THE ROBERT E. COWAN COLLECTION 
 
 I'RESKXTED tO THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CRLIFORNIA 
 
 C. P. HUNTINGTON 
 
 cJUNE, 18^7. 
 
 Recession No, A^/^^ Class No, 
 
 cJUNE, 18^7. Q 
 
 o^g^fT' Class No. f=^^/ 
 
 lY^31. 
 
«7 
 
 '■sr*-- 
 
 Adventures and Narrow Escapes 
 
 i 
 
 NICARAGUA I 
 
 |l 
 
 BY 
 
 JOSEPH WORTH, 
 
 In 1866 and 1867 ^ 
 
 PKINTED AND PUBLISHED BY 
 
 ^PAULDING ^ BaRTO, BoOK AND ^OB PRINTERS, 
 
 " Pacific Rural Press," 414 Clay Street, Sai; PVancisco. 
 
 1872. 
 
 ^. 
 
Adventures and Narrow Escapes 
 
 I NICARAGUA I 
 
 PEINTED AND PUBLISHED BY 
 LDING ^ ^ARTO, ^OOK AND jfOB J^RINTERS, 
 • Pacific Rural Press," 414 Clay Street, San Francisco. 
 
 1872. 
 
jsi^-^ 
 
ADVENTURES 
 
 NI C AR A G UA 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 In presenting to tlie public this sketcli of Nica- 
 ragua, it is not the intention to weary the reader 
 with dry historic facts, and repetition of familiar 
 descriptions, but rather to present the incidents 
 and occurrences of a continued visit in Central 
 America, in 1866, and 1867. 
 
 There has been little change in Nicaragua since 
 the publication of the last edition of E. G. Squier's 
 works, giving a full and complete description of 
 the country ; therefore, the author of these sketches 
 will confine them principally to incidental occur- 
 rences, with only a brief outline of the country 
 and people, for the benefit of those who have not 
 acquainted themselves with the condition of Nica- 
 ragua, since the first edition of Squier's work, 
 published in 1852. 
 
4: ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 The beautiful but hapless Eepublic of Nicaragua, 
 has been the theatre of a series of startling events, 
 which have concentrated upon it, not only the- at- 
 tention of the American public, but of all civilized 
 nations. It has been the arena of aimless, and not 
 always reputable and diplomatic contests, and of an 
 obstinate and bloody struggle between a handful 
 of Northern adventurers and an effete and decadent 
 race. Unless the future shall strangely betray the 
 indications of the present, it is destined to pass 
 through a succession of still severer trials, in its 
 advance to that political status and commercial im- 
 portance, inseparable from its geographical position 
 and natural resources; for in Nicaragua, and there 
 alone, has Nature combined those requisites for a 
 water communication between the seas, which has 
 so long been the dream of commercial enthusiasts, 
 and which is a desideratum of this age, as it will 
 be a necessity of the next. There, too, has she 
 lavished with a bountiful hand rich tropical treas- 
 ures; and the genial earth waits only for the touch 
 of industry to reward the husbandman a hundred- 
 fold with those products, which, while they con- 
 tribute to his wealth, add to the comfort and give 
 employment to the laborer of distant and less 
 favored lands. 
 
 Public interest, and especially American interest 
 in Nicaragua must therefore increase. The desire to 
 know the characteristics of the country, its scenery 
 and products, the habits and customs of its people, 
 can never diminish. In all essential respects. 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. O 
 
 Nicaragua is little changed since 1854 — at that 
 period, E. G. Squier made another visit. It is true 
 Grenada has been added to its list of ruined 
 cities, and Eevas and Managua bear the scars of 
 battles on their walls. The peojDle have perhaps a 
 more thoughtful look, as becomes men realizing 
 that the fullness of time has finally brought them 
 within the circle of the world's movements, and 
 that they assume to discharge the responsibilities 
 of their new position, or give place to those who 
 are equal to the requirements of this age, and 
 prompt to recognize their duties to their fellow- 
 men. In all other respects the country is un- 
 changed. 
 
 Its high and regular volcanic cones, its vast plains, 
 broad lakes, bright rivers, and emerald verdure, 
 are still the same; the agua-dora still steps along 
 firmly under her heavy water jar, or climbs panting 
 up the cliffs that surround the lake of Managua. 
 The naked children, in average color, possibly a 
 shade lighter than before, still bestride the hips 
 of nurse or mother. Small and pensive mules 
 still trudge to market, ears and feet alone visible 
 beneath their green loads of sacate. The Moso 
 and his machete, the red-belted cavalier on scarlet 
 pillions, urging his restles horse through the street; 
 the languid Senora puffing the smoke of her cigar- 
 ette in lazy jets through her nostrils; the sober- 
 faced priest, with gallo under his arm hurrying to 
 the nearest cock-pit; the shrill qui vive of the 
 barefooted sentinel; the rat-tat-too of the after- 
 
b ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 noon drum, the eternal '^saints" days, and bang- 
 ing bomas — all remain the same as they were 
 in the days of generations before them. The people 
 are not seeldng new inventions, as are the 
 North American people, who sometimes seek in 
 vain, and are never contented with the best. The 
 Central American natives lack the ingenuity of the 
 Yankee — in fact they seem to require less talent of 
 this kind, for the country is well calculated to sus- 
 tain a population without a strike of the hands. 
 Laziness is really an acceptable element to this 
 class of inhabitants, who regard economical meas- 
 ures and saving propensities, or the accumula- 
 tion of property, as needless labor and useless ef- 
 fort. 
 
 Returning to the incidents of this sketch, we 
 trace them from the time of leaving San Francisco 
 until the return of the Colonization Society, which, 
 during our absence, had broken up. The ob- 
 ject of this society was the establishment of an 
 American town in the rich domains of Nicaragua, 
 where a trade should be established among our- 
 selves that should be prolific of good to the country 
 and. profit to the colony. We sailed from San 
 Francisco in the barque "Domingo." Incidental to 
 the trip, are notes of ten days in a calm, scarcity 
 of water, heavy storm and rain, canvas stretched 
 and plenty of water secured. Forty days at sea, 
 arrived at Eealejo, anchored and signaled for pilot. 
 Detained through a misunderstanding, as the in- 
 habitants squared their guns for fight, understand- 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 7 
 
 ing our signal a sign for battle; becoming convinced 
 of tbeir error tliey came to our rescue. We were 
 soon surrounded by natives in small boats, with 
 various kinds of fruits for sale. Owing to the 
 great quantity grown there, and the limited market, 
 we obtained all, and more than we desired, at 
 wonderfully low prices. At this place we secured 
 flat boats to transport us up the river. Our colony 
 consisted of a large majority of Germans, who 
 preferred to leave the party and embarked accord- 
 ingly for the town of Chinandega, while the 
 Americans started for Leon, the capital of the 
 State. The German wing took route via one river, 
 the American the other. At 2 o'clock the follow- 
 ing morning, we took our departure. A trifling in- 
 cident occurred here . As the paddles of our boat com- 
 menced their motion, the natives who were rowing 
 us along commenced their songs, which is customary 
 with them starting on a voyage, when suddenly a 
 shrill shout ]3ierced the air, crying out to us, halt! 
 Through the dim light of the approaching dawn, 
 we saw a small boat rowing rapidly in our wake. 
 It proved to be one of the sailors leaving the ship 
 to follow us to Nicaragua. He came on board leav- 
 ing the Captain's boat (he had made his escape in it,) 
 to drift where it would. He was only sixteen years 
 of age. The last heard from him he was mate of 
 one of the^San Juan river boats. His Captain re- 
 covered his boat, but never found his boy. At 
 daylight we had arrived at a point up the river as 
 far as navigable for our boat, and discharged our 
 
8 ADVENTURES AND NAEROW 
 
 cargo, at a place called Barceto. We remained at 
 this point until next day, and then secured carts to 
 carry us to the city. These vehicles we call carts 
 were two wheeled conveyences, which were drawn 
 by two yoke of cattle, with two natives for drivers. 
 As the wheels began to creak with a horrible noise, 
 the drivers attempted to remedy it by the applica- 
 tion or the use of a kind of bark having the condi- 
 ment principle of axle grease in it. "We made very 
 good progress with these clumsy carts, and night 
 found us in the city of Leon; making our way to 
 an English Hotel, where we found excellent ac- 
 comodations, we remained three or four days, and 
 four of us rented a house on the copartnership 
 princij)le, which we called ** head-quarters.'* 
 As head-quarters it served us very well, for our 
 principal object was to canvass the country, and 
 settle upon some definite plan of active business, 
 buying and selling land being the chief hobby, or 
 ambition of our party. 
 
 The native citizens of the city of Leon welcomed 
 us with demonstrations of joy and friendship. As 
 we passed along the streets they lifted hats crying 
 out **adios Americanos,'' and many other words of 
 friendly welcome. We were the recipient of many 
 and frequent invitations to the plaza, to listen to 
 the music of the brass band, which discoursed its 
 music every evening. They seemed anxious to talk 
 to us, and entertain us — particularly were they anx- 
 ious to learn the English, quite as much so as we 
 were to speak Spanish. 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 9 
 
 After a sojourn of five or six days in the city, we 
 obtained lease of a farm about six miles from Leon, 
 near the town of Kisiluaka, with the intention of 
 raising our eatables for the following year; 
 this scheme we found to be money out of 
 pocket, as we could purchase corn of the natives 
 much cheaper than we could raise it; one of our 
 company was a merchant, one a doctor, one a sad- 
 dler, and another a sailor, each commencing in 
 earnest the life of a farmer — the author of this 
 sketch undertook the position as cook, but was the 
 first to abandon the business; the saddler soon re- 
 tired and took up his trade in the 'city; the re- 
 mainder of the colonists planted about twelve 
 acres of corn; the merchant sold out his interest 
 for the sum of ten dollars, and started for San 
 Francisco. The sailor also retired, and the doctor 
 now became sole proprietor of the crop — out of 
 money and help — and was in a deplorable condition 
 for carrying on the farm in a strange country, and 
 among a strange people. But this compelled him to 
 go to the field himself, although he would as soon 
 die as to do it. He was at this time boarding with 
 the man of whom he rented the farm, an American, 
 who had been practising medicine a little among 
 the natives, who advised the doctor to relinquish 
 the agricultural scheme, and go to practicing his 
 profession; so with a degree of liberality, seldom 
 known in barbarous countries, he made him a 
 present of a horse and a stock of medicines, and 
 started him in a good practice in Leon. Li less 
 1* 
 
10 ADVENTUEES AND NARROW 
 
 than a year the doctor was worth a thousand dol- 
 lars clear of all expenses. He fell back upon his 
 dignity with a native servant, and interpreter, but 
 his corn rotted in the field, except that portion 
 stolen by the natives. 
 
 After the disbanding of our party I started an 
 enterprise of my own. I purchased a small place 
 in the town of Kisiluaka, with the intention of rais- 
 ing garden vegetables, and a fine variety of fruit 
 trees. I was quite alone among the natives, but I 
 was very proud of my new prospects, and felt in- 
 dependent at last. I was making a bold adventure, 
 but was determined no slight cause should dis- 
 courage me, although I found it a lonely, weary life. 
 The first night of my sojourn on my farm, I ex- 
 perienced a very heavy earthquake, that sent my 
 bed and body flying across my room in a hurry. 
 In settling upon this farm and engaging in agri- 
 culture in Nicaragua, I had nursed the idea that it 
 would soon be settled by Americans. It possessed 
 attractions sufficient to induce an enterprising 
 imigration, and there was every reason to believe 
 that American enterprise would develop the rich 
 rescources of Central America. It is to be regretted 
 that so fine a country should be left to nature's 
 waste and idle natives, who lay in their hammocks 
 smoking their cigarettes, with neither ambition 
 nor wish for their country's welfare and develop- 
 ment. 
 
 It would be a satisfaction to ascertain the real 
 cause that has prevented American people from 
 
OP TKF \ 
 
 i^y^i^^^-^j 11 
 
 settling and developing Central America. Young 
 men that have no homes would find an opening in 
 Nicaragua for wealth and position. There is land 
 of the richest and most productive quality, to be 
 had at reasonable prices. Americans as a general 
 thing never have land enough; it makes but little 
 difference how much land an American owns, he 
 invariably wants more. However people seem to be 
 afraid to go to Central America, even to ascertain 
 its capabilites and rescources. Bugbear stories of 
 the poisonous lowlands, infectious localities, and 
 ravenous beasts, have been circulated and exagger- 
 ated by newspaper men, writers of romance and 
 silly sensation, until there seems to be an accumu- 
 lated mass of false representation, that no doubt 
 retards the better class of emigration, interests and 
 projects in this section of our Continent. The 
 bugbear stories of the country being over- 
 run with alligators is all nonsense, as well as 
 the reports of its being infested with poison- 
 ous reptiles and insects. It is true that alligators 
 and animals, snakes and insects, are found 
 found in Nicaragua, the same as in other countries. 
 The scorpion is more numerous, but not so much 
 so that it is a grievance. The bite of the scorpion 
 is a serious thing. If a person bitten can obtain 
 native rum and drink a great quantity of it, the ef- 
 fect is an immediate cure. An insect known as 
 the jigger is also common there, as well as in some 
 portions of California. Stories are told of the 
 jigger poison producing instant death; also^of the 
 
12 ADVENTUEES AND NARROW 
 
 poisonous little fellows imbedding themselves 
 under the skin of the feet, and depositing their 
 eggs. The report is correct, but the exaggerated re- 
 ports of the terrible results are seldom within the 
 scope of truth. 
 
 THE BITE OF A JIGGER. 
 
 The egg of the jigger is deposited under the 
 skin, and leaves a small black dot, not as large as 
 the head of a pin, just in the center of a yellow 
 spot about as large as half a pea. When they are 
 extracted the jigger and the eggs come out to- 
 gether in a round bag, about half as large as a 
 common pea; when this bag is not broken by tak- 
 ing it out, it is not poisonous, but when it breaks 
 it poisons the blood and inflames the flesh at once. 
 I have had them in my feet over six hours at a 
 time, and have taken them out with the sharp point 
 of a penknife, and the trouble was all over at once. 
 A person of impure blood is liable to be aff'ected 
 by the jigger more acutely and severely than 
 one of temperate habits and pure blood. If there 
 are people who will stay away from a good country, 
 because they are afraid of the jiggers, they had 
 better stay at home wherever it may be, and live on 
 the fruits of poverty and prejudice the balance of 
 their lives. Such persons would be of little use 
 in developing a new country or any of its re- 
 scources — no matter how simple they may be. A 
 country possessing so much material wealth, and 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 
 
 13 
 
 so many attractions for the enterprise of a good 
 citizenship, needs the energy and backbone of a 
 self-reliant and self-sustaining population, who 
 have a pride in the institutions of the country, its 
 future and its several interests, as well as in their 
 own personal interests. 
 
14 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 TRIP TO THE MINES OF MATAGALPA. 
 
 The prospect for making money began to look 
 dubious; the Americans were leaving instead of 
 arriving, and to think of making money out of the 
 natives was an absurdity — one might as well at- 
 tempt to extract blood from a turnip. I considered 
 myself fortunate in preventing them from stealing 
 the little I possessed; still I could not think of 
 returning to San Francisco. I therefore deter- 
 mined to travel over the country and ascertain its 
 possibilities, and acquaint myself thoroughly with its 
 capabilities and resources. The principal object of 
 interest at the time was the mining industry. The 
 mines of Matagalga were occupying much of public 
 attention, and in company with an American who 
 owned an interest in them, and who was going over 
 to take a sum of money to defray the expenses 
 thereof, I availed myself of the opportunity to 
 visit that section. Several of our party who had 
 not left Nicaragua, but had returned from a pros- 
 pecting expedition among the mines of Xicoro, 
 had returned very favorable reports; but as their 
 mules were poor and tired out, they could not be 
 induced to return at the time, but would remain 
 until my return from Matagalpa, and consider 
 whether we would embark together in mining in- 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 15 
 
 terests. Mr. Greer kindly furnished me with a 
 mule and necessary equipments, and after looking 
 to our arms and ammunition, we were soon on the 
 way to the noted mines. We traveled about 
 thirty miles and stopped at an Indian hut for the 
 night. It being my first ride for some time, I was 
 quite tired, and accosted the man of the house 
 with afamilar '* how-do-you-do," while Mr. Greer, 
 who was somewhat acquainted with him, left his 
 money in his charge for the night. The night was 
 one of those cool, genial nights, where the soft 
 semi-tropic breezes, laden with the odors of 
 fragrant verdure, seem to have a somniferous 
 effect upon the senses, and a time when sleep is 
 doubly refreshing. The next morning we were on 
 our way early, and had traveled quite a distance 
 before we found that we had taken the wrong 
 road, which terminated abruptly and left us in a 
 thick forest without a road or a sign of one. The 
 vines and brush were so densely grown that it was 
 almost impassable. The monkeys were scamper- 
 ing about with great glee, but looking as if they 
 were very much surprised to see us. Mr. Greer 
 began to get a little out of humor. As he was the 
 guide and leader, his task was more difficult than 
 mine — I being '*only a passenger." On this occar 
 sion a frequent resort to the bottle seemed to be 
 his consolation in the dilemma. After having con- 
 sulted the whisky several times he passed it to me, 
 with the ludicrous question, " how are ive to get out 
 of this ? " After creeping through the brush we 
 
16 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 we managed to find an Indian hut, where we ob- 
 tained an Indian breakfast, at the hour of 12 m. 
 We obtained a good rest, and engaged an Indian 
 to take us to our road, which we found in about 
 two hours. Night found us in another Indian 
 village, called Jicaral, where we took up our abode 
 for the night. 
 
 The morning dawned beautifully, and we set 
 out at an early hour. It was a general rule that 
 travelers should journey only in the cool hours of 
 the morning, until about nine o'clock, and before 
 breakfasting. We were now on the right course, 
 but the road being rough and mountainous, our 
 mules traveled very slow, and required a great 
 amount of persuasion to urge them along, and the 
 persuaders, as we called them, comprised of very 
 heavy Spanish spurs, seemed to have lost their 
 persuasive powers, and the mules seemed to stand 
 the strokes stoically and comjolacently. We 
 traveled along until eight o'clock, and halted at an 
 old Indian hut for 'the night. The next morning 
 we started before daylight, in order to reach our 
 destination before the night; being very dark it 
 was difficult to find our way, which was a narrow 
 path through a hilly country, overgrown with dense 
 underbrush. 
 
 It was my turn to carry the money, this morn- 
 ing, on my mule. It weighed about thirty jDOunds, 
 and a very inconvenient pack it made, tied to the 
 back of my saddle. Being unable to see my way, 
 except occasionally as I caught sight of Mr. Greer's 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 17 
 
 figure in the advance, I allowed the mule to find 
 its own way to the best of its instinct and ability. 
 While endeavoring to ascend a very steep bank, 
 the poor animal made a mistep, gave a lunge, and 
 slipped through the girth, leaving myself, pack 
 and saddle in the rear. Fortunately I clung to 
 the halter, and soon, with great difficulty, saddled 
 again, and presently overtook Mr. Greer. 
 
 About noon we found ourselves in the town of 
 Matagalpa, where we refreshed ourselves with a 
 hearty lunch, and were soon on our way to the 
 mines, nine miles beyond. We arrived between 
 four and five o'clock. This mine was in charge of 
 an American employed by Mr. Greer. It is a gold 
 quartz mine, running in a regular ledge, and is 
 worked by the old Spanish arastas, that only save 
 about two-thirds of the gold. 
 
 The morning after our arrival they were ready 
 to clean up, and calculated there was about ten 
 tons of quartz crushed, of which the results were 
 three pounds of gold, or, by close figures, 3 lbs. 
 8 oz., making $7,680; and there are plenty of good 
 quartz mines in other localities fully as rich. The 
 dense vegetation is a great obstable to discovering 
 ledges. The Indians have frequently brought in 
 specimens of gold quartz that are very rich. 
 
 I found the climate here cool and pleasant, the 
 soil well adapted to the raising of grain — some 
 wheat is already raised, but to no great extent. 
 The hills are covered with an abundance of grass, 
 the wild stock roll in fattening feed, and regale 
 themselves on the j)urest of water. 
 
18 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 The quartz mill was run by water. Mr. Greer 
 has the benefit of three falls, sufficient in power 
 and amount of water to run half a dozen mills. 
 
 We remained at this mine five days. Duiing my 
 stay, I availed myself of a bath in the river. My 
 feet were very sore, as I supposed from the wearing 
 of the heavy spurs, but on examination I found 
 my spurs innocent of the charge, for, quite to the 
 contrary, I found my heels filled with jiggers. 
 Taking my penknife, I soon removed three large 
 nests of these abominable little insects. Filling 
 the places with tallow, I put on my boots, and was 
 ti^oubled no more with sore heels. 
 
 After we had spent five days, we started on our 
 return to the city of Leon. As Mr. Greer had 
 business in the town of Matagalpa, that would oc- 
 cupy one day, he left the mines a day in advance 
 of me. On the following day I started, accom- 
 panied by one of his native employes, to overtake 
 him at Matagalpa, and arrived in due time; but as 
 Mr. Greer had not fully completed his business, 
 I pushed on, leaving him to overtake me. As we 
 had more load now we had an extra mule, and a 
 native to lead him. As Mr. Greer was behind, I 
 was traveling quite unarmed, and entirely alone, 
 excej)t the native sjDoken of; but having left the 
 gold with Mr. Greer, I was not in as much danger 
 of being molested, and the native knowing the 
 money was left, would not be as a^^t to turn as- 
 sassin, neither did he know that I was unarmed; 
 they know the Americans always traveled armed. 
 
I 
 
 ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 19 
 
 However we traveled along the remainder of the 
 day without the appearance of Mr. Greer, and 9 
 o'clock came before we found a house, or a place 
 where we could obtain food or shelter for ourselves 
 and tired animals. 
 
 Just before dusk I noticed there were four or 
 five natives along with us. They had joined us 
 with a small pack train and continued with us 
 until we stopped for the night. It was an un- 
 common incident for them to travel so late, and I 
 considered their company no compliment to our 
 party, therefore kept an eye on them. 
 
 As I took the lead, and as the road was good 
 and the moon shone very bright, I felt very little 
 anxiety. Just before nine o'clock my native took 
 a branch road, saying we will take this canento 
 where we shall find a house and probably some- 
 thing to eat. As I rode up to the Indian hut and 
 dismounted, I inquired for something to eat — the 
 Response came, *'no aqui mvy tarde" — not any 
 too late. I then asked for some feed for our ani- 
 mals. The reply was the same. Looking around, 
 I discovered another hut at a short distance, 
 and sent the native who was helping me to make 
 similar inquiries. Meantime I commenced taking 
 off the saddle with the determination to stay, food 
 or no food. I could hear the natives who had 
 been traveling with us singing and whooping 
 where they had camped in the road, close by. 
 After I had removed the saddle, the native of the 
 house concluded to give me some feed, and came 
 
20 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 out with his knife and rope, to cut and carry it 
 with. He asked how much I wanted, and after 
 waiting about half an hour, he returned with as 
 much as he could carry, and about an hour after 
 my native came with some food. After feeding 
 the animals, as we were enjoying a hearty su^Dper, 
 a Spaniard rode up and asked if w^e were not 
 traveling with Mr. Greer, and informed us that he 
 had just passed; we tried to hail him, but it was a 
 useless attempt, and we rested easy until morning. 
 The next morning we were on our way very 
 early, and at about nine o'clock caught up with 
 Mr. Greer, and packing our mule with about three 
 thousand dollars of gold, that he had buried, we 
 proceeded on our way, and nothing else occurred 
 worthy of record until we arrived at Leon — but we 
 traveled day and night, carrying our food with us. 
 Having no regular hour for eating, we replenished 
 the inner man whenever we felt like it. Our food 
 consisted of a kind of bread called ** tortas," 
 made of corn, boiled in strong lye of ashes. It is 
 usually made in the evening, and allowed to cool 
 over night. In the morning it is placed in a 
 wooden tray, usually about 100 pounds at a time, 
 and carried on the heads of the maharos sometimes 
 a mile to the river, where a large hole is made in a 
 rock, where the corn is deposited; a little fresh 
 water is added; then the maharos get into it with 
 both feet and keep up a constant pounding, which 
 takes off the hulls. It is then washed with fresh 
 water. After this process is completed, it is 
 
ESCAPES IN NICAEAGUA. 21 
 
 ground between two rocks hewn and cut for the 
 purpose. The flat rock is usually 12 by 18 inches 
 square; flat on top, about three inches in thick- 
 ness, with three legs under it — another rock is used 
 to grind — water is used when it is ground; after 
 this process it is in the shape of dough, and ready 
 to bake. The baking apparatus is a kind of 
 earthen pan or skillet, made out of clay, burnt 
 very hard for the purpose. After this material is 
 well baked it is called torta. How I used to hate 
 the sound of the torta stones ! It seems but yes- 
 terday, yet a year fraught with many changes has 
 [ rolled away since I heard that grating, annoying 
 I sound of bread-making in Nicaragua. 
 
 There is much to be remembered in Central 
 I America of beauty and pleasure. The fair skies, 
 I the evergreen verdure, the creeping flowering vines, 
 that wave among the branches of the tallest trees 
 I and shake their rich blossoms in the sunlight from 
 January to January; the fine fruits, the tropic 
 flowers, the fascinating climate — are all worthy of 
 [ special mention. Nowhere in the world is to be 
 I found such exquisite breaths of purity and warmth, 
 [as in this charming atmosphere. Gaily plumaged 
 [birds, — rare specimens, — flit and chirp among 
 [more gorgeous blossoms, until the forests seem 
 [alive with bright bodies of orange, red, and purple. 
 [Much could be written of the birds of Central 
 I America, and the botanist would find it a choice 
 [field for collections and scientific research. 
 
22 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 CHAPTEK III. 
 
 A TRIP TO THE IVHNES OF XICORO, IN 1867. 
 
 The year 1866 has passed away, with its many 
 wild and varied incidents, and 1867 still finds me 
 exploring the country, and so far have accumulated 
 nothing but information. Unlike many others, who 
 have simply come and gone, I am determined to 
 remain until I am well acquainted with the ad- 
 vantages, the rescources, and products of Nicara- 
 gua. 
 
 After spending Christmas in the city of Leon, 
 and about the town of Kisiluaka, I began making 
 preparations for the mines. I was obliged to buy 
 a horse and saddle, to be ready to accompany our 
 party, who were busy making their preparations. 
 January 10th found us on our way en route for 
 Xicoro. Our party consisted of five Americans, 
 with a native to look after our stock. Being well 
 armed and equipped for the occasion, we antici- 
 pated a jolly trip. 
 
 We left Leon at nine o'clock, and traveled along 
 splendidly until we reached the pozos — the wells — 
 twelve miles from the city and camped for the 
 night. We arrived at this place at two o'clock. 
 The natives charged us for water, having to draw 
 it from a well. After we had fed and watered our 
 stock, we began making preparations for supper. 
 
ESCAPES IN NICAKAGUA. 23 
 
 Of course we did our own cooking, and everybody 
 seemed to do his share of the eating. After supper, 
 we enjoyed a smoke, with good cigars that only 
 cost one cent. I seemed to be the **black sheep" 
 of the party, or rather the unlucky one; having 
 the chills and fever, I had to abandon smoking, 
 which was quite a sacrifice — previously it was my 
 greatest luxury. The fever and ague came upon 
 me this evening, the first time for four or five days. 
 With a journey of 225 miles before me, a raging 
 fever and alternative chills was a poor prospect; 
 but rather than go back to Leon, I would proceed 
 if I suffered a thousand deaths. 
 
 The next morning we were on our way at eight 
 o'clock, and traveled as far as the ranch of Dr. 
 Gwzman, a distance of several miles — here we 
 camped again. The next morning broke up camp 
 at eight o'clock and crossed a river twice, and at 
 five o'clock '^struck tent" on the east bank. The 
 next day we crossed the same river four times, and 
 passed through an Indian town by the name of 
 Jicaral, and pushed on rapidly two miles further 
 to the mines of Fitzgerald, a German. He has a 
 ten stamp mill erected that runs by steam, and the 
 mines he rents. "We camped for the night at an 
 early hour. On the morning of the 14th, the sad- 
 dler, Theo. Kelsey and myself, remained at the 
 mill, while the rest of the party went on with the 
 train. We remained until the next morning, in 
 order to get a supply of qu^jtfiilvjer for our 
 mines. 
 
24 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 The 15th found us en route again, each carrying 
 ten pounds of quicksilver. We passed through 
 Santa Rosa, a small Indian village, and crossed 
 a crooked twisting river four times during the day, 
 and several small creeks; also crossed the summit 
 of the first mountain, and as we turned our back 
 we could see Lake Managua quite visible, but at a 
 great distance. It looked bright and smooth as a 
 muTor, and the day was one of the loveliest. The 
 birds sent forth their clearest notes, and the whole 
 scene was one of picturesque beauty. As we 
 neared the summit, we halted under a pine tree, 
 and on a splendid grass plat, threw off the saddles, 
 gave the horses a good bait and ourselves a delight- 
 ful rest. After a refreshing slumber, we proceeded 
 on our way with refreshed horses, and traveled at 
 a lively speed. 
 
 On the 16th and 17th, we passed several fine stock 
 ranches, and saw some of the finest horses and 
 cattle to be found anywhere. The grass was knee 
 deep, and very nutritious. We passed a great 
 many natives bound for a Fair, held in a 
 town called Sauci, where they generally take 
 their fat cattle and sell them at a very low 
 price. At dark on the 17th, we came upon the 
 camp of our party, near a small town called 
 Cauda. 
 
 On the following morning we broke camp, hav- 
 ing lost one mule — the result was a late start. We 
 made eighteen miles and camped in a small village 
 called Poloofuena. 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 25 
 
 On the loth we crossed a spur of tlie mountains 
 and descended into a dark glen, which terminated 
 at last by opening out upon a valley, through 
 which a clear stream was flowing. On the north 
 side of this stream, lies the really pretty town 
 (Indian town) of Telpaneca. While in camp here 
 we had a call from a Padre, a very pleasant appear- 
 ing Spaniard. This was of course an incident. We 
 traveled along without interruption for two days; 
 finding good feed for the stock, plenty of good 
 water and excellent roads. 
 
 On the 21st we passed a large sugar house, 
 or mill, owned by a native, which seemed 
 to be in good order and prosperity. We arrived 
 in Xicoro about half past two o'clock, and were 
 glad to ''pitch our tents." 
 
 We found the mines we desired to reach were 
 about twenty-five miles from the town, so we re- 
 plenished our stock of provisions. We were aug- 
 mented in members at this place by a party of 
 Germans, who overtook us, and like ourselves were 
 prospecting the country. 
 
 On the 23d we made a fresh start with a large 
 party, all in good spirits. We bade farewell to 
 Xicoro about half-past nine in the morning. 
 Xicoro is the center of a population made up of 
 Indians, negroes, Spanish — and the king of dark- 
 ness knows what else; but at all events the blood 
 of the place is black, spotted, yellow and tan, 
 with evidences and results of a variety from the 
 
26 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 mixture of all these elements. It was a horrible 
 looking town! 
 
 On the evening of our first day's travel we 
 camped on the banks of a small river where the 
 busy hum of industry is heard; the spade and 
 shovel had made havoc with nature's original 
 features; a dam had just been erected on the river 
 for mining purposes, and a quartz mill in process 
 of building — several have been erected since — they 
 are generally owned by the natives. 
 
 On the 24th we commenced the ascent of the 
 hill, which was so steep that we could not ride up, 
 and were obliged to leave a man with our cargo — 
 we had about ten miles yet to make, and through 
 a very rough and brushy country. We soon came 
 to the mine on the hill called the Domingo Manta, 
 in charge of Dr. C. Lockwood, an American. The 
 Doctor invited us into his cabin, gave us a drink of 
 his native rum, over which we toasted the old man 
 well — he bidding us good speed. Leaving this 
 place we left the last sign of civilization, and after 
 traveling only about forty rods, we began to cut 
 our way through a young forest of thick under- 
 growth. Three of us drove' the train, while the 
 balance cut the way. We traveled a mile in this 
 way, and then camped in a gulch for the night. 
 
 OUR BILL OF FARE. 
 
 We did not serve our meals in fashionable style. 
 Neither did we observe any hours for dining; 
 whenever it was convenient we had dinner, and 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 27 
 
 took our supper usually at the same time. Each 
 man cuts his own broiling stick and cooks to suit 
 his taste. Coffee is always made — dried meat and 
 bread made the bulk of our meal; dessert usually 
 consisted of jokes and songs and a long smoke. 
 
 CUTTING OUR WAY THROUGH. 
 
 The next day the men set at work cutting a 
 path through the brush again — being ill I was left 
 as keeper of camp. The boys worked at the brush 
 till night set in, and returned to camp. There 
 were so many of us, our evenings were very 
 pleasantly spent in speaking of our past ex- 
 periences, past friends and future anticipations. 
 
 On the 25th we made our way through the under- 
 growth and arrived at our destination on the Eio 
 Thomasa. It seemed queer to call it home. It 
 was surrounded by a dense forest and was in the 
 midst of an unexplored country, inhabited by noth- 
 ing but wild beasts. The first night of our stay 
 we were awakened by the roaring of the wild beast 
 known as the donta, an animal belonging to the 
 monkey species, but generally very black, making- 
 its home in the tallest trees and seldom seen; 
 whenever they set up a howl they make the forest 
 ring with a hideous noise, though one seldom hears 
 but one at a time. 
 
 The following morning we set about devising 
 and calculating where to locate our cabin, etc. 
 However, we soon found a spot and set about 
 
28 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 clearing a space to build on. A portion of the 
 party went prospecting, while I went back for the 
 balance of our cargo. I had missed my chills for 
 three days, and commenced to recover my courage, 
 and resume my former habits of smoking^and en- 
 joying myself with the balance. 
 
 I found our cargo all right and arrived in camp 
 with it all safe and sound without an accident of 
 any kind. We were obliged to build our cabins as 
 rapidly as possible, for the rainy season was close 
 at hand and it was necessary to protect ourselves 
 from it at once. We turned out with all the force 
 we could command, and the first day I disabled 
 myself by cutting my foot; one of the boys was 
 taken sick and had to be taken to Domingo. The 
 Germans finished prospecting and started on their 
 return to the city, having to take one of the boys 
 to look after the sick man; this left us with only 
 three, and in this condition the rain came, and 
 poured down almost two weeks steadily. My 
 chills came on and with a crippled foot I was in- 
 deed in a bad condition. My constitution must 
 have been the very best, or I should never have 
 lived through it. Not having a dry place to get 
 into, another of our party fell sick with fever and 
 ague, and at this time only one was left at each 
 camp to care for the sick, except our hired native 
 who took care of the horses; but before the last 
 was taken down two had succeeded in getting the 
 cabin partially up, and one side covered far enough 
 to protect us from the rain. Sad and gloomy 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 29 
 
 nights followed, when nothing was heard but the 
 growl of the tiger, or the bark of a wolf as they 
 made their nightly approaches to the enclosure of 
 the camp. We always kept our firearms close to 
 us. We slept in hammocks attached to the joists 
 of the cabin; here we laid and shook with the ague. 
 Our shaking caused the leaves and dirt to fall through 
 from the roof, and sometimes it seemed as if there 
 must be an earthquake. Finally we began to gain 
 in health, and began to think of putting the horses 
 to pasture if we could find a trusty native to take 
 charge of them, and take them out of the canon 
 before they should break their necks climbing over 
 the rough sides of the mountains. My horse had 
 pitched over one precipice, landing in a brush 
 heap, and it took an hour to cut him out of it. 
 
 We were running short of provisions, and to 
 kill two birds with one stone, we had the horses 
 brought round, and one of the boys with our hired 
 man took them to pasture, and at the same time 
 went on to Xicoro with one mule to get provisions, 
 for we were on short rations of beans and hominy, 
 but we could say we had the best in camp to eat, 
 and while we were at dinner some one would start 
 up the impromtu song of — 
 
 " Hominy, hominy, beans and corn," 
 Sung to the tune of — 
 
 " Eabbit foot, rabbit foot. 
 Nails and claws." 
 One would say, *'oh dry up, it's ill manners to 
 sing at the table." *'Well, what's the diiference 
 
30 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 in a wild country like this? You never intend 
 to be among civilized people again then, I sup- 
 pose ?" 
 
 *'0f course I do, and then we can be more man- 
 nerly." 
 
 '* Probably not; it's better to improve your man- 
 ners, or at least preserve what you have, for you 
 are becoming so ill mannered that when you return 
 to civilization you will not know how to conduct 
 yourself properly," 
 
 *'If we stay in this country, well be behind the 
 fashions anyhow." 
 
 '*I'd like to know what fashion has to do with 
 manners, or with us here; just wait till we make a 
 fortune, and we shall find use enough for our man- 
 ners, and probably fashion also." 
 
 ''How long shall we have to wait?" 
 
 ''Time will tell; in about three months the story 
 will be told." 
 
 "Yes, and probably a bad one; we shall doubt- 
 less be making tracks with our heels towards the 
 camp." 
 
 After Mr. Tompkins arrived with one mule 
 loaded with provisions, we commenced gaining 
 in health and nearly ready to commence work 
 again; but our continued bad luck seemed to have 
 its way. Hardly a day passed but something 
 happened of a disagreeable nature or formed into 
 accidents to prevent our carrying into execution 
 our plans and designs. 
 
 The native who went with Mr. Tompkins to take 
 
ESCAPES IN NICAKAGUA. 31 
 
 the horses to pasture and get provisions, only suc- 
 ceeded in getting back as far as the pasture. Mr. 
 Tompkins supposed he was merely idling along, 
 but he was mistaken, he stole one of the best mules 
 with a pack saddle and made his escape unmolested, 
 and was never heard of again. 
 
 The man who was taken ill and carried to 
 Domingo, required a man to go to his assistance, 
 and this reduced our number to three, and a heavy 
 task to commence; unable as we were it had to be 
 done, for **at this stage of the game" there was no 
 backing out. 
 
 We had to saw lumber by hand, a ditch to dig 
 and a dam to build to turn the river; timber that 
 was suitable for lumber was scarce and hard to 
 obtain, being on a very steep hillside, and owing 
 to the dense growth of light brush, we had double 
 work to perform, for the underbrush had to be 
 cleared before we could work at the heavy timber; 
 a sawpit had to be constructed, and with skids and 
 hand spikes roll the logs down the hill on to the 
 sawpit; by this means we could use our saw. 
 After cutting down one tree, we made one sawpit; 
 but we had two sawpits to make, having one tree 
 on each side of the river; while two of us were en- 
 gaged sawing lumber, another was digging the 
 ditch; but owing to our poor health the work pro- 
 ceded very slowly, still we made good use of our 
 time, for it was a struggle akin to that of life and 
 death. 
 
 In a month's time we had cut and sawed out 
 
32 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 three hundred feet of lumber, enough to make our 
 sluice-boxes, and one hundred yards of ditch dug. 
 We were now ready to build the dam. The river 
 was about ten feet wide, about one foot deep with a 
 very swift current that required a substantial dam. 
 Heavy timbei^ were needed, and we were obliged 
 to cut them above the spot where we intended 
 building it and roll them down by hand. Our 
 provisions were getting low again, and we found 
 we should be obliged to suspend work or replenish 
 the * 'larder." By sending word to Domingo, we 
 learned that our sick man was so far recovered as 
 to be able to dispense with the man who attended 
 him, at least long enough for him to take a load of 
 provisions to our camp. We found one ready 
 means of supply; if we could spare the time to 
 take our guns and go into the forest, we could 
 catch as many wild turkeys as we needed, oc- 
 casionally we brought one down from the trees by 
 firing from our cabin door. One evening we suc- 
 ceeded in catching game without going to the door 
 e ven . Just after dark , after retiring to our * * bunks , ' ' 
 a word always used for bed, I believe, by miners, 
 hunters, trappers, and travelers, I heard a scram- 
 bling noise that seemed to be in the joists in the 
 front part of the room; after trying to discover 
 what it was through the dim light of the fire, I 
 finally discovered an animal setting there helping 
 himself to our jerked beef, but no sooner had I 
 spoken than one of the boys gTasped a rifle and 
 brought him to the floor; knowing it was a deadly 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 33 
 
 shot, we did not leave our bunks to investigate the 
 matter until morning. On arising in the morning, 
 we found a possum lying in one of the pains that 
 borders on dissolution; the next movement on our 
 part was to throw him over the hill — no meat made, 
 but some saved. 
 
 After another arrival of provisions, we intended 
 to give the river a test, before standing in need of 
 another supply, if possible. Having a skiff all 
 completed, and our dam nearly built, we knew it 
 would not be many days before we could ascertain 
 whether we had gold in the river bottom or not. 
 As we came near the completion of this dam, we 
 had reinforcements, which was not at all surpris- 
 ing, but during the hard work we had it all to our- 
 selves; so at this time we were honored with look- 
 ers on, who were in our way, but not able to give 
 us a lift. A foreigner who had just arrived from 
 Leon, knowing something about carpenter work, 
 was soon engaged making sluice-boxes. The two 
 boys in the Domingo camp made their appearance 
 about this time, making six in number, but the 
 returned convalescents were hardly able to help 
 us, and were little disposed to go into the hard 
 work as we had been working for so many weeks. 
 A few days would decide the matter, and settle the 
 question as to whether our labor had been all in 
 vain or not. 
 
 Now, after the dam was completed, a heavy 
 shower of rain came, (and having the river turned 
 into the channel) and causing the river to take a sud- 
 
34 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 den rise, it broke over the side of the channel, causing 
 the stream to flowback into the main river-bed again. 
 After the flow had subsided, it required three days 
 to repair it. We finally succeeded in draining the 
 river, and set our sluice-boxes. Finding the bed 
 of the river almost on the bed-rock, allowing us 
 but little dirt or gravel to wash, it was not a very 
 favorable prospect for gold; still we continued to 
 sluice out the largest portion of the dirt and gravel 
 that we could find, and after twice cleaning up we 
 had obtained the sum of five dollars and a few cents. 
 For three months of hard labor and long sacrifice, 
 we had about one dollar apiece; we felt discour- 
 aged, and with good reason. 
 
 ** Now, boys, what's^ to be done ? A part of the 
 crowd had better take the^ve dollars, and get out 
 of the wilderness, and the balance of us had tet- 
 ter stay until the provisions are used up." This 
 was accepted as a good idea. The mule was 
 brought up to camp, three saddles packed on his 
 back, with two or three blankets, (having but few 
 clothes left we could carry them on our backs). 
 Three of us were now ready to travel, and three 
 would remain. Theodore Kelsey, Charles Stevens 
 and myself were ready to travel; Tompkins, Si- 
 mons and Gaston to remain in camp. Stevens 
 came to the camp on foot and was ready to leave 
 by the same conveyance. Our idea of packing the 
 mule with three saddles was only to the pasture 
 where our horses were to be found, and the mule 
 to be sent back to camp. We bade goodbye to our 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 35 
 
 friends and were en route for Leon. After we ar- 
 rived at the pasture, we started in pursuit of my 
 horse, accompanied by a native. Taking the load 
 from the mule, I mounted and the native proceed- 
 ed on foot. After we had traveled over a very 
 high mountain and down into a deep gulch, we 
 found a part of the horses, all except my own, but 
 the native followed the gulch a little further, and 
 soon came back driving the old fellow before him, 
 but he was too poor to live . I hardly recognized the 
 faithful animal. "Was it possible I was left to foot 
 it back? Not while another horse was to be found. 
 My poor beast had carried me all the way from 
 Leon to the mines when I was too ill to walk, hav- 
 ing the chills and fever, and now he was reduced 
 to a skeleton. I first thought of shooting him 
 to relieve him of his misery, but I did not 
 have the heart. I understood the reason now of 
 the boys insisting on my coming to the pasture for 
 the horses. They had surely inquired in regard 
 to the welfare of the horses, unknown to me, and 
 insisted on my coming for the purpose of seeing if 
 I would be foolish enough to go back without one 
 — if so, they were badly mistaken, for I was not 
 long catching another, and when we returned to 
 the balance of the little homeward party it was 
 quite dark, but we tied our animals and rolled up 
 in our blankets for the night. 
 
 We had no difficulty in making our way for some 
 days, not until we arrived at a road turning off 
 from our trail, leading through pueblo nuevo, and 
 
36 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 thence to Sauci, being our nearest way to Leon. 
 Leaving Santa Rosa and Jicarel to the left, we trav- 
 eled over a rolling and most beautiful prairie. The 
 scenery was the finest I had seen in the whole 
 country. Fat cattle were grazing at their leisure. 
 Our path, or road, seemed to run along on a divide 
 or ridge, and we found a scarcity of water, but 
 there seemed to be an abundance a little below on 
 either side. We traveled along this ridge until we 
 grew very thirsty, before we came to water near 
 the road, and just before we reached this place we 
 were met by a black, hairy-breasted Indian, that 
 seemed to have some negro blood in his veins, and 
 looked as though he had never worn a shirt in all 
 his life. As he emerged from the brush at the 
 roadside, he demanded a passport with his bayo- 
 net drawn, and if we had not been expecting guards 
 on the way he would have had a few charges fired 
 at him before he could have uttered the word, pasa 
 porte. As he demanded the passport, pretending 
 to be ignorant of the custom, we asked him why 
 he asked for one ? He took particular pains 
 to inform us the various reasons, and as though he 
 didn't wish any trouble. Judging well from his 
 wild appearance that he would understand Eng- 
 lish, I spoke to the boys as follows: 
 
 * * What shall we do, boys? Is it possible that we are 
 caught and are compelled to go back, and have to 
 probably suffer for water unless we can obtain it from 
 the guard? Here is only one greaser, and there are 
 three of us and two revolvers; we may rest assured 
 
to 
 
 li 
 
 ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 37 
 
 this is not the only guard, and look back there at 
 the old wall that they have made a breast-work of 
 in case of an emergency, and just before us is a 
 steep precipice to ascend, it will be impossible to 
 make our escape unless we should kill all of them, 
 if there are any more. There they come now, 
 about half a dozen of them, all armed with mus- 
 kets; we had better be a [little cautious how we 
 talk." As they came rushing up, they seemed to 
 be in quite an excited state, as though they 
 thought we were endeavoring to pass without a 
 passport. Our chance looked dismal. Of course 
 we expected to be taken prisoners. *' Oh, boys," 
 said I, '' I've got a passport in my valise, which I 
 secured in San Francisco, allowing me the privi- 
 lege of traveling through any part of the country; 
 it is written in Spanish and I paid for it in gold 
 coin." 
 
 *' It's no use to get that out," said one, "it does 
 not say anything concerning cholera" 
 
 *' Never mind, let's try it anyhow." Dismount- 
 ing, I spoke in Spanish, pretending that I had, 
 until now, forgotten the passport that I had, or 
 that I scarcely knew before what ** sii pasa porte" 
 meant. It was nearly sundown and we had but 
 little time to spare, but I was not long in securing 
 the passport and handed it to the guards. One 
 woTild read it, then another, and then they would 
 ook at the blank side of it as though they were 
 examining the quality of paper; then they would 
 look at the seal. While they were reading, we 
 
38 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 were waiting patiently, and still with doubts as to 
 its success, and most of all we feared they would 
 see that it was only a pass for one man and that it 
 would not be accepted for us all. Mr. Kelsey says 
 that he has one likewise, so we thought that far, at 
 least, we were all safe. The guard looked at us 
 all as though he scarcely knew what to do, but 
 he said he would keep the passport and we might 
 pass on. We left the pass willingly and traveled 
 along about fifty yards and began to ascend a very 
 steep mountain, where we had to dismount and 
 lead our horses, being impossible to ride, and 
 night began to draw her crimson sunset curtains 
 over the landscape, and we were soon enveloped 
 in darkness; and such a clambering over the cliffs 
 and pebble stones in the dark I never experienced 
 before. After ascending the hill about a mile, we 
 came to a flat and heavy forest, so dense that not 
 a star could be seen through the canopy of leaf 
 and branch. We mounted with one footman be- 
 hind, giving the bridles to the horses to find the 
 way by their better instinct. Sometimes we were 
 obliged to strike a match when the horses would 
 lose the trail. We soon came to a river, where we 
 drank too much water for our own comfort. We 
 tied our horses and rolled ourselves in our blank- 
 ets for the remainder of the night, sleeping sound- 
 ly until the morning light pierced the interlocking 
 branches of the forest, giving us the first view of 
 the morning in silver lines, creeping through the 
 heavy thickness of interlacing leaves. 
 
f .OF THB 
 
 f UNIVERSITT 
 
 ESCAPES IN NICARAfe«i^jCUIFqRH\^,^ 39 
 
 We resumed our journey after a hearty break- 
 fast, and at 9 o'clock came to an Indian hut, where 
 we again refreshed ourselves and proceeded on to 
 Sauci, which is quite a magnificent looking place 
 for an Indian town. We passed directly through, 
 making no stop, as we desired to reach Kisiluaka 
 as soon as possible, where we designed remaining 
 until we could get particular news from Leon in 
 regard to cholera^ though we expected to meet our 
 friend Covert there, and find protection for a time. 
 However, being disappointed in finding him, his 
 hired native prepared dinner for us, and as well as 
 we could ascertain from the natives the cholera 
 was not raging in Leon, but a few cases were known 
 in the vicinity. Being old acquaintances with the 
 natives, they insisted upon us taking dinner, and 
 cut a chicken's head off before we could scarcely 
 make a reply. After finishing dinner we ventured 
 upon our journey and rode on to Leon, where we 
 would be sure to find our friend, and one that we 
 would not be mistaken in. He was an old filli- 
 buster of the Walker fame, and a resident of Nica- 
 ragua about fifteen years, and one of the best Amer- 
 ican residents of the country. His friendship is 
 not based upon the amount of money a man may 
 have, for I had no money, and if he was not a 
 friend of mine, the symptoms were very deceitful, 
 that's all. On our first arrival in Nicaragua, he 
 interested himself in our welfare, gave good advice 
 and rendered prompt assistance. While we were 
 at the mines he took out our mail matter, and paid 
 
40 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 twenty-five cents per letter, and forwarded them 
 to us, taking the chances of getting his money 
 back; this man is J. Thomas, and a man who need 
 not be ashamed of his name. *'We shall not fail 
 to visit him whether we have money or not," we 
 said, and were soon before his door. He came out to 
 us with a smile on his face, and with a look that 
 seemed to say, '*I expected to see you return in 
 this condition." ''Well my friends, '*said he," are 
 you willing to give up now ? Get down and put 
 your horses out, I will send a man to feed them, 
 and if you will own up beat, I will take you in, 
 and hope you will make this your home until you 
 see your way further. " 
 
 Being glad to accept the offer we did not hesi- 
 tate long ovej the conditions, but came to terms at 
 once. Our horses were well cared for, a good 
 cigar apiece, and a seat in the pleasant shade fell 
 to our lot, while to the amusement of Mr. Thomas 
 we began to narrate our trip to the mines and in- 
 cidents that occurred during our absence. It was 
 the general impression that we made a desperate 
 strike, had endured many hardships and obliged 
 to succumb at last to failure and poverty. After 
 enjoying a meal fit for a king, we set out for a 
 walk around the city, and met a few of our 
 friends who had not yet left the country in dis- 
 gust. They were anxious to obtain information 
 from and of the mines, and assailed us with in- 
 quiries, but our replies were not very encouraging. 
 Eiver and placer mining in Nicaragua has been in- 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 41 
 
 variably a failure; still people are not always 
 satisfied until they.make the experiment for them- 
 selves. We felt that we had made one for our- 
 selves, and our number was growing less and less 
 every day, and there would not be enough left to 
 make another at the rate they were falling off. As 
 to making a settlement, it was necessary to keep 
 together, and the most productive and tillable 
 lands lay in the interior. The country Americans 
 ought to settle is some distance from the coast; 
 high, cool, pleasant and healthy. Being situated 
 far from market, a small colony cannot go to the 
 expense of building a road, which is really the first 
 thing to be done, and cannot be dispensed with. 
 In the lowlands is good soil, but malaria of all 
 kinds seems to infest the place, and Americans 
 will not settle in these localities. If a society in- 
 tend to populate the country they must all settle 
 together, and depend upon one another for as- 
 sistance. 
 
 The American minister had no foreman on his 
 cotton plantation to take charge of about sixty na- 
 tives, (there is a probability of final settlement of 
 this country, but not while Americans have to seek 
 work to save themselves from- starving.) After re- 
 maining about a week with Mr. Thomas, I made a 
 bargain with the American minister, A. B. Dicken- 
 son, to take charge of the plantation, though for 
 very low wages, with a refusal of better eventually. I 
 therefore saddled my gray and went to the planta- 
 tion. Being at the suburbs of the city it was only 
 
42 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 about half a mile from the minister's office. I was 
 soon made known as the foreman of the ranch, 
 and took the men and went out to the cotton field 
 and set them at work, and made an excellent 
 start. For the first three days the natives turned 
 their work out well without any difficulty. The min- 
 ister was in the habit of calling upon me every 
 day, until business caused him to be absent several 
 days, then the natives began to be reckless. Not 
 being slaves, we could not compel them to work, 
 but they hated to have their wages docked, so we 
 made a general rule to weigh their cotton every 
 evening, and if it was short what was considered 
 a day's work, we would dock five or ten cents on 
 the work. They then, between themselves, adopt- ' 
 ed a plan when they could get out of my sight of 
 throwing dice for handsful of cotton. Of course 
 some would be in arrears at night, and the winners 
 would have an over amount of cotton to be credited 
 to them. 
 
 On the second day of the minister's depaiiure, 
 the natives grew heedless and impertinent, and re- 
 cognized me no longer as their foreman, but from 
 appearances I saw they intended to appoint one of 
 their own number — one who had held the position 
 previous to my appointment. However, I endeav- 
 ored to convince them to the contrary. I came in 
 contact with the native foreman, and requested 
 him to conduct his men better. I soon found I 
 had hurt his feelings, and he was getting very 
 angry, but exhibited no signs of rebellion. He 
 
I 
 
 ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 43 
 
 spoke in a very abrupt manner, saying *' the min- 
 ister had not hired him to work." I told him 
 ** he was hired to do as I bade him, if not to work 
 to attend strictly to the men that were working." 
 I was not in a condition for any contention, being 
 quite unarmed, and the native, more for pretension 
 than anything else, was always armed with a pistol 
 and knife, and as I made the last remark, he said 
 that if I *' was the superior boss " he would leave 
 the field and leave them in my charge alone. I told 
 him I could do as well without him. He started 
 off, saying nothing about his pay, but scarcely had 
 I time to take a walk among the men, and set them 
 to picking the cotton better, when he returned, go- 
 ing to a party of men and conversing with them; 
 at the same time I was discharging a man for ill- 
 conduct and bad work, paid him and bade him 
 leave the field. On hearing this, they shouted they 
 would all leave, taking up their cotton sacks at the 
 same time, though rather hesitating to see if I 
 would take the discharged man back, rather than 
 have them all leave. To their astonishment, I 
 started for the end of the cotton rows where my 
 horse was tied, and told them to come on, that if 
 they quit work they would not get their money un- 
 til the minister's return, or until Saturday, the reg- 
 ular pay day. They gave a hideous scream, and 
 came after me with a rush, gaining ground on me 
 as I mounted. I waited to see the next move, and 
 as they all came up, they drew their knives, demand- 
 ing their pay, and threatening my life. I consid- 
 
44 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 ered it about time to leave. I gave my liorse tlie 
 whip, and was at the house long in advance of 
 them. I got my revolver and put it in my shirt 
 bosom, waiting patiently for the scoundrels to 
 make their arrival; but presently they came with a 
 rush and a warwhoop, stamping their cotton down, 
 at the same time waiving their knives at a desper- 
 ate rate. I stood firm and unexcited, relying alto- 
 gether on my revolver. If I had not had this good, 
 reliable friend, I should have given up the field. 
 After a desperate argument, and after the natives 
 had cooled down again, and found that I was too 
 stubborn and headstrong for them, the native 
 *' boss " came and asked me if I would allow them 
 to go to work again. I gave them their choice, to 
 quit or go to work. Taking work in preference to 
 a discharge, they started for the field, though I 
 called the **boss" back, and gave him orders to take 
 charge of the men alone, until the minister re- 
 turned, and I would only take charge of 'them 
 about the house, and if the work was not done as 
 it should be I would discharge them all at once. 
 He made the agreement, and things went on 
 smoothly until the minister returned, when I ren- 
 dered my report. The natives trembled with fear 
 when he gave the answer that if they wished to 
 leave they were to be paid off the next day. As 
 he spoke in English, I interpreted for him in Span- 
 ish. Pretending to be better friends than ever, 
 they had no intention whatever of leading, but 
 quite wilHng to work under my orders. 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 
 
 45 
 
 I was tired and worn with my hardships in the 
 mines. I found it a hard task to stand over them, 
 and I believe the old man made it an invariable 
 rule to visit the field in the heat of the day, at 
 which time he usually found me in the shade of a 
 tree, if there was one near. This would discour- 
 age the old man so that he wouldn't talk about bet- 
 ter wages, and the low wages I was getting dis- 
 couraged me too. My wages would not allow me 
 a suit of clothes suitable for the business I was in; 
 besides the natives respected the well dressed man, 
 
 and were more obedient to one who looked better 
 
 I^Bhan they did. Still the minister was hard to 
 '^"please, and we could hardly see things alike, so I 
 took my little dimes and left. 
 
 I saddled up the gray again, and was on my way 
 [once more, with no hope of making a fortune at 
 resent. 
 
46 ADVENTURES AND NAEROW 
 
 CHAPTER lY. 
 
 A TRIP TO VIRGIN BAY AND SAN JUAN DEL SUR. 
 
 Leaving the cotton plantation, I made a visit to 
 Kisiluaka, and then set out for a trip to the transit, 
 and by way of Lake Nicaragua. This trip was made 
 in company with a German and a party of natives, 
 of whom my friend hired a mule for the occasion. 
 We left the city June the 8th, passed several 
 ranches that seemed to be deserted or owned by 
 natives, that w^ere no doubt lurking somewhere 
 on the lookout for travelers. "We traveled about 
 eight miles and stopped at Pueblo Nuevo for the 
 night. The day had been very warm, and our 
 horses were very tired, although the roads were 
 excellent and well shaded. The next day we 
 journeyed about five leagues before passing a 
 habitation, until we arrived at Nagarote. The breeze 
 and shade made it delightful traveling. About one 
 league from Nagarote we crossed the Rio San Remon, 
 and about a mile and a half further came to Lake 
 Managua, and then traveled on the beach for a 
 mile and stopped at the Pueblo Mateare four and 
 a half leagues, and stopped at Nagarote. This place 
 is a most filthy Indian town and overrun with bed- 
 bugs. On the morning of the 10th, we traveled 
 about six leagues to Masaya, where the natives 
 left the pack train, one of them continuing the 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 47 
 
 journey with us to Granada. We passed Masaca two 
 and a half leagues, and halted at an Indian hut 
 for the night, among the banana orchards. Our 
 chances for supper were rather slim. On the 
 morning of the 11th, after a rain during the night, 
 (it was still cloudy,) we took an early start and 
 traveled past some heavy forests and some fine 
 grazing land, and arrived at Granada, where we 
 remained the following day. During this time I 
 sold my horse, and on the 12th we were ready to 
 take a flat-boat that was bound for the island of 
 Ometeper. The boat was owned by natives, and the 
 first night on the lake we *were caught in a heavy 
 rain, having no shelter for protection except our 
 blankets. Occasionally while rowing among the 
 islands, the natives would pull us under a wide 
 spreading thickly-leaved tree, that afforded very 
 good shelter during the heaviest showers. There 
 were too many islands to attempt to run by sail, 
 and the Indian was the poorest excuse of a row- 
 an I ever met. After rowing awhile and resting 
 awhile, we finally rowed to shore, and remained 
 over night. The next morning we were gladdened 
 ►y the sight of the warm sunlight and antici- 
 pated an early and pleasant start ; but when 
 we saw our natives making for the woods in 
 search of meat, we were greatly vexed. After 
 an absence of about two hours they came back 
 with a large iguana, an animal apparently belong- 
 ing to the alligator family, averaging about four feet 
 in length. They generally live in the trees near the 
 
48 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 water edge, and when disturbed they plunge into 
 the water and dive like a fish. The Indians gener- 
 ally go in companies of three or four, with long 
 knives, and while one climbs a tree the balance 
 wait below, having waded out into the water, with 
 knives ready to strike when the animal lea^^s in; 
 frequently they catch them in their arms. 
 
 After the iguana was dressed he was cut in pieces 
 with a knife, tail and ^1 put into a kettle and well 
 boiled; green plantains were also roasted. After 
 the iguana was boiled the skin was taken off, and 
 the meat appeared as white as a chicken. It was a 
 great rarity, and with our bread and cheese we had 
 a splendid meal, and were soon floating down the 
 lake again at a slow speed, and passed through 
 a very deep and quiet part of the lake. The water 
 was without a ripple. We soon came to another 
 place where the water was green with plants, caus- 
 ing us to imagine we were in very shallow water, 
 until to our great astonishment we found they 
 grew on the surface of the water. To satisfy our 
 curiosity, as the boat passed we lifted them by the 
 top and dropped them again into the same place; 
 the roots fell below, acting as a kind of balance to 
 the plants setting so gracefully on the surface. The 
 Americans call it the sea-cabbage; it looks like a 
 bunch of lettuce. 
 
 After we had gained some distance from shore, 
 we were favored with a good breeze, and hoisting 
 our sails were soon landed on the island of Amo- 
 tapa, where we remained for one day, awaiting an 
 
ESCAPES IN NICARAGUA. 49 
 
 opportunity to obtain a boat for Virgin Bay. Dur- 
 ing our stay we took a stroll through some fine 
 coffee and cocoa plantations, owned and worked by 
 natives. They seemed to be confident of a good crop 
 every year. 
 
 The next day we obtained a little boat, or rather 
 cheap passage on a small boat to San George^ 
 where we hired a native to carry a part of our 
 baggage, and proceeded on to Virgin Bay on foot. 
 
 VIRGIN BAY. 
 
 As we came in sight of Virgin Bay, it exhibited 
 more signs of civilization than an}^ place we had 
 seen in months. It was welUsettled by Americans, 
 the houses built in American style, with plank 
 floors. It was grandeur to us. As we entered the 
 St. Charles hotel we were astonished to hear our 
 heels resounding on the floor, and hearing so many 
 speaking English. The town is built near the lake, 
 with a long wharf built out into the lake, to meet 
 the supposed transit road leading from San Juan 
 del Sur through Virgin Bay, where it connects 
 with the lake boat crossing the lake at the St. 
 Charles, and there connecting with the river boats 
 navigating the San Juan river, and connecting with 
 the ocean steamers from San Francisco. 
 
 On the 17th, four hundred passengers jDassed 
 through from San Francisco en route for New York, 
 making things look lively for awhile. Hotels and 
 saloons did a good business, but as soon as the pas- 
 
50 ADVENTURES AND NARROW 
 
 sengers were aboard of the lake boat, the business 
 was '' dead as a doornail/' and everything restored 
 to quiet. After remaining in Virgin Bay for some 
 time, I went across to San Juan del Sur, when I 
 found myself in one of the dirtiest and most un- 
 healthy spots in the country. Duiing the time I 
 remained, the fever broke out, and of course I had 
 it with the rest. I had not escaped any of the evils 
 of the country so far, and expected to. have all that 
 was going. It was by mere accident I escaped the 
 cholera. I returned to Virgin Bay about the time 
 the passengers w^ere due again from San Francisco. 
 I awaited the arrival, and got on board the lake 
 boat with them for Grey town. Crossing the lake, 
 we arrived at the St. Charles, where w^e took a boat 
 and proceeded down the river. The scenery along 
 the river w^as beautiful; the tropic vegetation and 
 luxuriant floral display is scarcely equaled on the 
 continent. On arriving at Castillo our attention 
 Avas drawn to the old ruined fort, that presented a 
 grand scene. It was erected on a ver>^ high hill, 
 projecting from the water's edge. Walker's guards 
 had demolished it in some places — or rather demol- 
 ished its beauty — but guards were seen pacing its 
 walls. Opx^osite the fort is a fall or rapids in the 
 river, that defies navigation in the diy season. Here 
 we found about a mile of railroad cars, drawn by 
 mules, for the purj^ose of conve;\ing the freight 
 and baggage to the boats below the falls, the pas- 
 sengers being obliged to walk. 
 
 Down the river we were chaimed w4th the seen- 
 
ESCAPES IN NICAEAGUA. 51 
 
 ery; the songs of gorgeously feathered birds and 
 the perfumes of tropic blossoms loading every 
 breath of air. Several of the passengers amused 
 themselves with shooting at the alligators as we 
 passed them basking their rough backs in the sun. 
 We made good time down the river to Grey town, and 
 the sight of the ocean steamer, that lay at anchor 
 ready to exchange passengers, was a welcome sight 
 to all, but particularly to me. 
 
 GREYTOWN. 
 
 Greytown is inhabited mostly by Americans and 
 foreigners. Though not remaining long, and tak- 
 ing but few notes, I saw about all there was of in- 
 terest in the place. So long as this route from San 
 Francisco to New York was kept open, Greytown 
 flourished and became a port of some importance. 
 I accomplished my business at this town, and re- 
 turned with the returning steamer and the New 
 York passengers, intending to go with them to San 
 Francisco, and abandon my wild explorations in 
 Hicaragua. The company were not long in ex- 
 changing freight and passengers, and we were 
 steaming up the river, though at a much slower 
 rate of speed than when we came down. 
 
 On our return nothing occurred worthy of note 
 until we reached San Juan del Sur, where we 
 took the ocean steamer America, and in October, 
 on the 24th day, we sailed from the port of San 
 
52 ADVENTURES IN NICARAGUA. 
 
 Juan del Siir for San Francisco, having been ab- 
 sent just seventeen months in Central America. 
 
 Our ocean trip was a pleasant one, varied with 
 the usual routine of steamer life. We took pains 
 to note the distance accurately from San Juan del 
 Sur to San Francisco, which is 2,700 miles. No- 
 vember the sixth found us sailing into the harbor, 
 through the ** Golden Gate,'* thankful to set foot in 
 the '* city by the sea" once more. 
 
 /\ B R A f?F 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
\r 
 
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 'his is the date 
 
 book 
 
 which 
 was charged out. 
 
 this 
 
 iVOV 
 
 REOD LD 
 
 APR 9 '65 -6 PM 
 
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