the harbour. The Sugar-loaf hill, on the left 
 hand side of the entrance, forms the most conspicuous object, and renders 
 the approach easy, and without danger. The regular winds in the harbour, 
 and for several miles outside, are. a land and sea breeze; the former giving 
 place to the latter, at from 9 to 11 A. M., after this time, therefore, there is 
 generally a fair wind for entering. After passing the Paya and Maya 
 islands, in the entrance, two forts will be seen, one on the starboard hand 
 in entering, called Santa Cruz, the other called Fort Sagea, situated on a 
 small island almost immediately opposite. Passing between these two 
 forts, the harbour regulations require the vessel to be carried within hail 
 of Santa Cruz, in order that the master may, in passing, give the name 
 of the vessel, the port from whence she came, and the number of days 
 passage. 
 
 " These questions being answered, and passing on upwards toward forl 
 Vilganhon, situated about half-way between the entrance and the city, and 
 on the larboard hand, it is necessary to shorten sail in time, as the vessel 
 must be anchored previous to coming abreast of the fort, otherwise guns 
 will be fired, for each of which the offenders must pay. While anchored 
 here the vessel will be visited by two boats, one from the fort, the other 
 from the custom-house, which visit being passed the master may proceed 
 with the vessel to the customary anchorage, above the island of Cobras, 
 (which is easily recognised, on the larboard hand, from the plan on the 
 chart) and then anchor amongst the vessels as soon as possible, and with a 
 short scope of cable, the holding ground being good, and no risk of driving. 
 If the vessel has a stream-chain she will be quite safely moored with one 
 bower and the stream-anchor, which is easily weighed.
 
 285 
 
 " There are two ways of discharging cargoes in Rio Janeiro ; one by 
 putting the vessel on a list at the custom-house for her turn at the wharf, 
 and the other by discharging in lighters, the vessel paying the lighterage. 
 As regards dispatch, from all I could see, the former plan is the best, 
 although far from good. Generally speaking a vessel lies in the harbour 10 
 days previous to being in turn ; she may then be hauled alongside a small 
 jetty at the custom-house stores, inside the island of Cobras, and, during 
 fine weather, discharge cargo, being allowed to work, on an average, four 
 hours every day. Only three vessels can discharge at the same time, the 
 jetty only allowing this number to lay alongside. The vessel is moored 
 here with one bower on the stream, the stream anchor on the off side 
 quarter, and two on-shore warps ; hauling off every day, after discharge, 
 about 10 yards, and hauling in on the morning to within 3 or 4 feet of the 
 wharf. 
 
 " No custom-house officer remains on board the vessel, neither are any 
 places on board sealed up. A strict watch is, however, kept from several 
 guard-vessels and boats, which latter are constantly rowing about. The 
 shore is also well watched, and the master must be particularly careful, as 
 the fines, imposed for contravention of the custom-laws, are enforced, and 
 the property confiscated. While the vessel has inward cargo on board, 
 and until she has discharged and cleared, no person, not belonging to the 
 vessel, can come on board without a written order from the custom-house ; 
 neither can any trifling article be removed from the vessel, even for repairs, 
 without a permit. A permit is also required for every thing taken on 
 board, I knew a chart to be seized, which a master was carrying openly 
 on board his vessel, after having purchased it on shore. 
 
 " It generally occupies from 14 to 21 days to discharge a vessel of about 
 300 tons, after she is at the wharf, and when the cargo consists of bales 
 and ca^ps of manufactured goods. I have never, in any part of the world, 
 seen a worse regulated custom-house than that at Rio Janeiro ; every 
 possible inconvenience must be submitted to by the shipmaster. He him- 
 self should carefully superintend the discharge, and the mate should be 
 most particular in his account, comparing every day, when the discharge is 
 finished, with the landing officer's accoxmt. Bales and cases are often said 
 to be missing, although landed ; when in the stores, even the merchant 
 often cannot find his goods for months, and, in some instances, never 
 succeeds in meeting with them. Peculation and robbery are openly 
 carried on by men in the custom-house department. I brought forward 
 evidence to prove that two bales were broken open, and part of the con- 
 tents abstracted, by the marker of the goods himself, on the wharf; yet the 
 party continued in his employment, his superiors evidently being cognizant 
 of the robbery, and participators, no doubt, in the proceeds. 
 
 " The shipmaster, previous to leaving England, should not receive coals, 
 iron, or lead, as ballast, if he can avoid it; they are not allowed to be 
 discharged at the wharf, and cause infinite trouble in removing the vessel, 
 &c. Iron, particularly, actually costs more to the vessel to land it than 
 the freight amounts to ; an officer must be got and paid, lighters must be 
 hired, and the iron carried through the surf on the beach, then comes the 
 receiver declaring it damaged, &c. Crates and bale goods are the best 
 cargo for dispatch ; coals as a whole cargo are easily landed, the vessel 
 proceeding at once to a wharf, and discharging from 25 to 30 tons 
 per day. 
 
 " It is very seldom that return cargoes to Europe can now be procured 
 in Rio Janeiro, even in the coffee season, that commodity is generally 
 shipped in foreign vessels, at low freights ; their low, prime cost, and
 
 286 
 
 lessened expenses enabling them to carry cargoes at less freight. Every 
 vessel ought, therefore, to have as much ballast on board, in England, as 
 the broker will allow, or the cargo permit, as it is an expensive item in the 
 vessel's account in Rio. Altogether this is a very expensive place for a 
 vessel discharging a cargo : the anchorage alone amounts to 30 reis per 
 ton, per day, for 50 days. If the vessel remains longer than 50 days there 
 is no further payment ; but if she be cleared, at the custom-house, previous 
 to the 50 days, and afterwards detained by foul winds, or other unavoidable 
 circumstances, the additional anchorage must be paid up to the moment of 
 sailing, before the vessel can pass the forts. It is also said that this tonnage 
 duty is about to be increased. For the calculation of this tonnage duty, 
 every vessel is measured by an officer of customs, according to some rules 
 which must be peculiar to Rio Janeiro, and suitable to the impoverished 
 state of the finances ; as measured by it, the vessel is always made to be a 
 greater number of tons measurement than she can carry tons of dead 
 weight. Another charge, most unjust in its principle, and illiberal in its 
 adjustment, is a duty charged on all provisions on board the vessel, such as 
 beef, pork, flour, bread, &c., beyond a small quantity allowed the crew, 
 according to a scale calculated at a certain number of days from Rio Janeiro 
 to the port for which she clears at the custom-house. The quantity 
 allowed to each man is almost too little to keep him in existence ; neither 
 is any allowance made for a residence in the port of destination, or the 
 homeward passage to England. Moreover, I decidedly deny the right of 
 any foreign power to charge a duty on provisions purchased in England, 
 and actually necessary for the supply of a vessel's crew, during her intended 
 voyage, wherever that may be ; and particularly so long as there is no tra- 
 ding, or intention to trade with them, in Rio Janeiro. I cannot conceive for 
 what purpose a British consul and minister are retained at the Brazilian 
 court, if not partly to protect British interests ; yet this iniquitous over- 
 charge on British vessels has been represented to them times out of number, 
 and still is allowed to exist. I would advise every shipmaster to pay this 
 overcharge under protest, lodging that protest with the consul, and I trust 
 that this representation of the injustice of the charge will meet the eye of 
 some one who has time and opportunity to obtain redress. Altogether 
 the charges are high, and the detention great, in Rio Janeiro, and every 
 one will do well to take these matters into consideration when chartering 
 a vessel for that port. 
 
 " In chartering vessels for Rio Janeiro the brokers generally insert in 
 the charter-party, that the vessel must be consigned to their agent, and 
 pay the customary commission. I would recommend every one to erase 
 both these clauses, previous to signing any charter-party, as they are 
 unjust in their principle, and prejudicial to the vessel's interest, although 
 the British merchants, in Rio Janeiro, are generally highly respectable ; 
 still when they are perfectly secure of consignments, the vessel's interests 
 are not so well attended to. They always charge a commission on the 
 whole amount of freight inwards, although the greater part of the sum is 
 invariably paid in England, and never passes through their hands at all. 
 This is a manifest overcharge, the only commissions they can in justice 
 demand being on the amount of disbursements, and also the amount of 
 freight payable in Rio Janeiro. 
 
 " Vessels calling for refreshments only, and not discharging cargo, are 
 allowed to enter the harbour without paying port charges ; and from the 
 extent of the market, and the facility of filling water from tank-boats, I 
 consider Rio Janeiro decidedly preferable to any port on the coast. 
 
 " No description of the beauties of the scenery, in the harbour of Rio
 
 287 
 
 Janeiro, and its vicinity, has, in my opinion, done justice to their merits. 
 In fact, I cannot think any description can convey an adequate idea of this 
 splendid country ; I have visited several parts of the world, and seen many 
 specimens of romantic scenery, but none have at all come up to the neigh- 
 bourhood of Rio Janeiro. Every visitor will be much gratified in viewing 
 it, and, while the vessel is waiting her turn to discharge, time is afforded 
 the shipmaster to make several excursions. Nothing can be finer than the 
 ride to Tsucha, to the waterfalls, round the Gavia, and back to the city 
 by the botanical gardens ; the latter are well worthy a special visit. The 
 ride alongside the aqueduct, which conveys water to the city from the 
 Corcovada, particularly if commenced previous to sunset, affords a view, or 
 series of views, the most magnificent that can be conceived. Every variety 
 of scenery is seen, the city itself is spread out before and underneath you, 
 as in a plan ; on one side every variety of hill and dale, mountain and 
 valley is perceived, covered with the most luxuriant vegetation, and 
 studded, at intervals, with the beautiful country residences of the mer- 
 chants, with the range of mountains behind towering towards the sky, on 
 the peaks of the Corcovada and Gavia ; all these objects illumined by the 
 glowing tints of the setting sun, amidst the fragrant odour exhaled from 
 the immense number of vessels, the various sail boats, the distant moun- 
 tains beyond, with their singularly rugged outline, the entrance of the 
 harbour, so distinctly marked by the Sugar-loaf hill, the white fortifi- 
 cations, perched on the heights around, the men-of-war just hauling 
 down their colours, their bands saluting the departing day with their 
 music, its strains wafted towards you by the last faint puffs of the sea- 
 breeze, and softened by the distance, complete a picture which cannot be 
 excelled in any part of the world." Nautical Magazine for 1842, page 803. 
 
 The following description of Rio de Janeiro, and city of St. Sebastian, 
 from the pen of Lieut. Shillibeer, of the Royal Marines, may prove in- 
 teresting : " The city of San Sebastian, the capital of the Portuguese 
 dominions in South America, and residence of the Emperor, is situated on 
 the south side of an extensive harbour, whose entrance is so exceedingly 
 narrow, and well fortified by nature, that, with the smallest assistance of 
 art, it could be rendered impregnable against any attack from the sea. 
 The fort of Santa Cruz, and a very remarkable mountain, from its shape, 
 bearing the name of the Sugar-loaf, form the entrance, at the distance of 
 about a mile. There is a bar which runs across, but the water is, at all 
 times, sufficiently deep to allow the largest ship to pass. Santa Cruz may 
 be considered the principal fortification, and is, with the exception of two 
 small islands commanding the channel, the only one in a tolerable state of 
 defence. At the foot of the Sugar-loaf mountain is a battery, of consider- 
 able extent, but so neglected, like several others along the shore, that it is 
 almost become useless. 
 
 " The city derives but little protection from its immediate fortifications, 
 and the island of Cobras, notwithstanding its contiguity, is now but little 
 calculated to render it any. 
 
 " There are wharfs and stairs for the purpose of landing at, but the most 
 convenient is at the great square, in which the Emperor resides. The 
 palace was originally the mansion of a merchant ; it is extensive, but has 
 nothing particularly magnificent in its appearance to indicate its being the 
 royal residence of the illustrious house of Braganza. 
 
 " At the bottom of this square is a very good fountain, which is supplied 
 with water from the adjacent mountains, and conveyed some distance by 
 the means of an aqueduct. 
 
 "The water is not good, and, on first using it, causes a swelling,
 
 288 
 
 accompanied with pain in the abdomen. Ships may be supplied with 
 considerable expedition. 
 
 " It is almost impossible, for a person possessing the least reflection, to 
 pass this spot without being struck with the contrast which must necessarily 
 present itself to him. On the one hand, he may contemplate the palace of a 
 voluptuous prince, surrounded by courtiers, and wallowing in luxury ; on 
 the other, slavery, in its most refined and horrible state. 
 
 " Leaving the square you enter a street of considerable length and width, 
 in which the custom-house, the residence of the British consul, &c., &c., 
 are situated. 
 
 " The houses are generally well built ; some of the streets are good, and 
 all exceedingly filthy. The shops are well supplied with British, as well 
 as other wares ; and whether the vendor be English or Portuguese, he is 
 equally unconscionable in his demand. Most of the streets are designated 
 by the trades which occupy them ; as, in Shoe-street, you will find shoe- 
 makers ; in Tin-street, tinmen ; in Gold-street, goldsmiths, lapidaries, &c. 
 Gold-street is the chief attraction, and is generally the resort of strangers, 
 who are anxious to supply themselves with jewellery or precious stones, 
 natural to the country ; but it is not always they are fortunate enough to 
 succeed in getting them real, for, since it has become the royal residence, it 
 has drawn such a host of English, Irish, and Scotch adventurers, and the 
 Portuguese being such apt scholars in knavery, that, among them, it is ten 
 to one you are offered a piece of paste for a diamond ; among the former 
 it is but seldom otherwise. The inns, although better than in many places, 
 can boast of no excellence. 
 
 " This city possesses a considerable number of churches, but they are by 
 no means splendid ; and, excepting in the chapel-royal, which is adjoining 
 the palace, I observed nothing worthy of notice. Here may be seen a few 
 good portraits of the apostles. The altar-piece is modern, and contains 
 the full length figures of the prince and family kneeling before the 
 holy virgin. 
 
 " The theatre and opera are attached also to the palace, but possess no 
 particular elegance. The market is well supplied with every article, and 
 is in so eligible a situation, that with a comparatively small portion of 
 trouble, it might be kept in fine order : but the people are idolaters to fil- 
 thiness, and not less slaves to it than superstition. 
 
 " The laws of this place seem to be very deficient ; without money it is 
 impossible to obtain justice, and with it you can prevent its being admin- 
 istered. The murder of a lay-subject is scarcely ever punished ; the least 
 insult to the church, most rigorously. 
 
 " The trade with this port is very considerable, and from various coun- 
 tries. There is a Chinese warehouse, of great extent, and, at certain 
 periods, articles from China may be procured at a low rate. This estab- 
 lishment is propagating with the greatest assiduity the tea-plant, and from 
 the progress they have already made, I am authorised in drawing a con- 
 clusion of its ultimately being of so great importance to Europe, that 
 instead of China the Brazils will be the grand mart for this dearly beloved 
 article. 
 
 " The country, for a considerable distance round, is peculiarly beautiful 
 the mountains high and woody the valleys perfect gardens. Fruits of the 
 most delicious nature are found here in great abundance, and the orange 
 appedrs to be a never-failing tree ; the quantity of this fruit I have seen 
 exhibited for sale in the orange market is astonishing, and on the same tree 
 is often to be seen the blossoms, the fruit in its primitive state, some half 
 ripe, and others fit for use. The pine-apple is also here, and in great per-
 
 289 
 
 fection. In the neighbourhood there are several botanical gardens, chiefly 
 belonging to private individuals. Many plants, but rarely to be met with 
 in England, were brought from them in the Briton. 
 
 " The naval department of the Portuguese is not great, but they had 
 commissioned several sail of the line, and, before we left the port, five of 
 them, with some frigates and corvettes, were ready for sea. Many others, 
 of various classes, were moored off the arsenal, which is of some extent, 
 and situated near the island of Cobras. 
 
 " The harbour of Rio de Janeiro is spacious, and, were the heat less 
 oppressive, it might be esteemed as one of the most desirable in the world. 
 There is a breeze from the sea, generally about noon, which cools the 
 atmosphere, and renders it, in some degree, bearable. 
 
 " Notwithstanding the entrance is so narrow, the harbour increases to 
 the width of three or four leagues, in which gulf, or basin, are numerous 
 small islands, some of them possessing villages, others gentlemen's seats 
 only. The water becomes soon shallow, so that, at a small distance above 
 the island, containing the British hospital, it is not sufficiently deep for a 
 vessel of any burden to pass ; but great trade is carried on by means of 
 large boats. The whole of those islands are very picturesque." 
 
 RIO JANEIRO TO THE RIVER PLATE. 
 
 MARAMBAYA ISLAND. This island lies to the westward of the 
 entrance of Rio de Janeiro ; it is twenty miles in length, and forms the 
 Gulf of Marambaya, in which are 3 and 4 fathoms. It is bounded on one 
 side by the main land, and on the other by the Restinga, or island ; the 
 latter is a narrow bank of sand, about twenty feet above the level of the 
 sea ; toward the sea it is steep, and the surf breaks against it with violence ; 
 toward the bay it is level and smooth. At the western end of this sandy 
 bank is a single bold mountain, about 700 feet high. It has a church and 
 some good springs. 
 
 Off the east end of the Praya de Marambaya is Point Guaratiba, at 
 which commences the range of mountains that surround the Gulf of Rio 
 Janeiro ; from this point, in clear weather, at 7| leagues to the east, may 
 be clearly seen the Isle Redonda, off the entrance, and the steep shores, 
 in streaks of white and dark green, which terminate the coast. You may 
 equally see, at about 6 leagues to the E. N. E., the Gavia mountain, which, 
 from its remarkable form, cannot be mistaken for any other, and which ig 
 the surest indication of Rio Janeiro, on approaching from the southward. 
 On proceeding thence, toward Rio, no particular caution is required, and 
 having come up nearly to Redonda, you may shape a course according to 
 the wind, between it and the neighbouring islets, recollecting only, before 
 entering, that it is requisite to have a wind which will carry you in before 
 night ; such wind commences about noon, the time of day when the breeze 
 sets in from the offing, almost always with sufficient force. 
 
 As the land of Marambaya is low, it should, in thick weather, be ap- 
 proached with caution. It is the more necessary as a large or flat rock, 
 surrounded by shoal ground, lies at 3 miles from the shore, nearly off the 
 middle of the isle, which should not, therefore, be approached nearer than 
 to 4 miles, or in 22 to 30 fathoms of water, bottom of sand and gravel. 
 
 The ILHA GRANDE is about 5 leagues in length, and separates the en- 
 trances from the harbours of Marambaya and Gairosu. The eastern end of 
 the Ilha Grande lies at the distance of 15| leagues from Point Garia, and 
 
 o o
 
 290 
 
 opposite to the bluff point of Marambaya island ; the channel between it 
 and the latter is very safe for ships of any size, which may take shelter 
 here ; the soundings are from 15 to 9 and 7 fathoms. On the eastern side 
 of the Ilha Grande is anchorage, in the several little bays named Palmer, 
 Allroo, and Eschella, for ships of any burthen. 
 
 Within the Restinga, or isle of Marambaya, the soundings, eastward,- 
 diminish from 8 to 3 and 2 fathoms. From the Punta do Sena, or N. "W. 
 extremity of the isle, a reef, or tongue of sand, extends nearly three miles 
 N. N. W., toward an islet, called the Gavia Grande, which lies at the 
 entrance of an opening near the north shore. The best passage, toward 
 the eastern part of the gulf, is made by keeping the main land on board, 
 leaving the Jaguano groups on the starboard side, and the islands Sacurucu 
 and Madiura on the larboard. There is anchorage at a mile and a half, 
 S. E. ^ S., from the river Taguai, in 5 or 6 fathoms, muddy ground, with 
 the island Madeira, W. N. W. W., 2$ miles ; Tacurucu, W. S. W. W. ; 
 and Mount Marambaya, S. W. ; on sailing out from this spot keep the main 
 land on board, and pass between Tacurucu and Fatada, or the N. E. isle of 
 the Saguana group. You may freely stand toward the Gavia Grande, but 
 must be cautious in approaching the bank of Marambaya, proceeding in 
 not less than 10 fathoms, as the edge of that bank is very steep. About 
 two miles from the south side of Ilha Grande is Georgi Grego islet, which 
 is bold-to. It affords not only anchorage, on its north side for large ships, 
 but plenty of wood and water. 
 
 GAIROSU BAY. Between Ilha Grande and Punta Joatinga is the 
 entrance to Gairosu bay. It may readily be known by Friar's Hood, a re- 
 markable inland hill to the northward ; bring this hill to bear N. by E. ^ E. 
 and steer toward it, until you are 2^ miles within the point of the island, 
 when you may anchor. By keeping within this distance from the island, 
 on the east, a sunken rock will be avoided, which lies nearly in the middle 
 of the entrance. On coming in numerous isles, inclosed within the bay, 
 will be seen ; and between those on the east is a passage into the gulf of 
 Marambaya. The village of Villa Grande is on the N. E. shore. The 
 points of Joatinga and Cairocu terminate the south part of the high lands 
 which encompass the great bay of Ilha Grande, &c.; they are high and 
 steep, and may be approached with safety. 
 
 S. "W. by W. ^ W. from Point Cairocu, distant 25 miles, is the Porcus, 
 or Hogs' isles. Between the larger isle and the coast is a fine channel, into 
 which large vessels may enter and pass with perfect safety; but they 
 should not venture in with a shifting wind. One of the best roadsteads 
 hereabout is in a cove of Porcus, with 8 or 9 fathoms of water, sheltered 
 from all winds, excepting those from N. E. to E. by N., which seldom con- 
 tinue so long as to cause a heavy sea : here the tide is scarcely percep- 
 tible. Opposite to the Ilha de Porcus is the Bahia de Tabaroes, or Shark's 
 bay, capable of accommodating large ships, the anchorage being clear and 
 good ; its entrance is about a mile wide, with 8 fathoms water in it. 
 
 The Busies islets lie S. by E. from Ilha de Porcus, distant 1 1 miles, and, 
 at 6 miles W. 31 S. is the isle Vittoria. Between these several groupes 
 the passage is clear for vessels of all dimensions, and so is all the basin 
 formed between the island of St. Sebastao and the continent, with the ex- 
 ception, that the channel between St. Sebastao and Vittoria is contracted by 
 a reef, extending 2 miles S. S . "W. from the latter, and therefore vessels of 
 large draught should not attempt it. 
 
 ST. SEBASTAO, OR ST. SEBASTIAN. This island is 13$ miles in 
 length, and in clear weather may be seen at the distance of 45 miles. The 
 western coast opposite to the continent forms, with the latter, the gullet or
 
 291 
 
 strait, and several deep bays, wherein there are excellent anchorages, bot- 
 tom of ooze or mud, and depths of 7 to 22 fathoms ; vessels should enter it 
 from the northward, and keep near the island. Its general direction, half- 
 way down, is S. S. W. \ W. and thence most westerly. It is contracted 
 by a bank extending from the continental coast on the west, for more 
 than two -thirds of its length from N. to S. In the roadsteads, on the 
 island side, the depths are from 15 to 18, and the depths in the channel 
 vary from 10 to 20 fathoms; the bottom muddy ground. The greatest 
 breadth of the strait is, at the north part, 3 miles ; but two-thirds of this 
 space is occupied by the bank on the west, over which are from 5 feet to 
 3 fathoms. 
 
 The ancient town of St. Sebastian is on the continent, at the narrowest 
 part of the strait. Since 1817 the Brazillians have founded a new town on 
 the Isle, called Villa de Princeza. S. "W. of this town, at the distance of 400 
 fathoms, is the best anchorage for ships of war, where there are 16 fathoms 
 of water, bottom of grey sand. 
 
 The south entrance of the gullet is not above a mile wide, but during a 
 S. E. gale it will afford shelter to ships of war. There appears to be little 
 or no regular set or rise and fall of tide here ; but the current with north- 
 erly winds set to the southward, and with southerly winds to the north- 
 ward; there may however be a rise of 2 or 3 feet on the days of full and 
 change, on which the time of high water has been estimated at 1 1 h. 
 
 Point Pirasmungo, the S. E. point of the island, is situate in latitude 20 
 57' 32" S., and longitude 45 11' 40" W. 
 
 Moela islet, near the entrance of the port of Santos, bears W. by S. 15g 
 leagues from the S. "W. end of St. Sebastian. In the bay between, at 5 miles 
 from shore, lies the Montao de Trigo, or the Corn Stack islet, in latitude 
 23 51' 4" S., longitude 45' 43' 10" W. ; the Alcatrasses, or Cormorant isles, 
 lie S. S. E. from Montao de Trigo, distant 16 miles; the largest of this 
 groupe may be seen at the distance of 21 miles. It appears from the E. 
 S. E. in the form of a dolphin, connected with two small rocks, which turn 
 to W". S. W.; another rock, larger than the two just mentioned, lies at two 
 miles to the W. N. W., and two or three others lie nearly at the same dis - 
 tance to the N. E. ; the pilots say that the bottom, near these rocks, is not 
 clear, and that it is dangerous to approach them within 4 or 5 miles, unless 
 the wind be fair, as the currents from the gullet and eastern side of St. Se- 
 bastian, occasionally affect the sea hereabout, this precaution is the more 
 requisite. From the north-easternmost of these islets the entrance of the 
 port of Santos bears nearly west, distant 39 miles. 
 
 SANTOS. This harbour is formed, on the east, by St. Amaro island, 
 which is separated from the continent by the river Batioga ; through this 
 river craft may still pass into the harbour. The southern, or chief entrance, 
 to the port of Santos admits large vessels, which may enter and be shelter-- 
 ed from all winds, excepting those from S. S. W. to S. E. On advancing 
 into the bay, from the southward, you will have 10, 9, 8, and 7 fathoms of 
 water, until near the bar, upon which there are only 4g and 5 fathoms ; 
 the passage within is narrow, but the eastern side is the boldest, having 
 deep water close to the shore. At six miles up the river, on the eastern, 
 and above the second bar, is a fort, upon a perpendicular rock, near which 
 is a depth of 1 8 fathoms. Having arrived here you will see the town of 
 Santos to the west, on steering toward which, at two or three cables' length 
 from shore, you will avoid the bank stretching from the north side ; and 
 when nearly up to the town you may anchor ; the best spot is abreast of 
 the town, in 7 fathoms, muddy bottom. 
 
 The Lage or Rock of Santos^ otherwise called Bird isle, is about 6 feet
 
 292 
 
 high above the sea : it lies 16^ miles S. 20 E. from Moela islet; between 
 it and Santos are 15 to 18 fathoms, sand and mud. 
 
 To the S. W. of the port of Santos is the village of Conceicao, distant 27 
 miles; and at seven miles E. 25 S. from Conceicao is the Lage or Rock of 
 Conceicao^ about 12 feet high above the sea; at a little distance from it are 
 12 fathoms of water, bottom of soft sand ; from this place the port of San- 
 tos may be distinctly seen at seven leagues to the N. E. 
 
 Redonda, or Little Queimada. This is a small round islet, thickly wooded, 
 and visible 20 miles off: it lies at the distance of 10 miles S. 30 W. from 
 the Lage of Conceicao, in latitude 24 21' 26" S., longitude 46 46' W. 
 
 The Queimada Grande is a large rock, nearly barren, lying at about 10 
 miles to the S. E. from Redonda, in latitude 2428'21" S., longitude 46 38" 
 W. This islet is long and narrow, extending about N. N. E. and S. S. W., 
 nearly two miles, with a reef from its northern point. Its highest part, 
 appearing of a round form, is to the S. W. 
 
 A rock, stated to lie in latitude 25 41' 20" S., and about 44 50' W., was 
 discovered on the 13th of February, 1811, by Medeiros, a pilot of Bahia, 
 who was about a year along with Baron Roussin, and in whom Baron 
 Roussin considered all confidence might safely be placed. If it exists, it lies 
 about S. by E. (true) 35 leagues from the S. E. end of St. Sebastian. 
 
 From Conceiaco the coast trends to the S. W., 14 miles, to the creek of 
 Piruibe; thence follow, in succession, the islets and point of Guaraha, the 
 little river Una, Point Jurea, the river Iguape, the entrance of the Mar 
 Pequeno de Iguape, and the port of Cananea. The soundings along shore 
 generally increase in depth according to the height of the lands ; and 
 there may be found, at from 3 to 10 miles off shore, 7 to 13 fathoms of 
 water. You may anchor off any part of the shore, at two or three miles 
 from the beach, on an excellent bottom, in from 5 to 9 fathoms ; but as 
 there are no harbours for large vessels, there can be no motive for anchoring 
 here, unless in a calm, when not exposed to danger. 
 
 CANANEA. Bom Abrigo islet marks the entrance of this port ; it is 
 high, covered with trees, and vessels may anchor at a little distance from it 
 to the eastward ; a smaller islet lies on the south side of it, two miles to 
 the eastward of which are 10 and 11 fathoms of water, over a bottom of 
 sand. The common channel into the harbour is to the northward of Bom 
 Abrigo, although obstructed by several shoals ; but the southern channel is 
 the deepest, and a vessel may venture into either with the assistance of a 
 pilot. The bar may be found by means of Morro Cardoz, situate inland, 
 about 5 leagues to the W. N. W., and by the Praya or beach of Iguape. 
 On proceeding southward from Bom Abrigo, you will see, at the distance of 
 10 miles, Castillo islet, 32 feet high above the water; nearly 9 miles beyond 
 this, in the same direction, is Figueira islet, 160 feet high ; both are nearly 
 barren, and bear from each other S. 28 W., and N. 28 W. (by compass); 
 at a mile distant from each are 13 to 9 fathoms, fine sandy ground. 
 
 PARANAGUA. The entrance to this gulf, or bay, is sheltered and 
 divided into two passages by the Isle do Mel, or Honey isle, which is low, 
 and has several hummocks on it, resembling islets at a distance. To the 
 northward of Isle do Mel are the Palmas islets. The southern passage 
 being obstructed by breakers, is not navigable ; the northern admits brigs. 
 In entering this passage, you leave the Palmas islets on the starboard side ; 
 but here a pilot is indispensable. The town of Paranagua is on the south side 
 of the gulf, within the west end of Colinga isle, distant 4| leagues from 
 the entrance. 
 
 RIVER GUARATUBA. To the S. S. W. of the Isle do Mel, distant 
 23 miles, is the river Guaratuba : its bar lies at the southern extremity of
 
 293 
 
 a shallow bank, which extends from the shore eastward, to the distance 
 of 3 to 8 miles. On the edge of this bank, in latitude 25 47' S. is the Ilha 
 do Coral, 64 feet high, and more to the southward are two islets, called the 
 Itacolomis, 21 feet in height, lying in latitude 25 50' 20" S., and longitude 
 48 24' W., these may be approached from the offing to one or two miles, 
 where there may be found 9 to 1 1 fathoms of water, bottom of sand and mud. 
 
 From the river Guaratuba, distant 5g leagues, is the point of Joao Dias, 
 the northern point of the island of San Francisco, and which forms the 
 eastern extremity of the river of that name ; at 2| miles to the east of the 
 point, are the islets of Garcia, and south from the latter is another groupe, 
 called the Tamboretes, distant two miles from the nearest shore. Five 
 miles to the S. S. W. of the latter are the Remedies islets and the Lobos 
 Tapilingo, situate off the mouth of the Aracasy, or southern branch of the 
 Rio San Francisco ; all these islets are covered with trees, and small vessels 
 pass between them and the shore. 
 
 The river of San Francisco is the only considerable and important river 
 hereabout ; it is broad, but not deep, and falls into the sea in a N. N. E. 
 direction. The bay before its mouth affords anchorage in several depths, 
 and at two leagues off there are 9 fathoms of water, over a bottom of 
 fine sand. 
 
 Between Rio San Francisco and Point Itapacoroya is a slender bay, broken 
 only by the small river of Itapucu ; in the southern part of this bay are the 
 Itacolomi rocks, 16 feet above water, and the Faya, of 32 feet. Near the 
 islets you may anchor, and obtain fresh water, sheltered from winds 
 between the south and west. Between the Point Itapacoroya and the 
 island of Santa Catherine are several bays ; in the last, called Tijoucas bay, 
 which is to the N. W. of St. Catherine, there is good anchorage. 
 
 On approaching St. Catherine's, from the northward, several small isles 
 and islets will be seen; the largest is that named Arroredo, in latitude 
 27 1 6' 47 ' S., longitude 48 20' W. The channels between are perfectly safe, 
 the depths varying from 22 to 11 fathoms, bottom of ooze and grey sand; 
 taking care only to avoid the rock and breaker of San Pedro, which is 
 situate at about 3,000 fathoms "W". N. W. from Arvoredo. You may range 
 along the points of land to the north-westward of these isles, named Zamba, 
 Bombas, Garopas, and Camboriu, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles. 
 
 ISLAND OF ST. CATHERINE. This island, which forms an 
 excellent harbour, is 9 leagues in length, and its greatest breadth is 10 
 miles. The northern point is in latitude 27 22' S., and longitude 48 
 22' 30" W. ; the entrance to the harbour is to the northward of the island, 
 where lie several small islands ; those of Alvaredo and Gal cannot easily be 
 mistaken, particularly the latter, remarkable by the long white streaks on 
 its steep sides, and by St. Peter's islands, which are at the south end, and 
 two rocks at its northern extremity ; the passages in are extremely good 
 and easy. Vessels coming from the northward are recommended to steer 
 in between the islands Gal and Alvaredo, leaving the small rocks and 
 islands of St. Peter on the starboard side ; the anchorage is perfectly safe 
 everywhere, whether to the northward or southward of the fort Santa 
 Cruz, which stands at the entrance; yet it is better to anchor to the 
 southward, as well on account of communication with the town, as of 
 the vicinity to the village of S. Miguel, where the best water is to be 
 procured. In coming to St. Catherine's, from the southward, you steer 
 between the island of Arvoredo and that of St. Catherine ; the passage is 
 perfectly safe. If the wind should be contrary, a ship may work in without 
 danger, for close to St. Catherine's there are 4 fathoms of water, and the 
 coast towards Arvoredo is equally deep.
 
 4 294 
 
 The ebb and flood here are very unsettled, and depend entirely on the 
 wind, the flood sets in from the north, the ebb from the south ; and, as the 
 wind is almost always from the sea, the ebb, with a fresh northerly wind, 
 is scarcely apparent, and seldom lasts more than two or three hours. 
 
 BARON Roussm says, " That the island of St. Catherine is sufficiently 
 elevated to be seen, in clear weather, at the distance of 1 5 leagues. At this 
 distance is found 62 fathoms of water, and this depth diminishes to four 
 cables from the coast, where there are only 4 fathoms. 
 
 "On approaching from the east the island appears in very irregular 
 heights, being intersected by mountains separated by deep valleys; the 
 greatest elevation is from north to south, and the mountains of the continent 
 beyond it are a-little more elevated than that of the island. You will par- 
 ticularly distinguish among them the Morro de Camborella, a branch of the 
 eastern Cordilheiras, extending from St. Catherine's to Rio Janeiro. 
 
 " About the middle of the isle, near the sea, is a large lagoon, under the 
 high lands, which presents an apparent opening, that may serve as a land- 
 fall. When, at 3 leagues from the eastern coast, you bring this opening to 
 the west, the N. E. point of the isle will bear about N. TV., at three leagues. 
 All the exterior coast is clean and moderately steep, and you may range 
 along it without danger, passing several large rocks which lie off it. 
 
 "The island may be navigated all round, and it presents numerous 
 anchorages between its western coast and the continent ; but the north part 
 of the intervening channel is the part most fit for vessels drawing much 
 water, and it is, therefore, that generally used. This passage is rather less 
 than two leagues broad, is clear of danger, and, on coming in, you may 
 advance to either side, only observing to keep clear of the Northern Mo- 
 leques, large rocks, which lie to the S. E. of Point Rapa, the north point of 
 the island. This channel hence is clear, and you may beat up to cither 
 shore without risk, in from 40 to 28 feet of water. 
 
 " Having advanced within the strait, you may anchor in any part, ac- 
 cording to the vessel's draught; and, in keeping near mid-channel, the depth 
 will be sufficient for large ships when at 1,000 toises (1,065 fathoms) S. by 
 E. from the little isle Anhatomirim, on which the fort of Santa Cruz is 
 built. Passing this point, on advancing to the south-westward, the depth 
 gradually decreases to 15 and 12 feet ; and to the southward of the Raton 
 islets, lying on the eastern side, there is not more than 10 or 12 feet of 
 water. In the large bay to the west, called the Sacco Grande, the depths are 
 still less ; this bay is a tranquil place, frequented mostly by vessels employed 
 in the whale fishery of the coast, and is well adapted for small vessels. 
 
 " The tides are regular in the gullet, but it has been remarked, that, as 
 they enter by the north and south at the same time, meeting in the road- 
 stead near the town, they return in a similar way, with greater or less 
 velocity as they may be accelerated or retarded by the prevailing wind. 
 The mean velocity of the current rarely exceeds three-tenths of a mile in 
 the hour, at half-tide, and the difference of level, in ordinary tides, is not 
 more than three feet. In the Syrygies, however, the current frequently 
 runs at the rate of a mile and a half, and then the water rises and falls 5 
 or 6 feet. Time of high water, on the full and change, 2 h. 40 m. 
 
 " The governor of the province resides in the town of Nossa Senhora do 
 Desterro, which is situate at about 10 miles S. by E. from the islet Anha- 
 tomirim, on the narrow of the strait, about half-way down the island. 
 This place, which is well sheltered, may be reached at all times by small 
 vessels, and the communications between all the points are quickly made. 
 At the anchorage, half a mile before the town, the depth, at low water, 
 is 20 feet.
 
 295 
 
 "The approach to St. Catharine's may be made indifferently on the 
 parallels between 27 30' and 28. The winds and currents in the offing 
 are not such as to cause much error in the route ; but, at all times, you 
 should prefer making the southern part of the isle in the southern monsoon, 
 and that of the north on the contrary." 
 
 The coast to the southward, and the southern part of St. Catherine's, 
 were not surveyed by Baron Roussin, and, in consequence, M. Barral, 
 commander of the surveying vessel 1'Emulation, was charged with con- 
 tinuing the work, and surveying the Rio Plata ; the following is his de- 
 scription, " The lands of the island, and of the adjacent coast to Cape Santa 
 Maria Grande, are very high and woody. The highest mountains which 
 are seen beyond the island are in the chain of Culatao ; they are covered 
 with clouds during the prevalence of southerly winds, but are clear with 
 winds from the N. E. In the offing, at 12 leagues from the island, there 
 are soundings of 62 to 72 fathoms, with a muddy bottom. On approach- 
 ing, the depth gradually decreases ; at a distance of three leagues are 33 to 
 35 fathoms, and 18 to 28 at 4 miles. 
 
 " The Isle Arvoredo^ at the northern entrance, which is high, has two 
 sugar-loaf summits, which are first seen on approaching. The islet Badejo, 
 8 miles to the southward of Arvoredo, is destitute of vegetation. A vessel 
 drawing not more than 14 feet of water, and entering by the north passage 
 for the town of N. S. do Desterro, having passed the north end of the 
 island, should be guided by the following indications : 
 
 " Steer for the Cape Quebra Caba9o, on the continent, leaving the two 
 islets, Ratons, on the larboard side, at a mile and a half or less. The course 
 toward the island of Anhatomirim will be about S. "W. by W., and thence 
 S. W. by S. When you bring the Little or Southern Raton to bear 
 E. tj N. (East) at two miles off, change the course to S. E. and continue 
 it thus for 3 miles, passing a rocky flat, Impatitinga do Norte^ off Cape 
 Quebra Cabaco, on the starboard side. On these rocks are only 4 or 5 
 feet, at low water. When you have brought the cape to the south of 
 these rocks, bearing W. N. W., the route is to the S. W. until you bring 
 the rocks N. N. W. W. 
 
 You then steer to the south-westward, about half a league, so as to pass 
 at 4 or 5 cables to the eastward of a rock near Cape Henriqucs, which, 
 being a woody cape, is thus distinguished from Quebra Cabaco; next 
 proceed south-eastward, toward the narrow part of the strait, leaving the 
 islet and point do Lial, on the western side, at the distance of 3 or 4 cables. 
 Steering hence S. by E. you enter the Little Strait or Narrows, which is 
 commanded on the left by Fort Santa Anna, and on the right by the 
 battery of San Joao. Here you will find from 11 to 16 fathoms of water, 
 and will perceive, in advancing, the islets Gato and Das Vinhas* at the 
 extremities of the cove on which the town is built ; you leave the first on 
 the left, and may then cast anchor in 20 to 21 feet of water, with the islet 
 Gato bearing N. N. E. ; Das Vinhas, S. S. E. ; and the steeples of the 
 cathedral, N. E. The city of N. S. do Desterro is situate in latitude 27 
 35' 25" S., longitude 48 29' 16" W. 
 
 " On coming from the northward to the town, at times, there are found 
 spots of only 7 feet of water, but the ooze has 5 feet at least, and the vessel 
 will not be injured ; with high water the Emulation, which drew 14 feet, 
 came up to the town in three days. When the water was low and the 
 stream weak she anchored. 
 
 " The Eastern coast of St. Catherine's is clean, but off the points, at some 
 distance, are several rocks and islets above water : these are the Northern 
 Moleques, the islet Badejo, the two Aranhas, the isle Xaviar, Ilha do
 
 296 
 
 Campexe, the Southern Moleques, the Tres Irmaos or Three Brothers, the 
 Papagaios isles, the Fort isle, at the entrance of the southern passage, and 
 the Isle dos Cardos, within the same. 
 
 " In proceeding along the coast, at the distance of 3 or 4 miles, we passed 
 between the Irmaos and the southern Moleques, in 15 fathoms of water. 
 The only obstructions are the islets and rocks above-mentioned, which may 
 be seen at 9 miles off, and about which there are 13 fathoms. At the Isle 
 do Campexe you may find anchorage, sheltered from southerly winds. 
 
 " THE SOUTHERN ENTRANCE into the Strait or Gullet of St. Catherine's 
 lies between the S. "W. extremity of the island, Point dos Naupagados, 
 and the Fort isle, a very narrow passage, but in which there are 17 
 fathoms of water. In entering from the southward you should have a 
 leading wind, rising tide, and fair weather, without which the current 
 may carry you on the Fort isle, or on the opposite point, which are less 
 than 300 fathoms apart. The vessel should not draw more than 15 feet. 
 On coming from the southward you steer toward the Fort isle, and, when 
 you have the Papagaios on your left, you will see the Irmaos to the right. 
 On passing hence, north-westward, the pass between the Fort isle and 
 Point Naupagados will be open ; having passed through, on a west course, 
 you change the course to north, and pass the islet Cardos, which is re- 
 markable for an insulated tree, which stands on its summit. 
 
 " You pass to the eastward of Cardos, at the distance of one or two 
 cables, and then proceed north-westward, toward the Enceado do Brito, to 
 the distance of half a mile ; and thence north, along the western shore, to 
 the point of Pesqueiro Fordo, at the distance of 4 cables ; thus you will 
 leave, on the western side, the village of Enceado do Brito, and further on 
 a cluster of houses and cottages, forming the little hamlet of Cedros. On 
 your right, at a distance, you may see the village of Ribeirao, or San Lapa, 
 on the island of St. Catherine, and nearly before you will be an islet, the 
 Ilha do Largo ; before arriving at the last you will have passed a flat of 
 dangerous rocks, beyond which you will be, when the steeples of the 
 cathedral appear on the western part of the islet Largo, and the west 
 point of Cardos is on the fort of the south bar. From off the Isle do 
 Largo continue your course N. ^ W., until an islet, des Cascas, bears west, 
 thence proceed toward the steeples of the city, up to the anchorage, 
 between the islets do Gato and dos Vinhas. 
 
 " At the distance of 2^ miles from the south end of St. Catherine's is 
 Point Pinheira, under which is good anchorage, sheltered from southerly 
 winds ; from the outer extremity of this point, distant 2i miles, is the Ilha 
 do Coral islet, about three-quarters of a mile in length ; it is covered with 
 trees, and is a useful mark for vessels bound in by the southern passage. 
 Its situation is latitude 27 55' 10" S., longitude 48 29' 10" W. Between 
 this islet and the Cape St. Marto Grande are the Ilha das Araras, to the 
 S. E. of Point Bituba, in latitude 28 18' 0' S., longitude 48 31' 32" W. ; 
 the islet Tocoromi, a high and steep rock, to the S. E. of the Ilha Araras, 
 in latitude 28 19' 29 S., longitude 48 30' 30" W. ; and the Isle dos 
 Lobos de la Jaguna, to the S. E. of the Araras and Tocoromi, in latitude 
 28 24' 36" S., longitude 48 40' W. 
 
 " At Point Bituba begins the beach, within which is a lake, and the 
 towns of Villa Nova, Santa Anna, and la Laguna ; the last is situate at 
 the south part of the lake, at a mile to the N. W. of the bar, in latitude 
 28 28' 33" S., and longitude 48 45' 24" W. At la Laguna is anchorage, 
 practicable only for small vesssels drawing under 7 or 8 feet of water, as 
 there is a bar at the entrance. 
 
 " The Cape Santa Marta Grande is the final termination of the line of
 
 297 
 
 mountains extending within shore to the northward, and is remarkable by 
 having on its summit several great white rocks, which, from a distance, 
 appear like an assemblage of houses. The variation of the compass here, 
 in November, 1831, was 7 20' E. 
 
 " Between Cape Santa Marta Grande and the bar of the Rio Grande de 
 San Pedro, an extent of about 95 leagues, the coast is extremely low, and 
 variegated only by sand-hills and stunted bushes. It can hardly be seen, 
 in clear weather, from the mast-head, at the distance of 7 or 8 miles, and 
 from the deck at not more than three miles ; the first part, from the north, 
 trends nearly S. W. ; this part is called the Praya, or beach of Torres, it 
 begins in longitude 48 44' 56", and ends in 49 55' 52" W. The second 
 part trends N. by E. and S. by W., and is called the Praya, or beach of 
 Fernambuco. Its eastern part begins with the termination of the former, 
 in latitude 29 52' S., and it extends to longitude 50 34' 52" "W. The third 
 part trends nearly S. W., and is known under the name of the Praya 
 do Destreito, from latitude 31 12' S. to the mouth of the Rio Grande de 
 San Pedro. 
 
 " When to the southward of Cape Santa Marta Grande, you may see, 
 in running along, a chain of mountains extending westward, about 15 
 leagues from the sea into the interior country, and disappearing at Torres, 
 which stands at 25 leagues from the cape, in latitude 29 28' S. The beach 
 here may be approached to the distance of 3 or 4 miles, and was coasted, 
 at this distance, by the Emulation ; but there were no marks on shore fit 
 for triangulation ; the situation of the vessel was ascertained by frequent 
 observation, and estimated distance from shore. Twenty-seven fathoms of 
 water, bottom of sand, mud, and shells, were found at four miles to the 
 south of Cape Santa Marta Grande ; and beyond that, in going to Torres, 
 the water diminished to 4^ fathoms, near the shore. We may judge of 
 the decrease of bottom, in remarking that, from the 27 fathoms to the 4^, 
 there is a distance of 25 leagues. 
 
 " The Praya do Fernambuco, between the parallels of 30 and 31 degrees, 
 is more steep than that of Torres. The Emulation found 35 fathoms of 
 water, bottom of mud and sand, at 4 or 5 miles from the shore. On sailing 
 out in the offing, to the distance of 15 leagues, the depths of water increase 
 progressively to 85 fathoms, soft sand : passing this limit there was no 
 bottom at 100 brasses, or 9J fathoms. At ten leagues out the depth is 
 about 74 fathoms. 
 
 " The Praya do Destreito terminates at the Rio Grande de San Pedro, as 
 above-mentioned ; from 9 to 13 fathoms were found in coasting along it, at 
 3 or 4 miles ; at this distance the Emulation ran 17 leagues, over a bottom 
 of sand. The shore is not higher than that of Fernambuco, but there are 
 some sand-hills more elevated, and there is more vegetation. In the 
 offing, at 20 or 24 leagues S. E. from this beach, are 34 and 35 fathoms of 
 water, bottom of mud and sand ; and, on approaching the land, the depths 
 gradually diminish. 
 
 REID'S SHOAL. Mr. Reid, of the brig Sweet Home, of Aberdeen, states 
 in a letter, dated Rio Grande, March 14th, 1842, "The vessel, on her 
 voyage from Liverpool to that port, struck on a shoal, in latitude 31 3' S., 
 and longitude 49 47' W., at least 70 miles off the Brazilian coast ; luckily 
 there was no sea on, and the wind was N. E. by E., which enabled her to 
 clear the shoal immediately, making but little water. After his arrival at 
 Rio Grande, the master of the Sweet Home ascertained that a Brazilian 
 schooner had grounded on the same reef a short time before. The reef, or 
 shoal, alluded to, has not been laid down in any chart, and lies immediately 
 in the track of vessels bound to that port. Shipping Gazette, July 1st, 1842. 
 
 P P
 
 298 
 
 The Rio GRANDE, or entrance to the Great Lake of St. Pedro, lies in 
 latitude 32 9' S. ; but vessels having a N. E., E. N. E., or Easterly wind 
 (any other wind may be dangerous that is from the sea) should make the 
 land in latitude 31 30' S. ; you may stand with security for the land, 
 steering W. S. W., until you find yourself in soundings, and when you 
 find yourself in 13 fathoms, you will see the land, if to the northward of 
 the bar ; but, if you have passed it, you will not, as the bank to the south- 
 ward stretches out to a greater distance ; and you cannot see the land, unless 
 when you are in .8 fathoms, and then barely. 
 
 The land, about 31 40', you will know by seeing several tufts of trees, 
 pretty high and rounding to the northward; and, standing along shore, 
 steering S. W., you will see sundry straggling tufts, but not so high. Here, 
 if it be very clear weather, you may see houses, which will appear in the 
 opening of the trees ; you may then stand along shore with safety, keeping 
 in from 10 to 9 or 8 fathoms. Losing sight of the trees and houses you 
 will see some mountains of sand, and an entire sandy beach ; and, when 
 you are within two leagues of the bar, you will see tufts of trees, and find 
 the soundings decrease, with a bottom of mud and red shells. You must 
 now keep in 8 fathoms, but not less, as the water sets right on shore when 
 close to the beach. The lead must now be kept going until you find soft 
 mud, when you will find yourself close to the bar, which may be known 
 by seeing several stakes along the beach ; you must then haul up and steer 
 south, to keep clear of the bank. You may easily know the bank by the 
 sea breaking over it, particularly from the eastward.* 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING THE PORT OF Rio GRANDE, by CAPTAIN 
 JAMES HARRISON, of the Brig General Wolfe. Nautical Magazine^ October, 
 1836. " No vessel drawing more than ten and a half, or eleven feet, should 
 attempt to enter the port of Rio Grande de San Pedro, and she must have 
 a leading wind to cross the bar. 
 
 " The land ought to be made to the north-east of the bar, in about 
 latitude 32 S. ; there is no difficulty in doing this, as the soundings are 
 perfectly regular, about 60 fathoms at 60 miles distance, and shoaling very 
 gradually; when in 10 or 11 fathoms you will see the land. It is not 
 advisable to get in shore to the southward of the bar. 
 
 " The coast is little known, and I never could get any of the coasters, 
 or pilots, to give me any information about the shoals said to exist there- 
 abouts. In general, but not always, the bottom is mud to the southward 
 and abreast of the bar, whilst it is usually sand to the northward ; and, if 
 
 * The following letter appeared in the Nautical Magazine for 1843, page 131 ; its date is 
 Eio Grande de San Pedro do Sul, June 20th, 1842, signed J. Houghton. "A vessel arriving 
 here should not draw more than 10 feet 6 inches water, in consequence of the shoalness of the 
 bar, particularly when the winds have prevailed for some time from the West or N. W. Make 
 the land ahout the Estreito, 8 leagues to the northward, where the anchorage ground is good, 
 and where a vessel may come-to with safety with any other than a south-easterly wind ; pro- 
 vided there is no possibility of getting in that day, and which I should recommend in preference 
 to standing off and on, at the risk of being drifted away by the current. Early the following 
 day get under-way, coasting it down, not venturing in less than 4 fathoms of prater, until you 
 come in sight of a white tower, which is a very conspicuous object; this lately has been made 
 higher ; there is a lantern on the summit, which is lighted at night. 
 
 "The tower must be brought to bear north, when a flag will be seen on the top ; if this signal 
 is kept up a vessel may enter ; if lowered down she must go out to sea again. After you have 
 crossed the bar come to an anchor near the gun-boat stationed there, until you have received a 
 visit, when a pilot will come on board and take the vessel up to the town. It is of importance 
 that vessels coming here should be of light draught of water, as the canal up to the town is 
 very shallow, and vessels have generally to be lightened before they go up. All other informa- 
 tion is contained in the Book of Directions ; but, as no recent account has appeared, I think it 
 would be doing a great sen-ice to masters of vessels coming here to publish the above in the 
 Nautical:'
 
 299 
 
 to the southward of the port, the land will not be seen till you are in 7 or 
 8 fathoms. I do not know of any mark to tell how far you are from the 
 port, as the whole shore consists of low sand-hills, interspersed with 
 bushes, and these hills alter their shapes with every gale of wind. The 
 town of the Estreito lies about thirty miles N. E. of the bar, but you must 
 be close in shore to see it ; this is the only object which breaks the same- 
 ness in the appearance of the coast for many miles. The latitude is the 
 best guide. 
 
 " After making the land, run down at a convenient distance, till you see 
 a square white tower, which stands at the entrance of the harbour, in 
 latitude 32 9' S. ; this is a very conspicuous object, makes like a sail at 
 a distance, and may be seen some time before the land about it. On the 
 top of this tower a man is stationed, who, as soon as he perceives a vessel, 
 hoists a red flag, when the pilot boat goes out to sound the bar ; as soon as 
 you see the tower distinctly, hoist the signals corresponding to your draft 
 of water at the fore. When you get down to within three or four miles of 
 the tower haul in shore, into four fathoms and a half, if a commanding 
 breeze ; or you may bring the tower to bear W. by S. ^ S., and steer 
 for it, when you will soon see the boat at anchor on the bar, with the 
 signal, corresponding to the depth of water on the bar, flying at the 
 mast-head. 
 
 NORTH-EAST BAR. " Should there not be sufficient water for you, 
 the red flag on the tower will now be hauled down, when you must haul 
 out to sea, and cruise off and on till the water rises. Sometimes a vessel 
 gets down near the bar before the boat gets out ; in this case the red flag 
 will be hauled down, and you must keep off and on till she arrives at her 
 station ; you will probably see her beating out, but do not attempt to run 
 for her until the red flag is up again. Do not lie-to, as there is usually a 
 strong lee current. The boat not being out in time seldom happens now, as 
 the pilots are much more attentive than they used to be. So soon as the 
 flag is up again, steer for the boat. 
 
 " Particular attention must now be paid to a man in this boat, who will 
 wave a small red flag, on the end of a long pole, in the direction you are to 
 steer. Thus, if he wants you to steer more in shore, he will point toward 
 the shore, and keep it pointed in that direction till your course is altered 
 sufficiently, when he will lower it ; and vice versa, luff-to, or bear away 
 immediately, according to the signals he makes. When you get near the 
 boat he will weigh his anchor, and proceed ahead of you ; follow in his 
 wake, still paying attention to his signals, and you will soon pass a second 
 boat at anchor : here the water deepens, but the channel is not a cable's 
 length broad. After passing this boat you haul more up toward the guard 
 schooner, and choose your anchorage anywhere to the westward of and 
 near her, (till you are out of quarantine) in from 4 to 8 fathoms, excellent 
 holding ground; do not go to the eastward of her, as she lies on the edge 
 of the bank. Have an anchor ready the moment you are over the bar, as 
 it frequently falls little wind when you open the river, with a strong current 
 setting out over the banks." 
 
 N.B. The New Southern bar, for which the directions will be hereafter 
 given, is now the principal entrance into Rio Grande, as will appear by the 
 following extract of a letter, addressed to the Editor of the Nautical Maga- 
 zine, by Captain Harrison, dated Liverpool, April 10th, 1838, " When I 
 wrote to you in August, 1836, respecting the entrance of Rio Grande de 
 San Pedro, I had no idea that a change in the position of the bar would 
 have taken place so soon as it has done ; the principal entrance being now 
 to the southward of the tower, instead of to the N. E. of it. In December,
 
 300 
 
 1836, 1 entered by the N. E. bar, (the one for which I sent you directions) 
 but the pilots said then, that the small swatchway to the southward, which 
 usually had about 7 feet on it, was improving; and in March, 1837, I saw 
 a brig go out by it, drawing 9 feet 3 inches, still there was no change in 
 the N. E. bar. I arrived there again in October, 1837, and entered by the 
 N. E. bar, drawing 10 feet 6 inches ; the pilots then said that the southern 
 bar was far the best. Soon after I arrived the N. E. bar closed up, 
 occasionally opening out again, but never with much water on it, so 
 that vessels now enter by the New Southern bar." Nautical Magazine, 
 May, 1838. 
 
 NEW SOUTHERN BAR. Captain Harrison, of the brig General 
 Wolfe, in a letter dated Liverpool, April 10th, 1838, addressed to the 
 Editor of the Nautical Magazine, says " The principal entrance into Rio 
 Grande is now to the southward of the tower, instead of the N. E. of it ; 
 the directions before given for making the tower may be followed with the 
 wind at N. E., which is the prevailing summer wind ; but no vessel can 
 enter with that wind, as the course will be N. E. immediately after 
 crossing the shoal part of the south bar. If the wind is southerly, the 
 land had better be made just to windward of the port, and you may 
 probably enter at once. The signals, mentioned in my former letter, are 
 to be hoisted at the fore, and the red flag on the tower will be hauled down 
 if you cannot enter. 
 
 " On making the tower you will perceive, on the top of it, two per- 
 pendicular flag-staffs, (one taller than the other) and two horizontal poles ; 
 the tall flag-staff is for the red flag, as a signal for you to steer for the bar. 
 With any signals which may be hoisted on the short flag-staff, you have 
 nothing to do ; these are intended to intimate to vessels, In the harbour, 
 that they can go to sea. Formerly this short flag-staff could not be seen 
 from the sea, being hid by the light-room, which was on the top of the 
 tower; but the light-room was burnt down in January, 1837, and has not 
 since been rebuilt, of course there is no longer a light. The two horizon- 
 tal poles, which project from windows a few feet below the top of the 
 tower, are for pointing out to a ship at sea which bar she is to steer for; 
 one of these poles points to the S. W., and the other to the N. E. If the 
 ship be steering for the N. E. bar, and the look-out man wishes her to go 
 to the Southern one, a flag will be run out on the S. W . pole, and vice versa. 
 Sometimes, if the look-out man see that a vessel is puzzled to find the bar 
 boat, (which is occasionally not easily seen, on account of the high breakers 
 between here and the ship) he will direct her by means of these flags ; steer 
 to the N. E. when the N. E. flag is run out, and to the S. W. when the 
 S. W. is out, paying attention to these in the same as you do to the waving 
 of the flag in the bar boat ; as soon as the look-out man perceives that you 
 can see the signals from the bar boat he will desist. Though these hori- 
 zontal arms are intended for this purpose, and are sometimes used when a 
 vessel gets into danger, a stranger must not rely upon seeing them, as the 
 pilots are very inattentive. 
 
 " When I wrote to you before there was an opposition party of pilots, 
 which made them all very much on the alert ; this did not last many 
 months, and they soon relapsed into their old careless habits. If running 
 do\vn the coast from the N. E., and proceeding for the south bar, do not 
 haul too close in shore when within three or four miles of the tower, but 
 keep in about 6 fathoms, so that you may clear the bank which fronts the 
 entrance of the river. If the wind will allow you to enter, and there be 
 sufficient water, which will be known by the red flag being kept up, you 
 may bring the tower to bear, and steer for it until you see the bar boat.
 
 301 
 
 Then pay attention to the waving of the flag from the boat, as mentioned 
 in my former letter ; when he weighs follow in his wake. The course will 
 be about N. E. immediately after crossing the shoal part of the bar ; leave 
 the second boat on your larboard side, and, after passing her, your course will 
 be about N. W. ; but you cannot go wrong following in the wake of the 
 bar boat, and paying attention to the waving of bis flag. 
 
 "This southern bar is, in some respects, better than the other used to 
 be. The channel is considerably broader, and the shoal part much shorter, 
 being not above two cables' length across, and deepening quickly, both 
 outside and inside, to 3, 4, and 5 fathoms. It is to be observed that N. E. 
 winds depress the water, and that South-westers raise it ; therefore, you 
 cannot load so deep in the port as formerly, as you cannot get out with 
 a S. W. wind ; again, if a S. W. wind blows strong, which it frequently 
 does, at its very commencement, it raises such a sea, on this southern bar, 
 as to render it impassable for a vessel which may be outside, in fact, the 
 bar boat could not get out. I came over this southern bar in December, 
 1837, drawing 11 feet 3 inches, with a northerly wind, and the water 
 unusually high for the wind in that direction ; the brig thumped over all 
 the shoal part. Fortunately the sea was a-beam, so that she fell bodily on 
 her keel fore and aft ; and, as the ground is not hard, she did herself no 
 harm. I do not think any vessel ought to go there drawing more than 10 
 feet 6 inches, though many do so. 
 
 " With a S. E. wind I would not advise any one to run for the coast, 
 unless the weather promises to be quite fine. With the wind from the 
 N. E., round to the northward, there is pretty good anchorage, in 5 or 6 
 fathoms, just outside the southern bar ; you will be sheltered by the bank 
 to the N. E., and if the wind come round to N. W. you may enter, but 
 beware of a south-easter. There is plenty of room for a fore and aft rigged 
 craft, of little water, to beat over the bar, but the current generally runs 
 too strong with the wind. According to the pilots, this southern bar is 
 nearly in the same position that it was about fourteen years ago ; and that 
 it gradually moved to the N. E. until it got close to the shore, about two 
 miles to the N. E. of the tower, when (as we have seen) it closed up the 
 bank, at the same time opening out again to the southern. I should 
 therefore suppose it likely that this would do the same. 
 
 " There are no regular tides in the Kio Grande ; the current commonly 
 runs with the wind, and, as in the river Plata, and I believe all along 
 this coast, S. W. winds raise the water, and north-easters depress it; 
 consequently a vessel may load in the port to 12 feet, as there is almost 
 always plenty of water with the S. W. wind, which blows right over 
 the bar. 
 
 " The S. W. storms, called Pamperos by the Buenos-ayreans, and Rebojos 
 by the Brazilians, blow furiously in here in winter, about the full and 
 change. They usually come on with a sudden gust, though the appearance 
 of the sky gives sufficient warning for some time first, and blow very hard 
 indeed for five or six hours, when the wind decreases, and a few days of 
 very fine weather succeed ; sometimes they draw round to the South and 
 S. E. before the wind abates, which renders it highly dangerous for a vessel 
 near the coast. As the water is shoal there is a deep ground swell, 
 which sets a ship very fast in-shore. It may be as well to observe that 
 the signals are made in palms, each palm being 9 inches. I am aware that 
 the proper Portuguese palm is somewhat less, but 9 inches is always the 
 calculation made here for the draught of water." 
 
 The signals, to be hoisted at the fore topgallant mast-head, on making 
 the tower of Rio GRANDE DE SAN PEDRO, in 1836, were as follow :
 
 302 
 
 A white pendant signifies 7 palms, or 5 feet 3 inches English. 
 
 A blue pendant, 8 palms, or 6 feet. 
 
 A red pendant, 9 palms, or 6 feet 9 inches. 
 
 A white flag, 10 palms, or 7 feet 6 inches. 
 
 A blue flag, 10^ palms, or 7 feet 10| inches. 
 
 A red flag, 1 1 palms, or 8 feet 3 inches. 
 
 A white flag over a blue flag, 1 1 1 palms, or 8 feet 7^ inches. 
 
 A blue flag over a white flag, 12 palms, or 9 feet. 
 
 A white flag over a red flag, 12| palms, or 9 feet 4^ inches. 
 
 A red flag over a white flag, 13 palms, or 9 feet 9 inches. 
 
 A blue flag over a red flag, 13^ palms, or 10 feet 1^ inches. 
 
 A red flag over a blue flag, 14 palms, or 10 feet 6 inches. 
 
 A blue pendant over a white flag, 14 J palms, or 10 feet 10^ inches. 
 
 A white flag over a blue pendant, 15 palms, or 11 feet 3 inches. 
 
 A blue pendant over a blue flag, 15| palms, or 11 feet 7^ inches. 
 
 A blue flag over a blue pendant, 16 palms, or 12 feet. 
 
 A blue pendant over a red flag, 16^ palms, or 12 feet 4| inches. 
 
 A red flag over a blue pendant, 17 palms, or 12 feet 9 inches. 
 
 From the bar of St. Pedro to Cape Santa Maria, or St. Mary, at the 
 entrance of the river Plata, the distance is 60 leagues ; between the coast 
 is generally low and flat. In the parallel of 34 20' are the Castelhos, or 
 Castellos Grandes rocks, and 9 leagues to the north of which are the Cas- 
 telhos Chicos. From the Castelhos Grandes to Cape St. Mary, the distance 
 is seven leagues ; from Cape St. Mary to the east point of Maldonado, the 
 bearing and distance are S. W. f W., 14 leagues. 
 
 The following directions were published from the Department State, at 
 Washington, on the 16th July, 1842. All vessels bound to Rio Grande of 
 San Pedro do Sul, coming from the north, should keep in 6, and 6| fathoms 
 of water, until they bring the tower to bear N. N. W., when they will see 
 the pilot boat on the bar, and the tower, with a red flag hoisted, which is 
 the signal to approach the bar to enter; if the flag on the tower is hauled 
 down, vessels should lay off and on until it is again hoisted, and, when they 
 cannot get in, they should keep under sail if the wind is from N. to N. E. 
 The winds that prevail, generally, after mid-day to dark, are E. N. E. to 
 East, from December to April ; and, when unable to get in during these 
 months, they can anchor in 7 or 7^ fathoms of water, bringing the tower to 
 bear N. N. W. If preferred to keep under-way, ought not to approach 
 the shore to less water than 7 or 6^ fathoms, and to stand to sea as far as 
 14 fathoms water. 
 
 Vessels coming from the south should keep in 6 fathoms water, until 
 the tower bears North, the wind being from West to S. E. ; the course in 
 is North and South with the tower. If not able to enter, and wishing to 
 anchor, it should be in 7 fathoms, the tower bearing North and South ; 
 this from May to November, when the prevailing winds are West to S. E. 
 Vessels should not draw over 16 to 17 palms bound to this place. The 
 wind being from S. W. to S. E. is the highest water on the bar. 
 
 The preceeding directions are good, so long as the bar remains to the 
 southward, but it happens that every 4 or 5 years it changes, and will 
 next be S. E. and E. S. E. When the red flag is hoisted, it is a signal for 
 vessels to approach the bar ; if on the tower another flag is hoisted to the 
 south, the vessel should sail further south, until it is hauled down, in like 
 manner, if a second is hoisted to the north, and a vessel is to the south, she 
 should sail further to the north. If no flag is hoisted on the tower, vessels 
 will stand off and on, or anchor, as already described. Navigating during 
 the night, along the coast, the bottom, both to the north and south, is sand
 
 303 
 
 of different kinds, but muddy bottom is in front of the bar, and a vessel 
 should keep within as short a distance as it is practicable. 
 Bar of Rio Grande, April 15th, 1842. 
 
 (Signed) IZIDORO DA COSTA B OLIVEIRA, 
 
 Inspector of the Bar, for the Province of de San Pedro do Sul. 
 N.B. The palm is about 9 English inches. The signals, for vessels to 
 hoist, are the same as hitherto. When crossing the bar, vessels should 
 follow the pilot boat, and luff or fall off in the direction the flag is pointed 
 by the boat. 
 
 RIO DE LA PLATA. 
 
 GENERAL DIRECTION. Vessels bound to the Rio de le Plata should 
 make the land of Cape St. Mary, in latitude 34 40' S., and longitude 53 
 56' "W. ; this may be considered the northernmost point of entrance to the Rio 
 de la Plata ; the point is low, with several rocks about it, and the direction 
 of the coast, to the westward of it, is more westerly than at any other 
 part northward of it. About 6 miles north of it is a house, and a row of 
 trees is to the northward of the house, which are very remarkable ; a mile 
 S. of this house is a bluff point, with a few rocks at its foot, which, being 
 different from the rest of the coast, will readily be distinguished : the general 
 character of the coast is a sandy beach. By these marks the Cape may be 
 easily known, when running down the coast near it ; between it and the 
 Palmarones, to the northward, there are 10 and 11 fathoms, at a little 
 distance from the shore. 
 
 It is advisable not to make the land to the northward of Cape St. Mary, 
 for although there appears no real danger, yet the water, in some places, is 
 shoal a long way off the land, and would alarm strangers ; but, in ap- 
 proaching the land, allowance must be made for the current, which sets to 
 the southward with N. and N.E. winds, and with S. E. winds the contrary. 
 
 WINDS, &c. Capt. Heywood observes " That at the entrance of the 
 river Plate, the prevailing winds during the summer months, from Septem- 
 ber to March, are north-easterly, with tolerably clear weather over head, 
 but a dense atmosphere near the horizon. These winds haul gradually to 
 the eastward as you advance up the river ; and, about the full and change 
 of the moon, strong breezes from the south-eastward are common at this 
 season, accompanied with rain and foul weather. At Buenos Ayres, du- 
 ring the summer months, the S. E. winds are generally fresh in the day- 
 time, hauling round to the northward in the night. 
 
 " During the winter months, from March to September, the prevailing 
 winds, at the entrance of the Plate, are S. W. or more westerly, but up 
 the river more generally from the northward than from the southward of 
 west. The winter season is the best in point of weather, at Buenos Ayres, 
 for the winds being chiefly from the N. "W. to S. W. the water is smooth, 
 and the communication can be kept up between the shore and the shipping 
 with more facility. The weather is sometimes, but not frequently, foggy. 
 Fogs are most common in the months of July, August, and September, and 
 prevail more at the entrance of the river, as far up as the S. E. tail of 
 the Ortiz, than above the banks. 
 
 TIDES, &c. "As it cannot be said that there are regular tides in the 
 river Plate, but currents, as uncertain in their duration as they are irregular 
 in the rate and direction, no certain allowance can be made for them ; 
 therefore a ground log should always be used, to find the course made good
 
 304 
 
 and distance run. The tides, speaking generally, when the weather is fine 
 and settled, and the winds moderate, do not, in any part of this river, rise 
 or fall more than five or six feet ; though at Buenos Ayres, at the distance of 
 eight miles from the city, we found in the Nereus, when the winds were 
 strong at N. "VV., so little sometimes as fifteen feet water ; while, with 
 strong breezes at E. S. E. to S. S. "W., the depth was upwards of five 
 fathoms; but, except on such extraordinary occasions, we had between 
 seventeen and twenty-two feet water. 
 
 " The river Plate has many singularities, which I think, may, in a great 
 measure, be accounted for from its formation being so different from any 
 other known river. Its entrance being very wide and very shallow, it is 
 affected by every change of the wind in a most extraordinary manner ; so 
 much so, that a shift of wind may be predicted almost to a certainty, by ob- 
 serving carefully the state of the mercury in a barometer, and the set of the 
 currents, which usually shift before the wind. In calm weather the cur- 
 rents are generally very slack ; and then as regular almost, as tides, setting 
 up and down the river alternately. When the winds are variable, the cur- 
 rents are equally so ; and I have known the ship to be current-rode four 
 different ways in less than six hours. When the current comes in from the 
 eastward, along the north bank of the Plate, a north-easterly wind may 
 generally be expected to follow ; and at the same time (should the wind 
 have been previously to the S. E.) the mercury in the barometer will fall a 
 little ; but much more if the transition be quick from south-west, without 
 stopping in the south-eastern quarter. 
 
 " When the wind continues in the north-east quarter, the mercury is 
 more depressed (according to its strength) than with any other wind, and 
 there is usually then, a set into the river on the north bank, and out on the 
 opposite. Indeed, whilst the winds are between N. E. and S. S. E., the 
 current generally runs to the westward past Monte Video, though without 
 much augmenting the depth of the water of that place, but filling the river 
 above the banks. 
 
 " The winds between N. N. E. and W. N. W. make the water lowest, 
 the outset being then strongest along the south bank of the river, past 
 the Points del Indio and Memoria ; but very inconsiderable along the north 
 bank. 
 
 " Before the setting in of a S. W. gale, or pampero, the weather is 
 commonly very unsettled, and the winds unsteady, and variable in the 
 northern and north-western boards, preceded by a considerable fall in the 
 mercury, though it usually rises a little again before the wind shifts to the 
 south-west ; and often continues to rise, even though the wind may increase 
 from that quarter. 
 
 " Before these winds set in at Buenos Ayres, the current runs up and fills 
 the river unusually high ; at the same time as strong an out-set is ex- 
 perienced along the north-bank, which continues whilst the winds are 
 strongest from W. S. W. to South, seeming to prove that these winds force 
 up from the southward, a large accumulated body of water past Cape St. 
 Antonio, which can only find a passage out again by the north shore, where 
 they increase the depth of water, as well as up the river, and particularly 
 in the shallow harbour of Monte Video. Whilst the S. W. winds blow, the 
 air is cold, and the atmosphere clear and elastic, in a degree rarely to be 
 met with in any other part of the world. They are generally succeeded 
 by some days of fine serene weather ; the wind continuing moderate from 
 the southward, or varying to the eastward. 
 
 " I have never known the velocity of the tide or current, in the river 
 Plate, anywhere to exceed three knots, per hour; but I have heard it
 
 305 
 
 said by some, that they have found it run at the rate of 6 or 7 miles an 
 hour. 
 
 " As the winds, outside the river Plate, and particularly about Cape St. 
 Mary, are most frequently from the north-eastward and northward, except 
 when the S. E. summer and S. W. winter gales blow, about the times of 
 new and full moon. I consider it, on the whole, as most advisable, for 
 ships bound into the river, to get in with the land about the latitude of 
 that cape, which is 34 40' S., and its longitude 53 54' W. of Greenwich, 
 or 2 9' E. of Monte Video. 
 
 SOUNDINGS. " In latitude 33 S. the bank of soundings extends, off 
 the land, full thirty-six leagues ; where the depth of water, in longitude 
 50 20' W., is ninety-four fathoms, and the quality of the bottom dark 
 olive-coloured mud, or ooze, as it is all along the outermost verge of 
 the bank.* 
 
 " In latitude 31 S., and thirty leagues from the land, the bank is steep, 
 and the soundings decrease quickly, in standing to the westward, to twenty- 
 five fathoms twenty leagues from the land. 
 
 "In latitude 34 20' S., and longitude 51 50' W., or about thirty 
 leagues east of the Great Castelhos rock, the depth is sixty-three or sixty- 
 four fathoms, dark mud. In standing in for the land, between the Great 
 Castelhos and Cape St. Mary, the water shoals, in a short distance, from 
 sixty to twenty-five fathoms, and the quality of the bottom changes to 
 sand, which becomes coarser as you approach the coast, and, as far as 
 seven leagues off the shore, is intermixed with shells. This bottom is found 
 only in, and to the northward of, the latitude of Cape St. Mary, except 
 very close in with it. 
 
 " To the southward of 34 40' S. the bottom is chiefly mud, intermixed 
 with fine sand or gravel ; and if a ship happen to be set to the southward 
 of Cape St. Mary, as she hauls in for the land, yet keeps to the northward 
 of Lobos, she will get out of fine sand into dark mud, which is the quality 
 of the bottom (chiefly) between Cape St. Mary and Lobos, as well as eight 
 or nine leagues to the eastward of that island ; and, the depth of water, 
 between them, is generally 26 to 20 fathoms. 
 
 " In latitude 35 S., and longitude 52 W., or forty-two leagues true 
 east of Lobos, there are about ninety fathoms of water, dark sandy bottom, 
 from whence the bank of soundings takes a S. W. direction. East of Lobos, 
 twenty-seven leagues, the depth is twenty-five fathoms ; and in steering 
 in, on its parallel, the same depth nearly continues till very near that 
 island. But, if set a little to the southward of Lobos, the water will shoal 
 even to ten fathoms, perhaps, on a hard, sandy, or gravelly ridge, that ex- 
 tends all the way from the English bank, in its parallel, as far as longitude 
 52 30' W., or full 1 8 leagues to the eastward of the meridian of Lobos. 
 
 "Thus the approach to this river cannot be considered dangerous, if 
 proper care be taken in navigating, and due attention paid to the lead, and 
 to the course steered." 
 
 The following are the Honourable Captain Bouverie's description of 
 
 * LAUREL SHOAL, OFF THE Rio DE LA PLATA. The Laurel, M'Donald, from London to 
 Valparaiso, put into the river Plate, on the 19th June, 1822, having been obliged to bear up, to 
 repair some damage sustained by a heavy sea breaking on board her. The master reports as 
 follows: That on the 15th June, discovered a shoal, in latitude 36 28' S., longitude 51 30' 
 W. : that it appeared to be about a mile long, and the same in breadth, with a breaking very 
 high over it ; that it had the appearance of sand, and little water on it. He passed within half 
 a mile, and then hove-to, sounding with 90 fathoms of line, and found no bottom. He farther 
 states, that he had a good chronometer on board, and was six miles out of his longitude when 
 he made the port of Monte Video. 
 
 Q Q
 
 30G 
 
 Cape St. Mary, &c., which I believe to be very correct, and his directions 
 judicious : " Cape St. Mary is a bluff point, with a few rocks all about it. 
 The direction of the coast, to the westward of the cape, becomes more 
 westerly than at any other part northward of it. About six miles north 
 of it is a house, with a row of trees northward of the house, (probably a 
 fence of high prickly pear-bushes) which is very remarkable. 
 
 " About a mile south of the house is a bluff point, with a few rocks at its 
 foot, which is remarkable, being different from the rest of the coast, the 
 general character of which is a sandy beach. One cannot fail knowing the 
 cape by these marks, running down the coast near it ; if you are at any 
 great distance off, you will not perceive them. The water, off Cape St. 
 Mary, is shoaler than to the northward ; to the north-eastward of the 
 cape, between it and the islet Paloma, you have ten or eleven fathoms, at 
 a little distance from the shore. 
 
 " Ships, in general, make the land with North or N. E. winds, therefore, 
 it is best to keep in the latitude of the cape, or a little to the northward of 
 it, till you get soundings, as the current sets to the S. W. It is better 
 not to make the land north of the cape, not that I believe there is any 
 absolute danger, but the water, in many places, is shoal a long way off the 
 land, and would alarm any one not acquainted with that circumstance. 
 
 " In latitude 33 27' S., and longitude 52 9' W., is a shoal, where we 
 found 9 fathoms of water ; I believe it is a ridge running, in that parallel 
 of latitude, all the way to the shore. In latitude 34 S. is some tolerably 
 high land, on which is a Spanish fortress, called fort Teresa. It is square, 
 with bastions at the angles ; it has three guns in the face, and one in the 
 flank, and stands about a mile from the beach. About 6 leagues N. N. E. 
 from it is a mark set up, as the termination of the Spanish territories. 
 
 " Being in the latitude of Cape St. Mary, and having got ground in 28 
 or 30 fathoms of water, fine sand and shells, you may reckon yourself 
 twenty leagues off shore ; with from 15 to 20 fathoms, sand and clay mixed, 
 you are not far off the land. When you have not seen the land before 
 night, be sure to keep to the northward of the cape by your reckoning, to 
 allow for the current, which sets to the southward. This is the case with 
 the above-mentioned North and N. E. winds ; with South and S. W. winds 
 the current runs strong the other way. 
 
 " I am inclined to think that the strong north-easterly currents, which 
 are to be met with off the mouth of the Plata, when the wind is about to 
 blow, or blowing, from the south-westward, do not extend much, if at all, 
 beyond the bank of soundings." 
 
 Agreeing in opinion with Captain Bouverie, that, generally speaking, it 
 is advisable to make the land about Cape St. Mary, I would also recom- 
 mend, if the wind should be anywhere between S. E. and N. N. E. to enter 
 the river on the north side of the English bank, passing Lobos, on either 
 side, according to the wind and state of the weather. There is a good 
 passage between Lobos and the main, having 17 to 14 fathoms water. 
 
 The island of Lobos is in latitude 35 1' S., and longitude 54 39' W., 
 or 1 24' East of the Monte Video ; it bears about S. W., by the world, 
 from Cape St. Mary, distance forty-one miles. The variation off it, is 13 
 Easterly (1813). 
 
 When within three or four leagues of Cape St. Mary, in 17 or 18 
 fathoms, S. S. W., by compass, is a fair course to steer for passing outside 
 of Lobos, in the night time, for, with the wind from the Eastward, or N. E., 
 the set along shore into the river must be guarded against. Steering this 
 S. S. W. course, the depth of water will increase to 20 and 22, and some 
 casts, perhaps, of 25 or 27 fathoms, (if you are set neither to the westward
 
 307 
 
 nor to the southward of it) and the bottom will change, first to sandy mud, 
 and then to dark-blue mud, as you approach the latitude of Lobos. If you 
 are set to the southward, in steering S. S. YV. you will not deepen so much ; 
 the bottom will keep sandy, and when you approach the latitude of Lobos, 
 you will have no more than 19, 18, and 17 fathoms; but if you are set to 
 the southward of Lobos a few miles, you will have hard casts of from 16 
 to 10 fathoms, and may rest assured of being on the parallel of the English 
 bank, and may therefore make a west northerly course, true, till you find 
 the bottom soften, as it is all dark -blue or greenish mud, in the channel, 
 between the foul ridge of the English bank and the north shore, all the 
 way up to Monte Video, in the fair-way from Lobos. When off Lobos, if 
 the weather threaten, and it should be likely to blow, a ship will find safe 
 anchorage in the harbour of Maldonado, sheltered from southerly winds 
 by the island of Goritti, which bears N. 42 W., true, 11 or 12 miles from 
 Lobos. As I have never been in Maldonado myself, I shall insert here 
 what Captain Bouverie says about it. 
 
 MALDONADO BAY. "The Spanish surveys of this bay lay down 
 a sufficient depth of water for any ship between every part of the island 
 and the main ; however, it cannot be safely entered, but by small vessels, 
 except to the westward, and you must not go farther in than to bring the 
 N. W. point of Goritti to bear S. S. W. W., O r S. W. by S. by compass, 
 with 4| or 5 fathoms, good strong clay. With southerly winds there is, 
 in the east passage, a heavy swell, and the water, from the ground being 
 uneven, breaks almost the whole way across, in bad weather. The 
 Diomede (fifty gun ship) passed through to the anchorage before its dan- 
 gers were known, and had not less than eighteen feet ; but there are places 
 where there is so little as 1^ fathom, and it is very irregular. There is a 
 bed of rocks to the south of Goritti ; the marks for it are, the tower of 
 Maldonado, North, and the outer part of Point del Este, E. N. E ^ E. 
 
 " In the direct line of the entrance of the bay, from the westward, is a 
 bed of rocks where there are parts having only three and quarter-less 3 
 fathoms. The bearings, taken on the rocks, are N. E. point of Goritti E. 
 S. ; N. W. point of ditto, E. by S. ! S. ; S. W. point of ditto, S. E. by 
 S. ; Point Ballena, W. by N. ^ N. ; the hill of Pan de Azucar, just within 
 the extreme of Point Ballena. 
 
 " In mid-channel, between these rocks and the island, are 6^ and 7 
 fathoms ; their distance from the island is about three-quarters of a mile. 
 There are seven fathoms close to them all round the western side. The 
 watering-place is on the main, close by a battery ; the stream loses itself 
 in the sand, except when swollen by heavy rains, and you have to roll your 
 casks about sixty yards over the sands ; the water is very good." 
 
 LOBOS TO FLORES, &c. Having Lobos bearing N. by W., by 
 compass, distance three or four miles, you will have about 18 fathoms; and, 
 in making a compass course, W. ^ S., by ground log, (having due regard 
 to the wind and current at the time) you will make the island of Flores 
 ahead of you. In this track your soundings will gradually decrease from 
 18 to 12 fathoms, due south of Black point, and to 7 or 8 fathoms when 
 you approach within nine or ten miles of Flores. 
 
 Though Captain Bouverie says, " You may run quite up to Monte 
 Video, either by night or day, by making a due west course, first trying 
 the current to make allowance for it ;" and though I have frequently done 
 it myself, yet I would not recommend it as a general rule to be followed 
 by strangers to the river Plate. Great care and attention to the course 
 made good, and to the soundings, are indispensably requisite in those who 
 attempt to conduct vessels during the night, in any part of this river ; and
 
 308 
 
 even these have been but too often insufficient to save ships from destruc- 
 tion. But, in merchant vessels, I fear we cannot always expect to find 
 those qualities, and, therefore, I withhold my opinion of its being advisable 
 for them to run in the night ; neither can it be done by men-of-war 
 without some risk. 
 
 FLORES bears W. 4 30' N. (true) from Lobos, distant fifty-two miles. 
 It lies nearly N. E. and S. "W., has a small hummock in the middle, and 
 one at each end, that to the S. W. being thirty-nine feet high. Between 
 these the land is low and marshy, and overflowed sometimes between the 
 central and N. E. hummock. It may be seen at the distance of five or six 
 leagues from a ship's deck, in clear weather. 
 
 There is good anchorage all around this island ; but a reef extends in a 
 N. "W. direction from the north point about a mile. Seals and sea-lions, 
 and various aquatic birds resort to this small island, as well as to Lobos ; 
 and, in the months of August and September, great quantities of very 
 excellent eggs may be procured. With the wind easterly, boats may land 
 on the western side of Flores, particularly in a small cove, very near the 
 S. W. part of the island. 
 
 ENGLISH BANK. From Flores W. N. W. the Caretas rocks (above 
 water) are distant about five miles; and there are 5 fathoms between 
 them. True south, at the distance of eleven miles from Flores, is the 
 north part of the English bank, on which, in that latitude, 35 8' S., there 
 were about 12 feet water. The depth of water, between Flores and the 
 English bank, is 7 fathoms, all the way across, to within a very little dis- 
 tance of both. The English bank, in latitude 35 12', generally breaks; 
 and, with a low river, is above water in some places. Its extent to the 
 southward has not yet been accurately defined ; and, for seventy or eighty 
 miles to the south-eastward of it, the ground is said to be foul and uneven, 
 and has not been explored. 
 
 Between the Archimedes and the English bank there is a swatch of 5 
 fathoms water, (according to Captain Beaufort, of the Royal Navy, who 
 explored these banks in 1807) and as many miles wide. 
 
 The shoalest part of the Archimedes bank, about 2f fathoms, is four 
 miles in extent, about N. and S. by compass, and there are four fathoms 
 all round it. The centre of it is in latitude 35 12' S., and the Monte 
 Video bears N. 22 W. from it, distant twenty miles. Besides this 
 bank there is a small knoll, in latitude 35 14' S., which is true south from 
 the Monte Video, twenty-one miles, and has not more than 3^ fathoms 
 of water on it, and about 4 fathoms all round it. 
 
 MONTE VIDEO. Passing to the southward of Flores, at the distance 
 of a couple of miles, you have 65 or 7 fathoms, and may steer TV. ^ S., by 
 compass, to pass Point Braba, which bears true W. 4 N., distant four 
 leagues from the S. "W. end of Flores. This point is bolder too than the 
 land to the westward, between it and the town of Monte Video, and may 
 be passed close, in 4^ or 5 fathoms, at a mile or a mile and a half distance. 
 The best anchorage for a frigate, off the town of Monte Video, is with 
 Point Braba bearing, by compass, "W. by N. | N., the cathedral, N. E. by 
 N., and the Mount about N. W. by N., in 3| or 4 fathoms, two miles 
 or more from the town, with the harbour quite open. The bottom is all 
 soft mud. 
 
 The harbour of Monte Video is very shoal, having only from fourteen to 
 nineteen feet water ; but the bottom is so very soft that vessels receive no 
 damage by grounding there. Captain Bouverie says, " A S. S. W. wind, 
 which blows right into the harbour, and causes a good deal of sea, always 
 occasions the water to rise a fathom or more.
 
 309 
 
 " In a long continuance of fine weather, the tides sometimes assume the 
 appearance of regularity, but this is not often the case ; they are governed 
 entirely by the winds. The winds from the southward cause the water to 
 run out, on the north shore, strongest. Fine weather, and a N. W. wind, 
 make the water lowest. It is usual, in Monte Video harbour, to have an 
 anchor in the S. E., and another to the S. W., and to take one in abaft 
 from the northward, for the water, forced in by the southerly wind, some- 
 times rushes out with astonishing rapidity, when the anchorage to the 
 north is of the greatest service."* 
 
 The MOUNT VIDEO is in latitude 34 53' S., longitude 56 3' W. of 
 Greenwich ; being 1 24' W. of the island of Lobos, and 2 10' E. from 
 cathedral of Buenos Ayres. On the summit of this mount is a fortified 
 building, whose base is forty-two feet six inches by twenty feet, used 
 sometimes for a lighthouse ; the diameter of the lantern is ten feet six 
 inches, and its elevation, above the level of the sea, four hundred and fifty 
 feet. At the base of the mount are several runs of excellent water, par- 
 ticularly in two small, smooth, sandy bays, on the S. W. part of it, where 
 ships in the outer roads may supply themselves with ease ; and another 
 on the east side of the mount, just abreast of Rat island, adapted to ships 
 in the harbour. 
 
 Giving the preference to the passage on the south side of the English 
 bank, especially when the wind is anywhere between S. S. E. and N. N. E. 
 on passing Lobos, because it may be expected most probably to shift, if it 
 does at all, round by the north to the westward, though, perhaps, not 
 before that wind, and the inset together, might carry a ship up to Monte 
 Video. Yet if the wind should be to the north-westward, at the time of 
 making the land, it may be pretty confidently expected to shift next to the 
 "Westward or S. W. ; and, therefore, a ship should not strive to beat up, 
 round Lobos and the north channel, against an outset, but stand at once 
 over towards Cape St. Antonio, where, by the time she could stretch 
 across, she would most likely find a S. S. W. wind and N. W. current, to 
 run up with, along a weather shore to Buenos Ayres, or to Monte Video, 
 if bound thither, passing to the westward of the bank of Archimedes, in 
 about 5 fathoms water ; or, if the mount should be seen in good time, 
 never to bring it to bear to the westward of North, by compass, till within 
 five leagues of it. 
 
 In standing to the southward, from abreast of Cape St. Mary, with the 
 wind south-westerly, a ship will have from 18 to 24 or 25 fathoms when 
 in the latitude of Lobos, and about twelve or thirteen leagues to the east- 
 ward of it ; and making a S. S. E. course, the water will then shoal to 18, 
 16, 12, or 11 fathoms, in crossing the ridge, which is generally composed 
 
 * DECREES FROM MONTE VIDEO, 1836. " In consequence of the greater portion of the 
 foreign vessels -which arrive from ports in which consuls of the republic reside, and entering 
 their cargoes without having their manifests certified by the said consuls, the government, in 
 order to put a stop to a system so prpjudicial, have ordered and decreed : 
 
 " Art. 1. The captains of merchant-vessels proceeding from foreign ports, in which consuls 
 of the Republic reside, who present their manifest without being certified by the said consul, 
 will be subject to an additional duty of 6 per cent, on the value of the goods. 
 
 " 2. The decree of the 17th of January, 1834, remains in full force, respecting vessels 
 arriving from ports, in which no consul resides. 
 
 " 3. They except those from the foregoing vessels which arrive from free ports, to whatso- 
 ever nation they belong. 
 
 (Signed) OBEBE J. M. PEREZ. 
 
 J. M. BEYERS." 
 
 A second decree states that the enforcement of the above would, for vessels from Europe , 
 commence in April, 1836, as also for vessels from America.
 
 310 
 
 of sand, gray speckled, mixed with stones, hereabouts; after which the 
 depth increases gradually to 35 or 36 fathoms, over a sandy bottom, in 
 latitude 35 40' S., and longitude 53 25' W. In the latitude of 36 S., 
 and fifteen or twenty miles further to the eastward, you will deepen off the 
 bank entirely. A ship, having got as far to the southward as 36 S., may 
 consider herself in the fair-way for proceeding up on the south side of the 
 English bank ; and, if the wind serve, a true west course may be made 
 good. 
 
 In latitude 36 S. the depth of water, on the meridian of Cape St. Mary, 
 is 38 fathoms, and the bottom of fine gray sand, like ground pepper. 
 
 Keeping still to the westward, on that parallel of 36 S., the depth 
 decreases to 19 or 18 fathoms, true south of Lobos; and for ten leagues 
 farther you have from that to 15 fathoms. But if from the latitude of 
 36 S., on the meridian of Lobos, you make a "VV. by N., or W. by N. ^ N. 
 course, true, you will shoal the water to 8 or 7^ fathoms, in latitude 35 
 45' S., on the meridian of the English bank. The quality of the bottom, 
 generally in this track, is sandy, mixed with small stones ; and, the nearer 
 you approach to the ridge of the English bank, it is intermixed with bits 
 of shells, and sometimes with clay or mud. 
 
 From latitude 35 45' S., due S. of the English bank, a "W. N. W. true 
 course to latitude 35 33' S. will bring the Monte Video to bear North, 
 in about 6^ fathoms, mud, at the distance of thirteen leagues from Point 
 Piedras ; and, from this position, the same true course may be made to 
 raise the land about Point del Indio, if bound up to Buenos Ayres ; or 
 N. W., or more northerly, to get sight of the Mount Video ; having due 
 regard to the set of the current, up or down the river, that you may 
 neither be horsed on the S. E. tail of the Ortiz flats, nor on the western 
 part of the Archimedes bank. The bottom above this is soft mud, or clay, 
 in the channels fit for safe anchorage. In latitude 35 30' S., or there- 
 abouts, and due south of the Archimedes bank, or some miles further to 
 the eastward, I have been told by some persons they have had as little as 
 
 4 fathoms, hard ground. 
 
 POTOMAC BANK. "On the 13th December, 1839, the United States 
 frigate, Potomac, left Monte Video, with the wind E. S. E. at the time, and 
 while steering N. W. by N., by compass, believing themselves to be about 
 
 5 miles from the ravines of St. Gregory and St. Lucia, the leadsman having 
 at the previous minute got a cast in 4 fathoms, the ship ran aground in 17 
 feet water, drawing at the tune 20 feet 6 inches. She was cleared of every- 
 thing, excepting her ballast and lower masts, and, after remaining fast 
 until the 24th of December, by great exertions she was hove off S. by 
 W., their efforts to heave her off stern foremost having proved ineffectual, 
 and her tendency being to clear away the sand and mud forwards, where 
 she was less deeply immersed than aft; when she floated she drew 17 feet 
 
 6 inches. The wind was S. E. when she got off, fine weather, with a re- 
 markable high river. During the eleven days they were aground, the least 
 water they had alongside was 12 feet, the most (the day she hove off) 18 
 feet. The surface of the shoal consisted of a light coloured quicksand, but 
 about 3 feet was mud and shells. When the Potomac was aground the 
 true bearings of Santa Maria, and the ravines of St. Gregory and St. Lucia, 
 were N. "W. and N. E." Nautical Magazine for 1841, page 361. 
 
 MONTE VIDEO TO BUENOS AYRES. Ships leaving Monte 
 Video, to proceed up to Buenos Ayres, must be very attentive to the lead, 
 and the course steered across the river must be very carefully regulated by 
 the set of the current at the time. If the weather be sufficiently clear, the 
 mount is the most sure guide, keeping it, by an azimuth compass, on the
 
 311 
 
 magnetic bearing N. E. by N. ; and, when it sinks to an eye in the top, a 
 more westerly course may be steered, to raise the land about Point del 
 Indio. This direction is intended to apply particularly to frigates, or any 
 ships drawing more than fifteen feet water, because it is not advisable for 
 them to cross the tail of the Ortiz flats, much further to the westward than 
 a true S. W. course from the mount will take them ; for, with a low river, 
 I have had barely 3 fathoms, in the Nereus, with the mount bearing N. 
 35 E., by compass, distant ten leagues. At other times I have sunk the 
 mount on a N. 53 E. magnetic bearing, and had as much as 85 fathoms 
 water, but the river was then well filled. 
 
 On the south-eastern part of the Ortiz bank, which is there hard stony 
 sand, there is still remaining (1813) part of a mast, or beacon, about twelve 
 or thirteen feet high; it is in latitude 35 2' 15" S., and 45' West 
 of Mount Video, from which it bears W. 14 S., thirty-seven miles. 
 There is about twelve or thirteen feet alongside of it, 3 fathoms two miles 
 to the eastward of it, but not more than ten or twelve feet as far as 
 three miles S. W. of it. Point del Indio bears true S. 33 "W., sixteen 
 or seventeen miles from it. 
 
 For the distance of full seventeen miles to the south-eastward of the 
 Ortiz beacon there is, generally, no more, and often less, than 3| fathoms, 
 the bottom tough clay nearest the bank, and in some places farther to the 
 south-eastward, soft mud, not more than 3^ fathoms. 
 
 After sinking the mount about N. E. by N., and having 3^ fathoms, a 
 W. S. "W. course will raise the land (if the weather is clear) about Point 
 del Indio to the eye, at the mast-head, and probably you will not have 
 more than 3^, or, at best, 3| fathoms. The mount and land, near Point 
 del Indio, are sometimes visible at the same time. 
 
 Point del Indio is in latitude about 35 16' S., and 56' W. of the 
 Mount Video, from which it bears S. 63 W., distant fifty miles. There 
 is little more than 3 fathoms, at the distance of ten or eleven miles, when 
 the river is in a mean state; farther to the southward, and off Point 
 Piedras, there is only that depth fourteen or fifteen miles off shore. 
 Very great caution, therefore, is required in approaching it ; and a constant 
 look-out should be kept for the land, as it is very low, and cannot be seen 
 farther than twelve or thirteen miles, in any weather, from the deck of 
 a frigate. 
 
 When the land is barely raised to an eye nineteen or twenty feet above 
 the surface of the water, a W. N. W. magnetic course will lead along shore, 
 between it and the south part of the Ortiz, which is distant about fourteen 
 miles from it, and, between them, there is nowhere more water than 85, but 
 mostly 3^ fathoms. "With a high river I have had a quarter-less 4 fathoms : 
 the nearer the Ortiz the deeper the water. 
 
 In steering up "W. N. W., with the land seen from the deck, (if clear 
 weather) you will have 3|, or 3^ fathoms, (yet if the river is low, perhaps 
 some casts of 3 fathoms) and raise a remarkable clump of trees, called 
 Embudo, which are much taller than the rest, highest at the west end, and 
 lie in latitude 35 5' S., and in longitude 1 16' 30' West of the Mount 
 Video ; or 57' 30" East of the cathedral of Buenos Ayres. At some 
 distance to the westward of the Embudo trees there is another clump, about 
 the same height; but these being highest at the east end, are sufficiently 
 distinguished not to be mistaken for the true Embudo. 
 
 When in 3^, or 3^ fathoms, the Embudo trees bear, by compass, W. 
 S. W. ; the S. E. end of the Chico bank will bear W. N. W., or thereabouts, 
 ten or eleven miles from you; and you must now determine, from the 
 water your ship draws, and the then direction of the wind, and state of
 
 312 
 
 the weather, whether you will pass between the Chico and the shore, or 
 between the Ortiz and the Chico. 
 
 I have passed up and down several times between the Chico and the 
 south shore, in the Nereus, lightened in her draft to eighteen feet three 
 inches, but I would never attempt it again from choice ; now I am better 
 acquainted with the middle channel, between the Chico and the Ortiz, and 
 have every reason to believe that the middle ground, some Charts lay down 
 in it, does not exist. 
 
 A ship not drawing more than fifteen feet may take either passage ; and, 
 of the two, ought, perhaps, to prefer that to the southward of the Chico 
 bank, particularly if the wind should be well to the southward, as she 
 might take her soundings from the weather shore, and, keeping in some- 
 what more than her own draft, run up along it, and by not deepening 
 above 3 fathoms, would ensure being to the southward of the Chico. 
 
 CHICO BANKS, &c. The S. E. end of the Chico bank bears, from 
 the Embudo trees, N. 32 E., true, distant ten miles, and E. 9 N., thirteen 
 miles from Atalaya church ; its latitude there is 34 56' 30 ' S., and 
 longitude 1 9' W. of the Mount Video. This bank runs in the direction 
 of N. 52 W. true, or N. 65 W. by compass, about 13 miles to its N. W. 
 end, which is in latitude 34 48' 50' S., and 47' East of Buenos Ayres' 
 cathedral. From this N. W. end, in fourteen feet water, Atalaya church 
 bears S. 14 W., distant eleven miles; and Point Santiago, forming the 
 Ensenada de Barragan, bears W. 4 N., fourteen miles from it. The 
 breadth of the Chico does not exceed two miles, or perhaps a mile and a 
 half, and its inner edge is about nine miles from the shore. The water 
 between it and the shore is nowhere more than 3| fathoms, and the 
 deepest water is along the inner edge of the shoal, at the distance of half a 
 mile from it, or less in some places. About midway between it and the 
 shore there is a quarter-less 3 fathoms; on some parts of the Chico there 
 is very little water, and, within the limits I have assigned to it, nowhere 
 more than fourteen feet. 
 
 To ships drawing less than fifteen feet, it is only further necessary to 
 recommend care and attention on approaching Point St. lago, which forms 
 bushy and distinct ; and, when it is brought to bear to the south-westward, 
 haul out into the stream of 3| fathoms, to round outside the spit, which 
 runs about N. W., by compass, from Point St. lago, at least ten or eleven 
 miles; its extreme point, in 2 fathoms, being about five miles from the 
 shore. When two remarkable trees on Point Lara are brought to bear 
 S. by E. 5 E., or S. S. E., by compass, you are past the spit ; this mark 
 will also lead a ship of that draught of water clear to the westward of the 
 spit, in running in towards the Ensenada. 
 
 After passing the spit off Point St. lago, in 85 fathoms, a W. by N. 
 Northerly course, by compass, will lead up to the outer road of Buenos 
 Ayres, where any ship may safely anchor in the water she draws, if the 
 river is low. 
 
 Frigates, or any vessels drawing more than sixteen feet water, should 
 barely raise the land about Point del Indio to the eye on deck, and borrow 
 nearest the Ortiz, more particularly when the Embudo trees are brought 
 to bear as far as S. W. by W. (magnetic) ; for, with the Embudo bearing 
 from S. W. to S. S. W., the bottom is flat, off" to three fathoms, full seven 
 miles from the shore, and chiefly hard clay. Therefore, when the Embudo 
 trees bear W. S. W., by compass, and you are about nine or ten miles off 
 shore, in 3 fathoms, if you have a leading wind, haul to the N. W. by W., 
 or more Northerly, as may be required to clear the S. E. tail of the Chico, 
 and you will soon deepen your water to four fathoms, and more, in the middle
 
 313 
 
 channel, between the Chico and the Ortiz shoal. The fair course through, 
 between them, is about N. W. by W. ^ W. (magnetic) and, in mid-channel, 
 the land can but just be distinguished from the quarter-deck of a frigate. 
 When the Embudo trees bear S. 20 W., by compass, you will be abreast 
 of the S. E. end of the Chico, and may either take your shoal soundings 
 along its northern, or outer edge, to about a quarter-less four, if the wind 
 is southerly ; or, if the wind be northerly, or easterly, borrow into a con- 
 venient depth along the southern edge of the Ortiz. I believe the breadth 
 of this middle channel may be five or six miles, and the depth of water 
 from 4 to 5g and even 6 fathoms, in the fair-way, about the N. W. part of 
 it, and abreast that end of the Chico. The quality of the ground, all the 
 way through this channel, is generally soft mud, and fit for safe anchorage. 
 
 BUENOS AYRES. The N. W. pitch of the Chico bank being passed, 
 and the depth of water 5 or 5^ fathoms, you may steer, by compass, 
 W. by N. ^ N., or W. by N., for Buenos Ayres, taking care not to shoal 
 under quarter-less four, off Ensenada, till point Lara trees bear S. S. E. 
 
 A little more than half-way from Point Lara to Buenos Ayres there are 
 two other remarkable trees ; when moored off Buenos Ayres, in the Nereus, 
 in 19 feet water, and the bottom soft mud, these trees bore, by compass, 
 S. 17 E. ; the cathedral S. 67 W. ; and the spire of the Recoleta convent 
 S. 76 W. ; the latitude observed 34 34-' 30 ' S., and the longitude, by the 
 moon, 58 2' "W. of Greenwich. Variation of the compass 12^ Easterly, 
 at the distance of eight miles from the cathedral. 
 
 Observations on the anchorage off Buenos Ayres, by Mr. R. Thompson, 
 Master of H. M. S. Imogene. Nautical Magazine, April, 1838, page 222. 
 "On the 22nd October, 1836, we left Montevideo for Buenos Ayres, with 
 a pilot on board. At Monte Video moorings are laid down for the pilot 
 schooner, which lies with Point Indio bearing S. TV. by S. (compass) ten 
 or eleven miles, and she generally keeps a light at her mast-head. This is 
 a good guide for vessels passing up, enabling them to shape a course 
 between the Chico and Ortiz banks ; or, in passing down the river, it 
 enables them to shape a course clear of the east end of the Ortiz, or for 
 clearing the English bank. In fact, if the vessel can be made, she will 
 always give a sure departure, a most desirable object in this uncertain river. 
 
 " On leaving Monte Video, and bound for Buenos Ayres, if the pilot 
 schooner be not seen where and when the pilot expects to see her, there 
 cannot be a doubt of her having left her moorings, or that the vessel is not 
 in a proper place. At the time we expected to see her (which was mid- 
 night, and we burnt several blue lights, as well as fired several guns, in 
 order to draw their attention) she was at Buenos Ayres. 
 
 " Having missed the vessel, or being unable to find her, I would 
 strongly recommend anchoring until day-light, and taking a departure 
 from Point Indio, or the Embudo trees, all well described in the sailing 
 directions of this place. 
 
 " On the 23rd we anchored off Buenos Ayres, with the cathedral bearing 
 S. W. by AV. ; Point Guilmas S. by E. \ E., about seven miles from the 
 shore ; and, on the 25th, shifted our berth nearer the shore two miles, and 
 moored with best bower E. S. E., small bower W. N. W., fifty fathoms 
 each, Buenos Ayres Mill bearing S. W. ^ S. ; this is a better anchorage 
 than when we left, as there is generally four and sometimes six feet more 
 water, and it is full two miles nearer the shore. 
 
 " I cannot say much in favour of the anchorage here, as it is open to all 
 points of the compass, and a great distance from the shore ; in fact, the 
 communication with the shore is, at all times, very uncertain, and they are 
 frequently three days without sending a boat ; even when they are sent 
 
 R R
 
 314 
 
 there is great uncertainty attending their return for a day or two. While 
 we lay here (eight weeks) we found the mooring swivel of great use ; it 
 was well tried during the heavy gales we rode out. The prevailing winds 
 were E. and N. E. ; the tides are very irregular, but, at times, running as 
 much as 3A miles an hour : we had from 19 to 25 feet water." 
 
 The following are the PORT CHARGES, entrance at Buenos Ayres. 
 
 Foreign Vessels. 
 
 Dollars.* 
 
 National and English. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Eeals. | 
 
 Per Ton 
 
 1 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 Per Ton 
 
 55 
 
 6 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 55 
 
 : 
 55 \ 
 
 Health visit 
 
 Health visit 
 
 Copy of Regulations 
 of Port 
 
 Copy of Regulations 
 of Port 
 
 
 
 Clearance. 
 
 Per Ton 
 
 1 
 12 
 
 Per Ton 
 
 55 
 
 6 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Health visit 
 
 Health visit 
 
 Muster-Roll of ships 
 Commnv , 
 
 
 N. B. Vessels which neither load nor discharge, pay one half the 
 charges, besides the health visit, on arriving, and the health certificate on 
 clearing (addition since August 1st, 1833); vessels of three masts pay 
 ninety dollars, and those of two masts fifty dollars pilotage, on entering 
 and clearing from the inner roads, although they do not demand a pilot. 
 
 PILOT CHARGES. 
 
 For vessels drawing 
 Burgos feet. 
 
 From C.S.Mary to 
 Monte Video. 
 
 From Monte Video to 
 Ensenada and Buenos 
 Ayres. 
 
 From Cape St. Mary 
 and C. S. Antonio to 
 Buenos Ayres. 
 
 20 
 
 720 
 
 900 
 
 1140 
 
 19 
 
 600 
 
 780 
 
 1050 
 
 18 
 
 540 
 
 660 
 
 960 
 
 17 
 
 480 
 
 570 
 
 840 
 
 16 
 
 420 
 
 480 
 
 750 
 
 15 
 
 360 
 
 420 
 
 660 
 
 14 
 
 300 
 
 360 
 
 570 
 
 13 
 
 240 
 
 270 
 
 480 
 
 12 
 
 210 
 
 240 
 
 420 
 
 11 
 
 180 
 
 210 
 
 360 
 
 10 
 
 150 
 
 180 
 
 300 
 
 " All vessels drawing more than 10 feet must take a pilot on clearing, 
 and in case of refusing so to do, the captain will be obliged to pay one 
 
 * The Dollar here mentioned is paper, value about 7Jd.
 
 315 
 
 half of the pilot charges, to which he is liable; he also will pay the same, 
 who on entrance, shall have refused to take a pilot, the same having been 
 offered to him, with a list of pilot charges above stated. 
 
 " The outer and inner roads are, in fact, open roadsteads, neither of 
 them possessing good anchorage ; a strong wind from E. or S. E. blowing 
 almost direct on land, is dangerous to those in the inner roads, and they 
 frequently drive. 
 
 " It is said that the winter season is much better for shipping than the 
 summer, as in the latter the winds are more from the eastward. Good 
 anchors and cables are very necessary in the river Plate, chain cables 
 particularly. 
 
 " In addition to the difficulty of large vessels getting up the river, an 
 adequate freight cannot be procured for them; but vessels of 150 to 200 
 tons, are the most likely to get employed. 
 
 " Vessels discharge and take in their cargoes by means of lighters, called 
 Balandias ; should there be the least swell upon the water, these lighters 
 cannot lie alongside. Boat-hire is dear, to the outer roads 25 shillings 
 (English). 
 
 "The climate, considered generally, is decidedly good. The spring 
 months of September, October, November, and those of autumn, April 
 and May, are the most agreeable parts of the year. During the former, 
 we have had some days of oppressive heat, the thermometer ranging from 
 69 to 85 in the shade. When the heat is at the greatest, a pampero 
 frequently follows, with its accompaniments of rain, thunder, and lightning. 
 These winds from W. to S. W. blow with great violence ; being off the 
 land, they are not very dangerous to shipping, but the thunder and light- 
 ning by which they are accompanied is terrific. A north wind in summer is 
 very unpleasant, the heated atmosphere relaxing both mind and body ; ad- 
 ded to this, ships are swarmed with mosquitoes and numerous other insects. 
 
 " The beach of Buenos Ayres well deserves its nickname of Wapping, 
 being crowded with sailors of all nations, grog-shops, stores, &c. In no 
 part of the world are masters of merchant vessels subject to such annoy- 
 ance from the desertion of their crews. There are crimps here who conceal 
 them in the town, or send them to the country, and afterwards exact their 
 own price from those who are in want of sailors. 
 
 " The necessaries of life are abundant, and reasonable in price. The beef 
 is good, but much inferior to English. Vegetables are at all times dear ; 
 potatoes imported to pay a duty of 50 per cent, and the growth of this 
 invaluable vegetable is not in anyway encouraged : I have known them 
 sell at 8d. per Ib. In summer meat will not keep beyond a day. We have 
 been obliged to throw overboard some hundred pounds of beef, slaughtered 
 not more than twelve hours. The poultry is not of the best description. 
 Fish is very inferior, but plenty may be caught alongside. We had no 
 opportunity of trying the seine 
 
 " Fuel is scarce in Buenos Ayres, as it is not a woody country. Coals are 
 imported from England. 
 
 " The export consists of ox hides of all descriptions, horse hides, horse 
 hair, wool, tallow, nutkea, skins, horns, chinchilla skins, and salted beef, 
 (the latter sent chiefly to the Havanna and Brazils) and a small quantity 
 of silver in bars. Of late years the wool trade has greatly increased. The 
 quantity of European goods annually imported is very great. The cargoes 
 brought from Liverpool, of manufactured goods of Manchester, Glasgow, 
 &c., are of considerable value, often amounting to 100,000. 
 
 " The state of the tides sometimes causes great delay to vessels leaving 
 the inner roads, days, and even a week being lost at some periods.
 
 316 
 
 " Landing at Buenos Ayres is very bad ; heavy boats cannot get near. 
 Carts are used to embark and disembark, there seldom being -water suffi- 
 cient for boats to go close in, and they are at all times liable to serious 
 damage from the pieces of rock, wrecks, &c., so near the shore. The cart- 
 men charge one dollar (paper money equal to 7|d.) each trip. 
 
 LANDFALLS, on approaching the Rio PLATA, as described by CAPTAIN 
 BARRAL. These are three; the Cape Santa Maria, the Isle Lobos, and 
 Cape San Antonio. 
 
 Of Cape Sta. Maria the position, determined on land, has been found to be 
 in latitude 34 39' 1" S., longitude 54 5' W. nearly. The variation of the 
 needle, Feb., 1831, 11 7' E. Although of very moderate elevation, this 
 cape may be known by the vicinity of two islets, named Tuna and Paloma, 
 which are separated from each other by a space of 43 fathoms in extent, 
 and which forms a passage for small vessels, drawing less than 10 feet of 
 water ; this is the entrance to a cove, sheltered by the cape and the two 
 islets, wherein 7 or 8 vessels may lie in 1 1 or 12 feet. The islet Tuna, 
 the nearest to the cape, is covered with the prickly pear. On coming from 
 the offing there will be seen an extensive sand-down, steep-to, followed by 
 a very low beach. To the north, on a hill, is seen a groupe of houses ; 
 near these are some trees, and around are several inclosures. The coast 
 to the north forms a large bay, of 14 miles in extent, with a point encircled 
 by the islets Palmarones and Castillos. The resemblance of the point to 
 that of Cape Sta. Maria has caused several wrecks ; from this reason the 
 bay has been called False bay. At two miles to the east of Castillos are 
 14 fathoms of water, bottom of sand. From the islets of Cape Sta. Maria, 
 at the distance, are 10 fathoms with sand, or sand and gravel; to the 
 south, at three miles, 18 fathoms, sand ; and to the S. W., 16 to 20 fathoms, 
 bottom of ooze. 
 
 Lobos or Seal island is situate in latitude 35 0' 51" S., and longitude 54 
 49' 22" "W. ; it is not a mile in extent, but may be seen 15 or 16 miles off, 
 The eastern part must be avoided, because a chain of reefs extend three 
 miles from it, into the offing. Large ships pass safely through the channel 
 between the isle and main, in 15 and 16 fathoms of water. 
 
 Cape San Antonio. Under this name we comprehend a line of hillocks, 
 composed of sand, extending to the east and the south, and terminating 
 on the west by a very low coast, covered with shrubs or small trees. 
 The position, determined from the anchorage, is given as latitude 36 19' 
 36'' S., longitude 56 42' 22" W. Variation of the needle, December, 1831, 
 1 3 30' E. Th e point determined is at the division between the sand-hills and 
 verdant shore. The cape is surrounded by a sand -bank, which frequently 
 breaks at a considerable distance from shore ; it extends to the north and 
 east, and should not be approached without caution. 
 
 DESCRIPTION. The MOUTH of the RIO DE LA PLATA, between 
 the east point of Maldonado on the north, to Cape St. Antonio on the 
 south, is 42 leagues in breadth. The bearing from one to the other is S. 
 "W. ^ S. \jS. W. f W.~\ An extensive bank, with several shoals upon it, 
 occupies the greater portion of this space ; but there is a channel both to 
 the northward and southward of the bank, of which that to the northward, 
 about 5 leagues broad, in its narrowest part, is the chief. 
 
 The narrow rocky islet, LOBOS, mentioned above, with a cluster of rocks 
 extending from it to the eastward, lies at the distance of 5 miles, S. E. ^ E. 
 VS. E. 5 S.~\ from the eastern point of Maldonado, in latitude 35 1' S. At 
 18 leagues W. f S. \_ W. $ N^ from Lobos, is another small isle, FLORES, 
 in latitude 34 56' 20" S., now rendered conspicuous by a lighthouse ; it ex- 
 hibits a brilliant light, with revolving eclipses. It stands on the highest
 
 317 
 
 S. TV. part of the isle, whereof the height above the level of the sea is 63 
 palms or 45 feet. The height of the lantern is 75 palms or 54 feet, so that 
 the total height is 138 palms, or 99 English feet. To the westward of 
 Flores, distant 16 miles, is the port of Monte Video, on the western side of 
 which, upon the summit of the mount, is another lighthouse, 478 feet above 
 the sea. 
 
 On a S. W. line from Monte Video the river contracts its breadth to 
 that of 56 miles, where Ponta de Piedras, or Rocky point, presents its face to 
 the east. At four leagues higher, in latitude 35 16' S., longitude 57 6' TV., 
 is Point Indio, distinguished by trees ; and at about 22 miles above, or to 
 the north-westward of this, is the village of Magdalena, with several Es- 
 tancias or cattle farms Ten miles above Magdalena is the Atalaya church ; 
 and, at 4| leagues higher is Point S. logo and the Ensenada, or Careening 
 place of Barrogan, which are 9 leagues below Buenos Ayres. On all the 
 coast between Point Piedras and Point S. lago the water is shoal to a con- 
 siderable distance from shore, with 3 to 2 fathoms, hard ground. 
 
 Extensive banks, called the ORTIZ (or Orthes) and CHICO, occupy a 
 great portion of the central part of the river, north-westward of Point Pi- 
 edras, and they form three channels, of which the deepest is the middle one, 
 between the Ortiz and Chico. The general depths in this are from 3^ to 
 
 4, 5, and sometimes to 6 fathoms. In the southern channel, between the 
 Chico and shore, the depths are 3| and 3 fathoms; and in the northern 
 they are only 3 and and 2 5 fathoms. 
 
 THE SOUTHERN CHANNELS were buoyed in 1823, when four black buoys 
 were laid on the south side of the Ortiz, and four red ones on the Chico. 
 The other buoys have also been laid higher up, off the coast between Point 
 
 5. lago and Buenos Ayres. 
 
 Of the buoys, the first on the Ortiz (black) was laid on its N. E. ex- 
 tremity at about 40 miles S. W. by TV. TV. (TV. S. TV. TV.) from 
 Monte Video, and 15 miles N. N. E. from Point Indio. It is described as 
 lying in latitude 35 6' 30" S. in 2| fathoms, 5^ miles E. S. E. from an old 
 beacon or wreck on the sand, visible at low water; the second buoy bears 
 N. W. | TV., 20^ miles from that on its S. E. end, and N. E., 8 miles from 
 the buoy on the S. E. end of the Chico ; the fourth bears N. by E., 6 miles 
 from the buoy on the N. TV. end of the Chico ; the third to the N. N. E. 
 of the third on the central part of the Chico, ah" in 3 fathoms. These 
 buoys mark the large channel between the banks of 4, 5^, and sometimes 
 6 fathoms, according to the state of the river. 
 
 Of the buoys, the first on the Chico (red) lies about 23 miles TV. N. TV. 
 TV. (N. TV. by TV. TV.) from that on the S. E. end of the Ortiz, in 3 
 fathoms, muddy bottom, with the Magdalena church bearing S. 15 TV. 11 
 miles distant ; the second buoy is laid four miles TV. N. TV. from the first, 
 or S. E. buoy, in 2^ fathoms; the third N. 15 TV. of the second, in the 
 depth of one fathom and a quarter ; the last, or N. TV. buoy, lies over a 
 muddy bottom, with Atalaya point bearing S. 24 TV., nearly 10 miles. 
 
 The black buoy on the Ensenada spit lies in 3 fathoms, with Point S. 
 lago bearing S. 28 E., and Point Lara S. 53 TV. ; that on the bank of Lara 
 lies with Point Lava, bearing S. E. S. and Point S. lago S. 63 E. in the 
 same depth, and at about three miles from shore. 
 
 Captain Barral, of the French Navy, gives the following description of, 
 and directions for, the Rio de la Plata. 
 
 " The Rio de la Plata is supplied from the west by the waters of the 
 Uruguay and Parana, two great rivers, which themselves i^ceive the waters 
 of a great number of subsidiary streams. 
 
 " Three towns of the republic of Uruguay stand on the north side of the
 
 318 
 
 river; the first in coming from Santa Maria, is Maldonado, already des- 
 cribed; the second, Monte Video; and the third, Colonia del Sacrimento. 
 The chief, or capital, is the city of S. Felipe, or Monte Video. 
 
 " JBttenos Ayres, the only town on the south side of the river, is the capi- 
 tal of the United Provinces of La Plata. Its distance from the river Para- 
 na is five leagues. From Cape Sta. Maria to Maldonado the distance is 16 
 leagues; from Maldonado to Monte Video, 21 leagues; and from the last 
 to Colonia, 31 leagues; from Cape S. Antonio to Buenos Ayres the dis- 
 tance is 45 leagues. 
 
 " Near the north shore are several isles, and a number of rocks both above 
 and under water. These isles on Lobos, 8 miles to the south-eastward of 
 Maldonado ; Gorritti in the bay of Maldonado ; Flores, having the light- 
 house before noticed, 15 miles to the eastward of Monte Video; the islets 
 of San Gabriel, Farallon, and Lopez, before Colonia and those of Hornos, 
 at a league and a half to the N. W. from that town. The rocks are all 
 within a short distance from the land. 
 
 " WINDS. At the entrance of the river, and at Monte Video, the most pre- 
 valent winds are the N. E. and S. W. ; at Buenos Ayres and at La Colo- 
 nia the prevailing winds are from N., N. AV., S. E., and S. "W. During 
 summer, when the weather is fine, the winds blow over all the river 
 pretty regularly, from the E. to S. E. after six in the morning to sunset. 
 In the night the winds vary to the north. 
 
 " S. W. and S. S. "W. winds are known in the Plata under the name of 
 Pamperos, as coming from the Pampas, or plains, over which they pass. 
 They clear the sky, and commonly blow after rain, or when the wind 
 has varied from the N. to N. W. and to "W., and in the summer, after a 
 calm and very hot day. Sometimes the Pampero comes on after a strong 
 N. E. wind, while the sun is obscured by clouds, when it is sudden and 
 very dangerous. It thus meets the ships which are found in the Plata, or 
 near the entrance, and is indicated by a sudden fall in the barometer, which 
 rises afterward. 
 
 " As it rains more frequently in the winter than in the summer, this wind 
 is more common in the rough season, and then lasts for two or three days. 
 In summer it grows stronger, but generally ceases sooner. It is then desig- 
 nated in the country tarbonada, equivalent to the French word tourmente, 
 and to the English storm. 
 
 " When the weather is fine, with the wind light and constant, the tides 
 are regular on the shores ; but when there is any perturbation in the di- 
 rection and force of the winds the tides become irregular, and form cur- 
 rents, which frequently acquire a velocity of 4 and 5 miles an hour. 
 
 " At Buenos Ayres the sea is high with winds from S. E., and low with 
 winds from N. W. and S. W.; at Monte Video, and on the rest of the 
 north shore, the waters rise with S. E. and S. W. winds, and fall with 
 northerly ones. The difference of level on the two shores rarely exceeds 
 four or five feet, but in strong N. W. gales the rise is, at times, ten 
 feet. 
 
 " In the months of March, April, and a part of May, the river is higher 
 than in the other months of the year, being raised by the increase of the 
 waters of the Parana and Uruguay, which bring down, at that time, trees 
 and bushes from the verdant islets of the river. This is the finest season 
 of this part of South America, with the winds moderate and temperature 
 agreeable. During the spring, summer, and winter, the winds are almost 
 constantly strong, and the temperature of the air very agreeable. 
 
 " ANCHORAGES. Whenever the lead indicates ooze or muddy ground you 
 may drop an anchor, only taking care to be at a sufficient distance from
 
 319 
 
 the bank, and so as not to drive upward. With the winds in the southern 
 quarter the anchorages on the south side is the best ; but with northerly 
 winds the opposite side is to be preferred. 
 
 " Ships of war and large frigates may ascend to Monte Video ; all ships 
 drawing 16 or 17 feet water may safely proceed to Buenos Ayres on the 
 one side, and to the Hornos islets on the other. The anchorages, sheltered 
 from N. W., N. E., East, and S. E. winds, are Maldonado, Monte Video, 
 and Hornos. Those sheltered from the S. W. are the Ensenada de Bar- 
 ragan and Buenos Ayres. 
 
 " Small ships may also anchor at the entrance of the river of Santa Lucia, 
 and at Colonia on the north coast, at the Rio Salado in the Ensenada de 
 San Boromber, and at Riachuelo, near Buenos Ayres, on the south side. 
 
 " You may anchor at Maldonado in 6 or 7 fathoms of water ; at Monte 
 Video, in the 'road, in 5 fathoms ; in the harbour in 3 and 3j ; at the Isles 
 Hornos in 3| or 4 fathoms ; in the road of the Ensenada de S. Boromber 
 in 4 fathoms ; near Buenos Ayres, in the road, in 3 or 4 fathoms ; and 
 near the town in 2 and 2^ fathoms. 
 
 " In the anchorages of the north coast you ought to moor during S. W. 
 winds, and in the others with the winds south-easterly. Of all the ports 
 and roads the best holding ground is at Maldonado ; this is ooze covered 
 with sand; elsewhere the bottom is of soft mud, on which the anchors 
 drag in gales of wind. During the Pamperos the Isles de Hornos present 
 very good anchorage, the sea before them being broken by the bank of 
 Palmos. 
 
 " DEPTHS OF THE RIVER AT THE ENTRANCE, AND IN THE OFFING. When 
 you have gained the parallel of Cape Santa Maria, and longitude 51 54' W., 
 the depth, at the distance of 33 leagues from the cape, is 80 fathoms, bot- 
 tom of ooze ; at 25 leagues the bottom is of sand, or of ooze mixed with 
 shells, and the depths only 35 to 25 fathoms ; on advancing nearer to the 
 cape the decrease in depth is irregular. On the parallel of Castillos 34 
 24|', at 33 leagues off, the depth of water is 52 fathoms, and the pre- 
 dominating quality of the bottom is of sand. In navigating on the paral- 
 lel more to the south, or that of Cape Santa Maria, less water will be found 
 in the same longitude, and the depths gradually diminish. 
 
 "At 15 leagues from Cape St. Antonio is a depth of 15 fathoms, sand ; at 
 28 leagues from the same cape, to the S. E., are 40 fathoms, similar bottom. 
 To the north of the cape, at 5 leagues from the land, are 6 and 7 fathoms ; 
 and in the direction of the English bank, on the parallel of 35 11', are 5 
 and 6 fathoms, with sandy bottom, at 5 leagues, without the same, near the 
 meridian of 55 35'. 
 
 " Wfien turning in, on the parallel of 35 20', and having attained the 
 same meridian, the bottom has been found of fine sand, the lead indicating 
 about 7 fathoms of water. On the parallel of 35 35', and thence to Cape 
 S. Antonio, the bottom is of sand, mixed with shells or gravel. 
 
 " From the latitude of 35 20' S., having passed the meridian of the English 
 bank, the depth does not increase to more than 7 fathoms; on the parallel 
 of 36 it attains 10 and 11 fathoms. To the west of the bank, on this 
 parallel, are five and 5^ fathoms only. At twenty leagues off, from the 
 entrance of the Rio de la Plata, the water loses its blue colour, and assumes 
 that of green tinged with yellow. 
 
 " On running for the north shore, when in view of it, or near the land, the 
 quality of the bottom will be ooze. When running on a parallel, a little 
 higher than that of the Isle of Lobos, on the north of this isle, ooze will 
 also be found; at two miles south of it are 14 and 14^ fathoms of water, 
 and at 6 miles, 20 and 21 fathoms. From Lobos, westward, toward Monte
 
 Video, the depths of water diminish gradually, but irregularly. In the 
 passes, formed by the banks of hard sand, situate between Monte Video 
 and Buenos Ayres, are 85 to 5 fathoms of water." 
 
 NAVIGATION AT THE ENTRANCE AND IN THE RIVER. The preceding 
 description indicates the precautions requisite to be taken on approaching 
 the different points of the entrance. On advancing it is prudent to prefer 
 the north coast, that only being elevated. 
 
 Some navigators have pretended that they can always judge of their 
 position without a view of the land, by the depths of the sea, and an in- 
 spection of the divers qualities of ground gained by the lead ; but this must 
 be incorrect, for, in exploring the offing on all these coasts, soundings were 
 frequently found similar to those off the river, and the resemblance, if de- 
 pended on, may cause dangerous errors. We, therefore, advise mariners 
 not to attempt making the river without being previously well assured of 
 their position by observation of latitude and longitude, and always to ad- 
 vance with precaution, on account of currents, which may happen to pre- 
 vail between the hours of observation. 
 
 If the wind be steady from N. E. when you approach Cape Santa Maria, 
 that will be an advantage which will allow you to reconnoitre a greater ex- 
 tent of coast before entering the river ; but under other circumstances a 
 sight of Lobos is, in the first instance, to be preferred, as you may thus 
 avoid being wind-bound on the north coast, and have a better chance of 
 plying to windward. It has been already noticed that the landfall of Cape 
 Antonio is both difficult to make out and dangerous to approach, unless in 
 favourable weather. 
 
 Having arrived to the southward of the Isle Lobos, at the distance of 
 two or three miles, the direct course for the isle and lighthouse of Flores 
 will be W. 7 N., true, or W. ^ S., by compass ; but as the Plata is subject 
 to very variable currents, such must be allowed for on approaching the 
 north shore, taking care, at the same time, not to fall too far to the south- 
 ward, or toward the English bank. On approaching land you may, in 
 good time, see the round tower of Maldonado, and the high lands to the 
 westward ; and in continuing the route, at the distance of 5 or 6 miles off, 
 distinguish a point formed of black rocks, with beaches of sand to the right 
 and left of it. This point, called Punta Negra^ (Black point) is situated at 
 14 miles westward of Maldonado ; it is the western point of a great sandy 
 bay, over which the high lands are remarkable, as appearing to rise like a 
 great white border from the shore of Maldonado, and the extreme points 
 of the bay Ballena and Negra. 
 
 When you are on the meridian of Punta Negra, at the distance of six 
 miles, the isle of Flores will again bear W. 7 N., true, or W. j S. by com- 
 pass. Here you will have 11 or 12 fathoms of water, oozy bottom, and 
 may thence proceed with perfect safety. 
 
 Beyond the lands situate to the north of Punta Negra, the coast makes 
 a break or aperture, and thence becomes very low. On steering in sight 
 of land, you may now distinguish the Mils of Afilar, situate in latitude 34 
 47' 15" S., and longitude 5526' 15" W. ; when these bear N. by W. (by com- 
 pass) and the nearest hill of Punta Negra bears N. E., you will be 27 
 miles eastward of Flores, in 11 or 12 fathoms of water, oozy bottom, and 
 the isle in a line with Lobos. The hills of Afilar are insulated, andVesemble 
 two mamelors, or tetas, or paps. 
 
 On proceeding upon a course W. | S. as above, you may see, from the 
 mast-head, the light-tower on Flores, at the distance of about 12 miles. 
 This isle, when first described, resembles three islets; afterward the lower 
 part gradually rises from the horizon, and at five miles off the whole cornea
 
 321 
 
 in sight. When the sea is high, the isle when first seen, appears in two 
 portions only. 
 
 On coming in by night, you may see the revolving light on Flores, 
 directly ahead, and may approach it to the distance of four miles, then 
 passing it to the southward at two or three miles. Between Flores and the 
 English bank the bottom is of ooze, and the general depth 6 and 7 fathoms. 
 The distance between is ten miles. 
 
 From the isles Flores to the harbour of Monte Video the distance, in a 
 right line, is 16 miles W. by S., which will lead clear of the Piinta Brava^ 
 4 miles to the eastward of that port. This Punta Brava is formed by a 
 line of rocks projecting into the sea; one shoal, detached from the rest, 
 requires a berth on passing. A large white house stands to the north of the 
 point, and a smaller one is situate toward the middle of the rocks. 
 
 On leaving Flores^ when the weather is clear, the Cerro or hill of Monte 
 Video comes in sight ; and, in some time after, the steeples or towers of 
 the cathedral in the city will be seen. 
 
 With the wind from the N. or the N. E., you may steer by night to 
 the W. by S. for doubling Point Brava ; but with the winds from the S. 
 E. or E. S. E. it will be prudent to steer W. S. W. You ought, in precau- 
 tion, either in one case or the other, to keep the light on Flores E. by N. or 
 E. N. E., with an assurance that the currents will not set the ship in the 
 direction of Point Brava. 
 
 When the Cerro or hill called Monte Video bears N. W. the point will 
 be doubled, and you may proceed on the starboard tack, so as to gain the 
 anchorage. A large vessel, after passing Brava, may proceed W. by S., 
 and find anchorage in the Great Road in 5 fathoms. At a mile to the south 
 of Point Brava are 5 fathoms of water. 
 
 In the track from Lobos to Monte Video, as in all those in the interior of 
 the river the rate of way must be measured by the log, and the current by 
 a boat, in the usual manner, so as to ascertain whether it be in favour of the 
 ship or otherwise. The route will be modified accordingly. 
 
 As all the coast between Punta Negra and Flores may be approached 
 to the distance of 5 or 6 miles, it is best by night to make the tacks on 
 the starboard side. The revolving light of Flores will, in this case, be 
 clearly seen, and you may pass to the southward of it, leaving it at the 
 distance of 4 or 5 miles, which will lead, at a sufficient distance from the 
 English bank in 6 and 7 fathoms. 
 
 The Cerro, or Hill of Monte Video, is 478 feet high above the level of 
 the sea. On it is established a fixed light, but which cannot be seen by 
 night, more than 5 or 6 miles off, when the weather is clear. 
 
 Should you attempt to make Monte Video, by passing to the southward 
 of the English bank, you must pass this shoal, from the entrance of the 
 river on the parallel of 35 30', steering W. by S. with northerly winds, 
 and W. S. W. with the wind southerly. 
 
 On passing over the great bank the soundings will be fine sand, then 
 ordinary sand, afterward oozy sand, and lastly ooze, when over the bank, 
 and on the meridian of Monte Video. You will then, by steering north, 
 gain sight of the mountain, which may be seen by day, in clear weather, 
 nine leagues off. Its position is latitude 34 53' 2" S., in longitude 56 
 11' 37' W. 
 
 If, notwithstanding the precautions indicated, you fall on a bottom of 5 
 fathoms, in passing to the southward of the English bank, by tacking to the 
 N. W. you will soon after gain from 6 to 8 fathoms. In thick weather, or if 
 the true situation of the ship be uncertain, in any part of the river you 
 may always anchor rather than continue your route. 
 
 s s
 
 322 
 
 MONTE VIDEO. THE BAY OF MONTE VIDEO is 2^ miles in extent, 
 and its general depths are from 15 to 9 feet of water. The city, named 
 that of SAN FELIPE, or ST. PHILIP, is on the eastern side, as shown on the 
 particular plan of the harbour, and stands on a peninsula ; it is strongly 
 fortified, and has a citadel on the east. This place is the capital of the re- 
 public of URUGUAY, formerly called the Banda Oriental. The population 
 is estimated at about 10,000. A British consul is resident here. The an- 
 choring ground is good, but exposed to the pamperos, or S. "W. winds, 
 which, at times, raise the water 6 or 7 feet above the ordinary level. On 
 the western side is the hill from which the harbour derives its name, and 
 on which stands the lighthouse ; the other part of the coast is low. 
 
 The best anchorage has been already described, and therefore have only 
 to add that there is a shoal in the eastern part of the bay, called EL BAJO 
 DE LA FAMILIA, and lying at nine-tenths of a mile N. by E. from the 
 extremity of the eastern point, called that of SAN JOSE, on which likewise 
 there are several rocks. The depths between are from 15 to 9 feet. 
 
 SECTION IX. 
 THE COASTS OF LA PLATA AND PATAGONIA, 
 
 INCLUDING 
 
 THE STRAIT OF MAGALHAEN * 
 
 FROM the river Plate to the Rio Negro, or Black river, the coast is entirely 
 flat and destitute of harbours. The interior is one vast plain, mostly 
 covered with grass and clover, Captain Fitzroy says, " As pasture land it 
 is excellent, except in the summer, when all is parched. There is a rich 
 tract of country between Buenos Ayres and Cape Corrientes, where the 
 soil is rich and the w r ater plentiful. In that tract there are ranges of low 
 hills, extending nearly east and west. From Blanco bay to the river 
 Negro the coast is dangerous ; the land is everywhere low, the shoals 
 numerous and extensive, and the tides strong. In Blanco bay, the best 
 harbour hereabout, the tide rises from 8 to 12 feet; this is the only known 
 asylum for large ships ; but good water is here extremely scarce, and wood 
 is not obtainable, unless from a great distance. All this country is exposed 
 to severe cold in winter, and to excessive heat in summer ; great and sudden 
 changes of temperature take place when, after very hot weather, cold 
 winds rush northward with the fury of a hurricane. Even the wandering 
 Indians avoid this region, and cross it only to get salt, or visit their 
 burying places. 
 
 Captain Morrell, in describing the coast to the southward of the river 
 Colorado, says, "On the 20th of September, 1822, we were close in with 
 the bay of All-Saints, in latitude 40 30' S., but did not stop to examine it, 
 being anxious to enter Rio Negro on the following day. To the southward 
 of Rio Colorado, or Red river, the coast is gemmed with islands, and 
 abounds with shoals, extending a league to the eastward. Among these 
 islands and shoals are many good and safe harbours, for vessels under 300 
 tons burthen. 
 
 * Nearly the entire of this section is taken from Captain P. P. King's Sailing Directions 
 for the Coasts of Eastern and Western Patagonia. Printed for the Hydrographical Office, 
 Admiralty, 1832.
 
 323 
 
 " Rio NEGRO. About 12 leagues south and west of these islands is ^Kio 
 Negro, in which we cast anchor on the 21st, our vessel being the first from 
 the United States that ever entered this river. Previous to this visit of 
 the Wasp Rio Negro had been of very little note ; but it is now much 
 frequented, especially by whalers, who touch here for refreshments. Here 
 we found bullocks, sheep, hogs, and poultry in abundance ; and, in the 
 summer or winter, (say from March to June) any quantity of vegetables 
 and many different kinds of fruit may be had at this place, on a brief 
 notice, and at a very low rate. Good water can be drawn alongside at 
 the last of the ebb, and wood, in any quantity, may be cut by the ship's 
 crew close to the banks of the river. The inhabitants are principally 
 Spaniards, who are very friendly to strangers, with whom they are anxious 
 to open a trade. 
 
 " In coming from the eastward, for Rio Negro, the navigator should 
 endeavour to make the land in about the parallel of 40 52' S., and 
 longitude 62 15' W., when he will first see Point Rasa, which will be 
 readily known by three remarkable hummocks. After approaching to 
 within about one league of this point he has to steer S. W. toward Rio 
 Negro, taking care not to come into less than 6 or 8 fathoms of water, 
 with a sandy bottom. The shore is a continuation of low sand-hills, 
 interspersed with heath and brushwood, until you approach the river, 
 where the hillocks become more elevated, and are composed of clear white 
 sand, lying in ridges or undulations like the waves of the ocean. About 4 
 or 5 miles south of Point Rasa is a singular hillock of brushwood, having 
 small shrubs toward the east end, which, from the sea, appear like a drove 
 of cattle. Eight miles to the south and west of this is a remarkable gap, 
 about 2| miles back of the beach. As you approach the entrance of Rio 
 Negro the range of white sand-hills will terminate, and the mouth of the 
 river, bearing W. S. W., appears high and bluff, on the eastern side. The 
 western point of the river is low, but rises gradually to the south barranca, 
 which is high and bluff, terminating in a perpendicular point; and this 
 point is a table land for 4 or 5 miles to the westward. 
 
 "In entering Rio Negro, without a pilot, the S. E. channel is to be 
 preferred, and you must keep along in 4, 5, or 6 fathoms of water, until 
 you bring Point de Maine, the eastern point of the river, to bear N. W. ; 
 then steer for the mouth of the river, observing to keep Point Welcome, 
 which is a remarkable bluff promontory, about 10 yards open of a low 
 point off the pilot's house. These marks are distinctly seen when Point de 
 Maine bears N. W. ; but in entering beware of the flood tide, which sets 
 strongly over the north bank ; and, if your vessel draws more than 10 feet 
 of water, you must not attempt to enter until three-quarters flood, when 
 you will have from 2 to 2^ fathoms of water, between the banks, which will 
 deepen as you approach Point de Maine. The breakers on the bank are dis- 
 tinctly seen, and, with a southerly wind, it frequently breaks all about the 
 channel. Having passed through between the north and south banks, you 
 will find 4, 5, and 6 fathoms of water ; but you must be careful and keep 
 the eastern point on board until you are inside of the point of the Borras, 
 by which means you will clear the inner bank, extending two-thirds of its 
 length outside the harbour's mouth. 
 
 " In this river, at the town, are about two hours of flood tide, and com- 
 monly about 10 hours of ebb, frequently running at the rate of 5 or G miles 
 an hour. But within the mouth of the river the flood tide runs four hours, 
 and the ebb eight hours, at the rate of 3 or 3^ miles an hour. It is high 
 water at the bar, on the days of new and full moon, at 11 h. 15 m,, and 
 the water there rises 1 1 feet on the spring tides, and 8 feet on the neaps ;
 
 324 
 
 but, when the wind blows strongly from the S. E., the tide rises from 1 2 
 to 14 feet. Along the coast is a regular tide of six hours flood and six 
 hours ebb, but the flood tide inclines rather toward the shore, about 
 N. E. by N., at the rate of 2 or 3 miles an hour. Consequently, in 
 entering Rio Negro, particular attention must be paid to the currents 
 and tides, which set strongly to the N. E., round the Point de Maine, or 
 outer point." 
 
 ST. MATTHIAS BAY. From Rio Negro the coast for nearly 30 
 leagues trends westerly, whence it sweeps south-easterly in a broad semi- 
 circle, terminating in a peninsula which projects to the N. E., thus forming 
 the extensive bay of St. Matthias. On the western side of this bay, 
 somewhat inland, rises the mount of St. Antonio, and in the N. W. corner 
 is a port of the same name, said to be a fine harbour, and very convenient 
 for whaling ships, though but little frequented ; its entrance is very narrow, 
 between banks on either side. The S. E. part of the bay is formed by a 
 peninsula, St. Joseph's, within which, on the N. W., is the gulf of St. 
 Joseph ; and on the S. W. side of the peninsula is the Bahia Nueva, or 
 New bay, the neck of the peninsula extending between them. On the 
 eastern side of the peninsula is port Valdez, in latitude 42 30' S. 
 
 BAHIA NUEVA, OR NEW BAY, is an excellent place for ships in want of 
 refreshments, which may readily be obtained. Whale ships having good 
 ground tackling may lie in any part of the bay, in perfect safety. The 
 best anchorage is on the west side, in from 5 to 10 fathoms, at about a 
 mile off shore, as in this part easterly winds seldom, if ever, blow with 
 sufficient violence to injure any ship lying with an anchor ahead. On the 
 25th of September, 1822, Captain Morrell, in the Wasp, anchored on the 
 south side of this bay, in 5 fathoms, about 3 miles within the Punta Niufas, 
 or South point. On landing, grey foxes, brown hares, and mountain deer 
 in great numbers were seen. Several cow-whales, of a large size, were at 
 the same time in the bay, and perfectly tame. On the next day, upon 
 landing on the north side of the bay, on the plains of the peninsula, about 
 3,000 wild bullocks were seen, of which four of the finest were taken. 
 At the head of the bay were found vast forests of heavy timber, some of 
 which would make fine spars for ships of any size, being a kind of bastard 
 cedar, which is very tough, and when dry becomes extremely light. There 
 were, also, many fine springs of excellent water, and numerous birds of 
 beautiful plumage. The waters abound with scale fish of almost every 
 variety. 
 
 PORT SANTA ELENA is a small bay quite open to the south ; and near 
 the middle of the entrance, which is only a mile and three-quarters wide, 
 is a small shoal of twelve feet ; and at two cables true east from it is a low 
 islet, named Florido. The best passage in is to the W. and N. W. of 
 these, where there will be found 10 to 7 and 6 fathoms of water, in the 
 N. W. cove of the harbour. The bay affords good shelter from S. by E. 
 westward to E. by S., and, as the heavy and prevailing winds are between 
 these points, this place may well be recommended to stop at for a few 
 days. The winds are seldom from S. E., and generally light; and, the 
 tide running strong across the entrance of the bay, the sea, during strong 
 S. E. winds, is much cut off. 
 
 Captain King says, "This harbour may be easily known by some 
 hummocky hills on the N. E. projecting point, on the eastern of which is 
 a remarkable stone that appears to have been placed there as a monu- 
 mental record, but which is a natural production. The best anchorage is 
 at the N. W. corner of the bay, in 6 or 7 fathoms, but not too near to the 
 shore; for, when the sea is heavy, the ground-swell breaks for some
 
 325 
 
 distance off. In working into the bay, the two-fathom bank must be 
 avoided, for which Florido islet is a good mark. 
 
 " The water that is contained in the two wells on the N. "W side of the 
 harbour is too brackish to be worth consideration, nor is there any fresh 
 water to be obtained from any part of the harbour. Of fuel a temporary 
 supply may be procured from the small shrubby tree, bearing a yellow 
 flower, with a prickle at the extremity of every leaf ; the sealers call it 
 piccolo, from the small dimensions of its stem : it is tolerably abundant 
 here. Guanacoes, ostriches, armadillos, and the cavia, or Patagonian hare 
 are to be procured, as are also wild ducks, partridges, snipes, and rails; 
 but fish seem to be scarce. The Indians sometimes visit this part of the 
 coast, which is used by them principally for burying their dead. 
 
 " In approaching port St. Elena, from the northward, there are several 
 rocks near the shore which are very little above the water, and there is a 
 considerable reef in the offing, situated 4| miles S. 78 E. from Cape Raso, 
 and N. 51 E. 8 miles from the N. E. trend of the north head of the port. 
 It is a dry rock, and is near the extremity of a ridge which, probably, 
 projects off from the latter point, for there are two dry rocks in the same 
 line of bearing, one a mile and a half, and the other three and one-third 
 from the point, besides several patches which break. The tide sets rather 
 strong along the shore, which is fronted by reefs for 2 or 3 miles off; great 
 caution should therefore be used in approaching the coast, as the water is 
 deep, and, if becalmed, it may be necessary to anchor, which will be in at 
 least 30 fathoms water. 
 
 " Should the above reef be as continuous as it appears, there should be 
 good riding in the bay between Cape Raso and port St. Elena. Between 
 the south head of port St. Elena and Cape Two Bays are two bights in the 
 coast, the southernmost of which is considerable, and may probably afford 
 a good anchorage. 
 
 " CAPE Two BAYS is a rounded point, the hill close to the sea, on the 
 most projecting part of the cape, being in latitude 44 58' S. ; the small 
 islet of Arce, to the S. E., is in latitude 45 0' 50' S., and longitude 65 
 25' 25' W. ; and Raso island is in latitude 45 6' 30'' S., longitude 65 20' 
 11" W. From Cape Two Bays the coast trends westerly round Cape Two 
 Bays, and forms the northern part of St. George's gulf." 
 
 Captain Morrell says " CAPE Two BAYS, as its name imports, is a pro- 
 jecting point between two bays, forming the south part of Camarones bay, 
 and the north part of the great bay of St. George. About the shores of 
 the last named bay are numerous rocks and isles, containing seal of both 
 kinds, and behind some of which vessels may anchor in safety. Puerto de 
 Melo, or Port Melo, in latitude 45 3' S., longitude 66 56' W., is the first safe 
 harbour to be found after entering St. George's bay on the north side It js 
 fronted by the Escobar and Leguma islets, and ships of any size may lie 
 within it, in perfect safety, in from 7 to 5 fathoms, sandy bottom. The 
 entering passage is between the Escobar islets and the eastern point, Punta 
 de Portugal ; at about a mile within this point the water has a depth of 5 
 or 6 fathoms. In this snug and safe harbour, at the head of the bay, ves- 
 sels may obtain good fresh water, but wood cannot be obtained without 
 difficulty. The tide rises about 18 feet ; high water, full and change at 4h. 
 22m. PORT MALASPINA, in or about latitude 45 12' S. longitude 66 39' 
 W., is fronted by the Viana islets, or rocks, behind which vessels may find 
 shelter from every wind, the S. E. excepted. In approaching this small 
 bay you will see the Tetas, or Paps of Pineda to the north, abreast of 
 which you may anchor in from 10 to 6 fathoms of water, fine sandy ground. 
 
 "There are many other good anchoring places between this and Cape
 
 326 
 
 Blanco, the southern extremity of St. George's bay which require no par- 
 ticular directions, as the coast is bold and clear of danger, within half a mile 
 of the shore. Easterly winds never blow here with any degree of violence, 
 so that whalemen may cruise about these shores, in the calfing season, with 
 the greatest safety." 
 
 CAPE THREE POINTS. The southern limit of St. George's gulf, Cape 
 Three. Points, is very easily discovered at sea by its very level outline, 
 being a long range of table land higher than any part near it, visible from 
 the deck for more than 20 miles ; and to the S. E. detached, but near the 
 range, there is a conical hill, which is easily discerned from the northward, 
 but from the N. E. is not seen, being concealed by the ranges of land be- 
 hind it in the S. W. 
 
 CAPE BLANCO. At six miles and a half to the S. E. of Cape Three 
 points is CAPE BLANCO, a low rugged tongue of land, terminated by a 
 rounded but very rugged hillock and two smaller ones, which, when first 
 seen, appear to be islands detached from the coast. The neck of land, 
 which forms the communication with the coast is low and sandy, and 
 probably offers, on its side, shelter from southerly winds. There are se- 
 veral shoals off this part of the coast, that at low water would doubtless be 
 dangerous. H. M. S., Adventure, passed over two, and had not less than 
 5 fathoms, but probably at low water the depth may be considerably less ; 
 they are thrown up by the force of the tide, which sweeps round the cape, 
 into and out of St. George's gulf, with great strength. 
 
 The north and south ends of the northern shoal bear respectively from 
 Cape Three Points and Cape Blanco E. N. E. E. (East) distant from the 
 former 7 miles, and from the latter 5 miles ; consequently it extends in a 
 N. 31 W. (N. by W. and S. by E.) direction for 5^ miles; it is scarcely 
 a quarter of a mile wide. The north end of the southern shoal bears 
 E. 5 N. (S. 75 E.) 7 miles from Cape Blanco, and extends in nearly a 
 true south direction for 2 miles. Between these shoals there is a passage 
 two miles wide, and the depth gradually increases to more than 15 fathoms. 
 
 Within the outer shoals are two others, imperfectly known, and it is 
 said there is much shoal ground to the N. E., for, in the year 1829, Captain 
 King having approached the land, and being 14 miles from Cape Three 
 Points, bearing S. 38 "W. (magnetic) the depth rather suddenly decreased 
 from 40 to 14 fathoms, pebbly bottom, so that the foul ground extends for 
 14 or 15 miles to the N. E. of the cape, the edge of the bank being about 
 8 or 1 miles within the soundings of 50 fathoms. On approaching it the 
 quality of the bottom becomes irregular, and changes from ooze to sand, 
 and the shoal patches are pebbly, so that by attention to the soundings, 
 and nature of the bottom, these shoals may be easily avoided. A good 
 mark to avoid them is not to approach so near to the cape as to see the 
 rugged hillock of Cape Blanco, and to keep the high land of Cape Three 
 Points, which is visible from the deck about 20 miles, on the horizon. 
 
 The flood, or northerly tide, ceased in the offing at 4 h. 15m. after the 
 moon's passage ; but in the neighbourhood of the cape, and among the 
 shoals, the tides may be less regular ; they produce strong ripplings, and 
 set with considerable strength. 
 
 Off the coast, between Cape Blanco, and Port Desire, within the distance 
 of 3 to 5 miles from the shore, there are several small patches of roqk, 
 which uncover at half-tide; but beyond that belt the coast is free from 
 any known danger, and may be approached, by sounding, in not less than 
 14 or 15 fathoms : within that limit the ground is foul. To the northward 
 of Port Desire the land is low, with a shingle beach, excepting for the first 
 3 miles, where it is high and cliffy. The north point of entrance of the bay
 
 327 
 
 is a steep bluff, which is remarkable in being the only point of that de- 
 scription along the coast to the northward. At 3 miles N. 28 E., magnetic, 
 from this bluff there is a ledge of rocks, Surrel ledge, a quarter of a mile 
 without which the depth is 13 fathoms. The Tower rock becomes visible 
 after passing this ledge ; it opens out when the north bluff bears S. W. ^ W. 
 A ship bound to Port Desire, or merely wishing to anchor in the bay which 
 fronts it, may procure a good berth in 6f fathoms, at low water, well 
 sheltered from N. f W. to S. E. i E., with the north bluff bearing N. W. 
 W. ; the Tower rock W. f N. ; and Penguin isle S. E. | E. 
 
 This situation being a little to the southward of the fair- way of the port, 
 and about 1^ mile from the nearest shore is quite out of the strength of 
 the tide ; the bottom, being strewed with rounded stones, is rather foul for 
 hemp cables, but the holding ground, although of such suspicious quality, 
 seemed to be good : at this place the tide rose from 6f to 9g fathoms, a 
 difference of 16^ feet. 
 
 PORT DESIRE. The river of Port Desire has rather a difficult entrance, 
 from the strength of the tide and its narrow width ; and it is rendered still 
 more confined, from several rocky reefs, that extend off the north shore to 
 nearly mid-channel. There is good anchorage off the mouth ; by waiting, 
 therefore, for low water, all the dangers that exist will be seen, and the 
 vessel easily dropt in with the tide, should the wind be, as it generally is, 
 westerly ; if it be fair, it is advisable for the ship to be in the entrance at 
 slack water, or, if the breeze be strong enough, a little before. As the 
 water is deep on the south shore, there seems to be no real danger that 
 may not be avoided by a careful look-out for kelp, which always grows 
 upon, and therefore plainly indicates the existence of rocky ground. The 
 course in is about W. S. W. f W., and the distance from the entrance to 
 the anchorage is one mile and a half. The anchorage is off the ruins* on 
 the north shore, and the vessel should be moored : the tide sets in and out 
 regularly. 
 
 The river was examined for 16 miles, but is probably navigable to a 
 much greater distance. Four miles above the ruins there is a small pen- 
 insula, connected by a narrow isthmus to the north shore ; by sending a 
 party up, and stationing men with guns on the isthmus, it is very likely that 
 several guanacoes may be shot as they are driven across it, for the peninsula 
 is their favourite place to feed upon. These animals are very abundant, but 
 unless stratagem be used, they are very difficult, from their shyness, to be 
 appi'oached. There are some water holes near the ruins, which generally 
 contain water, but of so brackish a quality as scarcely to be worth notice. 
 The wood is of the same kind as that found at port Santa Elena ; it burns 
 well, and is much prized by sealers for that quality. 
 
 Captain Morrell, in describing Port Desire, says, " It is the seaport of a 
 large river; the mouth is very narrow, and has many rocks and shoals 
 about it. It continues to be narrow for about 2 5 miles from the entrance, 
 when it expands into a broad basin, sprinkled with a number of small islands 
 frequented by seals. Near the mouth of this port, on the south side of its 
 entrance, is a remarkable rock, rising from the water like a church steeple 
 of Gothic order, and is known by the appropriate appellation of Steeple 
 rock. This rock forms a conspicuous landmark for mariners who are 
 approaching the harbour, which would otherwise be difficult to find. There 
 
 * Some years since a Spanish colony was founded at Port Desire, but, not answering the 
 purpose, it was soon afterwards given up. The ruins of the edifices, which are of stone, and 
 the remains of a fruit garden, that at our visit produced quinces and cherries, distinctly point 
 out the spot. Captain King.
 
 328 
 
 are two springs on the south side of the river, about two miles from the 
 beach, or in a line S. S. E. (true?) from Steeple rock, from which water 
 of a good quality can be obtained in abundance. The tides are very rapid 
 about this part of the coast, running at the rate of 8 miles an hour, nearly 
 north and south, and rising 25 feet at each flood." 
 
 PENGDIN ISLAND. The outer side of this little island is bold, and may 
 be passed very close without danger, for the tide rather sets off than 
 towards the shore. The tide is very rapid, and forms, even in a calm, 
 strong ripplings, which, in a breeze, must be very dangerous for boats to 
 pass through, and, indeed, not agreeable for vessels of any size. The 
 flood sets to the northward, and, during its strength, at more than 3 knots ; 
 for we found the ebb to have set us 15 miles to the south, in 5 hours. Off 
 the island the high water, or the termination of the northerly stream, takes 
 place at about 4 h., or 4 h. 15 m. after the moon's passage, which is 3^ or 
 4 hours, at least, after it is high water at the shore. 
 
 SEA BEAR BAY, according to Captain King, is one of the best anchorages 
 that I know of on the coast, but is difficult of access, without a leading and 
 a fresh wind, on account of the strength of the tides, which set to the 
 northward through the narrow channels, separating the rocky islets that 
 are strewed between Penguin island and the main land. The bottom, 
 besides, is not only deep, 23 to 30 fathoms, but is very foul and rocky ; 
 and although a ship may be prevented from drifting through by dropping 
 an anchor, yet its loss, from the foulness of the ground, would be almost 
 certain. In entering the bay, border pretty close to the low rocky point to 
 the southward, to avoid a reef that lies about a quarter of a mile without 
 it ; but, as the sea always breaks upon it, the eye, and a due consideration 
 of the tide are the best guides. This reef extends for some distance to the 
 eastward of the breakers, and, therefore, the tides, when within it, sets in 
 or out of the bay, but with little strength. Should a ship not be able to 
 enter the bay, there is anchorage off the point between it and the reef, on, 
 I believe, tolerably clean ground. You will have 12 or 13 fathoms, off the 
 reef, then the depth shoals for one or two heaves to 7 fathoms, after which 
 it deepens again ; you may then haul across the bay, and anchor at about a 
 quarter of a mile within the low rocky point, bearing E. N. or E. by N., 
 by compass, in 4 fathoms low water, avoiding the kelp which projects off 
 from the sandy beaches. A small vessel may easily turn in, but 1 should 
 hesitate taking such a step in one that I could not make quite certain of. 
 When once in the anchorage is good, and protected at all points, except 
 between N. 41 and N. 78 ^ E., but from the appearance of the beaches 
 I do not think a heavy sea is ever thrown into it. 
 
 There is no wood to be procured of any size, and the few gallons of water 
 that are collected in the wells at the point, so very precarious as to be 
 scarcely worth attention. The passage to the watering holes is over a small 
 rocky bar, which a boat may cross at three-quarters flood ; it is immediate- 
 ly within the eastern point of the bay ; there is a small spring at the north 
 end of the third sandy beach, which a herd of guanacoes was observed to 
 visit every morning ; but as the water only trickles down in a very small 
 quantity, it cannot afford more than a temporary supply. Two of the 
 three wells at the point we found to be full of sea water, which had breach- 
 ed over the rocks ; the other contained about 40 gallons of rather a brack- 
 ish taste. Besides a good and secure anchorage this place affords no other 
 advantages ; it is convenient for sealing vessels to anchor in whilst employ- 
 ed in their occupation upon Penguin island. Sea Bear Bay is in latitude 
 47 56' 49" S. and longitude 65 44" TV., variation 20 : high water, at full 
 and change, at 12h. 45', and the tide rises 20 feet.
 
 329 
 
 FERRER, OR SPYRING BAY is contained between the south head of Sea 
 Bear bay and the point within the Shag rock ; it forms a considerable 
 bight, but is much exposed, being quite open to the south and east, and at 
 the conclusion of a S. W. gale, when the wind always veers to S. and S. by 
 E., there is a considerable sea. The shore is skirted, for some distance off, 
 with many rocks, and the bay, altogether, is quite unfit for anchorage. 
 The land is of the same height as about Sea Bear bay, but has more lumps 
 or nobules of rocky hills, visible on the outline of its summit. 
 
 The Ferrer or Shag rock is a whiteish mass of rock, perfectly bare, lying 
 about one mile and a half off shore ; two miles to the south of it are four 
 small dark coloured rocks, and at three miles, S. S. "W. from it, there is 
 rather a large rocky islet. On the land, and at a short distance from the 
 coast, are three hills, which appear, when a little to the southward of Sea 
 Bear bay, like three round-topped hills; but on reaching more to the 
 southward they extend in length, and form into two hills, and, at three 
 leagues to the south of the Shag rock, they appear to form one mass of 
 table land. 
 
 WATCHMAN'S CAPE is very low, and may be distinguished by its bell- 
 shaped mount ; at two leagues from the point is a shoal with kelp upon it, 
 on which the least water is 3 fathoms, but on approaching it the depth 
 gradually decreases ; there are also many other shoal patches, but all are 
 buoyed with sea- weed ; the ship, Adventure, passed between several in 7 
 and 9 fathoms. The ground is very foul and uneven for more than 4 miles 
 from Watchman's cape ; here the coast trends round to the westward, and 
 becomes higher. 
 
 The BELLACO ROCK, or San Estevan's (Stephen's) shoal, which was 
 discovered by the Nodal es, in 1619, was searched for in vain in the Descu- 
 bierta and Atrevida's voyage ; but, Captain Stokes, in the early part of 
 1828, on his voyage down the coast, found it, and had an observation of 
 the sun close to it for the latitude ; it is in latitude 48 30' 50" S., and 
 longitude 66 9' 25" W. It bears S. E. by S. 10| miles from the extremity 
 of Watchman's cape, and S. E. from Monte Video. The rock is a dark 
 mass, about 9 or 10 feet above the water at high tide, and has the appear- 
 ance of a boat turned bottom up ; within half a mile of its south side the 
 Beagle sounded in 12 and 15 fathoms, rocky bottom, and on its east side, 
 at the same distance, the depth is from 20 to 24 fathoms. The ground 
 around it being foul and uneven the coast and its neighbourhood should be 
 avoided. Between Watchman's cape and Port St. Julian the land is of 
 moderate height. 
 
 The whole of the coast between Cape Blanco and Port St. Julian is much 
 strewed with shoals, which are the more dangerous from the strength of 
 the tides which set between them. In navigating upon this part of the 
 coast, the depth and quality of the soundings is a good guide ; and, as a 
 general rule, when the depth is more than 40 fathoms, there exists no 
 known danger. By night, in particular, regard should be paid to the tide, 
 which sets with considerable strength, the current running parallel with 
 the shore. 
 
 PORT ST. JULIAN. Wood's mount, in latitude 49 14' S., and longitude 
 67 44' W., is visible from the deck for at least 1 1 leagues, and is a good 
 mark for Port St. Julian, being flat-topped and much more elevated than 
 the land about it ; the trend of the coast may also be a good mark ; but, as 
 the land about Port St. Julian is higher than to the southward or northward, 
 and Wood's mount is so remarkable a feature, no mistake can be made ; in 
 a line with the south point of entrance the mount bears W. 16^ S. (N. 
 W.) The north head, Cape Curioso, is a low point jutting out to 
 
 T T
 
 330 
 
 the northward, formed of cliffs horizontally stratified, of which the upper 
 part is white-brown, and the lower generally black, or with black streaks. 
 Keeping Wood's mount bearing S. 67 W. will lead you to the south head, 
 which will be easily distinguished when at the distance of 6 or 8 miles, or 
 more, according to the state of the weather. 
 
 Captain Morrell has said, " It is somewhat difficult to find the entrance 
 to Port St. Julian, on account of its southern or outer point projecting past 
 the northern point, so as to conceal the opening. It may be known, how- 
 ever, by a large white cliff, stretching along shore from the south almost 
 to the mouth of the harbour. No trees are to be seen, but there are some 
 dark bushes on the sides of the hills. The bar, at the entrance of the port, 
 sometimes shifts and changes its position ; previous to attempting an 
 entrance, therefore, I would recommend sending in a boat to sound. In 
 entering the harbour the course is about S. <j W., and the water sufficiently 
 deep when you are once over the bar, on which will be found, in the channel, 
 about 4 fathoms, at full sea : the tide rises about 20 feet. Both wood and 
 water may be obtained, but with difficulty. A ship can lie in perfect 
 safety from all winds. The natives seldom visit the port, except for the 
 purpose of shipping." 
 
 The land to the southward of Port St. Julian is uniform, flat, and low ; 
 it is covered by scrubby bushes, and fronted by a shingle beach. At 10 
 or 12 miles south of it, coming from the E. S. E., a small flat-topped hill 
 is seen over the low coast hills. 
 
 In latitude 49 27' S., the character of the coast changes entirely to a 
 range of steep white clay cliffs, the average height of which was calculated, 
 by angular measurement, to be about 300 or 330 feet. They rise like 
 a wall from the sea, which, at high water, nearly washes their base ; but, 
 at low water, they are fronted by a considerable extent of beach, partly of 
 shingle and partly of mud. Some short rocky ledges, which break at half 
 tide, lie off certain parts of this range, but none of the ledges extend for 
 more than a mile from the shore ; this cliffy range occasionally forms 
 projections, but so slight as not to be perceived when passing abreast 
 of them. 
 
 Anchorages along the coast may be taken up, with the wind off shore, 
 at from a mile to two miles from the beach, in from 9 to 12 and 14 fathoms, 
 oozy bottom. In latitude 49 55' S. the range of steep white cliffs begins 
 gradually to diminish in height, and terminates, at 9 miles further to the 
 southward in a low point, Punta Rasa, forming the northern side of the 
 entrance of Santa Cruz river. 
 
 SANTA CRUZ. The appearance of the coast about the entrance of the 
 river of Santa Cruz is very remarkable, and easy to be known, from the 
 manner in which it makes when seen from the northward, and is even 
 more conspicuous when seen from the southward. From the latter direc- 
 tion a coast line of cliffs and downs, of considerable height, is seen extending 
 to the southward of the entrance, as far as the eye can reach, and termina- 
 ting abruptly to the northward in a high, steep, flat-topped cliff, Mount 
 Entrance, of which the upper part descends vertically ; the lower slopes off, 
 and appears to be united with some very low land, which will be seen 
 extending (according to the distance off) two or three points of the compass 
 to the northward of it. Mount Entrance is at the south entrance of the 
 river, and is, by angular measurement, 356 feet high ; the low land is on 
 the northern side of the entrance of the river. 
 
 The outer part of the bar, on which, at low tide, there is 14 feet water, 
 is nearly 4 miles E. f S. (by compass) from Mount Entrance. Fourteen 
 miles up the river, on the south bank, is WeddeFs bluff, a conspicuous
 
 331 
 
 headland ; and eleven miles further is another, called Beagle ttujf. Wed- 
 del's bluff, open of the south entrance, (and in a line with the centre Sea-Lion 
 island) bearing N. W. by W. ^ W., is the leading mark for the passage 
 over the bar ; with this mark on, and at high water, the Beagle crossed 
 the bar, in 7^ fathoms. The Beagle bluff, a little open of the low points 
 of the north side of the river, is also a leading mark to cross the bar. 
 
 After passing the bar, which is about a mile broad, there is no impedi- 
 ment to a free course up the river, keeping midway between the narrow 
 points of entrance, until reaching the shoals which project off the east point 
 of Sea-Lion island. The best anchorage seems to be on the south side of 
 Sea-Lion island, where the water is shoaler, and the tide not so strong. 
 
 The shore on the S. W. side is a range of clay cliffs, of the average height 
 of 250 feet, with grassy downs, and intersected with vallies and ravines. 
 On the eastern side, the land, for the most part, is low and level, with a 
 shingle beach ; the aspect of the country is dreary, the soil gravelly, and 
 the vegetation scanty, the largest production of that nature being bushes 
 bearing berries, none of which exceed 7 or 8 feet in height. Many brant 
 geese and ducks were seen, as well as the common sea-fowl of these parts, 
 such as penguins, cormorants, gulls, ducks, and divers, several ostriches 
 also made their appearance on the beach, and traces of guanacoes were 
 observed. 
 
 At an anchorage outside the bar, Mount Entrance bearing nearly W. by S., 
 and Weddel's bluff W. N., the Beagle rode out a gale from the S. S. W. 
 and South, with a heavy sea, without driving. The tides, in the offing, 
 were observed to flow very regularly 6 hours each way, but to turn 2 
 hours later than the tune of high water in shore, the flood setting to the 
 northward. 
 
 On the 24th January, 1824, Mr. "Weddel put into Santa Cruz, and from 
 his observations we extract the following : " The entrance cannot be seen 
 at any great distance, as the land which lies behind covers it, but by the 
 latitude it may be easily found. The shore on the left or south side is high, 
 while that on the right is quite low. On the south side is a reef of rocks, 
 which show at low water ; and on the north side is a shoal, almost dry at 
 low water, which probably shifts. The leading mark into the river is a 
 distant bluff,* which appears over the middle of the entrance, bearing 
 N. "W. by W. ^ W. After passing the points of the entrance, two inden- 
 tations will be seen, on the south shore, and in the second one is the best 
 anchorage, in 5 fathoms, bottom of gravel and clay. All the north side of 
 the river is shoal, and much of it dries at low water. The tide of flood, on 
 the coast, runs to the northward, and, in strong southerly winds, continues 
 to run two hours after the time of high water by the shore." 
 
 COY INLET. Between Santa Cruz and this inlet the coast trends slightly 
 in, and is formed by a succession of cliffs and intervening low beaches. 
 Coy inlet is conspicuous, as it is the only part of the coast that has the 
 appearance of one between Santa Cruz and Cape Fairweather. When 
 within 7 miles of its latitude, 50 57' S., as well to the northward as to the 
 southward of it, a ship should keep at the distance of 4 or 5 miles off the 
 coast. There can be no inducement to go nearer, as it affords neither fuel 
 nor water ; and, if incautiously approached, much trouble and even danger 
 may ensue, from the ledges of rocks which project, at least, 3 miles, and 
 perhaps more, from the coast. 
 
 From Coy INLET to CAPE FAIRWEATHER the coast is similar to the 
 
 Called by Captain King Weddel's bluff.
 
 332 
 
 northern part, but more free from rocky ledges ; and good anchorage may 
 be had from two to six miles off shore, in from 7 to 12 and 14 fathoms, 
 muddy bottom, the water shoaling gradually to the shore. The beach is 
 of shingle to high water mark, and then of hard clay, as far as 100 feet 
 beyond the low water limit, where a green muddy bottom commences, and 
 the water gradually deepens ; the outer edge of the clay is bounded by a 
 ledge of rocks, on which the sea breaks, it extends for some distance parallel 
 with the coast. 
 
 The flood sets to the N. W. by N. and the ebb S. E. by S., six hours 
 each way ; high water, at full and change, between 9 and 10 o'clock, and 
 the tide rises 24 feet. In latitude 51 16' S., about 17 miles north of the 
 cape, there is a ravine containing abundance of fresh water, which may be 
 obtained, when the wind is off shore, without any difficulty ; it is standing 
 water, and, being much grown over with plants, may not keep, but, for a 
 temporary supply, it seemed to be very good. 
 
 CAPE FAIRWEATHER is the south extremity of the long range of 
 clay cliffs that extends from Coy inlet, almost without a break. The cape 
 resembles very much Cape St. Vincent, on the coast of Spain ; it also bears 
 a very great resemblance to Cape Virgins, for which it has frequently been 
 taken, notwithstanding there is more than 45 miles difference in the 
 latitude of the two headlands. The cliffs are of clay, from 300 to 400 feet 
 high, and are horizontally stratified, the strata extending for many miles 
 without interruption. The interior is formed by open plains of undulating 
 country, covered with grass and plants, among which is abundance of wild 
 thyme, but entirely destitute of trees : it abounds with guanacoes, which 
 may be procured by lying in wait for them at the water holes. Besides 
 the pond before mentioned, there is no want for fresh water, it may be seen 
 trickling down the face of the cliffs, at short intervals. 
 
 RIVER GALLEGOS. The entrance of this river is formed, on the north 
 side, by the cliffy land of Cape Fairweather, and on the south by a low 
 shore, that is not visible at sea for more than 4 or 5 leagues, excepting the 
 hills in the interior, called the Friars, the Convents, and North-hill ; it is 
 fronted by extensive sand-banks, most of which may be crossed at high 
 water, but at half-ebb they are almost all dry. The entrance is round the 
 south extremity of the shoals, which bear from the south trend of the cape 
 S. E. by E. ^ E. (S. 43| E.) distant 10 miles. The passage in is parallel 
 with the coast to the southward of the entrance, taking care not to open 
 the land to the northward of Cape Fairweather's most eastern trend, 
 which, when in the fair-way, should bear N. 40 W. The shore on the 
 larboard hand must then be gradually approached, and, in the present 
 state of the knowledge we possess, the ship should be anchored to await 
 low water, in 10 fathoms, at a mile and a half from the shore, so soon as 
 the south point begins to be observed to trend round to the westward ; 
 the anchorage there is good, and well sheltered from the prevailing winds. 
 
 By anchoring the passage in will be easily found, and may be passed 
 before the shoals are again covered, which will be a good guide ; 4 fathoms 
 is the depth, at low water, in the narrowest part of the channel. Anchor- 
 age may be taken up on the south side, for to the northward the banks 
 are extensive. 
 
 There is also a middle, and as it appears to be the widest, may be the 
 best, channel for crossing the bar; the outer part was not completely 
 examined, but, no doubt, there is a sufficient depth of water, at three- 
 quarters flood, for any vessel to pass it. The southern channel, however, 
 is preferable from having the land as a guide 
 
 The river runs in to the westward for 30 miles, and then winds more
 
 333 
 
 southerly between two ranges of hills. Its banks are formed of downs, 
 abounding with guanacoes and ostriches. The water is fresh at 25 miles 
 from the mouth. In the entrance the time of high water, at full and 
 change, is 8 h. 50 m. ; the rise of tide, at the springs, is 46 feet, and the 
 stream runs as much as 5 miles an hour. 
 
 From the south entrance of the Gallegos river the coast, towards Cape 
 Virgins, extends in a more easterly direction than it does to the northward 
 of Cape Fairweather ; and, for the first half of the distance, is formed by 
 a low shelving coast, that, at a few leagues from the shore, is not visible, 
 so that a stranger might readily suppose it to be the entrance of the Strait 
 of Magalhaens. There are, however, some marks by which it may be 
 known, even should the latitude not have been ascertained. In clear 
 weather, the Friars, and the other hills near them, would be visible ; and, in 
 thick weather the soundings off the cape will be an infallible guide, for, at 
 the distance of 4 miles off, no more than 4 fathoms will be found, whereas, 
 at that distance from Cape Virgins the depth is considerable ; the bottom, 
 also, to the north of Cape Fairweather is of mud, whilst that to the north 
 of Cape Virgins is of gravel, or coarse sand, and the latter cape has a long 
 low point of shingle running off it, for nearly 5 miles to the S. W. ; and, 
 lastly, if the weather be clear, the distant land of Tierra del Fuego will be 
 visible to the S. S. W. 
 
 At 1 8 miles to the southward of Cape Fairweather the cliffs again com- 
 mence, and continue to Cape Virgins, with only one or two breaks, in 
 one of which, 8 miles north of the latter cape, there may be landing for a 
 boat. There is good anchorage, generally, all along the coast, at from two 
 to five miles off shore ; but the bottom is rather stony, and may injure 
 hempen cables. As the cape is approached, the ground becomes more foul. 
 
 STRAIT OF MAGALHAEN, commonly called the Straits of Magel- 
 lan, was discovered by Fernando Magalhaens, in 1520; its length, in a 
 straight line, is above 200 miles, but, if the three great bends are taken 
 into the account, it is rather more than 300 miles. It divides the continent 
 of South America from the South American archipelago, commonly called 
 Tierra del Fuego. The eastern entrance is formed by Cape de las Virgines 
 on the continent, and by Cape del Espiritu Santo, or Queen Catherine's 
 foreland, which is on King Charles's Southland, the largest of the islands 
 composing Tierra del Fuego. At its western entrance are Cape Pillar on 
 the south, on the island of South Desolation, and Cape Victory on the 
 north, on a small island belonging to Queen Adelaide's archipelago. 
 
 This strait may be considered as divided into three parts. The eastern 
 part extends from Cape de las Virgines to Cape Negro, and its direction, as 
 far as the first narrow, is nearly west, but afterwards to the south of west. 
 In two places the strait contracts to a width of 5 or 6 miles, forming the 
 two narrows, of which the eastern is called de la Esperanza, and the second 
 that of S. Simon. The country on both sides of this part of the strait is 
 rather level, except that, at some distance from the shore, a range of hills 
 rises on each side to a moderate height, but with rather a precipitous 
 ascent. No trees grow in this country ; the bushes are few in number and 
 stunted, and the grass coarse though abundant. 
 
 The central portion of the strait, from Cape Negro to Cape Froward, 
 lies north and south, and is the widest part, extending in two large inlets, 
 called the Useless bay and Admiralty sound, deep into King Charles's 
 Southland. This part of the strait is the easiest to navigate, being free from 
 islands and cliffs, except the large island of Dawson. The country on both 
 sides rises into high mountains, especially in the neighbourhood of Cape 
 Froward, and on the opposite coast of King Charles's Southland ; some of
 
 334 
 
 the peaks are above the snow-line, which here occurs at about 3,500 feet 
 above the sea level. Mount Sarmiento, on Tierra del Fuego, attains the 
 height of 6,800 feet. Between the mountains there are valleys of some 
 extent, which, as well as the lower part of the mountains themselves, 
 are covered with a heavy growth of timber-trees. 
 
 The western part of the strait extends from Cape Froward to Cape 
 Pillar, in a direction nearly S. E. and N. W. This part is very difficult to 
 navigate on account of its narrowness, the width varying between 5 and 
 25 miles, and also by reason of the numberless cliffs and islets with which 
 the shores, especially on the north side, are lined. To these disadvantages 
 must be added the N. W. gales, which sweep with incredible force along 
 the channel of the strait. The mountains, on each side, are not so high as 
 along the central portion, and rarely attain the snow line ; but their huge 
 masses approach so close to the shores, that, in many places, it is difficult 
 to find as much level ground as is required to place a boat upon. Land- 
 locked basins, of moderate extent, however, occur in several places, and 
 afford safe harbours. The mountains, which consist mostly of granite and 
 greenstone, are irregularly heaped together, most of them, for two-thirds of 
 their height, are covered with trees of a stunted growth. Two large 
 inland salt water lakes are united with this portion of the strait. Nearly 
 opposite the S. E. extremity of the large island of South Desolation 
 (FuEGo) a channel opens eastward into the continent ; this strait, called 
 Jerome channel, leads to Otway water^ a large inland sea, 50 miles long, 
 trending to the N. E., and separated from the eastern portion of the strait 
 only by a narrow isthmus. From this lake another channel, called Fitzroy 
 channel, 12 miles long, leads in a N. AY. direction to another inland lake, 
 called Skyring water, which is about 34 miles long and 12 wide. The 
 country bordering these lakes on the south and west is high, rocky, and 
 mostly covered with trees; whilst that which encloses them on the east 
 and north is a low undulating grassy plain, without trees. 
 
 CAPE VIRGINS TO PORT FAMINE. 
 
 CAPE VIRGINS, a steep cliff about 300 feet high, in latitude 52 18' 35" S., 
 and longitude 68 17' 30" "W., is the southern extremity of the Patagonian 
 coast, and the north entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens. There is a reef 
 extending half a mile off the point, the Adventure passed at one mile and 
 a half from it, sounding in 8 fathoms, stones ; and then, standing to the 
 south, crossed a bank of gravel, sounding regularly in 7 fathoms, until 
 Dungeness point bore S. "W. by W., when the water deepened. In rounding 
 the cape, unless the wind be easterly or southerly, a ship should pass 
 within 1^ mile of the cape, and steer S. by E. until Dungeness bears S. W., 
 then to edge away round the latter point, and afterwards the coast is clear 
 to Cape Possession. In moderate weather, ships may anchor anywhere 
 between Dungeness and Cape Possession, the bottom is of good holding 
 ground, and quite clean. At from 3 to 5 miles from the coast the depth 
 will be from 1 5 to 20 fathoms. 
 
 We know nothing of the 1' uegian shore, or south side of the entrance. 
 The Beagle, in beating in, made a board for 8 miles to the southward of 
 Dungeness, and had 40 fathoms; but I believe the coast to be of shoal 
 approach, and to be lined by a bank that is connected to the extensive reefs 
 which project from Cape Orange. 
 
 CAPE POSSESSION is a cliffy headland on the north shore, and will be
 
 335 
 
 seen opening round Dungeness, on the magnetic bearing of nearly W. \ S. ; 
 the distance between them is 20 miles; at 10 or 12 miles to the west of 
 Dungeness, Mount Aymond will make its appearance, bearing about W. ^ 
 N. POSSESSION BAY extends from Cape Possession to the First Narrow ; 
 it curves in to the northward round the cape, fronted by an extensive shoal, 
 stretching off for more than 4 miles from the shore, many parts of which 
 are dry at half-tide ; on its south side the depth diminishes gradually, and 
 offers good anchorage for vessels entering the strait to await the tide for 
 passing the First Narrow. 
 
 On the western side of the bay are the Direction hills, rendered remark- 
 able by being of a darker green hue than others near them ; after passing 
 Cape Possession they afford a good mark for approaching the Narrows, 
 which are not visible until well across the bay ; by attention also to their 
 bearings, the shoal that extends off Cape Orange may be avoided. To 
 take up an anchorage on the bank great attention must be paid to the 
 soundings, which at the edge decrease suddenly ; it would not be advisable 
 to anchor in less than 10 or 12 fathoms at high water, for the tide falls 6 or 
 7 fathoms ; but as the stream runs much weaker on approaching the edge 
 of the bank, the nearer to it the better. A good berth for anchoring is to 
 get the northern Direction hill (which is dark coloured and very conspicu- 
 ous) to bear S. W. by W.; Mount Aymond, N. W. W. ; and the 
 highest (easternmost) peaked hillock upon Cape Orange, about S. S. E. 
 When the hill above noticed bears S. W. by W., and Mount Aymond N. W. 
 by W. W., you are in 19 or 20 fathoms, just off the edge of the bank ; 
 about half to one mile more to the northward, or north-westward, good 
 anchorage may be selected out of the strength of the tide. 
 
 There is, however, a more advanced situation about half a mile to the 
 eastward of the end of the shoal, that may easily be taken up, namely, that 
 where 14 fathoms is marked on the chart, for which the following are the 
 bearings, the northern Direction hill, S. W. by "W. ; Mount Aymond, N. 
 W. 5 N. ; Peak of Cape Orange nearly S. S. E. One mile more in ad- 
 vance to the S. W. would still be a better berth, but great care must be 
 taken not to ground on the tail of the shoal ; at about half a mile more to 
 the eastward the situation would be secure. Should the distant land 
 behind Cape Gregory be seen, which makes with a long blue level strip of 
 land, terminating at its S. "W. end with rather a bluff or precipitous fall, it 
 is a good mark for the above anchorage. There is also a conspicuous lump 
 on the same land, which will be seen to the northward of the northern 
 Direction hill ; and the Asse's ears, nearly out of sight, should be seen a 
 little to the eastward of that part of the shore of Possession bay where the 
 cliffy coast commences. 
 
 To avoid the north shoals do not get the north Direction hill to bear 
 more southerly than S. W. by W. ; and the mark for avoiding the reefs 
 that extend off Cape Orange is not to get the same Direction hill to bear 
 more westerly than W. by S. S., until Mount Aymond bears nearly N. 
 W. W. or the peak of Cape Orange S., when the fair- way of the First 
 Narrow will be open, bearing S. W. by S. The N. or N. W. side of the 
 First Narrow is a cliff of moderate height, and makes like a flat table-land. 
 When abreast of Cape Orange a S. S. W. course must be steered. The 
 tide sets right through, so that in drifting, which with the wind against 
 the tide, is the safest and best plan, there is no danger of being thrown 
 upon the shoals. 
 
 The first Narrow, called Angostura de Nuestra Senora d'Esperanza, is 
 3 leagues long, and less than half a league wide, with cliffy shores, the tide 
 running strong, and the depth more than 50 fathoms, sand and pebbles ;
 
 336 
 
 and on the north shore there is a beach of shingle. In this part, however, 
 as discretion must be the best guide, it will be necessary merely to state 
 the dangers that exist. To the north of Point Delgada the shore is fronted 
 by extensive shoals that dry at half tide : these should not be apprached. 
 The south shore, also, for nearly 5 miles to the west of Cape Orange, 
 has a shoal off it, but it does not extend to a great distance from the 
 beach ; beyond this it is not safe to approach either shore within half a 
 mile, for each is fronted by a bank that dries at low water. The western 
 end of the narrow on the north shore, Point Barranca (meaning a cliff) has 
 a considerable reef off it, upon which there is a very large quantity of kelp. 
 
 After emerging from the narrow, the ship should be allowed to drift 
 with the tide, the course of which is S. S. W. for at least 3 miles, before 
 hauling up for Cape Gregory, in order to avoid the ripplings which rage 
 furiously on each edge of the bank. It is an anchorage that ought not to 
 be taken up without the greatest necessity, for the ripplings break over the 
 deck, and the security of the vessel very doubtful. After reaching thus 
 far steer W. S. W., until abreast of some remarkable peaked hillocks on 
 the north shore, where, if necessary, anchorage may be had, out of the tide, 
 in from 6 to 10 fathoms; at any part of the northern side of the bay the 
 anchorage is good, upon a clay bottom covered with broken shells; the 
 lead brings up nothing but shells, underneath, however, it is of clay, and 
 good holding ground. It is best to anchor near the shore, on account of 
 the tide, which ripples very much all over the centre of the bay. 
 
 The peaked hillock, above-mentioned, is certainly Sarmiento's Point 
 Nuestra Senora del Valle, to the eastward of it is St. lago bay, and to the 
 westward his bay of the Eleven Thousand Virgins. When abreast of the 
 point, the land and bay to the north of Cape Gregory will be easily 
 distinguished, the former will be first seen, and resembles an island, for 
 the land of the bay is flat and low ; but a very conspicuous hummock will 
 also be seen half-way between it and the flat table-land, as soon as the land 
 of the cape becomes visible. 
 
 The extremity of Cape Gregory bears, from the western end of the First 
 Narrow, S. W. W. (W. S. W. W.) distant 22 miles. The anchorage 
 is from 2 to 2| miles to the N. N. E. of the cape, abreast of the north end 
 of the sand-hills that form the headland, and at about one mile from the 
 shore, in from 13 to 15 fathoms. The bottom is excellent, a soft but tena- 
 cious mud, which, nearer the shore, is of a stiffer quality. At low water 
 a sand-spit extends off for one-third, or nearly half a mile, from the shore, 
 close to which there are 7 fathoms water ; care shold be taken not to ap- 
 proach too near. At the anchorage the tide turns to the S. W. towards 
 the cape, for two and a half or three hours before it begins to run to the 
 westward in the Second Narrow, which should be attended to, for a ship 
 will lose much ground by weighing before an hour or more after the tide 
 has turned. Upon the summit of the land of the cape, four-fifths of a mile 
 to the northward of the extreme point, is a remarkable bush, close to which 
 the observations were made. The bush is in latitude 52 38' 3" S. and 
 longitude 70 9' 51" W. ; the variation of the compass 23 34' E. 
 
 The Second Narrow is about 10 miles long, and, with a favourable tide, 
 which runs 5 or 6 knots, is very quickly passed. With an adverse wind a 
 ship will easily reach an anchorage to the north of Elizabeth island. The 
 north side of the Second Narrow is very shoal, and ought not to be ap- 
 proached, for the ground is also very foul. There are two or three very 
 inviting bights for a ship that is caught with the tide, but it is not advisable 
 to anchor in them ; it is better to return to the anchorage off Cape Gregory. 
 In Susannah cove there is anchorage in 8 fathoms, low water, half a league
 
 337 
 
 from the land, good bottom. The south shore of the Second Narrow, called 
 the Sweepstakes foreland, is composed of cliffs, and of bold approach. The 
 projecting head, in the centre, is called St. Simon's head, and the western 
 end is named Cape St. Vincent, from its resemblance to that of Spain. To 
 the southward of the eastern point of this head, Point St. Isidro, which is 
 a low sandy point, is Fish cove, in which there is anchorage in 6 fathoms, 
 sandy bottom. Three miles to the westward of Cape Gracia, the western 
 end of the Second Narrow, on the north side, is OAZY HARBOUR, a secure 
 place for small vessels; the entrance is nearly two miles long, and too 
 narrow for large ships, unless the weather be moderate, when they might 
 drop in or out with the tide : the depth inside is from 3 to 10 fathoms. 
 There is neither wood nor water to be got, and therefore no inducement 
 to enter it. 
 
 PECKETT'S HARBOUR is 8 miles to the west of Cape Gracia, and, although 
 very shoal, offers a good shelter, if required, for small vessels, but the space 
 is very confined ; the anchorage without is almost as safe, and much more 
 convenient. The distance between the two points of entrance is nearly two 
 miles, but from the N. E. shore to the small island off the S. "W. point the 
 whole space is a shoal, upon the greater part of which the sea breaks in a 
 moderate breeze. The entrance is between the S. W. point and the island, 
 and is rather more than one-fifth of a mile wide. Half a mile outside the 
 anchorage is good, in 7 fathoms ; shoal ground extends for a quarter of a 
 mile off the point. 
 
 The bay, which is formed by Peckett's harbour and Elizabeth island, is 
 extensive and well sheltered, with an easy depth of water all over, between 
 5 and 7 fathoms, the nature of the bottom is clay, and offers excellent 
 holding ground. In the centre is a patch of kelp, but it is not known 
 whether the depth is shoaler in that part, or whether it proceeds from the 
 bottom being rocky. The tide is not strong to the westward of the north 
 end of Elizabeth island, but runs with considerable velocity in the deep 
 channel between it and the Second Narrow. To the southward of the 
 island the stream divides into two directions, and very soon loses its 
 strength ; one sets down the south side of the island, and the other between 
 the islands of Santa Martha and Magdalena ; this is the flood, the ebb sets 
 to the northward. The ebb and flow are regular, high water, at the full 
 and change, being at about 12 o'clock. 
 
 There is good anchorage, out of the strength of the tide, at a mile to the 
 north of Point San Silvestre ; it is convenient for a ship to leave with the 
 intention of passing round Elizabeth island, this is considered the most 
 difficult part of the entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens, for the tide sets 
 across the passage with some strength. 
 
 The passage to the west of the island is clear, and without danger, by 
 keeping in the middle part of the channel ; but, in passing down the south 
 side of Elizabeth island, the shore should be kept close-to, to avoid being 
 thrown upon the islands of Santa Martha and Magdalena, although there 
 is plenty of water between them, as well as to clear the shoal that extends 
 off the S. W. end of the latter island, upon which there is not less than 5 
 fathoms water upon any part ; but the ground being irregular, and much 
 kelp strewed about, it is not safe to trust too much to appearances. On all 
 occasions it is advisable to avoid passing through kelp, for, although it 
 frequently shoots up from 10 and even 20 fathoms, yet wherever the 
 bottom is rocky there it is to be found. The presence of this vegetable 
 renders the few dangers that exist in the navigation of the strait of little 
 consequence, for it serves as a buoy to mark the existence of them, and it 
 is only by a careless look-out that a ship can be placed in a dangerous 
 
 TJ u
 
 338 
 
 situation. Another advantage in kelp is, that by its drift it shews both 
 the direction and velocity of the tide. 
 
 LAREDO BAY offers good anchorage in the centre and towards the north 
 side, and particularly in the N. W. corner. Off the south point is a large 
 patch of kelp, among which the ground is shoal and foul. Here wood may 
 be procured, and there is a fresh water lake, of a mile in diameter, at about 
 half a mile behind the beach, much frequented by wild ducks. For the 
 purpose of anchorage only, the bay need not be entered, because a very 
 good and secure berth may be found at from one to two miles off it, in 10 
 to 13 fathoms, having the S. W. extremity of Elizabeth island on with, or 
 a little open of, the trend of Cape Negro. We know scarcely anything of 
 the south side of St. Phillip's bay, or of the coast between Cape St. Vincent 
 and Cape Monmouth. The latter is a lee shore, and should not be ap- 
 proached when the wind is northerly, for there seems to be no harbour or 
 shelter, and the anchorage must be much exposed. Two deep inlets were 
 seen behind Sweepstakes foreland, from the summit of the table-land near 
 Cape Gregory, one of which may probably insulate it, but this was not 
 ascertained. Between Cape Negro and Sandy point is Catalina bay, here 
 good anchorage may be had, from one to two miles and a half from the 
 shore. Here the country begins to be thickly wooded, and to assume a 
 very picturesque appearance, particularly in the vicinity of Sandy point. 
 
 SANDY POINT projects for more than a mile from the line of coast, 
 and should not be passed within a mile. A shoal projects off it in an 
 easterly direction, the mark for its south edge is a single tree, on a remark- 
 able clear part of the country (a park like meadow) near the shore, on the 
 south side of the point, in a line with a deep ravine in the mountain behind. 
 One mile and a half from the point we had no bottom with 18 fathoms. 
 To the southward of Sandy point, as far as Point St. Mary, good anchorage 
 may be had at three-quarters of a mile from the shore, in 11 and 12 
 fathoms, sand and shells over clay. At the edge of the kelp, which fronts 
 the shore, there are 5 and 6 fathoms; so that, with the wind off shore, a 
 ship may anchor or sail along it very close to the coast, by keeping outside 
 the kelp. The squalls off the land are very strong, sometimes so much so 
 as to lay a ship on her broadside. It is not prudent therefore to carry 
 much sail in coasting this part ; and it is necessary to have the quarter 
 boats secured with gripes, because the wind, for a moment, blows with 
 the force of a hurricane. These land squalls are denominated by the 
 sealers " williwaws." 
 
 POINT ST. MARY is 12| miles to the south of Sandy point, and may be 
 known by the land trending in to the southward of it, forming Freshicater 
 bay. It has also a high bank close to the beach, with two patches bare of 
 trees, excepting a few dead stumps. All the points to the northward are 
 low, and thickly wooded. As the bay opens the bluff points at its south 
 end become visible. When the wind is from the northward, a swell is 
 thrown into the bay ; but no danger need be apprehended from its being 
 open to the eastward, for the wind seldom blows from that quarter, ex- 
 cepting in the winter, and then rarely with great strength. If it does, the 
 holding ground is good, and with good gear there is no danger. 
 
 In standing into the bay, from the northward, keep within three-quarters 
 to half a mile from the coast, in 10 or 11 fathoms, and, passing Point St. 
 Mary, steer on towards the bluff points at the south end of the bay, until 
 the south pitch of the centre mount bears W. S. W., when you will be clear 
 of the kelp that extends off the north side of the bay, among which there is 
 a sufficiency of water, but the ground is foul ; round its edge there are 6 and 
 7 fathoms. Having the mount bearing as above steer for it, or a little to
 
 339 
 
 the south of it, and anchor in 9 fathoms, sandy mud over clay, which will 
 bo with the following bearings : Point St. Mary, N. by W. ^ W. ; Outer 
 Trend, N. f W. ; Centre Mount (south pitch) W. by N. ; entrance of river, 
 N. W. by X. ; and South bluff, nearly S. S. E. A good berth may be 
 had much nearer the shore in 6 fathoms, towards which the depth gradually 
 decreases. If the anchorage is used merely as a stopping place, the first is 
 best, for the wind near the shore is apt to flaw and veer about. Should 
 the day be advanced, it is better to anchor in Freshwater bay, than run 
 the risk of being under-way all night, unless it be in summer, with moon- 
 light, and the weather likely to be fine ; in this climate, however, the latter 
 is very doubtful, for the weather changes so suddenly that no dependance 
 can be placed upon appearances. 
 
 Between Freshwater bay and Point Santa Anna the coast is very bold, 
 and so steep-to as to offer no anchorage, excepting in the bay that is formed 
 by the reef off Rocky point ; but it is small and inconvenient to weigh from, 
 should the wind be southerly. POINT SANTA ANNA will appear, on standing 
 down near the coast, to be the termination of the land ; it is a long point 
 extending into the sea, having at the extremity a clump of trees ; it bears 
 from Cape Valentyn S. W. ^ W. On approaching it, the distant point of 
 Cape St. Isidro will be seen beyond it, but there can be no mistake in 
 recognising it. 
 
 TIDES. Along the whole extent of coast, between Point Santa Anna 
 and Elizabeth island, the flood sets to the southward and the ebb to the 
 northward, and it is high water about 12 o'clock, at full and change. The 
 variation is about 23 W. The strength of the tide is not great, but 
 frequently, after a southerly wind, there is, in the offing, a current to the 
 northward independent of the tide. In winter the tides occasionally rise 
 very high, and, on one occasion, in the month of June, nearly overflowed 
 the whole of the low land on the west side. 
 
 PORT FAMINE. In standing into this port pass round Point Santa Anna, 
 if with a leading wind, at one-fifth of a mile, in 17 fathoms ; but, if the 
 wind is scanty, do not get too near on account of the eddy tide, which 
 sometimes sets towards the point. Steer in for the bottom of the bay, for 
 the summit of Mount St. Philip, keeping it over the centre of the depth 
 of the bay ; that is half-way between the rivulet (which will be easily 
 distinguished by a small break in the trees) and the N. W. end of the 
 clear bank, on the west side of the bay. This bank being clear of trees, 
 and covered with grass, is very conspicuous. Keep on this course until 
 the mouth of Sedger river is open, and, upon shutting in the points of its 
 entrance, shorten sail and anchor in 9, 8, or 7 fathoms, as convenient. The 
 best berth, in summer, is to anchor over towards the west side, in 9 fathoms, 
 with Cape Valentyn in a line with Point Santa Anna ; but, in the winter 
 season, with N. E. winds, the best berth is more in the centre of the bay. 
 High water, at full and change, at 12 o'clock, the ebb sets to the north- 
 ward and the flood to the southward ; but the rise and fall is very irregular, 
 depending entirely upon the prevalence of the winds, northerly and easterly 
 winds causing high tides, and westerly and south-westerly low tides. The 
 variation is about 23 30'. 
 
 The strongest winds are from the S. W. ; it blows also hard sometimes 
 from South, and, occasionally, a fresh gale out of the valley, to the south 
 of Mount St. Philip. Unless a lonor stay be meditated, it would be sufficient 
 to moor with a kedge to the N. E. ; the ground is excellent all over the 
 port, being a stiff tenacious clay. Landing may be almost always effected, 
 excepting in easterly gales, on one side or the other. There is firewood in 
 abundance on the beaches, and wells, containing excellent fresh water, at
 
 340 
 
 the N. W. extremity of the clear part of Point Santa Anna, on the bank 
 above the third, or westernmost, small shingle bay. The water of the 
 river, as well as of the ponds, of which there are many upon the flat shore 
 of the western side of the port, is very good for present use, but will not 
 keep, in consequence of its flowing through an immense mass of decomposed 
 vegetable matter ; but the water of the wells drain through the ground, 
 and not only keeps well, but is remarkably clear and well tasted. 
 
 USELESS BAY is more than 30 miles deep, and from 12 to 20 wide, 
 entirely exposed to the S. "W. The north shore affords no shelter, but on 
 the south there is an indentation of the coast under Nose peak, that may 
 possibly afford a sheltered anchorage. 
 
 DAWSON ISLAND, fronting Useless bay, and the deep inlet, called ADMI- 
 RALTY SOUND, is 46 miles long and about 20 broad. Cape Valentyn, its 
 northern extremity, is low, but becomes visible, in passing down the 
 opposite shore, between Sandy point and Freshwater bay. Mount Graves, 
 however, is seen from a much greater distance. On the western side of 
 the island there are but two places in which vessels can anchor, viz : 
 Lomas bay and Port San Antonio, but, both being on a lee shore, they are 
 not to be recommended. Lomas bay is a deep bight, sufficiently sheltered 
 from S. W., but quite exposed to the N. W. and Westerly winds, which, 
 during the winter, are the most prevalent. It has been remarked by 
 Lieutenant Graves, " That Lomas bay, although only tolerably sheltered 
 from the prevailing winds, would, from its extent (six miles deep) and 
 nature of the bottom (a stiff blue clay) afford good shelter for vessels of 
 any draught or burthen." The appearance of the shores also seem to favour 
 such an opinion, for scarcely any drift wood was found thrown up, even in 
 those parts which are most exposed to the surf. Wood is sufficiently 
 plentiful, and water very abundant. 
 
 PORT SAN ANTONIO, situated about the centre of the west coast, has the 
 appearance of being well sheltered, but during a fortnight, says Captain 
 King, " That we spent there, we experienced so much inconvenience, and 
 even risk, from the violence of the squalls, that we were obliged to secure 
 the vessel with three anchors. We also found some difficulty in leaving 
 it, on account of the baffling winds, as well as the narrow width of the 
 passage, for we went out by the north entrance. It is a very unfit place 
 for a ship, or, indeed, for any vessel to enter, especially when there are so 
 many much better places on the opposite, or continental shore." 
 
 The anchorage is formed by a channel within the islands, North island 
 and San Juan island, in which, particularly at the north end, are several 
 islets. The anchor may be dropped in from 10 to 15 fathoms, off a small 
 beach in Humming-Bird cove, which is situated on the inner side, and 
 about half a mile from the south end of San Juan island. From the west 
 end of North island a reef extends off for a quarter of a mile ; and to the 
 southward are two small islets, which may be passed on either side ; North 
 island is separated from San Juan island by a narrow and impassable strait. 
 The south entrance -is, perhaps, the best, although with a northerly wind 
 the northern should be preferred. There is no danger but what is evident ; 
 the ground, however, is not very clean until you reach Humming-Bird 
 cove. PORT VALDEZ is a deep inlet fronting W. N. W. ; from the ap- 
 pearance of the hills squalls must be very frequent, and blow with the 
 greatest violence, for trees are seen torn up by the roots, in long lines, 
 evidently caused by the destructive force of the wind. The ebb tide sets 
 to the north through the channel. 
 
 THE GABRIEL CHANNEL separates Dawson island from the Tierra del 
 Fuego ; it is 25 miles long, and from half a mile to one mile and a half
 
 341 
 
 wide, the narrowest part being in the centre. The north shore is a ridge 
 of slate, rising abruptly to a sharp edge, and then as abruptly descending 
 on the opposite side, where it forms a valley. The south side is formed by 
 a high mass of mountains, probably the most elevated land in the Tierra 
 del Fuego, among many of its highest peaks are two more conspicuous 
 than the rest, Mount Sarmiento, and Mount Buckland. The first is 6,800 
 feet high, and, rising from a broad base, terminates in two peaked summits, 
 bearing from each other N. E. and S. W., and are about a quarter of a 
 mile asunder. It is the most remarkable mountain in the strait, but, from 
 the state of the climate, and its being clothed with perpetual snows, it is 
 almost always enveloped in condensed vapour. During a low temperature, 
 however, particularly with a N. E. or S. E. wind, when the sky is often 
 cloudless, it is exposed to view, and presents a magnificent appearance. 
 Mount Buckland is, by estimation, about 4,000 feet high ; it is a pyramidal 
 block of slate, with a sharp pointed apex, and entirely covered with 
 perpetual snow. At the extremity of the channel is Fitton harbour, and 
 on the opposite side of Cape Rowlett are Port Cooke and Brookes harbour. 
 
 PORT COOKE is a very convenient and useful port ; it is sheltered by a 
 high wooded island. The anchorage is off the rivulet, on the west side, in 
 9 fathoms. BROOKES HARBOUR is spacious, but not good as a port, for 
 the water is deep, and the anchorages, being in coves, are not easy of access 
 without the labour of towing. 
 
 ADMIRALTY SOUND is 7 miles wide at the entrance, and gradually dimin- 
 ishes to three. On its north side the shore is very straight, but the south 
 side has two deep inlets, Ainsworth and Parry harbours. It terminates 
 in a bay, affording anchorage in from 10 to 15 fathoms, but very much 
 exposed to N. W. winds, which, from the funnel shape of the sound, 
 doubtless blow with furious strength. On the north side of the bay is 
 Mount Hope, a lofty insulated mass of rock, but to the south of it lies a 
 considerable track of low land. In AINSWORTH HARBOUR there is anchor- 
 age at the bottom, on the west side. The mountains, at the back of the 
 harbour, are capped by an enormous glacier that descends into the sea. 
 PARRY HARBOUR is about 5 miles deep and 3 wide ; at the entrance, on 
 the west side, are two coves, either of which offer a convenient stopping 
 place for a small vessel. 
 
 The eastern side of DAWSON ISLAND is very much intersected by deep 
 inlets, particularly Brenton sound, and its termination, Port Owen, which 
 very nearly communicates with Lomas bay, the dividing land being low 
 and marshy. Wickam island, the large central island in Brenton sound, 
 is high, and there is a remarkably sharp-peaked hill upon it, which is seen 
 in clear weather from Port Famine. NON-ENTRY BAY was not examined, 
 it appeared to offer snug anchorage; the depth between the points of 
 entrance was from 9 to 19 fathoms. The bottom and south side of Fox 
 BAY are shoal, but the banks are indicated by kelp ; a rapid stream of 
 water empties itself into the bay : the anchorage is in from 3 to 5 fathoms. 
 The north head, Steep-Tree bluff, is of bold approach ; within 20 yards of 
 the shore the depth is 9 fathom?. HARRIS BAY is an indenture of the 
 coast two miles deep, and WILLES BAY, off which is Offing island, by 
 which it may be known, although of small extent, affords excellent anchor- 
 age, upon a mud bottom, in 9 or 10 fathoms. The tide rises and falls about 
 6 feet. It is high water, at full and change, about 12 o'clock. At the 
 bottom of Willes bay is Philip Gidley cove, where a small vessel may lie 
 in perfect security. There are not less than 3 fathoms in the entrance, and 
 inside, in most parts, there is the same depth. 
 
 CAPE ST. VALENTYN is the northern extremity of Dawson island ; it is
 
 342 
 
 low, and lias a small hummock near the point. Between the two points 
 which form the cape there is a slight incurvation of the shore, which would 
 afford shelter to small vessels from any wind to the southward of east or 
 west ; but the water is shoal, and the beach, below high water mark, is of 
 large stones. The coast to the S. W. is open, and perfectly unsheltered ; 
 it is backed by cliffs : the beach is of shingle. 
 
 MAGDALEN SOUND. In coming from the northward it appears to be a 
 continuation of the strait, and it is not until after passing Cape San Isidro 
 that the true channel becomes evident. It extends in a southerly direction 
 for 20 miles, and is bounded on either side by high and precipitous hills, 
 particularly on the west shore. The eastern entrance of the sound, Anxious 
 point, is a low narrow tongue of land, with an island off it. Opposite to it 
 is a steep mountain, called the Vernal, or Summer-house, from a remarkable 
 lump of rock on its summit. Under this mountain is HOPE HARBOUR, a 
 convenient stopping place for small vessels bound through the sound. The 
 entrance is narrow, with kelp across it, indicating a rocky bed, on which 
 we had not less than 7 fathoms. Inside it opens into a spacious basin, 
 with good anchorage in 4 fathoms, sheltered from all winds, excepting the 
 squalls off the high land, which must blow with furious violence during a 
 S. W. gale. To the south of Hope harbour, between the Vernal and Mount 
 Boqueron, is STOKES'S INLET ; it is 3 miles long, with deep water all over ; 
 there is a cove on its north side, but neither so good nor so accessible as 
 Hope harbour. In the entrance of the inlet are Rees islets. 
 
 MOUNT BOQUERON, the extremity of which is Squally point, is a very 
 precipitous and lofty mountain, about 3,000 feet high, and having on its 
 summit three small but remarkably conspicuous peaks. It is the eastern 
 head of Stokes's inlet, and forms a part of the western shore of Magdalen 
 sound ; the squalls that blow off this during a S. "VV. gale are most furious 
 and dangerous, unless little sail be carried. The sound here is not more 
 than 2^ miles wide. On the opposite shore, within Anxious point, is an 
 inlet extending to the S. E. for 2 or 3 miles, but it is narrow and unim- 
 portant. SHOLL BAY is a small bight, 5 miles to the south of Squally 
 point ; there is a reef off it, the position of which is pointed out by kelp. 
 On the opposite shore is KEATS SOUND, extending to the S. E. for 6 or 8 
 miles, and is between 4 and 5 miles wide. In the centre of Magdalen 
 sound, abreast of the above opening, is a rocky islet ; and at a short 
 distance to the southward, on the western coast, is a bay and group, 
 called Labyrinth islands, among which small vessels may find good an- 
 chorage. TRANSITION BAY is deep, and of little importance. Four miles 
 farther, at Cape Turn, the shore trends suddenly round. Here Magdalen 
 sound terminates, and COCKBURN CHANNEL commences. The bottom 
 of Magdalen sound is 6 miles wide, but at Cape Turn the channel 
 narrows to 2 miles, and in one part is not more than one mile and two- 
 thirds wide. 
 
 WARP BAY, although exposed to southerly winds, is a convenient stop- 
 ping place, and Stormy bay is a very wild unsheltered place, unfit for any 
 vessel to stop at. At the anchorage the water is deep, 17 to 20 fathoms, 
 and the bottom rocky. The bay is strewed over with shoals, the existence 
 of which is marked by kelp ; these narrow the channel so much as to 
 render the entrance and exit both intricate and difficult for any but a small 
 and handy vessel. PACK BAY is both very snug and secure, with good 
 anchorage in 12 fathoms, sand and mud. It has the same disadvantage as 
 Stormy bay, in being on the lee side of the channel, and is, therefore, 
 difficult to leave. There is, however, here more room to beat out, and no 
 dangers to encounter but what are visible. At the N. E. angle of the bay
 
 343 
 
 is a narrow isthmus, not more than 500 yards across, separating it from 
 Mercury sound, which was not examined. 
 
 In working down the channel, the south side should be preferred, as it 
 is a weather shore, and seems to be better provided with coves and harbours 
 to anchor in. KING AND FITZROY ISLANDS, in mid-channel, are of bold 
 approach, as are also KIRKES ROCKS, more to the westward. The flood 
 tide sets to the southward, or to seaward, but was not found to run with 
 sufficient strength to benefit or impede a vessel beating through. The rise 
 and fall is also inconsiderable, not being more than 6 or, at most 8 feet at 
 spring tides. 
 
 PROWSE ISLANDS. There are several anchorages among these islands, 
 which are very numerous, and skirt the coast for several miles. Behind 
 them the land trends in, and forms a deep sound. The Adelaide schooner 
 anchored in a bay, on the north side of one of the islands, opposite to 
 Barrow head, in 6 fathoms ; but there are many places of a similar nature, 
 equally convenient and secure. The distance across the channel, between 
 Prowse island and Barrow head, is scarcely one mile and a half. 
 
 DYNELY SOUND extends for more than 9 miles, in a N. W. direction, 
 into the interior of Clarence island. On the west side of its entrance is a 
 group of islands, affording several anchorages, one of them, Eliza bay, 
 affords shelter and security from all winds. 
 
 MELVILLE SOUND forms the embouchure of the Barbara and Cockburn 
 channels ; it is very extensive, and completely filled with islands. Some 
 of them are of large size, and all are of the most rugged and desolate 
 character. The offing is strewed with clusters of rocks; of these the East 
 and AVest Furies are the most remarkable, as well as the most important, 
 for the passage into the Cockburn channel lies between them. The former 
 are very near the land of Cape Schomberg. The West Furies bear from the 
 Tower rock, off Cape Noir, E. N., distant 25 miles; and S. S. W. f W. 
 11 miles from Mount Skyring. The Tussac rocks, which are two in 
 number, bear from the "West Furies E. N. E. ^ E., 4^ miles ; and in a line 
 between the East and "West Furies, 3 miles from the latter, and 2 from the 
 former, is a rock standing alone, it bears from Mount Skyring S. by W., 
 12^ miles. To avoid it, in entering, with a westerly wind, pass near the 
 West Furies, and steer for the Tussac rocks ; after passing these, there 
 are no known dangers in the entrance of the Cockburn channel. Mount 
 Skyring is a very prominent object, it rises to a peak to the height of 3,000 
 feet, and is in latitude 54 24' 44" S., and longitude 72 7' 40" W. The 
 variation is 25. 
 
 .BARBARA CHANNEL. Four remarkable mountains point out the southern 
 entrance to this channel very distinctly. The Kempe peaks are high, and shew 
 three points. The Fury peaks are high and divided; Mount Skyring is 
 high, and has a single peak ; St. Pauls is similar to, and in one view, from 
 near Fury island, appears very like the dome of the cathedral whose name 
 it bears. This entrance is so very much occupied by islands and rocks, 
 that no direct channel can be perceived. For small vessels there is neither 
 danger nor difficulty ; there are numerous anchorages that they might reach 
 without trouble, which would afford perfect security. Among MAGILL'S 
 ISLANDS there are several coves and anchorages. TOM'S HARBOUR is good 
 and well sheltered, excepting from the violent squalls off the high land, 
 which are so frequent everywhere among the coves of Tierra del Fuego. 
 For sealing vessels, however, it is more safe and secure than Fury harbour, 
 the place they usually frequent. Every thing that Fuegian harbours afford 
 is to be obtained in it. NORTH COVE, at the north side of Fury island, is a 
 snug and perfectly safe anchorage ; it is, however, only fit for small vessels.
 
 344 
 
 When there they are in security, but it must be remembered that there is 
 no anchorage in the channel, nor until you get into the cove, unless you 
 close the weather shore, and find a creek, in which the anchor will hold 
 you temporarily. At the south-east side of Fury island is FURY HARBOUR, 
 a very wild anchorage. From its contiguity to the East and West Furies, 
 and the Tussac rocks, on which seals are found, it is much frequented by 
 sealing vessels.* 
 
 BYNOE ISLAND affords an anchorage on its N. E. side ; and HEWETT 
 BAY is a good stopping place, either for entering or quitting the channel. 
 BROWN'S BAY is more extensive, but also affords good shelter in a small 
 cove at the north entrance, in 8 fathoms, sand, among some kelp. NORTH 
 ANCHORAGE, for a small vessel, is tolerably secure, but not to be recom- 
 mended. Between Hewett bay and North anchorage the channel is 
 strewed with many rocks and shoals, some of which, although covered 
 with kelp, only shew at half-tide. Much caution is therefore necessary, 
 and all patches of kelp should be carefully avoided. The tide, to the 
 northward of North anchorage, which, to the southward, was not of 
 sufficient consequence to interfere with the navigation of the channels, is 
 so much felt as to impede vessels turning to windward against it. 
 
 BEDFORD BAY is a good anchorage ; it is situated on the N. W. side of 
 the narrow part of the channel. Its depth is from 20 to 8 fathoms, good 
 holding ground, and perfectly sheltered from the prevailing winds. At its 
 entrance are several patches of kelp, the easternmost of which has 4 fathoms 
 on it. Here, as well as throughout the Barbara channel, the flood tide sets 
 to the southward. NUTLAND BAY, having 8 and 15 fathoms over a sand 
 and mud bottom, may be known by two small islands, Hill's islands, which 
 lie one mile N. N. E. from the anchorage. Between Bedford and Nutland 
 bays, and, indeed, as far as the Shag narrows, the channel is open, and 
 may be navigated without impediment. There are many bays and inlets 
 not here described or noticed, that may be occupied, but almost all require 
 to be examined. They all trend far enough into the land to afford good 
 shelter, but in many the bottom is foul and rocky, and the water too 
 deep for anchorage. The western coast, being the windward shore, should, 
 of course, be preferred. FIELD'S BAY is too exposed to southerly winds to 
 be recommended as a stopping place, unless the wind be northerly ; Nut- 
 land bay is a more convenient place to start from with a view of passing 
 the Narrows. 
 
 BRODERIP BAY lies to the northward of Nutland bay ; at the bottom or 
 northern part of it, are some good coves ; but the most convenient of them is 
 at the eastern extreme, called Dinner cove. It extends to the north fpr 
 about a furlong, and affords good anchorage in 10 fathoms, sufficiently well 
 sheltered and distant from the high land to be free from the mountain 
 squalls, or willi-waws. Round Dinner cove is ICY SOUND, a deep inlet, 
 with a glacier, of considerable extent, at the bottom, from which large 
 masses of ice are constantly falling, and drifting out, occupy the waters of 
 the inlet. The water is deep, and the anchorage not good, when there are 
 so many better places. DEAN HARBOUR is a considerable inlet, trending 
 in under the same glacier, which extends from the head of Smyth harbour, 
 to a considerable distance in the S. W. 
 
 SHAO NARROWS is the only navigable communication that exists between 
 the Barbara channel and strait ; it is on the western side of Cayetano island. 
 
 * In the winter of 1826-27, the Prince of Saxe Cobnrg, sealer, was wrecked in Fury harbour, 
 and the crew saved bv the Beagle's boats. Captain King.
 
 345 
 
 The width of the opening is at least one mile and three-quarters, but the 
 eastern portion is so filled with rocky islets and shoals, that the actual 
 breadth of the only navigable part, at the northern end, is about 100 yards, 
 and the widest part, at the south end, scarcely half a mile. It is formed, 
 on the west side, by a projecting point of high land, that gradually trends 
 round to the westward ; and, on the opposite side, by three islands, the 
 northernmost of which is Wet island, on the southernmost is Mount 
 Woodcock. Between Wet island, where the narrows on the north side 
 commence, and the western shore, the width is not more than 100 to 150 
 yards, and perhaps 300 yards long. Through this the tide sets as much as 
 7 miles an hour ; the sides of the rocks are steep-to, so that no accident 
 can happen to a ship in passing them, notwithstanding the want of room 
 for manoeuvring. At the south end of Wet island the stream of tide 
 divides one sets to the eastward, round Wet island, whilst the principal 
 runs through the Shag narrows. And in the same manner, a part of the 
 southern tide, which is the flood, after passing Wet island, rounds to the 
 S. E., round the eastern side of Mount Woodcock. All the space to the 
 eastward of Mount Woodcock is so strewed with islands and rocks, that 
 the passage must be difficult, if not dangerous. 
 
 To avoid the danger of being thrown out of the narrows, it is only 
 necessary to keep the western shore on board ; where there are no inden- 
 tations, the tide will carry a vessel along with safety. At the north end 
 of the narrows, on the west side, is a shelving point, on which there are 
 5 fathoms, here there is an eddy, but as soon as the vessel is once within 
 the narrows (within Wet island) the mid-channel may be kept. In 
 shooting this passage, it would be better to furl the sails and tow through, 
 for, if the wind be strong, the eddies and violent squalls would be very 
 inconvenient, from their baffling and laying the vessel upon her beam ends, 
 which frequntly happens, even though every sail be furled. It will be 
 necessary to have a couple of boats out, ready, either to tow the ship's head 
 round, or to prevent her being thrown, by the tide, into the channel to the 
 south of Wet island. 
 
 If anchorage be desirable after passing the narrows, there is none to be 
 recommended, until the coves between Smyth harbour and Cape Edge- 
 worth be reached, of these Dighton cove is preferable. The anchorage is 
 off the sandy beach, in 20 fathoms. Warrington cove also offers good 
 shelter and anchorage, but both are exposed to easterly winds. The tide 
 in the Shag narrows, at full and change, commences to set to the south- 
 ward at 12 o'clock. In the Barbara channel the flood tide was found 
 to set to seaward, or to the southward, as was also the case in Cockburn 
 channel. 
 
 SMYTH HARBOUR is about 4 miles deep, and from half to one mile wide, 
 surrounded by high land, and trending in a westerly direction. The water is 
 deep, excepting in Earle cove, on the north side, where vessels might lie, if 
 necessary, but it is a very wild place in bad weather. The hills at the head 
 are capped by glaciers, that communicate with those at the head of Icy 
 sound. It seems possible that all the mountains between this and Whale 
 sound are entirely covered with a coating of ice. 
 
 Half a mile S. E. from Cape Edgeworth is a shoal, so thickly covered 
 with kelp as to be easily seen in passing or approaching it ; there are not 
 more than two feet of water over its shoalest part. 
 
 To pass through the Barbara channel, from the north, it would be 
 advisable to stay at Port Gallant until a favourable opportunity offers ; for, 
 with a S. W. wind, it would neither be safe nor practicable to pass the 
 Shag narrows. 
 
 x x
 
 346 
 
 WINDS. The N. TV. wind prevails more than any other in the western 
 portion of the strait, in consequence of the reaches trending in that bearing. 
 It seems to be a general rule, hereabouts, that the wind either blows up or 
 down them. Between Cape Froward and the western entrance of the 
 strait, the wind is generally from N. W., although at sea, or in the Cock- 
 burn or Barbara channels, it may be in the south or south-western boards. 
 
 PORT FAMINE TO CAPE FROWARD. The river Sedger, which is fronted 
 by a bar that dries at low water, can be entered by boats at half-tide, and 
 is navigable for 3 or 4 miles. The water is fresh at half a mile from the 
 entrance, but, to ensure its being perfectly good, it w r ould be better to fill 
 the casks at low tide. The low land near the mouth, as well as the beach 
 of Port Famine, is covered with drift timber, of large size, which will be 
 found useful, and serviceable for repairing boats. Voces bay is to the 
 southward of the south point of Port Famine, where the river Sedger falls 
 into the sea. A ship may anchor in from 7 to 10 fathoms oft' the Second 
 river, but the shelter is not so good as in Port Famine. The Second river 
 has a shoal entrance, but extends for some distance up the valley. 
 
 Between this bay and CAPE SAN ISIDRO the water is too deep for 
 anchorage, even close to the beach. The cape is the termination of the 
 ridge, whose summit is MOUNT TARN, the most conspicuous mountain of 
 this part of the strait. It is 2,600 feet high, and is readily distinguished 
 from abreast of Elizabeth island, whence it appears to be the most pro- 
 jecting part of the continental shore. When viewed from the northward 
 its shape is peaked, and during the summer it has generally some patches 
 of snow a little below its sximmit ; but, in the winter months, its sides are 
 covered with snow for two-thirds down. From abreast, and to the south- 
 ward, of Port Famine, it has rather a saddle-shaped appearance, its summit 
 being a sharp ridge, extending very nearly for one mile N. W. and S. E., 
 with a precipitous descent on the N. E., and a steep slope on the S. W. 
 sides. There is a low but conspicuous rounded hillock, covered with trees, 
 at the extremity of Cape San Isidro ; and a rocky patch extends off it for 
 two cable's length, with a rock at its extremity that is awash at high 
 water : it is covered with kelp. 
 
 EAGLE BAY is about three-quarters of a mile deep, and its points one 
 mile apart, bearing N. E. and S. W. The anchorage is at the head, in from 
 20 to 1 2 fathoms ; a small reef extends for about a cable's length off the 
 S. W. point of the bay, on which is an islet. Eagle bay is not useful for 
 any but a small vessel that can be towed in, and then it will be necessary 
 to steady her by warps to the shore. The squalls, or willi-waws, at times, 
 are very violent. GUN BAY, the next to the westward, although small, 
 affords anchorage for a single vessel near the shore, at its S. W. part, in 
 from 8 to 9 fathoms. Two rivulets discharge themselves into it, from 
 which water is easily procured ; the bottom is a stiff clay, and good 
 holding ground. A round hill, of moderate elevation, and thickly wooded, 
 separates it from INDIAN BAY, the points of which are distant more than 
 one mile and a quarter. From the east point the shore runs due west, 
 curving round at the bottom towards an islet covered with trees, between 
 which and the shore there is only sufficient depth for a boat to pass. A 
 rock about 12 feet high lies to the S. E., on either side of which is an 
 anchorage, sufficiently sheltered from the prevailing winds, over a good 
 bottom, in from 7 to 9 fathoms ; the north side of the bay is slioal. A patch 
 of kelp extends off the S. E. point for two cable's length, but has 9 fathoms 
 over it at the centre. 
 
 BOUCHAGE BAY is small and the water very deep, except near the 
 bottom, where an anchorage may be obtained in 8 fathoms, clay. It is
 
 3*7 
 
 separated from BOURNAND BAY by Cape Remarquable, which is a pre- 
 cipitous, round-topped, bluff projection, wooded to the summit. At two 
 cable's length from the base no bottom was found with 20 fathoms of line ; 
 but, at the distance of 50 yards, the depth was 20 fathoms. Bournand 
 bay is more snug and convenient than Bouchage bay, it being sheltered 
 from the southerly winds by Nassau island. At the S. W. end of a stony 
 beach, at the bottom, is a rivulet of good water, off which there is good 
 anchorage in 8 fathoms, stiff mud. 
 
 BOUGAINVILLE BAY forms a basin, or wet dock, in which a vessel might 
 careen with perfect security. It is, from its small size, great depth of 
 water, and the height of the land, rather difficult of access, which renders 
 it almost always necessary to tow in. On entering the anchor should be 
 dropped in 12 fathoms, and the vessel steadied by warps to the trees, at 
 the sides and bottom of the cove. It is completely sheltered from all winds, 
 and an excellent place for a vessel to remain at, particularly if the object 
 be to procure wood, which grows here to a great size, and is both readily 
 cut down and easily embarked. A rivulet at the bottom affords a moderate 
 supply of water ; but, if more be required, the neighbouring bays will 
 afford an abundance. 
 
 In the passage between Nassau island and the main the least water is 
 7 fathoms, over a stiff clay bottom, gradually deepening on each side. But 
 the winds being baffling and the tides irregular, and rippling in many parts, 
 a vessel should not attempt it but from necessity. 
 
 ST. NICHOLAS BAY is not only of larger size than any of the bays to the 
 south of Cape San Isidro, but is the best anchorage that exists between 
 that cape and Cape Froward, as well from its being more easily entered 
 and left, as from the moderate depth of water, and extent of the anchoring 
 ground. Nearly in the centre is a small islet covered with trees, between 
 which and the shore is a passage with 9 fathoms water, stiff clay. The 
 shore is, however, fronted for its whole length, by a shoal bank, which 
 stretches off to the distance of a quarter of a mile from the shore ; the 
 edge is steep -to, and generally distinguished by the ripple, which, with a 
 moderate breeze, breaks at half-tide. In coming in, keep sail upon the 
 ship, in order to shoot into a good berth, on account of the high land of 
 Noddies peak becalming the sails, and to avoid the drift of the stream of 
 the river setting the ship over to the eastern side of the bay. In taking 
 up an anchorage much care is necessary to avoid touching the bank. Less 
 than 10 fathoms is not safe, but in that depth the security is perfect, and 
 the berth very easy to leave. In passing through the strait, this bay is 
 very useful to stop at, as well from the facility of entering and leaving it, 
 as for its proximity to Cape Froward. In the middle of the bay is De 
 Gennes river, which from its entrance being fronted by a shoal or bank, 
 and its being strewed with trees that drift out of the river during the 
 winter freshes, it is far from being an eligible place for procuring water. 
 
 From Glasscot point, the southern head of the bay, the coast extends in 
 nearly a straight line to Cape Froward, a distance of 7 miles, the land at 
 the back continuing mountainous and woody. A point, formed by a beach 
 of shingle, covered with trees to within 20 yards of the water's edge, and 
 distant nearly 3 miles from Cape Froward, is the only projection. Be- 
 tween this and the entrance of a rivulet, which waters the only valley that 
 exists in this space, an anchorage at a quarter of a mile from the shore, in 
 1 1 fathoms, might be occupied during a westerly wind ; but with the 
 winds more southerly it would be too much exposed to be safe. 
 
 CAPE FROWARD rises abruptly from the sea, at its base is a small rock. 
 The hill that rises immediately above the cape is called the Morro of Santa
 
 348 
 
 Agueda. Cape Froward is in latitude 53 53' 43" S., longitude 71 14' 31" 
 W. The ebb tide sets to the northward, and the flood to the south- 
 ward, but with very little strength. It is high water at full and change at 
 one p. m. 
 
 The north coast off CLARENCE ISLAND is indented by sounds stretching 
 deeply into the island, and extending from the entrance of Magdalen sound 
 to that of Barbara channel. The port of Beaubasin is sufficiently pointed 
 out by the small rocky islet called Periagua and Mt. Vernal ; the outer 
 part of the port decreases in width gradually to the entrance of the har- 
 bour, which is formed by two projecting points, a very short distance apart, 
 and is very shoal, the deepest water being only 2f fathoms. Inside, in the 
 basin, there are 5 fathoms. INMAN BAY, HAWKINS BAY, STAPLES INLET, 
 and SHOLL HARBOUR, are all deep inlets, surrounded by high precipitous 
 land. 
 
 LYELL SOUND lies to the westward of Greenough peninsula ; it is 9 miles 
 deep, and is separated at the bottom from Sholl harbour by a ridge of hills, 
 about one mile and a half wide. In the entrance are two conspicuous 
 islands one of which is very small. They are called Dos HENNANOS, and 
 bear from Cape Froward S. W. W., 5| miles. KEMPE HARBOUR lies 
 1^ mile within the entrance, on the west side : it is rather difficult of 
 access, but perfectly secure, and would hold six ships. Stokes Creek, on 
 the same side, more to the southward, also offers good anchorage ; but from 
 its being out of the way can be of no utility. 
 
 CASCADE HARBOUR and MAZZAREDO BAY are of less size, and therefore 
 more attainable, but of the same character with Lyell Sound ; viz, deep 
 water, surrounded by high land. On the head land that separates these 
 harbours from Lyell Sound, is a sugar-loaf hill, in latitude 53 57' 32" S., 
 longitude 71 24' 13'' W. HIDDEN HARBOUR has a narrow entrance, but 
 offers good shelter. 
 
 SAN PEDRO SOUND is the most extensive inlet in Clarence island. It 
 extends, in a southerly direction, for nearly 13 miles, and has three other 
 inlets branching off into the land, two to the westward, and one to the 
 eastward. There is a good, although a small, anchorage on its west side, 
 one mile and a half within the entrance, called MURRAY COVE ; and 
 another close to it, which is even more sheltered. FRESHWATER COVE is 
 a confined and indifferent place for a ship. 
 
 BELL BAY has a very convenient anchorage, BRADLEY COVE, on its 
 west side ; it will readily be distinguished by a small green round hillock 
 that forms its north head. The anchorage is in 17 fathoms, and the vessel 
 hauls in, by stern-fasts, or a kedge, into 9 fathoms, in perfect security. 
 POND BAY, to the northward, has good shelter ; but it is not of such easy 
 access, for it would be necessary to tow both into and out of it. MOUNT 
 POND, a peaked hill over the harbour, is a conspicuous mountain, and is 
 visible from the eastward as soon as it opens round Cape Froward. It has 
 two summits, one of which only is visible from the eastward. 
 
 ST. SIMON'S BAY lies between Cape Inglefield and Point Elvira, it is 
 studded with islands and rocks, and, at the bottom, has two communications 
 with the Barbara channel, separated from each other by Burgess island, 
 the easternmost of which, called Tom's narrows, is the most extensive ; but 
 this, from the irregularity and force of the tides, is not to be preferred to 
 the more direct one of the Shag narrows, on the western side of Cayetano 
 island, for there is no good anchorage in St. Michael's channel which leads 
 to it, and it is bounded by a steep and precipitous coast. The Gonsalez 
 narrows, on the west side of Burgess island, is not more than 30 yards 
 across ; and, from the force of the tide, and the fall of the rapid, would be
 
 349 
 
 dangerous even for a boat to pass. The only good anchorage in St. Simon's 
 bay is Millar's cove ; it is about 3 miles within Point Elvira, and has three 
 rocky islets off its entrance. A conspicuous mount forms the summit of 
 the eastern head. The anchorage is in 5 fathoms, a good bottom, and 
 entirely sheltered. "Wood and water are plentiful. 
 
 PORT LANGARA lies immediately round the east head of Millar's cove ; 
 it is rather more than a mile long, and two-thirds of a mile wide, and 
 trends in a W. N. "W. direction. The water is deep, excepting at the head, 
 and in a cove on the north shore, in either of which there is good anchorage. 
 At the former the depth is 8 fathoms, and in the cove 5 fathoms. On the 
 eastern side of the bay are SHIPTON and MELLERSH COVES. Both are 
 surrounded by high land ; and the water being very deep, neither of them 
 afford anchorage. Off the head that divides them, are the CASTRO 
 ISLANDS ; on the north side of the largest is a very convenient cove, with 
 a moderate depth of water. The CATELLANO ISLANDS consist of five 
 principal ones, they are situated in the centre of the bay, and have no 
 anchorage among them. 
 
 CAPE FROWARD TO JEROME CHANNEL. This coast, a 
 distance of 40 miles, is very slightly indented. The anchorages are of 
 easier access, and altogether more convenient than those of the southern 
 shore. SNUG BAY, situated 5 miles N. W. of Cape Froward, is a slight 
 indentation of the coast, at the embouchure of a small rivulet, the deposits 
 from which have thrown up a bank near the shore, on which anchorage 
 may be had in 8 and 9 fathoms. The best anchorage is half a mile to the 
 E. S. E. of the island, in 9 fathoms, black sand, the rivulet mouth bearing 
 N. N. W. three-quarters of a mile ; it is much exposed, being open from 
 W. S. "W. by South to S. E. It is a convenient stopping place in fine 
 weather. 
 
 WOODS BAY, situated under the lee of Cape Holland, is a convenient 
 stopping place for ships, but only small vessels should anchor inside the 
 cove. The anchorage is very good to the eastward of the river's mouth, at 
 half a mile from the shore, in 17 and 13 fathoms water. Small vessels may 
 enter the cove by luffing round the kelp patches, that extend off the south 
 point of the bay, on which there are 2^ fathoms. Entering Woods bay steer 
 for the gap, or low land behind the cape, and, as you near the south point, 
 keep midway between it and the river's mouth ; or, for a leading mark, 
 keep a hillock, or conspicuous clump of trees at the bottom of the bay, in 
 a line with a remarkable peak, one or two miles behind, bearing N.W.^ "W. 
 Anchor in 17 fathoms, immediately that you are in a line between the two 
 points ; small vessels may go further, into 12 fathoms. The west side of 
 the cove may be approached pretty near, and the depth will not be less 
 than 5 fathoms, excepting upon the two fathoms patch that stretches off 
 the east point, the extent of which is sufficiently shewn by the kelp ; but, 
 on the eastern side, the bank shoals suddenly, and must be avoided, for 
 there are 13 fathoms close to its edge, upon which there is not more than 
 two feet water. 
 
 CAPE HOLLAND is a bold, high, and, although slightly projecting, yet a 
 very conspicuous headland ; it is precipitous, and descends to the sea in 
 steps, plentifully covered with shrubs. It is 14 miles to the westward of 
 Cape Froward. Near CAPE COVENTRY, and in Andrews bay, anchorage 
 may be had near the shore, if the weather be fine. To the westward of 
 the former, at half a mile from the shore, there are 13 fathoms, 
 
 CORDES BAY lies four miles to the eastward of Cape Gallant, and may 
 be known by the small bright green islet, called Muscle island, that lies in 
 the entrance ; also by a three peaked mountain, about 2,000 feet high,
 
 350 
 
 standing detached from the surrounding hills, at the bottom of the bay. 
 The western entrance, which lies between the west point and the reef of 
 Muscle island, two-thirds of a mile wide; within it is a bay, one mile deep, 
 but much contracted by shoals covered with kelp, between them, however, 
 the anchorage is very good and well sheltered ; the bottom is of sand, and 
 the depth 5 and 7 fathoms. At the extremity of the bay is a large lagoon, 
 PORT SAN MIGUEL, trending in a N. E. direction for two miles, and two- 
 thirds of a mile across ; the entrance is both narrow and shoal, and not safe 
 for a vessel drawing more than 6 feet. Inside the lagoon the depth is from 
 3 to 13 fathoms. 
 
 FORTESCUE BAY is spacious, well sheltered, easy of access, and of 
 moderate depth. The best berth is to the S. E. of the small islet, outside 
 of Wigwam point, in 7 or 8 fathoms. Having the entrance of Port Gallant 
 open, small vessels may sail into the port, but the channel is rather narrow. 
 The banks on the western side, off Wigwam point, are distinguished by 
 the kelp. When within the shelter is perfect ; but Fortescue bay is quite 
 sufficiently sheltered, and much more convenient to leave. In this part of 
 the strait, as the channel becomes narrowed by the islands, the tides are 
 much felt. There are two good anchorages before reaching the entrance 
 of the Jerome channel, namely, ELIZABETH BAY and YORK ROADS, off 
 Batchelors river, the former has a sandy beach, and a rivulet emptying 
 itself into it; the best anchorage is said to be in 15 fathoms, Passage point 
 bearing E. S. E., distant half a mile, about three cables' length from the 
 river ; and to the N. W. of a bank on which there is much kelp. The 
 anchorage of York roads is said to be good and convenient, half a mile off 
 a woody point (just to the westward of the river) bearing N. 6 E., and 
 the mouth of the river N E., three-quarters of a mile, is a good berth ; 
 because there is plenty of room to weigh from, and space to drive, should 
 the anchor drag; the bottom is good, in 10 or 12 fathoms, but not in a 
 less depth. 
 
 The set and change of the tide here are very uncertain, on account of the 
 meeting of the Jerome channel tides with those of the strait, which occasions 
 many ripplings. Captain Fitzroy says, "That the tide along shore, near 
 Batchelor river, changed an hour later than in the offing. At Batchelor 
 bay, by the beach, during the first half or one-third of the tide that ran to 
 the S. E. the water fell ; and during the latter half or two-thirds it rose. 
 In the offing it ran very strong." 
 
 SECRETARY WREN'S ISLAND is a small rocky islet, rising abruptly on all 
 sides, and forming two summits. Near it are some rocks, and to the S. E. 
 is a group of small rocks ; and at a mile to the E. S. E. are two rocks above 
 water, called Canoas. CHARLES ISLANDS, besides of some smaller islets, 
 consists of three principal islands ; and, in the centre, there is a very good 
 port, having good anchorage within the islets, in 13 fathoms. It has an 
 outlet to the N. W. and one to the S. W., also a narrow point communicates 
 with the strait to the S. E. Opposite to Cape Gallant, on the eastern 
 island, near its N. W. end, is a conspicuous white rock, called Wallis's 
 mark. Next to the westward, in succession, are MONMOUTH and JAMES 
 ISLANDS ; then CORDOVA ISLET and RUPERT ISLAND ; and to the westward 
 of these the island of CARLOS III ; the last is separated from Ulloa peninsula 
 by St. David's sound, which is navigable throughout. 
 
 To the northward of Whale point, the eastern extremity of Carlos III. 
 island, is a cove, with an anchorage in 15 fathoms, close to the shore, on a 
 steep bank, but bad ground. From the north point of the cove to Rupert's 
 island is a rocky ledge, over which the tide sets with considerable strength. 
 To the westward of Cape Middleton is Muscle bay, about a mile wide,
 
 351 
 
 with unequal soundings, from 12 to 40 fathoms, stones. There is an 
 anchorage in from 15 to 30 fathoms, in Bonet bay, close to Carlos III. 
 island ; it lies under the S. E. side of some islands opposite to Batchelor 
 river. At a short mile to the eastward of Cape Crosstide, the N. W. end 
 of Carlos III. island, is TILLY BAY, but it has nothing to recommend it, 
 particularly when the much better anchorage off' Batchelor river is so close 
 at hand. 
 
 CIIOISEUL BAY and NASH HARBOUR, on the Fuegian coast, are not in 
 the least inviting ; the former is a large deceiving harbour-like bay, full 
 of islets and patches of kelp, under which, of course, there are rocks. 
 Between the islets the water is deep and unfit for anchorage. Nash 
 harbour is equally unserviceable. WHALE SOUND is a large inlet, trending 
 8 miles into the land, and terminating in a valley, bounded on each side by 
 high mountains. There is anchorage only in one place, the west side of 
 Lart harbour, and, although this harbour appears large, the anchorage is 
 small and close to the shore. ST. DAVID'S SOUND separates Carlos III. 
 island from Ulloa peninsula. At its north end the water is deep, but 
 where it begins to narrow there are soundings in it, on which anchorage 
 might be found, if there was a necessity. 
 
 JEROME CHANNEL is narrow, but throughout, free from danger ; the 
 western shore is high and steep, and covered with trees; the eastern shore 
 is lower and less wooded. In mid-channel, near its western end, are 
 two islets, not placed in the Spanish chart. On the west side of the 
 Jerome Channel are Wood and Seal Coves, that may be used with advan- 
 tage by small vessels. On the eastern shore the bights, Three Island bay 
 and Coronilla cove, appeared to be commodious. Arauz bay is open and 
 exposed to the N. W., where the Lago de la Botella joins the Jerome, 
 the latter winds round to the N. E. On its eastern side, behind the False 
 Corona isles, is Cutter cove, affording anchorage for a small vessel. Op- 
 posite is Nunez creek with deep water. Abreast of the Corona isles, one 
 of which, the Sugar-loaf, is about 200 feet high, is Sulivan cove, penetrating 
 for 5 miles into the land on the western side of the channel ; and, at a 
 league to the northward of the Sugar-loaf, is another opening to the 
 westward, on the north shore of which is Bending cove, which, with Cutter 
 cove, are the only stopping places between Cape Forty-Five and Child's bluff. 
 
 OTWAY WATER. Between Child's bluff and Point Stokes the Otway 
 water commences ; on the west shore it affords several commodious anchor- 
 ages. Off Point Villiers, at a quarter of a mile from the shore, there are 
 from 10 to 30 fathoms ; and this depth decreases in advancing more 
 northerly. There is anchorage all across the N. E. part of the water, in 
 from 5 to 20 fathoms, the bottom of sandy mud. INGLEFIELD and VIVIAN 
 ISLANDS, at the west end of the water, are low but thickly wooded. An 
 isthmus, 6 to 10 miles across, separates the Otway water from the strait 
 near Elizabeth island. From an elevated station, on the north side of 
 Fitzroy channel, this narrow neck appeared to be low, and much occupied 
 by lagoons. The south shore of Otway water is formed by high land, with 
 three deep openings. BRUNSWICK PENINSULA, a mass of high moun- 
 tainous land, is the most southern extremity of the continent. 
 
 In latitude 52 40' S., and longitude 71 5 W., is the east entrance of 
 FITZROY CHANNEL; it forms a communication between the Otway and 
 the Skyring waters, aud takes a winding course to the N. W. for 11 miles, 
 which is easily navigated. A strong tide running during the neaps, at the 
 rate of 5 or 6 miles an hour, in the entrance, and of 2 or 3 in other parts, 
 sets through it 6 hours each way. The rise and fall, however, were 
 scarcely distinguishable.
 
 352 
 
 SKYRING WATER is 10 leagues long from east to west ; its shores are low. 
 At the western extremity are two openings, which were supposed to com- 
 municate with some of the sounds of the western coast, but on a subsequent 
 examination of the termination of the Ancon sin Salida of Sarmiento, by 
 Captain Skyring, no communication was detected. 
 
 TIDES. The tide was found to set through the Jerome channel with 
 great regularity, six hours each way. The Spanish account however says, 
 " The current is always in the direction of the channel, but rarely sets to 
 the N. W., particularly in mid-channel and the western shore ; on the 
 opposite side, however, the tide sets six hours each way to the N. W. and 
 S. E." 
 
 The following observations were made by Captain Fitzroy for the time 
 of high water at full and change, at various parts of the Jerome and its in- 
 terior waters, viz : In the entrance of the Jerome, near Arauz bay, at 1 
 o'clock ; near Bending cove, at 3 o'clock ; Cutter cove, at 4 o'clock ; on the 
 south shore of Fanny bay, at Giddy island, as also at Martin point, at 5 
 o'clock ; at Inglefield island, at 4 o'clock, and at the same hour at the east- 
 ern entrance of Fitzroy Channel ; but at the western end of it, at 1 h. 
 15m. The variation of the compass was found to be at the point of islets, 
 23 58' ; Donkin cove, 23 40' ; Wigwam cove, 23 34' ; Inglefield island, 
 23 56' ; Point Marten, 23 58', the Mean of which will be 23 49'. 
 
 CROOKED REACH is that portion of the strait comprised between the 
 western extremity of Ulloa peninsula and the entrance of the Jerome 
 Channel. In the navigation of this part no one should willingly run the risk 
 of anchoring in any port or bay on its southern shore. Although there are 
 several deep inlets, enough to induce any navigator to trust to them, and, 
 probably, for small vessels, many sheltered nooks might be found, but they 
 have all very deep water, and when the wind blows strong down to Long 
 Reach, they are exposed to a heavy sea, and a furious wind. The anchorage 
 of Borja bay, within the Ortiz islands, is so much preferable that it alone is 
 to be recommended. 
 
 BORJA BAY is situated on the northern shore of Crooked Reach, two 
 miles to the eastward of Cape Quod ; its position is pointed out as well by 
 the islet off it west point, as by its situation with respect to El Morrion, 
 the helmet-shaped point previously called by the English ST. DAVID'S 
 HEAD. The entrance to the bay is to the eastward of the largest islet, and 
 presents no dangers ; all the islets and shores of the bay may be approached 
 to half a cable's length, even to the edge of the kelp. The only difficulty 
 that impedes getting into the bay arises from the baffling winds and violent 
 gusts that occasionally come off the mountains, and down the deep ravines 
 which form the surrounding coast ; and the utmost vigilance must be 
 exercised in beating in, under sail, to guard against their effects. The 
 anchorage is perfectly sheltered from the prevailing winds, the westerly 
 and south-westerly gales, and is open only to south-easterly winds, which 
 very rarely blow here, and still more rarely with violence ; and as the 
 holding ground is good (small stones and sand) and the depth of water 
 moderate, (14 to 16 fathoms) and any fetch of sea prevented by the nar- 
 rowness of the strait in this part, the greatest breadth being only 3 miles, 
 it may be pronounced a very good and secure harbour. The best plan is 
 to anchor with the bower, and steadied to the shore by a hawser or a kedge. 
 No surf or swell obstructs landing anywhere; good water and plenty of 
 wood are easy to be embarked ; the trees, a species of beech, are of a consi- 
 derable size. The shores are rocky, and the beach plentifully stocked, as 
 indeed are all parts of the strait to the eastward, with barberries and 
 wild celery.
 
 353 
 
 EL MORRION OR ST. DAVID'S HEAD is a lofty granitic rock, of which 
 the outer face is perpendicular and bare, and of a light grey colour, dis- 
 tinguishable from a considerable distance both from the east and the N. W., 
 and forming an excellent leading mark to assure the navigator of his position. 
 
 CAPE QUOD is a steep up cape, of a rocky greyish face, and shews like a 
 great building of a castle ; it points off with a race from the other 
 mountains, so much into the channel of the strait that it makes shutting in 
 against the south land, and makes like an elbow in the strait. Abreast of 
 Cape Quod the current sets to the eastward at one knot and a half an hour. 
 
 BARCELO BAY lies to the west of Cape Quod, seems to be large and incom- 
 modious, and strewed with small islets. OSOMO BAY has very deep water 
 all over, there being 40 fathoms within a cable's length of the beach, ex- 
 cepting on the west side, where there is a rocky ledge, with from 10 to 20 
 fathoms. Next to the westward is LANGARA BAY. It trends in for about 
 a mile to the N. E., and has 10 to 12 fathoms, stony bottom. It is more 
 sheltered than the two former bays. POSADAS BAY is most probably Wal- 
 lis's Lion cove'. Its western point is formed by a high, rounded, and pre- 
 cipitous headland, resembling, in Captain Wallis's idea, a lion's head ; and, 
 although Cordova could not discover the likeness, yet it is sufficiently 
 descriptive to point out the bay, were the anchorage worth occupying, 
 which it is not. Wallis describes it to have deep water close to the shore ; 
 his ship was anchored in 40 fathoms. 
 
 ARCE BAY has anchorage in from 6 to 17 fathoms, stones. It divides at 
 the bottom into two arms, each being half a mile deep. The outer points 
 bear from each other "W. N. W. and E. S. E., half a mile across. F LORES 
 BAY is very small and exposed, with from 6 to 20 fathoms, stones and 
 gravel ; at the bottom is a rivulafc of very good water. VILLENA COVE 
 has from 15 to 20 fathoms, and is very open and exposed. Then follows 
 GUIRIOR BAY, extending for more than a league to the north, the mouth 
 being two miles wide. Its west point is Cape Notch, which will serve to 
 recognise it. Near the entrance is an island and several rocks, and within 
 them, on the west side, are two coves, with from 15 to 30 fathoms, stones ; 
 beyond them is the port, which has a narrow entrance. A river falls from 
 a considerable height into it, and, by the rapidity of the current, has formed 
 a channel of ooze, in the direction of the entrance, in which there is good 
 anchorage in from 20 to 26 fathoms ; on either side of the channel the 
 bottom is stony. The port is too difficult to reach to make it an object of 
 any value. Should, however, a strong gale from South or S. W. oblige a 
 ship to run in, she should avoid passing too near the west side of the 
 narrow, for a reef extends off it for nearly a cable's length. There is also 
 a bank outside the narrow, but it is pointed out by kelp. 
 
 LONG REACH. SNOWY SOUND, a deep inlet, not worth any person's 
 while to enter, excepting for anchorage in a cove at about a mile, and in 
 another at two miles, within its western head. It extends in for 10 miles, 
 and terminates in two inlets, surrounded by high perpendicular black rocks. 
 
 SWALLOW HARBOUR is one mile and a quarter to the westward of Snowy 
 sound ; its anchorage is under the east side of the island, which separates 
 the harbour from Condesa bay, which forms its west side. This harbour 
 has at its mouth three islands and a rock, besides being strewed with kelp 
 which serves to point out the dangers in entering. "Within it is very well 
 sheltered from all winds ; the depth is from 40 to 16 fathoms, stones, and 
 in some parts ooze. This bay is to the south of Cape Notch ; and, to 
 recognize it, there is a cascade falling down the centre of a mountain at the 
 bottom of the port, to the westward of which are two higher moun- 
 tains, the summit of the eastern being peaked, and the western one rounded. 
 
 Y Y
 
 354 
 
 The bay to the westward of the island is CONDESA BAY ; it is full of islets 
 and rocks, and the channel behind the island, communicating with Swallow 
 bay, is very narrow. 
 
 At about a cable's length off the west point of the entrance of Swallow 
 harbour Captain Fitzroy saw a rock just awash. This danger should be 
 carefully avoided. 
 
 STEWART'S BAY is less than a league from Swallow bay ; it is by no 
 means to be recommended as an anchorage, for though it is sufficiently 
 sheltered from wind and sea, yet the rocks, in different parts of it, render 
 the passage in or out very hazardous ; every danger in it is pointed out by 
 rock weed, but it is so much straitened as to require the utmost vigilance. 
 Even the best channel is narrow and tortuous, the depth from 12 to 16 
 fathoms, stones. At the bottom is an islet, forming two narrow channels, 
 leading into a port or basin, two cable's length wide ; the eastern channel 
 is tfie deeper, and has 15 to 20 fathoms. Inside the basin, on the east 
 side, the depth is 6 and 9 fathoms, mud. A reef extends for half a cable's 
 length to the westward of the south end of the islet ; it would be difficult 
 and dangerous to enter this small basin. 
 
 Then follows a deep and extensive channel of which nothing is known, 
 excepting that it extends to the south for 5 or 6 miles, and, perhaps, is 
 very similar in its termination to Snowy sound, it is Sarmiento's SNOWY 
 CHANNEL. To the westward of Snowy channel are several inlets, affording, 
 apparently, good shelter, but those examined were found to have very 
 deep water. 
 
 ABRA OF SARMIENTO is a great bay, which trends into the land in a 
 W. S. W. direction for more than two leagues, and has an island at its 
 mouth. Within it appeared to take, first, a South, then a S. W. course, 
 and afterwards to trend round a projecting, low, hummocky point of the 
 east shore, and wind under the base of a high precipitous ridge on the 
 opposite, or west shore, towards the S. E., beyond which its course could 
 not be observed. 
 
 Opposite to Snowy channel is CAPE NOTCH, a projecting point of grey 
 coloured rock, about 650 feet high, having a deep cleft in its summit ; it is 
 a conspicuous headland, and cannot be mistaken. The next place, to the 
 westward, that can be recommended for an anchorage is Playa Parda cove, 
 which is well sheltered, and, for chain cables, has a good bottom, being of 
 sandy mud, strewed with stones ; it is half a mile wide at the entrance, 
 and about a quarter deep. Round the west side of Middle point is a 
 channel a quarter of a mile long, and 150 yards wide, with a very excellent 
 little harbour for a small vessel, of about a quarter of a mile in diameter. 
 
 Playa Parda cove is easily known by SHELTER ISLAND, that fronts the 
 inlet of Playa Parda ; the inlet is one mile and a half long, and half a mile 
 broad, but with very deep water all over. By luffing round the island a 
 ship will fetch the anchorage in the cove ; and, although sail should not be 
 reduced too soon, yet the squalls, if the weather be bad, blow down the 
 inlet of Playa Parda with great violence. Anchor a little within, and half- 
 way between the points of entrance, at about one cable and a half from the 
 Middle point, in 5^ and 6 fathoms. 
 
 Of GLACIER BAY, remarkable for a glacier at the bottom, and of another 
 bay to the eastward of it, nothing is known ; the former may possess good 
 shelter and perhaps anchorage, but the latter is too full of islands to be 
 recommended. Between Glacier bay and Playa Parda the shore is bold 
 but straight, excepting a small cove about two miles from Playa Parda, 
 which seemed likely to afford shelter for small vessels. Off the west inner 
 point is a reef, but within it there seemed to be a basin half a mile deep.
 
 355 
 
 MARIAN'S COVE is a convenient anchorage, lying one mile and a half to 
 the west of Playa Parda ; at the entrance it is about one-third of a mile 
 wide, and more than half a mile deep. In entering the west side should 
 be kept aboard ; the anchorage is 22 fathoms, good holding ground ; but less 
 water may be obtained, if required, there being 8 fathoms within 60 yards 
 of the beach, at the bottom of the bay. From Cape 1'Etoile to the 
 entrance of the Gulf of Xaultegua, the shore is straight and precipitous, 
 and the hills are barren and rocky. 
 
 On the opposite shore there are a few inlets, but the most useful one for 
 the navigator is HALF PORT BAY, rather more than a league to the east of 
 Cape Monday. It is immediately round the south side of a deep inlet, and 
 is an excellent stopping place ; the anchorage is within two-thirds of a cable's 
 length of the west point, in 16 fathoms, muddy bottom. On the S. W. 
 side of the anchorage the land is high and thickly wooded, from its summit 
 to the water's edge ; that on the eastern side is lower, the vegetation more 
 scanty, and the trees crooked and stunted, and pressed down to the N. E. 
 by the prevailing winds. S. W. by W. from the anchorage is a remarkable 
 cleft in the summit of the highland, from which a narrow stripe, cleared of 
 jungle, descends to the water's edge ; the anchorage is well sheltered from 
 prevailing breezes, and the holding ground is good : water and fuel are 
 abundant. 
 
 There is anchorage for small vessels under Cape Monday, with the ex- 
 ception of a shoal in the midway of the entrance, on which there are 4 
 fathoms ; it seems to offer good shelter from the prevailing winds. On the 
 west side of Cape Monday is MEDAL BAY, having an island in the entrance 
 which forms two channels, the easternmost of which is only deep enough 
 for boats, but the western is 25 fathoms wide ; it is strewed half-way across 
 with kelp, but between the kelp and the island is a good and clear 
 passage with 6 fathoms, sandy bottom. In the kelp there is not less than 
 4 fathoms, and inside it the depth is 9, 8, and 7 fathoms, sandy bottom. 
 To enter this port there are no dangers that are not visible, and those are 
 easily avoided; they consist only of the islet in its entrance, and some 
 patches of kelp, over which, however, there is plenty of water. 
 
 The GULF OF XAULTEGUA is a deep opening, trending into the land in 
 an easterly direction for 28 miles, and approaching within two miles of some 
 of the inlets on the N. W. side of Indian sound ; the entrance is about 4 
 miles across, but afterwards expands to a width of nearly 15 miles. At 
 the entrance is St. Ann's island, between which and the south point is a 
 navigable channel, half a mile wide. St. Ann's island is about two miles 
 long, and extends in a W. N. W. and E. S. E. direction ; off its N. "W". end 
 is an islet, and there is another close to its S. W. extremity ; the land 
 forming the north side of the strait, between the Gulf of Xaultegua and the 
 Jerome channel, is called Croker peninsula. 
 
 TIDES. Little has been said of the tides in this part of the strait, and, 
 indeed, as to their rise and fall, they are really of no importance, being 
 little more than 4 feet. It is high water, at full and change, in all parts 
 within a few minutes of noon. The current' sets constantly to the eastward 
 with more or less strength. 
 
 SEA REACH. A league to the westward of Cape Monday is an inlet, 
 named PUERTO ANGOSTO ; upon its west head is a conspicuous round mount, 
 and to the north, between the mount and a projecting point, is a confined 
 but very snug and commodious cove for a small vessel, in 17 fathoms, at a 
 quarter of a mile within the head. Of UPRIGHT BAY little is known ; 
 Captain Stokes says, " We anchored at a cable's length off a small patch 
 of light coloured shingle beach, situated on the west side of the bay, in 22
 
 356 
 
 fathoms, sandy bottom. The anchorage, though affording excellent shelter 
 from the prevailing winds, is bad with a southerly one, for the steepness of 
 the bottom requiring a vessel to anchdr close to the shore, sufficient scope 
 is not left for veering cable. 
 
 CAPE UPRIGHT bears due south 5 miles from Cape Providence ; it has 
 a rocky islet a quarter of a mile off its east extremity, surrounded by kelp, 
 which also extends for some distance from the cape towards the islet, at 
 the end of which there are 7 fathoms. CAPE PROVIDENCE is a rugged 
 rocky mountain, higher than the adjacent coast ; it is deeply cleft at the 
 top, and, when bearing about north, the western portion of its summit 
 appears arched, the eastern lower and peaked. When the cape bears 
 E. by S., distant about one league and a half, a little round rocky islet 
 will be seen open of it, about one quarter of a point of the compass more 
 southerly. There are some anchorages on the right, to the N. E. of Cape 
 Providence, but they are too much out of the way, as well as very open 
 and exposed to southerly winds to be of use, or to offer any security to 
 vessels bound through the strait. 
 
 The distance from Cape Providence to CAPE TAMAR is 9^ miles ; in this 
 space the land arches inwards, and forms a bay about a league and a half 
 deep. On the western side of Cape Providence are several islands, of which 
 two are conspicuous; they are round and of a good height, and well 
 wooded, at a distance their form is conical, the eastern being the lowest. 
 Between them is a passage to two good anchorages, which Lieut. Skyring, 
 who examined them, considered even more sheltered than Tamar harbour. 
 
 Four miles to the eastward of Cape Tamar is ROUND ISLAND, to the 
 N. TV. of which is a well sheltered anchorage, but with deep water. In 
 standing in pass midway between Round island and an island to the west- 
 ward, which lies close to the shore, and haul round the latter to the mouth 
 of a cove, in the entrance of which, near the south shore, there are 23 
 fathoms, sand. The shore to the North and N. E. of Round island is very 
 rocky. On the east side of the promontory of Cape Tamar is the useful 
 and excellent anchorage of TAMAR HARBOUR ; it is scarcely two miles 
 wide, and rather more than half a mile deep. Its entrance is not exactly 
 free from danger, but with attention to the following directions, none need 
 be apprehended. There is a sunken rock between a group of rocky islets, 
 one-third over on the western ride, and a patch of kelp, one-third towards 
 the eastern side of the bay. With a westerly wind it would be advisable 
 to give the outer rock a berth of two cable's length to avoid this danger, 
 on which there are only 9 feet of water, and upon which the Beagle struck. 
 An excellent leading mark for this shoal is a whitened portion of a bare 
 rock, looking like a tombstone, about one-third of the way up the green 
 side of the mountainous land that forms the coast of the bay. This stone 
 bears N. 76 W. (by compass) from the rocks to be rounded on entering 
 the anchorage. 
 
 The least water found among the kelp, on the east side of the channel, 
 was 4| fathoms, and near and within the edge towards the rocky islets 
 there are 7 fathoms ; so that with the lead in hand, and a look-out for kelp, 
 which should not unnecessarily be entered, there is no real danger to be 
 apprehended, the Beagle anchored at about one-third of a mile from the 
 back of the bay. High water, at full and change, at 3 h. 5 m., and the 
 perpendicular rise and fall is 5 feet. The flood tide, on this part of the 
 northern shore of the strait, sets to the eastward, and rarely exceeds half a 
 mile an hour. 
 
 TAMAR ISLAND lies to the westward of Cape Tamar; it is high, and 
 S3parated from the land of the cape by a deep channel, from half to one
 
 357 
 
 mile wide. Half a mile off its S. TV. end is a rock. Between Capes Tamar 
 and Phillip, a space of 4 leagues, there is a deep bight, with two openings, 
 the easternmost, in which are GLACIER and ICY SOUNDS, extends to the 
 N. E. for 10 miles from the mouth, and the westernmost is the commence- 
 ment of Smyth's channel. The rocks, called the Stragglers, extend to a 
 considerable distance to the S. TV., as far as three miles within the line of 
 bearing between Cape Philip and Tamar island. 
 
 SHOLLS BAY is situated under the lee (the N. E.) of Cape Phillip ; in it 
 is excellent anchorage, in 15 fathoms. It is valuable for vessels working 
 through the strait to the westward, inasmuch as, from the discontinuous 
 nature of the northern shore (which here is formed into deep bays) this 
 place will be much more easily recognized than the anchorages on the 
 opposite coast ; besides the winds hang here, in general somewhat to the 
 northward of west, hence a better starting place for the westward is 
 obtained. Here water and fuel are easily procured. 
 
 The coast on the south side, between Cape Upright and Valentine 
 harbour, is little known ; there are several deep bights and spacious bays, 
 which may contain anchorage, but, in general, they are not found in the 
 large harbours, which are mostly deep, precipitous chasms or ravines in 
 the rock. The smaller coves, or where the land shelves down to the sea, 
 are more likely to afford anchorages. VALENTINE HARBOUR seems to be 
 commodious and secure, and of easy approach. On hauling round the 
 island there are some islets half a mile off which must be avoided, but 
 otherwise there seems to be no dangers ; the anchorage, as a stopping place, 
 is in from 20 to 26 fathoms, sand, at nearly a quarter of a mile from either 
 shore: a more sheltered situation may be obtained to the S. TV. 
 
 CAPE CUEVAS, the extremity of an island that is close to the shore, is in 
 latitude 52 53' 19" S., and longitude 74 17' 30" TV. Between it and 
 Cape Valentine the coast forms a bay with islands in it. To the westward, 
 also, of the cape, the coast is broken, and forms some sinuosities. One 
 league N. TV. ^ TV. from Cape Cuevas, is the east part of TRUXILLO BAY 
 which is If miles wide, in the direction of N. TV. and S. E., and half a 
 mile deep. At the bottom there is a port with an entrance half a mile 
 across, bearing nearly North and South. It is a well sheltered port, trend- 
 ing TV. S. TV. for one mile and a quarter, with two small basins at the 
 bottom ; the depth is very great, but close to the west shore there are 8, 
 10 to 13 fathoms, on sand and coral. Near the mouth the depth is great, 
 and generally of stones. There are several banks buoyed by sea weed, 
 but in none was there less than 7 fathoms of water. There is plenty of 
 wood and water in Truxillo bay, but nobody ought to visit it in preference 
 to TUESDAY BAY, or rather the more convenient anchorage of TUESDAY 
 COVE, situated three-quarters of a mile south of Cape Cortado ; the an- 
 chorage is in 12 to 14 fathoms. Tuesday bay is larger, and, therefore, more 
 exposed to the squalls, but for a ship, perhaps, might be more convenient. 
 
 On the north shore of the strait, opposite to Cape Cortado, is CAPE 
 PARKER, a remarkable projection with three hummocks on the summit of 
 the high land which rises over it. To the eastward the coast trends deeply 
 in to the north, forming a bay, the eastern head of which is Cape Phillip, 
 distant 9 miles. There appeared to be several islands in the bay, and at 
 the bottom a narrow opening, perhaps a channel, leading to the north. On 
 the west side of the bay the coast is indented, and affords some anchorages, 
 but the approach is not clear. The first bay, however, to the eastward of 
 the S. E. trend of the cape seems to afford a good stopping place ; but it is 
 fronted by a considerable shoal, with two rocky islets ; the depth is from 7 
 to 22 fathoms.
 
 358 
 
 To the westward of Cape Parker commences a range of islands, rocks, 
 and shoals, fronting a broken coast that should never be be approached but 
 for the purpose of discovery, or seal-fishery. The easternmost island is 
 WESTMINSTER HALL, a high rocky island ; and there are two or three 
 conspicuous points such as the Cupola and Observation Mount, that might 
 he noticed. SIR JOHN NARBOROUGH'S ISLANDS consist of 8 or 10 principal 
 islands, and an innumerable number of smaller ones ; amongst them are 
 several anchorages, but none to be recommended, especially when on the 
 south coast there are two or three much better, safer, and of easier access. 
 It is a dangerous coast, as well from the immense number of rocks, upon 
 which the sea breaches very high, as from the tides, which near the edge 
 of the line of shoals set frequently in amongst them. 
 
 On the south shore of the strait is Cape Cortado, and a league to the 
 westward is SKYRING HARBOUR ; its entrance is one mile and a quarter 
 wide, narrowing to half a mile, trending to the S. W. by "W. for one mile 
 and a half, and then terminates in a cove extending half a mile to the S. E. 
 with 10 fathoms in it. There are some islands in it, and anchorage might 
 be obtained in 27 fathoms. At three miles and a half from the west point 
 of Skyring harbour, is the east head of the HARBOUR OF MERCY, one of 
 the best anchorages of the western part of the strait, and being only four 
 miles within Cape Pillar, is very conveniently placed for a ship to anchor at, 
 to await a favourable opportunity for leaving the strait ; there is no danger 
 in entering, the depth is moderate, 12 to 14 fathoms, and the holding 
 ground excellent, being a black clay. A ship may select her position, but 
 the one off the first bight round the point being equally well sheltered, and 
 much more convenient for many purposes, is the best berth. 
 
 Three miles to the westward of the largest Observation islet, is CAPE 
 PILLAR, upon which landing was obtained on the 25th February, 1 827, but 
 not without considerable difficulty, owing to the great swell that then, and 
 indeed always, prevails near it. The extremity of the cape is in latitude 
 52 42' 53' S., and longitude 74 39' 31" W. ; and CAPE VICTORY in lat- 
 itude 52 16' 10" S., and longitude 74 50' 55" W. These points form the 
 western entrance of the strait. 
 
 THE EVANGELISTS, OR THE ISLES OP DIRECTION, are a group of rocky 
 islets, consisting of four principal ones, and some detached rocks and 
 breakers. The islands are rugged and barren, having anchorage round 
 them, if necessary ; the largest and highest may be seen in tolerably clear 
 weather, from a brig's deck, at the distance of 7 or 8 leagues. The 
 southernmost, from its shape called the Sugar-loaf, is in latitude 52 14' 18" 
 S., and longitude 75 2' 56 ' W. From the Sugar-loaf, the extremity of 
 Cape Pillar, it bears N. W. f N., 23^ miles, and from Cape Victory S. 
 W. S., 11 miles. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR PASSING THROUGH THE STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS FROM 
 THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC. In the eastern entrance, the winds will 
 frequently favour a ship's arrival off the First Narrow, where, if she selects 
 a good anchorage on the bank which bounds the northern side of the chan- 
 nel, she may await an opportunity of passing through the FIRST NARROW, 
 and of reaching GREGORY BAY ; where also a delay may safely be made 
 for the purpose of passing the SECOND NARROW, and arriving at the 
 neighbourhood of CAPE NEGRO, at which places the difficulties and dangers 
 of the eastern entrance cease. The dangers being sufficiently described in 
 the preceding pages, nothing need be repeated here, and indeed much must 
 be left to the judgment and discretion of the navigator. 
 
 The TIDES answer best for vessels entering the strait at the period of full 
 and change of the moon, since there are two westerly tides in the day. In
 
 359 
 
 the winter season, if the morning tide be not sufficient to carry a vessel 
 through the First Narrow, she may return to Possession bay, select an an- 
 chorage, and be secured again before night ; or, in the summer, if she has 
 passed the Narrow, and enabled to anchor for the tide, there will be sufficient 
 daylight for her to proceed with the following tide to Gregory bay, or at 
 least to a safe anchorage, off the peaked hillocks on the north shore. 
 Captain King says, " 1 have twice attempted to pass the First Narrow, and 
 been obliged to return to the anchorage in Possession bay, and twice I have 
 passed through it, against a strong breeze blowing directly through, by aid 
 of the tide, which runs, in the narrower parts, at the rate of 10 or 12 miles 
 an hour." When the tide and wind are opposed to each other the sea is 
 very deep and heavy, and breaks high over the decks ; it is therefore 
 advisable to close reef, or lower the topsails on the cap, and drift through, 
 for the tide, if at the springs, will generally be sufficient to carry a ship to 
 an anchorage, although not always to one that it would be safe to pass the 
 night at. On this account it would be prudent to return, for, although the 
 holding ground is exceedingly good, yet to part in the night, or drift 
 towards or through the narrow, could scarcely happen without accident. 
 
 In leaving the anchorage in Gregory bay, attention must be paid to the 
 tide, which continues to run to the eastward, in the SECOND NARROW, 
 three hours after it has commenced to set to the S. W. at the anchorage. 
 With a leading wind through the Second Narrow a ship will easily reach an 
 anchorage off Lared's bay ; but, if the tide fails upon emerging from, it, she 
 should seek for a berth in the bay to the north of Elizabeth island, as near 
 to the island as possible, but to the westward of its N. E. end, to be out 
 of the influence of the tide. The depth of water, however, will be the 
 best guide. 
 
 The only advice that seems wanting to improve the directions of the 
 coast from this to PORT FAMINE is with a south-westerly wind to keep 
 close to the weather shore, in order to benefit by the flaws down the 
 valleys ; but this must be done with caution, in consequence of the squalls 
 off the high land, the violence of which, to a person unaccustomed to them, 
 cannot be well imagined. The anchorages between Port Famine and Cape 
 Froward are sufficiently described (in pages 346 to 349) of which the only 
 convenient one for a ship is St. Nicholas bay, and to which, if defeated in 
 passing round the cape, a ship had better return, for it is easy to reach as 
 well as to leave, and extremely convenient to stop at to await an oppor- 
 tunity of proceeding. 
 
 From CAPE FROWARD to the westward, unless favoured by a fair wind, 
 it is necessary to persevere and take advantage of every opportunity of 
 advancing step by step. There are several anchorages that a ship may 
 take up, already described between pages 349 and 351. To the westward, 
 in CROOKED REACH ; the anchorages are not so good, and, excepting Borja 
 bay, none seem to offer much convenience. BORJA BAY, however, is well 
 calculated to supply the deficiency, although for a square-rigged vessel 
 there must be some difficulty in reaching it. LONG REACH is both long 
 and narrow, and ill supplied with anchorages for a ship; such as they are, 
 Swallow harbour, Playa Parda, Marian's cove, and Half Port bay, seem 
 to be the best. In SEA REACH there is a heavy rolling swell, with a short 
 and deep sea, which render it very difficult to beat to windward. Tamar 
 harbour, Valentine harbour, Tuesday cove, and the Harbour of Mercy, are 
 the best anchorages ;* and the latter is particularly convenient to occupy to 
 
 For a description of them look to page 35G, and the two following pages.
 
 / >^ 
 
 360 
 
 await an opportunity of sailing out of the strait. In the entrancG-ihe sea 
 runs very heavy and irregularly during and after a gale, so that a ship 
 should not leave her anchorage, in the Harbour of Mercy, without a fair or 
 leading wind, to get her quickly through it. 
 
 For small vessels, particularly if they be fore-and-aft rigged, many, if 
 not all the local difficulties vanish ; and inlets which a ship dare not or 
 cannot approach, may be entered with safety, and anchorage easily obtained 
 by them. A large ship will perhaps be better off, in entering and leaving 
 the strait, where there is open space and frequently a heavy sea ; but, for 
 the navigation of the strait, a small vessel has considerably the advantage. 
 She has also the opportunity of passing through the Cockburn channel, 
 should the wind be north-westerly, which will very much reduce the length 
 of the passage into the Pacific. 
 
 One very great advantage to be derived from the passage through the 
 strait is the opportunity of obtaining as much wood and water as can be 
 required, without the least difficulty ; another great advantage is, that by 
 hauling the seine during the summer months, from January to May, at the 
 mouth of the river or along the beaches in Port Famine, at the first quarter 
 flood, a plentiful supply of fish may be obtained. Excellent fish are also 
 caught at the anchorage, with the hook and line, at all seasons, early in 
 the morning or late in the evening. Fish may also be obtained with the 
 seine at any other place where there are rivers. Freshwater bay and Port 
 Gallant are equally productive. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR PASSING THROUGH THE STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS, 
 FROM THE PACIFIC TO THE ATLANTIC. The advantage which a ship will 
 derive from passing through the strait from the Pacific to the Atlantic, for 
 there must be some great one to induce the seaman to entangle his ship 
 with the land, when fair winds and an open sea are before him, is very 
 great. After passing through the strait, the prevailing winds being 
 westerly, and more frequently from the northward than from the south- 
 ward of west, they are fair for his running up the coast ; or, if not, the 
 ship is not liable to receive much injury from the sea, which is compara- 
 tively smooth ; whereas, to a ship passing round the Horn, if the w T ind be 
 N. W. she must go to the eastward of the Falkland islands, and be exposed 
 to strong gales and a heavy beam sea, and hug the wind to make her 
 northing. To a small vessel the advantage is incalculable, for, besides 
 filling her hold with wood and water, she is enabled to escape the severe 
 weather that so constantly reigns in the higher latitudes of the South 
 Atlantic Ocean. 
 
 Coming from the northward it will be advisable to keep an offing until 
 the western entrance of the strait is well under the lee, to avoid being 
 thrown upon the coast to the northward of CAPE VICTORY, which is rugged 
 and inhospitable, and, forming as it were a breakwater to the deep rolling 
 swell of the ocean, is for some miles off fringed by a cross hollow sea, 
 almost amounting to a rippling. 
 
 The land of Cape Victory is high and rugged, and much broken ; and, 
 if the weather be not very thick, will be seen long before the Evangelists, 
 which are not visible above the horizon, from a ship's deck, for more than 
 4 or 5 leagues. Pass to the southward of them and steer for Cape Pillar, 
 which makes like a high island. In calm weather do not pass too near to 
 the cape, for the current sometimes sets out, and round the cape to the 
 southward ; but with a strong wind get under the lee of it as soon as you 
 please, and steer along the shore. In the night it will be advisable to keep 
 close to the land of the south shore, and, if a patent log be used, your 
 distance will be correctly known. The course along shore, by compass, is
 
 X 
 
 E. S., and, if the weather be thick, by keeping sight of the south shore 
 there will be no difficulty in proceeding with safety. 
 
 In the summer season there is no occasion to anchor anywhere, unless 
 the weather be very tempestuous, for the nights are short and hardly dark 
 enough to require it, unless as a precautionary measure, or for the purpose 
 of procuring wood and water, the best place for which is Port Famine, 
 where the beaches are strewed with abundance of logs of well seasoned 
 wood, which is very superior to the green wood that must otherwise be used. 
 
 There is, generally, a current setting to the eastward, which is more or 
 less felt, according to circumstances. The direction and strength of the 
 currents are caused by the duration of the gales. 
 
 The chart will be a sufficient guide for vessels bound through from the 
 westward, as far as Laredo bay, after which a few directions will be 
 necessary. The land here should be kept close on board, to avoid the reef 
 off the S. TV. end of SAN"TA MAGDALENA. Being abreast of it, bear away, 
 keeping the N. E. extremity of Elizabeth island on the starboard bow, 
 until you see SANTA MARTHA "in one with, or a little to the southward of, 
 the Second Narrow (CAPE ST. VINCENT) which is the leading mark for the 
 fair channel, until you pass the spit of shoal soundings, which extends across 
 to Santa Magdalena. There are also shoal soundings towards the S. W. 
 end of Elizabeth island ; at half a mile off we had 5 fathoms, Cape St. 
 Vincent being then the breadth of Santa Martha, open to the northward of 
 that island. Keeping the cape just in sight to the northward of Santa 
 Martha, steer on and pass round the low N. E. extremity of Elizabeth 
 island, off which are several tide eddies. The tide here sets across the 
 channel. 
 
 Now steer for the SECOND NARROW, keeping Cape Gregory, which will 
 be just discernible as the low projecting extreme of the north side of the 
 Second Narrow, on the starboard bow, until you are three miles past Santa 
 Martha ; the course may then be directed for the cape, opening it gradually 
 on the larboard bow, as you approach it, to avoid the shoal that extends 
 off it. 
 
 If you anchor in GREGORY BAY, which is advisable, in order to have the 
 whole of the tide for running through the First Narrow, haul up and keep 
 at a mile and a half from the shore, when the north extremity of the sandy 
 land of the cape is in a line with the west extreme of the high table land, 
 you will be near the anchorage, then shorten sail, and, when the green 
 slope begins to open, you will have 14 fathoms ; you may then anchor, or 
 keep" away to the N. E., and choose a convenient depth, taking care not to 
 approach the shore so as to bring Cape Gregory to the southward of S. by 
 W. \ W. (by compass.) The best berth is with the cape bearing S. S. W. 
 
 Hence to the FIRST NARROW the course by compass is due N. E. by E. 
 The land at the entrance being low, will not at first be perceived, but on 
 steering on you will first see some hummocky land, making like islands. 
 These are hills on the eastern or Fuegian side of the Narrow. Soon after- 
 wards a flat, low sand-hill will be seen to the northward, and this is at the 
 S. W. extremity of POINT BARRANCA. On approaching the Narrow at 4 
 miles off, keep a cliffy head 4 or 5 miles within the east side of the Narrow, 
 open of the trend of Point Barranca, by which you will avoid the shoal that 
 extends off the latter point ; you should not go into less depth than 6 fathoms. 
 At most times of the tide there are long lines and patches of strong ripplings, 
 through which you must pass. The shoal is easily distinguished by the kelp. 
 
 When the channel through the narrows bears by compass N. by E. | E. 
 steer through it, and that, or a N. N. E. course, will carry you through. 
 On each side the bank extends off for some distance ; but by keeping in 
 
 z z
 
 362 
 
 mid-channel there is no danger until the cliffy coast be passed, when reefs 
 extend off either shore for some distance, particularly off Cape Orange. 
 The N. N. E. course must be kept until the peak of Cape Orange bears 
 S., and the northern Direction hill W. S. W. or W. by 8. ^ S. by compass ; 
 then steer E. N. E. for Cape Possession, taking care not to approach too 
 near to the bank off Cape Orange, or the one on the north side of Posses- 
 sion bay. 
 
 For a small vessel the passage through the strait from west to east is not 
 only easy but to be strongly recommended as the best and safest route. 
 Indeed, it is thought that the passage would be quite as expeditious, and, 
 perhaps, much safer to enter the Gulf of Trinidad, and pass down the Con- 
 cepcion strait, the Sarmiento, or St. Estevan channels, and Smyth's chan- 
 nel, and enter the strait at Cape Tamar In these channels northerly winds 
 prevail, and there is no want of convenient and well sheltered anchorages 
 for the night, many of which have already been mentioned, and multitudes 
 of others, and perhaps much better ones, might be found. 
 
 TIERRA DEL FUEGO. 
 
 CAPE PILLAR TO CHRISTMAS SOUND. In making the land and 
 approaching the strait a ship should keep well to the northward of Cape 
 Pillar, and should, indeed, close the Evangelists, unless the wind has 
 southing, because there is a strong current which sets across the entrance 
 of the strait, directly towards the dangerous cluster of rocks, called the 
 Apostles and Judges. It follows the trend of the coast, and would set a 
 ship many miles to the southward of Cape Pillar, if she stood in for it 
 without making proper allowance. It runs from one to two miles an hour, 
 according to the winds that are or have been prevalent. 
 
 Close to Cape Pillar are two small rocks, called the Launches ; they are 
 not more than three cables' length from the shore. The cape and the 
 shore on each side are steep-to ; off the cape, at two miles distance, are 60 
 and 70 fathoms, fine sand. 
 
 Proceeding along the outer, or S. W. coast, the APOSTLE and JUDGE 
 ROCKS show themselves; there are some from 5 to 50 feet high above 
 the water, but many breakers show near them, and indicate an extensive 
 reef. The outer rock is 4 miles from the land. Eleven miles from Cape 
 Pillar is DISLOCATION HARBOUR, a place of refuge for an embayed or dis- 
 tressed ship, but unfit for any other purpose ; its entrance is rendered 
 difficult to the eye, by rocks, on which the sea breaks violently, and by two 
 rocks under water, on which the sea does not always break. The place of 
 Dislocation harbour is pointed out by the heights, called LAW and 
 SHOULDER PEAKS ; they are the most remarkable on that part of the coast, 
 and immediately over the harbour. 
 
 To find the entrance, steer for the peaks, look out for the weather and lee 
 rocks, both several feet above water, the sea breaking violently on them ; 
 and when within four miles of the shore you will distinctly see the opening 
 from the mast-head. In going in, avoid the two rocks at the entrance, 
 and anchor in the innermost part; only a small ship can get out again 
 without a fair wind. The prevailing winds send in a swell, but the place 
 is quite secure. Water may be obtained very easily ; the boats can lie in 
 a stream which runs from the mountains, and fill alongside ; wood is 
 plentiful ; four small vessels may lie in security ; the bottom is very even, 
 15 to 25 fathoms, fine white sand.
 
 363 
 
 The entrance is narrow, exposed to the prevailing wind and swell, which 
 might, for days together, prevent a vessel from getting out to sea. Two 
 miles from Dislocation harbour is CAPE DESEADO, the highest land here- 
 about, and remarkable ; a rocky islet lies one mile off shore. From Cape 
 Deseado the coast runs high and unbroken for about two miles, then there 
 is an opening not examined. Several islands succeed for a space of two 
 miles, after which you open BARRISTER BAY, an exposed place, full of 
 islets, rocks, and breakers, and unfit for any vessel. 
 
 Cape Sunday is the next headland ; it is high and prominent ; two islets 
 and two dangerous rocks lie off it. This cape is on one of a cluster called 
 the Week islands. At their south side is a roadstead, with good holding, 
 in 18 or 20 fathoms, coarse gravel and sand, with patches of rock. It is 
 exposed to southerly winds and to those from the west, therefore it is not 
 advisable for a vessel to anchor there. Between the islands is a snug berth 
 for a small vessel, quite secure, but difficult of access. The eye must be the 
 chief guide in entering most of these places ; they are of one description, 
 inlets between high land, having generally deep water, with kelp buoying 
 the rocky places. Flaws of wind and violent gusts off the high land render 
 the approach to them difficult, and, to a large ship, impracticable. 
 
 LANDFALL ISLANDS lie six miles south of the Week islands. Between 
 the islands is a snug berth for a vessel not drawing more than 12 feet, in 
 perfect security, smooth water ; and a vessel should not moor in less than 
 10 fathoms, as close to the west shore as possible, with an anchor to the 
 eastward, in the event of the wind blowing from that quarter. Water and 
 wood are plentiful. CAPE INMAN, a remarkable headland, is at the west- 
 ern extremity of the Landfall islands. Off it are several detached rocks, 
 on which the sea breaks violently, and gives them a formidable appearance ; 
 the outermost one is not two miles from the shore, and shows itself plainly. 
 Behind the island, of which Cape Inman forms the most conspicuous part, 
 is LATITUDE BAY, an anchorage decidedly good, though somewhat exposed 
 to a swell thrown in by heavy N. W. winds. CAPE SCHETKY is a re- 
 markable double-peaked height, at the south extremity of the Landfall 
 islands ; some rocks just awash lie off it, distant one mile. The true course 
 along shore, after giving the Apostles a proper berth, is S. 29 E., as far as 
 the latitude of Cape Tate, the southern limit of Otway bay. 
 
 OTWAY BAY lies to the eastward of the Landfall islands : it is an exten- 
 sive space of water, surrounded by broken land, islets and rocks ; many of 
 the latter are scattered about, and render it unfit for any vessel. It is 
 probable that passages lead hence to the Straits of Magalhaens, as deep in- 
 lets run, in that direction as far as the eye can reach, from the Landfall 
 islands. Off CAPE TATE, which is rather high and rounded at the summit, 
 are several clusters of rocks, called the COLLEGE HOCKS; they are only 
 seen when near the land. 
 
 The FINCHAM ISLANDS next are noticed in passing along shore. There 
 are many islets and rocks near, and very many scattered between the 
 islands and Cape Tate. There is no good anchorage hereabout ; the coast 
 is very dangerous, and unfit to be approached. H. M. S., Beagle tried to 
 anchor in DEEP WATER SOUND, but failing to find a proper depth of 
 water, was obliged to drop her anchor upon the shelving end of a small 
 island, being too far up the sound to get out again before dark. Between 
 the Fincham islands and Cape Gloucester is BREAKER BAY, a large wild 
 place full of rocks and breakers, and exposed to all the strength of the west 
 winds ; it is a most unfit place for the approach of a vessel. The sur- 
 rounding coast is broken into islands, islets, and rocks almost innumerable. 
 
 CAPE GLOUCESTER is a very remarkable promontory, and cannot be
 
 364 
 
 mistaken. At a distance it appears to be a high detached island, but, on a 
 nearer approach, a low neck of land is seen, which connects it with the 
 largest of the Grafton islands. A rock, on which the sea breaks, lies nearly 
 one mile to the N. W. ; there is no danger. The cape may be passed quite, 
 being steep-to. It is a guide to EUSTON BAY, one of the best anchorages 
 on this coast ; one which can be approached and left with any wind, with- 
 out risk, and in which a fleet may He in perfect security from all but the 
 S. E. winds, the least prevalent on this coast. The GRAFTON ISLANDS 
 extend about 20 miles in a S. E. direction from Cape Gloucester ; between 
 them are several anchorages, but the best and easiest of access is Euston 
 bay. Passing Cape Gloucester you see a high island to the S. E., distant 7 
 miles ; this is IPSWICH ISLAND. Between it and Cape Gloucester is a bay, 
 in which are many rocks and breakers. 
 
 Rounding Ipswich island, you must give a good berth to the rocks under 
 water, which lie one mile from its S. E. extremity; the sea generally 
 breaks upon them. After clearing these rocks, pass close to Leading 
 island, and steer for the opening of LAURA BASIN, which you will see 
 under a high peaked mountain. In it there is water for a frigate, but it is 
 better suited to a small vessel. Large ships should anchor in the bay, and, 
 as the bottom is even and good, and the bay capacious, exposed only to S. 
 E. winds, which come on gradually and blow hard, it may be considered a 
 fit place for ships of any size. Wood and water are plentiful, and easy to 
 be obtained. The depth of water in the bay varies from 5 to 20 fathoms, 
 the bottom generally fine speckled sand. A large patch of kelp lies across 
 the entrance of the harbour, but there is no danger beneath it, except for a 
 line-of-battle ship, as in one spot there are 4 fathoms only. 
 
 NOIR ISLAND is of moderate height, about 600 feet above the sea, and 
 having a remarkable neck of land to the S. W., ended by a rock like a 
 steeple or tower. One mile south of this point is a sunken rock, over 
 which the sea occasionally breaks ; two other breakers are in the bight, 
 close to the point. There is an excellent roadstead under the east side of 
 Noir island. Several ships may lie there secure from all winds between 
 north and south by the west, over a clear sandy bottom. Wood and water 
 are plentiful, and easily obtained. There is a cove at the south part of the 
 island, where boats would be perfectly safe in any weather, but the entrance 
 is too narrow for vessels of any kind. The large space between Noir 
 island and the AGNES ISLANDS is extremely dangerous for shipping, being 
 scattered with rocks, some just awash, many shewing themselves several 
 feet above, others under water. Still there is abundant room to go 
 round the island, in perfect security, therefore, no ship need fear being 
 hampered by an east wind, in the event of anchoring in Noir roads. A 
 rock lies in the roads, and another, a very dangerous one, four miles to 
 the eastward. 
 
 Seven miles south of Noir island are the TOWER ROCKS ; they are high, 
 quite steep-to, and a ship may pass close to either side of them. 
 
 Between Noir island and CAPE SCHOMBERG, on London island, lie many 
 reefs, and a great number of detached outlying rocks, which render this 
 part of the coast extremely dangerous, and unfit for vessels. No chart 
 could guide them ; they must trust to daylight and clear weather, with a 
 good look-out, if necessary, to enter or leave the Barbara channel, which 
 opens into this bay. 
 
 The AGNES ISLANDS, and those in their neighbourhood, do not require 
 any description. They are so fortified by outlying rocks, as not to be fit 
 places for the approach of any vessel. Northward of them is STOKES BAY, 
 and to the eastward a number of islands, between which is the Barbara
 
 365 
 
 channel. No vessel ought to entangle herself in these labyrinths ; if she 
 does, she must sail by eye. Neither chart, directions nor soundings, 
 would be of much assistance, and, in thick weather, her situation would be 
 most precarious. 
 
 Between Noir and Kempe islands is the MILKY AVAY, a space of sea, in 
 every part of which rocks are seen just awash with, or a few feet above, 
 the water ; on them the sea continually breaks. 
 
 There are soundings over all the tract of sea between Noir and London 
 islands, seldom exceeding 60 fathoms, and near the rocks diminishing to 
 20, 15, and 10. 
 
 LONDON ISLAND is one of a large group called the Camden islands ; at its 
 east end is a safe anchorage called TOWNSHEND HARBOUR. The Horace 
 peaks point out its situation. Some rocks, on which the sea breaks violently, 
 lie off the islands, and near the entrance of PRATT PASSAGE. As there are 
 no soundings in less than 50 fathoms after passing these rocks, and getting 
 into the passage, you must depend upon the wind lasting to carry you into, 
 or out of, the harbour. The holding ground in it is excellent, and though 
 you have tremendous squalls off the high land to the westward, there is no 
 fear of an anchor starting. BRECKNOCK PASSAGE is wide and clear of all 
 danger. In entering or leaving the Barbara channel by this way is pre- 
 ferable to passing by the Fury rocks. CAPE DESOLATION, the south point 
 of Basket island, is a very remarkable headland, it is nigged, with many 
 peaks. The next promontory which is approached, in passing along the 
 coast, is CAPE CASTLEREAGH ; it is high and remarkable. Between this 
 and Cape Desolation is a large space of water, called DESOLATE BAY, 
 leading to Courtney sound, Theive's sound, and Whale-boat sound. Rocks 
 and breakers abound, and make these sounds quite unfit for shipping ; no 
 doubt small vessels might, in clear weather, traverse any of these passages, 
 but it would always be with much risk, and should not be attempted 
 without an adequate object. 
 
 Under Cape Castlereagh is an excellent anchorage, called STEWART 
 HARBOUR ; it is not large, but, for small vessels, is an exceedingly good 
 place, being easy of access with any wind, having three openings. A vessel 
 may anchor in the entrance and warp in ; there is nowhere more than 16 
 fathoms, generally from 6 to 12. Wood and water are plentiful, and easily 
 obtained. Two rocks lie nearly in the middle, just awash at high water. 
 A rock, on which the sea breaks, lies one mile west of the middle opening 
 to the harbour ; there is no other danger. Further to the S. E. are the 
 GILBERT ISLANDS, off which, distant 8 miles from Cape Castlereagh, are 
 the NICHOLSON ROCKS. Between the Stewart and Gilbert islands is 
 ADVENTURE PASSAGE, an open space with deep water, clear of danger. 
 At the north eastern side of the eastern Gilbert isle is DORIS COVE, a safe 
 anchorage for a small vessel. 
 
 The LONDONDERRY ISLANDS are the next, they extend nearly to Christ- 
 mas sound. TREBLE ISLAND is a remarkable height, having three peaks, 
 it is visible from a considerable distance ; near it are some straggling rocks. 
 Nine miles S. 22 E. from Treble island are the PHILLIPS ROCKS, they are 
 dangerous, though above water, because so far from the shore, and so low. 
 COOK BAY is a large space between Alikhoolip and Waterman island. 
 Broken land, islets, and breakers surround and make it unfit for the 
 approach of vessels. At the N. E. is the entrance of the BEAGLE CHANNEL, 
 and a passage to Whale-boat sound, both unfit for sailing vessels, excepting 
 with a fair wind. WATERMAN ISLAND is soon known by the remarkable 
 heights at its south part ; the southernmost is named YORK MINSTER, from 
 its fancied resemblance to that building ; it is a wild looking rock. Eight
 
 36G 
 
 miles west of York Minster, and five from Point May, are the CAPSTAN 
 ROCKS, above water about 20 feet. 
 
 CHRISTMAS SOUND TO CAPE HORN. Hauling round York 
 Minster you may enter CHRISTMAS SOUND. There is no hidden danger. 
 ADVENTURE COVE is the easiest of access, bat it will only hold one vessel. 
 MARCH HARBOUR is large, with good holding ground, but there are many 
 rocky places ; and one rock, under water, having on it only one fathom ; 
 its situation is marked by very thick kelp. H. M. Ship Beagle worked 
 through the narrow passage, round SHAG ISLAND, from Adventure cove, and 
 worked into the innermost corner of the harbour, without using a warp ; 
 larger vessels would, of course, find themselves more confined. PORT 
 CLERKE is a bad place for any vessel, though quite secure when in it ; 
 access is difficult, and, from its situation, it is exposed to very violent 
 squalls. PICKERSGILL COVE, as an anchorage, is unworthy of notice. 
 
 Eastward of Christmas sound lie the WOOD ISLANDS, there is no good 
 anchorage among them ; passages and broken land lie behind them to the 
 northward. Off POINT NATIVITY are two islands and an outlying rock. 
 HOPE ISLAND is 6 miles to the S. E. of this point. The ILDEFONSOS, a large 
 group of rocks and islets, are 35 miles distant from York Minster, and bear 
 from that spot S. E. ^ S. : they extend 5 miles in a N. W. and S. E. 
 direction, are very narrow, and about 100 feet above the sea ; you may pass 
 close by them in a vessel, for there is no danger. Neither Trefuse's bay 
 nor Rous sound afford anchorage. 
 
 LEADING HILL is a very remarkable double peaked height ; beyond it 
 are Duffs bay, Morton and Henderson islands, and the entrance of Indian 
 sound ; the latter is a large tract of water, extending to the N. W., it is 
 full of islands. CLEARBOTTOM BAY is at the north end of Morton island, 
 and a good anchorage. INDIAN COVE is not a place to be recommended to 
 vessels ; they must go far among the islands to reach it, and, when there, 
 have a bad rocky bottom, with deep water. Many better anchorages may 
 be attained on this coast, with less trouble. Between CAPE WEDDELL, at 
 the east side of Indian sound, and FALSE CAPE HORN is a tract of broken 
 land, which is, however, a lee-shore during S. W. and Southerly winds, and 
 therefore unfit for anchorage. 
 
 On HENDERSON ISLAND is a high sharp-pointed hill, which is visible at 
 a great distance. From its summit the DIEGO RAMIREZ ISLANDS were 
 seen, though 50 miles distant. The highest point of these islands is about 
 150 feet above the sea. There is no hidden danger near them. They lie 
 nearly north and south, and extend over a space of 5 miles. A ship may 
 pass between the northern cluster and that to the southward. Detached 
 rocks lie off the southern island ; all the outer ones are above water. The 
 southern, or BOAT ISLAND, has a cove at its N. E. corner, in which 
 boats may land ; there is water on the point close to the eastward of this 
 landing-place. 
 
 FALSE CAPE HORN is a very remarkable headland, from the east or 
 west it looks like a large horn. It is a leading mark to the best anchorage 
 on this coast. ORANGE BAY. To anchor in this bay you must pass to 
 the eastward of the False Cape as close as you please. Steering N. E. 
 (true) for 4 miles will bring you abreast of Point Lort ; a bay two miles 
 wide is then opened, in which you may anchor, if necessary, in 8 or 10 
 fathoms, over a fine sandy bottom. Some rocks, above water, lie at the 
 north side. Beyond the point, which forms the north side of this bay, is 
 a small cove, with 18 fathoms water in the middle ; beyond it is another 
 cove, rather larger, after which you open Schapenham bay ; a north course 
 (true) from Point Lort will take you abreast of Orange bay.
 
 367 
 
 SCHAPENHAM BAY is one mile and a half wide ; there is a small black 
 rock, above water, rather to the northward of its middle. A great deal of 
 kelp, lying over a rocky bottom, is seen at the head of the bay, and a large 
 waterfall marks the place distinctly. There is anchorage in from 10 to 15 
 fathoms, near the south point, which is not to be recommended, when by 
 going further a vessel may get into an unexceptionable harbour, or anchor 
 off its entrance in perfect security. 
 
 The land behind these coves that have been mentioned is high and 
 rugged ; two singular peaks shew themselves, which resemble sentry-boxes. 
 Near the shore the land is low, compared with other parts of the coast, and 
 has not the iron-bound forbidding appearance of the more westerly shores. 
 From the heights sudden and very strong squalls blow during westerly 
 winds. Being generally a weather shore, and regular soundings extending 
 along it, there is no difficulty in choosing or approaching an anchorage. 
 
 Off ORANGE BAY anchor soundings extends to two miles from the 
 land. The opening of the bay is 3 miles wide, and in that part are 18 or 20 
 fathoms, over fine speckled sand. Two islands, the larger having a smooth 
 down-like appearance, lie in the middle ; behind them is the harbour, a 
 square mile of excellent anchorage, without a single rock or shoal. In the 
 two creeks at the south side is good anchorage for small vessels ; the depth 
 of water varies gradually from 5 to 20 fathoms. The bottom, every where, 
 is a fine speckled sand. The land hereabouts is low, comparatively speak- 
 ing, and you are not annoyed by the violent squalls which come from the 
 heights in other places. Wood and water are plentiful ; the best watering 
 place is in a small cove at the north side, called WATER COVE. Off the 
 north point are several small islets, which must not be approached too 
 closely; they are, however, out of the way. Six miles N. N. W. of the 
 outer anchorage is a curious island, like a Packsaddle. Orange bay is 
 somewhat open to the east winds, but they seldom blow strong, and would 
 be fair for ships bound westward. No sea can be thrown in, because of the 
 Hermite islands. There is no current here worthy of notice. The tide 
 rises 6 feet ; high water at half-past three. 
 
 NASSAU BAY extends to the North and N. W. into the BEAGLE CHAN- 
 NEL. It is very accessible, and free from dangers. Anchorage may be 
 found on each coast, and the only dangers are some rocks or islets above 
 water, and visible at a distance by daylight. The northern shore is low, 
 particularly towards GUANACO POINT, where the coast first begins to 
 shew signs of approaching. 
 
 EASTERN PATAGONIA, changing its rocky heights for level land, and low 
 earthy cliffs. In Nassau bay the compasses are much affected ; they be- 
 come very sluggish, and might cause a serious error, if not carefully 
 attended to.* 
 
 Opposite to the land lying between New Year's and Tekeinika sound, 
 called Hardy peninsula, are the HERMITE ISLANDS, on the southernmost of 
 
 * Captain P. P. King says, " The magnetic needle was very remarkably affected in many 
 parts of the islands of the group, although I did not observe any great difference when at a 
 distance from the rock of which they are formed, or on hoard the ship. On one occasion, on 
 ascending the summit of Maxwell island, in Port Maxwell, the compass was placed, for conve- 
 nience, upon the rock, when the needle was found to he so much influenced by the ferruginous 
 nature of the rock, composed of quartz, with large and numerous crystals of hornblende, that 
 its poles became exactly reversed. An experiment was afterwards made, by taking a set of 
 hearings of a distant object (to prevent an error of parallax) at several stations around, at 50 
 yards from the above magnetic rock, when the extreme difference amounted to 127. The 
 block upon which the compass was placed in the first instance, is now in the Museum of the 
 Geological Society."
 
 368 
 
 which is CAPE HORN. There is nothing very striking in the appearance 
 of this promontory, as seen from a distance, but, in passing near, it is 
 more remarkable, shewing high black cliffs toward the south ; it is about 
 500 feet above the sea. No dangers exist to the southward, in approach- 
 ing these islands. 
 
 In the channel between False Cape Horn and the Hermite islands, a 
 current is found setting into Nassau bay, and rather towards the Hermite 
 islands, at the rate of two knots an hour, with the flood tide, and about 
 half a knot with the ebb. As this current sets rather towards WEST 
 CAPK, a good berth must be given to it in passing. A strong current sets, 
 at times, along the outer coast of the Hermite islands, and through the 
 Bay of St. Francis. It varies from half a knot to two knots an hour, 
 according to the wind and the time of tide, and, in the bay, changes its 
 direction with the change of tide. 
 
 The land about ST. MARTIN'S COVE is high and rugged. Temporary 
 anchorage may be had in the small bay leading to ST. JOACHIM'S COVE, 
 or under the south head of St. Martin's cove, where you find from 20 to 
 25 fathoms, over a clear sandy bottom. As you approach the western end 
 of St. Martin's cove the water shoals to 15 and 10 fathoms. It is per- 
 fectly secure, but visited by very violent squalls during a westerly wind. 
 Wollaston and Herschal islands have ridges of mountains. KATER'S 
 PEAK, the highest land (excepting MOUNT HYDE) on the islands, is 1,700 
 feet above the sea. 
 
 PORT MAXWELL is a perfectly secure anchorage, but it is rather out of 
 the way. Though it has four openings, only two are fit for vessels, those to 
 the north and east. The best berth in it has 16 fathoms water, over a 
 clear sandy bottom. This harbour is decidedly good, though it requires a 
 little more time and trouble in the approach. The passages between these 
 islands have deep water, and are free from dangers ; what few rocks there 
 are shew themselves above water, or are thickly covered with kelp. Some 
 rocks lie off the south end of Chanticleer island, too close to be of much 
 consideration. 
 
 CAPE HORN TO CAPE SAN DIEGO. One mile to the westward 
 of Cape Horn there are three rocks, generally above water ; the sea always 
 breaks on them. Off the east point of HORN ISLAND are some small rocks 
 and breakers. Off CAPE DECEIT are several rocks, all above water ; and 
 two miles to the S. E. is a cluster, rising 30 or 40 feet above the sea. 
 
 Off Cape Horn the current is as strong as on any part of the coast. 
 Between it and Cape Pillar it is by no means regular ; sometimes with a 
 strong wind and flowing tide it runs two knots an hour, at others it is 
 hardly worth notice ; it never sets to the westward at any time of tide or 
 with any wind. 
 
 The BARNEVELT ISLANDS lie 11 miles N. by E. from Cape Deceit. 
 The space between Cape Deceit and New island, is said to be free from 
 hidden dangers In GOREE ROAD there is very good anchorage in 6 or 
 7 fathoms water, over a sandy bottom. LENNOX ISLAND as well as NEW 
 ISLAND, and indeed any part of the coast hereabouts, may be approached 
 with confidence, using the lead and looking out for kelp. There are no 
 shoals, but the water is not so deep as to the west of Cape Horn, neither 
 is the land near so high. At the east side of Lennox island is excellent 
 anchorage ; small vessels may go into a cove, but large ships must anchor in 
 the road, which is quite secure, and sheltered from all but S. E. winds, 
 with which, of course, a vessel would not wish to remain at anchor. To the 
 north of Lennox island is the eastern opening of the BEAGLE CHANNEL ; it 
 is easy of access, but useless to a ship. Boats may profit by its straight
 
 369 
 
 course and smooth water. This channel averages 1^ mile in width, 
 and in general has deep water; but there are in it many islets and 
 rocks near them. 
 
 A range of high mountains runs uninterruptedly from the Barbara 
 channel to Strait Le Maire, Mount Sarmiento, more than 5,000 feet above 
 the sea, is in this range. Southward of these mountains is a succession of 
 broken land, intersected by passages or large sounds. A boat cannot go 
 from the Week islands to the eastern entrance of the Beagle channel, 
 without being once exposed to the outside coast, or to the sea which is 
 there found. 
 
 Good temporary anchorage, during westerly winds, may be obtained 
 under NEW ISLAND, or near the shore to the northward ; but there is no 
 good harbour, between Richmond road and Good Success, in Strait Le 
 Maire ; regular soundings are found hereabouts in all directions, and the 
 shore is steep-to. Neither AQUIRRE BAY, SPANIARD'S HARBOUR, nor 
 VALENTYN'S BAY are fit for more than temporary anchorage, during 
 northerly or westerly winds. They are much exposed to the south. 
 
 The tide is felt strongly on this part of the coast, causing races and eddies 
 near the projecting points. In the offing the current or tide sets towards 
 Strait Le Maire, from 1 to 3 knots an hour, when the water is rising on 
 the shore, and the wind westerly. While the water is failing it runs with 
 less strength, and with an easterly wind is not felt at all. 
 
 The BELL MOUNTAIN is remarkable ; it is seen far at sea, from the 
 north as well as from the south ; it is high, and in shape resembles a large 
 bell. CAPE GOOD SUCCESS is high and bluff; some rocks lie close to it, 
 above water. Rather more than two miles N. E. of Cape Good Success is 
 a projecting headland, which, at first, appears to be a cape ; two rocky 
 islets shew themselves close to it, and, from a distance, appear like a ship 
 under sail. Six miles from these rocks N. E. by N. is the BAY OF GOOD 
 SUCCESS. It is a good anchorage, perfectly safe, provided that a vessel does 
 not anchor too far in towards the sandy beach at its head ; for, during S. E. 
 gales, a heavy swell with dangerous rollers sets right into the bay. Heights 
 of about 1,200 feet above the sea surround the bay, therefore, with strong 
 winds, it is subject to squalls, which, during westerly gales, are very violent. 
 The Broad Road is a good mark for the bay, if the inbend of the land does 
 not sufficiently point out its situation. It is a barren strip of land, on the 
 height at the south side of the harbour. MAURICE COVE has .no good 
 anchorage, it is merely a rocky bight. Hence to Cape San Diego the land 
 is much lower, and the water near it less deep. 
 
 CAPE SAN DIEGO is low ; a ship may go close to it. There are shoaler 
 soundings towards the east, for about two miles, than in other parts near 
 here, for a rocky ledge, under water, seems to project from the cape. On 
 this ledge there are overfalls, strong eddies, and a violent race of tide when 
 the wind is opposed to it. Beyond Cape San Diego the land suddenly 
 trends away westward. CAPE ST. VINCENT is a rocky point, with low 
 bluffs above it ; between this point and Cape San Diego is THETIS BAY, a 
 tolerable anchorage during west or southerly winds, though the bottom is 
 rocky in many places. Between the heads the tides run with great strength, 
 therefore a ship should anchor off a green bluff at the west side, and within 
 the line of the heads she will have from 6 to 12 fathoms of water, over 
 a coarse sandy bottom, mixed with patches of rock. Beyond Cape St. 
 Vincent the land trends to the West and N. W. ; it is rather low near the 
 sea, but inshore are many hills partially covered with wood. 
 
 Between Cape Horn and Staten island regular soundings are found, 
 between 30 and 70 fathoms, over a sandy bottom. The soundings in 
 
 3 A
 
 370 
 
 STRAIT LE MAIRE are similar near their southern entrance ; towards the 
 north the soundings diminish ; and, two miles from Cape San Diego, there 
 are not more than 30 fathoms water, over a rocky bottom. The strait is 
 clear of all obstacles, the tide excepted. The land, from Cape Good Success 
 to Maurice cove, is high and bold, with water for a ship as near to it as she 
 ought to go. 
 
 The tides in STRAIT LE MAIRE are as regular as in any part of the 
 world. They will assist a vessel materially in her passage, if taken at the 
 right time. As the strait is very wide, perfectly free from obstacles of any 
 kind, the soundings regular, with Good Success bay close at hand, in case 
 the wind or tide should change, vessels may pass through without difficulty 
 or risk. When the tide opposes the wind and swell there is a heavy, and, 
 for small vessels, dangerous race of tide off Cape San Diego, where, as 
 before stated, there is a shoal ledge, and the tide runs very strongly. 
 
 It is high water on the shore in GOOD SUCCESS BAY, and slack water in 
 the strait, at four in the afternoon, on the full and change days, and low 
 water, with slack tide in the offing, at ten in the morning ; the tide rises 
 perpendicularly from 6 to 8 feet, according to the wind. At Cape Pillar 
 the turn of tide is about one o'clock. Along the S. W. and S. E. coasts the 
 time gradually increases to four in the afternoon at this place. From Cape 
 San Diego to the northward the tide sets north .and west along the 
 shore, from one knot to three ; the ebb sets in a contrary direction, but not 
 so strongly. 
 
 In Strait Le Maire the flood tide runs from two to four knots near the 
 Cape, and from one to three in mid-channel, more or less according to the 
 strength and direction of the wind. The ebb sets to the southward, about 
 one knot an hour. The flood tide sets through Strait Le Maire from the 
 southward, and along the north and south sides of Staten island from east 
 to west. It is high water, at full and change, at the anchorage within the 
 New Year's isles, as well as on the east side of Strait Le Maire, at 5 o'clock. 
 The current is very strong, running from 4 to 6 knots. Off Cape St. John 
 there is a tide race, which extends for some distance off the point. 
 
 STATEN ISLAND is high, and its mountains are generally covered with 
 snow. Its shores lying towards the strait is very bold and rugged. No 
 danger is near them, excepting strong eddies and races, caused by the tide 
 near the headlands. 
 
 CAPE- ST. ANTONY, MIDDLE CAPE, and CAPE SAN BARTHOLOMEW 
 are high bluff promontories. The soundings to the northward are very 
 regular, and give notice of your approach to Staten island, or the Strait 
 Le Maire. 
 
 REMARKS UPON THE PASSAGE ROUND CAPE HORN, by Captain P. 
 P. King. " Ships bound from the Atlantic to any of the ports in the 
 Pacific will find it advantageous to keep within 100 miles of the coast of 
 Eastern Patagonia, as well to avoid the heavy sea that is raised by the 
 westerly gales, which prevail to the eastward, and increase in strength 
 according to the distance from the land, as to profit by the variableness of 
 the wind when fixed in the western board. Near the coast, from April to 
 September, when the sun has north declination, the winds prevail more 
 from the W. N. W. to N. N. W. than from any other quarter. Easterly 
 gales are of very rare occurrence, but, even when they do blow, the direc- 
 tion being obliquely upon the coast, I do not consider it at all hazardous to 
 keep the land on board. In the opposite season, when the sun has south 
 declination, the winds will incline from the southward of west, and fre- 
 quently blow hard ; but, as the coast is a weather shore, the sea goes 
 down immediately after the gale. In this season, although the winds are
 
 371 
 
 generally against a ship's making quick progress, yet as they seldom remain 
 fixed in one point, and frequently shift backward and forward 6 or 8 points 
 in as many hours, advantage may be taken of the change so as to keep 
 close in with the coast. 
 
 " Having once made the land, which should be done to the southward of 
 Cape Blanco, it will be beneficial to keep it topping on the horizon, until 
 the entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens be passed. 
 
 " With respect to this part of the voyage, whether to pass through Strait 
 Le Maire, or round Staten island, much difference of opinion exists. 
 Prudence, I think, suggests the latter ; yet I should very reluctantly give 
 up the opportunity that might offer of clearing the Strait, and, therefore, of 
 being so much more to windward. With a southerly wind it would not be 
 advisable to attempt the Strait, for, with a weather tide, the sea runs very 
 cross and deep, and might severely injure and endanger the safety of a small 
 vessel, and to a large one do much damage. In calm weather it would be still 
 more imprudent (unless the western side of the Strait can be reached, where 
 a ship might anchor) on account of the tides setting over to the Staten island 
 side ; where, if it becomes necessary to anchor, it would necessarily be in 
 very deep water, and close to the land. With a northerly wind the route 
 seems not only practicable, but very advantageous, and it would require 
 some resolution to give up the opportunity so invitingly offered. I doubt 
 whether northerly winds, unless they are very strong, blow through the 
 Strait, if not, a ship is drifted over to the eastern shores, where, from the 
 force of the tides, she must be quite unmanageable." 
 
 Captain Fitzroy, whose authority, from his experience, must be very 
 good, seems t6 think there is neither difficulty nor risk in passing the Strait. 
 The only danger that does exist, and that may be an imaginary one, is 
 the failure of the wind. Ships passing through it from the south are 
 not so liable to the failure of the south-westerly wind, unless it be light, 
 and then it will probably be from the N. W. at the northern end of the 
 Strait. The anchorage in Good Success bay, however, is admirably situated 
 should the wind or tide fail. 
 
 In passing to leeward of Staten island the tide race, which extends for 
 some distance off Cape St. John, at the N. E. end of the island, must be 
 avoided, otherwise there exist no dangers. 
 
 The anchorage under New Year's islands, although it is a wild one and 
 the bottom bad, and the tide very strong, yet offers good shelter from S. W. 
 winds, and might be occupied with advantage during the existence of a 
 gale from that quarter, since it is unfavourable for ships bound round 
 the Horn. 
 
 After passing Staten island, if the wind be westerly, the ship should be 
 kept upon the starboard tack, unless it veers to the southward of S. S. W., 
 until she reaches the latitude of 60 S., and then upon that tack upon which 
 most westing may be made. In this parallel, however, the wind is thought 
 to prevail more from the eastward than from any other quarter. Never 
 having passed round Cape Horn in the summer season, I may not perhaps 
 be justified in opposing my opinion to that of others, who, having tried 
 both seasons, give the preference to the summer months. The advantage 
 of long days is certainly very great, but, from my experience of the winds 
 and weather during these opposite seasons, at Port Famine, I preferred the 
 winter passage ; and, in our subsequent experience of it, I found no reason 
 to alter my opinon. Easterly and northerly winds prevail in the winter, 
 off the cape, whilst southerly and westerly winds are constant during the 
 summer months; and not only are the winds more favourable in the 
 winter, but they are moderate in comparison to the fury of summer gales.
 
 372 
 
 Having passed the meridian of Cape Pillar, it will yet be advisable to 
 take every opportunity of making westing, in preference to northing, until 
 reaching the meridian of 82 or 84, which will enable a ship to steer 
 through the north-westerly winds that prevail between the parallels of 
 50 and 54. 
 
 SECTION X. 
 TRACKS ACROSS THE ATLANTIC. 
 
 ENGLAND TO BRAZIL. Vessels leaving the English channel are 
 recommended to shape their course so as to pass well to the westward of 
 Cape Finisterre (latitude 42 54', longitude 9 17') at from 30 to 50 
 leagues. Passing the Coast of Portugal steer for the Madeira islands, and 
 endeavour to make Porto Santo, which lies in latitude 33 3', longitude 
 16 18', as by getting sight of this island you will proceed on your voyage 
 with greater certainty. In the Bay of Biscay, and to the westward of 
 Ushant, the current sets to the westward, at times, in winter, but in 
 summer it generally sets N. E. and Easterly. It is often found to set 
 eastward from March to November, particularly when westerly winds 
 prevail ; and off Cape Finisterre, and near the south part of the bay, it sets 
 mostly along the coast to the eastward ; and, along the east side of the 
 bay, it sets to the northward, parallel to the west Coast of France. Caution 
 is therefore requisite, with a westerly wind, in standing to the southward 
 to weather Cape Finisterre ; for, should a ship's position not be ascertained 
 by chronometers or lunar observations, it would be imprudent, in gloomy 
 blowing weather, to stand to the southward in the night, if not certain of 
 being well to the westward of the cape. 
 
 Sometimes gales of wind from W. N. W. blow into the Bay of Biscay, 
 continuing for several days ; and some of the outward-bound East India 
 ships have been driven far into the bay during these gales, in April and 
 May. If a ship have the misfortune to lose any of her masts, during one 
 of these gales, the heavy sea rolling in from N. W. and W. N. W., with 
 an easterly current, would unavoidably force her to leeward, and, should 
 the gale continue long and severe, she might be in danger of drifting on a 
 lee-shore. 
 
 During the winter months, those who are not desirous of stopping in 
 Funchal road should pass to the westward of Madeira, at any convenient 
 distance, not less than C or 7 leagues, as strong westerly gales prevail in 
 November, December, and January, which produce severe squalls and eddy 
 winds, near the island on the east side. 
 
 Having sailed to the westward of Madeira, it is advisable to pass to the 
 westward of the Canary and Cape Verd islands, keeping at any discretional 
 distance, or barely in sight of them. By this course you will not only 
 avoid the light winds and calms which frequently prevail among these 
 islands, as well as several dangers in their vicinity, but may reasonably 
 expect a steadier breeze ; although there are instances of ships, after passing 
 in sight of the Canaries, to the westward, having the wind from that quar- 
 ter, which obliged them to pass to the eastward of the Cape Verd islands. 
 
 Leaving the Canary and Cape Verd islands steer on southerly, and 
 endeavour to cross the Equator, between the meridians of 1 8 and 23 W., 
 but by no means further to the westward, lest the westerly current, which 
 sweeps round Cape St. Roque, lead you into danger.
 
 373 
 
 In approaching the Coast of Brazil, considerable attention should be paid 
 to the season of the year ; periodical winds prevailing from S. S. E. and 
 S. E., from March to September, the current then running northerly ; but 
 between September and March the wind blows from the N. E. to E. N. E., 
 and it then sets to the southward. It is, in consequence, advisable to make 
 the land to windward of the port bound for, and according to these period- 
 ical winds, which commonly govern the current when the sun is in the 
 northern hemisphere ; the winds on this coast will incline more from the 
 south-eastward, than in the opposite season (when the sun is to the south- 
 ward of the Equator) for then they prevail to the eastward. 
 
 It also appears that, in any season of the year, if the coast be not made 
 to the northward of Cape St. Augustine, there will be no difficulty in 
 getting on to the southward ; for ships which made the land in latitude 7 
 or 8, even in the unfavourable season, by making a few tacks, always 
 readily proceeded to the southward, and experienced little or no northerly 
 current ; nevertheless, in a bad sailing ship, it would be highly imprudent 
 to make it to the northward of Cape St. Augustine, especially between the 
 months of March and October ; and certainly it should never be made to 
 the northward of Cape Ledo, or near Cape St. Roque, on account of the 
 S. E. winds and W. N. W. currents, before-mentioned, which might fatally 
 sweep you round to the northward of the Cape. 
 
 Every navigator should, therefore, be attentive to the time of year he 
 makes the Coast of Brazil, there being a kind of monsoon, or trade-wind, 
 blowing from the N. E. and E. N. E., with a current setting south, from 
 the month of September to March ; while from March to August, the winds 
 are from the S. E., E. S. E., and S. S. E., the current then setting north ; 
 according, therefore, to the seasons, he should run into a higher or lower 
 latitude than the port he is bound to. 
 
 From Cape St. Roque to Cape St. Augustine the land may be approached 
 by soundings of moderate depth, and gradually lessening as you approach 
 the shore. 
 
 A strong southerly current commences from Cape St. Augustine, about 
 the middle of October and continues until January ; no particular current 
 succeeds till the month of April, when, generally about the middle of that 
 month, a strong one sets in northerly until July, when it again subsides 
 until October ; near the shore the wind, for nine months in the year, 
 generally blows north-easterly in the morning, and north-westerly during 
 the night, continuing gradually to change along the coast, until, at Rio 
 Janeiro and the River Plate, it becomes a regular land-breeze from evening 
 to morning, and throughout the day the reverse. From the end of February 
 till the month of May the wind is mostly from the south, blowing strong 
 and stormy, with frequent squalls from the S. W. 
 
 COAST OF BRAZIL TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. The 
 directions given for this route by Captain Horsburgh, are as follows : 
 " During most months of the year the south-east trade fails about the 
 southern tropic, or 2 or 3 beyond it, when the wind is found to veer from 
 eastward to north-east, and northward ; the northerly winds prevail more" 
 than any other in the vicinity of the south-east trade, and as far as latitude 
 34- or 35 S., from the Coast of Brazil to the meridian of London, or a little 
 further eastward. When therefore a ship departs from the Brazil coast, or 
 has got to the southward of the south-east trade, she will most probably, 
 in almost every month of the year, meet with brisk winds veering from 
 N. E. to N. W., and sometimes to W. and W. S. W., which will carry 
 her quickly to the eastward. These variable winds keep mostly between 
 north-east and north, attended with smooth water and fine weather.
 
 374 
 
 When cloudy weather accompanies these northerly or north-east winds 
 there is a risk of a sudden shift to the south-west or south. 
 
 A ship by running to the eastward, in the track of these winds, gradually 
 increasing the latitude as she proceeds, will often make greater progress 
 than by going to 38 or 39 S. in search of westerly winds. Although 
 here the westerly winds prevail during most months of the year, they are 
 often very unsettled, completing a revolution round the horizon, coincident 
 with the course of the sun every two, three, or four days, with intervening 
 calms, particularly when the wind is from the south-west quarter, ft 
 seems, therefore, inexpedient to increase the latitude more than 35 S., till 
 a ship has reached the meridian of London; she may then gradually 
 proceed into 36 or 37 S., as she approaches the Cape, for the southerly 
 winds which prevail around the cape-land from January to April (and at 
 times in other months) extend far to the westward. 
 
 In February and March these southerly winds are frequently experienced 
 between the Cape and the meridian of London, on which account it is pru- 
 dent for a ship bound to it in this season, to increase her latitude to 35 or 
 35 30' S., when she draws into east longitude. She ought then to keep in 
 about 35 30' S., if possible, till the Cape is nearly approached, to prevent 
 being driven to northward of Table bay by the southerly winds. 
 
 From December to April, if it is not intended to touch at the Cape, a ship 
 should get into latitude 37 or 38 S., about the meridian of London, and 
 and keep in 37 and 39 S. in running down her easting ; for the winds will 
 be found as variable for this purpose in 38 or 39 S., or probably more so, 
 than if she were in a higher latitude. In passing the bank of Cape 
 Aguilhas, the stream of current setting westward ought to be avoided by 
 keeping at least in latitude 37 S.; and she should not go to the northward 
 of this parallel in running down her easting, after passing the Cape, or she 
 may be greatly retarded by the south-easterly winds which prevail in these 
 months, to the northward of latitude 35 or 36 S. 
 
 ROUTE HOMEWARDS. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ST. 
 HELENA. Having rounded the Cape of Good Hope, a direct course for 
 St. Helena is about N. N. W. to N. N. W. W., 566 leagues ; it is how- 
 ever advisable to steer about N. W. by N. until a considerable .distance is 
 gained from the western Coast of Africa, because you are liable to encounter 
 N. W. and W. N. W. squalls at times, particularly when near the coast ; it 
 is true they do not often happen, but they have sometimes been experienced 
 in both seasons. A direct course about N. N. W. % W. or N. N. W. will 
 then be fair for St. Helena. 
 
 If the wind be strong, veering to the E. S. E., allowance for a leeward 
 current should be made, particularly should the weather happen to be 
 cloudy and the longitude uncertain. In such case it will be prudent to 
 make the latitude of the island several leagues to the eastward of it ; and 
 haul round the N. E. or Sugar-loaf point for the anchorage, as described 
 in the particular directions for St. Helena, in a subsequent portion of this 
 work. 
 
 ST. HELENA TO THE EQUATOR, AND THENCE HOME- 
 WARDS. Leaving St. Helena, a direct course N. W. by N. may be steered 
 for Ascension island, and in this part of the passage a steady S. E. trade 
 generally prevails all the year, with westerly current at times. Ascension 
 may.be passed on either side at any convenient distance, but it is usual to 
 pass to the westward of it, at from 3 or 4 to 10 or 12 leagues distance. 
 Proceeding from Ascension towards the Equator, steer N. N.W. or N. by W. 
 | W., and endeavour to cross it between the meridian of 18 and 25 W., 
 taking care you do not get to the eastward of the former, nor westward of
 
 375 
 
 the latter. Should the sun be in the northern hemisphere, cross it, if pos- 
 sible, between 21 and 23, as variable light winds extend a great way out 
 from the coast of Africa in July, August, and September, whilst the sun is 
 returning from the tropic of Cancer to the Equator. 
 
 To sail from the Equator to the northward, a N. or N. by "W. course may 
 be steered, if the southerly winds become light, in order to reach the N. E. 
 trade as soon as possible ; but if variable light breezes are found to continue 
 far to the northward of the Equator, a berth of 40 or 50 leagues at least 
 ought to be given to the Cape Vercl islands. In crossing the N. E. trade 
 a ship's sails should be kept well filled to enable her to gain speedily to the 
 northward. In this route the Sargasso sea, hereafter more fully noticed, is 
 usually first seen about the parallel of 24 or 25 N., extending sometimes 
 as far to the northward as 40 or 4-1 N. When ships get to the northward 
 of the northern limit of the trade-wind in latitude 30 or 32 N. their lon- 
 gitude will be generally from 39 to 42 W. 
 
 Should the wind veer to the N. W. on approaching the Azores, you may 
 pass through one of the channels of this islands, and thence pursue a course 
 for the English channel according to circumstances. It is seldom advisable 
 to pass to the eastward of the Azores, because northerly winds, which often 
 prevail between them and the Portuguese coast, are unfavourable for pur- 
 suing/ a direct course towards the channel ; it is, therefore recommended 
 to pass round to the westward, though it has sometimes happened that 
 vessels sailing to the eastward of the Azores have met with S. W. and W. 
 winds, and reached the channel sooner than others, which went round to 
 the westward of those islands. 
 
 SAILING UP THE ENGLISH CHANNEL. 
 
 IN all previous instructions for entering the British Channel, it has been 
 directed for ships to get into the parallel of 49 25' to 49 30' ; but this, 
 as Captain Horsburgh very justly remarks, seems intended for ships 
 navigating by dead reckoning, and even in that respect are improper; 
 because ships endeavouring to get into that parallel from the southward, 
 would be under the necessity of making a more circuitous route, than 
 would be requisite, in steering a direct course for the Lizard point ; and as 
 S. W. or westerly winds are prevalent for the most part of the year, there 
 is no necessity to steer so far to the northward, which, in war time, would 
 be very likely to run the risk of being captured, added to which is the very 
 probable danger of meeting with a sudden shift of wind, when nearing the 
 Scilly islands, and thereby get driven into the St. George's Channel ; these 
 and many other reasons of equal weight that could be adduced, is sufficient 
 to prove the error of following such directions. What Captain Horsburgh 
 advises (and his long experience, ability, and elevated station, eminently 
 qualify him to give the best directions) is to shape a direct course, after 
 passing the Azores, towards the Lizard point, inclining a little to the north- 
 ward, or otherwise as circumstances or winds may render most advisable. 
 It is highly necessary here to offer some remarks on the current, which oc- 
 casionally sets athwart the entrance of the English Channel to the N. W. 
 and W. N. W. from the Bay of Biscay, and which, from not being noticed, 
 has often been productive of very serious mischief. It is a temporary 
 stream, and not perceptible, unless there has been a continuation of westerly 
 and south-westerly winds ; this forces an unusual quantity of water into 
 the bay, which makes its escape by setting to the N. W. or W. N. W., at
 
 376 
 
 some distance to the westward of the isles of TJshant and Scilly ; it may 
 be presumed that the stream generally goes off to the N. W. about the 
 parallel of 51, between longitude 14 and 15, and of course the velocity 
 will be proportionate with the direction and strength of the wind. 
 
 As a general remark, it may be observed, that the current sets to the 
 westward, at times in the winter, but in summer generally to the N. E. 
 and easterly. The middle of the stream always preserves its original 
 course, which is about N. W. by W. much longer than the edges, whose 
 course is on the eastern side more north, and the western side more west ; 
 for which reason the northern current has more force near to the west of 
 Scilly, than further to the westward ; and therefore it is evident that ships 
 which cross the current in an oblique direction, steering a true E. by S. course, 
 or more southerly, or with light winds, will be more affected by it than 
 those which steer more directly across it. On approaching the channel in 
 the night time, if there should have been a continuance of westerly winds, 
 it would be dangerous to run eastward, notwithstanding a good observation 
 of latitude may have been made, for in that case a ship might be drifted by 
 the current, from what would be considered a safe parallel to the parallel 
 of the Scilly rocks ; in order to avoid any danger, it is best to keep at the 
 highest in 48 45' ; because the whole effect of the current in the worst 
 situation, may be felt if you should get into the parallel of 49 30'; whereas 
 from the current in 48 45', a wind from the southward will set the ship 
 into the Channel. 
 
 Near the entrance of the Channel N. E. and northerly winds generally 
 prevail from January to May, and from May to December, S. W. and 
 westerly winds are mostly experienced ; sometimes southerly and N. W. 
 winds prevail, but they are seldom of any long continuance, and generally 
 veer to the westward, although sometimes they veer to north and north- 
 eastward. Therefore from January to May, when N. E. or northerly winds 
 are prevalent, it will be best to get into about 49, when approaching the 
 meridian of Cape Clear, from whence an easterly course ought to be fol- 
 lowed for the Lizard, and if the wind should blow steady from the 
 northward, the parallel of 49 30' may be preserved in passing the Scilly 
 islands. If from April or May to about December, when S. \V. and 
 westerly winds mostly prevail, you should get into the latitude of 48, 
 when you reach the meridian of Cape Clear, and from this situation a 
 direct course may be steered for the Lizard point. 
 
 The Ushant lights are in latitude 48 28' North, and generally supposed 
 longitude 5 85' ; but Captain Heywood, who is acknowledged to be a 
 very clever and intelligent officer, made them in longitude 5 13j' or 1 
 44j' West from Torbay anchorage, by good chronometers. Near Ushant 
 the soundings are about 54 fathoms. High water half-past 4, and the 
 variation 25^ W. 
 
 The St. Agnes light, Scilly islands, is in latitude 49 53' 37", longitude 
 6 19' 23' West; it is a revolving light, and obscured for a time in each 
 revolution. 
 
 The allowance for variation on entering the British Channel, may be 
 about 26 West, until near the Scilly islands ; 25 in running up to the 
 Isle of Wight, and 24 from thence to Dungeness. In steering up Channel, 
 however, with the ship's head easterly, the west variation will very likely 
 be from 1 to 4 less than the true variation, and the same access of west 
 variation will probably be experienced if the ship's head be to the westward. 
 
 It is an opinion of Captain Flinders, founded on experiment, that the 
 magnetism of the earth, and the attraction of the iron in a ship, acts as a 
 compound force, in producing the error of variation, by the change of a
 
 377 
 
 of a ship's head, and as the error at any direction of the ship's head will 
 be to the error when her head is east or west, at the same dip of the needle, 
 as the sine of the angle between the ship's head and magnetic meridian is 
 to the sine of 8 points or radius. 
 
 Strong south-westerly winds force an accumulation of water into the 
 British channel, and the tides are then much higher than at any other 
 time ; the velocity of the flood is also increased by these winds, and con- 
 tinues an hour or more longer than usual, the ebb being greatly repressed 
 by them ; from which it happens that ships running up channel with a 
 strong S. W. gale, are liable to be ahead of their reckoning, unless a proper 
 allowance is made ; for by entering into the first of the flood, and running 
 at the rate of 8 or 10 knots by the log, they will carry the tide with them 
 10 or 11 hours, which may carry them all the way from the start up to 
 Beachy head, or even to Dungeness. 
 
 If uncertain of your latitude on steering into the channel, you ought to 
 keep well to the southward of the Scilly islands on passing them ; and in 
 the night, or foggy weather, not to shoalen your water less than 60 or 62 
 fathoms ; you will have 70 fathoms yellow or white sand abreast of them 
 to the southward in latitude 49 20'. The light on St. Agnes may be seen 
 at a considerable distance, but there are many dangerous rocks stretching 
 from it for about 5 miles to the W. S. Westward, having very irregular 
 soundings of from 40 to 50 fathoms, about 1 or 2 miles S. W. from them, 
 and a rocky spot with overfalls, shoaling in from 50 to 16 fathoms, about 5 
 miles S. S. W. from them. 
 
 If you should happen to get into latitude 49 25', and running for the chan- 
 nel, and have run so far to the eastward as to shoalen your water to 66, to 65, 
 or 67 fathoms, and the soundings are shells and small yellow stones, or red 
 stones or red sand, you may thence conclude that you are abreast of Scilly ; 
 or if you have 68 fathoms, white sand with gray specks, and sometimes 
 shells and stones, Scilly will then bear about N. E. from you, distance 10 
 leagues. Your soundings will always inform you whether you are to the 
 northward or southward of Scilly. In the latitude and to the northward 
 of Scilly you will find it so oozy and muddy, upon the edge of the ground, 
 that it will very frequently be washed off the lead. The soundings near 
 Scilly are very different from all others in this latitude ; pieces of rotten 
 rock as broad as a small bean, and of a stone colour, will come up with the 
 lead, which will not be the case anywhere else in the same parallel. More 
 to the southward you will have deeper water, with fine sand, interspersed 
 with black specks like ground pepper. Abreast of Scilly, in the latitude 
 of 49 20', you will have 70 fathoms, branny or yellow and white sand ; 
 and, to the eastward of Scilly, in the latitude of 49 8', you will have 56 
 or 58 fathoms, coarse sand. You should then steer more to the northward, 
 and endeavour to make the land about the Lizard ; you may safely make it 
 in the night as well as in the day, if the weather be clear, for the light- 
 houses stand so high, and the coast is so clear, that you may, without 
 danger, come within half a mile of the point. If the weather prove so 
 thick that you cannot safely make the land, come no nearer to the Lizard 
 than 45 fathoms, for, in that depth, you will not be more than three 
 leagues off the point ; your soundings there will be pebble stones and 
 scallop shells. 
 
 The southern point of Little Sole Banks lies at the distance of about 50 
 leagues to the westward of Ushant, in the latitude 48 22', longitude 
 8 50'. They stretch from thence about 1 1 leagues to the N. N. W., and 
 are about 4 leagues in breadth, having a depth of from 60 to 80 fathoms, 
 fino sand. Ushant should not be approached, in foggy weather, nearer 
 
 3 B
 
 378 
 
 than 64 fathoms, as there is a depth of 60 fathoms about 3 leagues from 
 the island. You will have 70 fathoms about 8 leagues west from Ushant ; 
 and at 26 leagues distant, in the same latitude as Ushant, 85 fathoms, and 
 12 leagues further there are 74 fathoms. The ground is of various de- 
 scriptions, but generally gray or brownish sand, with broken shells. The 
 Great Sole Banks are about 5 leagues broad, and the body of them lies in 
 latitude 49, longitude 10, with 60 to 70 fathoms ; on either side there are 
 90 fathoms, fine sand. It is possible, while running along this parallel, 
 you may shoalen your water to about 6 fathoms, and, after deepening to 
 the former depth, find shoal water again, after running 3 or 4 leagues ; but 
 you may be certain of having the channel open when you get in from 90 
 or 65 fathoms, fine sand and black specks, and with this ground you may 
 approach to within the distance of 14 leagues to the S. "W. of Scilly. 
 When you are to the southward of the fair-way, it has generally been 
 observed that the ground is reddish, coarse, and rather stoney, and the sea 
 has a peculiar appearance towards the French coast, from the tide whirling 
 round in many places ; but when in the fair-way, and the channel open, 
 you will have fine light coloured and gray sand, with a depth of from 100 
 to 80 fathoms ; and in 75 and 70 fathoms, brown sand and black specks. 
 After passing the Scilly islands you must steer rather more northerly to 
 make the Lizard, if the wind is favourable ; but in thick foggy weather, or 
 with scant southerly winds, you ought not to approach that point in less 
 than 45 fathoms ; you may then be about 3 leagues off. Close in with the 
 Stag's rocks, that lie off the front of the point, there are from 10 to 12 
 fathoms. As the soundings are from 30 to 40 fathoms, about 2 miles from 
 the point, there will be no danger in approaching within that distance in 
 the day time, and in fine weather in the night. When the two lights are 
 conspicuous they may be made with safety. The advantage of making land 
 about the Lizard is, that you may know how to steer in advancing upwards, 
 if thick weather should come on, and if this land cannot be distinguished, 
 you must endeavour to get a sight of the Eddystone, or the land over the 
 Start point, which is a sloping oblong hill. By not attending to this mode 
 many ships have got over on the French coast, and have been lost ; for 
 there is a strong indraught of the tide between the Coast of France and 
 the Islands of Guernsey and Jersey, which has often proved fatal to ships 
 steering up channel, that have not kept within a proper distance of the 
 English Coast. 
 
 Off the Lizard point the stream of flood runs to the eastward, in mid- 
 channel, until nearly eight hours, at full and change of the moon, and it is 
 then about half ebb on the shore. 
 
 The course and distance from the Lizard to the Start are E. by S. 
 Southerly, about 21 leagues ; and between the Lizard and Eddystone a 
 ship may stand off to 50, and inshore to 42 fathoms, but not nearer, by 
 reason of there being 36 fathoms in the stream of the Eddystone ; but 
 between the Eddystone and the Start you may approach the shore to 32 
 fathoms, and stand off to 46 fathoms. 
 
 The Hand -deeps bear from the Eddystone N. N. W. W., 3 miles ; and 
 the East Ruts E. by S. J S., 11 miles. 
 
 From the Start to the Bill of Portland the course and distance are 
 E. ^ S., 16 leagues ; but, from the Start, a course must be pursued as 
 circumstances render most advisable, borrowing towards the English Coast, 
 with northerly winds, or keeping near mid-channel, with S. and S. W. 
 winds ; and, should you have passed the Start, at the distance of about 4 
 leagues, it will be proper, with a fair wind, to steer an E. by S. course, 
 which will, in general, carry a ship direct up until abreast of Beachy
 
 379 
 
 Head,* which a large ship ought not to approach nearer than 18 fathoms, 
 on account of the shoals that lie to the S. E. and Eastward of it. After 
 clearing these you must haul up E. and E. N. E. for Dungeness, by which 
 the Ridge and Varne will be avoided in proceeding towards the South 
 Foreland. 
 
 As the weather in the channel is frequently thick and foggy, too much 
 caution cannot be used, particularly with variable winds ; you may keep 
 in from 30 to 36 fathoms between the Start and the Bill of Portland, and, 
 by not exceeding this depth, you will avoid the strong indraught, before 
 noticed, between Guernsey, Jersey, and the French Coast, and their con- 
 tiguous dangers. The flood of the Bill of Portland runs to the eastward, 
 until a quarter past 10, at full and change. Care must be taken not to 
 approach the Race and Shambles in less than 26 fathoms, for the water 
 suddenly deepens to 40 fathoms, and more in some holes near the Race, 
 with a rocky bottom, very uneven. In thick weather the lead ought to be 
 kept going, particularly in approaching the Isle of Wight, for many ships 
 have been lost by omitting it. Between the Bill of Portland and Dunnose, 
 35 to 26 fathoms are proper depths to keep in, with a N. W. or Northerly 
 wind, and by not getting into less than 26 fathoms the indraught towards 
 the Needles, &c., will be avoided. The flood runs to the eastward of 
 Dunnose, in mid-channel, until about eleven hours, full and change, and 
 two hours earlier on the shore it is high water. 
 
 Off the south part of the Isle of Wight the ground is rocky and uneven, 
 with strong riplings during spring tides, and therefore a good offing should 
 be kept. 
 
 From Dunnose to the Owers the shore may be approached to within 20 
 or 22 fathoms, and you may stand off to 30 fathoms : if it should be thick 
 weather, and light winds, when near the Owers, the lead ought to be used, 
 because the last quarter flood, and the whole of the ebb, sets strong over 
 the Owers bank towards St. Helen's road, and there are 20 fathoms very 
 near it. Eastward of the Owers lies the Kingsmore shoal, extending N. E. 
 and S. W. about 2 miles, having about 6 fathoms, hard gravel, on its S. E. 
 point, which is the least water. 
 
 The depths proper to preserve between the Owers and Beachy head 
 are from 20 to 18 fathoms, and, by not borrowing under 18 fathoms, you 
 will pass outside the Royal Sovereign shoals, the outermost of which is 
 called the Wide-mouth shoal, being of a circular form, about 500 feet in 
 diameter, with 12 or 13 feet on it at low water, spring tides. To avoid it, 
 when round Beachy head, look out for a spot called Greenland, which keep 
 open with the Bluff head, and steer E. by N., by compass : by this you will 
 fetch Dungeness lighthouse. Another patch, with 4 fathoms on it, is 
 reported to be E. S. E. f S., 6^ miles from Beachy head, and about 1 mile 
 outside of the former. The Horse of Willingdon lies within them. Off 
 Beachy head the flood runs to the eastward, until three-quarters past 11. 
 There is much safer anchorage in hard blue clay, and better riding here 
 than at Dungeness ; the mark is to bring either of the three windmills on 
 with the sea houses, at East Bourne. From the shoals off Beachy head to 
 
 * A LIGHTHOUSE is now erected on Beachy Head, which exhibits a revolving light every 
 night from sunset to sunrise. The light burns at an elevation of about 285 feet above the level 
 of the sea, on a spot called Belle Toute, being the summit of the second cliff to the westward 
 of Beachy Head, and exhibits its greatest brilliancy once in two minutes. Ships sailing from 
 the .eastward open the light when bearing N.W. \ W. Westerly; and, whether going up or down 
 channel, when to the eastward of Beachy Head,- and within 3 leagues of it, by keeping the light 
 open, will pass to the southward of the Southern Head, and all other shoals in its vicinity.
 
 380 
 
 Dungeness you may stand in to 12 fathoms, and off to 20 ; and by not 
 coming under 12 fathoms, you will pass clear outside the shoals which lie 
 to the east and west of Dungeness : here the meeting of the tides takes 
 place. From Dungeness a ship should not stand further off than 17 or 18 
 fathoms, on account of the Varne, nor less than 12 fathoms towards the 
 shore, until clear of the ledge of rocks that project above a mile from the 
 shore, to the westward of Folkstone. After getting to the eastward of this 
 ledge you may safely approach to within 10 fathoms ; and, by keeping 
 within three miles of the shore, in passing from Folkstone to Dover, the 
 Varne and Ridge will be avoided. From Dover road towards the Downs 
 17 fathoms will carry a ship outside of the South Sand Head, while the 
 track of 15 fathoms will lead directly on it, and 12 or 13 will carry within 
 it ; but, in consequence of the South Foreland being steep-to, many ships 
 in the night have run upon the shore, in thick foggy weather, for fear of 
 getting near the Goodwin. However, if the South Foreland lights are 
 seen, by keeping them in sight, from the deck, over the land, there need be 
 no fear of getting upon the main; but you ought not to come under 10 or 
 1 1 fathoms, off the pitch of the Foreland, because you will only be about 
 half a mile from the shore, which is steep, in from 10 to 6 fathoms, and in 
 these depths a ship might ground on the rocks, before another cast of the 
 lead could be got. 
 
 If the weather should be so thick as to prevent the lights being seen, it 
 is certainly most advisable to borrow near the main, rather than venture 
 near the Goodwin ; but, as the soundings are not a sure guide, great 
 caution must be used, for you will find the depths to decrease towards the 
 South Sand Head, as well as towards the main. The best plan is to keep 
 along the shore, in about 1 2 fathoms, under easy sail, so as to enable you 
 to get exact soundings ; and, when round the pitch of the Foreland, it 
 will be advisable to haul up well to the northward, until a cast of 9 or 8 
 fathoms is got, so that you may be certain the decrease of depth is towards 
 the main ; but, in doing this, you must heave the lead quick, and not 
 borrow under 8 fathoms towards the shore, until you anchor in the Downs. 
 
 TO THE SENEGAL AND BACK.* 
 
 OUTWARDS. Whatever may be the season of the year at which vessels 
 sail for the Senegal, it is advisable to get twenty-five leagues to the west- 
 ward of Cape Finisterre ; from hence it is immaterial whether a course be 
 shaped to the eastward or westward of Madeira. A vessel desirous of 
 touching at the Canaries will adopt the former, and will shape a course for 
 Teneriffe, having nothing to apprehend but the Salvages, the position of 
 which has been frequently well determined. There is no danger, under 
 water, yet known of in the Archipelago of the Canaries ; the winds are 
 mostly from N. to N. E., and vessels are seldom becalmed amongst these 
 islands so much as to retard them in their voyage materially. If the course 
 to the westward of Madeira be adopted, a vessel will only make the 
 westernmost of the Canaries, and her place may be rectified by Palma 
 or Ferro. 
 
 The information which has been before given in this work, on the Coast 
 
 * Taken from the observations of Baron Roussin. The courses are corrected by the 
 Magnetic Variation, and consequently reckoned from the true North.
 
 381 
 
 of Africa, explains every thing which these points possess, of a nature in- 
 teresting to the navigator ; and by means thereof a vessel may steer for 
 any particular point of the coast. 
 
 A sight of the Coast of Africa, however, is by no means necessary for 
 vessels bound to the Senegal or Goree. What has been said of the currents 
 and prevailing winds in this navigation, leaves no doubt that it is perfectly 
 useless to make the land more than fifteen or twenty leagues to the 
 northward of the Senegal, when bound to the bar anchorage. This digres- 
 sion is the utmost which should be made from the above course, and by 
 means of the lead, and some few latitudes carefully observed, it might even 
 be made a direct one. On leaving Teneriffe, the true course should be 
 S. by W. I W., as far as the parallel of 21, then South as far as 20, and 
 from thence steer S. E. by S., without any further alteration. 
 
 The first course will carry a vessel more than twenty-five leagues from 
 the nearest point on the African Coast, and in a track where no danger has; 
 hitherto been found. The second will conduct her twenty-six leagues to 
 the westward of the westernmost point of the bank of Arguin. By the third 
 she will make the coast in the neighbourhood of the Marigot of the Mus- 
 quitoes ; from whence she may coast the shore until abreast of the Senegal. 
 
 If it be found necessary to make the land during the night, the lead 
 being the only means of correcting the estimated run, should be used more 
 frequently and with greater care. At about ten leagues from the shore to 
 the northward of the Senegal, a bottom of white sand will be found with 
 seventy fathoms. From thence the depth gradually decreases towards the 
 shore, and at one mile from it there are seven or eight fathoms. When in 
 fifteen fathoms water, it is advisable to anchor until daylight, to avoid run- 
 ing past the bar, which has no mark for indicating it during the night. 
 
 If a vessel should make a point on the African Coast, to the northward of 
 the bank of Arguin, for instance, Cape Blanco, and starting at three leagues 
 therefrom, by steering true S. W. by S., and sounding until on the parallel 
 of 20, which is a little to the southward of the western point of the bank 
 of Arguin, she will then be about twelve leagues outside of this bank, 
 and in soundings from eighty to one hundred fathoms, fine sandy bottom. 
 But I must repeat, that in voyages to the Senegal, a sight of the land to 
 the northward of the Marigot is absolutely useless. In the navigation of 
 the African Coast, there is a source of error attached to it, which should be 
 carefully guarded against. It is the optical illusion caused by the great 
 horizontal refraction, which renders any correct estimation of distance 
 almost impossible. Numerous instances of it might be cited, which would 
 hardly be credited, therefore the moment the coast is seen, the lead only 
 should be trusted, to determine the distance from it. 
 
 SENEGAL TO GOREE. The Almadies are thirty-one leagues S. 
 4-0 W., from the Roadstead of the Senegal, and the prevailing currents set 
 nearly on that bearing ; it is therefore the course to be steered from the 
 Senegal to Cape Verd during the day. During the night a vessel should 
 steer a quarter of a point more to the westward. From Cape Verd to 
 Goree the course is direct. A vessel is merely required to coast the shore 
 at a distance of two miles. 
 
 HOMEWARDS. The voyage from the Senegal presents no difficulty, 
 and calls for no other precautions than those commonly used by all navi- 
 gators in long voyages, on seas void of dangers. These precautions are, not 
 to trifle with the wind, but rather to make a good run in a given time, 
 than to endeavour to make good the proposed course. In all return 
 voyages from places within the Tropics, the grand point is to leave the 
 region of the trade-winds, and get into the variables, and the currents
 
 382 
 
 setting to the eastward, as soon as possible. As the winds generally blow 
 from E. to N. W. on the Coast of Africa, from the month of December to 
 the end of June, a vessel should keep on the starboard tack until out of 
 their influence. The course made good will be about N. "W. and she will 
 then be in the neighbourhood of the Azores. It is immaterial whether she 
 passes to the northward or through the channels of these islands, but it is 
 remarked that the winds are stronger to the westward. It is seldom possible 
 to pass to the eastward of them. The distance no doubt would be shortened, 
 but this passage can only be effected by keeping close to the wind thus far, 
 and experience has proved that there is little to be gained from that. Be- 
 tween June and October, after the squalls from the S. E., the wind 
 occasionally veers round to the West, on the coast near the Senegal ; and 
 sometimes it is possible to get within sight of Cape Mirik by means of this 
 wind, and by keeping along shore on the larboard tack. 
 
 TO AND FROM THE WEST INDIES. 
 
 VESSELS bound to the West Indies, or southern parts of the United States 
 of America, are directed to pursue their course to the westward of Cape 
 Finisterre, agreeable to the instructions already given ; passing Madeira the 
 best course is S. S. W. to gain the trade-winds as quickly as possible, and 
 afterwards proceed to the westward towards your port of destination. SHIPS 
 BOUND TO JAMAICA commonly sail between Montserrat and Guadaloupe and 
 proceed for the high peaked rock, called Alto Vela, 5 leagues from Beata 
 point, the most southern extremity of St. Domingo ; in sailing hence to 
 Jamaica be cautious of running too far north, lest you get on Morant point 
 (the easternmost point of Jamaica) which is extremely low. In thick hazy 
 weather it may possibly be approached so near as to make it difficult to 
 weather, the wind setting right on and the current always going to leeward. 
 Keep therefore, if possible, in about the parallel of 17f N., and you will 
 run without danger for Yallah's point (see our new chart of Jamaica) where 
 pilots may be obtained for Port Royal. 
 
 LEAVING JAMAICA in the months of October and March, while north 
 winds prevail in the Gulf of Florida, the general route for vessels bound to 
 Europe is through the windward channel, but at other periods the speediest 
 passage is considered through the Channel of Yucantan, and having the 
 Gulf Stream in your favour, sail through the Strait of Florida. Having 
 cleared the strait, the best track, in summer, is to the northward .of the 
 Bermudas within the influence of the stream, crossing the tail of the Banks 
 of Newfoundland, and so proceed for the English channel to the northward 
 of the Azores. In winter, when north-westerly gales may be expected from 
 the coasts of America, it is better to pass to the southward of the Bermudas, 
 in about the parallel of 30 N., until you get to the eastward of them, when 
 you may gradually increase your latitude to 35 or 36, but not higher, 
 until you reach within a few degrees of the Azores. 
 
 TO NORTH AMERICA, NOVA SCOTIA, NEWFOUNDLAND, &c. 
 
 VESSELS BOUND TO THE UNITED STATES, &c., should keep a 
 north-westerly course, until they gain considerably to the westward ; by 
 this route the winds will be more favourable than in a more southerly
 
 383 
 
 latitude, and ultimately wind and current will prove to your advantage. 
 We would therefore recommend, during the spring of the year, to keep in 
 about the parallel of 46 or 47, until you reach the meridian of about 37 
 "W. ; you may then gradually incline to the southward as far as 43 N., 
 in which parallel you should endeavour to keep, until you reach Cape 
 Sable, passing to the southward of Sable island at the distance of 60 miles. 
 In the autumn or fall of the year vessels should get as far north as 50 or 
 55, and having reached the longitude of 30 W. edge to the southward, 
 and proceed as already directed. 
 
 SHIPS BOUND TO THE GULF OF ST. LAURENCE. Endeavour 
 to strike soundings on the Great Bank of Newfoundland, about the la- 
 titude of 46 and between the longitudes of 49 and 52 W. ; when having 
 passed the meridian of Cape Race and reached the longitude of 53 W., a 
 N. W. by W. course will carry them clear of St. Peter's island, and direct- 
 ly to the North cape of the Island of Breton. The North cape and Cape 
 Ray, the south-west point of Newfoundland, form the two points of 
 entrance to the Gulf of St. Laurence ; they lie E. N. E. ^ E. and "W. S. 
 "W. "W., distant 18^ leagues from each other. Between them and about 
 4 leagues E. N. E. ^ E. from Cape North, is the little island of St. Paul, 
 appearing with three hills upon it and deep water all round ; but about 1 1 
 or 12 miles N. N. Westward from the island is a fishing bank of 25 and 
 30 fathoms water, while at nearly the same distance from the island, in a 
 N. N. E. direction, are 140 and further east 186 fathoms. Cape Ray 
 bears from St. Paul's island E. S. E. \ E., distant 14 leagues. 
 
 After passing the islands of Miquelon and St. Peter's, endeavour to steer 
 a middle course between Newfoundland and Breton, passing on either side 
 of St. Paul's island, but by no means run beyond the. parallel of 47 33' N. 
 until well passed Cape Ray, for the harbours on the south coast of New- 
 foundland, to the west of Fortune island, are full of dangers, and but im- 
 perfectly known; while the whole shore is frequently enveloped in thick 
 fogs, and the rocks cannot then be perceived before your vessel has got 
 irrecoverably entangled among them. In this part also shifts of wind are 
 common, and it will often happen that after blowing a gale from one point 
 of the compass it will suddenly vary to the opposite point and continue 
 equally strong : thus it has been known that while one vessel has been 
 lying-to with a heavy gale, another, not more than 30 leagues distant, has 
 been in another gale equally heavy, but with the wind in a direct contrary 
 direction. The winds within the Gulf are not so liable to such sudden 
 changes as on the outside, or to the eastward of Breton island. 
 
 ST. PATJL is not a dangerous island, and may easily be discovered even in 
 foggy weather, by keeping a good look-out; its shores are high, and al- 
 though fogs do frequently obscure the land, yet it will in general be seen in 
 time to avoid danger. The Magdalen islands extend in an E. N. E. and 
 W. S. W. direction. There are no harbours, and you must give their N. 
 E. extremity a berth of two miles, on account of a reef which runs out 
 from it ; in approaching towards them you must avoid the Pearls' ledge, 
 of only 15 feet water, which lies with the south-eastern extremity of Entry 
 island, bearing S. W. by W. ^ W., distant 5 miles. 
 
 The BIRD ISLANDS are small and not far asunder ; they are moderately 
 high, flat at top, and have a white appearance. The southern one is the 
 largest, and from its eastern end a ridge of rocks runs out ; in the passage 
 between them there is also a rocky ledge. Brion, or Cross island, lies W. 
 by N., distant 4 leagues from the Bird islands, and N. f E. about 10 miles 
 from the N. E. end of the Magdalen islands, being 5 miles long and very nar- 
 row. The depth of water between the Bird islands and Brion is from 4 to
 
 384 
 
 14 fathoms; the N. E. end is bold-to, and there is no danger in the chan- 
 nel ; but off the S. "W. end there is a ledge of rocks even with the water's 
 edge; between Brion and Magdalen islands are 10, 11, and 12, fathoms. 
 
 It was formerly generally considered that beyond the Magdalen islands 
 all was deep water, but it is now asserted that a bank lies to the north- 
 ward, having soundings upon it. In sailing from the Magdalen and Bird 
 islands, you will, after you have passed this bank, drop into deeper water, 
 and lose your soundings until you get near to Cape Rosier. 
 
 Having entered the Gulf of St. Laurence you will seldom fail to see the 
 Magdalen and Bird islands, as they must be passed in the route towards 
 the river. It will be better, in thick weather particularly, to go either to 
 the eastward and northward of these between them and Newfoundland, or 
 to the southward and westward between them and Prince Edward's 
 island ; for, although in fine clear weather, there is a good and safe passage 
 between the Bird and Magdalen islands, yet when it is dark and foggy 
 the channel will not be so easily distinguished, and perhaps might be mis- 
 taken and attended with danger. The weather to the southward of the 
 Magdalen, and between them and Prince Edward's island, is generally much 
 clearer than to the northward, therefore the passage that way is to be pre- 
 ferred, particularly after the early part of the year, for then south-westerly 
 winds are most prevalent ; and, also if necessary, clear and good anchorage 
 is to be had at the south-eastern part of the Magdalens in Pleasant bay, 
 very near the shore : this is a safe place for vessels to ride in with westerly 
 winds, and is more to be recommended than to hazard the beating about 
 in the Gulf with a foul wind ; the passage into it is safe, and runs in be- 
 tween Amherst and Entry islands. 
 
 CURRENTS. Vessels navigating the coast of Breton island, and particularly 
 those which having crossed the Great Bank, and are steering for the Gulf, 
 should be particularly careful to make a proper allowance for a strong cur- 
 rent, which commonly sets S. by W. and S. S. W., about 3 miles an hour, and 
 sometimes 4, by which the unwary mariner will be greatly deceived ; for 
 while he is considering himself in a fairway for the entrance of the Gulf, he 
 will be drifted upon the iron-bound shore, the attendant fogs in summer time 
 concealing his dangers, until it becomes too late for him to avoid destruction. 
 To persons who may unfortunately be driven too near this coast, it may be 
 serviceable to be apprized that a settlement is formed at Asphee bay, and 
 good anchorage is to be had behind the island, where boats can land, and 
 water and provisions be obtained ; while, for want of the knowledge of such 
 an establishment, many have been obliged to endure both hunger and 
 fatigue unrelieved. 
 
 To ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND. Vessels bound to St. John's 
 should keep in the parallel of about 46 N., and having reached the outer 
 edge of the Great Bank, and obtained soundings in the meridian of 48^ or 
 49 W., should steer N. westward for Cape Spear, which lies in latitude 
 47 30' 53' N., longitude 52 33' 27' W. Between the cape and St. John's 
 are three bays ; the first called Cape Bay, lies between the cape and Black 
 Head ; the second, Deadman's bay, between the head and Small Point ; 
 and the third, Freshwater bay, between Small point and Fort Amherst. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S has a narrow entrance, but the harbour is excellent ; its 
 situation is readily known by the Blockhouse, built on Signal hill, at the 
 north side, and Fort Amherst on its south head, or point of entrance. The 
 channel from point to point is only 360 fathoms wide, but it gets wider 
 just within the points than between them, decreasing again as you approach 
 the Chain rock, for from the latter to the Pancake rock the distance is only 
 95 fathoms ; both these rocks are above water and steep-to.
 
 385 
 
 Care must be taken in approaching the harbour in a large vessel, to 
 avoid the Vestal Rock, which lies about 50 fathoms off the southern or 
 Fort Amherst point ; over this rock are 25 feet water ; the marks for it are 
 Fort William or the Old Garrison just open of the south head, and the 
 outer Wash Ball rock open to the eastward of the Cuckold's head ; these 
 latter rocks lie close to the northern point of the harbour, and are always 
 above water, being steep-to, and therefore not dangerous. The course in is 
 N. W. by W.j the shores continuing bold until you get near to the Pancake, 
 then give the south side a small berth, continue the same course or rather 
 more inclined to the westward, keeping Fort Amherst flagstaff open to the 
 northward of Frederick's battery flagstaff; you will by these means avoid 
 the Prosser, a rock on the larboard side running off the end of another rock, 
 formed like a saddle, with 18 feet water in the hollow, and only 5 feet on 
 its outside ; yet it is steep-to, having not less than 5 fathoms close to it : 
 so soon as you are within, and have passed the Prosser rocks, you may 
 steer up as you please, both shores being clear of dangers, and anchor in 
 from 4 to 10 fathoms water, on a bottom of mud, and lying quite 
 landlocked. 
 
 The winds from the S. W. to the southward, as far as N. E. by E. blow 
 in ; all other directions of the wind either baffle or blow out of the Narrows ; 
 with the latter winds you must warp in, for the convenience of doing 
 which, rings are fixed in the rocks on each side ; the anchorage within 
 the Narrows has from 10 to 16 fathoms, and a little before you enter the 
 Narrows there are 20 fathoms. The tides rise 6, 7, and 8 feet, but very 
 irregular, being much influenced by the winds. The VARIATION is about 
 2 points W. 
 
 TO HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA. Vessels bound to Halifax should 
 pay particular attention to their soundings, especially about the neigh- 
 bourhood of Sable island, as the island is low and appears like a small sand 
 hillock. In summer it is frequently enveloped with a fog, but you may 
 discover your proximity to it, by the depth of water ; dangerous bars pro- 
 ject from its N. E. and N. W. ends, therefore, observe, that, except on these 
 sides, you will have 2 fathoms at the distance of 2 cables' off, your depth 
 increasing at a general rate of about 2 fathoms for every mile until you are 
 more than 20 miles from it. 
 
 Making the land of Nova Scotia, about Cape Sable, you must be particu- 
 larly careful to avoid Seal Island Rocks, and the Brazil Rock. To the 
 westward of Great Seal island the soundings are very irregular for upwards 
 of 20 miles, at which distance are 45 fathoms, gravel and stones. Indeed 
 the soundings along Nova Scotia from Cape Canso to Cape Sable, partake 
 of the same irregularity from 25 to 50 fathoms, therefore you should not 
 come nearer to the land than 35 fathoms, unless you are well assured of the 
 exact part you are in, for otherwise endeavouring to enter Halifax you may 
 be driven into Mahone or Mecklenburgh bays, and be caught by S. E. winds. 
 The weather is generally foggy 4 or 6 leagues off shore, both in spring and 
 summer, but it becomes clearer as you get nearer the coast, and with the 
 wind off the land it will be perfectly clear. Your approach and arrival 
 into soundings may generally be known by the increasing coldness of the 
 water. 
 
 As you approach the harbour of Halifax, you will perceive the coast 
 about its environs, particularly to the southward, to be ragged and rocky, 
 with patches of withered wood scattered about ; but the land is rather low 
 in general, and not visible 20 miles off; with the exception of Le Have 
 and Aspotogon, which may be seen 9 leagues. The latter have a long level 
 appearance, and when they bear N. distant 6 leagues, an E. N. E. course 
 
 3c
 
 386 
 
 will carry yon to Sambro lighthouse, which stands on Sambro island, and is 
 rendered remarkable by being a high tower 210 feet high. 
 
 Having made the lighthouse and coming from the westward, at night 
 with a westerly wind, the light being 7 or 8 miles off, steer E. N. E. or 
 E. by N. until you have passed the S. W ledges, and the lighthouse bears 
 N. ; then run on N. E. or N. E. by N. until you bring it to bear N. W., 
 and then steer N. N. E. or N. E. by N. till it bears W. N. W., and, as the 
 wind may answer, haul up N. or N. by E. for Chebucto head, avoiding 
 the Bell Rock, which lies S. by W. ^ "W., distant three-quarters of a mile 
 from that point. 
 
 Chebucto head is bold to within half a mile from the shore ; run on north 
 along the west shore for Sandwich point, which is also bold : you will thus 
 pass the Lichfield rock on your larboard side, distinguished by a buoy 
 placed on its eastern end. A mile to the northward of the Lichfield is 
 Mar's rock marked by another buoy, and also left on the larboard. When 
 abreast of Sandwich point get as near mid-channel as you can, for on the 
 opposite side is the Horse Shore, a dangerous shelf which stretches out from 
 Manger's beach, and, having passed it, edge over towards Mac Nab's island. 
 Reid s rock is marked by a buoy, and lies mid-way between Mac Nab's 
 island and Point Pleasant shoals, also distinguished by a buoy, rather more 
 than half a mile further on the same side, and this with Reid's rock are to 
 be left on the larboard hand. On the opposite, or starboard side, there is 
 a red buoy, placed upon the spit which runs off Mac Nab's island ; sail 
 between the two latter buoys, and having passed the reef, steer directly 
 north for George's island, which you may pass on either side, and run up 
 for, and abreast of, the town of Halifax, when you will find anchorage in 9 
 and 10 fathoms, muddy ground, two cables' length east of the mooring 
 buoys, near enough to throw your hawser on shore. Between Manger's 
 beach and Point Pleasant shoal there is a middle ground, which is some- 
 times distinguished by a buoy, but it has not less than 5 fathoms. 
 
 HALIFAX HARBOUR is sufficiently large to accommodate any quantity of 
 shipping in perfect safety; its direction lies nearly N. and S., about 16 
 miles in length, terminating in Bedford basin, which is an extensive sheet 
 of water, containing 10 square miles of safe anchorage. 
 
 TO THE BAY OF FUNDY. If you are off Cape Sable with a 
 westerly wind, and bound to the bay of Fundy, it is advisable to make for 
 the coast somewhere about the Skuttock hills, or Tit Manan lighthouse, as 
 you can with greater safety pass to the westward than to the eastward. 
 Between Grand Manan and the main the passage is free from danger ; 
 vessels beating through generally stand from side to side, particularly 
 during the fogs, the depth being from 12 to 70 fathoms, with a bold shore 
 on each side, and the tide through, strong and regular. The Wolves may 
 be passed on either side, having deep water close to them ; but they afford 
 no sheltered anchorage, except for small fishing vessels in summer time ; 
 they are from 60 to 100 feet high. "With light winds, a lee tide, or thick 
 weather, you may let go an anchor anywhere betweeen the Wolves and 
 Beaver harbour, in good holding ground, with a depth of 20 and 25 
 fathoms. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S, NEW BRUNSWICK. Point Lepreau is bold-to, but dangerous 
 in dark weather, as it projects so far out to seaward; but from thence to 
 St. John's the course is free from danger. 
 
 The entrance to St. John's is distinguished by a lighthouse, which stands 
 on Partridge island. Vessels making for the harbour, so soon as they can 
 well discern the light, should make the signal for a pilot. If unable to 
 reach the harbour that tide, endeavour to run in between Meagenes island
 
 387 
 
 and the main, either on the north or south side of that island ; in doing 
 this you will nowhere have less than 4, 5, and 6 fathoms water, bottom of 
 sand and mud. Here you will obtain the best anchorage by bringing the 
 three hills in the country, to the N. E., in a line over Rocky point island, 
 and the house on Meagenes island S. E. by S. Proceeding for the harbour, 
 and having passed Meagenes island, edge inshore towards Rocky point, 
 until you perceive Meagenes point in a line with, or over the N. W. corner 
 of Meagenes island ; then sailing in between Rocky point and Partridge 
 island these marks on will lead in the deepest water over the bar, until you 
 open Point Maspeck, to the northward of the low point of Partridge 
 island, when, putting the helm starboard, you should edge over towards 
 Thompson's point, until you get the red store, at the south end of St. 
 John's, in a line over the beacon. Keep the latter mark on until you pass 
 the beacon, at the distance of a ship's breadth, then haul up N. N. W. for 
 the harbour, keeping the block-house, at the upper part of the harbour, 
 open to the westward of the King's store, this wiJJ lead you in mid-channel 
 to the wharfs, where you may lie aground, dry at half tide ; or you may 
 ride afloat in the stream, at single anchor, with a hawser fastened to a 
 post on shore. 
 
 CHANNEL BETWEEN MANAN AND BRIER'S ISLANDS. Some caution will 
 be necessary in steering between Grand Manan and Brier's islands in thick 
 weather, as vessels are frequently drawn in among the islands and ledges 
 to the southward of Manan, by the flood setting directly upon them ; the 
 most dangerous of these is the Old Proprietor, which, at low water, dries 
 for the space of half an acre. When the wind, therefore, veers at all to the 
 southward make the best of your way to St. John's ; or you may secure 
 an anchorage in Grand Passage, or St. Mary's bay, as it seldom blows in 
 that direction above 18 hours without bringing on a fog. There is no 
 difficulty in going through ANNAPOLIS GUT if you have but a commanding 
 breeze, although the tide is very rapid, the flood and ebb running five 
 knots an hour, and the eddies strong; about one-third through lies the 
 Man-of- War Rock, about a cable's length from the eastern shore ; therefore, 
 if you keep in mid-channel you are sure to clear it. 
 
 The prevailing winds here, as in general on the coast of Nova Scotia, 
 are from W. S. W. to S. W., nearly as steady as trade- winds, except during 
 the summer months, when they become rather more southerly, accompanied 
 with but little intermission of fog, which requires a N. Westerly wind to 
 disperse. It is, therefore, recommended not to leave an anchorage without 
 making proper arrangements for reaching another before dark, or the 
 appearance of a fog coming on, which, with a S. W. wind, is so sudden 
 that you become enveloped within it unawares ; neither should you keep 
 the sea at night, if you can possibly avoid it. Observe, whenever the wind 
 blows directly off the land the fog will soon disperse. 
 
 CAPE COD TO BOSTON. There is a lighthouse erected at the Clay 
 Ponds on Cape Cod, which exhibits a fixed light ; it stands on elevated 
 land, 150 feet high, which with the elevation of the lantern makes it 200 
 feet above high water mark. There is a new lighthouse also on the Race 
 point, which shows a revolving light, and is therefore readily known from 
 the other. Cape Cod is low sandy land ; but Race point is very bold, and 
 may be known by a number of fish-houses on it. If bound to Boston, and 
 you want to fall in with Cape Cod, bring the light to bear S. W., 2 leagues 
 distant, and then steer W. N. W. for Boston lighthouse ; this stands on a 
 small island, at the north side of the entrance of the channel, and is 82 feet 
 high. In departing from Cape Cod you must calculate the tide, as the 
 flood sets strongly to the S. W. Leaving Boston, your course to Cape
 
 388 
 
 Cod is E. S. E., 13 leagues ; and when within 2 leagues of the lighthouse, 
 which is 9 miles further, and having brought it to bear S. W. you may 
 steer to the S. E. 
 
 BANKS IN THE BAY OF FUNDY. CASHE'S LEDGE lies directly 
 opposite to Massachuset's bay, in a right line between Machias bay and 
 Cape Cod ; it lies N. and S., 7 leagues, and E. and W., 2 leagues. The 
 shoal est ground is in the centre, the length and breadth of which are about 
 half a mile ; it is exceedingly rocky, having 10 fathoms in some places, and 
 only 4jj in other parts; in one spot there are only 2 fathoms. In general 
 upon the bank the bottom is sand and ooze, with black stones and broken 
 shells, till you get in 25 or 30 fathoms; it then becomes rocky. The 
 current sets exceedingly strong and irregular, sometimes running all round 
 the compass in less than an hour. 
 
 JEFFERY'S BANK. This is an extensive deep water bank of 30 to 60 
 fathoms, 16 leagues in length, N. E. and S. W., and 3 leagues in breadth; 
 it commences about 7 or 8 miles to the southward of Mount Desert rock, 
 and extends to about the longitude of 68 45' W. Outside of the bank 
 the water deepens to 70 and 80 fathoms ; and between it and the main 
 are 70, 60, and 55 fathoms. There is no danger whatever on Jeffery's 
 bank. ST. GEORGE'S BANK has already been described in a preceding 
 section, agreeable to the last survey made by Captain Isaac Hall. 
 
 VESSELS BOUND TO NEW YORK, &c., in passing the shoal 
 grounds on George's bank, should pass between them and the Florida 
 stream, and should also keep between it and the Nantucket shoals : this 
 precaution will shorten the passage, as you will have the advantage of the 
 eddy current running contrary to the stream. Sandy Hook on the south 
 side of the entrance to New York harbour is distinguished by a lighthouse, 
 exhibiting a fixed light ; on the False Hook, some distance to the northward 
 of it, are also two beacons, serving, when illuminated, as a low light in 
 the night. The entrance lies between Sandy Hook and the east bank, 
 or shoal, that extends from the S. W. part of Long island ; a bar extends 
 wholly across it, the deepest water over which are 85 and 3 fathoms, be- 
 tween the white and black buoys, which lie 2| miles to the E. N. E. of 
 the lighthouse. 
 
 The Highlands of Neversink are a good mark to find the entrance of 
 New York by day ; they lie on the south side of the harbour, and may be 
 seen 8 leagues off, from a depth of 30 fathoms. They appear at first like 
 an island, rather level at the top, with some irregular risings towards Point 
 Comfort on the west or inland side. Having made this part of the coast, 
 you may run boldly within 3 miles of the beach, and in steering along to 
 the northward, observe to keep in about 8 fathoms water until you get the 
 lighthouse to bear W. 4 N., then if you have the round hill called Mount 
 Pleasant, some distance within New Jersey in one with the land, about a 
 quarter of a mile to the southward of the lighthouse you may pass the bar. 
 Steer in W. by N. until you are over it, leaving the white buoy on the 
 starboard side ; you will here have 3% fathoms, and when over will get into 
 4| or 5 fathoms. Giving Sandy Hook a berth of about half a mile you 
 will have 5 and 6 fathoms. Bringing the point, on which the beacons stand, 
 to bear S. S. E. you may haul to the southward round the Hook, and 
 come-to in five fathoms, the Hook bearing E. to N. E., distant 1 or 2 miles. 
 
 TO PHILADELPHIA. Having brought the lighthouse on Sandy 
 Hook to bear W. N. W., steer E. S. E. 2 leagues, S. S. E. 4 leagues, and 
 then S. S. W. about 5 leagues. This will take you abreast of Barnigate 
 inlet, when there is a shoal extending 3 miles from the beach, which is steep- 
 to, and may be passed in 6 fathoms, a pistol-shot from the outer breaker ;
 
 389 
 
 if in the night, it is recommended not to get into less than 9 or 10 fathoms. 
 A S. TV. by S. course, 9 leagues, takes you abreast of Great Egg harbour, 
 which has a shoal bank off its south-side of only 6 feet water, extending a 
 league from shore, and from thence, steer S. TV. ^ TV. 9| leagues to Cape 
 May, the north point of the entrance of the Delaware. 
 
 Cape May is distinguished by a lighthouse, 75 feet above the level of 
 the sea; it exhibits a revolving light which may be seen 9 or 10 leagues; 
 when at the distance of 7 or 8 leagues, the time of darkness will be twice 
 to that of light ; as you approach it, the time of darkness will decrease, 
 and that of light increase, until you get within 3 leagues of it, when the 
 light will not wholly disappear, but the greatest power of light will be to 
 the least as 24 to 1. The lighthouse on Cape James, or Henlopen, on 
 the south side of the entrance, has a regular fixed light ; it is of an 
 octagonal form, handsomely built of stone, 100 feet, and the ground on 
 which it is erected is nearly as much above the level of the sea ; it is lighted 
 with 8 lamps, and may be seen 10 leagues off in clear weather. There is 
 a beacon light on Cape Henlopen, about a mile from the great light in the 
 sea, which was first lit in 1825. The two lights in one is the leading mark 
 to carry vessels into the roads. Cape Henlopen is distant 5 leagues from 
 Cape May. The greatest danger about the entrance of the Delaware, is 
 the Cape May bank which is now distinguished by a Light Vessel moored 
 off the S. TV. side in 7 5 fathoms, Cape May lighthouse bearing 20 30' 
 N., distant 15j miles. The centre of the shoalest ground, on which is 
 found 14. feet water, bears N. 28 E. from the light vessel 2f miles; it ex- 
 tends N. by E. 5 E. and S. by TV. ^ TV. three-quarters of a mile, and is 
 half a mile in breadth, and very bold on its eastern edge; as there are 12 
 fathoms half a mile to the eastward of the shoal water, vessels coming 
 from the northward should not run for the light ship while bearing between 
 N. 14 E. and N. 41 E. South-east three-quarters of a mile from the 
 vessels there are 5 fathoms water. 
 
 Vessels entering the Deleware from Cape Henlopen should bring the light- 
 house TV., and run for it until within two miles, when you will have 14 to 
 16 fathoms water, although at 5 leagues E. from the Cape there are only 6 
 and 7 fathoms. Having passed the lighthouse, bringing it to bear E. S. E., 
 you may anchor in TVhare Kill road, in 3 or 4 fathoms. To run up the 
 bay bring the lighthouse to bear S., taking care to avoid the sheers ; should 
 you have the flood tide steer N. by E., but with an ebb N. by TV., as the 
 flood sets TV. S. TV., and the ebb the contrary. Proceeding in this manner 
 11 or 12 miles you will leave the Brown shoal, on which is a buoy, on the 
 larboard hand, keep then a N. course until you bring Cape May to bear 
 E. S. E., by which you will make the Brandywine on the starboard, also 
 distinguished by a buoy, the channel between is not above a mile wide. 
 
 Next steer N. TV. by N. or N. N. TV. TV., and you will have 7 or 8 
 fathoms, leaving the Cross ledge, which lies 9 miles from the Brandywine, 
 on the starboard hand. Nearly midway between the two lie the Fourteen 
 feet and Ten feet banks, the former lying on the larboard, and the latter 
 on the starboard side. With a fair wind these banks are not in the way, 
 as they lie nearly N. TV. by TV. and S. E. by E. The Cross ledge is about 
 8 miles long, and has a small vessel with a mast in it for a buoy, which may 
 be seen 2 or 3 leagues off. Having passed the buoy of the Middle shoal, 
 which lies on the larboard side of the channel, steer N. TV., 2 leagues, for 
 the bar of Bombay Hook, which you must carefully avoid when the Hook 
 bears N. TV. or N.TV. by TV. : the bar lies lg mile out, and has only 6 feet 
 at low water. 
 
 From the bar of Bombay Hook to Reedy island your course, with a
 
 390 
 
 leading wind, is N. TV. by N., distance 13 miles; but be careful to avoid 
 Stony Point ledge, that lies 4 or 5 miles S. E. from the island, which is 
 partly dry at low water. This is to be left on the starboard side, and as 
 the channel here is not more than 2 miles wide, be careful to avoid it, 
 particularly with the wind ahead. Be cautious in passing Reedy island to 
 avoid a long shoal that extends to N. N. W., one mile and a half in length ; 
 keep the larboard side best on board. You will next make a small low 
 island on the starboard, which has a shoal flat to the northward, near 1 ^ 
 mile in length, called the Pea patch ; this will be avoided by keeping the 
 larboard side on board until the river bears N. E. or N. E. by N., when 
 you may stand up for Newcastle. 
 
 Newcastle is situated 10 leagues below Philadelphia ; having passed a 
 mile beyond it, take care to give the shore on the larboard side a berth, as 
 a flat extends half a mile from it ; keep then N. E. to E. N. E., in mid- 
 channel, to Marcus Hook, and steer then N. E. by E., 4 miles, to Chester 
 island ; this you leave on the larboard, together with a long low point 
 that lies TV". S. W. from it. Give Chester island a wide berth, keeping the 
 starboard shore best on board until you reach a high sandy bluff point at 
 Billingsport ; you will afterwards pass close to a black buoy, in the channel, 
 as you sail up for Mudfort. Run directly for the port, but do not approach 
 too near ; when abreast of it you will perceive two small islands, between 
 which you must pass, and afterwards haul up N. E. by N. to within a mile 
 of Gloucester point. A northerly course for 3 miles, keeping the larboard 
 side best on board, will then take you to Philadelphia. 
 
 Vessels from the southward, in making the entrance of the Delaware, 
 should keep along the south shore, at the distance of about a mile, until 
 they approach within 4 miles of Cape Henlopen ; they should then edge off 
 to avoid the Hen and Chicken shoal, the south end of which lies S. E. ^ E., 
 3 miles from the lighthouse, and extends 3 miles to the N. N. W., its north 
 end bearing E. by N., 1^ mile from the lighthouse: there are 15 fathoms 
 water near its east side. 
 
 ENTRANCE OF THE CHESAPEAKE. The entrance of the 
 Chesapeake lies between Cape Charles on the north side, and Cape Henry 
 on the south ; the latter is distinguished by a lighthouse, the lantern of 
 which is 120 feet above the sea, and exhibits a fixed light. Vessels ap- 
 proaching the Chesapeake, from the northward, should not stand inwards 
 to a less depth than 7 fathoms until they reach Cape Charles, when they 
 may approach as near as 5 fathoms. Vessels making land to the south- 
 ward of Cape Henry should coast along, in 7 fathoms, towards the Cape, 
 and when you fall in 8 or 9 fathoms, stiff, sticky bottom, you will be in the 
 channel way. 
 
 Cape Henry is low, but bluff; the land about it is low and sandy, and 
 cannot be seen above 7 leagues off; the Cape is rather steep-to, but a small 
 shoal stretches about two cables' length from the shore, east of the lighthouse. 
 The Middle ground lies about 4 miles from the Cape, though its outer part 
 lies 10 miles N. E. by E. ^ E., and 9 miles S. E. by S. from Cape Charles ; 
 this must be carefully avoided in going in. With a northerly wind it may 
 be approached in 5 fathoms ; in the channel between it and Cape Henry 
 are 15 and 16 fathoms. Run in with a fair wind, with the lighthouse 
 bearing TV. by N. ; with a turning wind stand to the southward, until it 
 bears N. TV. by N., and to the northward until it bears TV. by S. 
 
 Ships bound from the Delaware to the Chesapeake should give Cape 
 Henlopen a berth of 3 or 4 miles; then steer S. S. E. about 13 leagues, 
 and thence S. TV. until you reach within 3 leagues of Cape Henry, by 
 which the shoal ground off Cape Charles and the Senepuxen and Chingo-
 
 391 
 
 teak shoals \vill be avoided; the Senepuxen shoal lies 10 leagues S. by 
 E. ^ E. from Cape Henlopen, and has only 10 feet water on it. The 
 Chingoteak is 3 leagues S. by E. from the other, and has but 13 feet 
 water. Another small shoal lies W. ^ S., 3 leagues from Chingoteak 
 island ; and 3 leagues "W. S. W. from this lies the north end of the flat 
 that extends from the islands lying between Chingoteak and Cape Charles. 
 Near the end of this flat are 5 fathoms ; you may run along the edge of it 
 in 4, 5, or 6 fathoms, the course about S. S. W. \ W., and the distance, to 
 abreast of Cape Charles, 20 leagues. 
 
 CHARLES HARBOUR. The entrance of Charleston harbour is dis- 
 tinguished by a lighthouse, the lantern of which is 85 feet above the sea ; 
 it was formerly a fixed light, but has since been altered to a revolving one, 
 to distinguish it from that of Georgetown. The light may be seen 8 or 9 
 leagues ; when first made the time of darkness will be twice that of light ; as 
 you approach the time of darkness will decrease, and that of light increase, 
 until you get within 3 leagues of it, when the light will not wholly disappear; 
 but the difference between the greatest and least light will be as 24 to 1. 
 
 The channel way in is to the southward of the harbour, between the 
 North and South breakers, and is buoyed, the outer one lying on the N. 
 E. end of the South breaker. Bring the lighthouse to bear W. by N. 
 which will lead into mid-channel, and in which you will find from 12 to 
 17 feet water, according to the tide. The buoy, distinguished by a small 
 white flag, lying in 10 feet water in the middle of the channel, may be passed 
 on either side, but be cautious in proceeding that the tide may not set you 
 out of your course, as the flood sets across the channel over the north 
 breakers. Having arrived within half a mile of the lighthouse, you may 
 anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms. The best time for entering Charlestone harbour 
 is an hour and a half before high water. In sailing you must keep the 
 breakers on board, but come not nearer than 7 or 6 fathoms, for they are 
 steep, and from a depth of 6 fathoms you may in the next cast be on shore. 
 There is a ship channel to the southward of that already described, called 
 the South, or Lawford's channel, having 10 to 12 feet water according to 
 the tide ; its course in is N. N. W., indicated by a buoy. 
 
 From the anchorage, called the Five Fathom Hole, the course is N. by E., 
 34 miles, in 6 to 8 fathoms, to Cummins' point, which, having brought W., 
 distant half a mile, change your course to N. N. W., to the west extremity 
 of Sullivan's island, where you will have 8 to 10 fathoms. Sullivan's 
 island is bold-to, and may be approached to within a quarter of a mile ; 
 the course from hence to Charleston is nearly W. \ N., about 5 miles. 
 
 TIDES. It is high water on the full and change of the moon on the 
 south side of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 9j hours. The tide rushes with 
 much rapidity through the Gut of Canso ; in the narrowest part it seldom 
 runs at a slower rate than 4 or 5 miles an hour. On the south shore of 
 Northumberland Strait the time of flowing on the full and change is from 
 7 to 8 hours ; the perpendicular rise is from 3 to 7 or 8 feet. The tides 
 here are very materially varied by the winds; it has been found that at 
 times the stream of the Gut of Canso has continued to run one way for 
 many successive days. It is high water at St. John's, Newfoundland, at 6 
 o'clock ; the tides rise 6 to 8 feet, but very irregiilar, being much influenced 
 by the winds. At Halifax dockyard it is high water on the full and change 
 at 8 o'clock ; springs rise from 6 to 9 feet. St. John's, New Brunswick, at 
 ^ past 11, springs rise 24 feet. Cumberland basin at 12, springs rise 60 
 feet. At the eastern side of Manan island at ] 0, springs rise 25, neaps 20 
 feet. In Passamaquody bay at 1 Of, springs 30, neaps 24 feet. At An- 
 napolis Gut at 10, springs rise 18 feet.
 
 392 
 
 The tides at the entrance, and within the Bay of Fundy, are very rapid 
 but regular, and although the wind against them alters the direction of the 
 ripplings, and sometimes makes them dangerous, yet it has little or no effect 
 upon their courses. The flood tide sets from Cape Sable to the north- 
 westward through the Seal, Mud, and Tusket Bald islands, at the rate of 
 2 or 3 miles an hour, and in the channels among the islands it increases to 
 4 and 5 miles. From thence, taking the direction of the main land, it 
 flows past Cape St. Mary, and then N. N. "W. towards Brier's island ; it 
 runs up St. Mary's bay but slowly, which adds to its strength along the 
 eastern shore, then increasing its rapidity as the bay contracts, it rushes in 
 a bore into the Basin of Mines and up Clugnecto bay, so that here the 
 water sometimes rises to the extraordinary height of 75 feet. 
 
 It is high water off Boston lighthouse at 10 o'clock ; it flows off the town 
 till a quarter of an hour past 11 ; the springs rise 16 feet perpendicularly, 
 neaps 12 feet. It is high water off Race point, at lOf hours; on leaving 
 Cape Cod for Boston you must calculate the tide, as the flood sets strongly 
 to the S. W. At Sandy Hook at 7 5 hours, but the stream of tide con- 
 tinues to set in, at the rate of 2 knots, until 9 hours. At New York, East 
 river, it is high water at 9 ; in the north, or Hudson's river, at 11 o'clock : 
 the vertical rise of tide is about 7 feet, but it is sometimes checked by the 
 westerly or north-westerly winds, so as to lower the water on the bar to 3^ 
 fathoms ; easterly or north-easterly winds have frequently raised it to 5 
 fathoms. The flood sets strongly to the westward from the S. W. spit, 
 until above the Upper Middle, whence it runs up in the channel course to 
 the Narrows. 
 
 In the Delaware it is high water, on the full and change of the moon, as 
 follows: Cape May, at 8f hours: Cape James, or Henlopen, at 9 : Bombay 
 Hook, 10^: Reedy island, 11^: Newcastle, 12: Philadelphia, 3 o'clock. 
 First quarter flood sets near the Capes W. N. W. ; second to last quarter 
 N. N. W. : first quarter ebb E. S. E. ; second to last quarter ebb S. S. E. 
 With spring tides the vertical rise is from 6 to 7 feet ; neap tides 4^ to 5^, 
 but varied by the winds. The flood tide runs in round Cape Henry, and 
 into Lynhaven bay, until 11 o'clock, on the full and change, and out of the 
 way of the Chesapeake stream it flows at 10 ; in Hampton road, at 10^. 
 The tide varies considerably in its direction, according to the time from 
 ebb or flood. The ebb from James and York rivers sets over the Middle 
 Ground to the eastward, which renders the navigation thereabout danger- 
 ous in the night. 
 
 It is high water at Charleston at 7f hours. The depth of water on the 
 bar at low water, neap tides, is 12 feet, at high water, neap tides, 17 feet ; 
 at low water, spring tides, 11 feet, high water 18^ feet. From thence 
 towards Savanna it has been observed that N. E., E., and S. E. winds 
 cause higher tides than other winds. At Port Royal the tide flows, in the 
 full and change of the moon, at 8 j hours. About C leagues from the land, 
 in 12 fathoms water, the flood sets strongly to the southward, and the ebb 
 to the northward ; at a great distance from the shore there is no ebb at all. 
 On Savanna bar there are 20 feet, at low water. At St. Mary's river it is 
 high water at 8^ hours; the tide rises 6 feet at common, and 7 feet at 
 spring tides. 
 
 VARIATION. The variation at St. John's, Newfoundland, is 28 W. : 
 Cape Ray, 24: Quebec, 15 : St. Paul's island, Gulf St. Lawrence, 21: 
 Gut of Canso, 16: Halifax lighthouse, 13 35' : Cape Sable, 11 15': 
 Boston bay, 7 40' : in New York harbour about 7 : off the Delaware 4, 
 and about the same off the Chesapeake.
 
 393 
 
 SECTION XI. 
 
 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF WINDS, TIDES, 
 CURRENTS, &c. 
 
 A change in the temperature of a portion of air ; an increase or a diminution 
 of the quantity of water, which it holds in a state of vapour ; in short, any 
 circumstance which causes it either to contract or to expand, destroys the 
 equilibrium subsisting among the different parts of the atmosphere, and 
 occasions a rush of air, that is, a WIND, towards the spot where the balance 
 has been destroyed. 
 
 WINDS may be divided into three classes those which flow constantly 
 in the same direction, those which are periodical, and those which are 
 variable. It must be observed that the terms which express the direction 
 of winds are employed in a sense quite contrary to that in which they are 
 used when we speak of the direction of currents in the ocean ; a westerly 
 current, for example, signifies a current flowing towards the west, but a 
 westerly wind signifies a wind coming from that quarter. 
 
 The PERMANENT WINDS are those which blow constantly between, and a 
 few degrees beyond the tropics, and are called TRADE-WINDS. On the north 
 of the equator their direction is from the north-east (varying at times a 
 point or two of the compass each way) ; on the south of the equator they 
 proceed from the south-east. The origin of them is this : the powerful 
 heat of the torrid zone rarefies or makes lighter the air of that region ; the 
 air, in consequence of this rarefaction, rises, and, to supply its place, a colder 
 atmosphere from each of the temperate zones moves towards the equator. 
 But (as in the case of the polar currents in the ocean) these north and 
 south winds pass from regions where the rotatory motion of the earth's sur- 
 face is less to those where it is greater. Unable at once to aquire this new 
 velocity they are left behind, and instead of being north and south winds, 
 as they would if the earth's surface did not turn round, they become north- 
 east and south-east winds. The space included between the second and 
 fifth degree of north latitude is the internal boundary of the two winds ; 
 and this space experiences calms, frequently interrupted, however, by violent 
 storms. The reason why it is situated to the north of, instead of exactly 
 at, the equator, seems to be that the northern hemisphere is warmer than 
 the southern ; for since the trade-winds are the result of the continual 
 ascent of heated air in the equatorial parts, their internal boundary will be 
 where the principal ascent is going on that is, where the annual tempera- 
 ture is the highest, which, on account of the above-mentioned inequality 
 of temperature in the two hemispheres, will not be at the equator, but 
 somewhat to the north of it. The external limits of the trade-winds are at 
 a medium in about the 30 of North and South latitude respectively ; but 
 each limit, as the sun approaches the neighbouring tropic, declines further 
 from the equator. The position of the sun has an influence also on their 
 strength and direction ; for when that luminary is near the Tropic of Can- 
 cer, the South-east wind becomes gradually more southerly and stronger, 
 and the North-east weaker and more easterly ; the effect is reversed when 
 he gets towards the Tropic of Capricorn. 
 
 The TRADE-WINDS would blow regularly round the whole globe within 
 the distance of about 30 or 40 from the equator each way, if the space 
 within those limits were all covered with water ; but the uneven surface 
 and unequal temperature of the land divert and derange them ; it is on 
 
 3 D
 
 394 
 
 this account that the trade-winds are constantly experienced only over 
 the open ocean. The larger expanse of ocean over which they range, the 
 more steadily they blow; thus in the Pacific they are commonly more 
 steady than in the Atlantic ocean, and in the South than in the North 
 Atlantic. In sailing from the Canaries to Cumana, on the north coast of 
 South America, it is hardly ever requisite to touch the sails of the vessel. 
 The voyage across the Pacific, from Acapulco on the west coast of Mexico 
 to the Phillipplne islands, is performed with equal facility ; and if there 
 were a channel through the Isthmus of Panama, a westward passage from 
 Europe to China would be more speedy and safe than the usual navigation 
 thither round the Cape of Good Hope ; the only interruption to the evenness 
 of this voyage would be in the Carribean sea and the Gulf of Mexico, 
 where the trade-wind blows impetuously, and is sometimes interrupted by 
 westerly winds. It would not be possible, however, to return by the same 
 route, because in sailing east way must be made to the northward, in order 
 to get beyond the region of the trade into that of the variable winds. 
 Both in the Atlantic and in the Pacific ocean the current of the trade-winds 
 becomes broader and more directly east in its course, as it advances from 
 one side to the other of those extensive basins. On the West Coast of 
 Africa, owing to the rarefaction which the air undergoes over that con- 
 tinent, the wind is mostly turned towards the shore ; from Cape Bojador 
 to Cape Verd it is generally north-west, and thence to ,the island of St. 
 Thomas, under the equator, it bends gradually first to the west and then to 
 the south-west ; along the coasts of Chili and Peru a south wind prevails : 
 these are two instances of the interruption which the trade-winds ex- 
 perience in the neighbourhood of large masses of land. 
 
 In the Indian ocean the south east trade-winds prevail between 28 and 
 10 of south latitude, from within a few degrees of the east side of Mada- 
 gascar, nearly to the coast of New Holland ; but from 1 South latitude 
 to the northern shores of that ocean the uniformity of the tropical move- 
 ments of the atmosphere is destroyed by the monsoons, which belong to the 
 class of periodical winds. These blow hah* the year from one quarter, and 
 the other half from the opposite ; winds and violent storms prevail for a 
 time which render it dangerous to put to sea. They of course suffer 
 partial changes in particular places, owing to the form and position of the 
 lands, and to other circumstances, but it will be sufficient to give their 
 general limits and directions. Northward from the third degree of south 
 latitude, a south-west wind blows from April to October from October to 
 April a north-east : these monsoons extend over the China sea, but here 
 they incline more to the direction of north and south. Between 3 and 10 
 South latitude, a north-west wind blows from October to April, and a 
 south-east during the other six months of the year ; the former is seldom 
 steady in the open sea, but in December and January it sometimes extends 
 northwards a degree or two beyond the equator. These two monsoons 
 have the greatest strength and regularity in the Java Sea, and thence 
 eastward towards New Guinea. The facts above exhibited may be thus 
 summed up : from April to October a south-west wind prevails north of 
 the equator, southward of this a south-east wind from October to April, a 
 north-east wind north of the equator, and a north-west between the equa- 
 tor and 10 South ; south of this the usual trade-wind, which is in motion 
 through the whole year. 
 
 In attempting to account for these movements of the atmosphere over 
 the Indian ocean, the first thing which strikes us is, that the north-east and 
 south-east monsoons, which are found the one on the north and the other 
 on the south side of the equator, are nothing more than the trade- winds
 
 395 
 
 blowing for six months, and then succeeded for the remainder of the year 
 by winds directly opposite. It is also to be noticed that the south-west 
 monsoon in the northern, and the north-west monsoon in the southern, 
 hemisphere, each prevails while the sun is perpendicular to their respective 
 regions ; they are, therefore, connected with the immediate presence of 
 that luminary. If the Indian ocean were not bounded as it is by land on 
 the north, the trade-winds would blow over it (at least in the central 
 parts) as they do in the Atlantic and Pacific oceans ; but it is well known 
 that water, owing to its transparency, is very little warmed by the sun's 
 rays, whereas the land is powerfully heated by them; consequently, when 
 the sun is between the equator and the Tropic of Cancer, India, Siam, and 
 the adjacent countries, become much hotter than the ocean ; the air over 
 them gets rarefied and ascends, colder air then rushes in from the Indian 
 ocean, and a south-west wind is produced. When the sun, however, has 
 crossed to the south of the. equator, these countries become gradually cool, 
 and the north-east trade-wind resume their course. At the same time the 
 north-west monsoon commences in the southern hemisphere, in consequence 
 of the air over New Holland being rarefied by the presence of the sun. 
 
 The monsoons in the Red Sea blow in the direction of the shores ; and a 
 similar effect is observed in the Mozambique Channel, between Africa and 
 Madagascar, where these winds follow the line of the channel. On the 
 Coast of Brazil, between Cape St. Augustine and the island of St. Catherine, 
 and in the bay of Panama, on the west of the isthmus of that name, peri- 
 odical winds occur somewhat similar to the monsoons of Asia. 
 
 The land and sea breezes, which are common on the coasts and islands 
 situated between the tropics, are another kind of periodical winds. During 
 the day the air, over the land, is strongly heated by the sun, and a cool 
 breeze sets in from the sea; but, in the night, the atmosphere over the 
 land gets cooled, while the sea, and consequently the air over it, retains a 
 temperature nearly even at all times: accordingly, after sunset, a land- 
 breeze blows off the shore. The sea-breeze generally sets in about ten in 
 the forenoon, and lasts till six in the evening ; at seven the land-breeze 
 begins, and continues till eight in the morning, when it dies away. These 
 alternate breezes are, perhaps, felt more powerfully on the coast of Malabar 
 than anywhere their effect there extends to a distance of twenty leagues 
 from the land. During summer, the sea-breeze is very perceptible on the 
 coasts of the Mediterranean, and sometimes even as far north as Norway. 
 
 We thus perceive that within the limits of from 28 to 30, on each side 
 of the equator, the movements of the atmosphere are carried on with great 
 regularity; but, beyond these limits, the winds are extremely variable and 
 uncertain, and the observations made have not yet led to any satisfactory 
 theory by which to explain them. It appears, however, that beyond the 
 region of the trade- winds, the most frequent movements of the atmosphere 
 are from the south-west in the north temperate zone, and from the north- 
 west in the south temperate zone. This remark must be limited to winds 
 blowing over the ocean, and in maritime countries ; because those in the 
 interior of continents are influenced by a variety of circumstances, among 
 which the height and position of chains of mountains are not the least 
 important. These south-west and north-west winds of the temperate zones 
 are most likely occasioned in the following manner : in the torrid zone 
 there is a continual ascent of air, which, after rising, must spread itself to 
 the north and south, in an opposite direction to the trade- winds below : 
 these upper currents, becoming cooled above, at last descend and mix 
 themselves with the lower air ; part of them may, perhaps, fall again into 
 the trade-winds, and the remainder, pursuing its course towards the poles,
 
 396 
 
 occasion the north-west and south-west winds of which we have been 
 speaking. It has also been conjectured that these winds may frequently be 
 caused by a decomposition of the atmosphere towards the poles, from part 
 of the air being at times converted into water. 
 
 HURRICANES. Hurricanes have been supposed to be of electric 
 origin. A large vacuum is suddenly created in the atmosphere, into which 
 vacuum the surrounding air rushes with immense rapidity, sometimes from 
 opposite points of the compass, spreading the most frightful devastation 
 along its track, rooting up trees, and levelling houses with the ground. 
 They are seldom experienced beyond the tropics, or nearer the equator 
 than the 9 or 10 of latitude; and they rage with the greatest fury near 
 the tropics, in the vicinity of land or islands, while far out in the open 
 ocean they rarely occur. They are most common among the West India 
 Islands, near the east coast of Madagascar, the islands of Mauritius and 
 Bourbon, in the bay of Bengal at the changing of the monsoons, and on 
 the coasts of China. 
 
 WHIRLWINDS. Whirlwinds sometimes arise from winds blowing 
 among lofty and precipitous mountains, the fonn of which influences their 
 direction, and occasions gusts to descend with a spiral or whirling motion. 
 They are frequently, however, caused by two winds meeting each other at 
 an angle and then turning upon a centre. When two winds thus encounter 
 one another, any cloud which happens to be between them is, of course, 
 condensed and turned rapidly round ; and all substances sufficiently light 
 are carried up into the air by the whirling motion which ensues. 
 
 WATER-SPOUTS. The action of a whirlwind at sea occasions the 
 curious phenomenon called a Water-spout, which is thus described by 
 those who have witnessed it. From a dense cloud a cone descends in the 
 form of a trumpet, with the small end downwards ; at the same time the 
 surface of the sea under it is agitated and whirled round, the waters are 
 separated into vapour, and ascend with a spiral motion till they unite with 
 the cone proceeding from the cloud; frequently, however, they disperse 
 before the junction is effected. Both columns diminish towards their point 
 of contract, where they are not above three or four feet in diameter. In 
 the middle of the cone, forming the water-spout, there is a white trans- 
 parent tube, which becomes less distinct on approaching it, and it is then 
 discovered to be a vacant space in which none of the small particles of 
 water ascend ; and in this, as well as around the outer edges of the water- 
 spout, large drops of rain precipitate themselves. In calm weather, water- 
 spouts generally preserve the perpendicular in their motion ; but, when 
 acted on by the winds, they move on obliquely ; sometimes they disperse 
 suddenly, at others they pass rapidly along the surface of the sea, and con- 
 tinue a quarter of an hour or more before they disappear. A notion has 
 been entertained that they are very dangerous to shipping, owing to the 
 descent, at the instant of their breaking, of a large body of water sufficient 
 to sink a ship ; but this does not appear to be the case, for the water 
 descends only in the form of heavy rain. It is true that small vessels incur 
 a risk of being overset, if they carry much sail ; because sudden gusts of 
 wind, from all points of the compass, are very common in the vicinity of 
 water-spouts. 
 
 TIDES. 
 
 THE TIDES proceed from the attractive forces of the sun and moon, which 
 diminish the gravity of the waters of the ocean, or, which is the same thing, 
 draw or lift up the waters toward themselves.
 
 397 
 
 The moon, on account of her nearness to our planet, has the most 
 powerful effect upon the tides ; it is calculated that her influence is nearly 
 triple that of the sun. The sun, however, acts upon the ocean in the same 
 manner, though in a less degree. When these two bodies unite their 
 influence, which they do at the seasons of new and full moon, the tides 
 naturally rise the highest, and are then called spring tides ; but, when the 
 moon is in her quadratures, or quarters, the action of each of the two 
 luminaries is directly opposed to that of the other ; the tides are then, of 
 course, the lowest, and are called neap tides. During the moon's circuit 
 round the earth, the spring and neap tides each occur twice, and one after 
 the other. 
 
 As the moon crosses the meridian of a place about every twenty-four 
 hours fifty minutes and a half, the sea in that space of time ebbs and flows 
 twice all over the world, although much less towards the poles than within 
 the tropics, where the waters are under the direct line of the lunar attraction. 
 
 Were it not for the reasons hereinafter mentioned it would be high water, 
 at any place in the open sea, when the moon is upon the meridian of that 
 place, and low water when the moon is upon a circle, cutting the meridian 
 in question at right angles ; but, in fact, the greatest and least heights of 
 the water at such a place do not occur till about three hours after. The 
 delay is thus explained : the elevated parts of the sea have received such 
 an impulse towards ascent, that they continue to rise after the earth's 
 rotation has carried them from under the line of the direct attraction of th.e 
 moon ; this impulse being also aided, for a time, by the moon continuing 
 to attract the water upwards, though in a less degree. 
 
 If the earth were entirely covered by a sea of uniform depth, and the 
 sun and moon moved always in the plane of the equator, the region of the 
 highest tides would always be directly under the equator, while at the poles 
 there would never be any tide whatever. But the changes that occur in 
 the positions of the sun and moon, and several other circumstances, prevent 
 the tides from taking place in so uniform a manner. 
 
 It must, at the same time, be kept in view, that, whenever the sun and 
 moon are not situated at the same distances from the equator, so that the 
 circles of their highest tides do not coincide, or fall together, allowance must 
 be made for their attractive forces counteracting, in some degree, each other's 
 effects upon the ocean ; and as the moon completes her range, on each side 
 of the equator, in about 29^ days, while the sun, to complete his, takes 
 nearly 365j days, their combined motions must produce continual irregu- 
 larities in the tides. Taking one year with another, the mean monthly 
 range of the moon, on each side of the equator, is the same as the annual 
 range of the sun (23 28'); the highest tides are, consequently, within the 
 tropics, and the least within the arctic and antarctic circles.* Within the 
 tropics the flood tides pass from east to west (following the apparent 
 course of the sun and moon) but, as the torrid zone is the seat of the high- 
 
 * It has been already stated that it is high water at any place twice in every 24 hours 50^ 
 minutes. When a place is on the same side of the equator as the moon, the tide, which is pro- 
 duced while the moon is above the horizon of the place, will exceed the tide which is produced 
 while the moon is under the horizon of the place ; but, when a place is on the opposite side of 
 the equator to the moon, the effect is exactly the reverse. Thus, when the moon is north of 
 the equator, a place under a parallel of north latitude will have its greatest high water when 
 the moon is above the hori/on ; Imt a place under a parallel of south latitude will have its 
 greatest high water when the moon is below the horizon. When the moon is xoiith of the 
 equator, these effects will be just reversed. In summer, when the sun's declination is con- 
 siderably north, the afternoon tides, north of the equator, are higher than the morning tides ; 
 in winter the morning tides exceed those of the afternoon.
 
 398 
 
 cst tides, the flood in the northern temperate zone comes from the south, 
 and in the southern temperate zone from the the north. To this rule there 
 are, nevertheless, local exceptions, caused by those derangements of the tide 
 which we are now going to mention. 
 
 Of all .irregularities in the tides, those are the greatest which are occa- 
 sioned by the obstacles offered by the land to the ebb and flow of the 
 waters. The impediments created by shallows in the ocean, and by the 
 shores, bays, gulfs, and promontories of islands and continents are such, that 
 the tides are greatly delayed, altered both in degree and in direction, and in 
 many places so accumulated, that they rise to heights far exceeding what 
 is witnessed in the open ocean. On the coasts of the islands of the South 
 Sea, there are regular tides of only one or two feet in elevation ; but, on 
 the western shores of Europe, and on the eastern shores of Asia, the tides 
 are very strong, and have many variations. On the northern coasts of 
 France, the flow being confined in a channel, and repelled also by the op- 
 posite coasts of England, rises to a surprising height, at St. Maloes, in 
 Bretagne, it is said, even to 50 feet. The tide of the German Ocean is 
 twelve hours in travelling from the mouth of the Thames to London Bridge, 
 where it arrives about the time that there is a new tide in the German 
 Ocean. This is one instance, out of the many, of the effect produced upon 
 the tide when it has to pass along a narrow channel, and to overcome an 
 opposing current. 
 
 The explanation that has been given of the manner in which tides are 
 created in the ocean, will enable us to perceive why it is that, in some gulfs 
 and inland seas, there are either no tides, or such trifling ones as to be 
 scarcely discernible. In small collections of water the moon acts with the 
 same line of attraction, or nearly so, upon every portion of the surface at 
 once, and, therefore, the whole of the waters being equally elevated at the 
 same period, no part of them is ever higher than the other. This is one 
 reason why the Baltic has no perceptible tides, and why even those of the 
 Mediterranean are hardly visible.* But, in addition to this, the two seas 
 in question are so circumstanced that they cannot receive tides from the 
 Atlantic : 1st, because their entrances are not turned towards the main 
 direction of the Atlantic tide ; 2ndly, because their entrances are so narrow, 
 that the quantity of tide which that ocean can, in a few hours, impel into 
 them, is insufficient, after being spread over the extensive surfaces of the 
 two seas, to raise their level at all perceptibly. The Greeks who accom- 
 panied Alexander the Great in his expedition to the east, having never 
 been on any other coasts than those of the Mediterranean, were seized with 
 complete consternation on first beholding the retreat of the strong tide 
 which the Indian Ocean sends into the river Indus. In gulfs which are 
 differently circumstanced with respect to the direction of their entrances, 
 and which have openings wider, as compared with their extent, the 
 tides propagated from the ocean are sensibly felt. Hudson's and Baffin's 
 bays, and the Red Sea, are examples which prove the correctness of this 
 observation. 
 
 Currents and winds (especially the latter) have, according to their di- 
 rection, an influence either in quickening or retarding the tide ; indeed a 
 powerful wind will sometimes keep a tide out of very narrow channels. 
 
 * The little tide which there is in the Mediterranean seems to he formed chiefly on the part 
 extending to the east of Malta, and to proceed northward into the Gulf of Venice. M. D'Angos 
 observed that, at Toulon, on the coast of France, the sea rose a foot, about 3 hours and a half 
 after the moon passed the meridian.
 
 399 
 
 On the contrary, a strong wind coming from the same quarter as the tide, 
 will raise it several feet above its usual level. 
 
 The causes which render the movements of the tides complex and irregu- 
 lar, may thus be summed up under four heads 1. The variations in the 
 positions of the sun and moon, with respect to the equator and to each 
 other; 2, the obstacles presented by the land; 3, by winds; and 4, by 
 currents. The existence of these causes render it impossible to lay down 
 any general rule for calculating the level, either of high or of low water, in 
 different latitudes. 
 
 CURRENTS. 
 
 CURRENTS in the ocean may be occasioned in various ways : they may arise 
 from an external impulse (a gale of wind for instance) ; from a difference in 
 temperature or saltness between two parts of the sea ; from the periodical 
 melting of the polar ice, or from the inequality of the evaporation which 
 the surface of the sea undergoes in different latitudes. These causes may 
 produce constant or occasional currents, and, according as they act in con- 
 cert or in opposition, will their effects be various. 
 
 The most remarkable currents are those which continually follow the 
 same direction. There is one which sets regularly from each of the poles 
 towards the equator ; and when we get within 28 or 30 of the line on 
 either side, a general movement is observed in the ocean, in a direction 
 nearly from east to west. The existence of the two polar currents is 
 proved by the floating of masses of ice from the frigid into the temperate 
 regions : these masses are, at times, seen as low as the 45, or even the 40, 
 of latitude. 
 
 It was the opposition of the polar current which principally occasioned 
 the failure of the attempt made by Captain Parry to reach the north pole ; 
 before they desisted from their efforts, the expedition found that, as they 
 advanced over the ice, they were being drifted southward, at a rate faster 
 than that at which they were travelling northward. It is equally certain 
 that a tropical current exists. Judging not only from the direction of 
 bodies floating on the water, but also from the circumstance that vessel?, 
 in crossing from Europe to America, descend to the latitude of the Canary 
 islands, where they fall into a current and are carried rapidly to the west. 
 In going from America to Asia, across the Pacific, a similar effect is ob- 
 served. It might be supposed that this was due solely to the trade- winds, 
 but such is not the case ; for it is quite possible to distinguish their effect 
 from that of the currents, since the progress of the vessel is quicker than 
 it could be with the aid of the wind alone. 
 
 The origin of the polar currents is, no doubt, in great measure, to be 
 referred to the centrifugal force which is the result of the earth's rotation. 
 It may be further explained, when we reflect that the water towards the 
 poles, both on account of its lower temperature and its being less attracted 
 by the heavenly bodies, is heavier than the water in the tropical regions, 
 and moreover, that the heat of the torrid zone occasions a much more 
 powerful evaporation of the sea than is elsewhere experienced : the 
 consequence is, that the waters nearer the poles will move towards the 
 equator, in order to restore the equilibrium which has, in these several 
 ways, been destroyed. The tropical current may also, in another manner, 
 be explained as proceeding from the earth's rotation. The waters, as they 
 advance from the polar seas, pass from regions where the rotatory motion 
 of the earth's surface is very slight, to those where it is exceedingly rapid ; 
 they cannot immediately acquire the rapid motion with which the solid
 
 400 
 
 parts of the earth revolve in the tropical regions, and they are, accordingly, 
 left rather behind, that is to the westward (the earth turning round from 
 west to east). The ocean, consequently, appears to retreat from the 
 western, and advance upon the eastern coasts of the continents, or, in other 
 words, to have a general movement from east to west ; and the effect is 
 very much assisted by the constant blowing of the trade- winds. 
 
 We will now explain the modifications, or changes, which this grand 
 movement in the ocean undergoes, in consequence of the obstacles presented 
 by the land to its free progress. When it meets with shores or narrow 
 straits to impede or turn aside its course, it forms strong and even danger- 
 ous currents. The eastern coast of America, and the West India islands, 
 constitute a sort of dyke to the general westward motion of the Atlantic ; 
 and it will be seen, if we refer to a map, that from Cape St. Roque, in 
 about 5 South latitude, the coast of South America stretches away in a 
 continued line to the north-west, as far as the isle of Trinidad. Owing to 
 this shape of the coast the waters, as far as 10 South, are, when they ap- 
 proach America, carried away in a current to the north-west. This current 
 afterwards enters the Gulf of Mexico, through the strait formed by the 
 western end of Cuba and the opposite peninsula (from this part it is called, 
 by navigators, the GULF-STREAM) and follows the bendings of the Mexican 
 coast, from Vera Cruz to the mouth of the Rio del Norte, and thence to 
 the mouths of the Mississippi, and the shoals west of the southern extrem- 
 ity of Florida. It next takes a new direction to the north, and rushes 
 impetuously into the Gulf of Florida. M. Humboldt observed in the month 
 of May, 1804, in the 26 and 27 of latitude, that its velocity was eighty 
 miles in twenty-four hours, although, at the time, there was a violent wind 
 against it. 
 
 At the end of the Gulf of Florida (north latitude 28) it runs to the 
 north-east, at the rate, sometimes, of five miles an hour. It may always 
 be distinguished by the high temperature* and saltness of its waters, their 
 indigo-blue colour, and the quantity of sea- weed floating on the surface, and 
 also by the heat of the surrounding atmosphere. The rapidity and tem- 
 perature of the Gulf-stream diminish towards the north, while, at the same 
 time, its breadth increases.t Its further progress northward is at last 
 checked by the southern extremity of the Great Bank at Newfoundland, 
 in 42 N., where it turns suddenly to the east. It afterwards continues 
 moving towards the E. and the E. S. E. as far as the Azores; and thence 
 it turns towards the Straits of Gibraltar, the isle of Madeira, and the group 
 of the Canaries, till, on reaching the parallel of Cape Blanco, it completes 
 the round by mixing with the grand westerly current of the tropics. It is 
 probable however, that a branch still keeps on its course to the south and 
 south east, along the coast of Africa : and it is well known that ships, if 
 they approach too near the shore, are drawn into the Gulf of Guinea, and 
 with difficulty get out again. We thus see that between the parallels of 
 11 and 43, the waters of the Atlantic are carried on in a continual 
 whirlpool. Humboldt remarks that, " Supposing a particle of water to 
 
 * Humboldt observes that " The waters of the Mexican Gulf, forcibly drawn to the north-east, 
 preserve their warm temperature to such a point, that at 40 and 41 of latitude, he found them 
 at 72^ (Fahrenheit) ; when out of the current, the heat of the ocean, at its surface, was scarcely 
 GSj . In the parallel of New York (41 N.) the temperature of the Gulf-stream is, conse 
 quently, equal to that of the seas of the tropics in the 18 of latitude." 
 
 + Its breadth in latitude 28^ is seventeen leagues (3.46 miles to a league); in the parallel 
 of Charles Town (33 nearly) from 40 to 50 leagues ; and on the meridian of Corro and Flores, 
 the westernmost of the Azore islands, it is one hundred and sixty leagues.
 
 401 
 
 returii to the same place from which it departed, we can estimate, from our 
 present knowledge of the swiftness of currents, that this circuit of 3,800 
 leagues is not terminated in less than two years and ten months. A boat, 
 which may be supposed to receive no impulse from the winds, would require 
 thirteen months, from the Canary islands, to reach the coast of Caraccas; ten 
 months to make the tour of the Gulf of Mexico and reach Tortoise shoals, 
 opposite the port of the Havannah ; while forty or fifty days might be 
 sufficient to carry it from the Straits of Florida to the Bank of Newfound- 
 land. It would be difficult to fix the rapidity of the retrograde current 
 from this bank to the coasts of Africa : estimating the mean velocity of the 
 waters at seven or eight miles in 24 hours, we find ten or eleven months 
 for this last distance." It is a curious fact, that towards the close of the 
 fifteenth century, before Europeans were acquainted with the existence of 
 America, two bodies, belonging to an unknown race of men, were cast, by 
 the Gulf-stream, on the coasts of the Azores, and pieces of bamboo were 
 brought, by the same current, to the shore of the same island of Porto 
 Santo ; by these circumstances, Columbus is said to have been strengthened 
 in his conjectures with respect to the existence of a Western Continent. 
 
 An arm of the Gulf-stream, in the 45 and 50 of latitude, runs to the 
 north-east, towards the coasts of Europe, and becomes very strong when 
 the wind has blown long from the west. The fruit of trees, which belong 
 to the American torrid zone, is, every year, deposited on the western coasts 
 of Ireland and Norway ; and on the shores of the Hebrides are collected 
 seeds of several plants, the growth of Jamaica, Cuba, and the neighbouring 
 continent. The most striking circumstance, perhaps, is that of the wreck 
 of an English vessel, burnt near Jamaica, having been found on the coast 
 of Scotland. 
 
 There are various currents in the Pacific and Indian oceans. The general 
 westward motion of the former is impeded by a numerous archipelago, and 
 hence it receives different directions. A strong current sets to the west 
 through each of the two straits, which respectively separate New Holland 
 from New Guinea and from Van Dieman's Land. It then gets diverted, 
 and flows northward, along the bottom of the coast of Sumatra, till it 
 reaches the Bay of Bengal. The following appears to be the reason of its 
 taking this course : the general impetus of the Pacific towards the west, 
 being encountered by New Holland and the numerous East India isles, is 
 broken and dispersed ; while the westerly motion of the Indian sea has 
 not, in so early a stage, acquired much strength ; the polar current, from 
 the south, at the same time presses upon the wide opening which the 
 Indian sea presents to that quarter, and the waters on the eastern verge 
 of that sea are, therefore, pushed into the Bay of Bengal. In the neigh- 
 bourhood of Ceylon and the Maldive islands, however, the tropical motion 
 has become powerful enough to resist the polar current. The westerly 
 current then recommences, but is again turned out of its line, and made to 
 flow to the south-west, by the chain of islands and shallows which reaches 
 from the extremity of the Indian peninsula to Madagascar. After passing 
 Madagascar, it dashes against Africa, and, at the termination of that conti- 
 nent, mingles with the general motion of the waters. 
 
 A current afterwards sweeps from the Atlantic into the Pacific ocean, 
 through the Straits of Magalhaen. There can be little doubt that this is a 
 branch of the general current from the south pole ; though, at the same 
 time, it may be partly the result of the westerly movement of the Atlantic, 
 which being checked by the shores of Brazil, flows to the south-west, along 
 the South American coast. 
 
 There is a question connected with the currents of the Arctic ocean, which 
 
 3 E
 
 402 
 
 has engaged a good deal of attention, and been considered difficult to ex- 
 plain : it is from what quarters the timber can come, which is found floating 
 on the polar seas, in such large quantities, and so much of which is thrown 
 ashore on the northern side of Iceland.* The few specimens seen of the 
 growth of Mexico and Brazil must have travelled to the north, by means 
 of the Gulf-stream, of which we have spoken ; the rest (principally pines 
 and firs) most likely comes from Siberia and North America, along the 
 shores of which it is drifted till it arrives at the opening into the Atlantic, 
 in the midst of which Iceland is placed. 
 
 The existence of under currents different from, and even opposite in their 
 direction to, those on the surface, is, by no means improbable, in some 
 cases, though it is a matter not admitting proof. It has been thought that 
 the Mediterranean, which has a strong flow always setting into it through 
 the Straits of Gibraltar, sends back a portion of its waters into the Atlantic, 
 by a concealed current. Contrary currents, passing along side by side, are 
 not uncommon. In the Cattegat a northern current flows out of the Baltic, 
 along the coast of Sweden, while a southern one enters the Baltic along the 
 coast of Denmark. When two opposite currents, of about equal force, 
 meet one another, they sometimes, especially in narrow channels, turn upon 
 a centre, and assume a spiral form, giving rise to eddies or whirlpools. The 
 most celebrated of these are the Euripus, near the island of Eubcea, in the 
 Grecian Archipelago ; Charybdis, in the strait between Italy and Sicily ; 
 and the Maelstroom, off the coast of Norway. The most violent of them, 
 when agitated by tides or winds, become very dangerous to navigation. 
 
 ON THE OCEAN ITS SALTNESS AND TEMPERATUKE. 
 
 THAT vast body of water which surrounds the continents, and is the com- 
 mon receptacle of their running waters, is indispensably necessary to the 
 support of animal and vegetable existence upon the earth. Its perpetual 
 agitations purify the air, and the vapours, which the atmosphere draws up 
 from its surface, being condensed and dispersed through the upper regions, 
 form clouds, which are the source of a constant supply of rain and moisture 
 to the land. The ocean also, by the facilities for communication which it 
 offers, is the means of uniting the most distant nations, while it enables 
 them to interchange, with mutual advantage, the productions of their 
 several climates. 
 
 The bottom of the sea appears to have similar inequalities to the surface 
 of the continents ; the depth of the water is, therefore, extremely various. 
 There are vast spaces where no bottom has been found; but this, of course, 
 does not prove that the sea is bottomless, because the line is able to reach 
 but a comparatively small depth. Lord Mulgrave, in the Northern Ocean, 
 let down a very heavy sounding lead, and gave out with it nearly 4,700 
 feet of rope without finding the bottom ; and Mr. Scoresby mentions having 
 sounded in the Greenland sea as much as 7,200 feet. Such experiments, 
 however, must be of very doubtful character ; it is well known how much 
 more easily bodies may be moved along in the water than in the atmos- 
 phere, and, consequently, any current would be sufficient to carry the lead 
 
 * From the account which Captain Parry has given of his voyage, it appears that there is 
 also a great quantity of timber, which has been cast by the sea upon the northern coast of 
 Spitzbergen.
 
 403 
 
 with it, and so draw the rope out of a perpendicular direction. If we were 
 to found our opinion upon analogy, we might conclude that the greatest 
 depth of the ocean is, at least, equal to the height of the loftiest mountains, 
 that is, between 20,000 and 30,000 feet. 
 
 The level of the sea, if it were not for the action of external causes, would 
 be the same everywhere at the same instant, owing to the equal pressure 
 exerted by the particles of a fluid upon each other in every direction. The 
 figure assumed by the ocean would, therefore, exhibit the true surface of our 
 planet, that of an oblate spheroid. But it is evident that no general level 
 of this kind can ever exist, because the tide at any given moment is at very 
 different heights in different parts of the ocean. The level is also continually 
 being disturbed by the operation of the winds in particular regions. Inde- 
 pendent, however, of these circumstances, it would appear that in gulfs and 
 inland seas, which have only a slight communication with the ocean, the level 
 of the water is usually more elevated than in the latter. This seems to be 
 more especially the case if the only openings of these gulfs are towards the 
 east ; and it is attributed with reason to the accumulation which arises 
 from the water being driven into these confined inlets by the general 
 movement to which allusion will be made presently. When the French 
 engineers were in Egypt, they made observations, according to which the 
 waters of the Red Sea, on the east side of the Isthmus of Suez, were 32| 
 feet higher than those of the Mediterranean, on the opposite shore of the 
 same isthmus. M. Humboldt made observations of a similar kind upon the 
 Isthmus of Panama, and his conclusion is, that the waters of the Gulf of 
 Mexico are from 20 to 23 feet higher than those of the Pacific on the other 
 side. Of certain inland seas the level varies with the seasons ; the Baltic 
 and the Black Sea, which are in fact almost lakes, swell in the spring, 
 from the abundance of water brought down to them at that period by the 
 rivers. 
 
 The general colour of the sea is a deep bluish green, which becomes 
 clearer towards the coasts. This colour is thought to arise entirely from 
 the same cause as the azure tint of the sky; the rays of blue light, being 
 the most refrangible, pass in the greatest quantity through the water, 
 which, on account of its density and depth, makes them undergo a strong 
 refraction. The other colours exhibited in parts of the sea depend on 
 causes which are local, and sometimes deceptive. The Mediterranean, in 
 its upper part, is said to have, at times, a purple tint. In the Gulf of 
 Guinea the sea is white ; around the Maldive islands it is black ; and in 
 some places it has been observed to be red. These appearances are pro- 
 bably occasioned by vast numbers of minute marine insects, by the nature 
 of the soil, or by the infusion of certain earthy substances in the water. 
 The green and yellow shades of the sea proceed, frequently, from the 
 existence of marine vegetables at or near the surface. 
 
 The water of the sea contains several extraneous substances, in propor- 
 tions varying in different places. The component parts, in addition to pure 
 water, are commonly muriatic or marine acid, sulphuric acid (vitriol) fixed 
 mineral alkali, magnesia, and sulphurated lime. By boiling, or evaporation 
 in the air, common salt (muriate of soda) is obtained, which for salting 
 meat is preferred to the salt of springs. The saltness of the sea appears, 
 with some local exceptions, to be less towards the poles than near the 
 tropics ; but the difference is very slight, and perhaps the observations 
 made are not sufficiently numerous to justify any positive general con- 
 clusions. Some observations which have been made tend to prove that 
 the sea is less salt at the surface than towards the bottom. 
 
 The degree of saltness, in particular parts of the sea, frequently Tories
 
 404 
 
 from temporary causes. The violent tropical rains have an effect in dimi- 
 nishing it, especially near coasts, where an increased volume of fresh water 
 is brought down by the rivers. The Baltic is, at all times, less salt than 
 the ocean, and, when a strong east wind keeps out the North Sea, its 
 waters are said to become almost fit for domestic uses. The most curious 
 phenomenon of all is that of springs of fresh water rising up in the midst 
 of the sea ; Humboldt mentions that in the Bay of Xagua, on the southern 
 coast of Cuba, springs of this kind gush up with great force at the dis- 
 tance of two or three miles from the land. 
 
 The bitterness which exists in sea water, but apparently not beyond a 
 certain depth, is, with much probability, considered to be owing to the 
 vegetable and animal matter held there in a state of decomposition. 
 
 Water being a bad conductor of heat, the temperature of the sea changes 
 much less suddenly than that of the atmosphere, and is by no means subject 
 to such extremes as the latter.* It may safely be affirmed that the tem- 
 perature never, in any season, or under any latitude, exceeds 85 or 86 
 of Fahrenheit. The existence of banks or shallows has a local effect in 
 diminishing the temperature of the ocean, but the great agents in modifying 
 it are currents, which mingle together the waters of different depths and 
 regions. Thus the Gulf Stream, as it is termed, which sets into the Gulf 
 of Mexico, is much warmer than the neighbouring parts of the sea : the 
 current of Chili is just the reverse. 
 
 * The effect of the sea is to equalize temperature, so that a maritime country is not liable to 
 such extremes, either of heat or cold, as an inland one. The sea itself being of a very equable 
 temperature, the winds which pass over an extent of it partake somewhat of the same character. 
 When a cold wind passes over sea it receives part of the warmth of the water, the upper particles 
 of which being thus rendered cooler, and consequently heavier than those below, descend and 
 are succeeded by warmer particles ; so that there is a continual tendency in the sea to temper 
 a cold wind passing over its surface. A cold wind, blowing overland, is at first rendered warmer 
 by the earth's surface ; but this surface quickly becoming cooled, ceases to have any effect 
 upon the wind, which, therefore, travels on with undiminished rigour. Again, a warm wind, 
 in passing over the sea, is cooled by the agitation which it produces, bringing up cooler water 
 from below, as well as by the constant evaporation which it occasions ; the surface of the water 
 also cannot, as that of the land, be powerfully heated by the sun's rays, because it affords them 
 a free passage, and therefore it cannot communicate heat to the atmosphere in the degree 
 which the land does. From these circumstances it results that, though a place situated 
 inland and another upon a coast may have the same mean annual temperature, the range of 
 the thermometer at each will be very different; the summers of the latter will be cooler, and the 
 winters milder than those of the former. It is from this cause that islands are so much more 
 temperate than continents. It follows, too, that countries in our hemisphere will be rendered 
 warmer by having large tracts of land to the south, and sea to the north ; and cooler when the 
 relative position of these two is reversed. This fact is exemplified by a comparison of the 
 climate of India with that of Africa, north of the equator, the heats of the former country being 
 much more supportable than those of the latter. Not only the temperature of a wind, but 
 also its degree of moisture, depends upon the nature of the surface over which it passes. A 
 wind coming up from the ocean is loaded with vapours, but one sweeping over an extent of 
 land is rendered dry and parching. This explains to us why, in our own island, a south-west 
 and an easterly wind are so opposite in character.
 
 405 
 
 TABLES OF THE TEMPERATURE OF THE ATLANTIC 
 OCEAN, IN DIFFERENT DEGREES OF LONGITUDE. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 Latitude. 
 
 Longitude. 
 
 Temperature at 
 the Surface. 
 
 Period of the 
 Observation. 
 
 Observers. 
 
 
 39 10* N. 
 
 16 18' W. 
 
 59 OC'Fahr. 
 
 
 
 
 34 30 
 
 16 55 
 
 61 34 
 
 
 
 
 I 32 16 
 
 17 4 
 
 63 86 
 
 
 
 These experi- 
 
 30 36 
 
 16 54 
 
 65 48 
 
 Between June 
 
 
 ments were made 
 
 29 18 
 
 16 40 
 
 66 74 
 
 9th and July 
 
 Humboldt 
 
 during a passage 
 
 26 51 
 
 19 13 
 
 68 00 
 
 15th, 1799. 
 
 
 from Spain to the 
 
 20 8 
 
 28 51 
 
 70 16 
 
 
 
 New Continent. 
 
 17 57 
 
 33 14 
 
 72 32 
 
 
 
 
 14 57 
 
 44 40 
 
 74 66 
 
 
 
 
 13 51 
 
 49 43 
 
 76 46 
 
 
 
 
 10 46 
 
 60 54 
 
 78 44 
 
 
 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 ; 
 
 Latitude. 
 
 Longitude. 
 
 Temperature 
 of the Ocean. 
 
 Period of the 
 Observation. 
 
 Observers. 
 
 MeanTemperature 
 of the Air in the 
 Bason of the Sea. 
 
 ] 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 < 58' S. 
 
 27 34' W. 
 
 80 96'Fahr. 
 
 Nov. 1788 
 
 Churruca ' 
 
 
 i 57 
 
 30 11 
 
 81 86 
 
 April, 1803 
 
 Quevedo 
 
 
 33 
 
 21 20 
 
 81 86 
 
 March, 1800 
 
 Perrins 
 
 80 6' (Cook) 
 
 11 N. 
 
 84 15 
 
 82 40 
 
 Feb. 1803 
 
 Humboldt 
 
 
 13 
 
 51 42 E. 
 
 80 78 
 
 May, 1800 
 
 Perrins 
 
 
 25 15 N. 
 
 20 36 W. 
 
 68 00 
 
 June, 1799 
 
 Humboldt \ 
 
 
 25 29 
 25 49 
 
 27 40 
 
 39 54 
 26 20 
 17 4 
 
 70 88 
 69 26 
 70 88 
 
 April, 1803 
 March, 1800 
 Jan. 1768 
 
 Quevedo 
 Perrins j- 
 Chappe 
 
 698'(LaPerouse' 
 and Dalrymple) 
 
 28 47 
 
 18 17 
 
 74 30 
 
 Oct. 1788 
 
 Churruca J 
 
 
 42 34 N. 
 
 15 45 W. 
 
 51 98 
 
 Feb. 1800 
 
 Perrins ~\ 
 
 
 43 17 
 
 31 27 
 
 59 90 
 
 May, 1803 
 
 Quevedo 
 
 
 43 58 
 
 13 7 
 
 60 62 
 
 June, 1799 
 
 Humboldt I 
 
 54 86' (Cook and 
 
 44 58 
 
 34 47 
 
 54 86 
 
 Dec. 1789 
 
 Williams f 
 
 d'Entrecasteaux) 
 
 i 45 13 
 
 4 40 
 
 59 90 
 
 Nov. 1776 
 
 Franklin 
 
 
 i 48 11 
 
 14 18 
 
 57 74 
 
 June, 1790 
 
 Williams J 
 
 
 These tables refer only to the Atlantic ocean ; but the experiments 
 which have been made in the South sea, and in the Indian ocean, show 
 that, within a certain distance of the equator, the general temperature of 
 the sea follows nearly the same rule in corresponding latitudes. Within 
 the tropics there is no sensible difference in north and in south latitudes ; 
 there is very little even as far as 35 and 40; but, when we advance into 
 high latitudes, there can be no doubt that the sea is colder in the southern 
 than in the northern hemisphere. Ice extends from five to eight degrees 
 of latitude farther from the south than from the north pole, owing, it is 
 probable, to the almost entire absence of land near the Antarctic circle ; 
 while the north pole is so nearly surrounded by land, that the ice of the 
 Arctic ocean is shut up, and cannot be carried forward to such a distance 
 by the current which sets towards the equator.
 
 406 
 
 Bays, inland seas, and the spaces among clusters of islands, where the 
 action of the waves is more confined, and the water usually of less depth, 
 are the most favourable places for the production and accumulation of the 
 marine ice. It is on this account that the navigation of the Baltic is an- 
 nually stopped by the ice, in a latitude not more northerly than that of 
 tracts which, in the main ocean, are always open to the passage of ships. 
 In severe winters, people may travel in sledges across the entrance of the 
 Gulf of Bothnia (latitude 60) which, including the numerous small inter- 
 vening islands, is a distance of 115 miles. The body of ice accumulated 
 in Lancaster's Sound has defied all the attempts that have been made to 
 accomplish the north-west passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific. 
 
 The ice of the polar seas assumes a great variety of shapes and appear- 
 ances. The vast and thick sheets, which are met in the high latitudes, are 
 called fields by navigators ; they are so extensive that their boundaries 
 cannot be seen from a ship's mast-head ; and Captain Cook found a chain 
 of them joining Eastern Asia to North America : sheets of less extent than 
 fields are called floes. Bergs are islands of ice, considerably elevated above 
 the water; and, though of the most various forms, commonly perpendicular 
 on one side, and sloping gradually down on the other in height they are 
 sometimes as much as 200 feet. There are two ways of explaining the 
 formation of these bodies. The large masses of ice in the Polar seas, when 
 crowded together by winds and currents, exert such an enormous pressure 
 upon each other, that they are frequently broken, and the fragments are 
 piled up so as to form mounds and ridges of considerable elevation; it 
 is thus that many of the small icebergs originate. There is no doubt, 
 however, that the most bulky of these bodies are detached portions of 
 vast glaciers, such as abound on the precipitous coasts of Greenland and 
 Spitzbergen, broken off in consequence either of their own weight, or the 
 undermining actions of the waves, and then carried by winds and currents 
 to other parts of the ocean. 
 
 When the summer has well advanced the masses of ice, which have been 
 frozen together during the winter, gradually separate, and clear spaces of 
 water are left. As soon as the end of September these open spaces again 
 begin to freeze over ; and, before this effect commences, the temperature 
 of the air must be very much lowered, owing partly to the freezing point 
 of sea being 85 (Fahrenheit) below that of common water, but more 
 especially to the surface which the water presents to the atmosphere 
 being repeatedly changed, before its temperature is sufficiently reduced 
 for it to freeze. This change in the surface, which is greatly assisted by 
 the agitation of the sea, takes place in consequence of the particles of a 
 liquid body becoming specifically heavier as they get cooled, so that they 
 descend and are succeeded by warmer particles. 
 
 There are three kinds of movements constantly going on in the waters 
 of the sea: 1. The agitations which its surface undergoes by the action 
 of winds. 2. Tides, which are the result of the attraction exercised on 
 the water by the sun and moon. 3. Currents, which arise from different 
 causes, some of them existing within the element itself. As the particles 
 of a fluid press equally in every direction, it follows that when a portion of 
 1 the surface of the water is displaced by wind, the adjoining water instantly 
 rushes in to restore the equilibrium or balance which has been destroyed : 
 this accounts for the formation of waves. When a violent impulse has been 
 communicated, the waves continue in motion for some hours after the gale 
 has entirely subsided, on the same principle as a pendulum continues to 
 swing for some time after it has been set in action. Yet the agitation oc- 
 casioned by winds extends to comparatively but a little way below the
 
 407 
 
 surface of the water : divers say that, in the roughest weather, it is calm 
 at the depth of 90 feet. 
 
 The subject of this section has been chiefly derived from the works pub- 
 lished under the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge. 
 
 SECTION XII. 
 TABLE OF LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES. 
 
 ENGLAND, WALES, AND IRELAND. 
 
 NAMES OP PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 LONDON, St. Paul's 51 30' 49'N 5' 47" W 
 
 GREENWICH, Observatory 51 28 39 000 
 
 Sheerness Flagstaff 51 26 45 44 26 E 
 
 North Foreland Light 51 22 25 1 26 34 
 
 South Foreland High Light 51 8 26 1 22 6 
 
 Dover Castle 51 7 47 1 19 7 
 
 Dungeness Lighthouse 50 55 1 57 48 
 
 Beachy Head Station 50 44 24 15 12 
 
 Brighton Church 50 49 32 7 40 W 
 
 Sea Ower Light- vessel 50 39 57 39 59 
 
 Portsmouth Academy 50 48 4 1 5 59 
 
 South-Sea Castle 50 46 44 152 
 
 Calshot Castle 50 49 7 1 18 6 
 
 Hurst Castle 50 42 25 1 32 45 
 
 Dunnose ... 50 37 9 1 11 36 
 
 St. Catherine's Tower 50 35 34 1 17 51 
 
 Needle's Lighthouse 50 39 54 1 33 55 
 
 Portland Upper Lighthouse 50 31 23 2 26 49 
 
 BerryHead 50 24 2 3 28 14 
 
 Start Point Flagstaff 50 13 27 3 38 21 
 
 Bolt Head Station 50 13 45 3 48 3 
 
 Eddystone Lighthouse 50 10 54 4 15 3 
 
 Mewstone, near Plymouth Sound 50 18 30 4 5 33 
 
 Plymouth New Church 50 22 21 47 16 
 
 Rame Head Flagstaff 50 18 53 4 12 29 
 
 Dodman or Deadman Point 50 ]3 21 4 47 4 
 
 St. Anthony's Head Flagstaff 50 8 35 4 59 31 
 
 Pendennis Castle 50 8 50 5 1 44 
 
 Lizard Upper Lighthouse 49 57 41 5 11 5 
 
 St. Michael's Mount 50 7 2 5 27 33 
 
 Land's End, Stone 50 4 8 5 41 31 
 
 Longship's Lighthouse 50 4 2 5 43 33 
 
 Scilly Islands, St. Agnes' Light 49 53 37 6 19 23 
 
 St. Agnes' Beacon, Cornwall 50 18 27 5 11 56 
 
 Trevose Head 50 32 57 50 54 
 
 Hartland Point 51 1 22 4 30 26 
 
 Lundy Island Lighthouse 51 10 5 4 39 20
 
 408 
 
 NAMES OP PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Bristol Cathedral 51 27' 6"N 235'29"W 
 
 Worm's Head 51 33 56 4 18 56 
 
 St. Anne's High Light, MUford 51 40 59 59 19 
 
 Milford Church 51 42 43 50 39 
 
 Small's Lighthouse 51 43 18 5 38 54 
 
 Liverpool, St. Paul's 53 24 40 2 58 55 
 
 DUBLIN Light 53 21 13 65 13 
 
 Waterford 52 12 .760 
 
 Tuskar Light 52 13 670 
 
 Cork 51 53 54 8 28 
 
 Kinsale, Old Head 51 35 8 30 
 
 Baltimore 51 28 9 20 
 
 Cape Clear 51 24 55 9 29 
 
 Bantry Bay, Sheep's Head 51 31 9 52 
 
 Skellig, outer 51 50 10 27 
 
 Dursey Island, W. end 51 34 10 15 
 
 BrandonHead 52 22 10 7 
 
 Kerry Head 52 27 9 53 
 
 Loop Head 52 34 9 52 28 
 
 Limerick 52 39 8 33 
 
 FRANCE, SPAIN, AND PORTUGAL. 
 
 PARIS, Observatory 48 50 15 N 2 20 15 E 
 
 Calais ! 50 57 32 1 51 16 
 
 Boulogne 50 43 37 1 36 59 
 
 Dieppe Light 49 55 34 14 44 
 
 Havre 49 29 14 06 38 
 
 Cape le Heve Lighthouse 49 30 42 04 15 
 
 Cape Barfleur Lighthouse 49 41 45 1 16 15 W 
 
 Cherbourg 49 38 31 1 37 3 
 
 Cape Frehel Lighthouse 48 41 10 2 18 36 
 
 TJshant Lighthouse .' 48 28 8 536 
 
 Brest 48 23 14 4 28 45 
 
 L'Orient 47 45 11 3 21 2 
 
 Belle Isle, S. end 47 17 17 34 45 
 
 Nantes 47 13 6 1 32 44 
 
 Rhe or Re Island Lighthouse 46 14 49 1 33 25 
 
 Oleron Tour de Chassiron Light 46 2 51 1 24 12 
 
 LaRochelle 46 9 21 1 9 40 
 
 Rochefort 45 56 10 57 34 
 
 Cordouan Lighthouse 45 35 15 1 10 13 
 
 Bordeaux 44 50 14 34 
 
 Bayonne 43 29 15 1 28 26 
 
 MADRID, Grand Place 40 24 57 3 41 45 
 
 Santander 43 28 20 3 39 50 
 
 CapeOrtegal 43 46 40 7 50 30 
 
 Cape Prior 43 34 15 8 15 45 
 
 Ferrol, entrance 43 28 8 16 15 
 
 Corunna Lighthouse 43 23 36 8 19 35 
 
 Cape Finisterre 42 56 10 9 16 15 
 
 Vigo 42 13 20 8 39 45 
 
 Porto or Oporto, entrance to 41 8 45 8 38 
 
 Aveiro... 40 38 30 8 43
 
 409 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 CapeMindego 40 11' 50" N 8 54' 0" W 
 
 Berlengas, or Burlings 39 24 40 9 30 42 
 
 Cape Roca, or Rock of Lisbon 38 46 30 9 30 36 - 
 
 LISBON, Observatory 38 42 38 98 15 
 
 Cape St. Vincent : 37 2 54 9 54 
 
 Cape Santa Maria, or St. Mary 36 55 24 7 49 50 
 
 Point Chipiona, entrance to St. Lucar ... 36 44 18 6 24 15 
 
 CADIZ, Observatory 36 32 6 17 37 
 
 St. Sebastian Lighthouse 36 31 10 6 18 50 
 
 Cape Trafalgar 36 10 15 61 52 
 
 Isle of Tarifa, Lighthouse 36 50 5 36 15 
 
 GIBRALTAR, Europa Point 36 6 20 5 20 53 
 
 WESTERN COAST OF AFRICA. 
 
 Cape Non 28 41 ON 11 15 20 W 
 
 False Cape Bojador 26 25 12 14 12 30 
 
 Cape Bojador 26 7 10 14 30 30 
 
 Seven Capes, centre 24 41 10 15 30 
 
 AngradosCaballos..., 20 82 15 36 3 
 
 Ouro River, entrance, North Point 23 36 18 15 58 30 
 
 Peninsula, South Point 23 36 3 15 58 
 
 Cintra Bay, North Point 23 70 16 9 2 
 
 , South Point 22 56 6 16 14 1 
 
 CapeBarbas 22 19 30 16 39 10 
 
 PedradeAgall 22 12 4 16 47 8 
 
 Cape Corvoeiro 21 13 3 17 4 5 
 
 Cape Blanco 20 47 17 4 30 
 
 CapeMirik 19 25 16 34 
 
 Portendik 18 19 16 2 10 
 
 Senegal River, Island of St. Louis 16 08 16 32 
 
 entrance, North Point, 15 55 3 16 32 7 
 
 Cape Verd, the Paps 14 43 25 17 30 45 
 
 GoreeTown 14 39 50 17 25 
 
 Portudal 14 27 3 17 3 2 
 
 JoalTown 14 11 16 49 5 
 
 Gambia River, Bathurst Flagstaff 13 28 16 35 3 
 
 Bird Island Flagstaff 13 39 10 16 40 30 
 
 Cape St. Mary 13 30 10 16 41 20 
 
 Fort James 13 19 7 16 22 2 
 
 Tankrowall 13 25 16 3 8 
 
 Elephant Port, West Point 13 26 5 15 20 6 
 
 Yawamarroo Town 13 42 14 58 5 
 
 McCarthy's Island, Fort George 13 33 14 45 5 
 
 Pisanya 13 32 9 14 34 3 
 
 San Pedro River 13 10 16 45 5 
 
 Sonta River, Bird Island 12 43 5 16 45 
 
 Cassamas, or Casamanze River, entrance 12 35 5 16 43 
 
 Cape Roxo 22 22 9 16 51 4 
 
 Roussin's Roxo Cape 12 20 5 16 45 8 
 
 Bissao, Portuguese Fort 11 51 15 37 1 
 
 Bijuga Islands, Papukawa 11 36 5 15 54 2 
 
 Bijooga Islands, Areas 11 41 2 15 39 
 
 3F
 
 410 
 
 NAMES OP PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Bijooga, Rio Grande, Bolola Town 11 35' 0" N 15 2' 3"W 
 
 Bulama Island 11 34 7 15 30 4 
 
 Bossessame, or (North Point... 11 29 15 30 
 
 Tombally ( S. W. Point ... 11 19 4 15 32 2 
 
 Gulinha Island, West Point 11 27 7 15 46 5 
 
 N.E. Hog Island, East Point... 11 20 15 40 7 
 
 Kanyabac Island, S.W. Point... 11 10 2 15 40 2 
 
 Orango Island, Cape Camelion, S. E. Point 11 3 10 15 55 10 
 
 West Point 11 60 16 15 
 
 R . r , ( S. Breakers off Orange Id. 10 56 3 15 57 5 
 
 "o n(le J West Breakers 11 31 30 16 56 
 
 lls ' ( South Breakers 10 42 20 16 18 10 
 
 Pullam Islands 10 51 42 15 45 5 
 
 Alcatraz Island, centre 10 37 10 15 26 30 
 
 Bank, rocky centre 10 30 15 10 
 
 Nunez River, entrance 10 36 14 42 20 
 
 Cape Verga 10 19 14 23 30 
 
 Pongas River, entrance South Point 10 7 13 58 5 
 
 Sangaree, Highest Peak 9 53 13 22 
 
 Isles de Los, Crawford Island 9 27 30 13 48 30 
 
 m T1 A ( North Point 9 31 13 40 30 
 
 Tamara Island j Westpomt 9 26 5 13 51 4 
 
 Matacong Island, centre 9 14 13 25 30 
 
 Parrot Island, centre 8 55 2 13 17 5 
 
 Cape Sierra Leone 8 30 13 18 30 
 
 King Tom's Point 8 30 6 13 14 30 
 
 Free Town Citadel 8 29 42 13 14 20 
 
 False Cape 8 25 50 13 17 50 
 
 Cape Schilling 8 9 30 13 10 10 
 
 , (Highest Peak 858 13 16 2 
 
 Banana Islands j w * tpoint 850 13 15 2 
 
 Plantain Islands, GiUmonis 7 55 12 13 0.10 
 
 Bengal Rocks, Western 7 54 6 13 2 8 
 
 Point Tasso 7 55 30 13 2 10 
 
 Turtle Islands, North Island, centre 7 40 48 13 4 20 
 
 Cape St. Ann 7 34 12 57 
 
 ( N. extreme 7 56 
 
 Js.e 
 
 Shoals from < S. extreme... 7 31 5 
 
 ( W. limit ... 7 48 13 29 
 
 Sherbro River, York Island, Huts 7 32 13 26 40 
 
 Sea Bar, South Point ... 7 22 48 12 31 25 
 
 Boom KittamR. Forks of 7 14 4 12 8 6 
 
 Cape Mount 6 44 40 11 25 
 
 St. Paul's River 6 22 10 36 5 
 
 Cape Mesurada 6 18 30 10 48 30 
 
 CapePalmas 4 24 7 46 10 
 
 Cape Lahou Town 5 12 4 36 
 
 Cape Three Points 4 45 2 4 15 
 
 Elmina Castle 550 1 22 30 
 
 Cape CcAst Castle 560 1 13 
 
 Accarah, English Factory 5 31 5 010 
 
 Volta River, entrance 5 47 18 42 18 E 
 
 Cape St. Paul's 5 45 52 18 
 
 Benin River, North Point 5 43 500
 
 411 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. 
 
 LATITUDE. 
 
 LONGITUDE. 
 
 Rio dos Escardos, North West Point 
 
 5 
 
 34' 
 
 2"N 
 
 5 
 
 12' 
 
 0"E 
 
 Rio Forcados, or Warree, S. W. Point... 
 
 5 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 19 
 
 4 
 
 Ramos River, entrance 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 30 
 
 5 
 
 23 
 
 18 
 
 Cape Formosa 
 
 4 
 
 21 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 New Calabar River, Foche Point 
 
 4 
 
 22 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 Bonny River, Rough Corner 
 
 4 
 
 23 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Old Calabar River, Tom Shot's Point ... 
 
 4 
 
 35 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 36 
 
 Rio del Rey, West Point 
 
 4 
 
 28 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 40 
 
 
 
 Cameroon Mountain, highest 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 River South East Point 
 
 3 
 
 49 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 32 
 
 24 
 
 
 St. John's Cape, near Corisco Bay ent 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 40 
 
 Corisco Island, centre 
 
 
 
 54 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 Cape Esterias 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 48 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 Gaboon River, Cape Clara 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 30 
 
 Nazareth River 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 12 S 
 
 8 
 
 57 
 
 50 
 
 Cape Lopez 
 
 
 
 36 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 40 
 
 
 
 Mayumba Bay, Metooti Point 
 
 3 
 
 22 
 
 40 
 
 10 
 
 35 
 
 
 
 Loango River, entrance 
 
 4 
 
 39 
 
 30 
 
 11 
 
 42 
 
 
 
 Congo River, Shark Point 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 5 
 
 CapeLagostas 
 
 8 
 
 45 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 Loando Island, North Point 
 
 8 
 
 46 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 
 a 
 
 4ft 
 
 
 
 1 ^ 
 
 
 n 
 
 Cape Palmarinhis 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 56 
 
 8 
 
 River Coauza 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Cape Ledo 
 
 9 
 
 46 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Cape St. Bras 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 Nova Redonda 
 
 11 
 
 36 
 
 42 
 
 13 
 
 44 
 
 40 
 
 B j | St. Phillip's Bonnet 
 
 12 
 
 34 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 ( Fort Flagstaff 
 
 12 
 
 33 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 Point Salmas 
 
 12 
 
 53 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 53 
 
 12 
 
 Friar's Islets 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 Cape Mary, Pillar 
 
 13 
 
 25 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 31 
 
 50 
 
 Cape Martha 
 
 13 
 
 54 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 23 
 
 30 
 
 Brown's Point, W. of Little Fish Bay ex. 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Cape Negro 
 
 15 
 
 40 
 
 42 
 
 11 
 
 53 
 
 20 
 
 Alexander Port, sand forming do. N. Pt. 
 
 15 
 
 47 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 46 
 
 30 
 
 Great Fish Bay, Tiger Island, N. Point 
 
 16 
 
 30 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 41 
 
 
 
 Cape Frio 
 
 18 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 57 
 
 10 
 
 Cape Cross 
 
 21 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 51 
 
 48 
 
 Walwich Bay, Pelican Point 
 
 22 
 
 52 
 
 30 
 
 14 
 
 22 
 
 5 
 
 Hollam's Bird Island, centre 
 
 24 
 
 37 
 
 24 
 
 14 
 
 27 
 
 10 
 
 Angra Peguena 
 
 26 
 
 38 
 
 30 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 30 
 
 Possession Island, South Point 
 
 26 
 
 58 
 
 30 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 30 
 
 Orange River, Dry Bar 
 
 28 
 
 38 
 
 30 
 
 16 
 
 22 
 
 30 
 
 Cape Voltas 
 
 28 
 
 44 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 26 
 
 39 
 
 Cape Donkin 
 
 31 
 
 54 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 CapeDeseada 
 
 32 
 
 18 
 
 25 
 
 18 
 
 17 
 
 
 
 Paternoster Point 
 
 32 
 
 42 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 49 
 
 10 
 
 Cape Castle 
 
 32 
 
 46 
 
 8 
 
 17 
 
 46 
 
 5 
 
 Saldanha Bay, North Point 
 
 33 
 
 1 
 
 50 
 
 17 
 
 48 
 
 30 
 
 Point Isser 
 
 33 
 
 22 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 5 
 
 40 
 
 Dassen Island, centre 
 
 33 
 
 26 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 30 
 
 Point Back 
 
 33 
 
 33 
 
 48 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Cape of Good Hope, Robben Island 
 
 33 
 
 47 
 
 50 
 
 18 
 
 17 
 
 30
 
 412 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Cape of Good Hope, Observatory 33 55' 12" S 18 23' 35" E 
 
 Green Point Lighthouse ... 33 53 10 18 19 30 
 
 Table Mount, Devil's Peak 33 57 12 18 21 30 
 
 Cape Town Castle Flagstaff 33 55 2 18 20 8 
 
 Cape Point, extreme 34 22 18 24 4 
 
 Bellows Rock 34 23 48 18 24 30 
 
 (Anvil Rock... 34 22 40 18 26 5 
 
 False Bay, Simon's Bay 1 Dock Yard... 34 11 18 18 21 
 
 ( Whittle Rock 34 16 30 18 29 
 
 34 8 6 18 30 2 
 
 ..34 9 7 18 31 
 
 AZORES, OR WESTERN ISLANDS. 
 
 Formigas, or Ants 37 16 50 N 24 54 18 W 
 
 (Town 36 58 25 12 33 
 
 St. Mary { South East Point 36 56 47 25 6 
 
 ( South West Point 36 57 31 25 14 18 
 
 St. Michael, West Point 37 54 2 25 55 5 
 
 D mn Air>A / Cit 7 3 7 45 10 25 41 30 
 
 PontadelGada { East Point 37 48 2 25 10 3 
 
 Terceira, Angra 38 39 27 14 
 
 St. George, South East Point 38 29 22 27 50 42 
 
 Pico, Peak Summit 38 26 15 28 28 13 
 
 Fayal, South East Point, Look-out-hill 38 30 12 28 41 52 
 
 Flores, North Point 39 33 29 31 8 30 
 
 Corvo, South Point 39 41 13 31 3 
 
 MADEIRA ISLANDS. 
 
 Madeira, Funchal, Loo Rock 32 37 7 N 16 55 5 W 
 
 Porte del Panrof W - Point - 32 49 17 U 30 
 
 arg )E. Point ... 32 43 50 16 38 2 
 
 Brazen Head, S.E. extreme... 32 37 18 16 51 42 
 
 Porto Santo, Governor's House 32 29 16 18 8 
 
 n /North Island 32 36 30 16 33 
 
 ^ | South Island 32 28 30 16 31 18 
 
 T,., (Eastern Rock 30 3 30 16 2 30 
 
 Salvages, Piton^ LIsIet 3Q ? ^ l& ^ ^ 
 
 CANARY ISLANDS. 
 
 , . ff / Santa Cruz, Mole Head 28 28 ON 16 15 
 
 te )Peak 28 16 25 16 39 
 
 Allegranza Island 29 25 3X) 13 31 
 
 Lanzarota, East Rock 28 48 13 17 
 
 (NorthPoint 28 52 30 17 56 
 
 Palma, 1 East Town 28 43 17 45 
 
 (West Town 28 38 17 57 
 
 Gomera Island, Port 28 5 40 17 7 
 
 Fuerta Ventura, South West Point 28 40 14 28 50 
 
 ( N. E. Point Islet 28 13 15 24 
 
 Canaria Island, < West Point 28 1 20 15 50 
 
 (South Point 27 45 15 37 30
 
 413 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 /Town 27 47' 20"N 17 56' 0"W 
 
 [West Point 27 44 18 9 
 
 CAPE DE VERD ISLANDS. 
 
 (NorthPoint 17 12 N 25 9 20 W 
 
 St. Antonio, -{ East Point 17 5 30 25 2 40 
 
 (West Point 17 4 25 25 45 
 
 TarafalBav I Station 16 56 48 25 22 30 
 
 Ba fr] South Point... 16 55 25 22 
 
 St. Vincent, Porto Grande, Custom-House 16 54 25 4 
 
 /NorthPoint 16 49 24 50 30 
 
 :ea ' \ East Point 16 46 24 45 
 
 Branca, centre 16 40 24 44 
 
 Raza, station 16 38 24 38 30 
 
 {NorthPoint 16 42 24 24 20 
 
 West Point 16 38 24 30 
 
 Monte Gorda 16 37 50 24 23 50 
 
 East Point 16 34 30 24 3 
 
 South Point 16 28 30 24 22 
 
 . ( Lion's Head 16 41 5 23 3 
 
 Is. of Sal: MordeiraBay^ N. Point ... 16 51 20 22 58 30 
 
 ( S. Point ... 16 34 15 23 
 
 ("Anchorage 16 7 22 59 30 
 
 N.W. Point 16 13 20 22 59 40 
 
 Bonavista: English Road -I N. E. Point 16 11 22 46 30 
 
 I Martinez H. 16 10 4 22 54 6 
 
 [S. Point ... 15 57 22 52 40 
 
 Leton Rocks 15 48 23 13 
 
 (Anchorage 15 7 30 23 17 
 
 Mayo: English RoadJ North Point ... 15 19 23 16 
 
 (South Point ... 15 6 40 23 14 
 
 (NorthPoint 15 19 30 23 49 30 
 
 St. Jago, -J East Point 15 30 23 29 
 
 ( South West Point 14 58 30 23 47 
 
 Porto Praya, Quail Island 14 53 40 23 34 
 
 Fogo, North Point 15 1 15 24 25 
 
 Luz Town Anchorage 14 53 24 34 
 
 Brava, Road 14 48 24 47 30 
 
 ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF GUINEA. 
 
 FERNANDO Po: 
 
 Maidstone Bay Anchorage 3 45 5 N 
 
 North East Point 3 45 3 
 
 West Point 3 21 2 
 
 South East Point 3 12 2 
 
 Cape Bullen 3 47 15 
 
 Point William, Flagstaff 3 45 36 
 
 Cape Horatio, North East extremity ... 3 46 9 
 
 Cape Vidal, East extremity 3 39 18 
 
 Cape Barrow, South Rock 3 11 30 
 
 Cape Eden, South West extremity 3 15 30 
 
 Cape Badgley, West extremity 3 19 42
 
 414 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. 
 
 LATITUDE. 
 
 LONGITUDE. 
 
 Charles' Folly, North West extremity... 3 26' 48" N 8 27' 40" E 
 
 Goat Isle, centre 3 31 
 
 PRINCE'S ISLAND The Brothers 1 23 
 
 ST. THOMAS'S ISLAND Cabrita Isle 27 
 
 Mansion House 27 
 
 27 
 
 8 32 48 
 
 7 19 48 
 
 6 39 48 
 
 6 44 7 
 
 6 49 
 
 ANNABONA Road 1 25 S 5 42 48 
 
 BERMUDAS. 
 
 Wreck Hill, the Western extremity of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the Land 
 
 32 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 N 64 
 
 47 
 
 
 
 W 
 
 The Long Bar, the South Western ex- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 tremity of the Rocks 
 
 32 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 54 
 
 
 
 
 The South West Breaker 
 
 32 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 
 The Southern extremity of the Land ... 
 
 32 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 64 
 
 46 
 
 40 
 
 
 St. David's Head, the Eastern extremity 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 of the Land 
 
 32 
 
 21 
 
 20 
 
 64 
 
 35 
 
 40 
 
 
 Catherine Point, the Northern extremity 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 of the Land 
 
 32 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 33 
 
 
 
 
 Town of St. George 
 
 32 
 
 22 
 
 20 
 
 64 
 
 37 
 
 40 
 
 
 North Rock, the Northern extremity of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the Rocks 
 
 32 
 
 29 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 42 
 
 50 
 
 
 Mill's Breaker, the Eastern extremity of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the Rocks 
 
 32 
 
 27 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 
 GREENLAND, LABRADOR, AND 
 
 NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Cape Farewell 
 
 59 
 
 49 
 
 12 
 
 N 43 
 
 53 
 
 40 
 
 W 
 
 John Mayen's Isle 
 
 71 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 49 
 
 
 
 
 Button's Islands 
 
 60 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 55 
 
 
 
 
 Cape Chidley 
 
 60 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 65 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 Port Manvers 
 
 56 
 
 58 
 
 
 
 62 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Nain 
 
 56 
 
 24 
 
 
 
 61 
 
 48 
 
 
 
 
 Leveret Islet 
 
 53 
 
 50 
 
 40 
 
 56 
 
 32 
 
 
 
 
 Wolf Island 
 
 53 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 37 
 
 
 
 
 Spotted Island 
 
 53 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 55 
 
 26 
 
 30 
 
 
 Round Hill Island 
 
 53 
 
 25 
 
 20 
 
 55 
 
 21 
 
 
 
 
 Hawke Island 
 
 53 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 55 
 
 26 
 
 
 
 
 Cape St. Michael 
 
 52 
 
 47 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 27 
 
 
 
 
 Cape St. Francis 
 
 52 
 
 37 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 23 
 
 30 
 
 
 Point Spear 
 
 52 
 
 32 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 20 
 
 30 
 
 
 Cape St. Louis 
 
 52 
 
 25 
 
 30 
 
 55 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 Cape Charles Island 
 
 52 
 
 16 
 
 40 
 
 55 
 
 17 
 
 
 
 
 Barge Point 
 
 51 
 
 47 
 
 30 
 
 56 
 
 2 
 
 30 
 
 
 Forteau Point 
 
 51 
 
 27 
 
 
 
 56 
 
 54 
 
 
 
 
 Great Mecatina Point 
 
 .50 
 
 44 
 
 28 
 
 58 
 
 59 
 
 27 
 
 
 NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Cape Norman 
 
 51 
 
 37 
 
 
 
 N 55 
 
 48 
 
 
 
 w 
 
 Cape Bauld 
 
 51 
 
 38 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 
 Needles' Rocks 
 
 51 
 
 26 
 
 5 
 
 55 
 
 22 
 
 45 
 
 
 Braha Shoal 
 
 51 
 
 25 
 
 40 
 
 55 
 
 20 
 
 

 
 415 
 
 NAMES OP PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Cape St. Antony 51 21' 0"N 55 28' 0" W 
 
 Goose Cape 51 17 55 32 
 
 How Harbour 51 20 55 51 
 
 Fishotlsle 51 12 30 55 34, 30 
 
 Croque Harbour 51 3 55 41 
 
 Groaislsle 50 59 55 27 
 
 Belle Isle, N. Point 50 48 55 23 
 
 Kouge Island, N. Point 50 54 55 42 
 
 Canada Head 50 M 56 ' 2 
 
 Fourchet Harbour 50 30 56 10 
 
 OrangeBay 50 22 56 20 
 
 Cat Head 50 7 56 34 30 
 
 Cape St. John 50 10 55 28 
 
 Toulinguet or Twilingate Islands 50 30 54 40 
 
 Fago or Fogo Island 50 00 53 54 
 
 Cape Freels, South Bill 49 18 40 53 24 
 
 Cape Bonavista 48 42 52 56 
 
 Cape St. Francis 47 48 4 52 43 41 
 
 St. John's Church 47 34 30 52 44 
 
 Cape Spear 47 30 53 52 33 30 
 
 Bull Head 47 18 52 41 19 
 
 Cape Broyle, N. Point 47 3 52 52 47 27 
 
 CapeBallard 46 47 52 53 20 
 
 Cape Race 46 40 52 59 10 
 
 Cape Race Rocks 46 30 51 30 
 
 TrepasseyBay 46 43 30 53 16 
 
 Cape Pine 46 37 14 53 30 
 
 Cape St. Mary 46 49 25 54 8 45 
 
 Point Bream 46 58 54 11 
 
 Cape Chapeau Rouge 46 54 19 55 20 30 
 
 St. Peter's Lighthouse ...'. 46 46 52 56 8 44 
 
 Little Miquelon, S. Point 46 47 56 19 
 
 Burnt Island 47 16 56 
 
 Fortune Head 47 9 55 51 30 
 
 Penguin Islands 47 24 57 
 
 Cape Ray 47 37 30 59 17 2 
 
 Cape St. George 48 28 54 59 14 26 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 QUEBEC 46 47 30 N 71 10 W 
 
 ISLAND OP ANTICOSTI: 
 
 West Point 49 52 64 33 55 
 
 NorthPoint 49 57 38 64 11 1 
 
 South West Point 49 23 63 43 
 
 South Point !",.... 49 40 62 18 
 
 Island of Anticosti, East point 49 8 30 61 42 57 
 
 NEW BRUNSWICK, &c. 
 
 Cape Gaspe, S. E. Point 48 45 14 64 9 38 
 
 Bonaventure Island, N. W. Point 48 29 30 64 9 37 
 
 Point Miscou 48 1 27 64 31 49 
 
 Point Escuminac, at the entrance of 
 
 Miramichi 47 5 2 64 49 30 
 
 Cape St. George, formerly Louis 45 51 22 61 51 12
 
 416 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 The North end of the Gut of Canso 45 42' 0" N 61 26' 0" W 
 
 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND : 
 
 East Point 46 27 30 61 56 8 
 
 Charlotte Town 46 16 63 10 
 
 Cape North 47 4 20 64 15 
 
 BRETON ISLAND: 
 
 Cape North 47 2 13 60 22 53 
 
 Siboux Isles, at the entrance of St. 
 
 Anne's Bay 46 24 20 60 25 30 
 
 Scatari Island, off Cape Breton... 46 1 30 59 40 
 
 Louisbourg Old Lighthouse 45 53 31 59 55 48 
 
 Albion Cliff, S. side of Isle Madame 45 28 12 61 1 
 
 Ship Harbour in Gut of Canso 45 36 24 61 20 25 
 
 THE MAGDALEN ISLANDS, &c. 
 
 Biron Island, N. E. Point 47 48 61 25 
 
 Bird's Island 47 50 28 61 11 53 
 
 Entry Island, S. W. point 47 16 7 61 43 26 
 
 St. Paul's Island 47 13 38 60 11 24 
 
 NOVA SCOTIA AND BAY OF FUNDY. 
 
 ISLE OF SABLE: 
 
 East end 43 59 15 N 60 2 30 W 
 
 West end 43 56 30 60 31 
 
 Crow Harbour, Chedabucto Bay 45 20 45 61 15 20 
 
 Cranberry Island Light ..45 19 33 60 54 38 
 
 Cape Canso 45 16 30 60 56 
 
 Raspberry Harbour, Point Gell 45 13 30 61 3 15 
 
 Berry Head, West Side, Torbay 45 10 44 61 17 9 
 
 Cape Mocodome, Country Harbour 45 5 20 61 40 28 
 
 S. W. Point Liscombe Harbour 44 57 61 55 
 
 Mariet Joseph 44 56 40 62 2 
 
 Cape Spry 44 48 25 62 33 15 
 
 JedoreHead 44 40 5 63 1 10 
 
 Halifax, Naval Yard 44 39 26 63 33 48 
 
 Cape Sambro Lighthouse 44 27 63 33 
 
 Holderness Island, Margaret's Bay, South 
 
 West side ..' 44 34 25 63 55 30 
 
 Green Island, Mahone Bay 44 23 30 64 1 
 
 Cross Island, S. Point, off Lunenberg 
 
 Harbour 44 19 30 64 8 45 
 
 CapeLeHeve 44 11 8 64 19 43 
 
 Port Metway, S. W. Head 44 6 24 64 31 9 
 
 Coffin's Island, Lighthouse 44 1 52 64 36 49 
 
 Mouton, or Matoon Island, S. Point 43 55 64 44 
 
 Point Hebert 43 51 10 64 51 20 
 
 Shelburne, or Cape Rose way Lighthouse 43 37 30 65 14 40 
 
 Cape Negro 43 31 65 17 30 
 
 Cape Sable 43 23 57 65 34 3 
 
 BrasilRock 43 21 30 65 22 
 
 Seal Island, South Point 43 23 51 65 55 42 
 
 Cape Fourchu, near Yarmouth 43 48 66 9 
 
 Cape St. Mary 44 4 15 66 11 
 
 Bryer's Island, Lighthouse 44 13 51 66 22 54
 
 417 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Annapolis, Lighthouse 44 40' 25" N 65 46' 15"W 
 
 Cape Split, Mines Channel 45 17 30 64 22 
 
 Cape Chignecto 45 18 64 49 30 
 
 Apple River, entrance 45 27 64 43 
 
 Cumberland, Fort 45 44 64 9 
 
 St. John's, New Brunswick, Point Mas- 
 peck, on the East side 45 12 30 65 59 15 
 
 THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Mount Desert Rock 
 
 43 
 
 51 
 
 N 
 
 68 
 
 6 
 
 W 
 
 Isleboro', or Long Island, in the Bay of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Penobscot, a Point on the E. side 
 
 44 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 68 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 White Head, Lighthouse 
 
 43 
 
 59 
 
 
 
 68 
 
 58 
 
 15 
 
 Portland Lighthouse 
 
 43 
 
 36 
 
 30 
 
 70 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Cape Elizabeth 
 
 43 
 
 33 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Cashe's Ledge, 12 feet water 
 
 43 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 69 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Boon Island Lighthouse 
 
 43 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 29 
 
 
 
 Portsmouth, Light 
 
 43 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 70 
 
 42 
 
 
 
 Newbury Port Lights 
 
 42 
 
 47 
 
 45 
 
 70 
 
 48 
 
 30 
 
 Cape Anne, Lights 
 
 42 
 
 39 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 34 
 
 
 
 Boston, Beacon Hill 
 
 42 
 
 22 
 
 35 
 
 70 
 
 59 
 
 35 
 
 Boston Harbour Lighthouse 
 
 42 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 58 
 
 30 
 
 Cambridge 
 
 42 
 
 23 
 
 28 
 
 71 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Cape Cod High Lighthouse 
 
 42 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Providence 
 
 41 
 
 50 
 
 40 
 
 71 
 
 25 
 
 20 
 
 Long Island Lighthouse 
 
 42 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 71 
 
 55 
 
 40 
 
 Five Islands Inlet Lighthouse 
 
 40 
 
 35 
 
 
 
 73 
 
 40 
 
 
 
 NEW YORK, Colombia College 
 
 40 
 
 42 
 
 20 
 
 74 
 
 3 
 
 31 
 
 Sandy Hook Lighthouse 
 
 40 
 
 27 
 
 40 
 
 74 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Cape May Lighthouse 
 
 38 
 
 57 
 
 
 
 74 
 
 55 
 
 45 
 
 Cape Henlopen Lighthouse 
 
 38 
 
 46 
 
 30 
 
 75 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 PHILADELPHIA 
 
 39 
 
 56 
 
 54 
 
 75 
 
 10 
 
 30 
 
 Cape Henry Lighthouse 
 
 36 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 76 
 
 
 
 
 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 38 
 
 52 
 
 45 
 
 77 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 Cape Hatteras Lighthouse 
 
 35 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 75 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 Cape Fear Lighthouse 
 
 33 
 
 51 
 
 15 
 
 78 
 
 1 
 
 40 
 
 Frying Pan, or Cape Fear Shoals, S. end 
 
 33 
 
 36 
 
 
 
 77 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 George Town Lighthouse 
 
 33 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 2 
 
 40 
 
 Cape Roman Light 
 
 33 
 
 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 17 
 
 
 
 Charleston Lighthouse 
 
 32 
 
 40 
 
 49 
 
 79 
 
 46 
 
 30 
 
 Savanna, Tybee Lighthouse 
 
 32 
 
 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 51 
 
 
 
 Cumberland Island Lighthouse 
 
 30 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 81 
 
 38 
 
 30 
 
 River Nassau, entrance 
 
 30 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 81 
 
 33 
 
 
 
 River St. Juan, or St. John 
 
 30 
 
 21 
 
 
 
 81 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 St. Augustin Light 
 
 29 
 
 54 
 
 
 
 81 
 
 25 
 
 30 
 
 Matanza Inlet 
 
 29 
 
 42 
 
 
 
 81 
 
 19 
 
 30 
 
 Cape Canaveral 
 
 28 
 
 17 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 Cape Florida 
 
 25 
 
 46 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Sable Point, or Punta Tanch a 
 
 25 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 81 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Dry Tortugas Lighthouse ."... 
 
 24 
 
 36 
 
 
 
 83 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tortugas Bank , Shoalest part 
 
 24 
 
 31 
 
 
 
 83 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Bar of Pensacola 
 
 30 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 87 
 
 33 
 
 
 
 Bar of Mobile 
 
 30 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 88 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 3 G 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 418 
 
 NAMES OP PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Mississippi, Balise, or S. E. entrance ...29 7' 30" N 89 10' 0"W 
 
 NEW ORLEANS 29 57 30 90 6 17 
 
 THE WEST INDIES. 
 
 LITTLE BAHAMA BANK : 
 
 Maternillo Bank, North end of. 27 51 N 79 10 OW 
 
 Maternillo Reef, North West end 27 34 79 9 
 
 Outer part of the Western Reef. 27 5 79 12 
 
 Memory Rock 26 55 79 2 
 
 West end of Grand Bahama 26 41 79 1 
 
 South East Point of Grand Bahama 26 28 78 40 
 
 Hole in the Rock or Wall 25 50 77 7 
 
 North East Point of Great Abaco 26 19 76 55 
 
 Elbow Reef, Outer Point 26 33 76 51 
 
 GREAT BAHAMA BANK: 
 
 Eleuthera, South East Point 24 38 76 9 
 
 , Governor's Harbour 25 12 76 12 
 
 Harbour Island, North Point 25 30 76 36 
 
 Egg Island Reef, extremity 25 33 45 76 55 30 
 
 Douglas Passage, entrance 25 8 30 77 5 45 
 
 New Providence, Nassau Lighthouse ... 25 5 77 22 15 
 
 Berry Islands, Frozen Kay 25 32 77 35 30 
 
 Great Stirrup Kay, N. E. end 25 50 77 53 
 
 Great Isaac, centre of 26 2 30 79 3 
 
 Bernini Isles, Mosselle Reef 25 50 79 15 
 
 Riding Rocks 25 11 79 8 
 
 Orange Kays, middle 24 55 30 79 7 
 
 Roquillos, or Little Rocks 24 52 79 6 
 
 Guincho, or Ginger Kay 22 47 77 57 
 
 Lobos, or Seals' Kay 22 24 77 29 
 
 Mucaras, or Diamond Point 22 90 77 12 
 
 Kay of St. Domingo 21 43 75 45 
 
 Kayo Verde, East end 22 10 75 10 30 
 
 THE JUMENTOS: 
 
 Brothers' Rocks 22 10 75 40 
 
 Kay Sal, or Ragged Island 22 11 30 75 41 
 
 Man-of- War Kay, North end 22 17 20 75 48 40 
 
 YUMA, OR LONG ISLAND: 
 
 South Point 22 
 
 Great Harbour, entrance 23 
 
 Michael Bank, 12 fathoms 23 
 
 North end 23 
 
 PASSAGE ISLANDS: 
 
 Little St. Salvador, N. W. Point 24 34 38 75 51 
 
 St. Salvador, Columbus, or S.E. Point... 24 8 75 17 30 
 
 Hawk's Nest, or S.W. Point 24 10 75 33 
 
 Conception Island, South end.... 23 48 46 75 6 W 
 
 Southampton Reef, N. end 23 56 75 7 ' 
 
 Rum Kay, South East White Cliffs 23 38 40 74 47 20 
 
 Watling's Island, North end 24 10 30 74 28 30 
 
 South West Point 23 56 74 34 
 
 SAMANA, OR ATWOOD'S KAYS: 
 
 Eastern Point 23 5 10 73 48
 
 419 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 SouthernReef 23 1' 45* N 73 51' 0" W 
 
 Plana, or Flat Kay 22 35 10 73 37 
 
 CROOKED ISLAND : 
 
 Extremity of the North East Reef 22 43 73 47 
 
 North East Point of Crooked Island 22 44 30 73 54 20 
 
 Bird Rock, off North West Point 22 51 74 22 15 
 
 Fortune Isle, South Point 22 33 74 23 
 
 Castle Isle 22 7 30 74 18 45 
 
 MIRAPORVOS : 
 
 North Rock 22 7 50 74 31 40 
 
 South Kay, Sand Hills 22 50 74 31 15 
 
 Shoal, South East end 21 58 30 74 28 30 
 
 Diana, or Monkey Bank 22 31 30 74 46 
 
 Mariguana Island, S. W. Point 22 21 30 73 14 
 
 Eastern end of East Reef 22 17 72 38 
 
 The Hogsties, West Point 21 41 73 51 
 
 GREAT INAGUA, OR HENEAGUA: 
 
 North West Point 21 80 73 40 
 
 South West Point 20 55 73 38 30 
 
 South East Point 20 58 73 9 
 
 LITTLE INAGUA, OR HENEAGUA: 
 
 East Point 21 28 30 72 55 30 
 
 West Point 21 30 73 5 
 
 THE CAYCOS: 
 
 Northern end of the Reef 21 59 71 57 
 
 Little Caycos, South West Point 21 37 72 28 
 
 Southern Kays, West end 21 10 71 51 
 
 South East Elbow of the Bank 21 10 71 32 
 
 Cape Comet 21 45 71 26 
 
 TURK'S ISLANDS: 
 
 Sand Kay 21 11 71 13 
 
 SaltKay 21 18 71 8 
 
 Grand Kay, Roadstead 21 28 10 71 7 
 
 Square Handkerchief, S. W. corner 20 53 70 55 40 
 
 , N. E. corner 21 60 70 26 
 
 SILVER KAY, OR PLATE BANK : 
 
 Westend 20 30 30 69 59 
 
 South East end 20 13 50 69 35 
 
 North East end , 20 33 69 18 
 
 CUBA AND JAMAICA. 
 
 CapedeCsuz 19 47 16 N 77 40 30 W 
 
 Peak of Tarquino 19 52 57 ,76 45 30 
 
 St Jago de Cuba, entrance 19 57 29 76 2 45 
 
 Port Guantanamo 19 54 5 75 14 30 
 
 Cape Maysi, or Maize 20 13 30 74 1 
 
 Port de Navas, entrance 20 29 44 74 27 52 
 
 Port de Jaragua, entrance 20 32 44 74 36 30 
 
 Point Guarico.: 20 39 74 41 
 
 Port de Nipe, entrance 20 44 40 75 29 
 
 Point Mulas 21 7 30 75 35 
 
 Cayo Verde, East end 22 00 75 13 30 
 
 Cayo de St. Domingo 21 45 74 44
 
 420 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Cayo de Lobos, or Seal Kay 22 24' O'N 77 29' 0" W 
 
 Cayo de Guincho, or Ginger Kay 22 47 77 56 10 
 
 Porto de Naranjo, entrance 21 5 23 75 53 10 
 
 Port de Jurura, entrance 21 3 39 76 2 30 
 
 Port del Padre, entrance 21 15 40 76 26 30 
 
 PortdeMunati 21 23 44 76 44 
 
 Point Maternillos 21 39 76 59 30 
 
 Cayo Romano, South East Point 21 53 77 36 
 
 Cayo Verde, or Green Kay 22 5 6 77 36 15 
 
 Double-headed Shot, N. W. Kay 23 57 80 21 
 
 Cayo de Sal, or Salt Kay 23 39 8 80 10 
 
 Cayo Cruz del Padre 23 14 80 56 30 
 
 Pan of Matanzas 23 1 39 81 34 30 
 
 HAVANNA, Lighthouse 23 8 18 82 22 4 
 
 Bahia Honda 22 58 49 83 6 40 
 
 Cape Antonio 21 54 84 57 30 
 
 Cape Corrientes .. v 21 48 84 29 20 
 
 Point Piedras 21 56 30 83 50 
 
 Cayo de St. Felipe, West end 21 59 83 33 
 
 Indian Kays, North end 21 54 30 83 15 
 
 Point Indus, Isle of Pines 21 49 83 4 
 
 Punta Francis 21 42 83 9 
 
 Cape Pepe, Isle of Pines 21 28 83 
 
 Isle of Pine^, South East Point 21 23 30 82 27 
 
 Bahia de Jagua, or Xagua 22 1 80 35 37 
 
 Cayo Blanco 21 33 45 79 58 30 
 
 Cayo Blanco de Zarxa 21 31 40 79 44 15 
 
 Cayo Breton, South Point 21 3 10 79 32 42 
 
 Boca ^Grande, entrance 20 57 30 79 23 
 
 Grand Cayman, East end 19 18 30 81 5 
 
 South West Kay, or Point 19 15 81 29 
 
 JAMAICA AND ISLES ADJACENT: 
 
 Morant Kays, North East Kay 17 26 30 75 54 
 
 South West Kay 17 23 45 75 56 
 
 Morant, or East Point of Jamaica 1758 76 6 
 
 South East, or Folly Point 17 56 30 76 5 
 
 Yallah's Point 17 52 76 28 
 
 Port Royal 17 55 7 76 49 
 
 KINGSTON, Church 17 57 57 76 46 10 
 
 Portland Point ! 17 42 30 77 7 30 
 
 Pedro Bluff 17 50 30 77 49 
 
 Black River 18 1 10 77 56 
 
 John's Point 18 11 30 78 22 
 
 North Negril 18 24 78 30 
 
 South Negril 18 15 45 78 32 
 
 Montego Bay Point 18 32 30 78 2 30 
 
 Galina Point 18 29 30 76 54 
 
 North East End or Point 18 12 76 16 30 
 
 Formigas, North East Point 18 34 30 75 38 
 
 , South East Point 18 28 30 75 40 
 
 , South West Point 18 28 75 48 
 
 Navaza, centre 18 23 15 75 6 
 
 SHOALS SOUTHWARD OP JAMAICA : 
 
 Portland Rock 17 7 30 77 26
 
 421 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Baxo Nueva, or New Shoal, Sandy Kay 15 52' 20" N 78 37' 58" W 
 Serranilla, East part 15 45 20 79 50 15 
 
 HAYTI, OR ST. DOMINGO, PORTO RICO, &c. 
 
 Isle of Sama, South East Point 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 61 
 
 31 
 
 30 
 
 Isle of Santa Catalina, West Point 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 69 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ST. DOMINGO 
 
 18 
 
 28 
 
 40 
 
 69 
 
 59 
 
 37 
 
 Punta de Salinas 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 40 
 
 70 
 
 49 
 
 30 
 
 Alto-vela, or Little Mount 
 
 17 
 
 28 
 
 11 
 
 71 
 
 40 
 
 30 
 
 Cape Jaquemel 
 
 18 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 72 
 
 33 
 
 30 
 
 Aquin Bay 
 
 18 
 
 13 
 
 28 
 
 73 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 St. Louis, the Old Fort 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 27 
 
 73 
 
 31 
 
 30 
 
 Les Cayes, the Town 
 
 18 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 73 
 
 44 
 
 
 
 Isle a Vache 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 73 
 
 31 
 
 30 
 
 Point a Gravois 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 73 
 
 55 
 
 
 
 Cape Tiburon 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 25 
 
 74 
 
 27 
 
 32 
 
 Point des Iros 
 
 18 
 
 22 
 
 23 
 
 74 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 Cape Dame Marie, or Donna Maria 
 
 18 
 
 37 
 
 25 
 
 74 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 Point Jeremie 
 
 18 
 
 39 
 
 58 
 
 74 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Pirogues (Rochelois Reef) 
 
 18 
 
 37 
 
 20 
 
 73 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Isle of Gonave, North East Point 
 
 18 
 
 48 
 
 35 
 
 72 
 
 49 
 
 47 
 
 PORT AU PRINCE (Road) 
 
 18 
 
 33 
 
 42 
 
 72 
 
 23 
 
 45 
 
 Arcadians, Southernmost 
 
 18 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 38 
 
 30 
 
 Point St. Mark's 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 72 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 Port a Piment 
 
 19 
 
 35 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 57 
 
 3 
 
 St. Nicolas Mole Point 
 
 19 
 
 49 
 
 20 
 
 73 
 
 27 
 
 30 
 
 Port Paix, Carenage Point 
 
 19 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 43 
 
 o 
 
 Tortuga Island, West Point 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 20 
 
 72 
 
 54 
 
 56 
 
 .... _ , Fnat Point 
 
 20 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 72 
 
 34 
 
 10 
 
 
 Cape Haytien, City 
 
 19 
 
 46 
 
 20 
 
 72 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 The Grange Point 
 
 19 
 
 54 
 
 35 
 
 71 
 
 43 
 
 10 
 
 Point Isabella 
 
 19 
 
 58 
 
 45 
 
 71 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Old Cape Francois ." 
 
 19 
 
 40 
 
 30 
 
 69 
 
 56 
 
 30 
 
 Cape Cabron 
 
 19 
 
 22 
 
 
 
 69 
 
 12 
 
 50 
 
 Cape Samana 
 
 19 
 
 15 
 
 40 
 
 69 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 Cape Enganno 
 
 18 
 
 34 
 
 30 
 
 68 
 
 20 
 
 30 
 
 Point Espada 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 48 
 
 68 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 PORTO Rico: 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cape St. Juan, North East Point 
 
 18 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 65 
 
 39 
 
 
 
 Point Bruquin, or North West Point ... 
 
 18 
 
 31 
 
 18 
 
 67 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Isle Desecho, or Zacheo 
 
 18 
 
 23 
 
 48 
 
 67 
 
 27 
 
 30 
 
 Aguadilla, Town 
 
 18 
 
 25 
 
 10 
 
 67 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 Point Algarroba 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 67 
 
 7 
 
 30 
 
 Puerto Gmanica, East Point 
 
 17 
 
 57 
 
 44 
 
 66 
 
 52 
 
 45 
 
 Caxa de Muertos, or Coffin, S. W. Point 
 
 17 
 
 50 
 
 30 
 
 66 
 
 35 
 
 
 
 CARIBEE AND VIRGIN 
 
 ISLANDS. 
 
 Anegada, South East Point 
 
 18 
 
 43 
 
 48 
 
 N 64 
 
 16 
 
 30 
 
 
 18 
 
 46 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 26 
 
 
 
 
 Virgin Gorda, East Point 
 
 18 
 
 31 
 
 7 
 
 64 
 
 21 
 
 30 
 
 St. John's, South East Point 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 44 
 
 20 
 
 W
 
 422 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 St. Thomas's (Harbour) 18 21' 16"N65 0' 0" W 
 
 St. Croix, or Santa Crux, Christianstad... 17 44 8 64 43 30 
 
 Sombrero 18 38 63 29 30 
 
 Anguilla, S. W. Point 18 11 C3 16 
 
 St. Martin's, North East Point 18 16 63 12 30 
 
 Saba 17 39 20 63 19 
 
 St. Bartholomew, East Point 17 54 62 52 
 
 St. Eustatius (Road) 17 29 30 63 4 30 
 
 St. Christopher's, Basse Terre 17 19 30 62 49 30 
 
 Nevis, Charles Town 17 10 30 62 43 
 
 Redonda 16 55 30 62 26 
 
 Monserrat, North East Point 16 48 62 16 40 
 
 Antigua, St. John's Road 17 9 40 61 56 ' 30 
 
 Desirade, or Deseada, N. E. Point 16 20 61 6 30 
 
 Guadaloupe, Basse Terre : 15 59 30 61 47 30 
 
 , South East Point 16 11 61 15 
 
 , North East Point 16 30 61 32 
 
 Marie-galante, Basse Terre 15 52 15 61 22 
 
 The Samtes Western, S. W. Point 15 51 20 61 44 
 
 Dominica, Road of Roseau 15 18 23 61 28 
 
 , Prince Rupert's Bay 15 35 30 61 33 
 
 Martinique, Fort Royal 14 35 55 61 7 30 
 
 , Cape Salinas 14 23 50 60 56 10 
 
 St. Lucia, Port Moulacique, or S. Point 13 35 61 2 
 
 , Carenage 13 57 61 7 
 
 St. Vincent, Kingston 13 90 61 15 
 
 Barbadoes, Bridgetown 13 5 30 59 43 15 
 
 Grenada, Fort St. George 12 2 54 61 49 40 
 
 Tobago, Man-of- War Bay 11 22 60 32 
 
 , North East Point 11 23 60 27 
 
 , South West Point 11 90 60 52 
 
 Trinidad : Galera, or N. E. Point 10 50 20 60 56 35 
 
 Point de la Galeota, or S. W. Point 10 9 30 61 50 
 
 LEEWARD ISLANDS. 
 
 Boca de Navois, or Ship Channel 10 41 45 N 61 48 W 
 
 Port au Spain ...10 38 45 61 34 15 
 
 Testigos Islands, N. E. Point 11 24 30 63 9 30 
 
 Margarita Pampatar 10 59 15 63 53 30 
 
 , NorthPoint 11 10 30 63 58 30 
 
 , Point de Arenas or Sandy Point 10 59 64 29 30 
 
 Blanquilla, North Point 11 54 30 64 41 50 
 
 Tortuga, S. E. Point 10 55 65 16 50 
 
 Orchilla, North East Breakers 11 49 66 9 30 
 
 Shoal of Two Fathoms 12 9 15 66 9 20 
 
 Los Roques, or Roccas, N. E. Islet 11 58 40 66 42 20 
 
 ISLAS DE AVES (BlRD's ISLANDS) : 
 
 Windward Isle 11 57 30 67 31 20 
 
 Leeward Isle 11 59 30 67 45 35 
 
 Buen-ayre, North Point 12 19 15 68 30 
 
 Curazao, North Point 12 24 69 16 20 
 
 Bay of St. Anne, entrance 12 6 20 68 3 
 
 Little Curazao, North End 12 69 44 30
 
 423 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Oruba, the South East Point 12 23' 45" N 70 0' 0" W 
 
 COLOMBIA, MEXICO, &c. 
 
 CapeNorth 1 51 N 50 9 W 
 
 St. Louis Oyapok Fort 3 57 51 41 
 
 Cayenne Flagstaff 4 56 19 52 14 45 
 
 Brains Point, Surinam 5 56 55 15 
 
 Paramaribo 5 47 30 55 13 30 
 
 Corobana Point, Demerary 6 48 58 1 35 
 
 BocadeGuayma 8 25 59 52 
 
 Eiver Orinoco, Point Barima 8 44 30 60 3 
 
 Cape Three Points 10 45 15 62 46 
 
 Cape Malapasqua 10 42 50 63 6 35 
 
 Cumana 10 27 37 64 15 15 
 
 Isle Borracha, North East Point 10 19 30 64 49 20 
 
 Barcelona 10 13 15 64 48 20 
 
 Piritu Isles, centre 10 90 65 1 35 
 
 Isle Unare, centre 10 5 30 65 21 15 
 
 Cape Codera 10 35 54 66 11 30 
 
 Point Chuspa 10 39 30 66 25 30 
 
 LaGuayraRoad 10 37 67 1 35 
 
 City Caracas (St. Jago de Leon) 10 30 67 55 
 
 Puerto de Turiamo 10 29 10 67 57 20 
 
 Puerto Cabello 10 29 45 68 7 35 
 
 Punta de St. Juan 11 90 68 31 35 
 
 Punta del Manzanillo 11 31 15 69 24 5 
 
 Cape St. Roman 12 11 70 8 35 
 
 Punta de la Macolla 12 5 70 21 20 
 
 Santa Anna de Cora 11 24 69 49 50 
 
 Fort or Castle of Zapara 10 58 30 72 31 30 
 
 Maracaybo 10 39 71 45 
 
 Punta de Espada 12 4 71 11 50 
 
 Bahia Honda 12 20 71 50 35 
 
 Cape La Vela 12 11 72 15 35 
 
 Rio de La Hacha, Town 11 33 30 72 58 55 
 
 Cape St. Augustin 11 16 73 40 5 
 
 Cape de la Aguja 11 18 30 74 16 20 
 
 Santa Marta 11 15 74 17 35 
 
 Rio Magdalena, Boca de Ceniza 11 5 20 74 56 20 
 
 Punta de Savanilla 11 20 75 3 
 
 CascabelRock 10 55 10 75 7 45 
 
 Palmarito Shoal 10 51 45 75 19 
 
 Punta de la Galera 10 47 75 29 5 
 
 Cartagena 10 26 75 37 5 
 
 Salmedina Bank (Two Fathoms) 10 23 75 44 35 
 
 Boca Chica, entrance 10 19 30 75 40 7 
 
 Islas del Rosario, larger 10 11 75 49 35 
 
 Puerto de Aspata, entrance 9 25 75 51 55 
 
 IslaFuerte 9 23 30 76 15 5 
 
 Punta Arenas, Gulf of Darien 8 33 77 5 
 
 CapeTiburon 8 41 15 77 26 35 
 
 Puerto Carreto 8 47 15 77 38 35 
 
 Punta St. Bias, East Point 9 34 36 79 2 5
 
 424 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Punta del Manzanillo 9 39' 30"N7936' 50" W 
 
 Puerto Velo, or Porto Bello 9 34 29 79 43 40 
 
 Chagres 9 21 80 4 5 
 
 Roncador, North end of the Reef 13 35 7 80 3 3 
 
 Serranilla, East side 15 45 20 79 51 15 
 
 Cape Gracias a Dios 14 55 82 45 
 
 Cape Camaron 16 2 85 14 
 
 Truxillo 15 54 86 2 
 
 Swan Islands, North East extremity ... 17 26 83 41 
 
 , South West extremity ... 17 17 83 45 
 
 Albion Bank, East North East end 18 55 83 9 
 
 , West South West end ... 18 53 83 16 
 
 Guanaja, or Bonacca, North East Point 16 31 20 85 55 30 
 
 Ruatan, South West Point 16 16 86 51 
 
 Half-moon Kay, on the Eastern Reef 
 
 Lighthouse 17 12 45 87 33 
 
 KayBokel 17 9 40 87 56 
 
 English Kay 17 20 88 2 30 
 
 Glover's Reef, North East end 16 53 30 87 35 
 
 Balize, Fort George 17 29 29 88 11 15 
 
 Cozumel, North end 20 39 86 44 
 
 Punta Brava 21 00 86 44 
 
 CapeCatoche 21 34 86 57 30 
 
 Campeche, Town 19 51 90 30 
 
 Javinal Point 19 12 30 90 56 30 
 
 Punta de Xicalango 18 41 30 91 54 
 
 Barra de St. Pedro 18 40 92 29 30 
 
 Barra de Tabasco 18 34 16 92 39 13 
 
 Rio Tupilco, entrance 18 25 93 25 
 
 La Barilla 18 90 94 35 
 
 Punta de St. Juan 18 18 94 38 
 
 Barra de Alvarado 18 46 95 43 
 
 Vera Cruz, Lighthouse 19 12 15 96 7 12 
 
 Xalapa 19 30 8 96 8 
 
 Peak of Orizaba, or Orizava 19 2 17 97 12 15 
 
 Puebla de los Angeles 19 15 98 2 45 
 
 MEXICO 19 25 45 99 5 30 
 
 CapeRoxo 21 35 97 23 
 
 Barra de Tampico 22 15 56 97 52 
 
 Barra de Santander 23 46 97 58 
 
 Boquillas Cerradas 25 97 40 
 
 Rio Brava del Norte 25 55 97 24 
 
 Bar of St. Bernardo 28 55 95 48 
 
 Gal veston Bay, entrance of Bar 29 10 96 1 
 
 COAST OF BRAZIL. 
 
 CAPE SAN ROQUE TO MARANHAM ISLAND: 
 
 CAPE SAN ROQUE, the summit of the cliff 4. 28 17 S 35 17 12 W 
 
 Point Petetinga, the base 5 21 35 35 19 23 
 
 Point Toiro or Calcanhar, the N. E. ex- 
 tremity of Brazil, summit 5 8 20 35 30 33 
 
 Lavandeira Breaker 4 54 40 36 2 8 
 
 Breakers on the Ureas 4 51 32 36 36 28
 
 425 
 
 NAMES OP PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Point Tubarao, North Down 5 1' 49" S 36 28' 3"W 
 
 Point do Mel 4 55 17 36 59 8 
 
 Morro Tibao 4 49 20 37 17 43 
 
 Reteiro Pequeno, remarkable hummock 4 48 16 37 9 5 
 
 Reteiro Grande, hummock on the point 4 36 20 37 32 48 
 
 Morro of Aracati Can inland hill) 3 42 10 37 54 3 
 
 Mouth of Jaguaripe 4 23 30 37 49 2 
 
 Point Macoripe 3 41 50 38 30 44 
 
 Hills of Ciara or Seara, as seen on the 
 
 Meridian, 1st summit 3 39 27 38 48 8 
 
 Curu, the village 3 30 38 53 2 
 
 Morro, or Mount Mela^ias 3 11 40 39 19 24 
 
 Pernambuquinho 3 1 50 39 37 21 
 
 Rio dos Patos, the entrance 2 58 50 39 39 56 
 
 Point of Jericoacoara, highest land 2 47 28 40 27 18 
 
 Rio Camucim, or Camosin, Hummock at 
 
 the entrance 2 50 40 44 58 
 
 Rio Tapuya, entrance 2 50 25 40 50 13 
 
 Rio Iguarassu, entrance, East Point 2 52 27 41 18 5 
 
 Rio DAS PERGUICAS, or Perjuizas, Eastern 
 
 Point 2 41 27 42 27 4 
 
 LANCOES GRANDES, Eastern Point 2 26 12 42 59 54 
 
 Morro Alegre 2 20 17 43 13 7 
 
 St. Anna's Breakers, Eastern Point 2 12 38 43 29 32 
 
 St. Anna's Lighthouse 2 16 18 43 41 22 
 
 Breakers of the Coroa Grande : 
 
 Middle of the Northern 2 10 50 43 57 34 
 
 N. W 2 13 15 44 3 59 
 
 West 2 17 44 5 9 
 
 MARANHAM ISLAND, white down on the 
 
 North side 2 24 36 44 4 11 
 
 Fort St. Marcos, Flagstaff 2 28 22 44 15 56 
 
 Fort St. Antonio dos Areias, Flagstaff... 2 29 24 44 16 49 
 ST. Luis DE MARANHAM, Steeple of the 
 
 Cathedral 2 30 44 44 16 2 
 
 CAPE SAN ROQUE TO BUENOS AYRES. 
 
 C APE SAN ROQUE, summit of the cliff,... 5 28 17 35 17 12 
 
 Forte of Rio Grande do Norte 5 45 35 14*32 
 
 Point Negra, extremity 5 52 52 35 7 40 
 
 Point Pipa -. 6 12 53 35 3 42 
 
 Rio Cunhao, entrance, South side 6 17 10 35 3 25 
 
 Bahia Formosa, South Point 6 23 12 35 12 
 
 Bahia Traicao, North Point 6 41 15 34 57 23 
 
 Poina Lucena 6 53 35 34 50 28 
 
 Fort Cabedello 6 57 30 34 49 50 
 
 Paranahyba do Norte, Steeple 763 34 52 58 
 
 Cape Branco, Cliff 7 8 22 34 47 58 
 
 Rio Grande de Goyana, entrance 7 30 40 34 46 30 
 
 Rio Ay, Fort at the entrance 7 47 13 34 50 28 
 
 Nossa Senhorra Farinha 7 56 43 34 50 28 
 
 OLINDA, Western tower 8 59 34 50 40- 
 
 PERNAMBUCO, Fort Picao 8 3 30 34 51 42 
 
 , Tower of Recife ... 8 4 7 34 52 37 
 
 , Tower of Boa- Vista 8 3 36 34 52 56 
 
 3 H
 
 426 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 Nossa Senhora do Rosario 8 9' 18"S 34 55' 44" W 
 
 CAPE ST. AUGUSTIN 8 20 41 34 56 34 
 
 Mount Sellada 8 25 19 35 10 56 
 
 Isles of San Aleixo 8 35 49 35 38 
 
 Rio Formosa 8 39 40 35 4 34 
 
 Fort of Tamandare 8 43 24 35 4 52 
 
 Village of Quinta 9 16 18 35 22 37 
 
 Porto Franceses, the Point 9 39 45 35 41 11 
 
 Rio San Francisco, North Point 10 28 15 36 22 40 
 
 , SouthPoint 10 28 50 36 23 13 
 
 Mountains of Itabayanna, summit 10 47 10 37 23 10 
 
 Os Tres Irmaos, or the Three Brothers... 11 15 37 37 15 
 
 Rio Real, South Point 11 28 4 37 17 50 
 
 Tower of Garcia da Vila 12 32 26 37 58 35 
 
 Rio Jacuipe, entrance 12 41 52 38 6 15 
 
 Itapuan, the Signal mast 12 57 3 38 20 
 
 Rock of Itapuan 12 57 58 38 21 
 
 Itapuanzinho, the Point 13 59 38 27 
 
 BAHIA, the Lighthouse 13 45 38 30 44 
 
 Morro of St. Amaro, in Itaporica 13 1 8 38 44 15 
 
 Point Jabuua, in Itaporica 12 57 36 38 34 40 
 
 Nossa Senhora da Penha 12 59 16 38 35 14 
 
 Isle Boypeda, one of the summits 13 37 43 38 53 35 
 
 IsleQuiepe 13 50 58 38 55 
 
 Villa de Contas 14 18 6 38 56 32 
 
 Os Ilheos, the largest rock 14 47 23 38 55 
 
 Town of San Jorge dos Ilheos 14 49 25 38 56 15 
 
 Village of Unha ,14 59 7 38 53 30 
 
 Morro of Commandatuba, the S. E. 
 
 summit 15 22 8 39 3 33 
 
 Village of Commandatuba 15 25 20 38 52 22 
 
 Santa Cruz, the Steeple 16 18 50 38 58 
 
 Monte Pascoal, or Mount Pascal, the 
 
 summit 16 54 8 39 23 25 
 
 Mouth of the Rio Cramimuan 16 51 12 39 10 30 
 
 Colombiana : 17 6 1 39 7 50 
 
 Villa Prado, Flagstaff on the Fort 17 21 28 39 7 30 
 
 Paracel dos Paredos, N. E. Point 17 56 45 38 47 30 
 
 ABROLHOS ISLES, North-easternmost 
 
 Rock 17 57 27 38 35 50 
 
 . , Largest Isle, Eastern 
 
 summit 17 57 44 38 35 54 
 
 Rio Doce, West Point of the entrance... 19 36 57 39 45 30 
 
 Cape Tubarao, S. W. Point 20 16 22 40 11 
 
 ViCTORiA,PitontotheNorthoftheTown 20 17 49 40 16 40 
 Dangerous Rock in the Bay of Espirito 
 
 Santo 20 18 32 40 11 28 
 
 Pacotes Rocks, the largest 20 21 2 40 10 15 
 
 Isle Jicu, the summit 20 23 9 40 12 30 
 
 Point Jicu, the summit 20 26 1 40 14 30 
 
 Ilhas Razos (Low Isles) the middle 20 42 42 40 16 15 
 
 Isle Calvada, the middle 20 44 8 40 19 30 
 
 Guarapari, Steeple on the S. Point of 
 
 the Bay 20 43 56 40 25 15
 
 427 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITDDE. 
 
 Morro of Benevento 20 55' 21" S 40 41' 38' W 
 
 Serro do Pico, highest part 21 1 30 41 13 
 
 Mount Campos 21 22 38 41 21 56 
 
 St. Anna's Isles, the largest 22 25 41 40 
 
 Morro of San Joao, summit 22 32 26 41 59 6 
 
 Cape Busies, extremity 22 46 3 41 49 30 
 
 Cape Frio, Northern summit 22 59 55 41 56 30 
 
 , Southern Point 23 1 18 41 57 30 
 
 Cape Negro, the Point 22 57 10 42 37 30 
 
 Maricas, Southern Isle 23 53 42 53 
 
 Redonda or Round Isle, summit 23 4 45 43 6 48 
 
 Nossa Senhora da Gloria, the Steeple ... 22 54 42 43 6 35 
 
 Rio JANEIRO, Sugar-loaf (1,292ft.) 22 57 14 43 4 55 
 
 , Vilganhon Flagstaff 22 54 31 43 5 37 
 
 , Isle Ratos or Rat Isle 22 53 16 43 6 20 
 
 , Morro Corcovado, summit 22 56 13 43 9 30 
 
 La Gabia, or Gavia 22 59 43 13 
 
 Lage de Marambaya, a flat rock 23 7 47 43 48 40 
 
 Morro of Marambaya, summit (700 ft.) 23 5 9 43 59 41 
 
 Isle of Jorge Grego, S. W. Point 23 15 11 44 10 49 
 
 Point Joatinga, summit of the islet 23 18 30 44 30 10 
 
 Isles Couves, the largest 23 25 54 44 49 1 
 
 PontaGrossa 23 28 15 44 58 27 
 
 Isle Vittoria, the summit 23 47 42 45 44 57 
 
 Busios Isles, the S. E. Isle 23 44 27 44 57 11 
 
 Ilhas dos Porcos, Southern hillock 23 33 38 45 1 26 
 
 Islet Mar- Virado, summit 23 34 7 45 5 27 
 
 Ponta das Ostres, extremity 23 34 52 45 8 31 
 
 VILLA BELLA DE PRINCESA, Roadstead 23 47 26 45 18 30 
 
 Point Pirasomungo, on St. Sebastian's ... 23 57 32 45 11 40 
 
 Point Seputuba, on the same 22 56 3 45 20 55 
 
 SANTOS, the Arsenal 23 55 51 46 16 33 
 
 Point Taypu at the entrance of Santos... 24 1 11 46 21 43 
 
 Laage de Santos 24 18 46 9 
 
 Redonda, or Little Queimada 24 21 26 46 46 
 
 Queimada Grande 24 28 21 46 38 
 
 CANANEA, Islet Bom Abrigo 25 6 49 47 49 
 
 Figueira Island, centre (160 feet) 25 21 29 47 59 10 
 
 Isle do Mel, Southern summit 25 32 43 48 17 30 
 
 PARANAGUA, Fort on the Bar 25 30 14 48 17 45 
 
 Coral Rocks, the largest 25 45 49 48 20 35 
 
 Itacolumi Rocks, the largest 25 50 20 48 24 9 
 
 Point Joao Diaz 26 6 33 48 31 11 
 
 Tamboreti Isles, Southern Isle 26 20 54 48 30 15 
 
 Isles Remedies, Southern Isle 26 29 28 48 33 14 
 
 Point Itapacoruya, North side 26 47 18 48 35 36 
 
 Mount Zimbo, on the continent 27 11 6 48 33 25 
 
 Volage Bank, 14 fathoms 26 44 48 5 
 
 ISLE OP ST. CATHERINE AND OPPOSITE COAST. 
 
 Arvoredo Isle, the summit 27 16 47 48 20 
 
 The Fort Sta. Cruz d'Aneatomirim 27 25 32 48 32 22 
 
 San Miguel, the Church (on the continent) 27 27 15 48 33 38 
 
 San Antonio, the Church (on the island) 27 30 17 48 26 35 
 
 TOWN OF NOSSA SENHORA DO DESTERRO 27 35 25 48 29 16
 
 428 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. 
 
 LATITUDE. 
 
 LONGITUDE. 
 
 San Jose, the Church (on the continent) 
 
 27 
 
 36' 
 
 18"S 
 
 48 
 
 33' 
 
 26" W 
 
 Le Ribeirao, the Church (on the island) 
 
 27 
 
 42 
 
 18 
 
 48 
 
 30 
 
 35 
 
 The Isle dos Cardos 
 
 27 
 
 48 
 
 38 
 
 48 
 
 31 
 
 53 
 
 Isle Aranhas, the largest 
 
 27 
 
 29 
 
 42 
 
 48 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 Isle Campixe 
 
 27 
 
 42 
 
 12 
 
 48 
 
 24 
 
 54 
 
 Moleques do Sul, the largest 
 
 27 
 
 49 
 
 49 
 
 48 
 
 22 
 
 34 
 
 Isles Tres Irmaos, or Three Brothers . . . 
 
 27 
 
 50 
 
 10 
 
 48 
 
 26 
 
 9 
 
 Point Catheta 
 
 27 
 
 35 
 
 34 
 
 48 
 
 22 
 
 6 
 
 
 27 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 48 
 
 30 
 
 36 
 
 
 Isle do Coral 
 
 27 
 
 55 
 
 10 
 
 48 
 
 29 
 
 13 
 
 Cape Guaratuba 
 
 28 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 48 
 
 34 
 
 52 
 
 Cape Uvidor 
 
 28 
 
 12 
 
 24 
 
 48 
 
 34 
 
 52 
 
 Islet Tocoromi 
 
 28 
 
 19 
 
 29 
 
 48 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 Isle Lobos de la Laguna 
 
 28 
 
 24 
 
 36 
 
 48 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 
 Morro da Barra 
 
 28 
 
 29 
 
 18 
 
 48 
 
 44 
 
 52 
 
 Cape Sta. Marta Pequeno 
 
 28 
 
 38 
 
 32 
 
 48 
 
 45 
 
 40 
 
 Barra Velha 
 
 28 
 
 51 
 
 30 
 
 49 
 
 11 
 
 9 
 
 As Torres 
 
 29 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 49 
 
 54 
 
 54 
 
 Praya or Beach of Fernambuco Eastern 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 part 
 
 29 
 
 52 
 
 
 
 49 
 
 54 
 
 
 
 
 
 P 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 part 
 
 31 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 35 
 
 
 
 Rio GRANDE de S. Pedro, the tower . . . 
 
 32 
 
 7 
 
 20 
 
 52 
 
 4 
 
 30 
 
 Los Castillos, Eastern Rock 
 
 34 
 
 24 
 
 30 
 
 53 
 
 36 
 
 14 
 
 Cape Sta. Maria, or Rocha 
 
 34 
 
 39 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 4 
 
 54 
 
 Isle of Lobos, centre 
 
 35 
 
 
 
 51 
 
 54 
 
 48 
 
 57 
 
 Maldonado Tower 
 
 34 
 
 53 
 
 27 
 
 54 
 
 54 
 
 22 
 
 Isle Gorretti 
 
 34 
 
 55 
 
 43 
 
 54 
 
 55 
 
 11 
 
 Ballena or Whale Point 
 
 34 
 
 53 
 
 44 
 
 54 
 
 59 
 
 17 
 
 Isle Flores, Light-tower on S. W. end... 
 
 34 
 
 56 
 
 19 
 
 55 
 
 51 
 
 42 
 
 Monte Video, Cathedral 
 
 34 
 
 54 
 
 8 
 
 56 
 
 8 
 
 19 
 
 Isles Ratos de Monte Video 
 
 34 
 
 52 
 
 3 
 
 56 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 Hill and Lighthouse of Monte Video . . . 
 
 34 
 
 53 
 
 2 
 
 56 
 
 11 
 
 39 
 
 The Panela Reef 
 
 34 
 
 54 
 
 45 
 
 56 
 
 21 
 
 9 
 
 Colonia del Sacramento 
 
 34 
 
 28 
 
 14 
 
 57 
 
 45 
 
 46 
 
 Cape San Antonio 
 
 36 
 
 19 
 
 36 
 
 56 
 
 42 
 
 24 
 
 Rio Salado 
 
 35 
 
 44 
 
 1 
 
 57 
 
 19 
 
 24 
 
 Point Piedras 
 
 35 
 
 27 
 
 40 
 
 57 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 Point del Indio 
 
 35 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 57 
 
 6 
 
 51 
 
 Magdalena Church 
 
 35 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 57 
 
 28 
 
 51 
 
 Atalaya Point 
 
 34 
 
 54 
 
 56 
 
 57 
 
 39 
 
 17 
 
 Punta de San Jago 
 
 34 
 
 50 
 
 16 
 
 57 
 
 50 
 
 14 
 
 
 34 
 
 47 
 
 14 
 
 57 
 
 56 
 
 34 
 
 
 BUENOS AYRES, Mandeville House 
 
 34 
 
 36 
 
 18 
 
 58 
 
 19 
 
 6 
 
 PATAGONIA AND TIERRA DEL FUEGO. 
 
 Cape St. Antonio 36 19 80S 56 42 30 W 
 
 Cape Corrientes 38 57 40 
 
 Rio Negro, entrance ..40 59 63 4 
 
 PortValdes 42 30 63 40 30 
 
 Port St. Elena, Observatory 44 29 45 65 29 4/5 
 
 Port St. Antonio 45 2 30 65 49
 
 429 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. LATITUDE. LONGITUDE. 
 
 PortMelo 45* 3' 0"S 66 2' 0* W 
 
 St. George's Bay, Port Malaspena 45 11 15 66 40 
 
 , Port Cordova 45 45 67 27 30 
 
 Cape Blanco 47 16 65 39 30 
 
 Port Desire 47 45 66 3 30 
 
 Port St. Julian 49 80 67 43 30 
 
 Santa Cruz Harbour 50 17 30 68 31 30 
 
 Eiver Gallegos, Cape Fairweather 51 33 69 
 
 , Cape Gracios-a-Dios ... 51 43 69 7 
 
 Strait of Magellan, Cape Froward 53 53 20 71 11 
 
 , Cape Virgins 52 18 68 17 40 
 
 , Queen Catharine's 
 
 Foreland 52 39 68 32 30 
 
 Cape St. Sebastian 53 27 67 59 
 
 Cape St. Ines 54 80 66 57 45 
 
 Staten Island, New Year's Harbour 54 48 55 63 59 30 
 
 , Cape St. John 54 42 10 63 40 30 
 
 Le Maire's Strait, Bay of Success 54 48 2 65 10 20 
 
 , Cape Success 55 1 30 65 12 30 
 
 Evout's Islands 55 33 15 66 40 30 
 
 Barnevelt's Islands 55 49 66 40 30 
 
 CAPE HORN... 55 58 40 67 12 25 
 
 FINIS.
 
 LIST OF CHARTS 
 
 RECENTLY PUBLISHED 
 
 BY MESSRS. BLACHFORD AND IMRAY. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 The ENGLISH CHANNEL. This Chart has been constructed from the grand trig- 
 onometrical surveys of England and France, earned on under the direction of the 
 respective Governments, the excellent surveys of Mackenzie, Spence, Huddart, 
 White, La Bratonnier,LaCouldre, and other distinguished navigators of both nations, 
 assisted by valuable communications from captains and pilots, enriched with particular 
 plans of the Scilly Isles, Downs, Margate Eoads, Plymouth, Falmouth, Havre de 
 Grace, Cherbourg, Ushant, and Cork Harbour, with views of Headlands, &c., with a 
 valuable Book of Directions 12 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S and BKISTOL CHANNELS, being on the largest scale of any 
 published, extending from Padstow to Glasgow, including the Mull of Cantire and 
 the Irish Coast from Londonderry to Waterford, with particular plans of Padstow 
 Harbour, Milford Haven, Liverpool, Holyhead, Whithorn Harbour, Frith of Clyde, 
 Lamlash Harbour, Cambletown, Dublin, and Waterford, with a valuable Book of 
 Directions 12 
 
 The RIVER THAMES, with all its Entrances: dedicated to the Elder Brethren of 
 the Trinity House. This Chart is taken from the valuable survey of Captain Bullock, 
 R. N., extending from the Downs and Orfordness to London, exhibiting all the Sands, 
 Soundings, Buoys, Beacons, Lighthouses, Leading-marks, and Floating Lights, with 
 enlarged plans of the River Medway, Downs, and Margate Roads, and Harwich 
 Harbour, on two large sheets of double elephant, with Directions 8 
 
 A new CHART of the East Coast of ENGLAND, on a very large scale, extending 
 from Dungeness to Scarborough, with plans of the Downs, Harwich Harbour, Yar- 
 mouth Roads, Lynn and Boston Deeps, and the River Humber, with a Book of 
 Directions 10 
 
 A new CHART of the East Coast of ENGLAND, from Orfordness to Flamborough 
 Head, delineating Yarmouth Roads, Hasborough Gatt, Sherringham Shoals, Blakeney 
 Harbour, the Dudgeons and Dowsings, Lynn Deeps and the Humber, with all the 
 Buoys, Beacons, and Lighthouses, as laid down by the Elder Brethren of the Trinity 
 House, with a Book of Directions 8 
 
 East Coast of ENGLAND and SCOTLAND, from Yarmouth to Duncansby Head, 
 Cape Wrath, the Orkneys and Shetland Islands, with plans of the River Humber, 
 Stockton, Sunderland Roads, Holy Island, Berwick, Montrose, and the Frith of 
 Forth, on three large sheets, with a Book of Directions 10 
 
 The LEWIS'S, or West Coast and Islands of Scotland, from Cape Wrath to the 
 Mull of Cantire, and part of Ireland, on a large scale, improved from the late surveys 
 of Mr. M'Kenzie and Capt. Huddart, accompanied with a copious Book of Directions 086 
 
 A new CHART of the NORTH SEA, comprising the whole of the navigation from 
 Torbay, in Devon, to the Orkneys and Shetland Islands, and from Calais to the Scaw, 
 and Coast of Norway; with particular plans of Christiana Fiord, and the entrances to 
 Bergen, accompanied with a valuable Book of Sailing Directions 7 6 
 
 The Coasts of ENGLAND and HOLLAND, on two large sheets, from Dungeness to 
 Flamborough Head on the English side, with those of France, Holland, &c., from 
 Calais to Hamburgh ; also particular plans of the Flemish Banks and of the River 
 Scheldt.. 070
 
 6. d. 
 
 The CATTEGAT, SOUND, and BELTS, from the Scaw to the Isle of Bugen, 
 showing the fair-way from the Scaw to Elsineur ; also particular plans of the entran- 
 ces to Odensee, and harbours and anchoring places on the Swedish Coast, deduced 
 from the late actual Swedish and Danish surveys, accompanied with a Book of 
 Sailing Directions 8 6 
 
 The BALTIC SEA and GULF of BOTHNIA, from the Sound of Stockholm and 
 Dagerort, including particular plans of the River Dwina to Riga, the Harbour of 
 Memel, and the Eartholms, with a view of the Headlands, Soundings, and Leading- 
 marks, deduced from the latest Russian, Danish, and Swedish surveys, accompanied 
 with a Book of Sailing Directions 8 6 
 
 The GULF of FINLAND, copied from the recent Russian and Swedish surveys, 
 extending from the Island of Dago to St. Petershurgh. Containing particular plans 
 of Rogerwick or Port Baltic, Revel, Cronstadt, Wiborg and Biorko Sound, Frederick- 
 sham, and Lovisa, views of Headlands, Lighthouses, &c., with a Book of Directions 086 
 
 A CHART of the Coast of NORWAY and WHITE SEA, from England to Archangel, 
 and Onega, drawn from the latest surveys, with particular plans of Hammerfest, Push 
 lacta,BayofSweetnose, and Archangel Bay. Anew edition, with considerable additions 090 
 
 The Coasts of FRANCE, SPAIN, and PORTUGAL, from the Bristol Channel and 
 South Coast of Ireland to Gibraltar, with particular plans of the principal Harbours, 
 OH a large scale, viz. : Cadiz, Lisbon, St. Ubes, Vigo, the River Douro to Oporto, 
 Ferrol and Corunna, the River Garrone to Bordeaux, views of Headlands, &c., with 
 Directions 10 6 
 
 The MEDITERRANEAN SEA, including the Gulf of Venice, Archipelago, and the 
 Black Sea, with particular plans of the principal Harbours, on a large scale, viz. : 
 the Bay of Gibraltar, Marseilles, Leghorn, Trieste, Genoa, Corfu, Gulf of Smyrna, 
 Alexandria, and the Island of Malta and Gozo ; compiled from the approved surveys 
 of Capt. W. H. Smyth, R.N., Visconte Tofine, and others, accompanied with a Book 
 of Directions 10 6 
 
 ARCHIPELAGO, &c. The Coasts of Greece and the Archipelago, with the Ionian 
 Islands, and the Sea of Marmara ; compiled and drawn from the latest and most ap- 
 proved surveys, made by Officers of the British Navy ; with particular plans, on an 
 enlarged scale, of the Harbours of Corfu, Cephalonia, the Straits of Scio, Gulf of 
 Makry and Scopea, Island of Paros, with Marmorice and Karagatch Harbours, on 
 two large sheets of double elephant 10 6 
 
 A new CHART of the EUXINE or BLACK SEA, with those of Azov and Marmara, 
 deduced from the recent survey of Captain Gauttier, of the French Navy, with par- 
 ticular plans of the Passage of the Dardanelles and the Channel of Constantinople . . 066 
 
 A new CHART of the ATLANTIC or WESTERN OCEAN, from Greenland to the 
 Equator, on a large scale, with the variations laid down from the most recent obser- 
 vations, plans of the Bermuda Islands, Funchal, &c., and numerous views 7 6 
 
 A General CHART of the GULF and RIVER ST. LAWRENCE, Bay of Fundy, 
 Nova Scotia, and the Island of Newfoundland with all its Banks, upon a very large 
 scale, enriched with particular plans of St. John's, Placentia, and Burin Harbours, in 
 Newfoundland, the Gut of Canso, Halifax Harbour, St. John's, New Brunswick, and 
 an enlarged plan of the River St. Lawrence, compiled from the valuable survey of 
 Captain H. W. Bayfield, R.N., accompanied with a Book of Directions 10 6 
 
 The RIVER ST. LAWRENCE, extending from the Island of Anticosti to Quebec 
 and Montreal, on a very large scale, compiled from the valuable survey of Captain 
 H. W. Bayfield, R.N., accompanied with a Book of Directions .10 6 
 
 The Coast of NORTH AMERICA, extending from Halifax, in Nova Scotia, to the 
 River Chesapeake, and from thence to Baltimore and Washington ; taken from the 
 latest and most approved surveys, with enlarged plans of Patuxant River, the Harbour 
 of New York, and Delaware River, with a Book of Directions *. . . . 10 6 
 
 The COAST of NORTH AMERICA, extending from Baltimore and Washington to 
 the Gulf or Strait of Florida, including part of the Gulf of Mexico ; taken from the 
 latest and most approved surveys, with plans, on an enlarged scale, of St. Augustine, 
 Nassau, and St. Mary's River, the Savannah River, Port Royal, Beaufort, Charleston, 
 and the River Chesapeake, with a valuable Book of Directions 10 6 
 
 The COAST of the UNITED STATES of AMERICA, from Savannah to Boston,
 
 s. d. 
 
 including New York, Philadelphia, &c., taken from tiie latest and most approved 
 surveys, wth plans of the principal Harbours and Eivers, on an enlarged scale, 
 viz. : St. Augustine, Nassau, and St. Mary's Rivers, the entrance to Savannah River, 
 Charleston Harhour, Port Royal, the Chesapeake, Patuxant, Harbour of New York, 
 and the River Delaware, accompanied with a valuable Book of Directions 44 
 
 The GULF of MEXICO, on a large scale, including plans of the following Harbours 
 and Bays : Pensacola Harbour, Mobile Bay, Mouths of the Mississipi, Vera Cruz, 
 the Anchorage of Anton Lizardo, and Lagunade Tenninos Harbour 10 6 
 
 A General CHART of the WEST INDIES, including the Gulfs of Florida and ' 
 
 Mexico, with all the Windward Passages, the Bahama Banks, and also the Leeward 
 
 Islands, taken from the late Spanish surveys, accompanied with a Book of Directions. 15 
 
 A CHART of the WEST INDIES, including the Gulfs of Florida and Mexico, 
 with all the JVindward Passages, Bahama Banks, &c., taken from the late Spanish 
 surveys, with a Book of Directions. New Edition 10 6 
 
 The INDIAN and PACIFIC OCEANS, upon a large scale, extending from the Cape 
 of Good Hope to the Red Sea, Bombay, Madras, Bengal, and China, and round New 
 Holland to New Zealand, with particular plans of the Isle of France, Bourbon, Port 
 Louis, Port Jackson, and Torres Strait. A New Edition, with important additions . . 15 
 
 The CAPE of GOOD HOPE and Mozambique Passage, including Madagascar, 
 
 with particular plans of Table Bay, False Bay, and Mozambique Harbours 7 6 
 
 The INDIAN OCEAN, with the Arabian Sea, Entrances to the Red Sea and Gulf of 
 Persia, and the Bay of Bengal, extending from Zanzibar Island to Bombay, Ceylon, 
 Madras, and Calcutta 10 6 
 
 The CHINA SEA and East India Archipelago, comprehending the Sunda, Molucca, 
 and Phillippine Islands, in which are exhibited the various Straits and Passages to 
 Canton, with a particular plan on a large scale of Bencoolen Roads , 10 6 
 
 The STRAITS of MALACCA and SINGAPORE 076 
 
 The STRAITS of SUNDA, with a plan of Batavia Road 7 6 
 
 TERRA AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND, and ADJACENT ISLANDS, with plans, 
 
 on a large scale, of Torres Straits, Bass' Straits, Port Jackson, and Cook's Straits.... 10 6 
 
 
 Sunderland: Printed by E. SMITH, 188, High Street.
 
 .UCSB LIBRARY 
 
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