J f^.-^'.X^'? Hilf ^Y^p*********** \WT S~\ SWEET SIXTEEN THE LOVERS AFLOAT 'THE COURSE OF TRUE I livid color which is imparted to the whole limb. 268 DISEASES PECULIAR TO WOMEN. action in the breast may supervene. Dose : Three globules, repeated at intervals of four hours, until a degree of improvement sets in, and then at intervals of six hours. Rhus. is also of considerable service when extreme fullness, tension and painfulness of the breasts, with excessive secretion of milk, attend the case. Dose : As directed for Belladonna. CHILD-BED FEVER PUERPERAL FEVER. The trouble is of so grave a nature that it is with reluctance that we approach the subject. Where it is at all possible, we would advise a skilled physician to be employed. As this work, however, will enter some home where no physician can be procured, it has been thought judicious to treat the disease at sufficient length to be avail- able in cases of emergency. This disease assumes various types and degrees, and has received various names. Usually the disease begins on the second, third or fourth day, although, in some cases, it even appears later, as late even as the eighth or ninth. It sometimes begins with a distinct chill, and, again, there may be only slight chilliness, imperfect and merely noticed. The pulse is very rapid, full and soft. In some cases, there is neither pain, distention nor tenderness of the abdomen ; while in others, the pain is very acute, the distention enormous, and the ten- derness exquisite. Perspiration and Thirst. Profuse sweating is a very common and distressing accompaniment of this disorder ; the sweating of puerperal fever does not diminish the amount of urine, nor abate the quickness of the pulse. An intolerable thirst prevails, and the patient drinks immense quantities of whatever fluid she may be allowed. Dark spots appear on the wrists or other parts of the body. At first, the lochia may be unaffected ; they may be even increased in quantity, but more commonly they are entirely suppressed. As the disease advances, usually about the third day, diarrhoea and vomiting may supervene. The patient becomes listless and languid, PART III. i CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF CHILDREN. CHAPTER XX. ABLUTION AND CLOTHING. Every Child Should be Its Mother's Care The Babe a " Well-spring of Pleasure " Directions for Bathing Prevention of Colds Skin Bruptions Free Use of Water Cleanliness and Health Treatment for Chafings Bad Effects of Soda in. the Laundry Proper Time for Bathing the Infant The Flannel Apron Clothing Material for the Belly-band Light Dressing Warmth a First Requisite Danger of Convulsions How Clothes Should be Fastened Keeping the Head Cool Clothing for Winter. care and management, and consequently the health and future well-doing of the child, principally devolve upon the mother ; " for it is the mother after all that has most to do with the mak- ing or marring of the man." Dr. Guthrie justly remarks that " Moses might have never been the man he was unless he had been nursed by his own mother. How many celebrated men have owed their greatness and their goodness, to a mother's training! " Napoleon owed much to his mother. " The fate of a child," said Napoleon, " is always the work of his mother;" and this extraordi- nary man took pleasure in repeating, that to his mother he owed his elevation. All history confirms this opinion. The character of the mother influences the children more than that of the father, because it is more exposed to their daily, hourly observation. We are not overstating the importance of the subject in hand when we say, that a child is the most valuable treasure in the world, that "he is the precious gift of God," that he is the source of a mother's 277 278 ABLUTION AND CLOTHING. greatest and purest enjoyment, that he is the strongest bond of affec- tion between her and her husband, and that " A babe in a house is a well-spring of pleasure, A messenger of peace and love." We have, in the writing of the following pages, had one object con- stantly in view namely, health 4 ' That salt of life, which does to all a relish give, Its standing pleasure, and intrinsic wealth, The body's virtue, and the soul's good fortune health." If the following pages insist on the importance of one of a mother's duties more than another it is this that the mother herself look well into everything appertaining to the management of her own child. Blessed is that mother among mothers of whom it can be said that " she hath done what she could " for her child for his welfare, for his happiness, for his health. For if a mother hath not " done what she could for her child" mentally, morally and physically woe betide the unfortunate little creature ; better had it been for him had he never been born. Temperature of the Water. It is not an uncommon plan to use cold water for the babe from the first, under the impression of its strengthening the child. This appears to be a cruel and barbarous practice, and is likely to have a contrary tendency. Moreover, it frequently produces either inflammation of the eyes, or stuffing of the nose, or inflammation of the lungs, or looseness of the bowels. Although we do not approve of cold water, we ought not to run into an opposite extreme, as hot water would weaken and enervate the babe, and thus would predispose him to disease. Lukewarm rain-water will be the best to wash him with. This, if it be summer, should have its temperature gradually lowered, until it be quite cold ; if it be winter, a dash of warm water ought still to be added, to take off the chill. (By thermometer = 90 to 92 degrees.) It will be necessary to use soap, white Castile soap being the best CHAPTER XXI. DIET FOR THE INFANT. Away with Gruel When the Tongue is Tied First Food for the Infant Both Breasts to be Drawn Alike Too Frequent Nursing Artificial Food A Simple Preparation Foods of Various Kinds Baked Flour Bread Crumbs Oatmeal Pulp of Rice Foods Containing Starch Arrow-root New Milk When to Give Farinaceous Food How Digestion is Aided Salt and Sugar Weak Mothers No Real Substitute for Mother's Milk Nursing and the Mother's Health Care of the Feeding-bottle Flatulence Time for Weaning Gin and Peppermint Diet Versus Physic. AN infant ought to be put to the breast soon after birth the interest, both of the mother and of the child, demands it. It will be advisable to wait three or four hours, that the mother may recover from her fatigue, and then the babe must be put to the breast. If this be done, he will generally take the nipple with avidity. It might be said, at so early a period, that there is no milk in the breast ; but such is not usually the case. There generally is a little from the very beginning, which acts on the baby's bowels like a dose of purgative medicine, and appears to be intended by nature to cleanse the system. But, provided there be no milk at first, the very act of sucking not only gives the child a notion of sucking, but, at the same time, causes a draught (as it is usually called) in the breast, and enables the milk to flow easily. Of course, if there be no milk in the breast the babe having been applied once or twice to determine the fact then you must wait for a few hours before applying him again to the nipple, that is to say, until the milk be secreted. An infant, who, for two or three days, is kept from the breast, and who is fed upon gruel, generally becomes feeble, and frequently, at the end of that time, will not take the nipple at all. Besides, there " s a thick cream which, if not drawn out by the child, may cause inflam- mation and gathering of the breast, and consequently great suffering 287 294 DIET FOR THE INFANT. cleanliness of the cooking utensils. The above directions require the strict supervision of the mother. Broths have been recommended, but, for our own part, we think that for a young infant they are objectionable ; they are apt to turn acid on the stomach, and to cause flatulence and sickness ; they, sometimes, disorder the bowels and induce griping and purging. How Food is to be Given. Whatever artificial food is used ought to be given by means of a bottle, not only as it is a more natural way than any other of feeding a baby, as it causes him to suck as though he were drawing it from the mother's breasts, but as the act of sucking causes the salivary glands to press out their contents, which materially assist digestion. Moreover, it seems to satisfy and comfort him more than it other- wise would do. The food ought to be of the consistence of good cream, and should be made fresh. It ought to be given milk-warm. Attention must be paid to the cleanliness of the vessel, and care should be taken that the milk be that of one cow, and that it be new and of good quality ; for, if not, it will turn acid and sour, and disorder the stomach, and will thus cause either flatulence or looseness of the bowels, or, perhaps, convulsions. The only way to be sure of having it from one cow is (if you have not a cow of your own) to have the milk from a respectable dairy, and to have it brought to your house in a can of your own. The better plan is to have two cans, and to have the milk fresh every night and morning. The cans, after each time of using, ought to be scalded out, and, once a week, the can should be filled with cold water, and the water should be allowed to remain in it until the can be again required. The Kind of Seasoning. Very little sugar should be used in the food, as much sugar weakens the digestion. A small pinch of table-salt ought to be added to what- ever food is given, as "the best savor is salt." Salt is most whole- CHAPTER XXII. TEETHING. Infants Sometimes Born with Teeth Proper Time for Teething to Commence Ivength of Time in Cutting Lancing the Gums Mode of Operation Infantil J Convulsions Gums Injured by Various Substances Rubber and Leather Rings Sucking the Thumb Diet of Fruit Ailments During Teething Pain- ful Dentition Mild Form Treatment Recommended The Tepid Bath Re laxed Bowels The " Tooth-cough " Diastrous Effects of Opiates L,audanuir, and Paregoric Swollen Gums Pain and Inflammation Skin Blotches- Second Teeth Parental Neglect. THE period at which dentition or teething commences is uncertain. It may, as a rule, be said that a babe begins to cut his teeth at seven months old. Some have cut teeth at three months ; in deed, there are instances on record of infants having been born with teeth. King Richard the Third is said to have been an example. Shakespeare notices it thus : "YORK. Marry, they say my uncle grew so fast, That he could gnaw a crust at two hours old. 'Twas full two years ere I could get a tooth. Grandam, this would have been a biting jest." When a babe is born with teeth, they generally drop out. On the other hand, teething, in some children, does not commence until the) are a year and a half or two years old, and, in rare cases, not until tbey are three years old. There are cases recorded of adults who have never cut any teeth. Dentition has been known to occur in old age. A case is recorded by M. Carre, in the Gazette Medicate de Paris, September 15, 1860, of an old lady, aged eighty-five, who cut several teeth after attaining that age. The first or temporary set consists of twenty. The first set of teeth are usually cut in pairs. Says that eminent authority, Sir Charles Locock : " I may say that nearly invariably the order is first, the lower front incissors [cutting teeth] , then the upper front, then the upper two lateral incisors, and that not uncommonly a double tooth is 301 TEETHING. 309 to the diet if it be absolutely necessary to give him artificial food while suckling and care must be taken riot to overload the stomach. A child is subject to a slight cough during dentition called by nurses " tooth-cough " which a parent would not consider of suffi- cient importance to consult a doctor about, but do not give any nar- cotic, any opiate. What the Cough Means. A cough is an effort of nature to bring up any secretion from the lining membrane of the lungs, or from the bronchial tubes, hence it ought not to be interfered with. We have known the administration of syrup of white poppies, or of paregoric, to stop the cough, and thereby to prevent the expulsion of the phlegm, and thus to produce either inflammation of the lungs or bronchitis. Moreover, both pare- goric and other narcotics are, for a young child, dangerous medicines (unless administered by a judicious doctor), and ought never to be given by a mother. Bear in mind that the development of teeth in their regular order, although a perfectly natural process, is often attended with much suffering. When dentition is slow, retarded and difficult, it not only becomes of itself a serious disorder, but it involves also a long train of morbid symptoms and actual diseases which may exhaust the patient's strength, and finally destroy its life. The primary difficulty in such cases is in the nutrition, and as we often see in older children a remarkable backwardness in the development of the osseous (bone) system in general, so we often find in earlier periods of infantile life a corresponding slowness in the development of the teeth. And both these forms of imperfect development, occurring, as they often do, successively in the same children, are to be attributed to some pro- found constitutional taint which affects the nutrition. Swollen and Painful Gums. In some few cases the teeth come through so readily as to scarcely disturb the infant ; but more frequently, indeed, the mouth becomes hot and the gums look tumid, tense and shining, while the exact CHAPTER XXIII. DISEASES OF CHILDREN. Inflammation of the Eyes Hiccough and its Treatment Snuffles, or Cold in the Head Remedies for Cold Colic and What to Do for It Rules for Diet In- digestion and Vomiting Flatulence Milk-crust, or Scabs Thrush, and How to Overcome It Costiveness Diarrhoea Cholera Infantum A Dangerous Ailment Full List of Remedies for Summer Complaint Alarming Symptoms Stupor and Convulsions Standard Treatment Asthma Result of Cold Importance of Prompt Relief Vaccination Transmission of Disease Vacci- nation Should be Repeated. XTEWBORN infants and other children are subject to purulent oph- _ >| thalmia, or inflammation of the eyes. This disorder is always more or less serious, for, unless speedily cured, the inflamma- tion may result in ulceration, and the contents of the eyeballs be dis- charged, causing permanent deformity as well as hopeless blindness. The first indication of the disease is, generally, the eyelids becoming glued together during sleep, with redness and swelling externally. The causes are : sudden exposure to the light of day, to cold, or the glare of a lamp or fires. Many cases of inflammation of the eyes occur in babes whose mothers are affected with leucorrhcea; therefore, we must conclude a discharge from the genitals of the mother is a very frequent cause of ophthalmia in newborn infants, or it is some- times epidemic, and no doubt many children who are what is com- monly called " born blind," owe their misfortune to the neglect of proper precaution, in many cases the external indications of this affec- tion being so slight as to escape observation. The eye is an organ so delicate, and the importance of proper, judicious treatment for any of its ailments is so great, that a skillful oculist should at all times be consulted. The treatment should be in part constitutional, removing all causes that impair the general health of the child. Indeed, this is an invariable rule in the effort to remedy any local ailment. The trouble can often be made to disappear whe? 312 DISEASES OF CHILDREN. 313 good general health is established. The following remedies, however, may, with safety, be used in cases of ophthalmia : Aconite should be administered as soon as we become aware of the existence of this evil ; a few doses will generally be found sufficient to subdue this affection in all mild cases. Dose : Two pills every four hours. Belladonna. The eyes look very red ; cannot bear the light ; open- ing the eyes only when in a dark place. This remedy is good to alternate with Aconite. Dose : As for Aconite. HICCOUGH. This affection, though in itself of slight importance, frequently causes a considerable degree of uneasiness to the young mother. It generally arises from exposure of the body, even in a warm room, to currents of air, even during the operation of dressing and undress- ing the newborn child. Wrapping the infant warm in bed, or better still, applying it to the breast, will generally lead to a cessation of the affection ; should it, however, continue, the administration of a small quantity of white "igar, as much as will cover the end of a teaspoon, dissolved in a tea- : ooonful of water, will frequently effectually remove the evil. Nux Vomica. Two pills placed in the mouth of the infant will r.rrest the trouble, if the other advice should fail. Allopathic Treatment. Hiccough is generally relieved by a sudden arrest of the attention as by a reproof or a sudden expression of great surprise. Hot cloths wrung out of warm or hot water may be continually applied, or a mustard and flaxseed poultice laid over the region of the diaphragm. The common internal remedies are cold water, snow, pounded ice 01 ice cream. Anodyne and antispasmodic drugs are useful in this as in other coughs. A combination of Chloral, Bromide of Potassium, with or without ail opiate, is generally effectual. Take of Hydrate of Chloral and 314 DISEASES OF CHILDREN. Bromide of PotassVim and Bicarbonate of Potash, one scruple, Paregoric, two drachms. Peppermint Water sufficient to make two ounces. Mix. Dose : A teaspoon, half full, to a dessertspoonful, every two or three hours. Obstinate cases will require professional advice. SNUFFLES, OR COLD IN THE HEAD. Snuffles, or cold in the head, is one of the earliest and most common affections of the young infant. It consists of an inflammation of the mucous lining of the nose. The first that is known of it is, that the infant's nose is stopped up so as to hinder its breathing, hindering it in the action of sucking, by not allowing the breath to pass through the nostrils, obliging the infant to release the nipple in order to breathe, causing it to become fretful and irritable. While this state continues, it has its influence against the infant's thriving, both by hindering it from taking a sufficient amount of nour- ishment, and by annoying the breathing of the child so as to disturb its sleep. When the nose is dry while administering a remedy, to remove the evil, relief may be obtained by oiling the nose on the out- side and by using a feather or camel' s-hair pencil on the inside. Fresh lard, goose grease, cream, or a little breast milk will often afford grateful relief. Treatment. Aconite. This remedy, if administered at first, when there are febrile indications, will often cut short an attack of snuffles. Dose : Two globules every two hours. Nux. The trouble is worse at night, particularly toward morning or in the morning. Through the night the nose is very dry. Dose: As for Aconite. Euphrasia. Profuse, fluent discharge and acrid discharge from the eyes ; the eyes are much involved. Dose : As for Aconite. Chamomilla. Where there is watery or mucus discharge ; the child is quieted by carrying it up and down the room. One cheek red the other pale. Dose : As for Aconite. Pulsatilla is indicated by thick, green or yellow bloody matter, like 324 DISEASES OF CHILDREN. regular stool. Take of tincture of Nux Vomica and Tincture of Belladonna each two drachms, Syrup of Orange Peel four drachms. Mix. Dose : One to twenty drops once a day, according to the age of the child. DIARRHOEA OF CHILDREN. v Infantile diarrhoea constitutes one of the most frequent and serious of all diseases that occur in infancy and childhood. Of itself alone diarrhoea does not often prove directly fatal, but its long continuance seriously weakens the patient, and endangers the health, and it constitutes, moreover, a very grave complication of other forms of disease. Causes of diarrhoea are various ; the introduction into the stomach of inappropriate indigestible food; the deranged condition of the mother's milk induced by mental emotions, improper diet, or other causes on the part of the mother ; fright and exposure of the infant to cold, and the improper use of laxatives, etc., may be enumerated as being the most frequent exciting causes of this disorder. It is well to notice closely as to the symptoms. A healthy infant at the breast, passes on an average from three to six motions in twenty- four hours ; but in some instances the evacuations are more frequent, yet without in any degree affecting the health of the child ; in such cases, then, there ought to be little or no interference, so long as the stools remain free from fetor, possessing merely the slightly acid smell, peculiar to unnatural indication. When, however, the stools become green and watery, or yellow and watery, brown and frothy, as if fermented, mixed with phlegm or mucus, or consisting entirely of mucus, emit an offensive odor, and are generally preceded or accompanied by signs of suffering, it becomes necessary to have recourse to remedial aid. CHOLERA INFANTUM SUMMER COMPLAINT. This is a special form of bowel complaint, which requires special notice. This disease very often proves fatal, even under the best of treatment, since it appears usually in the latter part of the summer, when the young infant's system is already somewhat exhausted by the 326 DISEASES OF CHILDREN. languid and dull, or hollow and glassy, and the child takes no notice of surrounding objects or persons ; the lips are dry and shrivelled. In many cases, the child lies in an imperfect doze, with half-closed eyes, and entirely insensible to external impressions. The abdomen frequently becomes distended and hard, or is sunken or flaccid. Stupor and Convulsions. Frequently, in fatal cases, the child falls into a complete state of stupor, and convulsions ensue. It not unfrequently happens, particularly in children predisposed to affection of the brain, that in an early stage of the disease the brain becomes involved, and the child dies with all the symptoms of inflammation of the brain. Favorable symptoms are an abatement of the fever, and the gradual restoration of an even temperature, with decreased frequency of the pulse ; cessation of vomiting and decrease in the number of evacua- tions, with a gradual return of the stool to a more natural condition and appearance ; natural and peaceful sleep, desire for food, and a gen- eral improvement in the appearance of the child, together with a return of playfulness. Homoeopathic Treatment. The subjoined medicines, however, are those most frequently called for in the treatment of the disease under consideration, and are approved as of the utmost efficacy when carefully selected for the individual case. Aconitum is very frequently indicated, and should be given, in cases in which there is febrile excitation, manifested by acceleration of the pulse, heat and dryness of the skin, and thirst. Under such circumstances it often happens that Aconitum, when promptly admin- istered, not only removes the febrile indication, but, as well, cuts short the entire disease, and very promptly aids in restoring the babe to health. Dose : Two globules, dry, on the tongue, every one or two hours, according to the severity of the symptoms, until manifest improve- CHAPTER XXIV. How TO PREVENT DISEASE. Unhealthy Boys and Girls The Overworked Brain Tendency to Scrofula Pre- ventive Measures Building Up the System Girls Who Stoop Curvature of the Spine Treatment for Spinal Affections Games of Sport for Young I/adies Consumption Blood-spitting Causes and Remedies Poor Diet Treatment for Sore Throat Evil Effects of Tobacco Bleeding from the Nose Fainting Costiveness Too Much Medicine Appeal to American Mothers Pimples on the Face Gum-boils How to Cure Corns How to Destroy Warts Deli- cate Young I/adies Bodily Improvement among American Girls. MART " children are not always the healthiest. A greater quantity of arterial blood is sent to the brain of those who are prematurely talented, and hence it becomes more than ordi- narily developed. Such advantages are not unmixed with danger ; this same arterial blood may excite and feed inflammation, and either convulsions, or water on the brain, or insanity, or, at last, idiocy may follow. How proud a mother is in having a precocious child. How little is she aware that precocity is frequently an indication of disease. It behooves a parent, if her son be precocious, to restrain him to send him to a quiet country place, free from the excitement of the town ; and when he is sent to school, to give directions to the master that he is not on any account to tax his intellect (for a master is apt, if he have a clever boy, to urge him forward) ; and to keep him from those institutions where a spirit of rivalry is maintained, and where the brain is thus kept in a state of constant excitement. Medals and prizes are well enough for those who have moderate abilities, but dangerous indeed to those who have brilliant ones. An over-worked precocious brain is apt to cause the death of the owner ; and if it does not do so, it in too many instances injures the brain irreparably, and the possessor of such an organ, from being one of the most intellectual of children, becomes one of the most common- place of men. Let us urge you, if you have a precocious child, to 331 834 HOW TO PREVENT DISEASE. fall now into the hand of the Lord ; for very great are his but let me not fall into the hand of man." Bible. Evils of Stooping. A girl ought never to be allowed to stoop ; stooping spoils the figure, weakens the chest, and interferes with the digestion. If she cannot help stooping, you may depend upon it that she is in bad health, and that a medical man ought to be consulted. As soon as her health is improved, calisthenic and gymnastic exercises should be resorted to. Horse exercise and swimming in such a case are very beneficial. The girl should live well, on good nourishing diet, and not be too closely confined either to the house or to her lessons. She ought, during the night, to lie on a horse-hair mattress, and during the day, for two or three hours, flat on her back on a reclining board. Stooping, if neglected, is very likely to lead to consumption. If a boy be round-shouldered and slouching in his gait, let him be drilled ; there is nothing more likely to benefit him than drilling. You never see a soldier round-shouldered nor slouchy in his gait. He walks every inch like a man. Look at the difference in appear- ance between a country bumpkin and a soldier. It is the drilling that makes the difference : " Oh, for a drill-sergeant to teach them to stand upright, and to turn out their toes, and to get rid of that slouching hulking gait, which gives them such a look of clumsiness and stupidity ! ' ' Curvature of the Spine. The causes of lateral curvature of the spine, and consequent bulg- ing out of the ribs, arise either from delicacy of constitution, from the want of proper exercise, from too much learning, or from too little play, or from not sufficient or proper nourishment for a rapidly-growing body. We are happy to say that such a case, by judicious treatment, can generally be cured namely, by gymnastic exercises, such as the hand-swing, the fly-pole, the patent parlor gymnasium, the chest- expander, the skipping rope ; the swimming-bath ; all sorts of outdoor games, such as tennis, archery, bicycling in moderation ; by plenty of HOW TO PREVENT DISEASE. 343 meal. The best times of the day for taking either of the above mix- tures will be eleven o'clock, four o'clock and seven o'clock. Standard Remedies for Costiveness. The best opening medicines are cold ablutions every morning of the whole body, attention to diet, variety of food, bran-bread, grapes, stewed prunes, French plums, figs, fruit both cooked and raw if it be ripe and sound, oatmeal porridge, lentil powder, vegetables of all kinds, especially spinach, exercise in the open air and early rising. If more attention were paid to these points, poor schoolboys and schoolgirls would not be compelled to swallow such nauseous and disgusting messes as they usually do to their aversion and injury. Should these plans not succeed (although in the majority of cases, with patience and preseverance, they will) we would advise an enema once or twice a week, either simply of warm water, or of one made of gruel, table-salt and olive-oil, in the proportion of two tablespoon- fuls of table-salt, two of oil and a pint of warm gruel, which a boy may administer to himself, or a girl to herself, by means of a proper enema apparatus (syringe). Use of Water. Hydropathy is oftentimes very serviceable in preventing and in curing costiveness ; and, as it will sometimes prevent the necessity of administering medicine, it is both a boon and a blessing. Hydro- pathy supplies us. with various remedies for constipation. From the simple glass of cold water, taken early in the morning, to the various douches and sea-baths, a long list of useful appliances might be made out, among which we may mention the " wet compresses " worn for three hours over the abdomen (bowels), with a gutta percha covering. We have here a word or two to say to a mother who is always physicking her family. It is an unnatural thing to be constantly dosing either a child or anyone else with medicine. One would suppose that some people were only sent into the world to be physicked. If more care were paid to the rules of health, very little PART IV. FEMALE BEAUTY AND ACCOM- PLISHMENTS. CHAPTER XXV. PERSONAL APPEARANCE. A Subject of Universal Interest Looking Only to Immediate Effect How to Assist Nature Fashionable Ignorance Nostrums and Quack Cosmetics Evening Dissipation Exposure of Health A Simple Toilet the Best Harmful Dress Barbarous Decorations Conditions on which Personal Beauty Depends Neglect of Mind and Body Cleanliness Temperance in All Things Turn- ing Night into Day Abuse of Digestion Sickly Paleness How Female Loveliness is Lost Delicate Women Painted Simpletons Derangement of the Pulse Hygiene of the Greeks. MUCH labor is frequently employed, and much expense incurred, to improve and preserve the personal appearance, and to endow it with new charms, or to increase those which it already possesses. Unfortunately, however, although much thought and ingenuity are often expended, or rather wasted, on the subject, the peculiar conditions, physiological, hygienic, and social, on which female beauty depends, are either only slightly regarded, or partially acted on, when known, and more frequently neglected altogether. With some persons, immediate effect, at whatever sacrifice, and irrespective of consequences, is deemed of more importance than either health or personal cleanliness, or appropriate modes of dressing ; and in few, indeed very few, instances is anything beyond the " mere out- side effect of the passing hour" for a moment regarded. Hence it is, that, in scarcely any other portion of the daily routine of life do persons 351 PERSONAL APPEARANCE. 353 the next soiree, the next ball, the next promenade or the next opera ; and, as observed by a recent eminent author, their vision beyond these events becomes entirely dimmed. But the errors in these matters arising from indolence, thoughtless- ness and indifference to consequences the desire to save time, trouble and expense are greater than those already mentioned, and are probably more numerous than all the others put together. Hence it is that every fashionable ball or party, every opera-night and every concert adds to the number of the hapless victims of consumption or some other fell disease, and tinges the pallid cheek with the hectic flush or the sallowness that marks their incipient stages. Improprieties of Dress and Toilet. With some persons perhaps, we might say with most persons the duties of the toilet are of a very simple character, being limited to mere acts of cleanliness, and the use of the ordinary hair and skin cosmetics. Others go further, but it is all in the same direction ; their thoughts not extending to those numerous and more important matters without which a pleasing personal appearance, much less beauty, cannot long exist. Among unpolished and ignorant people this is more especially the case. As civilization and refinement and education advance, this attention, or rather misapplication of the atten- tion, lessens. This is particularly the case where the art and science of medicine and physiology have made much progress. In our own country and elsewhere, during the last half-century, the members of the medical faculty have continually directed public attention to improprieties of dress and the toilet ; and happily with such success, that much of the grossness in these particulars that distinguished former periods has gradually died out and passed away. Many articles of dress, and practices which were once thought use- ful or beneficial, or at the most harmless, have thus been exposed, and their use either abandoned or rendered less injurious by the removal of their objectionable features. The present century is pro- 23 PERSONAL APPEARANCE. 359 frequent use of the bath, and their being better clothed than their less fortunate brethren, the consequences of their violations of the natural laws would fall on them even more heavily than they now do. Let us mark the effects of improper food, defective ventilation, and want of cleanliness. These evils exhibit themselves in the unhealthy features, the broken health, the frequent cases of consumption, fevers, and skin diseases, and other ailments affecting the health and personal appearance, so commonly met with. It is only the active nature of their occupations, and the pecuniary inability of most of such persons to indulge in excesses, either in eating or drinking, that prevent these things being still more common than they already are. The immediate and intimate relations of health to the personal appearance cannot be too often pointed out, and should be thoroughly understood and acted on in the every-day affairs of life. The True Basis of Personal Beauty. Health is soundness of body, with the due performance by its sev- eral parts of all their natural functions, both separately and in unity. This is "bodily" or " physical health." A like perfect exercise of the functions of the mind constitutes " mental health." The union of the two is necessary to the development of beauty, and to the existence of true corporeal and mental enjoyment. Unsoundness of the body, or the disorganization of any of its func- tions, generally produces a corresponding effect upon the mind, in some portion or other of its manifestations and uses; and when the mind is seriously diseased, the bodily health frequently, indeed gener- ally, degenerates. The exceptions chiefly include those rare and vast developments of the mind commonly called " genius," though even these are generally accompanied with a delicate state of health, and sometimes with dis- ease ; and those striking exhibitions of bodily health and vigor, where " reason seems to have given up half its dominion to instinct and muscular strength." In each case there is exaggeration of the one and defect of the other. Perfect health exists only when the functions 360 PERSONAL APPEARANCE. of both body and mind are properly exercised, and duly balanced to each other. Disease, either "physical" or "mental," is the reverse of health. Any unsoundness, any disarrangement, organic or functional, involves its presence. The existence of disease, or even of any defect of health approaching it, is soon developed in the features, and is, therefore, injurious to the personal appearance, and is incompatible with the existence, or, at all events, the permanency of personal beauty. On the promotion and preservation of the health chiefly depend the improvement of the personal appearance, and "the maturity and maintenance of personal beauty. The delicate nature of the formation and functions of the human body is such that propriety and regularity of dress, living, and the like, are of more importance than is generally supposed, or than some members of the medical profession are ready to admit. Do not abuse your own body. Why Personal Charms Decay. It is, however, a demonstrable fact, that, apart from the vicissitudes of climate and season, and mere accidental circumstances against which foresight is unable to guard, the neglect of these matters is alone sufficient to account for fully one-half of the maladies and suffer- ings which " flesh is heir to." The body must be properly nourished and its heat maintained by appropriate food ; it must be properly clothed to meet the vicissitudes of climate, situation, weather, and individual constitution ; it must be freely exposed to the influence of light, air, warmth, and the like, and it must be kept clean, and enjoy regularity and sufficiency of exercise, sleep, and all the habits necessary to mere animal as well as polished life, for the full exercise of its numerous delicate functions, and the possession of perfect health. Without these matters are attended to, the health will fail, and no efforts of dressing, no toilet, however complicated and laborious, no subtle cosmetics will be capable of preserving the personal charms from certain and rapid decay. CHAPTER XXVI. BATHING FOR HEALTH AND BEAUTY. Beauty a Thing to be Prized Personal Cleanliness Vast Influence of Soap and Water Choked Perspiration Secretions of Skin and Teeth Contagious Poisons Fruitful Sources of Ill-health Impoverished Blood The Tepid Bath Ablutions Among Jews and Mohammedans Dirt and Disease Com- mon Neglect of Bathing Bath-houses in Europe The Jolly Frenchman Sea-bathing Directions for Using the Warm Bath Right Temperatures of the Water Exercise and Beauty. LET us again refer to the value the importance the divine influ- ence of beauty in a world a universe where all is beautiful. A recent writer on the subject has asked : " What is the use of beauty ? Is it intended merely to amuse the fancy for a time, and then pall, fade, and be forgotten ? In a system where nothing else is lost, where all is fitness and coherence, and where each part, however minute, seems as necessary to the whole as a single link is to the con- tinuity of a chain, is this quality alone without definite meaning or permanent purpose?" And he answers the question by observing that " analogy is against the supposition, and. we must either set down beauty as an unmeaning superfluity in the scheme of the creation, or else assign it an importance commensurate with the space it occupies in our thoughts." Every rational man will do the latter. "Then let us not, like thoughtless fools, despise The things of earth which are the things of beauty. All beauty here hath but one aim and mission To guide our spirits to that heavenly portal, Which, to the earth-chained spirit, is a vision Of beauty all unchanging, all immortal." Cleanliness is a subject of such importance to our well-being that little need be said in its favor, were it not that many persons who loudly declaim about it are negligent of it themselves. That it is essential to the health, comfort, and personal appearance of the indi- vidual, is so generally admitted, that even those who do not practice 363 366 BATHING FOR HEALTH AND BEAUTY. liness which should be practiced by all, and to which reference cannot be too frequent or urgent. * The ill consequences of uncleanliness, and particularly of a dirty skin a skin loaded and obstructed with adhering refuse matter dis- carded by itself are numerous and serious. Such matter forms a favorable medium for the absorption, and the transmission to the internal portions of the body, of noxious effluvia, vapors and gases, miasmata r and the aerial germs of infectious and contagious diseases. How We Become Poisoned. It is said that the greater part of (contagious) poisons are con- veyed to us through the external surface of our bodies ; and it is fully proved that poison already communicated has been by cleanliness removed before it could actually produce any bad effects. We here allude, in particular, to frequent washing, bathing, rinsing the mouth, combing and brushing the hair, and often changing the linen, clothing, and bedding. Such are the immediate effects of neglected ablution of the skin, and the neglect of other acts of personal cleanliness ; the further con- sequences are of an equally serious character. The blood being deprived of one of its sources of oxygen, and of one of the outlets of its carbon and saline matter, becomes deteriorated, the functions of nutrition imperfect, and the temperature of the body lessened. The matters that should be thrown out of the system through the skin are retained, and have to be eliminated by other organs. The lungs, the kidneys, the liver, the bowels, are each, in their turn, overtasked to perform the functions of another organ. At length they suffer from exhaustion, the health is disturbed, and incipient disease follows. The predisposition exists, and only waits for an exciting cause to give it full development. The period of incubation may be short or long weeks, months, even years- according to the age and constitutional vigor of the person ; but the evil day comes at last, and skin-diseases, nervous affections, diarrhoea, liver-complaints, consumption, dropsy, visceral obesity or some other CHAPTER XXVII. BEAUTIFUL SKIN AND COMPLEXION. A Garment of Surpassing Loveliness Structure of the Skin Pores for Perspira tion Absorbent Vessels How to Beautify the Skin Effect of Heat and Cold Ablution Anointing Recipes for Skin Washes Effect of Sunlight Benefits of Friction Flesh-gloves Diseases of the Skin Black Spots and Marks Boils Blueness and Discolorations Dandruff Pimples Itch Scaly Eruptions Treatment for Skin Ailments Freckles Moles Paleness Roughness Redness Scurf and Scurvy Pits from Small-pox Wrinkles Abrasions Bruises Burns and Scalds Cuts and Incised Wounds Excoria- tionsFrost-bites Scars. EVERY person knows what the skin is, its external appearance and its general properties ; but there are many of our readers who may not be aware of its peculiar and wonderful construc- tion, its compound character and its manifold uses. It not merely acts as an organ of sense and a protection to the surface of the body, but it clothes it, as it were, in a garment of the most delicate texturr and of the most surpassing loveliness. In perfect health it is gifted with exquisite" sensibility, and while it possesses the softness of velvet and exhibits the delicate hues of the lily, the carnation and the rose, it is nevertheless gifted with extraor- dinary strength and power of resisting external injury, and is not only capable of repairing, but of actually renewing itself. Though unprotected with hair, wool or fur, or with feathers, or scales, as with the brute creation, the human skin is furnished with innumerable nerves, which endow it with extreme susceptibility to all the various vicissitudes of climate and of weather, and prompt the mind to pro- vide suitable materials, in the shape of clothing, to shield it under all the circumstances in which it can be placed. The horse, the dog, the lion, cannot change its hair or the bear its fur, even though it be transported to a climate the reverse of that in which it was born ; it must alike wear the robe of Nova Zembla undet 373 374 BEAUTIFUL SKIN AND COMPLEXION. the scorching sun of Africa, or that of the tropics on the frozen plains of Siberia, and it will dwindle from this change, and probably perish ; but man can suit his clothing to the latitude, and rove from clime to clime with comparative impunity. His intelligence enables him to shield his skin from all the " skyey influences " with proper raiment, and his taste leads him so to select and prepare this raiment as to serve both for the protection and adornment of his person. Three Layers or Membranes. The skin, though apparently a single membrane, is composed of three distinct layers or membranes, each of which has special duties to perform. The exterior of these, or that one which immediately meets the eye, is called the cuticle, epidermis or scarf-skin. It is of uneven thickness, in some parts being extremely thin and delicate, and in others, particularly those exposed to friction, thicker and harder ; in this respect being accommodated to the nature of the part it covers. It is an albuminous tissue, and in its general physical and chemical properties, for the most part, resembles the nails and the quills of birds, from which it differs chiefly in degree of induration. It is destitute of feeling and of absorbent power, and thus fulfils its duty as a protective covering of the body in a more effective manner than it otherwise would do. Throughout its whole surface it is thickly pervaded with minute pores, to permit the escape of the per- spiration and other exhalations from the body. Its reparation and renewal are carried on at its under surface, whilst its damaged, worn- out and useless portions are thrown off in the form of whitish dust or minute flakes or scales. Immediately under the cuticle, and resting on the cutis, is the mucous network. It is a thin layer of soft, pulpy matter, of a fibrous character and reticular form, and appears to be the seat of the color of the skin, with the hue of which it always coincides. It may be temporarily blanched by the action of weak solutions of chlorine, chloride of lime, and other bleachers. Beneath the mucous network, and forming the third, last in succession BEAUTIFUL SKIN AND COMPLEXION. 375 inwards, and principal tcgumentary covering of the body, is the derma or true skin. It is a highly sensitive, vascular, gelatinous texture, of a very complex structure. It is of a whitish color and fibrous, and appears to be made up of an irregular species of network. Closer examination shows it to be composed of condensed cellular tissue, and to be very thickly supplied with absorbent and excretory vessels, and with arteries, veins, and nerves. A Most Delicate, Perfect Structure. It is here that the minute capillaries of the arteries spread them- selves out, and, by means of the ducts of the sudorific glands or follicles, exhale the peculiar secretion which we call perspiration ; here the so-called roots of the hair terminate, and find nourishment ; and here all the other functions of the skin are performed. It is this por- tion of the tegumentary covering of the body that gives the relative thickness to the whole skin ; and it is the one which, when the scarf- skin and hair are removed, is converted into leather by the processes of tanning. Such is the general structure of the human skin, so complicated and yet so perfect, so delicate and yet so useful. As a protective natural covering of the body, in conjunction with the animal senses, instincts and appetites, and, above all, with an intelligent free-will, it surpasses that of any other animal. It is absolute perfection. It combines within itself the powers of an organ of sense, of excretion, secretion, respiration and nutrition. The integrity of its functions is not only highly conducive to health, but is absolutely essential to its perfect enjoyment, to both corporeal and mental vigor, and to beauty. Surely the preservation and promotion of this excellence, and the removal or alleviation of the effects of disease and accident that impair it, deserve our serious attention. In health, the management of the skin is extremely simple, and consists chiefly in habitual cleanliness and daily personal ablution, as noticed in the preceding chapter. To preserve the softness of its texture, and the delicacy of its hues, it is also necessary to protect it, CHAPTER XXVIII. THE HAIR THE GLORY OF WOMAN. AM Unrivalled Ornament Hair of the Orientals Premature Decay Effect of Mental Emotions Physical Structure Hair-bulbs and Tubes Chemical Con- stitution Biography of a Hair Necessity of General Health Ecst Manage- ment Use of Comb and Brush Curl-papers Crisping-tongs Friction Two Methods of Dressing Objections to Artificial Styles Cleansing the Scalp Natural Arrangement of the Hair Cutting and Clipping A Dirty Habit luxuriant Growth Curliness and Waviness Fixing the Hair in Position. THE hair is not only invaluable as a protective covering of the head, but it gives a finish and imparts unequalled grace to the features which it surrounds. Sculptors and painters have bestowed on its representation their highest skill and care, and its description and praises have been sung in the sweetest lays by the poets of all ages. Whether in flowing ringlets, chaste and simple bands, or graceful braids artistically disposed, it is equally charming, and clothes with fascination even the simplest forms of beauty : " O wondrous, wondrous, is her hair ! A braided wreath of golden brown, That drops on neck and temples bare. " If there be one point more than another in which the tastes of mankind appear to agree, it is that rich, luxuriant, flowing hair is not merely beautiful in itself, but an important nay, an essential auxiliary to the highest development of the personal charms. Among all the refined nations of antiquity, as in all time since, the care, arrangement, and decoration of the hair formed a prominent and generally the lead- ing portion of their toilet. The ancient Egyptians and Assyrians, and other Eastern nations, bestowed on it the most elaborate attention. The ancient Jews, like their modern descendants, were proverbial for the luxuriance and rich- ness of their hair, and the care which they devoted to it. Glossy, flowing, black hair is represented to have been the " glory " of the 393 394 THE HAIR. ancient Jewess, and in her person to have exhibited charms of the most imposing character ; whilst the chasteness of its arrangement was only equalled by its almost magic beauty. Nor was this luxuriance, and this attention to the hair, confined to the gentler sex ; for among the pagan Orientals the hair and the beard of the males were not less sedulously attended to. Among the males of Judah and Israel, long flowing ringlets appear to have been regarded as highly desirable and attractive. The reputed beauty and the prodigious length and weight of the hair of Absalom, the son of David, as recorded in the sacred text, would be sufficient to startle the most enthusiastic modern dandy that cultivates the crinal ornament of his person. Solomon the wise, another son of David, conceived the beauty of the hair sufficiently dignified to express figuratively the graces of the church. Hair of French Royalty. Long, luxuriant hair was as much esteemed by many of the ancient European nations as by the Asiatics, although their attentions to it were of a ruder and less elaborate character. This was particularly the case with the northern nations, and with some of those of western Europe. The cultivation and regard of the hair was a passion in Gaul, and cutting and cropping it were employed as punishments. The ancient royal family of France, as a particular mark of distinc- tion and privilege of the king and the princes of the blood, had to wear " long hair artfully dressed and curled." The clerical tonsure is said to be of apostolic institution. At a later date Pope Anicetus forbade the clergy to wear long hair. In modern times, the high estimation in which a beautiful head of hair is held, is probably as great as at any former period of the world's history. It is still regarded as an important ingredient in manly beauty, and as one of the very essentials of feminine loveliness and fascination. All persons are proud of it all covet it all admire it. Indeed, it may be truly said, that all persons, except the most indolent, vulgar, and degraded, are more or less sedulous in their endeavors, in CHAPTER XXIX. RESTORATION OF THE HAIR. Early Decay Cold Water and Friction Stimulating Applications Restoring the Health of the Scalp Baldness The Hair Affected by Old Age Other Causes Thick Hats Frequent, Close Cutting Spanish Flies or Cantharides Oils and Pomades Electricity Diet and Regular Habits Tonics Gray Hairs, and How to Treat Them Morbid Dryness of the Hair Use of Glycerine Matting and Felting Excessive Scurfiness Rosemary and Thyme Caution Against Quack Remedies How Superfluous Hairs are Destroyed Cleansing the Partings Borax and Ammonia. THE hair is subject to various deviations from the healthy standard, all of which, as already hinted, depend immediately on the state of the scalp from which it springs, and indirectly on various causes, of which the principal have been enumerated. Among them the following may claim a special notice : The gradual impoverishment and decay of the hair shown by its becoming finer and thinner, with greater or less loss of its brightness and color, and a larger quantity than usual being removed on each application of the comb and brush whether premature or the result of advancing life, is most likely to be arrested, or retarded, by atten- tion to the general health and habits, and careful avoidance of any article of head-dress or other matter which is known to be prejudicial to the hair. The special treatment may consist in daily, or as frequently as possible, washing the head in cold water, gentle continued friction with the hair-brush, and the use of stimulating applications of a similar kind to those already noticed, but of rather greater strength, so as to produce a slight but sensible excitation of the skin of the scalp. Habitually disordered stomach, bowels, or nerves, and par- ticularly biliousness and dyspepsia, frequently affect the hair in this way, and should be met by medical treatment, of which antacids, and tonics, as quinine ^nd iron, should generally form a part. 411 412 RESTORATION OF THE HAIR. Baldness, or destitution or loss of the hair, more especially of that of the crown and fore-part of the head, whether actual or impending, may next be noticed. Gray hair and baldness depending on old age are natural consequences of man's infirmity, and must be regarded as evidence of failing vigor, rather than in the light of a disease. Pre- mature loss of hair may be produced by various causes, some of which have been already noticed. It is common after severe fevers, and after erysipelas and other serious inflammatory affections of the scalp ; and it is frequently caused by external pressure, friction, or violence, want of the necessary exposure of the head to the air, and by such other local actions and conditions which, when long continued, interrupt the normal functions of the skin. Debility and Loss of Hair. Persons with a consumptive, scorbutic, scrofulous, or syphilitic taint, or of a general bad habit of body, are apt to lose their hair early. In these cases the loss probably arises from debility or paralysis of the vessels of the skin, and the consequent insufficient action and nutrition of the hair-bulbs. When it occurs in persons of or under the middle age, and apparently enjoying good health, it may be often traced to the pernicious practice of constantly wearing a hard non-ventilating hat, or to disordered stomach or liver, habitual smoking or hartf drinking, irregular habits, late hours, or the like. Excessive anxiety or grief, and intense study and thoughtfulness, also tend to promote the early decay and loss of the hair. The natural baldness of the aged, and frequently the premature baldness of earlier years, particularly in the studious and grief-worn, arises from the reduced energy of the circulation in the vessels of the scalp, and its consequent gradual attenuation, until it becomes too thin to afford sufficient space for the performance of the functions of the hair-bulbs and their associated organs, and too scantily supplied with blood for their due nutrition and support. In such cases it will be found that, owing to this attenuation, the scalp covers a larger portion of the skull than it previously did when vigorous ; and that CHAPTER XXX. BEAUTY OF FACE AND FEATURES. Harmony and Right Proportion The Forehead Skin Eruptions The Eyes Most Expressive Feature How to Treat the Eyes Belladonna Dimness of Age Remedies for Discoloration Effects of Dust and Dirt Eyelashes and Eyebrows The Nose How to Mould and Beautify the Nose Human Mouth and Lips Chapped Lips The Teeth What Injures the Teeth Tooth-pow- ders and Use of the Brush Use of Charcoal The Ears Wearing Ear-rings Chin and Throat Neck of Beauty. THE beauty of the face depends chiefly on all its several features being pleasingly moulded and in "perfect keeping" with each other. Without this proportion between the individual features, the most delicate complexion, the brightest eyes, the softest cheeks, the finely-moulded mouth, and the ruddiest lips, may fail to charm, and, by contrast, may even disfigure where they should adorn. It is this excellence of proportion that constitutes one of the chief elements of personal beauty. The possession of an elevated and prominent forehead is correctly regarded as one of the distinguishing features of the human race. Its erectness and extent are characteristic of reason and high intellectual powers, and its development is exactly proportionate to the intelligence of the species and of the individual. A lofty, ample forehead is the attribute of the enlightened white race ; a receding forehead, that of the Negro. Beyond a certain limit reason disappears, and idiocy commences. The absence of a true forehead is one of the characteristics of the brute creation. Its excel- lence is an important ingredient in personal beauty, and is absolutely necessary to the possession of a superior mind. The toilet of the forehead is limited chiefly to the arrangement of the hair. The possessor of a beautiful forehead is seldom disposed to conceal any portion of it, or to modify its apparent form by such means. The practice of wearing the hair over portions of the fore- 420 BEAUTY OF FACE AND FEATURES. 421 head naturally bare is prejudicial to the health of the head, and to the vigor of the mind. The contrary practice of throwing or fixing the hair in unnatural positions, backward from the forehead, is equally objectionable, for reasons already noticed. The defects of an ill-formed forehead may, in general, be rendered less apparent, and often wholly obscured, by an appropriate arrangement of the hair about it a matter in which the taste of the individual, and the example of others, will be the best guides. Beauty and Expression of the Eyes. . The eyes, of all the features, stand pre-eminent for their beauty and ever-varying powers of expression, and for being the organs of the most exalted, delicate and useful of the senses. It is they alone that " reveal the external forms of beauty to the mind, and enable it to perceive them, even at a distance, with the lightning speed of light It is they alone that clothe the whole creation with the magic charms of color, and fix on every object the identity of figure." It is the eyes alone, or chiefly, that reveal the emotions of the mind to others, and that clothe the features with the language of the soul. Melting with pity, or glowing with hope, or redolent with love, benevolence, desire or emulation, they impart to the countenance those vital fasci- nations which are the peculiar attributes of man. The beauty and expression of the human eye have furnished themes for both poets and prose- writers in all ages. Sculptors and painters have bestowed their highest skill and most laborious efforts on its delineation, and anatomists and physiologists have investigated and described its wonderful structure and functions with a degree of zeal and eloquence perhaps greater than that devoted to any other organ. Physiognomists tell us that the peculiar form, size and expression of the eyes, afford reliable indications of the disposition and mental character of the individual ; whilst the phrenologist assumes, among other things connected with these organs and the parts adjacent to them, that prominent eyes indicate the presence of the organ of lan- guage, and that their possessor can always express his thoughts in words. 422 BEAUTY OF FACE AND FEATURES. A beautiful eye is one that is full, clear and brilliant, appropriate in color to the complexion, and, in form, to the features, and of which the connected parts the eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, which, with MODEL OF FEMALE BEAUTY. it, in a general view of the subject, collectively form the external eye are also beautiful, and in keeping with it. The management of the eyes, in connection with the toilet, con- sists chiefly in daily bathing or washing them with pure water, and BEAUTY OF FACE AND FEATURES. 425 them with a pair of sharp scissors. The practice is most effective when commenced in early childhood. The least possible portion of their extremities should be removed ; and the operation, to be neatly done, must be performed by a second person. To Beautify the Eyebrows. The eyebrows, unlike the eyelashes, should never be cut, or in any way subjected to the action of the scissors or razor. Their beauty consists in their being smooth, glossy, and well-defined, in having little breadth vertically, and in extending in a graceful, arched line over the eyes. Cutting them ultimately destroys these qualities, by causing them to grow coarse, stiff, and irregular. After washing the face, the fingers or napkin should be passed over them to smooth them and to set the hairs in their places. This is all that is required. Some ladies, however, when making their toilet, pass the finger, very slightly moistened with oil or pomade, over the eyebrows, to darken them and give them gloss ; but the practice is not to be recommended. An occasional gray or prominent bristly hair in the eyebrows may be plucked out with the tweezers. It should never be cut off, as is the common practice. The nose, though so necessary to the general make-up, seems to labor under the misfortune of being generally turned into ridicule whenever it forms the subject on the tapis. How far it deserves the slights and fun so frequently " poked " at it, we must leave the happy possessors of noses to form their own opinions. There have been, however, many excellent and philosophical writers who have deemed the human nose worthy of their serious consideration, and even of eulogy. Sir Joshua Reynolds, the great painter, regards a well-formed nose as essential to personal beauty. He tells us, that " the line that forms the arch of the nose is beautiful when it is straight;" and he further observes, " this, then, is the central form which is oftener met with than either the concave, convex, or any other irregular form which can be produced." Sir Charles Bell declares, among other matters, 428 BEAUTY OF FACE AND FEATURES. Hairs in the nose, when troublesome, may be removed with the tweezers. It should, however, be recollected that they are not idly placed there by nature ; one of their purposes being to act as a filter to the air we breathe. Persons who are much exposed to a dusty atmosphere, had, therefore, better not remove them. Beautiful Mouth and Lips. The beauty of the human mouth and lips, the delicacy of their formation and tints, their power of expression, which is only inferior to that of the eyes, and their elevated position as the media, with the palate, tongue, and teeth, by which we communicate our thoughts to others in an audible form, need scarcely be dilated on here. The poet tells us that "The lips of woman out of roses take The tints with which they ever stain themselves. They are the beautiful and lofty shelves Where rests the sweetness which the young hours make, And which the earnest boy, whom we call Love, Will often sip in sorrow or in play. Health when it comes doth ruddiness approve, But his strong foe soon flutters it away I Disease and health for a warm pair of lips, Like York and Lancaster, wage active strife ; One on his banner front the White rose keeps, And one the Red ; and thus with woman's life, Her lips are made a battle-field for those Who struggle for the color of a rose." A beautiful mouth is one that is moderately small, and has a well- defined and graceful outline ; and beautiful lips are such as are grace- fully moulded, neither thick nor thin, nor compressed nor lax, and that are endowed with expression, and tinted with the hues of health. The lips are very liable to suffer when exposed to cold and drying winds. The most common effects of such exposure are chaps or small fissures in them, and a species of erysipelatous eruption con- sisting of small clusters of minute vesicles, which soon become moist from the discharge of the watery humor which they contain. PART V. POLITENESS; OR, \\TOMAN IN ; SOCIETY. ; CHAPTER XXXI. TASTEFUL AND BECOMING DRESS. Every I^ady Should Pay Attention to Dress Fitness Subordinate to the Person Suited to Different Seasons Graceful Curves Hints on Colors Variety in Costume Dressing the Hair The Parasol Bonnets " Nut-brown Maids" Use of Veils Dress for the Neck Sore Throats Sudden Changes of Covering Wearing Ornaments Vulgarity of Too Much Jewelry. T TOMEN are sometimes charged with devoting too much atten- \^ tion to matters of dress. There is, perhaps, some foundation for the accusation, for these things should not certainly be made the principal business of their lives ; but we would by no means counsel them to treat dress as a trifling or unimportant matter. The grand cause of regret is, not that they devote themselves is zeal- ously to it, but that their studies and labors in that direction are not guided by a better knowledge and more artistic tastes. With all the time, attention, and labor bestowed upon the subject, comparatively few women, especially in this country, dress well, either in an esthetic or a hygienic point of view ; and what is intended to heighten their charms, too often obscures, and, in the end, destroys them. A woman who has herself the reputation of dressing well, and who has had abundant opportunities of observing toilets of different nations, says : " The great majority of my sex understand the art of dress no further than that ' fine feathers make fine birds ; ' hence, they dress more or less in bad taste." 434 TASTEFUL DRESS. 435 The fact is, dress is not studied as an art, and in the light of the fundamental principles of taste, as it should be, but is subjected to the arbitrary and senseless rules of fashion. Fashion is an arch tyrant whom we would gladly overthrow, but she is securely enthroned beyond the reach of our blows. A direct attack would be useless. Our only hope is in gradually undermining her power by the diffusion of knowledge and the cultivation of popular tastes. To contribute to such an extent as our very limited space will permit, to these ends, we offer the following hints : Rules for Dress. Dress has primarily two functions to clothe and to ornament ; but use and beauty, in this as in other cases, so far from requiring any sacrifice for combination, are found, each in the highest degree, where both are most fully obtained the fittest or most comfortable dress being that which is most graceful or becoming. Fitness is the primary demand, and the dress that appears uncomfortable is un- tasteful. " Dress is always to be considered as secondary to the person." This is a fundamental maxim in the art of costume, but is often lost sight of, and dress made obtrusive at the expense of the individuality of the wearer. A man's vest or cravat must not seem too important a part of him ; and a woman should not be wholly lost in her skirts. If you are not better and more beautiful than your clothes, you are, indeed, a man or a woman of straw. Mrs. E. Oakes Smith very happily says : " The greatest compli- ment that can be paid to a woman is to forget her dress, or rather not to see it as proving it to be so characteristic that we are not incom- moded by observation, and are thus left to unalloyed companionship. We see, as it were, face to face, and not through whalebone and starch. The rose in her hair is a part of her womanhood, and the robe, in hue and shape, is so a part of her mold that we do not see it, but her. All is harmony, and she is the genius to which everything else has become subordinate.' ' CHAPTER XXXII. DEPORTMENT AND MANNERS. Importance of Good Behavior Beauty Marred by Lack of Grace Carriage of the Body Reveals Character Absence of Affectation Self-possession A Graceful Walk The Soldier's Drill Avoiding Offensive Habits Disorderly Costume Coarse Eating and Drinking Disagreeable Noises L,ove to Others Promot- ing Universal Happiness Selfishness Right of Privacy Casual Acquaint- ances Haughtiness and Pride Anger Rudeness Cheerful Demeanor Drones and Workers Empty Ornaments Keeping Engagements Diffusing Good Cheer. yxEPORTMENT is the manner of carrying one's self; carriage, 1 ) manner, or behavior. Good looks are very desirable ; but far more depends upon behavior. The neatness of the person, upon which we have so strongly insisted, is a part of behavior ; so is dress, which is a mode of expression ; and which gives us methods of enhancing and displaying beauties, as well as of concealing defects. But a handsome and well-dressed person may be awkward and con- strained in manner ; stiff or slouching in gait ; angular and extrava- gant in gesture ; sullen, haughty, insolent, cold, rude ; or shy and sheepish ; or craving, fawning, and impertinently familiar. There are a hundred graces and excellencies of manner in the position of the body, the attitudes, movements, gestures, poses of the head, carriage of the arms, placing of the feet, and all those nameless properties and charms, which are in some the unconscious and spontaneous expression of their natures, and, in others, are more or less acquired by the faculty of imitation, and careful training and culture. It needs no argument to prove that beauty was not intended alone nor chiefly to give happiness to its possessors ; and that, consequently, society has pre-eminent rights in regard to it. The possession of beauty, then, brings with it a heavy responsibility. You have no right to abuse, or mar, or spoil it. You have no right to lose it, by neglect of health, or any habit which tends to the destruction of 445 DEPORTMENT AND MANNERS. 449 When we are trying to reform our lives and make ourselves the best we can be, we may begin with the external deportment. The carriage of the body, and habits of dexterity, grace, and ele- gance are of great importance. Children, it is said, are always grace- ful they are simple, unconscious, unrestrained, unaffected ; and the attitudes and movements of a child ought to be as pretty as those of a kitten or a bird. But we fall into bad habits ; stoop until we grow round-shouldered ; get into awkward, lounging ways ; carry our hands uneasily as if they did not belong to us, and make ourselves generally disagreeable. Straight Figure and Full Chest. A little care, a little resolute training, the observation and imitation of ease and grace in others, will do much to remedy these besetting sins. If a boy or girl will every day stand with the back against a wall, and brace up in physical uprightness, it will soon cure a droop- ing spine. If they will resolutely let the arms hang quietly at the side, they will conquer the bashful tendency to fidget with the fingers. If a girl will daily open her chest, and breathe full breaths for some minutes, she will improve her health and figure. Every school-master and school-mistress ought to be somewhat of a drill-sergeant, and attend to the personal appearance and habits, carriage and manners, of the pupils. This is the specialty of the dancing-master and gymnast, no doubt ; but as every school cannot have its special teacher of gymnastics and dancing, all our teachers should be capable of giving the rudiments at least of refined carriage and manners. In the absence of direct teaching, much is done by unconscious or conscious imitation only we should know what models we ought to admire. The worst habits of more exalted personages have found multitudes of imitators. Every one who, by position or talents, grace or beauty, makes an impression upon others, is a teacher of manners, How little do people think of their responsibilities. To walk easily the body must be erect, but not stiff; the arms must swing, not too far ; the chest expanded for full breathing ; the 29 454 DEPORTMENT AND MANNERS. we should increase our distance. We need not be shy or bashful, however pretty and graceful a certain amount of these qualities may be, but in kindnesss and in justice, as well as from self-respect, and the desire to stand well with others, we should carefully avoid intru- siveness. Rules of Salutation. It is for the elder person to first salute, or welcome the younger ; for the person in a higher social position to recognize or address one in a lower ; for a lady to be the first to salute, speak or hold out her hand to a gentleman. When two strangers meet, if there is any obvious difference in age, rank or position, it should be regarded. A boy should not enter into conversation with a man, nor a gentleman with a lady, beyond some slight civility, without due encouragement. When persons meet on equal terms, in a railway car, at the sea- side, or wherever accident may throw them together, although there should be no intrusion, there may be, and ought to be, on the part ot every one, a frank, kindly, neighborly readiness to help each other by word and deed. Very pleasant acquaintances are made, and life-long friendships arc sometimes the result of pleasant, friendly, and genial manners among fellow-travellers. The habitual reserve of nlost people is senseless and cruel. All our conduct to our fellow-men should show our respect for them, our regard for their rights, our desire for their happiness. The first element of good manners is unselfishness. The moment a lady thinks too much of herself, her own rights, her own happiness, she begins to be rude to others. The more entirely she devotes herself to securing the comfort and happiness of all around her, the better will be her manners, and good manners are " twice blessed." As the principle of all good conduct in society is the love of the neighbor, and an active philanthropy, so the element of all evil is egotism, sel- fishness, or the desire of one's own good and happiness, without regard to the rights and welfare of others. Thus, manners must be based on morale, and minor morals and major are really the same. CHAPTER XXXIII. THE SOCIAL QUEEN. Qualifications for Good Society Value of Birth and Breeding Honor to Ladies Mistress of the House Introductions Salutations Rudeness to Others Polite Attentions The Sexes Should Go Together Variety of Ages Perfect Kquality The Industrious Woman Agreeable Companions Taste and Re- finement Woman's Mission is to Adorn Rules of Etiquette Simplicity in Behavior Little Observances Receptions Making Calls Use of Cards Taking Leave of the Host Punctuality "Doing in Rome as Romans Do." OCIETY is a word of large and various meaning. We talk of being in society the interests of society a good position in society fashionable society general society. It is properly the friendly meeting of people together to enjoy conversation and amusement with each other. To enjoy society, mutual protection, help, and to be amused with each other, men gather in villages and towns. Meeting often, they find the necessity of making themselves agreeable to each other. They refrain from offensive or injurious conduct, and they find frequent occasions for mutual civilities and reciprocal good offices. To live pleasantly with each other, men must abandon, or at least conceal, selfishness, injustice, evil tempers, dishonesty, falsehood, and every mean and annoying disposition, and become, or at least appear to be, kind, friendly, disinterested, obliging, cheerful, honest, and honorable. Contact rounds off the rough edges of character, and gives polish to the manners. Politeness, civility, and urbanity mean the manners of people who are refined. In a large sense, every person is considered a member of society ; but we speak of a solitary person as one who goes into no society meaning one who neither visits nor is visited. A disreputable person is not admitted into society. A morose person shuns society. A person of loose habits and associations mingles in low society. Where a hereditary aristocracy rules, a man's social position de- 458 THE SOCIAL QUEEN. 459 pends upon his ancestors. Of such men it has sometimes been said that the best part of them is under ground; but no one can deny the advantages of birth and breeding. Wealth gives the means and con- ditions of the highest culture. We have breeds of men as distinctly marked as our breeds of dogs and horses, and men are born with noble, heroic, and beautiful qualities as they are with unfortunate and base ones. We speak rightly of born liars and born thieves. There is, there- fore, an aristocracy of birth, and to be well born is a great good fortune. But this kind of aristocracy is not always that of rank, title or wealth. The child of healthy, honest, educated and refined parents is well born and a true aristocrat. Honor Paid to the True Lady. High society is composed of people of rank or wealth, who are able to live in a certain style of luxury and splendor ; who can give elegant dinners and balls, and assemble around them people of taste and fashion. Good society is composed of good, friendly, intelligent, tasteful people, who can benefit, interest, and amuse each other. Everywhere in society ladies have precedence and honor. They are to have the first seats and the best seats. No gentleman can be seated while a lady stands. No gentleman can help himself to anything until ladies are helped. It is a principle of society that women are to be everywhere deferred to, protected, esteemed, and honored. More deference is shown to women, as women, in America than in any country in the world, Over all social festivities the lady of the house presides. She receives calls, gives invitations, welcomes the guests, sits at the head of the table, and is the social queen. The husband devotes himself to the ladies, and generally to the comfort of the guests. To enter a society to which one is a stranger, some introduction is required. Going to a strange district, one carries letters of introduc- tion. A man presents you to his friend, and vouches for your social position and good conduct. He introduces you to others. The 464 THE SOCIAL QUEEN. serves her reputation, no doubt, but what becomes of her character ? And, in the absence of other interests, there comes to many young women the feverish desire for marriage and a settlement in life a thing which should never rest in her thoughts. It spoils the charm of any woman to be always thinking of a possible husband. Making Matches and Hunting Husbands. Match-making mammas are bad enough husband-hunting girls are intolerable. They repel more than they attract. A woman is never so charming as in utter unconsciousness of charm never so attractive as when she has no thought of attracting. In society, all possibilities of future relations should be kept out of sight, and every one treated according to his merits. Men and women in society do not meet as husbands and wives, or lovers only as members of society, in unrestrained freedom to make themselves agreeable to each other. An evident flirtation with any one is a rudeness to all the rest of the company. Special attentions are in bad taste, and sure to .offend. And when a lady feels that she has made the impression she most wished to make on a man she desired to attract and charm, because she felt his worth, though her heart may bound with happiness, she must no more show it than she can show the antipathies and disgusts excited by others. A true-hearted woman, with a fair amount of culture, a person not disagreeable, with some taste and observation of life, and a warm benevolence, and desire to please, can scarcely fail to make herself an agreeable and welcome guest in every circle. But a false, uncultured one, with no taste or care for pleasing, critical and censorious, jealous and malicious, is one of the worst samples of the feminine part of humanity. A lady of taste, refinement, and with so much of wealth and fashion as to give her a certain position in society, may become the centre of a circle, a social pivot, an educator, and in many ways a benefactor. Her furniture, the order of her apartments, her pictures and statuary, CHAPTER XXXIV. THE ART OF CONVERSING WELL. Value of Good Talk Conversation of Animals All Can Have Something to Say The Good Listener Guiding the Conversation Regard to Rights and Opinions of Others Making Others Talk Topics that are of Mutual Interest Wit and Humor Anecdotes Talk at Table Sense and Knowledge Prosy People Hobbies Slang Egotism and Boasting Pet Phrases I/ong-winded Talkers Impolite Questions Giving Attention Avoiding Discussions Pay- ing Compliments Moral Character. " /^OOD TALK," says the author of Realmah, " is ever one of \J the choicest things in the world, and wins all people who come within its sphere." Our social life is chiefly conversa- tion a turning together the interchange of thought and feeling. It is probable that all animals which associate with each other have language and conversation some method of communicating informa- tion and expressing feeling. Ants and bees evidently talk with each other. When a prize is at hand, or danger threatens, the whole swarm is quickly told of it. They act in concert. They carry on complicated operations quite impossible without some power of con- versation. The hen clucking to her brood calls them to the food she has discovered, gathers them under her wings, or gives warning of danger when she sees a hawk hovering in the sky. In a morning of spring, when the groves are full of melody, it must be that the melody has meaning, and that every phrase is understood, at least by birds of the same species. The lowing and bleating herds must also talk to each other. Dogs talk together, and learn to understand us much better than we do them. The elephant has a very human comprehension of the orders of his keeper ; and elephants who live in societies hold converse with each other. " Steed threatens steed in high and boastful neighings." The conversation of animals is natural or instinctive. If men ever had such a natural language, it has been lost. Instead of it we have 473 474 THE ART OF CONVERSING WELL. hundreds of dialects made up of artificial, conventional, articulate sounds. What we have of instinctive language consists in gestures, grimaces, tones, modulations, inflexions, emphasis. Whatever lan- guage men speak, we know by sight and hearing whether they are pleased or vexed whether they hate or love. Our conversation is, therefore, partly natural or instinctive in tones, gestures, and expressions of the countenance, laughter, tears, and all the picturesqueness and melody of speech ; and partly artificial and conventional in the use of words, or articulate sounds, whose meaning has been agreed upon. The beauty of all conversation consists in the choice admixture of these two elements of language. We like to see those with whom we converse. The glances of the eye, the flushings of the cheek, the smiles or frowns, and all expressions of feeling on the mobile face, the motions of the head, the slight shrugs of the shoulders tell as much as, often far more than, the spoken words. Good Talkers and Readers. Then how much more expressive is speech than writing. The written word has one meaning the spoken word may have a dozen. We vary it with every mode of utterance. Written language, how- ever carefully taken down, may give but the faintest idea of the elo- quence, or even the meaning of a speaker. Thus no reporter can do justice to some orators, who have produced the strongest impression upon multitudes of hearers ; people delight us with the warmth, grace and vivacity of their conversation, whose words, if accurately written down, would seem tame and insipid. The life that goes with the speech is wanting. In reading, words have what we are able to put into them. Good readers are those who can express the sense and sentiment of a writer as he would wish to express them in speech. As we all talk more or less ; as conversation is the life, the nervous circulation of the social body, we should try to talk well. To do this we must have intelligence, knowledge, facts of interest, things and thoughts, ideas and sentiments, which others may wish to hear ; and we must be able to convey our ideas in a clear and pleasant manner. CHAPTER XXXV. MISCELLANEOUS RULES OF ETIQUETTE. Rights of the Sidewalk Meeting on the Street Washington's Politeness The Veil Street Recognition Behavior in Church Punctuality Reverent De- meanor The Tardy The Talkative and Restless Expressing Approval How to Treat "Company" Gallantry Politeness at Home The Hoiden The Prude Indoor Recreations Undue Familiarity Courtesy to Strangers Formal Calls Social Visits and Entertainments Simpering and Frivolity. YOUNG people often seem unconscious of the fact that their behavior on the street attracts the attention of older people, and impresses them with favorable or unfavorable ideas of their character. Propriety should govern all street behavior. Polite people never do anything on the street to attract attention ; they should neither talk in a loud, boisterous manner, nor laugh uproariously. Conversation that is so noisy as to attract the attention of the passing crowd is either the result of ignorance or of a petty effort to secure a little vulgar notoriety. It is not courteous for young persons of either or of both sexes to have long conferences on the street, as they may obstruct the side- walk, and at the same time excite both critical and unpleasant remarks. Every person is entitled to his share of the sidewalk, and this right should always be respected. It is only the rude, low-bred woman and the blustering bully that assert their vulgarity by refusing to give the half of the pavement. As a gentleman or lady can nevei afford to come in collision with such people, it would be better they should even leave the sidewalks than be jostled. To assert our real or fancied superiority by depriving others of their rights is rude and vulgar. When persons pass each other. on the pavement, they should observe the same rule that drivers do on the street, in order to avoid the inconvenience and danger of a collision. Each should keep to the right. When a gentleman and lady walk in company, he should 492 RULES OF ETIQUETTE. 493 be at the lady's left, in order to prevent those passing from running against her. There is no necessity for the gentleman to change his position at every corner, in order that he may be on the side next the street. She will be protected better if always at the gentleman's right Persons walking in company should always keep step together. When a gentleman and lady cross the street in company, and the crossing is narrow and muddy, requiring them to go singly, delicacy requires that he should precede her, for the same reason that he should be the first to go upstairs and the last to come down. Persons should not be so engrossed in conversation as to pass their friends upon the street without notice, if it only be a slight inclination of the head and a pleasant smile. Serious offense may be unwittingly given to those whom we should have recognized, but seemed to forget. Such apparent neglect is very trying to the self-love of sensitive people, and may be mistaken for intentional rudeness. Anecdote of Washington. Captain Stephen Trowbridge, once the oldest male inhabitant of Milford, N. H., told the following incident of Washington's visit to that village in 1790: While the latter was walking about the town, attended by a number of his officers, a colored soldier, who had fought under him and lost a limb in his service, made his way up to the general and saluted him. Washington turned to this colored soldier, shook hands with him, and gave him a present of a silver dollar. One of the attendants objected to the civilities thus shown by the President of the United States to such an humble person ; but Washington rebuked him sharply, asking if he should permit this colored man to excel him in politeness. When a lady appears on the street witK a veil over her face, it may sometimes be a sign that she does not wish to be recognized, and an acquaintance may pass her as a stranger, without either giving or taking offense. If the lady, on approaching, shall remove her veil, it indicates that she wishes to be seen and known. Young people should always be prompt to acknowledge the polite- Alphabetical Irjdex of Subjects. Ablution, Best Method of .... 378 Ablutions in Labor 183 Abdomen, Increased Size of . . .110 Accomplishments, Artificial ... 35 Accomplishments, Female .... 351 Acidity, Treatment for 259 Advice to the Unmarried 26 Affections, Trifling with 33 Affection, Filial 499 Afterbirth, Battledore 177 Afterbirth, The 150 Afterbirths, Twin 173 Air, Necessity of Pure 238 American Mothers, Appeal to . . 344 Amusements 500 Animation, To Restore Suspended 176 Animal Kingdom, Lesson from . . 47 Appearance, Personal 351 Appetite, Morbid in Pregnancy. . 112 Approbation, Showing 497 Asthma in Children 330 Artificial Food for Infants .... 289 Awkward Persons 440 B Baths, Cold and Hot . . . . . . .371 Baldness 399 Baths and Injections for Whites . 246 Bathing, Best Time for 282 Baldness of Age 416 Bandage After Labor 179 Bathing for Health and Beauty . . 363 Beauty, Female 351 Beautifier, Nature's Greatest . . .349 Beauty and Bodily Vigor 389 Beauty, Decay of 360 Beauty Impaired by Disease . . . 381 Beauty of Face and Features . . . 420 Beauty of Woman 52 Beauty, True Basis of 359 Bladder, Attention to in Labor . .132 Blood, How Purified 382 Bleeding, How to Stop 392 Body, Exhalations from 120 Bones and Ligaments 68 Bonnets and Hats 442 Breast, Ailments of 197 Breast, Applications for 198 Breast, Darting Pains in 107 Breasts, Inflammation of 254 Breast-pumps 224 Breast, Gathered 222 Breast Nourishment, Substitutes for 290 Breast, Two Forms of Gathered . 225 Breast, Permanent Injuries of. . 226 Breasts, Remedy for Full . . . 215 Breeding, A Mark of Bad .... 496 Brown Bread, Value of 228 Bruises, How to Treat 390 Burns, How to Treat . . 390 Cards, Visiting 465 "Change of Life," Medicine for . 251 Child, Weaning of 212 Children, Diet for . 317 Children, Diseases of 312 Child-bed Fever 268 Children, Neglected by Parents . 25 Children, Dependent on Parents . 31 Children, Precocious 38 Children, Feeble 83 Children, Limiting the Number of 104 505 506 ALPHABETICAL INDEX OF SUBJECTS. Childbirth, Mother's Joy in . . .171 Character, How Formed 95 14 Change of Life " 90 Chloroform in Labor . . . . . . .171 Chest, A Full 449 Cholera Infantum and Summer Complaint 324 Church, Behavoir in 494 Clothing and Ablution 277 Clothing, Danger of Changing . . 443 Clothing, Warm 239 Complexion, How Perfected . . .373 Cold in the Head ..-*.... 314 Coffee, Effects of 229 Constipation of Pregnancy .... 260 Cold, To Prevent Taking 279 Conversation, Art of 473 Convulsions in Teething 303 Corns, Removal of 346 Coquettes and Flatterers 28 Consent of Parents 32 Cosmetics 352 Consumption 336 Consumption, Last Stages of ... 337 Conversation, Guiding the . . . .475 Constipation of Infants 322 Constitution, How Broken Down . 53 Courtesies in Private and Public . 62 Courtship 59 Conception 95 Conception, How Prevented . . . 103 Conception, Laws of 99 Costiveness in Pregnancy .... 168 Costiveness Treatment for ... . 169 Coition, Rules for Performing . . 102 Complexion, Affected by Sunlight 376 Common Sense 205 Cough in Teething 309 Colic, Children's 315 Costiveness, Remedies for .... 343 Cramps in Labor 164 "Crooked Stick" . 26 Crying of Newborn Children . . 315 Curious Facts . . 85 Customs, Social 466 Curling-tongs 402 Customs, False 22 D Dandruff, To Remove 383 Dancing-masters 448 Depilatories 418 Deportment 445 Diet and Regimen for Women . . 270 Diet for the Infant 287 Diarrhoea of Children ...... 324 Diseases Peculiar to Women . . . 232 Diseases of Children 312 Disease Fatal to Beauty 381 Disease, Sin of Transmitting ... 46 Disease, How to Prevent 331 Disease, Sources of 121 Diet, Poor and Insufficient . . .338 Diet During Pregnancy 122 Diet, Variety of for the Mother . . 204 Disposition, A Sunny 455 Disinfectants, Use of 118 Doctors, Mischief-making .... 206 Dress, Absurdities of 436 Dress and Display 64 Dress, Rules for . . . . . . . . . 435 Dress, Follies of ........ 42 Dress, Improprieties of 353 Dress, Governed by Health . . .114 Dress, Tasteful 434 Dress, Stripes of 437 Dress, Suited to the Complexion . 438 Drinks, Adulterated 357 Dyspepsia 208 Ears, The 430 Education at Home 24 Eggs in Animals 129 Embryo, Fifteen Days Old . . . .142 Embryo, Twenty-one Days Old . 143 Employments, Useful 463 Enjoyments, Domestic 27 ALPHABETICAL INDEX OF SUBJECTS. 507 PAGE Errors to be Avoided 30 Etiquette, Rules of 492 Etiquette to be Studied 466 Excitement in Pregnancy .... 113 Exhaustion, Treatment for Female 266 Exercise, Importance of 193 Eyebrows, How to Beautify . . . 424 Eyes, Beauty of 421 Eyes, How Injured 423 Eyes, What to Do for Them . . 422 Face Pimples ........ 345 Face and Features 420 Face, Protection for the .". . . .441 Faces, Sallow and Scrawny . . . 358 Fainting ..'.'* 342 Falling Womb, Treatment for . . 250 Fallopian Tubes 78 Fashion, Slaves of ......... 439 Fatigue, Avoiding 450 Female Forms, Laced and Unlaced 43 File Used for Corns 347 Fits in Children . . 326 Flatulence in Children 319 Flatterers 28 Flesh-brushes .......... 380 Flesh-gloves . . ... ... . .380 Flesh, Loss of in Pregnancy . . . Ill Flooding, Alarming 254 Flooding, Treatment for 256 Foetus, Development of 140 Foetus, Misplaced ..... . . .272 Food, Adulterated 357 Food, How Given to Infants . . . 294 Food, Highly Seasoned 124 Freckles, How to Remove .... 385 French and Americans Contrasted 369 Friction, Good for the System . . 379 Fruit, Effect Upon a Child .... 306 Generation, Organs of 66 Generation, Wonders of 133 Genital Organs, Female 71 Gestation, Period of 151 Gestation, Time Required for . . 149 Germs, Production of 135 Germ, The Life . 101 Girls, True Accomplishments of . 23 Girls, Exercise and Food for . . . 350 Gluttony, Sin of . . . . i' . '. -. .451 Golden Rule .......... 457 Gossips and Croakers 170 Graafian Vesicles 79 Graafian Vesicle, Diagram of . . . 80 Green Sickness , ' . . .234 Gum-boils 346 Gums, Hard Substances Injure . . 304 Gums, Lancing the 302 Gums, Swollen 309 Gymnastics 448 H Hair, Management of 400 Hair, Pomade for 402 Hair-brushes 401 Hair, Good Applications for ... 408 Hair Straight or Curly .397 Hair, "Standing on End" . . .395 Hair, Artificial Styles of 403 Hair and Curling-tongs 402 Hair, Skill in Cutting 406 Hair of French Royalty 394 Hair, Gray .399 Hair Injured by Dressing .... 404 Hair, Treated with Electricity . . 415 Hair, Restoration of 411 Hair, Affected by Age 398 Hairs, to Remove Superfluous . . 418 Hair, Rosemary Water for .... 417 Hair, Ammonia for the 417 Hair, Loss of 412 Hair, Ornamental Dressing of . . 440 Hats and Bonnets . . * 442 Happiness and Love 57 Head, Keeping it Cool 285 Health, A Test of , 100 508 ALPHABETICAL INDEX OF SUBJECTS. Health, Bracing Up the 237 Health, Essentials of 356 Health Promoted by Bathing . . .364 Heartburn in Pregnancy 112 Heartburn, Treatment for .... 259 Heart, Service of 58 Heart Weakness 233 Head, A Dust-trap 407 Heredity, Ignorance of 47 Hiccough 313 Home Education 24 How to Prevent Disease 331 Husband, Anxious to Get .... 27 Hymen, The 72 I Idleness 456 Infant, Clothing for 283 Infant, Wakefulness of 315 Infant, Diet for 287 Infants, Tongue-tied 288 Indigestion of Children 318 Inflammation, How Produced . . 224 Introduction, Letters of 469 Introductions, When Not Needed 460 Instruments, Use of in Labor . . 165 Labor in Childbirth 160 Labor, Clothing After 178 Labor, Afterpains of 167 Labor, Regular Pains of 161 Labor, Sickness in 162 Labor Without a Doctor 173 Labor, Symptoms of 161 Labor, Three Stages of 167 Labor, Usual Length of Time . . 166 Lactation 194 Ladies, Honors Paid to 459 Lemonade as a Beverage 384 Life and Happiness 36 Light, Effects of 377 Like Begets Like <*7 Lips, Remedy for Chapped PAGE Little Things, Importance of ... 467 Love and Parentage 49 Love and Marriage 18 Love Lasts a Lifetime ..... 50 Love, Not to be Stimulated ... 29 Lovers, Young 60 Lying-in Room, The 180 M Mamma, Milk-ducts in 199 Mamma, Section of 202 Manners, Good 445 Marriage and Female Beauty . . 52 Marriages, Causes of Unhappy . . 19 Marriage, Natural 18 Marriage, Preparation for .... 23 Marriage, Responsibility of ... 45 Marriage Qualifications for ... 17 Marital Kindness, Example of . . 56 Marrying, Best Age for 82 Match-making Mothers 464 Meanness 358 Medicine, Constant Doses of ... 230 Medicines Lose their Effect . . . 344 Melancholy 208 Menstrual Discharge 86 Menstruation, Regularity of ... 89 Menstruation 81 Menstruation, Profuse 241 Menstruation, Causes of Profuse . 241 Menses, Suppression of 236 Menses, Treatment for Suppres- sion 236 Mental Depression , . 205 Mental Organization 37 Milk, Secretion of 264 Milk-fever 200 Milk, Sudden Diminution of ... 216 Milk, Loss of 221 Milk, Mother's the Best 204 Milk-crust 320 Milk, How to Prepare 297 Mind and Body 19 i Miscarriage, Causes of 187 ALPHABETICAL INDEX OF SUBJECTS. 509 Miscarriage, Greatest Danger of . 190 Miscarriage, Symptoms of .... 189 Miscarriage, Treatment for . . . 191 Misery in Married Life 34 Mohammed's Paradise 17 Moles, How Removed 386 Mother, Employment for the . . 185 Mothers, Delicate 295 N Navel-strings Neck of Beauty Neglect, Blighting Effects of . Nervous Affections Newly Married, Truths for . Nipple, Bitter Applications for Nipples, Cracked and Fissured Nipple, Dark Circle Around . Nipples, Small and Drawn in . Nose, The .... , . . , . Nose-bleeding ........ Nose, How Changed in Form Nostrums Nurses, Good and Bad .... Nurses, Interference by ... Nursing, A Duty of Mothers . Nursing, A Healthy Process . Nursing, Effects of Nursing Mother, Food for . . Nursing, Too Much Nursing, Wrong Position in . . 173 .431 . 63 . 91 . 55 . 214 . 221 . 107 . 219 , 425 .341 . 425 .352 . 184 . 200 . 195 . 196 . 87 .203 . 202 .223 Occupation, Recommended . . . 209 Organs, Male and Female .... 96 Ornaments, Wearing of 444 Ovaries, of the Female 130 Ovaries, What for 134 Ovisacs 79 Ovum, Diagram of 144 Ovum Passing into the Womb . . 131 Ovum, In Fallopian Tube .... 132 Ovum of Five Weeks 145 Ovum, Entering the Womb Cavity 142 PAGE Ovum of a Rabbit 136 Ovum, Ripe 133 Ovum of Eight Weeks 147 Ovum of Five Months 148 Ovum, Fourteen Days Old .... 141 Ovum of Seven Weeks . .... .145 Ovum, The Human 128 Pain, Benefits of 119 Palpitation of Heart 233 Parasol, Use of 441 Parlor, Etiquette of the 468 Parturition 160 Pelvis, The 65 Pelvis, Deformed 69 Pelvis, Male and Female 68 "Periods" During Suckling . . . 211 Pimples and Blotches 345 Poisons, Contagious 366 Politeness 445 Politeness of the French 453 Pomade for the Hair 402 Powder, The Best for Infants . . .281 Pregnancy, Bathing in 115 Pregnancy, Best Clothing in ... 113 Pregnancy, Activity During . . . 117 Pregnancy 106 Pregnancy, Indolence and Weak- ness in 116 Pregnancy, Remedies for Ail- ments of 126 Pregnancy External to the Womb 271 Pregnancy, Extra- uterine .... 273 Pregnancy, Health Rules for . . . 115 Pregnancy, Time Table 152 Profuse Menstruation, Remedies for 343 Pulse, an Index of Health . . . . 361 Puberty 82 Puberty, Remarkable Changes at 133 Pulse, How Affected 362 Punctuality 471 Purification by Water 367 510 ALPHABETICAL INDEX OF SUBJECTS. Q PAGE Quaker, Story of 56 Qualifications for Marriage .... 17 Quarrels in Married Life 27 Queen, Social 458 Quickening, Causes and Sensa- tions of 109 Quickening, Period of 108 Readers, Poor 474 Receptions 470 Refreshment After Labor .... 179 Refreshments at Receptions . . . 470 Relatives, Evils of Marrying ... 46 Rest, Necessity of 122 Rice for the Baby 292 S Salutation, Rules of 454 Scab in Children 320 Scalds, How to Treat 390 Scalp, Friction for the 414 Scalp, Washing of the 405 Scrofula 332 Seasoning for Infants' Food . . . 294 Seeds in Vegetables ,.129 Self-discipline 21 Seminal Granules 139 Sex, Can It Be Determined? ... 158 Sexes, Proportion of ' 159 Sexes Should Not be Separated . . 461 Shoulders, Broad 39 Skin, A Delicate Structure .... 375 Skin Diseases, How to Prevent . . 281 Skin, Three Layers of 374 Skin, Treatment of 365 Sleep, Best Apartment for .... 125 Smallpox Pits 388 Snuffles 314 Soap and Water 370 Social Distinctions 462 Social Queen, The 458 Society . . . . ! ; 452 PAGE Sore Throat 339 Spermatozoa 97 Spermatic Fluid and the Ovaries . 98 Spine, Curvature of 334 Spine, Treatment of Diseased . . .335 Stillbirths 174 Stomach, Making an Idol of . . . 41 Stomach Overloaded in Pregnancy 123 Stooping, Evils of 334 Sucking the Thumb 305 Suckling, Stated Times for . . . 201 Sunlight and the Complexion . . 376 Swelling of Lower Limbs .... 262 Talkers, Good 474 Teeth, A Natural Growth .... 310 Teeth, Care of the 428 Teeth, Effective Cleaning of ... 429 Teeth, Second Set 311 Teething 301 Teething, Remedies for Painful . 308 Teething, Painful 307 Tea, Effects of 229 Temper, An Amiable 207 Temperaments 41 Testes, Anatomy of 137 Testis, Body of 138 Thrush in Infants . 321 Thorax, Natural Form of .... 40 Time for Bathing 282 Tobacco, Bad Effects of 340 Toothache During Pregnancy . . 261 Towel, The Rough 239 Truths for the Newly Married . . 55 Twins, Cases of 150 Twins, Position of in the Womb . 175 U Unmarried, Advice to 26 Urinary Difficulties During Preg- nancy - . 263 Uterus, The 74 u- o O o E H i cd . UJ 1) 4- OJ S o bjo c *cd CD w cd (U CO 5 U z D U *d C cd C s a o o c o a O cd c c rfiS S^il J '^ v |2 11 o O organs, divinely ordained for ; Woman, together with the and furnishes information on o both the married and the to women. * l> M 5 % v filajf HcJ*lJi ^ 2 l5 3 s *ic Zl o s v j*>js c - % -3 u -a O = S = * .2 P LISHMENTS night almost be considered a prized above rubies," and full Hair and How to Dress It. SOCIETY Conversing Well ; The Rules a> a? to^ - *- ed "~" "*"* ^ ^. ci ^^ ^^ ^ a D j= 2 O O ^ D O C ^g u u u a; 0) "85 a a *S S Oio = Ol ^ 0) ^ 04 CM E-a 09- OJ "w "tj T3 > CC CO c 03 D JZ 4-1 O X rt i) u S T. o rt U "En 7 puberty and the Growth of the Girl into the he process of bearing children, hich all mothers and daughters desire to ask, but little understood, which are all important t 1 treatment is prescribed for all diseases peculiai -CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF of the subjects treated in separate chapters : Ab s Ailments ; Diseases of Children, including a fu ight in the line of that education which aims to r as they are bright and capable in mind. It is >ns and old exploded ideas. It tells how to exerc fe bright and sunny. It is the newest and best w FEMALE BEAUTY AND ACCOMP nal appearance and endow it with new charms i i Complexion are praised as something " to be -ing these, en to that unrivalled ornament of woman, the without the important information here furnished. POLITENESS; OR, WOMAN IN Dress ; Deportment and Manners ; The Art of C the Best Society, are all plainly stated. CONDITIONS ;ed in one large volume of over 500 pages, a vings from Life. This valuble book will be del ne Cloth, Marbled Edges, -occo. Gilt Edges, : treats in a concise, uction; the period ol of Generation and t ; answers questions w t variety of subjects ried. Special medica . v .- c x.y ; SiHiM < S ^ 3 S ^ ^ a ||||.M 8i-lJj| CJ -^ a c w u o ~ w S 'I 1 ^ *<_, CO * g -g ^ > 'S 'bOj r- flU o GJ flj rt rt 1 _. fl) w JX fr*-3S ti ^ CO cj rt 8 8.| PART V. isteful and Becoming uette and Customs of g 2 Uu CX txO ^5 s c rrt ^^ o f T 1 J ^ "x "5 - >; 8 LU IJL -3'^ c c o o ^D_ ^ -O "C (UH-- C C e!g> 4 ' !* 1 1 i" 8 1 H c H bfl ^ G ^ u, H.? ^ CQCQ M M l T3 *S H o c-S Q ^ I i s CD $ ? & i Uj s Co c^ ie Si GO i 1 CO TY? mwg*&- w$i, 1 OF A/omai}