mmn
 
 NARRATIVE 
 
 OF TH£ 
 
 BRITISH EMBASSY 
 
 T O 
 
 CHINA, 
 
 JN THE YEARS I 792, I793, AND 1 794-
 
 NARRATIVE 
 
 OF THE 
 
 BRITISH EMBASSY 
 
 TO 
 
 CHINA, 
 
 IN THE YEARS 1792, 1793, AND 1794 J 
 
 CONTAININe. 
 
 THE VARIOUS CIRCUMSTANCES of the EMBASSY, 
 
 WITH ACCOUNTS OF 
 
 CUSTOMS AND MANNERS of the CHINESE; 
 
 AND A DESCBIPTION OF THE 
 
 COUNTRY, TOWNS, CITIES, &c. &c. 
 
 By ^ N E a S ANDERSON, 
 
 THEN IN THE SERVICE Ot HIS EXCELLENCY EARL MACARTHEY, K. B. AMBASSADOR FROM 
 THE KIKC OF GREAT BRITAIN TO THE EMFEROR OF CHIKA. 
 
 LONDON: 
 Printed for J. DEBRETT, opposite BuRLtNCiON-HousE,. Piccadilly,
 
 70S 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 -TxN embafTy to China was a new event in the diplo- 
 matic hiftory of this country, and very naturally excited 
 a general curiofity concerning it : for, without confider- 
 ing the great commercial ohje(5Vs it had in view, the 
 univerfal ignorance which prevailed refpe£ling the inte- 
 rior parts of that empire, and the confequent novelty 
 which mull: be produced by any authentic hillory of it, 
 would irrefillibly attraft the attention of our enlightened 
 country, to the only civilifed nation in the world, whofe 
 jealous laws forbid the intrufion of any other people. 
 
 It is not my defign to examine thofe writers who have 
 preceded me on the fubje£t of China : it is not for me to 
 point out their contradiftions, or difplay their fabulous 
 
 interpo-
 
 ( vi ) 
 
 interpolations — my only bufinefs is to relate what I faw In 
 the courfe of this embaffy, in every part of which I had 
 the honour to attend Lord Macartney, who was appointed 
 to be the reprefentative of his Britannic Majefty at the 
 Court of Pekin. 
 
 The difadvantages which opprefs the trade of Euro- 
 pean countries with China are well known, and to remove 
 them in behalf of our own, was an obje£l well worthy 
 the attentive wifdom of our government. It was not, 
 however, a mere fpeculative project ; as a fufficient inti-^ 
 mation had been made to the Court of London, that ari 
 AmbalTador from thence would be gracioufly received by 
 the Emperor of China: miniilers, therefore, afted with a 
 ftrift political attention to the commercial inteiells of 
 this country, by preparing an embaffy, fuited to the 
 dignity of the Court of Great Britain, and fitted out in a 
 manner to attraft the attention of the Chlnefe people, as 
 well as to command the refpec^:, and fecure the regard of 
 the Court of Pekin. 
 
 The Honourable Colonel Cathcart was, accordingly, In- 
 vefted, in the year 1788, with the important character of 
 minifler from this country to the Empire of China ; a man 
 whofe fuperior talents, amiable maimers, fhrev/d fagacity 
 and adive perfeverance qualified him, in a pre-eminent de- 
 gree, to forward the important objefts of his milTion : but 
 
 the
 
 ( vll ) 
 
 the premature death of that able, excellent, and accom- 
 plilhed man, which happened on his voyage, thwarted the 
 progrefs of the embaiTy he was appointed to conduct; 
 and as no perfon had been named in the King's com- 
 milTion, to fucceed to his diplomatic oflice, if he flionld 
 not reach the place of his deilination, that embafly died 
 with him : and mav be faid to have been buried on the 
 diftant fliore where his allies repofe. 
 
 The wife attentions of government were not, however, 
 to be turned afide from luch an important, national object 
 as a commercial alliance between the Courts of London 
 and Pekin : the character of Ambaffador to China was 
 accordingly revived, with additional fplendor, in the per- 
 fon of Earl Macartney ; and an embafly was re-appointed 
 in fuch a manner as became the empire it was to repre- 
 fent — and the empire before which it was to appear. 
 
 It Is impoflible to fpeak in higher terms of the anxious 
 care and liberal attention of government to this diplomatic 
 miflion than it deferves. The fuperior talents whicli 
 direft the board of controul, and the commercial fpirit 
 which animates the direction of the Eafl: India Company, 
 combined to form thofe arrangements which certainly 
 deferved fuccefs, If they did not obtain it. No narrow, 
 or fordid views, mingled with the preparations of it : 
 the means of exterior figure, and the allurements of 
 I national
 
 ( vHI ) 
 
 national productions, in every branch of art, fcience^ 
 and manufacture, were amply fupplied ; and though th^ 
 embaffy has frilled in its object, its failure cannot be 
 attributed to thofe who framed and fafliioned it in this 
 country, and fet it forward to its dillant delHnation. 
 
 I have accurately related every circumrtance that came 
 under my obfervation, with many occurrences which I 
 I heard from thofe, whofe authority it would be imper- 
 tinence, to fay no worfe, in me to refill. My defi.gn is 
 to attempt no more than I am qualified to fulfil ; and 
 this volume will be more particularly found to contain a 
 faithful account of the Britifli embafiy, with its progrefs 
 through China, from the time that the Lion man of war,, 
 •and the Hindoftan Eaft-India Company's fiiip, anchored 
 before Mettow, in the Yellow fea, to its arrival at Can- 
 ton. This Narrative is faithfully given according to the 
 beft of my abilities, and from the moll: accurate obfer- 
 vations in my power to make, during the journey of the 
 embaffy by land, or its voyages by water, or its tem- 
 porary refidence in Pekin and Tartary. 
 
 Others, who polTefs a brilliant fancy, or a glowing 
 imagination, might give to their defcription of the 
 fcenes throuo;h which this volume will conduft the rea- 
 der, thofe bright colours which we fee on the Chinefe 
 
 manufac-
 
 ( Ix ) 
 
 manufaftures that are imported into this country, to de- 
 corate the apartments of elegant opulence: hut my prin- 
 cipal objeft is to give a ftrong and accurate out-line of the 
 pi<5ture ; and I would rather be accufed of the dulncfs 
 and tautology of truth, than rifque a fufpicion that I had 
 facrificed to a creative imagination. Indeed, in a jour- 
 ney, or a voyage, or by whatever name it may be dil- 
 tinguifhed, of upwards of two thoufand miles, fome re- 
 petition mull be expefted and forgiven, not only from a 
 fimilitude of objeds, but from the impofTibility of dif- 
 playing, by literal defcription, thofe differences between 
 them, which, though evident to the eye, cannot be tranf- 
 ferred to the page. Cities, towns and villages, mountains 
 and rocks, rivers, canals and lakes, Sec. &c. will often- 
 times admit of nothinc^: more than creneral denominations. 
 The regularity, alfo, with which the Britifli embaffy was 
 conducted in its progrefs through China, will give an 
 occafional uniformity to the narration, that may fome- 
 times check the interell which, I truft, it will be o-ene- 
 rally found to excite : but I beg leave to alTure the reader 
 that, if unfortunately he fliould not be always amufed bv 
 this work, he will never be intentionally deceived ; and 
 the merit of fiithful reprefentation is all I have to claim, 
 and all I wifli to receive. 
 
 I have preceded the hiftory of the journey through 
 China with an account of the vovase to it: and have 
 confequently mentioned places which have already been 
 
 b defcribed
 
 ( X ) 
 
 defcribed by otliers, and are to be found in the volumes 
 of modern geography ; but I was advifed by thofe, on 
 whofe judgment 1 could very much rely, to give this 
 introductory part of it, according to my own know^ 
 ledgre, and from tlie refult of mv own obferva- 
 tion. 
 
 I have alfo added the journal of the Lion and the 
 Hindoftan from Chufan to Canton, as it contains much 
 curious and ufeful information relative to the navigation 
 of a lono- range of the coafts of China not generally 
 known, and may be, therefore, important to the future 
 voyager of the feas that wa(h them. The river of Can- 
 ton is fo well known, that I have comprefTed my account 
 of it into a very fmall compafs. The homeward-bound 
 voyage, alfo, which was accompanied with no circum- 
 ilance worthy of particular attention, is contained in a 
 few pages. To thefe I have added a fhort gloflary of 
 fuch Chinefe words and expreffions, as I had myfelf ac- 
 quired, and no more. 
 
 As to the names of cities, villages, Sec. I have given 
 the orthography according to their founds, and as I was 
 inftructed by thofe natives, whofe knowledge of the 
 Englilh language was fufficient to affilt me. 
 
 As.
 
 ( xi ) 
 
 I fliall offer no apology to my country for publifliing 
 the journal of a voyage, which had excited fuch uni- 
 verfal attention. If this volume contains a faithful nar- 
 rative of the public tranfactions of the late cmbally to 
 China, with fuch an account of the country and its inha- 
 bitants, as the circumttances of it, and mode of travel- 
 ling tlirougli it, would allow ; an apology mull: be confi- 
 dered as infulting the public, to wjiom the work is pre- 
 fented : and, if it fliould be found to contain nothing 
 that can intereft or amufe the public, the book itfelf 
 will be an infult, and beyond the reach of apology. 
 
 But I indulge myfelf in better expectations ; nor am 
 I without a flattering hope, that this volume contains 
 information which will gratify reafonable curiofity, and 
 enlarge the knowledge of a country fo little known to 
 the other nations of the o^lobe. 
 
 IVeJlmhiJler, Marfiam-Jlrect, 
 April 2, 1793. 
 
 b 2 LIST
 
 LIST 
 
 OF THE 
 
 GENTLEMEN 
 
 WHO COMPOSED THE RETINUE OF 
 
 EARL MACARrNEY. 
 
 Sir George Staunton, Bart. Secretary to the Enrbafly j 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, Commandant of the Ambaffador's Guard; 
 Lieutenant H. W. Parilh, of the Royal Artillery; 
 Lieutenant J. Crewe; 
 
 Mr. Achefon Maxwell, |^^.^^^ Secretaries to the Ambaffador; 
 
 Mr, Edward Winder, J 
 
 Mr. Baring, Affiftant Secretary, outward bound; Son of Sir Francis 
 Baring, Bart. 
 
 Dr. Gillan, Phyfician and Philofopher to the Embafly ; 
 
 Dr. Scott, Surgeon and Phyfician to the Embafly; 
 
 Mr. Barrow, Comptroller of the Houfehold; 
 
 Dr. Dinwiddie, Mechanifl:, Condud:or of mathematical and agrono- 
 mical prefents; 
 
 Mafter George Staunton, Son of Sir George Staunton, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Thomas Hickey, Portrait painter ; 
 
 Mr. Alexander, Draftfman; 
 
 Mr. Hutner, Preceptor to Mafter Staunton ; 
 
 Mr. Plumb, Interpreter. 
 
 CommiJJioners fent by the Eajl India Company to Canton, to notify the itiUnded Eim- 
 
 bajfy ofE.irl Macartney. 
 
 Meflrs. Jackfon, Irwine, and Brown.. 
 
 His
 
 H'n Excellency s Servants, &c. confipd of 
 
 A Steward, and an under ditto, 
 1 Valets de Chambrc, 
 A Cook, 
 3 Couriers, 
 A Footman, 
 ' A Baker, 
 
 A Band of 6 Muficians, 
 
 A Carpenter and Joiner, 
 
 A Saddler, 
 
 A Gardener, 
 
 A Taylor, 
 
 A Watchmaker, 
 
 A Mathematical Inltrument-maker. 
 
 Belonging to Sir G. Staunton : 
 2 Servants i Gardener. 
 
 Which, with Mr. Crewe's Valet de Chambre, formed the whole of the 
 domeftic eflablifhment, except three natives of China, who went out 
 with us from England. 
 
 Tlje Military KJlabliJliment, or Guards, conftjled of 
 20 Men of the Royal Artillery ; 
 10 Ditto I ith Light Dragoons ; 
 20 Ditto drafted from the additional Companies of Infantry, at Chatham. 
 
 'The Ships ivhich were employed to take the Rmbajfy to China., were 
 
 The Lion, of 64 guns, Sir Erafmus Gower, Commander; 
 The Hindoftan Eaft hidiaman, Capt. William Mackintofh, Com- 
 mander; and 
 The Jackall brig for a tender, manned by officers and men from the Lion. 
 
 Lijl of the Officers on Board his Majefys Ship Lion. 
 Sir Erafmus Gower, Knight, Commander ; 
 Mr. Cambell, ift. Lieutenant; 
 Mr. Whitman, 2d. ditto; 
 
 I Mr.
 
 L'ljl of the Officers on Board his Majejly's Ship Lion. 
 
 M. Atkins, 3d. ditto; 
 
 Mr. Cox, 4th. ditto died at Chufan; 
 
 Mr. Ommancy, adting Lieutenant ; 
 
 Mr. Jackfon, Mafter of the Lion ; 
 
 Mr. Saunders, Mafter's-mate ; 
 
 Mr. Tippett, ditto; 
 
 Mr. Simes, ditto (difmifled from the fhip at Batavia) ; 
 
 Mr. Lowe, ditto ; 
 
 Mr. Roper, ditto ; 
 
 Mr. Warren, ditto (fon of Dr. Warren, Phyfician to his Majefty, 
 
 and the Prince of Wales), pronnoted to be ading Lieutenant ;. 
 Mr. Kent ; 
 Mr. Chapman, (appointed Gunner, vice Corke, deceafed). 
 
 Midjhipmen. 
 
 Right Hon. Lord Mark Kerr, (fon of the Marquis Lothian), pro- 
 moted to be afting Lieutenant'; 
 Hon. Wm. Stuart, (fon of the Earl Bute) i 
 Mr. Bromely, 
 Mr. Swinbourne,, 
 Mr. Kelly, 
 Mr. Dilkes,^ 
 Mr. Trollope,. 
 Mr. Hey wood, 
 Mr. Hickey, 
 Mr. Thompfon, 
 Mr. Waller, (died at Wampoa) ; 
 Mr. Beaumont, (returned home from Angara Point, for the 
 
 recovery of his health) ; 
 Mr. Snipe, 
 Mr. Wools, 
 Mr. Montague, 
 Mr. Chambeis, 
 Mr. Scott, 
 Mr. Bridgeman, 
 
 . Mr,.
 
 Lift of the Officers on Board his Majejlfs Ship Lion. 
 
 Mr. Perkins, 
 Mr. Sarradine. 
 
 ]\Ir, Tothill, Purfer, (died at Cochin China) ; 
 
 Mr. Weft, Captain's Clerk ; 
 
 Mr. Nutt, Surgeon ; 
 
 Mr. Anderlbn, Chief-mate ; 
 
 Mr. Cooper, 2d. ditto ; 
 
 Mr. Thomas, 3d. ditto ; 
 
 Mr. Humphries, Schoolmaftcr.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 From England to Baiavia, Page i 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 ^he Jackall brig rejoins the Lion. — heighten, the carpenter, murdered 
 by the Malays. — Lord Macartney views the/pot where Col. Cath- 
 cart was buried. — Came to Pulo Condore ; fame account of the inha- 
 bitants ; their alarm. — Pajfcd various ijlajids. — Arrived at Turon 
 bay, in Cochin China.— Several mandarins came on board the Lion; 
 an account of them. — 'The chief minijler of the king of Cochin China. 
 viftts Lord Macartney. — Prtfents received. — Lord Macartney returns 
 the vijit onjhore in form. — The majlcr of the Lion feixed by the na- 
 iives, but releafcd in a jexQ days. — The interment of Mr. Tot hill, 
 furfer of the Lion, p. 4^ 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Leave Turon bay. — Sir George Staunton, &?c. fiil in the Jackall for 
 Macao. — Enter the Yellow Sea. — Lieut. Campbell goes to Metto-x. — 
 pre fen t from the mandarin of Chufan. — Number of f:ck sn board the 
 Lion. — Meffrs. Huttner and Plumb go to Met tow to arrange the land- 
 ing of the enibaj[v. — A mandarin arrives on board. — The foldiers, 
 mechanics and fuite go on board the junks, ivifh the prefents, bag- 
 
 c gage.
 
 ( xviii ) 
 
 gage, &c.-^7hc Ambtjjfador lands at Metiow. — Defcriptlon of that 
 place^ — — p' 56 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 j^n account ofthemand'arm appointed' to c on duSi the ac comma d'at'iom for 
 the embajjy. — Various prefents of prcvi/ions. — Grofs habits of the 
 Chine fe refpetiing their food. — Defcriptiofi of the junks. — Order of 
 thofe "vejfels fitted up for the accommodation oj the Bntijb Ambajfador- 
 and his fuiiCy • ■ • p. 62 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Lord Macartney leaves Met tow, and fets fall for P-ekin,. — Beatitv. and 
 fertility of the country. — Various circumfiances of the voyage. — The 
 foldiers of China defcribed. — The navigation of the river. — Some 
 
 account of the tea-tree, %vith the manner of making tea as a beverage ». 
 
 — Prodigious popidatioti of the country. — Arrive at the city ofTyen^ 
 fng. — Some account of it.- — A.Chinefe play. — Defcription.of the man^ 
 
 darings palace , . ^c. ■ ■ ■ ■ -- /• • ■ 6 8 
 
 € HAP. vr. 
 
 Violent form of thunder and lightning. — Prefents difrihuted' among- the: 
 fuite of the embaffy. — The manner of towing the junks. — The ordi- 
 nary meals of the Ghinefe, and their modi of preparing them. — The 
 increafing appearance of the navigation. — Strange habit of the lower 
 claffes of the natives. — pajfed the town of Cho^tang-poa.- — CircwU' 
 fiances of the river. — A vift from the mandarin of Tyen-fing to the 
 Ambajfador. — -His proceffion defcribed. — The neatnefs, fertility^ and: 
 various- productions of the fields on each fide of the river^, p. 79 
 
 C H A P. VII. 
 
 Arrive at the city ofTong-tchew, where the voyage ends. — The embaffy 
 
 dif embarks ; ceremonies on. the occafion. — The place appointed fbr the 
 
 I. ' TiceptiQti^
 
 ( xix ) 
 
 reception of the prefenis and baggage defcrihed, — Defaription of the 
 .building appropriated for the ref deuce of the Jlmbajfador and bisfuite. 
 — The domefic worfiip of the Chinefe. — "The entertainment of the etn- 
 ba^Uy. — An account of the city of Tong-tchew . — Circumjlances relative 
 to its government. — The prefents from the Emperor examined. — Ihe 
 artillery exercifed. — Vfit from the mandarin. — The death of Mr. 
 Eades, and his funeral. — The Ambaffador receives notice of the time 
 appointed for his departure for Pekin^ /). 86 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Leave the city ofT'ong-tchcw. — The road to Pekin defer ibcd. — Arrive 
 at a large town called Kiengfoo. — Halt there to breakfafl. — Prodi- 
 gious crowds of people to fee the emhaffy pafs. — Arrive at Pekin. — 
 Some account of the that city. — Ciifoms and manners of Chinefe. 
 — Leave Pekin. — Arrive at the Imperial Palace named 2\'umen- 
 manyeumen, p- 9^ 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Defer iption of the palace of Teumen-manycumen. — Difagreeable circiitn- 
 Jlances belonging to it. — Difputes %vith the natives zvho guarded it. — 
 Lord Macartney applies for a change of ftuation. — The embaffy re- 
 7noves to Pekin. — Defcription of a pagoda. — Arrive at the palace 
 appointed for the ref deuce of the embaffy. — Defcription of it. — The 
 arrangements made in it. — Several mandarins vijit the Ambaffador, 
 
 p. no 
 
 C H A P. X, 
 
 Lord Macartney receives notice, that it is the Emperor's pleafure to 
 receive the embaffy at the Imperial refidence in T'artary. — The pcrfons 
 fele^ed to attend the Ambaffador in his progrefs thither. — The par- 
 ticular occupations affigned to thofe ivho were lift at Pekin. — Ar- 
 
 c 2 rangements
 
 ( XX ) 
 
 raftgements for the journey into lartary.-^Leave Pekin ; circum- 
 jiances of the journey. ^. I20 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 Arrive at the town of JVaung-chauyeng. — Defcription of Chlnefe fol- 
 ^ierSf.&c. — Pafs the great wall. — Defer iption of it. — Ihe different 
 appearance of Tartary and China.- — Pafs an extraordinary jnountain. 
 — Arrive at the palace Chaung-chaunuve ; the circumjlances of it.—^ 
 'Example of the indufiry of ihe peafants, and the cultivation of the 
 country. — So77ie account of the tenure by which lands are held in 
 China. — Arrive at the palace of Callachottueng. — Defcription of it. 
 — Arrangements fettled for the manner in which the embajjy was to 
 make its entrance into Jehol, — — ^.1291; 
 
 CHAP. XII- 
 
 .irrive at the palace of Callachotreffangfu. — Stop at one of the 
 Emperor's pagodas. — The public entry into Jehol ; and circumfances 
 oj it. — Defcription of the palace provided for the Brit if h embajy. — A 
 principal mandarin pays a vifit of ceremony to the Ambafjador. — Sin- 
 gular condu£i refpetling the provifons fuppUed for the fuite. — The 
 prefents unpacked and difplayed. — An account, of them^, p. 137 
 
 e H A p. XIII.. 
 
 The prefents removed from the palace. — A notif cation received that the- 
 Emperor would give audience to the Brilif Ambajfador. — Orders 
 ijfued to the fuite on the occafion. — The proccffion 1» ihe Imperial palace: 
 defer ibed. — The Ambajfador' s frf audience of ihe Emperor. — Prefents. 
 received on the occafon. — The Ambajfador's fecond vifit to the 
 Emperor.— Additional prefents. — -Favourable opinions entertained of 
 ihefjiccefs.oftheembajfy,. • ^ P- '^45 
 
 b H A P.
 
 ( xxi ) 
 
 C HAP. XIV. 
 
 'The Ainbajjador vijited by mandmim on the part of the Emperor, to 
 invite him to court on the anniverfary of his Imperial Majefy^ birth- 
 day. — The whole fuite attended on the occafon. — T^he Imperial palace 
 defer the d. — Some account of the Emperor. — A fucccjjlon of prefents. 
 — Biifinefs tranfaSledtvith the Imperial court. — Particular prejent of 
 the Emperor of China to the King of Great Britain. — Defcription of 
 theatrical amufements, — yl Britijh foldier tried by a court-inartial, 
 andpunipieJ, P- ^5^ 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Leave the city offehol. — Defcription of two rocks in its neighbourhood. 
 — Circumfances of the journey . — Arrive at Pekin. Arrangements made 
 there. — Ihe remainder of the prefents prepared to be fent to the Empe- 
 ror. — Sicknefs prevails among the foldiers. — The Ambajfador attends 
 bis Imperial Majejly . — Brief account of his palace. — Further arrange- 
 ments refpeBing the houfehold of the enibajfy. — Prefents to the Em- 
 peror and the grand Choulaa. — The Emperor goes to Teumen- 
 manyeumen to fee the prefents. — His perfon and drefs particularly 
 defer ibed. — Prefents received from court for their Britannic Majejiies. 
 — Circum fiances concerning ihofe which had be en fent to the Emperor.. 
 — Report prevails that the embajfy is to leave Pekin, p. \ 66.) 
 
 c HAP. xvr. 
 
 Orders ijfucd for the. fuite lo prepare for an immediate departure from 
 Pekin.- — The Emperor rcfufes to alloiv of any delay. — Great confii- 
 fion occafioned by this fudden departure.— The embajjy leaves Peking. 
 — Returns to Tong-tchew. — Order of the junks which are to take the 
 embajfy to Canton. — Difficulties refpeSling the baggage. — The iunk^ 
 enttr a canal. — DeJ'cription of it. — Circumjlances of the voyage.— 
 
 KiewiL-
 
 ( xxii ) 
 
 View and cultivation of the country. — The Chinefe pojl defer ibed.—' 
 Pafs through feveral large cities. — A general account of theniy ^.178 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Various circumjlances of the voyage. Enter the Tellow river. — Pafs 
 fever al towns, lakes, &c. — Ceremonies at the city of Kiang-fou. — = 
 Enter the beautiful lake ; defcription of it, — Enter another river ; 
 circumfances of it. Pafs fever al cities^ ^c. — Dockyards for build- 
 ing junks. — Arrive at the city of Mee-you-mee-aivng. — Beautiful 
 country. — Further account of the Chinefe troops, — A mandarines 
 palace and pagoda defcribed, ■ P- ^93 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 The voyage continued. — A fuccejfion of various objeSls. — The elegant 
 attentions of a mandarin to the embajfy. — Captains of the junks punifj- 
 edfor embezzling the proviftons fuppUedfor the ufe of the Ambaffador 
 and bis fuite. — Hufandry of the Chinefe. — Preparations for fending 
 the heavy baggage belonging to the embajfy to Chufan; feveral perfons 
 ordered to accompany it. — Arrive at Hoang-tchew. — Captain Mack~ 
 intojh, and the other gentlemen, fet off for Chufan, — p. 202 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 The Ambaffador, with his fuite, proceed through the city of Hoang-tchew 
 to the Green river, where they embark. — Formalities on the occafon. 
 — Circumfances of the voyage. — 'Defcription of the country. — RefpeSl 
 paid to the Ambaffador.— heave' the junks and proceed by land. — Mode 
 of conveyance, — Return to the junks, — The voyage continued, p. 209 
 
 CHAP.
 
 ( xxixi j 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 'The voyage cotttinucd. — Curious clrcumjlances of the hanks of the rii-er. 
 — The embajfy leaves the junks for vefels of a larger f%e. — Circum- 
 fances of the voyage. — Jlppearajice of the country. — Prefentsjrom the 
 mandarin of Tyaung-fifenna. — Brief account of tombs and Jcpul- 
 chres. — Pafs the town of Saunt-y-taivn, and a clufer of three cities. 
 — Arrive at Chingafoo,, />. 2 16 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 I'he voyage continued ; various circumfances of it. — Pafs the ruins oj 
 an ancient building. — Peculiar modes of ffing in China. — Extraor- 
 dinary cufom of employing birds in catching fijh. — Pafs fever al cities, 
 towns, ^c. — Arrive at Too-je)in-au ; its beautiful ftuation. — The 
 junks anchor before Kaung-jou-foo. — The reception of the Ambaj- 
 fadoty • J>. 224^ 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 The voyage continued. — The manner in xvhich the Chinefe water their 
 
 fields. — Sepulchres. — Change in the appearance of the country. — Leave 
 
 the river at the city of Naung-aumfoo to travel over land. — Circutn- 
 
 fances of the journey.- — Arrive at the city, of Haung-chin-oa. — Some 
 
 account of it. — The Ambajfador re-imbarks to continue the voyage 
 
 down another river, p. 23Z: 
 
 CHAP, xxiir. 
 
 The fuite embarks on board the jti7ih. — 1'he voyage reneived'; circum- 
 fances of it. — A curious pagoda. — Defcription of fepulchres. — Vafi' 
 rafts of timber. — Embark in larger junks. — Pafs fome curious moun- 
 tatns \ a defcription of them. — Extraordinary illumination., p. 240. 
 
 e HA. p..
 
 ( xxiv ) 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 The voyage continued, — 'Defcrlptlon of a curious mountain.— Various 
 circumjlanccs of the river. — Arrive at the city of Tuyng-yau-yean. — 
 Pafs numerous villages^ towns, &c. — Anchor before the city oj 
 Tfyntian. — Arrive at Canton. — "Formalities on the occafon, &c. 
 
 />. 247 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Some account of Canton. — Proceed from thence to Wampoa^ and Ma- 
 coa I brief account of them. — Character of the mandarin Van-Tadge- 
 In. — Circumfances relative to the refidence of the embajfy at Macao. 
 — Sail for England , — — ^.256 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 
 
 Brief account of the pafjage from Hoang-tchew to Chufan^ by Cap- 
 tain Mackintofj, &c. — Various cujloms of the Chinefe, &c. — Mif- 
 cellaneous articles, &c. • p. 269 
 
 '\ic court of the tranf anions of the fquadron during the abfence of the 
 embaffy. 
 
 Gloffary of Chinefe words. 
 
 A N A R-
 
 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE 
 
 TO AND FROM 
 
 CHIN Ay m. &c. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 From Engfand io Batavia. 
 
 Jl( VERY ncceflary arrangement having been made, the Right Hon. 1792. 
 
 Earl Macartney, with his whole fuite, went, from the Point at Portf- fvidlT/ 
 
 mouth, in feveral barges, on board the Lion man of war, then lying Sept. 2u: - 
 at Spithead. 
 
 Hoifted in the launch — fired the fignal gun for all the officers and Sunday 23. 
 men on Ihore to repair on board. 
 
 At eleven A. M. a fignal was made for the Hindoftan and the Jack- Tuefday 2'. 
 all to weigh : the Alfred and Orion of feventy-four guns weighed at 
 the fame time ; and, at five o'clock in die afternoon, we took our final 
 departure from Spithead. 
 
 We got into Torbay, where we found the Hannibal and Niger men Saturday 49. 
 of war. Sir George and Mr. Staunton, with Dr. Gillan, went alliore, 
 and penetrated into the country as far as Exeter j from whence they 
 returned the next day. 
 
 B A leak
 
 1792. 
 
 Wedntfday, 
 Sunday 30. 
 
 Oftober :o. 
 
 ( 2 ) 
 
 A leak was repaired that had fprung in the {ide of the Lion. 
 
 We made land at an early hour of this morning ; and at eight 
 faw the Deferter's Ifland at the diftance of about four leagues; and 
 the ifland of Porto Santo at the di (lance of about three leagues. Thefe 
 iflands are fubjecl to the crown of Portugal, and form a part of the 
 Madeiras : the latter of them is chiefly appropriated as a place of 
 exile for thofe who commit any petty depredations on the ifland of 
 Madeira. It is about fifteen miles in circumference, and very moun- 
 tainous : it contains no harbours ; but has a large bay wherein (hips 
 may be tolerably fecure, except when the wind blows from the fouth- 
 we(t ; and is frequented by Indiamen outward and homeward bound. 
 The ifland produces com, but in no great quantity ; it has alfo paf- 
 turage for cattle; and its thickets furnifli flielterfor wild boars. The 
 inliabitants, who are few in number, are fubjedl to the government 
 of Madeira. The Defart, or Deferter's Ifland, is an inconflderable 
 barren rock, and ferves alfo as a prifon for criminals, who are there 
 obliged to pay the penance of their offences by various kinds of labour. 
 
 Thurfdayii. V/e arrived in Funchal Bay, in the ifland of Madeira, and anchored 
 in forty-four fathom water; the town of Funchal being to the 
 N. N. E. about a mile. 
 
 Friday 12. After breakfafl. Lieutenant Campbell was fent on fliore to the 
 
 governor of the Madeiras, to notify the arrival of Lord Macartney ; 
 and, on the return of that officer, the Lion faluted the garrifon with 
 thirteen guns, which was immediately returned. The Britilh Conful 
 then came on board, attended by feveral Englifli gentlemen, among 
 whom were the moft refpe<ftable merchants of the place, to pay their 
 rcfpe(fks to the Ambaflador, and to uivite him afliore. 
 
 His Lordfliip having accepted of the invitation, the fhip*s company 
 were ordered to get themfelves clean drelTed in white jackets and. 
 trowfers as preparatory for manning the yards : and, as I publifh 
 ihis Narrative, not merely for the ufe of feamen, but for the entertain- 
 
 ment»
 
 ( 3 ) 
 incnt, and, as I hope, for the information of thofe who know nothing 'ro** 
 of maritime Hfe, I Ihall endeavour to explain what is undcrftood by oti ~~ 
 manning the yards ; a ceremonial never obferved but on particular 
 occafions, as well as in honour of diftinguilhed charad:ers, and has 
 not only a very peculiar, but, in fomc degree, a very beautiful eft'ecft. 
 The fliip's company being all equipped in their bell cloathing, the 
 failors ftand upright on the yard-arms, as clofe to each other as the 
 lituation will admit, with their hands clafped together, and their arms 
 extended; ropes being drawn acrofs, to prevent them from falling. 
 In this curious manner the whole yards of the fhip are filled with men 
 up to the main-top-gallant royal. In this po fit ion the fliip's company 
 remained, till Lord Macartney had landed on the ifland. 
 
 On this occalion the matrolTes were drawn up under arms on the 
 larboard lide of the quarter-deck, and the marines on the ftarboard 
 fide, lining both fides of the deck, as far as the accommodation ladder. 
 The troops faluted his Lorddiip as he pafTed from the cabin, and the 
 band of mufic continued playing till he had left the Ihip. Lord 
 Macartney and Sir Erafmus Gower proceeded in one barge, and the 
 gentlemen of the fuite followed in another. The Lion, then fired a 
 I'alute of fifteen guns, which was anfwered by the fame number from 
 the fort on fliore. On this occafion every mark of mutual refpedt was 
 paid, while the Governor of Madeira, with the Britifli Conful and the 
 principal inhabitants, were ready at the landing-place to welcome the 
 AmbafTador on his arrival at the ifland. 
 
 I went on fliore this morning after breakfafl:, with feveral of the Saturday 13. 
 midlhipmen, and landed at Brazen-head rock. Oppofite to this 
 landing-place Itands a rock called the Loo, in which there is a pretty 
 flrong fort, furrounded with a rampart, mounted with feveral pieces 
 of cannon, and garrifoncd with foldiers. This rock is in the form of a 
 pillar, being very high, perpendicular on all fides, and commands the 
 bay : the only entrance ro the fort is by a narrow flight of fleps hewn out 
 of the rock, and properly guarded. It is fituatcd about three quarters of 
 
 B 2 a mile
 
 ( 4 ) 
 
 1792- a mile from the fliore, and in water of near forty fathom, fo thar 
 'Z^^^be^ t^i^^i''^ ^^" ^^ ""^ communication with the land but by means of boats. 
 The lunding-place of the illand is to the north- weft of the Loo rock, 
 and from the depth of the fea, which, at the water's edge, is fifteen 
 flithom, the violence of the furf and the rocky ftiore, is extremely 
 dangerous. Sttps are formed in the rock to afcend to the top of it^ 
 which communicate with the road to Funchal, the principal town of 
 the iiland. 
 
 This road is very rough and narrow, being no more than four feet 
 and an half in breadth, with a low wall on either fide. It firlf leads 
 to an high afcent, on each fide of which are a few unenviable dwel- 
 lings of the lower clafs of inhabitants. On the fucceeding declivity is 
 a fmall church, in the front of which there is an altar and a crofs, 
 which is fuppofed to poffefs fome healing powers of peculiar efficacy, 
 as we faw feveral poor wretches afflid:ed with various difeafes, lying 
 naked there, and expofing their bodies covered with fores and blotches. 
 The church has fo little the appearance of any thing like a place dedi- 
 cated to the wordiip of God, that, till I perceived the crofs, which 
 was its diftinguilhing decoration, it appeared to me to be a barn or 
 ftable ; at the fame time I was informed, that the infide of it was very 
 properly fitted up and fiirniflied for the facred purpofe to which it was 
 dedicated. Its fituation is beautiful beyond defcription : it ftands in 
 a very elevated pofition, commands a very grand and extenfive view 
 of the fea, with Porto Santo and the Dcferter's Ifland ; overlooking, at 
 the fame time, the charming vineyards in its own immediate vicinity.. 
 Many delightful gardens are feen on cither fide of the road, abounding., 
 in delicious fruits; and, on the northern fide of it, the vineyard's. 
 ftretchaway to the extremity of the rock, which poiTefles a perpendi-. 
 cular height of feveral hundred feet above the fea. 
 
 About half a mile beyond' the church is the entrance to the town of 
 Funchal, tluough a gate, from whence a mean, dirty, narrow ftreet. 
 leads to a public walk dilpofed in the form of a garden, which has a,. 
 
 principals
 
 ( 5 ) 
 principal alley or avenue in the center, with orange and other trees on i79»- 
 either fide of it, and lamps placed between them: the whole is October, 
 •erminated by the cathedral church, a lirge Gothic building, which 
 is fitted up in a very fuitablc manner tor the purpofcs of tliat religion 
 to which it is confccrated, 
 
 I went after breakfaft to the houfe of the Britifli Conful, which is in Monday 15;- 
 the neighbourhood of the cathedral ; and faw Lord Macartne)', attended 
 by his whole fuite, among whom was the Hon, Mr. Weft, brother 
 to the Earl of De Lawarr, dreffed in the uniform of the embaff}'', 
 walk, in proccllion to vifit the Governor of the ifland; who received the 
 Ambaflador with every marJc of attention and refpecl, and requeftcd 
 his company to dinner on the fucceeding day. His Lordfhip then 
 returned to the Conful's in the fame order and formality. 
 
 As in the afternoon of this day I completed my view of this place, 
 I Ihall here finifh my account of it. 
 
 Madeira is extremely mountainous, and prcfcnts a moft beautiful • 
 objedl from the bay. It lies between thirty-two and thirty-three de- 
 grees of north latitude, and between eighteen and nineteen degrees of 
 weft longitude fiom London. Its length is feventy-five miles, and its 
 breadth thirty. In the center of the foutheni fide of the ifland, at a 
 fmall diftancc from the fea, and on the firft rife of an amohithcatre 
 of hills, is the town of Funchal : its population is very confi- 
 dcrable, and it contains feveral churches, as well as monafteries 
 of both fexcs, of the different orders of the church of Rome: the 
 houfes are built of ftone, and the greater part of them arc covered 
 with white plafter, and generally roofed with tdes : the ftrcets are 
 very narrow, ill paved, and dirty, having no foot-path for paffengers,. 
 with all the inconvenience arifing from unequal ground and continual 
 declivity. Except the reiidcnce of the Governor, and of the Bri- 
 tifli Conful, and the houfes of fome principal merchants,- glafs is an 
 article of very rare ufe : the houfes are in general about three ftories ■ 
 high, with lattice windows, and balconies in the front, where the- 
 female inhabitants are continually fccn to amufe themfelves in obfcrv-- 
 
 * -"00
 
 ( 6 ) 
 
 1792. i"g what happens in the ftrects, or converfing with thofe who arc 
 
 "oouber^ paffing along. There are neither courts, fquares, or principal flreets 
 
 in this town; the whole place compofing a fcene of architectural 
 
 deformity. The cuftom-houfe, which is on the fea fide, is furrounded 
 
 by a rampart mounted with cannon, and contains barracks forfoldiers. 
 
 The town is about three miles in length, and one in breadth. Its 
 inhabitants confiil of Portuguefe, mulattoes, negroes, and a few Eng- 
 lilTi, who refidc there for the purpoies of commerce. The wine oi 
 this ifland, fo well known for its cordial and peculiar qualities, is the . 
 great objedl of its trade, and the principal fource of its riches. The 
 drefs of the poorer fort of people is a kind of cap, made of cloth, 
 which they wear initead of an hat, a Ihort jacket, and ciuinfy 
 troufers, with a kind of boots ot coarfe undrefled leather; though 
 many of the lower clafs are feen almofl naked, and manifefl no 
 common appearance of diftrefs and mifery. The religion is catholic, 
 and the clergy poflefs the fiime power as in the mother country. The 
 natives are of a very courteous difpofition, and treat ftrangers with 
 all the pundiilio of refped: and politenefs. 
 
 No carriages are kept in this ifland, but by the Governor and the 
 Britifli Conful : the fubflitute for them, among the higher order of 
 the inhabitants, is a very fine filk net, of various colours, capable of 
 containing a perfon to fit in it : it is borne by two men, by means 
 of a long pole run through the four corners, which draws the 
 net clofe on each fide like a purfe ; a filk curtain is then thrown over 
 the pole, that entirely obfcurcs the perfon who fits in this curious 
 vehicle, which is the elegant mode of conveyance in vifits of cere- 
 mony, and to the occafional entcrtaininents of the place. Thefe, 
 however, are always in private houfes, as there are no theatres, or 
 any places ot public entertainment, except the public garden, where 
 tlicre are frequent exhibitions of the moll: brilliant fire-works. 
 
 There are very few horfes in this ifland ; mules and oxen being 
 principally employed both for draught and burden : nor is it eafy tb 
 
 4 conceive
 
 ( 7 ) 
 
 conceive the fagacity and agility of thcfe animals in adapting their »79*- 
 powers to the inequalities of this very mountainous countr)'. October. 
 
 The militaiy cftahliflimcnt of the Madeiras is very limited, and 
 does notconfift of more than three hundred men. The native militia, 
 however, are numerous, but they are never embodied, except in time 
 of danger andalirm, Thefe foldicrs are moft wretciiedly clothed; 
 the regimental confifting of a very coarfc blue jacket, with a vcfl and 
 breeches of the fame colour ; the whole bound with a coarfe yellow 
 worfted lace, and enlivened with red facing. They wear on their 
 heads a kind of leathern helmet j but the artillery foldicrs are dif- 
 tinguifhed by hats: 'their arms and accoutrements are of the worft 
 kind, and kept in the worft order: in fhort, fuch was their appearance, 
 that when fome of our matrolTes and light horfemcn were permitted 
 to go on fhore, the inhabitants, from the fuperiority of their appear- 
 ance, could not be perfuaded but that they were all officers in the 
 Britilh fervice. 
 
 The town is defended towards the Tea, from eaft to weft, by a 
 ftrong wall, mounted with cannon, and a fort at either end. The 
 climate of Madeira is well known for its fidubrious influence, as, 
 excepting the month of January, when there are frequent rains, 
 accompanied with violent thunder, it feldom undergoes any change of 
 feafon. Thofe who have money may purchafe here, as in other places, 
 all the luxuries of life j but they in general bear a very extravagant 
 price, though the firft people live in a ftile of great plenty and elegance. 
 Even the wine, which, as it is the produce of the fpot, might 
 naturally be fuppofeJ to be purchafed at a reafonable rate, could 
 not be obtained by us for Icfs than four Ihillings a bottle. This 
 iftand, however, notwithftanding its mountainous ftate, muft be 
 confidered, altogether, as a very fertile colony; and, as a pid:urefque 
 objeft, nothing can exceed the romantic and beautiful views it con- 
 tains, and the dclirhtful fpots that are covered with gardens and vine- 
 yards. 
 
 Lord
 
 ( 8 ) 
 
 ' . ' Lord Macartney, with the principal people of the ifland, were very 
 
 oa:)ber 16. handfomcly entertained by the Britifh Conllil, at dinner; and, in the 
 evening, Mr. Scot, an Enghfli merchant, gave a ball and flipper, in 
 honour of his Lordfliip, which wanted nothing, in point of elegant 
 holpitality, that our -country can ai¥brd. The Englilh fervants alio 
 partook ot the attention paid to their Lord, and were entertained with 
 the greatcil plenty, and in the mofl agreeable manner, beneath the fame 
 ru3of. 
 
 Wednef- We, this morning, paid a vifit to a convent of ladies, about three 
 
 miles to the eafi: of Funehal, It is a very handiome building, fituated 
 near the fummit of an hill, and in the midft of vineyards, commanding 
 a mofl beautiful, various, and exteniive profpert ; comprehending 
 the adjacent country covered with gardens, the town of Funchal, and 
 an expanlive view of the ocean. — Here the nuns are permitted to con- 
 verfe very freely with flrangcrs, whom they cqmpliment with toys, 
 and other articles of their own manufad:ure. I faw among them 
 feveral very pretty women; who, as far as i could judge by their 
 inanncrs, feemed to regret the lofs of that fociety for which they 
 were formed, and to figh after a communication with the world, 
 which they were qualified to adorn. 
 
 Having taken a particular view of this charming fpot, we pro- 
 ceeded to the country rcfidence of the Governor, where Lord Ma- 
 cartney and his fuite had been invited to dinner. This entertain- 
 ment confirted of three very fplendid courfes of fifty diflies ; and at 
 a certain part of it. Lord Macartney propofed to drink the health of 
 the King and the Royal Family of England; which, being notified 
 by a fignal, the Lion, at that inftant, fired a royal falute of twenty-one 
 guns ; and was immediately anfwered by the fame number of guns 
 from the fort. The Governor then obferyed the fame ceremony re- 
 fpecling the Royal Family of Portugal, which was followed by the 
 fame fdutes from the Portuguefe battery and Englifli man of war. A 
 very fine diiplay of fire-,work.s concluded the entertainment, which 
 
 was
 
 ( 9 ) 
 
 was equally to the honour of the dillinguiflied perfons who gave and i-v-- 
 received it. oaobcr. 
 
 We returned on hoard, where we found fevcral friars, whofc Thurfday i8. 
 curiolity had led them to take a view of the lliip; where they were 
 received with that kindnefs and hofpitality as to call forth the mofl 
 grateful cxpreflions; and to chtain from them, all they had to give, 
 their repeated benedidtions. 
 
 The entire forenoon of this day was employed in making prepara- 
 tions for a breakfall in the ward-room, to which Lord Macartney 
 had invited the Governor of the ifland, the Britilh Conful, and the 
 principal inhabitants. This entertainment confiflcd of tea, coffee, 
 and chocolate; cold meats of all kinds, with fruits, jellies, and variety 
 of wines : the whole being decorated with ornamental confedionary. 
 About noon Lord Macartney returned on board the Lion, with the 
 ufual formalities ; and was ibon followed by the Governor, with his 
 attendants, in very elegant barges. The biiliop of Fuuchal accom- 
 panied him on the occafion. I'he Briti(h Conful arrived foon after 
 them. The company then partook of the repaft, during which the 
 healths of the royal families of England and Portugal were drank 
 with becoming ceremony ; and, having taken a view of the fliip, 
 they returned on lliore. In the evening we weighed anchor, and quit- 
 ted Madeira. 
 
 At five in the afternoon wc law the extreme points of Tcneriffc ; Saturday 20. 
 at midnight we faw the eall point of that illand ; and, early in the 
 morning, ilood in for land. 
 
 We anchored in twenty-two fathom water in Santa Cru^; bay; Sunda) st. 
 where we found a French frigate, who had called here on her home- 
 ward bound paflage from the Weft Indies ; but, in confcquence of the 
 revolution in France, Ihe was detained till the pleaihre of his 
 Catholic Majefly fliould be known, rcfpeding the part he intended 
 to take with the confederated powers, then at war with the national 
 
 C anfemblr.
 
 ( 10 ) 
 
 179*. aflembly. The Governor being then at the Grand Canary iflancJ, 
 "o^^i^^ and the Commandant intorming Lieutenant Campbell, that there was 
 not a fufficient quantity of powder in the magazine to admit of a 
 falute, that ceremonial was waved on the prefent occafion. 
 
 The ifland of Teneriffe is one of the Canary iflands, and fubje(5l 
 to the Kmg of Spain. It lies between twenty-eight and twenty-nine 
 degrees north latitude, ana between feventeen and eighteen degrees 
 weft longitude. It is about fifty miles in length, tweiuy-five in 
 breadth, and one hundred and fifty in circumference. Though it is 
 the fecond in point of precedence, it is the moft confiderable with 
 refped: to extent, riches, and commerce. 1 he principal place in this 
 ifland is the city of Laguna, and is the refidence of the Governor i 
 but as we did not vifit it, I Iball confine myfelf to the defcription of 
 Santa Cruz, before which we lay at anchor. 
 
 This town lies on the north-eaft fide of the ifland, and has an haven 
 for fliippingi the befl: anchorage not being more than half a mile from 
 Ihore, and very deep, with a rocky bottom. The fhore is bold and 
 lleep, with the peak, which renders this ifland fo famous, rifing beyond 
 it to the clouds. 
 
 Santa Cruz is about three quarters of a mile in length, and half a 
 mile in breadth: the houfes are llrongly built of flone, and in the 
 fame fafhion as thofe of Madeira. It has feveral neat churches, two 
 of which being decorated with large, fquare, and lofty towers, 
 add much to the effedl of the town from the bay. There is one 
 pretty good ftreet, and not inconveniently paved ; but the reft anfwer 
 to no other charadler than that of dirty lanes. There are two forts 
 at the eaftern and weflern end of the town which command the bay. 
 There are but few troops in this or any of its fifter iflands, and they 
 are equally deficient in cloathing, equipment, and discipline. The 
 militia is numerous, but never embodied, or called forth, except on 
 very particular emergencies. The town, though by no means large, 
 is very populous : the inhabitants are chiefly Spanifli, and fuffcr all the 
 
 difadvantages
 
 ( '' ) 
 
 djfadvantagcs that arifc from the proverbial pride and indolence of 
 their charader : for, notwithflaiiding the abundant fertility of this 
 illand, which yields the greatefl plenty to the frnallen: exertions, the 
 general appearance of the people mofl evidcniiy betray their poverty 
 and wretchednefs. There is another fort to the wefl: of Santa Cruz, 
 on a very elevated point, which appears to be built with great ftrcngth, 
 and commands a part of the bay. 
 
 . ' 
 
 The chmate of this ifland is warm, and, hke that of Madeira, 
 not fubjed to change. During our ftay here, the thermometer flood 
 in the Ihade, from leventy to eighty degrees, varying a little, on board 
 the Ihip. The Governor refides chiefly at the ifland diliinguilhed by 
 the name of the Grand Canary, about twelve or fifteen leagues diflant 
 from Tenerifi'e. 
 
 Sir George and Mr. Staunton, with the Dodlors Gillan, Dinwid- 
 dle, and Not, MefTeurs Maxwell, Barrow, and Alexander, together 
 with Colonel Ben fon, having formed a plan to vifit the peak; they 
 fet out at eight o'clock in the morning of this day, from the hotel at 
 Santa Cruz, with every proper aid and provifion to carry the defign 
 into execution. The thermometer then flood at feventy-feven degrees. 
 They proceeded on mules, and under the diredion of guides hired 
 for the purpofe, with little or no interruption, till they had ad- 
 vanced about eight miles up the mountain, when the air became fo 
 cold, that every one was glad to make fome addition to his cloathino- ; 
 at the fame time the thermometer had fallen upwards of twenty degrees. 
 Here the party added fome very neceflfary refrefliment to the change 
 in their drefs, and then proceeded on their journey till they arrived 
 at the foot of the peak, which was entirely covered with fnow, 
 fix feet in depth : but difficulties every moment occurred to impede 
 their progrefs ; Sir George Staunton had been thrown from his mule 
 at a moment of great danger j the animal on which Dodor Gillan 
 rode, had fallen with him, and it was at length determined, from 
 the awful appearance of the journey before them, the exhaiifled con- 
 dition of the party, and the late hour of the evening, to pafs the night 
 
 C z 
 
 Wednef- 
 day »4. 
 
 on
 
 ( ^^ ) 
 
 on the mountam. A kind of rude pavilion, therefore, was formed by 
 a fail, Vvhich, being lined with cloaks, and great coats, foon produced 
 a comfortable apartment. A fire was then kindled near the tent ; and 
 after taking an hafly ("upper, every one laid himlelf down to repofe. 
 
 Tb^^^■W3y^»5. At fix o'clock in tlic morning, the arduous journey was renewed ; 
 the thermometer being at that time confiderably below the freezing 
 point — which, after infinite fatigue and confiderable hazard, proved 
 iVuitlefs as to its principal object ; and about three o'clock in the 
 afternoon, the different gentlemen of the party, who had taken dif- 
 ferent ways to afcend the peak, were,, at length, happily re-afTcmbled' 
 at the place where the mules had been ftationed. It was, however^, 
 necefiary, as the diftancc from Santa Cruz was at leaft eleven or 
 twelve miles, to pafs the night of this day, as we had pafled the pre^ 
 ceding one; and, on the following morning, the party returned to 
 Santa Cruz, after a moft fatiguing expedition of two days and two 
 nights, ia which curiofity, at leaft, had received confiderable gratifi- 
 cation. 
 
 The peak of Tenerif^e is one of the higheft mountains in the world, 
 and may be feen at the diftance of an hundred miles. It rifes in the 
 center of the ifiand, and takes its afcent from Santa Cruz and Ora— 
 tavia, another principal town of this illand, in an oblique direftion 
 for near twenty miles ; being furrounded by a great number of infe- 
 rior mountains. I'he lower parts towards Santa Cruz, are covered 
 with woods and vineyards ; its middle is clad in fnow, and the top 
 difcmbogues flames from a volcano, which the natives. call the Devil's 
 Cauldron. In travelhng to the peak, the befi; v.ay is on the fide of 
 Oratavia, both as to the convenience of afcent, and the confequent 
 diminution of danger. In fome parts of the mountain there are hot, 
 burning fands ; in other places there is fnow ; and to. that fucceeds 
 a ftrong fulphurous vapour. Though the top of the peak, from its 
 great heigbt, appears to finifii in a point, it contains a flat furface of 
 at leaft an acre of ground. We experienced three diftindl changes of 
 climate in the courle of our journey. In the firft ftage of it the air ia 
 1 , warm 
 
 3-
 
 ( »3 ) 
 
 Warm, to that fucceeds intenfc cold, which Is followed by a volcanic- i-j^j. 
 heat. The bottom is continual fertility, the middle is fnow and frofl, o^J^^^T"^ 
 and the top is fmokc and jBamcs ; giving the fucceflivc effedts of a 
 garden, an icc-houfe, and a furnace. 
 
 Soon after our return to Santa Cruz, a fignal was given for our J-'i^ayad* 
 going on board, which was obeyed with all poflible expedition. On 
 our return to the fliip, we found feveral young ladies,^ inhabitants of . 
 the ifland, who, having been educated in England, were naturally 
 induced to vifit a fhip belonging to a country to which they 
 apparently owed the fincerclt acknowlegemcnts. They were, 
 received with the greatefl politencfs by Lord Macartney ; and 
 the band of mufic was ordered to play during the whole of their 
 very agreeable vifit^ 
 
 The French frigate, which we have already mentioned as detained 
 here, was, this day, releafed from its embargo, and iat fail from the 
 illand.. 
 
 About eleven o'clock at night the wind blew a very frefh gale, and 
 the Indoltan drifted, fo fafl towards the fliore, that it was thought 
 prudent to let go her fheet anchor. But this precaution was not 
 fufficient to prevent the danger from becoming io imminent, that 
 Captain Mackintolh fired a gun for affiftance from the Lion j when 
 Sir Erafmus Gower immediately ordered off three boats, by whofe 
 exertions the Indoftan was difengaged from her unpleafant fituation, 
 wherr flie put to fca ; after having loft her anchors, from the rubbing 
 ©f tht cables againft the rocky bottom.. 
 
 At one in the morning we weighed anchor, and took our leave of s.^tur.-fay 27-.. 
 Santa Cruz. 
 
 At three in the afternoon we faw IVfayo, one of the Cape de Vcrd November, 
 iilunds, bearing W. S. W, at the diftance of four or five leagues. "' ^^ ^" 
 Hove too, and hoiftcd out the launch. At fevcn, wc fpoke to a fhip 
 
 trom>
 
 ( 14 ) 
 
 179*^ from Topfliam, in Devonfliire, which had been out thirty-two days. 
 
 November. At eight in the evening, the town of Saint jago, a town of the 
 
 illand of that name, bore north, half weft, feven miles ; and, at 
 
 three quarters after eleven, we came too in Port Praya bay. The 
 
 thermometer at noon ftood at 82 degrees. 
 
 Saturday 3. After the ufual falutes, feveral boats were employed in watering. 
 The Seine was alfo hauled, and freih fifh fcrved to the (hip's com- 
 pany. 
 
 Monday 5. Lord Macartney went on fliore in a private manner ; and, after a 
 fhort (lay, returned to the Lion. 
 
 Tuefday 6. This day arrived three French and one American South-fea whale 
 fi(hermen. — A canoe came along-fide the Lion, with grapes, cocoa- 
 nuts, and other fruits, for fale. This is the only kind of boat ufcd in 
 theie iflands, and nothing could exceed, in the exterior appearances of 
 wetchednefs, the owner of it. The thermometer ftood, this day, on 
 fliore, at 90. 
 
 Wcdnefday;. Several of the men belonging to the corps of artillery went on (hore 
 to wafh and dry their linen ; when they returned extremely fcorched, 
 and their legs covered with blotches, from ftanding in the burning 
 fands. Having given my linen to be wa(hed by a man of Praya, 
 and having reafon to apprehend, that I might (hare the fate of others, 
 who had not found the natives of the country perfedlly corredt in 
 their returns, I went in queft of my waflierman, and was obliged to 
 be content, not only with paying an exorbitant price for what he had 
 done very ill, but with the lofs of feveral articles which he could not 
 be periuatled to reftore. I, however, took this opportunity of view- 
 ing the town of Praya ; in which there is very little to excite curi- 
 ofity, or encourage defcription. 
 
 Saint Jago is the largeft of the Cape de Verd iflands, which lie be- 
 tween twenty-three and tvvcnty-fix degrees of weft longitude, and be- 
 4 twecn
 
 ( 15 ) 
 
 tween fourteen and eighteen north latitude. It is Very mountainous, 1792. 
 and has much barren land on it; nevcrthclcfs, it is the mo ft fruitful i^^ovuiiuci'. 
 and beft inhabited of them all — and is the rcfidcncc of the Viceroy, or 
 Governor. 
 
 Praya is fituated on the call fide of the illand, and is built on the 
 top of a flat hill, about an hundred yards above the furface of the bay ; 
 having a miferable fort on the wcflcrn iide, which, however, fuch as 
 it is, commands the entrance into it. The only landing place is 
 oppofite the Governor's houfc, which is fituated in a confiderable 
 valley, formed hy two large mountains. A very rugged and afcend- 
 ing path, of about a quarter of a mile, and taking an eafterly direc- 
 tion, leads to an arched gate-way, which forms the entrance to the 
 town ; a mean and miferable place, confifling of nothing more than one 
 wideftrect, aboul half a mile in length, formed of low houfes, built of 
 ftone and mud, and covered with trees; and, except two, reach not 
 beyond the firft itory. The furniture of fuch as vv^ could look into, 
 was perfedly fuited to the exterior appearance ; conlifting of nothing 
 more than planks, which anfwered the double purpofe of feats and 
 tables, while the beds were as humble as folitary ftravv could make 
 them. There is but one fliop, and one public houfe in the town; 
 and the former is as deficient in point of commodities, as the other is 
 incapable of convenient accommodation. The church, and the go- 
 vernor's houfe partake of the general appearance of the place. The 
 natives are all negroes, who fpeak the Portuguefe language, with 
 an intermixture of exiles, banilhed from the Brazils and the 
 Madeiras for capital offences. There is one convent in the illand, 
 and the whole is fubjed; to the fpiritual jurifdidion of a Popifh 
 bifhop. 
 
 There appears to be great plenty of goats here, but the fcorch- 
 ing heat of tlie climate, and the confequent fcarcity of every kind 
 of herbage, is not calculated to give them a very thriving appear- 
 ance. 
 
 Praya
 
 '79'" 
 ^n . 
 
 November. 
 
 Sunday 18. 
 
 December, 
 Saturday I. 
 
 Sunday e. 
 
 ( 16 ) 
 
 Praya has 2 good port, and is feldom witliout fliips; thofe outward 
 bound to Guinea or the Eaft-Indies, from England, Holland, and 
 France, frequently touching here for water and refrefliments. 
 
 While we were rambling about this miferable place, we heard the 
 fignal to repair on board, and, haftening to the fliore, found a boat 
 waiting to receive us, and a crowd of the naked inhabitants (landing 
 there with their fruits for fale, — At noon we left Port Praya. 
 
 At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, we found ourfelves under the 
 Equator, where the burlefque and ridiculous ceremonies frequently 
 allowed hy the coqimanding officers of fliips were completely ob- 
 ferved, by permiffion of Sir Erafmus Gpwer, to the great entertain- 
 ment of the ilrip's company, 
 
 At five o'clock in the afternoon, we came to anchor in the Rio 
 Janeiro harbour, in fifteen fathom water. PafTed by this afternoon 
 into the harbour the Hero of London, a South-fea whaler, from the 
 South-feas, bound for London. A great many fliips were at this 
 time at anchor in the river, and, among the reft, was a Portuguefe 
 Eaft-Indiaman homeward bound ; by whom it was intended to have 
 fent letters to England, by way of Lilbon, had not the arrival of the 
 Hero afforded a more ready, as well as more fecure conveyance. 
 
 The country offers from the river a moft delightful profpecft, con- 
 fifting of a fine range of hills covered with wood, whofe intcA'ening 
 vallies are adorned with ftately villas, affording at once a fcene of ele- 
 gance, richnefs, and beauty. 
 
 The cutter was hoifted out, and the firft lieutenant difpatched on 
 fliore, to acquaint the Viceroy with the arrival of the Ambaffador, and 
 to demand the fakite ; but, as that officer was at his country refidcnce, 
 the ufual formalities were-ijeceffarily fufpended. 
 
 In
 
 ( ^7 ) 
 In the morning of this day, the deputy viceroy came, accompa- '79^- 
 nied with guards and attendants, in elegant barges, to wait on Lord ixxcmbcr. 
 Macartney, to know his intentions, and to acquaint him with the "" ^^ ^' 
 regulations to which all foreigners muft: fubmit on landing at Rio 
 Janeiro. But, his Lordfhip having been for fomc time afflidled with 
 the gout, and flill remaining very much indifpofed, Sir George 
 Staunton and Sir Erafmus Gower received the deputy viceroy, who, 
 after an introdudory conference, partook of a cold collation, and 
 returned on flaore. 
 
 The deputy viceroy, with his attendants, paid a fccond vifit to the Tuefday 4, 
 fliip, and accompanied the general meflage of congratulation from 
 the Viceroy to the Ambafl'ador, on his arrival at the Brazils, with an 
 invitation to accept of an houfe for his refidence, during the time he 
 might find it necelTary to flay there. This obliging propofition was 
 accepted by Lord Macartney ; and Sir George Staunton went on fliore 
 to make the necelTary preparations for his reception, as foon as he 
 lliGuId be fufficiently recovered to quit the fliip. 
 
 The Viceroy's fecretary, attended by feveral gentlemen, came on Thurfday6: 
 board the Lion to inquire when the AmbafTador would come on fhore; 
 who was pleafed to appoint the following day at one o'clock, to 
 make his entrance into the city of Rio Janeiro. 
 
 At noon, Sir Erafmus Gower having been on fliorc to notify to Friday ;. 
 tke Viceroy that Lord Macartney was ready to land, he returned to 
 the Lion in order to condudl him ; and they foon arrived with all the 
 ceremonials fuited to the occafion. The landing-place, which is im- 
 mediately oppofite to the Viceroy's palace, was lined on each iidc by a 
 regiment of horfe, and the Viceroy's body-guards. The Viceroy him- 
 felf was alfo there with his official attendants, and he mofl diflin- 
 guiflied perfons of the cit}^ to receive the Amballador, who was con- 
 duced along the line, and diftinguiflied by every niilitary honour. 
 Tlie ceremony had altogether a very grand appearance, and a 
 
 D prodigious
 
 ( i8 ) 
 
 179*- prodigious crowd of people had affembled to be fpedlators of if. 
 December. They then proceeded to the palace of the Viceroy, and paffed through 
 a large hall lined with foldiers under arms, and enlivened by the 
 found of martial mufic, to the fiate apartments. Here the com- 
 pany remained for fome time, when Lord Macartney and Sir George 
 Staunton were conducted to the Viceroy's ftate coach; Sir Erafmua 
 Gower and Capt. Mackintofli were placed in a fecond ; and the 
 whole Britifh fuite being accommodated with carriages, the cavalcade 
 fet off, efcorted by a troop of light cavalry, to the houfe appointed for 
 Lord Macartney's reception, which is about two miles from the city : 
 the AmbalTador receiving, as he pafl'ed, every honour due to the high 
 charad:er with which he was inverted. A captain's guard, appointed 
 by the Viceroy, was alfo drawn up in the front of the houfe, who 
 received the Britifh vifitors with colours flying and mufic playing, 
 and every military diilind:ion. Thus concluded the ceremony of the 
 AmbalTador's reception at Rio Janeiro. 
 
 It would not only be tedious, but altogether unnecefifary, to men- 
 tion the common daily occurrences during our flay at the Brazils; 
 I fliall, therefore, confine myfelf altogether to fuch circumftances, as 
 from their novelty and importance may intereft the mind, and re- 
 ward, in fome degree, the attention, of the reader. 
 
 , Monday lo, Lord Macartney, with his whole fuite, paid a vifit of ceremony to 
 the Viceroy, and was received with every mark of attention and re- 
 fpe<ft. The gentlemen who attended on the occafion, afterwards 
 dined with his Lordfliip ; and, in the evening, vifited the public 
 garden of the place : this garden is about half a mile in length, and 
 half that fpace in breadth ; it is furrounded by a ftrong high wall, and 
 guarded at the entrance by a party of foldiers. The interior difpofition 
 confifls of large grafs-plots and gravel walks, agreeably fliaded with 
 trees, and perfumed with flowers. In the center is a large bafon of 
 water, and a great number of lamps are placed between th.e trees, on 
 each fide of the walks, for the purpofc of illumination. At one end 
 3 of
 
 ( '9 ) 
 
 of the garden is a large building for balls and mufic; but, as the '79«- 
 feafon of amufcmcnt at this place was paiTcd when we were there, Dcccmtxi. 
 wc muft be content with giving a defcription of the fpot, without 
 fpcaking of the divcrfionG to which, at certain feafons of the year, 
 it is applied, as wc doubt not, to the recreation of the inhabitants. 
 
 All pofTible preparation was made in the long gallery and great Tuefdayn. 
 room of Lord Macartney's houfe to receive the Viceroy, who ha«J given 
 notice of his intention to return the AmbafTador's vifit in the morning 
 of this day. At ten o'clock. Sir Erafmus Gower, with the officers 
 from the Lion, drefTed in their beft uniforms, as well as Capt. 
 Mackintofla, with the officers of the Hindollan, came on fhore to 
 attend the ceremony. 
 
 At eleven, the Viceroy's departure from his palace was announced 
 by a difcharge of artillery from the garrifonj when the guard, ap- 
 pointed by the Viceroy to attend the Britifli Ambaflador, immediately 
 paraded in front of the houfe ; and, in about half an hour, the V^iceroy 
 arrived in grand proceflion, preceded and followed by a fquadron 
 of horfc, and attended by all the principal officers and perfons of dif- 
 tinttion in the city. His Excellency was received at the door of the 
 houfe by Lord Macartney, and condud:ed to a fofa at the upper end 
 of the beft apartment. Sir George Staunton then prefcnted all the 
 gentlemen attached to the embalTy, according to their refpedlive rank, 
 to the Viceroy ; who, after partaking of a very elegant repafl prepared 
 for him and his company, returned in the fame form, and with the 
 fame ceremonies, as dillinguilhed his arrival. 
 
 The drefs of the Viceroy was fcarlct cloth, very much enriched 
 with gold, embroidery, and precious flones ; his attendants wore a 
 fplendid livery of green and gold, and he had feveral black running 
 footmen, who were drelfed in fancy uniforms, with large turbans on 
 their heads, and long fabrcs by their fides. 
 
 D s This
 
 ( 20 ) 
 
 t. ^'^^' J This morning, at an early hour. Sir George and Mr. Staunton, 
 ^Vedn'^r' ^^^on^panied by Mr. Barrow and a Portuguefe gentleman, let off on a 
 day 12. Ihort excurlion into the country. At the fame time, I took an oppor- 
 tunity of vifiting the place, of which 1 Ihall now proceed to give fuch 
 a defcription, as my capacity for obfervation will enable me.. 
 
 This city, which is by fome called Saint Seballian, and by others,. 
 Rio Janeiro, ftands on the weft fide of the harbour of the latter name, 
 in a low fituation, and almoft furrounded by hills, which, by retard- 
 ing the circulation of the air, renders the place very unfalutary to 
 European conftitutions. Its extent is very conliderable, being from 
 eaft to weft about four miles in length, and from north to fouth about 
 two miles in breadth. The ftreets, for there are no fquares, are very 
 regular and uniform, interfering each other at right angles : they 
 are well paved, abound in Ihops of every kind, and are compofed of 
 houfes equally well built, and' adapted to the climate. In the center 
 of the city, and oppofite to the beach, ftands the palace of the Vice- 
 roy: it is a large, long, and narrow building, without any attradtion 
 from its exterior appearance, but contains within a fucceffion of 
 fpacious and noble apartments. It confilts only of two ftories ; the 
 lower one being appropriated to the domeftics and menial officers, and 
 the upper range of building containing the apartments of the Viceroy: 
 it is built of rough ftone, plaiftered with lime, and covered with pan- 
 tiles. The Viceroy's chapel is a neat edifice, near thfe palace, but 
 detached from it. The ftreets are not only Ipaicious and convenient, 
 but remarkable for their cleanlinefs; many of them containing ranges 
 of {hops and warehoufes that would do credit to the cities of Europe. 
 There is a cuftom here, which appears to be worthy of imitation in 
 all places of confiderable trade and commerce, that all perfons of the 
 fame profeifion occupy the fame ftreet or diftrid: ; and a deviation 
 from this rule is very rarely known in this city. Of the population of 
 this place, I could not procure any accurate information, but from its 
 extent, and the general obfervations 1 was enabled to make, it may, 
 I think, be confidcred, without exaggeration, as amounting to two 
 2 hundred
 
 ( 21 ) 
 
 hundred thoufand fouls. The people, who arc Roman Catholics, are 179*- 
 very much attached to the ceremonials of their religion, which they December, 
 obferve with extreme fuperftition. The churches are very numerous, 
 and fitted up with oftentatious finery. On the fefiivals of their pa- 
 trons thefe edifices are richly adorned, and beautifully illuminated. 
 Some of them, indeed, during our flay, were lighted up with fo much 
 iplendor, as tb offer a very ftriking fpedtacle, and to bear the appear- 
 ance rather of a public rejoicing, than a partial a<5l of parochial devo- 
 tion. Near the middle of the city, and on a commanding eminence, 
 there is a public oVfervatory furnifhed with an aftronomical appa- 
 ratus. 
 
 The inhabitants are very oflentatious in their drefs ; and every rank 
 of people are in the habit of confidering fwords as effential to their 
 public appearance ; even children are not confidered as exempt from 
 this ornamental weapon. The drefs of the ladies bears a near refem- 
 blance to that of European women, except in the decoration of the 
 head. Their hair is fmoothed back in the front, and adorned with 
 artificial flowers, beads, and feathers, fantaflically arranged ; behind, 
 it falls down in a variety of plaited treffes, intermixed with ribbons of 
 various colours, each trefs terminating in a rofe made of ribbon. 
 They alfo w^ear a large mantle of filk, hanging loofely behind in 
 the form of a train, which is borne by one fervant, while another 
 holds an umbrella to fliade the face of his miftrefs from the fun. 
 The females of Brazil are generally of a pale complexion, but have a 
 certain delicacy of feature which renders them very pleafing objedis; 
 and the aftability of their manners heightens the agreeablenefs of their 
 perfonal attradions. 
 
 The trade of this place is very confiderable, and the fource of great 
 wealth to the inhabitants, as well as to the mother country. The 
 various articles which are exported from hence, are the fame as thofe 
 produced in other parts of the Portuguefe fettlements in Brazil. The 
 wharfs arc very large and peculiarly commodious ; and we were 
 
 very
 
 ( 2^- ) 
 
 1792- very much amufed on obferving the dexterity with which the flaves 
 December, loaded and unloaded the barges tliat lay along fide them. The rice, 
 of which great quantities appeared to be exported from this fettlement, 
 was all contained in undrefled bullock's hides. 
 
 At a fmall diftance from the city, on the Mefl: fide of it, is a large 
 convent, but more rem.arkable for ftrength than elegance. It is built 
 round feveral quadrangular courts, paved with large flat flones, fur- 
 rounded by piazzas, and kept in a flate of perfect cleanlinefs. It is 
 divided into two parts, each containing a great number of apartments, 
 each part being refpedlively appropriated to a religious community of 
 either fex. 
 
 The perfons who compofed Lord Macartney's fuite were indulged 
 with the permiifion to vifit this convent, and the nuns took oppor- 
 tunities to throw out to them a variety of little elegant toys of their 
 own fabric. Nor had even their confined and devoted fituation 
 prevented them from knowing the art of manufadiuring another kind, 
 of article, called billets doux, which they contrived to have conveyed 
 to fome of the Englifli vifitors. They even applied to Lord Macart- 
 ney, by the director of the convent, for the ufe of his band of mufic, 
 which accordingly performed at feveral morning concerts, within 
 thefe facred walls. There is alfo a very fpacious garden, where the 
 religious ladies are allowed to enjoy fuch recreation as they can find in 
 a place, furrounded with walls of at leaft forty feet in height ; 
 which, as if they did not form a fufficient fecurity, are conilantly 
 guarded on the outfide by a party of foldiera. 
 
 On the north-weft fide of the town there is a ftupendous aquedud:, 
 \vhich is an objed: of uncommon curiofity. It is in the form of a 
 •bridge, contains eighty arches, and in fome parts is, at leaft, one 
 hundred and fifty feet in height ; ^nd is feen, in fome points of view, 
 with peculiar effedt, rifing gradually above the loftieft buildings of 
 the city. This immenfe chain of arches ftretches acrofs a valley, and 
 unites the hills that form it. The objedl for which it was eredled is 
 completely anfvvered, as it conveys water from perennial fprings, at 
 
 the
 
 ( ^3 ) 
 fhe diftancc of five miles, into the town, wlicrc, by means of leaden ^79«- 
 
 pipes, it is conducted to a large and elegant refcrvoir at the beach, December, 
 oppofite to the Viceroy's palace. This water is of the beft quality, 
 and is withal fo very abundant, as not only to afford an adequate 
 iiipply for all the wants of the inhabitants, but to furnifh the fliips 
 liiat come into the harbour with this neceflary element. 
 
 The military eftabliflrment at Rio Janeiro is on a very refpedable 
 footing. The foldiers are not only well cloathed and difciplined, but 
 are allowed to enjoy all the privileges of citizens. It feems to be a^ 
 policy of the Portuguefe government, and a very wife one it is, to 
 render the fituation of the foldiery in their American fettlements, not 
 only comfortable in itfelf, and refped:able in its charad;er, but, in 
 fome degree, as I fhould imagine, the fource of pecuniary advan- 
 tage. Thus the loyalty and zeal of the foldiers are happily fecured in 
 a fituation fo important from its value, and where vigilance and fidelity 
 in thofe who guard it become more neceffary in proportion to its 
 remotenefs from the mother country. Whether it is that their pay is 
 proportionably advanced in the fervice of thefe fettlements, or that 
 they are allowed any diftind: advantages, I cannot tell, but they cer- 
 tainly appear to be in a fl:atc of comparative affluence, which no other, 
 foldiery that I have ever feen or heard of can be fuppofed to pofiTels. 
 The number of troops in Rio Janeiro, including cavalry and in- 
 fentry, amount to twenty thoufand men ; and the militia are, at leaft, 
 double that number. At the fame time the place is admirably for- 
 tified, both by art and nature. It is fituated about two miles from the 
 mouth of the bay, and is defended by nine flrong forts, well fupplied 
 witJi artillery, and fufficient garrifons. There are alfo two fmall 
 iflands in the middle of the bay, one at the entrance, called Santa Cruz 
 Fort, and another at a fmall difi:ance, which flill add to the ftrength 
 of the fituation, and the difficulty of attacking it with advantage. 
 
 Sir George Staunton fet off with a party on an excurfion to the Saturday 15. 
 Sugar Loaf Hill, a very high rock fituated on the left fide of the entrance 
 to the harbour; and at five o'clock in the afternoon, Lord Macart- 
 ney,
 
 ( n ) 
 
 1792. ney, who was flill very much indifpofed, accompanied by Sir Erafmus 
 December. Gower, returned, in a private manner, on board the Lion. 
 
 Sunday 16. All the baggage being put into carts to be carried to the beach, the 
 officers who commanded the guard at the houfe where Lord Macart- 
 ney had refided, ordered a party of foldiers to attend each cart, till the 
 whole of their cargoes was depofited on board the boats which were 
 in waiting to receive them. While J was attending on this duty, I 
 had an opportunity of feeing the Viceroy return in great flate from the 
 church, where he had been to attend {cme particular ceremonial of his 
 religion. 
 
 Monday 17. At half paft ten in the morning we weighed anchor, and worked 
 down to Santa Cruz Fort, and came too, foon after, in fifteen fathom 
 water. The next day we foon ran out of the harbour, and took our 
 leave of Rio Janeiro. 
 
 Nothing now oc<:irrred for feme time, in the courfe of the voyage, 
 which requires particular notice ; nor even that change of weather which 
 would juftify a circumflantial account of it. The weather was, in ge- 
 neral, moderate; light airs, frefh breezes, with occafional hazinefs and 
 drizly rain, v/ould include every defcription of it during the remainder 
 of the year 1792. It may not, however, be thought altogether improper 
 in me to mention, that, though fo far removed from our friends and 
 native clime, with fuch a wafte of water around us, and fo long a track 
 Tuefdaya-. of occan before US, the feftival of Chriftmas-day was not forgotten, 
 and that its focial diilincftions were pradlifed and enjoyed in the little 
 world that bore us along. 
 
 Mondays:. About ten in the morning we faw the ifland of Triftan de Cunha. 
 
 It is a barren, uninhabited, and almoft inacceffible ifland, fituated in the 
 
 • heart of the fouthern ocean, in thirty-feven deg. feven min. and thirty 
 
 fee. fouth latitude, and about forty-five deg. eafl: longitude. When we 
 
 iirft oblerved this mountain rifuig above the clouds, it appeared to be 
 
 as
 
 ( 25 ) 
 as high as the peak of Tcncrift'. It is a natural place of rcfort to pro- ^ '70V ^ 
 dio-ious numbers of wild birds; while the lurrounding fea is the jai.i!.uy. 
 habitation of whales, {ea-lions, and other monllers of the deep. Lieu- 
 tenant Whitman, who was fent on Ihore in the cutter, to lound for 
 anchorage, gave a very favourable report of the beach, as well as of a 
 run of water which iilued from a cliff, and, flowing acrofs the fhorc, 
 difcharged itfclf into the fea. 
 
 Mr. Whitman, on this occafion, fhot a fea-hon and an albatrofs; 
 the latter of which he brought on board. It meafured nine feet from 
 the bill to the extremity of the tail, but weighed no more than three 
 pounds and an halt. 
 
 In confequence of this information. Sir Erafmus Gower propofed 
 to fend a watering party on Ihore the next morning ; while Sir George 
 Staunton fuggefted an excurfion thither at the fame time, to fee what 
 this illand offered to his obfervation in any branch of natural hiftory : 
 for this purpofe, a certain number of artillery men w ere ordered to 
 be in readinefs by three o'clock in the morning, and to be properly 
 equipped for the expedition againfl the amphibious monfters of the 
 fliore. At midnight, how^ever, a very heavy gale came on, which Tuefday r. 
 caufed the fliip to flart her anchor, and our lituation became very 
 alarming; lor if the wind, which blew dire(flly on the rock, had not 
 changed, we muft inevitably have perifhed. This unexped:ed altera- 
 tion in the weather frufi:rated the deiigns which had been formed of 
 obtaining further information relative to this curious place. 
 
 The weather continued to be moderate, with light air?, and frcfli Sunday «o. 
 breezes, till this day ; when there came on an heavy gale of wind, 
 •which occafioned fuch a rolling of the fliip, as to interfere with thofe 
 enjoyments which make fcamen forget the inconvcnicncics of their 
 fituation. 
 
 The moderate weather returned, with all the comforts that ufually Tuefday 23. 
 attend it. 
 
 E About
 
 ( 26 ) 
 
 « '^—~j About four o'clock in the morning favv land, bearing E. N. E. 
 
 Friday7" ftippofed to bc ten leagues diftant ; which, in about four hours, was 
 difcovered to be the ifland of Amflerdam, (ituate in the Indian ocean, and 
 lying in latitude thirty dcg. forty-three min. fouth, and feventy-ieven 
 deg. twenty min. eafb longitude. As we approached the iiland, we 
 could plainly difcover three men on the fhore ; in confequence ot which 
 the enfign was immediately hoifted. We here faw great numbers of 
 water fnakes, and a prodigious quantity of fifli refembling cod, and 
 weighing, in general, about three to eight pounds. At noon the yawl 
 washoifted out, and the mafler fent to found for anchorage. In confe- 
 quence of his information we hove too, and anchored with the bell 
 bower, in twenty-eight fathom water, on the eaft iide of the ifland. 
 The mailer alfo gave an account that there were five men on the 
 iiland, who had come from the Ifle de France, for the purpofe of 
 killing feals, with which this place abounds. 
 
 Wc<]nefday6. Sir George and Mr. Staunton, with feveral other gentlemen, ac- 
 companied by, a party of artillery foldiers, properly armed, went on 
 Ihore, and made great deftrud:ion among the natives of the place: 
 fuch as feals, penguins, albatroffes, &c. Great quantities of filli were 
 alfo caught here, and falted, for the fervice of the Ihip. 
 
 On the north-eaft end of the ifland, nearly oppofite to where the 
 Lion lay at anchor, there is a very commodious bafon, about a mile 
 in diameter, and furrounded by inacceffible and perpendicular rocks ; 
 at the entrance of which, on the north-well: corner, flands a lofty 
 infulated rock, which bears the form of a fugar-loaf. This bafoa 
 might, at a fmall expenfe, be made a place of fafe retreat for fhips 
 of any burthen; as it contains, in many parts, thirteen fathom water, 
 and pofleffes an excellent landing place. We here caught great quan- 
 tities of fifh which refemble our lobiler, both in fliape and fize, but of 
 a very fuperior flavour. We alfo obferved great numbers of Iharks 
 all round the ifland ; which is the more extraordinary, as the fhark is 
 feldom feen in thefe latitudes. 
 
 3 • On
 
 ( ^7 ) 
 On our landing, wc were met by the five feal-huntcrs, whom we 
 have already mentioned j who, with great civility, conduced us to 
 an hut at a fmall diltance from the beach. They were natives of 
 France and America, who had made a commercial engagement to 
 come and refide in this ifland fur the (pace of eighteen months, in 
 order to kill feals, whofe (kins are fold to very great advantage to (hips 
 which touch at the ille of France. At this time they had only been 
 lix months in their prefcnt fituation, when, according to their account, 
 they had already killed eiglit thoufand feals. 
 
 At a fmall uiflancc from their hut, thcfe men had, with mucli la- 
 bour, and no fmall hazard, formed a path, by which they contrived 
 to set over a mountain to kill feals on the other fide of the ifland. 
 On afccnding this path, we came to a fmall fpring, whofe water is 
 equal to boiling heat ; and fome fifli which we put into it, were as 
 perfecftly drelTed in fix minutes, as if they had been cooked on board 
 the fliip. It Ihould be alfo obferved, that while we were attending to 
 this procefs, we difi:ind:ly heard the fame kind of bubbling founds 
 as proceeds from water boiling in a veflel over the fire. On the top 
 of the mountain there is a volcano, from whence a fubftance ilfucs, 
 v^hich thefe men reprefented as bearing the appearance, and poflclfing 
 the qualities, of falt-petre. 
 
 This ifland is about eight miles in length, and fix in breadth j in 
 fome parts it is altogether flat, particularly to the wefl:, and gradually 
 rifes to the very high land in the center of it. It is a very barren 
 fpot, bearing neither tree nor flirub, and whofe only produce is a kind 
 ofcoarfe, tufted grafs, with very thick flalks. Everything in this 
 ifland bears the mark of having undergone the adlion of fire. The 
 earth, and even the rocks and llones, on approaching the volcano, 
 were fo hot as to fcorch our fl^in, to burn our flioes, and blifter our 
 feet. Wc were conduced about this defolate place by the five feal- 
 hunters ; whofe care and kind attentions preferved us not only from 
 inconvenience, but danger, which it would have been impoflible for 
 us to have avoided, it we had not been fubjed: to their direction. 
 
 E 2 The
 
 ( 2? ) 
 
 1798- The volcanic mountain is about three miles in its afcent, which is 
 
 February, very fteep and rugged; and in its afcent, as well as defcent, attended 
 with continual difficulties. In fliort, we had met with lb many obftaclcs 
 both in going up and coming down it, that two fignal guns had been 
 fired from the Lion, which, with the Uindoltan, were both under 
 weish, when we reached the fhore ; where, after an interval of no 
 common alarm and apprehenfion, we found a boat that conveyed us 
 on board. The night being dark, we faw the flames of the volcano 
 burfting forth in fix different places, at a confiderable diftance from 
 each other, which formed a grand and affeding fpedacle. 
 
 It may here be proper to remark, that the thermometer, which, orr 
 board, flood at fifty-fi^'e degrees, rofe on tlie ifland to feventy- 
 four; and, towards the top of the mountain, to fcventy-feven degrees 
 and an half: a circumftance which muft be attributed to the heat of 
 the volcano. 
 
 "Iriday 15. This morning, at three o'clock, a very large meteor, or fire-ball, rofc 
 from the north-north-weft, and continued in view for fome minutes, 
 paffing off, without any explofion, to the fouth-fouth-eaft. It threw 
 a kind of blue light over the fails and decks j but the illumination 
 was fo ftrong, that the moft trifling objed: could be diftinguiflicd. 
 
 Monday 18. At eight o'clock in the morning difcovered the Trial rocks, about a 
 league to the windward ; the fea beating over them to an immenfe 
 height. Thefe rocks are not vifiblc, as they do not rife above the fur- 
 face of the water, nor are they much beneath it. They are fituated in 
 the Indian ocean, in about one hundred and fix degrees of eaft longi- 
 tude, and twenty-five, or twenty-fix degrees of fouth latitude. 
 
 ThurMayaS. In proceeding up the ftraits of Sunda, we faw the Hindoflan lying 
 at anchor, near the north ifland. In the afternoon a Dutch prow came 
 along-fide the Lion, laden with tunic, poultry, and fruit, for fale. 
 The owner of the prow was a Dutchman; but thofc who rowed it 
 were Malays, and fome of them females. 
 
 At
 
 t 29 ) 
 
 At three o'clock in the afternoon we came too in Batuvia road, in '793- 
 
 five fathom water: the careening ifland bearing weft-north-wcft:. March. 
 We were faUitcd by all the Englifh lliips in the road, and one French Wcdnefdaye. 
 veffel. At fun-rife wc filutcd the Dutch garrifon with thirteen guns, 
 which were returned : at feven wc returned the falutes of all tiic fnips ; 
 and at eight received the members of the Dutcii council with the fame 
 honours. Thofe gentlemen compofcd a deputation from the Go- 
 vernor-General ol' Batavia, to invite Lord Macartney on fliore, and to 
 know on what day and hour he would be plcafed to land. His Lordlhip, 
 accordingly, fixed on Friday, the 8th infl:. at nine o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, that being the annivcrfiry of the birth-day of his Serene Highnefs 
 the Prince uf Orange. 
 
 . At fix o'clock in the morning, a falute of twenty-one lower-deck Friday &. 
 guns was fired, in honour of his Serene Highnefs : and, at the time ap- 
 pointed, the Ambafiador, attended by his whole fuite, went on fliorc 
 with the ufual formalities. 
 
 In a fliort time after Lord Macartney had quitted the fliip, a Dutch 
 officer of difiindlion, with fcveral ladies and gentlemen, came on board 
 the Lion, from Batavia, to take a vie\v of her. They were re- 
 ceived with all poflible politenefs by Lieutenant Campbell, and ap- 
 peared to be much fatisfied with their reception. A very fine young 
 Englilh lady was one of the party, and enhanced the honour of the 
 vifit. 
 
 In the afternoon I went on fliorc in the launch, havin<r charo-e of 
 the baggage belonging to the fuite, which was, with fome difficulty, 
 rowed up the canal, and iafely landed before the door of the royal 
 Batavian hotel, where the packages were diflributed in the apart- 
 ments of the gentlemen to whom they refpcdfively belonged. The 
 Ambaffador, with Sir George and Mr. Staunton, were received at the 
 houfe of Mr. Wiggcrman, one of the members of the fupreme couu- 
 cii. 
 
 At
 
 ( 30 ) 
 At fix o'clock Lord Macartney went in form to an entertainment 
 at the Governor-Generars country refidence, at which the principal 
 perfons of both fexes in Batavia were prefent. The whole concluded 
 with a magnificent fupper and ball, which lafled to a very late hour of 
 the following morning. 
 
 Sunday lo. While I was at breakfafl this morning, my ears were affailed by 
 tlie moft dreadful fhrieks I ever heard j and, on making the inquiry 
 which humanity fuggefted, I difcovered that thcfe horrid founds pro- 
 ceeded from a Malay flave, whom the maftcr of the hotel had ordered 
 tobepunilhedfor fome omiihon of his duty. This poor wretch, who 
 was upwards of feventy years of age, was (landing in a back court, 
 •while two other flaves were fcourging him in the mofi: unrelenting 
 manner with fmall canes. This horrid punilhment they continued 
 for thirty-five minutes, till the back and hips of this vidim to feve- 
 rity exhibited one lacerated furfacc, from whence the blood trickled 
 down on the pavement. The mafter then commanded the correcting 
 (laves to give over their tormenting office, and fent the fmarting cul- 
 prit, as he was, and without any application whatever to his wounds, 
 to continue the laborious duties of his ftation. On remonflrating with 
 the mafter of the hotel, for this cruel and barbarous treatment of his 
 fervant — he anfwered, that tlie Malays were fo extremely wicked, 
 that neither the houfe, nor any one in it, would be fafe for a moment, 
 if they were not kept in a ftate of continual terror, by the moft rigid 
 and exemplary punilhment. But this was not all ; for another a(5l 
 of neceffary feverity, as it was reprcfented to me, though of a different 
 kind, immediately fucceeded. Two flaves, in carrying off the break- 
 faft equipage from our table, contrived between them to break a plate; 
 for which offence, as it could not be prccifcly fixed upon either, they 
 were both ordered to fuffer. They were, accordingly, each of them, 
 furniflied with canes, and compelled to beat each other ; which they 
 did with xeciprocal feverity ; as two other flaves flood with bam- 
 boos, to .corrc(3 any appearance of lenity in therru 
 
 Notvvithftandin^
 
 ( 3' ) 
 
 NotviithllanJing the extreme licat ot the weather, I was impatient J793. 
 to take a view of the city ; and the refult of my obfervations I now M^h. 
 prefent to the reader. 
 
 Tlie city of Batavia is fitiiate in the iHand of Java, ami is the 
 capital of all the Dutch fetrlements and colonies in the Eall Indies. 
 It lies in one hundred and tour degrees of eaft longitude, and fix 
 degrees of fouth latitude ; and from its fituation between the Equator 
 and the Tropic of Capricorn, tlie climate is infupportably hot. 
 
 The city is built in a fquare form, and furroundcd with a flrong 
 wall, about thirty feet high. There are four gates, one in each angle, 
 with a fort, battery, and barracks for foldiers at each gate. The forts 
 are mounted with artillery, garrifoned with troops, and furroundcd 
 with ditches, over which draw-bridges are let down during the day ; 
 but after nine o'clock at night there is no paffage over them without a 
 figned order from the Governor-General. 
 
 The ftreets of the city are broad, handfomely built, and well paved ; 
 and in the center of every principal flreet there is a canal of about 
 fixty feet broad ; fo that there is no communication between the two 
 fides of the fame ftreet but by bridges, of which there are great num- 
 bers thrown over the water at no great diflance from each other. The 
 houfes are, in general, three flories high; and each flory very lofty, 
 on account of the exceffive heat of the climate. They are all built 
 according to one general defign, and pofTefs a certain degree of gran- 
 deur, both in their external and interior appearance. The low^er 
 flory of the houfes is built of flone,, covered with marble ; and the 
 upper part is compofed of a fine red brick : the windows, which are 
 very large, are coped with marble, and the wooden frame- work richly- 
 gilt and ornamented. The inhabitants appear to have a very great 
 pride in preferving the exterior beauty of their houfes, and ufe-a fort 
 of red paint for that purpofe, with which they walh, or colour the 
 fronts of them at leafl once a week. 
 
 Qn
 
 I/O?- 
 March. 
 
 ( 3^ ) 
 Oa each fide of the canal there are two rows of evergreen trees, 
 which add very much to the beauty of the ftreets. There are alfo in 
 different parts of each ftrect, fniall fquare buildings, with feats in 
 them for the accommodation of paiTengcrs, as flicker or fliade may be 
 neceflary, from the violence of the rain or the heat of the fun. 
 
 The only public buildings which merit particular attention, are the 
 palace of the Governor-General, the arfenai, the lladthoufe, and the 
 high church. 
 
 The finl of them forms a termination to the principal flrect of the 
 place, its fore-court is handfomely railed, and the front gate is guarded 
 ty centinels. This edifice is of Itone, and of an impofing appearance : 
 ir confifls of four flories, with a central dome crowned with a turret : 
 "tlicre are alfo large wings projediing on either fide from the main body, 
 with lurrounding piazzas. There is a battalion of foldiers conftantly 
 on duty here, which confifts chiefly of Malays commanded by Euro- 
 p£an officers. I faw alfo a few European foldiers, who, though they 
 were much better clothed and accoutred than the native troops, have 
 fuch a meagre, pale, and ghaltly appearance, as to be but ill-qualified 
 for the duties of their own, or any other profefTion. I was informed 
 by fom.e of them, that not one in twenty of the military who came 
 from Europe, ever returned there ; and that even thofe who efcape 
 from hence, and furvive all the dangers and diforders of the climate, 
 generally go back to their own country with emaciated forms and de- 
 bilitated conflitutions. 
 
 This palace appears to have been built at ftveral diflinift periods, 
 from the dates which are engraved in different parts of it. The dates 
 1 630, 1 636, and 1 660, mark, as I fuppofe, the particular periods when 
 certain principal parts of it were eredfcd. Before the court there is a 
 Ifind of lawn, with a walk in the middle, fliaded with rows of trees; 
 3nd to the left of this lawn, at a fmall dilhmce from the palace, f]:ands 
 the arfenai, before which lay a great number of new brafs guns, gun- 
 
 ^ carriages,
 
 ( 33 ) 
 carriages, fliot of all kinds piled up, and fifty large cannon com- 179^ 
 plctely mounted. This building, as may be fuppofed, is more re- ^^^rdT 
 markablc for its flrcngtli, than the beauty of its external appearance, 
 and contains an immcnfe quantity of all kinds of ordnance and 
 military ftores, both in its chambers, and in the deep vaults beneath 
 the building. 
 
 Beyond this lawn or walk is a canal, over which a drawbridge 
 communicates with one ot the forts ; and near it is a very elegant ftonc 
 building, with correfponding wings, built in a very pleafmg ftile of 
 archite(il:ure: it is called the Imall armory, and, as I was informed on 
 the fpot, contains two hundred thoufand ftand of arms. Around this 
 edifice, there are feveral large courts, which contain relidcnces for the 
 principal officers, as well as barracks for twenty-thoufancf men; but 
 this vaft range of buildings is no longer inhabited, on account of the 
 contagious diforders that are fo frequent in this city. The officers 
 have all of them places of refidence at fome diftance from the town ; 
 and all the European regiments are quartered in the country ; the guard 
 on the city duty being regularly relieved every morning. The regi- 
 ment appointed for duty marches every day into town, at fix o'clock 
 in the morning, to the g;rand parade oppofite the Governor's palace ; 
 one battalion of vi'hich attends the Governor's duty, and the other is 
 diflributed among the feveral guards round the city. 
 
 Near the fort, which has been already mentioned, frauds the cuf- 
 tom-houfe, belonging to the Dutch Eail-India Company, with their 
 ftore-houfcs, and other commercial eredions. There is alfo a fmall 
 dock-yard, where boats and a few inconfidcrablc vefTcls were build- 
 ing. There is a chain thrown acrofs the canal, every night, to prevent 
 all communication with boats after a certain hour, and a fort has been 
 .crcfted near the cuftom-houfe, with a view, as it appears, to protedt it; 
 but, without pretending to any knowlege in the fcience of defence, or 
 military ta(5lics, I could difcover that this place was in no condition to 
 
 F refill
 
 f 34 ) 
 179?. refift a well-appointed enemy ; nor could I reconcile the defencelefs 
 "m^ciT"' ^^^^ of this valuable lettlement to the wealth and importance of it. 
 
 At the end of the llrect leading from the Governor's houfe, and in 
 a handfome fquare, flands the ftadthoufe, where the courts of juftice 
 are held, and the fiipreme council meet to proceed in their delibera- 
 tions : it is a very fine building, with an interior court furrounded by 
 a piazza. At a fmall dillance from the ftadthoufe is the principal- 
 church of the city, which is furrounded by a cemetery. It is a large, 
 plain, fq^uare building, with a dome in the center, and a lofty turret 
 fpringing from it j the infide is fitted up in a very beautiful manner : 
 the tribune belonging to the Governor General is very much enriched ;. 
 the pews are very commodioufly arranged j and, indeed, every part is 
 admirably adapted to the purpofes of that religion to which it is de- 
 voted. The walls of the church are entirely covered with efcutcheons- 
 and painted infcriptions, facred to the memory of the dead : thefe in- 
 fcriptions are of different fizes, but being painted in the fame form,, 
 enclofed in gilt frames, and difpofcd with judgment, produce a very 
 beautiful effed. 
 
 The civil government of Batavia and the ifland of Java is perfedlly 
 arbitrary, and vefted in the Governor and Supreme Council in all mat- 
 ters, excepting thofe of trade and commerce, which are fubjedt to aa 
 ofRcer called a Director General, from whofe decifions there is na 
 
 appeal. 
 
 The fcverity of the laws, and the rigour with which they are exe- 
 cuted, could find no juflification in a fettlement belonging to an Euro- 
 pean government ; were it not for the favage and ferocious difpofitioa 
 of the natives of the country, whom no punilliments, however fre- 
 quent or fevere, are able to maintain in that fiate of difcipline and 
 good order, which is fo nccelVary to the well-being and comfort of 
 civilifed life. 
 
 1 The
 
 ( 35 ) 
 The number of regular troops quartered in the neighbourhood of '793- 
 Batavia, inchiding both the European and Malay regiments, amounts MardT. 
 to about twelve thoufand men : there are alfo upwards of twenty- 
 thoufand native militia, who arc regularly cloathed and paid ; but 
 though they are frequently muflered, by order of the Governor, they 
 are never adlually embodied, but in time of war, or in confcquence of 
 fome civil commotion. The European troops arc cloathed in a manner 
 fuitable to the climate, are allowed to carry on any trade or profefllon 
 for which they are qualified, and otherwife remunerated by particular 
 privileges ; if any thing can remunerate them for the dangers and iu- 
 conveniencies that relult from this ungenial clime. The Malay 
 troops, on the contrary, are deftitute of any decent clothing ; none of 
 them at leaft being allowed fhoes or ftockings; and in this miferablc 
 flatc of equipment they do their duty. 
 
 Batavia is extremely populous j and among its inhabitants may be 
 found the natives of every European country : the larger proportion of 
 them, however, are Chinefe, who appear to be a quiet and induftrious 
 people. It feemed to be a general opinion among thofe, of whom I 
 had an opportunity to make the inquiry, that this city contains two 
 hundred thouland fouls ; one half of which are fuppofed to be Chi- 
 nefe, and the other, Europeans and native Malays : nor when I con- 
 fider the extent of the city and its fuburbs, do I conceive it to be an 
 exaggerated calculation. 
 
 On my return to the hotel after the morning's excurfion, of which 
 I have given the information it produced, I found, with great concern 
 that Lord Macartney had been feized with a violent fit of the o-out 
 and was returned on board the Lion ; (o that all the various entertam- 
 ments which were preparing to have enlivened the time of our flay at 
 Batavia, were fruflrated by this very unpleafant chancre in the healtii 
 of the diftinguiihed perfon who was the objecfl of them. 
 
 F 3 r fuppej
 
 ( 36 ) 
 I flipped this evening at the Batavian hotel, in company with fwr- 
 French gentlemen, who had been fo fortunate as to efcape from a band 
 of Malays. The villains had attacked them in the ftreet : a circum- 
 ftance which often happens, and particularly to flrangers who pafs 
 the ftreets after it is dark. 
 
 Tuefdayiz. I repeated my excurfions through the city. 
 
 Wednef- Several gentlemen of the AmbalTador's fuite being taken ill, they 
 
 ^^y '3- -were ordered to go on board their refpedive fliips, and large quan- 
 
 tities of fruit were purchafed for their ufe and refrefhment. 
 
 In the evenino- I went to fee the tragedy of Mahomet, and paid a 
 rix-dollar for admiliion. The theatre is fituated in the middle of a large 
 <yarden, which is a place of public refort for the Batavians of every 
 rank and denomination, It is a fpacious brick building, decorated 
 with great elegance, and fitted up with front and fide boxes, and gal- 
 leries; its orcheftra alfo contained a tolerable band of mufic. 
 
 The play, as far as I covild judge fro"m the attitudes of the adors, 
 and the exprefTion of their countenances, for the whole was in the 
 Dutch language, was very well performed. The entertainment was 
 Barnaby Brittle, and afforded a great deal of amufement. The au- 
 dience was very brilliant, but the more fplendid part of it arofe from 
 the fupcrior figure, appearance, and beauty of lome Englifh ladies 
 who graced the boxes on the occafion. 
 
 Thvirf- At noon there was an auction, or, as it is here termed, an outcry, 
 
 day '4- pf certain lands and eftates, belonging to fome of thofe fortunate indi- 
 
 viduals, who, having efcaped the dangers of the climate, return with 
 the large fortunes they have acquired here, to enjoy the comforts and 
 luxurious eafe of Europe. 
 
 Thefe
 
 ( 37 ) 
 Thefc falcs cannot take place, but under the infpccflion of the Com- 
 mifTary General, or his deputies, who muft always be prefent on the 
 occafion. Notice is given of thefc audions throughout the city and 
 fuburbs by a certain number of men, who beat gongs to colled: the 
 people together in the different ftreets, when a perfon authorifcd by 
 the Commiflary General reads over the articles to be fold, and the 
 conditions of fale : in every other rcfped, thefc falcs arc condudcd in 
 the fame manner as thofe in England. 
 
 Capt, Mackintofli came on fliore, and purchafed a French brig^ Friday 15. 
 to anfwer the purpofe of the Jackall, from whom we had been fo 
 long feparated, that we defpaired of feeing her again. 
 
 This evening I have reafon to confidcr as one of the moft fortunate Saturday 16. 
 of my life, having efcaped from a gang of the Malays, who certainly 
 formed a defign, as they had an almolt irrefifliblc temptation, to de- 
 ftroy me. 
 
 The principal part of the baggage belonging to the AmbafTador's 
 fuite having been already fent on board the refpedive fliips, I was 
 charged by Mr. Maxwell to fee that the reft of the packages, and a 
 cheft of dollars, were put on board a proa hired for that purpofe, and 
 ordered to go down with the proa to the boom, and rcmaiii there till 
 Mr. Maxwell arrived, which he promifed to do in half an hour. 
 I accordingly fet off, and arrived at the boom about eight o'clock, 
 when I fallened the boat to the cuftom-houfe quay, and anxioufly 
 waited the arrival of Mr. Maxwell. In this unpleafant fituation I re- 
 mained till nine o'clock, when the boom was thrown acrofs the water, 
 and the bridge drawn up. My uneafinefs now became of a very fe- 
 rious nature, as I well knew that Mr. Maxwell could not reach me 
 but by a fpecial order from the Governor; while I was not only in 
 danger of lofmg the property under my care, from the Malays, who 
 were continually running backwards and forwards in the proa, and 
 examining the articles on board, but of being myfclf facrificed to make 
 
 the.
 
 ( 33 ) 
 1793- the booty more fecure to them. In this fituation, I formed the refo- 
 "^^j;"^ kition of making the beft of my way to the Lion ; and, accordingly^ 
 ordered the Malays to row off for the (hip, which they at firfl refufed ; 
 but after fliewing them fome money, they took the oars, as I ex- 
 peded, to comply with my wi(hesj but, inilead of making towards 
 the ihip, they rowed the proa clofe to the Ihore, about a gun-fliot 
 from the mouth of the canal, and at leaft half a mile from any houfe. 
 They then all run afhore, and, in fpite of threats or entreaties, left 
 me to myfelf in a much worfe fituation than I was before, as I was 
 now more remote from any aihftance, in cafe 1 fhould be in a fitua- 
 tion to require it. 
 
 In about twenty minutes thefe wretches returned in greater numbers, 
 which increafed my apprehenfions, as they all entered into the proa, 
 and, putting off from the fhore, attempted to row into the bay : in 
 Ihort, a violent fcuffle enfued between us, in which I at length fuc- 
 ceeded, by means of a drawn fword that 1 ufed with fome effedl, in 
 driving them all on fhore, except one man, whom I compelled, by 
 terror of the fame inflrument, to row the vefTel to the cuflom-houfe, 
 where I waited till pail eleven; and, defpairing of feeing Mr. Max- 
 well till the next day, I took all the articles out of the boat, and 
 lodged them in a public-houfe for further fecurity. I had, however, 
 fcarce fmifhed this neceffary arrangement, when I faw Mr. Maxwell, 
 attended by feveral flaves with flambeaus, arrive on the oppofite fide 
 of the water. I inflantly hailed him ; when he came over to me, and, 
 all the packages being again put into the proa, we fet fail for the 
 Lion, and fome time after midnight arrived on board. 
 
 The hotel in which the Arnbaflador's fuite refided, during our flay 
 at Batavia, is a very fuperb buildiqg of its kind, and was ered:ed at the 
 expenfe of government for the accommodation of foreigners and mer- 
 cantile ftrangers : it is under the fole management and controul of the 
 Governor General and Council, by whofe regulations the bufinefs of 
 the houfe is conduifted. 
 
 It
 
 ( 39 ) 
 
 It is called the Royal Batavian and Foreign Hotel, and this title 
 appears "in large golden letters in the front of the houfe, with the date of 
 IT29, the year in which it was built. It contains three regular ftories; 
 and, as each floor is very lofty, for the benefit of the air, the building 
 rifes to a very confiderable height. It is conilirudled, like the other 
 edifices of the place, with brick painted of a red colour, while the 
 feams of mortar between are proportionably whitened ; the win- 
 dows are alfo very large and broad, the frames of which are gilt or 
 curioufly painted; the whole forming a very large and handfome 
 flrudlure. 
 
 There arc three doors in the front, and a kind of terrace raifed 
 above the pavement before them, which is covered by a portico ; 
 where the company refident in the houfe ufually lit after dinner and 
 fmoke their pipes : each of thefe doors forms an entrance into an hall 
 about two hundred feet in length, and about lixty in breadth; at the 
 further end of which there is a large ftair-cafe that leads to the bed- 
 chamber apartments, and the flat roof above them. 
 
 In the center hall there are at leafl thirty elegant lamps and chandeliers^ 
 which are lighted up every night, and, oppofite to them, on the wall, 
 is a range of looking-glailes, which refled, and, of courfe, heighten 
 the brilliance of the illumination : the piers between them are 
 adorned with paintings. In the center of the middle hall is a large 
 arch, from which a filver chandelier- is fufpended: the other halls 
 have each a door of the fime dimenfions exacftly oppofite, and thefe 
 refpediively lead to an apartment with an alcove roof, neatly orna- 
 mented with fhicco, which contains a billiard table funounded 
 with lamps. From the center of the principal hall the coup d'cci! at 
 night is perfedly enchanting, from the great number of lights, and 
 the regular order in which they are placed : tlie billiard rooms aUct 
 with their lamps, correfponding exadly with each other. 
 
 Beliind.
 
 ( 40 ) 
 
 ^7 ^3- ^ Behind the hoiife there is a fpacious gallery M-ith piazzas, from 
 Iviarch. whence a large fhade of filk, fancifully painted with figures and gro- 
 tefque charadiers, Js occafionally lowered in the day, as the heat of the 
 fun may require, and in the evening it is entirely dropped, when the 
 gallery is lighted up in the fame manner as the apartments already 
 defcribcd. Beyond this gallery, there is a court paved with large flat 
 ftones, and furrounded with a variety of offices for poulterers, butchers, 
 and othef domeftic ufes, with a fpacious kitchen, and every neceffary 
 accommodation. The upper ftory of this range of building is divided 
 into granaries and chambers for the principal and other flaves, of which 
 there are altogether at leaft ninety, of both fexes, who belong to the 
 mafter of the hotel. Thefe menial perfons are promoted according to 
 their merits ; and, if they are induftrious and attentive to the duties of 
 their feveral departments, they may, from the emoluments of their 
 fituation, which are very confiderable, he foon in a condition to pur- 
 ■chafe tlieir freedom. 
 
 In the great hall on the firft floor, which ferves as a veftibule to 
 the fleeping apartments that furround it, there is a chryftal lamp 
 replenilhed with cocoa-nut oil, always burning on a table at the door 
 of each room, which is ready for the perfon who occupies it, 
 at whatever time he may chufe to retire to his repofe j as it is the cuf- 
 tom of the hotel that every one (hould keep the key of his own room, 
 as a fecurity againft the Malays, who are of fuch an incorrigible nature, 
 that no punilhment can ultimately deter them from indulging their 
 .difpofition to pilfer. 
 
 The publi<: regulations of the houfe refemble thofe of European ho- 
 tels, and the table which was kept for the AmbaflTador's fuite was very 
 fuperb. The breakfixfl: always confifled of tea, coffee, chocolate, and 
 cocoa, with every kind of cold meat, broiled fifli, and eggs ; to which 
 were added, jellies, fweetmeats, and honey, with various kinds of wines 
 and confc(:;tionary, all furniflied in great abundance, and arranged 
 .in tlie handfomeil manner. Both thyp dinner and fupper confillcd 
 
 of
 
 ( 41 ) 
 of the mofl delicate diflics, and drclTcd in a fupcriur Ailc of cook- 1793. 
 ery. The fervants table was alfo fupplied with ci^ual propriety and March, 
 plenty. 
 
 The rate of living here, however, is very cxpcnfivc, and the prices 
 of liquors very exorbitant : fniall beer and porter were charged half a 
 crown Englilh per bottle. But when the prodigious rent of this 
 hotel, amounting, as the landlord himfelf allured me, to fixty thou- 
 fand rix-doUars per annum, and the expenfc of importing liquors and 
 other commodities from Elurope, with the duties on them, is confi- 
 dercd, the high price of living, in fuch a fituation, could no longer be 
 regarded either with furprilc or difcontent. 
 
 The drefs of the inhabitants of Batavia takes its rife from the cuftom 
 of their refpeilive countries. The European ladies, indeed, feem 
 not to be altogether governed by this principle, but fiiit their drefles 
 to their own peculiar fancy, and the circumftanccs of the climate; 
 while the Dutch and the Malay women, in fome degree, imitate their 
 fadiions. The head-drefs of the latter, however, is altogether diffe- 
 rent, and oi a very curious appearance. — The hair is combed back- 
 ward from the forehead, and fmoothed with oil and eflences in fuch 
 a manner as to wear the appearance of being japanned : it is then 
 twilled hard, and, being laid in a circular form round the crown of the 
 head, is faikned by a large comb with a number of gold and filver 
 pins, the heads of which are formed of precious Hones, according to 
 the rank of the wearer. Hair powder is very little ufed in Batavia, 
 and by the Europeans alone. It was, however, with no fmall degree 
 of exultation that I faw the decided fuperiority which the few Englifli 
 ladies who refide here, poffefs over every other denomination of fe- 
 males, not only as to the gracefulnefs of their pcrfons, and the fweet- 
 nefs of their countenances, but, alfo, in the fimplicity of their drefs and 
 the elegance of their manners. 
 
 G The
 
 »793- 
 
 March. 
 
 ( 42 ) 
 
 The fuburbs of Batavia, or, as it is generally callea, the Chinefe 
 town, being moRly inhabited by thofe people, lie on the fouth and 
 weft fides of the ditch that furrounds the city wall, and are fcattered 
 about the country for feveral miles. The houfes are, in general, of 
 wood, and have no pretenfions to elegance or beauty ; though their 
 warehoufes are fitted up with a certain degree of glare and gaudi- 
 nefs. A great variety of manufadiures are carried on here by the 
 induftrious Chinamen : indeed, all the artificers and mechanics in 
 Batavia are from China; the Europeans, through a fooliflr and un- 
 pardonable pride, confidering it as beneath them to perform any 
 mechanical operations ; and the Malays appear to be curfed with a 
 natural incapacity to be inftrudted in any thing above the drudgery 
 of manual labour. 
 
 The whole of thefe fuburbs forms a fcattered mafs of deformity and 
 confufion ; and the horrid ftenches which arife from ftagnant water 
 and various filthy caufes, cannot be defcribed. In the furround- 
 ing country there are a great many beautiful feats and villas, with 
 fine gardens ; but the ground being every where fwampy, the number 
 of drains, with which it is neceffarily interfed:ed, renders it more or 
 kfs unwholefome in every part. 
 
 In pafling through the fifli market, I was under the necelfity of 
 retiring into a tavern, to get fome Madeira and water, in order ta 
 recover myfelf from the overcoming effeds of the putrid fmeJIs that 
 affailed me. There appeared, how ever, to be a great abundance of 
 fifh in this obnoxious places but, except turtle, they bore a very exor- 
 bitant price. 
 
 The city and fuburbs of Batavia certainly form one of the moft 
 
 unwholefome fpots in the world, and may be juilly termed the grave 
 
 of Europeans : but the unfalutary and infediious nature of the place 
 
 4 might
 
 ( 43 ) 
 
 might be very much alleviated by an attention to cleanlincfs, which i?')!- 
 feems to be not, in the Icafl, confidcrcd by the government or police March, 
 of the city. A company of fcavengers would be of infinite life to 
 the comfort and health of the inhabitants of Batavia ; but there is no 
 fuch eflablilhment. 
 
 The heat of the fun is {o great, that the canals are frequently dried 
 up, or their waters rendered putrid : but this is not fo malignant a 
 fource of peflilential difeafe, as the naftinefs that prevails among the 
 lower clalTes of the people, and the inattention to remove the recep- 
 tacles of putrefad:ion among the higher orders of them. Nor is it 
 cafily to be reconciled, that the fpirit of cleanlincfs, fo prevalent in 
 Holland, fhould fo totally evaporate in a voyage to the mofl: im- 
 portant of its Afiatic pofTeffions. Nay, it has been confidered by poli- 
 tical writers, that the inattention to remedy the evils which have been 
 defcribed, is to be attributed to the commercial policy of the Dutch, in 
 order to difcourage foreigners from fettling among them, and fharing 
 the great, but hazardous advantages to be derived from participating 
 in any branch of commerce in this oriental emporium : or, in cafe of a 
 foreign war, to deter any enemy from invading a place, the very airs of 
 which are more hoftile to human life, than the weapons of battle. 
 I fliall only add, that, within the laft twenty years, no lefs than ninety- 
 eight thoufand deaths appear on the records of the public hofpital 
 in Batavia. 
 
 At fix o'clock in the merning we weighed anchor and made fail, Sunday 17. 
 running between the ifland of Onroofl and the main. 
 
 This ifland is fituated in the middle of the bay, and about four 
 miles from Batavia. Its length does not exceed three quarters of a 
 mile, and it is no more than half a niile in breadth. It contains, 
 neverthelefs, an handfome populous town, with a Ilrong fort. In 
 
 G 2 this
 
 ( 44 ) 
 1793' this little fpot there are feveral founderies and manufadures, and the 
 "^jl^ciu whole is a fcene of induftry and landfcape beauty. It is alfo fur- 
 rounded with feveral iflands of the fame defcription, mofl of which 
 are inhabited ; great numbers of people wifely preferring thefe fitua- 
 tionsj which, though immoderately hot, are free from thofe contagi- 
 ous difeafes that infed the city and fuburbs of Batavia. 
 
 CHAP. ir.
 
 ( 45 ) 
 
 CHAP. 11. 
 
 The Jackall brig rejoins the Lion. Leighton, the carpenter, murdered 
 by the Malays. Lord Macartney views the fpot ivbere Colonel 
 Cathcart was buried. Came to Pulo Condore ; Jome account of its 
 inhabitants ; their alarm. Pajj'ed various iJlanJs. Arrived at 
 Turo7i bay, in Cochin China. Several inandarins came on board 
 the Lion; an account of them. 7 he chicj minifer of the King of 
 Cochin China vifts Lord Macartney . Prefents received. Lord 
 Macartney returns the vift on Jhore in form. The mafler of the 
 Lion fei%ed by the natives, but reUafed in a few days. T'he inter- 
 ment of Mr. Tot hill, purfer of the Lion. 
 
 X. HE owner of the French brig came on board, and was paid for '793- 
 her in dollars. .March. 
 
 Monday i8. 
 
 The weather infupportably hot : Lord Macartney was flill fo much Tucfday ig. 
 indifpofed as not to fee company. 
 
 The new brig joined us, which Lord Macartney was pleafed to Wednef- 
 name the Clarence, in honour of his Royal Highncfs the Duke of ^Y ^°' 
 Clarence. 
 
 Boarded the x^chlllcs, from Oflcnd to Batavia, who gave fome Thurfdayzi. 
 account of the Jackall brig, with whom we parted company in a gale 
 of wind, in the Bay of Bifcay. 
 
 This morning, at fix, we difcovcrcd a fail at a great diflancc, wliich, Saturday 33, 
 from the account given by the Oflend veffel, was fuppofed to be the 
 Jackall. After a long fcries of doubts, conjcdures, and folicitudes on 
 
 the
 
 I 46 ) 
 
 1793- the fubjed, Sir Erafmus Gower difpatched Lieutenant Cox, in the 
 ' March. pinnace, to afcertain the truth. At noon, the pinnace returned with 
 the ao-rceable intelligence, that the {hip we had feen was the Jackall 
 brig, whom we had long ago fuppoled to have been loft. 
 
 6T]nday24. Mr. Saunders, from the Jackall, came on board to deliver his log- 
 book to Sir Erafmus Gower. At four o'clock, we faw a fail, which 
 proved to be the Concord, from China to Bengal. 
 
 Friday 19. William Leighton, Lord Macartney's joiner, who went afhore, in 
 GoodKnday. ^^.^^^ ^q wafh his linen at the watering-place at Sumatra beach, was 
 murdered by the Malays. His body being found covered with 
 wounds, was brought on board the Lion, and afterwards interred, with 
 all becoming ceremony and refpedl, on North ifland. He was a very 
 - ingenious artifan, and an honeft, intelligent, and amiable man. But 
 the melancholy which pervaded every countenance throughout the 
 Ihip's company, on his death, is a more honourable and decided 
 tcftimony of his merit and charadler, than any expreflions of regard 
 which I might employ on the occafion. 
 
 April. At half part fix, A. M. we weighed and came to fail ; at eight, 
 
 on a> !• Mortnay Ifland, foiith by eaft ; Stroome Rock, fouth-eall:, half a 
 mile: at eleven, came too, in feventeen fathom water. Angara 
 Point, flag-ftaff, fouth by eaft. The cap, north-north-eaft, and 
 button, north by eaft. The accommodation ladder was hoifted out 
 after dinner, and foon after Lord Macartney, accompanied by Sir 
 Erafmus Gower, went afliore, and viewed the fpot where the Ho- 
 nourable Colonel Cathcart, brother to Lord Cathcart, a former Mi- 
 nifter from the King of Great Britain to the court of China, was in- 
 terred ; and whofe death put an end to that diplomatic expedition. 
 
 The weather continued moderate, with occafional frefti breezes 
 and light airs, for the fiicceeding fortnight, which was employed in 
 wooding, watering, receiving buffaloes on board, and making the 
 
 neccffary
 
 ( 47 ) 
 
 necefTary arrangements for the rennaining part of the voyage. We 179?- 
 paffcd, and, occarionally, anchored at Ninah Ifland, and the Polar, April. 
 Hound, and Tamarind iflands. 
 
 At four in the afternoon the body of Tharbuny Ifland bore north- Sunday 14,. 
 north-weft ; at five came into fifteen fathom water. Found here the 
 SulHvan homeward bound Indiaman, the J;Kkall, and the Clarence, 
 with an Imperial fhip. Arrived the Royal Admiral Indiaman. 
 
 The Sullivcui and the Royal Admiral, Indiamen, failed for England. TUcfday 16.. 
 
 We continued coafting along, and pafi^ed by numerous iflands, with 
 moderate weather ; w hich was only once interrupted by a fquull, ac- 
 companied by rain, and followed by thunder and lightning, till we 
 came to anchor in the fouth-weftern extremity of Pulo Condore bay. 
 
 A party, foon after our arrival, went on fliore, after having called May. 
 at the Hmdoftan, for Sir George and Mr. Staunton, and Mr. ThundayiO. 
 Niaung, one of the Chinefe interpreters. We reached the fliore in 
 about an hour and a half; and, on our landing, fome of the natives 
 came out to meet us on the beach, with whom we proceeded towards 
 a wood, with fix men from the boats, properly armed WMth muf- 
 quets and ammunition. We had not, however, proceeded more than 
 an hundred yards, when we came to a few miferable huts, built of 
 bamboo, and fcattercd about the place where they are fituated. One 
 of them was inhabited by a perfon ftyled rhe chief, or mandarin, in 
 whom was vefted the government of the ifland. This hut, like the 
 reft, was raifed about three feet from the ground, with a roof of 
 bamboo, and fupported by four pofts fixed in the earths Such is 
 the only miferable flielter which the inhabitants poflTefs. 
 
 In this houfe, if it may be thought to defcrve that name, there 
 were feveral people, all natives of Cochin China, but who fpoke 
 the Tartar language. None of them, except the chief, had any 
 
 covering
 
 1793- 
 
 ( 48 ) 
 
 covering but a flrip of linen round their vvaifls, and a kind of black 
 turban on their heads. The chief, to whom the reft paid great obe- 
 dience, was diftinguifhed by wearing a loofe black gown, made of a 
 ftuff like crape ; under which he wore a wide pair ot black filk 
 trowfers. Over his ilioulder was thrown a filver cord, to which was 
 fufpended behind a fmall embroidered bag of verj exquifite work- 
 manlliip. His head was alfo covered with a black turban ; but he 
 was, in common with the reft, without flioes. 
 
 At the diftance of a few yards from the hut ftood their temple, 
 whofe exterior form was the fame as the other buildings. The infide 
 was furniflied, or, as it muft have been confidered by them, orna- 
 mented with fome old fire-arms, a few cutlaftes, and three daggers. 
 One fwivel, and fome long fpontoons, were laid acrofs the roaf: 
 there were alfo feveral lances, and creafes (a kind of poifonous dag- 
 ger, ufed by the Afiatic favages) piled up againft a bamboo poft, in 
 the middle of the building. It was evident, from the condud: of 
 thefe people, that they were not accuftomed to the ufe of fire-arms, 
 as they appeared to confider thefe warlike inftruments as objedts of 
 adoration. This opinion was confirmed by the alarm and aftonifti- 
 mcnt they exprefled on my difcharging a mufquet at the trunk of a 
 tree ; and the eagernefs with which they examined the place where 
 the ball had entered. But this did not content them ; for they con- 
 trived to extrad; the ball, which they fhewed to each other with 
 marks of extreme amazement. 
 
 We remained near two hours on fliore, and entered into a 
 treaty with the chief, to procure us as many buffaloes, with as much 
 poultry, fruit, &c. as could be fpared from the ifiand, and for which 
 he was to be paid his own price : to this propofition he readily agreed, 
 andpromilcd that thecommilTion fliould be immediately executed, and 
 the different articles be ready for delivery on the next day. After the 
 agreement was thus amicably fettled, the chief offered us a regale of rice 
 &nd fidi, of which we all tafted. He then pointed to fome cocoa-nut 
 
 trees,
 
 ( 49 ) 
 
 trees, as if to know if wc fhould chufe to h:ivc any of them; and no 
 fooner was it fignificd to him that a prcfcnt of that fruit would be- 
 very acceptable, than a number of his people were inftantly ordered 
 to gather them. It was furprifing to fee with what agility they 
 climbed up thofc very lofty trees ; and as they threw down tlie 
 nuts, others below immediately fkinnetl and handed them round to 
 the company. We then took our leave of the mandarin, and on 
 our way to the beach faw fcveral canoes which were building, and 
 one of them appeared to be of a very ingenious conftrudtion. 
 
 The ifland of Pulo Condorc has but few inhabitants, and thofe it pof- 
 feflcs are not collccited together in any town, but live in bamboo huts, 
 fcattcred up and down the country. It produces no fruit but cocoa-nuts 
 and water-melons, and no grain but fomc coarfc rice. It has, however, 
 plenty of buftaloes, with a kind of wild-duck, and the common 
 fowls, fome of which are domcfticated with them. This ifland, 
 however, has a noble bay, which produces a fifh that refembles our 
 whiting, in great abundance, and has a fafe anchorage, except along 
 the fhore, where for about three quarters of a mile it is full of 
 Ihoals. The ifland is fubjed: to the King of Cochin China, and lies 
 in the Chinefe ocean. Long, one hundred and feven deg. twenty-fix 
 min. eafl:. Lat. two deg. forty min. north. 
 
 On returning to the fliips we met with a very heavy fqiiall, at- 
 tended with violent rain. 
 
 This morning I went afhore with a party, accompanied by Mr. Friday 17. 
 Niaung, in order to receive the feveral articles for ^\■hich a bargain had 
 been made with the mandarin on the preceding day. 
 
 On our landing, and going to the hut belonging to the Chief, we 
 found, to our utter aftonifliment, that the people had deferted their 
 habitations, and carried off every article with them : even the temple 
 
 H was
 
 ( 50 ) 
 
 179,-?- ^vas Gripped of all its warlike treafure. This extraordinary and. 
 
 iJCT"^^ une^peited circumitance was, however, explained in a letter, which 
 we found in the Chief's hut. It was written in Chinefe characflers, 
 and expreffed the apprehenfions of the iflanders at feeing our fliips in 
 their bay ; a fight they had never beheld before. In lliort, this ap- 
 pearance was fo formidable to them, that they concluded our defigns 
 mufl: be hoflile ; and in order to avoid the deflrudiion which they ima- 
 gined us to have meditated againll them, they had, during the night, 
 conveyed away their effedls, and retired to the mountains. The letter 
 alfo reprefented their extreme poverty, and implored us with the moft 
 humble expreffions, not to burn or deftroy their huts, as they pro- 
 pofed to re-inhabit them as foon as the fquadron had failed. We, 
 therefore, returned to the fliips as we left them, without fruits, or 
 fowls, or buffaloes. 
 
 Saturday i8. Heavy gales. At four in the afternoon, fqually ; at eight, weighed 
 anchor, and came to fail. 
 
 TliuFfdayas. Having paffed in the intermediate time feveral iflands of different 
 forms, we, this day, faw the extremes of Pulo Canton, an ifland 
 off the coaft of Cochin China, bearing north by weft, to north- 
 weft by weft. 
 
 Sunday 26. At nine in the evening anchored in Turon Bay, in Cochin 
 China. Found here a Portuguefe brig, who faluted us with eleven 
 guns. 
 
 Monday 27. The Ihip's Company employed in watering. The water here is of 
 a reddifh colour. Several proas came along-fide the Lion with ducks, 
 cocoa-nuts, and joghry, for fale. Several mandarins alfo came on 
 board to fee the fhip. 
 
 TuefdayaS. Men wcrc fent on fliore to raife tents for the fick. 
 
 4 The
 
 ( 51 ) 
 
 The Ambafliidor was vifitcd by fcvcial mandarins, with a great '79V 
 train of attendants. They were entertained with wines and U- Mi)- 
 quors of various kinds, which, however, they were very cautious d!ya9" 
 in tafting, till Lord Macartney banithed all apprchenfion by fetting 
 them the example • they then drank, without rcferve, whatever 
 was offered to thein ; but they appeared to prefer cherry and 
 rafbcrry brandy, above all the other liquors with which they were 
 reo-aled. 
 
 "o 
 
 The drefs of thcfe pcrfons confifted chiefly of a black loofe gown, 
 of a kind of cr.ipc, with filk trowfers, flippers, and a black turban : a 
 girdle, of filvcr cordage, was alfo tied round their waifls. Some of 
 them, bat whether it arofc from accident, or was a badge of dif- 
 tinAion, I cannot tell, wore dark blue gowns of the fame ftufF. The 
 domeftics were clad in a plaid, or Tartan drefs; their trowfers were 
 tucked up to the knee, and they wore no flioes or flippers ; their 
 legs were entirely naked ; and their turban was of plaid, like the reft 
 of their very curious drefs. 
 
 In the evening, the Prime Minifler of the King of Cochin China, Friday 31, 
 came on board the Lion, accompanied by feveral mandarins, and a 
 confiderable train of attendants, to requefl: the AmbalTador's company 
 to dinner, in the name of the King, who had given his minifler a 
 fpecial commifnon to make this invitation. It was, accordingly, 
 fignificd to this diftinguifhed perfonr.ge, that his Excellency received 
 the mefTage w'ith the utmofl refpefl, and would, in confequence of it, 
 go on llioreon Tuefday morning, at ten o'clock. 
 
 After this conference, the Chinefe minifler, and his fuite, returned 
 in their barges, which were decorated in a very gaudy manner. 
 They were faluted on their departure from the fliip with five 
 guns. 
 
 Hz In
 
 ( 52 ) 
 
 »-93' In the forenoon the AmbafTador received a vifit from two man* 
 
 June. darins, who brought from the King of Cochin China a prefent, con- 
 Saturday i. .-. ' ^ ^ r ' 
 lilting 01 
 
 10 Buffaloes 
 
 50 Hogs 
 
 160 Fowls 
 
 150 Ducks 
 
 200 Bags of rice, and 
 
 6 Large jars of famptfoo. 
 
 The laft is a liquor made in China, and imported from thence. 
 
 Sunday 2. I went afhorc in the forenoon and faw the town, the name of which 
 is Fie-Foo. It confifls of nothing more than a crowd of wretched 
 bamboo huts, though it contains a fpacious market-place, well fup- 
 plied with ducks, fowls, eggs, cocoa-nuts, and fruits. The fur- 
 rounding country is flat, and very fertile : but the natives feem to 
 have little or no idea of cultivation, which would make it the fcene 
 of extreme abundance. Their principal traffic feems to be with 
 their women, by configning them, for a certain confideration, to the 
 fociety of Europeans who touch here. They have no coin, but a 
 fort of fmall caxee; and all their filver is in the form of long bars, 
 or wedges. The refidence of the principal mandarin confifts of a 
 large open range of bamboo huts, of a better form, and more elegant 
 appearance than the reft ; containing feveral rooms of a tolerable fize 
 and proportions, which are fitted up and furniflied in a neat and 
 ornamental manner. 
 
 Monday 3. In thc aftcrnoon the Ambaflador's guards, with fome of the ma- 
 rines, went on ihore to pradiife the ceremonial duties that had been 
 afligned them for the following day. 
 
 Tuefday4. This morning the AmbafTador, attended by his whole fuite, in full 
 
 uniform, with Sir Erafmus Gower, Captain Mackintofh, and feveral 
 
 of
 
 ( Si ) 
 of the officers of the Lion and the Hindoftan, went on fliore with great , ^''^^ ^ 
 ceremony; when, in honour of the birth-day of our moft excellent J"'" 
 Sovereign, George the Third, he was fainted with twenty-one guns 
 by the Lion, the Hindoftan, and Portugucfe brig. The Britirti 
 troops, with their oflicers and band of mufic, had been previoufly 
 fent alhore to wait his Excellency's arrival. 
 
 On this day the royal ftandard of Great Britain was difplaycd at the 
 main-top-gallant-royal maft ; the St. George's enfign at the fore-top- 
 gallant ditto ; and the union at the mizcn. 
 
 The AmbafTador was received, on his landing, by feveral manda- 
 rins with every mark of attention and refjiedl j when he proceeded, 
 under an efcort of his own troops, to the houfe of the Prime Miniftcr, 
 where a collation in the beil manner of the country was prepared for 
 him. Here his Excellency remained for fome time ; and, after an 
 exchange of mutual civilities, returned to the Lion, when he was 
 faluted by fifteen guns from all the Ihips lying at anchor. 
 
 T went afhore in the afternoon, and purchafetl fome fruit and fugar Wednefdayj. 
 of a very good quality : it is made in large cakes, and refcmbles fine 
 bread, for which, at fome fmall diftance, it may be actually mif- 
 taken. I alfo faw fix large elephants, which had been brought for 
 the amufement of the mandarins : they appeared to be perfe(illy inno- 
 cent, were obedient to every command, and performed many feats of 
 unwieldy agility. Thcfe huge animals moved at the rate of eight 
 miles an hour. 
 
 On this morning the fick were received on board the fliips from the Friday 7, 
 flation on fhore. 
 
 Mr. Jackfon, mafter of the Lion, went in the cutter to take founding.s 
 in the bay; but having gone up the mouth of the river Campvella, which 
 rifes about eighty miles up the country, and forms a confluence with 
 
 the
 
 ( 54 ) 
 the river that difchargcs itfelf into Turon Bay, he inconfidcrately 
 began to furvey, and take plans of, the coaft ; but, in attempting to 
 execute this defign, he, with the feven men who accompanied him, 
 were made prifoners by the natives, who feized the boat, and carried 
 them to the-capital city of the kingdom. 
 
 This very dif;\greeable intelligence was communicated from the 
 fliore by the mandarins, whofe good offices were earneftly folicited by 
 Lord Macartney, and Sir Erafmus Gower, to obtain the return of 
 thefe men to the fliip. Indeed, this unrefleding condud: of the 
 mafter might, as it was apprehended, be attended with con(equences 
 that would have interrupted the courfe of the embalTy ; as the country 
 of Cochin China is tributary to the Chinefe empire, and fends an 
 annual Ambaffador to the court of Pekin; fo that all this bufmefs 
 might have been mifreprefented in fuch a manner to the Chinefe gcfi 
 vernment, as to have leffened the good difpofitions we were difpofed 
 to believe that they entertained towards the Britifh emba0y. In 
 fliort, it appeared, that very ferious apprehcnfions were entertained 
 on that fubjedl, by thofe who were the bell qualified to form a right 
 judgment of the policy and temper of the court which was the objed; 
 of our deliination. 
 
 Tuefdayii. Mr. Niaung, one of the interpreters, went on fliore with fome of 
 the AmbalTador's fuite, to inquire concerning the Britiih prifoners, 
 and he was informed by the mandarins, that they had been releafed, 
 and were on their return. 
 
 Wednef- William Tothill, Efq. purfer of the Lion, died this morning, after 
 ^^ "' an illncfs of a few days. 
 
 The King of Cochin China fent another large prefent of rice to the 
 Ambaffador. 
 
 The
 
 ( 5S ) 
 The body of Mr. Tothill was interred on fliorc with every pofTible i70i- 
 mark of refpcd: and regard : Sir Erafmus Gower alfo ordered an in- June, 
 fcriptiou to be cut in wood, which was afterwards placed on his ^^'** 
 
 grave. 
 
 At four o'clock in the afternoon Mr. Jackfon returned with the 
 cutter and his men, from their imprifonmerit ; during which period 
 they h<id undergone the fevereft fufFerings both in body and mind ; 
 and no circumltance, but their belonging to the Britifh embafly, could 
 have prefervcd them from being put to death. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 ( 56 ) 
 
 C HAP. III. 
 
 Leave 'Turon Bay. Sir George Staunton^ &c. fail in the Jackall for 
 Macao. Enter the Telloiv Sea. Lieut. Campbell goes to Mettow. 
 Prefent from the mandarin of Chufan. Number oj fick on board the 
 Lion. Mejfrs. Huttner and Plumb go to Mcttoiv to arrange the land- 
 ing of the embafy . A mandarin arrives on board. The foldiers, 
 mechanics, and fuite go on board the ju?iks, with the prefent s, bag' 
 gage, &c. The Ambajfador lands at Mettow. Defer ipt ion of that 
 place. 
 
 x\.T four in the afternoon weighed and fet fail from Turon Bay. 
 
 Sunday i6. 
 
 Thurflay2o. The weather was moderate and fair. At fix P. M. faw the land 
 north-north-eafl j at eight the body of the Grand Ladrone bore north- 
 north-eaft. 
 
 Sir George and Mr. Staunton, with one of Lord Macartney's fecre- 
 taries, were charged with letters and bulinefs to the commiiri oners, 
 Meffrs. Brown, Irvine, and Jackfon, who were fent from England to 
 notify in China the expedled embafly, and who were then at Macao. 
 They accordingly fet fail in the Jackall brig, accompanied by the 
 Clarence, for that place, to execute their commiffion. Mr. Coa and 
 Mr. Niaung, the Chinefe interpreters, accompanied them on the' 
 occafion, with the defign to proceed over land to the place of their 
 nativity. 
 
 Thefe worthy and amiable men took a very affecflionate leave of 
 their friends on board the Lion, with whom they had made fo long a 
 
 voyage;
 
 ( 57 ) 
 voyage; but with all the impatience natural to tb.ofe wlio had been i7,t. 
 removed at fuch a diftancc, and for (o great a length of time, from * T^T" 
 their relations, friends, and native land. 
 
 At half paft eight in the morning we came to anchor in eleven fathom 
 water, on the north point of the Grand Ladrohe ifland. 
 
 The Jackall and Clarence returned from Macao. Sir George St.iun- Sim^nyi?. 
 ton foon after came on board ; and, from the intelligence communi- 
 cated to him by the CommiHioners, th6 mod finguine hopes were en- 
 tertained that this extraordinary and important embafly would be 
 •crowned with fuccefs. 
 
 We now entered the Yellow Sea, -when nothing material happened, 
 that can juftify particular defcription, till we arrived at the end of this 
 branch of our voyage, la our paflage, we faw many iflands, and 
 occafionally met with Chinefe junks, fifhing-boats, and other cir- 
 cumftances, which denoted our approach to that part of the continent 
 to which we were dellined. 
 
 There being feveral rocks on the Chinefe coaft, in the Yellow Sea, 
 that had no denomination in any chart. Sir Erafmus Gower thought 
 proper to name them after the three principal charadlers of the embaify. 
 Thus we find our journds contain, in this part of the voyage, the 
 names of Cape Macartney ; Cape Gower, and Staunton's Ifland. 
 
 At fix o'clock in the afternoon, the Lion came to an anchor in July, 
 Jangangfoe Bay; Mettow Iflands bearing from north, to north- wefl: "" '^y*'- 
 by wefl:, two miles off fliore. 
 
 Lieut. Campbell, with Mr. Huttner, Mr. Plumb, and Lieut. Om- 
 maney, went in the cutter to Mettow, to be informed if there was 
 any track by which the Lion could enter the river, or if there was any 
 river on that coafl:, which was navigable for Ihips of her burthen, and 
 
 I by
 
 C 5S ); 
 1793. by whofe'navlgation flie could make a nearer approach to the capital. 
 "^jTlT"^ If the anfwers to thefe inquiries did not prove fatisfadlory, thofe gen- 
 tlemen were then to concert msafures with the mandarin of the place 
 for the diiembarkation of the fuite there. 
 
 i^ionday 22. The brig Endeavour arrived from Macao and Canton with difpatches 
 from the CommilTioners. 
 
 Tuefdaya^. This iTioming a mandarin of Chufan fent a prefent of twelve fine- 
 fmall bullocks, a number of hogs, with a. large quantity of fruit, 
 garden fluff, and rice. 
 
 Thurfday2;. The cutter returned with Lieut. Campbell and his company, who- 
 gave a very favourable account of the hofpitality of the Chinefe at 
 Mettow; where they were not only received with the greateft civility,, 
 but furnilhed with every poffible accommodation, and fapplied with 
 the greatefl plenty and abundance. At the fame time Mr. Campbell, 
 reported the abfolute impradicability of proceeding further, as the 
 whole way to the mouth of the river forms a chain of flioals, while a- 
 bar runs acrofs the entrance of it, which is not more than fix feet 
 deep, even at high water. In confequence of this report, Sir Erafmus 
 Gower refolved to proceed no further. 
 
 S«turday 27. The report of the furgeon amounted to ninety-three men lick on- 
 board the Lion. 
 
 The Jackall and Clarence failed with Mr. Huttncr and Mr. Plumb 
 to Mettow, to make arrangements with the mandarins for the land- 
 ing of the embaify, and to fix the time when the Ambaflador fliould 
 go on fhore: the refult of whofe commillion was, that large junks 
 would be fent for the reception of the fuite and baggage, as foon as 
 the wind fcrved. 
 
 A pre-
 
 , ( 59 ) 
 A prcfcnt of fixtcen bullocks, thirfy-two fine large flieep, fomc >793- 
 hogs, with vegetables, tea, iugar. Sec. was fcnt on board the Lion. A ' Au^. 
 principal mandarin alfo came on board from one of the junks, and dined ^'''''''>' '• 
 with Lord Macartney; where he appeared in a very aukward fituation, 
 as the Chincfe do not know the ufe of knives and forks. This ofli- 
 cer finally fettled with his Excellency that the fucceeding Monday 
 fhould be the day of his difembarkation ; but that the heavy baggage, 
 &c, Ihould be previoufly tranrtiipped into the junks. The mandarin 
 cxprefled great furprifc at our wooden palace, and could fcarcc believe 
 the various arrangements and wonderful convcnicncies of it. He was 
 hoifled into one of our boats in the accommodation chair ; a ceremony 
 with which he appeared to be infinitely delighted. 
 
 A mandarin came on board to dinner. The' prefents, baggage, Sunday 4. 
 &c. were all fliipped into the junks ; on board which vefTels the 
 foldiers, mechanics, and great part of his Excellency's fervants, were 
 alfo feat. 
 
 This morning at four o'clock feveral junks came along fide the Lion Monday $. 
 to receive the remainder of the AmbafTador's baggage. His Excel- 
 lency then took his breakfafl: on board, and w'as joined by the remain- 
 der of his fuite from the Hmdoflan. 
 
 At eight o'clock Sir Erafmus Gower gave orders for the fliip's com- 
 pany toman fhip, previous to his Excellency's difembarkation, which 
 took place almofl: immediately ; when he was fainted with three cheers 
 from the feamen, and the difcharge of nineteen guns from the Lion 
 and Hindoftan. 
 
 At nine o'clock the remainder of the fuite took their flations on diffe- 
 rent junks J the Ambaffador, Sir George Staunton and fon, having gone 
 on board the Clarence brig, the accommodations of the junks being not 
 only very inconvenient, but extremely dirty, and otherwife very unfit 
 to receive them. 
 
 I 2 > The
 
 C 60 ) 
 
 1793- The number of junRs employed on this occafion for the reception of 
 
 #^ugua. the fuite and baggage^ amounted to twenty fail, of about an hundred 
 tuns burthen. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon we fiw the town and fort of Mct- 
 tow ; at three the junks came to anchor at the mouth of the river, 
 where we found the Jackall, Clarence, and Endeavour arrived before 
 us. From the feveral Ihort windings at this part of the river, we 
 were obliged frequently to anchor and weigh, in order to avoid the 
 flioals. 
 
 At four the whole fleet came to anchor oppofite the palace of the 
 principal mandarin. 
 
 The town, though extenfive, has not the charm of elegance or the 
 merit of uniformity ; indeed, its fituation is fuch as to exclude any 
 encouragement to beautify and adorn it, as it is fituated on a fwamp, 
 ocoifioned by the frequent overflowing of the fea, notwithfl:anding the 
 precaution of the inhabitants to make an embankment on the fhore. 
 
 The houfes, or huts, for they rather deferve the latter name, are 
 built altogether of mud, with bamboo roofs : they are very low, and 
 without either floors or pavements. At a fmall difl:ance from the 
 town there are feveral buildings of a very fuperior form and appearance, 
 which belong to the mandarins of the place: they are conflrudled of 
 flone and wood ; the body of the houfe being of the former, and 
 the wings and galleries, which are very pretty, and painted of va- 
 rious colours, of the latter material: they are of a fquare form, and 
 three ftorics in height ; each ftory having a furrounding range of pa- 
 lifadoes, which are richly gilt and fancifully painted. The lower 
 ftory, or ground floor, is fronted with piazzas, which are ornamented 
 in the fame manner. The wings projeft on each fide the body of the 
 houfc, and appear to contain a confiderable range of apartments. 
 
 2 , Each
 
 ( 6i ) 
 
 Each .mandarin is attended by a great number of guards, confifting '793- 
 both of inf^mtry and cavalry, who live in tents pitched round the refi- Auguft. 
 dcnce of the perfonage whom they ferve. 
 
 Notvvithftanding its unfavourable fituation, the immcnfc crowd of 
 fpcdlators who aircniblcd to fee the AmbaiTador come on fliorc, proves 
 Mettow to be a place of prodigious population. Many of thefc cu- 
 rious people were on horfeback and in carriages ; fo that the banks of 
 the river where our junks lay at anchor were entirely covered with 
 them. 
 
 The only fort in this place confifls fimply of a fquare tower, and 
 feems to have been conflrudied for ornament rather than public utility; 
 for. though it ftands on the very margin of the fea, and commands 
 the entrance of the river, not a fmglc piece of ordnance appears on the 
 walls. 
 
 The breadth of this part of the river is about a furlong, and the 
 colour of the water is muddy, refembling that of the Yellow Ocean 
 with which it mingles : its depth is very unequal, being in fome parts 
 nine, and in others fix feet deep ; but in no part lefs than two. At 
 the entrance, as has been already mentioned, there is a bar or bank of 
 i'and, which ftretches acrofs it, and at full tide has not more depth 
 than fix or feveh feet; though on the lide towards the fea, and at a 
 few yards only from the bar, there is upwards of fix fathoms water. 
 
 The environs of the town prcfent, on both fides the river, an 
 expanfe of flat country. The foil is rich, and can boaft extraordi- 
 nary fertility. 
 
 In the evening we received from the mandarin a very refrefhing and 
 acceptable prefent of drcfled meats and fruits. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 ( 6. ) 
 
 TiieWay 6. 
 
 CHAP, IV. 
 
 yf« account of the mandarin appointed to condudl the accommodations for 
 the emhajjy. Various prefents of provl/lons. Grofs habits of the 
 Chlnefe refpccllng their food. Dfcrlptlon of the junks. Order of 
 ihofe vejfels fitted up f or the accommodation of the Brit If} Ambajfador 
 and bis fulte, 
 «793- 
 
 rne'Hav*6 •*• ^^ wliole of this morning was employed in tranfhipping the 
 baggage to the accommodation junks, hired for the embafly by Van 
 ladge-In, a mandarin of the firft clafs, who had been appointed by 
 the Emperor to condud: the bufinefs of the embafly, in every thing 
 that related to the refidence, provifions, and journey of the fuite. 
 
 This perfon became interefting to us, as he was appointed to 
 attend the embafly during the whole time we (hould remain in 
 China. He was about five feet nine inches in height, flout, well 
 made, and of a dark complexion, but of a remarkable pleafing 
 and open countenance : his manners and deportment were polite and 
 unaffedled ; and the appointment of fuch a man, fo admirably quali- 
 fied to fulfil the peculiar duties to which he was nominated, gave us a 
 very favourable opinion of the good fenfe of the Chinefe government, 
 and ferved to encourage our hopes of fuccefs in the important objects 
 of this diftinguiflaed embafly. 
 
 We received at noon, from the mandarin's boat, which was ac- 
 companied by Mr. Plumb, Lord Macartney's interpreter, a quantity 
 of raw beef, with bread and fruit : the beef, though not fat, is of a 
 very good quality ; but the bread, though made of excellent flour, was 
 ^y no means plcafant to our palate : as the Chinefe do not majs.e ufe of 
 
 yeaft.
 
 ( (^3 ) 
 
 yeaft, or bake it in an oven, it is, in fad:, little better than commondough. 1793. 
 The Ihape and fizc of the loaves are thofe of an ordinary waOi-iiall ^AuguftT 
 cut in two. They are compoied of nothing more than flour and water, 
 and ranged on bars which are laid acrofs an iron hollow pan, contain- 
 ing a certain quantity of water, which is then placed on an earthen 
 ftovc : when the water boils, the velTcl, or pan, is covered over with 
 fomething like a fhallow tub, and the fleam of the water, for a few 
 minutes, is all the baking, if it may be fo called, which the bread 
 receives. In this ftate we found it neccfUiry to cut it in flices and 
 toafl: it, before we could reconcile it to our appetites. The fruits, 
 which made a part of this prcfcnt, confifted of apples, pears, flaad- 
 docks, and oranges of a fuperior flavour. 
 
 In the aftemon wc received another very large fupply of provilions 
 ready drefled, confifting of beef, mutton, pork, whole pigs, and poul- 
 try of all forts, both roaft and boiled. 
 
 The roafl niCitt had a very lingular appearance, as they ufe fome 
 preparation of oil, that gives it a glofs like that of varnifli ; nor was its 
 flavour fo agreeable to our palates, as the difhes produced by the clean 
 and fimple cookery of our European kitchens. Their boiled meat, 
 being free from the oily tafle of that which is roafted or baked, was 
 lar preferable. 
 
 We were, however, in fome degree, affeded by the accounts we 
 had heard of the indifference of the Chinefe, concerning their food; 
 and that they not only eat all animal food without diftindion, but do 
 not difcard even fuch as die of difeafes, from their meals. This cir- 
 cutnft ance made feveral of our party very cautious of what they eat ; 
 and as to their haflics and flews, many refufcd their allowance of thefe 
 difhes, from the apprchcnfion of their being compofed of unwholefome 
 
 But
 
 ( 64 ) 
 
 But it was not merely from the information of others that we felt a dif- 
 guft at Chinefe cookery, as we had ocular demonftration of the grofs ap- 
 petites of the Chinefe people. The pigs on board the Lion being affeft- 
 ed with a diforder, which is always fatal to thefe animals, feveral of 
 them were thrown overboard ; — which circumftance being obferved by 
 the Chinefe belonging to tiie junks, they inftantly got out their boats 
 and picked up thefe difeafed carcafes, which they immediately cut up, 
 and having drclfed a part of them, appeared to make a very comfortable 
 meal, that was accompanied with frequent marks of dcriHon at the 
 Englifli for their foolifa extravagance. 
 
 We were at firfl: difpofed to believe that tliis grofsnefs of appetite 
 was confined to the lower claffes of the people, who were generally in 
 fuch a flate of indigence, as to be glad to obtain meat in the accidental 
 way which \vq have juft mentioned : but we afterwards learned, that 
 the more independent claffes of people, and even the mandarins them- 
 felves, are not exempt from a cuftom, in domeflic ceconomy, at which 
 the eager appetite of the ftarving European would revolt. 
 
 In the warm feafon, this part of the country fwarms with mof- 
 quitos, that tormenting infed: which is fo diftreffing to the inhabitants 
 of the warmer climates. 
 
 Wednef. This moming I went on board the accommodation junk, occupied 
 
 '* by Captain Mackintolh, of the Hindoftan, who was required to ac- 
 company the embaffy to Pekin. The fquadron, in the mean time, 
 received inftruftions to return to Chufan harbour, and to wait there till 
 further orders. 
 
 The junks, or Chinefe veflels, are formed on a conftrudlion I never 
 remember to have feen in any other part of the world. They are 
 built of beach wood and bamboo, with a flat bottom : they are of 
 different fizes, from thirty to an hundred feet in length ; the breadth 
 
 of
 
 ( 65 ) 
 
 of the largcfl: arc from twenty to thirty feet, and the fmalki' ones in 
 proportion. 
 
 In this junk there was on the firrt deek a range of ver)' neat and 
 comniodious apartments, which were clean, and decorated with paint- 
 ings. They confifted of three fleeping apartments, a dining partour, 
 with a kitchen, and two rooms for iervants. The floor is made to 
 lift up, by hutches all along the junk, to each of which there is a brafis 
 ring : beneath is an hold, or vacant fpace for containing lumber ; and 
 the quantity of goods that can be llowed away in thefc places is almoll: 
 incredible. 
 
 On the upper or main deck, there is a range of fourteen or fifitecn 
 fmall chambers, allotted for the ufc of the men belonging to the junk, 
 and an apartment for the captain or 0A\ner of the veffel. 
 
 In the lower deck, the windows are made of w^ood, with very fmall 
 fquare holes, covered with a fort of glazed, tranfparent paper ; tiie 
 fafhes are divided into four parts, and made to take out occafionally, 
 either to admit the air for coolnefs, or to fweeten the apartments. On 
 the outfide there is a coloured curtain, that extends from one end of 
 the junk to the other, which, in very hot weather, is unfurled and 
 fixed up to Ihade the apartments from the heat of the fun. There arc 
 alfo Ihutters, which Hide before the windows on the outfide, to pre- 
 vent the effcds of cold weather, or any inclemency of the feafon. 
 
 There is a gang- way on both fides of the veflel, about thirty inches 
 broad, by way of pafl'age, without entering into any of the apartments ; 
 and though many of thcie veffels carry from two to three hundred 
 tons, they only draw three feet water, fo that they can be worked with 
 cafe and lafety in the moft flioaly rivers. Some of thefe junks have two 
 malts, though, in general, they have but one, with a very aukward 
 kind of rudder; and the more elegant veflels of this kind, which 1 
 have juft defcribed, are only calculated for the navigation of a river; 
 
 K as
 
 ( 66 ) 
 
 as tixsj' are not- conftru<Sed with iufficicat ftrcngth to reuft the violcni: 
 cffeds of wind and weather. 
 
 It is ufual foivail v^lTels which navigate the rivers in China, to have 
 a lamp, with a hghted candle in it,, hoifted to the mail head, as loon 
 as it is dark, to prevent thofe accidents which would otherwife very 
 frequently happen from vellcls running foul of each other. Thefe 
 Limps are made of tranfparcnt paper^ with charadlers printed on it, to 
 notify what junk it is, or the rank of any paiTengers on board it : 
 if they are perfons of diflincftion, three of thefe lanterns are ufually, 
 fufpended. The vefTel is alfo illuminated in other parts of it, parti- 
 cularly round the deck ; and the number of lights are generally pro- 
 portioned to the rank of the perfons who occupy the junk. The fame 
 fervice which the lamps perform by night, as far as relates to notifica- 
 tion, is performed in the day-time by filken cnfigns, whofe printed. 
 chara(5ters fpecify in the fame manner, the exifting circumftances of' 
 ^e veflel. It may be eafily conceived, that, from the. prodigious, 
 number of junks which navigate this river, a very pleafing, and. 
 fometimes, indeed, a grand effedl is produced, by fuch an affemblage 
 of lights moving along the water. 
 
 1 am not qualified to determine whetiier: it proceeds from the domef— 
 tic policy of the Chinefe, from prejudice, in favour of long-eftabliflied:'; 
 habits, or an ignorance of mechanics, but they have not made anyad-- 
 vancement in the fcience of naval architecture : the junks of the. 
 laft century, and thofe of the prefent day, are invariably the fame. 
 
 The order in which the veffels, appropriated for the purpofe of : 
 conveying the Britifh embalfy to Rekin, proceeded, was as follows :, 
 
 The grand Mandarin,. and his fuite, in five junks. 
 Junk, No. 1. His Excellency the Earl Macartney. 
 Ditto, — 2. Sir George and Mr. Staunton. 
 
 — 3. Mr. PJumb, the Chinefe interpreter. 
 
 3 Jun^
 
 ( 67 ) 
 
 Junk, No. 4. Licutcnant-Coloncl Bcnfon, Lieutenant Parifli, and 
 
 Lieutenant Crewe. 
 
 Ditto, — 5. Captain MackiiitoUi, of tlic Hindoftan, Mr. Max- 
 well, Dodor Gillan, and Mr. Huttner. 
 
 — — • — 6. Mr. Barrow, Mr. Winder, and Mr. Baring, (fonof 
 Sir Francis Baring). 
 
 * ■ — — 7. Do(5tor Scott, Dodor Dinwiddic, Mr. Hickcy, and 
 Mr. Alexander. 
 
 Thcfe, with the junks which contained the fuldicrs, mechanics, and 
 icryants, completed the naval proceflioa. 
 
 Ka CH.VP. V.
 
 ( 6S 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 l!,ord Macartney leaves Mettozv, and fets fall for Pekin. Beauty and 
 fertility of the country. Farious circumfances of the voyage. T'he 
 foldiers of China defer ibed. The navigation. of the river. Some ac- 
 count of the tea-tree, with the manner of making tea as a beverage. . 
 Prodigious fot-ulation of the country. Arrive at the city of Tyen- 
 fing. Some account of it. A Chlnefe play. Defcription of the 
 mandarin's palace, &c. 
 
 /93- 
 
 1 HIS morning the AmbaiTador paid a vifit to the principal man- 
 Thurfday's darin of Mettow, to take leave, on his departure for Pekin: and at 
 eleven o'clock, the fleet of junks, with his Excellency and the whole 
 fuite on board, proceeded on their voyage. 
 
 We received a large fupply of provifions, ready drefled, together 
 with tea, fugar, bread, vegetables of all forts^ and a large quantity of 
 fniit, confifting of apples, pears, grapes, and oranges, which never 
 failed to make a part of thofe fupplies for the table with which the 
 cmbafTy was at all times furnifhed, in the grcatell abundance. We 
 alfo received, at this time, a provifion of wood and charcoal, for culi- 
 nary ufes. I made fome inquiries after mineral coal, but it was not 
 known at Mettow, nor could I learn whether it .is found or ufed in any 
 part of China. 
 
 We had proceeded but a very few miles up the river, when the 
 country difplayed profpedls of fuch peculiar novelty and beauty as 
 would baffle any attempts of mine to defcribe them. The view on 
 all fides prefcnts fields rich in various cultivation, with extenfive 
 meadows covered with fl\eep and the fineft cattle. Their gar- 
 dens appeared to be equally difpofed for domellic ufe and pleafure ; 
 
 producing
 
 ( 69 ) 
 producing at the fame time abundance of vegetables, and the fincfl u 
 
 fruits; while the eye was charmed with the beauty of their fcencry, and "*" ' 
 the gaiety of their decorations. On the firfl; glimpfe of their grounds, 
 whether applied to the more folid ufes of agriculture, or the more 
 elegant arrangement of their gardens, in raifing grain and efculent 
 plants, or cultivating fruits and flowers^ I was convinced that the 
 Chincfc were no mean proficients in botanical knowledge, as well 
 as the fcience of farming, and the art of ornamental gardening. I alfo 
 obferved, that the fields were as well guarded by fences, both in the 
 form of hedges and ftone walls, as any I had feen in the enclofcd parts 
 of my own country. 
 
 During the day, the guards belonging to the mandarin marched 
 along the banks of the river ; and at night pitched their tents oppofite 
 to the ftatiou where the junks lay at anchor ; when they kept a regular 
 watch till the hour of the morning when the fleet proceeded on its voyage. 
 The front of each tent was adorned with lamps, fo that the camp on 
 fhore, and the junks on the water, formed together a confiderable illu- 
 mination, and produced a. very uncommon antl pkafing. cffcd:, , 
 
 The centinels on fliore have, each of them, a piece of hollow bam- 
 boo, which they ftrike at regular intervals, with a mallet, to announce 
 that they are awake and vigilant in their refped:ive ffations. This 
 cuftom, as I was informed by the peyings, or foldicrs themfelves, is 
 univcrfal throughout the Chinefe army. 
 
 We were awakened at a very early hour by the found of the gongs, Friday g. 
 which was the lignaLfor lliiling. . 
 
 The gong is an inflrument of a circular form, made of brafs ; it 
 refemblcs, in fome degree, the cover of a large ftewpan, and is ufed as 
 bells or trumpets are in Europe, to convey notice, or make fignals 
 from one place to another : when they are ftruck with a large wooden 
 mallet, which is covered with leather, a found is produced that may 
 bc.diflindly heard at the diibnce of a league. 
 
 We
 
 ( 7° ) 
 1793- We received the ufiial fupply of provifions, with the addition, for 
 
 "T^jl. the firit time, of fome wine of the country in a ftone jar : its colour 
 is nearly that of \vhat is called Lifbon wine in England, and is equally 
 clear : it is rather ftrong, but is of an unpleafant flavour, being harlh 
 and Iharp, and, in Ihort, has more the tafte of vinegar tlian wine. 
 The jar which contained it was equal, in meafure, to three Englifli gal- 
 Jons ; and the mouth of it was covered with a large plantane leaf, clofed 
 in with a cap of clay.: on which was fixed a red label, marked witk 
 certain Chincfe characfters, to denote, as I fuppofe, the contents of the 
 ■vefleJ. 
 
 We pafTed feveral very populous towns on both fides of the river, 
 but fituated at fome diilance from it. The Ambaflador, however, 
 received military honours from the foldiers belonging to them, whe 
 were drawn up on the bank, on either fide, contiguous to their re- 
 fped:ive cantonments ; and furrounded by an immenfe crowd of fpec- 
 tators. 
 
 The uniform of the foldiers confifts of a large pair of'loofe, black 
 nankeen trowfers, which they fluff into a kind of quilted cotton 
 ftockings, made in the form of boots. They always wrap their feet 
 in a cotton rag before they draw thefe boots over their trowfers ; they 
 add alfo a pair of very clumfy fhoes, made of cotton, the foles of 
 which are, at leail, an inch thick, and very broad at the points. 
 Thefe trowfers have no waiftband, fo that they lap over, and are tied 
 with a piece of common tape, to which is generally fufpended a fmali 
 leathern bag, or purfe, to contain money. Thefe foldiers do not ufe 
 .either Ihirts, wailtcoats, or neckloths ; but wear a large mantle of 
 black nankeen, with Joofe fleeves, which is edged with nankeen of a 
 red colour. Round their middle there is a broad girdle, ornamented 
 in the center with what appears to be a pebble of about the fize of 
 .half-a-crown, though, as I was informed, it is an hard lubllance 
 ^r pafle made of rice. From this girdle is fufpended a pipe and bag 
 ^0 hold .tobacco^ on qne lidc, and a fon on the other ; which are
 
 ( V ) 
 annnally allowed them by the Emperor, as well as a daily portion of '793- 
 tobacco, a plant that grows in the utmoll abundance in every part of Auguft. 
 China. 
 
 The Chinefc troops were alvvays, when I faw them, drawn up in 
 fingle ranks, with a great number of colours or ftandards, which are 
 chiefly made of green filk, with a red border, and enriched with 
 golden charafters. They wear their fwords on the left fide, but the 
 handle or hilt is backwards, and the point forwards, fo that, when 
 they draw thefe weapons, they put their hantls behind their backs, and 
 imlheath them without being immediately perceived ; a manoeuvre 
 which they execute with great dexterity, and is well adapted fur the 
 purpofes of attack, as a foreign antagonirt, who is not accuflomed to 
 this mode of affault, would be probably wounded, at leaft, before he 
 was prepared to defend himfelf againlt it. Under their left arm is 
 flung a bow ; and a quiver, generally containing twelve arrows, 
 hangs on their backs ; others iire armed with match-locks of a very 
 nifty appearance.. 
 
 Their heads are fliaved round the crown, ears, and neck, except a- 
 fmall part on the back of the head, where the hair, which is encou- 
 raged to grow to a great length, hangs down their backs in a plait, and 
 is tied at the end with a riband. They wear a fliallow ftraw hat very 
 neatly made, which is ncceflarily tied under the chin with a Itring, and 
 is decorated with a bimch of camel's hair, dyed ot a red colour. . 
 
 On all occafions, fimilar to that which brought th'efe troops to the 
 banks of the river to do military honour to the Bntilh Ambalfador, a 
 temporary arch covered with iilk is placed at each end of the line, in 
 which the mandarins fit till the procclTion, or perfon to be faluted, 
 appears, when they come forward and make their appearance. Near 
 thefe arches are three fmall fvvivels about thirty inches in length, which 
 are fixed in the ground with the muz,^le pointing to the air: thefe arc 
 flifcharged as the perfon to be. honoured witli tiie falute pafles the 
 
 mandarin. .
 
 ( 7- ) 
 mandiirin at (he end of the iine. This mode of firing falutes the 
 Chincfe very fenlibly adopt to prevent accidents, obferving, at the 
 fame time in their account of it, that a loaded gun lliould never be 
 levelled, but at their enemies. In the management of artiller)- and 
 fire-arms, it is not to be fuppofed that Europeans can derive any 
 one improvement from the inhabitants of the call ; but we well know, 
 neverthelefs, that very melancholy, and fomctimes fatal accidents are 
 occafioned from the \\ ant of fimilar regulations, by the difcharge both 
 of great guns and fmall arms on our days of public rejoicing. 
 
 The houfes, fcattcred on the banks of the river, were chiefly built 
 of mud, rarely intermixed with fome of a better form, which were 
 conftrudied of Hone, and finillied with great neatnefs ; producing a 
 very pretty efted, as we pafTed them, from the water. 
 
 The women at thefe places, of whom we faw great numbers, 
 have their feet and ancles univerfally bound with red tape, to prevent, 
 as it is faid, their feet from growing of the natural fize: fo very tight 
 is this bandage drawn round them, that they walk with great diffi- 
 culty,; and when we confider that this extraordinary practice com- 
 mences with their infancy, it is rather a matter of furprize that they 
 fliould be able to walk at all. If we except this flrange management, 
 or rather mifmanagement, of their feet, and their head-drefs, there is 
 very little diftindion between the drefs of the males and females. 
 
 The women wear their hair combed back on the crown of the 
 head, and fmoothed with ointment : it is then .neatly rolled into a fort 
 of club, and ornamented with artificial flowers and large filver pins : 
 the hair on the back part of the head is done up as tight as poflible 
 and inferted beneath the club. In every other rcfpeft their drcfs 
 correfponds with that of the men j thej differ, indeed, in nothing from 
 that of the foldiers, which has been already defcribed, but that they 
 hear no arms, have no red border on their clothes, or tuft of hair on 
 ijlicir hats. 
 
 As
 
 f 73 ) 
 As far as I could judge of the length of iliis day's voyage, it could 'yoj- 
 not have exceeded twenty-four miles ; in the courfe ot which wc rec- AuguC. 
 koned upwards of fix hundred junks that pafled us, and I may fay, 
 without the leaft fear of exaggeration, that we favv twice that number 
 lying at anchor j nor ftiall I hefitatc to add, that, on the mofl: mode- 
 rate computation, wc beheld at leafl half a million of people. 
 
 The river, befides the variety and extent of its navigation, is in 
 itfelf a grand and beautiful objert, and enriched with an equal dillri- 
 bution of rich and picliturefque fcencry : its courfe waves in the fineft 
 meanders ; its banks on cither fide are adorned with elegant villas and 
 delightful gardens ; while the more diftant country offers the inter-' 
 mingled profpcdl of fplendid cultivation and landfcape beauty. 
 
 The fleet came to anchor clofc into the fhore at eight o'clock in thf 
 evening. 
 
 The gongs, as iifual, gaVe the fignal for weighing anchor, and pro- Saturday m 
 ceeding on our voyage. The weather was extremely hot and fultry, 
 and the country continued to wear that appearance of fertility, which 
 had hitherto diflinguifhed it. 
 
 Wc for the firfl time faw fome plantations of the tea tree, an objed: 
 which was rather interefling to the natives of a country, where, though 
 the climate will not admit of its growth, it has defcended, from being a 
 luxury, into a necefTary of life. 
 
 The tea tree is of a dwarf fize, with a narrow leaf refembling 
 myrtle. It was the feafon when thefe trees were in blofTom, which the 
 Chinefe pluck and dry ; and the younger the bloflbm is, when 
 plucked, the higher the flavour of the tea is confidered with which it 
 is mixed. 
 
 I» It
 
 ( 74 ) 
 1793- It is a curious circumftance that, although this province is fd- 
 
 Augr.ft. abundant in its produce of tea, it appears to be a very I'carce commodity 
 among the lower clafs of people ; as the men belonging to our junk 
 never failed, after we had finifhed our breakfaft, to requefl the boon of 
 our tea-leaves, which they drained and fpread in the fun until they 
 were dry; they then boiled them for a certain time, and poured them 
 with the liquor into a flone jar, and this formed their ordinary be- 
 verage. When the water is nearly drawn off, they add more boiling 
 water ; and m this manner thefe leaves are drawn and re-boiled for 
 feveral weeks. On fome particular occafions, they put a few grains of. 
 frefh tea into a cup, and, after, having poured boiling water upon it, 
 cover it up : when it has remained in this ftate for a few minutes, they 
 drink it without fugar, an article which the Chinefe never mix with 
 their tea. 
 
 We this day pafTed feveral populous villages, compofed of very neat; 
 houfes of one ftory, and built of brick ; and from everyone of them the 
 Ainbaflador received thofe honours which have been already defcribed,. 
 The crowds of people which affembled to fee a parade of fo much 
 novelty as the fleet that conveyed the Britifh embafly, were beyond all 
 calculation, and almoll beyond belief, and gave us a complete idea of 
 the immenfe population attributed to the Chinefe empire. Nor was, 
 the ftate of the navigation that appeared on the river lefs aftonifhing j; 
 the junks which we continued to fee at every moment of our palTage, 
 ^ere fometimes fo numerous, that the water was covered with them, . 
 
 The fleet came to an anchor at the ufual hour of eight o'clock in the. 
 evening.. 
 
 Sunday n. At four o'clock in the morning we renewed our voyage; the 
 country ftill appearing in its ufual flate of fertility and beauty ; and 
 as far as the delighted eye could reach, an uncultivated fpot was no 
 where to be fcen. 
 
 7 The
 
 ( 75 ) 
 The banks of the river were now varied with fields ol millet anti 
 rice. The ftalks of the former arc very tall, with branching leaves, 
 and the points of them bear the feed, which is a very principal article 
 of food in this countr)\ The rice grows very much like our corn, 
 and thrives beft in a marfhy foil : I oblcrved, indeed, that fome of the 
 rice fields were entirely covered with water. 
 
 About fix o'clock we approached the city of Tyen-fing, where wc 
 were met by crowds of fpedtators, both in junks and on the fliorc, that 
 exceeded all calculation. 
 
 As we proceeded, we faw a long range of heaps, or ricks, of fait, 
 in ranks, or columns of fifty each, from front to rear: thefe hcips 
 are about eighteen or twenty feet fquare, and twenty-four feet in 
 height, and are covered with matting to prelerve them from the efFcdts 
 of the weather J each of them containing, as I was informed, about 
 five hundred tons of fait. In this order, and without variation, or 
 interruption, the range continued for two miles along the banks of 
 the river. For what purpofe this immenfe quantity of fiilt was de- 
 pofited there I could not learn j nor was there any appearance of a 
 manufactory to juftify the idea of its being made there. 
 
 At nine o'clock we entered the city, amidfi: the noife and flioutings 
 of, I doubt not, fome hundred thoufands of fpedlators. The houfes 
 of this place are built of brick, and, in general, are carried to the 
 height of two ftories, with roofs of tiles : they were all of a lead 
 colour, and had a very neat and pretty appearance. The place, 
 however, is not formed on any regular plan : the ftreets, or rather 
 alleys, are fo narrow, as to admit, with difficulty, two perfons to 
 walk abrcaft ; and have no pavement. It is, however, of great ex- 
 tent, and populous beyond all defcription. 
 
 Before the palace of the mandarin, a larger body of troops was 
 drawn up than we had yet feen, who carried, at leaft, one hundred 
 and fifty ftandards. 
 
 L a At
 
 ( 76 ) 
 At half paft ten, the AmbalTador, attended by all his fuite, guards, 
 &,c. in full formality, went on fhore to pay a vifit to the chief 
 mandarin of the city, whofe palace is at a fmall diftance from the 
 river, and placed in the center of a very fine garden : it is a lofty 
 edifice, built of brick, with a range of palifadoes in the front, fanci- 
 fully gilt and painted. The center building has three, and the wings 
 two ftories. The outfide wall is decorated with paintings, and the 
 roof is coloured with a yellow varnifh that produces a very fplendid 
 effed:. This building contains fcveral interior courts, handfomely 
 paved with broad flat flones. 
 
 The Ambaflador, and his fuite, xvere entertained with a cold colla- 
 tion, confifting of diflies drefled in the fafhion of the country, with 
 tea, fruit, and a great variety of confedlionary ; a branch of table 
 luxury, which is well underftood by the Chinefe. 
 
 A play was alfo performed on the occafion, as a particular mark of re- 
 fpedl and attention to the diflinguiflied vifitor. The theatre is a fquare 
 building, built principally of wood, and is eredled in the front of the 
 mandarin's palace. The ftage, or platform, is furr.ounded with gal- 
 leries ; and the whole was, on this occafion, decorated with a pro- 
 fufion of ribbons, and filken fireamers of various colours. The thea- 
 trical exhibitions confified chiefly of warlike reprefentations ; fuch as 
 imaginary battles, with fvvords, fpears, and lances ; which weapons 
 the performers mans^ged with an afloniihing activity. The fcenes were 
 beautifully gilt and painted, and the drefiTes of the adtors were orna- 
 mented in conformity to the enrichments of. the fcenery. The exhi- 
 bition was varied alio, by fcveral very curious deceptions by flight of 
 hand, and theatrical machinery. There was alfo a difplay of that 
 fpecies of agility which confiftis in tumbling, wherein the performers 
 executed their parts with fuperior addrefs and adtivity. Some of the 
 acflors were drefled in female characters j but I was informed at the time, 
 that they were eunuchs, as the Chinefe never fuffer their women to 
 appear in fuch a flate of public exhibition as the flage. The per- 
 formance
 
 ( 77 ) 
 formance was alfo enlivened by a band of mufic, wliicli confirtcc} en- '793- 
 tirely of wind inftruments : fome of them were very long, and icfcm- Auguft. 
 bled a trumpet ; others had the appearance of French-horns, and clari- 
 nets : the founds of the latter brought to my recolledion that of a Scotch 
 bag-pipe; and their mufic, being deftitute both of melody and harmony, 
 was of courfe, very difagrceable to our ears, which are accuftomcd to 
 fuch perfedion m thofe cflcntial points of mufic. But we had every 
 reafon to be fatisficd with the entertainment, the circumftances of which 
 were replete with novelty and curious amufemcnt. 
 
 The drefs of the foldiers was, with their arms and accoutrements, 
 the fame as thofe which we have already defcribed, except in the 
 colour, which was both white and blue, though equally bound with the 
 fame broad red binding : fome of them, on the prcfcnt occafion, were 
 employed, with long whips, to keep off the crowd from prefling on the 
 proceilion of the Ambaflkdor and his fuitc. 
 
 His Excellency was faluted, both on his arrival and at his depar- 
 ture, with three pieces of fmall ordnance : and, foon after his return to 
 the vefTel the fleet fet fail, amidft the greateft concourfe of boats and 
 people I ever beheld : — indeed, fo great was the crowd of both, that I 
 confidcred it to be impoflible for us to pafs on without being the wit- 
 neffes of confiderable mifchief. One very old junk that lay at anchor 
 had fuch a number of people on board it, to fee the extraordinary fight 
 of the day, that the ftcrnmoft part of the deck yielded to the enormous 
 preflTure, and fuddenly gave way, when about forty of thcfc curious 
 people fell into the river, and feveral of them were unfortunately 
 drowned. Some were, indeed, faved by clinging to the ropes which 
 were thrown out to them; though it was very evident to thofe who 
 witnelTed the accident, that curiofity rather than humanity prevailed on 
 the occafion ; and that the people were more anxious to get a fight of 
 the foreigners, than to fave the lives of their countrj-men. 
 
 We
 
 ( 78 ) 
 
 We received the ufual fupply of provifions of all kinds, and a 
 large jar of wine, from the mandarin, which contained about ten Eng- 
 li{h gallons : it was found to be of a much fuperior quality to that 
 which had been received on a former occafion, and had not only the 
 flavour, but the colour, of mountain. 
 
 A confiderable proportion of thefe provifions Avas diftributed among 
 the crews of the junks, who received fuch an accceptable m.ark of 
 kindnefs with the iitmoft gratitude and delight. The fuperfluous 
 hofpitality of their country proved, as it ought to do, a fource of 
 cccafional plenty to thefe poor people, during the courfe of that 
 voyage in which we were condudled by their {kill and labour. 
 
 It may here be mentioned that, as the quota of provifions allotted 
 by the Chinefe government for the maintenance of the embafly, was 
 on the calculation that every individual kept a feparate table, it muft 
 have been, as it really was, infinitely beyond the poffibility of being 
 confumed by thofe alone for whofe ufe it was prefented. 
 
 CHAP. VI.
 
 ( 19 ) 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Violent Jlorm of thunder and lightning. Prefents dljlributed among the 
 fuite of the cmbajfy. The tnanner of towing the junks. The ordi- 
 nary meals of the Chinefe, and their mode of preparing them. The 
 increafing appearance of the navigation. Strange habit of the lower 
 clajfes of the natives. Pajfed the town of Cho-tang-poa. Circurn- 
 fiances of the river. A viftt from the mandarin ofTyen-fng to the 
 jitnbajfador. His procejjion defer ibed. The neatnefs, fertility^ and 
 various prodiidions. of the fields on each fide of the river ^ 
 
 XJlBOUT four o'clock in the morning there was a moft tremendous 
 
 1793- 
 
 Auguft. 
 
 ftorm of thunder, lightning, and rain, which lafted about two hours. Monday n 
 
 The Mandarin of Tyen-fing having fent three parcels of coloured 
 filk, as a prefcnt, to be diflributed among the embaiTy, Mr. Max- 
 well, by Lord Macartney's order, delivered two pieces of it to each 
 gentleman in his fuite : but as the remainder did not allow of a fimi- 
 lar divifion, the lots were all feparated and numbered ; when the me- 
 chanics, fervants, and muficians, took their chance in drawing them, 
 and, except three peribns, they all obtained two pieces of the 
 manufadure. The foldiers received, each of them, half a piece: 
 thefe pieces were only half a yard wide, and about feven yards and an 
 half in length j the colours were green, mulberry, and pink; but the 
 filk was of a very indifferent quality, and v\ould not, in England, 
 be worth more than eighteen-pence a yard. It may, therefore, be 
 very eafily imagined that, on the fpot, the prefent was of little or no 
 value to thofe who received it. . 
 
 During
 
 ( 8o ) 
 During the great part of this day the junks were toned along by 
 men particularly hired for that purpofe : and the mode of drawing 
 thefe venils, as may be fuppofed, is very different from that employed 
 on fimilar occafions in any of the European rivers. 
 
 On all the rivers of China there are large bodies of men, whofc 
 bufinefs it is to drag, or tow the junks, when the wind or tide fails. 
 The method of proceeding in this bufinefs is by faftening one rope to 
 the maft, and another to the head of the junk, which, being properly 
 fecured, the draiightfmen take the rope on Ihore along with them j the 
 length of which mufb depend, in a great meafure, on the breadth of the 
 river. Thefe men have, each of them, apiece of wood, about two feet 
 and an half in length, with a piece of ftout cord at each end, by which it is 
 faftened to the ropes attached to the junk : thefe pieces of wood being 
 thrown over their heads, reft upon their breafts, and by leaning againft 
 them the towers increafe the power of their exertions : they are thus har- 
 nelled, if I may ufe the expreflion, in a ftrait line, at the diftance of about 
 a pace and an half from each other* and when they are all ready, the 
 leader of them gives the fignal : they then begin a particular kind of 
 march, the regularity of whofe ftep is effential to the draft of the 
 veffel, and can only be maintained by a fort of chime which they 
 chant on the occafion : this chime, or cry, is a kind of brief fong ; 
 but the words, as far as I could learn, have no more meaning an- 
 nexed to them, than the bawling tones employed by our feamen, as 
 notices to pull at the fame moment: they appeared, however, to give 
 the following diftind:, articulate founds, not altogether unlike fome 
 of thofe which we might hear on the Thames, or the Severn. — Hoy- 
 alla-hoya ;• — which word, for it is delivered as one, was regularly 
 fucceedcd by the following ones — hoya, hoya, hoy — waudi-hoya. 
 Thefe words are fung in a regular tune j and fo univerfal is this 
 cuftom among the clafs of labouring Chinefe, that they cannot per- 
 form the moft ordinary work, where numbers are employed together, 
 without the aid of this vocal accompaniment j which I was difpofed 
 to think, had fome agreeable notes in it. 
 
 4 It
 
 ( «I ) 
 
 It fcemccl, indcctl, to be nccclTary that thcfl- poor men fliould liavc jyq-i. 
 confblation to l\ipj)ort, or lome aid to allifl:, thcni in tlic prodigious ^^^j^lJ^^T'^ 
 labour of dragging thcfe large junks, both night and day, which is 
 frequently increaled by muddy banks, and marfliy fliores, where J 
 have fomctimes feen them wading up to their very fhoulders, and 
 dragging one another, as well as the vcHll, atrtr tlicm. 
 
 This moniing, at feven o'clock, we received our idual iupjyly of T.ici'iriy i j. 
 provifions, which we were obliged to drefs ourfelvcs, as the Chinefe 
 are fo very dirty in their mode ot cookery, that it was impoirible for 
 the inhabitants of a country where cleanlincfs is i'o prevailing a cir- 
 cumftance of the kitchen, unlefs impelled by Ibverc hunger, to fubmit 
 to it. Their manner of dreflmg meat is by cutting it in very fmall 
 pieces, which they fry in oil, v/ith roots and herbs. They havi?: 
 plenty of foy and vinegar, \\hich they add by way of faucc. 
 
 The diet which the common people provide for themfelves is al- 
 ways the fame, and they take their meals, with the utmoll regularity» 
 every four hours : it confilis of boiled rice, and fometimes ot millet, 
 with a few vegetables or turnips chopped fmall, and tried amongft 
 oil : this they put into a bafon, and, when they mean to make a 
 regale, they pour fome foy upon it. 
 
 Their manner of boiling rice is the only circumflance of cleanlinefs 
 which I have obferved among them : they take a certain quantity of 
 rice, and walli it well in cold water ; alter which it is drained oR' 
 through a fieve : they then put the rice into boiling water, and when 
 it is quite foft, they take it out with a ladle, and drain it again through 
 a fieve : they tlicn put it into a clean velfel, and cover it up ; there it 
 remains till it is blanched as white as fnow, and as dry as a crull, 
 when the rice becomes a mofl: excellent fubftitute for bread. 
 
 The table on which they eat rlieir meals is no more than a foot from 
 the ground, and they fit around it on the floor : the velfel of rice is 
 
 M then
 
 i s^ ) 
 
 then placed near it, with which each perfon fills a fmall bafon j he 
 then with a couple of chop-fticks picks up his fried vegetables, which 
 he eats with his rice; and this food they glut down in a mofl vora- 
 cious manner. Except on days of facrifice or rejoicing, the common 
 people of China feldom have a better diet. Their drink, which has 
 already been defcribed, is an infufion of tea-leaves.. 
 
 We this day paiTed feveral very populous villages, though, as far as 
 our experience qualified us to determine, there is no fuch thing asa 
 village which is not populous ; and perhaps, after all, among the 
 wonders of this country the population is the greateft. 
 
 The fliores of the river was this day lined with fuch crowds of 
 people to fee us pafs, as to baffle all defcription > and the number of 
 junks which we paffed in this day's voyage, I folemnly believe, 
 without the leafi: exaggeration, amounted to at lead four thoufand: and 
 if I calculate the people we faw in the different villages at twenty times 
 that number, the account, I believe, is very much below the reality. 
 At each of thefe places the Ambaflador was faluted in the manner 
 which has been already defcribed. 
 
 Although it is not a very delicate pid:ure to prefent to the attention 
 of my readers, yet, as I profefs to give a relation of every thing which 
 I faw, I fliall not omit to mention, that, this evening, two of the Chi- 
 ncfe belonging to our junk ftripped themfelves naked, and, picking 
 off the vermine, which were found in great plent}^ on their clothes, 
 proceeded to eat them with as much eagernefs and apparent fatisfac- 
 tion, as if they were a gratifying and delicate food. 
 
 Wednef- The weather Vv-as extremely hot and fultry, and the mufquitos fo 
 
 •i-V '4- troublcfome during the night, as to prove a very painful interruption 
 to our rcpofe. 
 
 .2 We
 
 ( 8J ) 
 We continued to pafs very cxtcnfivc fields of n^illct and rice, and 
 the country, as we proceeded, maintained its character for fertility, 
 cultivation, and abundance; though in fcvcral parts it affumcd a more 
 varied and regular appearance than we had yet fecn. 
 
 In the forenoon we paffcd a large town, whofe name is Cho-tung-poa. 
 It is pleafantly fituated on the banks of the river, and is a place of 
 confidcrablc extent. The houfes are of brick, and in general do not 
 afccnd beyond one flory : they were here remarkable for the wall*, 
 which were cre<5ted in the front of them, over which a great number 
 of ladies were fcen taking a view of the junks as they pafled before the 
 town; while the fpcdlators, whom curiofity had led to the banks of 
 the river, were, as qfual, in fuch numbers as to renew our afloniHi- 
 mcnt. 
 
 We now came to a fork of the river, and over the lateral branch 
 of it there were two bridges of two arches, built of ftone on a pleafing 
 form, and conflrufted with the appearance of no common architec- 
 tural knowledge. At a fmall diflance from them were the ruins of 
 another bridge of one arch : it had been built of hewn ftone, and the 
 part which rernaincd bore the appearance of a regular defign and 
 European raafonry. At a fmall dilhmce from this ruin, and on a 
 gentle eminence, was the feat or villa of the mandarin. It is a new 
 flone building of two flories, in a pleafing ftile of architcclure, with 
 a flight of fteps rifing to the door. The approach to it was throuoh a 
 neat gateway, which was not quite finiflied ; the mafons were then 
 employed in completing it; and I was rather furprifcd on obferving 
 that their fcaffolding was eredted on the fame principle, and their 
 work condui!:led very much in the fame manner, as is cmpIo)'cd and 
 pracftifed by the builders of our own country. 
 
 The junks were towed during the grcatefl p.irt of this day ; and at 
 fix o'c'Iock in the evening they came to an anchor near the Ihore. 
 
 M 2 la
 
 ( &+ ) 
 
 ^ ^J^2L^ iii "i ll^ort time after the fleet came to its moorings, the grand man- 
 Auguft. darin of Tyen-fing, efcorted by a numerous train of attendants, came 
 to pay a vifit to the Britiih Ambaflador. 
 
 The proccfTion commenced with an advanced troop of men, who 
 were employed in Ihouting aloud as they came on, in order to notify 
 the approach of the mandarin, that the way might be cleared from 
 paflengers, and any accidental obftacle removed which might impede 
 his progrefs. This party was followed at fome diftance by two men 
 carrying large umbrellas of red filk, with a broad pendent curtain of 
 the fame materials : they, are ufed to flicker the palankin from the 
 burning rays of the fun. A large band of ftandard-bearers then fuc- 
 ceed } the foot foldiers follow ; the palankin next appears which bears 
 the mandarin, and a large efcort of cavalry clofes the proceffion. 
 
 Such is the manner in which perfons of diftin(5lion travel in China ; 
 and their particular rank and quality is marked by the number of their 
 attendants. 
 
 The mandarin of Tyen-fing remained with Lord Macartney about 
 an hour j and, on his return, the proceffion was illuminated by a great 
 number of people bearing lamps and torches, which produced a very 
 fplendid appearance. 
 
 Thiirfdiyi^. The heat ftill continued to be extreme: the country varies not in. 
 the fertility of its appearance, and the large fields of corn which we 
 pafTed to-day, appeared to be as fine, both as to crop and cultivation, . 
 as thofe which are the boaft of England, We alfo paffed a large 
 plantation of tea, and a very great number of boxes ranged in order, . 
 for the purpofe of packing the tea, and fending it to Canton. 
 
 In this day's voyage, the banks of the river appeared in fuch , 
 various clothing of art and nature, as to diftradl the attention; and the 
 alternate view of extenfive meadows, luxuriant fields, and the moft 
 :> beautiful
 
 ( fi5 ) 
 
 beautiful gardens, did not fuffcr the gratification of the eye, or the , 'J^'^^' 
 
 mind; to be for a moment fufpended. AugufL 
 
 In the evening I went on fliorc, and walked along the banks of 
 the river for a couple of miles ; and, on a nearer examination of the 
 corn-fields, I found that the grain, which was now almoft ripe, was 
 of a fuperior quality, and the hufbandry equal to that of the Engliftx 
 farmer. 
 
 C HAP.
 
 ( 86 ) 
 
 CHAP. VIL 
 
 Arrive at the city of Tong-tchrdo, where the voyage ends. The em- 
 
 hajjy ciifembarks ; ceremonies on the occajion. The place appointed 
 
 for the reception of the prefents and baggage defer ibed. Defcription 
 
 ■ of the building appropriated for the refidence of the Ambajfador and 
 
 his fuite. The domefic worjhip of the Chincfe. The entertainment 
 
 of the emba/fy. An account of the city of Tong-tchew. Circum~ 
 
 fiances relative to its civil government. The prefcjtts for the Emperor 
 
 examined. The artillery exercifed. Vifit from the mandarin. The 
 
 death of Mr. EadeSy and his funeral. The Ambajfador receives notice 
 
 of the time appointed for his departure for Pekin. 
 
 '793- 
 
 -l\s we proceeded on our voyage, the villages became more frequent, 
 Fridfy ib.. and the people more numerous. We continued to receive our ufual 
 fupply of meat, fowls, vegetables, and fruit ; and about five o'clock 
 in the afternoon of this day, we arrived at the city of Tong-tchew, 
 which is fituated at the diftance of twelve miles from Pekin, and 
 where our voyage up this fine river found its termination. It may 
 appear to be a continual repetition of the fame fubjeft, but the circum- 
 ftance appeared to be fo extraordinary, that I cannot fail to repeat it, 
 by obferving that, at this place, the people who covered the banks of 
 the river far exceeded in number any thing that we had yet feen. 
 
 Soon after the arrival of the fleet at this place. Lord Macartney and 
 Sir George Staunton, accompanied by the conducting mandarin, Van 
 Tadge-In, went on fliore to infpedt the place allotted for the landing the 
 prefents and baggage, which the Chinefe had pxevioufly ere<5ted for 
 thi^t purpofe. It contained about the fpace of <in acre, fenced in witl^ 
 matting, and fujnillied with long llicds made of uprights of wood and 
 
 matting.
 
 ( 87 ) 
 matting, with a roof of the latter, in order to prevent the packages '793' 
 from being injured by the rain or dew The ground was entirely AuguU. 
 covered with mats, and the place well guarded on all fides by petty 
 mandarins and foldiers. 
 
 The grand mandarin of the place fcnt to inform the AmbafTador 
 that a public breakfafl: would be prepared at the temple allotted for 
 the rcfidence of the cmbalTy, during its fi:ay at Toiig-tchew, on the 
 following morning at (even o'clock ; to which Lord Macartney and 
 his whole fuite, including mechanics, foldiers, and fervants, were 
 invited. Notice of this general meffage was confequently given to 
 each junk, and orders were at the fame time ilTued to prepare for dif- 
 embarkation. 
 
 At fix o'clock this morning two palanquins were fent for Lord Ma-- Saturday 17, 
 cartney and Sir George Staunton, who, in about an hour after their 
 arrival, left the junks, and were carried to the temple already men- 
 tioned, as the place appointed for their refidence, efcorted by a party 
 of Chinefe foldiers and an immenfe concourfe of fpedlators. 
 
 The breakfaft confifted of a profufion of flews and made diflies, 
 meat of all kinds, tea, wines, boiled eggs, with a great variety of 
 fruits, and elegant confectionary. 
 
 A certain number of coolies, in fmall boats, were ordered to each 
 junk, to remove all the articles belonging to the embafTy to the place 
 already mentioned as prepared for their reception. During the greater 
 part of the forenoon I was employed in taking care that the proportion 
 of baggage committed to my cho-rge, was conveyed in fatcty to the 
 llieds. 
 
 At the gate of this inclofure there were two Chinefe officers, who 
 inrpc(!:(;ed all cafes and packages which were brought from the junks : 
 they firlt took their dmienfions, of which they appeared to take a 
 
 written
 
 ( «8 ) 
 
 written account, and then pafted, as it feemed to me, a counterpart of 
 their minute on every feparate article j nor was a fingle box, package, 
 or parcel, fuffered to pafs, till it had undergone this previous cere- 
 mony ; which was fpecially ordered, as I was informed, to afcertatn 
 to the Emperor the (Quantity of prefents and baggage in poiTelTion of 
 the embally. 
 
 "Every exertion was made boi:h by us and the natives to complete the 
 landing of our cargoes from the junks ; and fo much expedition was 
 ufed on the occafion, that the whole of the private baggage, and a 
 great part of the prefents, were fafely brought on Ihore, and placed 
 in the depot, in the courfe of this day. 
 
 The temple, which had been appropriated by the Chinefe govern- 
 ment for the refidence of the Britifli AmbafTador to Tong-tchew, is 
 iituated about three quarters of a mile from the river, and about one 
 mile from the city, and flands on a rifing ground ; the building has a 
 neat appearance, but is fo very low, as to have no claim to that dif- 
 ^indlion, which it might be expected to pollefs, when we confider the 
 purpofes to which it was applied, — It rifes no higher in any part of it 
 than one ftory. 
 
 The entrance to this building is a common fquare gateway, that 
 opms into a neat, clean court, which was occupied by the foldiers 
 belonging to the embaffy, as a kind of barracks : another court beyond 
 it, and to which there was an afcent of tliree fteps, contained feveral 
 fmall buildings, occupied by the Chinefe who belonged to the houfe ; 
 immediately adjoining to it, Lord Macartney's fervants occupied a 
 fimilar iituation. Oppofite to the fervants quarter was a fmall fquare 
 building, which is ufed as a place of worlhip, and contains only one 
 room of common dimenfions : in the middle of this chamber there 
 was an altar, with three porcclanc figures as lar.::;e as life placed upon 
 it; there were alfo candlefticks on each fide of it, which are lighted 
 jregularly every morning and evening, and at inch other times as per- 
 
 fons
 
 ( h ) 
 
 fons come tlicrc to pay their devotions. Before thcfe images there is a ly^v 
 Imall pot of dull, in which are infcrtcd a numhcr of long matches, Auguft. 
 that arc alfo Hghted during the times of \vor(hip. When tlic period of 
 devotion is paft, the candles are extinguifhcd, and the flame of the 
 matches blown out, but the matches are left too moulder away. When 
 this ceremony is over, an attendant on the altar takes a foft mallet, with 
 which he ftrikes a bell, that is fufpended to it, three times : the per- 
 fons prefent then kneel before the images, and bow down their heads 
 three times to the ground, with their hands clafped in each other, 
 which they extend over their heads as they rife : a low bow is then 
 feen to conclude the ceremony of the daily worfliip of the Chinefe, 
 which is termed by them, chiu-chin-jolh, or worllup of God. 
 
 Such is the domeflic mode of worfliip that prevails throughout the 
 whole empire of China, as every inhabitant of it, from the meanefl 
 peafant to the Emperor himfclf, has an altar and a deity : the moft 
 wretched habitation is equally furnifhcd in regard to its idols, though, 
 as may be luppofed, in proportionate degrees of form and figure, with 
 the Imperial palace. Nor arc thofe who arc confined to the occupa:- 
 tions of the water without them ; every kind of veflel that navigates 
 the fea, or the river, being provided with its deity and its altar. 
 
 The court adjoining to this domeflic chapel is occupied by the 
 Chinefe, and employed as a kitchen : from thence there is a circular 
 entrance to that part of the building which was particularly ailigned 
 to the AmbafTador and his fuite. 
 
 It furrounds a very handfome and fpacious court, which was ufcd 
 as a dining apartment on tlic occafion : on one lide of it there was an 
 elegant platform, raifed on two fleps, with a beautiful roof, fupported 
 by four gilt pillars; and an awning was ftretched over the whole court 
 to proted it from tlie heat of the fun. This place was furnifhed alfo 
 with beautiful lamps, regularly difperfcd all around it : they confill: of 
 frames made of box-wood, lined w^ith tranfparent filk and flowered 
 
 N gauae
 
 ( 90 > 
 
 gauze of various colours, which, when the lamps are lighted, add 
 very much to the pleafing effecft of the ilhimination. The two prin>. 
 cipal (ides of the court were occupied by the gentlemen of the fuite, 
 who flept in two equal diviiions in thefe feparatc apartments. Lord 
 Macartney and Sir George Staunton were each accommodated with 
 a diflind; and feparate wing of the building. 
 
 At two o'clock dinner was ferved up for the AmbafTador and his 
 company: it confifted of about one hundred various dilhes, dreffed 
 according to the cookery of the country ; they confifted principally of 
 ftews, and were ferved in fmall bafons: there were neither table-cloths 
 or knives and forks ; and the only method thefe people have of corv 
 veying their meat to the mouth is by fmall pointed lengths of w'ood, 
 or ivory, in the form of pencils. It is abfolutely neceflary, therefore, 
 that their folid food Ihould be cut in fmall pieces. 
 
 During the time of dinner, a great number of Chinefe, who belong- 
 ed, as I fuppofe, to the mandarin, whofe office it was to fuperintend 
 the arrangements for accommodation of the erabafly, crowded round 
 the table ; when they not only expreffed their furprife by peculiar aCf 
 tions and geftures, but frequently burft into lliouts of laughter.. 
 
 Sunday i8. In order to give all poffible dignity and importance to the embafly, 
 a guard of Britifla foldiers was ordered to attend on the Ambaffador's 
 apartments ; but as they were removed from public view, thefe 
 centinels were placed at the outer gate, and the entrance of the inner 
 court, that they might attract the notice of the Chinefe, and elevate 
 the confequence of the diplomatic miflion, in the general opinion of 
 the people of the country; a circumftance on which the fuccefs of it, 
 was fuppofcd, in a great meafure, to depend. 
 
 In the feveral apartments of the building appropriated to the refi- 
 dence and ufes of the embafly, Chinefe fervants were diftributed, tp 
 fupply thofe who were difpofed to call for drink, with the beverage 
 
 of
 
 ( 9^ ) 
 
 eof the country : fuch as kic tigau, hot tea ; Hang tigau, cold tea ; with ^J^^' 
 Jiang fvvcc, cold water; kie fwec, hot water; pyng fwec, ice water; Au^uft. 
 and any of thefe liquors were ready to be brought whenever they 
 ihould be demanded, from an early hour of the day, till night. 
 
 This morning I took the opportunity to viflt the city of Tong-tchcW, 
 •with its fuburbs ; and with no fmali fatigue, and forac trouble, I tra- 
 verfed the greateft part of it. 
 
 It appears to be built in a fquare form, and is defended by a very 
 ftrong lofty wall, with a deep ditch on the outfide of it in the moll 
 acceilible parts : the wall makes a circuit of about fix miles, is thirty 
 feet high, and fix broad : it has three gates, which are well fortified; 
 each being defended by ramparts mounted with cannon : there is 
 alfo a ftrong guard within them towards the city, in a ftate of 
 regular duty. Thefe ^ates arc always Hiut at ten at night, and opened 
 at four in the morning; the keys of which arc always lodged with 
 the mandarin of the city at night, and returned to the oflicer of the 
 guard in the morning; on which occafion a report is made of what- 
 ever may have occurred, and fuch orders arc ilTued as circumflances 
 may require. 
 
 The houfes of this city are like the greater part of thofe I have fccn 
 in China, and rife no higher than one ftory : they differ, however, in 
 fomc degree, from the common habitations of other places which 
 w:e have pafTed, that they are here almoft univerfally built of wood ; as 
 there is very rarely a flone or brick houfe to be fecn, but fuch as are 
 inhabited by the mandarins of the place. 
 
 The exterior appearance of tTic houfes is very plcafing from the 
 prettinefs of their decorations ; but they arc mod wretchedly furniilied 
 xvithin, if that term can be applied where there is very little or no fur- 
 aiture at all. They have only one apartment behind their ihops, 
 V."hich ie without floor or pavement, and muft; fervc them for every 
 
 N 2 domeflic
 
 ( 92 ) 
 
 i;93- domeftic ufe and employment. Before the doors of the fliops, wooderj 
 ~X^^^ pillars are erected, from which an awning is fufpehded during the day, 
 to protecft not only the paffengers, but the lliopkeepers thcmfelves, 
 from the rays of the fun : fome of thefe pillars are conliderably higher 
 than the houfes before which they fland ; and are not only gilt and 
 painted, but decorated with flreamers, which ferve as figns to denote 
 the commodities of the particular fliops : the tops of them alfo are 
 frequently mounted with a wooden figure, which ferves as a direction 
 to the fpot. 
 
 As to variety, either in the form and dimenfions of the houfes or 
 fhops, there is none ; for an almoft univerfal famenefs prevails irx 
 the flreets of this extenfive city : they differ, indeed, in breadth ; 
 and the inhabitants of thofe which are narrow, fpread matting from 
 the tops of the houfes quite acrofs the flreet, which is a very agreeable 
 circumflance in the hot feafons : there is alfo, for the cortvenience of 
 foot paffengers, a pavement of four feet in breadth on each fide of 
 every flreet. 
 
 Glafs is not any where ufed in China for windows, and the com- 
 mon fubflitute for it is a thin glazed paper, which is pafted on the 
 infide of a wooden lattice : filk, however, is employed for this pur- 
 pofe in the houfes of the higher clafles of the people. 
 
 Tong-tchew is a place of great trade, as appears from the vaft 
 number of junks which we faw lying in the river before it ; and the 
 affonifliing number of its inhabitants ; which is very generally be- 
 lieved, as I was informed by fome of the refident merchants, to 
 amount, at leafl, to half a million of people. 
 
 During the fummcr and the autumn months the heat here is very 
 fiilt'ry and opprcfTive : the winter, however, brings inclemency along 
 with it, as ice of thirty inches thick is preferved here, in fiibtcrranean 
 
 ^ caverns.
 
 ( 93 ) 
 
 caverns, till the fiimmer. It is confuicred as an article of great luxury i^of- 
 among the people, who mix it with their drink, to give it a rcfrelhing AuaiiftT 
 coolnefs in the hot fealbns of the year. 
 
 In the courfe of my excurfions through the city, I endeavoured to 
 make myfelf acquainted with the nature of its municipal government. 
 Of this important fubjcd: it is not to be fuppofed that I could learn much : 
 1 was, however, in one way or other, made to undcrfland, that all civil 
 caufes are determined by a certain number of inferior mandarins ex- 
 prefsly appointed to the judicial office; but that their decillons arc lubjed; 
 to the review of the chief mandarin of the place or diftridl, who may 
 confirm or reverie them at plcafure : this officer, and his decrees, are 
 alfo fubjedl to the Viceroy of the province, from whom, in all civil 
 caufes, there is no appeal. 
 
 In capital offences, the final determination refts with the Emperor 
 alone; though it is very rare indeed, that a criminal is fentcnccd to 
 die: but if fuch a circumftance Ihould happen in the moft remote 
 corner of the empire, application mult be made to the Emperor him- 
 fclf to annul, to mitigate, or enforce the fentence. Executions, how- 
 ever, are very feldom feen in China. I was very particular and 
 curious in my inquiries on this fubjedt, wherever I had an opportunity 
 to make them, and not one perfcn that was queftioned on the occa- 
 fion, and fome of them were, at leaft, feventy years of age, had ever 
 feen or known of a capital execution. Nor are the Icfler crimes io 
 frequent as might be expe»iled in fuch a populous and commercial coun- 
 try j as the more obno>ious clalTes of them, at Icaft, are kept down 
 by the vigour of the police, and the promptitude ot punifhment, 
 which follows convidtion without the delay of a moment : — a regu- 
 lation which might, in many cafes, be adopted with the beft effedts by 
 the boafted judicature of Great Britain. Nor fhall I heiitate to obferve, 
 that whatever may be the dcfeds or excellencies of the Chinele govern- 
 ment, of ^vhich I am not altogether qualified to judge, the people of 
 
 China
 
 ( 94 ) 
 
 China fecm to be happy and contented under It, and to enjoy as much 
 liberty as is confiflent with the befl arrangements of civilifed fociety. 
 
 The piilaces of the mandarins are the only pubhc buildings which 
 T. co^ld difcover, or was informed of, in this exteniive city : they are 
 built of brick, and appeared to be very fpacious ; but were more re- 
 markable for extent, than elegance or grandeur^ 
 
 I finiflied .this curious excurfion in the evening, when I was not 
 only very much fatigued by my walk, but very much harafled by the 
 curiofity of the people. I was fometimes furrounded by twenty or 
 thirty of them, who prefled fo much upon me, that I was frequently 
 under the neceflity of taking Ihelter in Ihops, till the crowd that per- 
 fecutcd me was difperfed ; and, in return for the protecftion afforded me, 
 I made Ibme purchafes of fans and tobacco-pipes, which were formed 
 \vith purious neatnefs and ingenuity. 
 
 •Monday 19. This momlng Mr. Barrow, the comptroller, received the whole of 
 the remaining part of the prefents, which were lodged in the depot 
 already defcrihed, Lieut. Parifh of the royal artillery, with a party 
 of his men, attended there to .examine the ordnance Itores : they alio 
 uucafed the guns, and got them mounted on their carriages: they 
 -confifted of fix new brafs field pieces, two mortars, and one wall piece, 
 with complete artillery apparatus. On the report of the flate of the 
 ordnance, &c. being made to the AmbalTador, he was pleafed to come 
 to the fheds, attended by Col. Benfon, the officers, and other gentle- 
 tften, .to fee the guns exercifed ; when feveral rounds were fired with 
 great quicknefs, adlivity, and exadnefs. His Excellency remained 
 there about two hours, when he returned to his relidence, where the 
 gentlemen of the en"ibalTy dined in the fame manner as on tlie pie- 
 ceding day. 
 
 In the evening the Ambaflador received a vifit from the attendant 
 /uaiidarin, accompanied by the chief mandarin of the city. The band 
 
 was
 
 -» 
 
 ( 95 ) 
 
 was ordered on the occafion to play on the platform, and the Chi- '?'» 
 nefc vifitors appeared to be infinitely dchghted with tlie European Anguul 
 mufic. 
 
 This evening, at eight o'clock Mr. Hariy Eades, one of the me- 
 chanics attached to the embafly, died in confequcnce of a violent flux, 
 with which he had been for fome time afflidled. Mr. Plumb, the 
 interpreter, was requcfted to order a coffin on the occafion; and, as 
 thefc (ad receptacles are always ready made in China, our departed 
 companion was foon placed, with all poflible decency, in a fituation to 
 receive the laft a<5t of rel'pedl which we can pay to each other. 
 
 The coffins of this country arc all of the fame fize, and bear a 
 ftronger refemblance to a Hat-bottomed boat, than to thofe of Europe : 
 they are very flrong and heavy, and the lid is not nailed down, as 
 with us, but faflicncd with a cord. 
 
 About eleven o'clock there began a moft tremendous florm of 
 thunder, lightning, and rain, which cominued without any inter- 
 miffion till four o'clock. 
 
 This morning the Ambaflador gave orders for the funeral of Mr. Tucfday 20. 
 Harry Eades, which, in order to give the Chinefe a favourable im- 
 prefTion even of our funeral folemnities, was direcfted to be performed 
 with military honours. 
 
 All the fervants, mechanics, and muficians, attached to the em- 
 haffy, were ordered to be in readinefs on the occafion : Col. Bcnfon 
 alfo iflued orders to the troops to appear with their fide arms, except 
 a ferjcant and fix privates of the royal artillery, who were ordered to 
 be armed and accoutered for firing over the grave. As no clergyman 
 accompanied the cmbafiTy, I was appoirited to read the funeral Itrvicc 
 of the Church of England on this melancholy occafion. 
 
 At
 
 1793- 
 
 ( 96 ) 
 
 At nine o'clock the proceffion began in the following orJcri 
 
 Detatchment of the royal artillery, with arms reverfed. 
 
 The coffin fupportcd on men's flioulders. 
 
 Two fifes playing a funeral dirge. 
 
 The perfon appointed to officiate at the grave. 
 
 The mechanics, fervants, &c. two and two. 
 
 The troops then followed, and clofed the whole. 
 
 This proceffion was alfo accompanied bj feveral of the gentlemen 
 •belonging to tlie embaiTy. 
 
 Thus we proceeded, with all due folcmnity, to the buiy ing-ground , 
 which is fituated about a quarter of a mile from the Ambaifador's 
 refidence ; and where permiiiion had been granted for the interment 
 of our countryman, with a liberality that would not have been prac- 
 tifed in fome of the countries of enlightened Europe. Such a cere- 
 monial, as may well be imagined, had excited the curiofity of the 
 city, and we w^ere attended by a concourfe of fpedators that the mofl 
 jnterefting, and fplendid fpedacles would not alTemble in the cities of 
 jEurope. 
 
 On our arrival at the place of interment, the foldiery formed a circle 
 yound the grave, with the firing party ftanding on the fide of it. The 
 coffin beino- placed on two planks of wood, the funeral fervice was 
 then read, when the body was committed with the ufual ceremonies 
 to the earth, and the party difcharged three vollies over the grave, — 
 which, according to a cufi:om of the country that we cannot recon- 
 cile with the general good fenfe of the people, had no greater depth 
 than was jufi: neceffary to cover the coffin. 
 
 In this burying-ground there was a great number of marble and ftone 
 monuments with infcriptions on them. Some of thefe memorials were 
 eilt, and enriched with various devices of no ordinary fculpture : this 
 
 funeral
 
 ( 97 ) 
 funeral fpot is very extcnfive, but without any enclofurc. There arc, 179?- 
 indeed, no public places of burial, but near large towns and cities ; as, Auguft. 
 in the country, everyone is buried on the premiC's where he had lived. 
 
 When the grave was clofed, and this laft adl of duty performed to 
 the dead, the procefTion returned in the fame order that has been al- 
 ready defcribed. 
 
 The AmbafTador was vifitcd by feveral mandarins, a mark of re- 
 Ipedt which we were difpofed to conlider as a favourable prognofti- 
 cation of fuccefs in the great objects of this extraordinary miflion. 
 His Excellency alfo received notice that the following day was ap- 
 pointed for the departure of the cmbairy to Pekin, and that every 
 neceffary preparation was made for that pinpofe. 
 
 It is a curious circumflance that the place of refidencc appointed for 
 the embalTy, proved, after all, to be the houfe of a timber merchant, 
 whofe yard was adjoining to it : but the communication between them 
 was, on this occaiion, clofed up by a temporary fixture of deals that 
 were nailed acrofs it. On making inquiry concerning the truth of 
 what had been fuggefled to me, a Chinefe foldicr pointed to the 
 timber yard; and, at the fame time, made me underftand, that the 
 owner of the place fold that kind of wood which was employed in the 
 building of junks. 
 
 O CHAP.
 
 ( 98 ) 
 
 CHAP. VIIL 
 
 Leave the city of Tong-tchew. 'The road to Pekin defcribed. Arrive 
 at a large tozvn called Kiyeng-Foo. Halt there to breakfaji. Pro- 
 digious crowds of people to fee the embajfy pafs. Arrive at Pekin. 
 Some account oj that city. Ciifoms and manners oj the Chinefe, 
 Leave Pekin. Arrive at the imperial palace named Teuman-man* 
 yeiimen. 
 
 ^' ^f"' t This morning at two o'clock the general was beat through all the 
 ^,"^"'\'- courts of the houfe, as a fignal for the fuite to prepare for their de- 
 <*2yai- parture. After an hafly breakfaft, the whole of the embafly was 
 read)'^ to proceed on their journey. The foldiers were firft marched 
 off to covered waggons provided for them ; the fervants then followed, 
 and were received into iimilar machines ; the gentlemen of the fuite 
 next proceeded in light carts drawn by a fingle horfe. Lord Ma- 
 cartney, Sir George Staunton, and Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, were 
 conveyed in palanquins, which were each of them borne by four 
 men. 
 
 The vehicles which carried the foldiers and fervants were common, 
 hired carts, drawn by four horfes, unequally coupled together, and co- 
 vered with ftraw matting. The harncfs, if it may defcrve that name^. 
 was made of rope and cordage. The fingle-horfe carts were covered 
 with blue nankeen, and had doors of lattice work lined with the fame 
 fluff: the drivers walked by the fide of them. 
 
 At four o'clock this proceffion was in motion, which confilled of 
 fixty carts for the foldiers and feivants, and twenty for the convey- 
 ance of the gentlemen belonging to the fuite, cxclufive of carts for the 
 
 I private
 
 ( 99 ) - 
 private baggage, and the coolies, or porters, employed to carr)' the «79V 
 prcfcnts and iicavy baggage, which were conveyed on their flioulders; Auguft, 
 four hundred of whom were employed on this extraordinary oc- 
 casion. 
 
 About five o'clock we had quitted the city of Tong-tchew, and 
 entered immediately into a fine level country of the mod luxuriant 
 fertility, which, as far as the eye could reach, appeared to be one 
 immenfc garden. 
 
 The road along which we travelled, is not only broad but elegant; 
 and is a proof of the labour employed by the Chinefe government to 
 facilitate the comniunications between the capital, and the principal 
 parts of the kingdom. The middle of this road confifVs of a pave- 
 ment of broad flag ftones about twenty feet wide, and on each fide of 
 it there is fufficient fpace to admit of fix carriages to run abreafl. The 
 lateral parts are laid with gravel ftones, and kept in continual repair 
 by troops of labourers, who arc ftationcd on different parts of the road 
 for thatpurpofe. 
 
 At (iivcn o'clock the cavalcade flopped at a large tov\n, whofe name 
 is Kiyeng-Foo. To call it populous, would be to employ a fuper- 
 fluous expreflion, that is equally appropriate to the whole kingdom, as 
 every village, town, and city ; nay, every river, and all the banks of 
 it, teems with people. In the country through which we have paffed 
 the population is immenfe and univerfal : every mile brought us to a 
 village, whofe inhabitants would have crowded our largefl towns ; 
 and the number of villas fcattered over the country, on each fide of 
 the road, while they added to its beauty, were proofs of its wealth. 
 Thofe which we approached near enough to examine as we paffed, 
 were built of wood, and the fronts of many of them were painted 
 black, and enriched with gilded ornaments. 
 
 O z The
 
 '793- 
 > , 
 
 Augult. 
 
 ( ^00 ) 
 
 The day of our journey from Tong-tchew to Pekin was, I doubt 
 not, a matter of general notification, from the prodigious concourfe of 
 people who abfolutely covered the road ; and, notwithftanding the 
 utmofl: exertions of the mandarins to keep it clear, the preffure of the 
 crowd was fometimes fo great, that we were obliged to halt, for at 
 leaft a quarter of an hour, to prevent the accidents which might 
 otherwife have happened from the paffage of the carts amidil: this con- 
 tinual and innumerable throng. I cannot but add to the obftaclcs 
 which we received from the curiofity of the Chincfe people, fome 
 fmall degree of mortification at the kind of impreflion our appearance 
 feemed to make on them : for they no fooner obtained a fight of any 
 of us, than they univcrfally burft out into loud fhouts of laughter : and 
 1 mufl acknowledge, that we did not, at this time, wear the appear- 
 ance of people, who were arrived in this country, in order to obtain, 
 by every means of addrefs and prepoflellion, thole commercial pri- 
 vileges, and political diftmdions, which no other nation has had the 
 art or power to accomplilh. 
 
 At Kiyeng-Foo, which is about nine miles from Tong-tchew, the 
 whole embally of all ranks alighted from their refpeftive carriages : 
 here the inferior department found tables fpread for their refrefhment 
 in an open yard, but covered at the fame time, with great plenty of 
 cold meats, tea, fruits, &c. while the upper departments were ferved 
 with their regale in fome adjoining rooms of a very miferable appear- 
 ance. 
 
 Before the procelTion re-commenced its progrefs, the conducing 
 mandarin, with his ufual attention, ordered fome Joau, an 
 harfli four white wuie, to be offered to the attendants of the em- 
 baffy, to fortify their ftomachs, as a confiderable time might probably 
 elapfe before they would obtain any further refrefhment : we were 
 then fummoned to prepare for our departure, when a fcene of confu- 
 fion and dillurbance took place among ourfelves, which, whatever its 
 real effedts might have been, was not calculated at leail: to give any very 
 
 favourable
 
 ( ^oi ) 
 
 favourable imprcfllon of the manners and difpofition of the EngliHTi na- 
 tion. In lhort,froni the crowd of people affenihlcd to fee us, the neglect 
 of a previous arrangement, and diftribution, of the carts, together with 
 the inconfideratc cagernefs to fet off among ourfelvcs, it was a matter 
 of no inconfiderable difficulty for the mandarins to affign the people to 
 their refpedive vehicles. 
 
 At eight o'clock we took our leave of the town of Klycng-Foo, 
 which is a very confiderable and extenfive place : the ilrccts are broad 
 and unpavcd, and the houfes are built altogether of wood; at leafl in 
 the part which we traverfed there were none conftrudcd of any other 
 materials. The fliops made a very pleafing appearance, and fcemed 
 to be well furnillied with their refpedive commodities. 
 
 Of the country, which occupies the few miles from this place ta 
 Pekin, I have little to lay, as the crowds of people that furrounded us, 
 cither intercepted the view, or diflracfted our attention. 
 
 At noon we approached the fuburbs of the capital of China, and I 
 cannot but tcel lome degree of regret, that no alteration was made in 
 the ordinary travelling, and Ihabby appearance, of the embalfy, on fuch. 
 an important occafion. Whatever reafons there might be to prevent 
 that difplay, which it poffefled fuch ample provifions to make, I can- 
 not pretend to determine, but our cavalcade liad nothing like the ap- 
 pearance of an embafly, from the firfl nation in Europe, paffing 
 through the moft populous city in the world. 
 
 On entering the fuburbs, we pafTed beneath feveral very beautiful 
 .triumphal arches, elegantly painted, and enriched with various fanci- 
 ful ornaments : the upper part of them was fquare, with a kind of 
 pent-houfe, painted of a green colour, and heightened v.*ith varnilli : 
 from the infide of this roof was fufpended the model of an accom- 
 modation junk, admirably executed, and adorned with ribbons and 
 filkeii dreamers. 
 
 A Thefe
 
 ( 102 ) 
 
 I79V Thclc Cuburbs are very extenfivc; the houfcs are of wood, the greater 
 
 'Aii^ufl. P'irf of tlicm two ftorics in height, and their fronts painted in various 
 colours. The Ihops are not only commodious for their refpedive pur- 
 pofes, but have a certain grandeur in their appearance, that is en- 
 livened by the very pretty manner in which the articles of the refpec- 
 tive magazines are difplayed to the view of the public, either to 
 diftinguiih the trade, or to tempt the purchafer. 
 
 We proceeded gradually through fpacious flreets, which are paved 
 on either fide for the convenience of foot paflengers. The whole 
 way was lined with foldiers, and, indeed, without fuch a regulation, it 
 would have been impoffible for the carriages to have proceeded from 
 the crowd that attended us. 
 
 At two o'clock we arrived at the gates of the grand imperial city of 
 Pekin, with very little femblance of diplomatic figure or importance : 
 in fliort, for I cannot help repeating the fentiment, the appearance of 
 the Ambailluior's attendants, both with refped; to the fliabbinefs of their 
 drefs, and the vehicles which conveyed them, bore a greater refem- 
 blance to the removal of paupers to their parilhes in England, than the 
 expected dignity of the reprefentativc of a great and powerful monarch, 
 
 Pekin, or as the natives pronounce it, Pitchin, the metropolis of the 
 Chinefe empire, is fituated in one hundred and fixteen degrees of eall 
 longitude, and between forty and forty-one degrees of north latitude. 
 It is defended by a wall that inclofes a fquare fpace of about twelve 
 leagues in circumference : there is a grand gate in the center of 
 each angle, and as many lelTer ones at each corner, of the wall : they 
 are ftrongly arched, and fortified by a fquare building, or tower, of 
 feyen (lories, that fprings from the top of the gateway ; the (ides of 
 which are flrengthened by a parapet wall, with port-holes for ord- 
 nance. The windows of this building are of wood, and painted to 
 imitate the muzzle of a great gun, which is fo exadtly reprefented, 
 that the deception is not difcoverable but on a very near approach : 
 
 there
 
 ( ^03 ) 
 there arc nine of thcfc windows to each ftory on tiie front towards the 1793. 
 fiiburbs. Thefe gates arc double; the firfi: arcli of whicli is very XugufT 
 ftrongly built of a kind of frec-flonc, and not of marble, as has been 
 related by fome writers: the depth of it is about thirty feet, and in 
 the middle of the entrance is a very ftrong door of fix inches thick, 
 and fortified with iron bolts : this archway leads to a large fquarc 
 which contains the barracks for foldiers, confifting of mean wooden 
 houfes of two flories: on turning to the left, the fecond gateway is 
 feen, whofe arch is of the fame dimenfions and appearance as that 
 already tlefcribed, but without the tower. 
 
 At each of the principal gates there is a ftrong guard of foldiers, . 
 ■with feveral pieces of ordnance placed on each fide of the inner en- 
 trance. Thefe gates are opened at the dawn of day, and fhut at ten 
 o'clock at night, after which hour all communication with the city 
 from the fuburbs is impradiicable ; nor will they be opened on any pre- 
 tence, or occafion whatever, without a fpecial order from the principal 
 mandarin of the city. 
 
 The four lefiTer gates are defended by a fmall fort built on the walH 
 which is always guarded by a body of troops.. 
 
 The wall is about thirty feet high, and ten feet in breadth on the 
 top : the foundation is of flone, and appears about two feet from the 
 furface of the earth : the upper part is of brick, and gradually dimi- 
 niflics from the bottom to the top. Whether it is a folid ftrud:ure, 
 or only filled up with mortar or rubbilh, is a circumflance concerning 
 which I could not procure any authentic information. ' 
 
 This wall is defended by outworks and batteries, at (liort difiances- 
 from each other ; each of them being ftrengthened' by a fmall fort, 
 though none of the fortifications are garnlbncd but thofc which arc 
 attached to the gates ; and though there is a breafl-wcrk of three feet 
 high, with port-holts for cannon, which crowns the vyholc length of 
 
 the-
 
 ( ' O'V ) 
 
 1793- the wall, there is not a fingle gun mounted upon it. On the fide to- 
 Auguft. wards the city, it is, in feme places, quite perpendicular ; and in 
 others, forms a gentle declivity from the top to the ground. It is 
 cuilomary for bodies of foldiers to patrole the wall every night during 
 the time that the Emperor refides in the city> which is from Odlober 
 to April, when his Imperial Majelly ufually goes to a favourite pa- 
 lace in Tartary. From its perfecft Hate ot repair and general ap- 
 pearance, I Ihould rather fuppofe it to be of modern eredtion, and that 
 many years cannot have paffed away (ince it underwent a complete re- 
 pair, or was entirely rebuilt. 
 
 The diftance from the fouth gate, where we entered, to the eaftgate, 
 through which we palled out of the city, comprehends, on the moft mo- 
 derafc computation, a courfe of ten miles. The principal ftreets arc 
 equally fpacious and convenient, being one hundred and forty feet in 
 breadth, and of great length, but are only paved on each iide for foot 
 paffcngers. The police of the city, however, fpares no pains to keep 
 the middle part clean, and free from. all kind of nuifance; there being 
 large bodies of fcavengers continually employed for that pur- 
 pofe, who are affifled, as well as controlled, in their duty by fol- 
 diers Rationed in every diftridl, to enforce a due obfervance of 
 the laws that have been enadled, and the regulations which have 
 been framed, for preferving civil order among the people, and the mu- 
 nicipal ceconomics of this immenfe city. I obferved, as we pafled 
 along, a great number of men who were fprinkling the ftreets with 
 water, in order to lay the duft, which, in dry weather, would not 
 only be troublefome to paffengers, but very obnoxious alfo to the 
 Ihops ; whofe commodities muft be more or lefs injured, w^ere it not 
 for this beneficial and necelTary precaution. 
 
 Though the houfcs at Pekin are low and mean, when confi- 
 dered with refped: to fize and domeftic accommodation, their ex- 
 terior appearance is very handfomc and elegant, as the Chincfc 
 take a great pride in beautifying the fronts of their fliops and 
 
 dwellings ;
 
 ( ^05 ) 
 dwellings ; the upper part of the former is ornamented with a profufion ' 79V 
 of golden chara(f ters J and on the roofs of the latter are frequent gal- au^." 
 leries, rich in painting and other decoration ; where nunnerous parties 
 of women are fecn to amule thcmfclves according to the fafliion of the 
 country. The pillars, which are crccflcd before the doors of the (hops, 
 are gilded and painted, h.iving a flag fixed at the top, whofe charadlcrs 
 fpecify the name and hufincfs of the owner : tables arc alfo fprcad 
 with commodities, and lines attached to thefe pillars arc hung with 
 them. 
 
 I obferved a great number of butchers fliops whofe mode of cutting 
 up their meat refcmbles our own ; nor can the markc-ts of London 
 boaft a better fupply of fleflr than is to be found in Pekin. My curi- 
 ofity induced me to inquire the prices of their meat, and on my enter- 
 ing the fliop, 1 faw on a flail before it an earthen flove, with a grid- 
 iron placed upon it; and on my employing a variety of figns to obtain 
 the information I wanted, the butcher inflantly began to cut off fmall thin 
 llices of meat, about the fize of a crown piece, and broiled as faft as I 
 could eat them. I took about a dozen of thefe flices, which might alto- 
 gether weigh feven or eight ounces ; and when I paid him, which I did 
 by giving him a ftring of caxce, or fmall coin, he pulled off, as I fup- 
 pofc, the amount of his demand, which was one conderon, or ten 
 caxee, the only current money in the empire. I faw numbers of peo- 
 ple in other butchers fliops, as I paflcd along, regaling thcmfclves 
 with beef and mutton in the fame manner. 
 
 The houfes for Porcelain utcnfils and ornaments are peculiarly 
 attra<ftive, having a row of broad flielves, ranged above each other, on 
 the front of their fliops, on which they dil'pofe the mofl beautiful 
 fpecimens of their trade in a manner full of fancy and effed:. 
 
 Befides the variety of trades w^hich are flationary in this great city, 
 there are many thoufands of its inhabitants who cry their goods about, as 
 we fee in our own metropolis. They generally have a bamboo placed 
 
 P acrofs
 
 ( io6 ) 
 
 acrofs their fhoulders, and a bafket at each end of it, in which tlicy 
 carry filh, vegetables, eggs, and other fimilar articles. There are all» 
 great numbers of hawkers and pedlars, who go about with bags llrapped 
 on their flioulders like a knapfack, which contain various kinds of 
 fluff goods, the folds of which are expofed to view. In felling thefe 
 fluffs, they ufe the cubit meafure of fixteen inches. Barbers alfo are 
 feen running about the ftreets in great plenty, with every inllrument 
 known in this country for fliaving the head- and cleanfing the ears : 
 they carry with them for this purpofe a portable chair, a portable 
 ftove, and a fmall veffel of water, and whoever wifhes to undergo 
 either of thefe operations, fits down in the flreet, while the operator 
 performs his office, for which he receives a mace. To diflinguifli 
 their profeffion, they carry a pair of large fleel tweezers, which they 
 open with their fingers, and let them clofe -again with fome degree of 
 violence, which produces a Ihrill found that is heard at a confiderable 
 diftance; and fuch is their mode of feeking employment. That this 
 trade in China is a very profitable one may be pronounced, becaufe 
 every man muft be fliaved on a part of the head where it is impoffible, 
 to Ihave himfelf. 
 
 In feveral of the Greets I faw perfons engaged in felling off goods 
 by auction : the aud:ioneer flood on a platform furi'ounded with the 
 various articles he had to fell ; he delivered himfelf in a loud and 
 bawling manner, but the fmiling countenances of the audience, which 
 was the only language I could interpret, feemed to exprefs the enter- 
 tainment they received from his harangue. 
 
 At each end of the principal ftreets, for there are no fquares in 
 Pekin, there is a large gateway fancifully painted, with an handfome 
 roof coloured and varnilhed ; beneath which the name of the flreet is 
 written in golden charadlers : thefe arches terminate the nominal 
 flreet, or otherwife there would be flreets in fome parts of the city of 
 at leafl five miles in length, which are formed into feveral divifions 
 
 by
 
 ( ^o7 ) 
 
 by thcfc gateways. They arc very hand fomc, as well as central ob- 'i'j.i- 
 jedls, and arc railed in on each fide from the foot pavement. Auguft. 
 
 The narrow ftrccts arc cnclofcd at each end with fmall lattice gates, 
 which arc always Ihiit during the night; but all tlic confiderable ftrect.s 
 are guarded both night and day by foldiers, who wear I words by their 
 fides, and carry long whips in their hands, to clear the flrcets of any 
 inconvenient throng of people, and to chaftife fuch as are refra^^ory 
 in ordinary decorum or good behaviour. 
 
 Notwithftanding the vaft extent of this place, there is little or no 
 variety in their houfes, as I have before obferved, but in the colours 
 with which they are painted ; they are in reality nothing better than 
 temporary booths, ered;ed entirely for exterior fhew, and without any 
 view to ilrength or durability. It is very rare, indeed, to fee an houle 
 of more than one ftory, except fuch as belong to mandarins, and even 
 thofe are covered, as it were, by the walls which rife above every 
 houfe or building in Pckin, except a lofty pagoda, and the imperial 
 palace. 
 
 There are no carriages ftanding in the ftreets for the convenience of 
 the inhabitants, like our hackney coaches in London : the higher 
 claffes of people keep palanquins, and others oflcfs diftincflion have 
 covered carts drawn by an horfe or mule. 
 
 The opinion, that the Chinefc women are excluded from the view 
 of Grangers, has very little, if any, foundation, as among the im- 
 mcnfe crowd affembled to fee the cavalcade of the Englifli embaffy, 
 one fourth of the whole at leaft were women ; a far greater proportion 
 of that fex than is to be feen in any concourfe of people whom curio- 
 fity aflembles in our own country : and if the idea is founded in truth, 
 that curiofity is a peculiar charadleriftic of the female difpofition in 
 Europe, I fliall prefume to fay that, from the eagernefs which wc 
 obferved in the looks of the Chinefe women as we pafTed by them, 
 
 P a thai
 
 ( ^o8 } 
 »793- that the quality which has juft been mentioned is equally prevalent 
 Auguft. among the fair ones of Alia. 
 
 The women we faw on our paffage through Pekin pofrefTed, in; 
 general, great delicacy of feature, and fair (kins by nature, with which, 
 however, they are not content, and therefore wliiten them with cof- 
 metics ; they likevv;ife employ vermilion, but in a manner wholly dif- 
 ferent from the application of rouge among our European ladies, for 
 they mark the middle of their lips with it by a flripe of its deepeft- 
 colour, v/hich, without pretending to realon upon it, certainly 
 heightened the eifed: of their features. Their eyes are very- fmall, but 
 powerfully brilliant, and their arms extremely long and (lender.- 
 The only difference between the women of Pekin, and thofe we had> 
 already feen, as it appeared to us, was that the former weara fharp 
 peak of black velvet or filk, which is ornamented v/ith ftones, and 
 defcends from the forehead almofl between their eyes ; and that their 
 feet, free from the bandages which have already been mentionedj- 
 were fuffered to attain their natural growth. 
 
 When we had pafTed through the eaftern gate of the city, fome 
 confufion having arifen among the baggage carts, the whole proceffion 
 was obliged to halt. I, therefore, took the opportunity of eafing my 
 limbs, which were very much cramped by the inconvenience of the 
 machine, and perceiving a number of women in the crowd that fur- 
 rounded us, I ventured to approach them ; and, addrelTing them 
 with the Chinefe word Cbou-au, (or beautiful) they appeared to 
 be extremely diverted, and gathering round m.e, but with an air of 
 great modefly and politenefs, they examined the make and form of 
 my clothes, as well as the texture of the materials of which they were 
 compofed. When the carts began to move off, 1 took leave of thefe 
 obliging females by a gentle fnake of the hand, which they tendered 
 to me with the moft graceful affability ; nor did the men, who were 
 prefcnt, appear to be at all diffitisiied with my condud;, but, on the 
 contrary, cxprcffed, as far as I could judge, very great fatisfadion at 
 % this
 
 r 109 ) 
 
 t?riis public attention I paid to their ladies. It appears, therefore, that 1793. 
 in this city, the women are not diverted of a reafbnable portion of their ^"T^^jft" 
 liberty, and, confcquently, that the jealoufy attributed fo univerlally 
 to the Chinefe men, is not a predominant quahty, at leafl, in the 
 capital of the empire. 
 
 Among other objedls which wc faw in our Way, and did not fail to 
 attradl our riotice, we met a funeral proccflion, which proved to be a 
 very ftriking and folemn fpedaclc : the coffin is covered by a canopy 
 decorated with curtains of fatin, enriched with gold and flowers, and 
 hung with efcutcheons : it is placed on a large bier or platform, and 
 carried by at leafl: fifty or fixty men, who fupport it on their fliouldcrs 
 with long bamboos crofling each other, and march eight abreafl ^vith 
 flow and folemn ftep. Aband of mufic immediately follows, playing 
 a kind of dirge, which was not without a mixture of pleafing tunes : 
 the relations and friends of the deceafed perfon then followed, arrayed 
 in black and white dreiTcs. 
 
 Having paffed through the eaftern fuburbs of the city, we entered 
 into a rich and beautiful country, when a fliort flage of about four 
 miles brought us to one of the Emperor's palaces named Ycumen- 
 manyeumen, where we arrived about five o'clock in the afternoon, op- 
 prefled with fatigue from the extreme heat of the day, and the various 
 impediments which obllrudled our paffage, arifing from the immenfe 
 crowds of people that may be faid to have filled up the whole way 
 from Tong-tchew to this place, a journey of thirty miles. 
 
 In a fhort time after our arrival, we received a very fcanty and in- 
 different refrelTiment, when the whole fuite retired to llecp off tl>€- 
 fatigue of the day. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 no 
 
 i. 
 
 C H A P. IX. 
 
 Defcription of the palace of Teumen-nianyeumen. Df agreeable circum- 
 fances belojiging to it. Dfpiites with the natives 'mho guarded it. 
 Lord Macartney applies for a change of fttuation. The etnbajjy re- 
 moves to Pekin. Defcription of a pagoda. Arrive at the palace 
 appointed for the refdence of the embajfy. Defcription of it. The 
 arrangements made in it. Several mandarins vift the Ambafador. 
 
 1793- J. HE whole of this morning was employed in removing the bag- 
 Aiit^uft. g'3ge, &c. belonging to the embafly, from the outer gateway, where 
 huriday23. ^^ j^^j \)ttv\. depofited, to the different apartments appointed for the 
 gentlemen who compofed it. 
 
 The palace of Yeumen-manyeumen is in a very low fituation, about 
 a quarter of a mile from a village of the fiime name, and is a very 
 mean, inconvenient building of no more than one ftory. 
 
 The entrance to this palace, if it may be faid to deferve that name, 
 confifted of a very ordinary ftone gateway, guarded by foldiers, and 
 beyond it was a kind of parade, where the baggage was placed on its 
 being taken out of the caits that had brought it hither. In the center 
 of this parade there is a fmall lodge, where feveral mandarins of an 
 inferior order were in waiting; and through it is the paffage that leads 
 to the body of the palace, which being no more than four feet wide, 
 the carriages could make no nearer approach than to this lodge. 
 
 The pofition of this palace is not only low, but in a fwasmpy 
 hollow, and between two ponds of flngnant water, whofe putrid ex- 
 halations cannot add to the comfort of this unwholcfome fituation; 
 A «nd
 
 ( tM ) 
 
 and fomc apartments which were on the banks of one of thcfc ponds, ^ |p^' 
 were occupied as barracks by the Britifh foldicrs. To the weft of Auguft. 
 thefe buildings there is another gate, but conftrudled of wood, which 
 leads to another building, where I obferved a confidcrablc number of 
 Chincfe loldiers ; but, on my approach to take a view of them, they 
 fuddenly retired, and locked the door againfl: me. Indeed, the native 
 jealoufy of thefe people refpedting flrangers feemed to be awakened in 
 a very great degree, when they thought it neceffary to watch all our 
 a(n:ions with fuch a minute and fcrutinifing attention. 
 
 The palace, for I muft by way of diftindion continue to give it 
 that name, though unworthy the refidencc of the rep re fen tat ivc of a 
 great monarch, is divided into two fquare courts, with a range of 
 apartments all round them, which were not only deflitute of elegance, 
 but in a wretched ftate of repair : there is a paved footway around 
 them, with a wooden roof painted and varnifhed. Before the prin- 
 cipal doors of the building, and in the midft of a large court, there 
 are a few trees of no very peculiar figure or beauty ; but the ground 
 itfelf is covered with a kind of gravel. There are fome linall fields of 
 grafs that belong to the place, whicii wear an appearance of neglecl: 
 we Ihould not have expected to find in a country \\ here we had not 
 hitherto feen an uncultivated fpot. 
 
 The windows of the apartments confined of lattice work covered 
 with a glazed and painted paper. In the hot feafons the doors are 
 opened during the day, and their place fupplied by cooling blinds^ 
 made of bamboo, fancifully coloured, and wrought as fine and clofc 
 as a weaver's reed ; they certainly ferved to refreili the rooms where 
 they were placed, and afforded fome degree of coolnefs to alleviate the 
 heat of the day ; but at night the doors were reftored to their office, 
 and thefe blinds were rolled up and faftened to the wall over them. 
 
 The whole range of apartments contained no otiier furniture than 
 a few very common tables and chairs j not a bed or bcdltead was to 
 
 be
 
 »793- 
 
 Auguft. 
 
 ( 1^2 ) 
 
 be feen in the whole place; it was, therefore, a fortunate circum- 
 ilance for us that we providently brought our cots ind hammocks 
 from on board the fhips, or we fliould not have flept ia a bed, at leaft 
 idurino- our relidence in China. The natives have no fuch comforta- 
 ble article of furniture in their houfes, but fleep on a kind of mattrefs, 
 and cover themfelves with a cufhion fluffed and quilted with cotton. 
 They pull off a very fmall part of their drefs when they go to refl, and 
 when the weather proves cold, they increafe the number of thef& 
 cufliions as the circumflances of the feafon may require. In the place 
 of bedfteads they ufe a large wooden bench, which is raifed about two 
 feet from the ground, and covered with a kind of elaffic balket work 
 made of bamboos, on which feven or eight perfons may fpread their 
 bedding. I have alfo feen fome of them formed of planks, and covered 
 with carpets. 
 
 This habitation had a mofl ungracious and deferted appearance; 
 and, from the flate in which we found it, a long time muft have 
 elapfed fmce it was inhabited by any thing but centipes, fcorpions, 
 and mufquetos, which infefted it in every part. It is furrounded by a 
 very hio^h and ffrong wall of flone, which excluded every external 
 objedt ; nor was any perfon belonging to the embaffy permitted, on 
 any pretence whatever, to pafs its boundaries, mandarins and foldiers 
 being flationed at every avenue to keep us within the precincfls of this 
 miferable abode ; fo that we were in reality in a flate of honourable 
 jmprifonment, without any other confolation for the lofs of our liberty, 
 but that we were fupplied with our daily pro vi lions at the expenle of 
 jthe Emperor. 
 
 The Ambaflfador's apartments were guarded both night and day by 
 Britifli centinels ; and, to fupport the dignity of his great diplomatic 
 .charadlcr, his Excellency required that a table Ihould be, in futui^c, 
 furnifhed for himfelf and Sir George and Mr. Staunton, diifindl from 
 the gentlemen of his fuite. This requifition found a ready com- 
 plianice, and this day he dined in his own apartment, while the upper 
 
 rank*
 
 ( ^^3 } 
 ranks of tliofe who attended on the embafTy, had a table prepared for '7')3- 
 them in one of the courts, and beneath the (hade of a tree. Auguft. 
 
 The place where the prefcnts were depofitcd, was fo cxpofcd to the Friday 13. 
 fun, that it was apprehended Ibme of them would receive confidcrablc 
 injury from their unfavourable fituation ; a temporary Ihed was there- 
 fore immediately cred:ed, to which they were fpccddy removed. 
 
 Lord Macartney being very much diffatisfied with his fituation, 
 made a ferious requifition for the appointment of a refidence more 
 (iiited to the charadler with which he was invefted, as well as to 
 the convenience and proper accommodation of the embafly. To ob- 
 tain this objed;, Mr. Plumb, his Excellency's interpreter, made fevcral 
 vifits to Pekin : little, therefore, occurred worthy of a recital during the 
 remainder of our flay in this uncomfortable abode. It continued, 
 however, till the twenty-fevcnth day of this month, which was ap- 
 pointed for the Ambaffador's departure for Pekin ; a more commo- 
 dious refidence having been allotted for the embaffy, in coni'equence of 
 Mr. Plumb's negotiation with the Chinefe government on the occa- 
 sion. 
 
 This interval was not paiTcd by any of the gentlemen of the Ante, 
 or the inferior attendants, with fatisfadlion or patience; and Col. 
 Benfon was fo hurt and mortified at being denied the liberty of pafling 
 the walls of the palace, that he made an attempt to gratify his incli- 
 natiojis, which produced a very unpleafant affray, when he was not 
 only forced back from his defign, but threatened with very illiberal 
 treatment from the Chinefe who were on duty at the gates. 
 
 Several other difputes of a fimilar nature took place between the 
 fuite and the natives who guarded the palace. It was, without doubt, 
 a very humiliating circumftance for Engliihmen, attending alfo as 
 they were upon a miflion, that by the law of nations poU'elTes the 
 jnolt enlarged and imiverfal privileges, to be treated in a manner
 
 t '^93- ^ fo ill-fuked to their individual, as well as political, charader : at the 
 Atiguft. fame time, it would, perhaps, have been more difcreet to have fpared 
 thofe menaces which were continually exprefTed againft perfons 
 charged with an official duty, and afting under the diredlion of their 
 fuperiors ; and to have fubmitted with patience to thofe regulations, 
 which, however unpleafant, were fuch as were adopted by, and might 
 be the ufage of, that government, whofe partial favour and friend- 
 fhip it was the intereft, and, therefore, the duty of the Britifh em- 
 bafTy, by infinuating addrefs and political manoeuvre, to obtain and 
 cftablifh. 
 
 Saturday 14. The pleafure that was this day felt by the whole of the fuite of every 
 denomination, is not eafily defcribed, when orders were received to 
 prepare for quitting this horrid place on the Monday following. 
 
 Sunday a J. This and the fucceeding day were employed in removing the greater 
 
 part of the baggage and prefects, which was accomplilhed, as it had 
 hitherto been, by the coolies, or porters. 
 
 The chandeliers, mathematical apparatus, together with the clocks 
 and time-pieces, were left at the palace of Yeumen-manyeumen, as 
 fuch frequent removals might materially injure, if not altogether fpoil 
 thofe pieces of mechanifm, the wonders of whofe operations mufl de- 
 pend upon the delicacy of their movements. 
 
 Monday 26. At ten o'clock in the morning fingle horfe carts were provided for 
 the whole train of the embafly. The foldiers, mechanics, and fer- 
 vants, were lodged two in a cart ; and each of the gentlemen had a 
 cart to himfelf ; but the Ambaflador, with his fecretary and inter- 
 preter, were, as before, accommodated with palanquins. 
 
 The bufincfs of our fetting off was, as it had hitherto been, a 
 fcene of confufion and diforderj but by eleven o'clock, we had, to 
 ©ur extreme fatisfaition, bid adieu to our late uncomfortable re- 
 
 fidence.
 
 ( "5 ) 
 fidcncc. Wc foon paflcd through the village from whcnrc the paJacc 179^ 
 appears to derive its name, amidil a vafl crowd of fpcdbitors ; and, at Ai)r;:'l. 
 one o'clock, arrived at the north gate of the city of Pekiu ; which is 
 the counterpart of that wc have already defcribed. In our progrcfs 
 through the ftreets wc pafled a pagoda, which is the firft we had iL-cn 
 in China. In our voyage up the river, or in our journey from Tong- 
 tchew to Pekin, we had not fecn one of thefc buildings, which are, 
 in a great meafure, peculiar to this part of the eaft, till we arrived in 
 this city : it is fituated in the center of a very pretty garden adjoining 
 to a mandarin's palace. 
 
 This pagoda is a fquare ftrudure, built of flone, and diminiflics 
 gradually from the bottom, till it terminates in a fpire. It had 
 only one gallery, which encircled it near the top, and was guarded 
 by a rail : a curtain of red filk at this time, hung from a projeding 
 canopy, and gave this part of the building, when fcen at a dif- 
 tance, the appearance of an umbrella. It was feven ftories in height, 
 and was without any kind of exterior ornament, but that which 
 1 have already defcribed. 
 
 As our return to Pekin was not only fudden but unexped:cd, our 
 re-entry was not particularly interrupted by the public curiofity, and, 
 at half pafl: two in the afternoon, wc arrived, without having met with 
 any material impediments at the princely palace, which had been ap- 
 pointed for the future relidcncc of the embafly. It is the property of 
 John Tuck, a name generally given by Engliflimen, but why, or 
 wherefore, I cannot tell, to the Viceroy of Canton, who was now here 
 as a flate prifoner, for fome embezzlement of the public treafurcs, or 
 other mifdemeanors refpe6.ing his government there. 
 
 This palace is built of a grey brick, and is extremely fpacious, con- 
 taining twelve large and fix fmall courts. The bricks are cemented 
 with fuch curious care, that the feams of mortar between them are as 
 linallas a thread, and placed with fuch peculiar uniformity, that a mi- 
 
 0^2 nute
 
 ( 11^ ) 
 
 '793' nutc examination is neceflary to convince the fpeilator that it is not the 
 
 Augiift. work of a painter, rather than that of a bricklayer, and that the pencil 
 
 has not been employed to produce the effeiSt inftead of the trowel. 
 
 Thefe bricks have the fmoothnefs of marble, are (ixteen inches in 
 
 length, eight inches broad, and two and an half in thicknefs. 
 
 The whole range of buildings, except two diftindl parts, which 
 were inhabited by the Ambaflador and Sir George Staunton, occupy 
 but one, though a very lofty ftory. The courts are fpacious and regu- 
 lar fquares, and paved with large flat flones. Before the building, in 
 each of thefe fquares, there is a raifed terrace of about three feet, to 
 which there are regular flights of fleps in the center of each angle, and, 
 of courfe, correfponding witli each other. Over thefe terraces there is a 
 projecfting roof, which extends the breadth of them, and is fupported 
 by light pillars of wood, ranged at equal diftances, and connedled by 
 a railing of fanciful contrivance. The whole is gilt and painted with 
 much prettinefs, as to pattern and colour; and forms a mofl: elegant 
 piazza, that not only adds to the grandeur, but, which is a better 
 thing, to the convenience of this fuperb manfion. 
 
 Here I firfl: obferved the fuperiority of the Chinefe in the art of houfe 
 painting, to which they give a glols equal to japan, that not only pre- 
 ferves the colours from fading, but never fuffers any injury itfelf from 
 the expofition of air, or fun, or rain. I at firfl: confidered this effcit 
 to have been produced by varnifli ; but I afterwards difcovered that it 
 proceeded from certain ingredients with which the colours are origi- 
 nally mixed, and not from any fecond operation. 
 
 The apartments arc very commodious and of large dimenfions ; 
 fome of them were hung with a gliflening paper of a pattern, both as 
 to colour and beauty, far fuperior to any I had ever feen in Europe : 
 others -were curioufly painted and enriched with gilding. Thofc oc- 
 cupied by Lord Macartney were numerous and elegant, and con- 
 tained a private theatre. The latter is of a fquarc form, with a paint- 
 ed
 
 ( "7 ) 
 ed gallery which nms entirely round it for the audience : the ftage is , |79?- 
 raifcd from the floor about three feet, and has the appearanccof a large Auguft 
 platform : it is furroundcd by a wooden railing, and has a paffagc of 
 eight feet wide all round it: behind the flage is a fuite of rooms for 
 the convenience of the adlors, who drefs in them, or retire thither to 
 make any ncceflary transformation in their charaders during the per- 
 formance. The building is very lofty, and the roof elegantly painted. 
 The apartments of Sir George Staunton were alfo very handfome and 
 convenient. The whole fuite were likewife accommodated in a manner 
 that gave them the mofl: entire fatisfadlion. 
 
 The windows are covered with ghzcd paper, and the doors of the 
 principal rooms confift of gilded frame-work, which is fitted up witli 
 fine filk gauze, inftead of glafs. The frames, both of the doors and 
 windows, are richly gilt; and, in the warm feafons, the former being 
 always kept open, a curtain, if it may be fo called, of painted fret- 
 work, made of bamboo, fupplies their place, as I have already obferved 
 in former defcriptions. 
 
 In fevcral courts of the palace there are artificial rocks and niins of 
 no mean contrivance, which, though not very congenial to their fitua- 
 tipn, were formed with confiderable fkill, and were, in themfelvcs, 
 very happy imitations of thofe objedls the^ were defigned to repre- 
 fent. To thefe may be added, the triumphal arches^ which arife, 
 with all their fanciful devices, in various parts of the building. 
 
 This noble manfion is of great extent, and calculated to afford every 
 kind of princely accommodation; but, with all its magnificence, as to 
 the number of the apartments, and the general difplay of the whole, 
 its only furniture was fome chairs and tables, and a few fmall plat- 
 forms covered with carpets and bamboo matting. 
 
 Beneath the floor, in each of the principal apartments, is a flove, or 
 furnace of brick-work, with a circular tube that is conduced round 
 
 S the
 
 ( ii8 ) 
 1793. tlie room where it ftands, which is fufficient alfo to warm the apartment 
 Aiiguft "^ above it. They are, in cold weather, conflantly fupphed with char- 
 coal, and communicate their heat in the manner of our hot-houfes in 
 England. The houfes here have no chimnies that I could difcover, 
 and, of courfe, no other means of admin iftering heat can be employed 
 but thofe which have juft been mentioned. 
 
 At four o'clock in the afternoon, the whole fuite fat down to dinner, 
 which confifled, as ufual, of a great variety of flews and haflies. In- 
 deed, a joint of meat is feldom or ever fcen, but on fcftival days ; of 
 which I lliall fpeak more hereafter. His Excellency and Sir George 
 Staunton dined together. But with all the fuperiority of accommodation 
 we enjoyed here, we continued to be guarded with the fame fufpici- 
 ous vigilance as in our late refidence. On no pretence whatever was 
 any one permitted to pafs the gates, and every acceflible part of the 
 place was under the ad:ive care of military power. 
 
 This palace, according to the reports of the country, was ere(5led by 
 the Viceroy of Canton, from the fruits of his exertions during his 
 government there, and particularly on the fhipping of the Englifh 
 nation at that port ; for which adls of injuftice and oppreffion he was, 
 as I have before mentioned, at this time, a priibner at Pekin. The 
 money expended on this immenfe building amounted to ninety-feven 
 thoufand pounds ftcrling. A moffc enormous fum in a country where 
 the materials for building, and the labour which puts them together, 
 are to be obtained at fo cheap a rate. 
 
 Tuefdaya;. This day was principally occupied in arranging the various apart- 
 ments for the convenience of the gentlemen, &c. to whom they were 
 allotted, as well as in providing fuitable places for the reception of the 
 heavy baggage. 
 
 The cloths and bale goods, with that part of the more valuable pre- 
 fents which were of the fmalleft compafs, were diftributed between 
 
 4 the
 
 ( it9 ) 
 
 the apartments of Lord Macartney and Sir George Staunton : the re- 
 mainder was removed to fevcral large chambers, which formed a large 
 and commodious magazine for their reception. The fix pieces of 
 fmall ordnance and two mortars were placed in the inner court, with 
 all their appendages, and mounted on their carriages, in front of the 
 AmbafTador's apartments. 
 
 Thefe arrangements being made in the mofl: proper and convenient 
 manner which our (ituation would admit, it remained for us to wait 
 with patience, till his Imperial Mujefly's pleafure fl^ould be known, 
 whether the embafTy was to proceed to Tartary, or to be cooped up in 
 its prcfent abode till the ufual feafon of his Majefly's return to the 
 capital of his empire. To obtain this intelligence fo important to us, 
 a mandarin had been difpatched, on our arrival at Tong-tchew, to the 
 Emperor's fummcr refidence in Tartary, and wc were in continual 
 expe(5tation of the return of this meflenger. 
 
 In the courfe of this day, the Britifli Ambaflador was vifited by a 
 company of mandarins, among whom were feveral perfons, natives of 
 France, who had been of the order of jefuits; but being prohibited 
 from promulgating their dodrines in this country, had affumed its drefs 
 and manners ; and, on account of their learning, had been elevated to 
 the dignity of mandarins. Thefe French gentlemen, who were, as 
 may be very readily conceived, well acquainted with the interefls of 
 the country in which they were now naturalized, encouraged Lord 
 Macartney to hope for the mofl fatisfadory and beneficial ilTue of the 
 embalTy which he conducted. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 I20 
 
 C HAP. X. 
 
 Lord Macartney receives notice, that it is the IL»iperor's plcafure to re- 
 ceive the evibajy at the Imperial refidence in T^artary . The perfons 
 Jeledled to attend the Ambajfador in his progrefs thither. The particu- 
 lar occupations ajjigned to thofe who voere left at Pekln. Arrange- 
 ments for the journey into Tartary. heave Pekin ; circumfances of 
 the journey. 
 
 ^ ' y ■» i. HE Ambaffador received a vifit this morning from the mandarin 
 Wednef-' Van-Tadge-In, who informed his Excellency, that the meffenger who 
 '^y*8. j^^j ht^w fent to know his Imperial Majefty's pleafure refpeding the 
 Britifli embafly, was returned, and that the Emperor defired the Am- 
 baffador to proceed to Tartary, where he wilhed to fee him, and to 
 receive his credentials. 
 
 Thurfdayag. This moming the final arrangements were made refpedling that part 
 of the fuite who were to accompany the embafly into Tartary. They 
 confifted of 
 
 Sir George Staunton, 
 
 Mr. Staunton, 
 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, 
 
 Captain Mackintofli, of the Hindoflan, 
 
 Lieutenant Parifli, 
 
 Lieutenant Crewe, 
 
 Mr. Winder, 
 
 Dodor Gillan, 
 
 Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, 
 
 Mr. Baring, and, 
 
 Mr. Huttner, 
 
 Mr.
 
 ( '^-^ ) 
 
 Mr. Maxwell remained at Pckin, with tlircc fcrvants, in order to 
 fettle the houfl-hold of the Ambuflador, as, on his return from Tar- 
 tary, it was intended that his eftablifliment and appearance fliould be, 
 in every rcfped, fuited to the charader and dignity of the fovereign 
 whofe rep re fen tat ive he is. 
 
 Do6lor Scott was alfo to be left, in order to take care of fevcral of 
 the foldicrs and fcrvants, who were, at this time, very much afflided 
 with the bloody flux. 
 
 Mr. Hickey and Mr. Alexander were to be employed in preparing 
 the portraits of their Britannic Majcfties, which, with the flate canopy, 
 were to be the appropriate furniture of the prefence chamber of the 
 Amballador. 
 
 Dodor Dinwiddie and Mr. Barrow were to regulate the prefents 
 that had been left at the palace of Yeumen-manyeumcn, and to put 
 them in a flate to be prefented to the Emperor, on the AmbalTador's 
 return to Pckin. 
 
 The guards, muficians, and fervants received orders to hold them- 
 felves in readincfs, to fet out on Monday morning, with no other bag- 
 gage but their bedding, and fuch necclfaries as were abfolutcly in- 
 dili^enlable on the occafion. 
 
 The gentlemen of the fuite were likewife rcquefted to content them- 
 felves with the uniform of the embaffy, a common fuit of clothes, and 
 fuch other articles as they might judge to be ablblutely necellary for 
 their own comfort, and the formality of the occafion. 
 
 Mr. Maxwell received orders to diflribute to each of the muficians 
 and fcrvants, a fuit of the ftate liveries, in order that the attendants 
 might appear in that uniform drefs, which would add to the dignity 
 and fplendoraf the Ambalfador's entrance into Jehol. 
 
 R The 
 
 '/7^ 
 
 Auguft.
 
 ( 122 ) 
 
 I793. I'J^c carpenters were employed this morning in unpacking an old 
 
 ^^J^^J^ travelling chaife belonging to Sir George Staunton, in which Lord 
 Fiidr.yjo. Macartney propofed to travel to Jehol. This carriage greatly at- 
 traded the notice of the Chinefe, who flocked about it to lee the na- 
 ture of its conftrudlion, and the materials of which it was formed, 
 which they examined with a very lingular curiolityj and fome of 
 them were fo anxious to underftand all its parts, that they made 
 various drawings of it. But fo familiar are the eyes of thefe peo- 
 ple to the glare and glitter of colours and gilding, that, however 
 they might admire the mechanifm' and contrivance of the carriage, 
 they did not hefitate to exprefs their difapprobation of its exterior 
 appearance; which, I muft own, did not pofTefs any very uncommon 
 decree of attraction. 
 
 o 
 
 At noon Mr. Plumb came to inform the fuite, on the part of Van- 
 I'adge-In, the attendant mandarin, that fuch as preferred to travel on 
 horfeback, were to give in their names, that horfes might be pre- 
 pared for them ; and thofe who chofe the conveyance by carts, fliould 
 be provided accordingly. 
 
 After thefe travelling arrangements were fettled, the muficians, fer- 
 vants, &CC. attended at Mr. Maxwell's apartment, to receive the 
 clothes in which they were to make their public appearance at Jehol. 
 A large cheft was produced on the occafion full of clothes : they were 
 of green cloth, laced with gold; but their appearance awakened a 
 fufpicion that they had already been frequently worn, and on 
 tickets, fewed to the linings, were writfen the names of their for- 
 mer wearers ; and as many of thefe tickets appeared, on examin- 
 ing them, to be the viliting cards of Monfieur dj la Luzerne, 
 the late French ArnbalTador, it is more than probabb, that they had 
 been made up for fome gala, or fete, given by that minifler. But 
 whether they were of diplomatic origin, or had belonged to the 
 theatres, is of no confequence, they were never intended for a(ftual 
 /cfyice, being made only for a few temporary occafions, whatever they 
 
 might
 
 ( 123 ) 
 
 might be. With thcfc habiliments, however, fuch as they were, 
 eve.y man fitted himfelf, as well as he could, with coats and waift- 
 coats, as thcic was a great dearth of" fmall-clothes, of which there 
 were not more in the whole package than were fuflicicnt for the ac- 
 commodation of fix perfons. The Chinefc may not be fuppofcd to be 
 capable of diftinguilhing on the propriety of our figure, in thcfc ill- 
 fuitcd uniforms ; but we certainly appeared in a very flrong point of 
 ridicule to each other. The two couriers were furnifhed with beaver 
 helmets, but not an hat was diftributed to accompany thefe curious 
 liveries ; which, after all, the fervants were ordered not to put on 
 till the day when they were to add fo much to the entry of the 
 embafly into Jehol. 
 
 When the chaife was put in complete order for the journey, a difli- 
 culty arofe, againft which, as it was not forcfeen, no provifion could be 
 made; and this was no Icfs than to get a couple of poflillions : at 
 length, however, a corporal of infantry, who had once been a pofl- 
 boy, offered his fervice, and a light-horfeman was ordered to affifl him 
 in condudling the carriage. 
 
 This morning fuch of the prefcnts and baggage as were intended to Saturday 31. 
 be forwarded to Tartary, were fent off: fome of them were carried by 
 mules, others in carts ; but the more valuable articles, and thofe of 
 delicate fabric and curious conftrudlion, were borne by men. 
 
 This important bufinefs being difpatched, a great number of horfcs 
 were brought to the palace, when each of the gentlemen and the other 
 perfons of the fuite who propofed to ride, made choice of his horfe ; 
 and the animals which were thus feledted for the fervice of the ap- 
 proaching journey, were then delivered to thofe perfons whofe oflicc 
 it was to take proper care of them till the time of our departure. 
 
 The pofWlions were permitted to exercife the horfes in the chaife . 
 for an hour, through the ftreets of Pekin. They were guarded both 
 
 R 2 by
 
 ( in ) 
 
 by mandarins and {'oldiersj and, indeed, fuch were the crowds which 
 allembled to fee this extraordinary fpcdlacle, that fome kind of autho- 
 rity and exertion was neceflary to give the drivers an opportunity of 
 fliewing their flcill, and exhibiting the equipage and its apparatus to 
 advantage. The corporal being alfo furnillied on the occalion with 
 the jacket, hehiiet, &c. of the hght horfe, the pofliHions not only 
 made an uniform, but a very pretty, appearance. 
 
 The AmbafTador received a vifit from feveral mandarins ; when the 
 band played on the flage of the theatre for their entertainment. 
 
 September, 
 
 Sunday i. 
 
 Monday ;. 
 
 Lieut. Parifli exercifed his men in the ordnance evolutions, to keep 
 them in pradice, as it was thought very probable that, on prefenting 
 the artillery to the emperor, he might defire to fee an exhibition of 
 European ta6lics. 
 
 As it was ordered that the embafly fliould {et out to-morrow morn- 
 iiig at two o'clock, fome of the baggage, to prevent as much as pof- 
 fible the confiifion which had been hitherto experienced, was fent 
 forward this evening. 
 
 Soon after one o'clock this morning, the drums were beat through 
 all the courts of the palace, and in half an hour the whole fuite was 
 in motion. The bedding was then fent on in carts j and the Ambaf- 
 fador, with his attendants, having made a flight breakfaft, quitted the ' 
 palace at half an hour paft three o'clock, under a flrong efcort of 
 Chinefe cavalry. But, even at this early hour, the crowd of fpec- 
 tators was fo great to fee our departure, that the progrefs of the car- 
 valcade was very much impeded, efpecially the carriage of the Am- 
 haiTador, which, from the concourfe of people, and the aukwardnefs 
 of the horfes that had not been properly broke into their new geer, 
 ^•as for fom.e time very much delayed, 
 
 At
 
 At fcv.ea o'clock we paflcd through the city gate, and in abour >7jx- 
 liali' an hour had exchanged the fuburbs for a very rich and finely- September! 
 cultivated country. The road, though very broad, had no jiavcment 
 in the center, liive that which leads from Tong-tchew to Pckin. At 
 the end of fix miles we flopped at a confiderable village called Chin- 
 giho, where we flayed to take the ufual rcfrefliments of tlie morning, 
 which have been fo often mentioned. Our route was then continued 
 through a great number of villages, and near two o'clock arrived at 
 one of the Emperor's palaces named Nanfliiihce, wliere we were 
 appointed to remain during the firft night of our journey. 
 
 The mandarin Van-Tadge-In, whom I have had fuch frequent 
 occafion to mention, rather increafed than diminillied his a(5tivity on 
 the prefent journey ; which might arifc, perhaps, from our being 
 more particularly under the Imperial care and protection. We were 
 here provided with every requifite accommodation, and in a very 
 comfortable manner. To our dinner each day was added a regale of 
 Jooavv and famtfhoo : the former is a bitter wine of the country; and 
 the latter, a very ftrong fpirit diftilled from rice and millet, whole 
 appearance refembles that of Britilh gin. 
 
 In the evening the feldiers were excrcifed by Lieutenant Cul. 
 Benfon. 
 
 We computed the journey of this day to be about twenty-five miles; 
 and, though it may appear but dull travelling to perfons accuftomed 
 to the expedition of Englilh roads, it will be confidered as no veiy 
 tardy progrefs, when the obflacles are known which tended to im- 
 pede it. 
 
 The fame horfes were to take us (he whole journey, and the fame 
 men to carry the baggage ; befides, the whole of our provifions 
 was ordered and dreffed at the feveral places through which we 
 palfcd on the road, and conveyed in bowls, carefully covered up 
 
 in
 
 ( 126 ) 
 
 J793- in trays, on men*s (houlders, to every llage of our journey, for oui' 
 September, refrefhment there. 
 
 The diftance from Pekin to Jehol is one hundred and fixty miles, 
 which was divided into pretty nearly equal journies of feven days. 
 This arrangement was made that the embaffy might be accommodated 
 each day beneath an Imperial roof; as the Emperor, for his own 
 convenience and dignity, has a certain number of palaces built at 
 equal diftances on the road from Pekin to his fummer refidence in 
 Tartary. This privilege was confidered to be a moft flattering mark 
 of diftindion, as it is never granted to the firft mandarins of the 
 empire. 
 
 Of this palace we can fay but little, as no parts of it were open to 
 us but thofe which we inhabited. It did not rife higher than one 
 ftory ; nor, from what we had an opportunity of feeing, did it ap- 
 pear that the interior apartments were fuperior to the external form j; 
 which had nothing either of elegance or figure to attrad attention. 
 The central part of the courts was planted with trees and flowers 
 of various kinds, which had a very pleafing effed:. An extenfive 
 garden furrounded the palace, but we could not, to our very great 
 difappointment, obtain accefs to it. 
 
 Tuefday 3. We continued our journey at four o'clock tliis morning, with the 
 
 fame guard of Chinefc cavalry; and, after having pafled the village 
 of Cantim, which pofTefles the ufual charadteriflic of every Chinefe 
 village we have yetfeen, an overflowing population, we arrived at the 
 town of Wheazou, a place of fome confideration ; and, after the ufual 
 refrelhments, proceeded beneath a burning fun along dufty roads,, 
 but through a very fertile country, to the palace of Chanchin, where 
 -.ve arrived at one o'clock. It is a very extenfive building of one ftory 
 throughout, and contains ten or twelve fpacious courts,, fiu-rounded 
 with piazzas, and adorned with a garden, in the center, planted with 
 4. trees
 
 ( '27 ) 
 trees and flirubbcries that were interfered by walks. The country '793- 
 around it boafls a continuation of that fertih'ty which has been already Scpt.mbci. 
 mentioned. It was enclofed, and fed innumerable herds of cattle and 
 flocks of flieep : the former are fmall but veiy fat, but the flicep arc 
 both large and fat, with white faces, and a fliort thick tail, which is 
 a lump of fat, and weighs fevcral pounds. 
 
 We fet off this morning at five o'clock. The diftant country ap- Wcdncfdaj'4. 
 peared to be mountainous, and rofc boldly in the horizon. That 
 fertility of which fo much has been fiid, began fenfibly to diminifli, 
 and the richnefs of the foil was proportionably decreafing. At half 
 paft feven o'clock wc arrived at a fmall village, called Cuaboocovv, 
 where we breakfafled, and, from fome accidental circumflance, not 
 in the ufual ftile of plenty, in a place like a farm yard. 
 
 The road, as we proceeded on our journey, became extremely 
 rugged and difagreeable, and the heat of the weather continued 
 without any alleviation. 
 
 At noon we faw a very large walled city, called Caungchumfoaj 
 the walls of which were built of fl:one, and, though not fo lofty, in 
 the fame form as thofe of Pekin. 
 
 We paffed at leaft two hundred dromedaries and camels carr}'ing 
 very heavy loads of wood and charcoal, as it appeared, to the city 
 which has been juft mentioned. This large drove was under the 
 diredion of one man, who feemed to manage them all without the 
 leaft difficulty. Thefe animals are among the moft docile of the 
 brute creation ; belides, the length of time they can faft, and the 
 !>urthens they can bear, render them invaluable in tiic commerce of 
 the eaft. 
 
 The palace where the cmbafty was received at the end of this day's 
 journey, derives its name from the city of Caungchumfoa, near which it 
 
 rtands :
 
 ( i^s ) 
 
 i-gj. flands : it is furrounded with gardens, but has little to diftinguifli it 
 *": — ^T"^ from thofe which we have aheady inhabited. 
 
 September. ■' 
 
 This was the moll: fatiguing and unplcafant day of our whole route, 
 both from the heat of the weather and the badnefs of the road, which 
 was fo nigged and narrow in many places, that fome of the carts were 
 overturned J but, happily, without any accident to thofe whom they 
 conveyed. 
 
 C II A P.
 
 ( »29 ) 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 j^rrive at the town of Waung-chauyeng. Defcription of Ch'mcfe fol- 
 dlen, &c. Pafs the great wall. Defcription of it. The different 
 appearance of Tar tar y and China. Pafs an extraordinary mountain, 
 j^rrive at the palace of Chaung-Jhanuve ; the circumjiances of it. 
 Example of the i?idufry of the peafants, and the cultivation of the 
 country. Some account of the tenure by which lands are held in 
 China. jJrrive at the palace of Callachottueng. Defcription of it. 
 Arrangements fettled for the inanner in which the embajjy was to 
 make its entrance into Jehol, 
 
 XxS tKe country was now become very irregular and mountainous, ,7^3. 
 fhe roads were proportionably fatiguing. At nine we arrived at the V"?''!^^ ' 
 town of Waung-chauyeng. At a fmall diftance from it, we paffed Thurfdayj. 
 an arch of great flrength, which flretchcd acrofs a valley to unite the 
 oppcfite hills, and is guarded by a broad wall on either fide of it. ^" 
 A little further, the road proceeds up a very ftecp hill, on the top 
 of which there is a fort, with a flrong wall or rampart llrctching on 
 either fide of it, to the diftance of two or three miles. From the ele- 
 vated fituations which the inequality of the road frequently offered, 
 this wall was a very vilible objed; in its whole extent, and appeared to 
 be in a ftate of decay. 
 
 Beneath the fort is a ftrong, thick, ftone archway, through which 
 the road conducted us down a hill, whofe declivity was fuch, as to 
 oblige the drivers to have but one horfc in each carriage, and to fecure 
 a wheel with ropes, to prevent a too rapid defcent. At the bottom of 
 this hill, and in a moft romantic valley, ftands the town of Waung- 
 chauyeng, which refembles thofe places of the fame kind that have 
 been already defcribcd, except in the uniformity of them; this being 
 
 S ' built
 
 ( ^3^ ) 
 
 built with greater irregularity than any we have yet feen. It is about a- 
 mile in length, as well as I could judge from our paiTage through it, 
 but I had no opportunity of afcertaining its breadth : populous it was^ 
 of courfe, and appeared to be a very bufy place. 
 
 After breakfafl we proceeded towards a fpot on our journey, of which 
 we had all heard or read with wonder and aflonifliment j which fo few 
 Europeans had ever feen, and which no one of our own country would 
 probably ever fee but ourfelves : this was the great wall, the ancient 
 boundary of China and Tartary, through whofe portals our paflage 
 lay. 
 
 At the end of the town which has been juft mentioned, there was- 
 a temporary triumphal arch ereded in honour of the embafly, finely 
 decorated with flreamers and filks of various colours ; at the entrance 
 of which the Ambaffador was faluted with three guns. There we 
 palTed between a double line of foldiers, which extended on either fide 
 of the road, from the triumphal gateway towards the great wall. 
 
 Thefe were the only foldiers we had yet feen in China, who pof^ 
 -felled a martial appearance j and, according to my notion of fuch 
 things, I never faw a finer difplay of military parade. They were 
 drawn up in a very regular manner, each regiment being diflinguiflied 
 by a different drefs, and divided into companies : thefe were ranked 
 in clofe columns, and in their front flood the officers with two fl:ands 
 of colours. They were all arrayed in a kind of armour, whicl*. confifled. 
 of a loofe coat or robe, in imitation of a coat of mail, with fleel hel- 
 mets that covered their heads and flioulders. Their implements of 
 war were various, comprifing matchlocks, fabres, daggers, fpcars,, 
 halberts, lances, bows and arrows, with fome other weapons, 
 of which I knew not the name, and cannot particularly defcribe. 
 Thole companies of foldiers who wore no warlike inflrument but the 
 fword, had a fhicld to accompany it. In fhort, every one of thefe 
 
 military
 
 ( '3' ) 
 anilitary divifions was diflinguiflied by their dicfs and arms, and ^793. 
 arranged with the utmofl propriety, not merely as to regularity of po- SeptcmiKr. 
 fition in their general dilhibution, but as to the effect of contrart in 
 the variety of external appearance. On each fide of the road there 
 were feventecn of thefc divifions, each confiRing, as I Ihould think, 
 of about eighty men ; and a band of muficians, placed in a btiilding, 
 eredled, as it appeared, for thq occafion, continued to play, as the 
 cavalcade of the Englilli embafly pafled between the lines. 
 
 On approaching the wall, there were cantonments for a confidcra- 
 ble army, at the extremity of which there is a very flrong gateway, 
 built of ftone, and dill ftrengthencd with the addition of three 
 vafl iron doors ; on pafiing them, you enter at once into Chinefe 
 Tartary. On the outfide of another gateway is a flrong redoubt, 
 from whence I afcended the hill, and contrived to get on the top of the 
 great wall which formerly feparated the two empires. 
 
 This wall is, perhaps, the mod: flupcndous work ever produced 
 by man : the length of it is fuppofed to be upwards of twelve hundred 
 miles, and its height in the place where I flood upon it, for it varies 
 in its circumftances, according to the nature of the furface, is upwards 
 of thirty feet, and it is about twenty-four feet broad. The foundation 
 is formed of large fquare llones, and the reft is brick: the middle is of 
 tempered earth, covered with broad ftoncs : there is alfo a parapet 
 wall or bread:- work of done, three feet thick, on each fide of an 
 embattled wall. 
 
 When it is confidered that this immenfe ftruiflurc is* not merely 
 carried along level ground, but pafTes over immenfe rivers, where it 
 alTumes the form of bridges, fome of which contain double rows of 
 immenfe arches ; or dretches, in the fame expanfive fliape acrofs deep 
 vallies, to conned: the mountains that form them; and that it not only 
 defcends, but alfo afcends, the deeped declivities ; the idea of its gran- 
 
 S 2. deur.
 
 ( ^32 ) 
 »793' deur, and the adlive labour employed in conftmding it, in the fhort 
 September, fpace cf a few years, is not eafily grafped by the ftrongefl imagina- 
 tion. 
 
 Where it climbs the heights, the afcent is aided by large flights of 
 fteps, fo that the pafTage along it is at once eafy, fecure, and uninter- 
 rupted. In fliort, it formed a fine military way, by which the armies 
 of China, employed to defend its frontier againft the Tartars, 
 could march from one end of the kingdom to the other. There are 
 alfo, at proper diftances, ftrong towers, from whence, by certain 
 lignals, an alarm could be communicated, in a very fhort fpace of 
 time, acrofs the whole empire ; and wherever the wall attains the 
 fummit of an hill, or mountain, there is a ftrong fort defigned to 
 watch the excurfions and movements of the enemy. 
 
 The part of this wall, on which I Hood, commanded a very exten- 
 five view of it, with all the romantic fcenery conneded with it. From- 
 hence I faw the amazing fabric take its courfe for many miles over a 
 beautiful plain, watered by a large river, which it crofTed in the 
 form of a bridge. A little to the weftward it afcends a very lofty 
 mountain, which, on that fide, completes the profped. 
 
 ■^ • But the moft fiupendous works of man mufi: at length moulder away ; 
 
 and fince Tartary and China are become one nation, and, confequently, 
 fubjed to the fame government, the wall has loll its importance : 
 it being no longer necelTary for defence or fecurity, no attention is now 
 paid to its prefervation ; fo that the time is approaching when this 
 Itupendous monument of perfevering labour; when this unparalleled 
 effort of national policy, will become an enormous length of ruins, 
 and an aw^ful example of decay : many parts of it are already fallen 
 down, and others threaten to encumber the plain that they were 
 reared to defend. 
 
 One
 
 ( '33, ) 
 One of the mandarins informed me, as \vc were walking together on »79^ 
 (he wall, that, according to the hiflories of his country, it had been scpttii.btr 
 finilhed upwards of two thoufand years ago ; and, confequently, two 
 hundred years before the Chriflian iura. 
 
 I mud, however, acknowledge that, after all, this renowned barrier 
 of China did not, altogether, fati sfy my expedlations. The wonder 
 of it confifts in its extent, of which a fmall part is to be feen, and the 
 Ihort time in which it was credled, may equally aftonilh by reading an 
 account of it,* When I ftood on the top of it, I was (till obliged to 
 cxercife my imagination as to the aftonilhing circumflances conncdted 
 with it, and law it alfo in a comparative view with natural objed:s in- 
 finitely fuperior, at leaft, to any partial appearance of it^ 
 
 When we had pafled the wall, there was an immediate change ia 
 the appearance of the country, as well as the temperature of the feafon. 
 Inftead of a level range of various and iinceafing cultivation, of the 
 habitations of wealth, the crowd of population, and the exertion of 
 induftry ; we beheld a wide and barren wafle, fmking into vallics, and 
 rifing into mountains ; where no harveft waved, no villages poured 
 forth its inhabitants, or fplendid manfions enriched the fcene. The 
 traveller, however, is amply compenfated by the variety of natural 
 objects which prefent themfclves to him ; and the lover of pidturefquc 
 beauty finds, amidfl: all the increafmg inconveniencies of his joumcv, a 
 fource of enchantment wliich makes him forget them all. 
 
 At the diftance of about feven miles from the great wall, v/e came? 
 to the foot of a very high mountain, which the carls could not af- 
 cend without an additional number of horfes. The paffage through 
 this mountain is another proof of the genius and. indefatigable fpirit 
 of the Chinefe people in all works that relate to public utility. It is 
 thirty feet in breadth, cut through a folid. rock; and,, which is tli'j 
 more extraordinary part of this undertaking, the incifion made from 
 the top of the mountain to the furfacc of the road, is, at lead, one 
 
 hundixJ,
 
 ( 134 ) 
 
 ^__1''^L_/ hundred feet : — a ftupendous labour. But with this aid in eafing 
 September, j-ji^ pallage, the beginning of the afcent has a very fearful appear- 
 ance; but on the other fide the way Hopes down with a gentle decli- 
 vity between two large mountains towards a beautiful valley. 
 
 At two o'clock, we arrived at the palace of Chaung-ilianuve, which 
 is fitiiated on a fmall elevation, at the diftance of a mile and a half 
 from the bottom of the hill which has been juft defcribcd. It is of 
 large dimenfions, and furrounded by an high wall, being the refidence of 
 a confiderable number of the Emperor's women ; many "of whom I faw 
 peepino- over the partition which feparated their apartments from 
 the part of the palace afligned to the accommodation of the em- 
 bafly. Though it was not permitted for any of the Ambaffador's 
 fuitc, as may well be fuppofed, to vifit thefe ladies; the guardians of 
 them, who were all eunuchs, came to vifit us. There were, indeed, 
 feveral mandarins among them, to whom was corvfigned the care and 
 condud of the female community. This palace was furrounded with 
 very extenfive gardens, but, from the particular fervice to which it was 
 applied, it would have been a ftrong mark of folly, as well as an idle 
 rilk of danger, to have made any attempt to fee them. 
 
 Friday 6. We left Chaung-fhanuve this morning, at half paft fix, and found 
 
 the weather extremely cold and piercing. The road continued to take 
 the form of the country, which was very mountainous and irregular, 
 as well as naked, and without any other marks of cultivation but fuch 
 as denoted the poverty of it. But this barren appearance does not 
 proceed from the inadlivity of the inhabitants, who feize on every 
 fpot capable of being tilled, and in fituations which are accefTi- 
 ble only to the adventurous peafant, whom neceflity impels to ga- 
 ther a fcanty and dangerous harveft. One example of this hazardous 
 induftry, which I obferved this morning, will fufficiently illuflrate the 
 barrcnncfs of the country, and the fpirit of its fcattered inhabitants. 
 
 On
 
 ( '35 ) . 
 
 Ob a very Jiigh mountain I difcovercd fevcral diflind patches of '/O-- 
 cultivated ground, in fuch a ftate of declivity, as to be altogether in- 'sci,ta,.i^! 
 acceflible ; and while I was confidcring the means which the owner 
 of them niufl employ to plant and gather his vegetables on thefe 
 alaj-ming precipices, I beheld him actually employed in digging a fmall 
 fpot near the top of the hill, and in a fituation where it appeared to me to 
 be impoffible, without fome extraordinary contrivance, for any one to 
 itand, much lefs to be following the bufinefs of a gardener. A more 
 minute examination informed me, that this poor peafant had a rope 
 faflened round his middle, which was fecurcd at the top of the moun- 
 tain, and by which this hardy cultivator lets himfclf down to any parr 
 of the precipice where a few fquare yards of ground gave him encou- 
 ragement to plant his vegetables, or his corn : and in this manner he 
 had decorated the mountain with thofe little cultivated fpots that hung 
 about it. Near the bottom,, on an hillock, this induftrious peafant had 
 eredled a wooden hut, furrounded with a fmall piece of ground, planted, 
 with cabbages, where he fupported, by this hazardous induflry, a wife 
 and family. The whole of thefe cultivated fpots do not amount to more 
 than half an acre ; and fituated, as they are, at confiderable diflances 
 from each other J and, abftradled from the continual dan<^er he en- 
 counters, the daily fatigue of this poor man's life, they offer a very^ 
 curious example of the natural induflry of the Chinefe people. 
 
 It is, certainly, a wife policy in the government of China to re- 
 ceive the greater part of the taxes in the produce of the country ; and 
 is a confiderable fpur to improvement and induftry in every clafs of 
 the people, who are to get their bread by the exertions of genius, or the 
 fweat of their brow. The landlord, alio, receives the greater part of 
 his rents in the produce of his farms -, and the farmer pays his fer— 
 vants, in a great meafure, by giving them pieces of wjfte uncultivated 
 land, where there are any, with occa(ional encouragement to excite 
 their induftiy. Such are the culloms which prevail throughout China.,, 
 and tend fo much to preferve the profperity, and promote cultivation, 
 of every part of that extenfive empire.
 
 ( 136 ) 
 
 ^93* By ten o'clock this morning we arrived at the palace of Calla- 
 
 Septenib;r. chottueng, near a fmall village of 'the fame name, where we remained 
 the whole of this day, on account of the length of the next ftage; 
 and in order to make a more equal divifion of the reft of our journey. 
 
 This palace is fituated in a plain, between two very large and lofty 
 mountains : in form and external appearance it refembles thofe 
 we have already defcribed; but appears to be of modern erecflion ; 
 and its apartments are fitted up in a better ftyle than any we had yet 
 feen. In fome of the courts there were artificial ruins, a favourite ob- 
 jedt in the ornamental gardening of this country, furrounded with 
 plots of verdure. 
 
 As the embaffy now approached the termination of its journey, and 
 was foon to appear before the fovereign, to obtain whofe favour and 
 friendfliip it had traverfed fo large a part of the globe, the AmbafTa- 
 dor gave orders for rehearfing the procefTion, with which we were to 
 make our appearance at the imperial court. This evening, therefore, 
 the ceremonial was arranged, and performed, under the diredion of 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, and approved by the AmbafTador. The 
 . band played the Duke of York's march during the- time of our re- 
 hearfal. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 ( ^37 ) 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Arrive at the palace of Callachotrepangfu . Stop at one of the iLm- ^ 
 peror^s pagodas. The public entry into fehol ; and circumfanccs of it. 
 Dcfcription of the palace provided for the Br it if J embajjy . A principal 
 mandarin pays a viftt . of ceremony to the AmbaJJ'ador. Singular con- 
 du6i ref peeling the provifons fuppUed for the fuite. The prc- 
 fents unpacked and difplayed. An account of them. 
 
 yy E fet off this morniiig at fix o'clock, when the air was cold and ^ '"^^' > 
 piercing, and paffcd through a very hilly and mountainous country. |=P''-'"''er. 
 After having brcakf;iflcd at a village of the name of Quanflianglin, the 
 route was continued. 
 
 The villages we now paffed were well peopled, but the difference is 
 very great indeed between the population, as well as cultivated 
 Hate, of China and Tartary. On this fide of the wall, the pidure is 
 extremely varied, the face and produdlions of the country are no 
 longer the fame ; nor were there any towns of confidcratiou in the 
 latter part of our journey. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon we arrived, very much fatigued by 
 the badnefs of the roads, and the jolting faculties of our carriages, at 
 the palace of Callachotrefhangfu. It is a fpacious and noble edifice, 
 but has not been lately inhabited ; as might well be fuppofed, from the 
 great number of fquirrels running about the courts, and haunting the 
 apartments. 
 
 The embafly continued its route at fix o'clock, and, in about two Sunday 8. 
 hours, arrived at one of the Emperor's pagodas, about three miles from 
 
 T the
 
 r93- 
 
 September. 
 
 ( ^38 ) 
 
 the Imperial refidence. There a more abundant difplay of refrefh- 
 ments was prepared than we had fecn for feme time, from the diffi- 
 culty of procuring them in the country through which we paffcd. 
 Some time was alfo necelTary for every part of the fuite to arrange 
 their drefs, and fettle their appearance. At half paft nine, however,. 
 v.e arrived at a fmall village, called Quoangcho, at about the diflance 
 of a mile from Jehol. Here the fuite alighted from their horfes and 
 carriages, and put themfelvcs in a ftatc of preparation for the entry ; 
 which proceeded in the following manner, amidfl a prodigious con- 
 courfe of people, whom curiofity had led to fee fuch a fpediacle as 
 they had never feen before, and will never, 1 believe, behold again. 
 
 The foldiers of the royal artillery, commanded by Lieutenant Parifhi 
 The light-horfe and infantry, commanded by Lieutenant Crewe j 
 The fervants of the AmbaHlidor, two and two; 
 The couriers ; 
 
 The mechanics, two and two ; 
 The muficians, two and two ; 
 The gentlemen of the fuite, two and two ; 
 Sir George Staunton in a palanquin ; 
 
 The Ambalfador and Mr. Staunton in the poft-chaife, with a black- 
 boy, dreffed in a turban, behind it, clofed the proceflion. 
 
 There was, indeed, fomewhat of parade in all this bufmefs, 
 but it was by no means calculated to imprefs a favourable idea 
 of the grcatnefs of the Britilh nation, on the minds of thofe who 
 beheld it : they might be pleafed with its novelty ; but it did not, 
 in any degree, poffefs that charadteriftic appearance which was fo 
 neccifary on the prefent occafion. The military departments made a re- 
 fpedable figure, and the gentlemen of the fuite cannot be fuppofed 
 for a moment to derogate from the diplomatic charad;er in which 
 they were involved ; but the reft of the company exhibited a very 
 auk ward appearance : fome wore round hats, fome cocked hats, and 
 others llraw hats : fome were in whole boots, fome in half boots, and 
 
 others
 
 ( 139 ) 
 others in fliocs with colourctl (lockings. In fliort, iinlcfs it v.-as in n^'i- 
 fecond-hand coats and vvaiflcoats, which did not fit them, the inferior ^s7itrni>cr' 
 part of the fuitc did not enjoy even the appearance of fliabby uni- 
 formity. 
 
 In this flatc and order the proccfilon moved on with a flow pace to 
 the city of Jchol, and foon after ten o'clock arrived at the palace pro- 
 vided for the accommodation of the Britifla embally in this city. 
 Here the military part of the cavalcade formed a line to receive the 
 Ambaflador with the ufual honours. 
 
 Thus the embafly arrived at the end of its tedious and trou- 
 blefome journey : but the manner of its reception did not fill us 
 with any extravagant expcdation as to the ilTue of it ; for not a man- 
 darin appeared to congratulate the AmbafTador on his arrival, or to 
 iiftier him, with that form which his dignity demanded, to the 
 apartments provided for him. In fhort, we came to this palace with 
 more than ufual ceremony j but we entered into it with as little, as any of 
 thofe where we had been accommodated during our journey. This ap- 
 peared to be the more extraordinary, as it was the avowed expectation 
 of the principal pcrfons of the fuite, that the Ambalfador would be 
 met, on his entry at Jehol, by the Grand Choulaa, the Imperial 
 Minillier of ftate : but on what grounds this expecftation was formed, 
 or for what reafon it received fuch a difappointment, it is not for me 
 to offer a conjecture. • . 
 
 On our arrival, Lieut. Col. Bcnfon ordered the troops to hold 
 themfclvcs in rcadinefs to fall into a line at a moment's warning; and 
 dciired the fervants, mechanics, &zc. to range themfelves in order 
 before the door of the Amballiidor's apartments, in order to receive the 
 Grand Choulaa, who was cxpcd:cd every moment to pay his yilit of 
 falutation and welcome. 
 
 T a In
 
 ( HO ) 
 1793- In this ftate of fufpenfe we remained from our arrival till pafl four 
 
 September, o'clock ; in the courfe of which time we had paraded at leafl a dozen 
 times, as feveral mandarins came to take a curious view of us, and 
 every one of them was fuppofed, in his turn, to be the Grand Chou- 
 laa. The arrival of dinner, however, put an end to all expedations- 
 of feeing him on this day. 
 
 The palace, which was now become the refidence of the embafl)^, is 
 built on the declivity of a hill ; the entrance to it is by eight large 
 broad fteps which lead to a wooden gateway, through which there 
 is a paffage to a large court, paved in the center with large 
 flat ftones. On each fide of this court there is a long and broad 
 gallery roofed with black fliining tiles, and fupported in front by 
 Itrong wooden pillars. That on the left was employed at this time 
 as a kitchen, and enclofed by mats nailed along the pillars to the 
 height of feven or eight feet : the other, on the oppofite fide, was quite 
 open, and ufed as a place of parade and exercife for the foldiers. 
 At the upper end of this court there is another neat gallery or plat- 
 form laid with ftones, and roofed in the fame manner as the others. 
 To tiiis there is an afcent of three fieps, and a door opens from it into 
 another court, the wings of which .afforded chambers for the military 
 part of the embalTy ; and the center part, fronting the gallery, to 
 which there is an afcent of three fleps, contained the apartments of the 
 Ambaflador and Sir George Staunton : beyond this is another courj 
 of the fame dimenfions, the wings of which were occupied by the 
 mechanics, muficians and fervants, and the center of it by the gen- 
 ' tlemen of the fuite : but it confifled only of two large rooms, where 
 tliey flept in two divifions, and a lobby of communication, which 
 was ufed as an eating faloon. 
 
 This building cannot be defcribed as poffeffing either grandeur or 
 elegance : it does not rife beyond a ground floor, but is of unequal 
 height, as the ground on which it is built is on a gradual afcent. It 
 
 is
 
 ( HI ) 
 
 is furroundal by a wall, butis ovci looked, from tiic upper parts of the '"3- 
 hill, on whofc declivity it is crcdled. September. 
 
 But though vvc were as yet rather difappointed in the reception of 
 honours, we had no rcafon to be didatisficd with the attention paid 
 to our more urgent neceflities ; and we dined in comfort and abun- 
 dance. 
 
 This morning, at fo early an hour as fcvcn o'clock, was received a Monday q. 
 large quantity of boiled eggs, with tea and bread, for breakfafl. At noon 
 his Excellency was vifitcd by feveral mandarins. Nothing, however, 
 as yet tranfpired that could lead us to form a judgment as to the final 
 ifTue of the bufinefs : as far as any opinion could be formed from the 
 general afpccfl of things, it did not bear the promife of that fuccefs, 
 which had been originally expcdlcd from it. 
 
 The Grand Choulaa ftill delayed his expcdled vifit. 
 
 In this palace, as in our former places of refidence, we experienced 
 the jealous precaution of the Chinefe government : we were kept here 
 alfo in a ftatc of abfolute confinement; and, on no pretext, was it 
 permitted to any perfon, attached to the embalTy, to pals the gates. 
 
 This morning his Excellency was vifited by a mandarin, accom- Tuefdav lo. 
 panied by a numerous train of attendants. He remained with the 
 Ambafl'ador and Sir George Staunton about an hour, in which fome 
 neceflary formalities were interchanged ; and then returned with 
 the fame form in which he came. During the vifit of the mandarin, 
 his attendants were very bulily employed in examining the drefs of 
 the Englifli fervants ; the lace of which they rubbed u ith a llone to 
 certify its quality, and then looking at each other with an air of fur- 
 prize, they fliook their heads and fmiled; a fufficient proof that the 
 Tartars arc not unacquainted with the value of metals ; at leaft, they 
 clearly comprehended the inferior value of the trimmings that decorated 
 
 tlie
 
 ( H2 ) 
 
 1793- the liveries of the embafly. They appeared to be a polite and pleafant 
 'September.' P^ople, and of an agreeable appearance. 
 
 Though it cannot be fuppofed that fuch a conference as was this 
 morning held between the Britiih Ambaffador and the mandarin 
 would be communicated to the general attendants on the embafly, 
 yet we could not refill: the fpirit of conjecflure on the occafion: the 
 following circumftance, which took place this morning, did not 
 ferve to diflipate that difpofition to forebode ill, which prevailed 
 among us. 
 
 The Ambaflador ordered Mr. Winder, one of his fecretaries, to 
 intimate to the fervants that, in cafe they fliould find, in the courfe of 
 the day, any deficiency in their provifions, either in quality or quantity, 
 they Ihould not refled: or complain to tlie people who fupplied tliem, 
 but leave them untouched, and intimate the grievance to his Ex- 
 cellency; who requefted, for very particular and weighty reafons, 
 that this order might be pundiually obferved. 
 
 It became thofe to whom this intimation was made, to pay the 
 moft willing obedience to it j at the fame time, it excited no fmall 
 degree of artonifliment that we fhould thus be ordered to prepare our- 
 felves for ill-treatment in the article of provifions, of which we had, 
 hitherto, fo little reafon to complain. Our treatment in this refped: 
 had been not only hofpitable, but bounteous in the extreme. To 
 fuggeil caufes of complaint to thofe who never yet had reafon to com- 
 plain, was a conduit perfettly unintelligible in itlelt ; and was, there- 
 fore, very naturally referred to the interview of the morning between 
 the mandarin and the Ambaflador. 
 
 When, however, dinner came, we were fenfible that the precau- 
 tions communicated to us were, as we expedled to find them, the 
 refult of fomc well-grounded fufpicion; for, inflead of that abun- 
 dance with wiiich our tables had hitherto been ferved, there was not 
 
 now
 
 ( H3 ) 
 now a fiiflicicnt quantity of pravifions fur half the pcrfons who were 1793- 
 ready to partake of them. September. 
 
 The emotions of every one attached to the embaffy were, I bcHevc, 
 very unpleafant upon the occafion. Wc not only felt the probabihty that 
 we might be ftarved as well as imprifoned ; but that the embafiy itfelf 
 was treated with difrcfpcd: ; and, of courfe, we felt fomc alarm, left the 
 important objecfts of it would quickly vanifli into nothing. We hail 
 alfo our feelings as Britons, and'fclt the infult, as it appeared to us, 
 which was offered to the crown and dignity of the iirft nation in the 
 world. 
 
 This meagre meal, therefore, was left untouched; and, in confor- 
 mity to the orders which had been received, complaints were preferred 
 to his Excellency on the occafion ; and, on a report being made to 
 him that the reprefcntations which had been made were founded in 
 reality, Mr. l-'lumb, the interpreter, w^as requefted to communicate 
 the caufe of difcontent to the mandarin, and to infill on more hofpi- 
 table ufligc : nor was the rcmonilrance without an immediate efled ; 
 for, within five minutes after it was made, each table was ferved with 
 a variety of hot dilhes, not only in plenty, but profufion. 
 
 Why this entertainment, when it muft have been in a<5tual ftate of 
 preparation to be ferved, was thus withheld from us, could nof be re- 
 conciled to any principle of juftice or policy. To fuppofc that it pro- 
 ceeded from caprice, or an humorous fpirit of tantaliling, cannot be 
 readily imagined ; and, as for any faving of expenfc in the bufinefs, 
 that could be no objed: to the treafury to the Chinefe Emperor. It 
 was confidered, therefore, as an enigma, which, as the evil was 
 removed, foon ceafcd to be a fubjedl of curiofity or inquiry. 
 
 The Ambaffador was this morning pleafed to order the prefcnts Wednef- 
 which were brought from Pekin, to be unpacked in the great p.'at- ^ *^* 
 form, or portico, lacing his Excellency's apartments ; where feve- 
 4 ral
 
 ( H4- ) 
 1793- ral ranges of tables were placed to receive them. They were as 
 
 September. folloWS : 
 
 Two hundred pieces of narrow coarfc cloth, chiefly black and blue. 
 
 Two large telelcopes. 
 
 Two air guns. 
 
 Two beautiful fowling pieces; one inlaid with gold, and the other 
 
 with filver. 
 Two pair of faddle piftols, enriched and ornamented in the fame 
 
 manner. 
 Two boxes, each containing feven pieces of Irifh tabinets. 
 Two elegant faddles, with complete furniture; the feats of thefe 
 
 were of fine doe flcin, ftitched with filver thread; the flaps were 
 
 of a bright yellow fupcrfine cloth, embroidered with filver, and 
 
 enriched with filver fpangles and taflels ; the reins and flirrup- 
 ^ ftraps were of bright yellow leather, fl:itched with filver ; the 
 
 ftirrups, buckles, &c. were of fteel double plaited ; and. 
 Two large boxes, containing the fineft carpets of the Britilh manu- 
 
 fad;ory, 
 
 Thefe were all the prefents which were brought from Pekin : the 
 reft, confifting of various pieces of clock-work and machinery, with 
 carriages, and pieces of artillery, were either too cumberfome or too 
 delicate to venture on fo long a journey ; and were, therefore, intended 
 to be prefented to his Imperial Majefty, on his return, for the winter 
 ieafon, to the capital of his empire. 
 
 The prefents were ordered to remain in their prcfent fituation till 
 the Imperial pleafure fliould be known concerning them. Centinels 
 were appointed to do duty on the platform where they were placed. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 ( '45 ) 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 The prefents removed from the palace. Anotijlcal'ion received that the 
 Emperor would give audience to the Brili/lj Ambajfador. Ordi-r: 
 i/fued to the fuite on the occajton. The procejfton to the Imperial pa- 
 lace dcfcribed. The ylmbaJfador''s frjl audience of the Emperor. 
 Prefents received on the occafon. The yliiibaJJador''s fccond vifit to the 
 Emperor. Additional prefents. Favourable opinions entertained of 
 the fuccefs of the embaJJ}'. 
 
 L HIS morning, the concluding mandarin Van-Tadge-In, accom- 1793. 
 
 panied by feveral of his mandarin brethren, and a troop of attendants, ^pT^Iiibel^ 
 
 removed the prefents, as was prefumed, to the palace of the Em- ThurfOayi*. 
 peror. 
 
 His Excellency, at the fame time, received a vifit from a mandarin 
 of the firft order, who came to notify that the Emperor would, on 
 Saturday morning, give audience to the Ambaffador of the King of 
 Great Britain at the Imperial palace. This intelligence enlivened the 
 fpirits, as it animated the hopes, of the whole embalTy : and, though 
 the Grand Choulaa had not vifited the Ambaffador, and other circum- 
 ftances of an unfavourable afped: had taken place, the news of the day 
 not only diffipated our gloom, but renewed the tide of expedlation, 
 and made it flow with an accelerated current. 
 
 His Excellency received the vifits of feveral mandarins of diflinc- Friday 13. 
 tion, who continued with him upwards of an hour. 
 
 Orders were iffued, that the whole fuite fliould be ready on the 
 following morning, at three o'clock, to accompany the ArrfbalTador to 
 
 U the
 
 ( h6 ) 
 
 the Imperial palace. The fervants were ordered to drefs in their green 
 
 and gold liveries, and to wear white filk, or cotton ftockings, with 
 
 llioes; boots of any kind being abfolutely prohibited on this occafion. 
 
 It was, at the fame time, intimated, that neither the foidiers, or the 
 
 fervants, were to remain at the palace for the return of the Arn- 
 
 baflador ; but when they had attended him there, they were requelled 
 
 * to return immediately to Jehol, without prcfuming to halt at any 
 
 place whatever for a (ingle moment ; as his Excellency had every rea- 
 
 fon to expert that, in a few days, the prcfcnt reftridions, which were 
 
 fo irkfom.e to the retinue of the embaffy, would be removed, and 
 
 every indulgence granted them which they could reafonably dcfire t 
 
 and as any deviation from this order woidd tend to ril'que the lofs of 
 
 that meditated favour. His Excellency ferioufly exped:ed it to meet 
 
 with a general and willing obedience. 
 
 Saturday 14. This morning, at fo early an hour as three o'clock, the Ambaflador 
 and his fuite proceeded, in full uniform, to the Emperor's court. 
 
 His Excellency w^as dreiTed in a fuit of fpotted mulbeny velvet, 
 with a diamond ftar, and his ribbon; over which he wore the full 
 habit of the order of the Bath, with the hat, and plume of feathers, 
 which form a part of it. Sir George Staunton was alfo in a full 
 court drefs, over which he wore the robe of a dodor of laws in 
 the Englifh univerfities, with the black velvet cap belonging to that 
 degree. 
 
 Though the morning was fo dark that we could not dillinguilh 
 each other, Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon made an attempt to form a 
 proceffion, to proceed the palanquin of the AmbalTador. But this 
 manoeuvre was of very fliort duration, as the bearers of it moved 
 I'ather too fafl for the folcmnity of a flow march ; and, inflead of pro- 
 ceeding it with a grave pace, we were glad to follow it with a quick 
 one. Indeed, whether it was the attradiiori of our mufic, or any ac- 
 cidental circumftance, I know not, we found ourfeives intermingled 
 4 with
 
 ( 147 ) 
 
 with a cohort of pigs, aflls, and dogs, which broke our rank:,, fuch 1791- 
 as they were, and put us into irrecoverable confufion. All forniali<y s«,icniba. 
 of procefTion, therefore, was at an end ; and the Anribaffador's palaii- 
 <5[uin was fo far advanced before us, as t& make a little fniart running 
 neceflary to overtake it. 
 
 After a confufed cavalcade, if it can deferve that name, we arrived 
 at the palace of the Emperor, in the fame flatc of confufion in which 
 we had proceeded — the pedcftrian part of the fuitc being a little out 
 of breath with running; and the gentlemen on horfeback, not alto- 
 gether infenfible to the rilk of accidents from the dark hour of the 
 morning. In fliort, it appeared, to the greater part of thofc who were 
 concerned in it, to be rather ridiculous to attempt to make a parade 
 that no one could fee. 
 
 At about five o'clock the AmbafTador alighted from his palanquin, 
 amidfl: an immenfe concourfe of people ; Sir George and Mr. Staun- 
 ton bearing his train, and followed by the gentlemen attached to the 
 embafly. 
 
 The fervants, &c. returned according to order, and the foldiers 
 marched back with fife and drum. As our return was by day-light, 
 we had fome opportunity of examining the appearance of the city 
 where we refided. 
 
 It is a large and populous place, l>uilt without any attention what- 
 ever to regularity of defign, and lies in an hollow, formed by two 
 large mountains. The houfes are low, of a mean appearance, and 
 built chiefly of wood : the ftreets are not paved in any part of the 
 city, but in that quarter of it which is mod: contiguous to the Em- 
 peror's palace ; the road to which is laid with large flat ilones. 
 
 As this place is not watered by any river, it cannot be fuppofed to 
 enjoy a large portion of commerce. Its trade, however, is not al- 
 
 U 2 together
 
 ( h8 ) 
 together inconfiderable, from the confumptlon occafioned by the resi- 
 dence of the Emperor in the immediate neighbourhood; a circum- 
 ilance which not only occafions a great increafe of inhabitants, but 
 brings with it the wealth, the luxury, and the expences of a court. 
 
 The furrounding country wears a greater appearance of fertility, 
 than any I have feen in thofe parts of Tartary through which the 
 embafly had pafTed; but, in itsl)eft ftate, it is by no means comparable 
 to that of China. 
 
 At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, the Ambaflador and his- fuite 
 returned from the Imperial palace. It was a vifit of mere form and 
 prefentation ; and his Excellency, Sir George Staunton, and Mr. 
 Staunton, wnth Mr. Plumb, the interpeter, were alone admitted into 
 the prefence of the Emperor. 
 
 The Emperor, it was faid, received the credentials of the embaffy, 
 with a moft ceremonious formality. All, however, that we could 
 learn, as a matter of indubitable occurrence, was the notice liis Impe- 
 rial Majefty was pleafed to take of Mafter Staunton, the fon of Sir 
 George Staunton, He appeared to be very much ftruck with the 
 boy's vivacity and deportment ; and expreffed his admiration of the 
 faculty which the young gentleman poflelTed of fpeaking fix different 
 languages. The Emperor, to manifeft: the approbation he felt on the 
 occafion, not only prcfented him, with his own hand, a very beautiful 
 fan, and feveral fmall embroidered bags and purfes, but commanded 
 the interpreter to fignify, that he thought very highly of his talents 
 and appearance. 
 
 In a very fliort time after the AmbafTador had returned from court, 
 a large quantity of prefents were received from his Imperial Majefty. 
 
 They confifted of the richeft velvets, fatins, filks, and purfes beau- 
 tifully embroidered. To thcfc were' added large parcels of the bell: 
 
 tea
 
 ( U9 ) 
 
 tea of the country, made up in folid cakes, in the fizc and form of a '79V 
 Dutch chccfe. It is thus, in fome way, baked together, by which ScpteiuUcf 
 means it will never be affedled by air or climate, nor ever lofc its 
 flavour, though kept without any covering whatever. Each of thcfc 
 balls weigh about five pounds. 
 
 His Excellency diftributcd to every gentleman of the fuite his pro- 
 portion of the prefents. Thofe which were peculiarly addrcflcd to 
 their Britannic Majefties, were depofited in the lobby, in the boxes 
 wherein they arrived. 
 
 This morning, at one o'clock, the Ambaffador, accompanied by his Sunday 15. 
 fuite, but unattended by any of his guards or fervants, proceeded to 
 pay a fecond vifit to the Emperor. The obje<5l of this interview was, 
 as we underftood, to make an attempt to open the negotiation, for the 
 purpofe of obtaining that extenfion of commerce fo anxioufly defired 
 by our Eafl India Company. 
 
 His Excellency did not return till near three o'clock ; and, on his 
 arrival, appeared to be very much exhaufted, Mr. Pkimb, the inter- 
 preter, gave, however, fuch a favourable account of the general afpedt 
 of the negotiation, as to elevate the hopes of every one concerned 
 in the ilTiie of it. He mentioned, that the Emperor had, through 
 the medium of the Grand Choulaa, entered upon the buiinefs of the 
 embafly with Lord Macartney ; which, as flir as it went, had alto- 
 gether fucceeded. Thig favourable information appeared to be con- 
 firmed by a fecond cargo of prefents from his Imperial Majefty. 
 They confillcd of large quantities of rich velvets, filks, and fatins, 
 with fome beautiful Chinefe lamps, and rare Porcelain. To thefe 
 were added a number of callibaih boxes of cxquifitc workmanfhip, 
 beautifully carved on the outlide, and ftained with a fcarlet colour, of 
 the utmoft Ibftncfs and delicacy : the infidc of them was black, and 
 ihone like japan. 
 
 His
 
 ( r^o ) 
 
 His Excellency made the fame diftribution as he had before done to 
 the gentlemen of the fuite; while the prefents, addreffed to their Bri- 
 tannic Majeflies, were afligned to the fame apartment which contained 
 thofe of the preceding day. 
 
 The evening of this day was pafled in great mirth and feftivity by 
 the whole fuite, from the very favourable forebodings which they now 
 entertained of the final fuccefs of their important miflion. 
 
 C HAP.
 
 ( ^5' ) 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 The Amhajfador vijited by mandarins on the part of the ILniperor, to in- 
 vite him to court cm the anniverjary of his Imperial Majcfly''s birth- 
 day. The whole fuite attended on tht occafon. The Imperial palace 
 defcribed. Some account of the Emperor. A fuccejfion of prefents. 
 Bufnefs tranfaSled with the Imperial court. Particular prrfent of 
 the "Emperor of China to the King of Great Britain. Dcfcription 
 of theatrical amufmcnts. A Britijh foldier tried by a court-martial^ 
 and punijhed. Leave fehol. 
 
 X HE AmbaiTador received the vifits of feveral mandarins, who >. V ' i 
 came to inform him, that as the follovvins: day was the anniver- ^epttniber, 
 fary of the Emperor's birth-day, his prefencc, and that of the whole 
 embaffy, would be expeded at court. 
 
 This morning, at two o'clock, his Excellency, with the whole of Tuefday 17. 
 the Britifh fuite, fct out for his Imperial Majefly's palace, where we 
 arrived, with much interruption, in about two hours, amidfl an im- 
 mcnfc crowd of fpedators without, and a great concourfe of people 
 within the palace; the latter conliiling of mandarins of all clafTes and 
 diilinclions. 
 
 This palace is built on an elevated fituation, and commands an ex- 
 tcnfive view of the mountainous country that furrounds it. The 
 edifice itlclf is neither lofty or elegant, but very extcnfivej and con- 
 tains a very numerous range of courts, furrounded with porticos^ 
 ornamented with gilding and colours. The gardens extend for feve- 
 ral miles, and are furrounded by a ftrong wall, about thirty feet in 
 
 heights
 
 ( ^s^ ) 
 
 , H^JL^ height. In front of the palace there is a large plain, with a confider- 
 
 September, able lake in the center of it. 
 
 Here we waited feveral hours, till, at length, the approach of the Em- 
 peror was announced, by the proilration of the mandarins, as he advanced. 
 This great pcrfonage was in a very plain palanquin, borne by twenty 
 mandarins of the firft order ; and were it not for that circumftance, he 
 could not have been diftinguilhed from a common mandarin, as he 
 wore no mark or badge of diiT:in6lion, nor any article of drefs fupe- 
 rior to the higher claffes of his fubjecls. The fimplicity of his ap- 
 pearance, it feems, proceeds from that wife policy which diftinguiflies 
 his reign ; as it is a favourite principle of his government to check, 
 as much as poffible, all ufelefs luxury, and to encourage ceconomy 
 among his people. It is from the fame paternal regard for the litua- 
 tion and circumftances of his fubjecfts, that he has fupprefled all public 
 rejoicings on account of his birth-day, in this lefs llourilhing part of 
 his dominions ; from the apprehenfion that the loyal and afFedionate 
 fpirit of the poorer claffes of the people would diftrefs themfclves, in 
 promoting the feftive celebration of the day. This prohibition, how- 
 ever, as ^ve underftood, reached no further than the immediate 
 vicinity of the Imperial refidence; the birth-day c^ the fovereign 
 being obferved with great joy and folemnity through every other 
 part of a grateful empire. 
 
 The Emperor on this day completed the eighty-fifth year of his 
 age, as he was in the fifty-fcventh of his reign. Though he had dark, 
 piercing eyes, the whole of his countenance difcovered the mild traits 
 of benignant virtue, mixed with that eafy dignity of exalted ftation, 
 which refults rather from internal confcioufnefs, than exterior 
 grandeur. 
 
 The appearance of the fuite was exacflly the fame as on the firft day 
 of audience ; and we returned, in an equal (late of embarraffment and 
 fatigue, at one o'clock. A very large quantity of prefents foon fol- 
 lowed
 
 ( ^53 ) 
 •lowed us, confifting of the fame kind of articles a;; had hccn already '7')i- 
 fcnt, but of diHcicnt colours and patterns. There were, however, 7c7^^c-7 
 ^dded, on the prefent occufion, a profufion of fruits and confectio- 
 nary, fiillicicnt to have furniflied a fuccxnion of fine dcferts, if our 
 flay had been pxolongcd to twice tlic period which was deftined for 
 jOur abode at Jchoh 
 
 The Cliinefe poffefs the art of confectionary in a ver)' fuperior de- 
 gree, both as to its tafte, and the variety of its forms and colour^. 
 Their cakes of every kind are admirably made, and more agreeable to 
 the palate than any I remember to have tailed in England, or any otiier 
 country. Their paftry is alfo as light as any I have eaten in Europe, 
 and in fuch a protiigious variety, as the combined efforts of the Euro- 
 pean confcdlioncrs, 1 believe, would not be able to produce. 
 
 This morning the AmbaiTador went to the Imperial palace, but not We-lnef- 
 in the former llyle of parade, to have his audience of leave, as the ^^ ' ' 
 period of our flay in Tartary was verging to a period. 
 
 His Excellency, at the fame time, tranfaded certain official bufi- 
 •ncfs at court, \vbich was faid without refervc at the time, by the 
 gentlemen of the fiijte, to be as follows : 
 
 The Emperor of China refufcd, in the firfl inftanCe, to fign, and of 
 courfe, to enter into any .engiigcment by a written treaty w ith the 
 Crown of Great Britain, or any other nation ; as fuch a condud, on his 
 part, would be contrary to the anci<;nt ufage, and, indeed, an in- 
 fringement of the -ancient conflitutions, of the empire. At tiie fame 
 time he was plcafed to lignify his high rcfpedt for his Britannic 
 Majcfly and the Britilh nation ; and that he felt a flrong difpolition to 
 grant them greater indulgencics than any other European power trading 
 to his dominions ; nor was he unwilling to make Inch a new arrange- 
 ment of the duties payable by Britifli Ihips arriN'ing at Canton, as ap- 
 
 X pcircd
 
 ( '5-+ y 
 
 1793. peared to be a leading o':je6l of the negotiatioiT. At the fame time^ 
 *ieptembe7' however, he fhould be ever att(.p.riv3 to the real kite refls of his own 
 fubjeils, an atom of which he would ne\'er facrificej and fliould, 
 therefore, withdraw his favours to any foreigh nation whenever it 
 might appear to be incompatible with the interefts of his own; or that 
 the E^nglilh fhould, by their condiidt in trade, forfeit their pretentions 
 to any advantages which might be granted them in preference to other 
 nations trading to China. Thefe were the declarations of the^ Em- 
 peror on the occafion, which did not, in his opinion, require any 
 written inftrument or lignature to induce him to realife and fiilfil. 
 
 At the fame time, to prove the high regard and efteem the Emperor 
 of China entertained for the King of Great Britain, his Imperial Ma- 
 jefly delivered, from his own hand, into that of the 'Ambaffador, a 
 very valuable box, containing the miniature pi<fl:ures of all the pre- 
 ceding emperors; to which is annexed, a defcription in verfe by each 
 emperor, defcriptive of himfelf, and the principal features of his go"* 
 verniiient, as well as a line of condudl recommended to their feveral 
 fucceflbrs. 
 
 The Emperor, on prefcnting this gift to the Ambafliidor, fpokc to 
 the following purport : 
 
 *' Deliver this cafkct to the King your mafter, with your own hand»- 
 an.d tell him, though the prefent may appear to be fmall, it is, in my 
 eflimation, the mofl valuable that 1 can give, or my empire can fur- 
 nilh ; for it has been tranfmitted to me through a long line of my 
 predeceflbrs, and is the lafl: token of affed;ion which I had referved 
 to bequeath to my fon and fuccelTor ; as a tablet of the virtues of his 
 anceftors, which he had only to perufe, as I fhould hope, to infpire 
 him with the noble refolution to follow fuch bright examples ; and, as 
 they had done, to make it the grand objedl of his life to exalt the 
 honour of the Imperial throne, and advance the happincfs and prof- 
 perity of his people." 
 
 Such
 
 y-' 
 
 ( '55 ) 
 Such were tlie words dclivcrcJ by ihc Emperor on the occalion, as '"/.v 
 .communicated by Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, and which occaljoncd, Septcjctr: 
 .as may be imagined, no fmdll decree of fpeculation among the gcru 
 .tlemcn of the retinue. 
 
 The AnibafTiior returned to dinner, and foon after repaired again 
 •;to the Imperial palace, with his whole fuite and attendants, to fee a 
 play which was exprcllly performed as a })articular mark of rcfped to 
 ,thc cmbaify. 
 
 This dramatic entertainment was rcprefciUed in one of the inner 
 courts of the palace, on a temporary ikge erected for the purpofe. Tf 
 was decorated >v,ith a profuiion of (ilk, ribbons, and flreamcrs, and 
 illuminated with great i'plendour and elegance. 
 
 The performance confided of a great variety of mock battks and 
 -military engagements J lofty tumbling, as it is exprefled with us, and 
 dancing both on .tlie tight and flack ropes; and in all thefe exercifes 
 that agility was difplayed, which would have done no difcredit to the 
 gymnaftic amufemcnts of Sadler's Wells or x'\ftley's amphitheatre: 
 but the iTcill of the performers was more particularly aftoniflring in 
 the art of balancing, in which they excelled any thing of the kind 
 I had ever feen. By an imperceptible motion, as it appeared, of the 
 joints of their arms and legs, they gave to bafons, jugs, glaffcs, &:c. 
 an apparent power of loco-motion, and produced a progrelFive equili- 
 brium, by which thefe veflels changed their poiitions from one part to 
 another of the bodies of the balancers, in a manner fo extraordinary, 
 that I almofl: fufpefted the corredlnefs of my own fcnfes. 
 
 The fuccefTion of entertainments was concluded by a variety of 
 curious deceptions by flight of hand, which the almoll magical acti- 
 vity of Ercflaw or Comus has never exceeded : and, as a proof of my 
 allertion, lihall mention one of them, which, 1 mufl own, alloniihcd 
 mc, and feemed to have an equal eHedl on the reft of the fpcftators. 
 
 X 2 Thf
 
 ( ^56 ) 
 
 i7<)3- Tli^ performer began by exhibiting a large bafon in every pofTible 
 
 "septembtu pofltion, when he luddenly phiced it on tlie llage with the hollow 
 part downwards, and inftantly taking it up again, difcovered a large 
 rabbir, which efca.ped from the performer, who attempted to catch it, 
 by taking refuge among the fpedators. This deception was perfedly 
 unaccountable to me, as there were no vifible means v/hatever of com- 
 munication, by which it was poflible to convey fo large an animal to 
 the fpot : the Ihige was alfo covered with matting, fo that it could 
 not be conveyed through the floor, which, it that had been the cafe, 
 muft have been difcovered by thofe, and there were many of them,, 
 who were within three yards of the fpot ; befides, the whole difplay 
 of the trick occupied but a few feconds. Several other deceptions of 
 a fimilar kind prolonged our amufement. The whole of the enter- 
 tainment was accompanied by a band of muficians, placed on the 
 it age. 
 
 The theatre was filled with perfons of diilindtion, and formed a- 
 very fplendid appearance. The Ambaflador and his fuite returned 
 about nine o'clock, having been very much gratified by the enter- 
 tainment of the evening. 
 
 Thiirfdaym, At noon fevcral mandarins came to vifit his Excellency; when 
 every individual belonging to the embafly received a pipe and tobacco- 
 bag containing a quantity of that herb for fmoaking. 
 
 In the fcveral vifits which the mandarins of different clafTes paid to 
 the Ambaflador, they never varied in their exterior appearance, and 
 changes of raiment do not fcem to be an objedl of attention in China, 
 as it is, more or lefs, in every part of Europe. Even the court drefs 
 of the mandarins differs very little from their ordinary habiliments. It 
 confifls of a robe that fails down to the middle of the leg, and is drawn 
 round the lower part of the neck with ribbons. On the part which 
 covers the flomach, is a piece of embroidery worked on the garment 
 about fix inches fquarc; and is finilhed in gold or filk of different co- 
 i lours.
 
 ( '57 ) 
 
 lours, according to the rank of the wearer : this badge of diflindion , 'J ^'"^' 
 
 has its counterpart on a parallel p-irt of the back, minutely corrcfpond- Sq)tcti,L.-.i. 
 ing in pattern and diftienlions. In winter, it is generally made of 
 velvet, and its prevailing colour is blue. The fa(h, which, on all 
 other occafions is worn round the waift, is difpenfcd with at court, 
 and the drcfs is left to its own eafe and natural flow. 
 
 As I arti now come to a period when a certain degree of authority 
 was attempted to be afTumed, altogether inconfiftent with the character 
 and privileges of Engliflimcn, and which, I fear, conveyed no favour- 
 able imprellion to the Chmefe of our national charadlcr and cufloms ; 
 I fliall previoufly ftate the orders illued by Lord Macartney, and 
 read to the fhip's companies, and ail perfons of every rank attached 
 to the fuite, about five o'clock in the evening of the 20th day of 
 
 J"iy 1793- 
 
 Sealed andfigncd Macartney. 
 
 *' As the fhips and brigs attendant on the embafly to China arc now 
 likely to arrive in port a few days hence, his Excellency the Ambaf- 
 fador thinks it his duty to make the following obfervations and ar- 
 rangements : 
 
 " It is impofTible that the various important objccfls of the embafTy 
 can be obtained, but through the good will of the Chinefe : that good 
 will may much depend on the ideas which they fhall be induced to 
 entertain of the difpofitionand condudl of the Englifh nation, and they 
 can judge only from the behaviour of the majority of thofe who come 
 amongft them. It muft be confclfed, that the imprcflions hitherto 
 made upon their minds, in confequence of the irregularities com- 
 mitted by Englidimen at Canton, are unfavourable even to the degree 
 of confidcring them as the worft among Europeans -, thefe imprclFions 
 are communicated to that tribunal in the capital, which reports to, and 
 advifes the Emperor upon all concerns with foreign countries. It is 
 
 therefore 
 
 «5
 
 ( '»58 -) 
 
 ^__2]^^ , therefore eilential, by a conduit particularly regular and circumfped:, 
 
 September, to iiTiprefs theni with new, more juji, and more favourable ideas o£ 
 Englilhmen ; and to. Ihew that, even to the loweft oflicer in the fea ot 
 land icrvice, or. in ^ the civil-line, they are capable of maintaining, by 
 example and hy difcipline, due order, fobricty, and fubordination, 
 among their rcTpei^ive inferiors. Though the people in China have 
 not t«e fmallell Ihare in the government, yet it is a maxim invariably 
 purfued by-thei-r 'fuperioi-.s, to fupport the meajicft Chinefe in any 
 tjiffere.nce vvith.a ftrangcx, and if the occafion fliould happen, to avenge 
 bis blood.; of which, indeed, there was a fatal inflance not long fince 
 at Canton, ivhere the gunner of an Englilh vcflel., who had been 
 very innocently thexaufe of the death of a native peafant, was executed 
 tor itj notwithflanding the utmoft united efforts on the part of the 
 Icveral European f^xilories at Canton to fave himj peculiar caution and 
 mildnels mull confequently be obferved in every fort of intercourfe ojr 
 accidental meeting with any the poorcft individual of the countr)'. 
 
 " His Excellency, who well knows that he need -not recommend lo 
 §ir Erafmus Gower to make whatever regulations prudence may dic- 
 tate on the occafion, for the pcrfons under his immediate command., 
 as he hopes Capt. Mackintofia will do for the officers and crew of the 
 Hindoftan, trufts alfo that the propriety and ncceility of fuch regula- 
 tions, calculated to preferve the credit of the Englifli name, and the 
 interell of the mother country in th^fe remote parts, will infure a 
 ileady and clif erful obedience. 
 
 " The fame motives, he flatters himfelf, will operate likewife upon 
 all the perfons immediately connected with, or in the fervice of, the 
 
 .cmbalTy. 
 
 *' His Excellency declares that he Ihall be .ready to encourage and to 
 report favourably hereupon the good condud; of thofe who Ihall be 
 found to deferve it ; fo he will think it his duty, in cafe of mifcondud; 
 Ot difobcdicnce of orders, to report the lame with equal exadinefs, 
 
 and
 
 ( '59 ) 
 and to fufpcnd or Jifmifs tranfgrcirors, as the occafiun may require. ^ ''"^^' 
 Nor, if offence fhould be offered to a Cliinefe, or a inirdcmcanor of Scpteii.Ui. 
 any kind be committed, which may be punilhablc by their laws, will 
 he deem himfelf hound to interfere for the purpofe of.endeavouring to 
 ward offer mitigate their fevcrity. 
 
 " His Excellency relics on Lieutenant-Colonel Ben fon, commandant 
 of his guard, that he will have a ftridt and watchful eye over them ; 
 vigilance, as to their perfonal demeanor, is as requifite in the prefent 
 circumftances, as it is, though from other motives, in regard to the 
 condud; of an enemy in time of war. The guard are to be kept con- 
 ffantly together, and regularly exercifed )n all military evolutions ; nor 
 are any of them to ablent themfelves from on board fliip, or from, 
 whatever place may be allotted them for their dwelling on fliore, with- 
 out leave from his Excellency, or commanding oflicer. None of the 
 mechanics, or fervants, arc to leave the fliip, or ufual dwelling on fliore, 
 without leave froin himfelf, or from Mr. Maxwell ; and his Excel- 
 lency experts, that the gentlemen in his train will fhcw the example 
 of fubordination, by communicating their wifhes to him before they 
 go, on any occafion, from the Ihip, or uiiial dwelling place on fhorc. 
 
 »* No boxes or packages, of any kind, are to be removed from the 
 fliip, or, afterwards, from the place where they iLall . be brought on 
 fliore, without the AmbalTador's leave, or a written order from Mr. 
 Barrow, the comptroller ; fuch order defcribing the nature, number, . 
 and dimcnfions of fuch packages. 
 
 " His Excellency, in the moft earneff manner, rcquefts that no pcr- 
 lon whatever belonging to the fliips- be fuffercd, and he delires that 
 none of his fuite, guard, mechanics, or fervants, prefume to offer for 
 fale, or propofe to purchafe, in the way of traflic, the fmalleff article 
 of merchandize of any kind, or under any pretence whatever, without 
 leave from him prcvioufly obtained. The neceflity of avoiding the 
 leaft appearance of traff.c accompanying an embaffv to Pekin was 
 
 fuch,
 
 ( ^6c ) 
 '79> fuch, as to induce the Eaft India Company to forego the profits of a 
 September, new madict, and deterred theni from (liipping any goods for fale in 
 the Hindortan, as being deftined to attend upon the embaffy, the dig- 
 nity and importance of which, in the prejudiced eyes of the Chinefe, 
 would be utterly lod, and the good confequences expcded from it, 
 even on commercial points, totally prevented, if any adlual tranfadions. 
 though for trifles, for the purpofe of gain, fliould be difcovered 
 amongft any of the perfons concerned in conveying, or attending an 
 Amballador; of which the report would foon infallibly fwell into a 
 general fyftem of trading. From this flricflnefs his Excellency will 
 willingly relax whenei'er fuch advances fliall have been made by him 
 in negotiation as will fecure the objedt of his miflion ; and when a 
 permilTion from him to an European, to difpofe of any particular article 
 of merchandize, Avail be confidered as a favour granted to the Chinefe 
 purchafer. His Excellency is bound to punifli, as fax as in him 
 lies, any the flighteft deviation from this regulation ; he will eafily 
 have it in his power to do fo, in regard to the perfons immediately 
 in his train, or fervice. The difcipline of the navy will render it 
 equally eafy to Sir Erafmus Gower, in refpedt to thofe under his im- 
 mediate command ; and the Eaft India Company have, by their order 
 of the 5th of September, 1792, and by their letter of the 8th of the 
 fame month and year, fully authorized his Excellency to enforce 
 compliance, with the fame regulation, among the officers of the Hin- 
 doflan. A copy of the faid order, and an extra6l from the faid letter, 
 here follow, in order that Captain Mackintofli may communicate the 
 fame to his officers. JHis Excellency depends upon him to prevent any 
 .breach or evafion of the fame among any of his crew.. 
 
 j^i a Court of Dlredlors held on JVednefdaji the ^ih of September, 1792, 
 
 " Refolved, 
 *' That the Right Honourable Lord Vifcount Macartney be au- 
 " thorized to ful'pend, or difmifs the commander, or any, officer of 
 ♦' the Hindoflan^ who Iliall be guilty of a breach of covenants, 03 
 
 " difobedience
 
 ( ^6I ) 
 
 '* difobcdicnce of orders from the Secret Committee, or from lus n-^v 
 ■" Excellency, during the continuation of tiie embaffy to Chintx. September, 
 
 (Signed) - W. RAMSEY, Sccrctaiy." 
 
 lE.xtra£ifrom the Chairman and Deputy Chairman s Letter to Lord Ma- 
 cartney, dated the Hth of September, 1792. 
 
 " The Secret Committee having given orders to Captain MackintoH:, 
 " of the Hindoftan, to put himfclf entirely under ymir Exccllemy's 
 *' direction, as long as may be neccfl'aiv tor the purpofe of the cm- 
 " balfy, we have inclofed a copy of his inflrudtions, and of the 
 *' covenants which he has entered into, together witli an account of 
 *' his private trade, and that o{ his officers : there is no intention 
 *' whatever, on the part of the court, to permit private trade in any 
 *' other port, or place, than Canton, to which the fhip is ultimately 
 dcftined, unlel's your Excellency is fatisfied that fuch private trade 
 will not prove of detriment to the dignity and importance annexed 
 to the embaffy, or to the confcqucnces expcdted therefrom, in which 
 cafe your confcnt in writing becomes necelfary to authorize any 
 commercial tranfaftion by Captain Mackintofli, or any of his 
 officers, as explained in the inftrucftions from the Secret Committee. 
 But as we cannot be too guarded with refpcd: to trade, and the con- 
 lequences which may rellilt from any attempt for that purpofe, we 
 hereby authorize your Excellency to fufpend, or difmifs the com- 
 ** mander, or any officer of the Hindoftan, who Ihall be guilty of a 
 ** breach of covenants, or difobcdicnce of orders trom the Secret 
 " Committee, or from your Excellency, during the continuance of 
 *' the prefent cmbaify." 
 
 " His Excellency takes this opportunity of declaring alfo, that how- 
 ever determined his fenfe of duty makes him to forward the objects of 
 liis miffion, and to watch, detect, and punilh, as fir as in his power, 
 any crime, difobcdicnce of orders, or other behaviour tending to cn- 
 
 Y danger. 
 
 
 <(
 
 ( ^62 ) 
 
 ^793- danger, or delay the fuccefs of the prefcnt undertaking, or to bring 
 ^~~^^gr. difcredit on the Enghfh charader, or occafion any difliculty, or cm- 
 barraiTment to the cmbaily : {o in the hke manner fhall he feel himfelf ' 
 happy in being able at all times to report and reward the merit, as well 
 as to promote the interefr, and indulge the wiflies, of any perfon who 
 has accompanied him on this occafion, as much as may be confident 
 with the honour and welfare of the public. 
 
 •' la cafe of the abfence or engagements of his Excellency, at any par- 
 ticular moment, application may be made in his room to Sir George 
 ^Staunton, whom his Majefty was pleafed to honour with a commifTiori 
 of miniiler plenipotentiary, to ad: on fuch occafions." 
 
 Given on board his Majejly''sjhipthe LioTiy 
 the i6th day of July, 1793. 
 
 By his Excellency's Command, 
 
 ,«j. jx ACHESON MAXWELL, Ic . ■ 
 
 (bip-necl) ' ^Secretaries. 
 
 ^ ^ ^ EDWARD WINDER. J 
 
 Having thus given at large, and from the firft authority, the whole 
 of thofe regulations which were framed, and with great good fenfe and 
 true policy, to forward the objeds of the -embaffy, I fliall now pro- 
 ceed to ftate certain circumftances, which do not altogether appear to 
 be confident with, if they may not be confidered by fome, as violations 
 ©f, them. 
 
 It was now hinted to all the fervants of the Ambafiador, that they 
 w ere hereafter to confidcr themfelves as fubjed to military law,, and 
 that the corporeal punifliment ufual in the army would be applied to 
 them, if they fhould refufe to obey the commands of any of their 
 fuperiors in the fuite. Such an idea, as may be fuppofcd, occafioned 
 no fmall alarm, as well as abhorrence in the minds of thofe who would 
 be affeded by a regulation fo contrary to every principle of right or 
 
 juftice i
 
 '79!- 
 
 ( i6j ) 
 jufticc : and when they were at fuch a .lillancc from tlicir own 
 happy country, that any one injured hy inch an act of tyranny, siimiil^ibr 
 might never again return to the protection of that power which would 
 avenge it. 
 
 To the honour of Sir George Staunton, I liavo the fatisfadion to 
 fay, from the general report in the palace, that he reprobated, m 
 very fevere terms, the prt)po(ition of a mcafure i'o fubverfivc ot 
 thofe privileges, which, as Englilhmen, we carried with us into tlie 
 heart of Tartary ; and which no power of the embafly had a legal 
 right to invade. 
 
 This flrange extenfion of military difciplinc was certainly pro- 
 pofed to Lord Macartney by fome olFicious perlbns in the fuite; but 
 the experiment, very happily for all parties, was never attempted to 
 be made. 
 
 When Lieutenant Colonel Benfon ordered a court-martial to be held 
 on one of his foldiers, and faw the fentence of it carried into execution, 
 he did that which he had a legal power to do, however indilcreet the 
 exercife of it might be: but in the verge of an embaffy, which, within 
 its own circle, carries the liberties of Englilh fubjects to the rcmoteff 
 regions of the globe, any attempt to infringe them, deferves the ieverell 
 reprobation. 
 
 This morning, James Cootie, a private in the infantry, who com- 
 pofed a part of the Ambalfador's guards, was reported to the com- 
 manding officer, for having procured, by the aflilfance of a Chinefe 
 i'oldier, a fmall quantity of famtchco, a fpirituous liquor already de- 
 fcribed: for which offence he was immediately confined, and foon 
 after tried by a court-martiul, confiiling of a certain number of hij 
 comrades, and a corporal as prefident ; and the fentence pronounced 
 on this unfortuuuve man was approved by Lieutenant-Colonel Ben- 
 fon. 
 
 Y 2 In
 
 C ^64 ) 
 
 ^793- In confeqiicnce of this fentence, all the Britiili foldieiy were drawn 
 
 Septciubtr. up ill the outer court of the palace; and, after obferv'ing all the forms- 
 ufual on fiich occafions, the culprit was tied tip to one of the pillars 
 of the great portico, and, in the prefence of a great number of the- 
 Chinefe, he received the punithment of hxty lalhes, adminiflered with 
 no common feverity. 
 
 The mandarins, as well as thofe of the inferior clafTes who were, 
 prefent, exprcfled their abhorrence at this proceeding, while fome of 
 them declared, that they could not reconcile this condudl in a people, 
 who profeffed a religion, which they reprefented to be fuperior to all 
 others, in enforcing fentiments of benevolence, and blending the duties 
 of juftice and of mercy. One of the principal mandarins, who knew 
 a little of the Englilh language, expreffed his own fentiments, and 
 thofe of his br-ethren-, by faying, '*- Englifliman too much cruel,, too 
 much bad.*' 
 
 Of the nature of the foldier's offence, I do not pretend to determine;- 
 nor Ihall I obfcrve on the neceflity of applying the feverity of military 
 dilcipline on the occaiion ; thefe things are not within the fcope of 
 my information or experience : but a little common-fcnfe alone is 
 neceffary to determine on the impolicy of exhibiting a kind of punifh- 
 ment which is unknown in China, and abhorrent to the nature of the 
 people, in the prefence of fo many of them ; as from their numbers, 
 and our general ignorance of the language, it was impolTible to ex- 
 plain or juftify it to them, by the policy of our laws. Whether this 
 punilhrnent was neceflary to the dilcipline or good order of the troops, 
 I do not, -as I before obferved, propofe to confider ; but of this I am 
 fure, that it was by no means neceffary to make it a public fpedacle, 
 and to rifque the unfavourable imprelfions which it might, and, in- 
 deed, did make in the n -"nds of the Chine("c, before whom it was- 
 yurpofcly exhibited,. 
 
 This
 
 ( 1^5 ) 
 
 This mcafurc, as I have rcaCon to believe, was very mucli canvafTcd at '^'' 
 the time when it was carried into execution, and juflified on the policy Scpicmber. 
 of convincing the Chincfc of our love of order, and the rigour wc 
 employed in punifhinp,- any infringement of it. That it had, as I fuf- 
 pedled it would have, the contrary effcdl:, the looks, gefturcs, and 
 expreffions of the Chinefe present on the occafion, are unanfweruble 
 teftimonies. 
 
 Sir Erafmus Gower, however, as I was informed on my return to: 
 the Lion, went a ifep further at Chufui, when flic lay at anchor 
 off that iflund, in the Yellow Sea. The facft, to which I allude, is. 
 known to every one at that time oh board the fliip. 
 
 A Chinefe had come on board the Englifli man of war, from 
 Chufan, and brought with him a fmall bottle of famtchoo, a kind of 
 dram, in exped:ation of exchanging it with the failors for fome Euro- 
 pean article. A difcovery, however, being made of his defign, Sir 
 Erafmus Gower ordered him to be feized and punilhcd by the boat- 
 fwain's mate, with twelve ladies ; and to add to the bad effedls of 
 fuch a condud:, in the prefence of a great many of the Chinefe, who 
 were then on board. 
 
 This is one of thofe irreconcileable circumftances which occailonally 
 happened in the progrefs and completion of this embally : becaule an.- 
 application to the mandarins would have had all the effeds, which, 
 eould be dcfircd, in redrefllng the grievance, and aflumed the Ibrm. 
 of a proper and regular proceeding. 
 
 C M A- F.
 
 ( i66 ) 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Leave the city ofjehol. Defcripiion of two rocks in its neighbourhood. 
 Circumjiances of the journey. Arrive at Pckin. Arrangements 
 made there. The remainder of the prefents prepared to be fen t to the 
 Emperor. Sicknefs prevails among the foldiers. "The Ambajjlidor 
 at I ends his Imperial Majefy . Brief account of his palace. Further 
 arrangements refpedling the hotfehold of the cmbajfy. Prefents to the 
 TLmperor and the Grand Choulaa. The Emperor goes to Teumcn-man' 
 veumen to fee the prefents. His perfon and drefs particularly defer ibed. 
 Prefents receivedfrom court fur their Britannic Majefies. Circum' 
 (lances concerning thofe which had been fent to the Emperor. Re- 
 port prevails that the cmbaj[v is to leave Pekin. 
 
 I ^^^^' J It was notified by orders, iffued this morning, that the embafly was 
 Tu''w"^2o *° 1^'^^ Jehol on the morrow, to proceed to Pekin, where the final 
 ilFue of it would be known and fettled. 
 
 In the evening, the whole of the heavy baggage was fent off for 
 Pekin. At nine there was a very heavy ftorm of thunder, lightning, 
 and rain, which continued, without any intermifiion, til] four o'clock 
 of the following morning. 
 
 Wednef- This morning, at eight o'clock, the Britifli embafly took their leave 
 ^^y *'• of O^Q city ofjehol, after a llirid: confinement of fourteen days ; as the 
 
 liberty, with which we had been flattered foon after our arrival, had 
 
 never been granted. 
 
 We palfcd the Emperor's pagoda at nine o'clock, \\ here we faw an, 
 
 Ambaffador and his fuitc, from the King of Cochin China, refrelhing 
 
 I themfclves.
 
 ( '67 ) 
 
 ■thcmfclvcs. It is an annual vi(U to pay tribute from that Prince to '793- 
 
 the Emperor of China. September. 
 
 The confiifion and fohcitudc which attended the entry into Jehol, 
 prevented mc from giving a defcription of the two rocks, which arc 
 among the moil extraordinary objcds I have ever feen or read of; 
 and mufl not he palfcd hy wiiliout fuch a particular defcription, as it 
 is in my power to give of them. 
 
 The firfl is an immcnfc pillar, or column of folid rock, which is 
 feen from the palace, occupied by the embalfy at Jchol, at the dif- 
 tance, as it appeared to me, of about four miles. It is fituated on the 
 pinnacle of a large mountain, and near the verge of it : from which it 
 rifes, in an irregular manner, to the height of one hundred feet. Its 
 bafe is fmall, but it gradually thickens towards the top ; and fron> 
 fevcral of its projeding parts ifl'ues ftreams of the finefl water. 
 
 The upper part of this enormous rock, which is rather flat, appears 
 to be covered with flirubs and verdure ; but as it is abfolutely inaccefli- 
 ble, tliere is no poflibility of knowing the kind of plants which crown 
 it. When its own individual height is conlider<;d, and added to the 
 eminence where nature, or, perhaps, fome convulfion of the elements, 
 has placed it, the paffenger in the valley below cannot look up to h 
 without an equal degree of horror and amazement. It is eftcemed, and 
 u ith great propriety by the Chinefe, as among the firlt natural curiolitics- 
 of their country ; and is known by the name of Panfuialhaung. 
 
 The other rock, or rather clufter of rocks, is alfo a very flupendous 
 objed:!:, and ftands on the fummit of a very grand, though not a fertile, 
 mountain. They are alfo in the form of pillars, and appear, except in 
 one particular point of view, to be a folid rock ; though they are 
 actually feparated from each other, by an interval of feveral t'tet. 
 Their height rifes to near two hundred feet, as I undcrfland from, a 
 corred mathematical admcafurcment. 
 
 OppcCtc
 
 I i68 ) 
 
 Oppofite to the mountain which forms the bafe, rifes another of a 
 fimilar form, which Hopes with a more gentle dechvity, down to a 
 charming valley, that is formed by them, and is itfelf watered by a 
 pretty rivulet, abounding in fine trout. 
 
 In the courfe of this afternoon we arrived at the Imperial palace of 
 Callachottueng, where we had the misfortune to lofe Jeremiah Reid, 
 one of the royal artillery, who died of the bloody flux, with which he 
 had been affl idled but a very few days. Several men belonging to the 
 military detachments were attacked with the fame complaint. 
 
 Thurfclay22. This morning, at one o'clock, the body of the deceafed foldier was 
 removed to the next village, to remain there till our arrival, to receive 
 the interment which was due to him. This meafure was fuggefted by 
 the mandarin, who expreffed great apprehenfion leil the circumftance 
 iliould reach the Emperor, and awaken his alarm refpedting any con- 
 tagious dilorder. 
 
 At fix o'clock the embaffy continued its route, and at the fmall vil- 
 lage of Quangchim, where it flopped to breakfaft, the body of our 
 deceafed companion was interred with military honours. 
 
 In the courfe of this morning intelligence was received by the man- 
 darin, Van-Tadge-In, that his Imperial Majefty had left Jehol, on his 
 return to Pckin : he, therefore, requefied the Ambaffador and his train 
 to exert themfelves in making two flages without halting, that the 
 palaces might be left to receive the attendants of the Emperor. 
 
 In confequence of this unexpeded rcquifition, we arrived, after a 
 very fatiguing journey, at the town of VVaungchauyeng, in the vicinity 
 .of the great wall, of which fi:upcndous objcdt 1 took another and a lalt 
 view ; but without any novelty of imprcfiion, or the acquifition of an 
 additional circumltancc concerning it. 
 
 At
 
 ( ^''^9 ) 
 At a very early hour we continued our route ; the air was cokl and '7';3- 
 piercing, and wc breakfiiflcd at a place called CaungcluuTifau ; after Scptchbci. 
 which we pafTed a prodigious number of carts, containing the Vaw- " °" ^^^-^' 
 peror's baggage. Arrived at three o'clock at Cubacouoo, as the ftation 
 yf the day. 
 
 We proceeded on our journey at four in the morning, by thcaifill- Tucfdii 24. 
 ance of a very bright moon, and took our firft meal at the to\\n of 
 Chanchin ; our fccond regale was taken at Mecucang, and wc their 
 proceeded to Whiazovv, the laft itage of the day. 
 
 Breakfaft was this morning provided for the cmbalTy in the barn- Wcinei'- 
 yard of a fmall village ; and the journey of the day was finiihed at ^^ *'* 
 Nanfhiihee. There I was I'urprized by the fight of fevcral fields of 
 turnips of an excellent quality. 
 
 This day finiflied our returning jom-ncy from Tartary, which, as Thurfciay:6. 
 k was by the fame route that conduced us thither, and offered no 
 novelty that dcferved attention, I have difpatched, with little more 
 than the names of thofe places where we flopped for rcfrcdiment, or 
 repofe. After a breaklaft at Chingcho, which we found lefs plentiful 
 than on former occafions, wc arrived early in the afternoon at Pckin, 
 and proceeded to the palace of the JSritilh AmbafTador. 
 
 His Excellency employed a great part of this morning in examining Friday 27; 
 the feveral arrangements w hich had been made in the palace during 
 his abfencc; the whole of which was favoured with his approbation. 
 The gentlemen of the fuitc xrlfo received their particular baggage in 
 their refpcdive apartments, and the final adjuftment and diftribution 
 of the different parts of the palace was fettled. 
 
 In the principal room of the Ambaflador's apartments, the ftatc 
 canopy, brought from England, was immediately put up. It was 
 made of flowered crimfbn fatin, with tcftoons and curtains, enriched 
 
 • Z with
 
 ( '70 ) 
 with fringes of gold. On the back part of it the arms of Great Bri- 
 tain appeared in the richeft embroidery ; the floor beneath it was 
 fpread with a beautiful carpet, on which were placed five chairs of 
 ftate, ofthe fame materials as the canopy, and fringed with gold. 
 The center chair immediately under the coat of arms was elevated on 
 a platform above the reft, to which there was an afcent of two fteps. 
 The whole had been arranged with great tafte in England, and, in its 
 prefent fituation, made a very fuperb appearance, in every refpedl fuited 
 to the occafion for which it was ere(fted. At the other extremity of 
 the apartment, oppofite to the canopy, were hung the whole length 
 portraits of their Britannic Majeftics; fo that this chamber wanted no 
 decoration appropriate to the exterior of diplomatic dignity. 
 
 Thefe difpofitions being compleated, and in a manner equally 
 fuited to the fplcndor of the embaffy, as to the individual convenience 
 of thofe who compofed it, nothing remained to perfed; the domcftic 
 eftabliflament, but the regulation of the different tables to be provided 
 for the feveral departments of the houfehold ; which it was thought 
 proper to delay till the arrival of the Emperor in Pekin. 
 
 Captain Mackintolli propofed to fet off on the Monday to join his 
 fliip, the Hindofban, now lying at Chufan, and to proceed to Canton, 
 there to take in his cargo for England, having feen, as he conceived, 
 a favourable commencentent of this important embaffy, in which his 
 maimers, the Eaft India Company, had fuch a predominant intereft. 
 
 Saturday 28. This day the Emperor of China returned to the Imperial palace in 
 Pekin;, and his arrival was announced by a grand difcharge of artil- 
 lery. 
 
 The occupations of this day in the palace of the Ambaffador were 
 
 entirely confined to writing letters for England, of which Capt, 
 
 Mackintofli was to^ take the charge; it then being conlidered by 
 
 Lord Macartney as a fettled arrangement with the court of Pekin, 
 
 4 that
 
 ( '7' ) 
 
 that the Englifh emhafly fliould remain in that city during the winter, i79'^. 
 to carry on the important negotiations with vvliich it was entruftcd. ^u^Jiibcr' 
 
 His Excellency received the vifits of feveral mandarins. Certain Sunday 29. 
 packages defigncd for the Emperor were prepared to be prefented to 
 his Majefty : they confiftcd of fuperfinc broad and other cloths of 
 various kinds of Briiilli manufa<fl:ure. 
 
 In confcqucnce of the ficknefs that prevailed among the foldicrs Monday 30. 
 belonging to the embaflV, it was thought expedient to eftablifli an 
 hofpital for their more fpcedy cure, as well as to feparate the invalids 
 from thofe who were in health and capable of duty. Dr. Gillan and 
 Dr. Scott were accordingly defired to examine a range of buildings be- 
 hind the AmbafTador's apartments, with an open area beyond it, and 
 on the report of thofe gentlemen, it was determined that they fliould 
 be formed into an hofpital. Accordingly feveral arrangements took 
 place, to render it comfortable to thofe who were under the neceffity 
 of taking up an occallonal abode in it. At this time, of the fifty men 
 which compofed the guards of the embafly, eighteen were in fuch a 
 ftate as to require the attentive care and (kill of the phyfician. 
 
 A mandarin came from the Emperor to requefl: that the ordnance oaober, 
 prelents might be immediately fent to the palace of Yeu men-many eu- 
 mcn, where they were to be proved and examined : but the Chinefe 
 thought themfelves equal to the talk of proof and examination ; for 
 the Britilh artillery loldiers were never employed, as was expc<flcd, to 
 dilplay their fuperior Ikill in the fcience of engineering and gunnery. 
 
 The chariots, &c. were alfo removed to the fame place, and the 
 fadler and carpenters belonging to the embaily, with fome afllftant 
 mechanics, were fent thither to unpack and hang them on their car- 
 riages : this -was done, but the workmen were not permitted to adJuH: 
 them fully for prefentation ; and came back in the evening to Pekin 
 without receiving orders to return to complete their work, and explain 
 
 Z 2 the 
 
 Tucfday i.
 
 ( ^72 ) 
 ^ [/^^_, ^'^^ mode of applying the different machines, under their diredlion, to 
 o.%ber. the refpective ufes for which they were defigned. 
 
 v/ednefdayz. The Ambafflidor received a formal intimation to wait on the Em- 
 peror as to-morrow; when it was hoped and anxioufly expeded that 
 tb.e final ratifications w^ould take place between the miniflers of the 
 two courts, and prepare the way for entering upon the projected 
 negotiation, from which fo many advantages were expedled to be 
 derived to the commerce of Great Britain. 
 
 The fick were this day removed to that part of the palace which had 
 been fitted up as an hofpital. 
 
 Another package of prefents was opened and examined preparatory 
 to their being fent to his Imperial Majefty. 
 
 Thurfday 3. The AmbafTador, in obedience to the requifition of yeflerday, went 
 in a private manner to the Emperor's palace ; where bufinefs was 
 tranfacfted between his Excellency and the oliicers of flate j and it was 
 a report among the Englilh fuite, but on what foundation I cannot 
 tell, that the requilitions of the Britifli Minifter were fubmitted to the 
 conlideration of the Imperial Council. This conference lafted two 
 hours, but the refuit of it was not, as may be fuppofed, a matter of 
 general communication; but there were no apparent reafons to fuppofe 
 that it* was not favourable to the fuccefs of the embalTy. 
 
 A-s I had this day attended the AmbafTador, I fliall juft mention 
 what I faw of the Imperial palace, which will be comprifed in a very 
 few lines. 
 
 It is fituated in the center of the city, and furrounded by a wall 
 about twenty feet in height, which is covered with plaiffer painted 
 of a red colour, and the whole crowned or capped with green 
 varniflied tiles. It is laid to occupy a fpace that may be 
 
 about
 
 ( '73 > 
 about fcvcn Englifli miles in tircumfcrcncL', and is fiirroiindecl i__jj_l_ 
 by a kind of gravel walk : it contains a vail range of gardens, October, 
 fidl, as 1 was informed, of all thofe artilicial beauties, which ile- 
 corate the gardens of China. 1 can only f«y, that the entrance to ti:e 
 pakicc is by a very flrong ftonc gateway, which fupports a building ot 
 two Itories : the interior court is fpacious, and the range of building 
 that fronts the gateway rifes to the height of three flories, and each of 
 them is ornamented with a balcony or projediing gallery, whofe rail- 
 ing, paliiadoes, and pillars, are enriched with gilding: the roof is 
 covered with yellow Ihining tiles, and the body of the edifice is 
 plaiftcred and painted with various colours. This uuter court is the 
 only part of this palace which I had an opportunity of feeing, and 'n 
 a fine example of Chinefe architccSture. The gate is guarded by a 
 large body of foldiers, and a certain number of mandarins of the 
 rirll clais are always in attendance about it. 
 
 Of the magnifi^cent and fplcndid apartments this palace contains for 
 private ufe or public fervice ; of its gardens appropriated to plealure, 
 or for the fole produrtion of fruit and flowers, of which report faiJ 
 ib much, i am not authorifed to fay any thing, as my view of the 
 whole was very confined ; but, though I am ready to acknowledoe 
 that the palace had fomething impofing in its appearance, when com_ 
 pared with the diminutive buildings of the city that furround it, I 
 could fee nothing that difpofed me to believe the extraordinary ac- 
 counts which I had heard and read of the wonders of the Imperial 
 refidence of Pekin. 
 
 It cannot be fuppofed for a moment, that thofe who had no other Friday ±. 
 concern in the embaffy, than as a part of the retinue necelTary. for its 
 exterior conduct and appearance, Ihould be informed of any of the 
 official circumftances of it ; they could, therefore, only judge of its 
 progrefs from the general arrangements which were made concerning 
 its domeflic cftablilhment. It was, however, with particular fatis- 
 flidlion that the following dircdions were this day received from the 
 5 Amballador, 
 
 //
 
 »793- 
 
 V ' 
 
 O<flober. 
 
 ( r7+ ) 
 
 Ambaflador, relative to the future order and difpofition of the tables 
 for the different departments of the houfehold; as an attention to 
 domeftic bufinefs feemed to announce his Excellency's opinion con- 
 cerning the permanency of our refidence atPekin; and, of courfe, 
 an entire difpofition in the court of China to give the negotiation every 
 advantage that might be derived from freq^uent conference and delibe- 
 rate confultation. 
 
 The order of the tables was as follows : 
 
 The table of the Ambaflador was ordered for himfelf alone ; with 
 two covers for gentlemen of the fuite, who were to be invited in daily 
 fucceflion to dine with him. 
 
 The next in precedence was that of Sir George Staunton, at which 
 he was to be accompanied by Mr. Maxwell, one of the fecretaries, 
 Dodlor Gillan, Captain Mackintofli, while he remained at Pekin, 
 Mr. Barrow, and Maflcr Staunton. The table of Lieut. Col. Benfon 
 was to be attended by the Lieutenants Parifli and Crewe, Dr. Scott, 
 Mefirs. Hickey, Baring, Winder, Alexander, and Dr. Dinwiddle. 
 
 The foregoing difpofition of the houfehold commenced on this day ; 
 but it was thought proper to continue the Chinefe difhes till the kitchen 
 in the palace was completed, when a certain proportion of Englifli 
 cookery was to be blended with that of the country. To complete 
 the table arrangements, the chells containing the fervice of plate were 
 removed to the apartments of the Ambafliidor, in order to be prepared 
 for general ufe. 
 
 The cabinets of Britiili manufadlure were removed by Chinefe 
 porters to the Imperial palace. 
 
 Saturday J. A large quantity of plated goods, hardware, and cutlery, were 
 
 unpacked at Sir George Staunton's apartments, a confiderable quantity 
 
 of
 
 ( ns ) 
 
 of which was damaged. There were alfo feveral of Argand's lamp";, "'793- 
 with a great variety of watches, trinkets, jewellery, &c. &:c. The OAobtr. 
 whole of this cargo was equally divided between the Eriiperor and the 
 Grand Choulaa. 
 
 The carpenters with feveral afliftants were fent to Yeumen-manycu- 
 mcn, to clean and complete the carriages, and alfo to fct up the model 
 of the Royal Sovereign, an Englifh firft-rate man of war. 
 
 The Emperor himfelf came to the palace; and, after he had takeir 
 a view of the prefents, his Majefty was pleafed to order eight ingots 
 of filvcr to be given to each pcrfon ; which were inftantly received. 
 
 The account I have given of the pcrfon of the Emperor was frona 
 a partial view as he was feated in a p.danquin ; I fliall, there- 
 fore, repeat the more particular defcription of him, which was givea 
 by the fix Englifla artificers who were employed in fitting up and 
 arranging the prefents, when he came to view them, and .\1io were 
 the immediate objects of the Imperial generofity which has jull: beca 
 mentioned. 
 
 The Emperor is about five feet ten inches in height, and of a flcn- 
 der but elegant form ; his complexion is comparatively fair, though his 
 eyes are dark; his nofe is rather aquihne, and the whole of his coun- 
 tenance prefents a perfed: regularity of fcaturei,, which, by no means,, 
 announce the great age he is laid to have attained : his pcrfon is at- 
 tracting, and his deportment accompanied by an afi-ability, which, 
 without lelTcning the dignity of the prince, evinces the amiable cha- 
 radter of the man. 
 
 His drefs confiflcd of a loofe robe of yellow filk, a cap of black, 
 velvet with a red ball on the top, and adorned with a peacock's feather, 
 which is the peculiar diftindlion of mandarins of thw firil clafs. He 
 wore filk boots embroidered with gold, and a fafli of blue filk girded. 
 his vvaiil. 
 
 As
 
 ( 176 ) 
 
 As to tlic opinion which his Imperial Majefly foniied of the pre. 
 fcnts, \\c could not learn, as he never communicated it, at leaft, to 
 any of thofc mandarins, by whom it would have been conveyed to the 
 palace of the Britilli cmbalfy. We only knew, at this time, that the 
 two camera obfcuras were returned, foolilhly enough, as more fuited 
 to jhe amu.femc^it of children, than the information of men of fcience. 
 
 A large number of bales, containing various kinds 'of broad and 
 narrow cloths of Englilh manufad:ure, together with a conliderable 
 cjiiantity of camlets, two barrel organs, with the remainder of fuch 
 prefents as were not damaged, were removed from the palace by the 
 Chinefe employed on thefe occalions. Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, 
 fometimes accompanied the prefents to explain the nature and appli- 
 cation of them, or performed tliat office to the mandarins, previous to 
 their departure. 
 
 As it now was become a matier of certainty that the embafly would 
 remain for fome time at Pekin, the fuperb faddles which had been 
 brought over for his Excellency, and Sir George Staunton, were un- 
 packed and got ready, with all the elegant furniture, for immediate 
 
 A very large quantity of prffents were fent from the Emperor to 
 their Britannic Majeflies, iiccompanied with others for the AmbalTador 
 and his fiiite ; which were, as ufual, diftributed among them, 
 
 Sunday 6, At uooa his Excellency went, with no other attendants than two 
 
 gentlemen of his retinue, and one fervant, to vifit the Emperor ; but, 
 on his arrival at court, he very much alarmed the gentlemen with him 
 by fainting aw ay : he was immediately conveyed home, and continued 
 to be very ill during the remainder of the day. The intended interview, 
 therefore, was not cffcded in confequence of his fuddcn indifpo- 
 ^ition. 
 
 la
 
 ( 177 ) 
 In the forenoon of this day the fcrvants of the cmhaffy were fummon- 
 cd to the apartments of Sir George Staunton, and the foldiers to fhofe 
 of Lieut. Col. Bcnfon ; when each perfon received four pieces of filk, 
 four pieces of dongaree, (a fort of coarfc nankeen) and a junk of fil- 
 ver, being a fquarc foHd piece of that metal, weighing fixtecn ounces, 
 as a prefent from his Imperial Majei^^y. 
 
 The gentlemen and mechanics were difmiffed from tlieir attendance 
 at the palace of Yeumcn-manyeumen ; for, as all the optical, mecha- 
 nical, and mathematical inllruments were removed trum thence, their 
 prefence was no longer necelTary. Befides, feveral of thefe prelents, 
 when a trial of them was made before the mandarins, were found, to 
 fail in the operations and powers attributed to them ; and others 
 of them did not excite that furprife and admiration in the breads of the 
 Chinefe philofophers, which Dr. Dinvviddic and Mr. Barrow ex- 
 ped:ed, who immediately determined upon the ignorance that prevailed 
 in China, and the grofs obflinacy of the people. 
 
 A report was in circulation this day througliout the palace, that the 
 embafly was to quit Pckin in the beginning of the week : a circum- 
 flance which was fo contrary to the general expedlation, that it did not 
 at firft meet with the credit, which it was afterwards found to deferve. 
 
 A a CHAP.
 
 ( 178 ) 
 
 793- 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Orders iJJ'iied for the fuite to prepare for an hnmediate departure from 
 Pekin. The Emperor refufes to alloiv of any delay. Great confii- 
 
 fion occajioned by this ftidden departure. The embajjy leaves Pekin, 
 Returns to T'ong-tchew. Order of the junks which are to take 
 the embaffy to Canton. Pyifficulties refpedling the baggage. Ihe 
 
 junks enter a canal. Defcription of it. Circuniftances of the voyage. 
 Fieiv and cultivation of the country. The Chineje pof defcribed, 
 Pafs through fever al large cities. A general account of them. 
 
 ^i^°d^-' -*■ ^^ carpenters were employed in ftrengthening the cafes that con- 
 tained the prefents from the Emperor of China to their Britannic 
 Ma jellies. 
 
 In the afternoon the report of yefterday was confirmed by an order, 
 iffued by the Ambaflador, to the whole fuite to prepare for departure 
 from Pekin, on Wednefday. Our furprize at fuch unexped:ed in- 
 tclhgence may be readily conceived, but the mortification which 
 appeared throughout the palace, on the occafion, was at leaft equal to 
 the aftonifliment : for, iii one moment, as it were, all the domeftic 
 arrangements, which had been formed with every attention to indi- 
 vidual comtort and repofe, were overthrown — our fatiguing pilgrimage 
 was to be renewed, and with all the humiliation that accompanies a 
 forced fubmiffion to peremptory power, and the painful dclpondency 
 which arifes from the fudden annihilation of fanguine and well- 
 grounded hope. But, though we might, in the firrt: moments of 
 lurprize, be difpofed to feci fomething for ourfelvcs, fuperior con- 
 liderations foon fuccecded, and we forgot the trifle of perfonal 
 inconvenience, in the failure of a political meafure, which had been 
 
 purfued
 
 ( '79 ) 
 purfued with To much labour, hazard, and perfcvcraucc ; had been 1791. 
 lupported with fuch enormous cxpcncc, and to which our country oao'jcr. 
 looked with eager cxpedtation, for the aggrandizement of its commer- 
 cial interefts. There was, however, no remedy ; and nothing now could 
 be done but to ufc every endeavour to prolong the period afTigncd to 
 the departure of the cmbalTy, that there might be fuflicient time to 
 make the necelfary preparations for leaving I'ekin w'ith convenience, 
 and that the Ambaffador might not appear to be turned out of the 
 metropolis of a country, wliero he had rquefcntcd the crown of Great 
 Britain. 
 
 For thefe reafuns', and they were, it muft be acknowledged,' of very 
 great importance, the attendant mandarin was rcqucf}:cd to flate to the 
 prime miniflcr the impofribility of our departure at fo Ihort a notice, 
 not only without very great inconvenience, but abfolute injury ; as 
 it would be impofhble to pack up and arrange the baggage, i3cc. of the 
 Ambaflluior and his fuite, in a manner to tranfport it with fafcty, in f'> 
 lliort a time as was then allotted for that purpofe. 
 
 This commiffion he readily undertook to execute ; and, in the even- 
 ing, he returned with the permiflion of the Grand Choulaa, to delay 
 the departure of the Britilh embafly till Friday, which would have 
 given time fullicicnt to have made every nccelTary preparation. 
 
 The mandarin came with a counter-order of the permiiTion of ycfler- Tuefdny 8. 
 day, from the Emperor himlelf, who exprefsly commanded the Am- 
 baffador, and all bis retinue, to quit Pckin on the neXt day. They 
 were again thrown into a renewed ftate of confufion, which I Ihall 
 not attempt to dcfcribe. 
 
 It was reported in the palace, T^y the Chincfe, that the Emperor 
 having confidered the bufmcfs as completed between the two courts, 
 cxpreffed his furprize that the Englifli miniftcr fhould wifli toiiuke an 
 unncceffary flay at Pekin, and not be eager to return to his own coun- 
 try. His Imperial Majefty was alfo faid to be alarmed at the i^um- 
 
 A a 2 ber
 
 
 ( ^80 ) 
 
 1793. ber of lick pcrfons in the retinue of the embafly, and to apprehend 
 Oclobcr. tlic communication of a contagious diforder among his fubjeds. 
 It was alfo reported, that when the brafs mortars were tried in the 
 prefence of the Emperor, his Majefty admired the {kill and ingenuity 
 of thcfe engines of deflrucStion, but deprecated the fpirit of a people 
 who employed them ; nor could he reconcile their improvements in 
 the lyftem of del1ru(ftion to the benign fpirit which they reprefented as 
 the foul and operating principle of their religion. 
 
 Many other reports of a fimilar nature were propagated ; but the 
 ' reaibn alligned by the Chinefe government, for thus urging the depar- 
 ture of the Ambaflador, was the near approach of winter, when the 
 rivers would be frozen, and the journey to Canton, through the nor- 
 thern provinces, be crowded with inconvenience and impediment. 
 
 Whatever policy governed the councils of China on this occaiion ; 
 whether it was an enlarged view of national intereft, which it was 
 fuppofed the propofitions of Great Britain would not tend to advance, 
 or any difgufl: or prejudice proceeding from mifconducft, and mif- 
 raanagement in the embalTy itfelf, the manner in which the Ambafla- 
 dor was difmiffed from Pekin, was ungracious^ and mortifying in the 
 extreme. For even if it is fuppofed to be a pohcy of the Chinefe 
 government, that no foreign miniller fliall be received, but on par- 
 ticular occafions, and that he is not iuffered to remain in the country 
 when he has finiflied his particular miflion ; it does not appear th;it 
 the bulinefs was at all advanced which Lord Macartney was employed 
 to negotiate ; and he certainly would not have entered into any domef- 
 tic arrangements, if he had not confidcred himfelf as fecure of remain- 
 ing at Pekin throughout the winter. He muft have been encouraged 
 to believe that his refidencc would not only be permitted, but accepta-. 
 ble to his Imperial Majefly ; and that there was a very friendly dif- 
 pofition in the councils of China, towards the entering into a treaty 
 with Great Britain, refpeding a more enlarged fyftem of commercial, 
 intercourfe between the two countries.. 
 
 The
 
 ( '«' ) 
 
 Tlie jcaloufy of the Chinc/c government had fo far fuhfidtd as to 1703. 
 cxprcfs a widi for an embafly from this country, and afterwards to o<ftoi^ 
 receive it. l"hc }iowcr of Crcat Britain, its pofleflions in the Eaft 
 Indies, with the manner in w hicli tliey have been acquired, and the 
 general ftate of Europe, are fubjedts, by no means, unknown at the 
 court of Pekin; nor was the Enghfh fettlcmcnt at Chufan, <;r the 
 manner in which it was deflroyed, altogether forgotten. The Em- 
 peror himfelf had not only manifefted a refped: for the Britifh cm- 
 bafTy, by the great attentions which had accompanied its progrcfs, 
 but difcovercd an impatient defire to receive it by inviting it to his re- 
 fidencc in Tartary, when he was fo foon to return to Pekin. In fliort, 
 there was no apparent public reafon, when the Ambaflador was once 
 received, why he fliould not be permitted to proceed in his negotia- 
 tion : But, even, if any change bad taken place in the mind of the 
 Emperor, or any prejudice arifen againfl the embafly, from any indif- 
 cretion or mifcondud: in the management of it, w hich might induce 
 the court ot China to put an immediate termination to it ; it is wholly 
 irreconcileablc to the common rules of political decorum and civility, 
 as well as the principles of juftice and humanity, that an AmbafTador, 
 of fo much confequence as Lord Macartney, fhould be difmilled, un- 
 der his peculiar circumftances, without the leaft ceremony ; and be 
 not only ordered to depart without allowing the time necedary to 
 make the common arrangements for his journey, but alfo refufcd a 
 refpitc only of two days to his urgent folicitations. In fhort, we en- 
 tered Pekin like paupers; we remained in it like prifoners ; and we 
 quitted it like vagrants. 
 
 This day, Newman, a marine, who, with three of his com- 
 rades, had been taken from on board the Lion, to fill the vacancies- 
 occafioned by the death of fome of the foldiers belonging to the em- 
 baffy, died of the flux ; and to prevent this circumftance from being, 
 known, his corpfe was conveyed away in the nigiit. 
 
 Lordi
 
 ( l82 ) 
 
 Lord Macartney fcnt his own flate carriage as a prefent to the Grand 
 Choulaa, who rcfiifed to accept it. It was then re-demanded to be 
 unflunc^ and packed up ; but no anfvver whatever was returned ; and 
 fo Ihorl was the period allotted us to flay, and fo much was to be 
 done in it, that there was no time to make farther inquiries concern- 
 ing the fate of this chariot, or the reafons of fuch an ungracious be- 
 haviour on the part of the minifler by whom it was refufed. 
 
 The hurry and confulion of this day is beyond defcription ; and if 
 the foldiers had not been called in to have afliiled in packing the bag- 
 gage and ffores, a much greater part raufl have been left behind, that 
 adf ually became a prey to the Chinefe. 
 
 The portraits of their Majeffies were taken down, but as the cafes 
 in which they had come from England, had been broke up for fixtures 
 in the apartments, a few deals, haftily nailed together, were now their 
 only protedion. As for the fl^ate canopy, it was not taken down, 
 but abfolutely torn from the wall ; as the original cafe that contained 
 it, had been alio employed in various convenient ufes, and there was 
 not time to make a iiew one. The flate chairs were prefented to 
 fome of the mandarins ; and the canopy was given to fome of Lord 
 Macartney's fervants. Though, in the fcramble, the Chinefe con- 
 trived to come in for a fhare. They alfo contrived to purloin a very 
 large quantity of wine; nor was it polTible, in fuch a fcene of hurry 
 and confufion, to prevent thofe opportunities which they were on the 
 watch to fcizc. In one way or other, however, the public baggage, 
 ftores, furniture, &c. were jumbled together as well as circumllances 
 would admit j and no pains or adlivity were wanting in thofe employ- 
 ed to perform that Hidden and unexpected duty. 
 
 Wedncfdayg. The whole of the fuite were occupied, at a very early hour of tliis 
 
 moisping, in getting their packages in readinels, which were taken away 
 
 by the Chinefe appointed to convey them on the road. The whole 
 
 of the cmbalfy foon followed. Newman, the marine, was buried on 
 
 I the
 
 ( j83 ) 
 
 the road to Tong-tchcw, and at that town wc arrived in the evening, ,__L^Jj_^ 
 where wc found a great change in the article of our accommodations, oaober. 
 The apartments which were now allotted to us, were nothing more 
 than temporary fheds, hung with ftraw matting. 
 
 On going to the river fide we found the junks ready to receive us j Thurfdayia. 
 and when the circumflances of the embarkation were fettled, the junks 
 were arranged in following order : 
 
 No. I. The AmbafTador. 
 
 2. Sir George and Mafter Staunton. 
 
 3. Captain Mackintofli, Mr. Maxwell, Mr. Barrow, and Dr. 
 
 Gillan. 
 
 4. Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, with the Lieutenants Parifli and 
 
 Crewe. 
 
 5. MefTrs. Winder, Barring, Huttner, and Plumb. 
 
 6. The Dodtors Dinwiddie and Scott, with MefTrs. Hickey 
 and Alexander. 
 
 7. The Muficians, Mechanics. 
 
 The mandarin, Van-Tiidge-In, and his attendants, were in feparate 
 junks. 
 
 All thefc matters being finally adjuflcd, his Excellency, with Sir 
 George Staunton, &c. -went on board their junks : wliile the gentle- 
 men were employed in getting their baggage into their refpective 
 vcfTels, which exhibited a new and fuperior fcene of confufion to any 
 we had yet experienced. There was, in the firrt place, no fmall diffi- 
 culty in alTorting the junks, with tlie perfons who belonged to them. 
 Nor were there a fufficient number of coolies to tranfport the different 
 cffecfls on board the vefTels. In fhort, thole attentions which were 
 fhewn to the AmbalHidor on his former abode in this city, feemed to, 
 have been forgotten j and the place which was now appropriated to re- 
 ceive
 
 ( I^+ } 
 
 '7 93- ceive the baggage, was a fmall fpot, on the fide of the river, and pro- 
 
 October. tedled only by a fcreen of matting. 
 
 T have ah-eady mentioned the ftrange condud: of the Grand Choulaa, 
 refpeding the chariot which he refufcd to accept from Lord Macartney, 
 and then refiifed to return it. On our arrival, however, at Tong-tchcw, 
 the chariot appeared to have found its way thither before us ; and though 
 we were rather in the habit of being furprized, we could not help feel- 
 ing a confiderable degree of aftoniihment at feeing the carriage oppollte 
 the houfe appointed for the reception of the embalTy, furrounded by 
 crowds of Chinefe, and many of its ornaments defaced. It was, ac- 
 cordingly, drawn down to the river fide, and a cafe being made for it 
 on the ipot, to fecure it from any further injury, it was re-configned to 
 the hold of a junk ; and after having rolled a few ports in China, was 
 hereafter lent to figure at Madras. 
 
 About four o'clock the whole fuite were embarked, when dinner 
 was immediately I'crved ; nor was it long before they retired to reft, 
 after the moft fatiguing day they had experienced fince their arrival in. 
 China. 
 
 Friday ii. At a very early hour the junks were unmoored, and the fleet pro- 
 ceeded down the river : but as J have already given the beft defcrip- 
 tion in my power of the country through which it flows, and the local 
 circumftances of it, I ihall pafs on to the day when we changed the 
 natural for the artificial water, with one folitary obfervation; that 
 though we ftill attracted the notice of the inhabitants who lived near 
 the river, the refpedful attentions of our former voyage were not re- 
 peated . 
 
 vvednH"- This momlng the fleet entered a very noble canal, which commu- 
 
 ^^ '^* nicates with the river near Tyen-fing. It is a work of great labour, 
 and prodigious expence ; and its fides are faced with mafonry through- 
 out its courfe. At certain diftances locks are ereclied to give a current 
 
 to
 
 ( ^85 ) 
 
 to the water : they are In the form of an half-moon, and confine the ^ |^''^- 
 water to a narrow pad'agc in the midcUe of the canal, wliich occaficms Oa^.ti. 
 a fall of about three lect. The junks acquired an accelerated motion 
 in palling thefe locks, which continued for a confiderahle diflancc ; 
 and, in order to prevent their receiving any injury from flrikingagainft 
 the walls of the lock, which, on account of the fuddcn ferment of the 
 water, it is not often poflible to avoid, men are always Rationed there 
 to let down large leathern pads, which effedually break the Ihock tliat 
 would otherwilc be felt from fuch an accident. 
 
 We palled through at leall: thirty of thefe locks in the courle of this 
 day's voyage, without being able to difcover any variation in them, 
 as to their conftrudion, or the efFe^lls produced by them. 
 
 On each fide of the canal, the country, as far as the eye can reach, 
 is one entire fljit, but fmiling with fertility. Several villages, with 
 their crowds of inhabitants, varied the fcene j and, at each of them 
 the foldiers of the diftritl appeared in military array, and faluted the 
 fleet as it palTcd with three guns. 
 
 We palled by feveral towns and villages, and at every one of them Thurfdaji;, 
 the Ambailador and mandarins were received with military ho- 
 nours. . 
 
 It may be proper to obferve in this place, that a mandarin of the 
 fecond clafs, named Chootadzin, was on board the fleet, and was to 
 continue with us till our arrival at Hoang-tchcw, of wliich province 
 he is appointed the viceroy. Van-Tadge-hi, although a mandarin of the 
 firft clafs, was inferior to him in authority, as the appointment of 
 viceroy gives precedence to the highefl: order of mandarins. 
 
 I obferved a confiderable number of rice fields, in which there were 
 ftone gutters or channels, finifiied with great neatnefs, and admirably 
 contrived to convey water to every part of the plantations. 
 
 B b Foi
 
 ( iS6 ) 
 
 1793. For fome days the provifions with which we had been fiipplicd, 
 
 Of^^^ei^ ^'''^^^ ^'^^ '^^h' deficient in quantity, but were fent ready dreffed and 
 cold • lb that we found it neceflary to drefs them again, or rather heat 
 them up as well as we could. Mr. Plumb, the vehicle of all com- 
 plaints, and who, in general, contrived to procure redrefs, was em- 
 ployed on the present occafion to reprefent the diflatisfadtion which 
 was felt by the different departments of the embafly, refpedling the 
 deficiency and quality of the daily provifions. 
 
 Friday iS. The fame flat and fertile country appeared on cither fide of the ca- 
 
 nal, though the view was this day varied by feveral gardens, in which 
 there were plantations of that flirub which bears what is called the 
 Imperial and gunpowder teas : it grows to the fize of a goolberry 
 bufh, with leaves of the fime fize. The former of thofe teas is col- 
 lcd:ed from the firft, and the other from the fucceffive, bloffoms of 
 that plant. 
 
 We continued to pafs through a fucGeffion of locks, and to excite 
 the curiofity of various towns and villages which poured forth their 
 inhabitants to fee the extraordinary fpe(5lacle of an European em- 
 baffy. 
 
 Satorday 19. Towns and villages altcmately prefentcd themfelves an either fide of 
 the canal, with their prodigious population, but polfeffed no peculi- 
 arity, and offered no circumflances of novelty which would juffify a 
 particular deicription. 
 
 The reprefentation which had been made concerning the provifions 
 produced an immediate change in the fupply of them : we this day 
 received a large quantity of mutton and beef, with fowls and ducks ; 
 to thefe were added bread, flour, tea, fugar, rice, vegetables of all 
 kinds, with foy, oil, candles, charcoal, and wood ; and, while the 
 folid p^rt of the meal, with the means of preparing it, were amply 
 
 adminiffered.
 
 ( '87 ) 
 adminiflcrcd, the elegant addition of" fruits of various kinds, and the '79'.- 
 liquors of the country, were not forgotten. Odob-r. 
 
 In the very uncxpcded fituation of the embafly, it was very natural 
 for thofc who compofcd the retinue of it to be continually forming 
 ■conjecftures, and eagerly inquiring after any information that might 
 tend to elucidate the extraordinary circumftances of it. Thus we 
 became acquainted with various reports on the fubjed, fome of which 
 we were difpofcd to credit, while wc rejected others, as they feemed 
 to concur with, or contradict, the events of the moment. 
 
 Thus we were not unwilling to believe, as it was propagated among 
 us by fome of the Chinefc, that a Tartar mandarin had been able to 
 prejudice the Emperor againll the Englirti people, by rcprefentlng 
 them as barbarous, inhuman, and dellitute of all thoie amiable qua- 
 lities which they pretended to pofTefs : nor were many of the lUitc 
 indifpofed to believe that to fuch an unpropitious circumftancc the 
 cmbafTy had been treated, to \\{c no worfe expreihon, with fuch 
 rtrange difrcfpecT; and peremptory difmiflion. It was alfo added, tliat 
 Van-Tadge-In, the attendant mandarin, had fince repreiented the con- 
 dud: and charadler of the embally in a very different point of view, in 
 a written memorial addreffed to the Emperor ; which had induced his 
 Imperial Majcfty to give orders that the Britifh Ambafllidor and his 
 iuite, lliould be abundantly fupplied with every thing ncceffary for 
 their convenience and comfort, and that they might at all times enjoy 
 the liberty of going on ihore, and amuiing themfelves at their own 
 difcretion. 
 
 We paffed a great number of tobacco plantations. The Chinefe Sunday ::8. 
 cultivate and manufadfure this plant in a very fupcrior degree, and arc 
 fuppofed to pofTefs greater varieties of it, than any other country in 
 the world. 
 
 The quantity of tobacco confumed, and, of courfe, grown in 
 China, mufl be beyond all calculation, as fmoaking is univerfally 
 
 B b 2 pradlifed.
 
 ^793- 
 * ,, 
 
 Ocftober, 
 
 ( I^^ ) 
 
 pra<5lifed, and by all ranks and ages. Children, as foon as they have 
 fufficicnt ftrcngth or dexterity to hold a pipe in their hands, are 
 taught by their parents to fmoke, which they feel not only as an ha- 
 bitual amufement, but is confidered as a prelervative againft all con- 
 tagious difeafes.. 
 
 Several walled cities appeared at fonie diftance from the canal, 
 whofe guards and garrifons were marched to the banks, in order to 
 give the ufual falute ; and one in particular of very great extent and 
 amazing population, called Tohiamfyn. The crowds of people of 
 both fexes which came to fee the junks pafs, were beyond all belief. 
 
 Wc this day paffed feveral ftone bridges, fome of them were of one, 
 and others of two arches, which appeared to be conftrudled with great 
 flrength and excellent mafonry. The number of locks appeared ra- 
 ther to increafe than diminilh in the courfe of this day's voyage. 
 
 Tiiefdayaa, 'y\^q country offers a very fruitful fcene, and, in fome places, rofe 
 into hills and uplands. The water-mills, of which we faw feveral at 
 work, appear to be in a great meafure the fame as thofe ufed in Europe: 
 they were corn-mills, as we were informed ; and were fituated in the 
 midft of very extenfive fields of that grain, which was almoft ready 
 for the fickle. 
 
 Several gentlemen of the fuite went on fliorc to enjoy the exercife 
 and variety of walking on the banks of the canal ; but the junks were 
 carried on with fuch rapidity from the quick fucceffion of locks, that 
 they were left behind, and the whole fleet was obliged to come to 
 anchor till the), rejoined it. 
 
 Wfdi)ef- We this morning faw a very lofty pagoda fituated on an eminence : 
 
 ''^^ *^' it appeared to be a Hone building, confining of eight ftories, each of 
 which was encircled with a balcony, and the whole terminated in an 
 ornamented roof that runs up to a very flender point. 
 
 Wc
 
 ( '^9 ) 
 Wc this da}- fiiw the Chincfc poll jjafs along the road, on the fide '_l^^' 
 of the canal, with great expedition. The letters and packets are October, 
 carried in a large f'quarc bamboo bafl<et, girt with cane hoops and "'^ *^**' 
 lined : it is locked, and the key is given to the cuftody of one of the at- 
 tendant foldicrs, vvhofe ollice it is to deliver it to the poft-mafter : the 
 box is faftcncd on the courier's Ihoiildcrswith flraps, and is decorated 
 at the bottom with a number of fmall bells, which being fliaken by 
 the motion of the horfc, make a loud gingling noiie, that announces 
 the approach of the poft. The pofl-man is efcorted by five light-horle- 
 mcn to guard him from robbery or interruption. The fwifteft horfes. 
 are alfo employed on the occafion, which are renewed at every ftage; 
 fo tlxat thepofls of China may vie in expedition with the Englifh mail. 
 
 The fiicceflion of populous and large towns was fo continual, that ^^'^^^y *$• 
 it would be tedious to mention them but as a general charaderiftic of 
 the country ; unlefs fome particular circumftancc, from its novelty 
 or interefl, Ihould juftify defcription. 
 
 When I rofe this morning, I was furprifed to find the junk fleet at 
 anchor in the heart of a very large city, through the center of which 
 the canal pafTcs : it is here crofTed by a continual fucccfTion of bridges,. 
 which are connected with a circular breaft-work on each fide, guarded 
 by foldicrs, who fuffer no vcfTcls to pais till they have been infpcdfed 
 by mandarins who prcfide over that department. The fleet was fa- 
 voured here with the ufual falute of three guns, and a very large body 
 of foldicrs was drawn up on both fides of the canal : they were com- 
 pletely armed, and wore large helmets, which gave them a very mili- 
 tary appearance,, while their ranks were enlivened with feveral (lands 
 of colours. 
 
 At fix o'clock the fleet left this city, and at ten pafTed through 
 another, which, as far as wc could judge from our palTage, was of 
 eq^ual dimenfions and population. Its name is Kord-cheeaung.
 
 ( ipo ) 
 1793- To the left of the canal, and in the center of the city, we faw a very- 
 
 October, magnificent and lofty pagoda; it rofe to the height of ten ftories, each 
 of which is furrounded with an elegant gallery, and projeding cano- 
 pies, fupportcd by pillars. 
 
 The chief mandarin of the place has an handfome palace guarded 
 by a fort, whofe garrifon came forth to falute the Amballador, as the 
 veffels paiTed by it. 
 
 In the fubfequent progrefs of this day's voyage we pafTed four other 
 cities, of equal magnitude with thofe w^iich have been already men- 
 tioned ; and about nine o'clock at night anchored in the city of Lee- 
 - yaungoa, which was illuminated to do honour to the diftinguifhed 
 perfons on board the fleet ; nor were any of thofe marks of refpedt 
 omitted which had been demonftrated in all the places, according to 
 their rank, through which we had pafled. 
 
 A very large body of troops, confiding at leafl of a thoufand men, 
 were drawn up on the banks of the canal ; and each man held a pole, 
 with a coloured paper lanthern hanging from it, which, when the 
 troops halt, is ftuck in the ground j the whole forming a very fingular 
 and pleafing fpedacle. 
 
 SHturaayz6. The air was this morning extremely cold; the thermometer having 
 funk fo low as forty degrees. At feven o'clock we palTed a lock, 
 whofe cuiTcnt bore us into the city of Kaunghoo, which, from the 
 great number of junks laying there, muil be a place of immenfe 
 trade. Indeed, the water was fo entirely covered wirh them, that our 
 Eeet was obliged to come to anchor, in order to give time for a paffage 
 to be made between them. The canal took a winding courfe through 
 this place, which is elevated above it, and its banks fall in beautiful 
 flopes to the water. 
 
 The
 
 ( '9' ) 
 The weather was moderate and agrecahlc: and the profpcct was '7'>?- 
 varied with meadows of the richeil verdure, and covered with flocks fXf^toixr. 
 of iliccp and herds of catilc. We pafTed alfo (cvcral large f]dds of ^umlay 27. 
 paddy and millet, and the tyc ranged over a vaft extent of flat and 
 fertile country. 
 
 The voyage of this day furniflicd no variety — unlefs a great number Moncia; 28. 
 of flour-miils may be fuppofed to vary the fcene. 
 
 The growing wealth of cultivation we had fecn every hour as we Tucfday 39. 
 proceeded on our voyage, and not a fpot appeared, which towns and 
 villages did not occupy, but proved the {kill and labour of the huf- 
 bandman. This morning, however, gave us a profpecfl of that labour, 
 for wc pafTed fcvcral extenlive fields where the pcafants were bufy 
 with their ploughs j thefe machines, fo effential in agriculture, were 
 drawn by oxen, and though of a very clumfy form, when compared 
 with thofe of our own country, perform their ofTice with good cffcdt, 
 as the ground appeared to be got into a very promifing flatc of tillage. 
 
 Wc faw a fleet of junks laden with tea for the Canton market; nor W'edncf- 
 was it an unnatural, or uninterefting obfervation, that in tlie chance of ' ^ ' 
 commerce, fome of their cargoes might ultimately be configned to our 
 own country, and arrive there before us. 
 
 The profpe(fls of this day were enlivened by pagodas, and country 
 feats J fome of which were adorned with beautiful gardens, and others, 
 furrounded with the lineft orchards I ever beheld. 
 
 This morning the fleet paffed through a walled city named Hoong- Thuiriiayjc. 
 loafoo. This is another of thofe places where the vail number of 
 junks which covered its canal, jultify the opinion of its exteniive 
 commerce. In its neighbourhood there are large plantations of tea, 
 extcnfive fields of tobacco, and a irreat number of large fiour-mills. 
 
 I " We
 
 ( 192 ) 
 
 1793- We had feen frequent and large plantations of rice; but the fields 
 
 November, of cotton, which this morning prefented themfelves to our attention, 
 
 " ^^ '* formed a curious and pleafing novelty. I obferved that the cotton 
 
 was of the nankeen colour, and is plucked from the top of a fliort 
 
 ftalk. 
 
 Of cities, towns, locks, and bridges, we have feen and faid fo much, 
 that the reader and the writer would be equally fatigued with the daily 
 enumeration of them. 
 
 CHAP,
 
 ( '93 ) 
 
 CHAP. XVIT. 
 
 Various circumjliinces of the voyage. Enter the Tellow River. Pafi 
 fevcral iozvns, lakes, &c. Ceremonies at the city ofKiangfou. Enter 
 a beautiful lake ; ilfcrij)iion of it. Enter a7iother river ; circum- 
 fances of it. Pafsfcvcral cities, ^c. Dock-yards for buitding junks. 
 Arrive at the city of Mee-you- mee-avong — beautiful country . Fur- 
 ther account of the Chincfe troops. A mandarin's palace and pagoda 
 defcribed. 
 
 1 HE canal appeared now to have aflumcJ the form of a confider- '79^ 
 
 able river, and brought us to a very large city, where we came to an November. 
 
 anchor at fix o'clock in the morning, having pafled a fort at the en- ^^^"'"'^^y *• 
 trance, by which the fleet had been falutcd. 
 
 When I mention the fituation and circumftances of this city, it 
 uould be needlcfs to dcfcribe it as a place of great trade, or fpcak of 
 the inconceivable number of junks which were moored at its quays and 
 wharfs, it will be fulHcicnt to iiiy, tliat it is walhed by large canals, 
 and that, on the fouth fide of it, there is an extenfive bay which com- 
 municates with the Yellow river, to give fomc notion of its commer- 
 cial charatfler. 
 
 Here the fleet remained at anchor about an hour; when it 
 unmoored, and foon entered the bay, with an alarming rapidity, 
 tj-irough a large lock, conflruded with ruflies, curioufiy matted to-^e- 
 ther, and fccured with logs of wood. 
 
 This bay is of great extent, and would contain the proudcfl: fleets 
 of Europe, while its fliores offer an amphitheatre of landfcapc 
 
 C c beauty.
 
 ( 194 ) 
 
 i.y93- beauty. The hills are verdant to their very fummits, which are fomc- 
 Nw^er. times cro\^'ned with pagodas ; and the lower parts are enriched with 
 houfes and gardens, and that variety of cultivation which diflinguifhes 
 this exti-aordinary country. 
 
 On entering this bay, it was difcovered that there were a variety of 
 currents running with great violence, and in oppofite diredlions, at not 
 lefs than feven miles an hour ; and the fkill of navigating it confifts in 
 being able to get into that individual current which runs towards th» 
 place of the vellel's particular deflination. 
 
 In this fituation we fliould have been glad, if it had been confident 
 with the courfe of the voyage, to have caft anchor, and enjoyed, at 
 leifure, the contemplation of its beauties j but the fleet immediately 
 fleered towards a large river, which it foon entered, and whofe ftream 
 foon bore us, as it were, into the bofom of a rich and beautiful 
 country. 
 
 At the mouth of this river there is a large town, wiih the palace of 
 a mandarin of the firft clafs, furrounded by a ftrong flone wall : it is a 
 very large edifice, crowned with turrets, richly gilt and ornamented 
 ai~ter the fafliion of the country. The front looks towards the bay, of 
 which it commands an extenfive and enchanting profped:. 
 
 Town now fucceeded to town j the country offered the mofl beau- 
 tiful views, of which no adequate idea caa be given by written defcrip- 
 tion. And when I mention the country as one fcene of varied cultiva- 
 tion, divided by well-planted enclofures, peopled with farms that are 
 furrounded by orchards, enriched with villas, and their ornamental 
 gardens, a very inadequate pidure is given of the expanfive fcenery 
 on either fide of the navigation which bore us through it. 
 
 At two o'clock, and as we were preparing for dinner, the junks 
 
 arrived at a very large town, through which the river took a courfe of 
 
 2 at
 
 ( '95 ) 
 
 jtt k-afl three miles. This place is foriiic-d on a more resulir i)l:in than '^''^• 
 any which we had feen in China. Ihc houfcs were uniformly huilt Novcmbtr, 
 of hrick, varied with an intermixture of blue ftone, and fcldom de- 
 viated from the height of two Ivories. 
 
 The ufual honours of forts and military guards were received here, 
 as through everyplace we palled, of whatever fizc or diftiudion it 
 might be : the walled city, and the village, were equally attentive to 
 this ad: of oHicial civility, according to their rcfpeiftivc capacities. 
 It may, indeed, be here obferved, that through the whole of our 
 travels in this country, whether by land, or by water, and not ex- 
 cepting Tartary, the villages, as well as the cities, have their mandarin, 
 and his guards proportioned to the magnitude and confequencc of the 
 place where they are cantoned ; and that the interior parts of the 
 kingdom are equally fecured by troop.s, as the frontiers, or fea coaft ; 
 we may, therefore, be faid to pafs, almoft, between a continued line 
 of foldiers, on each fide of the canals, or rivers; where the intervals 
 are fa.lmall between thofe villages and great towns, which form a cliAin 
 of military cantonments. 
 
 In the latter part of the afternoon we anchored, for fome time, at 
 another confiderable town, where the junks flopped to take in a. 
 fupply of China wine. It is fituated on the fide of a large lake, 
 which, in fome places, was divided only by a bank from tlie river 
 ©n which we failed. As I could not difcover any land in the diftant 
 part of this large body of water, I was difpofed to confider k as an 
 inlet of the Yellow fea. 
 
 The country now began to wear a fwampy appearance, and, of 
 courfe, did not altogether retain thofe beautiful features, which I have 
 fiiintly rcprefented it to polTefs, during the more recent parts of our 
 voyage. This circumftance naturally arifcs from the great number of 
 *ivcrs, canals, and lakes, that aid the navigation of this part of the 
 
 C c 3 countr)"- j
 
 ( ^96 ) 
 
 1793- country j which being uibjeft to occafional inundations from thenri, 
 .N(jvmiblr. ^^ frequently in the fituation that I have defcribed. 
 
 In the evening \\c faw a very fine palace belonging to the man- 
 darin of a "town, through which we afterwards pafled in the night,, 
 and neither knew its form or charadler: nor fliould we have even 
 difcerned the grandeur of the mandarin's refidence, if he had not illu- 
 minated it in honour of the Ambaflador and his brethren on board the 
 junks ; and ordered out his guard, confifting of at leaft five hundred, 
 men, to enlighten with their paper lanterns the banks of the river. 
 
 Sunday 3. I'^Js moming was very keen and frofty. The fleet anchored oppo- 
 
 fite to a large lake, which, appeared to communicate with feveral con-, 
 fiderable rivers. The country continues its flat and fwampy ap- 
 pearance. I have this day been informed that the river on which we 
 are proceeding is called the Yellow river, which may probably be 
 owing to the communications it may have with the Yellow fea. There 
 is a confiderable town fituated between the lake and this river. 
 
 The junks remained at anchor no longer than was neceflary to re- 
 ceive the ufual fupply of provifions and wine. In a fhort time we 
 pafled another lake ; and, without enumerating the canals, with their 
 jftone and wooden bridges, as well as the villages and towns that claimed, 
 our tranfient attention, I iliall come at once to another lake that appeared 
 to be much larger than any of thofe which have been already men- 
 tioned. A great number of junks were failing acrofs it in different di- 
 re<ftions, and feveral hundred filhing-boats were employed on it in 
 their neceflary occupations. It is (aid to abound in fifli ; thofe we 
 procured were fmall, of the fize of a fprat, but in tafle and fliape re- 
 fcmbling an haddock. Nor was our river deficient in its produce, as 
 plenty of fine trout were taken in it. 
 
 At fome diflance from the river, on the fide oppofite to the lake, is a 
 very large, and, as far as we coul.l judge, magnificent city, furrounded 
 
 by
 
 ( '91 ) 
 
 by a wall, named Chun-foong. The fubuibs which extend towards 
 the water, are alfo very confidcrable, and tho houfcs of which they 
 confift are built of a dark ftone, roofed with tiles of the fame colour. 
 They are only of one ftory, and their windows are circular and grated 
 with iron, which give them a very difagrceable appearance. The wall 
 of this town is not fo high as thofe we have hitherto leen, and, as far 
 as I could judge by the tclefcope, does not rife above fourteen or fifteen 
 feet. The part of it which we pafTed could not be lefs than two miles 
 in extent ; which may lead us to the plaufible conjedlure that the city it-- 
 felf is at leaft eight miles in circumference. From its general appear- 
 ance and acceflary circumftances, no doubt could be entertained of its 
 extcnfive commerce; and, from the drefs and manners of its inhabitants,' 
 a fimilur opinion might be entertained of their urbanity and opulence. 
 
 At four o'clock the fleet anchored at the extremity of the wall of 
 this city, and received a frefli fupply of wine and provifions ; thcfe, 
 indeed, were now provided in fuch plenty, that the poor people who 
 navigated the junks found themfelvcs in a ftate of unexpe(^led and- 
 unexampled luxury, from the fupcrabundanceof them. 
 
 Several of the gentlemen from the other junks did us the honour to 
 pay us a vifit, which produced an evening of great mirth and feftivity. 
 
 The weather was extremely cold. We paffed two large lakes, -^^^ , 
 which, by their refpedlive branches, unite with the river. At noon we 
 failed through a confiderable town, and beyond it, faw feveral fmall 
 canals on either fide of the river, with many boats on them employed 
 in fifliing. The country is flat and marfhy, and wherever the road on 
 the fide of the river pafTes over fwampy dips or vallies, wooden plat- 
 forms are erc<fted to prefcrve the level, and avoid the inconvenience cf 
 finking into them. 
 
 A large walled city, whofe name is Kiangfou, next claimed our 
 attention. At the entrance of it a mandarin and his guards appeared 
 
 on
 
 ( I9S ) 
 
 '7 93- ^ on the water-fiJe in nnartial figure, to give the cuftomary falutes. At 
 Kovembei. cachcod of the line of troops there was a temporary arch ereded, with 
 a conneded platform, about three feet from the ground, guarded by 
 railing, and projecting into the river : thefc temporary flrudures were 
 covered with beautiful matting, the rails were bound with lilk of 
 various colours, and ornamented with knots and feftoons : the arches 
 were decorated in fimilar tafte, and the whole was erccSled for the con- 
 venience of the Amballador, if it had fuited his convenience to flop, 
 and viiit the mandarin. 
 
 At a fmall diflance, and on an elevated fituation, was an encamp- 
 ment of the mandarin's guards. The tents were pitched clofe to each 
 other, in a circular form, v.'ith a fmall vacant fpace as an entrance 
 to the mandarin's pavilion, which occupied the center: it was de- 
 corated in a very elegant manner with ribbons and filken ftreamers : 
 .the front of it was open, and difplayed its interior ornaments ; it 
 contained a table covered with a collation, and furrounded with fine 
 chairs, with a canopy over one of them. The mandarin's attendants 
 appeared to be in waiting, and a centinel was on duty on each fide 
 . of the pavilion. 
 
 This regale was prepared with great politenefs and hofpitality in 
 honour of the Ambafl'ador and the mandarins on board the junks, if 
 the order of the voyage would have permitted them to have delayed its 
 progrefs for a fliort time, to have acknowledged thefe refpedful at- 
 tentions. 
 
 Each tent had a flag of green filk, ornamented with golden figures 
 and Chinefe characters, flying on the top of it, fo that this encamp- 
 ment was a very pretty and pid:urc£que object.. 
 
 At a fmall diflance from it, there was a large town, the houfes of 
 .which being built of flone gave it a very fuperior appearance, and the 
 ;inhabitants poflefTed all the exterior .of jin opulent and poliflied people. 
 
 Here
 
 ( ^99 ) 
 Here \vc ftoppcd for a fliort time in order to receive a fiipply of pro- . ''j*^' , 
 vifions, as well as to be furnilhed with a body of thofc men whofe N'ovcm^';i. 
 employment it is to tow the junks. They wore a kind of uniform, 
 and had red caps on their heads, by which their laborious profefhon 
 is known and dillinguiflicd. Our eyes were very much gratified at 
 this place by the fight of a confiderable number of women, who 
 appeared to us not only to polTefs fine features, but fair complex- 
 ions. 
 
 At five o'clock we came to the fuburbs of a very hirgc city, and 
 pafTed at leaft a mile along the fuburbs before we reached tiic wall of 
 it. From fuch a view as iny fituation would admit, and the bcfl 
 information I could obtain, this place is at leafl nine miles in circum- 
 ference. Several hundred junks were moored along its wharfs, fome 
 of which were of very large dimenfions. The wall is at leafl forty 
 feet in height, and has a very ancient appearance. The redoubts which 
 fupport the gates are fuch as I had not feen in China, being in the 
 form of an half-moon. The troops were drawn out, as in other 
 places, on our arrival, and a very brilliant illumination, exhibited by 
 the mandarin, did not fail to diflipate the gloom of the evening. 
 
 This morning the fleet entered a large lake, adorned with a great Tucfday^. 
 number of beautiful iflands. The moft confiderable of them is on 
 the fouth-wefl fide of the lake; its length is about three quarters of a 
 mile, but not of equal breadth. It contains a mandarm's palace, 
 with feveral fummer houfes fancifully fcattered about it ; the whole 
 ihaded with the finefl trees, and prefcnting to us, as we failed by it, 
 a mofl inviting fcene of rural elegance. But beauty was not the 
 only circumftance which allured our attention to this charming 
 illand J a confiderable rock, an objedl of comparative grandeur, alfo 
 rofe from the midft of its groves, and was crowned with a (lately 
 pagoda,. 
 
 We
 
 ( 200 ) 
 
 1793- We hatliio'fooner paflTed this delightful fpot, poffeffing fo mucli 
 
 Noveraber. bcauty in itfelf, and commanding fo large a portion of fine profpe6t 
 around it, than we entered another river, the mouth of which is furround- 
 • ed-with high lands, offering the moft pidurefque fcenery that can be 
 imagined : thick woods, (lately edifices, lofty pagodas, and mountainous 
 (hapes, with the river and the lake, all blended together in one pic- 
 ture, may exercife the imagination of thofe who read this work, but 
 tar tranfccnds the defcriptive powers of the writer of it. It may nor 
 alfo be unworthy of remark, that all the houfes which occupy the 
 heights furrounding this bay, are ornamented with gilt pyramids or 
 pinnacles, which jife from the roof, and give fonie of tlic buildings 
 the appearance of Gothic archited:ure_. 
 
 This river, as might be expetfled, foon brought us to a town, 
 where the fold iers, which were drawn up on either fide of the water 
 to falute the fleet, were different from thofe we had already feen, by 
 the variety of their drefs and the colour of their flandards ; which were 
 now multiplied into white, fcarlet, orange, light and dark blue and 
 green. 
 
 A mandarin's palace, very finely ornamented with painting, gilding, 
 and filken dreamers, a river crowded with junks, and a charming 
 country on either fide of it, were the only objedls that prefented them- 
 felves to us, till we arrived before the city of Mee-you-mee-awng. The 
 walls are of great height, and guarded by towers; while a kind of 
 glacis flopes down from the foot of it to a meadow, agreeably planted 
 with trees that ftretch along the fide of the river, and add very much 
 to the beauty of the place. 
 
 Here the fleet anchored for a fliort time to take in the ufual 
 fupply ot provifions ; and, from the general appearance of the city, 
 as well as of the adjacent country, they feemed to have been formed 
 ;by the hand of Commerce itfelf for the purpofes of navigation. 
 
 JJcauty
 
 ( 20I ) 
 
 Beauty of fituation might alfo be added to the abundance of its pro- , '1'^^' _, 
 
 dudlions ; for the banks of the river thdt pafled before its walls, when N'ovcmber. 
 they rofc into height, were covered with lianging woods and garden*;,' 
 which gave a charming variety to the tranfient fccnc. 
 
 To thefc pleafing objcd:s fuccceded one of a very different nature, 
 and, by its contraft, acquired an additional importance. It was no 
 lefs tlian a large body of foldiers drawn up on an efplanade ; the line 
 of which, extending near a mile, divided into companies diflinguillied 
 by the variety of their uniforms, and enlivened by the number, as well 
 as colour of their ftandards, offered a very beautiful fpedaclc. 
 
 No other objcd for fome time attrafted our notice, except a fmall dock 
 yard for building junks, enclofed in a fine grove, which formed 
 a pretty, pidurefque fcene. The river now appeared to be proceed- 
 ing boldly on into a rich, fertile country, but of more unequal furfacc 
 than any wc had yet feen ; when, by an unexpeded meander, it- 
 brought us back to the city of Mee-you-mcc-awng, to aftonifli us 
 with the extent of it. Here we palled through another large bridge, 
 and near a circular baflion which commanded, by its battery, every 
 dirediion of the river. 
 
 On another turn of the flream, a very fine hill rofe up, as it were, 
 before us, whofe fummit is crowned with a magnificent pagoda, 
 and whofe declivities have all the decoration that could be conferred on 
 them hy beautiful gardens and elegant buildings. At the foot of tliis 
 elevated fpot arc two flonc arches, or gatewaj-s, which open to a 
 walk that winds gradually up the hill to the pagoda. 
 
 The palace of the mandarin, of whofe garden this hill appeared to 
 form apart, is lituated on the banks of the river, from whence a broad 
 flight of fteps afccnds to the gate of the outer couit. This edifice is 
 perfedly fuited, both in its fize and appearance, to the dignity of its pof- 
 felTor. Like other buildings of the lame kind and character in Ciiina, 
 
 D d it
 
 ( 202 ) 
 
 it is pcrfedlly uniform in all its parts. The body, of the houfe rift3' 
 to three flories, and the wings are diminifhed to two. A paved court 
 occupies a large fpace in the front ; and the whole is enclofed by a 
 wall, including a large garden, that extends to the beautiful hill, of 
 which a very inadequate Iketch has been, already given. 
 
 The country continues to make great advances in landfcape beauty : 
 fields full of fertility, with their thick and flaady enclofures ; farms 
 embofomed in orchards ; villas, and their gardens, we have long con- 
 tinued to fee : but now the mountain rifes before us, not rugged and. 
 barren, but verdant to its very top; while innumerable herds of 
 cattle, and flocks of flaeep, hang down-its floping paftures. 
 
 Another town foon fucceeded j and to that a lake, furrounded by hills 
 of the fame kind, and covered with the fame inhabitants as thofe which 
 have juft been mentioned. From this enchanting fpot our fleet paffed 
 through a lock, and between a draw-bridge, into a canal, that divides 
 another large commercial town. Here we favv a brick-kiln, and a 
 great pile of bricks juft made : they appear to be compofed of a kind 
 of fand, mixed up with the mud of the river. The kiln itfelf is built 
 of the materials which it makes, and is in the form of a fugar loaf. 
 
 In the evening we palTed a large walled city, containing all the cir- 
 cumftances of the various places of that defcription which have beea 
 already enumerated. Several pagodas were illuminated on the occa- 
 fion, and had a very pretty appearance amid the gloom of nights 
 
 CHAP.
 
 ( ^03 ) 
 
 € H A P. XVHI. 
 
 ifhe voyage continued. A fuccejfion of various objeSls. The elegant 
 attentions of a inandarin to the embcijfy. Captains of the junks 
 punifjed for embez-zUng the provifons fuppUcd for the ufe of the 
 Ambaffador and his fuite. Hiifbandry of the Chine fe. Preparations 
 for fending the hea^y baggage belo7iging to the cmbajfy to Chufan : 
 fcveral perjons of the fuitc ordered to accompany it. Arrive at 
 Hoang-tchcw. Captain Mackiniofj^ and the otier gentlemen, fet off 
 for Chufan. 
 
 1791- 
 
 A TOWN, which we entered this morning, had a ver}^ difmal ap- November. 
 pearancc, from the colour of thehoulcs, which are all huilt of a black ^l^^^' 
 brick. They were, however, much more lofty than any we had yet 
 ieen in China ; fome of them rifing to four florics ; and there were 
 ■very few indeed that had lefs than two. 
 
 We pafTed beneath a very handfomc flonc bridge of three arches, 
 diat appeared to be of recent ercdion. It was built in the manner of 
 oQr bridges in England ; the cent-cr arch occupying a much laro-er 
 fpan, and riiing to an higher elevation than the lateral ones. On the 
 parapet, over the former, were fix round fmall ftoncs, by way of or- 
 nament, with Chinefe charadcrs engraven on them. 
 
 The mandarin's palace, a vcr}^ fingular flrudlure, immediately zX- 
 trails the attention on pafling the bridge near which it liands. On 
 each fide of the principal gate are tivo lofty walls, painted of a red 
 colour, to prevent the building from being feen but in a front vicv\- of 
 it. The gateway is very much enriched with fculpture, and the 
 4ifual accompanymcnts ot Chincfc charafters : it i^ of fione, and 
 
 D d 2 fiipports
 
 ^Covember. 
 
 ( 204 ) 
 
 i-gj. fupports an apartment. The houfe itfelf is painted of different 
 colours, with a flone gallery in front, and covered with a roof of the; 
 lame material. 
 
 The mandarin, who refided here, had given to his hofpitality the 
 moft elegant appearance. He had caufed a temporary ftage, or plat- 
 form to be ered:ed, from the palace to the fide of the river, in cafe 
 the Ambaffador, and the mandarins, fhoiild find it convenient to 
 land. The roof of this building was covered with filk of every colour; 
 A. great number of lamps were ful'pended from it, fancifully adorned 
 -with gauze and ribbons, and the floor was covered with a fine, variegated 
 matting. But this was not the whole of the elegant attentions which 
 were exerted by the mandarin on the occafion; as he had caufed a 
 large fcreen, or curtain, of this matting, to be fixed on the oppofite fide 
 of the water, in order to hide fome ruinous buildings, that would 
 otherwife have difgraced the gay pidture lie liad contrived, by their 
 deformity. 
 
 The foldicrs, under the command of this mandarin, were of a diffe- 
 rent appearance from any w'e had feen. They wore red hats, with a 
 very high and pointed crown ; on the fide of which was a brafs plate, 
 that appeared to be faftened with yellow ribbons. 
 
 Towns, locks, bridges, and pagodas flill continued to appear in an 
 hafty and aflonifliing fucceffion. In the afternoon, a very large coun- 
 try refidence was fcen at fome diil:ance, with a very lofty pagoda rifing, 
 as it perfpedively appeared, from the center of it. The tower ter- 
 minated in a cupola, with a fpiral ornament rifing from the top, 
 crowned with a ball, from each fide of which a chain hung down till 
 jt touched the upper ffory of the building. 
 
 Soon after we had paffed this firudlure, the banks of the river were, 
 for a confiderable diftance, fohigh, as to obffure all view of the adja- 
 cent country. 
 
 When
 
 (. 205 ) 
 When the fleet came to anchor, the grand mandarin vifitcd all the '793- 
 junks, in conCequence of a complaint that had been made againft fomc November, 
 of the captains of them, for embezzling the provifions which were 
 daily fupplied for the u{c of the embaffy. After a feverc examination 
 into this bufinefs, the mandarin was fo convinced of the truth of the 
 charge, that the perfons accufed were immediately fenlenced to be 
 bambooed : they were accordingly ftrctchcd on the ground, and 
 being held down by two foldiers, were ftruck, in a very violent man- 
 ner, acrofs the hips, till the judge gave a fignal for the punilhmcnt 
 to ceafe. 
 
 It had been a very foggy night, and the weather continued to be Tucfday 7, 
 hazy till ten o'clock, when the fog cleared away, and a fine day fuc- 
 ceeded, which unfolded to the view a charming and fertile country, 
 bounded by hills, w hofe fummits were crowned with pagodas. 
 
 r, this day, caught a trahfient view of the pradical hufijandry of ths 
 country i as the different operations of digging, manuring, and plough- 
 ing were going forwards in fields on the river's fide. And though 
 the Chinefe farmers certainly produce as fine crops of grain as any I 
 have ever feen in Europe, this circumftance mufl: arifc from the folc 
 efforts of perfevering labour, as their agricultural uteniils are of a. 
 very clumfy form and inconvenient mcchanilm.. 
 
 In the courfe of this day we pafied through a noble arch, and enter- 
 ed a very large town, whofe houfes, which are, many of them, fo 
 lofty as to reach to three ftories, are covered with plaifler, and univcr- 
 fally painted black. After a courfe of at leaft two miles through this 
 town, we palfed beneath another arch of dimenfions equal to that, 
 fhrough which we had entered it. 
 
 Another town, of the fame lize and appearance, foon fticceeded '^: 
 ■^vherc, as a part of the houfes, oft the I'lde of the river, projcded a 
 
 fmalli
 
 ( 2cy6 ) 
 
 1793, irnail fpace over it, fhe men who towed us could be of no fervice, 
 
 ^;j^^^';;;j;^ and the junks were dragged forwards very flowJy by boats. 
 
 The continual interfedion of canals, with the fucceffion of lakes 
 and rivers, may be fuppofed to have perplexed a more keen obferva- 
 ,tion than mine; and, in the extraordinary fucceffion of obje<fts, I 
 may not have always been correct as to the exaft charafter of the 
 water on which we failed : the rivers may have lometimes affumed tiie 
 form of canals, and the canals have fometimes expanded into the ap- 
 pearance of livers ; but if I fliould, at any time, have miftaken the one 
 for the other, either from inaccuracy of obfcrvation, or the hurry of 
 '.the moment when I wrote thofe remarks from whence this volume is 
 formed, fuch an accidental circumftance will not operate as to the more 
 particular and important information of it. 1 liiah not, however, 
 liefitate to confider it as a very noble river, which brought us beneath 
 the walls of the city of Chaunopaung, that were crowded with its 
 inhabitants to fee us pa^fs : and as the Ifream foon bore us from it, there 
 was no opportunity to obfefve whether it had any circumihmce of 
 jiovelty worthy of record. 
 
 Jriday 8. At noon the junks came to an anchor in the country. When his 
 Excellency fent for feveral perfons of his fuite, to inform them of the 
 regulations which would take place on their arrival at Hoang-tchew, 
 ,that they might make the neceffary arrangements. They were as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 All tlie heavy baggage was intended to be forwarded from Hoan^- 
 <chew to Chufan, in order to be put on board the Hindoflan, and 
 ^conveyed by fea to Canton. It was accordingly ordered, that no per- 
 ibn Ihould retain any thing but what might be neceffary tor prcfeni 
 ^ufe, as the junks, which would iliortly receive us, were not fuiliciently 
 iarge to carry heavy cargoes^ 
 
 A. ii
 
 noi- 
 
 NcvtinLnT. 
 
 ( 207 ) 
 It was alfo fettled, that Licutenant-ColuncI Bcnfon, Doder Dinwid- 
 dle, and Mr. Alexander, were to accompany Captain Mackintofli to 
 Chilian : four fervants, and two mechanics, to take care of the ftorcs, 
 were alfo to attend upon thofe gentlemen. The rcfi: of the fuitc were 
 to accompany his Excellency over land, and I was of that number. 
 
 The country ftill continued to be as we have for fome time defcrihed Saturday 9. 
 it. As we proceeded, and the country became more unecjual, the 
 pagodas, which are almoll always placed on iieights, fcemed to mul- 
 tiply ; and there were few of them that did not reach to fevcn or 
 eight llories. As for towns and villages we never ceafed to fee a con- 
 tinual fucceffion of them ; and when they did not cover the banks of 
 our river, ihcy appeared at a dillance^ where we might fuppofe them 
 to be rcfledied by lonie other water. 
 
 At three o'clock in the afternoon, the fleet was ordered to anchor 
 in the open country, near the fhore, when the grand mandarin, Choo- 
 Tadge-ln, came round to each junk, the owners of which he ordered 
 into his prefence, and, after a Ihort examination, commanded every 
 one of them to be bambooed : thougii I could never learn the offence 
 which produced this example of fummary juiticc. 
 
 This morning the air was extremely cold and piercing. We pafled Sunday 10. 
 feveral plantations of tallow-trees, and arrived at Hoang-tchew in the 
 afternoon, when the whole fleet came to anchor in the principal part of 
 the city. 
 
 The junks were now faflened together, and orders were iffued to 
 forbid any pcrfon belonging to the fuite to go on Ihore. Indeed, as it 
 appeared, to prevent any attempt of that kind, a body of Chincfe fol- 
 diers pitched their tents in the ftrect oppolite the junks, and formed a . 
 iittle camp there, to do duty over the embalfy. 
 
 la
 
 C 20S ) 
 
 In the fame flrcet tliere were alfo feveral ercdlions like triumphal 
 arches, where the mandarins ufed to come every day, to fit in Urate ; 
 and, as we were informed, to confiilt on the affiiirs of the city. 
 
 filoaday ii. No circumftance of any moment happened from this time, till the 
 Thurfday following, which was the day of our departure j and the 
 bufinefs of arranging and dividing the baggage, according to the 
 orders ifTued for that purpofe, did not allow us much leifure for obfer- 
 vation, if any thing had occurred worthy of attention : but, the truth 
 is, nothing did occur, but the never-ceafing uproar of the inhabitants 
 of the city, who were continually flocking to the junks to take a view 
 of us. 
 
 On Wednefday night the attendant mandarin paffcd through all the 
 junks, and requefted that the different articles of the baggage fhould 
 have the refpedliive names of Chufan, or Canton, written upon them, 
 according to their refpe<5tive deftination ; which was no fooner com- 
 pleted, than thofe configned to the former place were fent off by coolies 
 to the depot appointed to receive them. 
 
 The Ambaffador ordered ten dollars to be given to the owners of 
 each junk, for their refpe(5live crews. 
 
 Thm-iiayi^. Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, Dodor Dinwiddie, Mr. Alexander, 
 with the lervants and mechanics already mentioned, fet off this morn- 
 ing, to proceed with Captain Mackintolli, to join the Hmdoflan at 
 Chufan. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 ( 209 ) 
 
 C II A P. XIX. • 
 
 The AmbaJJ'adQry with his fuite, proceed through the city of Hoang' 
 tchevj to the Green River ^ "where they embark. Formalities on the 
 occapon. Circumjlanccs of the voyage. Defcription of the country. 
 Refpe^f paid to the Ambajfador. Leave the junks, and proceed by land. 
 Mode of conveyance. Return to the junks. 1 he voyage continued. 
 
 J. HE Ambaflador, after having received the farewell vifit of the man- v_l^^l_> 
 darin of Hoang-tchew, fet off, with his whole retinue, for the Green N'^vember. 
 river, where they were to embark in junks of a leflbr burthen. His 
 Excellency was carried in a palanquin, and the reft of the fuite in a 
 kind of fedan chair. The guards, commanded by Lieutenants Parilh 
 and Crewe, preceded the cavalcade. 
 
 On paffing through the city gates, the embafly was faluted with 
 three guns. The diftance between the two rivers could not be lefs 
 than feven miles, the whole of which was covered by the city and 
 fuburbs of Hoang-tchew. The ftreets were lined, on either lide, with 
 foldiers, or it would have been impoflible to have paffed, from the 
 prodigious crowds of people, whom .curiofity had collcdcd on the 
 occalion. 
 
 The ftreets of this city are very narrow, but wclJ paved ; and the 
 houfes, which are two and three flcffies high, being uniformly built of 
 brick, have a very tieat appearance. The warehoufes of the mer- 
 chants exceed any I ever faw, both for fplcndor and magnitude ; 
 while the fliops are fitted up, both within and without, in a llyle ol 
 the grcateft elegance. Their goods, whether incloled in packages, or 
 difplaycd to view, were difpofed in tlie moft pleafmg and attractive 
 
 E e mode
 
 { 210 ) 
 
 1793- mode of arrangement. Hoang-tchew is a very magnificent, populous, 
 November. ^^'^ opulent city, maintaining by its commerce the immenfe num- 
 ber of its inhabitants; and is the capital of a province to which it 
 
 gives a name. 
 
 At noon his Excellency arrived at the Green river,, on whofe banks 
 a very large body of troops, all armed with helmets, and accompanied 
 with a large corps of artillery, were drawn up in regular order: the 
 whole confiding, as it appeared, of feveral thoufand men ; the 
 o-randeur of whofe appearance was enlivened by a great number of 
 gaudy ftandards and enfigns. The artillery troops were dreffed in 
 blue, and had figures of the ordnance embroidered on their cloaths, by 
 way of dillindiion. They confifled of feveral companies, and were 
 flationed in the center, and on the flanks of the lines. Their can- 
 non were by much the largeft we had feen in China : and as the Bri- 
 tilli cavalcade palTed through two very elegant triumphal arches, it 
 was faluted by a difcharge- of artillery. 
 
 The river being very fhallow towards the fiiore, the junks lay 
 at the diflance of fifty yards from it, and were ranged in a line clofe 
 to each other. A platform was eredled from the triumphal arch to 
 the junk appointed to receive the Ambaflador, which confifled of a 
 great number of carts faflened together, with fplit bamboos laid acrofs 
 *them. 
 
 The multitudes of people affembled to fee the embarkation were fa 
 great, that I fhould hazard credibility were I to exprefs my opinion of 
 them. Befides the crowds which were on foot, great numbers were 
 mounted on buflaloes, or drawn in carts by the fame animals, who 
 were tame and docile as our oxen. Some of them had three or four 
 perfons on their backs at the fame time, whom they bore with great 
 eafe, and were fubmilfive to their riders. The bufialo is very much 
 ufed in this country in every kind of draught labour, and particularly 
 in the occupations of hulbandry.. 
 
 On.
 
 ( ail ) 
 
 On entering thcfc junks, they were found, though of fmall dimen- '79V 
 fions, to be fitted up with great neatncfs and pccuhar accommodation. Novcn.Licr. 
 At five o'clock in the afternoon the whole fleet was unmoored, and 
 proceeded on its voyage. 
 
 I went on board the florc junk, where I faw the mandarin, Van- Trhhyi^. 
 Tadgc-In, examining one of the people belonging to it, concerning 
 fome mifdemcauour he had committed. The poor culprit was ordered 
 to be punilhcd with a baftinado, and he accordingly received two 
 dozen flrokes from a bamboo acrofs the thighs. 
 
 The greater part of this day's voyage was between ranges of moun- 
 tainous country, offering a great variety of romantic and pidiurcfquc 
 icencs. The intervening vallies were covered with the tallow and 
 mulberry trees ; from the former of which the Chincfe make their 
 candles, which are of a fuperior quality. This tree is here called 
 the latchoo, and is remarkable for the beauty of its appearance ; it is 
 the fize of an apple tree, having fcarlet leaves edged with yellow, and 
 blolToms of a pale purple. The mulberry tree is cultivated in China 
 with great care, for the produce of filk, which is a principal article of 
 Chinefe commerce. 
 
 We this day paffed feveral fmall villages, and a walled city, named 
 Syountong : it is lituated about three quarters ot a mile from the river, 
 and near a large forcll that Ihades the country about it. 
 
 This part of the river, though very broad, is feldom more than 
 two or three feet in depth, and in no place more than four. The 
 water has a green hue, and the bottom gravel. The beach, however^ 
 is a mixture of fand and ftones. 
 
 In the evening of this day we were very much delighted with a view 
 of the city of Zauguoa in a ftate of magnificent illumination. TIic 
 troops were alfo drawn up on the banks, as v\e perceived by their 
 
 E e 2 lanterns ;
 
 ( 212 ) 
 
 lanterns ; and from the number of them, as well as the brilliant ap- 
 pearance of the place, there was every reafon to confider it as in the 
 firll rank of Chinefe cities. The Ambaffador was fainted here as he 
 had been bv a great number efforts in the courfe of the day. 
 
 Saturday i6. The weather was exceeding cold, accompanied with rain. 
 
 We pafled feveral Hone pagodas of a greater height than any we 
 had yet feen, fome of them reaching to nine ftories. The environs 
 of the river ftill continued to be mountainous and full of pidiurefque 
 beauty, heightened by the fancy and fingular genius of the inhabitants, 
 both as to cultivation and ornament. Large plantations of the tallow 
 and mulberry tree occadonally appear, to vary and enliven the fuccefliorv 
 of delightful views which unfolded themfelves as the ftream bore us 
 along. 
 
 The falutes of artillery were now become fo frequent, that they were 
 tirefome J as the banks of the river are, in a great meafure, lined with 
 forts, which expended their gun-powder in doing honour to the em- 
 baffy. It may, indeed, be faid, with a flrift regard to truth, that in 
 our long journey through this kingdom, we had never proceeded a 
 fingle mile without receiving the falute of fome fort or military canton^ 
 ment : nor were thefe military honours altogether confined to the fides 
 of the river ; for this evening the fleet was an objed: of refpedl from 
 a body of troops at a confiderable diflance, as we could judge from 
 their illuunination j which had a very pleafing effedt. 
 
 Sunday ij. About three o'clock in the morning I was awakened by a very- 
 heavy difcharge of artillery ; and inllantly quitting my bed, i per- 
 ceived, by the number of lanterns, that a very large body of men were 
 drawn up on the fhore : but this was not all ; for a lighted torch was 
 fixed to the carriage of every gun, and the bearer of each ftand of 
 colours was alfo diflinguillied by a flambeau, which gave new bril- 
 iiancc and effccit to the military illuminatiori. 
 
 In
 
 ( *'3 ) 
 
 In an early part of the afternoon the fleet came to an anchor oppofitc , !Z!Il_> 
 
 to a fmull, but very pretty town, on tlie hanks of the river ; and in a N'ovonbcr* 
 Ihort time the condudling mandarin vifited the junks, to convey 
 to the whole of the amballador's train, according to tlieir rank, prc- 
 fents of perfumes, fins, Imperial tea, and nankeen. 
 
 We now feemed to have quitted the mountainous country for an M<Miday i8» 
 extenfivc plain, covered with plantations of the tallow and mulberry 
 tree, intermixed with villages, and the ornamented habitations of 
 mandarins ; fome of which were faced with a lead-coloured plaifter, 
 bordered with white; — an arrangement of colours not uncommon 
 in our own country, whether applied to the furniture of houfes, or 
 the drels of ladies. 
 
 The provifions which we now received, thougirby no means de- 
 ficient in quantity, were far inferior, indeed, in quality to thofe we 
 received in the former part of our journey ; which we were made to 
 underfland arofe from the nature of the country, rather than from any 
 inattention to the comfort and convenience of the embaffy. Indeed, 
 there could be no reafon to fuppofe that the Emperor had not even been 
 anxious to render our departure from his kingdom as agreeable as 
 refpecTt and exterior honour could make it. In fliort, from Tartary 
 to Canton, it was a chain of falutes, which were fo frequent, as I 
 have before obferved, that it might be compared almoll to a train of 
 wild-fire laid from one end of the empire to the other. 
 
 I faw a groupe of water-mills, coniifting of ten or twelve of them,, 
 all turned by a fmall cut from the river, which made a circuit round 
 a meadow where they were crcrted : they bore an exad: refemblancc 
 to our flour-mills in England, and appeared to be workcvl on the 
 fame principle : they were now, however, become very common 
 obje<5ts. Thofe, which I have now mentioned, were, as I under- 
 ilood, employed in threfliing rice. Among the various circumflanxcs 
 
 common
 
 ( 214 ) 
 
 t79.3' common to the country, wc this day faw a pagoda that rofe to the 
 ^^~^^^ height of eleven ftorics. 
 
 The fleet anchored at night before the gates of the city of Too- 
 atchoiL, 
 
 Tuefday 19. The country in fome degree refumed its former appearance; the 
 plains on each fide being backed by a long range of mountains rifing 
 in the horizon. 
 
 The fleet anchored this morning before a very confiderable village/ 
 to wait for the junks of Lord Macartney and Sir George Staunton, 
 Avhich had fallen confiderably afl;ern. 
 
 Wcdnef- Soon after dinner the whole fleet was moored oppofite to a large 
 
 ^y^°- town, a fpot which offered fuch a difplay of beautiful and contrafted 
 obje(ft:s, as I never remember to have feen. The river was, of 
 courfe, the central objedl of the pidlure: on one fide of it was a town 
 with all its peculiar circumftances ; and before it a military encamp- 
 nient with all its gay and gaudy decorations. On the other fule was 
 a range of lofty, perpendicular mountains. 
 
 The relt of this day was pafTed in making preparations for pro- 
 ceeding a Ihort way by land j in order to embark in other junks. 
 
 Thurfdayai. At an early hour the Ambaffador and his whole train difembarked, 
 and proceeded in palanquins, fedans, and bamboo chairs, or on 
 horfe-back, as they feverally chofe : for, in all our expeditions by 
 land, the mandarin Van-Tadge-In always confulted the fuite as to the 
 mode of travelling which they preferred, and never failed in accom- 
 modating them accordmg to their refpedtive inclinations. 
 
 The cavalcade proceeded but a fliort way, before we entered a 
 
 walled city of confiderablc extent, and with very large fuburbs, called 
 
 I Chan-
 
 ( 2'5 ) 
 Chanfoiycng. It is fituatcd in a valley formed by two large hills, ^93- 
 and about a quarter of a mile from the river. On the fummit of one November, 
 of thefe eminences is a pagoda of a very ancient conftruction, and flat 
 at the top, inllcad of being crowned with a turret, or rifnig to a point, 
 like thofc which every moment prcfented themfelves to our view. 
 On palling through the gates of this city, both as he entered and 
 palfed out of it, the Ambalfador was honoured, as ufual, with a dif- 
 charge of artillery. The ftreets were very narrow and lined with 
 (hops, fitted up with that interior arrangement and difplay of com- 
 modities, as well as exterior decoration, which has diftinguilhcd 
 fo many of the towns which we had vifitcd. - 
 
 After pafTing another walled city, and feven villages, which were 
 alfo furrounded with walls, we arrived at one o'clock at the city of 
 Sooeping, where dinner was already prepared. The remainder of 
 our journey was along a good road, through a fertile country varied 
 by hills ; till, after paffing, and furpriling by our appearance, a fuc- 
 cefTion of villages, we arrived at five o'clock at the city of Yoofaun, 
 and were introduced to the houfe of a mandarin, oppofite to the wharf 
 where the junks lay at anchor, in which we were to continue our 
 voyage. The baggage of the embafly had arrived before us, and 
 was diftribi;ted in the feveral courts of the buildinfr. After hem-r 
 refrelhed with tea, every one was bufy in feeine: their ba^-o-afrc 
 properly flowed on board their refpedlivc junks ; and, in the evenmo-, 
 the Ambalfador and his whole retinue were fafely embarked,, and not 
 only ready, but anxious, to proceed on their voyage. 
 
 The rain was without remiflion through the whole of this day, fo FiiiLu- 
 that the junks were prevented from quitting their fituation ; a cir- 
 cumfiance that did not tail, to exercife the patience of the paifcngers of 
 every rank, who had not yet learned to prefer the accommodations, 
 however well contrived, on board a junk moored to a wharf, to the 
 comforts of an houfe oa the ihor.e.. 
 
 C H A ^' 
 
 2S..
 
 ( 2l6 ) 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 *The voyage contitmed. Curious circumjlances of the banks of the river. 
 The embajfy leaves the junks for vejfels of a larger fze. Circum- 
 fiances of the voyage. Appearance of the country. Prefents from 
 the mandarin of Tyanng-Jhi-fenna. Brief account of tombs and 
 fepulchres. Pafs the town of S aunt y Tawn^ and a clufer of three 
 cities. Arrive at Chinga-foo. 
 
 K^2]^^l—) 1 HE fleet had failed in the night, and anchored earl/ in the morn- 
 November. j[j^g before a large city called Mammcnoa. 
 
 The river now flowed between a range of huge unconnecfled mafles 
 of ftone, which, as they did not appear to be rooted in the earth, cannot 
 be called rocks or crags ; but had all the appearance of having been 
 disjointed and thrown about by fome flrange convulfion of nature. 
 In the interflices between them there were veins of earth of different 
 appearances, but iiot in regular It rata : fome of thefe were of a deep 
 brown or black colour, others were yellow ; and they were oc- 
 cafionally intermLxed with fand and gravel. In fome parts I obferved 
 people cutting the Hone into the Ihape of bricks, and in others, 
 there were large heaps of them, which were of a deep red. Several of 
 thefe huge flones had been excavated with great labour, and formed a 
 fort of dwelling, many of whofe inhabitants came forth to fee our 
 fleet pafs along before them. Some of the intervals between thefe 
 ftones were ot fufficient extent to admit of gardens with their buildings 
 and pagodas, which produced very pid;urefque, romantic, and de- 
 lightful pictures. When the country, which is in the highefl ftatc of 
 cultivation, was lot in through the open fpaces between thefe flones, 
 it produced a curious and pkafmg perfpective. This very fingular 
 
 and
 
 ( 2'7 ) 
 
 and ftupcndous fcenery continued, tor a Icngtli of fcvcral miles, witli ^T)i- 
 little change, but what arofc from the Icfl'cr or greater magnitude of the November, 
 objedls, and the occafional decorations of art in building and orna- 
 mented gardens. 
 
 In the afternoon the fleet ancliored before the city of Hoa-quoo, 
 where we were agreeably furprifed to receive orders for the removal of 
 the embafly into larger junks, in which we fliould find a very pleafing 
 change in our accommodations and comforts. 'Ihefe junks were 
 hauled up along-lide thofe which we then occupied ; and, in a very 
 fliort time, the whole of the baggage was fliiftcd into them. 
 
 Here the grand mandarin of Hoa-quoo feiit to each junk, except 
 that which contained the foldiers, two cafes of various fruits, and as 
 many boxes of fweet cakes and confedlionar}'. 
 
 The rain which had continued almoft without ceafing for the lafl two Monday 25. 
 days, abated, and the weather became moderate. The city of Quiol- 
 Ihee-llieng, where the fleet anchored for fome time, has nothing re- 
 markable but its wall, which is built of the red bricks that I men- 
 tioned yefterday. 
 
 The appearance of the country was as beautiful as cultivation could 
 make it ; with a few rocks of a red ftonc occafionally breaking the 
 level of it. Near to fome of them there appeared to be quarries where 
 the people where hewing the large ftones into fmaller pieces, of the 
 fame fize and figure of thofe already defcribed. 
 
 The river had this day a more bufy appearance than it had yet af- 
 fumed, from the great number of rice mills which were at work on 
 this part of it. 
 
 The fog of this morning fo far obfcured the country, as to render Tuefday 26. 
 the diflant parts altogether imperceptible. At noon, however, the 
 
 F f gtmolphere
 
 ( 2l8 ) 
 
 ^^ ^/ 93' ^ attnofphere became clear, and the eye ranged over a flat, but as ufual, 
 November, fertile range of country, which, as far as I could diftinguifli, abounded 
 in fields of rice : but the broadeft and moft uninterrupted level never 
 prefented a dull or uninterefting profped; in any part of China through 
 which we had paffed ; as the feats of the mandarins and their gardens, 
 with the farm-houfes embofomed in the trees, and the long line of 
 thickets that frequently form the enclofures of the fields, compofe a 
 pidlure which, though it may not be altogether fuited to the canvas, 
 is very pleafing to the eye in its natural appearance. 
 
 The provifions with which the junks had been for fome time fup- 
 plied, were of fo bad a quality that we frequently gave them to the 
 poor people who conducted the vefTels. This day, however, brought 
 us the hope of better fare, by an improvement in the quality of the 
 various articles which were now fent on board : but our table 
 funk again, on the fucceeding day, to that ftate of mediocrity to 
 which we had been habituated fince our departure from Houang- 
 tchew. 
 
 Wednef- The morning was very cold and hazy : — the thermometer funk to 
 ^*^' forty-fix degrees. 
 
 1 faw ieveral fields where the fiirmers were bufy in ploughing: 
 they ufe buffaloes for that purpofe. We were furprifed alfo with a 
 very unufual fight, which was a village of mud houfes or huts, 
 where the appearance of the inhabitants was as wretched as their 
 dvv'ellings. This circumilance I was not able to reconcile to the ge- 
 neral induftry of the inhabitants; and, particularly, in that abundant 
 part of the country, where it appeared, to me at leaft, that indufby 
 could always find a comfortable fupport. 
 
 The fuite this day received from the mandarin a prefent of caddies 
 of tea to every perfon who compofed it.. 
 
 J From-
 
 ( -19 ) 
 
 From the breadth of the ri^rcr, the flrcngth of the current, and ^ ' ^'^^' ^ 
 boifterous wind, the waves run high, with a violent furf. litre the November, 
 ailonifliing navigation of the river was varied by a fleet of filliing- 
 boats, coniifting of at leafl: an hundred fail; and, during the whole of 
 this day's voyage, we continually encountered little fquadrons of 
 them. 
 
 In the afternoon we pafTed the city of Tyaung-Ilii-fcnnau, which 
 is not only one of the largcft places we had feen, but the mofl cotn- 
 modioufly fituated for commerce, being near the conflux of (cvcral 
 rivers; nor can I be accufed, with julHce, of the Icaft exaggeration, 
 when I aflert, that there were not Icfs than a thoufand junks at anchor 
 before it. 
 
 Almoll oppofite to this city, but fituated on another branch of the 
 river, is a large town in an elevated pofition, but not furrounded with 
 a wall, which is called Tfua-feenga. Nor can I refifl making tin; ob- 
 fervation, that, however I might be amufed with the variety of pro- 
 fped:s, and novelty of objcds which continually folicited and rewarded 
 my attention, I never felt an interval of aftonilhment at the villages, 
 towns, and cities, with which, if I may ufe the expreffion, the banks 
 of this river were thronged; as well as the myriads of people that they 
 poured forth as we palTcd by, or anchored near, them. 
 
 The grand mandarin of Tyaung-flii-fenna, came on board the 
 Ambaflkdor's junk, with a numerous train of attendants, to vilit his 
 Excellency. This ceremonial was accompanied with prefcnts of 
 filks, pieces of fine fcarlet cotton, various coloured fluffs, elegant fmtl- 
 ling bottles, pieces of porcelain, and caddies of the fineft tea. 
 
 A village, whofe houfcs are all built with a blue brick, and roofed Friday 19. 
 with pantiles of the fame colour, was the only object in this day's 
 voyage that pofTelTcd any circumflance of novelty. The cities, man- 
 darins palaces, and pagodas, did not differ, as far as we could judge, 
 
 F f 2 from
 
 ;93- 
 
 ( 220 ) 
 
 from thofe which the reader may think, perhaps, have been too often 
 November, defcribed. The profpedt of the country was fometimes interrupted 
 by banks of fand, which continued for many miles on each lide of the 
 river. 
 
 We paffed two brick kilns, with a fmall village around them, built 
 for the accommodation of the workmen employed in the manufad:ory. 
 We could form fome judgment of the trade of the place by the large 
 quantities of bricks formed in regular piles ; both of thofe which were 
 burned, and fuch as were ready for the kiln. This place is called 
 Yu-was, which fignifies, as I was informed, a furnace for xnaking 
 bricks. 
 
 Saturday 30. A city, at the diflance of two miles from the river, furrounded with 
 meadows and orchards, and a very pretty fmall town, with feveral de- 
 tached villages fcattered about it, were the only obje<5ts which gratified 
 our attention in the early part of this day. As we proceeded, the 
 profped: was more delightful than the imagination can conceive ; not 
 merely from the beauty of the objefts, but their contrafl: to each other. 
 On one fide of the river a verdant plain of valT: extent, covered with 
 herds of cattle, and flocks of flieep, ftretched on to a range of lofty 
 mountains that rofe boldly in the horizon : while the whole country, 
 on the oppofite fide of the river, was ihaded with forefls, in whofe 
 openings we could diftinguilh the humble cottage of the peafant, and 
 the painted palace of the mandarin. ' 
 
 Cities and towns, as ufual, continually appeared on each bank of 
 Jihe river ; and having paffed a fmall lake, we came to a village fur- 
 lounded with trees, and diftinguiflicd by the ruins of a pagoda. The 
 part that remained, confifted of three flories, and that which had fal- 
 len, lay in fragments about it. 
 
 The river, which was very unequal in its fize, as well as depth, 
 now expanded into great breadth ; and, as the wind blew frcfli, the 
 
 current
 
 ( 221 ) 
 
 current fwcllcd into what might almofi: be called a rough fca. The , '7 93- ^ 
 waves were fo violent, that the junk in which I failed, wa'^ in great DciauUr. 
 danger of being ovcrfet. 
 
 The thermometer was funk fo low as forty degrees, and the fields were Sunday !► 
 covered with froft. The country was, for fome time, bounded on 
 either fide by beautiful mountains, which funk at length into one un- 
 varying level; where fields of rice, and flourifliing orchards, were 
 thofc branches of cultivation which we could bell diflinguifli, 
 
 I mentioned, on a former occafion, that there were no public 
 cemeteries, or places of burial, but in the vicinity of large towns and 
 cities ; and that, at a diflance from them, the fpot where a pcrfon dies 
 always affords him a grave. Hence it is that the whole country may 
 be confidered as a place of burial ; and we could never turn our eyes 
 to either bank of the river, but fome trophy of death appeared, of rude 
 confl:rudtion, or more elegant form, according to the rank and opu- 
 "lence of the vid:im. Nay, it is not uncommon among the Chincfc, 
 to eredl:, during their fives, thofe fad repofitories which are to contain 
 their remains, when they are no longer numbered among the living-. 
 A greater number than ufual of tlicfe folemn objed:s, and of more 
 diltinguifhed form than are generally fecn, attracted our attention ia 
 this part of our voyage, and fiiggefled fhe preceding obfervations. 
 
 The towni of Taung-fong-au, by which we now failed, has nor- 
 thing to diflinguilli it from thofe which every hour prcfcnts to us, 
 but the pleafing circumftance, which is not common to all of them., 
 of its being furrounded with meadows, groves, and gardens. 
 
 The town of Saunt-yo-tawn, containing feverul elegant p::w 
 godas, which were feen above the groves that furrounded it, was a 
 very pleafing and picfturcfque object. A fucceflion of timber yartiS 
 covered the banks of the river, and a large quantity of timber was. 
 taking in the water before them, \\ hich I unda-fiood to be in a fiaie-
 
 * 793- 
 
 December. 
 
 ( 222 ) 
 
 of preparation for building junks ; a principal bufinefs of the place. 
 It mull, indeed, be a principal bufinefs of the country at large ; 
 for when the internal commerce of China is confidered, and that 
 almoft the whole of it is carried on in thefe veffels, on the numerous 
 rivers and canals which every where interfeft, and form a communi- 
 cation through the greateft part of this extenfive kingdom; the quantity 
 of timber uied, and the number of artificers employed, in the con- 
 f^ruilion of them, muft render any attempt at calculation an idle pre- 
 fumption in a perfon under fuch confined circumftances as myfelf. 
 
 The quantit)^ of gunpowder, expended in paying military refpedl 
 to the diplomatic fleet, has, I fear, been already repeated; but I can- 
 not omit that the Ambalfador received, this day, more than ufual honour 
 from the artillery of May-taungo, a very confiderable fortrefs on the 
 bank of the river. 
 
 On the other fide of -the water is a very ftately pagoda, built on an 
 elevated fpot, with a fmall village fcattered about it. It may be fup- 
 pofed to belong to the mandarin, whofe country refidence is at a fmall 
 diftance from it. 
 
 Art and nature have equally combined to form the fcenery of this 
 charming place; but the moft diftinguifhing circumftance of it is its 
 contiguity to a clufter of three cities, which are not feparated by the 
 interval of a quarter of a mile from each other. Their names are. 
 Loo Dichean, Morrinn Dow, and Chic-a-foo. The latter is built on a 
 large fand bank in tb.e middle of the river, but they are, all of them, 
 more remarkable for their fituation than their extent; or, as it appeared, 
 their commercial importance. Of brick-kilns, indeed, there were plenty 
 about them; and at a fmall diftance I faw vaft columns of fmoke, 
 which rofe, as I was informed, from the furnace of a Porcelain manu- 
 fa(5tory. 
 
 In
 
 ( 223 ) 
 
 In the evening we arrived at the city of Chinga-foo, where, from the 
 crowd of people, the buftic made by the attendants of the mandarin, 
 with the difcharge of artillery, and the firing of rockets, fuch a fccne 
 of noife and confufion took place, as would have alarmed the whole 
 Britirti embafly on its firll arrival in this country. 
 
 Several temporary buildings were crc(fi:ed on purpofe, as it appeared, 
 to difplay a complimentary illumination of great magnificence, which 
 was formed by a profufion of lamps, candles, and flambeaux. 
 
 A prefent of fruit and confedlionary concluded the attentions which 
 were received during our anchorage before this city. 
 
 C H A P..
 
 ( 234- ) 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 The voyage continued ; various circumjlanccs oj it. Pafs the ruins oj 
 an ancient building. Peculiar modes of jiping in China. Extra- 
 ordinary cujiom of employing birds in catching fijh. Pafs federal 
 cities, towns, &c. Arrive at Yoo-jenn-au ; its beautiful ftuation. 
 Ihe junks anchor before Kaung-joufoo. The reception of the Am- 
 bajfador. 
 
 1793- 
 
 December ^ HOUGH this countiy abouuds in a fucceffion of never-ceafing 
 Monday z. variety to the traveller, it will not, I fear, poffefs that pleafing appear- 
 ance in the opinion of the reader; as it is impoflible to convey, by 
 words, that diverfifying charadler to the page of a printed book, which 
 is feen in every leaf of the volume of Nature. 
 
 The flighteft bend of the river prefents a new profpeft, or a new 
 view of what has been already feen. Every city differs from the laft ; 
 no two villages have the fame form ; and a multiplicity of circumftances 
 occur, which occafion decided differences in the landfcape figure of fimilar 
 objedis, that are incommunicable by any art of verbal defcription. 
 Thus, I fear, it will prove, that, while the writer is receiving pleafure 
 from the variety of objedls that occur to his memory, he is preparing 
 duUnefs for the reader by an enumeration of them. 
 
 The weather continued to be cold, — The river, for feveral miles, 
 was flanked on each fide by a range of hills ; but the open coun- 
 try again appeared with its ufual accompanyments of villages, 
 towns, ar^d cities. Thefe, however, were now relieved by the con- 
 trafled appearance of a magnificent wood, or forefl, that fpread over a 
 great extent of country. 
 
 The
 
 ( 225 ) 
 
 The fcafon of the year was now unfavoural^Ic for rural profpc(!ls, , |J'3- 
 but flill the country, ahnofl every hour, presented fcencs that would Dcccu.bci. 
 appear on the canvas with great advantage, if reprefcnted there hy the 
 pencil of a mafter. Though the frequency of pagodas may, fome- 
 times, produce too much uniformity in the profpeCts of China, there 
 are certain fituations which receive a very great addition, taken in a 
 pidurefque view, from that kind of building. 
 
 The city of Fie-cho-jennau was fo obfcured by the plantations of 
 trees about it, that we could not altogether judge of its extent ; though 
 we had now been long enough in China to have other critcrions, by 
 which we could determine on the fize, or commerce of any place, belidcs 
 a perfonal examination of it. The number of junks which were an- 
 chored near it, told the general flatc of its trade, while the crowd 
 of fpedlators who came to gaze at us, or the number of foldiers who 
 were drawn up to falute us, were fuflicient indications of its extent and 
 population. Of Fie-cho-jennau, we had no other means to form an 
 opinion, but they were fufficient to fatisfy us that it was in the firft 
 clafs of Chinefe cities. 
 
 We, this morning, pafled by the ruins of an ancient building; but Tucfdayj^ 
 to what purpofe it had been originally applied, whether as a temple, 
 eredled by fome great mandarin for his private worlhip, or a banquet- 
 ing houfe for his private pleafure, I Ihall not pretend to determine ; 
 though the opinion of thofe I could confult, was in favour of the 
 former fuggeftion. It had once been a confidcrable edifice, and the 
 apartments that ftill remained were ornamented with fliell-work. The 
 dilapidated part of the building formed a large heap of llones and 
 rubbifli. It was called by the people on board the junks, Wha-zaun. 
 
 It is altogether unnecefTary when we enter upon an hilly or moun- 
 tainous country, to mention the addition of pagodas, which never fail 
 to accompany it, as that command of profped; which is pofTefled by 
 elevated iituation, forms the delight of thefe buildings, as the loftincis of 
 
 G g them
 
 »793- 
 
 ( 226 ) 
 
 them marks the dignity or wealth of thofe to whom they be- 
 
 '^ Ion"". 
 
 December. b 
 
 Situation is an objed: of univerfal attention among the Chinefe in 
 eredtino- their places of relidence, or of pleafure. Nor do I recolledt 
 feeino^ any houfe, or palace of a mandaiin, which was not in the heart 
 of a city, that had not been ereded with a palpable view to the local 
 circumftances about it. Sometimes they are feen in vallies, on the 
 declivities of hills, and on the banks of rivers ; while their gardens 
 never fail to have fomething of a romantic character given to them by 
 artificial rocks, or ruins, and the introdudion of grotefque forms of 
 art or nature. 
 
 In the afternoon we faw a great number of fifhermen, who had 
 changed their nets for rods and lines, and were bufily employed in 
 their neceflary bufinels. The modes of catching fifh in the lakes, 
 rivers, and canals of China, are various, and fome of them peculiar to 
 that country. 
 
 In the lakes and large rivers they frequently ufe the kind of baited 
 lines, which are employed on board fhips to catch fifti in the fea. In 
 other parts they ufe nets of the fame kind, and in the fame manner as 
 the fifhermen in Europe. In fome places they ered tall bamboo ftalks 
 in the water, on which they fpread a curtain of flrong gauze, which 
 they extend acrofs certain channels of the rivers ; and fometimes, where 
 there is an opportunity, acrofs the rivers themfelves : this contrivance 
 effedually intercepts the palTage of the fifh, which, from the baits 
 thrown in, or attached to the gauze, are brought there in fhoals; 
 great numbers of boats then refort to thefe places, and the fifhermen 
 are feen to employ their nets with great fuccefs. 
 
 It appeared, however, on inquiry, that the rights of fifhery are as 
 
 jftrenuoufly exerted in China, as in our own country : for we were in- 
 
 4 formed.
 
 ( 227 ) 
 
 formed, that none of thefc arts to get fifh were employed but for the "793- 
 mandarin who poflcfTed the fliorcs of that part of the river, or by Dcccir'>^i, 
 thofc who paid a rent for that privilege. 
 
 The fifh caught in the rivers which wc have navigated, confift 
 chiefly of a kind of whiting, and very fine trout, of an excellent qua- 
 lity and flavour; and they are fo abundant, that though the filhermen 
 are fo numerous, and the demand fo great from the junks, the iormer 
 gain a very good livelihood, and the latter are well fupplicd with a 
 food, whicli the crews of them are faid to prefer. 
 
 But the mofl: extraordinary mode of fifliing in this countr)', afid 
 which, I believe, is peculiar to it, is by birds trained for that purpofc. 
 Nor are hawks, when employed in the air, or hounds, when following 
 a fcenl on the earth, more fagacious in the purfuit of their prey, or 
 more certain in obtaining it, than thefe birds in another element. 
 They are called Looau, and are to be found, as I am informed, in 
 no other country than that in which we faw them. They are about 
 the fize of a goofe, with grey plumage, webbed feet, and have a 
 long and very flender bill, that is crooked at the point. This extra- 
 ordinary aquatic fowl, when in its wild fl:ate, has nothing uncommon 
 in its appearance, nor does it differ from other birds whom nature 
 has appointed to live on the water. It makes its neft among the 
 reeds of the fliore, or in the hollows of crags, or where an ifland 
 offers its fhelter and protedlion. Its faculty of diving, or reniaining 
 under water, is not more extraordinary than many other fowl that prey 
 upon fifli : but the moft wonderful circumftance, and I feel as if I 
 were almofl rifquing my credibility while I relate it, is the docility of 
 thefe birds in employing their natural inftindtivc powers, at the com- 
 mand of the fifliermen who polfefs them, in the fame manner as the 
 hound, the fpaniel, or the pointer, fubmit their refpedive fagacity to 
 the huntfman, or the gunner. 
 
 Gg2 The
 
 ( ^^8 ) 
 J793- The number of thefe birds in a boat are proportioned to the fize of 
 
 Decemb'er. ^^- -^^ ^ Certain fignal they rufli into the water, and dive after the 
 fiili ; and the moment they have feized the prey, they fly with it to 
 their boat ; and though there are an hundred of thefe veffels in the fleet, 
 thefe fagacious birds always return to their own maflers, and amidft 
 the throng of fifliing junks which are fometimes affemblcd on thefe 
 occafions, they never fail to diftinguifli that to which they belong. 
 When the filh are in great plenty, thefe aftonilhing and induftrious 
 purveyors will loon fill a boat with them : and will fometimes be feen 
 flying along with a filh of fuch fize, as to make the beholder, who is 
 unaccuflomed to thefe fights, fufpeft his organs of vifion : nay, it 
 has been fo repeatedly aflerted to me as to prevent any doubt of 
 the information, that, from their extraordinary docility and fagacity, 
 when one of them happens to have taken a fifli which is too bulky 
 for the management of a fingle fowl, the reft will immediately 
 afford their afliftance. But while they are thus labouring for their 
 maflers, they are prevented from paying any attention to them- 
 felves, by a ring which is palTed round their necks; and is fo con- 
 trived as to fruflrate any attempt to fwallow the leaft morfel of what 
 they take. 
 
 We alfo faw another fifliing party, which, though it had more of 
 ridicule than curiofity in it, I cannot forbear to defcribe. It confifted 
 of at leall thirty fifhermen featedlike fo many taylors on a wide board, 
 fupported by props in the river, where they were angling. There 
 was another groupe of thefe people near the fliore, who had embanked 
 a part of the river with fand, where, by raking the bottom with a 
 kind of fliovel, they caught large quantities of fhrimps and other 
 Ihell fifli. 
 
 At an early hour in the afternoon we arrived before the city of Vang- 
 on-chean, where the junks anchored for two hours, and the Ambaf- 
 fador received a vilit from the grand mandarin. This place is of 
 
 confiderabic
 
 ( 229 ) 
 
 confidcFable extent, and covers the whole flat ti)at lies between the >79v 
 river and a range of high mountains. ^ITTXui^ 
 
 The river was for fomc diflance enhvened by a fucccflion of villages Wcdncfday^ 
 on each fide of it. Wc then paffed fome con/iderablc towns, which 
 were fuccecded by a double range of ftecp and craggy hills, with 
 groves and thickets hanging down them ; and wherever there was 
 any flat or level fpot, whether it was towards the bottom of thcfc 
 cliffs, or midway, or on their fummits, an houfe was eredted, which 
 formed the mofl delightful and romantic fcenery that can be con- 
 ceived, 
 
 I have already obferved, that, in this part of our travefs tlirough 
 China, the villages were not only populous, but in general of a 
 pleafnig appearance, and that a clufter of cottages, whofe exterior 
 form betrayed internal wretchednefs, is by no means a common objcd. 
 This morning, however, prefcnted us with one of them, where the 
 habitations were, in a great mcafure, formed of logs of wood ; but 
 the eye had not Icifure to give them more than a glance of 
 commifcration, fo very alluring were the charms of the furrounding 
 country; where, not only the rcfidcnces of pcrfons of difl:indlion, but 
 the village and the farm houfe, are placed in the moft romantic 
 fituations, and individually difplay the mofl: pleaflng pi(ftures, or 
 together,, compofe the magnificence of landfcape. 
 
 The weather was become moderate and plcafant j but the river was Thurfday-. 
 fo flioaly in fome places, andfuch a rocky bo^om in others, that it 
 was confidered as dangerous to proceed after fun-fet. 
 
 The pencil of a maftcr might here communicate fomc general idea 
 of the peculiar beauties of the country through which wc pafl^ed, and 
 the continual variation of it; but it is not in the power of language to 
 convey any corredt image even of the individual objects, much lefs of 
 
 Uie
 
 ( 230 ) 
 
 ^'^''^^J , the pidure formed by the combination of them. When I men- 
 December, tion that I have fecn forefts and gardens, mountains and valhes, the 
 palace and the cottage, the city and the village, the pagoda and 
 the mill, with a variety of fubordinate, but heightening circum- 
 Hanccs, in one view, I certainly inform my readers of the confti- 
 •tuent parts of the profpedl j but to give them the leaft notion of 
 their a6tual arrangement and relative fituation, of their propor- 
 tions and contrail, of their general diftancc from the eye, and com- 
 parative diftance from each other, is beyond any exertion of ver- 
 bal defcription. 
 
 At a large town, called Yoo-jenn-au, which is fituated at the foot 
 of a very high mountain, the river on which we had failed fo long 
 communicates with another equally capacious with itfelf. The fitua- 
 tion of this place may be in fome meafure conceived, when we con- 
 fider its poiition at the influx of two large rivers, both pouring their 
 ftreams from mountainous and rocky chafms, whofe declivities are 
 enriched with woods of various trees, and adorned, where they are 
 capable of receiving ornament from the hand of art, with airy build- 
 ings and hanging gardens. 
 
 My curiofity led me to examine feveral houfes which were building 
 at this place, when I obferved that the fcaffolding before them was 
 conllrudled according to the principles which the builders and brick- 
 layers of our own country employ in fimilar erections. 
 
 We pafled an ifland which divided the river into two equal channels, 
 and which fome mandarin had made the place of occafional retirement. 
 It contained an elegant houfe, with groves and gardens, and formed 
 a charming contrail: to the Ihores of rock and fand, on either fide of 
 the water that furrounded it. 
 
 It
 
 ( 231 ) 
 
 It will be fuflicicnt to add, that the country never appeared in a »79?. 
 more beautiful or romantic drc-rs, by day, fincc we entered it; and the Ceccrabcn 
 city of Kaung-joo-foo prcfented the moft brilhant illumination we had 
 feen by night. 
 
 A prefcnt of fruit, cakes, and confedionary, concluded the many 
 complimentary attentions which the cmbafly received at this place. 
 
 , C H A P,
 
 ( 232 ) 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 iThe voyage continued. The niminer in which the Chinefe water their 
 felds. Sepulchres. Change in the appearance of the country. Leave 
 the river at the city of Naung-aum-foo to travel over land. Circum- 
 Jiances of the journey. Arrive at the city of Naung-chin-oa. Some 
 account of it. The Ambajador re-lmbarks to continue the voyage 
 down another river. 
 
 . ^'^^^' J In this part of the river we faw a great number of the machines at 
 
 ^^T^^e' work with which the Chinefe water their grounds. They confift of 
 
 a wheel made of bamboo, which is turned by the flream, and throws 
 
 the water into large refervoirs, from whence it is let off by fluices into 
 
 channels that interfed the fields. 
 
 The pretty village of Shaiboo, fituated on an high bank of the 
 river, is the only objed that recalls the eye from wandering over the 
 general beauty of the country; till, at the turn of the ftream, the at- 
 tention is folicited by the pagoda of Tau-ay, an ancient and very lofty 
 building, whofe upper ftory being fallen, gives it a more pidurefque 
 appearance, and is, on that account, emblematical of the little ceme- 
 tery beneath it, which contains feveral fepulchres and other memorials 
 of the dead. But whether this fpot fo appropriated belongs to any 
 city or town, which we could not perceive, or is the burying place of 
 any particular family'of diftindion, I could not learn. But though 
 the ground at the foot of this pagoda is afligncd to the dead, the 
 upper part of the building is fo fituated as to delight the living by the 
 view it affords of the furrounding country, and the windings of the 
 river, for a very confiderable diftance, in both diredions of it. 
 
 1 cannot
 
 Ucccmu^r. 
 
 ( 233 ) 
 
 I cannot omit mentioning the town of Whan-ting-taun, not merely 1793. 
 ■becaufe its environs are divided between woods and rice fields, hut, as it is 
 the only place of any importance which we have fecn in our voyage of 
 this day. Villages were, as ufual, in frequent fucceflion; and among many 
 of them whicli wore the appearance of induftry and comfort, we were 
 again diflatisficd with a coJledion of huts, tliat did not appear to be 
 capable of prefcrving their inhabitants from the inclemency of winter, 
 •or the heat of fummer. 
 
 This was the moft extraordinary day which we had yet known in Saturday 7 
 China, as we faw neither city, town, or village, in the courfe of it, 
 A few farm houfes, with their orchards, were the only habitations 
 that we faw in the extent of beautiful country through which we 
 paiTed : nor could I, by any inquiries, in my power to make, difcover 
 -whether it arofc from accident, or any local circumflanccs, that the 
 banks of the river, which had fo long teemed with cities, towns, and 
 villages, with palaces and pagodas, Ihould at once become fo barren 
 of them. 
 
 But though we were, for fome time, deprived of the wonders of 
 population, a very fingular and curious objed: accompanied a confi- 
 dcrable part of this day's voyage, to continue, in fome degree, the 
 exercife of our aflonilhment. 
 
 It was a very lofty, perpendicular, natural mound of red earth, that 
 embanked one fide of the river, whofe naked furface was marked in a 
 very extraordinary manner by horizontal veins or ilripes of ftonc, in a 
 Jiredion as perfedlly redilinear, as if they liad been made with the 
 line or the rule ; and which continued without any apparent deviation, 
 from this wonderful regularity, during a courfe of feveral miles. 
 
 The river was now become fo fliallow, that it was necefi!ary to 
 (changc feveral of the large jiinks for fuch as would draw Icfs \\'ater, a 
 •cixcumftance which occafioned fome delay ; and it was not till eight 
 
 H h o'clock
 
 ( 234 ) 
 1/9,^ o'clock that we palled the only inhabited place of this day*s voyage ;: 
 December, 'ind which might now have el'caped our notice, if the foldicrs of the 
 Ciintonment had not exhibited their paper lanterns, and difcharged a. 
 few voIJies of refpcd; towards us.- 
 
 Sundays. The weathcr has, for fome time, been temperate and pleafant : 
 
 the country alio has gradually loft its fertile appearance, and is now 
 become mountainous and barren : fome of the mountains, indeed, 
 are covered with wood, but the furface of the earth has here loft all 
 that richnefs which had fo long cloathed it. The population of the 
 country may be fuppofed to have fullered a proportionate diminution j. 
 but the villages, though they are more thinly fcatlered than they have 
 hitherto been, become more pidturefque objects both.froni their form 
 and fituation. 
 
 The high grounds near the river, in many places, lofe their abrupt 
 and rugged appearance beneath the verdure of dwarf-trees of various 
 kinds, among which the camphire tree is faid to predominate. 
 
 But though the profpedt was now became a mere fucceffion of rude 
 mountain and barren valley, it was fometimes enlivened by a pagoda 
 in the diftance, while the village flill continued to animate the banks 
 of the river. 
 
 We now obferved feveral fepulchres or funeral monuments that had 
 been ere<5l;ed in various parts of the mountains, with excavations in the 
 rocks beneath them to receive the dead. That an amiable fuperftition 
 might wifli to confign the remains of the parent or the child, the friend 
 or the relation, to fuch a fepulchral retreat, elevated as it were above the 
 world, and, as it might be thought by the Pagan mythology, nearer 
 to that heaven, where their fpirits were deftined to wing, or had 
 already taken flight, is not inconfiftent with the beft feelings of nature 
 and religion. But fome of thefe places facrcd to the dead appeared to 
 
 us,
 
 ( 235 ) 
 us, at leaft, to be in fuch fituations, as to render the attempt to gain n'n- 
 acccfs to them, a circumfluncc of no Iniall hazard to the living. UccLinbcr. 
 
 About fun-fet we paflcd a large town called Syn-cham-au, wiiich is 
 fituated on a fmall plain between the river and fomc high mountains 
 covered with wood ; nor is this romantic appearance lefTcncd by a large 
 pyramidical rock, with a very lofty pagoda on the top of it. 
 
 Two confidcrable towns and feveral villages, with their junks, Monday 9. 
 were the principal objed:s of this day's voyage; till we arrived in the 
 evening at the city of Naung-aum-foo. As the embalTy was to make 
 a journey of one day over land from this place, preparations were made 
 accordingly under the ufual directions of the attendant mandarin. 
 
 The Ambaflador ordered four dollars to be given to the crews of the Tucfday 10. 
 refpedtive junks ; and, after an hafty breakfaft, tlic fuite followed the 
 baggage, which was already fent on Ihoxe. 
 
 The landing-place was adorned with a grand triumphal arch, 
 decorated with (ilk and ftreamers of various colours. Here I was 
 prefented with a ticket, the meaning of which I did not comprcheitd. 
 I then proceeded along a kind of platform, covered with fine matting; 
 its roof and railing were ornamented with ribbons and lilk, in the lame 
 manner as the triumphal arch, and a range of lamps were fufpendeJ 
 in a very elegant form on each fide of it. 
 
 This platform led to a circular court, furrounded by a fcreen of 
 filk, which contained, as well as I could calculate from the view of 
 them, between two and three hundred horfes, attended by their 
 owners, and from which every perfon in the AmbafTaJor's retinue 
 was at liberty to chufe a btaft for the journey of the day; as from the 
 badnefs of the roads, and the length of the way, it v\as ordered that 
 ihe whole fuite, except the Ambaflador, Sir George Staunton, and 
 
 H h 2 Mr.
 
 C 236 ) 
 
 1793- Mr. Plumb, fllourJ proceed on horl'eback, I accordingly chofe ao; 
 December, horle, for which I was obh'ged to deliver the ticket already mentionedo 
 It was a very wild and mettlefome flecd, which, on my firft mount- 
 ing him, was lb reftive and unmanageable, that I w.ilhcd to make an- 
 exchange ; but I had delivered my ticket, and was obliged to abide by. 
 my choice, fuch as it was. 
 
 When all the arrangements were fettled, the horfes fclecfted, and the 
 whole fuite transformed into a body of cavalry, his Excellency, with. 
 Sir George Staunton, and Mr. Plumb, came from the junk to their, 
 palanquins, and the cavalcade commenced, attended by a confidcrable. 
 body of Chinefe foldiers. 
 
 Naung-aum-foo is a walled city of confidcrable extent, bui!t on. a. 
 r'.fing ground above the river, and is commanded, both behind, and on 
 ' the oppofite fide of the water, by lofty hills ; on one of which is {ten a 
 folitary pagoda. Its fuburbs are large, and, from the number of fmall 
 junks, fuited to the fliallownefs of the ftream that waflies its banks, it 
 may be efteemed a place of fome commercial charadler. 
 
 In about half an hour we had got clear of the city, when every ex- 
 terior objed was loft in attending to the peculiarities of our own ap- 
 pearance. Such a troop of equeftrians are not often feen in China, or 
 any other part of the world. The gentlemen of the fuite, with the 
 niechanics, foldiers, and fervants, were all on horfeback; many of 
 whom were but indifferent riders, and fome of tliem now found them- 
 felves obliged to ride for the iirft time. The horfes themfelves, on 
 fetting out, were alfo very frolickfome and ungovernable; fo that the 
 ridicule which attached itfelf to our general appearance, and the diver- 
 lion which fucceffively occurred from the cries of alarm,, the awkward- 
 ncfs of attitude, and the various other circumftances, which the reader, 
 without having been in China, may very readily conceive, ferved to. 
 
 amufe
 
 ( 2.37 ) 
 amufc tlif tcdioufiicrs of travelling through a mountainous and unpro- '793- 
 dudtivc country. December. 
 
 At noon wc came to the foot of a mountain, which was fo ftcep as 
 to make it neccflary for us to difmount, and lead our horfes over it, 
 being an afcent of two miles, which required an hour to mailer it. 
 Wc paffed feveral villages, and dined at the town of Lee-cou-au, 
 ivhere a confiderable body of foldiers, in armour, lined tlic road as 
 wc paflcd ; and Doth on entering, as well as quitting the lines, the 
 AmbciTador was laluted with the difcharge of three pieces of artillery. 
 This military parade, with the variety of colours, which never failed 
 to accompany the leaft appearance of foldiery, had a very pretty 
 cfFed. 
 
 The women, in this part of our journey, were either educated with 
 lefs referve, or allowed a greater fhare of liberty, than in the coun- 
 try through which we had lately paffed, as we frequently ftw them 
 indulging their curiofity in obferving fuch a new and extraordinary 
 fight as we muft exhibit. 
 
 rhave already mentioned that we had, for fome time, exchanged a 
 fertile for an unprofitable foil; and all the fplendor of cultivation, for 
 the barren mountain. The eye was, however, fometimes relieved by 
 large patches of camphire, and other medicinal, trees ; at leaft, as I was 
 informed by thofe who might be fuppofed to be able to inftrudl me. 
 
 The fun had fet, when wx arrived at the gates of the city of Naung- 
 ehin-oa. It ftandsin a plain, furrounded on diree fides by mountains; 
 on the fourth and to the fouth, flows the river on which we were to 
 continue our voyage. It is a place of fome extent and confiderable 
 commerce. The ftreets, like thofe of almoft all the towns we have 
 fcc;i m China, are very narrow, but they have the advantage of being 
 ■well paved, and well kept in the material article of clcanlinefs, The 
 houfes are chiefly of wood, and their general height ib two ftories. 
 
 Though
 
 ( 2;3S ) 
 '7<5.v Though elegance, either interior or exterior, is not the pecuHar clia- 
 reccmbcr. rader of this. place, fome of the {hops were gilt and varniflied in a 
 manner that might bring them within that denomination. At evesy 
 door in the flreets, after fun-fet, a large paper lamp is hungup, and 
 forms a very pretty illumination, Thefe lamps difplay the name of 
 the perfon who lives in the houfe, his trade, and the articles in which 
 he traffics. The palaces of the mandarins arc alfo ornamented with 
 lamps, according to the dimcniioiis of the building, or the rank of their 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Theftreets were lined with fdldiers to reprefs the curiofity of the 
 people, which would, otherwife, have impeded our paflage ; and it 
 v/as near feven o'clock when we arrived at the palace of the grand 
 ■mandarin of the city. It is a very noble refidence, compofed of vari- 
 ,ous courts, and feveral ranges of apai'tments. In fpacious open galle- 
 ries, on each fide of the firft court, tables were plentifully fpread with 
 •tea, meats, of various kinds, and fruits, for the xefrefliment of the infe- 
 rior orders of the fuite ; while other galleries, that opened on the inte- 
 .rior courts, were magnificently illuminated, and prepared for the higher 
 .department of it. In fliort, throughout the palace, there was fuch a 
 profufion.of lamps and other lights, as, in my unexaggerated opinion, 
 would ferve the palace of an European fovcreign for a month. 
 But without this obfervation, which, 1 beheve to be founded in fad:, 
 it muil have already appeared, in the courfe of this Narrative, that 
 illumination is a very principal feature of Chinefe magnificence. 
 
 The Ambafiador and Sir George Staunton preferred going to the 
 jurtks inftead of pafTing a night in the palace ; and, accordingly^, 
 after having taken the refrelhment prepared on their arrival, they repair- 
 ed to them. The reft of the embaffy remained on fliore, and apart- 
 ments were afligned them for their repofe. 
 
 The baggage which was brought all the way from Naung-aum-foo 
 on mens Ihouldcrs, arrived by degrees ; but the whole of it hat! not 
 
 reached
 
 ( 239 ) 
 
 reached its deflination till nine o'clock; when all the mandarin's 1793. 
 principal fcrvants affifted in dcpofiting it in a long gallery, where it Deccmba. 
 was arranged with the utmofl regularity; each package having a ticket 
 parted on it, correfponding with the junk to which it was to be re-, 
 moved on the following day. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 ( 240 } 
 
 C H A P. XXIIL 
 
 ^he fu'ile embarks on board the junks ; the voyage renewed; circum- 
 Jlances of it. A curious pagoda, Defcriptlon of fepidchres. Vafl 
 rafts of timber. Embark in larger junks. Pafs fame curious moun- 
 tains; a defcriptlon of them. Extraordinary Illumination. 
 
 December. At an early hour of the morning the baggage was put on board the 
 Wednei- jm^kg^ with a regularity, as well as difpatch, that cannot well be de- 
 fcribed. There was a fufficient depth of water in this river to bring 
 the junks clofe to the quay; fo that the coolies, of which there were a 
 great number, a(5ling under the orders of the mandarin and his fer- 
 vants, and guarded by foldiers, foon transferred every article that be- 
 :longed to the embafl}' on board the veflels to which it was Specifically 
 airitrned. 
 
 'to' 
 
 The junks, to which we were now removed, were of lefs dimcnfions 
 than thofe we had left ; in conformity to the navigable Hate of the 
 river, which only admitted velTels of fmall burthen. 
 
 About eleven o'clock the .fuite were all on board, and the whole fleet 
 ready for failing. We accordingly renewed our voyage, and began 
 .it by palling under a wooden bridge of feven arches, or rather, it ac- 
 curacy of expreflion ihould be confidered as indifpeniable, of fevcu 
 intervals. Thefe intervals are formed by ftrong Hone pillars, built 
 in the water, and overlaid with planks, guarded by a double rail- 
 ing. This ftnidlure ftretches acrofs the river, to form a comnuuiica- 
 .tion betweiyi thole parts of the fuburbs of Naung-chin-oa, which are 
 .divided by it. Forts garrifoncd with troops, and well fupplied with 
 ^irtilkry, guarded either end ,of it j nor was the ileet unnoticed by 
 a. them ;
 
 ( 241 ) 
 
 riicm ; as in pafling the bridge it was honoured hy tlic parade of the '70<- 
 one, and the dilchargc of the other. The city iffelf is alfo well de- D;;ctiiil(ci . 
 fended by walls, which arc, at leaft, thirty feet in height, towards the 
 river, with ramparts that take tlic whole circuit of the place, and 
 fquare towers which are not confined to the gates, but appear to rife 
 above the walls in other advantageous fituations. 
 
 t>^ 
 
 At a fmall diflance from the bridge the river divides into two 
 branches, that take almoft oppofite diredlions : on that whofe flrcani 
 bore us along, we faw a large quantity of fmall timber in raits. 
 
 In the afternoon we pafleda pagoda, fituated on a bank of the river, 
 which was of a more fmgular appearance than any of the great num- 
 ber of that kind of edifice which we had fccn in our travels through the 
 country. It confifted of five ftories, which terminated in a flat roof, 
 with trees growing on it. The body of the building, from many parts 
 of which alio llirubs appeared to fprout forth, was covered with a 
 white plaifler, and decorated with red paint in its angles and intcr- 
 ftices. 
 
 The country flill remained barren and mountainous ; nor was its 
 rude and dreary afpecfl enlivened by any appearance of cultivation. A 
 confiderable town called Chang-fang, was the only place we palled in 
 the ihort voyage of this day. 
 
 The natural f\ice of the country was flill dreary; and its artificial Thurfdayia; 
 circumftanccs did not enliven it by their charad:er. The mountains, 
 as we paffed by them, exhibited a great number of thofc fepulchres of 
 which fome dcfcription has been already given. Thcfe, as the former, 
 were in fituations not eafily acceflible, and varied in their appearance, 
 as may be fuppofed, according to the wealth or dignity of the pcrfon 
 whole remains they already contained, or were, hercatlcr, dcflined to 
 inclofe. 
 
 I i When
 
 I- , 
 December. 
 
 ( 242 ) 
 
 When M-e mentioned tliefe folemn repofitories in a former page, 
 the thought fuggefted itfelf, that fuperftition might carry the dead to 
 thole hioh places, on the lame principle that idolatry has raifed its 
 altars there ; but, when it is confidered that the dreary, uncultivated 
 mountain is better fuited to the charader of the fepulchre j and that 
 there is, perhaps, fomething confolatory in the idea of that fecurity 
 which belongs to thefc awful, and almoll inacceffible folitudes; we may 
 probably approach nearer to the real motives of conligning the dead to 
 thefe elevated tombs. 
 
 The general conflrudlion of them appears to be the fame : it con- 
 fills of an excavation in the mountain, chifelled out in the form of a 
 large niche, which is then paved, and concealed by a wall with an 
 ornamented door. Some of thefe places are covered with domes i 
 from others pyramidical forms fpring up, and the facades of them, 
 were, as far as I could diftmguillr, painted of a lead colour, with 
 a white border. 
 
 Thefe receptacles of the dead were fucceeded by few habitations of 
 the living that have any claim to particular notice or obfervation, till 
 we came to the large and populous village of Ty-ang-koa. Here we 
 fiw a vaft length of timber in rafts floating down the river, witK 
 feverai bamboo huts erected on it, and the families belonging to 
 them. Great numbers of people were alfo employed in bringing 
 timber to the water lide, either on their fhoulders, or in v/aggons j 
 ^vhiie others were occupied in forming rafts. 
 
 The countr)' flill retains its barren afpedl, though a pagoda was 
 occalionally feen to grace the fummits of the mountains. 
 
 Friday 13. We this day paffcd a confiderable town called Tya-waung, part of 
 
 which was in ruins ; and, a little further down the river, we came to 
 
 the city of Shaw-choo ; the fuburbs of which extend to the water 
 
 iidc, and where the houfes are built in fuch a manner as to be in con- 
 
 4 tinual
 
 ( 243 ) 
 tlnual danger of falling on the hcaiis of their inhabitants, an J in- '''^•'• 
 volving them in one common deftrudion. A wooden frame work D'.i.cii,b,.i-. 
 refting fomctimcs upon a foundation of clay or ftone, with a few 
 ilendcr uprights, are the only fupports of thofe habitations that 
 ranged along the fhorc ; where frequent ruins manifefted the folly as 
 well as the frailty of fuch architeiflure. 
 
 The fleet came to an anchor at the extremity of the city, before tlic 
 palace of die grand mandarin, which was finely decorated with trium- 
 phal arches : a platform was alfo eredled from the banks of the river 
 to the houfc, to accommodate the Ambaffador, if his Excellency 
 had found it convenient to go on fliore. The foldiers belonging to 
 the mandarin were alfo drawn up in due form, and gave the ufual 
 falutc. 
 
 At this place large junks were prepared to receive the cmbafTy ; and, 
 in a very fhort time, the whole I'uitc and the baggage was removed on 
 board them. Our accommodations were accordingly increafed in 
 proportion to the fuperior dimenfions of the veflels that now con- 
 tained us. 
 
 In the evening the grand mandarin fent the fuite a very handfome 
 prefent of China, together with a large fupply of provifions ; wc alfo 
 received, at a later hour of the evening, a large parcel of tobacco, 
 fome ducks cured in the manner of hams, of a very delicate flavour, 
 together with a conliderablc quantity of dried fifli. 
 
 The voyage was this day agreeably varied by an occafional, though 
 not very frequent patch of cultivated ground, which was now become, 
 in fliape, fize, or lituation, a cheering objedt. 
 
 The weather was moderate and plealant ; and, though there ap- Saturday i4» 
 peared a very fmall proportion of cultivated land, the mountains were 
 fometimes clothed with wood. The village of Shoong-koang, lltuatcd 
 
 li 2 
 
 on
 
 ( 244 ) 
 1793- on a plain, with the river before, and an amphitheatre of mountains 
 ^^^i^i^er. behind, it, drew our attention, as a very pleafuig objed:, and furprifed 
 us with the number of inhabitants which it poured forth, to fee the 
 Grangers pafs. 
 
 I have already mentioned that fmall portions of cultivated ground 
 now began, though very rarely, to make their appearance : this cir- 
 cumftance, hovvcver, had no influence on our fupplies ; as the pro- 
 vifion-boats of to-day brought us the fame indifferent eatables which 
 we had, for fome time, been accuftomed to receive. 
 
 In the evening, the hills gradually approached the river, till, af 
 len2;th, they clofcd upon it, and formed a rude and lofty barrier, 
 which, at once, confined and obfcured its channel. This fcenery con- 
 tinued for a confiderable diftance, as it were, on purpofe to lead the 
 eye to a mountain of fuch ftupendous magnitude, as the defcription 
 which 1 am about to give, will not be able to convey, 1 fear, to the 
 mind of my readers. It was fo late as feven o'clock at night before 
 we arrived at the commencement of it ; but the moon Ihone in all her 
 fplendour, and enabled the eye to trace every part of this enormous 
 objecft with lefs diltindlnefs, perhaps, as to minute parts, but with 
 better effed: as to its magnificent outline. 
 
 This mountain rifcs from the river to the perpendicular height of at 
 leaft three hundred yards. The hce it prcfents towards the water is 
 divided between bare rock and fliaggy foliage : the upper part ap- 
 peared, in fome places, to projed over the river, and offer a moff 
 tremendous thape to the voyagers who fail beneath it : when, there- 
 ' fore, to fuch an elevation of folid rocky mountain, with its rugged 
 bafe, and craggy fummits, is added the extent of near two miles of 
 lengthening precipice, fome fitint notion may be entertained of this 
 ftupendous object. 
 
 Its
 
 ( 245 ) 
 Its termination is equally abrupt with its beginning; and all its '791- 
 parts iupport the lavage grandeur of the whole. On the extreme December, 
 point, as we palTed down the river, a pyramidical rock appeared to 
 fpring up to a confidcrable height above the edge of the precipice, and 
 iinilhed in a peak. 
 
 This immenfe fliapc is feparated by an intervening plain, that ex- 
 tends to the foot of diflant mountains, from another enormous rock; 
 which, though of different form, and lefs extent, poirdTes the fame 
 awful and majcftic charader. It rifes with a Ik'cp but gradual afcent 
 from the river to a certain height ; when it ihoots up, as it were, in a 
 bold, unvarying, perpendicular elevation, to the clouds, affording 
 another vaft example of the fublime in nature. 
 
 As a range of hills may be fiid to condu(fl us along the river to 
 thcfe ftupcndous objcdls, a fucceflive boundary of the fame kind con- 
 tinued during a courfe of feveral miles alter we had left them. But 
 it was the peculiar oflicc of this extraordinary night to awaken our 
 afloniflimcnt by the grand exertions of art, as well as by the enormous 
 works of nature ; for, at the conclufion of this chain of hills, that 
 had fo long excluded any view into the country, we were furprized 
 with a line of light that extended for feveral miles over m.ountains 
 and vallics, at fome dillance from the river, and formed one unin- 
 tcruptcil, blazing outline, as they rofc or funk in the horizon. 
 
 In fome parts of this brilliant, undulating line, it was varied or 
 thickened, as it appeared, by large bands or groups of torches ; and, 
 on the moft confpicuous heights immenfe bonfires threw their flames 
 towards the clouds. Nor was this all, for the lights did not only 
 give the outline of the mountain, but fomctimes lerpentifed up it, 
 and connedcd, by a fpiral Ibeam of liglu, a large fire at the bottom, 
 N\ith that which reddened the fummit. 
 
 The
 
 ( 246 ) 
 
 i;9j- The number of lanterns, lamps, or torches employed on this occa- 
 
 December. fion, muft have been beyond all calculation, as the two extremities 
 of the illuminated fpace, taken in a ftrait line, and without eftimating 
 the Unkings of the vallies, or the inequality of the mountain tops, 
 could not exclude a lefs diftance from each other than three miles. 
 Whether thefe lights were held by an army of foldiers, and a very 
 large one would have been ncceflary on the occafion, or were fixed in 
 the ground, I could not learn ; but it was certainly the mofl: magnifi- 
 cent illumination ever feen by the European traveller, and the moft 
 fplendid compliment ever paid to the public dignity of an European 
 Ambaflador. Not only a vaft range of countr)^ but the courfe of the 
 river, for feveral miles, received the light of day from this artificial 
 blaze. Succeffive difcharges of artillery were, at regular diftances, ad>« 
 ded Id the honoiu: of this amazing and mofl fuperb fpedacle. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 ( 247 ) 
 
 CHAP. xxrv. 
 
 The voyage continued. ' Dtfcriplion of a curious nieunln'in. Furious 
 circumjiances of the river, j^rrive at the city of Tuyng-van-vean. 
 Pafs numerous villages, tozvns, &c. jlnchor before the city of "Tfyn- 
 iian. yJrrive at Canton. Formalities on the occafion, itc. 
 
 Jr\.T fevcn o'clock this morning the whole fleet came to an anchor ^"■^''• 
 
 beneath a mountain, which is confidercd by tlie Chincfe, in rcfpedl to Dccembc 
 
 its elevation, figure, and extent, as one of the natural wonders of their "'^'^>'' 
 country. It is called Koan-yeng-naum. 
 
 The grand mandarin, who had the cajrc of conducting the embafTy, 
 with that attention which diftinguiflied e^ery part of his official duty, 
 had ordered the fleet to flop in this place, 'in order to give the Ambaf- 
 fador, and his retinue, an opportunity of indulging their curiofity, by 
 taking a view of this extraordinary mountain. 
 
 It rifes perpendicularly from the water to an amazing height, and 
 terminates in a peak. Vafi: pieces of the rock projed: from the face of 
 it in fuch a manner, as to have a moll tremendous and threatenin<^ 
 afpe(5t ; nor is it cafy to perfuade onefelf, on looking up, that they will 
 not inflantly fall and fill up the channel of the river beneath them. 
 
 Several large caverns are among the curious circumflanccs of this 
 mountain. The principal of them is about forty feet above the river, 
 and the paflage to it confifis of a flight of fifty fleps cut out of the 
 rock, and guarded by a rail, which are over-fhadowcd by a projedliorx 
 of the mountain. A door, prettily ornamented with painting, opens 
 into a handfome room of about forty feet in circumference, and nine 
 
 feet
 
 Decembei'. 
 
 ( 248 ) 
 
 1793. feet in height, which contains a facred image, to w honi the Chinefe, 
 on their entrance, pay their adorations. There is alfo a window, 
 chifelled through the ftone, with a balcony before it, from whence 
 there is a dehghtful profpeil: of the river. From this chamber we 
 afcended, by an artificial ftaircafe, to two other apartments of the fame 
 fize with the former, and fitted up in a manner fuitcd to the charadcr 
 of the place. 
 
 Thefe rooms were excavated at the cxpenfe of the mandarin to 
 whom the mountain belongs, and mufl have been a work of incredible 
 labour. At the foot of the fleps, an arch had been eredcd, with the 
 iifual decoration of filk and ribbons, of various colours. 
 
 Though the country ftill continued to be rude and uncultivated, it 
 was, occafionally, varied by large woods, that hung down the fteeps, 
 or thickened in the vallies. The ranges of mountains alfo, that 
 branch off from Koan-yeng-naum, take fuch different diredions, as to 
 forma variety of grand, and even fublime, picftures of nature. 
 
 At noon the fleet anchored, for a fliort time, before the city of Shizing- 
 ta-heng ; fituated on the upper part of an inclined plain, that advances 
 with a fcarce perceptible afcent from a large fandy beach of the river, 
 to the foot of the mountains that rife behind it. This plain is alfo 
 adorned with the mofl beautiful trees, fo that the view may be fup- 
 pofed to confiff of a river in the fore-part of it, a fine plain, covered 
 with plantations, ftretching away from the banks, and a large city be- 
 yond it, backed by a bold, unequal range of mountains. When to 
 thefe circumlfances are added, the woods on the oppofite fide of the 
 river, and the magnificent pagoda which rifes before them; the beauty 
 of the landfcape may be conceived without any very uncommon 
 ftretch of the imagination. 
 
 The river, in a very winding courfc, now afforded but little variety. 
 The fame lofty barriers continued to confine its courfc j and where a 
 
 cafual
 
 ( 249 ) 
 
 cafual opening fuffcrcd the eye to advance beyond rhcm, it looked to- 1793. 
 wards nothing more than fimilar objcds, with no other ci re um (lances *D^.'^ib^ 
 of variation but fiich as might be fuppofcd to arifc from tlic pecuhari- 
 ties of Jight and fludovv, and the diminution of diftancc. 
 
 We not only obfcrved, but alfo heard the labours, of large bodies of 
 people, who were employed in blowing up certain parts of the rocks, to 
 obtain tliat ftonc with which tlie Chinefc form their pavements, whe- 
 ther for their houfcs, courts, or public ways. 
 
 Beneath one of thefe mountains was a large village, which had a 
 very mean appearance; and, as I afterwards learned, was entirely in- 
 habited by the people employed in blowing up rocks, and working 
 quarries, that were in the neighbourhood of it. 
 
 Several fpircs of fmoke, afccnding from the mountains, attradcd 
 our attention ; when, on making inquiry concerning the fires that 
 occafioned them, we found that it was a procefs preparatory to agri- 
 culture; by burning the heath on certain parts of thefe elevated fitu- 
 ations, in order to commence the experiment of cultivation. 
 
 The evening of this day was aJfo cheered by an illumination of the 
 diftant hills ; and though it did nat, in any degree, equal, either in ex- 
 tt-nt or fplendor, that which had fo lately excited our aftonillamcnt, it 
 had a very fingular cffe<it, and exhibited a very plcafing appearance. 
 
 Rugged and flcep rocks, fome of which were covered with !\Ionday i&, 
 wood, flill continued to inclofe, on either fide, the channel of the 
 river. Among them there role a large mountain, fliaded by an hanging 
 forcfl, which was not only a very grand objedl in itfelf, but ^\•as alfo 
 accompanied with circumflances that enlivened and adorned it. At 
 the foot of it a road had been cut out of the folid rock, and to commu- 
 nicate with it a large arch of flone ftrotchcs acrofs a deep chafm. In 
 the center of the wood, there is the palace of a mandarin, furioundcj 
 
 K k with
 
 ( 250 ) 
 
 with detached offices, aud at fome fmall diftance a temple, which be- 
 lon"^s to it, and contains the image which is the ufual objed; of reh- 
 gious worfhip. There are feveral burying places in different p^rts of 
 the wood, which are the maufoleums of the mandarin's family to whom 
 the palace belongs. It is called Tre-liod-zau. 
 
 This magnificent objed:, which, on a particular turn of the river^ 
 prefented itfelf in charming perfpedive, is very much heightened by 
 a contrafted fucceffion of bare and barren mountains. 
 
 This rude and rugged fcciicry, at length, began to fubfide ; when 
 a rich, fertile level opened again upon us; and after we had beerk 
 accullomed for feven days, to the bleak and barren appearances of 
 nature, the trancjuil fcenes of Cultivation afforded a moft refrefliing^ 
 prolpecl. 
 
 We now paffed the city of Tflng-yan-yenn, a place of great extent 
 and commerce. It is furrounded by a wall, whofe gates are flanked 
 by ftrong towers, and which extends near three miles along the river ^ 
 but of its breadth we were prevented from forming any accurate judg- 
 ment, by the intervening groves, which appear before, and rife above^ 
 the walls. The fuburbs had a mean appearance; and the houfes 
 projedled over the water in the fame infecure and alarming m-anner, 
 as I have already defcribed: a mode of building, common to all 
 towns, and leffer places, which are fituated on the banks of rivers. 
 The great number of junks which were here at anchor announced the 
 commercial ffate of the city ; and the fucceffion of timber yards, all 
 ffored with great quantities of planks, and wood for every kind of 
 conftrudion, marked a principal article of its trade. Several regiments 
 of foldiers were djrawn up on the beach, with a train of artillery : they 
 were accompanied with triumphal arches, decorated in the fame pretty 
 and fanciful manner as has already been told of other complimentary 
 credions of the fame kind. 
 
 From
 
 December. 
 
 ( =5' ) 
 
 From this place the river takes its courfc in a flrait, undcviating i7<)r 
 vlircdiion for three miles, between a very fertile and lii<;h]y cultivated 
 country, in which rice fields appeared to abound. The mountain-?, 
 which fo lately rofc on the banks, feemcd now to have retired, as it 
 were, into the diftance, and ranged along the horizon. 
 
 In this afternoon a very ferious accident happened, which might 
 have produced the mofl fatal confcquenccs : it was no lefs than a 
 fire in one of the inferior junks ; and, if great exertions had not been 
 made, the veffel would have been very foon confumed. It was fup- 
 pofed to have been occafioned by a fpark falling unobfcrved from a 
 tobacco pipe, which, trifling as it was, threatened the junk with irre- 
 iiftiblc conflagration. 
 
 The whole fleet experienced the good cfFc(5ls of the rich and fertile 
 country which we now entered, by the improvement that was ex- 
 perienced in every article of our daily fupplies. We this day received 
 a large quantity of excellent provifions, with a jar of a very pleafant 
 liquor, which is extracted from the fugar cane, and rcfcmbles in 
 flavour the rum fhrub, fo well known in our own country. 
 
 The ruins of a pagoda, and fome of thofe fepulchres which I have 
 already mentioned, gave a pidurefque appearance to the fpot where 
 they had been creded, and were the concluding objeds of this day's 
 voyage. 
 
 Tlie weather was warm and pleafant, and the country in a fine ftatc Tuefday i^ 
 ©f cultivation ; while the river increafed in breadth, and admitted junks 
 of a larger fize than we had yet feen. 
 
 At eleven o'clock this morning we paflld the large village of Ouz- 
 chouaa, with a crowd of manufadlories in its neighbourhood : 
 whether they were in tlie porcelain or iron fervice, I could not dif- 
 
 K k 2i cover ;
 
 ( 252 ) 
 
 J '" 93' ^ cover ; but the fmoke of their furnaces told us that fire was a prlncipai 
 
 December, operator in them. 
 
 As we proceeded, the country increafed in beauty on both fides of 
 the river, and foon became a continued chain of pretty villages, 
 fruitful fields, and handfome houfes. 
 
 In the afternoon the provifion junks flill improved in their car- 
 goes, and brought us an abundant fupply of excellent provifions and' 
 fruits, with a quantity of Samptchoo, a liquor which has been al- 
 ready mentioned. 
 
 At eight o'clock in the evening the fleet anchored before a very 
 'large and commercial city, called Sangs-wee-yenno, when the Am- 
 baffador was falutcd with an amazing difcharge of artillery from all 
 quarters of it. This mark of rcfped: was accompanied by every other 
 demonftration of regard that could be fhewn on the occafion : trium- 
 phal arches appeared with all their gaudy decorations ; temporary 
 pagodas wereereded to heighten the artificial fcenery ; and a platform, 
 fuch as has been already defcribed in former parts of our voyage, w'as 
 prepared to accommodate his Excellency, if it fhould be liis wiHi t« 
 vifit the grand mandarin : to thefe circumflances may be added all 
 that illumination could do, in a country where that fpecies of fpku- 
 dor is fa well underflood and in fuch continual pradice; fo that 
 fome notion may be formed of the manner in which the fleet was 
 received by this city. 
 
 VVednef- In the courfe of this morning we pafTed feveral very large and corrr- 
 
 *^y '2. mere ial towns ; and.if any judgment could be formed from the unceafing 
 difcharge of artillery, it might be fuppofed that a chain of forts 
 \incd the fhore : if we are alfo juflified in drawing a conclufion 
 from the numbers of people on the banks of the river, and in velTek 
 on the water, we might believe that, from the time we failed, which was 
 at fo early an hour as two o'clock^ the fleet was pafTing for upwards 
 
 cf
 
 ( 2%3 ) 
 
 of two hours through the middle of an Immcnfc city, which had 'T)y 
 poured forth all its inhabitants to catch fuch an impcrfedt view of us, 'i>cc<^b<;r.' 
 as the early part of the morning would allow. 
 
 At the dawn of day, we came to the cily of Tayn-tfyn-tau, a 
 pl^ce of great importance and immenfe trade. Several thoufand fol- 
 diers were drawn up along the beach, with a proportionate train of 
 artillery, which thundered out a falute as we pafTed. 
 
 This city, or, perhaps, to fpeak more corredly, the fuburbs of it, 
 are built on each fide of the river ; which, for many miles, was co- 
 vered with junks laden with merchandife, or preparing to receive it ; 
 and fomc of them were of very large dimcnfions. 
 
 We continued failing before, or rather through, this place till feven 
 oVIock, and, from the rate of our paffage, I have no doubt but it is 
 eight miles in length: of its breadth, no judgment could be formed 
 on board the fleet ; but, from the general appearance of the city, and 
 the houfes of the refident merchants, with other commercial circum- 
 flances, its trade muft be immenfe, and its opulence in proportion : 
 it appeared, indeed, to be only inferior to the cities of Pckin and 
 Canton. 
 
 The river continued to be co\-ercd with a crowd of junks j fo that k 
 was with fome difficulty the fleet proceeded on its voyage, which at 
 length approached its termination ; for, about noon, it came to anchor 
 within a mile of the city of Canton, and but two miles diflant from 
 the Englifli fadory. 
 
 In confequcncc of an exprefs difpatched by the conducing man- 
 darin to Canton, to notify the arrival of the Ambaffador, feveral man- 
 darins, in the different departments of government, came to vifit his 
 Excellency. They were foon followed by the Britilli commifTioners, 
 the Company's fupcrcargoes, and Colonel Bcnfon, a very welcome 
 
 vifitor.
 
 793- 
 
 ( 254 ) 
 vlfitor, for he not only brought the public difpatches for Lord Ma- 
 " December.' cartney, but a large packet of private letters from England, and all 
 the news-papers which had arrived by the lafl Ihips from Europe. 
 
 Orders were ifTued by the Ambaffador for the whole fuite to difem- 
 bark on the following day. 
 
 Thurfdayig. The embafly was removed into larger junks, which had been pre- 
 vioully fitted up to go down the river. 
 
 In paffing down this fpacious river it is impoffible to defcribe the 
 magnificence of its navigation; for we faw, without exaggeration, 
 feveral thoufands of trading junks ; nor were the veilels which were 
 crowded with people to fee us pafs inferior in number; while the 
 banks on either fide were covered with houfes, built very much in the 
 ftyle of European architecture. 
 
 There are alfo a fucceflion of forts well fupplied with men and ar- 
 tillery ; and their refpediive garrifons were drawn out in military array 
 on the beach before them, with their colours, mufic, and all the 
 enfigns of war. Thefe forts faluted the fleet by a fuccefTive difcharge 
 of artillery, and indeed the air refounded for near an hour with the 
 repeated firing of great guns from every quarter. 
 
 There were alfo feveral thoufand foldiers in military junks, who 
 added the compliment of their mufquetry. It was a very large army 
 both on land and water, and the whole of them funk down on their 
 knees, as a manoeuvre of military refpedl, till the AmbafTador had 
 paffed. 
 
 At one o'clock we arrived oppofite the Englifh and Dutch fac- 
 tories i when both of them faluted his Excellency with a difcharge 
 of artillery, and inftantly hoifted the ftandards of their refpedive 
 pations. 
 
 4 Here
 
 ( ^55 ) 
 
 Here we faw great numbers of boats, containing all kinds of pro- , 2!ll-» 
 
 vifions, fruits and merchandize, for fale. They rowed backwards Deccmbtr. 
 and forwards, announcing, at the fame time, their various commodi- 
 ties, with very violent vociferation, as is feen and heard among the 
 owners of provifion wherries on tiic Thames. 
 
 It appeared very fingular to us, that mofl of the boats which wc had 
 feen for feveral days, were rowed and fleered by women. It is not, 
 indeed, by any means, uncommon to fee a woman, with a child tied 
 by a linen bandage to her back, and another fuckling at her breaft, 
 while the mother herfelf is employed in handling the oar, or guiding the 
 helm. I have alfo continually obfcrvcd women on fhore engaged in the 
 mofl laborious employments, with an infant faftencd to their breafl. 
 Such unpleafing, and it may be added to the feeling mind, fuch an 
 afl^ecSling fped:aclc, is never feen in any of thofe parts of Tartary 
 through which the embaffy paflbd ; for the women there, as \\d\ as 
 in the northern provinces of China, have their feet crippled from 
 their infancy, fo that they can never fubmit to fuch fatiguing occupa- 
 tions. I was permitted to take the meafure of a lady's foot, who was- 
 twenty years of age, which meafured no more in length than five 
 inches and an half. Of this comprcfTion of the feet, it may, indeed^ 
 be faid to be a partial pradlice. 
 
 Lord Macartney, and the whoJe fuite, went afliore, ox\d took pof- 
 fefTion of the refidence which the Eafl India Company's fupercargoes 
 had provided for the ufe of the embaffy, during its flay at Canton. 
 This temporary habitation, both in refped: to accommodation and 
 extent, was far fuperior to any we had feen in our long journey tlirough 
 this country. Nor was it among the leafl agreeable circumflances 
 of our prefent fituation, that we fiw, once again, a domellic arrange- 
 ment which partook of the habitual comforts of our native foiL 
 
 CHAP,
 
 ( *i6 ) 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Some account of Canton. Proceed from thence to Wampoa, and Ma- 
 eoa; brief account of them. Circumjlances relative to the re/idence 
 cfthe embajjy at the latter place. Sail for England, 
 
 »79^ ^ 
 
 December. i-'iANTON, or Quanton, is fituated on the fouth fide of the river, to 
 Saturday ai, ^jjjch it gives a name, andHes in about one hundred and twelve degrees 
 eaft longitude, and twenty-four degrees fouth latitude. It is furrounded 
 by a wall, near thirty feet in height, built of ftone, and defended in every 
 diredion, particularly towards the river, by very flrong forts, mounted 
 with heavy artillery, and garrifoned with numerous troops. It is im- 
 poffible, however, to form an accurate judgment of its extent, as it is 
 built on a plain ; the furrounding country being one continued 
 level, except towards the fouth, where ftrangers are never permitted 
 to go. 
 
 The ftreets of the city are, in general, from fifteen to twenty feet in 
 breadth, and paved with broad flones. The houfes feldom rife above 
 one ftory, and are built of wood and brick. The fliops have their 
 fronts fancifully ornamented, with a balcony, that rifes from the pent- 
 houfe roof over the door, and is adorned with gilding and colours. 
 
 Thedrefs of the inhabitants does not differ from thofe which have 
 teen already dcfcribed. It is, however, a very remarkable circumflance, 
 that notwithftanding this city is io much to the fouthward of Pekin, 
 the winter iliould be fo feverc as to induce the inhabitants to wear 
 furs : and that fuch cloathing is not altogether confidcred as a matter of 
 Juxury, or confined to the higher order of the people, is evident from 
 
 the
 
 ( ^57 ) 
 tlic great numbers of furrier's fliops wliich I faw, and, as it appeared, '79^ 
 fl:ockcd with large quantities of fur cloalhing. It confifted of the December. 
 Ikins of leopards, foxes, bears, and llieep. The (kins were well drcfTed, 
 made up in the form of jackets, and arc worn with tlic rough fide 
 towards the flcin. 
 
 The Viceroy's palace at Canton, in form, dimenfions, and orna- 
 ments, is the counterpart of that which the AmbafiiKJor occupied at 
 Pekin : any defcription of it would, therefore, be fupcrfluous. Of 
 public buildings there are none, unlcfs triumphal arches, and gateways, 
 which are very numerous, may be included under tliat denomination. 
 
 The number of inhabitants in this city is eftimatcd at a million; 
 and its large and extenfive fuburbs may, without exaggeration, be faid 
 to contain half that number. Indeed, if the perfons are included, 
 Avho navigate, and live on board, the very numerous junks and fampans, 
 or fifliing boats, with which the Canton river is covered, my calcula- 
 tion will be confidcrably exceeded. 
 
 This river, as it approaches the city, is equal in breadth to the 
 Thames, in its widefi: part. It abounds alfo in various kinds of fine 
 filli; but the water is very unwholclbme for Grangers, till it has flood 
 long enough for a very confiderable fedimcnt to iublide: the people, 
 however, who live in the junks, ufc it, as I am informed, for every 
 purpofe, and without any inconvenience that I could Icarn. 
 
 When we were on the river that flows by Tong-tclicw, an experi- 
 ment was made refpedling tiie water, and, in a fiugle gallon of it, there 
 remained, on draining it, half a pint of yellow fand ; yet in this flatc 
 ihc people of the country univerfally ufc it, and have no idea of purify- 
 ing it by filtration. We had no opportunity of becoming acquainted 
 with the common maladies of the people who live on the banks of 
 ihat river — but water fo charged as this appears- to be, mufl have 
 
 L 1 fomc
 
 ( 258 ) 
 
 1793- fome prejudicial efFedl on the conftitutions of thofe who continualF)!. 
 
 December. "^^ ^^^ 
 
 Though this is the only port in the empire of China, where Euro- 
 peans are fuft'ered to trade, all commercial bufmefs is tranfadied in the 
 fuburbs, which are about a mile from the city. They are very exten- 
 five, and withouf any pretenfions to grandeur or elegance. The flreets 
 are, in general, very narrow, and always thronged with people. The 
 houfes are of wood, conlifting only of a ground floor and upper ftory. 
 They all contain Ihops, and are fitted up within after the Eng- 
 lifh manner, to which the inhabitants appear to- have a decided 
 partiality, hideed, it was not uncommon to fee their names written 
 on the figns, in Englilh charad:ers, and adapted to Englilh ortho- 
 graphy. The porcelain warehoufes which I faw here, are faid, and I 
 iDelieve with great truth, to exceed any fimilar repofitories in the world, 
 for extent, grandeur, and flock in trade. The warehoufes of the 
 tea merchants are ahb filled with extenfive ranges of chefts, which 
 contain an article, now become almoft a neceffary of life in our coun- 
 try, and of increafing ufe in every other part of Europe. 
 
 The fa6lories of the feveral European companies, who trade to this 
 part of the eaflern world, are formed in the flyle of that quarter of the 
 globe to which they belong. The buildings are conflruded of ftone 
 and brick, on a very fubflantial plan; they fo far conform to the 
 architediural defigns of the country, which I believe to be the bell, 
 that they inclofc large courts, where there are apartments for the fuper- 
 cargoes and writers, as well as for the captain and mates of fhips, 
 during the time they are loading their fliips. 
 
 There is a range of thefe fodories along the river, but without the 
 leafi: communication with each other ; and their general diI1;ind;ion is 
 the flag, or ftandard of their refped:ive countries, which arafeen fly- 
 ing during the day on fome confpicuous part of each fodory. 
 
 I The
 
 ( 259 ) 
 
 The fcvcral nations whore trading companies have fadlorles here, '/ QV 
 are England, Holland, Franee, Sweden, Denmark, Portugal, Spain, Dci-cmiicr. 
 imd America. But the Engliih, both from the extent of their 
 buildings, and the number of their fliips, appear to cngrofs almoft the 
 ■whole of the China trade to tlicmfelves. 
 
 The refidence of Lord Macartney was on the oppofitc fide of the 
 river; and, as a mere place of temporary accommodation, was 
 contrived with great judgment, and arranged with uncommon attention 
 to the convenience of the upper order of the embafly : the refl of the 
 fuite occupied fome of the company's fiore-rooms, which were fitted 
 up in a very neat and commodious manner for the occafion. 
 
 For feveral days after his Excellency's arrival at this place, he was 
 entertained during dinner by a Chinefe play, on a ftage crecSled before 
 the windows of his apartment; and with extraordinary feats of leger- 
 demain, which always accompany their public entertainments of this 
 country. 
 
 The Viceroy of Canton paid the Britifli AmbafTador only one vifit 
 during his flay here, which was followed by large prefents of fugar- 
 candy, porcelain and nankeen, to the whole retinue of the embaffy. 
 
 The gentlemen of the Britifli fadory entertained Lord Macartney 
 and the whole fuite with great elegance and hofpitality, on Chrillmas 
 day, 1793, and the firft day of Jamnuy 1794. They alfo made a 
 requifition to engage the band of mufic that had accompanied the 
 cmbafly, from whofe fervice it was accordingly difcharged, and 
 entered into that of the Englilli fadory ; a very valuable acquifition 
 in a country and fituation, where fo little exterior amufcment of any 
 kind is to be obtained. 
 
 Nor can I, in this place, where I am to take leave of Canton, 
 avoid exprefTuig a regret, that the inhabitants of it are very ditierent 
 
 L 1 2 in
 
 ( 26o ) 
 
 »793' in point of honefly, from the people of every other part of CHin.i 
 DeceniL-er. where we had been ; at leaft, as far as my means of obfervation would 
 enable me to judge. Nor is it with lefs concern- that I attribute this 
 local charader, whi(?h is knavifl.1 in the extreme, to their being the 
 inhabitants of the only place where there is any communication witk 
 the natives of other countries. 
 
 On the eighth of January, 1794, Lord Macartney fet off with his 
 whole retinue, in boats, for the Lion man of war, then lying at 
 Wampoa. At the fame time, Mr. Maxwell and Mr. Barrow, with 
 certain attendants, were ordered to proceed to Macao, to make pre- 
 parations for the reception of his Excellency at that place. They went 
 in junks by another river, which flows from Canton to Macao, and. 
 paifing by that place, empties itfelf into the fea.. 
 
 'I'he country on each fide of the river, between Canton and Wan> 
 poa, is rich, fertile, and full of variety ; feveral lofty pagodas fuc- 
 ccflively enlivened the diftant parts of the progreffive profpeds. 
 
 Wampoa is the place where all fliips come to an anchor, being, 
 univerfally prohibited to proceed further up the river. 
 
 It is a very beautiful and populous village, at the diflance of about 
 eighteen miles from Canton. The houfes are built of a lead-coloured 
 brick, with numbers of fine trees interfperfed among them. The 
 adjacent country is a continued level ; but the oppofite fide of the river, 
 which is not fo Avide here as at Canton, wears a different and more 
 irregular appearance. At no great difrance from this place there is a 
 i'and-bank or bar, which cannot be palTed by large veffels but at 
 high water. There are alfo two necks of land that projedl on either 
 fide of the river, which form the paffage called the Bocca Tygris. 
 Here are fi:rong forts on each fide with batteries and troops ; and as 
 the Lion paiTed flie received a falute of three guns, from each, of 
 them..
 
 ( 26. ) 
 
 Previous to the departure of Lord Macartney from Wampoa, fic '793' 
 received the farewel vilit of the attendant nnandarin Van-Tadgt-In. December, 
 Of thib dillinguilhcJ perfonage and amiable man, it is impollihle to 
 ufc cxpreflions beyond the merit he difplaycd in his care of, and at- 
 tention to, every perfon attached to the Britilh embafly. He was 
 appointed by the Emperor of China to attend and conduft it; and, 
 from tlic time we landed on th'e fliore of the Yellow fea, to our arrival 
 at Wampoa, he never quitted it for a moment. In all this Ion"- and 
 various journey, he never negledled for an inAant the duties of his 
 office, nor omitted any opportunity of executing them in a manner 
 the moil agreeable to thofe who were entrufted to his care and di- 
 redion : it was a taik of no common trouble and difficulty ; but he was 
 not feen on any occafion or at any time to fpare himfelf in performing 
 it. He was amiable in liis manners, affiible in his demeanour, ready 
 in his communication, adlive in his arrangements,, and fohcitous in 
 the extreme not only to procure all poffiblc accommodations, but to 
 fuit them, as far as the circumflances of the country would allow, 
 to European habits and cufi:oms. He was a mandarin of the firll 
 tiafs, and held a very high, if not the higheft: rank, in the army of 
 China: but neither fituation or dignity had elevated his minil above 
 the difcharge of duties, whatever they might be, or the fu"^geftions of 
 kindnefs, to whatever objei:lb it might be direded. Nor was this all i. 
 in the true fpirit of benevolence, he acquired a fricndlhip for thofe in 
 whofe fcrvice it had been {o continually employed; and his lafl: adieu 
 to the AmbalTador and the fuitc was accompanied with the tears of 
 affcdion. 
 
 The mandarin Van-Tadge-ln, we wcR know, is high in the coa- 
 fidencc of his fovcreign ; and, from his virtues^ there can be little 
 doubt that he bears a very dillinguilhed charader in the fphere of pri- 
 vate life and public duty. But though the teflimony of refpedl which 
 is recorded on this page cannot add to his fame, it will prove, at leall 
 a fincere admiration of fuperior merit, and a grateful fcnfe of con- 
 dcfcending favour, in the writer of it. 
 
 The
 
 ( 262 ) 
 
 J 79+- The Canton river is fo well known, that it would be not only 
 
 January, fuperfluous, but impertinent in me, to add another defcription to the 
 many which have been already given of it. 
 
 Wednvf- Lord Macartney landed at Macao, and was received to dinner at 
 
 ''ay »+• ftje houfe of the Governor. In the afternoon he went to the refidence 
 of Mr. Drummond, one of the fupercargoes of the Eaft India Com- 
 pany, where his Lordlhip redded during his flay at this place. Here 
 the genilemen of the feveral European factories have their feparate 
 houles, as they are not luffcred to remain at Canton beyond the time 
 neceffary to prepare cargoes for tlie fliips of their refpedive na- 
 tions. 
 
 Macao is (Ituated in r i o degrees of eafl: longitude, and about 
 2 2 degrees of fouth latitude. It is a place of fome extent, and buiit 
 on a rock. The houfes are of flone, and conftrudfed on the plan of 
 European architedlure, but without exterior elegance : the ftreets are 
 very narrow and irregular, as they take the unequal furface of the fpot 
 on which they are eredted. The public buildings confift of churches, 
 convents, and the fenate-houfe, which terminate the only i'pacious 
 and level fh'eet in the town. The Governor's houfe is fituated on the 
 beach, oppoiite the landing place, and commands a beautiful prof- 
 pedt, but is not remarkable for external elegance or interior accom- 
 modatioru Contiguous to it is the Englilli fadtory, a plain, commo- 
 dious building j the other fadlories are in the fame ftyle, and all of 
 ithem furrounded with gardens. The upper parts of Macao command 
 very extenlive views of the Tea and adjacent country. The harbour 
 is very commodious, and flieltered from the winds, but will not 
 admit fhips of large burden. The town is defended, in all diredtions, 
 by ftrong forts mounted with heavy cannon, and garrifoned with 
 Portugucfe troops. The fea runs into the harbour, through a narrow 
 channel between the Ladrone iflands and the town, and forms a fine 
 • bay behind it, extending at Icaft four miles, when it is bounded by a 
 neck of land that feparates it from a large river. Here the Chinefe 
 
 have
 
 ( ^^3 ) 
 have a fort tlut looks towards the Portugucfe territory, and it is the ^ '^^*' 
 principal duty of the garrifon to prevent ftrangcrs from pafTing the January, 
 limits of it. No one is fuftlrcd to walk on the neck of land, 
 nor is any boat permitted to approach that fide of the fhore. 
 There is a fmall, pretty ifland, in the middle of the bay, which con- 
 tains the habitation of a mandarin, who frequently rcfidcs there, but 
 I'cldom vifits the town. 
 
 Macao is generally fuppofed to be fituated on an ifland ; but tiie 
 fadt is othcrwife j nor is there any natural barrier which feparates it 
 from the Chinefe territory. The whole extent of the Portugucfe pof- 
 feflions does not exceed four miles in length, and one mile and an half 
 in breadth: the limits of which are accurately determined, and cannot 
 be palTcd without danger. 
 
 This place is divided in its iurifdidlion between the Portuguefe and 
 Chinefe over their refpecftive people. The latter, however, exad: very 
 heavy duties on all goods landed, or fliipped, on account of the Euro- 
 pean fadtories. There is a Governor, and a Judge, appointed by the 
 court of Lifbon, who have an arbitrary power veiled in them, to the 
 extent of their jurifdidf ion. There is alfo a Portuguefe cuftom-houfc 
 and quay, on the fouth fide of the town, where all Ihips coming into 
 the bay are obliged to pay a duty. There are not more than two hun- 
 dred and fifty European foldiers for the defence of the place, who are 
 well clothed, and whofe pay is very much advanced on their arrival 
 there. 
 
 The refidence of Lord Macartney was one of the mofl beautiful fpots 
 that the imagination can conceive. It was fmall, but built in the- 
 Englilh manner, and furrounded with pleafure grounds of confiderablc 
 extent, beautifully difpofed and planted for profped and for Ihade. 
 The view which it commands combines a moil delightful pidure of 
 river and fea, of cultivated ifland, and mountainous ihorc. 
 
 The
 
 ( 264 ) 
 
 The Cliinefe, who refide in this place, retain their own cuftoms 
 with a rigid preference ; nor has the long intercourfe they have here 
 had with Europeans of different nations, induced them to deviate in 
 the leaft article from the long-eilablillied, and, as it appears, invariable 
 ufagcs of their country. 
 
 Macao was originally fortiHed by a wall, a great part of which flill 
 remains, to the eaft ward of the town, where it pafTes between two hills, 
 and CGnuedts itlelf with a fort, and a convent, that appear on their 
 funimits. 
 
 Without this wa'll is the <;ommon burying-ground of the place, 
 where 1 law the memorials of feveral of my countrymen, whofe aihcs 
 rcpofe at fuch a diftancc from their friends and native land. This 
 cemetery, however, is exclulivcly occupied by the Chinefe, and fuch 
 Europeans who are not of the Roman Catholic perfuafionj as the 
 papilf-s have particular places of interment for thofe who depart this 
 lite in the faith of their church. 
 
 Ai this place Mr. Plumb quitted the fervice of the embaffy. He 
 -was very amiable and obliging in his condudl to every one engaged in 
 the fame fervice with himfelf. He was olTered a fuitable provifion, 
 if he would return to England ; but, though he appeared to part from 
 his European friends with a fenfibk regret, he very naturally preferred 
 to return to the bofom of his family and friends, from whom he had 
 been fo long feparated, and to pafs the remainder of his days in the 
 country that gave him birth. 
 
 Lord Macartney remained at Macao till the eighth day of March, 
 1794, when his Lordlhip, and the whole retinue, embarked from the 
 Governor's houfe. The troops were all drawn out on the beach on 
 the Gccallon, with fix brafs field-pieces, from which they fired a fa- 
 lute of nineteen guns, which was anfwered by feveral forts. 
 
 The
 
 ( 265 ) 
 
 The Lion received I>ord Macartney with a falute of fifteen giin?, n^i- 
 and every other mark of refpedt ; as did alfo the King Charles, from ^~^fnr^ 
 Spain, and the Bon Jefus, from Portugal, witli three country fliips 
 belonging to the EngHfli Eaft India Company. 
 
 In the afternoon ti^ie fleet of homevvard-boiind Eaft Indiamcn an- Sunday i6. 
 chored off Macao roads, to proceed under convoy of the Lion to 
 England, when they, feverally, fainted the Commodore with nineteen 
 guns as they fucceflively came to anchor. The companions of our 
 outvvardbound voyage, the Jackall and Clarence brigs, as the embaJTy 
 was concluded, were fold; the former to Capt, Prodor, in the marine 
 fervice of the Eaft India Company, wliile the latter found a purchaPer 
 at Macao, 
 
 Early this morning the fignal was made for A\c fleet to weigh: and Monday 17. 
 at feven the Lion got under fail, in company with tlie following 
 
 Lord Thurlow, Lord Walfingham, 
 
 datton, Triton, 
 
 Abergavenny, Henry Dundas, 
 
 Exeter, Ceres, 
 
 Hindoftan, Oflerlcy, and 
 
 Royal Charlotte, The Jackall, the Company's ma- 
 
 Hawkc, rine brig. 
 
 Warlej, 
 
 To thefe homeward-bound Englifli fliips may be added, 
 
 The King Charles, Spaniard j 
 Bon Jefus, Portugeufe; 
 General Wafliington, American. 
 
 At eleven the fignal was made to form tlie order of i'ailing, and the 
 whole fleet flood to fea. 
 
 Mm No
 
 r^4- 
 
 ApiiJ 
 Tuefdav 8. 
 
 ( 266 ) 
 
 No occurrence happened, of any kind, worth relating, till three 
 o'clock in the afternoon of this day, vvhea the Henry Dundas made 
 the fignal for feeing fix flrange fail, eaft-fouth-caft, A fail to the 
 north-eaft proved to be the Nancy grab, of Bengal. At four, the 
 Hiiidoflan and Exeter received a fignal to chafe. At five, Ihewed our 
 colours to a brig and feveral prows. 
 
 The brig was commanded by a Moorifli captain, and well armed: 
 the prows were alfo mounted with cannon, as one of them returned, 
 ' with a fingle fhot, the fire of the Englilh fhips, to. bring them too. 
 Thefe prows had upwards of fifty Malays in each veffel, and fre- 
 quently do a great deal, of mifchiet on the coaft of Sumatra, where 
 we now were, as well as in other parts of thefe feas.. 
 
 Friday II. Saw -two firange fail, in confequence of which all the guns were 
 lliotted, and the (hip was cleared for adion. They were, however,, 
 foon difcovered to be Englifh ; and infiead of the fharp returns of 
 enemies, we interchanged the falutes of fricndfhip. 
 
 Monday 14. We anchored at Angara Point ; where we were employed in 
 wooding and watering till Saturday the nineteenth ; when the whole fleet 
 
 Tucfday !j, i'ct fiul, and continued its courfe for England, except the Jackall brig, 
 which now feparated from us.. 
 
 Nothing occurred between Angara Point and Saint Helena, except 
 feveral very heavy gales of wind, partlcularjy in doubling the Cape of 
 Good Hope.. 
 
 We tliis day anchored at Saint Helena ; his Majefty's fliips the 
 Sampfon of fixty-four guns, Captain Montague, and the Argo, Cap- 
 tain Clarke, of forty- four, &c. had arxived that morning. 
 
 Jur.e. Lord Macartney and his retinue went on fhore, where they re- 
 
 '^'^' mained till the firil day of July, when they returned on. board, and 
 
 the
 
 ( 267 ) 
 
 the fleet fct fail for England, with the addition of the following fliiju , J^9t 
 
 which wc found at anchor here on our arrival : (the two men of war July. 
 
 excepted) "'' '*'*' 
 
 The Sampfon, 64 guns. 
 The Argo, 44 ditto. 
 
 And the following Eaft-hidiamcn : 
 
 General Cootc, 
 
 Fitzwilliam, 
 
 Belvidere, 
 
 Fort- William, 
 
 Marquis of Lanfdown, with 
 
 The South Sea Whaler, Lucas of London, 
 
 We parted company with the General Wafliington, who falutcd the Thurfdays, 
 Commodore with nine guns, which were returned in the ufual manner. 
 
 This morning the Sampfon fired a gun, and made the fignal for a Monday n. 
 fleet. After fome hours of fufpenfe, and having made every prepa- 
 ration for an engagement, it proved the outward bound fleet of Eaft- 
 Indiamen, under convoy of his Majefty's flrip Afliftance, Captain 
 Brunton ; which now parted company with his convoy, and joined 
 our fleet. 
 
 Nothing: occurred durins; the remainder of our paflaq-e, that would September, 
 juftify my adding a line to this page, till the third of September, day 3, 
 when at three A. M.. we were ferioully alarmed with running foul of a 
 fleet, off^ Portland Roads ; which was foon difcovered to be the grand 
 fleet, under -the command of Earl Howe, coming up the Channel. 
 This flrange accident was attended, however, with no other inconve- 
 nience than the damage which was received by the Royal Charlotte, 
 Triton, and Ofterley Indiamen. 
 
 M m 3 • At
 
 ( 268 ) 
 
 1794- At five o*clock P. M. we anchored fafe, after a long and curious 
 
 'september! voyage, at Spithead; and foon felt the inexpreffible fatisfailion of 
 once more treading the terra firma of oiu: native countr>\ 
 
 SUPPLE-^
 
 ( ^^9 ) 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. 
 
 "Brief account of the pafjage from Hoang-tchew to Chufin, by Cap- 
 tain Mackintof}^ &c. Various cujioms of the €hincje, ^c. Mif- 
 cellaneous articles, &c. 
 
 QF tliis fliort account of the paffage of Hoang-tchew to Chiifan, 
 by Captiiin Mackintoih, and the gentlemen who fcparated from the 
 embafTy at the former place, to join the fliips at the latter, I fpeak on 
 the authority of others ; and, therefore, give it a place among the 
 mifcellancous matter, which I could not introduce elfewhcre, with- 
 out breaking the chain of narration, which the nature of the work 
 appears to req^uire. 
 
 The river which took this detachment of the fuite to CluiAm, dif- 
 fered very little, as I was informed, in exterior appearance from thofc 
 that have been already dcfcribed. A fuccefTion of mountains and 
 rocks, and cultivated plains, formed the natural fccnery of its banks, 
 while the pagoda and the palace, tiie village and the city, were- 
 the artiticial objects that enlivened or ennobled the profpcCt w hich 
 the ftream offered to the voyagers on it. 
 
 But this river met with interruptions that we never experienced in. 
 thofe on which we paiTed ; and its courfc was occasionally broken, 
 by cataradls of a deep fall and- formidable appearance. Such circum- 
 ftances would neceffarily impede the navigation of the rivers where they 
 prefent themfelves, if the unparalleled induftr}', pcrfeverance, and'' 1 
 may furely add, the ingenuity of the Chinele, had not I'urmountcd; 
 this obftacle ; and in a manner, which it requires fome confidence in. 
 thofe who informed mc of it, to rtliuc. 
 
 To>
 
 ( 270 ) 
 
 To accelerate the paffige of veffels at thofe places where the 
 difference of levels forbids any further progrefs on the furface of 
 the water, the powers of mechanifm are applied to let the veffel 
 down into a lower itream, or lift it up into an higher one, in the 
 following manner. In the firfl: place, two ftrong Mentions are 
 fixed in the center of the river, from which two large beams are 
 made to projedt in a ftate of fufpenfion over the other water : to thefe, 
 ftrong blocks are attached, with ropes of fufficient ftrength ; fo that 
 when a junk arrives at the place, fhe is well fecured afore and aft, 
 to prcferve an equilibrium ; when the perfons, who are always Ra- 
 tioned at thefe places for the purpofe, and are accuftomed to the 
 bufinefs, hoifl: the junk, with its paffengers and contents, from one 
 river into the other, over every intermediate obftrudiion. So certaia 
 is this extraordinary operation, that it occupies but a few minutes in 
 its execution, and is not confidered by thofe who navigate thefe rivers 
 as attended with greater danger, or more liable to accident, than many 
 other frequent contingencies which are infeparable from the voyages 
 on them. 
 
 Captain Mackintofh and his party were treated by the mandarins, 
 of the different cities and towns through which they paffed, with a 
 degree of attention and hofpitality equal to that which the embafly 
 itfelf received. They were ten days in their 'paffage from Hoang- 
 tchew to Chufan. 
 
 I flidll now proceed to give fome detached accounts of the manners 
 and cuftoms of the Chinefe, as they came beneath my obfervation. 
 
 To give an accurate defcription of the marriage ceremony in 
 China, is to do little more than to reply to the Abbe Grofier, 
 whofe account of the Chinefe nuptials, as well as of many other of 
 their cuiloms, is, altogether, erroneous. The Abbe fays, " On 
 the day appointed for the ceremony, the bride is firfl placed in 
 an cnclofcd chair, or palanquin, when all the articles that compofe 
 I her
 
 ( 27J ) 
 
 liL-r portion arc borne before and btfiind her by diflTcrcnf pcrfons of 
 botb (exes, vvliile others fiirroiind her, carrying flambeaux, even in the 
 middle ot the day." The marriage ceremony, which I faw at Macao, 
 had httle in common with this defcription, but tlie palanquin. The 
 bride, fcatcd in that machine, was preceded by muflc, and cnfigns of 
 various colours were borne by men both before and in the rear of the 
 procellion, which confiltcd principally of the relatives of the bride and 
 bridegroom, who efcort her to the hou{e of her hufband, where a fcaft 
 is prepared, and the day is pafled in mirtii and feftivity. Nor is the 
 evening concluded with thofc abfurd ceremonies, with which the 
 Abbe Grofier, and other authors, have ridiculoufly encumbered the 
 eonfummation of a Chincfc wedding. 
 
 The idea which he and others have propagated of the rigid con- 
 finement of the Chincfe Women, is equally void of truth. In diffe- 
 rent parts of that extenfive country, different cufloms may prevail; and 
 the power of hufbands over their wives may be fuch as to render them 
 maflers of their liberty, which they may exercife, with feverity, if 
 eircumlbmces Ihould, at any time, fuggefl the necefTity of fuch a 
 mcafure, or caprice fancy it : but I do not hefitate to aflcrt, that wo- 
 men, in general, have a reafonable liberty in China; and that there 
 is the fame communication and focial intercourfe with women, which, 
 in Europe, is confidered a^ a principal charm of focial life. 
 
 The Abbe has alfo affcrted, with equal ignorance of the country, 
 whofe hiltorian he pretends to be, that maflers are dcfirous of promo- 
 ting marriage among their flaves, in order to increafe the number of 
 them, as the children are born to inherit the lot of their parents. 
 This is a mere fable, as there are no fuch clafs of people as flaves in 
 the Chinefe empire. They cannot import flaves in their own vcffels, 
 •which are never employed but in their domeftic commerce; and he muft 
 be afflid ed with the mofl: credulous ignorance, w ho believes that they 
 import them in foreign bottoms.. If, therefore, there are any flaves in. 
 
 China^
 
 ( 272 ) 
 
 Cliina, they mufl: be natives of the country; and among them, it is 
 well known, that there is no clafs of people who are in th.i^ degrading 
 fituation. 
 
 Certain clafTcs of criminals are puniflied with fervitude for a flated 
 period, or for life, according to the nature of their offences ; and they 
 are employed in the more laborious parts ot public works. But if 
 this is flavery, the unhappy convidls, who heave ballafl: on the Thames, 
 are flaves. There is a cuftom, indeed, in China, refpedling this 
 clafs of criminals, that does not prevail in England, which is, 
 their being hired for any fervice they are capable of performing : 
 and this frequently happens, as thefe convidls may be had at a cheaper 
 rate than ordinary labourers. This regulation, however, has one 
 good effecft, that it exonerates government from the expenfe of main- 
 taining fuch unhappy perfons without leflening the rigor or difgrace of 
 the punilhment. But I re-aflert that flavery by which I mean the power 
 which one man obtains over another, by purchafc, or inheritance, as 
 in our Weft India iflands, is not known in China. Indeed, fome of 
 the Chinefe in the interior parts of the country, were, with difficulty, 
 made to comprehend the nature of fuch a charatler as a flave ; and 
 when I illuftrated the matter, by explaining the fituation of a negro 
 boy, called Benjamin, whom Sir George Staunton had purchafed at 
 Batavia, they exprefled the ftrongeft marks of difguft and abhorrence. 
 This converfation took place at Jehol, in Tartary. But at Canton, where 
 the communication with Europeans gives the merchants a know- 
 ledge of what is paffing in our quarter of the globe, poor Benjamin 
 was the caufe of fome obfervations on his condition, that aftonifhed 
 me when I heard, and will, I believe, furprife the reader when he 
 perufes them. The boy being in a fliop with me in the fuburbs of 
 Canton, fome people who had never before feen a black, were very 
 curious in making inquiries concerning him j when the merchant, to 
 whom the warehoufe belonged, exprefled his furprife, in broken 
 Englifli, that the Britifla nation fliould fuflPer a traffic fo difgraceful to 
 that humanity which they were fo ready toprofefs: and on my in- 
 forming
 
 <i 
 I( 
 
 (< 
 
 ( 273 ) 
 
 fonning him that our parliament intended to abuhfli it, he furprifed 
 me with the following extraordinary an(wer, which I give in liis own 
 words : — " Aye, aye, black man, in Englifh country, have got one 
 *' firfl: chop, good mandarin Willforcc, tluit have done much good 
 *' for allau blackie man, much long time: allau man makic chin, 
 *' chin, hee, becaufe he have got more firfl chop tink, than 
 *' much Englilh merchant-men ; becaufe he mercliant-man tinker 
 *' for catch money, no tinkcc for poor blackie man : Jofh, no 
 •* like fo fafhion." The meaning of thcfc exprefTions is as follows ; 
 *' Aye, in England, the black men have got an advocate and friend, 
 '* (Mr. Wilberforce) who has, for a confiderable time, been doing 
 them fervice; and all good people, as well as the blacks, adore the cha- 
 racter of a gentleman, whofe thoughts have been dired:ed to meliorate 
 the condition of thofc men ; and not like our Wefl India planters, 
 or merchants, who, for the love of gain, would prolong the mifcry 
 of fo large a portion of his fellow-creatures as the African flaves. 
 •' But God cannot approve of fucha practice." 
 
 That fome general knowledge of the politics of Europe may be 
 obtained by the mandarins and merchants in the port of Canton, 
 might be naturally expedled, from-their continual communication with 
 the natives of almofl every European country ; and as many of them 
 underftand the European languages, they may, perhaps, fomctimcs 
 read the Gazettes that are publilhed in our quarter of the globe. But 
 that the queflion of the flave trade, as agitated in the Britilh Parlia- 
 ment, fliould be known in the fuburbs of Canton, may furprife fomc 
 of my readers as it aftonifhed me. Nor will it be unpleafing to 
 Mr. Wilberforce to be informed, that, for the adtive zeal which he 
 difplayed in behalf of the nations of Africa, in the fcnatc of the firft 
 city of Europe, he fliould receive the eulogium of a Chincfc mer- 
 chant beneath the walls of an Afiatic city. 
 
 There are frequent feflivals in China, and we faw at Macao, the 
 principal of them which celebrates the beginning of the New- Year. 
 
 N n According
 
 ( 274 ) 
 
 According to the Chinefe calendar, it commences on the fccond day of 
 our month of February, and is obfcrved with great joy and gladnefs 
 throughout the whole empire, and by an entire fufpenfion of all bufi- 
 nefs. Of any religioi>s ceremonies that ufher in the dawn of the year, I 
 cannot fpeak, as all the dill:ind:ions of the feafon which appeared to us, 
 confifted of feafting by day, and fireworks by night. This feflival is 
 prolonged, by thofe who can afford k, for feveral days : and they, 
 whofe circumftances confine their joy to one day, take fo much of it, 
 that they generally feel its efiedls on the next. 
 
 Of the manner in which they keep or obferve their ordinary holidays, 
 I fhall give the following account : 
 
 In the firfl place they purchafe provifions according to-their fituation 
 and capacity, which are drelTed, and placed before a fmall idol, fixed 
 on an altar, with a curtain before it : and fuch an altar, in fome 
 form or other, every Chinefe has in his habitation, whether it be 
 on the land, or on the water, in an houfe, or a junk. This repaft, with 
 bread and fruit, and three fmall cups of wine, fpirits, and vinegar, are, 
 after a threefold obeifance from the people of the houfe to the idol, 
 carried to the front of their dv/elling: they there kneel and pray, with 
 great fervour, for feveral minutes ; and, after frequently beating their 
 heads on the ground, they rife, and throw the contents of the three cups 
 to the right and left of them. They then take a bundle of fmall pieces 
 of gilt paper, which they fet on fire, and hold over the meat. That 
 is fucceeded by firings of fmall crackers, hanging to the end of a cane, 
 \vhich are lighted and made to crack over the meat. The repafl 
 is then placed before the idol, or Jofh, as it is called, (a term which 
 means a deity) and after a repetition of obeiflinces, they conclude 
 with a joyous dinner, exhilarated by plenty of fpirits, which are 
 always boiled in fmall pewter or copper vefTels before they are taken. 
 
 On the firfl of March it is ufual, according to ancient cuflom, for 
 
 dramatic pieces to be performed on ffagcs in the principal flrcet of 
 
 3 the
 
 ( ^^'/S ) 
 the different towns throughout the empire, for the amvifcmcnt of the 
 poor people, who are not ahlc to purchafc thofe plcafurcs. Tlus bene- 
 ficent a<ft continues for a fuccefhon of feveral days, at the cxpcnfe of 
 the Emperor; fo that every morning and evening, during this period, 
 the lower claffes of his fubjeds enjoy a fivouritc pleafure without 
 cofl, and blefs the hand that be/lows it on them. 
 
 Of the knowledge of medicine among the Chinefe I can fay no 
 more, than that I was witncfs, in one inftance, to a fkilful apphciition 
 of it, in the cafe of John Stewart, a I'ervant of Capt. Mackintolli, 
 who, on our return from Jehol, had been feized with the dyfcntery, 
 which increafed fo much on the road, that at Waunchoyeng, there 
 were no hopes entertained of his being able to leave tiiat place. 
 Whether it arofe from the defirc of the patient, or was fuggefled by 
 any perfon in the fuite, 1 know not, but a Chinefe phylician was 
 called to his afliftance; when the ruan's cale was explained ti> 
 him by Mr. Plumb, in the prefence of Sir George Staunton. 
 The phyfician remained a confidcrable time with his patient, and 
 fent him a medicine, which removed the complaint, and reftored 
 him to health. 
 
 The people arc, in general, of an healthy appearance: It is very 
 rare, indeed, to fee perfons marked with the fmall-pox ; and, except 
 in the fea-ports of Macao and Canton, feveral of the diforders unfor- 
 tunately fo frequent in Europe, arc not known in China. 
 
 The caxee is the only current coin in China: any other fpe- 
 cies of money is abfolutely forbidden, and is made of a white 
 metal of about the lize of our farthing, with a fmall fquare hole 
 driven through the middle, for the purpofc of running them on 
 a firing to be compofed into candcrecns and maces : but although 
 the terms candereen and mace are employed to certify a certawi 
 quantity of caxccs, there are no coins in the country which bear 
 
 N n a that
 
 ( 276 ) 
 that fpecific value ; Co that, in fadl, they are only imaginary denomi- 
 nations, like our pounds, &c. 
 
 The comparative cftimation of the caxee with Britifli money cannot 
 bealcertained with any degree of accuracy, as it bears no fterhng value 
 even in that country? every province having its particular caxee, 
 which is not current in any other. In the province of Pekin a 
 Spanilh dollar will produce, in exchange, from five hundred to 
 five hundredand eighty caxecs, according to the weight of the dollarj 
 which the Chinefe prove by a fmall fteel-yard like ours in Eng- 
 land; though they fometimes employ fcales. In the province of 
 Hoane-tchcw the dollar obtains from fevcn hundred to feven hun-- 
 aired and fifty caxees ; in other places it will find a flill more variou^. 
 exchange. 
 
 I cannot conclude this volume without paying a tribute of refpecft- 
 ful veneration to the great and illuftrious, the wife and beneficent 
 Sovereign of China ; who, in a long reign of near fixty years, has, 
 by the general voice of his people, never ceafed to watch over and 
 increafe their happinefs and profperity. Of the manner m which he 
 adminiflers juftice, and gives proted:ion to the meaneft of his fubjefts,. 
 the following anecdote, which I heard freq^uently in the country, is 
 an afFed.ing example : 
 
 A merchant of the city of Nankin had, with equal induflry and 
 integrity, acquired a confiderable fortune, which awakened the rapa- 
 cious fpirit of the vice-roy of that province : on tjie pretence, there- 
 fore, of its being too rapidly accumulated, he gave fome intimations 
 of his defign to make a feii'ure of it. The merchant, who had a nu- 
 merous family, hoped to bafHe the oppreffive avarice that menaced 
 him, by dividing his poffeffions among his children, and depending 
 upon them for fupfrort. 
 
 ! But
 
 ( 277 ) 
 But the fpirit of injuflicc, when jftrengthcncd by power, is not 
 cafily thwarted in its dcfigns j the vice-roy, therefore, font tlic chif- 
 drcn to the army, feizcd on their property, and left the father to beg 
 his bread. His tears and humble petitions were fruitlefs ; the tyran- 
 nical officer, this vile vicegerent of a beneficent fovereign, difdaincd to 
 befluw the fmallefl: relief on the man he had reduced to ruin ; (o that, 
 exafperated by the oppreflion of the minifter, the merchant, at length, 
 determined to throw himlelf at the feet of the fovereign, to obtain re- 
 drefs, or die in his prcfence. 
 
 With this defign he begged his way to Pekin; and, having fur- 
 mounted all the difficulties of a long and painful journey, he at length 
 arrived at the Imperial rcfidence; and, having prepared a petition 
 that contained a faithful ffatemcnt of his injuries, he waited with 
 patience in an outer court till the Emperor ihould pafs to attend the 
 council. But the poverty of his appearance had almoff fruflrated his 
 hopes; and the attendant mandarins were about to chaffife his intrufion, 
 when the attention of the Emperor was attracted by the buffle which 
 the poor man's refiflance occafioncd : at this moment he held forth a 
 paper, which his Imperial Majeffy ordered to be brought to his palan- 
 quin; and, having perufcd its contents, commanded the petitioner ta 
 follow him. 
 
 It fo happened, that the vice-roy of Nankin was attending his annual 
 duty in the council : the Emperor, therefore, charged him with the 
 crime ftated in the poor man's petition, and commanded him to make 
 his defence : but, confcious of his guilt, and amazed at the luiexpeded 
 difcovery, his agitations, his looks, and his filence,. comlenxned him. 
 The Emperor then addreffed the alTcmblcd council on the fubjed; of 
 the vice-roy's crime, and concluded his harangue with ordering the 
 head of his tyrannical officer to be inffantly brought him on the point 
 of a fibre. The command was obeyed ; and while the poor old. 
 man was wondering on his knees at the extraordinary event of the 
 
 monicat^
 
 ( ^78 ) 
 
 tnoment, tlie Emperor addrefTed him in the following manner : Look, 
 faid he, on the awful and bleeding example before you, and as I now 
 appoint you his fuccefTor, and name you vice-roy of the province of 
 Nankin, let his fate inftrud you to fulfil the duties of your high and 
 important office with juftice and moderation. 
 
 A P P E N-
 
 APPENDIX: 
 
 CONTAINING AN 
 
 ACCOUNT OF THE TRANSACTIONS 
 
 OF THl 
 
 SQUADRON 
 
 DURINC THE ABSENCE OF THE 
 
 E M B A S S Y, 
 
 Till their Return on Board his Majeft/s Ship the Lion, at JFampoa,
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Remarks on Board his MajeJ}y^s Ship the Lion, in the Tellozv Sea. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy, a. m. kiikd a buiiuck, weight 
 
 34ilbs. got all the baggage into the junky, with ioidiers, me- 
 chanics, fervants, botanifts, &c. At halt-pafl: eight the Anibaf- 
 fador went on board the brigantinc Clarence, manned the Ihip, and 
 faluted him with 19 guns, and three cheers, as did the Hindoftan. 
 
 Ditto weather. Adam Bradlhaw, a light dragoon, departed tliis life, TuefdayG, 
 and his body committed to the deep, A. M. waflied the lower and 
 orlop decks, fumigated the fliip with devils, walhed the fides and 
 beams with vinegar. 
 
 L.ight breezes and cloudy. People employed occafionally. A. M. 
 killed a bullock, weight 2§2lbs. fail-makers repairing main-top-fail. 
 
 Ditto weather. At 9 P. M. the Clarence anchored, and brought the 
 Jackall's men on board. At half-pall: four weighed and made fail, 
 founded in 7 and 9 lathoms water. At noon killed a bullock, 
 weight 30 1 lbs. Hindollan and Clarence in company. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. P. M. fervcd tobacco, founded from 15 to 17 
 fathoms water, obfervcd fevcral fmall meteors m the air. At 6 A. M. 
 favv a junk fleering S. E. killed a bullock, weight 323lbs.. faw the 
 land bearing fouth-eaft. 
 
 Light breezes and clear. P. M. ai fun let, extremes of Meatow 
 illands from S. E. to E. by N. 5 or 6 leagues diftant. A. M. 
 killed 2 bullocks, weighed 40olbs. At 8 the high Luid of Tan- 
 ^angfoe N. E. by E. 3 or 4 leagues. At noon came to \\'\{h the 
 coafting anchor in 10 fathoms \\ater — foft mud. 
 
 O o Moderate 
 
 Wcdnef. 
 <lay 7. 
 
 Thurfday 8. 
 
 Friday 9, 
 
 Saturday 10. 
 At anchor off 
 the highland 
 of Tangang- 
 ioe.
 
 1793 
 
 Aiiguft. 
 Sunday ii. 
 
 Mondaj is. 
 
 Tuefday 13. 
 
 Off the high, 
 fcnd of Tan- 
 
 gaiigfoe. 
 
 Wcdnef- 
 day 14, 
 
 Cape 
 Cheatow. 
 S. E. by E. 
 37^40'N. 
 
 Thurfdayi^. 
 
 Friday 16. 
 
 Coon Coon 
 
 liland. 
 
 37^33'N' 
 
 Saturday 1 7. 
 
 Remarks on Board his Majcjly^s Ship the JJcf;. 
 
 Moderate and hazy, ht half-paft noon the Hindoftaa tame to. At 
 6 weighed : at 9 made the anchoring fignal with a gun, and came 
 to with the coafting anchor in 9 fathoms water, Meatow iflands 
 from N. E. by E. to eaft: killed a bullock, weight 29olbs. At 5 
 A. M. weighed and made fail. At 7 Ihoaled our water from 9 ta 
 i J. k 7- and I 4 fathoms water. At 8 came to in 7 fathoms water, 
 Meatow ifland from N. by W. to E. by N. At half-pafl 9 weighed. 
 
 Light airs and fqually. At half-pafl 3 P. M. came to with the coaft- 
 ing anchor in 21 fathoms water, Tangangfoe town, S. by W. i W. 
 killed a bullock, weight 2 87lbs. A. M. received a prefent of pro- 
 vifions and vetretables. Sailed the Clarence. 
 
 Light breezes and cloudy. P. M. received feveral hogs, flieep, &;c. 
 At 7 weighed founded from 21 to 16 fathoms water, tacked occa- 
 fionally, wafhed the lower and orlop decks, and the fick birth with 
 vinegar. At noon the Hindoflan in company. 
 
 Light airs, inclinable to calm. P. M. 5 made fail. At 7 (horlened 
 fail and came to in 11 fathoms water with the coafting anchor^ 
 eaftermoft of Meatow iflands. North, a low rocky point S. S. E. 
 3 or 4 miles. At 7 weighed and made fail. At noon the Clarence 
 joined us. 
 
 Light breezes and cloudy. P. M. tacked occafionally. At half-pafl 6 
 Ihortened fail and came to with the coafling anchor in 9 fathoms 
 water, cape Cheatow E. by S. Departed this life Philip Payne 
 feaman. At 5 A. M. committed his body to the deep, weighed 
 and tacked occafionally. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. P. M. at 2 came to v/ith the coafling anchor 
 in 7 fathoms water, cape Cheatow N. | E. A. M. at 7 the 
 Clarence weighed and made fail to found. At 9 we weighed, found- 
 ings from I 4 to I § fathoms water, cape Cheatow N. by W. Em- 
 ployed occafionally.. 
 
 Light airs. P. M. tacked occafionally. At half-pafl 6 the weflermoft 
 point of the huid E. N. E. — the eaftermofl of Coon Coon Sheen 
 iflands N. VV. by N. tacked every 2 hours. A. M. hove to and 
 
 hoifled
 
 Remarhs on Board bis Mnjejiys Ship Lion, } 'dloiv Sea. ' 794- 
 
 hoiftcd in the launch, killed a bullock, weight zSplbs. I lindoflan Augutt. 
 
 and Clarence in company. 
 Light airs. At 4 P. M. in ift reef top-fails extremes of the Sundiy i?, 
 
 land to the eafterward S. E. by E. A.M. founded from { 13 to 16 
 
 fathoms water. At 7 tacked, founded in 16 fathoms water. Hin- 
 
 doflan and Clarence in company. 
 Light breezes and cloudy. P. M. fent the yawl to found to \\hat Monday 19. 
 
 appeared to us Ihoal, but proved to be the reflexions of the clouds. The 
 
 At 6 extremes of the land from S. E. by E. to W. by S. diftant 3 ^'^s.w!'* 
 
 leagues, tacked occafionally, and founded in 30 fathoms water. ti'ftaut 
 
 A. M. killed a bullock, weight 28oIbs. waflicd lower and orlop 
 
 decks. Hindoftan and Clarence in company. 
 Ditto weather, with a fouth-eaft fwell. P. M. at 3 fqually. At 5 Tuefday23. 
 
 light airs, faw the land from S. by W. to S. W. by W. 6 or 7 Mandarin's 
 
 leagues. At midnight calm. At 4 A. M. light airs, with a S. E. N.w!bvN. 
 
 fwell. At 6 cape Chanton, S. S. W. 19 fathoms water. Employed 37° '9 -'^^ 
 
 occafionally. 
 Light airs, with a fouth-eaft fwell. P. M. at three fqually. At 4 Wednef. 
 
 cape Chanton N. W. | N. founded in 1 6 fathoms water. At mid- ^ 
 
 night clear. A. M. employed occafionally. 
 Moderate and clear. P. M. faw a whale, and at half-paft 9 an eclipfe Thurfdaj-iZi 
 
 of the moon, which continued to half-paft 12, never being more 
 
 than two-thirds eclipfed, by which we calculated our longitude to be — 
 
 122 deg. 41 min. eaft of Greenwich. * 
 Light breezes and clear. P. M. at 2 founded in 22 fathoms water. Friday 23.' 
 
 At midnight founded in 20 fathoms water. At 4 A. M. founded in 
 
 1 9 fathoms water. At 6 made fail, and at 8 founded in 20 fathoms 
 
 water. 
 
 * It appears evident from this obfervation, that thofe hillorians who have treated of China 
 were very imperfecft in their geographical eftimates ; as Pekin, which is confiderably to theeaft- 
 vvard of that coaft where the obfervation was taken, is only fl Ued at 1 16 degrees of e-.ift longitude ; 
 ib that the diference is alnicft ; degrees ; a cogent proof of their ignorance relative to the interior 
 hiftory of tliis empire. 
 
 O o 2 Light
 
 Remarks on Board his Majejly^s Ship Lioti, off China. 
 
 1793. Light breezes and clear. Tried the current and found it fet N. f E,. 
 
 Aiia^. 2 miles J at 8 cloudy, at midnight no bottom, at 3 A. M. made 
 
 Saturday 24. f:^}]^ wafhcd the lower and orlop decks, Hindoftan and Clarence iii 
 
 company. 
 -Sunday 25. Moderate and clear. P. M. Made fail; at midnight departed this 
 life Robert Chambers, cooper, at 2 A. M. committed the body to 
 the deep. At 6 law the- land bearing from S. by E. to S, S. W- 
 at "y fq,ually, at 9 Clarence ilLaad 6 or 7 miles bearing S. by E. aC 
 noon founded in 20 fathoms, 
 :Monday46. Moderate and cloudy. At 5 P. M. extremes of Jackali's iiland from 
 Whelps wefl to W. N. V/. At 6 departed this life Wm. Bell, feaman ; 
 
 Biiffaioe's ^^ 9 Committed the body to the deep. Lion ifland W. Blunt 
 
 NofeN. w. pe^i^ i^nd W. by S. in 7 fxthoms water. 
 
 Tuefdaya;. Frelh breeZes with rain. At i P. M. came to with the coafling 
 
 anchor in 5I fathoms. Butfaloe's Nofe S. S. E. Truman's iiland 
 
 t^^hiand^* S. I E. At 5 out launch, at 6 the cutter with Mr. Whitman went 
 
 on an embaily to Chufan. A. M. Frequent gufls of wind. 
 Wednef- Frelh breezes and fqually, with rain. People employed occafic- 
 ^'^>' ^'- nally. 
 
 Thundayzy. Squally, with rain. Departed this life Mr. Wm. Cox, 4th Lieu- 
 tenant, fent the body on fliore to be buried. A.M. Arrived ths 
 Clarence. 
 Friday 30. Ditto Weather. At 2 P. ISL weighed, turning through GofF's Paf- 
 fage; at 7 anchored in 1 1 fithom.s, Kitto N. E. | N. At 5 A. M. 
 At anchor off weighed, at half paft 7 anchored in 10 fathoms, Kitto Point N. \ £■,. 
 Read Mr. Omanny's commiirion as 4th Lieutenant, and Mr, War- 
 ren's as-ading to the fhip's company. 
 Saturday3i. Ditto weathcr. Employed occafionally ; fent the cutter to found, 
 
 and waflicd the decks. 
 September. Moderate and cloudy. A, M. Half-pail 4 weighed, working into 
 ^^ '' Chufan harbour, at 1 1 came to with the coafting anchor in 9 fa- 
 
 thoms ; carried out a kedge with 4 hawfers to warp the fliip into 
 the anchoring place; at half-pait ii weighed. Employed warp- 
 ing. 
 
 Frcfh,
 
 Remarks on Board his MajcJ^fs Ship Lion, ojf China. 
 
 Frcfli breezes and {qually, with rain at times. Employed warping ^^ '' 9.v 
 to the kctlge ; at 2 came to with the bcft bower in 6 fathoms, Sc|ntiiibcr. 
 moored fliip a cable each way, beil bower to the N, N. E. fmall ^ "" '^'^ ^' 
 bower S. S. W. center of the hill at the eafl end of Chufan town 
 N, E. by E. I mile. A. M. Light bree7,es and fair; loofed fails 
 to dry. Employed rounding the (mall bower cable. 
 
 Light breezes and cloudy. P. M, Sent down royal marts and rig- Tuefdayj. 
 
 ,•,..,, , . . A -N/r c At anchoi in 
 
 gmg: unbent the lails, and unrove the runnmg riggmg. A.M. bent chufan har- 
 down top-gallant malls. Received water. 
 
 Light breezes and fair. Employed overhauling the rigging; at 6 vvednefday^, 
 A. M, fent the fick on fhore; ilruck yards and top-mafts, fliipped 
 fore and main top-mafts. 
 
 Light breezes and cloudy. Employed ovcE-hauhng the top-mafl Thurfilay 5. 
 rigging ; received a bullock on board. 
 
 Ditto weatlicr, with lightning in the S. \V, People fitting the rig- Friday 6. 
 ging afrelh. A, M. Launch watering, killed a bullock 201 lbs. 
 Departed this life Richard. Welih, feaman; committed his body 
 to the deep. 
 
 •Moderate and cloudy.. Employee! about tlie top-maft rigging ; re- SaturJiy 7. 
 ceived 2 bullocks and 105 pumpkins. A. M. Eniployed as be- 
 fore; killed a bullock 204lbs. walhed lower and orlop decks. 
 
 Moderate and fair, Ernployed about the rigging; killed a bullock Sunday B.- 
 i861bs. A.M. Yawl watering; received a bullock and 4 goats. 
 Punilhed John Francis, feaman, with 12 ladies, for thett. 
 
 Light breezes and cloudy. A.M. Received water per launch ; rig- Monday 9^ 
 ged tlie top-maft, killed a bullo(± and 4 goats, 29ilbs. received 
 water per launch and 2 bullocks. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy, witli lieavy rain. A. M.. Light winds and Tueidajjo.. 
 fair. People about the rigging and blacking the yards, caulking 
 over the lide, launch watering; killed 2 bullocks 39ilbs. 
 
 Light airs and cloudy. Employed overhauling the rigging. A, M. J^flf' 
 Roufed up the bdl bower cable and llowed itaves under it. De- 
 parted this life Stephen Pounce, feaman; interred the body. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy, with heavy rain. Employed as. necefiar)'. Thurfdayis*. 
 A. M. Launch and yawls watering. 
 
 M oderate.
 
 »793- 
 
 September. 
 Friday 13. 
 
 Saturday 14- 
 
 Sunday 15. 
 
 Monday 16. 
 Tuefday 17. 
 
 VVednef- 
 day 18. 
 
 Thurfday 19. 
 
 Friday 20. 
 
 Saturday a 1. 
 
 Synday 22. 
 
 Remarks on Board his Majejly s Ship Lion, in Chiifan Harbour. 
 
 Moderate breezes with rain. Etm ployed as before, launch and yawls 
 watering. A. M. Employed clearing the after-hold and ratthng 
 the top-mafl rigging. Saluted a mandarin with 3 guns. 
 
 Ditto weather. P. M. Employed in the after-hold ; faluted a man- 
 darin with 3 guns, and a fuperior one with 7. A. M. Punilhed 
 Henry Morris, feaman, with iilaflies, for drunkennefs. 
 
 Light breezes and cloudy. Arrived the Endeavour brig. A. M. The 
 Endeavour faluted with 7 guns, returned 5 ; received water, em- 
 ployed fiarting it; fwayed up the lower yards, fidded top-gallant 
 and royal mafts, rattled the lower rigging, received bread from 
 the Hindoftan. 
 
 Moderate breezes. Employed watering. 
 
 Light winds and cloudy. P. M. Received bread from the Hindoftan. 
 A. M. Sent the launch to the Jackall's affiftance, fhe being on 
 fhore without the harbour. Employed fliifting the coals and rat- 
 tling the rigging. Fired 21 lower-deck guns being the Emperor of 
 China's birth-day; killed a bullock and 4 goats. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. Launch affifting the Jackall ; at midnight 
 frefh breezes and fqually, with violent peals of thunder and fierce* 
 flaflies of lightning; ftruck the royal mails, fecured the pumps 
 and magazines. A. M. Yawls watering. 
 
 Ditto weather. Yawls watering ; got royal mafls upon deck, ftruck 
 yards, top-mafts and top-gallant mafts. A. M. People employed 
 occalionally, received from the Hindoflan beef and pork. 
 
 Light breezes and clear. Employed in the after-hold; caulkers on 
 the larboard fide ; received on board beef from the Hindoflan, 
 and water per launch. 
 
 Pitto weather. Employed flowing the after-hold ; launch and yawls 
 watering, received from the Hindoflan beef and pork. A. M. Re- 
 ceived from ditto beef, oatmeal, and flour; cooper repairing the heads 
 of the calks. Scraped the larboard lide. 
 
 Light breezes and cloudy. Employed flowing away provifions, 
 coopers as before. A. M. Cleared haufe, launch watering. 
 
 4 Light
 
 Remarks on Board his Majcfly^s Ship Lion, in Chufan Harbour. 
 
 Light breezes and cloudy. Caulkers as before. A. M. Punifhcd '793- 
 Jeremiah Harrington, i'eaman, with 12 Liflies for infolence. Coo- September. 
 pcrs and caulkers as before ; launch and yawls watering. Received ^""''^y *3' 
 bread from the Hindollan. 
 
 Ditto weather. Caulkers on the larboard fidc; received peas from TacfJaj-zv 
 the Hmdoftan; received water. Painters about the flern. A M. 
 Received pork, beef, oatmeal, and flour, from the II ndoftan. 
 
 Frefli gales and fqually. People and painters as before. A. M. Wednef- 
 Employed fcraping the fides; received 4 bullocks, killed 2, weight 
 4261bs. 
 
 Ditto weather. People and painters as before. A.M. Received rum Thurfdayj^, 
 from the Hindoftan ; received water on board. 
 
 Moderate and fair. Received beef and pork from the Hindoftan, Friday 27^ 
 painters about the fides, caulkers and fail-makers employed, peo- 
 ple in the hold, received a bullock, killed 2, weight 432lbs. A. M. 
 Received from the Hindoftan beef, pork, luet, and vinegar^ 
 Launch and yawls watering. 
 
 Ditto weather. Painters as before; fail makers repairing the Cla- Saturday 28. 
 rencc's fails ; received peafe, oatmeal, and flour from the Hin- 
 doftan. A. M. .Received vinegar, beef, and pork from the Hin- 
 doftan, and water per yawls. 
 
 Frei'h breezes and cloudy. P. M. Com-pleted the holds ; received Sunday 29, 
 3 bullocks, killed 2, weight 37 ilbs. received from the Hindoftan 
 beef, pork, fuet, and vinegar. A. M. Yawls watering. 
 
 Ditto weather. Gunners painting the guns. A. M. Carpenters re- Monday 30, 
 pairing the launch on fliore, people pointing the ends of the cables, 
 received bread from the Hindoft:an, ferved vinegar to the people. 
 
 Moderate and fair. Gunners as before, carpenters repairing the oaober. 
 launch ; killed 2 bullocks, 3.1 1 lbs., fe^ up the fore and main rig- "* ^^ '" 
 ging. A. M. Sail-makers as before. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy, with rain. Received 8 bullocks, 16 goats, Wednefdayj, 
 and 700 bundles of wood, faluted a mandarin with 7 guns, received 
 
 wood
 
 '79.V 
 ' .^ ' 
 
 October. 
 
 Thurfday 3. 
 
 Friday 4. 
 
 Saturday 5. 
 
 Sunday 6. 
 
 Monday 7. 
 
 Tuefdav 8. 
 
 Wedncfdayg. 
 
 Thurfdnyio. 
 
 Friday 1 1. 
 
 Remarl:s on Board bis Majcjiy^s Ship Lion, in Chufun Harhour. 
 
 wood from the Hindoftan. A. M. Coopers fhaking empty cafks ; 
 yawls watering; killed 2 bullocks, 367lbs. 
 
 Ditto weatlier. Carpenters repairing the launch ; killed 2 bullocks 
 30jlbs. coopers as before. A. M. Received 2 bullocks, fcraped 
 lower gun-deck, yawls watering. 
 
 Frefli breezes and cloudy. Carpenters lining the lower deck ports 
 and repairing the launch, cleared haufe, received water, killed 2 
 bullocks weight 307lbs. 
 
 Weather as before. Employed working up junk, carpenters as be- 
 fore, cAulkers caulking the launch's bottom. A. M. Rain. Em- 
 ployed working up junk ; killed 2 bullocks, 30olbs. received water 
 per yawls. 
 
 Ditto weather. Carpenters, caulkers, and fail-makers as before; re- 
 ceived water per yawls, killed a bullock, 24ilbs. A. M. Received 
 on board a bullock ; cleared haufe. 
 
 Moderate and fair. Caulkers on lower-gun deck ; received 4 bul- 
 locks. A. M. received water per yawls ; wafhed and fmoked 
 •lower gun-deck, carpenters repairing the launch, fail-makers repair- 
 ing the forefail, caulkers on board the Clarence, killed 2 bullocks, 
 43 libs. 
 
 Ditto weather. Caulkers and fail-makers as before ; received 2 bul- 
 locks, killed I, weight 273lbs. A. M. Employed watering, fur- 
 veyed the gunner's flores, the fick returned on board. 
 
 Light breezes and fair. Carpenters lining lower deck ports. A.M. 
 Swayed up top-mafts, lower yards, and top-gallant mafts. Sail- 
 makers as before ; killed a bullock, 2281bs. 
 
 Weather as before. Employed fetting up the top-mafl: rigging, coo- 
 pers repairing banacocs, received water per yawls. A. M. Cleared 
 haufe ; killed 2 bullocks, 24olbs. 
 
 Ditto weather. P. M. Sent a party to bring off the launch. 
 A.M. Rove the running rigging and bent the fails ; lail-makers 
 making hammocks, received wood, killed a bullock 21 5ibs. yawls 
 
 w<i.termg. 
 
 Moderate
 
 Remarks on Board his Miijejly\ Ship Lion, in Chufan Harbour. 
 
 Moderate and fill r. P.M. Received 2 bullocks and 4 goats ; killed 
 
 2 bullocks, 479lbs. Tbe grand mandarin paid us a vifit ; fcdiitcd ^ Ort.^bcT 
 him with 7 guns on his coming on board and leaving the Hup: Situidayia. 
 manned Ihip at his paflmg. A. M. Eniplo}cd getting ready lor 
 fca. 
 
 Ditto wcatlicr. Received 4 bullocks and 8 goats. A. M. unmoored Sunday «■». 
 fliip ; employed watering ; at 1 1 weighed the fmall bower, and 
 Ihifted 2 cables length further down, and came to in 6 fathoms : 
 received 2 bullocks, and killed one of them, weight 2281b^. 
 Sailed the Endeavour and Jackall. 
 
 Light breezes and cloudy. Received wood and 2 bullocks, killed i, Monday 14, 
 weight 293lbs. fail-makers as before : departed this life Thomas 
 Addifon, fcaman ; interred the body. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. Caulkers on the main deck. A.M. killed a Tuefdayi^. 
 bullock, weight 2 34lbs. 
 
 Light breezes and fair. Sent 10 invalids on board the Hindoftan. '^^'cfincf- 
 
 d3 V 1 6 
 
 A. M. Puniflied Thomas Lock, fcaman, with 12 lafhes, for riotous 
 behaviour. 
 
 Moderate and clear. Saluted a mandarin with 7 guns, returned the Tiuirfdaj-i;, 
 Hindoftan's falute with 9; at 5 weighed, found the anchor flock 
 gone ; half-paft 5 came to with the coafting anchor in 19 fathoms, 
 Deer Ifland N. by W. A. M. Half-paft 9 weighed, turning 
 towards Kitto point ; carpenters employed making an anchor 
 ftock. 
 
 Moderate and clear. P. M. At 3 running through GofF's PafTage ; Friday 1%. 
 at 4 faluted a mandarin with 4 guns on his leaving the fhip j half- 
 paft 5 came to with the coafting anchor in 7 fathoms, Buffaloe's 
 Nofe S. W. by W. hoifted in the launch, killed 2 bullocks 462lbs. 
 A. M. At half-paft 6 weighed and made fail, Clarence in com- 
 pany J at noon Patchacock ifland N. W. ^ N. 7 or S miles. 
 
 Frclh breezes and cloudy. Half-paft noon extremes of Hefan iflands Saturday 19. 
 from S. W. by W. to S. W. by S. at 6 in 2d reefs, at 10 in 3d 
 jeefi ; at noon the Clarence in company, 
 
 P p Frefli
 
 Remarks on Board his Majejiy^s Ship Lion, off China. 
 
 y. ^^7'^' -I Frefli breezes and cloudy. P, M. At 2 out 3d and 2d reefs ; 
 October. flrono; breezes, at o in ^d reefs, A. M. Killed a bullock, 224lb^. 
 
 SiiiKlay 20. " ' ^ f ' ^ 
 
 at 9 lowered the top-fiils to keep the Clarence a-head ; fiil-makers 
 making a covering for the pinnace : at noon Clarence in com- 
 pany. 
 
 Monday 21. Yxcih breezes. P. M. At a hoifted the top-fails, at 6 fpoke the Cla- 
 rence, at 5 A. M. out 3d reefs, at lofaw 6 junks, at noon fe vera I 
 junks in iight; carpenters flocking the befl; bower anchor, Cla-. 
 rence in company. 
 
 Tuefday23. Frefli breezes and cloudy. P. M. At 5 out 2d reefs. A. M. At 6 
 faw Pedro Blanco N. by E. i E. at noon the well end of" the great 
 Lama N. by W. eafl end N. E. by N. armourers at the forge. 
 
 Wednef- X^i'mo weather. P. M. At 4. the body of the ifland of Tarlovv Chow 
 
 cay 23. _ ... 
 
 N. N. W. fliortened fail, and came to with the coafting anchor in 
 
 At anchor off ^i' ^^"^ ^^^ Clarence to Macao. A. M. At 9 weighed and made 
 
 Macao, fail . at noon came to with the coafl:ing anchor in 8 fathoms, 
 
 among the il.t i t-v t-i ■» ;r l^r TtT i-r 
 
 Ladrones. Tarlow Chow N. by E. i E. Macao town W. N. W. 7 or 8 
 miles. 
 
 Thurfday24. Ditto wcather. Yawls watering. A. M. Gunners flretching breech- 
 ing ftuff, coopers repairing banacoes. 
 
 Friday 25. Ditto weather. Yawls watering. A. M. Squally j coopers as be- 
 fore. 
 
 Saturday a6. prefh breezes and cloudy. Yawls watering, fail-m.akcTS making 
 coats for the mafts. A. M. Yawls as before, fliewed our colours 
 to a fhip in the offing, cleared the boatfwain*s ftore-room. 
 
 Sunday 27. Frefh breezes and fair. Yawls watering. A. M. Employed occa- 
 fionally. 
 
 Monday 28. Light breezes and pleafant weather. P. M. The Clarence anchored 
 clofe to us ; paffed us the Walhington, American lliip. A. M. 
 Sail-makers covering man-ropes, and other jobs. 
 
 Tuefdayag. Ditto weather. Yawls watering; at 8 failed the Clarence for Macao. 
 
 A.M. A-t 6 weighed, found the flock of the coafling anchor gone, 
 
 made fail, half-pafl 9 fhortcned fail and came to with the bell bovver 
 
 in 10 fathoms, Tarlow Chow N. VV. by W. i W. Sam Coke 
 
 I N.W.
 
 Remarks on Board bis Majcfy''s Ship the Liofi, of]' the LaJrojies. 
 
 N. W. I N. carpenters fitting a new anchor flock, a futll, E. S. E. 
 At noon weighed and made fail, (iiil-makers as before. 
 
 Light breezes and pleafant weather. Half-pafl: i 2 found the forc-top- 
 maft, fpriing down top-gallant-yard and mart upon deck, fhortcned 
 fail. At 4 came to with the belt bower in 1 o fathoms water, Tarlow 
 Chow E. N. E. down fore-top-maft, lent the pinnace and yawl on 
 fervice, carpenters filhingthc fore-top-mafl, and cutting another fid 
 hole, wadied lower gun-deck. 
 
 Frcfh breezes and foggy. Carpenters as before, fwayed tlie fore-top- 
 maft and end, and flatted the top-mart rigging. A. M. Fidded the 
 top-maft, and fet up the rigging, carpenters making a coafting 
 anchor flock, the boats returned on board, anchored a fchooner with 
 hands for us. 
 
 Ditto weather. Swayed up the fore-yard. A. M. Swayed up top- 
 gallant-mafls, carpenters as before, fail- makers repairing the main- 
 fail. 
 
 Moderate and fair. P. M. At 4 arrived a fhip from the N. N. E. 
 which fliewed French colours, fent the boats after her, cut the beft 
 bower cable, and made fail, fired a fliot to bring her to. At 6 flic 
 run into the Typer, h.iuled our wind to port, tacked occafionally : 
 at half-paft 7 came to with the coafling anchor in 5 fathoms water, 
 Macao town W. by N. 3 miles, Tarlow Chow S. E. 7 or 8 miles: 
 at 9 the boats returned. A. M. xAt 5 fent an officer to Macao. De- 
 parted this life Stephen Smart, quarter-mafler : at 8 committed the 
 body to the deep : half-paft 9 weighed and made fail, turning to- 
 wards the buoy of the beft bower, coopers packing empty ftaves. 
 
 Moderate and fai^^ P. M. At half-paft noon fliortened fail and came 
 to with the coafting anchor in our old birth ; employed creeping for 
 the end of the beft bower cable, and getting it entered hove ftiort on 
 it. A. M. hove up the beft bower. Half-paft 8 weighed the coaft- 
 ing anchor and made fail ; wafhed lower and orlop decks. At noon 
 the body of Tarlow Chow, E. by S. 6 miles. 
 
 . ^ I 
 
 O^tubci. 
 
 Wcdnel- 
 
 day 30. 
 
 OH' Macao, 
 
 among tlic 
 
 l^di'oncti. 
 
 Thurfdayji. 
 
 November. 
 Friday i. 
 
 Saturday*. 
 
 Siiovlay 3. 
 
 P p 2 
 
 Light
 
 Remarks on Board his Majejly's Ship the Lion, off the Ladrona^ 
 
 ■ -V- 
 
 November. 
 
 1793' 
 
 — -V 
 
 oveml 
 llonday 4. 
 
 Tuefday 5. 
 
 Wednef- 
 day 6, 
 
 Thurfday 7. 
 Friday 8. 
 
 Saturday 9. 
 
 Sunday 10. 
 
 Monday 11, 
 
 Light airs and cloudy. At i; affes ears S. \ W. 6 miles. A. M. At 
 9 frcfli breezes and cloudy : fplit the fore-fail, clewed it up to re- 
 pair, rove double flieets and proper tacks. 
 
 Ditto weather. At 6 Pedro Blanco, N. N. E. 5 leagues. A. M. At 3 
 in 2d reefs. At 9 fplit the main-top-fail, clewed it up to repair- 
 Half-paft 7 tacked down top-gallant-yards, carried away the mizen- 
 top-fail-yards, unbent the fail, flieeted home main- top- fail. At 
 noon got up a jury mizen-top-fail-yard, and fet the fail. Carpenters 
 making a mizen-top-fail-yard. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. P. M. unbent the fore-fiil, and bent another; 
 founded in 23 fiithoms water. At midnight in 3d reefs, and furled 
 mizen-top-fail. At 3 A. M. fet the mizen-top-fail; fail-makers 
 making a new main-top-fail out of two fprit-fail courfes. Half- 
 paft 10 tacked out 3d reefs. At noon got up a proper mizen-top- 
 fail-yard. Pedro Blanco, E. S. E. 7 miles. 
 
 Ditto weather. P. M. unbent the mizen to repair, fail-makers as be- 
 fore, and repairing the fore-fail. A.M. tacked occafionally. 
 
 Frefli breezes and cloudy. P. M. At 8 more moderate, out 2d reefs. 
 At midnight tacked. A. M. carried away the jib-ftay and hall- 
 yards, fpliced them : carpenters making a machine to make rope 
 with. 
 
 Ditto weather. P. M. At 4 unbent the new fore-fail, and bent the old 
 one. At 2 A. M. carried away the jib-tack, repaired ditto. At 5 
 carried away the main-top-gallant-flreet, fpliced ditto, employed 
 making rope. 
 
 Ditto weather. P. M. At 6 in 2d reefs : at 7 found the fore-top- 
 maft fprung 5 feet above the cap, in 3d reef fore-top-lail, down 
 fore-top-gallant-yard and iriaft. A. M. flrong gales, down main 
 and mizen-top-gallant-yards : at 4 in 4th reef fore-top- fail : at noon 
 fqually, furled the mi^ en-top-fail. 
 
 Frelh gales and cloudy. P. M. At 4 wore fliip : at 6 flrong gales 
 
 and hazy, with a heavy fea, handed fore-top-fail ; at 8 heavy gales, 
 
 handed main-top-fail, fplit the main-fail, fet main-ftay-fiil, and 
 
 Jiandcd part of the main-fail, the remainder having blown from the 
 
 4 yard :
 
 Remarks on Board his Mdjejlys Ship the Lion^ ''^ff the Lacirones. 
 
 n'ti- 
 
 Novciiibt-f. 
 
 yard : at 9 fct main-top-faii : at liulf-paft 9 fct mizcn-top-fail : at 
 A. M. I'plit main-top-iail, furled it, balanced and fct mizcn : at 3 
 fct ftorm, fore and mizcn-ftay-fail : at 6 fplit niain-ftay-fiil, hauled 
 it down to repair: at lialf-paft 8 fct fore-top- fail, clofc reefed, un- 
 bent main-top-fail, and fent it down : at noon a heavy fea. 
 
 Frelh gales and cloudy. ]'. M. At z unbent the remainder of the main- TucWay n. 
 fail, bent another main-top-fail, and fct it clofc reefed. At 6 furled 
 the fore-fail, bent anotlicr main-fail, and furled it. A. M. At 5 out 
 4th and jd reefs fore-top-fail, and 3d reef main-top-fail, fet mizcn- 
 top-fail, faw the land N. W. by W. loofed courfes. At 8 found the 
 main-top-maft fprung in the cap, out zd reef mizcn-top-fail. A^ 
 noon the eafl: end of the Great Lama, E. N. E. Afles Ears W. S.W. 
 fwaycd up forc-top-gallant-mafi:. 
 
 Light breezes and fair. P. M. At 4 out all reefs : at 7 fliortcncd ^^'cdncf- 
 i;u\ and came to with the coafting anchor in 1 6 fathoms water, 
 Cockerpow N. W. by W. A. M. At 9 weighed and made fail : 
 at II in 2 reefs, tacked Iliip. At noon the Grand Ladronc, 
 W. by E. a heavy fwell. 
 
 Frcfh breezes and clear. At i came to with the coafting anchor in Thurfdaji4. 
 13 flithoms water, the Grand Lama, W. S, W. A. M. At 6 
 weigheci and made fiiil : at 10 lliortened fail and came to with the 
 coafting anchor in 7I fathoms water, Tarlow Chow, N. N. E. 
 
 Ditto weather. P.M. At 4 weighed and made fail ; at half- part: 4 Frldny 15. 
 came to with the coarting anchor in 7 fathoms water, Sam Coke, 
 E. i S. A. M. Half-paft 6 weighed and flood into Sam Coke. At 
 7 came to with the coafting anchor in 6 \ fathoms water, Sam Coke, 
 E. S. E. I mile, got fore and main-top-gallant-mafts upon decks : 
 yawls watering. 
 
 Frefh breezes and hazy with rain. Sent the main-top-maft down, and Saturday i6» 
 another up j carpenters making a fore-top-maft out of the old ;Tiain 
 one, fent down the fore-top-maft, and cut it up, it being unfcrvice- 
 able in its proper ule. A. M. Fiddcd main-top-maft, and fwavcd 
 up the yard : employed making rope, 
 
 Frcfti
 
 \ „ f 
 
 November, 
 buiiday 17. 
 
 Mondav i3. 
 
 Tuefday 19. 
 
 Wediief- 
 day 20. 
 
 Thurfdaysj. 
 
 Frida%'22. 
 
 Saturday 23. 
 
 Sunday 24. 
 
 Remarks on Board his Mifjejly^s Ship the Lion, off Macao. 
 
 Freili breezes with rain. Carpenters converting the main-top-mafl: 
 into a "fore one. A. M. Arrived the Clarence. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. Dried fails, yawls watering, fwaycd up top- 
 gallant-niafts, and fet up the rigging: yawls watering. 
 
 Moderate and hazy. P. M. Yawls as before, carpenters repairing the 
 Clarence boat, fail-makers repairing the fore-fail, people making 
 rope, failed the Clarence. A. M. Rove new fore and main-top-fail- 
 braces : yawls watering. 
 
 Frefli breezes and fair. P. M. At 5 loofed and hoilTed top-fails, fired 
 4 fliot to bring to a vefl'el in fliore, flie flievved Englifh colours, fent 
 a boat on board her. A. M. Muflered at quarters, found the fliip 
 driving, dropt the beft bower, carpenters repairing the yawl. 
 
 Frelli breezes and cloudy. P. M. At i fired a Ihot and brought to a 
 brig under American colours, fent an officer to examine her papers, 
 and found flie belonged to the ifle of France, named the Emilia, 
 Dumift and Roufell, merchants on the faid ifland, laft from the 
 N. W. coaft of America, with 271 fur fkins on board ; detained her 
 as a prize, fent a petty officer and 7 men to take charge of her. At 
 half-paft I weighed the beft bower. A. M. At 5 the prize fired 3 
 mufquets, fent a boat on board her, found her driving, fecured her 
 with hawfers, (See. At 8 found our fliip driving, dropt our beft 
 bower ; the yawl that was aftern of the prize was loft, the officer 
 brought her ftern on board. 
 
 Frelli breezes. P. M. At 4 hove up the beft bower, employed 
 making rope. A. M. Found the fhip driving, dropt the beft bower. 
 Half-paft 7 ftruck top-gallant-mafts, made the hawfer, the prize 
 was riding by faft to the fliip through the gun-room-port forward. 
 
 Frefti gales and cloudy. P. M. Employed working up junk: at 5 
 anchored the Clarence. A.M. The Clarence drove, with 3 anchors, 
 a-head : fxil-makers repairing the fore-fail. 
 
 Fiefli breezes and clear. Sail-makers repairing the main-fail; the 
 Clarence weighed her anchors, fent her under the lee of Tarlow 
 Chow for ihclter. A. M. Muftered at quarters. 
 
 Frefh
 
 B 'marks on Board his Mcije/jys S/jif) the Lion, off Macao. 
 
 Frcfhbicezcs and clear. People employed occafionally. A. M. Weigh- i '^'^^' , 
 ed the befl: bovver, and parted the coaflin^ cable, let tro the fmall N'f^cmbcr. 
 bower, yawl, and pinnace creeping for the end ot the cable. Caft ott 
 the Prize. 
 
 Moderate and clear. Received 9 feanien and a boy from the Clarence ; TucWay 26. 
 yawl and pinnace as before; fail-niakcrs repairing coiirfes. De- 
 parted this life Thomas Steward, feaman. A. M. Committed the 
 body ot the deccafed to the deep. 
 
 Ditto weather. P. M. Yawls and pinnace as before, creeping for the Wednef- 
 end of the cable, which they got j employed fecuring it. A.M. ^^*^* 
 Sailed the Prize brig for the Typer, to land the prifoners at Macao. 
 
 Light breezes and fair. P. M. At 5 hove up the befl: bower, and ThurfdayaS. 
 warped the fhip to the coafting anchor, got the end of the cable on 
 board, and-weighed the anchor, made fail. At half-paft 5 came to 
 
 . , with the befl bower in 7 I fathoms water, Sam Coke, E. by S. 2 
 miles. A. M. Yawls watering, bent the coafling cable, the inner 
 end to the anchor, waflied below. Arrived the Emilia. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. P. M. At 3 weighed and flood in for the Friday 49. 
 watering ifland, but falling little wind came to again with the befl 
 bower in 5 fathoms water, Sam Coke, E. by S. fail-makers repair- 
 ing the courfes. A. M. Yawls watering. 
 
 Frefh breezes and cloudy. P. M. At 3 weighed and flood nearer to Saturday 30^ 
 Sam Coke. At 4 came to with the befc bower in 6 fathoms water, 
 body of Sam Coke, E. by S. 1 mile. A, M. Stayed the mafls, ajid 
 fet up the rigging. 
 
 Frefli breezes and cloudy. Small boats watering, fail-makers repair- December, 
 ing courfes. A.M. Caulkers about the water ways. bundayi. 
 
 Ditto weather. Employed occafionally. A.M. Employed knotting Monday*, 
 yarns and making rope, fail-makers repairing main-top-fail. Peo- 
 ple employed occafionally. 
 
 Frelh breezes and cloudy. Small boats watering the Clarence. A.M. TuefJayj, 
 Hoifled out the launch, fent a kedge anchor and hawfer o\\ board 
 the Prize j carpenters repairing the pinnace. 
 
 Moder.it^
 
 Remarks on Board his Majeftyi Ship Lion, of Linton IJland. 
 
 '79 V 
 
 *—— V > 
 
 December. 
 
 Wednel'- 
 
 ilav 4. 
 
 ThurVdayJ. 
 
 Tiklay 6. 
 
 Saturday 7. 
 
 Sunday 8. 
 Alondny g. 
 
 Tuefd.iy :o. 
 
 Wednef- 
 day I r. 
 
 Thurlid3yi2. 
 
 Fr!4ay 13. 
 
 Moderate breezes. Employed making rope, failed the Prize from the 
 Typer. A. M. Frefli gales and hazy. Sail-makers repairing the 
 main-top-fail. Sailed the Clarence. 
 
 Moderate and hazy. Employed as before. A.M. Small rain, fwaycd 
 up top-gallant-mafts. At 1 1 the Clarence arrived from the Typer, 
 with fome Englilli feamcn from the Emilia Prize, fcnt the boat on 
 board and took them out. 
 
 Light breezes and thick foggy weather. Launch watering, carpenters 
 repairing the boats. A.M. Half-pall S weighed and made fail, 
 tacked occafionally : palled by 3 Dutch lliips. 
 
 Moderate breezes and pleafant \\'eather. P. M. At 2 tacked : half- 
 paft 3 came to with the beft bower in 14 fathoms water, the north 
 end of Linton ifland, N. by W. fouth end E. N. E. anchored the 
 Clarence, A.M. Waflied decks : failed the Clarence. 
 
 Light airs and clear. Launch watering, received 3 bullocks. A. M, 
 killed them, weight 5i3lbs. launch watering. 
 
 Light airs and cloudy. P.M. Received 11 bullocks, killed 4, weight 
 bSylbs. A. M. Struck main-top-gallant-maft, and lowered the 
 the main-yard, lifted the main rigging, to fplice one of the Ihrowds, 
 it being flranded in the wake of the fervice j fent the yawl on board 
 the Warley Indiaman in the Offing. 
 
 Moderate and hazy. Employed fitting the main flirowds. A. M. 
 Pafled by the Warley for Canton, employed flaying the main-mafl 
 and fetting up the rigging, anchored the Clarence. A. M. Swayed 
 up the main-yard and rattled the rigging. 
 
 Light breezes and clear. P. M. Sail-makers making fkreens for the 
 fore hatchway, flxiled the Clarence. A. M. Received water per 
 launch, carpenters repairing the cutter. 
 
 Ditto weather. P. M. Received wood and 6 bullocks. A. M. Launch 
 watering, fwayed up royal mafts, people making nippers and rope, 
 painters employed painting the cabin and cutter ; arrived the Clarence. 
 
 Light airs and fine. P. M. Received water. A. M. At 6 weighed 
 and made fail, as did the Clarence, running towards the Bocca 
 Tigris. Halt-pafl: p inclinable to calm, fliortened fail, and came to 
 
 ■with
 
 Remarks o?i Board his Majefty''s Ship Lion, off Bcrcn llgrh. 
 
 '7'yi 
 
 December. 
 
 Satuj'Ja/ 14, 
 
 wifli the befl bower in 6 fatlioms water, veered \ a cable tlic en- 
 trance of Bocca Tigris, N. N. W. 
 
 rine weather. At 3 P. M. weighed and made fail, tacked occafionally. 
 At 7 in tacking touched the ground, run tiie after g\ins forward, 
 hoiftcd out the boats to tow, fent a boat to found round the Ihip. 
 Half-pafl 7 the Clarence anchored on our larboard bow, carried out 
 a hawfer to her, and hove on it, but finding her anchors came home, 
 lent down royal and top-gallant-yards and royal mafts on decks, 
 ilruck top-gallant-mafts, furled the fails, barred the ports in fore 
 and aft, flocked the coafling anchor, and bent the ftrcam cable to it, 
 when a-ground the body of Langute, S. W. y weft, the north cafter- 
 moft of Sama Chow iflands, N. by W. the fouth vveftcrmoft 
 W. S.' W, at dead low water having 15 feet the fhip healed to port. 
 A. M. Employed ftarting water, carried out the coafting anchor to 
 the S. E. and hove a ftrain, but could not move her; ftarted more 
 water. Half-paft 1 1 the Clarence weighed and anchored on our lar- 
 board, killed 5 bullocks, weight 64olbs. 
 
 Light breezes and pleafint weather. P. M. The Clarence hauled Sunday i;, 
 alongfideand received our fmall bower anchor and 2 cables, flipt the 
 - end from the hawfe, and took it in at the larboard ftcm port. Half- 
 paft 3 the Clarence hauled off and laid the anchor to the eaftward, 
 hove taut: at \ flood flipt the ftream, and hove off to the eaftward 
 in 6 fathoms water. A. M. Fidded top-gallant and royal mafts, 
 fwayed up the yards, Clarence weighing the coafting anchor. 
 
 Light breezes and fine weather. Hauled the Clarence alongfide and Monday 16, 
 took the coafting anchor from her. A. M, At 7 weighed and made 
 fail, half-paft came to with the bcft bower in 5 fathoms water, 
 moored ftiip, the north fort at the entrance of Bocca Tigris, N. 
 fouth fort N. W. by N. a fmall rocky ifland at the entrance, 
 N. N. W. received i733lbs. of beef. 
 
 Ditto weather. Puniflied Francis Otto, feaman, with 12 lafhcs, for 
 theft; cxercifed great guns, fail-makers making a quarter-deck 
 awning. 
 
 Tuefday 17, 
 
 <^q 
 
 Light
 
 »793- 
 » ^ f 
 
 December. 
 
 Wednef- 
 
 day 1 8. 
 
 Thurfday 19. 
 
 Friday ao. 
 
 Saturday 21. 
 
 ;unday 22. 
 
 Monday 23. 
 
 At anchor in 
 Wampoa ri- 
 ver. 
 
 R emarhs on Board his Majefty^s Ship Liott. 
 
 Light breezes. Received water. A. M. Sail-makers as before; 
 gunners thumming a fcreen for the magazine ; iixlutcd a mandarin 
 of the firfb order with 3 guns on his coming on board. .^ 
 
 Weather as yefterday. Saluted a mandarin with 3 guns on his leaving 
 the fhip ; paffed by a Ihip under Englifli colours, A. M. Arrived 
 4 Ihips bound to Canton, viz. Ceres, Abergavenny, Oflerley, and 
 Lord Thurlow ; fent a boat on board them. 
 
 Light breezes and clear. People making floppers; (liil-makers re- 
 pairing the Clarence's fore-top-fail : exercifed the guns. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. Got the guns out of the cabbin, completed 6 
 on the quarter deck and 2 on the fore-caftle. A. M. Half-paft 9 
 weighed with a pilot on board to take us up the river j received 
 1 053lbs. frefh beef. 
 
 Light breezes and cloudy. Employed working through the Bocca 
 Tigris ; 2 forts fliluted us with 3 guns each, we returned ec[ual 
 number, they likewife difplayed the colours over the guns and drew 
 themfelves up in ranks : at 5 fliortened fail, and came to with the 
 fmall bower in 5 fathoms water, veered | of a cable, the north 
 point of Sketop ifland N. N. W. a pagoda on the faid ifland N. W, 
 A.M. Sail-makers making a poop awning; people making flop- 
 pers. 
 
 Light breezes and clear. P. M. Weighed and made fail, half-pafl: 2 
 anchored with the fmall bower in 6| fathoms : veered | of a 
 cable, the north point of Sketop ifland N. N. W. | W. A. M. At 
 3 weighed, out all boats to tow, which wereafTifled by 19 Chinefe 
 boats with another tow-rope ; half-paft 3 crofTed the bar between 
 2 lines of boats full of lights j half-pafl 7 came to with the fmall 
 bower in 6 fathoms -, veered away and moored fhip S. W. by S. 
 and N. E. by N. a cable on the fmall bower to the ebb and | a cable 
 to the flood, a fquare 'pagoda S. E. off fhore li cable, Wampoa 
 town W. S. W.. 2 miles ; found here the Hindoftan, Royal Chat- 
 lotte, Ofterley, Ceres, Earl of Abergavenny, and Lord Thurlow, 
 Englifh Indiamen ; Jackall, Company's marine, and 2 Americans; 
 received on board wood. 
 
 4 Light
 
 Remarks on Board his Majefty^s Ship Lion, in JVampoa River. 
 
 Light breezes and clear. P. M. Employed occafionally. A. M. ^ '791- 
 Read Mr. Ommancy's commifliom from the Lords of the Admi- Dt-rcmi)fr. 
 rally as 5th Lieutenant, but as Lieut. Cox's commiflion was va- ^'^ ^^ ^^' 
 cant, Capt. Gowcr ordered him to a6t as 4th; read the order, and 
 Mr. Tippet's adling order as 5th, likewifc Mr. Warren's as 6tli, 
 alfo the articles of war, and Capt. Gowcr *s orders to the fliip's 
 company: waflicd decks, arrived the Glatton. 
 
 Weather as before. People employed occafionally. A.M. Received WcdneT- 
 7i5lbs, of frelh beef: at noon part of the fuldiers that attended the '^•'^*5 
 Ambafllidor to Pekin returned onboard. 
 
 Ditto weather. P. M. and A. M. Carpenters fixing fpare cabbins Thurfdaytfc. 
 under the half deck. 
 
 Light breezes and hazy. P. M. Employed occafionally. A. M. Pco- Friday 17. 
 pie making rope ; came along-fidc fcveral country boats with the 
 Ambaflador's baggage, and 13 cherts of prefcnts for the fliip's 
 company from the Emperor of China. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. P. M. Received water; employed flowing Saturd&v28. 
 the AmbafTadoi's wine ; punifKed Peter Afliton and Richard Gur, 
 feamen, with 12 laflies each, for difobedience of orders ; Richard 
 Manning, Wm. Tipple, Robert Edwards, and John Hogan, fea- 
 men, with 12 laflics each, for difobedience and drunkenncfs. 
 
 Light breezes and hazy. Employed flowing the after-hold. A.M. Sunday ag. 
 Received 595lbs. frefli beef. 
 
 Ditto weather. P.M. Manned fliip for his Excellency Vifcount Monday 30. 
 Macartney, as did the Hindoilan and Clarence: his Excellency 
 was cheered by all the fhips as he pafTed ; at 2 he came on board, 
 at 5 he left the fhip. A. M. Employed fleeting the rigging : pu- 
 nifhed James Hervpy and John Evans, feamen, with 12 lafhes each, 
 for difobedience of orders. 
 
 Light breezes and fair. Employed fctting up rigging, and in the after- Tuefday xu 
 hold : cleared haufe ; fent 1 3 cafks of beef and 7 of pork on board 
 the Hindoflan. A. M. Arrived the Lord Walfingham from Eng- 
 land : fent 30 cafks of beef and 25 of pork on board tlie Warky : 
 employed in the hold, 
 
 Qjl 2 Light
 
 1794- 
 
 January. 
 Thurfday 2. 
 
 Friday 3. ' 
 
 Saturday 4. 
 
 Suaday 5. 
 
 IMonday 6. 
 
 Tuefday 7. 
 
 WcdnefdayS. 
 
 Thurfday 9. 
 
 Remarks on Board his Majefty^s Ship Liofit in iVhampoa River. 
 
 Light breezes and fair. Employed in the hold : fent 1 3 calks of 
 beef and 7 of Pork on board the Hindoftan. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. P. M. Employed as before. A. M. Carpen- 
 ters nailing battin in the hold to flow ftaves over : coopers fetting 
 up cafks. 
 
 Frelh breezes and fair. P. M. Employed in the holds : fell over- 
 board and was drowned Alexander Ramfey^ feaman. A. M. Em- 
 ployed in the hold. 
 
 Light airs and clear. Arrived the Hawke and Exeter from England. 
 A. M. People employed occafionally j arrived the Henry Dundaa 
 from England. 
 
 Ditto weather. People as neceflluy ; received a boat load of water^ 
 arrived a Spanifh fhip, received a top-maft from the Ceres India- 
 man. A. M. Employed iii the after-hold, waflied lower gun- 
 deck. 
 
 Light breezes and fair. Employed in the after-hold : coopers re- 
 pairing banacoes : punifhed Ralph Pilkinton, dragoon, with 13. 
 ladies, for difobedience of orders, riotous behaviour, and drunkea- 
 nefs. 
 
 Moderate and cloudy. Received 3o64lbs. of bread and fome of the 
 AmbafTador's baggage. A. M. Bent fails, puniflied Henry Ni- 
 cholls and John Smijtli, feamen, with 12 lafhes each, for theft, and 
 Benjamin Addifon, marine, with 12 laflies, for infolence. 
 
 Ditto weather. Employed as neceflary. A. M. Employed getting 
 the baggage belonging to the AnibaiTador and fuite on board : re-- 
 ceived on board wood. 
 
 Light breezes and fair. Manned (hip and faluted Lord Macartney 
 with 15 guns on his coming onboard, his fuite likewifc embarked 5, 
 employed getting in the baggage. A. M. Cleared haufe, and un- 
 moored fhip ; at 1 1 weighed the fmall bower, and dropt a little 
 lower down the river, and came to with the fmall bower ; received 
 1 6oolbs. of frellr beef. 
 
 GLOSSARY.
 
 GLOSSARY 
 
 O P 
 
 CHINESE WORDS. 
 
 CHINESE. ENGLISH. 
 
 Tongau -------- Sugar. 
 
 Pytong -------- Ditto, moid. 
 
 Pyntong ------- Sugar-candy. 
 
 Swee --------- Water. 
 
 Lyangfwee -------- Ditto, cold. 
 
 Kiefvvee - - ----- Ditto, hot. 
 
 Pynfwee -------- Ditto, ice. 
 
 Man-toa --«.----- Bread. 
 
 Tchau Tea. 
 
 Ttchau-woo ------ Tea-pot. 
 
 Tchec-tanna {in the northern pro- "i 
 innccs) --_-.--jt)o 
 
 Kee-tanna (in the fouthern pro- 1 
 
 . ^ "^ ^ [Ditto. 
 
 vinces) -------J 
 
 Yien --------- Tobacco. 
 
 Yien-die -.»------ Tobacco-pipe. 
 
 Jee-au -------- Fowls. 
 
 Yaut-zau ------- Ducks, 
 
 Ly-fiiu (Jn the northern provinces') Rice. 
 
 Faun-na Rice,
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 CHINESE. EKGLISH. 
 
 Faun-na {In thofe about Hontchew\^. i 
 
 Mee {fouihern provinces) _ _ - Ditto. 
 Joo-au -------- Wine. 
 
 Samtchoo, or Sowtchoo - - - Spirits. 
 Yeu-oa -------- Fifli. 
 
 Loa-boo ----,--- Turnips. 
 
 Chutz-yau ------- pepper, 
 
 Jifliimau To alk the name of a thing or place. 
 
 Chou-au -------- Good. 
 
 Boo-chou ------- Bad. 
 
 Yinna -------- Salt. 
 
 Poit-zie -------- General term for greens. 
 
 Tannau -------- Coals. 
 
 Yoong --------A hawk. t 
 
 Pyeng -------- Soldier. 
 
 Pyng -- Ice. 
 
 Quoitzau Chop-fticks for eating with. 
 
 Laatchoo ------- Candle. . . 
 
 Tchooa -------- Light. 
 
 Tzou-lhia ------- Shoes, in general. 
 
 Chow-chow ------ Victuals or meat. 
 
 Chee-fanna ------- To eat meats. 
 
 Kowaa -------- To broil. 
 
 Mann, Mann ------ Stop or wait. 
 
 Lobb, Lobb ------ Joining or coition. 
 
 Tziu --------- Paper. 
 
 Jofh --------- God or Deity. 
 
 Chinchin --To fupplicate or pray. 
 
 Youwafs ------- Furnace. 
 
 Too-paa A pagoda. 
 
 Tong-joo -------A iweet fpirit like rum-flirub. 
 
 Chop. To
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 CHINESE. ENGLISH. 
 
 Chop-chop ------- To make haftc. 
 
 Foockcc -------- Man. 
 
 Foockcc-lou ------- Good-morrow, Sir. 
 
 Niodzaa -------- Milk. 
 
 Hoong -------- Chccfc. 
 
 Toudzaa -_----- Knife. 
 
 Ickoochop ------- Very bcH". 
 
 Icko --------- One. 
 
 Liaungko ------- Two. 
 
 Suangko -------- Three. 
 
 Soocko -------- Four. 
 
 Oocko -------- Five. 
 
 Leowcko ------- Six. 
 
 Shicko -------- Scvea. 
 
 Packo -------- Eight. 
 
 Jowcko -------- Nine. 
 
 Sheego -------- Ten. 
 
 Sooee -------- Sleep. 
 
 Hongjoo ------- Red wine^ 
 
 Tchau-wanna ------ A tea-cup. 
 
 Jcebau -------- 2| cubits, or r yard. 
 
 Tyfliaufuce Bed. 
 
 Mceoulaa ------- Have not or cannot. 
 
 FINIS,
 
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