University of California Berkeley Gift of Miss Helen Pardee LIFE AMONG THE APACHES BY JOH C. CREMO^Y, INTERPRETER TO THE U. S. BOUNDARY COMMISSION, UNDER THE HON. JOHN R. BARTLETT, IN 1849, '50 AND '51, AND LATE MAJOR OF CALIFORNIA VOLUNTEER CAVALRY, OPERATING IN ARIZONA, NEW MEXICO, TEXAS AND WESTERN ARKANSAS. SAN FRANCISCO: A. ROMAN & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS. NEW YOEK: 27 HOWAED STEEET. 1868. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by JOHN H. CARMANY & CO., in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the District of California. Printed at the COMMEKCIAL HERAIJ) OFFICE, San Francisco, Cal. TO THE PIONEER AND LIBERAL PUBLISHER, THE ZEALOUS AND ENTERPRISING FRIEND OF LITERATURE ON THE PACIFIC COAST, THIS UNPRETENDING VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED AS A TRIBUTE OF THE AUTHOR'S ESTEEM. CONTENTS OF THE VOLUME. CHAPTEE I. Comanclie Eaid. Detailed to send them away. Interview with Janamata. Description of the Chief pp. 13-16 CHAPTEE II. March from Texas to El Paso. The Lipans. Their Personal Appearance. Sait-jah and the Picture 17-22 CHAPTEE III. To the Copper Mines. Encounter with Cuchillo Negro. Fearful Massacre of Apaches. Their Terrible Revenge. Apache Method of Hunting Ducka and Geese. Apaches Hunting Antelopes. Mangas Colorado. My Camp 23-34 CHAPTEE IV. Journey to Sonora. Adventure with Apaches. Fronteras. Mexican Dread of Indians. Gen. Carasco. Janos. Mexican Policy toward the Apaches. Carasco's Eaid. Gandara, Monteverde and Urea. Death of Carasco. Arispe. Apache Prisoners. Mexican Guard. Apaches Attacking a Mexi can Train. Curious Style of Pursuit. Return to the Copper Mines. Americans Attacked by Apaches. Traits of Apache Character. Crafti. ness " 35-46 CHAPTEE V. Mangas Colorado. His Personal Appearance, Power, and Influence. Indian Forces at the Copper Mines. The Navajoes. Their Appearance and Sub sequent Acts. Their Schemes Foiled. Mangas in Full Uniform. Strange 6 CONTENTS. Mode of Attire. Inez Gonzales. Her Rescue. New Mexican Traders. Summary Proceedings. Story of Inez. March into Sonora. Santa Cruz. Restoration of Inez. Her subsequent History. Tanori pp. 47-58 CHAPTER VI. Rescue of Two Mexican Boys. War Talk. Exciting Scene. Peaceful Termina tion. Large Indian Forces. An Apache killed by a Mexican. Intense Excitement. Fearless Conduct of Col. Craig. The Apaches Pacified. Another War Talk. Amicable Result. Necessity of Firmness and Pre caution '. 59-72 CHAPTER VII. Jornada del Muerto. Socorro. Lieut. Campbell. Terrific Ride for Life. Splendid Horse. Narrow Escape. Caring for a Horse. Apache Visits. Treacherous Nature 73-79 CHAPTER VIII. Gold Mines. Apache Raid. Our Mules Stolen. Unsuccessful Scout. Another Apache Raid. Fight with Delgadito's Band. Recovery of Stolen Cattle. Delgadito Wounded. His Death. Traits of Apache Character. Their Spartan Views. Apache Idea of American Wisdom. Adventure of Mr. Diaz with Cuchillo Negro. Abandon the Copper Mines. Sonora. Santa Cruz. Bacuachi. Arispe. Ures. Hermosillo. Guaymas. Return. Santa Rita. The Pimos and Maricopas. Their Tradition. Their Personal Appearance. Strange Relations Between the Two Tribes. Lucubrations on Indian Character. Our Indian Policy Criticised 80-97 CHAPTER IX. Pimo Superstition. Eclipse of the Moon. Terrible Excitement. Dangerous Predicament. Lieut. Whipple's Coolness. Satisfactory Result. Pimos and Maricopas. Their Traditions. Religions and Modes of Interment. Dr. David Wooster. Arrival of Gen. Conde. Death of Antonio. Horrible and Revolting Ceremonies. The Gila Bend. Down the Gila. The Mar> copa Refugees. Important News. The Colorado River. John Gallantin and his Party 08-117 CHAPTER X. Fort Yuma. The Yuma Indians. Desperate Situation. Dr. Webb's Bluntness. CONTENTS. 7 Caballo en Pelo. Method of Camping. Yuma Chiefs our Prisoners. The Launch. Crossing the Colorado. March into the Desert. Release of the Yuma s. Sandstorm in the Desert. Final Escape from the Yumas. Sufferings on the Desert. Carisso Creek. VaUecito. Hospitality of Army Officers. Col. Heintzleman. Yumas Reduced to Subjection. . .pp. 118-128 CHAPTER XI. Letter from Senator Clemens. Resign from the Boundary Commission. Depar ture of the Commission. New Expedition. Ride up the Gila. Terrible Conflict with Apaches. Desperate Personal Encounter. Defeat of the Savages. Return of the Expedition. Long for a Quiet Life. San Fran cisco. Cogitations on Indian Character. Advice Given and Disdained. The Fatal Results. Necessity for Constant Caution. Extent of Apache Country. Numerical Strength of the Apaches. Female Warriors. False Impressions of Indian Character 129-143 CHAPTER XII. Enter the Volunteer Service. The Column from California. Antelope Peak. Visited by Yumas. Making Metates. Get Rid of them by a Ruse. The Maricopas Again. Carrying the Mails. Small Force in Camp. Visit of Col. Rigg. The Maricopas Recognize me. Their Gratitude. Captain Killmoon. Another Remarkable Lunar Performance. Loring's Assist ance. Bargaining for Chickens. Magic Virtues of the Compass. Effect of the Burning Glass 144-154 CHAPTER XIII. Sent to the Front. Dreadful Storm at the San Pedro River. Night Alarm. Apaches Gathering. Dragoon Springs. Capt. Thomas Roberts. Apache Pass. Bloody and Desperate Fight with Apaches. The Savages Whipped. Remarkable Infantry March. Heroism of John Teal. He wounds Mangas Colorado, and whips off Fifteen Apaches. Gallantry of Sergeant Mitchell and his Cavalry. Effect of Shelling the Apaches. Number of Indians Killed. Our Losses. Re-enter the Pass. Refused Permission to Charge. San Simon 155-167 CHAPTER XIV. Return from the San Simon. Avoid Apache Pass. Reasons for so Doing. Night Marching. Apaches show Themselves. Rattlesnakes. Ojo de los Her- 8 CONTENTS. manos. San Pedro Again. Beturn through Apache Pass. Meet thirteen Dead Americans. Mangas Colorado's Deceit. How the Americans were Killed. Apache Cunning and Calculation. Bury the Dead. How Mangas was Cured of his Wound. Death of Mangas Colorado. The Genius and Abilities of Mangas. Apache Democracy. Extent of the Eavages of Mangas Colorado PP- 168-178 CHAPTEK XV. Apache Signals. Mode of Marching through Arizona and New Mexico. Apache Watchfulness and Caution. The Gila Country. Grama Grass. The In- formation Indispensable for a Successful Campaign against Apaches. The Smoke Columns. Pressed Grass. Bent and Broken Twigs. Blazed Trees. Mounted Parties. The Stone Signals. Kit Carson. Comparison between White Men's and Apache Philosophy. The Present Condition of Apache Armament. Their Knowledge of Colors, and the Use they make of It. TJieir Hatred of all Other Eaces. Proofs of their Good Breeding. Our Indian Policy Discussed. Apache Want of Sympathy. How they Obtain their Guns and Ammunition. Extent of their Eavages in North ern Mexico. Monuments of Apache Massacres in Arizona. Mines of Arizona 179-196 CHAPTER XVI. Condition of New Mexico and Arizona. Active Campaign. Californian Soldiers. Bosque Eedondo. More Intimate Eelations with Apaches. Site of Tort Sumner. Scarcity of Wood. Climate. Arrival of Apache Prisoners of 'War. Dog Canon. Apache Embassy. Mr. Labadie. Placed in Charge of the Apaches. Form a Council. Hunting Excursion with Apaches. Their Mode of Killing Antelopes. Learn more of Indian Character. Obtain a Greater Share of their Confidence 197-205 CHAPTEK XVII. Satisfaction of the Apaches. Policy. Beneficial Eesults to my Men. Individual Eesponsibility. Short Allowance. The Apache Eations Continued. Gen. Carleton's Visit. Bishop Lamy. Supplies Eeceived. Apaches Elect a Governor. Juan Cojo. Commence Learning the Apache Language. Com pile a Vocabulary. Gradually gain Apache Confidence. Eenew Acquaint ance with Old Enemies. Altered Eelations. Former Events Eecalled. Instruction thrown Away. Apache Ideas of Warfare. Their Horror of Work. Influence of their Women. Mescal. Its Intoxicating Quali- CONTENTS. 9 CHAPTER XVIII. Dangerous Hunting at the Bosque. Dr. McNulty's Adventure. Don Carlos and his Indians. Mr. Descourtis' Adventure. Nah-kah-yen and Nah-tanh. Hunting a Lion. The Indian and the Panther. Combat Between a Bear and a Lion. The Kesult. Beavers. Apache Love of Torturing. Gallant Indian. A Wounded Apache to be Dreaded pp. 218-228 CHAPTER XIX. Anecdote of Capt. Bristol. Surprise and Admiration of the Indians. They Vote Him a Great Medicine. Wonders of the Microscope. Their Modes of Hunting. Departure of Ojo Blanco. Apache Dread of Disease. The Influenza. Apache Prophet. His Dream and Interpretation. My Coun ter Dream and Interpretation. Useful Services of Dr. Gwyther. Faith fulness of Gian-nah-tah. Necessity of Using Artifice 229-236 CHAPTER XX. The Apache Language. Its Bemarkable Regularity and Copiousness. Examples Given. Reflections. How Apaches are Named. Apache Beauties. Dis inclination to tell their Apache Names : 237-243 CHAPTER XXI. Chastity of Apache Women. Wantonness of the Navajoes. Comparison Insti tuted. Curious Customs. A Feast and Dance. Ceremonies. Duration of the Feast. Depilorizing the Eyes. Apache Marriages. Style of Court ship. Coquetry. Horses as Money. The Bower of Love. Affected Bash- ' fulness. Apache System of Polygamy. Customs Regulating Marriage. Nah-tanh's Views. Burials. Funeral Ceremonies. Apache Reserve. Small-Pox. Capt. Shirland. Fort Davis. Fight with Apaches. Indians Whipped 244-252 CHAPTER XXII. Apaches as Warriors. Fight with the Maricopas. Fight with the Comanches. Cold Weather. Apache Camp Attacked by Hostile Navajoes. Navajoes Pursued and Destroyed. Animals Recovered. Carillo and the Navajo. McGrew and Porter. Their Gallantry. Apache Ideas of Scalping. Grand Apache Parade. Strange Request. Denied. Purification of Arms. The Prophet again Making Trouble. Apache Cavalry Manoeuvres. Reflec tions ... . . 253-261 10 CONTENTS. CHAPTEK XXIII. Ojo Blanco Wounded. Apache Doctoring. Dr. Gwyther's Treatment. Results. Ojo Blanco Killed in Battle. Religious Creed of the Apaches. Policy in their Religion. The Deluge. Apaches Ignorant of their Origin. Their Ideas in Reference to Women. Mexican Women as Wives of Apaches. Character of their Children. Horrible Spectacle in Cooke's Canon. A few Suggestions. Their Respect for Traditions Upset ,pp. 262-272 CHAPTER XXIY. Apache Endurance. Inroad. Extensive Traveling. Wild Hosses. El Cupido. Passes in New Mexico. Heavy Snow. Cold Weather. Change Base. Indians Break Cover. Continued Snow-storm. Go in Pursuit. Rough Ride. Indians Overtaken by Mr. Labadie. -Navajoes Whipped and Plun der Recovered. Overtake and Protect Labadie. Hunt for Navajoes. Labadie Arrives Safely at Fort Sumner. Conchas Springs. Intense Cold. Indians' Indifference to Cold. Apache Method of Running Sheep. Great Distances Accomplished 273-284 CHAPTEE XXV. Religious Ceremonies. Lack of Veneration. Evidences of Mineral Wealth. An Apache " Rough." Tats-ah-das-ay-go. Remarkable Order. Another Scout. Apache "Hide and Seek." Prairie Dogs and their Guests. Apache Customs concerning Murder. Sons-in-jah. His Career. His Re citals. Former Condition of the New Mexicans. How the Difficulties Commenced. Reflections. Articles of Apache Food. Native Potatoes. Apache Estimate of Dead Women. Navajo Dread of Corpses 285-297 CHAPTER XXYI. Apache Boldness and Address. The Papagoes. A Fine Herd Stolen by One Apache. An Officer's Horse Stolen. Soldier Robbed of his Horse. Ne" cessity for Prudence. Apache Games. Sons-in-jah's Version. Apache Ideas of Gambling. Races at Fort Sumner. The Winners. Manuelito, the Great Navajo Warrior 298-309 CHAPTER XXVII. Ignorance of Indian Character Discussed. Political Indian Agencies. How the Indian Affairs should be Managed.^Necessity of Force. Absurd System in Vogue. Crushing Out Advised. How the Apaches should be Fought. Proper Method of Campaigning. Suggestions. Culpable Neglect of Con gress. General Deductions. Calif ornian Troops. Conclusion. .. 310-322 PREFACE. THOSE who may favor the succeeding pages with their perusal, must not expect any attempt at fine writing or glowing description. The author's intention is, to furnish a plain, unvarnished tale of actual occurrences and facts illustrative of the various tribes of In dians occupying that vast region which extends from the Colorado river on the west, to the settlements of Texas on the east, and from Taos in New Mexico to Durango in the Mexican Republic. In the front rank of the tribes, occupying the region included within the limits mentioned, stands the great Apache race, and next are the Comanches. The former of these will engage most of the author's attention for very many and obvious reasons. It is be lieved that the book will contain a large amount of valuable infor mation, to be derived from no other source extant, and it will be the author's endeavor to place it before his readers in a manner which will engage their attention. Nothing not strictly true will be admit ted into its pages, and if some of the incidents narrated be found of a thrilling character, the reader will experience satisfaction in knowing that they are not the results of imaginative picturing. Whenever a personal adventure is narrated, it will be found to illus trate some particular phase of character ; none are recounted which do not convey information. Our Government has expended millions of dollars, in driblets, since the acquisition of California, in efforts to reduce the Apaches 12 PREFACE. and Navajoes, who occupy that extensive belt of country which forms the highway for overland migration from the East to the West; but we are as far from'success to-day as we were twenty years ago. The reason is obvious. We have never striven to make ourselves intel ligently acquainted with those tribes. Nearly all that relates to them is quite as uncertain and indefinite to our comprehension as that which obtains in the center of Africa. Those who were the best informed on the matter, and had given it the closest attention, were, at the same time most unfortunately the least capable of imparting their information ; while those who were almost ignorant of the subject have been the most forward to give the results of their fragmentary gleanings. If this volume shall have the effect of bettering our present deplorable Indian policy, by letting in some light, it will accomplish the author's object. SAN FBANCTSCO, August, 1868. J. C. C. CHAPTER I. Comanche Kaid. Detailed to send them away. Interview with Janamata. Description of the Chief. MY first business acquaintance with "Lo" occurred in the year 1847. A band of about one hundred Co manche warriors, led by a chief named Janamata. or the "Ked Buffalo," taking advantage of the subdued and defenceless condition of the Mexicans, crossed the Kio Grande, about seventy miles below Old Keynosa, and commenced a series of depredations. Information was immediately given to the American officer commanding at that post, and the writer was detailed, with a force of fifty men, to drive off the invaders, with orders not to engage in hostilities, unless the Indians proved refrac tory and deaf to all other appeals. After marching fifty miles, which was accomplished in two days, we arrived at the scene of operations, meeting the Comanches on the highway. Our force was imme diately disposed to the best advantage, and placing a white handkerchief on the point of my sabre, I advanced alone toward the chief, who, leaving his warriors, rode forward to meet me. He spoke Spanish fluently, having evidently acquired it in his many marauding excursions into Mexico. Having met, I offered him a cigarito, which was accepted with Indian stoicism. We smoked in per fect silence for half a minute, when the cigaritos having been consumed the following dialogue took place : Officer. "I am sent to tell you, that you must recross 2 14 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. the Bio Grande with your warriors, and come here no more to molest these people while we remain in the country." Indian. "I hear your words. They are not pleasant. These Mexicans are our natural enemies; we have warred against them for many years. They are also your ene mies. You are killing them in their own country, the same as I am. The Comanches are friends to the Amer icans. Why do you prevent your friends from hunting your enemies and theirs ?" Officer. " Red man, you mistake. These people were our enemies, but they have yielded, and all who have sub mitted are under our protection. "We have ceased from doing them harm, and if we permit you to injure them after we have disarmed them, it would be the same as if we did so ourselves." Indian. ' ' But your revenge is for yourselves. It does not satisfy us for the blood of Comanches slain by Mexi cans. You made war upon them without our consent or knowledge. We do the same. A wise warrior takes advantage of his enemy's weakness. It is now our op portunity." Officer. "These people are our captives, and cannot continue to be your enemies while in that condition. Suppose you had a dozen Apache captives, would you permit the Kaddos to come into your camp and kill them; take their property and go off without resistance ?" Indian. "White man, your tongue is double, like a woman's; but the Comanche does not feel to war against his American brothers. I and my people will recross the Bio Grande, but will not promise never to come back. Good-by." Our colloquy ended we smoked another cigarito; he waved his hand to his warriors, and without another word LIFE AMOXG THE APACHES. 15 directed his course to the river, which was soon waded, and Janamata, Avith his followers, stood on American soil. This little interview imparted the knowledge that the American savages are rather keen logicians, from their own uncivilized stand-point, as they are incapable of ap preciating the moral and religious sensibilities of enlight ened races. Janamata was a good type of his tribe, in point of physical development. He was about five feet ten inches in height, with well proportioned shoulders, very deep chest, and long, thin, but muscular arms. His forehead, was very broad and moderately high, his mouth enor mous, and garnished with strong white teeth. His nose was of the Roman order, broad and with much expanded nostrils, which appeared to pulsate with every emotion; but his countenance was rigid and immovable as bronze. His arms consisted of a bow and quiver full of arrows, a long lance, a long sharp knife, worn in the top of his moccasin boot, and a very good Colt's revolver. A strong shield of triple buffalo bide, ornamented with brass studs, hung from his saddle bow, and his dress was composed of buckskin and buffalo hide well tanned and flexible, but wholly free from ornament. I afterwards learned from a Texas Banger that he was called Janamata, or the " Red Buffalo," from a desperate encounter he once had with one of those animals, which had ripped up his horse, and attacked him on foot. In this encounter Janamata had only his knife to depend on, as he had lost lance and bow when unhorsed. It is related that as the buffalo charged upon him, he sprang over the animal's lowered front, and landing on his back, plunged his knife several times into its body; then, as suddenly jumping off behind, he seized it by the tail and with one cut severed' the ham-string. These details made an impression upon me at the time which has never been effaced or weakened. 16 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. Years passed before another opportunity offered to ex tend my acquaintance with Indians, and then in a totally different sphere and under different circumstances, and with many different tribes. The lapse of time, however, gave opportunity for reflection, and I realized the fact that my former rude impressions, founded upon such authorities as Catlin, Cooper, and others, must be con siderably modified; and I resolved that, should occasion ever offer, I would devote attention and time to the ob servation of Indian character as it is, and not as I had believed it to be from writers on the subject. CHAPTER II. March from Texas to El Paso. The Lipans. Their Personal Appearance. Sait-jah and the Picture. IN the year 1849, I was prevailed upon by Dr. Thomas H. Webb, Secretary of the Massachusetts Historical So ciety, to forego my position on the Boston Herald, and accept an appointment on the United States Boundary Commission, then being re-organized under the Hon. John K. Bartlett. Mr. Bartlett selected some thirty of the Commission, and determined to proceed by way of the Northern Koute, which, up to that period, had been traveled only three times, and was, consequently, but little known. The most valuable information relative to the route was received from Judge Antrim a brave, courteous and handsome gentleman. In accordance with the directions pricked out on Mr. Bartlett's traveling chart by Judge Ankrim, one portion of the Commission directed their way, leaving the great body, under Col. John McClellan, U. S. Topographical Engineers, to come on by what is known as the Southern Eoute, a well beaten and frequently used road. Many portions of the way selected by Mr. Bartlett had never before been gone over by white men. There was no trail to direct our course, nor did we possess any satisfactory knowledge of its abil ity to afford wood, water and grass. The maps, however, showed that it was crossed by certain streams at stated distances, and the venture was boldly undertaken. On arriving within a short distance of the South Con- 18 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. clio river, we camped on a small stream named the Ante lope creek, situated in the Lipan country. Early next morning, as the party were about to resume the march, an Indian was seen advancing at full speed. A halt was ordered, and in a few minutes he was among us asking, in Spanish, for the commander. I at once took him to Mr. Bartlett, and, on approaching the Commissioner, our red visitant commenced fumbling among his clothes, from which he extracted a dirty piece of handkerchief, which, being unrolled, disclosed another dirty rag, and the unwrapping continued until five pieces of cotton fragments had been unrolled, displaying a handsome leopard skin pouch, in which were a number of recom mendations, signed by well-known Americans, and set ting forth that the bearer, Chipota, a Lipan chief, had, a short time before, celebrated a treaty of peace with the "United States, and was entitled to the consideration and kindness of all American travelers over those wastes. During the interview, I attentively watched the Indian, who gave slight indications of uneasiness as to the man ner in which his overtures would be received; but these were soon dissipated by the frank and amicable deport ment of Mr. Bartlett, who invited his visitor to take a seat in his carriage and proceed with him to the next camp, which was about twelve miles further. Chipota appeared to be about sixty years of age. He was short, stout and sinewy, with an uncommonly high and expan sive forehead, and so singularly like the celebrated Lewis Cass in appearance, that the fact was immediately re marked by all the party who had ever seen Mr. Cass or his portrait. The Commissioner traveled in a close carriage, drawn by four fleet and powerful mules. His compagnon de voy age was invariably Dr. Webb, who could never be induced LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 19 to mount a horse. The inside of the carriage was well supplied with Colt's and Sharp's rifles, Colt's pistols, a double-barreled shot gun, lots of ammunition, a spy glass, and a number of small but useful tools. Upon entering this traveling arsenal, old Chipota looked around him with ill-concealed astonishment, which was greatly heightened by Mr. Bartlett preparing the spy-glass, and permitting him to take a good look through it at a dis tant object. The Indian could hardly credit that the thing he saw so distinctly through the glass was the same object he beheld so dimly with his naked eye. Not until we arrived in camp, however, were his senses brought to the full stand-poinf of admiration by the rapid discharges and terrific effects of the fire from our repeating rifles and pistols. Looking around with un- dissembled amazement, he said in his own language, as if soliloquizing: " Inday pindah lickoyee schlango pooha- cante." It was not until years had passed that I became aware of the meaning of these words : but I noted them at the time by asking him to repeat them, and took a memorandum of their sounds. Since then I have discov ered that they mean ' ' These people of the white eyes are wonderful medicine men." About two hours after camping, we were joined by four more Lipans, the leader being named Chiquito, a Spanish term, signifying "the little one." He was tall, thin, sinewy, and had the appearance of having been possessed of more than ordinary powers of endurance. The likeness of this chief to General Jackson was quite as remarkable and striking as that of Chipota to General Cass, and was a general subject of remark. The most prominent member of Chiquito's escort was a tall, strong, well-made and handsome young Lipan dandy, who re joiced in the name of Sait-jah, disdaining to be known 20 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. by any Spanish term. This fellow evidently believed himself of some consequence, and strutted about with a very decided aristocratic bearing. After a short time passed in displaying his colossal proportions, his splen did leopard skin saddle, quiver, leggins, etc., Chipota quietly beckoned to him and the others, and, I suppose, gave them a short account of the wonders he had beheld. His warnings were received with trust by all but Sait- jah, who, like most inexperienced and flattered young men, savage or civilized, preferred to rely on his own experiences. Our party being small, and offering many temptations, I kept a strict but unobserved watch over the Indians, and suspected the tenor of Chipota's dis course, from his gesticulations. In a few minutes Sait- jah came toward me in a swaggering manner, and said, in broken Spanish: " Our chief says you great medicine; he says your pistol fires six times without reloading; he says you bring the trees which are afar off close to the eye, so you can count the leaves; he says your guns reach a great way, and never miss; he says a great many other wonderful things, which I cannot believe. You have bewitched him." Drawing a six-shooter from my belt, I pointed out a tree about seventy-five yards distant, and commenced firing rapidly. Each shot struck the tree, and blazed off large fragments of the bark. Sait-jah was astonished at the power of the weapon, and made no at tempt to conceal his surprise; but his admiration broke out into emphatic expression when he witnessed the pre cision and reach of our Sharp's rifles, and the rapidity with which they could be loaded and fired. His pride had evidently received a heavy fall, and his lofty bearing was toned down to the level of his white visitors. In my possession was the miniature of a young lady, whose many graces of person, cultivated mind and amia- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 21 ble disposition, rendered her one of the most lovable of Boston's fairest daughters. Sait-jah happened to see this picture, and asked permission to take a good look at the pleasant features. The miniature was placed in his hand, and his eyes seemed to devour its expressive linea ments. Throughout the remainder of that day this In dian bored me with frequent requests for another look, and the next morning, so soon as the camp was astir, he offered me his bow, arrows and splendid leopard skin for the picture. These offers being refused, he then added his horse, and whatever other property he might have, for its possession; but, finding me deaf to his entreaties, he took one long, last look, vaulted on his horse, set off at full speed and rapidly disappeared in the distance. The Lipans are a numerous and warlike tribe, roaming over a vast extent of country, and perpetually at war with the Comanches, Kaddos, and other tribes of West ern Texas. Since acquiring the Apache language, I have discovered that they are a branch of that great tribe speaking identically the same language, with the excep tion of a few terms and names of things existing in their region and not generally known to those branches which inhabit Arizona and New Mexico. The Mescalero Apaches, in their search for buffaloes, frequently meet the Lipans, and always on the best of terms. No conflicts are known to have ever occurred between them; but they act in concert against the Comanches, and all other tribes. All the remarks on the Apache race, which will be found in the succeeding pages of this work, apply with equal force to the Lipans, with the exception of their tribal organization, the Lipans having regular chiefs, whom they obey on all occasions, and whose acts are final; while the Apaches are pure democrats, each warrior being' his own master, and submitting only to 22 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. the temporary control of a chief elected for the occasion. As no other Indians were encountered until after our arrival at Paso del Norte, the remainder of our journey with its many incidents, sufferings and dangers, will not be expatiated upon in this work, which is solely dedi cated to descriptions of Indian life. CHAPTER III. To the Copper Mines. Encounter with Cuchillo Negro. Fearful Massacre of Apaches. Their Terrible Revenge. Apache Method of Hunting Ducks and Geese. Apaches Hunting Antelopes. Mangas Colorado. My Camp. IN the latter part of January, 1850, Mr. Bartlett took advantage of the march of Col. Craig, commanding the military escort of the Boundary Commission, to order Dr. Webb, Mr. Thurber and myself to the Copper Mines of Santa Rita, as Col. Craig had determined to make that place his head-quarters until the extended opera tions of the Commission should demand a more advanced post. Dr. Webb, Secretary of the Commission, and Mr. Thurber, Botanist, rode in Mr. Bartlett's carriage, which he had loaned them for the trip, but I preferred to take the saddle, being mounted on an uncommonly fine horse I had bought from Capt. A. Buford, First United States Dragoons. In order not to be distressed by the slow, painful and tiresome marches of the infantry, Dr. Webb invariably ordered Wells, the carriage driver, to hurry forward to the next camping ground, and we generally arrived three or four hours in advance of the troops, my horse keeping up with the carriage, for I would not leave my party in so dangerous an Indian country as the one we were then penetrating. Sometimes, when the road was rough and difficult for the carriage, I was accus tomed to ride ahead in search of game, being always armed to the teeth with two belt and two holster six- shooters, a Sharp's carbine and a large bowie knife. On 24 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. the fourth day of our march, I advanced about three miles ahead of the carriage, which was detained in mak ing the passage through Cooke's canon, a rough, rocky and very dangerous defile, about forty miles east of the Mimbres river, and having observed some antelope tracks, looked around in hope of seeing the animals, when I perceived myself surrounded by a band of about twenty- five Indians, who advanced upon me from, all sides, led by a savage who rode several yards ahead of all others. At that time I could have broken through the circle and rejoined my party with but little risk, as my horse was infinitely superior in strength and speed to their ponies, but as I felt convinced that the carriage would heave in sight within a short time, my resolution was immediately taken to adopt another policy. By this time their leader was from twenty-five to thirty yards in advance of his followers, and about the same distance from me, perceiv ing which I drew r a heavy holster pistol with my right hand and putting spurs to my horse, met him in a bound or two, when I addressed him to the following effect, in Spanish : 1 ' Keep off or I will shoot you." To this he replied: "Who are you, and whence do you come ?" Observing that his warriors were closing upon me, I said: "See here, Indian, you have plenty of warriors against one man, but I have got you; your people may kill me, but I will kill you, so tell them to hold back at once." Involuntarily the Apache waved his hand, and his war riors halted about forty yards off. Not liking so short a distance, I again urged the chief to let his warriors fall back still further, at the same time giving a significant shake of my pistol. This, too, was done, and the Apaches LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 25 increased their distance to about one hundred and fifty yards. The chief, whom I afterwards found to be Cu- chillo Negro, or the "Black Knife/' then endeavored to gain my left side, but I foiled his attempt by keeping my horse's head in his direction wherever he moved. He then said, "G-ood-by," and started to rejoin his comrades, but I again brought him to a sense of his po sition, by telling him I would not permit it, and he must stay with me until my friends came up. This excited considerable surprise, for he evidently labored under the idea that I was alone, or nearly so. The following dia logue then took place : Cuchillo Negro. " What do you want in my country?" American. "I came here because my chief has sent me. He is coming soon with a large force, and will pass through this country, but does not intend to remain or do any harm to his Apache brethren. We come in peace, and will always act peaceably, unless you compel us to adopt other measures; if you do, the consequences will do you great harm." Cuchillo Negro. "I do not believe your words. You are alone. My people have been on the watch, and have seen no forces coming this way. If any such had been on the road, we would have known it. You are in my power. What more have you to say ?" American. "Indian, you are foolish. Long security has made you careless. A company of soldiers is close behind me; but your young men have been asleep. The squaws have retained them in camp, when they should have been on the lookout. I am not in your power, but you, personally, are in mine. Your people can kill me, but not until I have put a ball through your body. Any signal you may make to them, or any forward movement on their part, will also be signal for your death. If you 26 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. do not believe me, wait a few moments, and you will see my friends come round the point of yonder hill. They are many, and intend to remain several moons in your country. If you treat them well you will grow rich and get many presents, but if you treat them badly they will search you out among the rocks and hills of your coun try, will take possession of your watering places, will destroy your plantations and kill your warriors. Now choose." Cuchillo Negro. "For many years no white man has penetrated these regions, and we do not permit people to enter our country without knowing their purpose. If you had friends, as you say, you would not have left them and come on alone, for that is foolish. My young men have not been led away by the squaws, for there are none within two sun's march, and if you had a large party with you, they would have known it and given me notice. You have many guns, but I have many men, and you cannot escape if I give the signal." American. "Indian, I don't think you will give that signal so long as you and I are so close together. Wait a few moments, and see whether I tell the truth." This proposition was finally agreed to by him, and we sat on our horses waiting the approach of the carriage. It is unnecessary to say what my feelings were during the next quarter of an hour, nor to explain the manoeuvres each adopted to get or keep the advantage of his enemy. I feel incapable of doing justice to the occasion. At the expiration of the time mentioned, the carriage hove in sight, about a quarter of a mile off, rounding the point of the mountain, and it had been detained so much dur ing the march through the rocky and terrible defile that the infantry had come up with it and presented a for midable array of glittering tubes immediately in its rear. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 27 At this unexpected sight, Cuchillo Negro gazed for a moment like one in a dream, but quickly collecting him self, he advanced directly toward me, extending his right hand and saying, " Jeunie, jeunie/" which means friendly, amicable, good. I refused to take his hand lest he might suddenly jerk me off my horse and stab me while falling, but contented myself by saying, " Estamos amigos" we are friends. He then turned quickly and rode off at full speed, attended by his warriors. They disappeared in another rocky canon, about four hundred yards distant. It was subsequently my fate to meet this savage sev eral other times, and I am satisfied that the remembrance of our interview on the occasion above narrated, did me no harm either with him or the balance of his tribe. After leaving Dona Ana, our way led across the lower portion of the Jornada del Muerto until we arrived at what is known as the San Diego crossing of the Bio Grande, a mile or two below where Fort Thorne was subsequently built. As the Jornada del Muerto was the scene of another incident, its description is postponed for the present. The Rio Grande was crossed without much difficulty, and our camp formed near a large lagoon on the western bank of the river. This lagoon was in fested by wild ducks and brant, and the Apaches took great numbers of them in the following manner. In the early winter, when these birds commenced to arrive in great flocks, the Apaches took large numbers of gourds and set them adrift on the windward side of the lagoon, whence they were gradually propelled by the wind until they reached the opposite side, when they were recovered and again set adrift. At first, the ducks and geese exhibit dread and suspicion of these strange floating objects, but soon get used to them, and pay them no further attention. Having arrived at this stage, 28 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. the Indians then fit these gourds upon their heads, hav ing been furnished with holes for the eyes, nose and mouth, and, armed with a bag, they enter the water not over five feet deep in any part and exactly imitating the bobbing motion of the empty gourd upon the water, succeed in getting close enough to the birds, which are then caught by the feet, suddenly dragged under water, and stowed in the bag. The dexterity and naturalness with which this is done almost exceeds belief, yet it is a common thing among them. About eighteen or twenty miles east of the Copper Mines of Santa Rita, is a hot spring, the waters of which exhibit a heat of 125 degrees Fahrenheit, and after hav ing crossed the Mimbres, the whole party directed its course to this spring. After examining it thoroughly, and having the qualities of its water tested by Dr. Webb, we prosecuted our march; but my attention was soon after arrested by a number of antelopes feeding on the plain, not more than half a mile distant. Anxious to procure one, I left the party, and, galloping in the direc tion of the herd, arrived within five hundred yards of it, when I dismounted and tying my horse to a yucca bush, proceeded cautiously on foot, carbine in hand. Crawl ing from bush to bush, and hiding behind every stone which offered any shelter, I got within handsome range of a fine buck, and feeling sure that the animal could not escape me, I raised to fire, when, just as I was taking aim, I was astonished to see the animal raise erect upon its hind legs, and heard it cry out, in fair Spanish, " No tiros, no liras!" don't fire, don't fire! What I would have sworn was an antelope, proved to be a young In dian, the son of Ponce, a chief, who, having enveloped himself in an antelope's skin, with head, horns and all complete, had gradually crept up to the herd under his LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 29 disguise, until his operations were brought to an untimely end by perceiving my aim directed at him. The Apaches frequently adopt this method of hunting, and imitate the actions of the antelopes so exactly as to completely mislead those animals with the belief that their deadliest enemy is one of their number. We arrived at the Copper Mines, without further acci dent, one day in advance of our military escort, and had no sooner pitched our tent than we were visited by some eight or ten of the most villainous looking Apaches it is possible to conceive. Although the weather was exceed ingly cold, with snow six inches deep on a level, and, in some places where it had drifted, as deep as three or four feet, the Indians were wholly nude, with the exception of a diminutive breech cloth. They bore no arms of any kind and pretended to be very friendly, having undoubt edly seen our train and escort crossing the plain from their various places of observation on the top of Ben Moore, which is eight thousand feet high. Our mules were hitched to the several wheels of the carriage and my horse in the rear, while one of our party kept constant and vigilant watch over the animals. When night fell Dr. Webb informed the Apaches, through me, that they must leave camp, which they did after receiving a few presents in the shape of tobacco, beads and some cotton cloth. A rousing fire was then made in front of the tent, and after a hearty supper our small party retired upon their arms, with one man on guard. It was afterwards discovered that among our visitors were the renowned warriors Delgadito, Ponce and Coletto Amarillo. These were their Mexican names their Indian appellations I never learned. About 11 o'clock, A. M., next day, Col. Craig appeared with his command, and formally took possession of the 30 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. Copper Mines, the great head-quarters of the redoubtable chief, Mangas Colorado, or the "Ked Sleeves/ 3 beyond all comparison the most famous Apache warrior and statesman of the present century. The word statesman is used advisedly in his case, as will be made apparent to the reader in the course of his perusal. The term chief will also be found, hereafter, to have a very great modification, in so far as refers to the Apache race. The Copper Mines of Santa Rita are located imme diately at the foot of a huge and prominent mount ain, named Ben Moore. These extensive mines had been abandoned for the space of eighty years, but were un commonly rich and remunerative. They were formerly owned by a wealthy Mexican company, wjho sent the ore to Chihuahua, where a Government mint existed, and had the ore refined and struck into the copper coinage of the country. Although the distance was over three hundred miles, and every pound of ore had to be trans ported on pack mules, yet it proved a paying business, and mining was vigorously prosecuted for a space of some twenty years. Huge masses of ore, yielding from sixty to ninety per cent, of pure copper, are still visible all about the mine, and frequently considerable pieces of pure copper are met with by the visitor. The reason for its sudden and long abandonment was asked, and the following story related. During the period that the Mexicans carried on opera tions at the mines, the Apaches appeared very friendly, receiving frequent presents, and visiting the houses of the miners without question. But every now and then the Mexicans lost a few mules, or had a man or two killed, and their suspicions were roused against the Apaches, who stoutly denied all knowledge of these acts and put on an air of offended pride. This state of affairs LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 31 continued to grow worse and worse, until an English man, named Johnson, undertook to "settle matters," and to that end received carte blanche from his Mexican employers. Johnson ordered & fiesta, or feast, prepared, and invited all the Copper Mine Apaches to partake. The invitation was joyfully accepted, and between nine hundred and a thousand, including men, women and children, assembled to do justice to the hospitality of their entertainers. They were caused to sit grouped to gether as much as possible, while their host had prepared a six-pounder gun, loaded to the muzzle with slugs, musket balls, nails and pieces of glass, within one hun dred yards of their main body. This cannon was con cealed under a pile of pack saddles and other rubbish, but trained on the spot to be occupied by the Apaches. The time arrived; the feast was ready; the gun loaded and primed; Johnson stood ready with a lighted cigar to give the parting salute, and while all were eating as Apaches only can eat, the terrible storm of death was sped into their ranks, killing, wounding and maiming several hundred. This fearful volley was immediately followed up by a charge on the part of the Mexicans, who showed no pity to the wounded until nearly four hundred victims had been sacrificed at this feast of death. The survivors fled in dismay, and for several months the miners fancied they had forever got rid of the much hated Apaches. It was an ill-grounded hope, as the sequel proved. The Oopper Mines were entirely dependent upon Chi huahua for all supplies, and large conductors, or trains with guards, were employed in the business of bringing in such supplies, and taking away the ore. So regular had been the arrival and departure of these trains, that no efforts were made to retain provisions enough on hand 32 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. in the event of a failure to arrive. Besides, no molesta tion of any kind had been experienced since Johnson's experiment. ' At length three or four clays passed beyond the proper time for the conducta's arrival; provision was becoming exceedingly scarce; ammunition had been ex pended freely; no thought for the morrow had taken possession of their minds, and everything went on in the hap-hazard way of thoughtless Mexicans. No attempt was made to. send a party in quest of the lost train, nor was any economy exercised. Two or three days more passed, and they were on the verge of starvation. The surrounding forests of heavy pines still furnished bear and turkeys, and other game in abundance, but their ammunition was becoming exceedingly scarce. In this dilemma some of the miners climbed Ben Moore, which gave a distinct view of the extensive plain reaching to and beyond the Mimbres river, but no sign of the con- ducta was visible. It was then ordered that a well-armed party should set out and discover its fate, but those who were to be left behind resolved to go also, as they would otherwise be forced to remain without means of defence or provisions. On a given day every man, woman and child residing in the Copper Mines took their departure; but they never reached their place of destination. The relentless Apaches had foreseen all these troubles, and taken measures accordingly. The party left, but their bones, with the exception of only four or five, lie bleach ing upon the wide expanse between the Copper Mines of Santa Rita and the town of Chihuahua. Such is the narrative given me by an intelligent Mexican, whom I afterward met in Sonora. From that time for more than eighty years, the Apache had remained the unmolested master of this his great stronghold. This long interval of quiescence was rudely interrupted by the advent of LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 33 the military escort to the Boundary Commission, which immediately commenced repairing the half-ruined pre sidio, and rendering some fifty small adobe buildings habitable for the members of the Commission. These^ proceedings were watched with great interest and un feigned anxiety by the Apaches, who frequently asked whether we intended to remain at the Copper Mines, and as frequently received a reply in the negative. The real object of our stay was explained to them; but they could not conceive that people should take so much pains to build houses and render them comfortable only for a short residence, to be again abandoned at the very period when men could live in the open air without disquietude. Shortly afterward, the whole Commission, numbering some two hundred and fifty well-armed men, arrived, making a total force of over three hundred men. This odds was more than the Apaches could face, with any prospect of success, and they relapsed into the better part of valor, under the advice of Mangas Colorado and his leading warriors. The gentle nomads pitched their main camp about two miles from the Copper Mines, and made frequent visits to observe our movements and to practice their skill in begging. Although the Copper Mine, or Mimbres Apaches, have signalized themselves by many of the boldest and most daring exploits, they are not physically comparable to the Mescalero, Jicarilla and Chiricahui branches of the same tribe. But what they lack in personal strength they make up in wiliness and endurance. No amount of cold, hunger or thirst seems to have any appreciable effect upon an Apache. "Whatever his sufferings, no com plaint or murmur is ever heard to escape his lips, and he is always ready to engage in any enterprise which prom ises a commensurate reward. Ten Apaches will under- 34 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. take a venture which will stagger the courage and nerve of a hundred Yurnas, Pimos or Navajoes, although the last mentioned tribe is an undoubted branch of the Apache race, as will be shown in a subsequent chapter. The cun ning of the Apache is only equaled by his skill and the audacity with which he executes his projects, and every success is chuckled over with undissembled gusto by the whole tribe, the actors only assuming an unconcerned air, as if wholly disconnected with the matter. Their conversation is always carried on in low tones, and only one person ever presumes to speak at a time. There is no interruption to the speaker's remarks; but when he ceases another takes the word, and either replies or in dorses the opinions of his predecessor. During a general conversation on indifferent topics they separate into sev eral small knots, and in each the above rules are strictly observed. I had selected the most lovery spot in the valley for the site of my tent, which was some six hundred yards distant from the rest, and shut out from sight by an inter vening hillock. At this place the stream widened into a handsome basin ten yards across, and with a little labor I had built a sort of dam, which raised the water in the basin to the depth of about three and a half feet, and formed a delicious bathing pool, which was shaded by a very large and spreading cotton wood tree. At this place the Apaches frequently congregated in consider able numbers, maintaining a lively conversation, and enabling me to make many observations I could not otherwise have done. As I was the only member of the Commission with whom they could converse, my tent became their head-quarters during their visits, which were almost daily for several consecutive months, until our amicable relations were broken up by their irrepressible rascality and treachery. CHAPTER IY. Journey to Sonora. Adventure \vith Apaches. Fronteras. Mexican Dread of Indians. Gen. Carasco. Janos. Mexican Policy toward the Apaches. Carasco's Raid. Gandara, Monteverde and Urea. Death of Carasco. Arispe. Apache Prisoners. Mexican Guard. Apaches Attacking a Mexi can Train. Curious Style of Pursuit. Return to the Copper Mines. Americans Attacked by Apaches. Traits of Apache Character. Craftiness. WERE I to diverge from the proposed plan of narrating only what appertains directly to the elucidation of Indian character, etc., this work might be continued through a series of volumes; but the object of the writer is to con dense his remarks to such incidents as have relation only to the various Indian tribes he encountered in the course of nine years experience among them. In May, the Commissioner resolved on a journey into Sonora, to ascertain whether supplies of corn, flour, sheep, and cattle, could be depended upon from that State for the use of the Commission operating along its northern frontier, and also for other objects immediately affecting the welfare of the body under his orders, and the prose cution of the work committed to his charge. On the afternoon of the third day we camped at a place where several holes had been dug by previous travelers, and being full of sweet water they offered us the first refresh ment of the kind we had enjoyed for forty-eight hours. The country for a long distance was a perfect plain, un broken even by rocks or trees, with here and there a shrub, but none over eighteen inches high. At this place, on a subsequent occasion, an incident illustrative 6b LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. of the Apache race occurred, and it is related here, al though having no connection with our march, for the sake of condensation. Several years after accompanying Mr. Bartlett, it be came necessary for a small party of Americans, five all told, to visit Sonora for provisions, and knowing the road I served as guide. One evening we encamped at the place mentioned above, and again found water for our famishing party and their animals. It was a God-send, as we had been without water for nearly sixt}^ hours. In dian signs in abundance had been observed during the day, and we were all alive to the importance of keeping the strictest watch; accordingly two were placed upon guard at a time. Richard Purdy and myself took the first watch, each one occupying a flank of the camp, cer tainly not a large one, but of the utmost importance. Knowing the nature of the savages, it was agreed that we should not walk our posts, but conceal ourselves as much as possible and keep a sharp lookout. Before nightfall, Purdy and myself took the exact bearings of each shrub within pistol range, and quietly assumed our positions flat down in the grass, each man being sheltered by a small bush. There was no moon, but a bright star light enabled us to perceive objects at some distance. The evening passed quietly, and at eleven o'clock we called two more of our comrades, who assumed our places, after having pointed out to them our precautions. At two o'clock, A. M. , we were again roused to resume guard, and each one took his position. Scarcely an hour had elapsed when it arcpeared to me that a certain small bush had changed position somewhat; but not liking to create a false alarm and be laughed at for my pains, I merely determined to watch it with earnest attention. My suspicions and precaution were amply rewarded by LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 37 perceiving the bush to approach, very gradually indeed, but still unmistakably. I dared not call to Purdy, but got ray rifle to bear, as nearly as possible, upon the root of the bush. When I thought my aim good, and felt tolerably sure of my sights, I pulled the trigger. The shot was followed by the yells of some fifteen Apaches, who had approached within thirty paces of our camp by covering their heads with grass and crawling upon their bellies. Our comrades jumped to their feet and com menced shooting at the Indians, who discharged one volley into our camp and left us masters of the field. We lost one horse, killed, and had another slightly wounded; but a search developed the Apache of the moving bush lying dead, with a hole through his head. Without waiting for dawn the animals were immediately got ready and the party again started on its trip, fearing that the Apaches might get ahead and waylay them in some dangerous pass or canon. Accompanying the Commissioner, in the course of time we arrived at Agua Prieta, from whence I was dispatched with Mr. Thurber and Mr. Stewart to discover the town of Fronteras, and ascertain whether it could be reached with wagons. Mounting our horses we pursued a straight line for the supposed site of the town, passing through some chapparel and over broken ridges, until we arrived upon an extensive and beautiful plain, over which we galloped with free rein. About half an hour before sundown, we discovered a few thin columns of smoke ascending to the right of our road, and nearly ahead, from the top of a slight eminence about three miles dis tant. A few minutes brought us to the spot, but we could perceive no inhabitants about the houses on the plain, but raising our eyes to the hill, we saw the entire population of some nine hundred souls, besides four hun- 3 38 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. dred soldiers, huddled together in evident alarm. They had taken us for Apaches, and fled in dismay to the presidio and protection of the military; but when they discovered that we were Americans, nothing could ex ceed their wonder at our hardihood and folly, as they termed it, in penetrating the country with so small a party. This fact will give the reader some idea of the abject terror with which the poor Mexicans on the fron tiers of Sonora, Chihuahua and Durango regard the Apache Indians. To persons not aware of the causes, this timidity would appear as rank cowardice; but, however true such a charge would be of the masses, yet it must be acknowl edged that there are notable exceptions. The Mexicans on the northern frontier are the very lowest and poorest of their countrymen. Living in hovels and sustaining themselves in some manner never yet determined or as certained by any other people, almost wholly without arms or ammunition, and brought up from their earliest infancy to entertain the most abject dread and horror of the Apaches, they are forever after unable to divest them selves of the belief that an Apache warrior is not a man, but some terrible ogre against whom it is useless to con tend, and who is only to be avoided by flight or appeased by unconditional submission. At Fronteras I met with Gen. Carasco, Military Gov ernor of Sonora, and an old enemy whom it had been my lot to confront during the Mexican war. The Gen eral received us with marked hospitality and kindness; offered us refreshments of which we stood greatly in need, and dispatched runners to show Mr. Bartlett the way into the town. During the evening's session, which lasted into the "wee sma' hours ayont the twal," the conversation turned upon the battle of Cerro Gordo, LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 39 where the General commanded a brigade, and we dis covered that he barely escaped falling into our hands. Discussing the character of the Apaches and the policy of the Mexican Government in their regard, the General made the following remarks : "There is a small town named Janos, in Chihuahua, near the eastern boundary of Sonora, where the Apaches have for several years been received and provided with rations by the Government of that State, although the same Indians were at the time in open war with the Mexicans of Sonora. Not being able to comprehend the virtue of a policy which feeds Indians in one State that they might prey upon and destroy the citizens of an other, I concluded that my duty was to destroy the enemy wherever I could find him. Acting upon this decision, I waited until the allotted time for the Apaches to visit Janos to obtain their regular quarterly rations, and, by forced marches at night, succeeded in reaching the place just as the carnival was at its height. We killed a hun dred and thirty, and took about ninety prisoners, princi pally women and children. Col. Medina, commanding the State of Chihuahua, was so enraged at my action, that he made formal complaint to the Supreme Govern ment, which, however, after some unnecessary delay, ap proved of my course/' I expressed much astonishment at such a condition of affairs, when Carasco added: "It is the old story; our territory is enormous, and our Government weak. It cannot extend its protecting arms throughout all portions of the country. Whole provinces are left for years to themselves, except in the matter of taxation, and things run to ruin. It is to this cause that frequent pronuncia- mentos are attributed. The richest man in either of the distant States is actual lord of the State, and can always 40 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. set the Government at defiance, because it costs so much to reduce him to subordination. I will give you an in stance in point. During the American war, Manuel Gandara loaned the sum of four hundred thousand dol lars to the Supreme Government, receiving its acknowl edgements for that amount, with interest at the rate of ten per cent, per annum. After the war, during the administration of Pena y Pefia, an election for Governor took place in Sonora, in which Manuel Gandara and Manuel Monteverde were the competitors. These fami lies were as deadly rivals as the houses of Borneo and Capulet; and when the voting was over, each candidate claimed the election. As usual, neither applied to the Supreme Government for arbitration, but each sum moned its forces and engaged in civil war. Gandara was backed by his numerous friends, peons, and the Yaqui Indians, while Monteverde enlisted the interests of many prominent Sonorians, and the Opatah and Pap- ago tribes. War raged for a long time, until Monte verde applied to the General Government for protection. Gen. Urea was sent with a force of three thousand reg ulars to suppress Gandara, and for a time succeeded. At this stage of the proceedings, Gandara called upon the Supreme Government to refund his loan of four hundred thousand dollars, threatening that if payment were not forthcoming, he would assign his claim to the British Government. This threat had its effect, and soon after Gandara was put in possession of an order, emanating from the Secretary of War, to the effect that Urea had been operating without proper warrant of au thority, and that if Gandara could catch that officer, he was at liberty to suspend him by the neck. This thor oughly frightened Urea, who immediately returned to the capital." LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 41 /' added Carasco, "you can appreciate the del icate position in whi^h I find myself. I am ordered to the military command of Sonora, but am supplied with neither men nor money. Every day I was pained by accounts of dreadful Apache raids, in which men were massacred ; women and children carried off captives; horses and property destroyed, and extensive districts laid waste and abandoned. At length I resorted to forced contributions from the rich and impressed the poor, determined they should fight for their own in terests. This makes me unpopular with all parties, and I expect, some day, to be assassinated for my zeal in their behalf." Prophetic words! In less than a year Carasco was taken off by poison; so, at least, it was reported. "Wending our way from Fronteras we reached Arispe, the former capital of Sonora, on the 31st of May, 1850. At the time of our visit the place contained about twelve hundred inhabitants; but no American can possibly con jecture the terror felt by the people, of all classes, when ever it w r as announced that the Apaches were near. The second day after our arrival five Apache prisoners two warriors and three women were brought into town under a strong guard of twenty-five soldiers, and lodged in the town jail to await their ultimate destination. Two days afterward the rain poured down in torrents; the night was exceedingly dark and stormy ; reverberating peals of thunder shook the solid hills,' and repeated flashes of the most vivid lightning inspired the beholder with awe. The Mexican guard over the prisoners retired within and lighted their cigaritos, or engaged in the hazards of monte. The doors were securely closed and all prepared to pass the watch away with as much relish as the circum stances w r ould permit. A little after midnight certain peculiar noises were heard about the prison and were 42 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. repeated with an emphasis which compelled attention. Instinctively the guard knew that these noises proceeded from Apaches who were in quest of their incarcerated friends, and the fact was quickly made apparent by the prisoners, who commenced a chant in their native tongue loud enough to be heard outside. Here was a dilemma. The Indians were undoubtedly watching the door with intense interest, and no one dared go forth in that im penetrable gloom to face the savage foe. The force of the enemy was unknown. The citizens could not be re lied upon for aid; no one would come to their assistance if attacked; they only numbered eight men and a sergeant, and they were panic-stricken. Perceiving this state of affairs, the Apache prisoners boldly advanced and de manded to be let out, at the same time giving fearful yells to apprise their friends of their designs, which were seconded by repeated strokes of heavy stones against the door. In their overpowering terror the guard mustered its whole strength, opened the door slightly and per mitted their savage charge to leave. It is needless to add that they were never seen more. This is no figment of the brain, but the real, undisguised fact, and is recorded for the purpose of showing how completely the Apaches have control of the Mexican race upon the frontier. Another incident illustrative of this supremacy occurred in the same town. A band of fifteen Apaches pursued a pack train and overtook it within three hundred yards of Arispe. The arrieros saved themselves by speedy night, but the train was plundered and the mules driven off. "Within an hour nearly two hundred armed men assembled with the avowed purpose of pursuing the savages and re covering the plunder. I happened to be on the Plaza at the time, and had just before observed the Indians mak ing for the mountains lying east of the town. Which LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 43 way did they go ? asked the Mexican leader. I pointed out the direction, and also called his attention to the vol ume of dust raised by the retreating savages. He thanked me, placed himself at the head of his column, cried out, "Marchamos valientes" let us march, brave fellows and took a course the very opposite of the one pointed out. I then and there made up my mind, that if a similar affair should ever happen where I was, and a Mexican should inquire the route of the Indians, I would indicate the opposite to the one actually taken. On our return from Sonora we met a force of two hun dred Mexican soldiers in the Guadalupe Pass, who in formed us that a party of ten Americans had been waylaid by the Apaches near the town of Janos, in Chihuahua, and that one was killed and three others wounded, the panic-stricken survivors saving themselves by precipitate flight. I felt convinced that this villainy had been per petrated by the Copper Mine Apaches, who had been so seemingly friendly with us, but could not substantiate the charge. Subsequent revelations satisfied me that my suspicions were well founded, for soon after our arrival at the Copper Mines Mr. Bartlett sounded Mangas Colo rado on the subject, but he denied any knowledge what ever of the affair; yet two days afterward admitted that he knew about it, and said that it had been done by some bad young men over whom he had no control. An Apache is trained from his earliest infancy to regard all other people as his natural enemies. He is taught that the chief excellence of man is to outwit his fellows. He is made to feel that the highest honors are bestowed upon him who is master of the greatest amount of rascality. The favors of the women are lavished upon the most adroit thief, because his dexterity enables him to furnish a more copious supply to their wants and caprices. As 44 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. they never engage in any pursuit except that of war and the chase, all their worldly goods are the results of their skill and proficiency in these vocations. Polygamy being an institution among them, the man who can support or keep, or attract by his power to keep, the greatest num ber of women, is the man who is deemed entitled to the greatest amount of honor and respect. Gianatah is a great brave, said one in my hearing does he not keep seven squaws ? and yet Gianatah was not, so far as per sonal bravery goes, the leading warrior of his band; but he was the most dexterous thief. After our return to the Copper Mines, I was sitting in front of my tent one afternoon, writing a letter, when an Apache approached and for some reason regarded me attentively. " What are you doing? " he at length inquired. " Talking to my friends at home/' ' ' But how can you talk to them so far off? " " I will tell you. When the Apache desires to indicate speed he makes the figure of a bird; if he wishes to de note something beautiful or sweet, he delineates a flower; if he desires to express sloth, he makes the figure of a tortoise. These facts you know; but we do not use those symbols, and in their place we have agreed upon certain, characters, which being put together make words and indicate ideas. For instance, you see we make such marks; well, I send this paper to my friends, and they know just what these marks mean, the same as you would know what a bird or a tortoise meant; because we have all agreed upon a distinct and special interpretation." These ideas were expressed to him in Spanish with great distinctness, and repeated until he seemed to comprehend their gist. The savage pondered for a while, and then said: " I LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 45 do not believe you; those characters all seem alike; no body can distinguish any difference among many of them; you are trying to fool me, and make me believe you are a great medicine man." " Indian," I answered, " I will give you proof. You see yonder man? He is the sutler. I will give you a note to him, authorizing you to receive a piece of tobacco; he is at least four hundred yards away, and cannot know of this conversation. If he gives you the tobacco on the reception of my note, you must believe." "Very good; my white-eyed brother speaks well. I will make the trial, and will see if he says truth." The note was written and delivered to my copper- colored friend, who started off on a brisk trot until he reached the sutler, to whom he delivered his order. Having read it, the sutler handed him a piece of tobacco, which seemed greatly to excite his astonishment. My friend looked at the weed, then scratched his head and looked again, in undisguised wonderment, advancing toward my tent steadily. "When within twenty yards, I noticed his eyes gleam with suppressed satisfaction, and hastily coming up, he said: "Look here, white man, you try to make a fool of poor Apache. You and the other man made this thing up beforehand, to force me into the belief that you are a great medicine. Now, if you want me to believe you, just write another letter for another piece of tobacco, and if he gives it to me, then I will believe." It is needless to add that the cunning ruse of the Apache to secure two pieces of tobacco, did not succeed. Although my tent was so far removed from, the rest of the Commission as to render me isolated from the pro tection of my comrades, I never experienced any alarm, as I possessed two very large and fine dogs, and was ac- 46 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. companied by my servant, Josd, a faithful and brave Mex ican boy, of some nineteen years of age. My armory consisted of four six-shooters, two rifles, a double-bar reled shot gun, two bowie-knives, and plenty of ammu nition for each weapon. I could discharge twenty-eight shots without reloading, and backed by Jose and my faithful dogs, which kept the strictest watch at night, I was satisfied that a moderate band of Indians could be kept at bay until assistance arrived. This fancied secur ity was destroyed after a few weeks, by a circumstance which will be related in a future chapter; but it required very strong motives to induce my relinquishment of the most pleasant location at the Copper Mines. CHAPTER Y. Mangas Colorado. His Personal Appearance, Power, and Influence. Indian Forces at the Copper Mines. The Navajoes. Their Appearance and Sub sequent Acts. Their Schemes Foiled. Mangas in Full Uniform. Strange Mode of Attire. Inez Gonzales. Her Rescue. New Mexican Traders. Summary Proceedings. Story of Inez. March into Sonora. Santa Cruz. Restoration of Inez. Her subsequent History. Tanori. MANGAS COLORADO, or Ked Sleeves, was, undoubtedly, the most prominent and influential Apache who has existed for a century. Gifted with a large and powerful frame, corded with iron-like sinews and muscles, and possessed of far more than an ordinary amount of brain strength, he succeeded, at an early age, in winning a reputation unequaled in his tribe. His daring exploits, his wonderful resources, his diplomatic abilities, and his wise teachings in council soon surrounded him with a large and influential band, which gave him a sort of prestige and sway among the various branches of his race, and carried his influence from the Colorado river to the Guadalupe mountains. Throughout Arizona and New Mexico, Mangas Colorado was a power in the land. Yet he could assume no authority not delegated to him by his people. He never presumed to speak for them as one having authority, but invariably said he would use his influence to perform certain promises and engage ments. Mangas, in one of his raids into Sonora, carried off a handsome and intelligent Mexican girl, whom he made his wife, to the exclusion of his Apache squaws. This singular favoritism bred some trouble in the tribe 48 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. for a short time, but was suddenly ended by Mangas challenging any of the offended brothers or relatives of his discarded wives. Two accepted the wager, and both were killed in fair duel. By his Mexican wife Mangas had three really beautiful daughters, and through his diplomatic ability, he managed to wive one with the chief of the Navajoes; another with the leading man of the Mescalero Apaches, and the third with the war chief of th^ Coyoteros. By so doing, he acquired a very great influence in these tribes, and, whenever he desired, could obtain their assistance in his raids. His height was about six feet; his head was enormously large, with a broad, bold forehead, a large acquiline nose, a most capacious mouth, and broad, heavy chin. His eyes were rather small, but exceedingly brilliant and flashing when under any excitement although his outside demeanor was as imperturbable as brass. This is the man we met at the Copper Mines; but as his name will be mentioned many times in the course of this narrative, in connection with his acts, no more need be added at present. His most immediate counselors and attaches were Delgadito, Ponce, Cuchillo Negro, Coletto Amarillo, El Chico, and Pedro Azul. These were all appellations bestowed by Mexicans, and not their Apache names, which I never learned. The Indian force about the Copper Mines amounted, according to my calculations, to four hundred warriors, who were no match for the three hundred well armed and thoroughly organized Americans.at the place. Four or five weeks elapsed in amicable intercourse with the Apaches; but from occasional expressions, I felt con vinced that Mangas had sought aid for the purpose of expelling us at the earliest possible moment. Nothing, however, occurred to strengthen my suspicions, and I LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 49 had almost dismissed them entirely, when I was sur prised one morning to see the camp full of strange sav ages, who proved to be Navajoes, and were on the best terms with the Apaches. The new comers were fine looking, physically, but carried in their faces that name less yet unmistakable impress of low cunning and treachery, which I afterward found to be the leading- traits of their tribe. Although they are of the great Apache race, speaking identically the same language and observing the same general habits of life in all respects, yet they are far inferior in point of courage, prowess, skill and intelligence. Five Apache warriors will undertake and accomplish an exploit which no fifty Navajoes would venture to perform. A. single Apache will go off, unaided, and commit a daring rob bery or murder which twenty Navajoes would shrink from attempting. Our new visitors were all mounted on small, but strong, active and wiry looking horses, which they rode with remarkable ease and grace. Feeling satisfied in m}^ own mind that they had come there at the request of Mangas Colorado, I advised Col. Craig of my suspicions, and he, in turn, imparted the idea to Mr. Bartlett. We learned that four hundred Navajo warriors were encamped on the Gila river, only thirty miles distant, and knew that the Indian Commissariat could not support so great a number for any length of time, and that no such assem blage would have been got together in that portion of the country unless for some determined purpose. The hunting grounds around the Copper Mines offered no special inducement, as they must have crossed a hundred and fifty miles of better hunting country to arrive where they then were. There was no trading to rely upon, and on special incentive other than to help Mangas in driv- 50 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. ing us out of the place, or assisting him to steal our animals. Their visits were very regular for three or four days, when, probably finding us too strong and too much on our guard to attack, they disappeared for a while, to return some weeks after and help to carry off our horses and mules. Daring their stay, my tent and its neigh borhood were crowded with these savages, who asked me a multitude of questions, but never answered one of mine. This reticence on their part taught me a lesson, and I soon learned to endure their presence with perfect equanimity and nonchalance, smoking and replying to their queries with a simple nod or wave of the hand. My six-shooters and knife were always upon my person duiing these interviews, and my boy Jose sat in the back part of the tent with a Sharp's carbine and double bar reled gun, well loaded with buckshot, within easy reach. I never permitted a Navajo to get behind me, and, while treating them with courtesy, gave them to understand that I had no special feeling on the subject, but regarded their visits as a matter of course. It was a noticeable fact that neither Mangas Colorado or any of his leading men ever mixed with the Navajoes while in our camp, and judging this conduct somewhat strained and unnatural, Mr. "Wiems and myself deter mined to watch them. In pursuance of this object, we saddled our horses one evening after the Indians had re tired, for they were never permitted in camp after sun set, and very quietly picked our way to their bivouac, about two miles distant at that time. Gaining a slight eminence that overlooked them, we applied our field glasses, and, by the light of their fires, distinctly saw Mangas and the principal men in close conference with the leading Navajoes. This fact was also reported to LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 51 Col. Craig, who took additional precautions, which had the effect of relieving us from the presence of the new comers. In after years, it was my lot to make a very ex tensive and sanguinary acquaintance with this tribe, and the opportunity was improved to the utmost. Thousands of them were subjected to my control, and quite a num ber of them remembered me from the time we met at the Copper Mines. In several conversations I accused them of coming to aid Mangas, and assisting him in getting rid of his unwelcome intruders; and on each occasion they frankly admitted that they Lad visited the Copper Mines with that intention. Mangas had sent messengers to tell them that a large body of Americans had come into his country; that they were very rich in horses, mules, cotton cloth, beads, knives, pistols, rifles and ammunition; that he was not strong enough to murder and plunder us himself, and therefore required their aid, in which case one half the plunder was to be theirs, in the event of success. Lured by these promises, and urged by their chief, who was the son-in-law of Mangas, four hundred of them had come down to help that re nowned warrior. They met in council, and agreed to come in and spy out the land before commencing oper- 'ations, little supposing that we would discern any differ ence between them and the Apaches proper. Should matters promise well, a sudden attack was to be made by their united forces; but if that was not practicable without great loss of life on their part, then the system of distressing us by stealing our animals and cutting off small parties, was to be adopted. All these statements I got from Manuelito and others, at Fort Sumner, thir teen years after our occupation of the Copper Mines in Arizona. The subject was frequently talked over, and remembered as vividly as if it were a thing of yesterday. 52 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. Mr. Bartlett, in order to retain the supposed friend ship of Mangas, had a fine pair of blue pants, ornamented with a wide red stripe down the outside of the legs, made for that respectable individual. To this were added a good field officer's uniform and epaulettes, given by Col. Craig, a new white shirt, black cravat, and an excellent pair of new shoes, such as are furnished to our soldiers. It was my duty to invest Mangas in his new suit, but some difficulty was experienced in getting him to wear his shirt inside of his pants instead of outside. After a time he made his appearance in grande tenue, evidently in love with his own elegant person. During the whole day he strutted about the camp, the envied of all behold ers, and as vain of his new dress as a peacock of his feathers. The next day Mangas failed to put in an ap pearance; but the day after he came, with his pantaloons wrapped around his waist; his shirt, dirty and partly torn, outside; his uniform coat buttoned to his chin; one epaulet on his breast, and the other fastened, bul lion down, between the hind buttons of his coat. In this guise he fancied himself an object worthy of uni versal admiration; and as he walked along, he would turn his eyes over his shoulder to relish the brilliant flashes of his posterior ornament. In less than a week, coat, shirt, pants and epaulettes were sported by another Indian after his fashion. Mangas had gambled them away, and the wearer was the fortunate winner. On the evening of the 27th of June, 1850, Mr. W. Bausman, Mr. J. E. "Wierns and myself were standing in front of the sutler's store, when we perceived a light, resembling a camp fire, about two hundred yards distant, near the banks of the creek. We knew that Indians were prohibited from being there after sundown, and as none of the Commission dwelt in that direction, it was LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 53 agreed to go and find out who were the campers about the fire. We approached cautiousty, and found our selves in a bivouac of Indians and Mexicans. Among them was a young and handsome girl, clothed in a tat tered chemise, with a buckskin skirt, and another skin thrown over her shoulders. This girl, who was not an In dian, appeared to be the waitress of the party, for whom she was preparing supper. As our approach had not been observed, we quietly proceeded to the cook fire, which was about four yards from the party, and I asked the girl, in a low voice, who those people were. She seemed evidently alarmed, and refusing to answer, hur ried away to wait upon her associates. We remained until she came back, when I told her that it was necessary for U3 to know who they were; to which she placed her fin ger on her lips, and betokened that she dared not tell. The question was, however, pressed, when she stated in a whisper that she was a captive, and that the Mexicans present had just bought her, and were going to convey her to New Mexico. As this thing was specially prohib ited by the United States laws, we made our way imme diately to Mr. Bartlett and laid the matter before that gentleman for his consideration. With great prompt itude Mr. Bartlett communicated the facts, in writing, to Col. Craig, and asked that gallant officer for a v force to rescue the girl from her unhappy condition. This re quest was granted as soon as possible, and Lieut. Green was ordered to take a file of men and bring the girl be fore the Commissioner. This was done without delay, and the captive placed for the night under the care of Mr. Bartlett, who assigned her a comfortable room, and placed a proper guard over her quarters. In the meantime the Apaches had slipped away, but a guard was put over the Mexican traders for the night. 54 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. Next day they were summoned before the Commissioner to account for their possession of the girl, and their in tentions as to her future disposal. Next morning the traders respectively gave their names as Peter Blacklaws a very appropriate nomenclature Pedro Archeveque, which, being translated, means Peter Archbishop a very inappropriate name and Faustin Yaldes. The testimony extracted from these men was extremely conflicting, but the tenor of it went to show that they were engaged, with some fifty others, in unlawful barter and trade with the Indians, selling them powder and arms, probably, in ex change for female Mexican captives of attractive persons, horses, skins, etc. Mr. Bartlett felt fully authorized to deprive them of the captive, but having no authority to punish the scoundrels, they were released; they were im mediately af terwards waited upon by several gentlemen of the Commission, who gave them to understand that any delay in getting out of that place would be attended with imminent danger. In less than twenty minutes they had left the Copper Mines, poorer but wiser men. The young captive gave her name as Inez Gonzales, the eldest child of Jesus Gonzales, of Santa Cruz, on the frontier of Sonora. About nine months previous, she had left Santa Cruz with her uncle, aunt, a female friend and her friend's brother, for the purpose of being pres ent at the grande fiesta de Nuestra Senora de la Magda- lena, or, the grand feast of our Lady of Magdalena. They were protected by a military escort of ten soldiers and an ensign. The second day of their journey they were ambushed by a large party of El Pinal Apaches, who killed her uncle and eight soldiers, including their officer, and carried off her and her two female friends, with the boy. For seven months she had been in their power, and made to perform all the hard labor of an LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 55 Apache squaw, receiving kicks and blows as her reward. One old woman of the tribe, who had a tongue which made even the warriors quail, however, took a passing fancy for Inez, and from that time protected her from insult or harm so long as she remained among them. Her companions in captivity were subsequently pur chased by a band of New Mexican traders, who took them olT in a northerly direction. She never saw or heard of them afterwards. A second party had seen and purchased her, with the view of taking her to Santa Fe, for speculative and villainous purposes, when she was rescued by the Commission, every member of which vied with each other to extend their protection and care over this poor and suffering girl. Although she remained among us until her restoration to her parents and home, the sequel of her adventures will be given now. On the morning of the 27th of August, exactly two months from the date of her rescue, the Commission left the Copper Mines, to prosecute its duties in the field, and as it had become necessary to visit Sonora again, Mr. Bartlett determined upon giving himself the gratifi cation of restoring the fair Inez to the arms of her mourn ing mother. After many days' wandering, during which our small party was frequently reduced to only five or six,- by reason of sending off occasional detachments, and after having lost our way and been forced to the necessity of living upon purslain and water for several successive days, we finally arrived near the town of Santa Cruz, on the 22d of September, nearly a month subse quent to leaving the Copper Mines. On the morning of the 23d, just one year to a day from the date of her cap ture, two men were dispatched to inform the family of Inez of her safety, and to add that she would be with her relations in four or five hours. About three miles 56 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. from town we met a large and joyous party of Mexicans, arrayed in their gaudiest holiday costumes, and headed by the mother of our fair charge. They had come out to welcome her return and release from captivity among the Apaches, a thing never before known to have occurred. Mr. Bartlett conceded to me the privilege of placing Inez into the longing arms of her mother, who, after repeated embraces, and amidst alternate tears, prayers, thanks givings and joyous cries, yielded her place to the strong but inferior claims of other relatives and friends, all of whom ardently and most affectionately embraced her by turns. It was one of the most affecting scenes conceiva ble, and, in joyous procession, the whole party entered the town, amidst the loudest acclamations of the entire population. Inez immediately entered the church, where the good priest was in attendance, and went through a solemn ceremony and thanksgiving. These scenes and all their attendant circumstances have ever been among the most pleasant in my remembrance. They form a delicious oasis amidst the unpleasant recollections of " man's inhumanity to man/' Her own father had been deceased for some years, and the mother of Inez was then married to a man named Ortis, a very excellent, honest and reliable Mexican, who testified quite as much joy at her release from a captivity far worse than death, as if she had been his own child. The future career of this young and attractive girl, whose fate was so suddenly and providentially changed, is worthy of record. Some months after the Commission left, on its way to ward California, Inez attracted and secured the admira tion of a Captain Gomez in the Mexican Regular Army, and, at that time, in command of the frontier town of Tubac. The relaxed state of morals among the Mexi- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 57 cans seemed to warrant the poor girl in becoming his mistress for a time, but he subsequently made amends by marrying her and legitimatizing the two fine boys she bore him. Many years passed before I again saw or heard of Inez, and it was not until the fall of 1862, that I learned, while in Tucson, that she was still alive, but quite unwell. Capt., Gomez had been dead some years, and she was again married to the Alcalde of Santa Cruz, and had borne him two children a boy and a girl. Hav ing casually learned that I was in Tucson, and an officer in the Union Army, she dispatched me a letter, begging that I would order some one of our physicians to visit and prescribe for her. Of course, the poor girl, in her ignorance, had asked what it was impossible to grant, and I sadly dismissed the subject from my mind. In 1864, it was again my lot to be within fifty miles of Santa Cruz, when a bold Opatah Indian chief, named Tanori, who had been commissioned as Colonel by Max imilian, had the temerity to cross our frontier with nearly seven hundred men and fire upon the people of the American town of San Gabriel, located two miles north of the dividing line, and fourteen miles from Santa Cruz. The excuse for this outrage was, that he had pur sued the Liberal General, Jesus Garcia Morales, across our lines, and that he had not transcended his duty in so doing. Complaint of this raid having been made to me by the town authorities of San Gabriel, I immediately took the saddle, with one hundred and forty troopers, and marched straight to that place. Upon my arrival, I obtained affidavits of all the facts, and, having received permission from the acknowledged authorities of Sonora, determined to pursue Tanori and punish that gentleman for his audacious conduct. He had retired upon Santa Cruz, whither I followed 58 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. without delay; but, hearing of our approach, he has tened forward to Imurez with wonderful celerity, and, although the Adjutant, Lieut. Coddington, was dis patched, at speed, to request a delay on his part so that we could arrange matters, he excused himself by saying that ' ' his orders were imperative to reach Ures without delay/' As a proof with what rapidity the Mexican in fantry can cover the ground when an enemy is in pur suit, it is a fact that Tanori, with over six hundred men, mostly infantry, made the march from Santa Cruz to Imurez, a distance of forty-three miles, in the space of nine hours. He left Santa Cruz at five o'clock in the morning, and I subsequently learned that he conversed with the party from whom I Deceived my information, in the town of Imurez, at two o'clock in the afternoon of the same day. About three hundred of his men were there with him at the time mentioned. My trip to Santa Cruz offered me the opportunity to visit Inez, whom I found to be the respected wife of the chief and most influential man in that little community. She has an affectionate husband, who is by no means cramped for this world's goods; is surrounded by a fine and promising family of three boys and a girl, and is uni versally esteemed for her many excellent qualities. It is needless to state that my reception was most cordial and enthusiastic. This sequel of her history will un doubtedly be received with sincere pleasure by all who were members of Mr. Bartlett's Commission, and by none with more interest than Mr. Bartlett and Dr. "Webb. CHAP TEE VI. Rescue of Two Mexican Boys. War Talk. Exciting Scene. Peaceful Termina tion. Large Indian Forces. An Apache lulled by a Mexican. Intense Excitement. Fearless Conductor Col. Craig. The Apaches Pacified. Another War Talk. Amicable Kesult. Necessity of Firmness and Pre caution. IT lias already been stated that my tent was pitched several hundred yards from the rest of the Commission, and hidden from the view of my companions by an in tervening hillock. This fact rendered me far more cau tious than I otherwise would have been. Several days subsequent to the rescue of Inez, the afternoon being exceedingly hot and sultry, I was lying on my cot read ing a work borrowed from Dr. "Webb, while Joso was busy in front of the tent, washing some clothes in the pool. A very large number of Apaches were in our camp that clay, but had not disturbed me, as was their usual custom. Suddenly, two boys, evidently Mexicans, darted into my tent, got under my cot, and concealed them selves between the side of the tent and the drooping blankets. This visitation, in such an abrupt and irregu lar manner, excited my surprise, and I asked who they were and what they wanted. ee Somos Mejicanos, cabal- lero, y estamos cautivos con los Apaches, y nos hemos escon- dido aqui para escaparles. Por Dios no nos rinde otra vez entre ellos," which means in English "We are Mex icans, sir, and we are captives among the Apaches, and we have hidden here to escape them. For God's sake, do not deliver us again among them." 60 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. I called to Jos3, and asked: "Are there any Indians close by." "No, sir," he replied, "but they are coming this way." I instantly jumped from the cot, thrust two six-shoot ers in my belt, took two more in my hands, one in each, ordered Josd to sling the carbine over his shoulder and carry the double-barreled gun in his hands, and telling ,the boys to keep close to my side one on the right and the other on the left I sallied from the tent with the de termination to take these captives to the Commissioner, for his disposal. We had not proceeded twenty yards before a band of some thirty or forty surrounded us, and with menacing words ,and gestures, demanded the instant release of their captives; but, having made up my mind, I was de termined to carry out my intention at all risks. I told Joso to place his back to mine, cock his gun and shoot the first Indian he saw bend his bow or give sign of ac tive hostility; while, with a cocked pistol in each hand, we went circling round, so as to face all parts of the ring in succession, at the same time warning the savages to keep their distance. In this manner we accomplished about two hundred yards, when my situation was per ceived by several gentlemen of the Commission, and, drawing their pistols, they advanced to my aid. The Indians relinguished their attempts and accompanied us peaceably to the Commissioner, to whom I surrendered the boys and detailed the aifair. The boys were respect ively named Savero Aredia and Josd Trinfan, the former aged thirteen, and a native of Bacuachi, in Sonora, and the latter aged about eleven, and a native of Fronteras, in the same State. The next day at night, Mr. Bartlett sent them to the camp of Gen. Garcia Conde, the Mexi- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 61 can Commissioner. They were accompanied by a strong guard, which delivered them safely to the General, who subsequently restored them to their respective families, much to their wonder and gratification. Four or five days afterward, Mangas Colorado, Ponce, Delgadito, Cuchillo Negro, Coletto Amarillo, and some two hundred warriors, together with the fellow who claimed the boys, entered the Copper Mines, to have a " big talk." Mr. Bartlett was not at all displeased to see them, and determined to settle the matter at once. The mass of Indians formed themselves in a semicircle, two and three deep, facing the door of the room in which the talk was had, while the principal men and about a dozen of the Commission, well armed, occupied a large room in our adobe building. Pipes and tobacco were handed round and a "cloud blown" before the real business of the seance commenced. About a hundred and fifty of the Commission were near at hand with their arms ready. After a long and profound silence, the conversation was commenced by Mangas Colorado, on the part of the Apaches, and by myself, on the part of the Americans, every expression of the savages being taken down in writing, and then translated to Mr. Bartlett, who dic tated a reply, if anything important occurred to him, or allowed the interpreter to respond, as the circumstances would permit. As the succeeding recital of the interview was originally written out in full by myself, and handed to Mr. Bartlett as the official record, and subsequently published by him without alteration, I deem myself jus tified in making use of it for this work. Mangas Colorado spoke and said: "Why did you take our captives from us ?" Reply. "Your captives came to us and demanded our protection." 4 62 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. Mangos Colorado. "You came to our country. You were well received. Your lives, your property, your an imals were safe. You passed by ones, by twos, by threes through our country. You went and came in peace. Your strayed animals were always brought home to you again. Our wives, our women and children came here and visited your houses. We were friends we were brothers! Believing this, we came among you and brought our captives, relying on it that we were brothers and that you would feel as we feel. We concealed noth ing. We came not secretly nor in the night. We came in open day, and before your faces, and showed our cap tives to you. We believed your assurances of friendship, and we trusted them. Why did you take our captives from us ?" Reply. "What we have said to you is true. We do not tell lies. The greatness and dignity of our nation forbid our doing so mean a thing. What our brother has said is true and good also. We will now tell him why we took his captives away. Four years ago, we, too, were at war with Mexico. We know that the Apaches make a distinction between Chihuahua and So-nora. They are now at peace with Chihuahua, but at war with Sonora. We, in our war, did not make that distinction. The Mexicans, whether living in one or the other State, are all one nation, and we fought them as a nation. When the war was over, in which we conquered, we made peace with them. They are now our friends, and by the terms of the peace we are bound to protect them. We told you this when we first came here, and requested you to cease from hostility against Mexico. Time passed', and we grew very friendly; everything went well. You came in here with your captives. Who were those cap tives? Mexicans; the very people we told you we were LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 63 bound to protect. We took them from you and sent them to Gen. Garcia Conde, who will set them at liberty in their own country. We mean to show you that we cannot lie. We promised protection to the Mexicans, and we gave it to them. We promise friendship and protection to you, and we will give them to you. If we had not done so to Mexico, you would not believe us with regard to yourselves. We cannot lie." During the above conversation, which was carried on in a slow and dignified manner, Ponce was becoming very much excited, altogether too much so for an Indian, and being unable to restrain himself any longer, he arose, and, with many gesticulations, said: Ponce. "Yes, but you took our captives without be forehand cautioning us. We were ignorant of this prom ise to restore captives. They were made prisoners in lawful warfare. They belong to us. They are our prop erty. Our people have also been made captives by Mex icans. If we had known of this thing, we would not have come here. We would not have placed that confidence in you." Reply. "Our brother speaks in anger, and without reflection. Boys and women lose their temper, but men reflect and argue; and he who has reason and justice on his side, wins. No doubt, you have suffered much by the Mexicans. This is a question in which it is impossi ble for us to tell who is wrong, or who is right. You and the Mexicans accuse each other of being the aggres sors. Our duty is to fulfill our promise to both. This opportunity enables us to show to Mexico that we mean what we say, and when the time comes, we will be ready and prompt to prove the good faith of our promises to you." Ponce. "I am neither a boy nor a squaw. lama 64 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. man and a brave. I speak with reflection. I know what I say. I speak of the wrongs we have suffered and those you now do us." Then, placing his hand on my shoulder, he said in a very excited manner "You must not speak any more. Let some one else speak." As this was rather more than I had bargained for, I Immediately placed both hands on his shoulders, and, crushing him down on the floor, I said : ' ' I want you to understand that / am the veiy one to speak the only one who can speak to you. Now, stay there. Do you sit down. You are a squaw and no brave. I will select a man to speak for the Apaches. Delgadito (beckoning to that warrior) do you come here and speak for your nation." It is impossible to describe the smothered rage of Ponce, but he saw there was no chance, and never again uttered a word during the session. Delgadito then arose and said : ' ' Let my brother de clare the mind of his people." Reply. "We wish to explain to our Apache brethren why we have done this thing, and what we can do for the late owner of those captives. We know that you have not acted secretly or in the dark. You came in open day, and brought your captives among us. We took them in open day, in obedience to orders from our great chief at Washington. The great chief of our na tion said : ' You must take all the Mexican captives you meet among the Apaches and set them at liberty.' We cannot disobey this order, and for this reason we have taken away your captives." Delgadito. "We cannot doubt the words of our brave white brethren. The Americans are braves. We know it, and we believe a brave scorns to lie. But the owner of these captives is poor. He cannot lose his prisoners, LIFE AMOXG THE APACHES. 65 who were obtained at the risk of his life, and purchased by the blood of his relatives. He justly demands his captives. We are his friends, and wish to see this de mand complied with. It is just, and as justice we de mand it." Reply. "We will tell our Apache brethren what can be done. The captives cannot be restored. The Com missioner cannot buy them. No American can buy them ; but there is a Mexican in our employ who is anxious to buy and restore them to their homes. We have no ob jection that he should do so; and if he is not rich enough" some of us will lend him the means." Delgadito. "The owner does not wish to sell; he wants his captives." Eeply. " Our brother has already been told that this cannot be. We do not speak with two tongues. Make up your minds." A short consultation was then held among the leading Apaches, after which Delgadito said: " The owner wants twenty horses for them." Reply. "The Apache laughs at his white brother. He thinks him a squaw, and that he can play with him as with an arrow. Let the Apache say again." Delgadito. "The brave who owns these captives does, not want to sell. He has had one of these boys six years. He grew up under him. His heart-strings are bound around him. He is as a son to his old age. He speaks our language, and he cannot sell him. Money cannot buy affection. His heart cannot be sold. He taught him to string the bow and wield the lance. He loves the boy and cannot sell him." Reply. "We are sorry that this thing should be. We feel for our Apache brother, and would like to lighten his heart. But it is not our fault. Our brother has fixed 66 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. his affection on the child of his enemy. It is very noble. But our duty is stern. "We cannot avoid it. It wounds our hearts to hurt our friends; but if they were our own children, and the duty of the law said: ' Part with them; part with them/ we would. Let our Apache brother re flect, and name his price." Delgadito. tt 'Wh&i will you give?" To which Mr. Bartlett replied: " Come and I will show you." The whole conclave then broke up and adjourned to the^ Commissary's stores, where goods, such as calicoes, blankets and sheetings, to the value of two hundred and fifty dollars were laid out for their acceptance. This was more than Apache cupidity could stand; the bargain was soon closed, and the affair passed away in peace. But it was never forgotten, and I felt positive that the time would come when they would endeavor to wreak their ill- concealed vengeance. My expectations were justified by the result, for they ultimately stole nearly two hundred head of animals from the Commission. At this period the band of Mangas Colorado, number ing some three hundred warriors, remained encamped about four miles distant, while that of Delgadito, num bering nearly as many, occupied the valley of the Mim- bres river, eighteen miles off. At the same time four hundred Navajoes occupied the banks of the Gila, distant twenty-eight miles. We were thus placed between three large Indian forces, but took no notice of the fact, con tinuing our hunting excursions in twos and threes with as much apparent indifference as ever, and adopting the precaution of taking our six-shooters and plenty of am munition, as well as our rifles. On the 6th of July, a Mexican, named Jesus Lopez, in the employ of the Commission, had a dispute with an LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 67 Apache, which terminated by the Mexican shooting his savage friend. Large numbers of Apaches, including Mangas Colorado and several prominent men, were in our camp at the time, but in a moment they mounted their active ponies and were fleeing in all directions. Col. Craig called upon me to follow him, and we rushed out and up the hills after the Apaches, telling them not to go, that we were friends, that the murderer was already a prisoner, and that full justice would be done them. Affcer many persuasions, we induced them to calm their fears and come back. The prisoner was shown them with chains on his feet in care of the guard; while the wounded man was taken to the hospital and accorded every assistance. He lingered for a month and then died, surrounded by his friends, who had been witnesses to the care bestowed upon him. This affair brought on another talk, which took place a few days after his burial, which was performed by his own people in secret, having declined the offer of a coffin and sepulture at our hands. A large body of Apaches had congregated to hear the talk, and they were evidently determined to have the best of it on this occasion. They had made up their minds to have the blood of the slayer, and had they suc ceeded would have attributed their triumph to fear on our part. Mr. Bartlett was quite as determined that American law only should have weight, and I was pre pared for a lively scene. On that day the Commissary's and Sutler's stores were closed, and every man of us stood ready for active duty at a moment's warning. The smoking process over, the Apaches were addressed as fol lows, the same rules being observed as on the former occasion. Commissioner. "I feel sad, as well as all the Ameri cans here, and sympathize with our Apache brothers for 68 LIFE AMOXG THE APACHES. the death of one of their braves. "We are all friends. The dead man was our friend, and we regret his loss. I know that he committed no offence; that he even did not provoke the attack upon him. But our Apache brethren must remember that it was not by the hand of an Amer ican he died. It was by that of a Mexican, though em ployed by the Commissioner. For this reason it is my duty to see justice done you, and the murderer pun ished. I am here in command of the party engaged in tracing the dividing line between the United States the country of the Americans and Mexico. I have fully explained this to you before, and you now understand it. Beyond this I have no powers. The great chief of the Americans lives far, very far, toward the rising sun. From him I received my orders, and those orders I must obey. I cannot interfere in punishing any man, whether an Indian, a Mexican, or an American. There is another great chief who lives at Santa Fe. He is the Governor of all New Mexico. This great chief administers the laws of the Americans. He alone can inflict punishment when a man has been found guilty. To this great chief I will send the murderer of our Apache brother. He will try him, and if found guilty, will have him punished according to American laws. This is all I can do. Such is the disposition I will make of this man. It is all I have a right to do." To my surprise, Ponce arose to reply; he said: "This is all very good. The Apaches know that the Americans are their friends. The Apaches believe what the Ameri cans say is true. They know that the Americans do not speak with two tongues. They know that you have never told them a lie. They know that you will do what you say. But the Apaches will not be satisfied to hear that the murderer has been punished in Santa Fe. They LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 69 want him punished here, at the Copper Mines, where the band of the dead brave may see him put to death where all the Apaches may see him put to death. (Here Ponce made the sign of suspending by the neck.) Then the Apaches will see and know that their American brothers do justice to them." Commissioner. "I will propose another plan to the Apaches. It is to keep the murderer in chains, as you now see him; to make him work, and give all he earns to the wife and family of your dead brave. This I will see paid in blankets, in cotton cloth, in corn, in money, or anything else the family may like. I will give them all that is now due to the man, and at the end of every month I will give the.m twenty dollars in goods or in money. When the cold season comes, these women and children will come in and receive their blankets and cloth to keep them warm, and corn to satisfy their hun ger." Ponce. "You speak well. Your promises are good. But money will not satisfy an Apache for the blood of a brave ! Thousands will not drown the grief of this poor woman for the loss of her son. Would money satisfy an American for the murder of his people ? Would money pay you, Senor Commissioner, for the loss of your child? No; money will not bury your grief. It will not bury ours. The mother of the dead brave demands the life of his murderer. Nothing else will satisfy her. She wants no money. She wants no goods. She wants no corn. Would money satisfy me (striking his breast) for the death of my son ? No ! I would demand the blood of the murderer. Then I would be satisfied. Then I would be willing to die myself. I would not wish to live and feel the grief which the loss of my son would cause me." Reply. "Your words are good. You speak with the 4* 70 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. heart of feeling. I feel as you do. All the Americans feel as you do. Our hearts are sad at your loss. We mourn with this poor woman. We will do all we can to assist her and her family. I know that neither money nor goods will pay for her loss. I do not want the Apaches, my brothers, so to consider it. What I propose is for the good of this family. My wish is, to make them com fortable. I desire to give them the aid of which they are deprived by the loss of their protector. If the prisoner's life is taken, your desire for revenge is satisfied. Law and justice are satisfied; but this poor woman gets nothing. She and her family remain poor. They have no one to labor for them. Will it not be better to provide for their wants?" A short interchange of opinions occurred at this period of the proceedings, and the mother of the murdered man was called on for her decision. Acting under the influ ence of the leading warriors, whose object is stated at the opening of this chapter, she vehemently demanded the blood of her son's slayer, and stated her determina tion to be satisfied with nothing else. In accordance with this decision Ponce resumed and said : 1 'If an Apache should take the life of an American, would you not make war on us and take many Apache lives ? " Eeply. "No; I would demand the arrest of the mur derer, and would be satisfied to have him punished as the Apaches punish those who commit murder. Did not a band of Apaches attack a small party of Americans, very recently, on the Janos road? Did they not kill one of them and wound three others with their arrows ? And did they not take from them all their property ? You all know this to be true, and I know it to be true. I passed near the spot where it took place, three days afterward. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 71 The Apaches did not even bury their victim. They left him lying by the wayside, food for the crows and the wolves. Why do not these Americans revenge them selves on you for this act? They are strong enough. They have many warriors, and in a few days can bring a thousand more here. But there would be no justice in that. The Americans believe this murder was com mitted by your bad men by cowards. The Apaches have bad men among them; but you who are now among us are our friends, and we will not demand redress of you. Yet, as I told you before, you must endeavor to find the men who killed our brother, and punish them. Our animals feed in your valleys. Some of your bad men might steal them, as they have already done; but the Americans would not make war on you for this. We hold you responsible, and shall call on you to find them and bring them back, as you have done. While the Apaches continue to do this, the Americans will be their friends and their brothers. But if the Apaches take our property and do not restore it, they can no longer be the friends of the Americans. War will then follow; thou sands of soldiers will take possession of your lands, your grazing valleys, and your watering places. They will destroy every Apache warrior they find, and take your women and children captives." This rather menacing speech, with the firmness and determination evinced, brought our copper colored and belligerent visitors to a proper sense of the case, and after considerable "pow-wow" among themselves, the mother of the deceased agreed to leave the punishment of the murderer to the determination of our own laws, and to receive as equivalent for his loss all the money due the prisoner, and twenty dollars a month, the amount of his wages, while we remained at the Copper Mines. 72 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. During the foregoing talk I learned the important fact, that coolness and quiet determination will almost always overawe and subdue an Indian, provided the right is on your side. But however much he may yield, one may make sure that he will seize the first favorable opportunity to "get even." Should such an opportunity never occur, it becomes his cherished object to wreak his vengeance on the next comer, entirely regardless of his antecedents. For this reason the utmost caution is always necessary; because, although one may feel wholly guiltless of act or intention against the savages, he is held strictly respon sible by them for the acts and intentions of his prede cessors. CHAPTER VII. Jornada del Mucrto. Socorro. Lieut. Campbell. Terrific Ride for Life. Splendid Horse. Narrow Escape. Caring for a Horse. Apache Visits. Treacherous Nature. SOME time after the events above recorded, it became necessary for me to visit the town of Socorro, in New Mexico, for the purpose of assisting in the purchase of sheep. It was niy most excellent fortune to possess a horse whose equal I have never seen. "With high cour age and almost fabulous powers of endurance; strong, swift and handsome, I had made him a special pet, and nobly did he answer my appeal when occasion demanded. At that time Fort Craig had no existence, and the space between Dona Ana and Socorro a distance of one hundred and twenty-five miles is a large desert, well supplied with fine grama grass in some portions, but ab solutely destitute of water or shade for ninety-six miles. This intervening strip of territory is known by the unat tractive appellation of the Jornada del Muerto, or the Dead Man's Journey. Why it ever received this title I never distinctly learned, but suppose it was on account of the very numerous massacres committed on it by the Apache Indians. On the east the road is fringed for about sixty miles by the Sierra Blanca, a noted strong hold of that people; and from its heights they are ena bled distinctly to perceive any party of travelers coming- over the wide and unsheltered expanse of the Jornada del Mnerto. As the plain affords no opportunity for ambush, 74 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. they come sweeping upon the unsuspecting immigrant in more than usual numbers, and if successful in their at tack, invariabty destroy all of -the party; for there is no possible chance of escape, and the Apaches never take any prisoners but women and young children, and they become captives for life. At Socorro was a small American garrison, consisting of about half a company of the Second Dragoons, com manded by Lieut. Reuben Campbell, an officer whose acquaintance I had made during the Mexican war, and for whom I entertained a sincere regard. I left Dona Ana about three o'clock A. M., and traveled leisurely until four in the afternoon, when I unsaddled my horse, staked him to a strong picket pin planted in a field of fine grass, and laid down under the lee side of a cactus to catch a modicum of shade. At twelve, mid night, I resumed my journey, and reached Socorro next day about eleven o'clock A. M., having traveled during the cool of the night at a much more rapid pace. Dur ing the trip I neither saw an Indian nor an Indian sign; and here let me add that the Apaches of the Jornada, or more properly the Mescalero Apaches, were at the time in a state of active hostility. Most pleasantly did I pass two days with Lieut. Camp bell, rehearsing scenes and incidents of the Mexican war, and each metaphorically "shouldering his crutch to show how fields were won." Having refreshed myself and rested my noble horse, I took leave of Campbell on the morning of the third day, at three o'clock, when we took the doch and dorrish with mutual wishes for each other's welfare. My trip up had been unaccompanied by any event of interest, and I sincerely hoped that my journey down would be equally tame and spiritless; but this was not to LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 75 be. I saved my noble beast all I could, frequently dis mounting and leading him by the bridle, so as to retain his strength and speed in case of necessity. In this way we jogged on until about three o'clock in the afternoon, by which time we had accomplished about fifty miles, leaving some seventy-five yet to go. The sun was in tensely oppressive, and glared like a shield of red-hot brass. A friendly bush, surrounded with fine grass, and standing about one hundred yards to the left of the hard and splendid natural road which runs through four-fifths of the Jornada, invited me to partake of its modest shade, and I turned my horse in that direction, but was sur prised at noticing a column of dust to my left, in the di rection of the Sierra Blanca, which had the appearance of being in violent motion, and coming my way. In stinctively I felt that it was caused by Apaches; and I took the precaution to tighten my horse's girths, see that the saddle was properly placed and re-cap my four six- shooters, two of which were in my belt, and two in my holsters. I also untied a Mexican serape, or blanket, which was lashed to the after part of my saddle, and doubling it, I passed it over my shoulders and tied it under my chin by a stout buckskin thong. By this time the character of the coming party was unmistakable, and they were evidently bent on cutting me off from the road. My gallant horse seemed to appreciate the condition of affairs almost as well as I, and bounded on like a bird. The pursuing party failed in their first attempt and en tered the road about three hundred } r ards in my rear. Perceiving that my horse was infinitely superior in speed and power, I drew rein to save him all that I could, and allowed the Indians to come within fifty yards. There were some forty of them, and none with fire-arms, but mainly supplied with lances, only five or six of the num- 76 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. ber carrying bows and arrows. These last named pro jectiles commenced to whistle near me; but I paid no heed, keeping steadily on my course, until one pene trated my blanket; but the effect was completely de stroyed by the fluttering of its heavy double folds, which were kept in a rattling motion by the speed at which we were going. Perceiving that the force of the arrow had been neutralized, I drew a heavy holster pistol, and wheeling half round in my saddle, pointed it at the sav ages. This caused them to fall back in some alarm, and I took advantage of that fact to redouble my speed for a mile or so, gaining some six hundred yards on my pur suers, when I again drew rein to save my horse. It required a long time for them to again recover shoot ing distance, but their yells and cries were perpetual. In this manner, alternately checking and speeding my horse, and ^presenting my pistol at the savages, we scoured over many miles of that infernal Jornada. Sev eral arrows were sticking in my blanket; one had grazed rny right arm, just bringing blood, and the other had touched my left thigh. I then became convinced that my horse was the main object of their pursuit. His value and unequaled qualities were well known to the Apaches, and they resolved to have him, if possible. Of course, my life would have been sacrificed, if they could only manage that little affair. I had bought the horse of Capt. A. Buford, First United States Dragoons, who assured me that his equal did not exist in the Territory. He had been offered a hundred mustangs for the horse by a Mescalero Apache, but refused, on the ground that he could take care of one animal with ease; but if he possessed a hundred, the Apaches would be likely to steal them at any moment while grazing. Near the foot of the Jornada, the road takes a bold LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 77 sweeping curve to the left, toward Dofia Ana, being in terrupted by a low but rugged series of small hills and deep ravines. About eight o'clock P. M. , the moon being bright and not a cloud visible, I dashed round the first hill, and was surprised to note that the Apaches had ap parently given up the chase, for I neither heard nor saw any more of them, although I was about four hundred yards ahead. Suddenly it flashed upon my mind that they might have some short cut-off, and had pursued it with the intention of heading me. For the first time I struck my rowels into the reeking flanks of my poor steed, and most gallantly did he respond to this last call. He fairly flew over the road. Hill after hill was passed with wonderful rapidity until nearly a quarter of an hour had elapsed, when I again heard my Apache friends, about eighty yards in my rear. No sooner did they per ceive that their design had been penetrated and frus trated, than they recommenced their yells with additional vigor. But their horses were blown, as well as mine. They had come at their best pace the whole way, while mine had been saved from time to time. If I had come fifty miles at a slow gait in the early day, they had come fifteen at dead speed before they reached to where our race began. In this manner we continued our career until I arrived within five miles of Dofia Ana, about eleven o'clock p. M. , when, feeling myself comparatively safe, I commenced emptying the cylinders of my heavy holster pistols among them. Their cries and yells were fearful at this time, but I did not cease firing until they had fallen back out of reach. The remainder of my journey was made without company, and I reached Dona Ana about twelve o'clock midnight, having made the distance of one hundred and twenty-five miles, on one horse, in the space of twenty- 78 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. one hours,, the last seventy miles being performed at a run. So soon as I arrived, I threw off my serape, which had quite a number of arrows sticking* in it, called my boy, , Jos 5, and rubbed my horse down dry with good, soft straw. This operation required about two hours. I then washed him all over with strong whisky and water, and again rubbed him dry. This was followed by taking off his shoes, and giving him about two quarts of whisky and water as a draught. His whole body and limbs were then swathed in blankets, a mess of cut hay, sprinkled with water and mixed with a couple of pounds of raw steak, cut into small pieces, was given him to eat, and a deep bed of clean dry straw prepared for .him to sink into. These duties kept me up until five o'clock A. M., - w r hen I refreshed my inner man with a wholesome whisky toddy, prepared by Buford, and sought repose, from which I did not awaken for all that day and the succeed ing night. On the second day after the above adventure, I visited my horse and found him in as fine condition as any one could reasonably expect. He was neither foun dered nor injured in any ostensible manner. On many a subsequent occasion he served me with equal zeal and capability, but never more under such exciting circum stances. Several efforts were afterwards made by the Apaches to get possession of that noble beast, but, I am proud and happy to add, invariably without success. At the Copper Mines he was saved to me by mere .accident. On a certain occasion, remembering that he had lost a shoe, I sent Jos 3 to bring him from the herd then graz~ ing about a mile distant, under the care of a guard. The order was immediately obeyed, and in half an hour after ward the whole herd was carried off by the Apaches. It may be entered up as an invariable rule, that the LIFE AMOXG THE APACHES. 79 visits of Apaclies to American camps are always for sin ister purposes. They have nothing to trade for: conse quently, it is not barter that brings them. They beg, but in no wise comparably with other Indian tribes; and scarcely expect to receive when they ask. Their keen eyes omit nothing. One's arms and equipments, the number of your party, their cohesion and precaution, their course of march, their system of defence in case of attack, and the amount of plunder to be obtained with the least possible risk, are all noted and judged. Wher ever their observations can be made from neighboring heights with a chance of successful ambush, the Apache never show T s himself, nor gives any sign of his presence. Like the ground shark, one never knows he is there un til one feels his bite. In nature and disposition, in hab~ its, laws, manners and customs, in religion and ceremo nies, in tribal and family organization, in language and signs, in war and in peace, he is totally different from all other Indians of the North American continent; and these facts will be set forth in future chapters, for the consideration of those who may peruse this work. CHAPTER VIII. Gold Mines. Apache Raid. Our Mules Stolen. Unsuccessful Scout. Another Apache Raid. Fight with Delgadito's Band. Recovery of Stolen Cattle. Delgadito Wounded. His Death. Traits of Apache Character. Their Spartan Views. Apache Idea of American Wisdom. Adventure of Mr. Diaz with Cuchillo Negro. Abandon the Copper Mines. Sonora. Santa Cruz. Bacuachi. Arispe. Ures. Hermosillo. Guaymas. Return. Santa Rita. The Pimos and Maricopas. Their Tradition. Their Personal Appearance. Strange Relations Between the Two Tribes. Lucubrations on Indian Character. Our Indian Policy Criticised. THE main object of the author is to relate such inci dents as will give his readers an insight into Indian char acter; but in each case the relation will be of facts occur ring within his own personal experience. It is too much the habit to give details received from hearsay evidence, from which the writer draws his conclusions and offers them to his readers as the results of personal investiga tion and knowledge. This fault, for I so consider it, will be avoided in the present work, and nothing de scribed which was not actually witnessed or experienced by the author, who leaves his readers to form their own conclusions. After the shooting of the Apache at the Copper Mines by Jesus Lopez, matters resumed a pacific appearance for some weeks; but the calm was only on the surface. The Apache mind had been deeply exercised by the re covery of Inez and the two boys, and by our invasion and long retention of their favorite haunt. Gold mines had been struck a few miles from the post, and this fact threatened the existence of a permanent colony of Anier- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 81 leans, which also served to aggravate the natural hatred and malevolence of the savages. This last mentioned fear proved well grounded, for at this day there ,are over three hundred Americans and others working those mines, and a considerable village has sprung up in their imme diate vicinity. Mangas Colorado, Ponce, Delgadito, Cuchillo Negro, Coletto Amarillo, and other prominent Apaches, have, since then, all been sent to their long account hy the ri fles of Californiaii soldiers and American citizens, but not without the loss of many innDcent lives on our part, or the perpetration of atrocities on the part of the Apaches which make the blood curdle at the bare recital. These developments will form portions of succeeding chapters. Toward the latter end of July, a number of mules for which Col. Craig was responsible, could not be found, although all the surrounding country, to the extent of thirty miles, was strictly searched. That gallant officer and accomplished gentleman invited me to his quarters, and asked my opinion on the subject. Without hesita tion, I informed him that I thought the Apaches had stolen them, either for the hope of reward for bringing them back (as the Commissioner had invariably bestowed gifts on those of the tribe who brought in strayed ani mals, or those supposed to have strayed) or that they had made the initiative of a war campaign. After two or three hours of conversation, the Colonel fell into my idea, and determined to go and search for them himself. Taking thirty soldiers, he visited the Apache camp of Delgadito, on the Mimbres river. The Indians were much excited, and disclaimed any participation in the robbery, or any knowledge of the missing animals; but promised to hunt them up and restore them to that officer, if found. Eight days afterward they kept their 82 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. promise, in a truly Apache manner, by making another descent upon the Colonel's herd of mules, and relieving him of the necessity to guard twenty-five more of those animals, and some fine horses. Having nothing but infantry, Col. Craig felt himself unable to maintain an ac tive campaign against these bold and well-mounted sav ages, and consequently invoked the aid of Capt. Buford's company of dragoons, from Doiia Ana. Soon after the arrival of that officer, another batch of animals disap peared in the same mysterious manner, and a joint jscout, composed of the dragoons and mounted infantry, started off to recover the lost animals, or punish the robbers, if possible. This raid proved wholly ineffective, neither animals being recovered, nor Indians punished; but dur ing the absence of the force, intelligence was brought that the Apaches had attacked the mining camp, about three or four miles down the canon, and were driving off the cattle. About twenty of the Commission, headed by Lieut. A. W. Whipple, mounted their horses and gave immediate pursuit. The Indians were overhauled in a thick forest, and one party, numbering about fifty war riors, stood to give us battle, while a detachment hurried on with the cattle. The Indians concealed themselves behind large pine trees, and retreated as fast as possible, but still showing front. Our party dismounted, and, being joined by Mr. Hay, the head miner, with four of his associates, we left our horses in care of eight men, and took to the trees, keeping up a lively fire from be hind their friendly shelter. Here, for the first time, all doubt as to the identity of the robbers was set at rest, for they were headed by Del- gadito, who kept at a safe distance and poured out tor rents of the vilest abuse upon the Americans. This same scoundrel had slSpt in my tent only two nights before, LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 83 when I gave him a good shirt and a serviceable pair of shoes. The Government had furnished the Commission with several styles of newly-patented arms, and among these were some Wesson's rifles, which could throw their balls with fair accuracy a distance of four hundred yards at that period a very remarkable distance. One of these rifles I had ordered to be fitted with new and fine sights, and at three hundred and fifty yards a good marksman could hit the size of his hat eight times out of ten. Among our party was Wells, the Commissioner's car riage driver an excellent, brave and cool man, and a crack shot. I pointed Delgadito out to W'ells, and hand ing him my rifle, told him to approach as nearly as pos sible, take good aim and bring the rascal down. Wells glided from tree to tree with the utmost caution and rapidity, until he got within two hundred and sixty or seventy yards of Delgadito, who, at that moment, was slapping his buttocks and defying us with the most op probrious language. While in the act of exhibiting his posteriors a favorite taunt among the Apaches he un covered them to Wells, who took deliberate aim and fired. This mark of attention was received by Delgadito with an unearthly yell and a series of dances and capers that would put a maitre de ballet to the blush. The Apache leader was recalled to full consciousness of his exposed position by the whizzing of three or four balls in close proximity to his upper end, when he ceased his saltatory exercises and rushed frantically through a thick copse, followed by his band. We started back for our horses and having- remounted, again pressed forward in pursuit. In fifteen minutes we had passed the woods and opened upon the plain, over which the Apaches were scouring for life. The pursuit lasted for thirty miles, 84 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. and just at sundown we came once more upon the cattle, when the party in charge abandoned them and sought safety in flight with their beaten companions. Perceiv ing that further pursuit would be useless, we contented ourselves by bringing back Mr. Hay's herd. I afterward learned that the ball from Wells' rifle gouged a neat streak across that portion of Delgadito's person denom inated in school parlance as the "'seat of honor." His riding and general activity were spoiled for several weeks. This celebrated Apache was subsequently killed by a Mexican, whom he was endeavoring to dupe and destroy. They were fording the Mimbres river on foot, and upon reaching the eastern bank, Delgadito caught hold of the projecting branch of a tree to assist himself, when the Mexican took advantage of his momentary neglect, and plunged his knife through the Indian's heart- from be hind. It is an actual fact that the dead savage was found, the next day, still clinging to the branch. This event took place two years after we had left the country. I never met with Delgadito after the affair in the woods; but had resolved to pistol him the very first time we got close enough to make my shot sure. In every case the Copper Mine Apaches had been treated with the greatest kindness and hospitality by the whole Commission. They had received very many and valuable presents. For months they had the unrestricted freedom of our camp. All causes of dispute had been settled to their own satisfaction; nothing had occurred for weeks to disturb the existing harmony. Only two days before the affair above described, Delgadito and over a hundred warriors had been in the Copper Mines, and emphatically disavowed any participation in or knowl edge of the wholesale robberies which had been commit ted on our people. Mr. Bartlett and Dr. Webb had LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 85 persisted in their theory, that "kind treatment, a rigid adherance to what is right, and a prompt and invariable fulfillment of all promises, would secure the friendship of the Apaches;" but, although this kind of treatment had been exactly carried out by Mr. Bartlett and his Com mission, the Apaches took occasion to manifest their ap preciation and friendship by robbing over three hundred head of our finest mules and horses, which had been resting and growing fat and strong for future use. They never served us again. There are cases where an indi vidual Apache will conceive a personal regard for a par ticular man, and will do him almost any act of kindness in his power, but this is far, very far, from being a gen eral rule. From earliest infancy they are instructed to regard every other race as natural enemies. Their sus picions and savage distrust are aroused and cultivated before they ever come in contact with other people. An Apache child of three years will run and yell with fear and hate from a white man. Apache mothers hush their children by naming an American. To rob or kill a Mex ican, is considered a most honorable achievement; but to commit successful outrage upon an American, entitles the perpetrator to the highest consideration. Dexterity in stealing is a virtue of no mean character. The most adroit thief is precisely the man who is best capable of maintaining his wives in plenty and bedecking them ia meretricious finery, of which they are inordinately fond. The Apache woman who is saddled with the least work and the most ornaments, is the envied of her sex. For this reason, the young girls prefer to become the fifth, sixth, or seventh wife of a noted robber, rather than the single spouse of a less adroit thief. In the first case her labors are divided by her associate wives, and are, there fore, measurably lessened, while her chances for obtain- 5 86 LIFE AMONO THE APACHES. ing gew-gaws are quite as good or better. They un questionably prefer polygamy, as it exists. A really brave man does not rank as high as a really clever, thievish poltroon. His gallantry is admired, and in times of danger all flock around him for protection; but at other periods the young squaws give him the cold shoulder, and he is regarded as little better than a fool who will run into danger, but does not know how to steal, or enrich himself at the expense of others. " He is a very brave warrior/' say they, " a man who will fight and shed his blood in our defense; but he is little better than an ass, because he is always poor and don't know how to steal and not be caught." I am not too sure that some thing of this characteristic does not obtain among people who profess to rank much higher than the Apaches in the scale of mankind. It might be as well, perhaps, to pull the mote out of our own eyes before we attempt to extract the beam from those of our savage brethren. Nevertheless, the Apache character is not lovely. In point of natural shrewdness, quick perception and keen animal instinct they are unequaled by any other people. They know what is just and proper, because in all their talks they urge justice and propriety, and profess to be guided by those virtues; but all their acts belie their words. Deceit is regarded among them with the same admiration we bestow upon one of the fine arts. To lull the suspicions of an enemy and to them all other people are enemies and then take advantage of his credence, is regarded as a splendid stroke of policy. To rob and not be robbed; to kill and not be killed; to take captive and not be captured, form the sum of an Apache's educa tion and ambition, and he who can perform these acts with the greatest success is the greatest man in the tribe. To be a prominent Apache is to be a prominent scoundrel. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 87 But the reader will have plenty of opportunities to judge for himself, as the succeeding pages will unfold incidents enough from which to form a criterion. They are far from cowardly, but they are exceedingly prudent. Twenty Apaches will not attack four well armed and determined men, if they keep constantly on their guard and pre pared for action. In no case will they incur the risk of losing life, unless the plunder.be most enticing and their numbers overpowering, and even then they will track a small party for days, waiting an opportunity to establish a secure ambush or effect a surprise. A celebrated war rior once told me: " You Americans are fools, for when ever you hear a gun fire you run straight to the spot; but we Apaches get away, and by and by steal round and discover the cause." I have before stated that individual Apaches will some times conceive a regard for particular persons not of their tribe, and an incident illustrative of this fact occurred to Lieut. Diaz of the Mexican Commission. Mr. Diaz had been ordered to occupy a station on the top of a certain prominent height, and took with him a party of ten men. His camp was only about four miles from the camp of Gen. Garcia Conde; but getting out of provisions he left the mountain, accompanied by one man, for the pur pose of ordering another supply. His course led him over a perfectly smooth plain for the distance of two | miles. Not a tree, nor a bush, nor a rock was visible, but the grass was thick and about a foot high. Mr. Diaz and his man walked side by side, each with a six-shooter in his hand, for the Apaches were then hostile. About | the middle of the plain Mr. Diaz felt his right wrist seized and his left arm pinioned, while his pistol was taken from his grasp, and he found himself in the power of Cuchillo Negro and a dozen other savages. His at- 88 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. tendant was .also seized and a prisoner. Cuchillo Negro looked at him for a moment, with a most gratified ex pression on his savage face, and then said: " My friend, you see that you cannot escape us. But I like you and will do you no harm. You must cease from staying on that hill. I want it; it belongs to me. You have intruded into my country; but you yourself I like. I will keep these pistols; but send for the rest of your men on the hill and take them away. For your sake we will not kill them this time." Poor Lieut. Diaz had not a word to reply except to promise that the Indian's request would be granted in re turn for his generosity. It seems that Cuchillo Negro had observed the movement of Mr. Diaz, and with his band had buried himself under the grass, waiting the auspicious moment when Mr. Diaz should pass him on the road, when suddenly and noiselessly rising the sav ages grasped the unsuspecting Mexicans. I will here add, that Mr. Diaz was the officer charged to blow up the fortress of Chapultepec, should it fall into the hands of the Americans; but when the time came his heart failed him* and he was captured pistol in hand, as if about to fire the magazine. A few weeks after the incidents above described, the Commission abandoned the Copper Mines, in order to prosecute their labors to completion, and this abandon ment was always regarded by the Apaches as the legiti mate result of their active hostility. This fact came to my knowledge twelve years subsequent to the period of our removal, at which time it was again my province to renew my acquaintance with Mangas Colorado, then the only one living of the chiefs we had met at the Copper Mines. Coletto Amarillo, Ponce and his son, were killed in action by California!! soldiers, and it was the fate of Mangas to die on the point of an American bayonet. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 89 After a long travel through Sonora, visiting Santa Cruz, Bacuachi, Babispe, Tumacarcori, Imurez, Arispe, Ures, Hermosillo, Guaymas, and several other towns, Mr. Bartlett took passage by sea from Guaymas, leaving Dr. Webb, Mr. Thurber, Mr. Pratt and his son, myself and five others, making a party of ten, to reach Califor nia overland, and join him at San Diego. This was a very small party to travel through the Apache strong holds, especially at a time when those savages were at open war with us; but we were all splendidly armed, ex cept Dr. Webb, who could never be persuaded to carry anything but a small five-inch five-shooter and a knife and we were also tolerably experienced in the Apache style of warfare, and the nature of the country tu be traversed. The magnificent Santa Eita, ten thousand feet high, with its majestic head wreathed in snow, Tu- bac, San Xavier del Bac and Tucson were successively reached and passed. The great desert of ninety miles without water I speak of eighteen years ago, in 1850 between Tucson and the Gila river, was crossed safely, but not without much suffering; and we finally reached the Pimo villages, where we met Lieut. Whipple and party. The Pimos have ever been most friendly to Americans, and I have yet to learn of a single instance in which they ever harmed a white man. These Indians are not nomads- Their villages have remained in the same localities for hundreds of years. As their country affords no game, and they are by no means a warlike tribe, they maintain themselves in comfort and abundance by tilling the ground, and limit their warlike propensities to punishing the raids made upon them by other tribes. These ^imos profess to have originally come from the far south. Ac cording to their tradition, their forefathers were driven 90 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. - from tlieir native land many centuries ago, and sought an asylum by coming northward. They profess to have crossed through Sonora, and- finally settled on the Gila, about twenty miles east of the eastern limit of the Great Gila Bend, where that river makes a detour to the north of nearly ninety miles, and, after sweeping round the base of a range of mountains, resumes its original course westward. Here they were visited by the Jesuit mis sionaries, who taught them how to till the ground, and supplied them with many valuable seeds, and also in structed them in the art of preparing and weaving cot ton. A Pimo cotton blanket will last for years, and is really a very handsome and creditable affair. The men never cut their hair, but wear it in massive plaits and folds, which frequently descend to the calves of their legs. The front hair is cut even with the eyebrows. The women wear short hair, and are not permitted to have it more than eight or nine inches in length. They are a robust and well-formed race, and not at all revengeful, but exceedingly superstitious far more so than any other tribe I ever met. They are hospitable, chatty, and exceedingly proud of the purity of their blood. Living in the closest amity with them are the Maricopa Indians, who, like the Pimos, claim to be direct descend ants from Moctezuma, but differ from them essentially in their language, laws, habits, manners and religious cer emonies. The Maricopa tradition, as given me by Juan Jose, a chief of some importance in former times, and subsequently confirmed by Juan Chivari, the present head chief of the tribe, is to the following effect. About a hundred years ago the Yumas, Cocopahs and Mariqppas composed one tribe, known as the Coco-Marl icopa tribe. They occupied the country about the head of the Gulf of California, and for some distance up the LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 91 Colorado river. At that time a dispute occurred, and what is now known as the Cocopah tribe split off, and the secessionists were permitted to go in peace. This pacific policy soon afterward induced the party, now known as Maricopas, to secede also; but this defection incurred the severe displeasure and hostility of the re mainder, who now .form the Yuma tribe. Many san guinary conflicts ensued, when the Yumas succeeded in obtaining the aid of the Cocopahs, and, together, they gradually forced the Maricopas up the Colorado, until the Gila was reached. Knowing that the country to the north was occupied by the Amojaves, a large and warlike tribe, the retreating Maricopas turned their steps east ward, and folloAved the windings of the Gila river, pur sued by their relentless enemies, until they reached the Great Gila Bend. Their spies were sent across this des ert and returned with the intelligence that they had met a tribe living in well constructed and comfortable houses, cultivating the land, well clothed, numerous, and appa rently happy. A council was called and it was agreed to send an embassy to the Pimos, to negotiate a defensive and offensive alliance, and with the request that the Pimos would parcel out to them a suitable amount of land for their occupation. After much delay, and with true Indian circumspection, it was agreed that the Mari copas should inhabit certain lands of the Pimos; but it was made a sine qua non that the new-comers must for ever renounce their warlike and hunting propensities, and dedicate themselves to tillage for, said the Pimos, we have no hunting grounds; we do not wish to incur the vengeance of the Tontos, the Chimehuevis, the Apaches, and others, by making useless raids against them; they have nothing to lose, and' we have, and you must confine yourselves solely to revenging any warlike 92 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. incursions made either upon us or upon yourselves. You are free to worship after your own manner, and govern yourselves according to your own laws; but you must be ready at all times to furnish a proportionate number of warriors to protect the general weal, and, in the event of taking any booty, there shall be a fair divi sion made by a council of sagamores, composed of equal numbers from each tribe, and their decision must be final. These equitable and generous terms were accepted by the Maricopas, who immediately occupied a portion of Pimo territory, and imitated them in the construction of their dwellings and the cultivation of the land, being supplied with seed by the Pimos. In this manner the two tribes have continued together for one hundred years; yet, as an instance of the pertinacity with which an Indian will cling to his own particular tribe and cus toms, although many of them have intermarried, and their villages are never more than two miles apart, and in some cases not more than four hundred yards, to this day they cannot converse with each other unless through an interpreter. Their laws, religion, manners, ceremonies and language, remain quite as distinct as on the day they sought the Pimo alliance. Here we find no difference of color or diversity of pursuit. There is no clashing element, no cause for discordant controversy, or contention. They are and have been the warmest of friends for the period stated, have frequently intermar ried, are bound together by one common sympathy and one common cause, have the same enemies to contend against and the same evils to deplore the same blessings to enjoy; yet they are no closer together now than they were one hundred years ago. Ought not these indisputa ble facts to furnish us a lesson in Indian character? LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 93 Must we forever blind our eyes to such teachings of expe rience and fact, and indulge in the pleasing hypothesis that we can effect radical changes in their political and social economy ? Enthusiasts will point to a few individ ual exceptions, who have, as it were, got rid of their In dian nature and elevated themselves to a higher sphere in the mental, social and political scales; but these ex ceptions are very few, and only serve to establish the rule that the leopard cannot change his spots, nor an Ethiopian his skin. The Cherokees, Choctaws and Chickasaws, are pointed out as triumphal examples of what the white man's instructions and precepts will do for the Indian races. But in what essential particulars have they demonstrated this wonderful improvement ? It is true that many of them know how to read, write and compute; that they assume, to some extent, the vestments of the whites; that they have learned how to construct a beiter class of houses, and have improved their physical condition in other respects; but is this true of the major- itv? Have they not adopted, to the fullest extent, all the vices of the whites, while acquiring some of their minor virtues ? If left to themselves, would they con tinue to advance and progress in wisdom and virtue, or would they retrograde into barbarism? Are not such changes and improvements as have taken place among them more attributable to the large admixture of white blood visible in these tribes, than to any other cause ? How many of pure Indian blood are now to be found among them ? Are not those people rapidly dwindling away, and will they not soon be among the things that were ? Have their numbers increased, or have they be come strong ? Do they love us with any deeper affection, or do they show gratitude for their civilization ? But, says the Christian philanthropist, it is our duty to 5* 94 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. continue even unto the end; to faint not by the way, nor become lukewarm. These people are God's children, as well as yourself. They are possessed of immortal souls, and if your lot has been cast, through the mercy of Prov idence, in a more elevated and useful condition of life, you should not contemn those who have been denied these benefits. The Almighty has created them for the express purpose of exercising your philanthropy, your brotherly love, and all your better and. nobler qualities. Take the red man by the hand as you have done to his negro brother, and guide him gently, kindly toward a better state in this world and the hope of salvation here after. I admit that these are very persuasive and forcible arguments; but, reverend sir, the red man absolutely re fuses to come. He disdains to take my hand; he flouts my offered sympathy, and feels indignant at my pre sumption in proffering him my aid to improve his condi tion. He conceives himself not only my equal, but de cidedly my superior. He desires only to be let alone. His forefathers lived well enough without our officious services, and he intends to do likewise. He is the man of the woods, the plains, the mountains, and looks upon us as the men of the towns and the cities. For no pos sible consideration would he change places or accept our domiciliary style of life, and without such domestication all our efforts are vain and idle. With calm and unruf fled dignity he listens to all you say, and with uncon cealed dislike he makes it a point to remember nothing he has heard, or, if remembering, to treasure it up as something to be avoided. Your counsels are considered as baits and traps, and your desire to domiciliate him as an effort to bring him under your control. You are and must ever remain, to him, an object of suspicion and LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 95 distrust. You are understood to be his natural enemy, and all his faculties are awakened against your advances. Treasuring up his own vengeful purposes for months and years, he imputes to you the same, or kindred intention of doing him ultimate harm. No effort, no kindness on your part, can induce him to disabuse his mind of this idea, because he is not capable of such magnanimity, and regards it as the finest stroke of duplicity. Trained to treachery, he is ever on his guard against it in others. Even members of his own tribe are not trusted implicitly. When you talk to him of a Creator, he replies that he admits that fact; and when you endeavor to explain the attributes of the Most High, he tells you of the necessity to propitiate the devil. Any attempt to make him com prehend the Trinity is laughed to scorn, and he hesitates not to tell you that you lie, simply because it is beyond his comprehension. He admires and envies our power to read, write and calculate, and would fain be master of those accomplishments; but ask him to send his children to school, in order that they might learn to do likewise, and straightway he regards you as one wishing to con trol and bewitch the beloved offspring. He is willing to obtain information by oral means, but scouts the idea of learning it by studious process, which he regards as a species of slavery, and detests the control exercised by the teacher over his free born, wild, and unfettered children. While he frankly admits that you are better clothed, better fed, and better conditioned in all respects than he is, he as frankly and persistently refuses all overtures and invitations to adopt your style of life. He is as dogmatically convinced of his superiority as you are of yours, and no effort of rhetoric or argument can bring him to a different opinion. Show him the wonders of magnetism, or a microscope, or explain to him the mech anism of a watch, or direct his admiring gaze through 96 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. a telescope, and lie will express unfeigned delight, but will, at the same time, regard you with additional dis trust and suspicion. In fine, all your efforts are treated as the advances of an invidious enemy, and no expendi ture of time or industry has ever been successful in this field of operation. How can we cultivate and improve human beings who resolutely refuse cultivation and im provement, and brand all our efforts as so many snares laid for their subjection ? But it is useless to prolong a discussion of this subject; experientia docet, and experi ence has shown the futility of all attempts to cultivate, civilize and christianize the North American savage. The deplorable condition of the Californian Indians, after years upon years of Jesuit teachings, and the foun dation of numerous missions, surrounded with large and pacific Indian populations, only offers another proof that the savage tribes of this continent are not susceptible of permanent and radical improvement. Instead of being bettered, civilized and christianized, they have contracted all the worst features of the white race and retained all the more despicable characteristics of their own, while the native dignity, courage and primitive virtues of the Indian have been completely annihilated. In all the world there is no more despicable people than the indig enous tribes of California, which have been, for years, under the sway and tuition of the Jesuit fathers, who piously thought they were doing God good service. In all the attributes of manhood, in everything which digni fies uncivilized human nature, the untamed tribes are infinitely their superiors. Superstition, cowardice, filth, sloth, drunkenness, moral depravity, and the most re volting licentiousness have replaced the sterner and more simple qualities of the wild Indian tribes. In the desire to do them good, we have done them the most harm. In the hope of excising their savage defects, we have in- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 97 oculated them with, the most terrific vices. This is a sad picture, but it cannot be denied. What was the result of bringing leading chiefs, like Black Hawk, Keokuk, Irritaba and Juan. Chivari from their native wilds to behold and take lessons from the wealth, power, numbers and general superiority of our people ? In each case those once renowned warriors lost their whole influence. They w r ere regarded with suspicion and dislike by their own tribes. They were suspected of being bewitched. Their tales of the wondrous things they saw and heard were treated with scorn and unbelief, and, in some instances, such as in that of Irritaba and Juan Chivari, they barely escaped death at the hands of their former followers. The North American savage gazes with ill-suppressed admiration upon our palatial buildings, our thronged streets, our splendid stores, our vast and complicated mechanical engineering, our big guns and great ships; but his teaching ends there. While wondering at these things, he pants for his own unbounded plains and dense forests. He is not animated to attempt any change in his own method of life. He has no idea of toiling throughout existence that his children's children, to the tenth or twentieth generation, may possess capabilities and advantages like those enjoyed by the white man. His ambition is not at all excited, and he philosophically concludes that each race has its appointed duties, and is engaged in its fulfillment. Indians who have been re moved from their native scenes at an early age, and re ceived the best education attainable in our seminaries of learning, have almost invariably returned to their wastes, and proved the most formidable enemies of those who congratulated themselves on having rescued them as " brands from the burning." CHAPTER IX. Pimo Superstition. Eclipse of the Moon. Terrible Excitement. Dangerous Predicament. Lieut. Whipple's Coolness. Satisfactory Result. Pimos and Maricopas. Their Traditions. Religions and Modes of Interment. Dr. David Wooster. Arrival of Gen. Oonde. Death of Antonio. Horrible and Revolting Ceremonies. The Grila Bend. Down the Gila. The Mari- copa Refugees. Important News. The Colorado River. John Gallantin and his Party. AMONG- the most superstitious of all our Indian races, the Pimos take precedence. They entertain an unfalter ing belief in witchcraft, sorcery, ghosts, the direct influ ence of the evil one, and the absolute necessity of pro pitiating the "gentleman in black." It is not, by any means, difficult to disturb their serenity and set them al most wild, by the exercise of the most simple processes known to us. I have often fancied to myself their un bounded wonderment and fear at a skillful exhibition of the magic lantern, or the more scientific feats of chemis try such as converting fluids into solids, and vice versa but so far none of these effects have been shown them. After joining the party under Lieut. Whipple, that superior officer and thorough gentleman, invited me to accompany him one beautiful night to assist in observing an eclipse of the moon, w T hich was to take place about ten o'clock. The opportunity to make observations was too valuable to be lost, and as Mr. Wheaton was ill, the invitation to fill his place was kindly tendered to the writer. The large telescope and other important instru ments were carried by two men of Whipple's party, and LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 99 we proceeded until the highest hillock in the neighbor hood was surmounted. The Piinos and Maricopas soon learned that the white men were abroad with sundry curious looking weapons, and surrounded us by hundreds; but as we knew them to be thoroughly peaceful, and even generous, no notice was taken of their presence. The telescope was placed in position, and on being asked by a Pimo what it was, I carelessly replied that it was a terrific cannon, the shot of which would reach to the moon. Little did we think how quickly this answer would place us in imminent jeopardy. The round, full moon was sailing across the heavens in refulgent splen dor. Not a cloud could be seen; the air was calm and tranquil; the night was pleasantly warm, and everything promised a satisfactory observation. By and by, the eclipse was about to commence. Mr. "Whipple stationed himself at the telescope, and the rest of us stood ready to obey his directions. Every one was attentive, and wholly bent on making the occasion a success. At length the observation commenced. It was watched by the Indians, who kept their eyes alternately fixed on the moon and on Mr. Whipple; and as 'the disc of that lu minary began to grow less and less, and darker and darker, the Chief, Culo Azul, said to me: "What are you doing?'* Not apprehending any difficulty, and relying on their well known and often tried amity, I replied: " We are shooting and killing the moon." This was translated to the surrounding multitude, and immediately followed by the most dreadful yells I ever heard. A rush was made toward us, and weapons brandished with fearful and vengeful violence. Our party became alarmed, and prepared to sell our lives as dearly as possible; but the thought of our unsuspecting 100 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. comrades in the camp compelled us to act with, caution. The first object of the savages was evidently to destroy the weapon which they believed to be killing the moon; but its loss would have been irreparable, and their ven geance would not have stopped there. " What are we to do without the moon?" inquired the Chief. " How are we to note time ? How shall we know when to plant and when to reap ? How can we pass all our nights in darkness, and be incapacitated from pre venting Apache raids? What have we done to you, that you should do this thing to us ? " To these questions, asked with vehemence and rapid ity, I replied, " Wait until I consult my superior/' and immediately acquainted Mr. Whipple with all the facts. That officer had left the telescope in alarm; but imme diately replaced himself with the greatest sang-froid, and, in an undertone, said: ' ' Tell them that, if they will keep quiet and promise not to make any hostile movement, we will restore the moon again, as full and as bright as ever." His coolness, courage, and undisturbed self-possession excited my highest admiration, and I immediately trans lated his words to Culo Azul, who again made them known to his people. Under the direction of Mr. Whip- pie, I added: " We can hit the moon, as you may see for yourselves," at this time that luminary was obscured one-half by the earth's shadow "and it is also in our power to re store it to health and strength; but if you harm us or in jure our instruments, then the moon must remain dead, and can never be restored. We have only the kindliest feelings toward the Pimos and Maricopas, and we only wished to destroy the moon in order to prevent its light from guiding the Apaches and Yumas to your villages. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 101 But as our brethren have signified their dislike to the proceeding, we will restore the moon to its original splendor. If in a little while it does not reappear, our Pimo and Maricopa friends may take their vengeance and destroy our instruments. But they must remember that we alone are the medicine men; our brethren in the camp are as innocent as you, and should not be disturbed or held accountable in any event." This promise restored some degree of tranquility, and they gave us their word not to injure or interfere with our unsuspecting comrades. It has often occurred to me what a dreadful fate would have been ours if a sudden storm had arisen at that pe riod, and prevented the moon from being seen again im mediately after the eclipse. But the heavens were spe cially bright and cloudless, and not the slightest incident occurred to dash our courage. In the course of time the observation reached its fullest extent, and the anxiety of our Indian friends became intense. Yells and meanings rent the still night air, maledictions and curses were lav ished upon us, weapons were drawn, and every indica tion given of speedy dismissal from this vale of tears; but the grand old chief, who seemed to have absolute control of his people, stood between us and harm, and quietly awaited the issue. By and by the moon began to exhibit her brilliant shield once more. Its silver disc grew larger and larger. Gradually, but surely, it sailed from behind the earth's shadow and assumed its pristine proportions, until she was again unveiled in full majesty. To describe the jo}^, the amazement and the homage of the savages is quite impossible. We were lifted up on their arms, patted on our backs, embraced, and dignified to their utmost extent. All this time Mr. Whipple had been quietly taking his observations and writing them in 102 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. his book. At no period did lie appear ruffled or con cerned. His equanimity won respect, and his influence with the Pimos became all powerful. In a subsequent chapter will be found detailed another and no less curi ous incident among those Indians. The Pimos and Maricopas both pretend to trace their descent from Moctezuma, whoever that renowned gentle man may be, but they have entirely different ideas about the matter. The Pimos believe Moctezuma to have been a god, who resided on earth for a time, and became the founder of their race, but was treacherously and basely murdered. Before yielding up the ghost, he threatened his slayers with future punishment, foretold the scatter ing of the various tribes he had created and organized, and promised to come again and assume control of their affairs when all his children should be reunited under his rule. The Pimos invariably resort to the ceremony of crema tion when any of their tribe dies. The body is placed upon a funeral pyre and rapidly consumed. No effort is made to collect the ashes of the dead, but all his friends and relatives take a portion, and, mixing them with the dissolved gum of the mesquit tree (which is a species of the acacia, and yields a concrete juice similar to gum arabic), they daub their faces with the odious compound, and permit it to remain until it is worn away. The chastity of their women is proverbial, but this is probably more the result of the fear of detection than from any natural virtue. Among themselves loose wo men are tolerated, but the Pimo girl who may be caught in carnal intercourse with any other than a Pimo man, runs nine chances out of ten to be stoned to death. If a white man be a trader among them, and has been there for a long time, and has acquired something of their. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 103 language , lie is more or less considered entitled to the privileges of the tribe; but, even then, disclosure of con cubinage is attended with imminent danger to the guilty female. The women of this tribe are particularly fine looking, possessing elegant forms, nicely shaped and well tapered limbs, brilliant and perfect white teeth, small hands, and the easy carriage of the unfettered Indian girl who never saw a pair of corsets, nor inclosed her form in the net-work of crinoline. The men are rugged and tolerably well made, but in nowise remarkable for size nor physical strength. Their powers of endurance are about on a par with most other Indian races, but bear no comparison with those of the Apaches. They are al most all bow-legged, with long trunks and arms, deep chested, narrow shouldered and big headed. Their noses are natter, wider and more fleshy than those of other tribes, while their feet, in both sexes, are unusually large and splayed. Prior to receiving muskets and ammu nition from the American Government a favor granted them through the wise intercession of Gen. James H. Caiieton their weapons consisted of a bow and arrow, and a lance or knife. Their arrows differ from those of all the Apache tribes in having only two feathers instead of three, and in being much longer, with the single ex ception of the Coyoteros, who use very long arrows of reed, finished out with some hard wood, and an iron or flint head, but invariably with three feathers at the op posite end. The Maricopas invariably bury their dead, and mock the ceremony of cremation. They, like the Pimos, and most other Indian tribes, believe in the existence of two gods, who divide the universe between them. One of the divinities is the author of all good, the other the father of all evil. The good god is deemed a quiet and 104 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. inactive spirit, who takes no decisive part in the affairs of mankind, but relies more upon their desire to escape the evils brought upon them by the bad spirit than upon any direct efforts of his own. He contents himself with the knowledge that after mankind has been sufficiently tormented by his great adversary, they will seek him as a source of refuge. On the other hand, they invest the evil spirit with powers of unequaled and inconceivable activity. He is everywhere at once, and takes the lead in all schemes and pursuits, with the view of converting them to his ultimate use. The first duty of the Indian, exposed as he is to the influences of these two spirits, is to propitiate the most active of the two, and the one which will control his every day avocations. His next object is to approach the good spirit and ask his pardon for having made terms with his one great enemy. This method is something in the style of Louis XI's prayers, but is really in use among these Indians. Their women are not noted for chastity, but are very cautious against detection, which is severely punished, although not to the extent that ob tains among the Pimos. They are quite as good looking as their neighbors, and the men generally are credited with a superior reputation as warriors. Their dress, arms, accoutrements, and general style of person are so nearly similar as not to arrest the attention of travelers; but their religion, language, laws and customs are wholly different. The Maricopas seem to have more general recklessness and cordiality of manner than the Pimos, who are constrained and stiff in their intercourse with strangers. The Pimo believes in a future state, in which material modifications will exist; but the Maricopa thinks that the existence of man, after death, closely resembles his earthly career that his wants and requirements will be very similar to those he experienced in this world. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 105 Acting on this belief he will sacrifice at the grave of a warrior all the property of which he died possessed, to gether with all in possession of his various relatives. The decease of a warrior therefore becomes a bona fide cause for mourning; for each of his immediate relations is stripped of any goods they may own, in order that his spirit may assume a proper place and distinction among his predecessors in the other world. This solemnity of course impoverishes all his relations, and its exaction creates sincere grief. How completely is this custom at variance with ours. How clearly does it exhibit the differ ence between savage and enlightened views on a point of no common importance. This custom, so strictly enforced among the Maricopas, does not exist among the Pimos; but in the case of an intermarriage between the two tribes the deceased is invariably sepultured in rigid accordance with the views of his or her tribe. Self-interest is, after all, as strong a motive among Indians as among whites, and for this reason intermarriages between the two tribes are so rare, even after one hundred years of undivided co-existence on the same lands, and prosecu tion of the same general objects. A more marked dissimilarity is observable in their su perstitions regarding warfare. The American officer can take a body of Pimos and follow up the trail of a hostile force until he has run his game to earth, when a fight takes place, in which he can depend upon the pluck and courage of his followers; but should the contest result in the death of a single enemy, or in that of a Pimo, he must bid adieu to any further effort for the time being, for the Pimos will immediately about face and return to their villages, to undergo the process of purification from blood. No threats, no inducements can make them alter or modify this course. It is a part of their religion, and 106 LIFE AMOXG THE APACHES. they will observe its dictates. One, or twenty, or a hun dred of the enemy may be killed during the engagement, but if blood be spilled the Pimos will return to their villages for the purpose above stated. Ifot so with the Maricopas, although they are prone to abandon the war path after the enemy has been met and overcome; but if led by energetic white men they will continue and obey them to the end. The reader cannot fail to have re marked some singularly diverse traits of character in these two tribes; and this difference is the more extra ordinary in view of the fact that they have been domiciled together for so many years, and been acting under one common bond of sympathy and interest. It only affords another convincing proof, if any such were required, of the unchangeable and unimpressible character of the North American savage. The country inhabited by the Pimos and Maricopas is a dead flat with clayey soil, which is extremely tenacious when wet, and sparsely covered with mesquit trees. It is a fine wheat land, and the Indians raise very abundant crops of wheat, melons, pumpkins and corn; but their supplies are almost wholly limited to these articles. As before recited, they manufacture a very superior quality of cotton blanket, which will turn rain, and is warm, com fortable and lasting. Dr. David Wooster of San Fran cisco, who resided among them for some time, and com piled a vocabulary of their language, is, perhaps, better informed with regard to these tribes than any other white man. He was indefatigable in his researches, and re ceived the confidence and affection of these Indians for his many benevolent acts, and his self-sacrificing atten tion to their sick, without the hope or prospect of pay or reward. The remembrance of his many kind deeds is cherished among them, and they charged me, on my last visit, to make known that fact to their benefactor. LIFE AMONG THE APACfl . 107 "We left the Piino villages with much misgiving, as we had li-arned that the Yumas, ou the Colorado river, had declared war with the Americans, and our party at that time was only ten strong, seven Americans and three Mexicans, among whom was the step-father of Inez, who had consented to act as guide and arriero for our party. Just as we were about to depart an incident occurred ex planatory of Indian character, and for that reason worthy of a place in this work. Gen. Garcia Conde had been to the Colorado river with his command, and returned to the Pinio villages, bringing with him a noted Yuina chief, named Antonio. This brave had signalized himself in the frequent con tests between the Yumas and Maricopas, and had earned the undying vengeance of the latter tribe. Gen. Conde, however, persuaded him to act as guide for his party, promising to protect him from all harm, and to have him safely returned to his country and people. On arriving at the Maricopa village, which was the first to the west ward, it was soon bruited abroad that Antonio was with the Mexicans and under their protection. Hundreds of Maricopas and Pimos visited Gen. Conde's camp to get a sight of their famed enemy, but no overt demonstra tions were made, as Gen. Conde warned them that lie would protect Antonio at all hazards, and they had no disposition to provoke his power to enforce his promise. The next morning Antonio was found dead, his body pierced in many places. Gen. Conde was much grieved, but as the deed had already been consummated, and there was no clue whatever of the murderers, he con- tt-nted himself with giving decent Christian sepulture to the remains, and then immediately prosecuted his jour ney. Two days afterward we passed down the road, going 108 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. westward, and it was my lot to be something like a mile or two in the rear of my comrades, but being better mounted than they, this fact gave me no concern, es pecially as I knew that we were among peaceful and in offensive tribes. Just south of the last" village inhabited by the Maricopas, a low, flat-topped hill is met, with its northern base close to the highway along which I had to pass. On arriving near this hill, I observed a very large crowd of Indians on its summit and sides, who appeared to be performing a series of most unusual antics, accom panied with occasional discordant and ear-splitting yells. At first I feared that my comrades had commit ted some act that had aroused their vengeance, but cooler consideration convinced me that they were not the men to do foolish acts. I rode forward at a round gallop, with the intention of passing the hill and its occupants as quickly as possible without appearing to be in flight, but I was not destined to escape so easily. Four or five stalwart warriors placed themselves in the road and beck oned me to hold up, and, believing discretion to be the better part of valor, on this occasion at least, I obeyed their summons. One took my horse, while another as sisted me, most courteously, to dismount, and then taking my hand, led me up the ascent, accompanied by his associates. It beggars all my descriptive powers to depict the scene which met my astonished gaze when I reached the summit and was introduced inside the inner ring. From four to five thousand Indians were present. The squaws were formed in three complete circles near est the center, leaving a space of two hundred yards diameter. Around these were great numbers of warriors, of greater or less fame, and boys from ten to fifteen years of age. In the center of the open space a human head, and the forearms with hands attached, were placed upon LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 109 r the ground the head standing on the stump of the neck, which was supported by a stick driven into the ground and thrust up through the throat, and the arms and hands crossed, one over the other, immediately in front of the face. I recognized the head to be that of Antonio, the murdered Yuma chief, and concluded that the pres ent gathering was held for the purpose of a grand jubilee over his death. My conjecture was correct, but before I had time to reflect, I was seized by the hands of two powerful Indians, who joined others, until a small ring of sixty or seventy were got together, and was hurried round and round, in a regular dance, about the horrid spectacle for the space of several minutes. Showing* signs of fatigue from the violent rotary motion, I was rescued by a friendly Pimo, who said: "Do you like this thing ?" "Certainly," I replied, "it is your way of rejoicing over the death of your enemies, and as the Pimos and Maricopas are our friends, I do not see why I should not rejoice with you." This response delighted him greatly, and he immedi ately translated it to the multitude, who greeted me with terrific yells of approbation. Availing myself of the good feeling engendered, I desired my robust friend, whose every limb quivered with excitement, to state to the multitude that my party had gone on a long time before; that the country over which I had to pass was frequently the scene of Apache horrors; and that I had sufficiently expressed my sympathy with the occasion to be allowed to depart in peace. This speech was received with another chorus of yells, and I was gently conducted down the steep, at the base of which I found my horse in safe keeping. My conductors were warmly thanked, and I set off .at full gallop to join my comrades, delighted 6 110 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. at having so easily escaped the well meant but revolting hospitality of the savages. Twelve miles further on we entered the Gila Bend desert. At this point the Gila river trends to the north and describes a curve of one hundred and twenty miles around the northern base of a long range of mountains, resuming its original course westward about fifty miles from the point of departure. This space of fifty miles is entirely without water, and is the highway for the Coy- oteros and some of the Sierra Blanca Apaches making raids upon Sonora. The probabilities were very much in favor of meeting one or more war parties of those tribes, and we kept a strict lookout during the transit, but failed to see any, although we may have been ob served by them. On the afternoon of the third day after leaving the Pimos, we came upon the scene of the Oatman massacre, and as the coyotes had dug up the remains of the mur dered party, they were carefully and safely re-interred by us. Here was another caution to beware the treach ery and malice of the Apaches. The lesson was well heeded by our little band; but we felt ourselves able to whip five times our number in fair fight, and the strictest vigilance was observed in passing any place which could shelter an ambush. Next day we camped on the Gila, under a splendid grove of high and clear cotton-wood trees. There was no underbrush for hundreds of yards in every direction, and our rifles could easily reach the surrounding expanse, in case of attack, while the friendly trees would afford us good shelter. Every one was busy some collecting dry wood for the guard fire, others in cooking, others again in securing the animals and pro viding their food when I suddenly perceived an Indian running toward us with both arms raised above his head. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. Ill I was about to draw a bead upon the fellow, but seeing that he was alone and unarmed, I refrained, and beck oned him to come forward, which he did with decided good will. He spoke Spanish well enough for all prac tical purposes, and informed us that he was a Maricopa and had been captured by the Yumas, together with a woman of his tribe, some months before, but had man aged to effect his escape a few days before meeting our party, and as he and his companion were starving, they came to ask our assistance, having struck our trail at the entrance to the camp ground. He then uttered a pecu liar cry, and was immediately joined by the woman, who had concealed herself to await the issue of his visit. The poor woman presented a thin, worn and suffering ap pearance, which did not require the use of language to explain. Our first care was to supply these poor crea tures with food and a spare blanket each; for, as we had left the higher and colder regions, and were entering upon the warmest known on the globe, and as our means for transportation were becoming beautifully less, we could afford to be generous in this respect, especially as the probabilities were greatly in favor of abandoning or cacheing the major part of our effects, among which were a number of costly instruments, which could neither be eaten nor drank. No further questions were^pressed upon our guests until their hunger had been appeased, when, sitting at the camp fire, the man gave us the following narration, corroborated in all points by his companion. Some five months previous, a large war party of the Yunias had come up the Gila with the intention of cut ting off small detachments of Maricopas and Pimos, who annually visit the Gila Bend desert to collect the' fruit of the petajaya, a gigantic species of cactus. This fruit is dried in the sun and closely resembles our figs in point 112 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. of size, taste and shape, but the external husk or cover ing is not edible. They also macerate it in water after being dried, when the saccharine qualities causes the liquid to ferment, and after such fermentation it becomes highly intoxicating. It is upon this liquor that the Mar- icopas and Pimos get drunk once a year, the revelry con tinuing for a week or two at a time; but it is also a uni versal custom with them to take regular turns, so that only one-third of the party is supposed to indulge at one time, the remainder being required to take care of their stimulated comrades, and protect them from injur ing each other or being injured by other tribes. The Yumas are well acquainted with the custom, and the party referred to had gone up the Gila to profit by the circumstance. In that raid they succeeded in killing a few Maricopas and taking prisoners the man and woman who were then our guests and informants. Of course any species of labor and hardship that could be imposed they were compelled to undergo, until the arrival of a band of twenty-one Americans with a great many sheep which they were driving to California. The military, consisting of a Sergeant and ten men, had been driven off by the Yumas just before the advent of these visitors, who were wholly ignorant of the fact, and quite unpre pared to expect the hostility which terminated with their massacre. They were received by the Yumas with every profession of friendship, the Indians bringing in large quantities of slim, straight and dried cotton-wood branches to build fires with, and rendering them other kindly services, so that all apprehension was completely lulled. "While the evening meal was in preparation, the Yumas interspersed themselves thickly among the Amer icans, who had some four fires going, built by the Yumas, who had placed the long, smooth cotton-wood LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 113 branches across each other, in every direction, and the fire as nearly to the center as possible. So soon as those sticks had burned through so as to leave an effective club at each end, a single sharp cry gave the signal, upon which each Yuma present, probably a hundred, seized his burning brand, and commenced the work of death, dealing blows to the nearest American, while an other large party rushed fully armed upon the scene, and quickly dispatched their unprepared and unsuspect ing visitors. The Americans fought with desperation, discharging their six-shooters and using their knives with bloody effect, but were soon overcome by resistless numbers, and slain to a man. It was during this con test, which engaged the whole attention of the Yumas, that our two guests managed to effect their escape. They had traveled for four days without food, hiding them selves from morning till night, and prosecuting their way only after dark. Seeing a small party of Americans, whom they knew were always friendly to their tribe, and incited by the double motives of obtaining food and warning us of our danger, they had sought our camp. Our danger was indeed imminent. Our party con sisted only of seven Americans and three Mexicans, and our ammunition had been reduced to forty rounds for each weapon. A party of well armed men, more than three times our number, had been massacred only a few days before by a hostile tribe of Indians, through the heart of whose country we would be compelled to make our way, if we continued. The enemy had driven off the miserably small garrison, and were flushed with the success of their last great robbery and murder. The Colorado river was impassable without a launch, and that was in possession of the Indians. "We were in a "regular fix/' and a council of war was immediately 114 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. held. I am free to acknowledge that I was afraid to go forward, and used every argument to show the foolhard- iness of such an attempt, but all my objections were met by the imperturbable Dr. Webb, who contented himself with saying " Our provisions are nearly exhausted, our ammunition is nearly expended, we are ordered to go on, and it is our duty. We may be killed, but it is bet ter to die fighting, since we have been warned and are on our guard, than to die of starvation on these terrible deserts. In any case, it is only a choice of deaths, but it is certain destruction to turn back, while we may man age to escape or pass the Yumas in safety." It was finally agreed to adopt his views keep a sharp lookout, fight if need be, to the bitter end, and die like men in the proper discharge of a recognized duty. This deter mination was duly imparted to our Maricopa friends, who could not restrain expressions of amazement, and gave us some additional valuable information about the existence of the launches in which to cross the Colorado, the nature and habits of the Yumas, their treacherous manner of approach, and the best means for us to adopt. Those kindly people were then supplied with provisions enough to last them to their villages, and took leave of us with unfeigned regret, expecting never to see one of our number again. My next meeting with them will be found in a succeeding chapter. Early next morning we resumed our journey down the Gila, and prosecuted it for several days until we reached the Colorado near its junction with the Gila. At that period the whole country was a wilderness, and the place now occupied by large houses and well filled stores, with an American population of six or seven hundred souls, was waste and desolate. The approach to the river was hidden by a dense mass of young willow trees, through LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 115 which we had to pass in order to reach water, of which ourselves and animals were greatly in need. The ther mometer stood at 118 degrees Fahrenheit, in the shade, and we had marched twenty-four miles that day without water. On emerging from the willows to the banks of the broad, red, swift and turbid stream which met our gaze, we discovered, on the opposite side, within easy rifle reach, a large number of Yuma men, women and children, a fact which assured us that our approach had not been known by that tribe. They instantly fled in all directions, thereby proving their fear and suspicions, whi*ch would not have been entertained if the two people had been at peace with each other. Having watered our suffering animals, we prosecuted our way down the Col orado, and encamped upon an open sand beach, with three hundred yards of clear ground in the rear and the river in front. No weapon in possession of the Yumas could reach anything like that distance, while our rifles commanded the whole area. Our animals were drawn up in line on the river side with a careful guard, and were fed with an abundance of young willow tops, which they eat greedily. Our fires were well supplied and kept blazing brightly, so as to shed light on the sur rounding shore and disclose the approach of any enemy. In this manner we passed an anxious night. The next day, soon after dawn, an Indian presented himself unarmed, and with reiterated assurances of the most cordial friendship for the Americans. He subse quently proved to be Caballo en Pelo, or the "Naked Horse," the head chief of the Yumas. Our reception was not calculated to excite his hopes, every one extend ing his left hand, and keeping a revolver in his right, and it was not long before Caballo en Pelo found that he -had committed himself to the tender mercies of men 116 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. who entertained the deepest suspicion of his professed amity. To test his sincerity, Dr. Webb asked what had become of the soldiers, to which he replied that they had voluntarily withdrawn three months before. This we knew to be a lie, as Gen. Conde had informed us of their presence with a couple of good launches to assist the crossing of immigrants, and we had met the General only twenty days previous, when this information was received from him, who had come directly from the Col orado in eleven days. The report of our Maricopa visit ors also disproved the statement of Caballo en Pelo, and we immediately consulted together as to our future course, which was afterward carried into effect, as the reader will discover, and to it I attribute our escape from the treacherous Yumas. We subsequently learned that the persons massacred by the Yumas just before our arrival, were John Gallan- tin and his band. This man had the reputation of being- one of the worst scoundrels who ever existed even in that demoralized and villainous region. It is reported ..of him, that the Governor of Chihuahua, having offered a premium of thirty dollars for every Apache scalp, Gal- lantin got together a band of cut-throats and went into the business. But all his activity and cupidity failed to find the Apaches, and scalps became very scarce. De termined to make money out of the Governor's terms, he commenced killing Papago, Opatah and Yaqui Indians, whose scalps he sold in considerable numbers at thirty dollars each, declaring that they had been taken from the heads of Apaches. But the ease with which Gallan- tin and his band supplied themselves, without producing any sensible diminution of Apache raids, excited sus picion, and he was actually caught taking the scalps from the heads of several Mexicans murdered by his LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 117 people in cold blood. Finding that he had been discov ered in his unspeakable villainies, he fled to New Mexico, where, by stealing and by purchase, he collected about two thousand five hundred head of sheep, with which he was passing into California, when he encountered his well-merited fate at the hands of the Yumas. Not a soul of his band escaped death. At the period about which I am writing, Arizona and New Mexico were cursed by the presence of two or three hundred of the most infamous scoundrels it is possible to conceive. Innocent and unoffending men were shot down or bowie-knived merely for the pleasure of witness ing their death agonies. Men walked the streets and public squares with double-barreled shot guns, and hunted each other as sportsmen hunt for game. In the graveyard of Tucson there were forty-seven graves of white men in 1860, ten years after the events above re cited, and of that number only two had died natural deaths, all the rest being murdered in broils and bar room quarrels. Since Carleton's occupation of those Territories with his California Column, a great change for the better has taken place, and this melioration promises to gain ground. 6* CHAPTEE X. Fort Yuma. The Yuma Indians. Desperate Situation. Dr. Webb's Bluntness. Caballo en Pelo. Method of Camping. Yuma Chiefs our Prisoners. The Launch. Crossing the Colorado. March into the Desert. Release of the Yumas. Sandstorm in the Desert. Final Escape from the Yumas. Sufferings on the Desert. Carisso Creek. "Vallecito. Hospitality of Army Officers. Col. Heintzleman. Yumas Reduced to Subjection. THE foregoing digression is excusable, on the ground that it exposes, to some extent, the character of the American people who first made the intimate acquaint ance of the Indian tribes occupying the country on the direct route of migration between the Atlantic and Pa cific States, and, in a measure, accounts for their hostile advances. The Pimos and Maricopas must, however, be excepted from this category, as they never, on any occa sion, no matter how much goaded, exhibited any venge ful or adverse spirit toward Americans. In like man ner, these remarks cannot apply to the Apaches, who never, at any time, ceased their active hostility and treacherous attacks. Soon after Caballo en Pelo, or the "Naked Horse," entered our camp, he made a signal to his associates, and we soon had an accession of fourteen more, embrac ing several of the principal men in the Yuma tribe. They were all unarmed, and each one expressed his de sire to maintain friendly relations with our people. Dr. Webb, with his usual blunt honesty of character, and total neglect of policy, abruptly asked them "If you mean as you profess, why did you drive away the LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 119 small body of soldiers left here to assist the Americans in crossing the river and supplying their needs, and, why did you massacre the American party with sheep, who came here on their road to California ?" These un expected queries discomfited the savages, and threw us "all aback," as may readily be supposed. Caballo en Pelo, Pasqual, and several other leading men, undertook to deny these charges in toto, but we were too well in formed, and their denials only tended to put us more than ever on the qui vive. A few words interchanged between the members of our party decided our course of action. ^In any case we were fully committed, and nothing but perilous meas ures could decide the result of our desperate surround ings. It was determined to hold all the Yumas present as captives, subject to instant death upon the exhibition of any hostility on the part of that tribe. We felt that our lives were at the mercy of those savages, but also re solved that we should not be sacrificed without a corre sponding amount of satisfaction. Their principal men were in our camp unarmed; we had the disposal of their lives in our power, and knew that they could not escape in the event of any hostile act against our small party. These deliberations were fully unfolded to the chiefs, who were informed that no more of their tribe would be admitted into our camp without jeopardizing the safety of those already there. The} 7 were also told, that hav ing come of their own free will, they would be expected to remain during our pleasure, and, in the meantime, be fed fronvour very limited resources. They were further more informed that the launch which they had taken from the soldiers would be needed for our conveyance across the Colorado, and as we knew it to be in their possession, it must be forthcoming when required. The 120 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. first act of Caballo en Pelo was to signalize his people not to approach our camp, which was located on a sand- spit, with three hundred yards clear rifle range on all sides not covered by the river. He then went on to dis claim any inimical design, quoting the fact that he and his chief men had sought us unarmed, when they might have overwhelmed our paltry force with hundreds of warriors. He also stated that they had no hostile feel ings toward white men coming from the east, but would oppose all from the west, as they had learned that a force from that quarter was being prepared for a cam paign against them. They were not at war with Amer icans generally, but solely with those whom they ex pected from California with warlike intentions. Caballo en Pelo then asked if he and his companions were to consider themselves prisoners. To this home question Dr. Webb, who was in charge of our party, directed me to answer yes, they were; and would be held as such, until the launches they had taken from the soldiers were produced for our passage across the Colorado, and they had given satisfactory evidence of their peaceful inten tions. This abrupt announcement was not pleasing to our savage guests, who exhibited alarm, mingled with half -uttered threats of vengeance; but the old motto, "in for a penny, in for a pound," was the only one we could adopt under the circumstances, and our resolution was as unalterable as the laws of the Medes and Per sians. Dr. Webb furthermore informed the Yumas that they must order their warriors, who were gathering thickly on our side the river, not to approach within three hundred yards, adding, " we suspect your motives, and intend to have the first blood, if any is to be shed. Your chief men are in our power. Your people can kill us, as they LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 121 are so much more numerous, but we will kill you first, if they do not obey our orders which shall be promulgated through you/' This was undoubtedly the ' ' tightest fix " our visitors ever got in. They were by no means prepared for such a decided stand, and were quite at a loss for expedient. Seeing resolution in each man's eye, and knowing that it was our determination to put them to death the moment any decidedly hostile step should be taken by their peo ple, they concluded to make the best of a bad bargain, and escape by strategy from the trap they had prepared to spring upon us, but in which they had caught them selves. Caballo en Pelo made a few signs to the surrounding and anxious multitude, which then quietly retreated out of sight among the dense willows which grew with re markable luxuriance about three hundred yards from the river. We then dug two holes, about'twenty feet apart, parallel to each other, and each about five feet long by one and a half wide and two deep. In these holes we made blazing fires which rose about two or three feet above the surface of the ground, and between these fires we ordered the Yumas to lie down, side by side, while a sentinel with a cocked six-shooter paraded along the line of their heads, and another along the line of their feet. A flank escape was impossible, as it was prevented by a bright and hot fire on each side. Our few remain ing animals were drawn up in line on the river side of the camp, with a guard outside of them and within twenty feet of the whole party. "We slept but little that night, and at early dawn we were once more afoot, and in discussion with the Yumas, who stoutly denied any hostile motive, and professed indignation at their treat ment. We gave them a good breakfast, as we had given 122 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. them a plentiful supper the evening previous, and then reiterated our demand for the la.uneh.es, while they as stubbornly denied any knowledge of their existence. That day we moved down the river about eleven miles and selected a good camp ground early in the afternoon. Again we were surrounded by hundreds of Indians, but the personal fears of our hostages kept them at bay, and they did not approach nearer than three hundred yards. The night passed as the previous one had done, and we perceived it was the intention of the Yumas to wear us out, and then seize their opportunity; but this scheme was frustrated by the nerve and decision of Dr. Webb, who next morning informed Caballo en Pelo and his chief followers, that "we were well aware of the exist ence of the launches by oral as well as written intelli gence; that they were absolutely necessary to cross the Colorado; that we knew the Yumas had driven away the small garrison of American soldiers and had the launches in their possession; that we had met the escaped Marico- pas, who told us all about the massacre of Gallantin and his party, and the appropriation of the launches by the Yumas; and, finally, that if those launches were not forthcoming by twelve o'clock the next day, we should at once proceed to extremities and kill him and all the Yumas in our camp." It may well be supposed that this sort of talk aroused the liveliest alarm among our prisoners, who commenced an excited conversation in their own tongue, which cul minated in a request from Caballo en Pelo that one of his young men be permitted to leave our camp and make inquiry if the launches really were in existence, and if so, to bring it down river to our camp. This was agreed to, and a young lad, about eighteen years of age, the son of Pasqual, selected for the business. He was al- LIFE AMOXG THE APACHES.. 123 lowed to depart with the positive assurance that we would keep our words in regarc^to his father and the other head men of the Yuma tribe in our camp. That night we observed more than the usual precau tions, for one-half our number were on guard at all times. Next morning no Indians were to be seen, but at ten o'clock A. M., a large launch, capable of holding half our party with their baggage, was seen approaching un der the conduct of two Yumas. It was moored in front of our camp, and immediate preparations were made for crossing. Five of us, taking half the Yuma prisoners, immediately embarked with rifles in hand, ready for use, and as we could easily sweep both sides the river, our party was really as strong as ever. Our mules and horses were made to swim across under the lead and direction of two Yumas, who were kept within range of our rifles, and in this manner we succeeded in gaining the western bank of the Colorado, after three most ex citing days of detention amidst overwhelming numbers of" hostile savages; but our troubles were not yet ended. "We had still to undergo another ordeal, even more per ilous, because we had no hostages as securities for our safety from attack. Having gained the western bank of the Colorado in peace, the Yumas demanded to be released from captiv ity, but our safety would not permit such a course, and Dr. Webb informed them that they must remain in camp that night and would be set free next day. The utmost precaution was again observed throughout the night, and at three o'clock next morning we were once more en route toward California, accompanied by the leading Yumas, who were kept closely guarded. That day we penetrated twenty-eight miles into the great Colorado desert, halting about four o'clock p. M., in a place where 124 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. neither water nor wood existed, and completely sur rounded by hills and banks of white sand. With much toil several of our number ascended one or two of the highest hillocks, but as far as the eye could reach noth ing was to be seen but one unbroken expanse of sand white, dazzling under the rays of a burning sun, unre lieved by a single bush or shrub broken and fretted with countless hillocks, and utterly void of animal life. This part of the Colorado desert is much more frightful than the great Sahara of Africa. The absolute stillness and repose is something awful; it is death in life; it is the most impressive lesson of man's feebleness, and the most startling reproof against his vanity. In our case these sensations were not mitigated by the knowledge of being surrounded by a fierce, warlike and numerous In dian tribe, thirsting for our blood, and eager to revenge the indignity they had 'suffered by the captivity of their head chiefs, and the failure of their treacherous schemes. As before stated, we halted and made preparations as if to encamp. Dr. Webb then directed Mr. Thurber to ascend the highest sand hill in the neighborhood, exam ine all around with his field glass and report if the In dians were upon our trail. In about half an hour Mr. Thurber returned, and assured us that from two to three hundred Yumas were within five miles of our position, and heading toward our camp. There was no time to lose. Caballo en Pelo with his fellow captives were im mediately informed that they must take the back track and return to the river, that our road was toward the west, that we had no more provisions to give them, and that it was indispensable for us to part company then and there. To these requirements the wily chief demur red, and stated his desire to go on with us to California. He was overruled by the strong persuasive force of draw- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 125 ing our pistols, and giving him the sole alternative of obeying or dying. They chose the former, and decamped with haste. So soon as they disappeared round the base of a friendly sand hill, we immediately repacked our wagon, and drove on with all possible speed, hoping to escape in the fast coming darkness. Eleven years afterward, Pasqual himself told me that they met about three hundred of their warriors half an hour after being expelled from our camp, and the whole band came in pursuit of us, but as the Indian never risks life w T hen he thinks the same end can be accomplished by strategy, and as time is of no moment to them, it was agreed to fall foul of us just before daylight the next morning, and by a rapid and combined assault massacre our little party with comparative ease and impunity. Acting on that policy, they approached our abandoned camp with extreme caution, and commenced a survey from surrounding hillocks. They were not surprised to see no fire, as they knew there was no wood in that part of the desert, and they remained quiescent until nearly morning, when their scouts gave them the unwelcome information that we were gone. Our night was continued all night and part of the next day, until overtaken by one of those dreadful sandstorms which prevail on the Colorado desert. The day was in tensely hot, and tHe most oppressive silence seemed to reign absolute. Suddenly a dark, dense and singular looking cloud arose in the west and moved toward us with incredible velocity. Great masses of heavy sand were lifted as if they were so many feathers and carried high into the air with extreme violence. The places for merly occupied by huge hillocks containing many thou sand tons of sand, were swept clean as if by magic in a few moments, and the vast banks removed to other lo- 126 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. calities in the twinkling of an eye. Our mules fell flat upon their bellies and thrust their noses close to the ground, our horses followed their example none of us could stand against the force and might of the storm and we, too, laid down flat, hauling a tent over us. In a few moments the tent was so deeply covered with sand as to retain its position, and every now and then we were compelled to remove the swiftly gathering mass, to avoid being absolutely buried alive. Amidst the distress, the horrible sensations, and the suffocating feelings occa sioned by this sirocco, we entertained the grateful sense of protection from our savage pursuers, who were quite as incapable of facing that terrific storm as we were. For forty-eight hours we had not tasted food, and were more than a day without water in the hottest climate known to man, and our distress heightened by the in tense craving for water invariably attendant on those scorching blasts of the desert. These sensations were not alleviated by the fact of knowing that we had yet a journey of forty miles before we could find water. About three o'clock p. M., the storm passed off, and we instantly resumed our way without cooking food, for eat ing could only add to our already terrible thirst. All that night our weary feet trod that infernal desert until the glowing morning sun shone upon us like a plate of molten brass, but we had arrived at a~fine camp ground, thickly supplied with shady mesquit trees and abound ing with excellent grass for our worn-out animals, which had dwindled down to less than one-half the number we boasted before crossing the Colorado. About an hour after camping, the step-father of Inez, who served us as guide, reported that he saw an alamo tree a short dis tance off, and he believed that there must be water in its neighborhood. Several of us proceeded to the spot and LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 127 in a short time discovered a small pool containing about twenty gallons of water deposited in a hollow by a for mer copious rain, and sheltered from the sun by friendly brush. The joyful news was soon made known to the rest of our comrades, and our raging thirst slaked, after which the remainder of the water was equally divided among our famishing stock. As Carisso creek was then within a day's march, no thought was taken for the mor row, and after a most refreshing night's rest, we re-com- rnenced our journey at early dawn, reaching Carisso creek about five o'clock on the afternoon of the same day. At this place we felt ourselves wholly -safe from the Yumas. There was abundance of pasture, and water and wood, and we would have remained for a day or two to obtain much needed rest, but our provisions had en tirely given out, and we had still one hundred miles of travel before us without an ounce of food, unless such as might possibly be procured in the way of game. With sad hearts and weakened frames we pushed for ward until we reached Yallecito, where we found an American garrison consisting of a company of infantry and three officers. By these warm-hearted and gallant gentlemen we were received with the greatest courtesy and kindliness, and entertained by them with a warmth of hospitality which has found an abiding place among my most grateful recollections. Some time had elapsed since supplies were received from San Diego, and they were themselves on "short commons," and unable to furnish us with the provisions needed to complete our journey; but gave us freely to the extent of their power. It would have been gross ingratitude to remain there, living upon the very diminished stores of our kind enter tainers, and we again pushed forward the next day. Our course lay over the Volcan mountain, and upon its mag- 128 LIFE AMONG- THE APACHES. nificent height we found a rancho owned and inhabited by a big-hearted gentleman, who ministered to our wants and furnished us with two fresh mules. Next day we resumed our march, and soon after passing the old battle ground of San Pascual met Col. Heintzleman, in com mand of three hundred troops, on his way to chastise the Yuma Indians for their many murders and robberies. The officers were surprised to meet us coming from the river, and asked many questions, which we were de lighted to answer, giving valuable information. Col. Heintzleman's force was subsequently increased to five hundred rn?n, and after two years' active warfare he succeeded in reducing the Yumas, who have never since presumed to contend against our power. Since then Fort Yuma has become a noted frontier fortification, surrounded by many hundreds of American citizens, who live, for the most part, on the eastern bank of the river, and carry on a lucrative trade with the interior of Ari zona and the Yumas, Cocopahs, Cushans, Amojaves and other tribes. The waters of the Colorado are now plowed by half a dozen steamers, and my old enemies, the Yumas, do the "chores" and menial offices for the whites. The next day after meeting Col. Heintzleman we reached San Diego, devoutly thankful to Providence for our many and almost miraculous escapes from the tomahawks and scalping knives of the Indian tribes through which we had passed for the distance of two thousand eight hun dred miles. CHAPTER XL Letter from Senator Clemens. Resign from the Boundary Commission. Depar ture of the Commission. New Expedition. Ride up the Gila. Terrible Conflict with Apaches. Desperate Personal Encounter. Defeat of the Savages. Return of the Expedition. Long for a Quiet Life. San Fran cisco. Cogitations on Indian Character. Advice Given and Disdained. "flie Fatal Results. Necessity for Constant Caution. Extent of Apache Country. Numerical Strength of the Apaches. Female Warriors. False Impressions of Indian Character. A WEEK after our safe arrival in San Diego, worn-out and suffering from nearly two years' wandering upon the uninhabited deserts of Texas, Arizona, northern Sonora, and a portion of New Mexico, I received a warm, cordial and brotherly letter from the Hon. Jere Clemens, Sen ator from Alabama, who had been my Lieutenant-Colonel during a portion of the Mexican war, after the death of Col. Ransom, and the capture of Chapultepec, which letter informed me that although the appropriation for the Boundary Commission had passed Congress, yet John B. Weller, Senator from California, had managed to have inserted in it a proviso which would have the effect of rendering that appropriation unavailable, and that the probabilities were we would be disbanded in the deserts, without money, or the means of return to our friends and home at the East. He also advised me to leave the Commission, as we had arrived within the pre cincts of civilization, and pursue some other avocation. The advice and arguments of my former superior, whose kindness and remembrance had followed me throughout our toilsome and dangerous career, convinced niy mind 130 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. of their value, and I resigned my place in the Commis sion. Three weeks afterward it returned toward the East, while I remained in San Diego. About a month after the Commission had departed, carrying with it my warmest and most kindly esteem to ward its gallant and noble-hearted members, a small party of ten men was formed for the purpose of entering and exploring a portion of Arizona, with a view to locate and exploit some of its valuable gold and silver mines, and I was engaged as the interpreter and guide of the party, on a salary of five hundred dollars per month. On an appointed day we started, and after a tedious march, reached the Colorado, which was then the theater of an active war against the Yuma Indians. Col. Heint- zleman had arrived with his troops and had begun a vig orous campaign. We w T ere immediately crossed by the guard in charge of the launch, and cautioned about the Yumas, who were then supposed to be in force on the Gila, about thirty miles from its junction with the Col orado. In consequence of this warning, we determined to proceed by night instead of day until we had passed the field occupied by the savages. The rumbling of our two wagons, and the watchful stillness of our party, im pressed the savages with the belief that we were an armed body stealing a march upon them, and we passed unmolested in the dark, arriving at Antelope Peak in our march from Fort Yuma. Here we considered our selves comparatively safe from the Yumas, although ex posed to visits from the Tonto Apaches, who inhabit the northern side of the Gila from Antelope Peak to the Pimo villages. Our party was well armed, each person having two revolvers, a good rifle and a large knife, and we felt ourselves equal to four or five times our number of Indians in an open fight, but were also aware that the utmost precaution was necessary at all times. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 131 Just below and about what is known as GrinnelFs Station the road is covered from four to five inches deep with a fine and almost impalpable dust, containing- an abundance of alkali. The lightest treacj. sends it in clouds far over head, and a body of men riding together in close column are so thoroughly enveloped as to prevent the recognizing of each other at the distance of only three feet. In some places the road passes through the middle of an extensive plain, apparently incapable of affording covert to a hare. We had arrived at one of these wide openings, and were inclosed in a cloud of dust so dense as completely to bar the vision of all except the two who occupied the advance. One or two others attempted to ride on one side of the road, but the terrible thorns of the cactus and the pointed leaves of the Spanish bayonet which soon covered their horses legs with blood, and lamed the poor animals, induced them to resume the dusty road. No one expected an attack in so open, ex posed and unsheltered a place, yet it was the very one se lected for such a purpose. The wily savages knew that we would be upon our guard in passing a defile, a thick wood, or a rocky canon; and also judged that we might be care less while crossing an open plain. They were well ac quainted with the dusty character of the road, and re lying on it to conceal their presence, had secreted them selves close to its southern edge, awaiting our approach. &t a certain spot, where a dozen or two yucca trees elevated their sharp-pointed leaves about four feet above ground, and while we were shrouded in a cloud of dust, a sharp, rattling volley was poured into us from a dis tance of less than twenty yards. It has always been a matter of astonishment to me that none of our party were either killed or wounded; but w r e lost two mules and three horses by that fire. The dense dust prevented 132 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. the Apaches from taking aim, and they fired a little too low. It was no time for hesitation, and the order was at once given to dismount and fight on foot. We could distinguish little or nothing; shot after shot was ex pended in the direction of the savages; now and then a dark body would be seen and made a target of as soon as seen. Each man threw himself flat upon the ground; but scarcely any could tell where his companions were. It was pre-eminently a fight in % which each man was on "his own hook." While we laid prostrate the dust settled somewhat, and we were about to obtain a good sight of the enemy, when John Wollaston cried out "Up boys, they are making a rush." Each man rose at the word, and a hand to hand contest ensued which beggars all descrip tion. It was at this juncture that our revolvers did the work, as was afterward shown. Again the dust rose in blinding clouds, hurried up by the tramping feet of con tending men. We stood as much chance to be shot by each other as by the savages. The quick rattling of pis tols was heard on all sides, but the actors in this work of death were invisible. Tiie last charge of my second pistol had been exhausted; my large knife lost in the thick dust on the road, and the only weapon left me was a small double-edged, but sharp and keen, dagger, with a black whalebone hilt, and about four inches long on the blade. I was just reloading a six-shooter, whelf a robust and athletic Apache, much heavier than myself, stood before me, not more than, three feet off. He was naked with the single exception of a breach cloth, and his person was oiled from head to foot. I was clothed in a green hunting frock, edged with black, a pair of green pants, trimmed with black welts, and a green, broad-brimmed felt hat. The instant we met, he ad- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 133 vanced upon me with a long and keen knife, with which he made a plunge at my breast. This attack was met by stopping his right wrist with my left hand, and at the same moment I lunged my small dagger full at his ab domen. He caught my right wrist in his left hand, and for a couple of seconds a long time under such circum stances we stood regarding each other, my left hand holding his right above my head, and his left retaining my right on a level with his body. Feeling that he was greased, and that I had no certain hold, I tripped him with a sudden and violent pass of the right foot, which brought him to the ground, but in falling he seized and carried me down with him. In a moment the desperate savage gained the ascendant, and planted himself firmly on my person, with his right knee on my left arm, con fining it closely, and his left arm pinioning my right to the ground, while his right arm was free. I was com pletely at his mercy. His personal strength and weight were greater than mine. His triumph and delight glared from his glittering black eyes, and he resolved to lose nothing of his savage enjoyment. Holding me down with the'-grasp of a giant, against which all my struggles were wholly vain, he raised aloft his long, sharp knife, and said " Pindah lickoyee das-ay-go, dee-dab, tatsan," which means, "the white-eyed man, you will be soon dead." I thought as he did, and in that frightful mo ment made a hasty commendation of my soul to the Be nevolent, but I am afraid that it was mingled with some scheme to get out of my predicament, if possible. To express the sensations I underwent at that moment is not within the province of language. My erratic and useless life passed in review before me in less than an in stant of time. I lived more in that minute or two of our deadly struggle than I had ever done in years, and, as I 7 134 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. was wholly powerless, I gave myself up for lost another victim to Apache ferocity. His bloodshot eyes gleamed upon me with intense delight, and he seemed to delay the death-stroke for the purpose of gladdening his heart upon my fears and inexpressible torture. All this trans pired in less than half a minute, but to me it seemed hours. Suddenly he raised his right arm for the final stroke. I saw the descending blow of the deadly weapon, and knew the force with which it was driven. The love of life is a strong feeling at any time; but to be killed like a pig, by an Apache, seemed pre-eminently dreadful and contumelious. Down came the murderous knife, aimed full at my throat, for his position on my body made that the most prominent part of attack. In stantly I twisted my head and neck one side to avoid the blow and prolong life as much as possible. The keen blade passed in dangerous proximity to my throat, and buried itself deeply in the soft soil, penetrating my black silk cravat, while his right thumb came within reach of my mouth, and was as quickly seized between my teeth. His struggles to free himself were fearful, but my life depended on holding fast. Finding his efforts vain, he released his grasp of my right arm and seized his knife with his left hand, but the change, effected under ex treme pain, reversed the whole state of affairs. Before my antagonist could extricate his deeply-buried weapon with his left hand, and while his right was held fast be tween my teeth, I circled his body and plunged my sharp and faithful dagger twice between his ribs, just under his left arm, at the same time making another convulsive effort to throw off his weight. In this I succeeded, and in a few moments had the satisfaction of seeing my en emy gasping his last under my repeated thrusts. Lan guage would fail to convey anything like my sensations LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 135 during that deadly contest, and I will not attempt the task. About the same time the battle terminated with the defeat of our assailants, who lost ten killed and several wounded, how many we never knew. On our side, we lost one man James Kendick and had three wounded, viz: John Wollaston, John H. Marble and Theodore Heuston. Houston and Marble died of their wounds soon after reaching Tucson, although they received the kindest nursing and attention from that noble Castilian gentleman, Juan Fernandez, and his amiable family. This sad result broke up the party, and I returned to San Diego shortly afterward with a party of immigrants coming to California. The above was one of the few occasions wherein the Apaches have boldly attacked travelers from whom they could expect no great booty and lose many lives in a con flict. They were probably incited to the surprise by some more than usually daring spirit, who planned the affair and trusted for success in its distinctive and un expected nature. We were precisely in a portion of the country which afforded no ostensible covert, and conse quently made us less cautious. They knew the charac ter of the road, and the blinding nature and volume of the dust. They depended upon the first fire to slay a number of our party, and produce a panic among the survivors. They counted upon a surprise and an easy victory, and expected to inherit our horses, mules, arms and provisions. They had conceived well, and acted gallantly, but were frustrated, although the results were of the saddest nature to our small company, as they com pletely upset our original intentions by the death of The odore Heuston, who was the capitalist and founder of the expedition. 136 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. This event initiated me into another phase of Apache character I had never before seen. It proved that they are capable of bold and dangerous undertakings under very adverse circumstances, or when the chances are nearly evenly balanced; but this seldom occurs, as they almost invariably have opportunities to examine, at their leisure, all persons or parties who enter the regions in habited by them, and form their plans so as to take every advantage with the least possible chance of losing a man. After my return to San Diego, I determined to forsake my wild, almost nomadic life, and return to civilized ex istence. I was tired and disgusted with the incessant watchfulness, the unceasing warfare, and unrequited privations I had suffered. Life had been a round of con tentions for two years. I had passed through an un broken series of tribulations and dangers during that period. Hunger, thirst, severe cold and excessive heat, with much personal peril, had been my invariable con comitants, and I panted for a more quiet life. San Francisco held forth the only inducement on this coast, and thither I wended my way, on the steamer Sea Bird, then commanded by Capt. Healey, with Gorman as mate. As this narrative is wholly devoted to incidents and adventures among Indian tribes, the author will be ex cused from giving a recital of his life until he was again compelled, in obedience to orders, to renew acquaint ance with nomadic races. It is sufficient to say, that twelve years elapsed before such intimacy was effected, faithful details of which will be given in the succeeding chapters. During the period of quiescence from exciting life which succeeded two. years' eventful wanderings across LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 137 the North American continent, abundant opportunities existed for reconsidering and drawing just inferences from the past. The conclusions arrived at then appeared well founded, if judged from the light of the experiences through which I had passed; but a subsequent career, under unusually favorable circumstances, gave me to comprehend how much my early judgment had erred. I had seen bat the outside had witnessed but the husk; the interior the kernel of the nut still remained un- tasted and unknown. I had nattered myself with having achieved a fair knowledge of Indian character. I believe my personal observations had been sufficient to instruct me on that subject. Former travels through South America, from Buenos Ayres to Valparaiso when I was a sort of captive among the Pategonian Indians for seven months seemed to justify me in thinking I had made a correct analysis of Indian traits. But I was much in error. Sufficient credit had not been given to their mental powers, their ability to calculate chances, to estimate and foresee the plans of others, to take pre cautions, to manoeuvre with skill, to insure concert of action by a recognized code of signals, to convey infor mation to succeeding parties of the route, numbers and designs of those who preceded, and to bring together formidable bodies from distant points without the aid of messengers. Much, very much, was yet to be learned. A boy of twenty years is very apt to credit himself with having acquired a very satisfactory idea of human nature, and no amount of instruction and advice from his elders will induce him to change his views until a fuller experience makes him realize the fact that when he thought himself master of the situation, he was in reality only entering upon its rudimental knowledge. Of all people, Americans seem less inclined to receive 138 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. and profit by the advice of others founded upon a larger and more matured experience. They want to know for themselves, and place the most abiding faith in their own judgment and readiness of resource. They seem to regard a warning as a sort of reflection upon their per sonal courage or skill, and frequently treat friendly counsel with somewhat of petulance. A most lamenta ble instance of this nature occurred to myself. After my second term of military service in Arizona, I was re turning home via Fort Yuma, when I received an intro duction to a Paymaster, with the rank of Major, in the Regular service. Dr. Tappan, Assistant Surgeon of Vol unteers, was present at the time, and asked me to favor him with some instructions in reference to the marches, camping grounds, distances, and dangers to be met on their projected route up the Gila river to the place for merly known as Fort Breckinridge. It was clearly my duty, as well as my pleasure, to put him in possession of all the knowledge I had gleaned in reference to these points, and I closed my information by tracing a map of the route, and volunteering advice to the following effect. You must never, said I, permit your zeal to outrun your discretion. Remember that a well appointed and careful party may travel through Arizona from one year's end to the other, without ever seeing an Apache, or any trace of his existence, and from this cause travelers fre quently become careless and fall an easy prey to their sleepless watchfulness. Indeed, it is not difficult to point out many who have no faith in their apparent ubiquity, but believe that they must be sought in their strongholds. There are others again who will not be convinced that the eyes of these Indians are always upon them, because they see nothing to indicate that fact; but the truth is, every move you make, every step you ad- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 139 vance, every camp you visit, is seen and noted by them, with the strictest scrutiny. If they perceive that you are careful, prepared for any contingency, and always on your guard, they wll hesitate about making any attack with ten times your force, especially if your party does not oifer sufficient inducement in the matter of plunder. Bat if they observe the least neglect, or want of precau tion on your part, you will be assaulted at the very mo ment, in the very place, and under circumstances when least expected, with every probability of success in their favor. I further remarked, your party, I understand, will be a small one, of not more than ten or twelve per sons, including an escort of nine men of the Regular Infantry. None of these men have probably ever been in an Indian country, and, if they have, no experience elsewhere will avail them among the Apaches, whose mode of warfare is so entirely at variance with those of all other tribes. The Regular soldiers, in order to pre serve the polish and fine appearance of their guns, are in the habit of carrying them in covers and unloaded. This should be avoided. The men should be made to carry their muskets loaded, capped, and ready for action at a second's warning. They must be restrained from strag gling, and moved in such order as will guarantee the greatest amount of security to every individual. Special care should be observed soon after entering a camping- ground, when the men generally lay aside their weapons and separate into detachments to bring wood and water. I cannot too strongly impress you with the necessity for a rigid observance of this caution in all cases where the party is small, and no sufficient armed body left in camp, or provided as guards for the protection of those engaged in other necessary duties. Dr. Tappan thanked me cordially for the information 140 LIFE AMONO THE APACHES. imparted, and especially for the advice given in relation to the Apaches, but the Major rather coolly intimated that he was quite capable of managing his own affairs, and had seen enough of Indian life to put him in posses sion of all necessary information. I touched my cap and withdrew somewhat mortified. Soon afterward intelli gence was received that the Major, Dr. Tappan and three others had been killed at the Cotton-wood Springs, by the Apaches. It seems that soon after entering upon the camp ground, the party broke into small unarmed squads, which went in search. of wood and to bring wa ter, when their ever-watchful and tigerish fees seized the opportunity to dash in and massacre all they could. In this miserable manner the lives of two valuable offi cers and three brave men were sacrificed for the want of a little caution which could have been easily exercised. Let it be borne in mind at all times that the Apaches have scarcely ever been known to make a fighting attack at night. Under cover of the darkness they will steal into camp and conceal themselves from detection with wondrous skill, in the hope of effecting a robbery; but that is the extent of their night operations, unless they become emboldened by the most reckless and foolhardy carelessness. Their onslaughts are almost invariably made by day, and at such times and places as tend to impart the greatest sense of security. When they mean mischief no marks are to be seen no traces, no tracks, no "signs" discoverable. The unsuspecting traveler, lulled into, a fatal belief that none of them are near, re laxes his caution, and is caught as surely as the spider meshes the confiding fly. I have seen men, who, being in company with large and well armed parties, had never seen an Apache after a year of wandering in their coun try, actually doubted the existence of those savages LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 141 except amidst their strongholds, until a recklessness begotten of unbelief, induced them to relax their watchfulness and incur special risks. In some cases, they have succeeded and got off scot free, but in ninety out of a hundred they have either fallen victims to mis placed confidence, or escaped almost by miracle. Let no one natter himself with the idea that, from the mo ment he has passed the Pimo villages, he is at any time unobserved by the Apaches. Being a non-productive race, subsisting wholly on plunder and game, and inca pable of providing a commissariat which will maintain any considerable body for even a week or two, they are scattered in small but active parties throughout the whole of Arizona, a large part of New Mexico, and all the northern portions of Chihuahua and Sonora, and in some parts of Durango. The territory over which they roam, and in which they appear to be ubiquitous, is more than three times larger than California; and Cali fornia possesses more area than all the New England States, together with New York and New Jersey. This is to say, that the country over which the Apache race holds the mastership which is literally the fact is nearly as extensive as all the States which border on the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico put together. No great expenditure of arithmetic is necessary to prove that, to domineer over a region so vast, to guard all its passes, to keep watchmen on all the principal heights overlook ing the plains usually traveled, to keep up a regular system of videttes over its expanse, to strike a half dozen places two and three hundred miles apart at the same time, to organize parties for scouring the wide valleys and attending the movements of travelers, and to be a terror and a scourge throughout its whole area, must employ the utmost resources, activity and energy of a 7* 142 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. numerous people, exceedingly vigilant and rapid in their movements. Casual observers have, unintentionally, done serious evil by underrating their real strength, to an extent al most inconceivable among those who are better informed. I have been in company with a body of fifteen hundred at the very time that intelligence was received that a half dozen other parties, numbering from twenty to three hundred each, were actively engaged in commit ting depredations at other points embraced in a radius of five hundred miles, and yet I have seen the number of Apaches estimated as low as fifteen hundred and two thousand. Nearly eight years of personal experiences have satisfied me that the Apache race, collectively, will number fully twenty-five thousand souls. In this esti mate the Navajoes and Lipans are not included, but those are who inhabit portions of northwestern Mexico. Of this number five thousand are capable of taking the field and bearing an active part in their system of warfare. A boy of fourteen is quite as formidable an antagonist as a man of forty. From behind his rocky rampart or wooded covert he speeds a rifle ball as straight to the heart of his foe, while his chances for escape, in the event of failure, are greater than those of his more aged and heavier as sociate. Many of the women delight to participate in predatory excursions, urging on the men, and actually taking part in conflicts. They ride like centaurs and handle their rifles with deadly skill. I cannot conceive why the bullet sped by a woman should not be quite as much an object of danger as the one shot from the weapon of a man. In the estimate made, no account is taken of the fighting women, who are numerous, well trained, and desperate, often exhibiting more real courage than the men. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 143 If any one indulges the idea that the Apaches are weak and few; that they can be reduced to submission by the establishment of scattered forts in the regions occupied by them; that they can be tamed, and rendered peace able under any circumstances; that they are to be bound and holden by treaty stipulations; that they are suscep tible of any law except the lex lalionis, or are to be constrained by any rule but that of the argumentum ad hominum, they are wonderfully in error. The succeeding chapters of this unpretending volume of personal experi ence acquired after nearly eight years of extraordinary facilities to learn the truth will probably have the effect to disprove these sophistries in a convincing manner. And. here, I assert, that I was in every way predisposed to offer every kindly act toward that race. Admiring their unyielding resistance ; their acknowledged prowess; their undisputed skill and dexterity; their undoubted in telligence and native force of character; acquainted with their language, traditions, tribal and family organiza tions, and enjoying their confidence to a degree never before accorded to any but an Apache, I strenuously used every effort in consonance with my orders and plain duties, to better their condition, and instill such infor mation as would best conduce to their future peace and happiness. These facts will appear in the course of my narrative, together with the lamentable failure of all con ciliatory schemes, which were notably aided and seconded by the commanding General and his subalterns. CHAPTER XII. Enter the Volunteer Service. The Column from California. Antelope Peak. Visited by Yumas. Making Metates. Get Rid of them by a Ruse. The Maricopas Again. Carrying the Mails. Small Force in Camp. Visit of Col. Bigg. The Maricopas Recognize me. Their Gratitude. Captain Killmoon. Another Remarkable Lunar Performance. Loring's Assist ance. Bargaining for Chickens. Magic Virtues of the Compass. Effect of the Burning Glass. TEN years had passed away before I renewed acquaint ance with "Lo." It had been my fervent desire and solemn resolve never more to revisit the scenes of so much suffering and personal risk. No pecuniary offer would have proved a sufficient inducement to forego that resolve. But the dreadful war of rebellion burst with fury over our heads. My country needed the help of all her loyal sons, and I quietly placed myself in their ranks as Captain of a company of the Second Cavalry, Califor nia Volunteers. General James H. Carleton was ordered to advance into Arizona and New Mexico, with a column of nearly three thousand California!! soldiers, consisting of artillery, infantry and cavalry. He did me the honor to select my company from my regiment and make it a part of his force. Although nattered by the compliment, as mine was the only company of the Second Cavalry attached to his column, I felt by no means delighted with the prospect of again traveling those arid, exten sive, and most inhospitable deserts, mountain gorges, and scorching plains, over which the Apache held almost undisturbed rule. In military life obedience to order is the first requisite of a soldier, and of course I submitted LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 145 without murmur to this unexpected and disagreeable mandate. It is foreign to the text of this work to enter into de tails of experiences not indicative of Indian character, and I will, therefore, pass over the many occurrences of military life during the trying winter of 1861 and 1862, when nearly the whole State was overflowed, and over sixty millions of dollars worth of property destroyed by the floods. It is not necessary to recite the gigantic labors performed by the column from California, in mak ing roads; digging and restoring wells in desert places; constructing bridges; establishing depots; escorting trains, and sending forward advanced bodies of observa tion; for certain intelligence had been received that the enemy were advancing upon the frontiers of this State, and were not far from Fort Yuma. All these details have no connection with this volume, and will therefore be ignored. I was ordered in the advance by Gen. Carleton, with instruction to occupy the pass at Antelope Peak until his arrival. On reaching that place I found that the Gila river had made great inroads upon the mesa or table land between it and the hill, until only a passage of something like a hundred yards intervened. Of this pass I took possession, drawing up my two wagons and picket line in such a manner as to intercept all travel, while a lookout was maintained during the day from the top of the peak, and a well ordered patrol scoured the country for a space of ten miles to the eastward at all times of day and night. During our occupancy of this pass a band of Yumas, about thirty in number, all war riors, came up from the Colorado river to collect stones, and make metates for their wives. The metate is a slightly hollowed hard stone, upon which soaked maize is laid, 146 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. and then reduced to paste by the vigorous friction of an other oblong and partially rounded stone, in the hands of squaws " who love their lords." The paste so formed is then patted between the hands until it assumes a flat, thin and round appearance, when it is laid on a hot pan and baked into a tortilla. As no stones of a suitable character are found in the neighborhood of the Colorado river, nearer than Antelope Peak, the Yum as yearly visit that place to obtain them, as the metate is an indispens able culinary utensil. Three days after we had occupied the pass we were visited by the Yumas, who immediately set to work se lecting stones and hewing them into the required shape in their rude manner. But it was soon discovered that* several blankets, and a revolver, for which I was res ponsible, had disappeared, and I determined to get rid of my Yumas friends soon by stratagem if possible, by force if need be. The deadly feud between the Yumas and the Maricopas and Pimos has already been stated, and the knowledge of this feud served me in the case. The sentinel on the hill was instructed to give the alarm to indicate the advance of a body from the east, and to answer, when questioned, that they were Indians. As that side of the compass was occupied only by the Maricopas and Pimos, such an arrangement would probably have the effect of alarming the Yumas and ridding us of their presence. In obedience to order the signal was duly made and the programme carried out. The Yumas w r ere greatly alarmed, and inquired whether I would protect them from the Maricopas. My answer was, that I had nothing at all to do with their quarrels; that the Mari copas were as much our friends as the Yumas; that I possessed no power to take sides, but was entirely sub servient to the orders of my chief, and that, if they LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 147 would procure such an order, I would obey it to tlie letter, but under any other circumstances refused to take action in the premises. This was enough. Hastily bund ling up their metales they decamped with the utmost ce lerity and left us undisturbed during the remainder of our stay at Antelope Peak. - Sometime afterward we reached the first Maricopa vil lage, where I was ordered to establish my camp and keep up communications between the column and Cali fornia. Lieut. -Col. Theodore Coult, of the infantry, was in command at the central village, twelve miles beyond my post, and successive orders of his reduced my force to the Orderly Sergeant, E. B. Loring, (subequently Cap tain of Co. A, Second Cavalry, Cal. Vols.) one man with a broken arm, and myself. My chief bugler and Quar termaster-Sergeant, George Shearer, had been dispatched across the Grila Bend, sixty-five miles, with the mails, and orders to bring forward the return mails from California. Our camp was located on an extensive, clear plain, cov ered with short, green alkaline grass, wholly unfit for our animals, of which we had twenty-seven, including horses and mules. There was also about fifty thousand dollars worth of Government property to be guarded, and for which I was responsible. By digging a foot or two, water was obtainable in abundance, but it was so deeply impregnated with alkali as to be almost un- drinkable. However, there was nothing else for it, and we were compelled to use it or die of thirst. The camp ground was nearly two miles west from the near est Maricopa village, and had frequently been invaded by the Apaches. As our animals were sickened by the grass about us, it became indispensable to graze them in a more favorable locality which existed about three miles further westward, and exactly where the Apaches were 148 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. frequently visitors. Fortunately, we escaped their at tentions at that time. Our far-reaching carbines swept the whole expanse around "us, and we had formed a sort of redoubt of earth, as a defense in case of attack, within which our ammunition, spare arms, provisions and per sonal effects were ensconced. One kept guard while the other slept. Our animals were placed in a line which could be swept by our fire, and the wagons so arranged as to furnish additional defense. In this unpleasant and inglorious manner several days passed, until the arrival of Col. E. A. Bigg, who was quite astonished at the facts brought to his knowledge and immediately imparted them to the commanding General, by whom I was or dered once more in the advance, and the major part of of my company reunited under my control. The grazing ground to which we resorted during our stay near the Maricopa villages had been the scene of a desperate conflict between that tribe and the Pimos, on one side, and the Yumas, Chimehuevis, and Amojaves, on the other. Victory rested with the Maricopas and Pimos, who slew over four hundred of the allied tribes, and so humiliated them that no effort has ever been made on their part to renew hostilities. This battle oc curred four years before our advent, and the ground was strewed with the skulls and bones of slaughtered war riors. Every day large numbers of the Maricopas visited my camp and were received with kindness, which they never failed to appreciate. On one occasion the head chief, Juan Chivari, and his Lieutenant, Palacio, paid me a visit, and almost immediately recognized me as the man who, ten years before, they had dubbed with the title of "Captain Killmooii," by reason of the part I took when Lieut. Whipple was observing an eclipse of the moon. I acknowledged the soft impeachment and LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 149 was received with every demonstration of regard and kindness. Messengers were dispatched to inform the Maricopa man and woman we had succored more than twelve years before; and, although they resided some ten miles distant, in another village, in less than four hours they were hugging and embracing me as if I were their warmest friend. This recognition and gratitude for the slight services rendered touched me nearly, especially when the priceless information they imparted at the time was probably the means of saving our lives. Every little gift within my possession was freely and gratefully con ferred upon these two deserving beings, savages though they were, who had married and were passing their peaceable lives together. One afternoon Palacio said to me: "You killed the moon once, and brought it to life again. That was good. You are a great medicine. You were then among us. You are here once more. I have told my young people of the affair; -but they will not believe, although hun dreds were witnesses. When can you kill the moon again, and prove the fact?" An almanac happened to be within reach, and I re ferred to it for the next lunar eclipse. To my great sur prise, it stated that a full eclipse of that luminary would take place two nights from that date. Preserving the greatest composure, I told Palacio that if he would bring his people to my camp two nights from that time, and wait till a certain hour, I would again kill the moon, and again restore her to life. This piece of news was extensively spread throughout all the villages; and next day my camp was thronged, from morning till night, with Maricopas and Piinos anxious to know if Palacio had reported correctly. They were answered in the affirmative, and sent away with very mixed sensations. 150 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. Before the time for slaughter arrived, I visited the grazing ground and selected seven finely polished skulls of Yumas, which I kept concealed in a sack. A quan tity of powder was then mixed and made into a paste, and so arranged as to compose fuses. A few iron filings were mixed with several of these fuses, and a number of carbine caps arranged in such a manner as to flash and snap when required. The skulls were placed in a circle, the center of which I was to occupy. In each one was a burning candle, the light from which shone through the eye sockets. In front of every skull was a small fuse, and from each fuse led a train of dry powder to the center of the ring. Back of the fuses were placed considerable charges of dry powder, which would ex plode so soon as the fuses burned to their locations, and which explosion would immediately extinguish the can dles, leaving all in darkness. The skulls were also at tached to each other by a fine but strong thread, and the thread to a small twine, which, when drawn in, would bring the whole affair in a pile, and allow of their secre tion. All my designs were confided to Loring, the Or derly Sergeant, and our plans laid. Long before the appointed time, (about ten o'clock p. M.) the camp was crowded by excited Pimos and Mar- icopas. Probably three thousand were present. - It was necessary to distract their attention from my movements, and I directed Sergeant Shearer to draw them off by some device from my immediate neighborhood. In this he succeeded admirably. No one was present to observe what I did. The skulls were properly arranged; the fuses, powder and caps laid, and candles lighted; and I took my place in the center, armed with a sabre, my head and right shoulder bare, and my gaze fixed on the moon, which was about to be obscured. The signal LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 151 was given, and Shearer led the excited crowds toward my position. "With great ceremony I drew a circle round the lighted skulls, and forbade the already frightened audience from passing that bound on pain of death. I sat in the center of the circle, with my head between my hands, waiting for time to pass until the eclipse should be complete, or nearly so. The silence and anxiety of that immense crowd of savages was something fearful. I was undertaking a dangerous experiment. If it failed, the consequences might be fatal; if it succeeded, my in fluence among them would be almost unbounded. Cir cumstanced as I was, the thing was worth trying. As an officer of my country, I felt the necessity of obtaining a moral as well as physical ascendancy of these populous tribes, which occupied the highway of immigration be tween the East and the West. I was almost alone among them, and they had begun to despise the paucity of my force. It had become necessary to re-assert our superi ority, and the adventitious circumstances before related favored my attempt. Crouched down, with a naked sa bre in my hand, gleaming with the lights thrown through the sightless sockets of the encircling skulls, I impa tiently waited the time to apply the match to my train. It came at last. The train was touched; the brilliant flame flashed with the speed of lightning and ignited the fuses, which fizzed and sputtered, and sent forth streams of bright sparks, lighting up the scene with somewhat of radiance, when suddenly the whole affair terminated in darkness. The change from intense light was so great that no one observed Shearer draw in and secrete the skulls, and when vision was restored the whole parapher nalia had passed away. In the meantime, the moon be gan to reappear; its disc became rapidly more observa ble and brilliant, until she again "O'er the dark her sil- 152 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. ver mantle threw " in all its splendor. The effect upon the surrounding Indians I can not pretend to describe; but the sobriquet of "Captain Killmoon" was unani mously adopted as a very proper appellation. About one o'clock A. M. the savages retired, and left us to the enjoyment of a hearty laugh and undisturbed repose. Two days afterward I had occasion to visit the head quarters of Col. Coult, and received his hospitality. That officer informed me that since our arrival the In dians had increased their prices for ground provisions, poultry, etc., five and six hundred per cent. Chickens, which had been a drug at a bit a piece, were then worth seventy-five cents. I told the Colonel that I could ob tain all I required at twenty-five cents each, and he com missioned me to purchase a dozen or more on his account. This statement of mine had been made off-hand, and without any deliberation. I had bought only three or four chickens, and had no right to determine the mar ket; but as the promise was given, it was my duty to ful fill it, even at expense to myself. Here, again, strategy came into play. "Captain Bob Shorty" was once more at his old tricks. I was the fortunate possessor of a powerful magnet and a fine pocket compass, and with these instruments I resolved to test the acumen of my savage friends. A strong burning glass aided me greatly, as it did on subsequent occasions, to obtain their implicit trust and confidence. Armed with these peaceable weapons, I in formed the Maricopas that chickens would find a ready market in my camp, and in a few hours several dozen were proffered. Determined upon paying only a fair price, I coolly commenced rolling a cigarito, at the same time giving one to a Maricopa, who went to the camp fire and got a light, with which he returned and prof- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 153 fered me the civility of igniting my cigarito from his. This did not suit my purpose, and taking my burning glass, I said "Do you think that a 'Great Medicine* like me would light his cigar from common fire? No; I will draw it from heaven/' and, suiting the action to the words, I drew a focus in that glaring sun, which soon gave me the needed fire. This simple achievement filled them with unbounded astonishment, and prepared them for the reception of other miracles. Turning to a war rior who appeared a person of some consequence, I or dered him to produce his chickens, whereupon half a dozen of fair quality were offered for sale. I took them one by one in my hand, appeared to go through a most careful examination, and then suddenly turning to the man, inquired what he meant by trying to deceive me. The poor fellow was exceedingly mortified, and asked in what particular. The reply was, you have offered to sell me sick chickens, unfit for food, and are therefore at tempting an imposition. He stoutly denied the charge, insisting that the chickens were sound and well. We will soon test that, I answered, and then deposited my fine pocket compass on the ground, holding the magnet concealed in the hollow of my left hand. v The needle , soon ceased oscillating and settled down to its proper pointings, when the Indian was requested to turn the compass round, which he did, and, to his great wonder, the needle again resumed its normal situation. After several essays of this kind, he became convinced that the north pole would invariably point northward, no matter what changes were made in the position of the case. So soon as the required impression had been effected, they were told to lay their chickens, one after the other, either on the east or west side of the compass, and informed that if the birds were good and healthy no change would be observed in the instrument; but if not, the north pole 154 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. would point directly at the object and detect the impo sition. These injunctions were implicitly followed, and keeping the magnet in my left hand, with the index fin ger of the right, I approached the instrument, muttering several cabalistic words, and described a half circle close to and about the case. Of course, no movement fol lowed, and the chicken was accepted at the price asked. In this manner two or three were bought: but then came my turn. Changing the magnet into the hollow of my right hand, I again approached the compass, at the south pole, and instantly it commenced to circle round in obe dience to well known causes, and under full control of the magnet, until the north pole pointed exactly toward the doomed chicken. There! I exclaimed, in a tone of simulated indignation, did I not tell you that some of your chickens were sick and bad? Do you expect to cheat a " Great Medicine?" If you are not more honest for the future, you may possibly be visited by a malady, which will kill off all your fowls. By this time a large and anxious crowd had assembled to witness this new and extraordinary test, and any at tempt to describe their wonderment would be fruitless. Realizing the impression made, I then continued in the following strain : I do not believe that you meant to be bad, but rather give you credit for ignorance, and I only claim that all the sick chickens shall be forfeited to me, for I can cure them, and make them ultimately useful. This proposition was eagerly accepted, nem. con., and in^ this manner I secured six dozen of excellent birds at the rate of two bits each, while only twelve miles distant my brother officers were paying six bits each for inferior birds. The Indians, knowing us to be in their power for supplies of this kind, had raised the prices five hun dred per cent. , and I had turned the scales against them by a very simple process. CHAPTER XIII. Sent to the Front. Dreadful Storm at the San Pedro Eiver. Night Alarm. Apaches Gathering. Dragoon Springs. Capt. Thomas Roberts. Apache Pass. Bloody and Desperate Fight with Apaches. The Savages Whipped. Remarkable Infantry March. Heroism of John Teal. He wounds Mangas Colorado, and whips off Fifteen Apaches. Gallantry of Sergeant Mitchel and his Cavalry. Effect of Shelling the Apaches. Number of Indians Killed. Our Losses. Re-enter the Pass. Refused Permission to Charge. San Simon. IN consequence of the report made by Lieut. -Col. E. A. Riggj Gen. Carleton again ordered me in the advance, with Capt. Thomas Koberts, Co. E, First California In fantry. Arriving at the San Pedro river, it became necessary to learn whether Dragoon Springs, some twen ty-eight miles further on, could supply both companies, at a time, with water, or whether we would be obliged to break into detachments. Capt. Roberts took the ad vance with his infantry and three wagons, having also selected seven of my best mounted men to serve as scouts and couriers. I remained behind with fifteen of my cav alry and ten of Roberts' company, including the detach ment left as a garrison at the river, where a tolerable adobe building, erected by the Overland Mail Stage Company, afforded decent shelter, and a defensible po sition. The night after Roberts left was one of the most stormy I ever witnessed. The rain descended in floods. Earth and sky appeared thunder riven; blazing light nings leaped from the inky clouds, and absorbed the Cimmerian darkness with their blinding flashes. The San 156 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. Pedro roared and foamed, the animals quailed and bent before the storm, and all nature seemed convulsed. I was in charge of sixteen wagons with' their mules and precious freight, and my chief attention was elicited to secure their safety. Experience had taught me that the Apaches would select exactly such a time to make a bold attempt, and I doubled my sentries. Throwing myself on the earthen floor, in front of a decent fire, without removing my side arms or any portion of my clothing, I endeavored to obtain some repose. About two o'clock A. M., I was aroused by the Sergeant of the guard, who informed me that strange lights were visible coming down the hills on the west, north and south sides. A hasty survey showed me four lights, as of large burning brands, on three different sides of the compass, and ap parently approaching the station. I felt convinced from this open demonstration, that no attack was meditated, for, in that case, the greatest secrecy and caution would have been observed by the Apaches. Nevertheless, the garrison was summoned and disposed to the best advan tage. All fires were extinguished, and all lights shrouded from observation. In the course of a few minutes seven or eight more lights made their appearance, and seemed to be carried by persons walking at a rapid pace. Some of them approached within, what I considered, two hun dred yards of the station, and at one time I felt greatly inclined to try the effect of a chance shot from ray rifle, but gave up the idea from the conviction that no Apache would carry a torch within that distance, and maintain an erect position, while my fire might expose the persons of my men and draw a more effective return. After an hour and a half of anxious watch, the lights gradually united and faded away toward the east. It was not until more than a year had elapsed that I LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 157 learned the meaning of this occurrence. A celebrated leading man of the Mescalero Apaches, named Gian-nah- tah, or " Always Ready," gave the desired information, which precisely tallied with succeeding events. He said that, as the Apaches are a dispersed and perpetually wandering race, it is impossible for one detachment to know where others might be at any time; but that when a great body of them was needed for any joint under taking they made smoke signals of a certain character by day, and signals of fire by night. That, on the occa sion of which I write, the nature of the country prohibited fire signals from being seen except from very short dis tances, and runners were hurried through the district, bearing torches, which would indicate that the aid of all within sight was required. In fine, it was the "speed, Malise, speed," of the Apache. This explanation will account for what followed. Between three and four o'clock A. M., just after the lights had disappeared, the sound of horses advancing at a fast gallop was heard approaching the station. The sentinel challenged, and was immediately answered with the round Saxon response, "Friends." It proved to be two of my own company, who had been sent back by Capt. Roberts with the information that there was abund ance of water at Dragoon Springs, and instruction to join him with the train without delay. The poor fellows had ridden twenty-eight miles through that terrible storm, and in the heart of a country swarming with hostile and ever vigilant savages. Two days subsequently they had a splendid opportunity to test their gallantry, and most nobly did they respond to the appeal. In obedience to order, we set forward before daylight to join Captain Roberts, and reached Dragoon Springs, without inci dent, at three o'clock p. M. A long and fatiguing march 158 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. of forty miles had to be made before reaching Apache Pass, where the next water was to be had, and as we were in doubt as to the quantity, it was again agreed that I should remain at Dragoon Springs until next morning, while Capt. Koberts was to push ahead with his infantry and seven of my company, leaving the train under my charge. At half-past five o'clock P. M. he set out, and the strictest vigilance was maintained in camp the whole night. By daylight next morning we were again in the saddle, and the train duly straightened out for the long and dreary march. Had we not been en cumbered with wagons my cavalry could have made the distance easily in seven hours; but we were compelled to keep pace with those indispensable transports of food, ammunition, clothing and medicine. A little before dark we arrived at Ewell's Station, fifteen miles west of the pass, and I determined to park the train, as the mules had almost given out, and were quite unable to accom plish the remainder of the march without some rest. Just as I had come to this conclusion we perceived sev eral riders coming toward us with all speed, and they soon proved to be the detachment of my company which had been detailed to act with Capt. Eoberts. Two of them were mounted behind two others, and all had evi dently ridden hard. Sergeant Mitchell approached, and saluting, said: "Capt. Roberts has been attacked in Apache Pass by a very large body of Indians. We fought them for six hours, and finally compelled them to run. Capt. Eoberts then directed us to come back through the pass, and report to you with orders to park the train and take every precaution for its safety. He will join you to-night. On leaving the pass we were pursued by over fifty well armed and mounted Apaches, and we lost three horses, killed under us, and that one LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 159 pointing to a splendid gray is mortally wounded. Ser geant Maynard, now present, has his right arm fractured at the elbow, with a rifle ball, and John Teal we believe to be killed, as we saw him cut off by a band of fifteen or twenty savages, while we were unable to render him any assistance." The wagons were ordered to be parked; every man was supplied with ammunition and posted to the best advantage; proper attention was paid to my wounded sergeant, and the camp arranged in such a manner as to insure a warm reception to a large body of savages. We remained on the qui vive until one o'clock A. M., when to my extreme surprise and sincere gratification we were joined by John Teal, who was supposed to have been killed. He brought with him his saddle, blanket, sabre and pistols, having lost his horse and spurs. His narra tive is so full of interest, and so well illustrates a phase in Apache character, that it is worth recording. "Soon after we left the pass," said he, "we opened upon a sort of hollow plain or vale, about a mile wide, across which we dashed with speed. I was about two hundred yards in the rear, and presently a body of about fifteen Indians got between me and my companions. I turned my horse's head southward and coursed along the plain, lengthwise, in the hope of outrunning them, but my horse had been too sorely tested, and could not get away. They came up and commenced firing, one ball passing through the body of my horse, just forward of his hind quarters. It was then about dark, and I imme diately dismounted, determined to fight it out to the bit ter end. My horse fell, and as I approached him, he began to lick my hands. I then swore to kill at least one Apache. Lying down behind the body of my dying animal, I opened fire upon them with my carbine, which 160 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. being a breech-loader, enabled me to keep up a lively fusillade. This repeated fire seemed to confuse the sav ages, and instead of advancing with a rush, they com menced to circle round me, firing occasional shots in my direction. They knew that I also had a six-shooter and a sabre, and seemed unwilling to try close quarters. In this way the fight continued for over an hour, when I got a good chance at a prominent Indian and slipped a carbine ball into his breast. He must have been a man of some note, because soon after that they seemed to get away from me, and I could hear their voices growing fainter in the distance. I thought this a good time to make tracks, and divesting myself of my spurs, I took the saddle, bridle and blanket from my dead horse and started for camp. I have walked eight miles since then/' It is needless to add how gratified I was to receive this brave and loyal soldier again, and find him free from wound or scar. We subsequently ascertained that the man he shot was no less an individual than the celebrated Mangas Colorado, but, I regret to .add, the rascal sur vived his wound to cause us more trouble. About an hour after Teal had come in, I was joined by Capt. Koberts with thirty men, and then got a full description of the fight. I omitted to mention that two twelve-pounder mountain howitzers were with our little force, and to these guns the victory is probably attrib utable. It seems that about one hundred and thirty or forty miners had located themselves at the Pino Alto gold mines, or the same mines mentioned in a former portion of this work as the scene where Mr. Hay and his family were attacked and their cattle stolen by the Apaches, and also where Delgadito got badly scored by Wells. This was the great stronghold of Mangas and his band, and finding himself unable to dislodge the un- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 161 welcome intruders without help, he had dispatched mes sengers to Cheis, the principal warrior of the Chiricahui Apaches, to assist him in expelling the miners. Cheis was too much occupied by the advancing column of American troops to give heed to this call, and failed to attend. Such want of faith was inexplicable to Mangas, who knew nothing of our approach, and at the head of two hundred warriors he visited Cheis, to inquire the reason for his apparent defection from the Apache cause. In reply Cheis took Mangas to the top of the Chiricahui and showed him the dust made by our advance guard, and told him that it was his first duty to defend himself, and that if Mangas would join in the affair, they could whip the "white eyes," and make themselves masters of the spoil. This arrangement was immediately agreed to by Mangas, and their united forces, amounting to nearly seven hundred warriors, so disposed as to take Roberts by surprise and insure his defeat. But "the best laid plans of men and mice, aft gang aglee," and these finely fixed schemes were doomed to be terribly overthrown. Roberts, entirely unsuspecting any attack, entered the pass with the ordinary precautions. He had penetrated two-thirds of the way, when from both sides of that battlemented gorge a fearful rain of fire and lead was poured upon his troops, within a range of from thirty to eighty yards. On either hand the rocks afforded nat ural and almost unassailable defenses. Every tree con cealed an armed warrior, and each warrior boasted his rifle, six-shooter and knife. A better armed host could scarcely be imagined. From behind every species of shelter came the angry and hissing missiles, and not a soul to be seen. Quickly, vigorously, and bravely did his men respond, but to what effect? They were ex pending ammunition to no purpose; their foes were in- 162 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. visible; there was no way to escalade those impregnable natural fortresses; the howitzers were useless, and the men doubtful how to attack the foe. In such strait, Roberts determined to fall back, reform and renew the contest. The orders were given and obeyed with per fect discipline. Beaching the entrance to the pass the troops were reorganized, skirmishers were thrown out over the hills so as to command the road; the howitzers were loaded, and belched forth their shells whenever found necessary. In this manner the troops again marched forward. Water was indispensable for the con tinuance of life. Unless they could reach the springs they must perish. A march of forty miles under an Arizonian sun, and over wide alkaline plains, with their blinding dust and thirst-provoking effects, had already been effected, and it would be impossible to march back again without serious loss of life, and untold suffering, without taking into account the seeming disgrace of being defeated by seven times their force of Apaches. What would it avail those brave men to know that the Indians were as well armed as they; that they possessed all the advantages; that they outnumbered them seven to one, when the outside and carping world would be so ready to taunt them with defeat, and adduce so many specious reasons why they should have annihilated the savages ? Forward, steadily forward, under a continuous and galling fire, did those gallant companies advance until they reached the old station house in the pass, about six hundred yards from the springs. The house was built of stone, and afforded ample shelter; but still they had no water, and eighteen hours, with a march of forty miles, including six hours of sharp fighting, had been passed without a drop. Men and officers were faint, worn-out LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 163 with fatigue, want of sleep, and intense privation and excitement; still Roberts urged them on, and led the way. His person was always the most exposed; his voice ever cheering and encouraging. Immediately com manding the springs are two hills, both high and diffi cult of ascent. One is to the east, and the other over looks them from the south. On these heights the Apaches had built rude but efficient breastworks by piling rocks one upon the other so as to form crenelle holes between the interstices. From these fortifications they kept up a rapid and scathing fire, which could not be returned with effect by musketry from three to four hundred feet below. The howitzers were got into position, but one of them was so badly managed that the gunners were brought immediately under the fire from the hills with out being able to make even a decent response. In a few moments it was overturned by some unaccountable piece of stupidity, and the artillerists driven off by the sharp fire of the savages. At that juncture, Sergeant Mitchell with his six associates of my company, made a rush to bring off the howitzer and place it in a better position. Upon reaching the guns, they determined not to turn it down hill, but up, so as to keep their fronts to the fire. While performing this gallant act, they were assailed with a storm of balls, but escaped untouched; after having righted the gun, brought it away, and placed it in a position best calculated to perform effect ive service. So soon as this feat had been happily ac complished, the exact range was obtained and shell after shell hurled upon the hills, bursting just when they should. The Apaches, wholly unused to such formida ble engines, precipitately abandoned their rock works and fled in all directions. It was nearly night. To re main under those death-dealing heights during the night, 164 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. when camp-fires would afford trie enemy the best kind of advantage, was not true policy, and Capt. Roberts ordered each man to take a drink from the precious and hardly-earned springs, and fill his canteen, after which the troops retired within the shelter afforded by the stone station house, the proper guards and pickets being posted. In this fight Roberts had two men killed and three wounded, and I afterwards learned from a prominent Apache who Was present in the engagement, that sixty- three warriors were killed outright by the shells, while only three perished from musketry fire. He added :< We would have done well enough if you had not fired wagons at us." The howitzers being on wheels, were deemed a species of wagon by the Apaches, wholly in experienced in that sort of warfare. Capt. Roberts suffered his men to recruit their wasted energies with supper, and then taking one-half his com pany, the remainder being left under command of Lieut. Thompson, marched back to Swell's Station, fifteen miles, to assure the safety of the train under my com mand, and escort it through the pass. As before stated, he reached my camp a little after two o'clock A.M., where the men rested until five, when the march toward the pass was resumed. Several alarms were given before his arrival, and we heard the Apaches careering around us; but they made no attack, and kept out of sight. At five o'clock A.M., the train was straightened out with half my effective cavalry force three hundred yards in the advance, and the other half about as far in the rear, while the wagons were flanked on either side by the in fantry. In this order we entered that most formidable of gorges, when the bugles blew a halt. A considerable body of the infantry were then thrown out on either side LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 165 as skirmishers, with a small reserve as the rallying point, while the cavalry were ordered to guard the train, and make occasional dashes into the side canons. " Up hill and down dale" went the skirmishers, plunging into dark and forbidding denies, and climbing steep, rocky and difficult acclivities, while the cavalry made frequent sorties from the main body to the distance of several hundred yards. Being without a subaltern, Gen. Carle- ton had assigned Lieut. Muller, of the First Cavalry California Volunteers, to service with my command. This officer soon after gave sufficient proof of his gal lantry and zeal, for which I now gratefully return thanks. In this manner we progressed through that great stronghold of the Apaches and dangerous defile, until we joined the detachment under Lieut. Thompson, at the stone station house, where we quartered for the re mainder of that day. Let it be borne in mind that Capt. Roberts' company of Californian Infantry had marched forty miles without food or water, had fought for six hours with desperation against six times their numbers of splendidly armed Apaches, ensconced behind their own natural ramparts, and with every possible advantage in their favor; had driven that force before them, occu pied their defiles, taken their strongholds, and, after only one draught of water and a hasty meal, had made another march of thirty miles, almost absolutely with out rest. I doubt much if any record exists to show where infantry have made a march of seventy miles, fought one terrible battle of six hours' duration, and achieved a decided victory under such circumstances. The shrill fife, the rattling drum and the mellow bu gles sounded the reveille before dawn of the next day. The camp-fires were soon throwing up their lively jets of flame and smoke, while the grateful odors of frying 8* 166 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. bacon and browning flap-jacks saluted the appreciative nostrils of the hungry troops. But we had no water, and without water we could have no coffee, that most coveted of all rations. There was reason to believe that the Apaches intended to put our metal to another trial. They had again occupied the heights above the springs, and also the water sources, which were thickly sheltered by trees and willow underbrush. Roberts again made preparations to dislodge the savages, and ordered his howitzers into the most favorable positions. Just then I saluted him, and said, " Captain, you have done your share of this fight; I now respectfully ask for my chance. If you will throw your shells on the heights above the springs, I will charge the latter with my men, and clean out the Apaches in a very few moments. I certainly think this concession due me." Roberts reflected a few moments, and replied " I am truly sorry that your wish cannot be granted. Yours is the only cavalry I have, and their safety is indispensable to ours. We are going to the San Simon river, where I am ordered to establish a depot and await the arrival of other troops with supplies. You are to take back this train for those supplies, and you will have enough to do in your proper turn. I cannot, under the circumstances, grant your request/ 3 To this I replied: "Your objections appear cogent; but I cannot perceive why all these things cannot be ac complished, and still permit my men, who are burning with anxiety, to charge those springs and disperse that wretched horde of savages. They are already cowed, and will immediately flee before a vigorous assault." Capt. Roberts replied: "You have had my answer, Captain, and it should be enough. I do not intend to jeopard my own meri, but will shell the heights and LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 167 springs, and effect a bloodless victory, in so far as we are concerned/' After this rebuff I could make no further personal ap peal, but instructed Lieut. Muller to beseech Capt. Kob- erts, and, if possible, induce him to change his mind. Muller argued for half an hour, until Koberts told him either to obey or be placed under arrest. This ended the colloquy. The howitzers then opened fire the shells burst splendidly; large numbers of Apaches were ob served to decamp from the heights in the most hurried manner; the springs also underwent a similar cleaning, and in less than twenty minutes the troops were permit ted to advance and fill their canteens, while my cavalry, without waiting further orders, made a rush after the retreating savages until the rapid rise and terribly broken nature of the ground checked their career. The hill sides were covered with fleeing Apaches, who seemed imbued with supernatural powers of locomotion. Up wards they sped with the celerity of Alpine goats, until they disappeared behind the crests of tall mountains and rugged hills. In peace and quiet we partook of the precious fountain. Our horses and mules, which had not tasted water for forty-eight hours, and were nearly famished from so dusty a road and so long a journey under the hottest of suns, drank as if they would never be satisfied. An hour later we moved through the pass, entered upon the wide plain which separates it from the San Simon river, and reached our camp on that creek, without further trouble, about four o'clock p. M. CHAPTEK XIV. Return from the San Simon. Avoid Apache Pass. Reasons for so Doing. Night Marching. Apaches show Themselves. Rattlesnakes. Ojo de los Her- manos. San Pedro Again. Return through Apache Pass. Meet thirteen Dead Americans. Mangas Colorado's Deceit. How the Americans were Killed. Apache Cunning and Calculation. Bury the Dead. How Mangas was Cured of his Wound. Death of Mangas Colorado. The Genius and Abilities of Mangas. Apache Democracy. Extent of the Ravages of Mangas Colorado. BUT short breathing space was afforded me at the San Simon. On the morning of the third day after our ar rival, and the trying tests to which we had been sub jected, I received orders from Capt. Roberts to escort the train of twenty-six wagons back to the San Pedro, in order to furnish the required transportation for the provision, ammunition, clothing and other supplies of the column. For this duty I was assigned fourteen of my troopers, and seven men of Roberts' company. The intervening country had been well examined through fine field glasses, and on two occasions a thorough re- connissance had been made by the cavalry, which showed that a very excellent passage existed to the north of the Chiricahui range, over nearly a level plain, and that the distance would be only some seven miles longer. This route, with the approbation of Capt. Roberts, was at once selected for our return, and for the following rea sons : The safety of our train was of the very first import ance, as upon it depended the success of the unprece dented march the " Column from California" was then attempting. In the next place, if the Apaches had given LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 169 us such a strong and determined fight when we mustered one hundred and twenty-nine men and two mountain howitzers, what great chance would I have of safely con ducting a train of twenty-six wagons with only twenty- one men, and without artillery, through such a terrific stronghold? In the third place, nature provided a pas sage nearly as short, much less laborious for men and an imals, well supplied with water, wood and grass, and by its open character, affording the very best field for the operations of cavalry, and the widest range for our splendid breech-loading weapons of long reach. It was not a question whether we should again fight the Indians, but whether we could forward the main object of the expedition. Indeed, strict orders had been given to re frain from Indian broils as much as possible, to suffer some wrong rather than divert our time and attention from the great purpose contemplated, which was to lib erate Arizona from Confederate rule and effect a junction with Gen. Canby as soon as possible. Had we been exclusively on an Indian campaign, other means would have been adopted. Having taken a final survey, I started in the evening just after sundown, to prevent the Apaches from seeing the dust raised by the column, and directed our course over the open plain, north of the Chiricahui range, and between it and the mountains from which it is divided some four miles by an open and elevated piece of clear land, without trees or rocks, and thickly covered with the finest grama grass. We traveled all night with the cavalry covering the front and rear, and the seven infan trymen sleeping in the empty wagons, with their weap ons loaded and ready at a moment's warning. Every little while the cavalry were required to patrol the length of the column, to ward off any sudden and unforeseen 170 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. attack. The infantry were allowed to sleep, in order that they might be fresh to keep guard throughout the day. In this manner we progressed until five A. M., next day, when I ordered a halt, had the wagons handsomely corralled nearly in a circle, with the animals and men all inside, except the guard, and the camp properly pre pared against surprise. We were then exactly north of the Chiricahui mountains, and south of another range, each being about two miles distant. I could distinctly see large numbers of Apaches riding furiously up and down the steeps of those heights, and sometimes advanc ing on the plain, as if to attack. But experience had taught them that our carbines and Minnie rifles were deadly at nearly a mile of distance, and they did not ap proach within their reach. Our horses were tied to the picket rope which extended across the open end of the corral, and covered by a sufficient guard. Finding that the Apaches did not care to make an onslaught, the cav alry and teamsters, all of whom were well armed, re tired to rest, after partaking of a hearty meal. Next evening, at dark, we again hitched up and pursued our journey as before. I was in the. advance with Sergeant Loring, when our horses suddenly jumped one side and our ears were greeted by the spiteful warning of a rattle snake, coiled up directly in our path. To avoid this ma lignant reptile the train diverged about twenty yards from the road, and after a little while entered it again. This sort of thing occurred many times during the night, until we again struck the regular highway nearly due west of Apache Pass. Our next halt was made six miles from Swell's Station, and we had come seventy miles in two nights. That day we saw no Indians, although the same precautions were adopted as if we were surrounded by large numbers. Our next march was to the Ojo de LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 171 los Hermanos, or the ' ' Brothers' Springs," so as to avoid stopping to water at Dragoon Springs, which were two miles up a deep and dangerous canon, where the enemy would possess every possible advantage, and where the animals would have to be led to water a mile or more from the wagons, with the delightful prospect of not finding anything like a sufficiency. In due course of time, we regained the San Pedro river, where Gen. Carleton had arrived with a consider able body of troops. I turned over my train, and was ordered to advance once more with head-quarters. Apache Pass was again entered and traversed; but it seemed as if no Indian had ever awakened its echoes with his war-whoop as if it had ever been the abode of peace and silence. I rode beside Dr. McNulty for a while, and described to him the terrible conflict which had taken place there only eight days previous. That true soldier and soldiers' friend frequently exclaimed "By George, I wish I had been here!" "What splendid natural breastworks are these, old fellow!" a peculiar expression of his "I am glad you came out of it all right!" Next day we emerged from the pass without molestation, or seeing an Indian sign; but, instead of directing our course toward the San Simon, diverged by another route toward the Cienega, a flat, marshy place, at the foot of the next easterly range of mountains, of which Stein's Peak is the most prominent. The San Simon creek, as it is called, sinks about a mile south of the station bearing that name, and undoubtedly fur nishes the supply of water which is to be had at the Cienega, located on the same plain, and about eight miles south of the spot where the creek disappears. "We had progressed about two miles beyond the pass, when we suddenly came upon the bodies of thirteen 172 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. persons, pierced in many places with bullet and arrow holes, and some with the arrows still sticking, driven deeply into their frames. After some examination, the verdict was that they were the bodies of white men killed by the Apaches but a short time before. This conclu sion proved correct, as was afterward ascertained beyond all doubt, and as their destruction was compassed by a trick peculiarly illustrative of Apache character, I will relate it in extenso. My readers will bear in mind the place described as Santa Rita del Cobre, where the Boundary Commission remained for several months, where Inez G-onzales and the two Mexican boys were rescued from captivity, where Delgadito made his attack upon Mr. Hay, and where he got handsomely seamed by Wells. The gold mines worked by Mr. Hay at that period, twelve years prior, had proved to be very rich, and attracted many bold adven turers, among whom were a number of celebrated Indian fighters, who had passed years upon our frontiers, and were universally dreaded by all the wild Indian tribes of Arizona and New Mexico. In a short time the mining population at that point amounted to something like two hundred, of whom one hundred and fifty were well armed, fearless and experienced men. The presence of such a party was far from pleasing to Mangas Colorado and his band, as they claimed exclusive proprietorship to that whole region, which was their main fastness. They also regarded the miners as the legitimate succes sors of the Boundary Commission, with whom they had. parted in deadly enmity after a short season of simulated friendship. Mangas made many skillful efforts to dis lodge the miners, and divert their attention from the Copper Mines, but without effect. He privately visited some of the more prominent among them, and profess- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 173 ing the most disinterested friendship, offered to show them where gold was far more abundant and could be obtained with less labor, accompanying his promises with something like the following style of inducement : "You good man. You stay here long time and never hurt Apache. You want the 'yellow iron;' I know where plenty is. Suppose you go with me, I show you; but tell no one else. Mangas your friend, he want to do you good. You like 'yellow iron' good! Me no want ' yellow iron/ Him no good for me can no eat, can no drink, can no keepee out cold. Come, I show you." For a while each person so approached kept this offer to himself, but after a time they "began to compare notes, and found that Mangas had made like promises to each, under the ban of secrecy and the pretense of exclusive personal friendship. * Those who at first believed the old rascal, at once comprehended that it was a trap set to separate and sacrifice the bolder and leading men by gaining their confidence and killing them in detail, while their fates would remain unknown to those left behind. The next time, after this eclair cissement, that Mangas visited that camp, he was tied to a tree and administered a dose of "strap oil," well applied by lusty arms. His vengeance was more keenly aroused by this deserved treatment, and from that time forth every sort of annoy ance was put into operation against the miners. They were shot at from the cover of trees and rocks, their cat tle and horses were driven off, their supply trains robbed and destroyed, and themselves reduced to want. But Mangas desired their utter extirpation. He wanted their blood; he was anxious for their annihilation, and feeling himself unable to cope with them single handed, he dispatched emissaries to Cheis, the most famed warrior of the Chiricahui tribe, to come and help him oust the Americans. 174 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. Just at that time news was received by Clieis that the Americans were advancing from the west, and were about to overrun Ipis country. "Charity begins at home/' was the motto of that prominent Apache, and, instead of going to the relief of Mangas, notified him of the newly threatened invasion, and asked his assistance, promising to help Mangas, in his turn. The proffer was accepted, and Mangas joined Cheis at the Apache Pass with two hundred warriors, which accounts for the large force against which Koberts had to contend in that formidable gorge. While these united forces were occupying Apache Pass, waiting our arrival, they descried a small band of Americans approaching from the east, across the wide plain intervening between that place and the Cienega, and determined to cut it off. Those wily Indians soon recognized in the new-comers a small, but well armed, party of the hardy and experienced miners from the Santa Rita del Cobre, and knew that such men were al ways on their guard and prepared to defend their lives with the greatest courage and determination. They also knew that they would be specially on the qui vive after having entered the pass, and that any attack upon them would probably result in the loss of several of their war riors. How to compass their ends and obviate this last possibility, became the chief objects of their attention. Two miles east of the pass, right in the clear and unob structed plain, there is a gully, formed by the washing of heavy rains through a porous and yielding soil. This gully is from six to eight feet deep, a quarter of a mile long, three or four yards wide, and cannot be seen from horseback until the rider is within fifty yards of the spot. "With consummate cunning a large body of the Apaches ensconced themselves in this gully, knowing that the LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 175 travelers would be somewhat off their guard in an open plain, apparently without place of concealment, and awaited the approach of their victims. The scheme proved eminently successful. Wholly unapprehensive of a danger they could not see and had no reason to sus pect, "the hardy miners rode forward with their rifles resting in the slings across their saddle bows, their pis tols in scabbards, and their whole attention absorbed in the pass they were about to enter. "When they had ar rived within forty yards of the gully or ditch, a terrific and simultaneous fire was opened upon them by the con cealed Indians, which killed one-half their number out right, and sent the remainder wounded and panic stricken to seek safety in flight. They were immediately pursued and massacred to a man. Theirs were the bodies discovered by us soon after emerging from Apache Pass, and although we grieved over their death, as brave men grieve for each other, the circumstance taught us another and most instructive lesson in Apache character, and the wondrously shrewd calculations made by those people when determined to effect a desired object. I subsequently learned that the victims had with them a considerable sum in gold dust, nearly fifty thousand dollars' worth, all of which fell into the hands of their slayers, who had become well acquainted with its value. Their bodies were as decently interred as circumstances would permit, after which we moved forward toward the Cienega, in mournful and somewhat vindictive mood. Mangas Colorado returned with his diminished band to the Pino Alto country after his disastrous defeat in Apache Pass, but he returned with a carbine ball in his chest, fired by John Teal, whose gallant conduct has al ready been described. It was owing to this chance shot that the Apaches abandoned their attack upon Teal, in 176 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. order to give succor to so prominent a man as Mangas. He was carefully conveyed to Janos, in Chihuahua, where he received the enforced attendance and aid of a Mexican physician, who happened to be in that place at the time. It was a case of the practice of surgery under unique circumstances. If the patient survived, well and good; he would return to his native wilds to again renew his fearful devastations; but if he died, the doctor and all the inhabitants were assured they should visit the spirit land with him. The ball was extracted, Mangas recov ered, an'd the people were saved; but his was a short lease of life, for he was soon afterward captured by Capt. E. D. Shirland, of the First California Volunteer Cav alry, and killed while attempting to effect his escape from the guard house. In this manner perished Mangas Colorado, the greatest and most talented Apache Indian of the nineteenth century. In truth, he was a wonder ful man. His sagacious counsels partook more of the character of wide and enlarged statesmanship than those of any other Indian of modern times. His subtle and comprehensive intellect enrolled and united the three principal tribes of Arizona and New Mexico in one com mon cause. He found means to collect and keep to gether, for weeks at a time, large bodies of savages, such as none of, his predecessors could assemble and feed. He quieted and allayed all jealousies and disagreements between different branches of the great Apache family, and taught them to comprehend the value of unity and collective strength. Although never remarkable for per sonal prowess and courage, he knew how to evoke those qualities in others, and appropriate the credit to himself. Crafty and skilled in human nature, he laid plans and devised schemes remarkable for their shrewdness of con ception and success in execution. In council he was the LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 177 last to speak, in action lie was the last to come on the field, and the first to leave if defeated; yet he had the reputation among all his people of being the wisest and bravest. That he was the wisest has never been denied; that he was the bravest has never been proved. But, take him for all in all, he exercised an influence never equaled by any savage of our time, when we take into consideration the fact that the Apaches acknowledge no chiefs, and obey no orders from any source. They con stitute a pure democracy, in which every man is the equal of every other. Each is sovereign inliis own right as a warrior, and disclaims all allegiance. But this sub ject will be treated at length in another portion of this work. The life of Mangas Colorado, if it could be ascertained, would be a tissue of the most extensive and afflicting revelationSj the most atrocious cruelties, the most vin dictive revenges, and widespread injuries ever perpetra ted by an American Indian. "We read with sensations of horror the dreadful massacre at Schenectady, the bloody deeds at Wyoming, the cruelties of Proctor's savage allies, and others of like character; but they sink into absolute insignificance beside the acts of Mangas Colorado, running through a series of fifty years, for Mangas was fully seventy when sent to his last account. The northern portions of Chihuahua and Sonora, large tracts of Durango, the whole of Arizona, and a very con siderable part of New Mexico, were laid waste, ravished, destroyed by this man and his followers. A strip of country twice as large as all California was rendered al most houseless, unproductive, uninhabitable by his active and uncompromising hostility. Large and flourishing towns were depopulated and ruined. Vast ranches, such as that of Barbacomori and San Bernardino, once teem- 178 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. ing with wealth and immense herds of cattle, horses and mules, were turned into waste places, and restored to their pristine solitudes. The name of Mangas Colorado was the tocsin of terror and dismay throughout a vast region of country, whose inhabitants existed by his suf ferance under penalty of supplying him with the requisite arms and ammunition for his many and terrible raids. He combined many attributes of real greatness with the ferocity and brutality of the most savage savage. The names of his victims, by actual slaughter or by captivity, would fill a volume, and the relation of his deeds through out a long and merciless life would put to shame the records of the "Newgate Calendar." I dismiss him with disgust and loathing, not unmingled with some degree of respect for his abilities. CHAPTER XY. Apache Signals. Mode of Marching through Arizona and New Mexico. Apache Watchfulness and Caution. The Gila Country. Grama Grass. The In. formation Indispensable for a Successful Campaign against Apaches. The Smoke Columns. Pressed Grass. Bent and Broken Twigs. Blazed Trees. Mounted Parties. The Stone Signals. Kit Carson. Comparison between White Men's and Apache Philosophy. The Present Condition of Apache Armament. Their Knowledge of Colors, and the Use they make of It. Their Hatred of all Other Races. Proofs of their Good Breeding. Our Indian Policy Discussed. Apache Want of Sympathy. How they Obtain their Guns and Ammunition. Extent of their Ravages in North ern Mexico. Monuments of Apache Massacres in Arizona. Mines of Arizona. THE experiences of several years liad not been ignored. The time which had elapsed between my first and second appearance upon the stage of Indian action had given me opportunity to reflect upon many events, and study their causes, characters, and mechanism of production. Keposing in the midst of civilized security, and alto gether freed from the excitement of unseen, deadly perils to which life m the Apache countries is invariably sub ject, I was enabled to draw more correct conclusions than could have been arrived at on the ground, while compelled to regard personal safety as the first necessity. In this calm and undisturbed survey of the field many circumstances were accounted for which at the time ap peared more the result of untoward accident than of well laid schemes founded upon a shrewd knowledge of natural instincts. The pyramidal columns of smoke, so often seen to ascend from mountain heights, had ap peared to me as merely warnings of our presence in the 180 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. country; the apparently casual turning over of a stone, close to the highway, never attracted attention; the breaking of a few insignificant branches in a forest did not seem to be more than accidental occurrences; bat closer investigation led me to believe that all these things, and many more, had their peculiar significance; that they were neither more nor less than lithographic notices by which one party could know the force of an other the direction taken the extent and nature of the danger which threatened, and impart the summons for a gathering. That these surmises were correct every old Indian fighter knows; but the responsibilities of my po sition determined me to make a study of points so essen tial to a successful campaign, and the safety of my com mand. Nevertheless, it will be found that a party, even though it be a small one, which is well armed; which never relaxes its vigilance ; which selects clear, open ground for camping; which invariably throws out an ad vanced guard, and keeps its weapons always ready for use at a moment's warning, can move with safety through all portions of Arizona and New Mexico; while ten times their number, disregarding these precautions, are sure to be attacked, and if attacked about as certain to be defeated with loss. Let it be again distinctly impressed upon my readers, that the Apache never attacks unless fully convinced of an easy victory. They will watch for days, scanning your every movement, observing your every act; taking exact note of your party and all its belongings. Let no one suppose that these assaults are made upon the spur of the moment by bands accidentally encountered. Far from it; they are almost invariably the results of long watching patient waiting careful and rigorous observation, and anxious counsel. Throughout nearly the whole of Arizona the traveler LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 181 encounters a succession of high mountain ridges, run ning northwest and southeast, overlooking intermediate, unwooded and unconcealed plains, which are from fif teen to forty miles from ridge to ridge. The sierras are not continuous or united, but occur in isolated ranges of from twenty to fifty miles in extent, with smooth and clear prairie lands between them. These intervals ex tend from one to five miles; but as they afford neither wood nor water, are never traveled except by very small parties, which can move quickly and are too weak to risk the dangerous mountain passes and canons. But even this cannot be effected in some places without making a detour of many miles from the direct road, and it is often indispensable to run all risks rather than lose time, or suffer the inconveniences of such a round-about and wretchedly provided march, where one is likely to perish from the want of w^ater. The land along the Gila is excessively alkaline and un productive in its present condition, although in many places the willow, cotton-wood and mesquit flourish lux uriantly. In wet weather the soil becomes a soft, deep and tenacious muck, which almost wholly impedes wagon travel, and during the dry season the roads are so deeply covered with a fine, almost impassable and light dust, that every footfall throws up clouds of it yards above the traveler's head, completely shutting out from sight all objects more than three yards distant. To such an ex tent does this prevail in some localities, that I have been unable to distinguish the man or his horse at my side, and within reach of my arm, on a fine moonlight night. In the immediate neighborhood of Tucson, on the ta ble land outside of its cultivated fields, the traveler, for the first time, meets with the far-famed grama grass, but on descending from this mesa does not again come in 9 182 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. contact with it until he reaches Dragoon Springs. This grama grass is beyond all comparison the most nutricious herbage ever cropped by quadrupeds. It is much heav ier, contains more saccharine in connection with more farinaceous and strength-giving aliment than any other grass known. At least such is my experience, and that of all other men who have had occasion to test its virtues and time to pronounce upon its merits. I .give it the very first rank among all sorts of hay, believing it to be superior to clover, timothy, alfalfa, or all three to gether. Although I have never been able to observe any seed upon this grass, it seems to combine the qualities of grain and hay in the greatest perfection. Horses will live and do well upon it, provided they can obtain it regularly, while doing active cavalry duty, without other feed; but they must have it, as stated, regularly in abundance, and be permitted to crop it from native pas tures. It bears no flower, exhibits no seed, but seems to reproduce itself from the roots by the shooting up of young, green and vigorous spires, which are at first in closed within the sheaths of their old and dried-up pre decessors, and by their growth split and cast them to earth, and occupy their places. I am not sufficiently versed in botany to give my read ers a more elaborate and scientific account of this superb grass, and if I were, it would not be my desire in a work of this character to inflict upon the general reader a se ries of double-barreled Greek terms which not one in a thousand could understand, and, understanding, would care about. The object is to convey some tolerable idea of that great aliment for herbivorous animals upon which the Apache races rely for the support of their horses, and which, by its singularly strength-giving properties, is capable of enabling their ponies to perform extraordi nary feats of endurance. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 183 From Dragoon Pass eastward the whole of the vast region inhabited by the Apaches is covered with this species of grass, which is more or less thick and nourish ing, according to circumstances, but always in sufficient abundance to afford all the nutriment required. It is this plentiful distribution of the most strengthening grass in the world which enables the Apache to maintain his herds, make his extraordinary marches, and inflict wide-spread depredations. A knowledge of signals, whether smokes or fires, or bent twigs and pressed grass, or of turned stones, to gether with the localities of water sources, the different passes through the sierras, the nature and quantity of the fodder to be had in certain districts, the capacity to distinguish tracks and state with certainty by whom made, and how long before, are absolutely indispensable to a successful campaign among those savages. To the acquirement of all these points I devoted much atten tion, and, without egotism, can claim such success as to privilege me in giving the result of my researches as worthy of confidence. Smokes are of various kinds, each one significant of a particular object. A sudden puff, rising into a graceful column from the mountain heights, and almost as sud denly losing its identity by dissolving into the rarified atmosphere of those heights, simply indicates the pres ence of a strange party upon the plains below; but if those columns are rapidly multiplied and repeated, they serve as a warning to show that the travelers are well armed and numerous. If a steady smoke is. maintained for some time, the object is to collect the scattered bands of savages at some designated point, with hostile inten tion, should it be practicable. These signals are made at night, in the same order, by the use of fires, which 184 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. being kindled, are either alternately exposed and shrouded from view, or suffered to burn steadily, as oc casion may require. All travelers in Arizona and New Mexico are acquainted with the fact that if the grass be pressed down in a certain direction during the dry sea son, it will retain the impress and grow daily more and more yellow until the rainy season imparts new life and restores it to pristine vigor and greenness. The Apaches are so well versed in this style of signalizing that they can tell you, by the appearance of the grass, how many days have elapsed since it was trodden upon, whether the party consisted of Indians or whites, about how many there were, and, if Indians, to what particular tribe they belonged. In order to define these points, they select some well marked footstep, for which they hunt with avidity, and gently pressing down the trodden grass so as not to disturb surrounding herbage, they very care fully examine the print. The difference between the crushing heel of a white man's boot or shoe, and the light imprint left by an Indian's moccasin, is too strik ing to admit of doubt, while the different styles of moc casin used by the several divisions of the Apache tribes are well known among them. The time which has elapsed since the passage of the party is determined by discoloration of the herbage and breaking off a few spires to ascertain the approximate amount of natural juice still left in the crushed grass. Numbers are arrived at by the multiplicity of tracks. Signalizing by bent twigs, broken branches and blazed trees, is too well known to deserve special mention here. In these respects the Apaches do not differ from other Indian tribes of this continent. If a mounted party has been on the road, their num bers, quality and time of passage are determined with LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 185 exactitude, as well as the precise sex and species of the animals ridden. The moment such a trail is fallen in with, they follow it eagerly, having nothing else to do, until they find some of the dung, which is immediately broken open, and from its moisture and other properties, the date of travel is arrived at nearly to a certainty, while the constituents almost invariably declare the re gion from which the party came. This last point de pends upon whether the dung is composed of grama grass, barley and grass, corn, bunch grass, buffalo grass, sacaton, or any of the well known grasses of the coun try, for as they are chiefly produced in different districts, the fact of their presence in the dung shows precisely from what district the animal last came. When barley is discovered the Apaches have reason to believe that Americans have been over the route, and when maize is found they feel confident that the travelers were either Mexicans or people from that country. These remarks apply only to unshod horses, for iron prints speak for themselves. The difference in sexes is easily told by the attitude each assumes while urinating the male stretch ing himself and ejecting his urine forward of his hind feet, while the female ejects to the rear of the hind prints. Signalizing by stones is much more difficult to com prehend, and very few have ever arrived at even a dis tant knowledge of this art. Perhaps the most skillful detecter of such notices was "Kit Carson," as he was generally termed, and it would be very strange if he were not. No man in the United States has had greater experience, and no man possessed a keener natural in stinct to detect Indian signs. I must confess my ina bility to do this part of the subject full justice, but will give the result of my observations. The traveler is often surprised to notice a number of stones on one side the 186 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. road, lying apparently without any set arrangement, when he can observe no others within reach of his eye. A careful observation will convince him that they never grew in that region, but were brought from some consid erable distance. This translation was certainly neither the work of Americans nor Mexicans, but of Indians, and evidently for some fixed purpose. A closer exam ination will show that these stones are regularly ar ranged, and that the majority point to some special point of the compass, while the number of those who planted them is designated by some concerted placement of each stone. For instance, no one need be told that in wild countries like Arizona, where deluges of rain pour down during the rainy season, the heaviest side of a stone will, in course of time, find itself underneath, and when this order is reversed, especially under the circumstances above cited, there is good reason to believe that it has been purposely done. This belief becomes certainty on seeing that each one of the group, or parcel, is precisely the same way. Besides, a stone which has been long lying on one particular side, soon contracts a quantity of clay or soil on its nether surface, while its upper one has been washed clean. If it be turned over, or partly over, the difference becomes easily discoverable. If one stone be placed on end so as to rest against another, it means that the party so placing it require aid and assist ance. If turned completely over^it indicates disaster during some raid; and if only partly turned, that the ex pedition has been a failure. Success is noted by the stones being left in a natural position, heaviest side down, but so arranged as to be nearly in line. I am not suffi ciently expert in this style of signalizing to give any further explanations, and I doubt if any one but "Kit Carson " was capable of fully decyphering this kind of Apache warnings. LIFE AMONG THE APAOHES. 187 These remarks have seemed necessary to the full de velopment of the Apache character, as they, in some sort, serve to account for the clear and explicit under standing which undoubtedly exists among the many de tached fragments of that race. Without some such codes of signals, they would be comparatively incapable of the terrible devastations and outrages they have perpetrated. Neither could they collect their scattered bands for any occasion requiring numbers without great loss of time and trouble. Having no reliable means for subsistence beyond what they obtain by marauding excursions, they are wholly incapable of maintaining any considerable number for more than a few days at a time, and they, therefore, depend upon their signals as the means of warning each other, and consolidating whenever the "game is worth the candle." The Apaches brought their system to wonderful perfection, and from this arises their capacity to act conjointly with celerity, vigor and effect, although the operating bodies may not actually meet until just before the time for action arrives. It is to this system that the Apache bands of fives, tens and twenties, separated from each other by twenty, thirty and forty miles, feel that they are operating always in concert, and manage to maintain a rigid police espion age over the vast region they inhabit. "When will the white man ever become wise, and, in stead of treating the Indian with scornful indifference, give him credit for his intelligence, his quick and remark able instincts, his powers of reflection and organization, and his inveterate opposition to all innovation? We have been too much in the habit of treating them with contempt, and underrating our savage enemies. This has been a serious blunder, the rock upon which so many millions of money and so many precious lives have 188 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. been wrecked. Is it not time to accept a new policy in their regard ? Will civilized people never learn that they are quite as obtuse to comprehend real Indian nature as the Indians to understand their civilization? Can they not see that their hauteur, self-sufficiency and overbear ing conceit, are quite as reprehensible as the Indian's ig norance, distrust and superstition? The savage is par donable in his mental darkness, but the white man is inexcusable in his light. Semi-idiotic people believe that the Apache of to-day is like his ancestor of half a century ago; that he fights with bow and stone-headed arrows; that he has learned nothing from experience; that he is a biped brute who is as easily killed as a wolf; that he possesses no power of organization, combination, judgment, skill, strategy or reflection; but the truth is, that he possesses them all in an eminent degree. When the popular mind shall have been disabused of such heresy, it will have' accomplished the first step 'toward that long-wanted result, the domination and consequent pacification of the Indian tribes of the North American continent. Let it be well understood that the Apache of to-day is armed with the best kind of rifle, with Colt's six-shooters and with knives, and that, in addition to these, he is never without his silent, death-dealing bow and quiver full of iron-headed arrows. While adopting our im proved weapons, whenever occasion offers, they never abandon those of their sires. The reasons for this are fourfold : First, the bow and arrow in the hands of skill ful warriors proves very deadly; it makes no noise, and for night attacks or the taking off of sentinels, is far su perior to the gun. Secondly, it is the best weapon that can be used in the chase, or, more properly, on the hunt, as half a dozen animals may be slain in a herd be- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 189 fore their comrades are made aware of the fact. Thirdly, they are so light that they can be worn without the slightest sense of encumbrance. Fourthly, they can al ways be relied on, at close quarters, when other weapons fail, or ammunition, of which they possess limited sup plies, gives out. It is, therefore, not strange that the Apache will invariably add his bow and arrows to his personal armament, although he may be the owner of a Spencer rifle and a couple of Colt's revolvers, with am munition to suit. Whenever they design entering one of our military camps they invariably conceal, at some distance, firearms; so that they may appear innocent of designed enmity or their possession, but should occasion serve, they quickly manage to re-possess themselves of all their weapons. Let it also be understood that the Apache has as per fect a knowledge of the. assimilation of colors as the most experienced Paris modiste. By means of his acumen in this respect, he can conceal his swart body amidst the green grass, behind brown shrubs, or gray rocks, with so much address and judgment that any but the experi enced would pass him by without detection at the dis tance of three or four yards. Sometimes they will en velop themselves in a gray blanket, and by an artistic sprinkling of earth, will so resemble a granite boulder as to be passed within near range without suspicion. At others, they will cover their persons with freshly gath ered grass, and lying prostrate, appear as a natural por tion of the field. Again, they will plant themselves among the yuccas, and so closely imitate the appearance of that tree as to pass for one of its species. These ex act imitations of natural objects which are continually present to the traveler, tend to disarm suspicion; yet, I would not advise the wayfarer to examine each suspected 190 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. bush, tree or rock, but simply to maintain a cautious system of marching never, for a moment, relaxing his watchfulness, and invariably keeping his weapons ready for immediate use. Whenever these precautions are ob served, the Apache is slow to attack, even at monstrous odds in his favor. The selfishness inherent in the human race crops out with intensity among these Indians; yet their hatred and animosity toward all other races is even stronger, and is the matrix of the cohesive principle by which they have been kept together, and which has proved their safe guard against all outside corrupting influences. Under no circumstances will one Apache risk anything for an other, unless it is manifestly to his interest. The most refined civilization could not advance him in this respect. He appreciates self just as well as those who have been the habitues of "Wall street, the Stock Exchange, or the Parisian Boulevards. If the height of good breeding consists in being perfectly impassive, and disregardful of the events which attend on fellow men, then the Apache has arrived at the apex of good breeding, and lordlings may take lessons from his school of manners. Their great natural intelligence makes them comprehend that "in union is strength," and their desire to exhibit that strength is ever prevalent. They delight to mani fest their numerical power, for the reason that oppor tunities for such exhibition are very rare, and whatever is of common occurrence ceases to interest; and also because such combinations tend to inflict additional dread upon their enemies, and the inculcation of this sentiment is a chief cause of security to each Apache. In all our dealings with Indian tribes we have quite underrated their abilities, and in this we have demon strated our own stupidity. The vanity and self-conceit LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 191 of civilized and educated men are never more stilted than when brought in contact with savage races. Such persons are prone to address the Indian with a smirk or patronizing air which is very offensive, and would never be used toward an equal. No allowance is made for the fact that the proud savage does consider himself not only the equal, but the superior of his white brother. It seems never to have been understood that consider able deference should be paid to his very ignorance, be cause that ignorance is his sufficient excuse for crediting himself with superior intelligence. The conceit of the educated white man is fully equaled by that of the savage, and the lower he is in the scale of mental ability the greater will be his pretension to superiority. The fact that a wise man knows himself to be ignorant, while an ignorant man believes himself to be wise, is fully exemplified in our intercourse with the Apaches, but it is a question in my mind whether the Apaches have not had the best end of the argument, when the character and acts of their agents, and. others, who have been ap pointed to treat with them, are known and considered. To arrive at a successful arrangement with these In dians they must be approached in the first place as equals. This will flatter their inordinate vanity, and minister to their excessive selfishness. After a few interviews for the purpose of establishing amicable understanding, the agent, or treating party, or traveler, should carefully in troduce some cheap natural effects, the employment of which would be ridiculed in ordinary civilized life, but present astounding revelations to the wild Indian. The use of a double convexed lens, as a magnifier, or as a burning-glass; the employment of a strong field glass; exhibiting the powers and qualities of a strong magnet; showing the wonders of the magic lantern, and other 192 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. like simple demonstrations, will invariably impress them with something of respect and regard toward the oper ator, provided he is exceedingly careful in his first at tempts not to alarm their pride and suspicion by any boastful or vain expression or demeanor. These things should be done as if with the intention of asking from them an exhibition of their skill in return for your efforts to please. They should never be permitted to infer that they are the results of boastful superiority. In this man ner a feeling of mutual regard can be engendered which is the first step toward the establishment of durable amity. They should be asked to exhibit their address in shooting, riding, hunting and other pursuits of like character, in which they are expert. The white man should evince a desire to learn as well as teach; but so long as we continue to approach them with hauteur and with patronizing airs, they will resist our efforts and em ploy all their cunning to overreach and leave us worse off than ever. As they cannot rise to our level we must descend to theirs to understand and appreciate their true character. But even under the most favorable circumstances, and with the employment of every resource within our power, only very meagre and unsatisfactory results can be ob tained. The labors and experiences of two hundred and fifty years have failed utterly to create any favor able impression upon our Indian races, with the excep tion of the Choctaws and Cherokees, who were actually hemmed in by intelligent people, and had civilization forced upon them to some extent, and scarcely one of whom is tu-day of pure Indian blood. I consider the idea of emancipating our savage tribes from the thraldom of their ignorance and perverse traditional hatred of the whites as wholly utopian. Of all the tribes on our con- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 193 tinent the Apache is the most impracticable. Their enmity toward mankind, and distrust of every word and act are ineradicable. As their whole system of life and training is to plunder, murder and deceive, they cannot comprehend opposite attributes in others. He whom we would denounce as the greatest scoundrel they regard with special esteem and honor. With no people are they on amicable terms, and never hesitate to rob from each other when it can be done with impunity. There is no sympathy among them; the quality is unknown. Should an Apache's horse escape and run past another of the tribe, close enough to catch the animal by simply reach ing forth his hand, that hand will never be stretched for the purpose; but the owner must do the business for himself, if his squaw is not at hand to do it for him. Nevertheless, after a successful raid, in which they have captured many animals, and having selected the best for riding, retire to some remote fastness to feed upon the remainder so long as they last, they will freely share to the very last bit with any and all comers of their race. This seeming hospitality is, however, not the result of kindliness, but the prompting of a selfish policy, for they are aware it assists to unite them in one common band of plundering brotherhood, and to preserve those relations toward each other without which they cannot operate advantageously. Frequently when one has re ceived a small present of tobacco, or some such article, he will divide it among all on the spot, simply because he knows that the same thing will be done to him by the others whenever occasion serves, and not from any sense of generosity, as may be seen from the fact that, if one only be present to receive a gift, he immediately hides it on some part of his person and complacently ignores its existence to all who may arrive after the event. 194 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. There is nothing of which they are so careful as am munition. Always difficult to obtain, and indispensable in their engagements at the present day, every grain of powder is preserved with extraordinary solicitude. In their hunting excursions they never fire a gun or pistol if it can possibly be avoided, but depend entirely upon their skill in approaching the game near enough to use the bow and arrow. At an early period they understood fully the value of double sights on any weapon carrying a ball, and the old-fashioned single-barreled shot guns, a few of them possessed at that time, were invariably sawed into with a knife to the depth of one-eighth of an inch, a few inches from the breech, when the thin sliver was raised above the barrel and carefully notched to form the rear sight. At the present writing they have a considerable num ber of Henry's, Spencer's and Sharp's rifles, with some of the fixed ammunition required by the two first men tioned. Every cartridge they get hold of is preserved with solicitude until it can be expended with decided advantage. These weapons have been obtained grad ually by the robbery and murder of their former owners, and not a few have been bought in the frontier Mexican towns, where they were sold by immigrants to obtain food and other supplies while crossing the continent. The hostilities which raged along the northern portion of Mexico for four years also contributed to place within their reach many weapons of fair quality. That they know how to handle these arms with deadly skill has been attested on too many occasions to need particular mention in thse pages. From Gila Bend to Paso del Norte is little better than a continuous grave-yard, grizzly with the rude monuments of Apache bloodthirst- iness. Town after town, once containing several thou- LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 195 sand inhabitants and even now showing the remains of fine brick churches; rancho after rancho, formerly stocked with hundreds of thousands of cattle and horses, and teeming- with wealth; village after village all through the northern parts of Sonora and Chihuahua, the whole em braced in a belt five hundred miles long and from thirty to eighty wide, now exhibit one wide-spread and tenant- less desolation, the work of the Apache Indians. For ninety consecutive years this ruthless warfare has been, carried on against a timid, nearly unarmed and demor alized people. Thousands of lives have been destroyed, and thousands of women and children carried into a cap tivity worse than death, during that period; and yet the deadly, destructive and unholy work goes on with unre- laxed vigor. It is both sickening and maddening to ride through that region and witness the far-reaching ruin, to listen to the dreadful tales of unequaled atrocities, and note the despairing terror which the bare mention of the Apaches conjures up to their diseased and horrified imaginations. Coming to the American side, we enter upon another field of destruction, but in nowise comparable to that which Mexico exhibits. The great majority of our sacri fices of life and property have been the results of want of caution, of fool-hardiness and too great self-reliance. As already stated, we are too prone to underrate the Apache in all respects, ^and by so doing set a trap for our own feet. But even on our side the border the traveler will encounter many fine farms abandoned, their build ings in ruins, and the products of years of industry wrested from their grasp. On every road little mounds of stones by the way-side, some with a rude cross, and others with a modest head-board, speak in silent but 'terribly suggestive language of the Apaches' bloody 196 LIFE AMONa THE APACHES. work. Scattered all over Arizona are mines of wondrous wealth utterly inapplicable to the uses of mankind so long as that tribe remains unsubdued and unconquered. Communication between any two places, if not more than a mile apart, cannot be ventured upon without ab solute danger. No man can trust his animals to graze three hundred yards from the town walls without incur ring the risk of losing them at high noon. Mexican wo men and children have been carried off during the day time, while washing in the stream, within four hundred yards of their own doors and in plain sight of their towns people. These atrocities, and others unnecessary to mention, go on year after year; and thus far no success ful result has been obtained, as might have been ex pected, from the puerile and ill-directed efforts made to suppress them. "Wherever an intelligent and well con ceived movement has been concerted within the power of the limited force in Arizona, official stupidity has in variably disconcerted and paralyzed its efficiency. This is no vague and untenable charge, as will be seen in suc ceeding pages. There is but one opinion on the subject throughout all Arizona. The correspondence between Gov. McCormick and Gen. McDowell, some of which has been made public through the daily papers, is in it self sufficient to establish the assertion, and no doubt led to the removal of Gen. McDowell from the field of his operations. Personally, my regard for that officer as a gentleman is very sincere; but it may be doubted if the army register contains the name gf another so wholly, so utterly incapable of comprehending Indian nature and the requirements of Indian warfare. As a cabinet officer he may have few equals in the service; but for In dian campaigning, it would be difficult to select another so little fitted. CHAPTEE XVI. Condition of New Mexico and Arizona. Active Campaign. Calif ornian Soldiers. Bosqiie Redondo. More Intimate Relations with Apaches. Site of Fort Sumner. Scarcity of Wood. Climate. Arrival of Apache Prisoners of War. Dog Canon. Apache Embassy. Mr. Labadie. Placed in Charge of the Apaches.- -Form a Council. Hunting Excursion with Apaches. Their Mode of Killing Antelopes. Learn more of Indian Character. Obtain a G reater Share of their Confidence. So soon as Sibley's command had been driven from Arizona and New Mexico, Gen. Carleton devoted his at tention to protect from Indian outrage the inhabitants of those Territories. Previous to our arrival no one had the hardihood to venture outside the skirts of the towns and villages, unless accompanied by a force respectable in numbers, if in nothing else. The whole country was a theater of desolation. What the Confederates failed to appropriate, the Apaches destroyed. The inhabitants were literally starving and utterly demoralized. Instead of being able to furnish us supplies, we were compelled to afford them occasional assistance. This state of affairs had been foreseen by Carleton, to some extent, and we were consequently in a condition to be independent un til such protection could be granted as would induce the resident population to re-commence farming operations. Soon after our advent, .Gen. Canby was recalled, and the chief command invested in Carleton. From that time a series of active and energetic campaigns against the Apache and Navajo tribes was inaugurated, which had the effect of completely humiliating those leading na- 198 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. tions and re-establishing the peace, security and produc tiveness of the two Territories. After much delibera tion, and years subsequent to the incidents narrated, it is my conviction that the many signal triumphs obtained over the Apaches and Navajoes could only have been achieved by Californian soldiers, who seem gifted in a special manner with the address and ability to contend advantageously against them. This assertion has been so frequently admitted by the resident populations that it is not deemed necessary to dilate further than mention the names of such men as Koberts, McCleave, Fritz, Shirland, the two Greens, Tidball, Whitlock, Thayer, Pettis, and many others, who rendered good service and compassed the security and peace of the two Territories during their term of service. "With the retirement of the Californian troops another series of robberies and massacres was instituted by the Indians, and maintained until the present time without apparent hindrance. In the winter of 1862-3, I was ordered from Albu querque to join Capt. Updegraff, commanding company A, Fifth United States Infantry, and to proceed to the Bosque Bedondo, somewhere on the Pecos river, over two hundred and fifty miles to the eastward outside the bounds of all human habitation, and ninety miles from the nearest civilized inhabitant. Capt. Updegraff was instructed to examine the Bosque Kedondo, and select a site for the construction of a large fort, with the view of establishing an extensive Indian Reservation in its im mediate neighborhood. This sort of exile was anything but displeasing to me, for I much preferred being from under the nose of a commanding General, whose unscru pulous ambition and exclusive selfishness had passed into a proverb, despite his acknowledged ability and appar ent zeal. But it is not my task to discuss matters of LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 199 this nature; and the reference is only to show by what means I again became intimately acquainted with re nowned Apaches and acquired their language, together with a knowledge of those traits, customs and organiza tions, which has enabled me to write with confidence and understanding upon these and kindred points. Capt. Updegraff was ordered to make a reconnoissance of the Bosque Redondo, and select a site for the future post and reservation; such selection to be approved or disapproved by a board of engineers, specially ordered to make a thorough survey. On arriving at the Bosque, the Captain ordered me to go ahead and select a camp ground; and in obedience thereto, I took ten men and reconnoitered the river and its banks for several miles, finally fixing on a spot formerly used as a sheep corral by Mexicans during a time of peace, many years before. This spot was chosen for the three fold reasons that it was near water, which was approachable through an open space in the woods; that it was covered with excel lent pasture; and that it contained the stakes and tim bers of the old corral, which were dry and made excel lent fire-wood. This selection was approved, and the next day a further reconnoissance was made to fix a per manent site for the fort. This ended in confirming the first choice, and here the most beautiful Indian fort in the United States was ultimately constructed, the board of engineers having indorsed the spot as being the most eligible on the river. This fort was built almost wholly by Calif ornian soldiers, and is beyond comparison the handsomest and most picturesque in the Union. Never theless, it was easy to comprehend that, should &ny great number of persons be assembled thereat, a scarcity of wood must ultimately occur, and as Fahrenheit's ther mometer occasionally falls to eight and ten degrees be- 200 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. low zero in the winter time, wood was an object of prime necessity. The alamo furnished the whole supply of this material , and the extent of the Bosque Redondo , or Round Woods, was only sixteen miles long by half a mile wide in the widest place, and for several miles affording only a few scattered trees, which were by no means thick even in the densest portions. When we arrived the weather was very cold, with eight inches of snow upon the ground, and the first duty was to " hut in" the command. This was accomplished in a short time, after which rude but serviceable stables were put up, a hospital, quartermas ter's and commissary's stores built, and the other requi site shelters erected. Scarcely had these precautions been taken before we received an invoice of five hundred Apaches, including the leading warriors of the Mescalero tribe, their women and children, and a few of the chief Jicarillas. These were the savages who had so long held Dog Canon, and defied all attempts to force a passage through that re nowned stronghold. Capt. McCleave, of company A, First Cavalry California Volunteers, determined to "give it a try;" and having obtained permission, soon succeeded in routing and completely demoralizing the savages, who fled to Fort Stanton for shelter and protec tion, closely pursued by McCleave and his company so closely, in fact, that the Apaches saw no other means of escape from certain destruction except to deliver them selves up as prisoners of war to Col. "Kit" Carson, at that time in charge of Fort Stanton, with four compa nies of infantry and one of native New Mexican cavalry. Carson informed McCleave that the Indians had placed themselves under his protection, subject to the disposal of the General commanding; upon which McCleave with drew, not over-pleased with the result, although he had whipped them handsomely in Dog Canon. LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 201 Soon afterward five of the leading warriors proceeded to Santa Fe, under an armed escort, to confer with the General, who exacted that they should submit to being placed upon the reservation of the Bosque Eedondo. The answer of their chief spokesman, named Cadete'by the Mexicans, but whose Apache appellation is Gian- nah-tah, or "Always Ready," is indicative of the nature and character of his tribe. Having listened to the Gen eral's final determination, he answered and said: "You are stronger than we. We have fought ybu so long as we had rifles and powder; but your arms are better than ours. Give us like weapons and turn us loose, we will fight you again; but we are worn-out; we have no more heart; we have no provisions, no means to live; your troops are everywhere; our springs and water holes are either occupied or overlooked by your young men. You have driven us from our last and best strong hold, and we have no more heart. Do with us as may seem, good to you, but do not forget we are men and braves." They were remanded back to Fort Stanton, and from thence sent to the Bosque Eedondo, since called Fort Sumner, where they arrived after a long and painful march of one hundred and thirty miles, with short ra tions and much suffering. They were immediately turned over to my charge by Capt. TJpdegraff, although the In dian agent, Mr. Labaclie, was with them, and from that moment I laid the foundation of that confidence and respect which was never alienated, and which enabled me to perfect a knowledge of their character far greater than ever arrived at by the experiences of any other white man. In a short time their number was increased to seven hundred, and subsequently to nearly fifteen hundred. 202 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. By their own request I was authorized to take exclusive charge of their affairs. In so far as military movements were concerned, they appointed me their Nantanh-in- jah, or Chief Captain, and submitted to my arbitration all their social and tribal difficulties, my decision being final. I soon formed a council of their principal men, and lost no opportunity to make myself acquainted with their views, manners, habits, customs, religious and so cial observances, language, and, in fine, whatever tended to unfold their characteristics. My council consisted of Gian-nah-tah, or Always Ready; Na-tanh, or the Corn Flower; Too-ah-y ay-say, or the Strong Swimmer; Natch- in-ilk-kisn, or the Colored Beads; Nah-kah-yen, or the Keen Sighted; Para-dee-ah-tran, or the Contented; Klo- sen, or the Hair Hope; and a Jicarilla man of note, whose Indian naime has escaped my memory, but the meaning of which was the Kicking Horse. The renown of these warriors was too well established in the tribe to admit of doubt, and, whatever they said, was submitted to with out question. How this control was obtained over these grim savages is worthy of mention, as indicative of their profound respect for personal adventure. Five days after their arrival in camp, Mr. Labadie came to me and said: "These Indians are in great des titution. They consumed their rations two days ago, and have nothing to eat. There are many women and children among them, and two days more must elapse before rations are again distributed. Their warriors have asked that they be allowed to go hunting. The plains close by are filled with herds of antelopes, which may easily be taken. I have been to Capt. Updegraff, but he will not hearken to the proposition; please try and see what you can do, for otherwise they may attempt to escape from the Reservation." LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 203 I immediately sought the post commander and said to him : " Captain, the Apaches have asked your permission to go on a grand hunt, which you have refused; allow me to say that they are starving, that you have their wives and children as hostages for their return, and if you will recall your determination, I will volunteer to go out with them and be answerable for their safe return within forty-eight hours." Capt. Updegraff peered at me through his black, in telligent eyes for a moment or two, and then replied: "Very well, Captain; if you choose to trust yourself with these unmitigated red devils and make yourself re sponsible for their return, and give me official assurance in writing, that it is indispensably necessary, you can start with them to-morrow morning at daylight; but do not remain away longer than forty-eight hours." This resolution was forthwith conveyed to Mr. Laba- dife, who spread it among the Apaches, taking care to inform them by what means the favor had been granted. Next morning, at seven o'clock, we sallied forth, the party numbering one hundred and ten Apaches, ninety- five of whom were warriors and fifteen women the only person present, not an Apache, being myself. I had four Colt's six-shooters, two in my saddle-holsters and two in my belt, with a large bowie knife, but my horse was infinitely superior to anything they could boast in that line. They were all armed with bows and arrows all who possessed rifles or pistols having left them in camp. In the field, whether for warlike purposes or for hunt ing, the Apache is very reticent, and by no means given to talking. Conversation is only indulged while in camp, and amidst friends during a period of apparent security. But upon this occasion they gave full vent to their joy 204 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. and satisfaction, and offered me a number of little atten tions. We rode on for five miles until the top of a hill was reached, from which we could obtain a fair view of the surrounding country. Here a short consultation was held among them, during which I smoked a cigarito, giving* several to those close in my neighborhood. A certain direction having been selected as the field of op erations, we again started, and after having progressed about two miles, the band formed into two lines, the first being about six hundred yards in advance of the second. These two bodies then prolonged their lines so that no two individuals were nearer than forty or fifty yards, which stretched each line to the distance of two thousand five hundrec^ or three thousand yards, sweep ing a large surface of territory, and yet close enough to prevent the escape of an antelope through the two human barriers, or between the huntsmen in each. In this f ormatibn we progressed until a herd was seen abaut half a mile in advance. Instantly the two wings of the first line rode forward at full speed, and succeeded in cutting off the retreat of the doomed animals by com pleting a circle; at the same time the gaps were rapidly closed up, and the circle narrowed with amazing celerity and dexterity. The terror-stricken antelopes turned to flee, but on every side they met an inexorable and keenly watchful enemy. Bewildered, panting with agony and fear, inclosed on all sides, they soon became incapable of continuing the unequal contest, and were killed with perfect ease. The few which contrived to break through the first line were sure to meet death at the hands of the second. Not one in fifty escaped, and their preservation seemed almost miraculous. In this way we managed to destroy eighty-seven antelopes on that expedition, and it was my good fortune to kill five, being two more than LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 205 were bagged by any other hunter on the field. These I gave the Apaches, reserving only a hind quarter for my self. Within thirty-six hours I had the satisfaction of reporting to Capt. Updegraff, and relating to him the complete success of our hunting excursion, at which he was so well pleased that I never afterward met any ob jection from that gallant and good officer when a like expedition was to be undertaken. After this event the Apaches seemingly gave me more of their confidence than ever, but I was still far from the point ultimately reached, although I then thought I had achieved it nearly all. This fact should warn us never to arrive at hasty conclusions, especially when dealing with a people which have studiously endeavored to mis lead and cozen all with whom they come in contact. I had rendered them r an important service; they were grateful to me for such aid. I had trusted myself unre servedly among them, the avowed enemies of my race, and they respected me for my confidence. But I was still a white man, and they were still Apaches. "While professing a certain degree of personal regard, they not only refused to admit me within the sanctum of their trust, but some of them even began to look upon me as endeavoring to gain their confidence for the purpose of betraying and using it against them should opportunity serve. Fortunately, these suspicions were allayed in the course of time, and after a year and a half of constant intercourse, during which period they and several thou sand Navajoes a branch of the great Apache race were under my personal supervision, I was admitted to a tolerably fair knowledge of the points under consider ation in this work. 10 CHAPTER XVII. Satisfaction of the Apaches. Policy. Beneficial Results to my Men. Individual Responsibility. Short Allowance. The Apache nations Continued. Gen. Carleton's Visit. Bishop Lamy. Supplies Received. Apaches Elect a Governor. Juan Cojo. Commence Learning the Apache Language. Com pile a Vocabulary. Gradually gain Apache Confidence. Renew Acquaint ance with Old Enemies. Altered Relations. Former Events Recalled. Instruction thrown Away. Apache Ideas of Warfare. Their Horror of Work. Influence of their Women. Mescal. Its Intoxicating Qualities. THE successful result of our hunting expedition put the Apaches in high spirits. They understood that they were not to be treated as prisoners of war, in the strict sense of that phrase, but were to be allowed the privilege of wide and extensive hunting grounds, teeming with game; were not interrupted in their social relations, only in so far as a rigid police of their camp was required to prevent disease, and could live almost as unrestrained as in their native wilds, provided they were all present or duly accounted for at the stated roll-call, which took place every evening at sunset. Feeling that many of these privileges had been ob tained through my instrumentality, they sought my tent daily in great numbers, and seemed inclined to regard me as their protector and best friend. As it was well known that they were in constant correspondence with those of their race who had not surrenderee!, and as the members of my company were always detailed for mili tary couriers between Fort Sumner, Fort Mason, Fort Stanton, Santa Fe, and other points, I judged it pru dent to gain the confidence and good will of the Apaches LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 207 to the greatest possible extent, knowing that their kind ness for me W|mld extend itself to the men of my com pany, and this'lbelief was afterward fully justified when roving parties of Indians happened to meet my couriers. Tins occurred on several occasions, when the savages were so numerous as to make resistence out of the ques tion. They would ride up, examine the soldier atten tively, find out that he belonged to my company at Fort Sumner, bid him good-by in their best manner, and ride off, without attempting to do him harm or deprive him of horse or weapons. About six months afterward, G-ian-nah-tah, commonly called Cadete by the Mexicans, told me confidentially that neither myself nor my men would be harmed by the Apaches so long as we remained in the country, as those in camp felt that they were greatly indebted to us for many little kindnesses. This promise w T as carried out to the letter, and convinced me that gratitude for services rendered is by no means a strange emotion in the Apache character. I, however, doubt much if any other white man ever had the opportunity, or, having it, ever did take so much pains to win the respect and confidence of those strange and suspicious people. It will be observed that I use the word " those" in the foregoing sentence, instead of "that," and simply because each is so per fectly independent in all his belongings from all other tribes that they cannot be justly classified as a conjoint or co-operative race except for purposes of plunder and mutual defense when attacked. "When summoned to prosecute hostilities, unless against some marauding party of Comanches, Navajoes, or other tribes, each in dividual is free to join or not as he may see fit. Should the enterprise promise plenty of plunder with but little personal risk, no trouble will be found to engage all the 208 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. warriors needed; but, no matter how greatly superior their force may be, no precaution for safety is neg lected, and no means ignored which promises to secure their object without loss of life. It is only when prompt and immediate action is necessary that they resign their personal independence wholly to the guidance of some well known and selected warrior, but the occasion passed, that same leader falls back to his original individuality, the same as the President of the United States resumes his plain citizenship after the expiration of his term of office. About this time Gen. Carleton instituted rigid inquiries as to the quantity of provision on hand in the subsist ence departments of New Mexico and Arizona, and from the reports made to him, came to the conclusion that there would be somewhat of a scarcity before supplies could be received. Nearly three thousand Californian troops had been thrown into the two Territories, nine thousand Indians Apaches and Navajoes had suc cumbed to our arms, the country had been overrun and devastated by Sibley's column from Texas, no industrial nor agricultural pursuits had been re-commenced, and absolute want stared everybody in the face. Orders were immediately given to shorten the rations, and that for the Indians on the Fort Sumner Keservation were to be cut down largely. The order was issued to Capt. Updegraff, Fifth United States Infantry, commanding Fort Sumner, to take effect at a fixed date. Capt. Up degraff notified Mr. Labadie, the Indian Agent, of the order; Mr. Labadie communicated the fact to me, and I immediately waited upon Capt. Updegraff and requested him to communicate with the General commanding, and state the following arguments: There were nearly nine thousand Indians on that one Keservation. They had LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 209 been subdued by the Californian troops after great exer tions, and the Territory rendered comparatively free from those terrible Indian raids that for so many years had laid it waste from one end to the other; that so long as those raids continued the industry of the people would be suppressed and crushed out, and that the best guaranty which could be given the inhabitants would be to retain the savages on the Reservation . This could be done so long as they had sufficient to eat. There were large numbers of women and children who could neither hunt nor obtain their livelihoods by any means except through the Government rations, so long as they re mained in semi-captivity; that the Reservation farm was not yet in a condition to yield the requisite support, and that if their rations were diminished, a spirit of intense dissatisfaction would display itself in the escape of thou sands whom it would be impossible to restrain with our very limited force, and that the escaping parties would immediately betake themselves to plunder, assassination and destructive inroads. I, therefore, begged Capt. Updegraff to represent these and other cogent argu ments to the General, with a view of having the full ra tion continued to the Indians. These arguments had weight with the Post Com mander, and were by him urged on the attention of the General, who immediately perceived their truthfulness, and ordered the full ration continued until such time as he could make personal investigation. Fortunately an opportunity soon occurred, and the General visited Fort Sumner with several officers and the Et. Eev. Bishop Lamy, Bishop of New Mexico. Next day Capt. Updegraff candidly informed the Gen eral that I had prompted his letter, and I was summoned to the interview which followed. After a careful inquiry I 210 LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. and examination of several days, Gen. Carletori arrived at the same opinion with myself, and the full ration was ordered to be given as before. Six weeks subsequently the several Commissaries in the two Territories made official returns of their supplies, and it was found that their former estimates were far short of the mark. At the same time subsistence stores began to arrive from the East, and the new crops were being harvested, in peace, for the first time for many years. Upon these represen tations, orders were issued to restore full rations to all the troops, and abundance once more gladdened our ta bles. Whether right or wrong, the savages were taught by Mr. Labadie to believe that I was the person whose agency had preserved them from half rations, and the reader can well suppose how much I rose in their esti mation. I was appointed grand director of their camps, with power to decide all differences and settle all quar rels between parties. Every grievance, real or imagined, was submitted for my jurisdiction; and, I am proud to add, that my administration was regarded with affection ate reverence. Those wild and untamed sons and daughters of the forests, the plains and the mountains, would throng my casita from reveille until tattoo, asking a thousand questions and always receiving proper atten tion. Among them was a Mexican, about forty years old, who had been a captive to their "bow and spear" for twenty odd years. He was taken at the age of eleven and did not obtain his release until he was past thirty- three. That man, Juan Cojo, spoke their language as fluently as themselves, and had been engaged as inter preter. Juan and I soon became good friends, although I must confess that his Apache education had somewhat unfitted him to be the most moral character of my ac quaintance. Nevertheless, his services were indispensa- fl LIFE AMONG THE APACHES. 211 ble, and I induced Gen. Carleton tcv appropriate fifty dollars per month additional pay to Juan*