«! m . "v^i^^^R- nt^ AltVf> \hxxc reh'gious sanctuaries. The present Album of City Churches may induce many a person to undertake a pilgrimage to some of these venerable shrines — a pilgrimage full of historic and artistic interest. The grand Cathedral of St. Paul is seen and known of all men : but here will also be found a gala.xy of daughter Churches. Here arc St. Bartholomew the Great, a magnificent fragment, with its exquisite Norman choir, solemn, massive, for all time ; the Temple Church, with its circular nave in memory of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, with its lancet windows and its Crusaders' effigies ; St. Marj'-le-Bow, with its Norman crypt, its grand steeple, its intimate association with episcopal history, for it is the Church in which the bishops are 'confirmed;' St. Stephen, Walbrook, some say Wren's masterpiece, with its interior of singular dignity, arched over by its elegant cupola ; St. Sepulchre, commanding in situation, with its lofty tower, its beautiful groined porch, and its famous organ ; All Hallows Barking, notable for the richness of its wood - carving and its many brasses ; St. Lawrence Jewrj', very stately, with its spacious area, well suited to be the Church in which the Lord I\Iayor on his election day attends in state ; St. Andrew, Leadenhall Street (still called Undcrshaft, though the maypole ' higher than the Church steeple ' has long since been destroyed), the burial-place of John Stow, the historian; .St. Andrew, Holborn, famous for its tablets ; St. Katherine Cree (or Christchurch, so called from its nearness to the priory of that name), with its Katherine-wheel tracery in the west window, and its memories of Laud, by whom the Church was consecrated; St. Helen, Bishopsgate, exceedingly full of interest, very picturesque in its quaint irregularity of plan, rich in altar-tombs and monuments, the burial-place of Sir Thomas Gresham, the ' royal merchant,' Sir John Crosby, of Crosby Hall, Sir Julius Cn^sar, Privy Councillor to James L, and P'rancis Bancroft, founder of certain almshouses which bear his name ; St. (liles, Cripplcgate, a typical town Church of the sixteenth centur>', at whose altar Oliver Cromwell was married, the burial-place of John Ko.x, the historian, John Speed, the topographer, and John Milton, the immortal poet ; Christ Church, Newgate Street, hard by Christ's Hospital; St. Olave, Hart Street, full of curious old-world interest, dedicated to a sainted king of Norway, burial-place of Pepys, the quaint gossij) ; St. Dunstan-in-the-East, with its remarkable spire carried on four arched ribs springing from the angles of the tower, reminding the spectator of the similar but Gothic spire of St. Nicholas, Newcastle ; St. Michael, Cornhill, with its noble Gothic tower, very bold and lofty, which some have compared with the famous tower of Magdalen College, O.xford, its interior all ablaze with gold and colour; four Churches dedicated to St. Mary — St. Mary Aklermary (with its fine tower and its Gothic interior, supposed to be a copy of the original Church), St. Mary-le-Bow (with its famous bells), St. Mary the Virgin, Aldcrmanbury (the Church of Edmund Calamy and of White Kennett, Bishop of Peter- borough), St. Mary Woolnoth (a model of a Roman atrium, the work of Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren) ; two Churches dedicated to St. Botolph, one at Bishop.sgate (of the date 1725-2S, rebuilt in 1790), one at Aldgate, erected by George Dance, the architect of the Mansion House ; and, if last, certainly not least, St. Bride, P'lect Street, with its graceful spire. The Editor begs to thank the Clergy and other gentlemen who have kintlly contributed information for the Album. G'4>99:»^5 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL (EXTERIOR). I^glAITLANU, in his History of London, says that the first Cathedral in London 'was 1™SJI built in the Prctorian Camp of the Romans, and was destroyed by Diocletian. This Cathedral was rebuilt under Constantine, and ayain destroyed by the Saxons in their times of Paganism, after which it was restored by Ethclbcrt.' Ralph dc Diceto, the learned Dean of St. Paul's and the great historian, records that in 604 A.D. 'Ethelbert, the King, built the Church of St. Paul in London,' and he adds that the sainted Bishop Erkenwald 'bestowed great cost on the fabric thereof.' That this is history and not legend is proved in a manner eminently practical and convincing by the fact that the Dean and Chapter still hold, as thcj- have held in unbroken continuity ever since the days of Ethelbert, the Manor of Tillingham, which was given to them by that monarch of his royal bounty. A continuous possession of the same property for more than twelve centuries and a half is a fact worth chronicling. Fire has always been the dire enemy of the Cathedral. It was burnt down in 961, says the Saxon Chrenide ; it was consumed by flames in 1087, saj-s the Chronicle of St. Paul's ; in 11 36, in 1445, in 1561, and again in the memorable year 16C6 fire wrought its wicked will on the fair structure. What the 'Dreadful Fire' had spared, that, with great pains and labour, with gunpowder and battering ram. Sir Christopher Wren removed. The first stone of the existing Cathedral was laid on June 21, 1675; the highest stone of the lantern on the cupola was laid in 1710; but the choir was opened for divine service on December 2, 1697, on the day of public thanksgiving for the Treaty of Ryswick, when peace was concluded between England, France, Spain, Holland, and Germany. The great cupola of St. Paul's, says an able writer, ' in its expression of expanse with elevation, has no equal. That of the Pantheon, at Rome, gives expanse merely, as it is not higher than it is broad. That of St. Peter's is in height more than twice and one-third its width, and we are, therefore, rather struck with its altitude than its horizontal capacity. That of St. Paul's is something less in height than twice its width, and bearing also a much larger proportion to the rest of the building than in St. Peter's, it has much greater apparent size. The effect produced by Wren's cupola seems to indicate that its proportions are the best for producing, at the same moment, a sense of amplitude and loftiness combined.' Some scanty relics of the old Cathedral have been recently discovered. Foundations of the original Chapter House, and of the cloister which surrounded it, may be seen in the garden at the south-west of the Church ; whilst at the opposite angle, the north-east, an octagonal pavement marks the site of Paul's Cross, the famous outdoor pulpit around which the citizens of London were wont to assemble to listen to the greatest preachers of the day. Perhaps the finest view of the Cathedral is to be obtained from Bankside, on the south of the Thames ; a very fine view of the south-western tower is to be had from Cannon Street ; whilst the dome is to be seen to very great advantage from Cheapside, near the entrance to St. Paul's Churchyard. The dimensions of the Cathedral, as given in Longman's History of the Three Cathedrals dedicated to St. Paul in London, are as follow : — The extreme length, including the porch, 500 feet ; the extreme breadth across the transepts, but within the doors of the porticoes, 250 feet; the height from the street on the south side to the top of the cross is 365 feet. The corresponding dimensions of St. Peter's at Rome are 630, 440, and 437 feet. 4 ST. PAULS CATHEDRAL. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL (INTERIOR). inOSE who desire to obtain the most striking view of the interior of St. Paul's Cathedral should enter, if possible, by the great western door. To the left is seen the Mornin^j Pra>xr Chapel, with its stained-glass window commemorating Dean Mansel, and its mosaic decorations. On the right is the Consistory Court, commonly called the Wellington Chapel, with its magnificent monument to the Iron Uuke. Advancing slowly up the nave, on the left is seen the simpler but very touching memorial to General Gordon — an altar-tomb with recumbent effigy ; and on the right the figure of Bishop Middleton, first ]5ishop of Calcutta, represented in the act of confirmation. The magnificent area of the dome now begins to open out, the entrance to the choir with its richly carved organ cases, and its stalls for the Dean and Canons ; the long line of stalls on either side for the Prebendaries and Minor Canons, broken in the middle by the seats for the Lord Mayor on the north, and the Bishop of London on the south, and ending on the south side with the towering throne of the 15ishop. Nothing can be more beautiful of its kind than the carved woodwork of the choir, a triumph of Grinling Gibbons' skill. The iron gates, too, at the entrances of the north and south choir aisles, and other ironwork at the eastern ends of these aisles, can hardly be surpassed. They possess the special interest of being Sussex iron. There are now no iron foundries in that count)'. The \icw eastward is closed b/ the sumptuous rercdos. If the visitor arrives at one of the greater festivals he may be fortunate enough to see the very magnificent altar-cloth, one of the finest specimens of modern embroidery. But the interior is seen to the greatest advantage when some great preacher is occupying the marble pulpit under the dome. The vast area is crowded with attentive hearers. Thousands can sec and hear the preacher; and, when at the conclusion of the sermon, these thousands rise and join with heart and voice in some familiar hymn, such as the Easter Hymn 'Jesus Christ is risen to-day,' or the Old Hundredth, he must be insensible indeed, who is not stirred by this, one of the most memorable sights in Christendom. Or, again, when in the midst of Bach's Passion Music an interval is allowed for silent praj-cr, and the great multitude, some seven or eight thousand, are kneeling in devotion — it may fairly be questioned, whether the solemn, unbroken silence, the silence of the multituile, is not even more impressive than the swelling tones of the grand hymn resounding like the voice of many waters. The majestic building, the solemn purpose to which it is devoted, the crowding associations of the venerable past, are deeply impressive and soul-inspiring. There is no space to speak of the monuments to naval and military heroes, and philanthropists, and learned men, beneath the canopy of the dome ; of the tombs of Bishops and Deans in the southern aisle of the choir — Bishops Heber, Blomfield, Jackson ; Deans Donne and Milman. Nor, can much be said about the crypt, crowded as it is with monuments of departed worthies. The ancient tomb (it was brought from Windsor, and was originally intended by Cardinal Wolscy for his own monument) which bears the name of Nelson ; the massive sarcophagus of Wellington, meet memorial of a hero ; the simple, world-famed tablet to Sir Christopher Wren ; the picturesque chapel into which the Eastern part of the crypt has been transformed. These, with the yearly increasing commemorative tablets, will well repay the most careful examination. Mention must be made of the fine and tuneful ring of bells, twelve in number, the tenor weighing 62 cwt. ; of Great Paul, weighing nearly 17 tons (all cast in the foundry of Messrs. Taylor & Co. at Loughborough) ; and of the famous hour and quarter bells. Our engraving was executed, and appeared in Church Bells, in 1871, when there were two organs, one in the choir and one in the south transept. 6 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. ALL HALLOWS BARKING, GREAT TOWER STREET. III^RE arc few churches wliich possess the historical interest of this venerable buikiing. Its name associates it with the great convent at Barking in Essex, founded by St. Erkenwald, bishop of London, A.D. 675, and of which the first Abbess was St. Etheldreda, his sister. Some portions of the present Clnuch are considered to be of the late Norman period, and from 13S7 to 1530 the Abbess and nuns of Barking presented the vicars of the parish. Henry VIII. transferred the patronage to the Archbishop of Canterbury, in whose gift the living still remains. The Church adjoins one of the sites of the scaffold on Tower Hill, and the cluirchyard generally received tlie trunks of the men who suffered the penalty of high treason. The burial register of 1644 contains this entr)-, under date January 11 : 'William Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury, beheaded.' The Church is one of those which escaped the Fire of London in 1G66, and is in the main a Gothic building, but it has been seriously defaced both externally and internally by 'improvements' of successive generations. The appearance of the exterior is spoiled by the flat roof of 18 1 3 and by the deplorable curtailments of the churchyard and still more deplorable erection of a huge warehouse at the east end of the Church ; while the proportions of the interior are completely concealed by a huge gallery at the west end, which has the effect of shortening the nave so considerably as to render the whole Church in appearance nearly square. In spite of these drawbacks, however, there is much that is stately and dignified, and some recent improvements have shown that the Church only needs a true restoration to be one of the handsomest of the Gothic churches of the City. The chief features of the Church may briefly be described. The nave and the chancel, on one level, arc flanked by aisles of the same length, the ground-plan being thus an irregular parallelogram. The nave i)illars and arches are Norman in character, and arc the oldest portions of the existing Church. The chancel arches and pillars are of the fifteenth or sixteenth century. The windows for the most part are poor specimens of late Gothic, the east window having been 'restored' in 181 3. Of the ' fittings ' of the Church, the altar is a magnificently carved table of the seventeenth century, and the pulpit a splendid specimen of carved oak-work of the same period. The altarpiece contains some elaborate lime-wood carving, thought to be the work of Grinling Gibbons, while the font cover, also of carved lime-wood, is of the same school. The Church is rich in memorial brasses, and contains in particular a beautiful brass of the sixteenth century, one of the finest in England. The organ was originally built by Rcnatus Harris, but little remains of his work. The choir stalls have lately been presented to the Church by the present incumbent, and are of handsome carved oak, the designs being drawn by Mr. J. A. Reeve, architect, and executed by Mr. Harry Hems of Exeter. Under the direction of the same architect the high pews have recently been cut down and re-arranged. The Church is open all day. A ring of eight bells is in the tower. The following is a complete list of the Vicars, copied from the tablets in the vestry of the Church : — 1387, Wm. Colles. 13S7, Rob. Colon. 1390, N. Bromsgrove. Jo. Gierke. 1427, W. Northwold. 1431, Joh. Iford. 1434, Tho. Virby. 1454, Job. Machen. 1454, Job. Wyne. 1468, Thos. Caas, L.B. 1475, Rob. Segrym, A.M. 1478, Rich. Baldry, A.M. 1492, Edni. Chaderton. 1493, Rad. Derlovc. 1584, Will. Gedding, A.M. 1512, Will. Pattenson, A.M. 1525, Rob. Carter, S.T.B. 1530, John Nayler. 1542, Wm. Uawes, L.B. 1565, Ric. Tyrwbitt. 1584, Ric. Wood, S.T.B 1591, Tho. Kavis, .S.T.B. 1598, Rob. Tyghe, S.T.B. 1616, Ed. Abbott, A.M. 1635, Ed. Laytield, A.M. 16S0, Geo. Hickes, S.T.B. 1686, John Gaskarth, D.V. 1732, Will. Geekie, D.U. 1767, George Stinton, D.D. 17S3, Samuel Johncs-Knight, A.M. 1S52, John Thomas, D.C.L 1S84, Arthur James Mason, B.D. 8 ALL HALLOWS BARKING, GREAT TOWER STREET. ST. ANDREW, HOLBORN. I lie Church of St. Andrew, Ilolborn, originally the mother church of the populous district of Ilolborn, or ' Oldbourne,' as it was formerly called, is exceedingly interesting from its antiquity and its many historical associations. It was built by Sir Christopher Wren in 1686, on the site of an old church, in the ward of Farriii<;don Without. The date of the foundation of the original building is not absolutely known, but it is mentioned as having been granted, in 1297, by one Gladerinu.s, to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's, upon the stipulation that the Church should be held of them by the Abbot and Convent of Bermondsey. After the dissolution of the monasteries the right of presentation devolved to the Crown, and Henry VIII. made it over to Thomas Lord W'riothcsley, afterwards Lord Chancellor and Earl of South- ampton. When the Great I-'ire of London ravaged the Cit\-, this Church escaped, but the building being then in a hopelessly ruinous condition it was taken down, with the exception of the tower, about ten years after the Fire, and a new building was designed and erected by Wren. As to tl>c original building, we learn from Strype's printed will of Gilbert Worthington that there were four altars in the Church, if not more. The steeple was commenced in 1446, but from some cause was not finished till 14GS. In the first year of Edward VI. many of the altars and statues were removed, and in that year, and in the beginning of the reign of Elizabeth, the numerous monumental brasses of the Church were converted into current coin of the realm. Stow, in his Sui~vey of London, says : ' There be monuments in the Church of Lord Wriothesley, buried 1550: Ralph Rokeby, of Lincoln's Inn, Esquire, Master of St. Katherine's, who deceased the 14th of June, 1596 There was also of old time (as I have read in the third of Mcnry V.) an hospital for the poor, which was a cell to the house of Cluny, in France, and was therefore suppressed among the priories aliens.' Wren's new Church consisted of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel, and it has been greatly praised for its magnificence and beauty. One John Thavie, in 1 34S, ' left a considerable estate towards the support of this fabric for ever.' It contains a carved oak pulpit and a sculptured marble font, displaying four cherubim. The whole length of the building is 105 feet, the breadth 61 feet, and the height 43 feet. The old organ, made by Harris, was celebrated as being part of the discarded instrument in the contest for superiority between Father Smith and Harris at the Temple Church. But it is chief!)- from its tablets, and from its connexion with various notabilities of former days, that St. Andrew's is famous. There is a tablet here to John Emery, the famous comedian, who died in 1822. Lord Wriothesley, mentioned above, is buried here. Dr. Henry Sacheverell lies in the chancel, the divine who was impeached by the House of Commons in 17 10, and suspended from preaching for three j-ears. His suspension, however, only increased his notoriety, and in the very month that his suspension terminated he was appointed to the valuable rectory of St. Andrew, Holborn. Henry Neele, poet and author, lies buried in the churchyard. John Webster, the dramatist, is said to have been at one time parish clerk here. Joseph Strutt, author of Sports and Pastimes of the People of England, is also buried in the Church. In the register of burials appears, under the date August 28th, 1770, the entry, 'William Chatterton, Brooks Street,' to which has been added by a later hand, the words, 'the poet' It is considered to be extremely doubtful whether the entry ever referred to the poet at all, whose name, by the way, was Thomas, not William. The Church is open on Monday.s, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from 10.30 to 12 noon. The tower contains eight bells. 10 ST. ANDREW, HOLBORN. ST. ANDREW UNDERSHAFT, LEADENHALL STREET. 1 1 IE Church of St. Andrew Undcrshaft is situated nearly opposite the site of the old East India House in Lcadcnhall Street. Stow, the famous chronicler of ancient London, whose monument is one of the chief features of the Church, says that it derived its singular name from 'a high or long shaft, or Maypole, higher than the church steeple' (hence ww^^r shaft), which used, early in the morning of May Day, the great spring festival of merry England, to be set up and hung with flowers opposite the south door of St. Andrew's. This setting up of the iMaypoie was ultimately declared to be a superstitious custom, and Stow tells of a sermon preached against it at Paul's Cross by one Sir Stephen, a curate of the neighbouring Church of St. Katherine, who denounced it as an idol. That same afternoon, the good old historian says, he saw the Shaft Alley people, ' after they had dined, to make themselves strong, gathered more help, and with great labour, raising the shaft from the hooks whereon it had rested two-and-thirty years, they sawed it in pieces, every man taking for his share so much as had lain over his door and stall, the length of his house.' Thus was the ' idol ' mangled and burned. The present edifice, rebuilt 1 520-1 532, consists of nave and two aisles, with a ribbed and flattened perpendicular roof, painted and gilded with flowers and emblazoned shields. The chancel is also painted, and there is much stained glass, including a window with full- length portraits of Edward VI., Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., and Charles II. The most remarkable among the many noteworthy brass tablets and monuments is the terra-cotta monument to Stow, who is represented sitting at his writing-table, pen in hand. His body was removed from the Church in 1732. The building was handsomely restored during the incumbency of the late Prebendary Blomfield, and very largely at his own private expense. In particular, the elaborate and highly satisfactory east window was the gift of himself and family. On his death, in 1879, the living, after remaining vacant for six months, was bestowed on Canon Walsham How, Rector of Whittington, Salop, in order to find him an income as Bishop Suffragan for East London. On his preferment to the new Bishopric of Wakefield, in 1888, Dr. Robert Claudius Billing, then Rector of Spitalfields, was chosen to succeed him, both as Bishop Suffragan and Rector of St. Andrew Undcrshaft. The registers, which are in excellent condition, date from 1558, and are curious and interesting, especially the entries under ' Burials ' during the time of the Great Plague. The organ, a very fine one by Harris, 1696, has been considerably enlarged and improved during the last few years. It formerly stood in a gallery at the west end, but at the restoration under Prebendary Blomfield was removed to the chancel. The Church is open daily from 12 to 2. In the tower are six bells. 12 ST. ANDREW UNDERSHAFT, LEADENHALL STREET, ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE GREAT, WEST SMITHFIELD. ]\K Cluiich of St. Bartholomew tlic Great, and a large group of buildings attached to it, formed one of the earliest houses in England of the Austin or Black Canons. The traces of those other buildings are almost entirely lost, but mention is nKulc in a deed of sale by the King to Sir Richard Rich, dated 19th May, 1544, of ' the chief mansion or prior's house, with appurtenances, consisting of the infirmary, the dormitory, the frater-housc, the cloisters, the galleries (over them), the hall (or refectory), the kitchen, the wood-house, the garner, and the prior's stables.' The Church itself was foundcil in 11 23. Tlic founilcr was one Rahere, a man whose kindness is felt to this day, for he was the founder of the Hospital of St. Bartholomew. He was an ecclesiastic, and filled the stall of Chambcrlayne's Wood in St. Paul's Cathedral. On the conventual seal (of the twelfth century) the original design of the Church is shown, with a low central tower with two pairs of towers, one at each of the angles of the Church. When complete it measured 280 feet in length. The present churchyard was the site of the nave, which was 8y feet in length, and of which one bay still remains. This bay, w ith the choir and aisles of the original building, form the present Church. The choir is of five bays, separated from the aisles by solid piers, with semi-cylindrical pillars carrj'ing scolloped capitals on their lateral faces. The round arches have the billet ornament. The lofty triforium is composed of arcades of four round-headed arches, carried on three shafts and included within a comprising arch, which has the billet ornament ; the spandrils are plain. The northern triforium wall was rebuilt in the seventeenth century. On the south side is an oriel built by Prior Bolton in the beginning of the si.xtcenth century, probably used by the sacristan for the supervision of the altar-lights. The ambulatory under the triforium is the earliest part of the present building, and in the slightly domical vaults and horse-shoe arches show some trace of Byzantine influence. The east end of the original building terminated in an apse. A square lady chapel was built in the fifteenth century, projecting beyond what would have been the curve of the apse ; this chapel formed until recently part of a fringe factory. During the restoration in 1884-86, the fringe factory, which overhung the altar, was purchased and removed, the Church re-roofed, the apse built, the forge projecting into the north transept purchased, the organ loft and organ erected, and many lesser improvements carried out, under the auspices of the late Rector, the Rev. William Panckridge, M.A. The complete and beautiful modern apse, reproducing the precise size and the general architectual features of the apse destroyed when the square end was begun, is the work of Mr. Aston Webb, and all who can remember the Church in its old disfigured state feel that Mr. Webb has with happy genius carried out a work of great difficulty, that he has added to the beauty of the existing ancient architecture by so harmonious an eastern termination. The clerestory, originally Early English, retains a wall passage with shouldered arches. The modern tower, which appears in our picture at the end of the south aisle, was built in 1628, but altered in the eighteenth century ; it contains five bells, which are among the oldest in London ; there is an inscription on each. The internal length of the Church is a little more than 130 feet, its breadth 57 feet. In the Church are the tomb of Rahere the founder, the tomb and effigy of Prior Bolton, and the Elizabethan tomb of Sir Walter Mildmay, founder of Emmanuel College, Cambridge. William Hogarth was baptized here in 1697. This old Church is one of the most interesting buildings in England, ecclesiastically, architecturally, and historically. It is ojien daily from 9 to 5. ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE GREAT, WEST SMITHFIELD. ST. BOTOLPH, ALDGATE. N the days of the Anglo-Saxon King, Edgar, or, as more ancient records state, of the Danish conqueror, Canute, thirteen knights, who had done good service for the State, solicited the King to bestow upon them a certain plot of land, then lying desolate, on the eastern side of the city, with the liberty of a guild for ever. The warrior-king assented, hut first required of them that they should each engage three times in combat victoriously, and that on a certain day they should further tilt with all comers in the plain now known as East Smithficld. All of which bold deeds being right gloriously accomplished, the land was conferred upon them. The land and soke thus bestowed was afterwards called Portsokcn Ward, and was given, in 1 1 15, by the descendants of these knights to the Priory of the Holy Trinity within Aldgate, which was founded by Matilda, wife of Henry I. Besides offering upon the altar the charters of their rights and privileges, they gave possession of the soke to the Prior by putting into his hands the Church of St. Botolph at Aldgate, as the chief building upon it. This gift was afterwards confirmed by William Sanctae Mariae, Bishop of London, and by Pope Innocent HI. The services of the Church were conducted b\- canons of the Priory until the dissolution of the establishment, its surrender to Henry VHI. taking place on February 4th, 1531. The first Church of St. Botolph, Aldgate, was built about the time of King Edgar. In 1418 an aisle to be dedicated to St. Katherine, a chapel 'to the Blessed Mary,' and a new steeple were directed to be made by the will of Richard Burford, a wealthy bell-founder of the parish. Shortly before the Reformation the whole fabric was rebuilt by the Priory of the Hoi}' Triiiit)-. The second Church escaped the Crcat Fire of 1666, but in the following century had become so much dilapidated through age that it was found necessary to pull it down. An Act of Parliament was obtained in 1741 empowering the parishioners to raise money by annuities, and in 1744 the present Church was completed. The Church has recently undergone restoration. The galleries have been rebuilt, ojjen benches supplanting the cumbersome pews, while the heavy fronts have made way for the present lighter and lower balustrade. Four vestries, convenient for classes, have been con- structed in the hitherto useless porches, and the space at the entrance end of the Church has been thrown into the building. Plaster enrichments and heraldic devices have taken the place of a monotonous expanse of ceiling and walls, each of the heraldic shields com- memorating an event connected with the Church or parish. The tower contains a peal of eight bells. St. Botolph, Aldgate, is the poor Church of the City of London, Henry VIII. and James I. having deprived the parish of its once extensive ecclesiastical revenues. In another direction Aldgate is the richest parish in the City, the general charity income amounting to nearly 10,000/. a-year, most of which is applied to educational purposes. The resident parishioners are 7000 in number. Rectors .and Vicars. — 1 108, Norm.in, first Prior. 1135 {circa), Ralph. 1189 [circa), Stephen. 1214, Gilbert. 1221, Rich.ird de Templo. 1241, Richard. 1250, John de Toting. 1268, Eustachius. 1284, WiUiam Aygnell. 1294, Stephen de Watton. 1302, Ralph de Cantuaria. 1316, Richard de Wynibish. 1325, Roger de I'olay. 1331, Thomas Heron. 1339, Nicholas Alynton de London. 1377, William de Rising. 1391, Robert Exeter. 1407, William. 1437, William. 1443 [circa), John. 1445 [circa), Thomas Pomeroy. 1494, Richard Charnock. 1496 (c/rcv?), Thomas Percy. 1512, John liradwell. 1524, Nicholas Hancock, last Prior. 1543, Robert Mason. 1546, John Myles. 1556, Richard Wilson. 157S, Richard Nicholson. 1578, Robert Heas. 1594, Christopher Threlkeldi. 1597, Paul Bussh. 1604, Henry Ragge. 160S, Edward tladbold. 1610, William Biddulph. 161 1, Robert Prickett. 161 1, John Brigges. 1625 [circa), Samuel Bourman. 1628, Thomas Swadlin (ejected 1646, restored 1661). 1662, John Mackerness. 1666, Thomas Arden. 1703 [circa), Thomas Brattell. 1708 [circa). White Kennett. 1713 [circa), Benjamin Pratt. 1713, John Hutchinson. 1729, Thomas Kynaston. 1765, Robert Wright. 1783, Thomas Jackson. 1796, Henr>- Hutton. — John Banks Hollingworth. 1838, Herbert Kynaston. 1845, William Ludlow. 1848, Robert Peace Baker. 1S60, James Matthew Roberton. 1888, Robert Henry Hadden. 1(5 ST. BOTOLP.I, ALDGATE. ST. BOTOLPH, WITHOUT BISHOPSGATE. IM Church of St. Botolph forms a bold feature in the midst of the now rather tame and uninteresting buildings in the neiglibourhood. At one time, however, and when the predecessor of the present Church stood there, its neighbours were noble and beautiful mansions of wealthy merchants, some of noblemen ; and one house on the oi)positc side of the road, Crosby Place, was even dwelt in by Royalty, in the person of Richard III. These houses have not altogether disappeared. Part of Crosby Hall still remains, and is now used as a restaurant. Part of the house of Sir Paul Pindar, a merchant and an ambassador of the time of James I. and Charles I., is to be seen, but at present as a public-house. There are beautiful remains of the old interior decorations still to be found, especially some parts of ceilings. A mural tablet of this same Sir Paul I'indar is on the south wall of the chancel. There was formerly a tomb to the memory of a Persian ambassador who was buried in the part of the churchyard assigned to foreigners in 1626. The Church itself is of the date 1725-28, and is in what is called the Hanoverian style, from the designs of James Gold or Gould. Nothing seems to remain of any former churches, and little is known of their histor)*. Hanoverian is not the beau ideal oi ecclesiastical architecture, but its combinations of red brick and stone and some of its massive forms have a not unpleasing effect, and it is doubtful whether a Gothic building could supplant the present structure with advantage to the appearance of the neighbourhood. Whatever may be the merits of the Church, the eye is refreshed by its pleasantly planted yard adorned by a fountain. The parish registers contain the entries of the baptism of Edward Allcyn,the player (1566); of the marriage of Archibald Campbell, earl of Argjdl (1609) ; of the burials of Edward Allein, poete to the Queen (1670) ; of Stephen Gosson, rector of the parish and author of the School of Abuse (1623) ; of William, earl of Devonshire (162S) ; of John Riley, the painter (1691). There is a good ring of eight bells. In the former Church the Ancient Society of College Youths, established in 1636, rang the first peal. The inscriptions on the present bells are as follows: — 1st. 'Patrick & Ozbornc of London, 17S2. This peal of bells, raised by the voluntary contributions of a few of the inhabitants, was first rung in honour of the birthday of our Most Gracious Queen Charlotte whome God preserve, A.D. 1783.' The next five bells have no inscription. 7th. 'P. & O. 1782. James Smith, Thomas Probin, Josiah Fowler, Overseers.' 8th. ' P. & O. 17S2. William Conybeare, D.D., Rector. William Collier, Robert Hewitt, Churchwardens, 1782.' The organ is a fine instrument ; it was built by John B)-ficld, jun., in 1750 ; removed from the west gallery in 1868; reconstructed and enlarged by Henry Willis in 18S7. The clock was illuminated in 186S. There is some good stained glass in the window.s, that in the east and west being the best. The registers date from 1558, and arc in good preservation. Rectors. — John of Nonliampton. 1323, Henry of Colne. 1354, Richard of Pcrtcnhale. 1361, Robert Suardiby. John of Bradeley. 1363, ,\dam Kerne. 1364, Ellas Pinch. 1368, Robert Fox. 1369, Thomas lioghee. 1378, Thomas Ridehngton. John C.rafton. 1383, John Rydel. John Bolton. 1390, John Porter. 1395, John Campedcn. 1398, John Gray. 1399, Roger Mason. John Saxton. 1434, Robert Covenlre. John \Voode. 1461, Thomas (Bishop of Down and Connor). John Prese. 1471, Thos. Boteler. 1472, Robert Kcy\ill. 1482, John Pykyng. 1490, Richard Sturton. 1492, Clement Collins. 1492, Willi.am London. 1503, Robert Ayschiim. lirian Daley. 1 5 12, Robert Woodruff. 1 5 14, John Redman. 1523, John Garth. 1523, John Ridley. 1525, Richard Sparchforth. 1525, .Simon Matthew. 1541, Robert Hygdon. 1544, Hugo Weston. 1558, Edward Turner. 1569, Thomas Simpson. 1584, William Hutchinson. 1590, Arthur Bright. 1600, Stephen Gorson. Thomas Worrall. 1639, Thomas Wykes. 1642, Nehemiah Rogers. Samuel Leigh. 1660, Robert Pory. 1663, John Lake. 1670, Henry Bagshaw. 1677, Robert Clark. 1678, Thomas Pittis. 168S, Zacchaeus Isham. 1701, Roger Altham. 1729, William Crow. 1743, William Gibson. 1752, Thomas Ashlon. 1776, William Conybeare. 181 5, Richard Mant. 1820, Chas. Jas. Blomfield (Bishop of Chester and London). 1828, Edward Grey. 1832, John Russell. 1863, William Rogers. 18 ST. BOTOLPH, WITHOUT lBISHOPSGATE. ST. BRIDE, FLEET STREET. \IE parish of St. Bride was originall)' wliat \vc should now call a district of the f^reat parish of St. Margaret Westminster, and was a part of the manor of the Abbey. The Thames was its southern boundary, and the Fleet River marked its limit on the east. At the junction of the two watersheds, where the ground falls eastward to tlic Fleet and southward to the Thames, was placed in early (but not very early) times the Church of St. Bride. Though dedicated to a Danish saint, and close to St. Clement Danes, the Church cannot be ascribed to the period of Danish ascendancy, as the land it stands on was then under water, and there is no authentic mention of it earlier than 1222. It was a small Church then, but various cliantries were attached to it in the fourteenth century, which were, of course, not restored when Wren rebuilt it after the Fire. It is one of his masterpieces; and now that the wall-painting has been carried out in what is known as Renaissance manner, to harmonise with the architecture, it is probably one of the most perfect, if not the most perfect specimen of an Italian Church in England. The external features of it are too well known to need any comment. It is the only Church in London dedicated to St. Bride, though they are numerous elsewhere; but there is some difficulty in identifying the lady to whom the parish owes its name. There arc two St. Bridgets, the one a widow, the other a spinster, laying claim to the honour ; but the widow, who was, possibly, Queen of Sweden, can hardly sustain her claim, as a clerk was instituted to the Church of St. Bridget in 1362, before the date of her canonisation (1373); the Church, as was said above, having been in existence in 1222. The spinster, a lady of noble birth in either Ireland or Scotland, is said to have lived for part of her life at Glastonbury, and to have been buried in the County Down, with St. Patrick and St. Columba, leaving behind her a high reputation for sanctity. A more interesting because more strictly historical question is that of the patronage. As the Church was in the manor of Westminster, the presentation to it, as a matter of course, was in the hands of the Convent. It continued in the same patronage until the dissolution of the monasteries, and until 1485 was a rectory. Some time after this, and before the supi)ression, the glebe and the great tithes were appropriated to the Abbc)-, and the benefice was made into a vicarage. The plot of ground south-cast of the Church, on a portion of which the new vicarage -house stands, was once called Parson's Court. When the Dean and Chapter of Westminster took the place of Abbot and Convent, the advowson of the benefice was conferred upon them, and they are still patrons of the benefice. The only survivals of the Great Fire arc the \'ault of llcnr_\' lloldcn I'a friend of Samuel Pepys) ; the font, bearing the arms of the Hothersall family and the date, 1615; some of the Church plate (among other pieces a chalice of the middle of the si.xteenth century) ; and the parish registers. There are not many well-known names in the registers (though some of them are three centuries old) ; their most important record being the register of 2000 deaths in the year of the Plague ; and the only well-known name among the monumental inscriptions is that of Samuel Richardson, author of Clarissa, commonly called Clarissa Harloive. But the parish was the site of two other buildings of great historic interest, viz., Bridewell Hospital, once the Royal Palace of Bridewell, and the F^'leet Prison ; but it would be out of place to do more than refer to them here. The Church is open daily from 11 to 4. The tower contains a peal of twelve bells. 20 ~ ^\ VV^- Ci'SlW-' ST. BRIDE, ILEET STREET. CHRIST CHURCH, NEWGATE STREET. Ills Church is one of many with wliich Wren replaced those destroj'ed in the Great I'irc of London. It was commenced in 1687 and completed in 1704. Its size may be gathered from the fact that it will accommodate upwards of 2000 people. It is attended in the morning by the boys of Christ's Hospital. Richard Baxter, the great Nonconformist divine, was buried here ; and also Lawrence Sheriff, the founder of Rugby School, though his remains were afterwards removed to Rugby. The organ is by Harris, and dates from 1690 ; but it has at different times been repaired and enlarged by Hill. The present Church stands upon part of the site of the ancient edifice which belonged to the monastery of the Grey Friars. The old Church was founded by Queen Margaret, second wife to King Edward I. She began the building of the choir in 1306. Among the contributors to the work, which was twenty-one years in progress, were the Earl of Richmond (who built the body of the Church and gave many rich jewels and ornaments to be used in the same), the Countess of Pembroke, the Earl of Gloucester, and divers citizens. It appears from the account in Stow's Survey of London (see Church of the Grey Friars), to have been a very large and magnificent building, and to have contained many sumptuous monuments. This Church was 300 feet long, 89 feet broad, and from the ground to the roof, 65 feet. It was consecrated in 1325, and surrendered to King Henry VIII. in November 1538, the ornaments and goods being mostly taken to the King's use. F"or a time the Church was closed, but in 1546 was reopened. Queen Margaret was buried here ; and after her, her niece, Isabel, the unnatural Queen of Edward II., and many other members of the Royal Family. The last notable burial here, before the fire, was that of the accomplished Sir Kenelm Digby, in the magnificent tomb in which he had previously interred his beautiful wife, Venetia Stanley. This Church was given for a parish church by Henry VIII., in place of St. Ewen, Newgate Street, and St. Nicholas in the Shambles. By Henry the Eighth's charter there are connected with the Church, besides the Vicar, si.x other priests, appointed by the Governors of St. Bartholomew's Hospital, viz., one visitor of Newgate, and five to assist him in singing and celebrating Divine worship. These clergymen retain their ofifices and a nominal stipend during their lifetime, but they arc no longer required to officiate. Vicars.— Tho. Brigotts. 1554, Rob. Williamson. The. Beaton (or Bafell). 1567, Hen. Bedell. 1576, Tho. Garaker. 1578, Joh. Bell. 161 1, Hamlet Marshall. 16 17, Sampson Price. 1630, Ed w. Finch. 1642, Will. Jenkins. 1662, Ric. Henchman. Edmund Sherring {died 1690). 1690, Thomas Staynose. 1708, Samuel Barton. 1721, Joseph Trapp. 1799, Samuel Crowther. 1830, George Preston. 1S41, Michael Gibbs. 1SS2, Thomas D. C. Morse, LL.D. 22 CHRIST CHURCH, NEWGATE STREET. ST. DUNSTAN-IN-THE-EAST, IDOL LANE. I lie present Church is a modern building, occupying the site of an older edifice. No particulars remain as to the date of the original Church dedicated to St. Dunstan, but in old records it is referred to as St. Uunstan 'juxta turrim.' Stow, in his Siirviy oj London, referring to the monumental inscriptions which existed in his time, mentions one which was then nearly five hundred years old ; and speaking of the Church as it was in 1598, he describes it as a fair large church of an ancient building, and within a large churchyard. This building being, however, in 1630 much decayed, was fully rei)aired and beautified, at a cost of upwards of 2400/., and so remained till the Great l-'ire in 1666, when it was almost completely destroyed, the spire and the interior being wholly consumed, and the outside walls only left standing. The spire was very lofty and was covered with lead, and during the fire was seen tottering and swaying, until it fell into the surrounding flames. In consequence of the destruction of the Church in this manner. Sir Christopher Wren was called upon to restore the building. The present tower and spire are the work of that great architect. The spire is supported on four arched ribs springing from the four angles of the tower ; it is a graceful and much admired structure, and is considered a bold attempt in architecture. A spire of somewhat similar character is found at the Cathedral, Newcastle- on-Tyne — which is supjjosed to have suggested the idea to W'ren — and also at St. Giles', Edinburgh, and at King's College, Aberdeen. In this Church there was an organ by the celebrated Bernard Schmidt, better known as I'athcr Smith. It was removed in 1818, and placed in the Abbey Church of St. Albans (now the Cathedral). The building erected by Sir Christopher Wren in its turn fell into decay, and in the }-ear iSio the fabric was discovered to be in such a dangerous condition, owing to the bulging of the walls and other causes, that it was found necessary to take down the whole of the building, with the exception of the tower and spire, and to build it anew. The architect employed was Mr. David Laing, architect of the new Custom House in Lower Thames Street, in this parish. He was assisted in the work by Mr. William Tite, architect of the Royal E.xchange. Tiie new Church cost the large sum of 36,000/. It was commenced in 1817, and reopened for Divine ser\icc on Jan. 14, 1821. The st\le is Perpendicular Ckithic ; it is built of Portland stone, and is a very handsome building. The extreme length is 115 feet, width 65 feet, and height 40 feet. The height of the tower and spire is 175 feet; the tower contains a peal of eight bells. The registers date back to 155S. Among the eminent Rectors of St. Dunstan-in-the-East may be mentioned : — Cardinal John Moreton, archbishop of Canterbury; Cardinal Adrian de Castello, bishop of Hereford, and afterwards of Bath and Wells, Secretary and Treasurer to Pope Alexander \T. ; Dr. Jolm May, bishop of Carlisle ; Dr. William Barlow, bishop of Rochester, and afterwards of Lincoln ; Dr. John Jortin, archdeacon of London ; and Dr. Vicesimus Knox. Rf.CTORS. — 1312, John de Burton. 1322, Robert dc Tonstall. — Rich.ird Cleymond. John Kennington. 1374, Robert de Farrington. 1379, WilH.am de Islip. 1382, Wilham LuUington. 1399, John Lynton. \^o\, Roger Basset. 1401, John Malverne. 1421, Richard Cawdry. 1435, Andrew Holes. Thomas Kent {res. 1443). 1443, Roger Keyes. 1452, John Knight. 1456, Robert Kirkhani. John Botiller (rf. 1472). 1472, John Moreton. 1474, Wilham Attingham. 1482, David W'ilhanis. 1492, Adrian Castello. 1502, Richard Hilley. '533) John I'awlesgrave. Richard Smith {res. 1557). 1557, Richard Brawarne. 1565, John May. 1573, Eclward Simpson. John Copcotts (raster is appointed by Letters Patent from the Crown, and takes his place without institution or induction, the Temple being a 'royal peculiar.' 52 THE TEMPZ^S CHURCH. 'C|iirr| Irlls' Illiiiiii OF NOTABLI" LONDON CHURCHES, LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. CHAPEL ROYAL, SAVOY. ST. MARY, BATTERSEA. THE OLD CHURCH, CHELSE.A. ST. PETER, E.\TON SQUARE. ST. GEORGE-IN-THE-EAST. SI". GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS. ST. JOHN, HACKNEY. THE PARISH CHURCH, HAMP.STI' .MX ST. OEORC.E, HANOVER SQUARE. ST. MARK, KEXNINGTON. ST. MARY AiiHOlS, KENSIN(; TON. ST. AL(;LSriNE, KILBURN. THE PARISH CHURCH, LAMBETH. ST. MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS. THE PARISH CHURCH, MARYLEBONE. THE PARISH CHURCH, ST. PANCRAS. ST. JAMES, PICCADILLY. ST. LEONARD, SHOREDITCH. ST. S.WIOUR, SOUTHWARK. ST. DUNSTAN, STEPNEY. ST. CLENIENT DANES, STRAND. ST. AL\RYLE STRAND. CILXPEL Ol" ST. JOHN THE EVANGE- LLS1-, IN THE TOWER. ST. MARGARET, WESTMINSTER. 'ClU RCII 1U:LLS Ol-l'lCE, 12 SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. LONDON: Printed by Strangeways & Sons, Tower Street, Cambridge Circus, W.C. PRKFACE. OME forty or fifty years ago a depreciatory description of a Medieval building, or of any building not quite 'up' to modern ideas, used to be that it was 'old- fashioned.' The old fashion has now become new ; and since the great revival of art in general, and of architecture in particular, all buildings down to even recent times have been invested with an interest of their own as part of the great and continuous architectural history of the kingdom. This is especially the case with our churches ; and a further scries of notes and illustrations of these buildings will form an attractive subject to a numerous class of readers. In the selection of a fresh series of London Churches for our fifth Album, we could not open with a grander specimen than Westminster Abbey, illustrating as it docs, not by any means the largest, the longest, or the loftiest, but one of the most noted, interesting, and beautiful ecclesiastical buildings in Christendom ; not the most perfect in its present con- dition, but the most harmonious in its proportions and the most perfect in its architectural detail. But how many of its charming details have disappeared, and how much of its grand impressiveness has been lost, the architect, the ecclesiologist, and the antiquary can alone be fully sensible. Of this, perhaps, some small idea can be formed by calling to mind the exterior efifect of the north transept a few years ago, and comparing it with what it is now. Wc would deprecate the loss of the least detail that would assist in securing to us the knowledge of this history, or a trustworthy record of it. But some persons, under a specious profession of preserving it, would deprecate the reparation or reproduction of such details as will best preserve and perpetuate the impressiveness of the building itself In many of the later, no less than in many of the earlier post-medieval churches, it will be seen how much of their design and original intent may be resuscitated by the removal of cumbrous, inconvenient, and incongruous fittings, which have stood in the way of a true appreciation of Church services and of true religious sentiment. Let us visit and inspect our churches in an intelligent manner, and then we shall learn to discover and appreciate the beauties and merits to be found in them, and to direct our best endeavour to promote their preservation. We hope the present publication will tend to this useful end. But besides the architectural history, there is a vast amount of historical association connected with many of these churches which dcser\'cs to be remembered and recorded. For architectural interest, none probably will compare with the Norman chapel of St. John the Evangelist in the Tower of London, and ne.xt to this the Church of St. Saviour, Southwark. After the.sc — of the latest medieval period — come St. Margaret's, Westminster, Old Chelsea, and St. Mary the Virgin, Lambeth. In the modern revival of Gothic archi- tecture, the most striking church is that of St. Augustine, Kilburn. This stands upon quite a different footing from the preceding, being a splentliil example of what may be tionc in producing interior cITcct in the revival of medieval character. The Editor begs to thank the Clergy and other gentlemen who have kindly contributed information for the Album. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. O find tiic origin of Westminster we have to go back to the days of the Saxons, and to the traditions and legends which have come down to us from those monkish chroniclers wlio, when plain facts were too prosaic for tlieir purpose, did not stick at the invention of pretty stories in order to invest their subject with an interest suflRcient to attract the attention and command the veneration of our ' rude forefathers.' The legend runs that in the days w'hcn Augustine and his fellow -monks converted the men of Kent and foun J^xl t!ie Metropolitan Sec of Cantcrbur\-, Mclitus, ' a noble Roman,' was consecrated first Bishop of London, and, about A.D. 6io, he persuaded Sebert, king of the East Saxons (whose reputed tomb is still show-n in the Abbey), to build a church on Thorn-Ey, or the ' Isle of Thorns.' The natural concomitant of a church in those days was a monastery — hence the name ' Wcst-monasteriensis,' i.e., the monaster)- in the west (of London). A miraculous appearance of St. Peter is also recorded, which the Benedictines availed them- selves of to assert and maintain certain rights and privileges. But, whatever the story about Melitus and Sebert may be worth, we touch solid fact when we come to the days of our saintly Edward the Confessor, who had his palace here, and who liberally endowed the monastery. The Confessor built a church, which was dedicated to St. Peter, and he himself dying only a few days after the ceremony of consecration (December 2Sth, 1065), was buried before its altar. It is certain that an earlier church had stood only a few yards to the west of the spot whereon St. Peter's was built, and the Benedictines are said, in the time of St. Dunstan {circa 9G0), to have had large estates granted them by King lidgar. But the edifice which now stands at Westminster is mainly due to Henry III., who, we read, in order to do fitting honour to the canonised Edward, demolished all the eastern portion of the Confessor's great church of St. Peter, and, leaving the greater portion of the nave still standing, ' placed the body of the Saint in the most sacred quarter of his own beautiful fabric, in the shrine v.-here it now lies.' This spot, situated immediately behind the great altar, has ever since been styled 'the Confessor's Chapel,' and in it are still exhibited, besides the shrine of the King- Saint himself, the coronation chair made by his namesake who was surnamcd Longshanks, w'hich contains immediately beneath its seat the famous stone which he had brought from Scone, whereon Scottish monarchs had till then been crowned ; effigies of Henry III. (bronze), Edward I. (here described by the famous epithet ' Scoionim malleus'); Edward III. and Queen Philippa (in bronze, with the King's sword, seven feet long, ixnd his shield), and many other interesting historical items. Henry III.'s w'ork was carried on by his son and successor, Edward I., and was con- tinued under various kings and abbots, particular!}^ in the reigns of Richard II. and Henry V. The western end was not completed until the time of Henry VII., and the western towers were not finished till 1740, from designs by Sir Christopher Wren. It remained the Church of the Abbey of Westminster (Ecclcsia Abbatics IVcstinonastericiisis), under the Benedictine monks, until Henry X'lII.'s decree of abolition in 1540. But from the days of its consecration by the Confessor, Westminster Abbey has held a high place in the veneration of the English nation. He designed it for his own burial-place, and soon afterwards it witnessed the grand ceremony of the coronation of the Norman Conqueror, since when more than tliirt)' ICnglish sovereigns have been crowned beneath its roof, ' within a few yards of the dust of the Confessor.' 'As time went on,' Dean Bradley tells us, 'a swarm of traditions and legends grew up round the name of the King, who was canonised by the Pope in 1163. To be buried near 8 WESTMINSTER ABBEY {continued). those saintly ashes was a privilege that kings might covet. Accordingly, when Henry III. — a sovereign in many points resembling him — had drained the resources of his kingdom to_ rebuild the church, palace, and monastery at Westminster, he chose his own burial-place on the north side of the stately shrine to which he had " translated " the body of the Con- fessor. There, in due time, lay his son, Edward I., and his Queen ; there king after king was buried ; the children, relations, ministers, and standard-bearers of successive sovereigns ; there the Abbots of the monastery ; there lay Chaucer, who died hard by ; and there, nearly two centuries later, Spenser ; and it is easy to understand how increasingly the feeling spread that tf) be laid to sleep in ground sacred with the dust of kings, warriors, churchmen, statesmen, and poets was an honour of the highest order.' The present Abbey Church consists of a nave and two aisles, separated by ranges of loft}', slender, clustered columns supporting the roof, which is raised to a great height. On entering the western door the body of the church has an impressive appearance, remarkable for lightness and loftiness, though the effect of these features is much diminished by the numerous monuments which fdl the open spaces and cover the walls. Little was done to the exterior of Westminster Church from the time of llcnr)- \'1I. to that of George II., when many parts of it were coated w ith stone and otherwise repaired at the public expense. The choir of the church — in the form of a semi-octagon, and containing the Confessor's Chapel — was formerly surrounded by eight chapels: they are now reduced to seven, and that which was the central chapel now forms the porch of that of Henr)' VII. This chapel of the first Tudor monarch is a curious and elaborate specimen of ecclesiastical architecture. It was built on the site of a former chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, at the King's expense, and was founded by him .\.I). 1502. The principal object within this chapel is the tomb of the founder, enclosed by a screen of gilt brass which is said to have been executed b)- the I*"Iorentine Torrigiano, the rival of Michael Angelo. The other chapels surrounding that of the Confessor were dedicated respectively to St. Benedict, St. Edmund, St. Nicholas, St. Paul, St. John Baptist, and St. Erasmus (the latter a very small place, really forming no more than the entrance to the St. John Baptist Chapel), and the Islip Chapel, the last-named fitted up by Abbot Islip in the sixteenth century, its curious feature being that his name and rebus — an eye, with a slip or branch of a tree grasped by a hand, and a man slipping from the branch of a tree: 'I-slip' — are repeated many times in the elaborate carving, both on the frieze and inside the chapel, and were also painted on the window. Westminster Abbej- is not onlj- the sepulchre of kings and queens and other royal per- sonages, but of our greatest statesmen, warriors, divines, anil poets. Nelson's memorable exclamation at the battle of the Nile — ' \'ictory or Westminster Abbey!' (though he was after all buried in St. Paul's) — marks what an influence its associations exercise on our national spirit. The north transcjit — which contains the chapels of St. Andrew, St. Michael, and St. John the Evangelist — has been known since the interment of the great Chatham as 'the Statesmen's Aisle,' being the burial-place of statesmen, just as the south transept is of poets and men of letters. Here are memorials to Pitt, Fox, Grattan, Warren Hastings, the Cannings, Aberdeen, Peel, Palmerston, Beaconsfield, and many others almost equally famous. In the nave are the monuments of a host of distinguished men and women, celebrated 'in arms, in art, in song,' the contemplation of which conjures up a thousand-and-one interesting historical a.ssociations. Statesmen, philanthropists, philosophers, warriors, travellers, scientists — all are here. But the most interesting spot of all to the vast majority of visitors is situated in the south transept, between the Chapel of St. Benedict and that of St. Blai.se. and is known as ' Poets' Corner.' Here are busts, tablets, S:c., erected to the memorj- of 9 WESTMINSTER ABBEY (continued). those mighty minds which have made our h'tcrature so rich in all that is great and good, and the bare enumeration of whose names would fill far more space than is at our disposal in this very brief glance at the leading features of interest in this truly national church. In the Chapel of St. Blaise the Commons met in the reign of Edward VI,, and herein, in what is called the ' Muniment Chamber,' are kept the Exchequer records, including the Conqueror's famous 'Domesday Book' (brought from Winchester) in a vellum folio and quarto (completed ioS6, and a facsimile published 1773-83), the Star Chamber records, &c., and about eleven thousand volumes, besides old wall-paintings, &c. The following measurements, taken from Nealo's Westminster Abbey, will give some idea of the size of this splendid and ancient pile of buildings: — Nave: length, 166 feet; breadth, 38 feet; height, loi feet; breadth of aisles, 16 feet; extreme breadth of nave and its aisles, 71 feet. Choir: length, 155 feet; breadth, 38 feet; height, loi feet. Transepts: length of both, including choir, 203 feet ; length of each transept, 82 feet ; breadth, including both aisles, 84 feet ; breadth of middle aisle only, 39 feet; height of south transept, 105 feet. Interior: extreme length, from western towers to the piers of Henry VII. 's Chapel, 383 feet; extreme length, from western towers, including Henry VII. 's Chapel, 511 feet. Exterior: extreme length, exclusive of Henry VII. 's Chapel, 416 feet; extreme length, inclusive of Henry VII. 's Chapel, 530 feet ; height of western lowers to top of pinnacles, 225 feet. There are six bells in the north-west tower. The important work of restoration through which the Abbey is now passing has in- volved no small amount of thought, care, and skill on the part of the architect, Mr. J. L. Pearson, R.A. The great north entrance has just been finished, after six years' work, the debased style of work and rotten materials being replaced with new. The cloisters, the south side, and the eastern front will now be taken in hand. Westminster being a city, it is commonly supposed that Westminster Abbey is a cathedral. This, however, is not the case. A catlicdral is a church situated in a city which gives its name to a bishopric, and in which the ]5ishop has his seat or throne (Greek, KaOt?im, a seat). 'For a brief space in its long history,' says Dean Bradley, '(1540 to 1550 A.U.) the Abbey was a cathedral of a diocese uf Westminster. For a few years after- wards (under Edward VI.) it was declared by Act of Parliament to be " a Cathedral in the Diocese of London." .... Its legal title is " the Collegiate Church of St. Peter in West- minster," and this designation it has borne in all legal documents since 1560.' ' Its e.xtra- diocesan ' character has been always carefully maintained. The Abbey is open to the public every Monday, free of charge. On other da}'S the nave and transepts only are free, sixpence being charged for seeing the chapels, accompanied by a guide. 10 WESTMINSTER ABBEY. CHAPEL ROYAL, SAVOV. \J^M HIS Chapel is one of those privileged foundations not subject to episcopal govcrn- l™"l ment, and called ' royal peculiars.' The land on which the chapel stands was granted by Henry HI., in 1245, to Peter, Count of Savoy (hence its name), on his arrival to visit his niece. Queen Klcanor. It was afterwards possessed by Edmund, Earl of Lan- caster (1284), and John of Gaunt, during whose tenure of it the palace was burned by the mob, 13th June, 1381 ; after which, being inherited by his son, Henry IV., it was vested in the Crown as part of the Duchy of Lancaster, and thus acquired its peculiar dignities and privileges as a ro)-al manor. A hospital was erected in the Savoy under the will of Henry VH., and in the next reign a perpetual hospital was incorporated, consisting of a master -chaplain and four other chaplains. This was one of the institutions declared to be illegal in the first of lulward VI., and it was given up to the king. It was re-established in the fourth year of Queen Mary, but was converted into a military hospital and marine infirmary in the reign of Charles II., and shortly afterwards was used as a barrack. The hospital was therefore declared to be dissolved in 1702. When the use of the Liturgy in the vernacular tongue was restored by Queen lilizabeth, this chapel was one of the first places in which the service was performed. It was partly destroyed by fire in 1S64, and rebuilt at the sole cost of the Queen, in memory of the Prince Consort. The cost of restoration is estimated at 7000/. The ceiling is in style a reproduction of the old one, but in unimportant details somewhat different. The style of architecture is that generally known as Tudor, of the period of Henry VII. The chapel is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. In 1866 the Queen commanded a further restoration of the chapel. Painted chancel- windows have been presented by Colonel Wilson, the Queen's Harbinger; by the Royal Geographical Society, in memory of Richard Lander, the discoverer of the source of the Niger ; and by the descendants of Dr. Archibald Cameron, who was the last Jacobite hanged in England, 1753. Two chancel-windows have been filled with painted glass by two anony- mous donors, members of the congregation, and a large window inserted by the congregation as a thank-offering for the recovery of the Prince of Wales. Another window was inserted in 1873 to the memory of a late Chaplain, the Rev. John Foster. The oak pulpit was presented to the chapel by Mr. William Burgess, a descendant of Bishop Burgess, of Salisbury. The font and its oak canopy were given by Mrs. Dc Wint, in memory of her husband, Peter de Wint, R.A., and of her brother, William Hilton, R.A. In the baptistery is a curious 'gold-ground' picture of the Holy Family, probably of the early Sicnnese school. The picture was stolen from the chapel in 1702, and recovered in the cit}- of Hereford, 1876. Moiioriah of tlie Royal Palace and Chapel of the Savoy have been written by the Rev. W. J. Loftie, one of the Assistant- Chaplains, and the late Chaplain, the Rev. Henry White prefixed to the volume a short introduction, and (by permission) a dedication to Her Majesty the Queen. The present Chaplain is the Rev. Canon Curteis. Among the Chaplains of the past, the most celebrated have been Anthonio de Dominis (previously Archbishop of Spalato), 1618 ; Dr. Thomas Fuller (the great Church historian), 1641 ; Dr. Gilbert Sheldon, 1661 ; and Dr. Anthony Horneck, 1671. Bishop Gavan Douglas and Bishop Thomas Halsey lie buried beneath the chancel. Bishop Aldrich (of Carlisle), and Bishop Wilson (of Sodor and Man), were consecrated in the Savoy (1537 and 1698). Poets of the Savoy: — John Dryden, Abraham Cowley, and George Withers. The chapel is open every day, from 10 to i and 2 to 4. 12 fw^i-r"'-^^^^ CHAPEL ROYAL, SAVOY. ST. MARY, BATTERSEA. ATTERSEA Parish Church is a well-known object on the river-side, conspicuous from its grcen-coppcrcd 'extinguisher' spire. A church has stood on the site, which is a picturesque one jutting out into the Thames, for many generations. In Domesday Book it is written, ' St. Peter of Westminster holds Patriccsy,' and in the earliest registers of the parisli, dated 1559, the name is spelt Battrichsej', showing that the word Battersea contains in itself this much of the history of the parish church — that it originally belonged to the Abbey of St. Patrick, or St. Peter, at Westminster. The names of the Vicars appointed by the ' Abbot and Convent of Westminster' are recorded from A.D 1301 to 1561, after which Queen Elizabeth presented twice to the Vicarage, and it then passed into the family of St. John, represented afterwards by Lord Bolingbroke, and now by Earl Spencer. The present church, which has no architectural beauty, was designed by Mr. Di.xon and was completed in 1777. Its cost (4950/.) was mainly raised by the sale of a dock or landing-place belonging to the parish, and by granting leases for forty of the best pews in the church under a special Act of Parliament. These leases gave for thirty guineas a ninety- nine years' tenure of the pews, whicii were of the high-partitioned, square, and cushioned kind in vogue in the last century. Battersea was then an aristocratic village, and close to the church, in a house which still remains, though it is now within the yard of a flour-mill, there lived and died the celebrated Lord Bolingbroke, whose monument, with epitaphs for his wife and himself, written by himself, and with medallion portraits b)- Roubiliac, arc in the north gallery of the present church. Other interesting monuments, removed from the earlier church, are on the walls of the gallery — notably one in the south gallery to the memory of Sir Edward Wynter, an officer in the service of the East India Compan}-, who died in 16S5. His deeds of braver)- arc depicted in grotesque relief on the monument, and are thus described in grotesque verse : — ' .\lonc, unarmed, a tyger he oppressed And crushed to death the monster of a beast ; Twice twenty mounted Moors he overthrew, Singly, on foot— some wounded, some he slew. Dispersed the rest, what more could Samson do ? ' The leases of the pews expired in 1S77, and the church was then rc-arranged b)- Sir Arthur Blomfield ; it was rc-o[)ened with all the sittings free, and a sermon preached by Dr. Stanley, the late Dean of Westminster. The stained glass in the east window was carefully preserved from the earlier church, and contains portraits of Henry VII., his grandmother Margaret Beauchamp, and Queen Elizabeth, which are very interesting. The tower contains a ring of eight bell.s. \"iCARS. — 1301, Thomas de Simlniiy. 1306, William Trcnchcuent. 1320, Gilbert dc -Swalclyvc. 1325, Richard Condiay. 1328, Thomas at Strcte de Cadyngton. 1330, Elias de Hoggenorton. 1331, Richard de WOlword. 1366, William Handley. 1370, John (lelle. 1370-1, William Bakere. 1378, John Colyn. 1383, Henry Greene. 1394, Henry Walynfoid. 1394, John Berewyk. 1402, Richard Gatyn. 1413, William Comeloiul. 1413, John Smyth. 1457, Henry Oxyn. 1457, John Moreys. 1485, Thomas Huntyngton. 1487, John Heron. 1523-4, Nicholas Townley. 1523-4, Christopher Wylson. 1530, Richard Rosse, LL.D. 1560, John Kdwyn. 1 561, Thomas Mynthorne. 1561-2, William Gray. 1571, Owen Ridley. 1622, William Prichard. 1634, Thomas Temple, B.D. 1658, Simon Patrick, D.D. (Bishop of Ely). 1675-6, Gcrvase How, M.,-\. 1701, Nathaniel Cower. 1727, George Osborn. 1739-40, Thomas Church, D.D. 1757, Lilly Butler. 1758, William Kraigneau. 1778, John Gardnor. 177S, Joseph Allen, M.A. (Prebendary of Westminster). 1835, Robert Eden, M.A. (Bishop of Bath and Wells). 1S47, John Simon Jenkinson, M.A. 1872, John Erskine Clarke, M.A. H ST. MARY, BATTERSEA. THE OLD CHURCH, CHELSEA. ^WJ X v. of llie relics of OKI Chelsea, in the days when it was a village on the ri\cr bank, sBal still exists in its 'Old Church,' dedicated to St. Luke — a name now gi\en to the sacred edifice to distinguish it from the new church of St. Luke. The building externally has but little of architectural pretensions, and is built chiefly of brick ; but it is a picturesque object from the river, and it has many interesting associations. As no record is known to exist relative to the Rectory previous to the reign of Edward II., it may reasonably be concluded that the church was founded about that period. Faulkner gives the list of patrons, at the head of which stands Edward II., then Edward III., after which the patronage passed to the Abbot and Convent of Westminster in 13G8, with whom it rested until 1530, when Sir Thomas More, who erected the southern aisle at his own cost, became patron. As at first constructed, the church consisted of only a short nave, whose length may be decided by a Gothic arch, onl}- to be seen by exploring the interior of the organ. This arch contained the east window, and the original tower of the church stood at the north side, at the termination of the nave. The width of the nave may be seen from that of the present chancel, this being the main part of what was left of the actual original church when enlargement took place. The north chapel is known as the Lawrence Chapel, and is considered to have been erected at the time of the completion of the church in the four- teenth centur\' by the Lord of the Manor, Robert de Hyde. Since his time this chapel has passed into the possession of many, being an absolute freehold, but still retains the name of the Lawrence Chapel. Historically the More Chapel on the south side is of greater interest than the other. The date, 1528, is inscribed on the capital of the eastern pillar. This capital is believed to be the work of either Torrigiano or Holbein. The capital on the western pillar is English work. In 1666 the parish had outgrown its church and it was deemed necessary to enlarge the building. T'rom a paper in Earl Cadogan's Records, entitled, ' A disposition of the Pews in Chelsea Church,' Faulkner quotes as follows : — ' The old church, which was much decayed, being too small to admit the congregation, it was agreed by the parishioners that part of it should be demolished. Accordingly the shattered tower and west end of the church was pulled down, the north and south aisles carried back several yards beyond towards the west by two brick walls. The walls of the old church were raised, the windows enlarged, the old parts beautified, the churchyard considerably raised and enclosed with a high wall of brick. At the west end was built a lofty tower of brick, in all about So feet from the ground.' Since 1S55 the church has been considerably improved and restored under the auspices of the Rev. R. H. Davies and Mr. Burnell, architect. There are beautiful monuments in the church to Lord and Lady Dacre and Lady Jane Cheyne. The latter was a very benevolent Iad\', and at her own cost enlarged the church in 1666. On the north side of the chancel is an ancient altar-tomb supposed to belong to the family of Bray, of Eaton. On the south wall of the chancel is a tablet of black marble in memory of Sir Thomas More. In the churchyard is a monument to Sir Hans Sloane. Rectors.— 1368, Tho. de Preston. 136S, John Basset. 1371, John de Stansted. 1372, John de Foydon. Ric. Mokynton. 1385, Ric. Everden. 1388, John Beaugraunt. 1392, John Bishop. 1394, John Balsham. John Scarbiirgh. 1433, Galsr. Medewe. 1435, Alex. I5roiin. 1442, Tho. Bolyn. Will. Walcsby. 1450, Will. Lilly. 145 1, Tho. Chalers. 1454, John Pennant. 1455, Will. Hebbing. 1456, Will. Massanger. 1469, Will. Mille. 1481, John Mardelay. i486, Tho. Machey. 1492, Geo. Percy. Will. Ingelard. 1502, Rob. Tunstall. 1503, The. Loworth. Rob. Daudie. 1530, John Larke (attainted in 1534 for denying the King's supremacy, and e.xecuted at Tyburn). 1554, Jac. Proctor. 1554, Ric. Myrs. 1558, Matth. Myers. Rob. Richardson. 1569, John Churchman. 1574, Tho. Browne. 15S5, Ric. Ward. 1615, Geo. Hamden. 1632, Sam. Wilkinson. 1669, Adam Littleton. 1694, John King. 1732, Sloane Elsmere. 1766, Reginald Heber. 1770, Thomas Drake. 1775, W.B.Cadogan. 1797, Charles Sturgcss. 1805, Hon. Dr.Wellesley. 1855, R.H. Davies. 16 THE OLD CHURCH, CHELSEA. ST. PETER, EATON SQUARE. TANDING at the head of the goodly space occupied by the gardens of Eaton Square, probably no church in London has a more magnificent site than St. Peter's. Externally, however, it presents no attractions — if we except, perhaps, the west portico, which has a certain grandeur of its own. Built originally in 1S26, at a period when church architecture was almost at its worst, the outside case of St. Peter's still remains much as it was sixty-five years ago. When rebuilt, after partial destruction by fire in 1S36, the old lines were followed ; and even the addition, in 1873, of a chancel and transepts availed little to relieve the exterior plainness of the building. But within, a complete transformation has taken place. A handsome chancel forms the approach to the altar, which is elevated considerably above the nave. The east wall of the chancel is enriched with mosaics, and an extensive addition is about to be made to the mural decoration of the sanctuary. The centre of the old roof and ceiling of the nave have been cut away and a clerestory added ; light and graceful pillars, bearing an arcade of semi- circular arches, have been inserted at the front of the side galleries ; the clerestory walls rest on these ; the windows open into the space beneath the old roof, which is glazed opposite each window, thus admitting light into the church. The galleries remain, for the accommo- dation which they give is too valuable to be sacrificed, but they have now become an ornamental feature with a light openwork front. The old semicircular-headed windows also remain, but many are now filled with delicately-coloured stained glass. The east windows and transept windows are also filled with stained glass, in successful imitation of mcdireval art, by Messrs. Clayton & Bell. The east windows are a memorial to the first Vicar, the Rev. Dr. Fuller. A three-light memorial window has recently been placed in the south-east chapel by Messrs. Mayer & Co., the well-known Munich firm. The architect of the really great work of restoration was Sir Arthur Blomfield. The church possesses a very fine organ, which, however, is badly placed for sound, being too much enclosed in the north-east chamber built to contain it. The vestries are commodious and convenient. The church is capable of seating upwards of 2000 persons. Its original cost was about 25,000/., and nearly 20,000/. was spent on the restoration and additions which were effected whilst the present Bishop of Truro was its Vicar. There are two other churches in St. Peter's Parish, which are also under the direction of the Vicar : — The first, St. John's, Wilton Road, a fine building holding about 900 persons, and situated close to a large network of poorer houses. It was erected at a cost of about 16,000/. shortly after the restoration of the Parish Church. It contains windows of some merit, and the chancel decorations are very good. A triptych and mosaics are about to be added to the already well -cared -for sanctuary. The tower contains a ring of eight bells. The second, St. Peter's Chapel, Buckingham Gate, seating 500 persons, which is now made warm and bright within, and may be called the home of the children of the parish. The population of St. Peter's is about 14,500-15,000, and the parish is worked by a staff of ten clergy, aided by a host of district visitors and other Church workers. Vicars.— 1827, Dr. Fuller. 1S70, G. H, Wilkinson (now Bishop of Truro). 1883, John Storrs. ST. PETER, EATON SQUARE ST. GEORGE- IN -THE -EAST. lie r.iii.sli Cliurch of St. George-in-the-East was consecrated in the jxar 1729, and ii is the work of Hawksmoor and Gibbs, being one of the fifty new churches which the Act of the ninth year of Queen Anne, and supplementary enactments, called into existence ' in and about the cities of London and Westminster and suburbs thereof,' two others being also erected in the ancient Stepney parish — viz., Limehouse and Spitalficlds. The church is a solid, roomy edifice, reminding the visitor of Sir Christopher Wren. The building is constructed of Portland stone, and its chief external feature is a lofty and substantial tower, which shows far above the line of roofs, on a clear day, to spectators on London ]5ridge. It is about the same height as the Monument. The fabric of the church bears ample testimony to the good workmanship of bygone days. The structure of the stonework has never needed more than the most trifling repairs, and though the roof was re-leaded about sixty years ago, the building to-day is as sound as when it was consecrated. Changes have of course been made in the interior, but the exterior remains unaltered, except that the steps were constructed when the vault under- neath the church was closed, and that three windows in the apse was blocked up about a century ago. At the beginning of the present century the Vestry spent 4400/. in improving and extending the churchyard, and an equally large sum in beautifying the church and repairing the organ. There is a vestry minute ordering that the fine windows which are still in the apse should be ' painted in enamel colours agreeably to the design and proposal of Mr. Collins, and that he be employed for that purpose, and paid the sum of five hundred guineas for the same.' Within the last twenty years the church has undergone a thorough restoration, the old high-backed pews have given place to open seats, and convenient stalls for the clergy have taken the place of the previous unsightly accommodation ; the whole of the interior of the church has been painted and decorated, and new windows have been introduced throughout. The chancel apse has been redecorated and the panels fitted with mosaic, representing scenes in the historj^ of Christ; the stone paving in front of the apse has been removed and replaced with marble mosaic of a simple design, having in the centre a panel representing St. George and the Dragon. The tower contains a ring of eight bells and a clock. Besides ordinary marking of time by the clock, the ' curfew ' is regularly rung. St. George's is the only place in which the curfew fulfils some of its original purpose. Directly the clock has done striking eight, it tolls for a quarter of an hour ; the big bell is also rung for fifteen minutes before six every morning. During the incumbency of Mr. Harry Jones, a portion of the churchyard was made into a recreation ground. Prior to the opening of this oasis in the eastern desert there was no spot nearer than Victoria Park, some two miles off, where persons could enjoy a rural walk and escape from the gritty streets ; and Mr. Jones, after seeing the recreative capacities of the churchyard, called a meeting of the parishioners in reference to the formation of a public garden. There were, of course, numerous difficulties in the way; but in the end, with the assistance of the \''cstry and the Metropolitan Board of Works, an accessible and shady garden was secured. Under the present Rector the work thus commenced has been completed, and the entire churchyard, some five acres in extent, now forms a quiet and beautiful resort for the parishioners. Rectors.— 1729, William Simpson. 1764, Herbert Mayo. 1802, Robert Farington. 1842, Henry R. W. Churton. 1842, Bryan King. 1863, John Lockhart Ross. 1873, Harry Jones. 1882, Charles H. Turner. 20 ST. GEORGE- IN-THE EAST. ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS. IIE ancient parish church of St. Giics-in-thc-Fields was built by Queen Matilda, wife of King Henry I. (a.D. iioi) in connexion with a hospital for lepers. As has been remarked, it is a noticeable fact that in almost every ancient town in England the church of St. Giles stands either outside the walls or, at all events, near its outlying parts — in allusion, probably, to the Israelites of old, who placed their lepers outside the camp. In 1623 the church was rebuilt, Alice, Duchess of Dudley, being a liberal contributor, and towards the expense of which the poor ' players of the cockpit ' are said to have given 20/. It was consecrated by Archbishop Laud, who was at that time Bishop of London. In 1734 it was once again rebuilt, and had for its architect one Henry Flitcroft. Since that time the building has been at various times renovated. The work of restoration carried on by the present Rector has been under the advice and direction of Sir Arthur Blomfield. The church is a large and stately building of Portland stone, and is vaulted beneath ; the roof is supported by rows of Ionic pillars, and there is a considerable resemblance in many details of the building to the church of St. Martin-in-thc-Fields. The tower contains a ring of eight bells. In the church and churchyard adjoining, several persons well known to history are buried. Among these are Lord Herbert of Cherbury ; Shirley, the dramatic author ; Andrew Marvell ; the notorious Countess of Shrewsbury ; Sir Roger L'Estrange, the celebrated political writer; Michael Mohun, the actor; and Oliver Plunkctt, the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Armagh, who was executed at Tyburn on the charge of high treason in 1681. Perhaps more interesting, in some measure, than all of these is the memory attaching to a flat stone lying upon the very verge of the churchyard, having upon it some faint traces of what once were a coat of arms and an inscription. In this spot was at first laid the body of the unfortunate James Ratcliffe, Earl of Derwcntwatcr, who was beheaded on Tower Hill for his connexion with the rebellion of the Pretender in 1745. His remains were afterwards removed and privately conveyed to Dilston, in Northumberland, and deposited in the family vault, amid the ashes of his forefathers. The body of the Earl was again removed from its grave in Northumberland and carried to Thorndon, Lord Petre's scat in Essex, for re-interment, in 1874. There is an interesting monument in the church to the memory of the Duchess of Dudley, who was created a duchess in her own right by Charles I., and who died in 1669. A gate which formerly stood on the north side of the churchyard dates from the time of Charles II., and has been much admired. In 1865 it was taken down and re- erected opposite the western entrance. In the Yearly Report on t/ie Parish, issued by Bishop Thorold (of Winchester), who was then rector, in 1865, it is stated that the gateway is 'carved in oak' of the date of 1658. Two other interesting tombs in the churchyard are tho.se of Richard Pcndrill, to whom King Charles made his escape after the battle of Worcester ; and of George Chapman, the earliest translator of Homer's liiaJ. Rectors.— 1547, William Kowlandson. 1 55 1, G. Evans. 1579, William .Ste-.vard. 1590, Nathaniel Baxter. 1 591, Thomas Salisbury. 1591, John Clarke. 1616, Roger I\Iainwaring. , Gilbert Dillingham. 1635, Brian Walton. , William Heywood. 1663, Robert Bourman. 1675, John Sharp. 1691, John Scott. 1695, William Hayley. 171 5, William Baker. 1733, Henr>' Gaily. 1769, John Smyth. 1 788, John Buckner. 1S24, Christopher Benson. 1826, Jacob Endell Tyler. 1S51, Robert Bickersteth (Bishop of Ripon). 1 Sj 7, Anthony W. Thorold (Bishop of Winchester). 1S67, John Majoribanks Nisbet. 22 ST. GILES IN-THE-FIELDS. ST. JOHN, HACKNEY. MM HE Church of St. John at Hackney, stands near the site of that of St. Augustin, which was taken down in 1798. The tower of St. Augustin's, of Gothic architecture, was, however, allowed to remain. The Rowc Chapel, which was erected in the year 1614, and attached to the south side of the chancel of the old church, remains to this day ; but the interior is in such a ruinous condition that it is dangerous to alter. It was erected by Sir Henry Rowe, sometime Lord Mayor of London. In 1790 an Act of Parliament was passed for taking down the old church. In 1791 the new church (St. John) was commenced, and after considerable progress had been made it was found that the sum of 12,500/., which had been raised by loan, was insufficient to complete it. In 1795 application was made to the Legislature to increase it by 5000/. on the security of a church rate, which was granted. In 1803 a further application was made for 7500/., which was also granted, making a total of 25,000/. The last application was for the building of a steeple, the expense of which had been overlooked on the estimates. The church was erected under the direction of Mr. Spillcr, and completed and con- secrated in 1797. It is built in the shape of a cross, and in the centre has an arch of 63 feet. The whole length from east to west is 104 feet, and seating for about 2700, but capable of containing a congregation of nearly 4000. The present church is situated a little to the north-east of the old structure, and is surrounded on all sides by a spacious burial- ground. One of the Vicars, Dr. Spurstowe, who, however, was eventually a Nonconformist, founded a charitable trust which is the most valuable in the district, the income now amounting to over iioo/. In Lyson's Environs of London, published 1810, is stated, 'The most ancient record in which I have seen this place (Hackney) mentioned, bears date 1253 ;' and of the church — ' appears to have been rebuilt in the early part of the sixteenth century, and it is probable that Sir John Heron, Master of the Jewel House to King Henry VHI., and Christopher Urswick, the Rector, were the principal benefactors to the work.' The tower contains a ring of eight bells which were originally in the tower of the old church. The tenor weighs 24 cwt. There is in the Tyssen Librarj-, Hackney, an original faculty for recasting the bells of the church, dated 26th November, 1743, in which, singu- larly, the church is styled, ' St. John, Hackney,' without any mention of the name, ' St. Augustin.' Rectors.— 1317, Rob.de Wodeham. 131S, GauselinusCardinalis. Tho. Payton. 1371, Job. de S. Johanne. 1372, Tho. de Middleton. Tho. Kyllum. 1433, Will. Egmanton. 1463, Hen. Sharpe. 14S7, Joh. Forster. 1502, Chr. Urswick. Ric. .Sparchford. 1534, Ric. Sampson. 1536, Tho. Heretage. 1537, Joh. .Spendlove. 1554, Tho. Uarbyshire. 1571, Chr. Carlile. 158S, Will. .Sutton. 1650, Geo. Moor. 1664, John Greene. 16S4, Jonath. Bowles. 1686, Nehem. Moorehoiise. 16S9, Ric. Roach. Vlc.\RS. Tho. de Wichani. 132S, Ric. Hildertle. 1334, Ric. Kewby. Pet. de Whiten. 1371, Will. Enefeld. Rog. .Sl.itborn. Will. Furneis. 13S3, Joh. Buk. 13S4, Rad at Hall. Joh. Pomfrette. 1430, Tho. Chryshale. 1440, Rob. Bromezerd. 1457, Tho. Tunley. 1462, Tho. Hert. 1464, Will. .Stanley. 147S, Joh. Bettys. Joh. Mitton. 1509, Arth. Wood. 1516, Joh. Barrow. 1545, Joh. Willoui;hby. 1547, Joh. Woreton. 1549, Rob. Stookes. Hen. Wright. 1571, Tho. Knell. Hugo Johnson. 1618, David Daulben. 1633, Gilb. Sheldon. Calibutus Downing. 1643, Will. Spurstowe. 1662, Tho. Jeanison. 1687, Nehem. Moorehouse. 16S9, Joh. Bruce. 1703, Peter Mewcome. Rectors and Vilars. Tho. Comthwaite. 1799, Jobn J. Watson. 1839, Tho. O. Goodchild. 1888, Frederic E. Gardiner. 24 ST. JOHN, HACKNEY. THE PARISH CHURCH, HAMPSTEAD. I HE Parish Church, I lampstead, dedicated to St. John and commonly known as Hamp- stead Old Church, was erected in 1745. At the period when it was built church architecture was at its lowest ebb, and it was no exception to the rule which prevailed at the time. Its situation has, however, triumphed over its defects, and as it peeps out from among the surrounding foliage of the churchyard, with its coating of ivy, it is absolutely picturesque. The funds for the erection of the church were raised in a curious way. The people, after having applied, without success, to Parliament for help, formed themselves into a kind of joint-stock combination to supplement a sum of 3000/., which was raised by subscription, by offering to constitute persons who contributed 20/. and upwards trustees, and to those who contributed 50/. and upwards the first choice of seats and pews, which should become heir- looms in their families. Efforts were made on various occasions to put an end to these arrangements, but without success, until the year 1827, when an Act (7 and 8 George IV., c. 91) was obtained, by which it was ordered that trustees should be appointed in whom should be vested power to receive the pew-rents for the support of the fabric and the ser- vices ; they were, however, required to allot for the use and benefit of the Lord of the Manor, and of the heirs of Mr. Henry Flitcroft (the architect), as many pews or sittings as had formerly been allotted to them, thirty-six and ten respectively. In one respect the building is different from most churches — viz., in having the belfry and tower at the east end. It is probable that this arrangement was made from motives of economy, for the ground at the west end slopes down abruptly, and had the tower been placed there great expense must have been incurred in laying its foundations. In 187S the church was enlarged by the addition of a chancel at its western end. Other important alterations were at the same time made in the interior, and the tower was strengthened. The cost of this restoration and enlargement was 14,000/. W'ithin the last few years the walls and ceiling of the church have been beautifully decorated. The font is of yellow Siena marble, with moulded bases and carved Ionic capitals of white statuarj', and is raised two steps above the floor, which is of coloured marbles. A low walnut-wood screen encloses the area of the baptistery. The cover of the font is of walnut and sycamore, and is ornamented with six sunk medallions, representing the Baptism of our Lord, our Lord blessing Children, St. Peter and Cornelius, St. Philip and the Eunuch, Ananias and St. Paul, St. Paul and the Jailor. A figure of St. John the Baptist, after the well-known figure by Thorwaldsen, surmounts it. The windows over the altar contain a large standing figure of our Lord, with St. John the Baptist on one side and St. John the Evangelist on the other. This arrangement seems to suggest some uncertainly as to the dedication of the building. All the other windows are filled with stained glass. The upper tier of aisle windows contains standing figures of the Apostles, and the lower tier a series of subjects illustrative of the life and teaching of our Lord. In prc-Reformation times an old chapel stood upon the site. Hainpstead was ori- ginally a chapelry in the parish of Hendon, and became a separate parish circa 1598. The registers date from 1560. The present church will accommodate 1660 people. Vicars. — 1560, Stephen Castell. 1588, Robert Smith. 1592, — Brook. 1598, Zachary Cursworth. 1607, John Waggett. 1612, — Bradley. 1 616, John Paddy. 1633, John Sprint. 1662, Robert Blacklay. Walter .^dams. 1678, Sam. Nalton. 170S, Humf. Zouch. 1714, Francis Bagshaw. 1734, Robert Warren. 1740, Langhorne Warren. 1762, Erasmus Warren. 1807, Charles Grant. Samuel White. Thomas Ainger. 1864, Charlton Lane. iSv Sherrard Beaumont Burnaby. 26 THE PARISH CHURCH, HAMPSTEAD. ST. GEORGE, HANOVER SQUARE. illE Church of St. George, Hanover Square, is one of the fifty churches erected, by virtue of an Act of Parliament, in the reign of Queen Anne. It was designed by John James, and thers 1608, Richard Elkins. 1641, Thomas Hodges. 1672, William Wigan. 1700, John Millington. 1728, Robert Tyrwhit. 1731, John Wilcox. 1762, John Jortin. 1770, John Waller. 1795, Richard Ormerod. 1816, Thomas Rennell. 1824, Joseph Holden Pott. 1842, John Sinclair. 1875, W. D. Maclagan (Bishop of Lichfield). 1878, Hon. E. Carr Glyn. 32 ST. MARY ABBOTS, KENSINGTON. ST. AUGUSTINE, KILBURN. m ]\K Church of St. Aiigfustinc, Kilbiirn, is one of the most remarkable of modern cluirches. It is a magnificent structure in the Early English style of architecture, and is built of red brick with stone dressings, the main roof being continuous from end to end. It was designed by Mr. John L. Pearson, R.A., and consists of chancel, nave, aisles, north and south transepts, side-chapel, and tower, and is noteworthy for its loftiness and elegance. It has two special features, rarely if ever found in parish churches in this country, though common enough on the Continent, namely, a double ambulatory going round the entire church, and a very deep triforium, restoring the gallery of the olden days. This triforium is used chiefly by one of the Sisterhoods in the parish. The church is 173 feet long, 62 feet wide, and 55 feet high, and is covered with a pointed vaulted roof of brick with stone ribs. It is manifest that the heavy roof carried at such a height involves a .system of far-projecting buttresses. These buttresses, in the usual way of building, would be applied outside the building, and would spread out, perhaps, nine or ten feet. It is not at all an uncommon thing to pierce the lower part of the lateral walls with arches, and to carry a wall outside the buttresses, so as to enclose the space between the buttresses for side- chapels, or to pierce the lower part of the buttresses with arches, and so turn the enclosed space between them into a continuous aisle. Mr. Pearson has carried the device one step further at St. Augustine's. He has carried the external walls outside the buttresses, and carried them up so as to assist in supporting the main roof; so that he gets an ambulatory below and a triforium and deeply recessed clerestory above. From the south transept projects out eastward a chapel with an apsidal east end, which is used for daily prayer. This chajjel is dedicated to St. Michael and All Angels, and is richly decorated. The church contains some very fine sculpture in the sanctuary. The reredos is exe- cuted in Caen stone and has a representation of the Crucifixion as the centre subject. The chancel has a lofty stone screen, on which are illustrated the earlier scenes of our Lord's Passion, and six early Christian martyrs. The east and west windows are fine specimens of painting from the studios of Messrs. Clayton & Bell, who also executed all the other windows in the church. The font is a beautiful structure of different -coloured marbles, and on each of the panels is a carving in alabaster illustrative of the Sacrament of Baptism. The church has cost about 40,000/. and is capable of seating about iSoo persons. It is open all daj-. An account of St. Augustine's Church would hardly be complete without mentioning the large schools connected with it. The Boj-s' School, which was started in a mews and taught by two ladies, now numbers 840 scholars, managed by a staff of fourteen masters and four visiting tutors. The building was designed by Mr. Pearson and erected mainly through the energy of the Vicar. The Girls' and Infants' Schools, carried on by the Sisters of the Church, contain 1600 children. The Vicar is the Rev. Richard Carr Kirkpatrick, M.A. 34 ST. AUGUSTINE, KILBURN. THE PARISH CHURCH, LAMBETH. ii HE Parish Church of Lambeth is situated near the river and close to the gates of '^M\ the Archbishop's Palace. The earliest church, which was collegiate, was probably fouiuicd by Hubert Walter, Archbishop of Canterbury and Chancellor in the time of Richard I., whom he visited in his German prison, and whose ransom he collected. There are no remains of this church. The church has been several times rebuilt. The present edifice was rebuilt on the lines of the church of the last century, in the year 1S52, by Mr. Hardwick, architect. The tower was built in 1377, and has escaped the restorer's hands. It was under this tower that Queen Mary Beatrice took refuge on December 9th, 16S8. The inside of the church has been lately restored under the direction of Mr. John Oldrid Scott. At the east end a noble reredos, designed by Mr. Scott, with panels de- signed by Mr. Tinworth, has been placed by Sir Henry Doulton — all the work having been carried out in his Lambeth Potteries. The terra-cotta lights up remarkably well, and the whole has a most pleasing effect. The tombs and monuments in the church are very interesting, though, unfortunately^ many, at the last rebuilding, have been placed too near the roof. At the east end of the north aisle was the Howard Chapel, where were buried many of the children of Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, who lived in Norfolk House, Lambeth Road, in the reign of Henry VHL On the east wall of this chapel is a well-preserved brass of Lady Catherine Howard, wife of Lord William Howard, a younger son of the Duke of Norfolk. Here, also, is a brass figure of a man with the arms of Cleve, the friend of the poet, the Earl of Surrey, son of the Duke of Norfolk. Under the altar is the tomb of Archbishop Bancroft, 161 1. Also in in the chancel the tombs of Archbishop Tenison, 1716; Ilutton, 1758 ; Seeker, 1768 (at west end) ; Cornwallis, 1783. The body of Bishop Thirlby, the first and only Bishop of West- minster, was discovered when the tomb of Archbishop Cornwallis was being prepared. Inside the altar rails are the tombs of Hubert Peyntwin, auditor to Archbishops Moreton and Warcham, and of Sir John Mompesson, Master of the Prerogative for Archbishop Wareham, both richly decorated. John Dollond, the famous optician (whose parents took refuge in England at the time of the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes), was buried here ; also Edward Moore, the author of T/ie Gajiicstcrs ; Thomas Cooke, translator of Ilesiod, 1757 ; Elias Ashmolc, 1693, the founder of the Ashmolcan Museum at Oxford and author of the History of the Order of the Garter ; and Cuthbert Tunstall, Bishop of Durham, who was deprived by Queen Elizabeth. In the churchyard is the tomb of John Tradescant (1638) and his son, two of the earliest English naturalists. Close by is the tomb of Admiral Bligh, captain of the Bounty at the time of the famous mutiny. There is an interesting modern window in memory of the late Archbishop Tait in the south aisle. The tower contains a good ring of eight bells. The church is open daily, from 10.30 to 12.30, and from 2.30 to 4.30. Rectors.— 1 197, Gilbert de Glanvylle. 1297, John de Extoii. 131 1, Andrew de Brugge. 1312, John de Aulton. 1320, WilHam de Drax. 1335, John de Colonia. 134S, Thomas de Eltesley. 1357, Thomas de Ehesley, jimr. 1361, Richard Wodeland. 1376, Hugh de Buckenhull. Nicholas Slake. 1388, Philip Rogg'es. 1388, John Elme. 1395, John Launce. 1399, Robert Rothbery. 140S, Robert Derby. 1413, Henry Winchester. 1416, Thomas lienham. 1416, Roger Paternoster. 1419, John Bury. 144!, John Jerbert. 1452, Thomas Eggecomb. 1461, Thomas Mason. 1461, John Sugden. 1471, Henrj', Bishop of Joppa. 1472, Nicholas Bullfinch. 1473, Thomas Alleyn. 1483, Ambrose Payne. 1527, Robert Chaloner. 1541, John Wyttevell. 1560, Thomas Hall. 1562, John Byrch. 1563, John Pory. 1570, John Matchett. 1573, John Bungey. 1576, Thomas Blage. 161 1, Francis Taylor. 1618, Daniel Fairclough (or Featly). 1645, John White. 1650, John Rawlinson (?) George Wylde. 1663, Robert Pory. 1669, Thomas Tomkins. 1675, George Hooper. 1703, Edmund Gibson. 1717, Richard Ibbetson. 1731, John Denne. 1767, Beilby Porteous. 1777, William Vyse. 1S16, Christopher Words- worth. 1S20, George D'Oyley. 1S46, Charles B. Ualton. 1S54, John F. Lingham. 1S84, Hon. F. G. Pelham. 36 THE PARISH CHURCH, LAMBETH. ST. MARTIN -IN -THE -FIELDS. 11 ia.o HE parish of St. Martin was formed and the vicarage endowed between the years 1222 and 1275, to provide for the spiritual wants of the settlement grouped about the Abbey at Westminster, of whicli tiic area and population were fast growing. The green meadows and country walks of the parish gave it its name of St. Martin-in-the-Fields. Beyond this information little can be given until the reign of Henry VIII. Of the size of the parish in Tudor times some notion may be formed when it is stated that it included the now extensive parishes of St. James's; St. George's, Hanover Square; St. Paul'.s, Covent Garden ; and St. Anne's. In 157G the rated inhabitants numbered but 164, in 1601 but 260, and in 1630 they had actually reached 798! The rates collected at these dates were 27/., 112/., and 442/. James I. and Prince Henry were great benefactors to the cluirch. In 1626 a petition to Charles I. among the State papers states ' that since tlie beginninge of tlie happy raygne of your late Royal! father of blessed memory over this kingdomc the number of the inhabitants of this parish is tripled, and that number is much encreased by your Majesty's servants and the retinue of noblemen, together with a greatt nomber of sutors attendinge aboutc )-our Majestie's court and lodginge in this parish doe resort to this church, soe as ye same is nowe not capable to .recayve the one halfe of those yt doe or would come thither to heare diuine service, albeit the sayd church hath been dyvers wayes enlarged as much as possible by art and cost it can be.' The old church of St. Martin is shown in Vertue's prints to have liad a low square tower. Newcourt describes it as 'fitter to be taken down and rebuilt ;' and this was done in 1721-24. The cost of building the present edifice (James Gibbs being architect) was near 37,000/., of which 33,450/. were raised by rates. And yet so rapidly did subscriptions come in that a donation of 500/ was refused of one lady wlio wished particularly to enrich tlic altar-piece (Malcolm). George I. gave 100 guineas among the workmen, and upon being chosen churchwarden, the organ by Schreider, worth 1500/. The previous one was by Schmydt, who played here for a salary. These have long since given place to one by Bevington. The portico has a Latin inscription upon it. The church was consecrated October 20th, 1726. At the present time the tower has a peal of twelve bells, which are the first to ring forth the news of naval victories. And high in the steeple hangs the saint's or parson's bell. The churchyard was paved in 1829, the vaults reconstructed in 1831 ; and here is preserved the old parish whipping-post with a carved head. In the old church were buried Nell Gwynnc, tlie mistress of Charles II. ; Nicholas Stone, the sculptor and master-mason, employed at the Banqueting-house, Whitehall ; and Sir Edmundbury Godfrey, who was murdered at Primrose Hill, 1C79, during the Popish tumults. In the present church were buried Roubiliac the sculptor, and, in 1793, John Hunter, though in 1859 his remains were removed to the Abbey. And in the burial-ground was buried none other than Jack Sheppard, the notorious housebreaker, executed at Tj-burn, 1724. VlC.\RS. Tho. Skyn. 1363, Johannes. 1383, Joh. Atwater, \Vill. Foucher. 1384, Joh. Jakes. Sim. Lambel. 1390, Joh. Wymbeldon. 1393, Nic. Sprotte. 1393, Joh. Larke. 1400, Joh. Loudham. 1430, Tho. Laurence. 1433, Dionysius Kyrban. 1434, Ric. Jankyn. Ric. A'alens. 14S7, Rob. Everard. 15 15, Will. Sore. 1517, Per. Whalley. 1 521, Sim. Michel. 1 521, Will. Skinner. Edm. Weston. 1539, Rob. Beste. 1554, Tho. Wells. Rob. Beste. 1572, Will. Wells. 1574, Tho. Langhorne. 1577, Chr. Hayward. 15SS, Will. Fisher. 1 591, Tho. Knight. 1602, Tho. Mountforde. 1632, Will. Bray. 1661, Nath. Hardy. 1670, Tho. Lamplugh (Archbp. of York). 1676, Will. Lloyd. 1680, Tho. Tenison (Archbp. of Canterbury). 1692, Will. Lancaster. 1663, Nic. Gouge. 1694, Will. Lancaster. 1717, Tho. Green (Bp. of Ely). 1723, Zach. Pearce (Bp. of Bangor). 1756, — Sanders. 1776, — Hamilton. 1812, — Pott (Archdcn. of London). 1834, — Richards. 1848, Sir Hy.Dukinfield. 1855, Hy. Mackenzie (Suff. Bp. of Nott,). 1855, W.G. Humphiy. t886, John F. Kitto. 38 ST. MARTIN INTHEFIELDS. THE PARISH CHURCH, ST. MARY- LE -BONE. LTIIOUGH in Domesday Book no mention is made of Mary-le-bonc by name, j'ct it is l