[^':^'.::. JOURNEY FROM JACOBABAD TO PANJGUR, EXPLORATION OF EASTERN MEKRAN. 1881-83. CAPTAIN P. J. ]\IAITLAND, DErUTT ASSISTANT QCAETEE MASIEB GENEBAl, INTELLIOENCE BBANCH. sn^ -, ,T< ^: -^v/ SIMLA: GOVERNMENT CENTRAL BRANCH PRESS. 1883. ^ SrWT.A ; runTTED AT THE GOTEEIUEEKT CuiJNi'itATi BBAKCH PEESS, DIARY OF A JOURNEY KHIiM JACOBAEAD TO PANJGUR EXTLORATION OF EASTERN MEKRAN. By Captain P. J. MA IT LAND, Dy. Ast. Qr. Mr. Genl., Intelligence Branch. 1881-82. Sundaij, 20th November. — Jacobabau to Chajera. 15 miles. Take !Mo\\la(lad road past Railway station. INIoM'ladad 6.^ milos. Very heavy road. Most bridges broken. Country quite flat and partially cultivated, otherwise thin jungle. Practicable for artillery. CLajera a short distance off road to left. Monday, 'list Nocember. — KaiuaGarui. 19 miles. 13igari Bridge, (very good of brick), 3 miles. Then south to Dodapur 4 miles, (7 miles), lload along Bigi'iri bank is not practicable for carts, and the bank is broken ; baggage on mules went along it all right. It saves about 3 miles in distance but not much in time. From Djdapur west to Kaira Garhi. 12 miles. Good brick bridge over Bigari. On further side J mile of water to village; firm bottom, but still too deep for baggage animals with loads. Shallow places hero and there caused boat to stick, and we made 1 trips, taking 4 hours to get all across. Bead not nearly so heavy. Country as before. Tuesday , 22)111 November. — Halted; shooting in jheel. Very extensive. It is on right (north) side of canal. Nearly a mile across, and stretches from some way above Kaira Garhi to many miles below. Has only been so large of late years. Village of Kaira Garhi now almost deserted, some of the people having gone to Allahabad, but most to Nowa Dcyra, north-west beyond the jheel. Kaira Garhi post long discontinued. Camp ground for a large force will be south of Bigari, fur detachment or single battalion the green by the village if dry. Wednesday, 23rrf November. — Halted ; hoping to get in perambulator sent back from Chajera. Shooting. Thursday, 2Uh November. — Gandaka. 1G miles. North-north-west across jheel. Mules aud ponies carried their loads all right, good sandy bottom. At 4^ miles cross boundary KahU and British territory. At about 2^ miles, tomb of Nawab Khan, Gadhi Balueh, said to be several hundred years old. It is small, of brick plastered white, and is in good preservation. At 1 miles Nowa Garhi, a bran new village, people from Kaira Garhi. Zamindars Mir Ghulam Maho- med and Shall Ali, .Tamali ]?aluchis. Thence turn at right angles to left (south- west) through open country with a good deal of cultivation (high jowari), to Tiara Jamali about 3 miles from Nowa Garhi. Then south to Jang Dost Jamali 2i miles (total 10 miles from Kaira Garhi). On, southwards and west- wards, winding about a great deal to find bridges over numerous small canals: country is quite flat, open, aud well cultivated. The jowari now being cut. All this being watered from the Sirioah canal (continuation of Bigari) half the revenue goes to Government ; the other half to the Khan. There are some water wheels. At 13 miles hamlet of Dildar Jaraali. Thence about 3 miles to Gandaka, first south-west and then south-east. Friday, 2olh Novembei'.—Jlvdtcd. Shooting. Gandaka is a fair sized village on slightly raised ground at the edge of the jheel, which terminates about a mile below. There is a bridge here over the Sirwah. Banks of canal to Koira Garlii are said to be too broken on both sides for riding. Seems strange the left bank should be impracticable. This place is said to be so called from having been destroyed l)y an earthquake in ancient times. The Zamindar is Shah Khan Jamali. Jamalis altogether 2,500 men ; half in British territory. Chief is Din Mahomed of Rojan. Saturday, 2G{h Novemher. — Still halted waiting for camel and perambu- lator. Both came in about noon. Bought a mare. Sunday, 27th November. — Kitchi. 26 miles. Elevation about 865 feet. Marched at 9-30, but did not get in till 6, owing to missing the road several times, and we must have covered over 30 miles. From Gandaka, cul- tivation extends westwards 5 or 6 miles (in places 10 miles) ; then a strip of desert about 10 miles across ; beyond this enter cultivated country of Magzi Balueh watered by karezes and hill streams. Shadihar, marked by a group of good sized treses, is 20 miles, but water there was reported very scanty. We left it about IJ miles to our left and passed on to Kitchi; country jungly where not cultivated, and is like Jacobabad district, except for back ground of hills. There are numerous "jugas" scattered about, and a good deal of cultivation. Po- pulation all Magzis and Kosahs, except a few bunuias (l)akhal) in each village. Magzis muster 4,000. Chief Kaisar Khan, a young man, lives at Tal. 111- feeliug between Magzis and Binds still exists, but Kaisar Khan, Sirdar Khan, (the young chief of the Rinds) and Hasad Khan, Sarawan Sirdar, are all related by marriage and act together. The Kosahs are over 1,000 under Manik Khan. They act with tlie Magzis. The Rinds are said to be 8,000. Kitchi is a good sized place, but scattered : there are buunias here, and supplies fairly plen- tiful, though dear. Ilills about 2^ miles off. Passed to-day, at about four miles, and again further ou, roads leading to Dur. At about 8 miles, 4 small trees on right ; these are a land mark. Jowari fields on left. Tliere was no defined road at all to Shadihar. Beyond that are wide tracks to Kitchi, Barija, &c. In the cultivated country on either side of the desert artillery can march, but would be much restricted in manoeuvring from irrigation cuts. Cavalry too would be somewhat hampered. For about 13 miles in the middle of this march there is no water. No apparent way of shortening the stage, unless Shudihar Avater-supply (a few cutcha wells) could be improved. Being near the hills rain falls in this country and assists cultivation. Monday, 28///.— Halted. People left behind came straggling in up to 10 o'clock. According to everybody's story there is no road to Nar or any otlier point in the Mula. Tlie road goes to Kark (Koork on map) thence to Zidi. (See Route No. I.) From Kitchi to Shiubidpur is 32 miles. Tlic Sirwah is crossed half way, and would l)e convenient to halt at. Village of Bahram 8 miles from Sluidudpuk Jal is 20 miles from Kitchi. In the evening rode to Burija, a short 3 miles. At 2 miles pass small village of Mtiuik Khau Kusali, a friend of Kaisar Khan, who keeps his mares here. Bili-ija is exactly ojjposite L;ika I'ir glen. The turning into the hills at Sunt (this word seems to mean end or termination : — here of the outer range) is north-nortli-west, apparently about 9 miles distant, i. e., 12 fron\ Kitchi. To north are no hills, hut a lot of low jungle amidst whieh is said to be cultivation. The MuUi water flows outside, and beyond that Bolan water is said to come down. Sunt water forms the channel between Shadiliar and Kitchi. People here expect rain in winter, and d(!pend on it to a certain extent for their crops. Many caniels are bred in this country. Tile jmss called Pir Guji-ka-lak or simply Kand, is al)()Ut due west of ]Urijn. It is on the second range. The village of B;'irija is uotliitig more llian two or three adjacent hamlets of fakirs. Tuesday, 29//i.— Alkah (ILvji Maui Kubaii). 11^ miles. South by east parallel to hills. At about 1 mile village of Mitali. AValidera* Ali Morad Magzi. Beyond this the country is quite open, and there is little cultivation near the road. At about 5 miles is a solitary tree, 100 yards from which a scarcely perceptible trench marks the British boundary ; placed on the map at about (J miles. Westward it goes to Pir Surk, a ziarat at foot of hills, and on the top of the l)ig hill Kadahuni (Kadahi'ini is a Magzi hamlet) is said to be a cairn erected as a boundary mark by our surveyors. Eastward, the lino goes right away across the pat. It also marks the division between Magzis and Clmndias. The hills here are inhabited by a section of Maris called Baddni. Their eliJL'f is .ji'ui Khan, and they number about 100 to 150 men. They are quite unlike the main body of the tribe and are called fakirs by the Magzis, /. e., very poor inoffensive people : they are pastoral. At about 12 miles is a mound covered with broken pottery and called Mehar. About 2 miles to right front from this, {i. e., south) is a large white tomb on a low hill. This is llaji Mari Kubah. Beyond the tomb, to south-west, is a sort of hollow or valley, almost surrounded by low hills. Here are 4 groups of wells within a radius, from the centre of the valley, of about half a mile. They have distinctive names. That to cast is B;irah (1), to south Alkuh (2), to south-west Durb (3), to west Drabiini (i): 1 and 2 are nearest to the road: 3 is the best water, then •!•, then 2. No. 1 (Barah) is decidedly brackish. Alkuh has one big well of fair watei', and some small ones. Altogether water for 2 or 3 battalions with their baggage. The valley is grown with low jungle and small trees. Firewood and camel grazing abundant, kirbee is procurable within a few miles. All other supplies must be carried. Soil here is soft, deep sand. The road as far as Mehar mound is good and well delined. Beyond, various tracks diverge, but llaji Mari Kubah is a land mark that cannot be missed. IFednesdaij, ZQlh. — Giiaibi Devua AVells. 151 miles. Eastwards to gain main track, which is, however, not very clear. Then south-south-east ; country open, low hills to right gradually diverging. Low jungle, and very little cultiva- tion visible. At \l miles pass Durb, a Chundia hamlet on the Durb Nai, about 2 miles olf towards the hills. At 12^ miles pass tombs on the right. At 13} miles turn to left (the village of Ghaibi Doyra is visible about 2 miles straiglit on). Hence through high open jungle of "kalel." At 15.\ miles reach wells containing abundant su])ply of good water. The water at Ghaibi Deyra itself • WudLera is a term applied by some tribes to their Chiefs. is salt and very inferior. The people of the village get their drinking water from here. Close to are some dozen liute and "jugas." The jungle is quite open enough for camping. Country about here subject to hill floods. Village of Ghaibi Deyra about 1^ miles south-west. It is a good sized place containing residence of Ghaibi Khan, chief of the Cliandias, and now an old Iran. No cultivation near : about 30 bunnias' shops in the village, and sup. I)lies procurable in neighbourhood ; but in case of a large force, previous arrauo-ement should be made through Shikarpur and Larkana civil authorities. Thursday, \st December. Halted. A great deal of diflBculty in getting iuforraation about roads. It seems the old road from here by which oflBcers used to go to Daryaro is blocked by land slips. These are of frequent occurrence, and the road wants renewing every year. It is now im])assable for any animal, (See Route No. II). A road from Pir Godra by the Arbab Lak is however reported open and used by kafilas. Ilave heard of this, and as it has never been explored, determined to try it. However, I have got so much fur- ther to the south than was contemj)lated, that it is necessary to go into Larkana, and have a look at the roads leading from thence westwards. Ordered people to Hamal, and prepared to start very light. Friday, 2}hI December. — Kambak. 21 miles. From camp south-east tlu'ough open jungle for about 1} miles to main road ; here a rough cart track leading straight to Ghaibi Deyra village. Turn east down road, wldch soon improves. It is an ordinary uumetalled district road cut straight across country. At 9 miles cross road from Shadadpiir to Hamal. Shadadpiir is said to be 8 kos. Beyond this the road is narrow, trenched on either side, and the country shows signs of being within the annual inundation of the Indus. Cultivation begins to appear. Otherwise low jungle. At 12 miles on left (north) of road is the village of Slunk Nur Mahomad Siudi. At 13 miles Mian, or Mihan, Kahi (Dost Mahomed Khan — Burdi Baluch) a good sized village with 10 or 12 bunnias' shops : 2 paka wells, one north, one south of village, a third some distance north ; water abundant, 12 feet from surface. Rice is principal kharif crop here. Jowari and wheat, rabi crops. Owing to inundation, road is generally impassable from June till October, but would be always fit for troops in December. Good ground for camping, west and north of village, according to crops. Hence to Kambar bungalow, 8 miles ; unmetalled road quite straight, and very good ; country more wooded and cultivated. It is subject to inundation. 4 small irrigation canals ; 2 uubridged. One wants some cutting down for guns. Kambar is a small town with bazar, &e., the head- quarter of a taluka in the Larkdna district of the Sliikdrpur Collectorate. Water abundant, and exists everywhere a few foot below surface. Camping ground liad better be selected when required. Supplies al)undant. Salurdai/, Srd I>ecember.—L\KK\y\. 12 miles. From bungalow east, road (unuK.'talled) narrow and raised, with ditch on either hand all the way. Trees along it give complete shade as far as the Sirkari Wah, 3 miles. This is crossed by a high i)itelie(l brick bridge. Several other and smalhu- canals have all good paka brick bridges, except two near Larkana, the bridges of which are katcha, as also some culverts. Road very good, except last 3 miles, which is heavy in sand, this jjiece is much broader than the first. Country, annually inundated, is well wooded with lines of large babul along canal banks, &c. Soil, a rather stifl'clay, is rich, and on the whole well cultivated. Staple grains are : karif— rice ; and rabi — wheat and jowari. Some gram is also grown. Many villages. Although last flood was below avera^'e, a good deal of water is still out. Troops must keep to roads in marching, but infantry and cavalry could manoeuvre. At 10 miles cross G;'ir, a larg3 semi-natural channel. Good brick bridge. Thence road turns south-east. Railway Station, south of town, is 12 miles. Left this evening for Jacobabad. Siindat/, ith December. — In Jacobabad. Monday, blh December. — To Budra (the second station below Larkuna), 7 hours by rail. Thence to Nasirab;id, 71 miles. Road leads away west from the station, and at 1 mile turns to right to gain Badra vilb.ge. Passing west of this it goes straight to Nasirabad. Unmetal- led district road, heavy in some places. Country pai'tly cultivated, j)artly low jungle. After 3 miles from Badra there is a shallow ditch on either road side. A bungalow at Naslrabdd. AYater abundant. Supplies ditto. Titesday, Gth December. — n.\>iAL. 20 miles. From Nasirabad west to Gaji Kohava. Unmetalled district road, slightly raised and with ditches. A large unbridged canal close to Nasirabad. Country mostly jungle. Just before reaching Guji cross Wdrah— ]Mchar road : former G miles north, latter 8 miles south. Zamindar of Gaji is Lanali Sindi : 20 bunnias : 1 kutcha wells, with not much water; but a good deal more might be got by digging a number of wells. However, cavalry and artillery might go by Warah to Ilamal. Low tamarisk jungle all round G.'iji. Uence on, nearly straight, to Gahi Chandia, 11 miles. Country and road pretty much as before ; no villages near road, but several visible at a distance. Irrigation cuts have only stick bridges, and would have to be cut down for guns ; but almost any canal in the country can be thus made passable by the men of a battery in 10 minutes to half an hour. At Gahi is one good cutcha well to east of village ; and 2 miles before reaching the same, on the right hand (north) side of the road from Gaji, is a paka well. The Zamindar of Gahi is Ali Baksh Chandia. There are 15 bunnias' shops. Camping ground west according to cultivation. To east all is low jungle. Ilamal is 2 miles north of Gahi on main south road through Ghaibi Dera to jMahdeh, whence I believe it joins the main road to Karachi. Mahdeh is 7 koss from Gaji. Ilamal is a good sized village, Wahdera Mirza Khan Chandia. There are 20 bunnias' shops. To south-east of village is a good paka well, witli plenty of water about 22 feet below surface, quality good : it is raised by a coorla worked by a bullock or by hand. Good deal of cultivation here. JTednesdoy, 1th December. — I'm Godua hamlet. About 10 miles from Ilamal by direct road ; lOJ by aUii (SJ from GAhi itself). First to Gahi. Thence south-west towards low hills, country quite open, cultivated here and there. Road is a well defined cart track. At 6 miles (from Giihi) enter hills by a gap. On left hand of entrance are two paka graves, one of Masino Rind, by whose name the gap is known. The outer range is conglomerate, and docs not rise to more than about 2.50 feet above plain. Within are still lower pai-aUel ridges of dark coarse sand stone or sand shale. The gap through first ridge is very short; thence road turns south-south-west, hetween ridges° for one mile, crossing a water shed. When nearly opposite end of con- glomerate ridge, it turns again to right tlirough a small " lak, " on the further side of which is Pir Godra tomb, and a few huts (7^- miles). The cart road goes round to smth. About i a mile south-west of the tomb is a cutcha well with not much water. The tract now entered is a sort of sandy valley well grown with ti-jcs and bushes. It is about 1^ miles across. The road goes on nearly west, and crosses the Dilah, a very broad, shallow, dry channel. Here is f of a mile of deep sand. On further bank of Dilah are more huts and some patches of cultivation (8^ miles from Gahi). Camp here ; water from 2 cutcha wells in bed of nala ; 12 feet to water and 4 or 5 feet of latter. It is excellent, and abundance might be got by digging more wells. People here and at the " Shah" (Fir's torn!)) are ChuiuliaBaluch ; 1 bunuia at the Shah. Direct road from I laraal crosses low hills north of Pir Godralak. Distance from Ilamal 10 miles. Thursday, Sth Decembei'.— KxhiASi. 11 miles. North-west for a mile, then bend left and ascend Sagro, a shallow, dry, sandy water-course joining Dilah. It is about 500 yards wide, low sandstone elevations on either side the bed, which contains scattered jungle. At 3| miles quit Sagro, which comes from soutli-west. Track also bends leftwards and traverses an open stony plain, diagonally, towards the next range of low hills. Tliis plain is about 3 mile wide, and of great length from north-north-east, to south-south-west. It is called Firaj to north and Lundo to south. Small trees and bushes are pretty thickly scattered over it. At about 8 miles roach a gap in conglomerate ridge through which escapes the Kadari Nala to join the Sagro. Descent into Kadari is rough, with loose stones. Fair camel track, and could easily be made all right fur guns. Hence rough road up Kadari, passing through ridge and over a small stony plateau, beyond which is another descent into nala. Pioad continues up Kadari in a westerly direction. It is rough, but not difBcult for camels. Hills on either side close in but are of no great height. After some distance (at 10| miles) there is a sharp turn to the right, following the torrent; here the jungle almost disappears, and naked hills enclose a narrow barren valley. After half a mile a turn to the left is made to pass through a small ridge ; thence nala bed again bends to right (nortli). At the corner, however, is the camping ground. It is sandy and confined. On a small stony plateau to right (east) a little mire room might be found, but altogether a single battalion would hs rather crowded. "Water from two holes in bed of torrent. These are springs, but very small ones. People of the country (Cliandias) say that 200 sowars would always find water, at least up to the hot weather ; but one would not think so to sec the spot. About IJ miles higher up there is said to be a better watering place, however this is right oflF the road. There is a little coarse grass on the hills, but even mules will hardly eat it. Wood abundant, and camel forage tolerable. No supplies or permanent inhabitants. Friday y 9lh December. — Arbab. 12| miles. From camp soutli wards, crossing uala, and entc-ring a small defile between sandstone rocks. Tiien a small open s[)ace succeeded by a stoep and rather rougli descent to Karara nala. Camel track fair up to this point. Path turning to right (west) ascends Karara. A short distance up is brackish water, and a little short grass on right hand side. Place called Tufiii. Tiifu is a flat stone for baking bread. There are many places so called, at, or near, points where hill routes enter the plains. Here the uomad Brahuis going down for the cold weather select the tuf'us which are to serve them till they return to the hills in spring. General direc- tion south-south-west ; road tolerable for camels. At 1^ miles turn to south-west. All along the road has been more or less of a dcifile, and the hills now begin to get higher and clos(i in (m tlie nala. At 2 J miles some very rough places. The hills are now high, and defile narrowing. At 3 miles enter a gorge with entrance only about 10 feet. Further on the rocks fall back somewhat, but there are many very narrow places. The ascent is considerable, and road bad, over fallen blocks and boulders. Loaden camels can only just get along. Even riding is difficult. This defile pierces the considerable ridge, visible from the plain, between the low outer hills and the main range. The enclosing heights are lofty and precipitous. At two points the defile forks, in the first instance rather deceptively, but the right liand branch is to be kept to in both instances. At about 1^- miles, quit torrent bed for the hill side to left; ascent gnud ; descent steep, but a fair camel track. A*^ 5 miles regain nala. lload still vfry rougli and bad. At about G miles, quit torrent and pass over a low kwtal, camel track good. (Rise from Kaliani 78 feet in a mile). After a slight descent road continues up another ravine. Rough but better. At about /a- miles turn to left and cross a third kotal, this is a watershed. Tlience down a ravine, narrow and rather winding, general direction south- west. There are some rough places, ])ut road tolerabli>, and easier as one advances. At 10 miles reach the Arbdb Xai, and turn up it. It is a big, wooded ravine, containing a cheerful stream rippling through boulders, with occasional deepish pools. Average breadth when in one channel about 20 feet. After 1^ mile there is cultivation, a long strip on right bank. At 12 miles the valley forks. That from the left contains the Pir Laka* Xai which does not come from very far. To the right is the Arbal). Tiierc is more cultivation about the fork, and th<- banks of both streams are thickly wooded with l)abul, tamarisk, &c. People hereabouts are Sasuli Bnihiiis, called La/ci, from living near the "lak" (pass). It is however Chandia country of Mir Mahomed's section. The Wahdera of Arlub is Faiz ]\rahonied Cl^'india. Two Siud policemen are stationed here. A considerable force might camp on the cultivated land if clear of crops. There is little or no room elsewhere. Wood, water and camel grazing abundant and good. Some natural grass is also procurable. This road is evidently much used. A wool kafila of about 10 camels is • The same as be of the hot spring. There are BCTernl spots called after Pir Laka, who was a verj peripatetic saint. here. People are of Gaj, but goods belong to traders of Karak and Zidi. Ilorscmen took 51- hours to do the march. Mules light laden 6^ hours. Camels 11 hours. The hills around abound with gad (oorial) and ibex. They are sometimes visited by oflQcers in search of sport. Saiurday, 10th December.— 'Qwvii. 11 miles. Up Arbab for about 2 miles, rather rough but nothing very bad. Here the head of the stream is formed by two ravines. No water from this point to camp. Track now leads diagonally up a smooth bare rock slope. It is very slippery in places, and shod horses can hardly get along. Camels do better. This ascent, about f of a mile in length, is the worst bit of the road, but a good path might easily be made, similar to that on the north side of Chappar. Above the ascent is a stony level space, or small plateau. On the left is a deep ravine coming abruptly to an end. At 3^ miles' track again begins to ascend, and winds along stony hill sides, rising steadily. The gradients are easy, and the path a tolerable one for camels. At about 5 miles there is a descent, but it is not a long one. In the next mile are several rough places, obliging horsemen to dismount. Here, as else- where, the great dilBeuIty is the slippcriness of the limestone boulders, polished by much traffic. After this the road is fairly rideable, though not good. At about 8| miles reach, and cross, the shoulder of a spur wliich projects from the lowest part of the main range near where the road crosses it. Two patches of cultivation some way off on the slopes of the main ridge are called Kubi and belong to Sasulis. No water. Ilence bend to left (south-west) along the slopes of tlic spur above men- tioned ; a ravine on the right divides it from the main range. At 11 miles reach camping ground opposite a big hole of good water in the ravine below. Ground very confined, and it is difficult to say where more could be found. There might be a place cleared some way up the hill side to east. Everywhere the hill sides have a thin sprinkling of small trees and bushes. The ravines are thickly grown. It is evident that this road has at some time or other been regularly made as a camel track, and this is said to have been done by the Tdlpurs. It sadly wants re-making however. There are no great natural diflBculties. The gradients are easy, and it is only necessary to clear away the blocks of limestone which in places strew the hill side, to fill up the spaces between them with rubble, and level the path over it. Mules (light laden) took C hours to do the march. Camels 9.| hours. However, one of the latter fell and died of internal injuries. Wood and water abundant at Bdpri, but no camel grazing. Froze in the night. Sunday, Wth December.— Gaj. 8| miles. From camp about ^ of a mile to crest of main range, road fair. Ascent of last bit is rather steep but easy. Good view from crest over a rocky country, more open however than that between the foot of the range and the Sind plain. A white limestone hill bearing 292^ true, is Pinju. At the foot of this, on the further side, is the camping ground so called, rather more than half way to ZiJi from G;ij. Elevation of crest 4,500 feet. The name Karo is sometimes applied to the whole range. On tlie west side there is a searp along the ridge : in some places ijt is 200 feet high or more. The road parses at lowest point. Below the scarp on the further side is a " tal " or basin about J of a mile long, by 250 yards across. It is cultivated, but there is no permanent water. Its name is Biichi. To this is an abrupt drop of 150 feet. The roads zigzags down it, and is rough, with one bad slippery place. Crossing the tal, again descend by a rough winding track. The slopes are much steeper and more broken on this side of the hill than on the east. At about 2 miles from the crest (2J miles from camp) pass water, at the head of a ravine. After this the track is rather better, but still not good. At about G miles reach the bottom of the hill, and turn down a broad wooded ravine. Two miles of this brings into the Saonar valley, about ^ a mile wide, and almost filled by the shingly bed of the torrent, which is thickly grown with large tamarisk, &c. "Water only in pools. It is drawn away in some places to irrigate patches of cultivation. Crossing Saonar, the hamlet of Gaj is found under the low liills opposite. It consists of some half dozen huts and a bunnia's shop. Camp on a small piece of cultivated land. "Wood, water and camel grazing abundant. A little bhoosa, grain and ata. Also some coarse grass. The people are Sasuli Bnihiiis. A short distance below (south), the Saonar unites with the Bliiniii to form the Gaj river, which then flows away south through a narrow valley., ft is a perennial stream. * There is ample ground for encampment about a mile north of tli(! lifinilet, on the same side the Saonar. Here is a little cultivated land. Monday, 12/h December. — Halted. Trying to change camels, but could get none. Surveying all day. Froze here harder than at Bapri, but still not much. Tuesday, \Zlh December. — Parelo. 13 miles. Mahomed All S.'isuli, wahdera of Gij, reports many robbers on the pass. There are both Sdsi'ilis and Chandias, as well as some others. They plunder single travellers, or. small unarmed parties, and also lift cattle. Up to the time of Nasir Kban Ilnd of Kalat, the local Sasiili chief had charge of the pass, and I undrrstand received an allowance from the Kalat treasury to keep up men. But since the British boundary was drawn along the crest of the range this has been diseonliiiued, and the road is now unprotected, and somewhat unsafe. This together with the track having now got so much out of repair, greatly militates ngaiiii>t the road being used as a trade route. It is by far the shortest road from Central Baluchistan to the railway at Lurkdna, &c., and such trade as there is (includ- ing that of Paiijgur) would come this way, if the road was made good ai-.d safe. Mahomed Ali petitions that the allowance may be restored, and is willing to be responsible for the safety of the pass. The robbers are said to take refuge in British territory. From GAj hamlet, through low ranges, more or less parallel, in a westerly direction, afterwards inclining to south-west; road open and good. At about i miles enter the Rehi or Bhinni, a broad and shallow torrent, here four or five hundred yards across. Its stony bed is q\iite dry, and thickly groAvn with tamarisk. The track keeps to the right hand edge (left bank) of the Rehi for several 10 miles. It tbcQ crossc^s, aid passes inside of au outer ridge of hills, keeping parallel to the course of the torrent. These hills are joined on to a rather higher range on the loft hand side. Ascending here, the road winds among hills, over stony slopes, for half a mile or more. At 10 miles the crest is reached, and then, turning to the left, there is a rough descent through a narrow gap. At 11 miles is a little water in a nala. It is called Ashkani. There is room to camp within a few hundred yards. A very hilly country is now entered. The ranges are steep, but of no great height and have a general arrangement in parallel lines, which is however only observcable when they are overlooked from a considerable elevation. Between them are narrow ravines, and the track passes from one of these to another, generally descending, but with an occasional ascent. All the ravines are full of palm(;tto scrub (pisli), and are sjjrinkled with bushes. The hills are bare, and appear here to be trap, or a very dark coloured, fine grained, sandstone. The higher ranges are, like Kjiro, of grey limestone. The last 500 yards into camp is through a narrow gap, \ip tlic rocky bed of a nala containing water, and the path is rough and diSBcult. With this exception, and a few yards in descending from the kand crossed at 10 miles, the road is a very fair camel track all the way. There is room for a smxU body of troops to encamp. Wood and water abundant, camel grazing tolerable : some coarse grass in the hills. Did not freeze last night owing, no doubt, to sheltered position.* Note.— Farelo. On the hill overlooking the water to south are some small sangars. These were put up by the Sasulis on the occasion of a great Chandia raid in the time of Wali Mahomed father of Ghaibi Khan. It seems the Sasulis had a quarrel with the Galiicho Baliich, allies, or dependants, of the Chandias, the former being the agressors. The feud spread until Wali Mahomed himself took the fleld at the head of his clan and inflicted great loss on the Sasulis. There is no enmitj now-a-days. Wednesday, \ith December.— Viyjv, 5^ miles. This was a )nistake ; the distance being represented as only a little less than yesterday. From camp, instead of keeping on up the nala (west-north-west) turn to the left up a ravine, between the hill where the sangars are, and the white ridge in front. This is going back : slight ascent for i a mile. Descent rather steeper. Then turn to the right, through a gap, and again to the right, going along between tlie white ridge on the right, and a dark ridge on the left. At about 2i miles pass gap in the former, which would seem to be the natural outlet for tlie road from camp, and if the track were taken through here it would save at least a mile. On through the hills, road lairly open, and good all Lhe way. At 4 miles strike the Kolachl nala. In general cbaractcristics it resem- bles the Saouar and Rehi, but is not so wide, and contains a small perennial stream. It Hows to the Gaj, but does not join it for about 35 miles. The greater part of its course is through narrow defiles. Track turns up Kolachi. On^ the loft bank is cultivation about 1000 yards long. The place is called Oharniireh. It is about 17 miles from Gaj (which might be made 16 sec above). Wood, water and camel grazing abundant. A little bhoosa is procureable, and also natural grass; the latter is indifferent stuff, but much better than nothing. ChJlrnareh would make a good halting place. Beyond it is another piece of cultivation of about the same size called Pinju. • Parelo is about 560 feet higher than Gaj hamlet. 11 It lies immediately under the ijreat limestone roek Ilazurbuzi, which is a land- mark alon<^ the whole route from tlie crest of the main range. These two places would afford ample accommodation for troops at any timo of year. There are no people living immediately on the spot, but about 25 to 30 families of Stisulis are in the neighbourhood in summer, and 3 in winter. Chief man Kliair Mahomed, llice and jowari are cultivated ; also wheat or a little barley as rabi crop. Beyond the Kohichi, but at some distance, is a limestone range called Pitakh stretching a long way back,* and like Pinju, visible all over the country. At its base is the Singhiin stream, said to contain a good deal of water. It joins the Koliichi. Thursday, \olh December. — Zidi. 17 miles. Straight up the Koliiehi all the way, through a defile between limestone ranges, averaging a quarter of a mile in width. The tamarisk grows plentifully, and there is also a good deal of high grass : the running stream is larger than at Pinju. It is crossed frequently, quite a dozen times in the course of the march, but is very shallow. At 5 miles, on the left bank (east side), is a patch of cultivation called Pdti. At 6 J (say 7^- from Charnareh) is more cultivation called Lakiir. Here there is room to camp ; wood, water and camel grazing abundant. Exactly opposite is the big rock called Bijiai. Above this small pieces of cultivated ground on either side of tlie defile are pretty frequent. At 9^ miles, on the right bank (west side) is cultivation, and a few mulberry trees, called Kiitagliar. At about Vl\ miles the limestone rauges show signs of coming to an end. Low hills appear in front, and beyond them are plainly visible the high rocks on the further side of the Zidi valley. At 13 J miles cross alow spur from the hills on the right. The Kolachi, after a short twist to the left, makes a bend to the right, or rather comes from that direction. In another mile the hills have altogether receded, and the plain opens out. The Kolachi here shows a very stony bed, over which the water trickles in yarious channels. Tamarisk disappears. At 17 miles reach Zidi. Cultivation, and groups of \mU, on both sides of the stream. The country is now fairly ojieu, but the valley of Zidi, with the hamlets of Zidi proper, is beyond detached Ioav hills in advance. Camped south of the detached hills, on the left bank of the river bed. Elevation 3,000 feet. In this, or lower, Zidi is the residence of Paien Khan, chief of the Siisulis. It is a comfortable looking house near the hills, about 1,000 yard-j east of the stream. There is not much cultivation, and the people comjtlain that they have more water than is sufficient for the land. Grievously hard in this country where the reverse is almost invariably the ease I Rice is cultivated, also wheat and barley, Sic. Large flocks of shoep graze here, and away down to G:ij. In Zidi there are about 100 funiilics altogether : tO of Sasiilis, the remainder Mingals, Bizanjaos, Zohris, &c. The fighting strength of the Sasiilis is com- puted by themselves at 1,000 men, but they are spread over a large tract of country, extending from Khozdar, to the British boundary on the crest of the Kdro range. East they go to Guru and Knrak (Kurk), and west to the Siii4n, beyond whicli is the JCidiani country. That is to snuth-sonth-wpst. 12 The following are the Sdsiili subdivisions: — Ketchizai — The Chief's own section. Mirsizai. Dost izai. Balozai. Juuzai. Ghar. Sopak. Bijarzai. Gazizai. Shekh. Aljarzai — On the Kolachi. Wahdera Umed Ali. Dodazai — About Gaj. Wahdera Mahomed Ali. The Sasuli ghidaus are not of black stuff like those of most nomadic tribes, but of reed screens or mats, the material for which is abundant in the river bed. In Jhalawau generally, mat huts are a common substitute for black tents. Friday, 16//* December. Halted. This appears to be a mild winter. Smart frost every night, but days very pleasant, No rain as yet, though this is the season. Snow seldom lies at Zldi. Saturday, Vlth December. — Khozdar. 17 miles. About 16 direct from camp, and 15 from Zidi proper. Elevation 3,640 feet. First northwards, leaving detached hills on the left. Cultivation, reed beds, and grass, up the river ; also scattered groups of huts. Zidi proper con- sists of two hamlets in which are 3 bunnia's shops. The hamlets are situated on a mound a short distance apart, and are watered by several small streams, some artificial. There are a few mulberry and other trees. Here the plain terminates to the east in a triangular stony flat, bounded by limestone hills. At the apex is a clean gap, through which lies the road to Karak, two marches distant. It is a tolerable camel road, though bad in one place. (See route No. 1). From Zldi projH-r, west-u.)rtli-\vest over plain, at first partially cultivated, afterwards bare and stony. Main channel of the Kolachi lies to right (south), and passes west of the detached hills. The reedy streams of Zidi proper are an afiiuent. Our baggage, on leaving camp, crossed the river Ijed at once and took a straight path over a low plateau. This road, at about 4 miles, joins that from Zidi proper. From the latter place an irrigation channel runs by the side of the road for about 5 miles, and after that the bank of the river bed is followed, so that there is water all along this march. At about 5 miles from Zidi hamlets, strike the river bed, here running at the base of low hills on the south side of tlie valley. Its left bank is thence- forward followed over undulating ground. At about 8 miles are low hills in the plain abutting on the river bed. Before reaching these, cultivation commences along the bank of the stream, alternating with great beds of tall flags and grass. The first flats near the low hills are called Sorgaz. Two and a half miles further on (10^ miles) are ham- lets on the further side called Charbajki. Here the people are Malik, a small clan of about 30 men attached to the Siisulis. Thence is i'l miles to Khozdar fort, over stony uiKtulations, skiFtittg;the low Iving land alonj^sidc the sti-oam. Koad good all the way. Sunday, ISik December. Halted. There is no town or village of Kliozdur. Fort as before described.* It is iiv good repair. The howitzer was removed last year and only the 3 Pr. left. Tt is a very ancient piece, and the carriage apparently unserviceable. There is a well in the fort, about '10 or 50 feet deep, with 2} feet of water, but filth has been thrown in it. The water is naturally good. Fort contains residence of theNaib; his deputy (the Junishin); servants and establishment. Garrison: — about 80 of the Khan's infantry and a dozen sowars. There are 5 bunnias' shops. Around the fort, within a mile radius, are various smallhamlets aggregating about 80 houses. The population consists of 40 families of Gazkis, 20 of KArds, 7 or 8 Nakil, &c. Near the Chukokoh Kand (Bagbwana road) is a hamlet of some ij or 6 houses of Bazgirs. There are 3 blacksmiths in the Khozdar hamlets, and 4 carpenters. The Naib's name is Itobah Khan Choto (Jamot Sindi.) Mondoy, l^th December. — Samaxd. 17 miles. Elevation. 3,930 feet. West-south-west up the glen which branches from the valley at its south-west corner, near the fort. At first over stony slopes, leaving the broad, shallow, and dry nala (one of the two which unite to form the Kolachi) on the left. Steady gradual ascent. Track good. At about 6 miles enter the cultivated plain of Firozabad. Tt is kliusbkawa land, carefully banked to catch the rain water. Pioad leads along the top of the banks between the fields, keeping the south side the plain, which is altogether about 8 miles long, by 2 or 3 across, in the centre. It narrows towards each end, and is enclosed on all sides by hills of considerable height. From about the middle, a road goes northwards to Bagbwana, &c. At about ~l miles pass the spot used as a camping .'ground, and marked Firozabad in the map. It is off the road to the right. Major M. Green, Commandant, 2nd Sind Horse, in bis report dated Kalat 14th .Tunc 1860, says the camping ground is good and dry ; water good and abundant, firewood pro- , curable from bed of river. No supplies. There is no village of Firozabad, but a few small groups of huts are scat- tered up and down the valley. At S miles pass between rocks which are outliers of a spur from the hills on the left. At 9 miles, just to right of the road, is a well SO Icct deep, with o feet of good water. "VA'ithin a mile of this is a narrow strip of low jungle crossed by the road and affording abundant firewood. A small detaehment might conve- niently encamp west of the well. The plain of Firozabad appears to be slightly curved ; convexity to the north. The road is pretty straight, entering it near the northern liills, touching^ those on the south, and again after passing the well, crossing the plain to ite extreme west end, where it enters the hills on the north at about 14 miles from Khozdar. Before doing so the track to Wad diverges, leading on south-soutb- wastup the prolongation of tho valley, which is here divided by a watershed, • See my T^'poi-r on the Muln Pa.ss, &c. 1 R72. 14 notable as the boundary between Firozabud and Nil lands, (*. e., between Mingals and Bizanjaos). Imraediatoly after passing the first low elevation, a broad track is crossed. This is the road from Baghwana to Wad. A confused mass of low bills is now traversed, the road leading long the beds of small nalas. It is a good camei tarck, but would require a little improvement to make it fit for artillery. At about 15 miles tbere is water, a few yards up a small ravine to the right. The place is marked by a huge boulder, or fallen block, on the right of the road and not easily mistaken. Here arc several small springs of good water. There is no good ground to camp, but it does not appear to be worse than Samand in that respect. The spot is called Gi'iheto. Two miles more through the hills, (by which time their farther side is nearly reached), brings to a water hole under a rock, which appears to contain a supply sufficient for two or three squadrons, and the people state it is seldom less than at present. However, on the 27th February 1860, Major M. Green, with a detachment of 2ud Sind Horse, found so little that he was obliged to continue his march to jS'i'il. Camping ground at Samand on low stony flats on left bank of the nala. About 2 battalions and 2 squadrons might find room, but with difficulty. The camping ground is commanded on all sides. Wood scanty, camel grazing ditto; no supplies or grass. There are -i water holes at intervals down the nala beyond the first one. The furthest is \\ miles. By taking advantage of all these a considerable force might encamp. The water is rather saline but quite drinkable. After crossing the watershed, the drainage is to the south-west to the Wad valley, whence it escapes to the Purali. Tuesday, 20th December. — Nal. 10 miles. Elevation 3,575 feet. A bullock kafila passed camp this morning; about 15 beasts, laden with dates, from Nal for Khozdur. On the march met a kafila of i*J camels laden with dates bound for Gandava. At Nal was another kafila of 19 camels laden with dates from Panjgiir, and going to Gandava and Shikarpur by the Mula. Yesierdat/ we met a kafila of 40 camels, laden with dates and wool, from Nal bound for Gandava. Altogether the trade seems to be considerable. Track down nala for 1^ miles, when it quits it to the right, and passing low bills, enters undulating gravelly plateaux sloping away to the plain of Nal. At If miles enter the hollow of the Jaori nala, which comes from the hills just quitted. At 2^ miles leave the Jaori. Descent and ascent very easy. The plain of Nal is now fairly entered upon. At 3J miles another water courses, formed by the junction of the Jaori with a nala coming from the north-east. The plain, though flat, is stony. It is very extensive, being at least 6 or 7 miles across from east to west, and of great length from north-north-east to south-south-west. On the nortli it is closed by hills some miles distant : to the south it appears to narrow after about 10 miles, but is open as far as the eye can reach. The hills in the direction of Wad, or rather west of that place, are very distant. A great portion of this large expanse is gravelly or stony. In the middle a sprinkling of low scrub ; and towards the centre, and on the western side, small isolated tamarisk trees are thinly scattered. 15 At 5 miles pass a low isolated hill, close to right of the road, called LaghoE Ghar. After this some miles of alluvial soil. The land is hanked, as customary in this country, to retain water. At 6^ miles a well on right hand (north) of Toad, 75 feet deep. Nal villages are near the western hills, that where the chief resides heing close under the range, here quite low. He has a large house with a walled enclo- sure, partially defiladed on the side towards the hill, which however quite com- mands it. There are about 20 houses, but some are unoccupied. On the side towards the plain is a small grove of date trees, surrounded by a wall, and there are some low walled enclosures around irrigated fields watered by a spring from the hills near by. Mir Kahira (or Kira) Bizanjao Sirdar, is Naib of Makrin as was his father (Fakir Mahomed) ])efore him. His seat of Government is Kej, and his son Fakir Mahomed i-esides at NiU and manages local affairs. Mir Mahomed Mingal, maternal uncle of the late Kiiradln (with whom he was not on good terms) is closely connected by marriage tics with the N;'il family and is now here. There are some dozen bania's shops at Nal ; about 10 blacksmiths in the valley, and 10 carpenters. The trade of Panjgiir and Khai-dn all comes this way. It consists princi- pally of dates, wool, and ghi. Of the former, about 800 camel loads pass through on an average during the season. A large portion of the trade goes south to Karachi. Both traders and camel owners prefer taking this road to going to Shikarpur and Larkdna. Thebanias because the transit dues (sung) are excessive on the latter route, and the camel owners because their beasts a.re not liable to be seized by the Khan's officials. The journey to Karachi takes 25 days; but the dues (payable to local Chiefs) amount only to Rs. 8 on 8 maunds of wool, and other merchandise in proportion. The hire of a camel to Karachi is Rs. 16.* The journey to Shikarpur is not more than 18 days ; but the dues amount to Rs. 13 on 8 maunds of wool, and the camel hire is 20 rupees. Rs. 4-1-t-O of the dues are levied at Khozdar. The journey to Larkaua by the Arbab route is only 12 days, and the dues, including those of Khozdar, would not amount to more than Rs. S. There is a good deal of khushkawa cultivation at Xal, but very little permanent water. Near the Sirdar's hamlet are one spring and one small karcz. Some miles lower down the valley are three springs called Tobaroh. The southern continuation of the plain is called Haz;irgauji and Ganik. There is a hamlet in tlu^ former, which is some 10 or 12 miles south-south-west. Gar6k is to its east. Ilazarganji has a spring and a karez. Sheep and goats are very plentiful in this country, but there arc not many camels. The Bizanjaos can hero muster 1,000 men. They formerly bore a bad character, but arc now quiet and peaceful enough. The following sections are said to be represented in Ndl : — (1). — Hamalari (the chief.) (2). — Tamarari. • ThJB is certainly what the Nil banias told us, but I believe there is some mistake and that it ifl more 1ft (3)i — TJman'u-i. (4).— Siahpad. (5).— Sajadi. The latter aro of course not Bizaujaos, bat they ackuowledge Mir Kahiras authority. The Bizanjaos are of Iliad origin, at least the chief's family is. Fakir Mahomed professes to be able to turn out altogether 2,500 men without much difficulty. The tribe extends westward into Greshak (Gressia of map, &c.), which belongs to the Sajadis. They also hold a great deal of Kolwah and the country to its south. The Mingals can muster 2,000 men. Nurudin's son Shakar Khan (a small boy) is tlie chief. Mir Mahomed states that 4,000 or 0,000 men can easily be got together and that tlie total number of Mingals is greater. TFcdnesdo!/, 2\st December.— lUlted. Surveying. Wrote to-day to Azad Khan of Khdran stating my intention of proceeding through his eimntry to Panjur— if he had no objection. The letter is carried by one of the Pakir Mahomad's sowars, and I have sent one of our own Baluch Guides with him. They expect to reach Kharan in four days, and returning at once with an answer (written if possible) are to meet us in Besemar about the 28th. Thurtsdoii, 22Hd December.— 'Halted. Surveying. The cultivable ground in the centre of the plain is more extensive than is apparent at first sight. It is all khushkawa. The banks surrounding the fields are high. Jhow bushes grow between the fields, and trees of the same are scattered around. There are altogether about 10 hamlets in Nal, aggregating probably some 120 houses. By far the largest is that known as " the banias' village." It contains 40 houses, including 10 shops, and is about a mile east of of the Sirdar's hamlet, which contains of only 8 or 10 families of his immediate dependants. There is a third hamlet between the two. A short distance beyond the banias' village, towards the centre of the plain, is a small, rude, sarai fort called Kaori. The population of Nal is entirely Bizanjao, and to a great extent nomadic. Ghidans may be seen at nearly every hamlet. Drinking water is for the most part from wells. Supplies are no doubt always procurable for a small force, and the banias can feed large numbers, if previous notice be given. Mutton is plentiful. Wood, water, and camel grazing are abundant. The only difficulty would be fur blioosa, which is likely to be scanty, except after an un- usually good harvest. Plenty of open ground for encampment, but that near the Sirdar's village is nearly all stony. There are tliree water mills : — (1). — Khiirmastan by Tobaroh. (2). — An old one not far from the chief's hamlet under the liill. (3). — Uazarganji ; this has plenty of water. Friday, 12>rd December. — Halted. Surveying. Saturday, 2yh December. — Halted. Surveying. From Nal to Wad is 3 stages of 12 to 14 miles each — (1).— Kolan. (2).— Gwanak. (3).— Wad. There are about 30 wells in the Nal valley ; those at the upper, or north, end are deep,— SO feet or more,— but the water is found nearer the surface as 17 the valley is followed to tlic soutliwanl. Tlicsi; wl-IIs, or at least, somo of lliem contaiu an abundant supjjly (/f water. Sunday, 25/// December. — Tkgau. ^ miles. Itoad south-west over stony plain lo l lie liills. Pass tliri^u^h liiNt spin- at 1.! miles. The second s[)ur is crossed by a low kot;il : descent down a sm:dl ravine, rather rouj;h. A plain is thou entered, enclosed b(tW(;en the s[)urs of Sh;ihsh;in and Kiilcri on the south, and (hose of (juandor, v.V:c., on the n/, IQth December. — Gwaxak. 9 miles. Straight west across the end ol' the plain of Greshak {oi Greshoh: the people here have a trick of dropping the final consonant at the end of names). I'irst half mile through tamari.>k jungle; then a little bit of alluvial soil succeeded by gravelly undu- lations. On the left hand, the open ])lain stretches south-south-west for a con- siderable distance. The cjutre is cultivated, but thero is no irrigated land. Away in the i)lain, about 2 miles off the road, is what looks at a distance like a fort with a tower. It is the deserted hamlet of Tegdb belonging to one Mchnin, but he and his peoi)le now live entirely in ghidans. Tills plac(! is mentioned by Cook as being about 2 miles to right of the Gwarjak road, which diverges from that to Kharau immediately after quitting the T6g:ib camping ground. It was even then (18G0) " uninhabited and falling into decay." 'J'liere was a well near it. Greshak is principally inhabited by the Sdjadi, or Sajdi, who arc supposed to be the ancient Sagetie. Their chief is llaiat Khan, and they are said to muster 1,500 to 2,000 men. "When the Jhalawans are called out, their contingent join the Bizanjnos. At about four miles we crossed a broad track, which is the road from Kalat, via SoUn'ib, Gidar, &c., to Greshak and Gwarjak. (The halting place called Greshak is 13 miles from Tegab,— Cook). 18 At C^ miles passed between the spur of a conical hill and outlying rocks : approaching this the ground gradually becomes more broken. A nala passing through the gap is crossed, and the road continues straight on in the original direction. The hills are now closing in on both sides, and the ascent towards the range in front, visible almost ever since leaving Nal, becomes perceptible. At about 8] miles, after passing a hill on the left, turn off the main road to that side, and passing between small rocky hills, reach a nala, in whoso bed we found small pools of water, united by a little riU. The supply is said to be constant, and to diminish very little, even in summer. The quality is about the same as that of the Tcg:ib. Plenty of room for encampment on right bunk, under the hill Slah. Also on left bank above water. Ground commanded by hills, but country perlectly friendly. No habitations or supplies. No grass. Tire-wood tolerably abun- dant. Some camel grazing. Elevation about 3975 feet. Road good all the way. A rather deep nala is crossed just before leaving the main road, but guns could get over it. Taeschvj, Ttth December.— Kobxk. {Bijar's well.) 6^ miles. (15 from Tegab). Northwards, rising steadily over undulating ground for 1^ miles to foot of pass called the Gwanak Koh Kand. Near this the main road is rejoined. At first there is a short piece of about 1 in 12, in zigzags. Thence the track winds round the base of a high limestone rock on the left. It is mostly very good, but one bit of a few yards is rough. There are two small descents, but the rise is generally steady to the crest of the pass, which is reached at 3^ miles, (about 12 from Tegab). Elevation of crest about 4350 feet : 375 feet above camping ground at Gwanak, and 775 feet above Nal. Here the limestone ridge (Cook's red and white limestone)* has been disrupt- ed, and the gap is filled in by a tumbled mass of blue limestone and trappoid rocks. Descent into a small ravine is easy. Here the path forks: the left hand branch, which is the best, continues down the ravine, and then either turns west by south down the valley for Gundab &c. ; or to the right, round the end of a low spur, to the Kodak camping ground. The other track goes straight to Kodak, across gravel slopes, and through low hills. It is somewhat the shortest, and is a fair camel road. The plain is entered at about 2 miles from the crest of the Kand. It is tolerably extensive, stretching north-north-east and south-south-west ff>r a considerable distance. The hills on the ojiposite side are about 5 miles distant. They are high, but diminish rapidly towards the north-east, in which direction they are seen from the summit of the pass to be overtopped by other ranges as far as the eye can reach. The whole country looks very barren and desolate. Kodak is a good sized piece of alluvial (khushkawa) land, belonging to L-dl Khan Sumaluri No one lives permanently on the spot. The people are here and there iu their ghidans. There is one well, 35 to 40 feet deep, with about 3 feet of tolerable water, not quite so good as that of Gwanak. Tama- risk bushes are scattered about. Ample room for encampment, wood and camel grazing abundant : we procured some kirbee. * Apparently tbu same rock as that at Gharkhai in Pesbin. — See Griesbach's Report on Geology of Soutb Afghanistan (Alcmoirs of Geological Survey of India No. XVIII., Pt. 1). 19 (Major M. Green in ISGO, campod amidst tam;irisk jmr^lc in Ix-d of river. Water rather scarce from two pools.) I'voad good ; but one or two bits of tbeKuid wnuld require makini,' lor i,nins : — still it is a very easy pass. iredneidai/, 2Slh December. — Sokcuil {l/i BcHcmur). IS miles. The ran;,'(; (o we.-t of Kodak is called Mukli. Its crest is tli.; boundary between AzAd Khau's and Kalut territory. The line of diunarealion comes roun 1 eastwards across the watershed at the head of Kodak valley, and then again northwards along the hills. Eeyond Mukh is a sort of valley, drained by a torrent called Dlii'iieri which goes south, down Mashkai. Lai Khan Sumaluri lives in Konis, a few miles to liie soutii-W(,'st.* Kcjclak is claimed by llaiat Khun Sajadiof Grt'shak; L:il KIkiu and the tSumahiniis are, however, in jiosscssion. There are a number of wells in Kodak, altogether 7, ineludiiig the one camped at. No. 1 is north-west by north, about 1^- miles, near a solitary tree towards low white hills. Ko. 2 is north-east by north in a ravine seen stretching uj under a red and white limestone clifT. It is called Lidi. Nos. 3, 4 and 5. Under the hills eastward. There were formerly 2 karezcs here; both are now chokcid, but water is found in some of the upper pits on the daraan-i-koh. No. 6, called Kilabut — " the black spur " — is about 2 miles east-south- cast, under a small dark coloured hill. The positions of these wells were pointed out by an eld Liiri (Miravi) who lives in the neighbourhood, lie states th;it they all contain about as much water as that by which we canqjcd. Tlie pools near which Major M. Green was piteluMl are a mile or two down the torrent, south-west. I. would appear that by dividing the ti'oops a large force would find suffi- cient water at Kodak. Leaving cam]i, strike north-west, and begin to rise gradually over gravel slopes. At 2 miles pass the end of the lirst ridge of low white hills, which arc then skirted for some distance. Ascent gradual, and road good and open. At five miles reach the watershed, broad and flat. Small detached hills lie about, one exac ly on the highest point. Here the road up the valley fri-m Jibri and Gundab comes in. Hence, northwanls, the drainage istothcGazi tonvnt, which goes to the i)lain of Kharan, and the country belongs to Azdd Klum. Descent from watershed is gentle, like the ascent. At 5 J miles turn to left and descend the Uok^r ravine between low brokni hills, the termination of the western range. There is a water hole or two here (U miles), and kafilas occasionally halt. Tuc ravine soon becomes a mere shallow darah between very low undula- tions of conglomerate or gravel. At about 7 miles the nala is left, the track turning up the right bank, and continuing more or less parallel to it, over undulating gravelly slopes. This may 1 e considered the bcgining of Bcsemar valley. Gradually the direction changes to east-north-cast, the arc of a circle having been traversed since • Ho occabioually goes into Korab for a few wt-cks, but his home is at Mat. quitting the watershed. There is said to be no direct track (although the country is quite open) on account I believe of the numerous watercourses which descend from the eastern hilU. At 12 1 miles, cross the broad shallow bed of a nala, pretty thickly grown with tamarisk bushes. It joins the Uokar nala a short distance below. Thence the track leads north>vards, over a bare and elevated, but fairly smooth damin. On the left, all the ground in the centre of the valley, about the main drainage channel, is a good deal broken, and the road keeps away from this on a higher level. At 1-lJ miles pass a mound ^ a mile to left of road. At 15 miles, cross the beds of several shallow water courses, grown with tamarisk. They run together, and the whole are about ^ a mile wide. There is a second small mound near the road on the further side. Beyond these, at about 15| miles, is cultivation (khiishkawa) on the left of the road. At about 17 miles turn abruptly to left, off the main track, and follow a rather indistinct path for a mile through hummocky ground with tamarisk bushes. Th(; camping place is on the bank of a tamarisk filled nala. Water appears, and flows sluggishly forlOO yards or more ; there is none above or below. It is slightly saUiie, whence the name : — S6r-chil signifying salt (or brackish) nala. The water is said to be perennial. Best ground on left (west) bank. Wood, water, and camel grazing, abundant. Tolerable grass procureable. It is called harshon and seems identical with the " loljh" grass of Shorawak. When young it is very good, but the old stuff is useless. The grass of Mai and Maniiti in the Katchi plain, is very similar in appearance, but I believe not the same. No habitations or supplies. Thursday, 2th December. — IIalt(>d. Surveying. The Besemar valley is about 16 miles long by -1 broad. It is drained by theGazi nala, which beyond Drug (10 miles to the north) is joined by the Sajit, and the two form the Gar6k. This pursues a zigzag course, north-west througlx the hills, to the plain of Kharan. At first, Besemar appears a wilderness of gravelly ddmdn and broken hillocky ground, pretty thickly grown with tamarisk. It contains, however, a good deal of cultivation. This is all deperdaut on rain, but the hollows are most carefully bunded, some of the banks being 5 or G feet high, and the most seems to be made of the cultivable soil, which is a rich light loam, closely resembling that of Peshin. The country hereabouts, and to the north as far as Nushki, belongs to Rakshiim Baluch. They live entirely in ghidans, and only come here to plough, sow, and reap. Although the surface of the valley is irregular, troops of all arms could manoeuvre freely, and the road throu:,^h it is good and open. As might be expected from the elevation, the cold at this season is con- siderable, and it f'reezi's hard at nigbt, l)ut the day (if still and not cloudy) is pleasant. The gaz is all dried up, bui, lani and some of the larger tamarisk still affords camel grazing. The valley abounds in game. Obara and ravine deer are extraordinarily plentiful. There are also sand grouse, hares, and a few ducks. On the west are many successive ridges of dark hills. Those next tbe plain appears to be syenite or some trappoid rock. To north-west arc what look 21 like limestone ranges, and as usual these are iiii^li. The wliole forms a moun- tainous belt some 15 to 20 miles tliiek, which sinks ijrulually to tlu; plain of Klidran. I could see nothing like clay slate (eoc(!nc shales), which appears everywhere, from Toha southwards, to form the hackhoue of the hills dividin" the elevated region from the lower country to tlic ue^t. To-day our sowars n-turned from Klu'iraa witli tmr of Azad Klmii's troopers, and a letter from Nd6r6z Khun, eldest s.m of the Sirdar. TLie letter was civil hut unsatisfactory. I was tlK-ri'fore ohligcd lo give iip ;ill hope of seeing Klii'uVin, and determined to make the best of my way to Panjgilr via Gwarjuk. This necessitated returning to Kodak. Prom Besemar tlie route to Khdrau is given in No. VI. Khardn town is reported to contain about 200 houses, and is surrounded by a high and strong wall. There is no ditch. One gat(;«ay on the south side. There is no citadel except a strong tower adj;u;eat to the Mir's residence. There arc other detached towers within the walls. One well in the town. Eight bania's sho])S, and a great many blacksmiths and carpenters. Outside the town is a karez, aifordiug a small supply of water, which is led within the town and used for drinking by the peoph*. It also fertilizes a few lields of lucern, for the Sirdar's horses, and his orchard, which is adjacent to the walls. When Kharan was attacked by the Khan of Kalat (in 1860 ?) his force, some 5,000 or G,000 men, ca:nped on this karez, the u])!)er part of wiiieh is well out of fire from the town. About CO horse (armed with short I'illes of native manufacture) are kept up by the Sirdar. Naordz Khan is now raising a body of the same number of foot, for whom he has breechloaders, apparently sriiders.* There arc two guns on the walls, but the largest is only a 3 or -i pounder. There is severe drought in Khai-'in now. Grain is being imported, as the crops liave entirely failed. The horses of the Sirdar's troopers are in miserable condition. Na6r6z Khan bears a very bad character, and is n.'portcd to be extremely treacherous, a trait unusual in a Balueh. lie is now virtually ruler of Kharan, old Azad Khan being pretty well in his dotage. Xiiordz Klian has quarrelled with his two br-)thers : Amir Khan, the elder, is now with the Khan of Kalat, while the younger, Aziim Klvan, has gone to his father-in-law Huscn Khan in the Garmsel. It is sujiposed one. or both of these will endeavour to oust Nd6r6z Khan as soon as the old man is dead, and the latter is prepaiing for such a contingency, but it is doubtful whether the two younger brothers arc not themselves at enmity. The actual number of Nii6shirw;inis is very small, not more than 200 or 250. Pourtcen men are landowners of more or less conseipience. Tlie rcraaiadcr ai-c mostly in Azad Khan's service. The total disposable force of Kharan is about 2,000 men. The greater number of these can be mounted on camels, conse- quently their movements are extremely rapid. Friday, 'dOth December. — Kodak (Siridb). 11) mih s. Leaving camp we took a shorter line and joined main track at the small mound near tlie lields; thus saving -J a mile. At 7 miles from Sorchil (10.\ fnun Bijar's \\\\\ in Kodak), the road from Kalat by Solivab, Mat, and Gidar, joins in. * Probably obtained fraiu tbe Kild of Maiwand. There ik little doubt tbut u detachment froim Kharuu'iotncd Ayub Khud. :3? The Kalgali Pass of Cook and Malcolm Green is evidently the long narrow darah running up northwards from the upper (south) end of Bcscmar, between the high hills on the east side the valley. The guide knew the road went that way, but had never been along it. He pointed out however the position of Zaiak, which is apparently rather off the direct line, under the hills on the right hand (east) side. For this halving place, and the road to Sohrub, see reports by Major Malcolm Green and Dr. C )ok (18G0). The open watershed at the nort'i-east cud of Besemar looks like a natural road wav. By h;:rc must be the rough track mentioned by Cook as leading from Mat, and occasionally used by travellers to Kharan. Shortly after passing the junction of the Gidar road, a path branches in the opposite direction, i. e. southwards, and is practically a continuation of the former. It leads to Shireza, which is as far from Sorchll camp as Gwauak (about 25 miles) and tlierefore about 23 miles from Zaiak. Here is a small village, fort, and cultivation. The place is in Azad Khan's territory, and the people are Rakhshaul Baluch. Water from a small stream. The road is said to be practicable for camels. The next stage, into the Eaghal valley, is as far as from Ilokar to Sorchil, (12 miles). Boad fair. Thence to Paujgur is 4 stages of 16 to 18 miles each. Boad practicable for camels, but water very scarce.* Camped by the pools at the lower end of Kodak. It is the place called Kodak by Major M. Green, but the proper name of the spot is Siriab, as the water here first appears in the nala. The path diverges from that previously followed at the watershed, and is good and open all the way. Water at Siriiib is abundant fron pools in the bed of the nala, which is pretty thickly studded with large tamarisk. Wood and camel grazing abundant. Some natural grass; and after the harvest, bhoosa or kirbi would be procurable in small quantity. The cultivation is entirely khushkawa, and therefore barley is not to be expected. Between the river bed and the hills to west arc extensive gravelly flats, on which a very large force might encamp. The strip of low ground by the water is soft and sandy. It appears that a generation or so ago, — within the memory of my inforjn- ant, a man of about GO, — there were no less than 10 karazes in Kodak, and the spot was one of unusual fertility in tl is region. In the strife, however, between the Sajadis and the Sumalaris, those have either been allowed to become choked, or have been wilfully filled in by one or other party to prevent their rivals from making use of the in, so tliat there is now no irrigated land in Kodak. Formerly Kodak and Kon'is were held by the Siijdis, but many years ago they were expelled from these lauds i)y Seistan Baluchis The latter were in turn ousted by tlie Sumalaris, as the natural expansion of the latter forced them to find outlets to the southward. The Sajadis, however, as original owners, still maintained their right to the lands, and arc just strong enough to keep the Sumalaris from opening the karezes, without being al)le to regain possession for themselves. * This is what \vc were told at the time ; afterwards, when at Paujgur, information collected from the best available sources made Shireza 11 to 12 stages from Panjgiir. See Route XIV. 23 Probably both parties would not be sorry to comc! to a compromise, and if tluro was a tolerably stroni,' government at Kalat peace would soon be restored. 'J he Suinaliiris of Kodak and Kon'is ^;iv.- a e()ntiiiL,'ent ti Tsuf Khan IMainasani (jMalioraed llasiini) of .lihri, who is tlie great man in these parts. The Si'ijadis, as before mentioned, are allied to tlie Bizanjaos. llie Sumali'iri Sirdar (Lala or L'll Khan,) lives at Mat. The ancient ho:ne of the tribe was Shar6 I, where (and in Sli m'nvak) then- arc still pretty numerous. Hereabouts, and everywhere west of Nal, the people move with their flocks in winter to Kolwali, and other warm districts of Mekran. Of the Bizaujaos, some go to Sind, and some southward as far as Bela. Saturday, ^\st December. — Halted. Pust came in this morning, having been as far as Pir Sultan on tlie Kl.aran road. There is a footpath (said to bo impracticable for horses) straight from Nal to the lower end of Besemar — so the Kosid missed us. Surveying and writing letters. Sitndmj, \st January 1882. — Jaoki. 19 miles. PoUow the river for some distan(!C. It is good going, and (he tamarisk trees are not thick enough to impede the march of troops. Low hills close in on the water course till about 2^- miles, when they cease. The road now quits the nala and takes the left, bank, crossing a stony plain which is the begining of Konis, a valley some 3 miles wide, now seen stretching away to the southward. The Gundiib road takes to the opposite baidc, and also passing over a strip of stony plain, crosses a very low neck connecting a sliort detached ridge with the range on the right (west). This is passed at 6 miles, and from thence to Giindab is about G| miles. Good road, keeping pretty close to the low ranges which here bound the valley on the west. The position of Gundai) is easily recognized by an isolated low black hill, or rather rock, round which the river bed winds. Water is tolerably abundant from a pool. Wood and camel grazing ditto. Ilere the Dhuleri Nala coming from behind Miikh, joins the Kodak Xala (Kodak naju). There is a road up Dhuleri to Besemar, and it is considered the shortest way from Konis, but there is no water before reaching Sorchil, a distance of over 30 miles. What is of more importance, is the fact that there is a road westward to Panjgi'ir (No. IX.), and another by Sliireza tj Kh.'u-.in (Xo. VII). Tiie people located at Gundi'ib are !Mahomad Ilastinis, whose local chief is Yiir Mah6mad. Tlic Jaori road, going along on the left (east) side of the water course, touches it again at 6 miles opposite the detached hill inside of which the Gunddb road passes. Il continues nearly due south over the plain, which is of line gravel, A'ery bare, but Hat and easy to travel over. Ar 12 miles one is abreast of the Gi'mdab rock, distant about 1^ miles. O.i that side, the valley is seen to be bounded l)y some five or six rocky ridges, much lower than the hills to north and south, iietween which they form the connecting link. Beyond the ridges is a plain of some size, also called Konis. On the cast, the liills sliuttins in tho valley, and separating it from Greshak, are quite low. At 13 mile.'., cross the road IVoni Greshak {i. e. from Nal and Wad) to Gundab and so to Sakuu Kalat or Shireza. At 10 miles, pass, on the right hand side of the road, khushkawa cultivation called Madargdn. There is water in the low hills to left, but it is some distance oir. People here are, I believe, Sajadis. Tlicnce, bending left, enter low hills, outliers of the broken chain to east. Although there are elevations of various height all round, the road is tolerably open and flat. At 19 miles cross a broad wr.ter course, apparently the main drainage channel of Greshak. Banks easy. There is no water here, but in the next nala, a few hundred yards further on, are small pools, and the gravelly plateau between the two makes a very tolerable camping ground, sufficient to accommo- date several battalions. To the east, is a short, but high and precipitous, ridge, the end of which is turned towards the spectator; beyond this again are lofty liills forming the main range. To tbe west are lower hills, on the further side of which, and about a mile distant, is the plain. To the south, beyond the nala, are more hills thiough which tho roi.d is continued. Water rather scanty. Firewocd tolerably abundant. No camel grazing in the immediate neighbourhood. Ko permanent habitations, here or anywhere near. The spot is a mere halting place, and one not much used. Troops had better halt at Gundab, (12^ miles from Kodak Siriab), and march thence to Jibri, 15 miles. The road leads along the valley and is perfectly open and easy all the way. (See Route No. VIII). A road leads from the Ja6ri camping ground into Greshak through a gorge. Major M. Green says the " pass is reported rough." This is not the main road from Nal to Gwarjak ; the latter goes straight to Jibri. Slight rain last night. Mondoy, 22nd January. — Jibri. 9 miles. Cross the nala in which is the water supply and ascend it for a few yards; then turn to right (S.) through the hills*. The path soon leads into a darah, as the main and outer ranges diverge. The darah gradually widens until about 4 miles from Jibri when the inferior ranges on the right (W.) cease, and a wide stony plain is entered forming a part of the general valley. Over this the road leads straight to Jibri, the palm trees of which are visible at a considerable distance. It is good all the way. The main route from Nal to Gwarjak joins in here, having passed the hills by the " Bovida" defile. See reports of Major M. Green and Dr. Cook (1860). At Jibri is a large square tower on a low inound. It is described by Dr. Cook, and belongs to Sirdar Isiif Khan Mahomad Ilasani, a powerful chief, lie lives without, as the death of several of his children in the fort, has caused that place to be shunned as a residence. It is, however, kept in tolerable repair, and is quite capable of making a good defence in local warfare. The Sirdar himself and his peo])le live in ghidans ovjiimjn'is. The frame work is of tamarisk, tlie walls and thatch of the inevitable ^jz^sA (palmetto). They are not plastered with mud, and art decidedly inferior to the' kirris of Sbora- • See Reports bj Major M. Green aud Dr. Cook. I went back to survey, and thenco straight down tho valley. 25 w;ik (<) u'liicli they licar sonic rcscMnblanco. Ilerc, however, as all over the JJiilucliistrni lii^lihuul, Lhc pcoplu inliiiitcly prrlV-r tlicir ghidans, or talx'madcs, to any house, declaring the former to l)i' wanner in winter and et)oler in summer. There are a good many date trees at Jibri, elust(!ring pretty thiekly round the tower, and scattered away to thesoutli for a mile or more. At the western base of the mound is a jdantation of young fruit tn^-s (p nngranates.) Beyond this, stretching up and down the valley for pcriia[)s a mile each way, is cultiva- tion, the inam land of the Sirdar. It is watered by two small karez streams and rice is grown. There is also a little lucerne near the village. On the eastern side is a bare stony plain up to the base of the high hills. At the present timi; there are about GO lints in the neighbourhood of the fort. There appears to be jilenty of ground for eneampincnt. Water is abundant, also camel grazing. Firewood tolerably plentiful. Grass from the hills. Bhoosa would be procurable in small quantities after the harvest, and some trifling amount of wheat and rice. Supplies, however, could be collected here by previous arrangement. Isiif Khan is one of the most important Sirdars in Jluilawan. The nominal muster of Mahomed Hasauis is 18,000, Imt the trilie is very widely dispersed, and many may l)e found as far away as Sharod and Shorawak. With Kd Khan Sumalari's contingent, Isuf Khan might muster 5,000 men ; however he is very much thought of, and his " raj" said to extend over the whole country. Per- sonally, the chief is a rather fine looking, quiet man, of about 50. He inform- ed me that the Mahomed Hasanis came originally from Kirman and Shiraz, and that his family had been settled at Jibri for seven generations. " Formerly," " he added, the Ahmadzais* showed us great attention, and my forefathers had " large estates. Now however the Kliilii has seized everything, and though my " raj " may be great, my land does not extend to more than a rifle shot from my " tower." Isiif Khan lias never been in rebellion against the Khan of Kalat. Jibri is not considered as forming pait of Mashkai, though it is one and the same valley. The former is Isuf Khans inam, butthe latter is all crown land. Opposite Jibri is a rather conspicuous liill, jutting out into the valley : it is called Shekh. The big hill on the east side is Mahmai. Tuesday Zrd January. — liixu. (1,325 feet.) 7. V miles. South west down the valley. At about a mile from the fort, is a small pond, the tail of one of the karezcs. Here is boundary bctw(>en Mashkai and Jibri. Beyond, is a grove of date palms, and some cultivation. Thence the road keeps along the western base of an isolated ridge, and when this ceases, enters on a stony tract fornied by the detritus brouglit down the numerous water courses of the easteru hills. It is thickly grown with pish, which here covers an area of several square miles. The pish is mixed with tamai-isk. The road is good, over slaty gravel. Some date groves in front show the existence of water. At about 6i miles cross a small irrigation-channel. This is from a karez called X6kjo (see Major M. Green's report). On the right is cultivation. A little furtlier on, a few hundred yards to left of the road, is a mound, with the remains of a fort. It btdongs to Yar Mahomed Keliar, whose tomaii of pish huts was visible at no great distance to the south east. To north • Ahmad::ali. Thu ruling family at Kalat. cast was auothcr toman of Kchars under Shaf i Maliomcd. These tomans are nearly always in the same places. In very severe weather only, do they move off, and take shelter under the eastern range. At 7^ miles Hind ; a karez, cultivation and date trees, resembling K6kjo. Wood and water abundant ; also camel grazing ; grass procurable. Ground for encampment would no doubt be found without difficulty on the cultivable land. The site would depend on the crops. The valley has now reached its widest, and is about 10 miles across, but the cultivable land seems to be barely a mile in width. Wednesday, Uh January.— Gxskv.. (4.,120 feet.) 10 miles. South-west towards a conspicuous isolated hill. Good road over the same slaty gravel. Tamarisk, pish, and other shrubs, with a few small trees, are pretty thickly scattered over the country. At 4 miles the hill is reached, and the track runs parallel to its base. As soon as it is passed the road divides ; that leading to Gajar, bends half right, while the other leads straight on to Parwar and Gwarjak.* The Gajar road soon gets among the broken alluvial ground in the neighbourhood of the river bed. The cultivation becomes almost continuous and groups of huts are met with. At about 6| miles a channel of the river bed is crossed ; banks low and easy. The road continues to wind through very broken ground, among numerous half silted up channels. Tamarisk and other bushes grow thickly on all sides. At 9^ miles reach, and cross, the main channel of the river bed. It is broad and shallow, the width being about 150 yards. A small perennial stream runs in it. Here begin the date groves of Gajar, both banks of the river being thickly planted with these trees for a considerable distance. On the right bank is a hamlet called Mandi Mach {mack — a date tree). Thence through the date trees for half a mile to Gajar, which is a poor looking village of some 30 or 40 permanent huts near the base of an artificial hillock crowned by a ruined fort. The people here are Kehars ; there are altogether about 100 families scattered up and down the banks of the river. These Kehars call them- selves Baluch, but are I believe Jats. They are a poor harmless race, and are exclusively cultivators, farming the lands of Mashkai which btdong to the Khan. By religion they are Dahis (or Zikars), as are also the Sajdi Brdbuls. Cook gives an account of their tenets and morality which I suspect has been derived from Mussulman accounts, and to be much exaggerated. Their lan- guage is Mekn'ini Baluch. All Mashkai is Mahomed Hasaui country, under Isiif Khan of Jibri, and the pastoral people are mostly of that tribe. The fort of Gajar was built by Nasir Khun 1st of Kalat. It is now entirely dismantled, but the stout rubble walls, to 8 feet high in most jilaces, and the steep sides of the mound, also of rubble, still make it a very defensible redoubt in native warfare. The palm trees, however, grow close up to the base of the mound on the cast side. * This hill, and the next detached otic, which is opposite Gajar, arc called Laki. The one above mentioned is that which Dr. Cook visited in seai-ch of the remains of an ancient city. 27 There arc no banias at Gajar, aud no watcrraills. Corn is ground by hand. Barley was sold at It seers for the rupee, wheat at 10|- seers. The cost of grinding,' is consideialile. In summer, prices would no doubt be much lower. SuflBcient grain is grown in the country to feed a considerable force l)assing through, but previous iu)tice would have to l)e given. The daman of the western range comes right down to tiu; village. There; is any amount of room for encampment, but the ground is stony. Wood, water, and cumel grazing abundant. Grass of the sort called kdnddr is abundant. The water of the river is slightly saline. Thursday y blh January. — Ualted. Post in tliis morning. Writim^ letters, &e. Obliged to change canu'ls here, and there is .some difTieulty in getting them. Wednesday, Gth Jaintari/. — Halted. Surveying. The river channel is 100 to 200 yards broad. Beds of high reeds and flags* fringe the low shelving banks. The running stream only begins about 1 1 or 2 miles above Gajar. Higher up there are occasional j)0(ds. It is called the BhuleH. The Chiikar is the Kodak nula. The water is drawn olf for irrigation, but only a very narrow strip so benefits. However, there is a good deal of fine khushkawa land, carefully banked, and the water of the hill torrents is mostly utilized. The date groves are almost continuous, ou both sides, to Parwar about G miles below. Their produce is abundant, but of inferior quality. Pomegranates are also grown pretty extensively. In flood time the Dhuleri completely fills its bed, overflowing the low cultivable land, and some- times coming right up to the base of the mo\uid on which the old fort is built.f The Naib of the district is Abdul Kariin, Mirwi'iri Sirdar, of K61wah. He lives at Bedi, close to Awaran in K6lwali. The .I;'uusliiu (one Bakshia Khana- z;'id) has a house here, and one at Parwar. On the opposite side of the river, about a mile distant, is a Xambanini hamlet connected witii a village of the same tribe lower down. It has about 10 huts. Two miles from Gajar fort is a hamlet of about 20 huts of Keliars. It is situated at the base of a low range of hills, which extends from about 1^ miles above Gajar to Parwar, or about seven miles altogether. They run parallel, and close to, the river bed the whole way, and the hill drainage comes through them by three or four rather narrow gaps. These hills have rounded summits and easy slopes, and are traversable in every direction by horsemen . The Kambar;ini village (called Bdnsar) is about 1 miles below Gajar on fh(! same side (right bank). It contains about 30 huts,J aud a conspicuous fort, with a tower or high building in it. Perched as usual on a hillock, it stands out against the palm trees as approached from the east, and is quite a feature in the landscape. Every village, or cluster of villages, has one of these forts, intended as a place of refuge for the people in case of attack, but otherwise left empty • Pig are found in these. t The floods occur in .Tuly or August. The Dhuleri goes by Mnngnli to Aw.iran and is the head of the Hingol River. X k njajority of the huts lire made of reeds and pish ; but sonic arc of rnlihle, mortared or plastered with mud. The wood of tlic date i>alin is used in building. ■28 and uuinhabitcd. Tliey aro built uf rubble, plastered with mud, and no doubt serve well the purpose for which they are constructed. The mud is very light coloured, and at a distance buildings plastered with it have the appearance of being white-washed. The chief of the Kambarauis is Mahomed Pazl,* and their lands are inam. A short distance below Kambanlni, and opposite to the termination of the low hills on the left bank, is a Mirwari village known as Midn Kalat. Farwar is also at the end of the low range, but on the east side, close to their base, and its fort is on a knoll, one of the last spurs of the hills. Parwar consists of two villages, known as Jagasur and Buturu. They are mostly inhabited by Mirwaris, and with the third village mentioned above (Mian Kalat), and scattered groups, there arc upwards of 300 huts of that tribe. The local chief is Pir Mahomed, son of the late Shahak. Ghiilam Mahomed is an important man and head of a section. There is a little inam land, but most of it is held by the Mirwaris from the Khan. From N6kjo downwards, the valley may be considered as really well wooded. Except the date palms, however, there are no trees of any size; but small mimosas, tamarisks, &c., are in thousands, and dot the stony ddman nearly up to the base of the rocky hills ; while the pish covers many hundred acres. Thursday, 1th January.— Rslie(\. Despatched post. Surveying. Wheat and barley ripen here in April, The barley about a fortnight earlier than the wheat. Second crops are rice and jowdri. These are reaped three, or three and a half, months after the first crops. About the same time the date harvest comes on. It is at this season that heavy rain and thunderstorms are expected. The winter rains are comparatively light, and probably uncertaiu. Snow falls in the valley occasionally, but does not lie. The maximum of the thermometer in the shade, since we have been here, has been about 78°, and the minimum about 36°. In summer the heat is great, but of course there are no hot winds. The people deny the unhealthiness ascribed to the place by Cook. It is acknowledged however, that strangers always fall ill in summer ; but this may bo ascribed in great part to their over-eating themselves with fresh dates, of which both Brahuis and Baliich are inordinately fond. At Gajar are 30 blacksmiths, but they are not working now as they have no iron. One leather worker here, and one at Parwar. One bania is resident at Parwar, but at harvest time many visit the valley from Kalat and elsewhere. The hill in the western range (for which, as usual, there is no general name) exactly abreast of Gajar, is called Kiiki. There is a water in a big ravine, known as Kuki spring. To north of the hill is a foot-path, called Jani, across the range. It is practicable, but difficult, for horses. The descent is into a narrow darah, o\\ the further side of which is another range which cannot be seen over from the crest of this(?) Beyond that again is Rdyhdi, a large valley, but a man on foot cannot get there in one day. Beyond llaghai is Rashlcdn,\fh.ic\i is bounded ou the further side by a high range of the same manner. * Ho lives at Kaliit. 29 lliiii;li;ii and Rasliki'm boloji},' to Azatl Khan. Rasbkan or llaksliiln is divided from Gitciik l)y a raiiy(.' which is Azad Kh/m's boundary. Tho Gandi'ip road goes down llaghai and into the Gitchk vaUcy. The direct road from Kahit by Shireza also leads, by Kapar, into lli'ighi'u and in Gitchk they both meet the road from Gwarjak tt) I'aiijgur.* Friday, Slh January. — IIalticd. Camels at last turned up this eveniiii,', Isiif Khan's sowars having Ix-eii scouring the country for 4 days to get them. It is absolutely necessary to carry supplies for the whole distance between this and Panjgur- — 11 camel stage's- Although I have had time to take a tcderably good look at all the ground in the immediate vicinity of Gajar, I can Ihid no spot which would make a really decent camping ground. The l)est spot is probaldy the stony flat, south west of the fort ; but this is broken by small nalas. The low ground near tlie river is i)retty nearly always under crops of some sort. Troops arriving just after cither of the harvests, say the latter end of Ai)ril or August, would l)e abh: to utilize this land, but not otherwisi'. All the uncultivated ground is either very stony and jungly, or broken, or all three. Cloudy to day, and slight rain before; sunset. The clouds came up with a light south west wind, as on the 1st. Tlic northerly winds drive away the rain. Saturday, 0th January.— Gwaiuak. 10-^- miles. (2,96 fc feet.) Slight rain last night, but the morning was fine, though a southerly wind and clouds coming up betokened wet before long. Followed the right bank of the river bed. The road leads along the edge of the date grove and cultivation. On tlie right is the stony daman stretching up to the base of the hills about 3J miles distant. Soon after passing the last date trees cross rising ground. A loM' elevation is between the road and the river. Beyond this is cultivation, across whieli the track leads when irrigation operations are not going on. Otherwise it must be avoided by a detour over rather stony and broken ground. As far as this the country is open from the river up to the base of the eastern range ; but from 1 miles below Gajar to beyond Gwarjak (here is a mass of inferior hills, sinking lower and lower from tlie main range, and filling up tho whole of the intervening space. In the neighbourhood of the riverthey are of no height and can be traversed by cavalry. At about () miles pass the village of Biiusar, which, with its date groves and cultivation, lies between these low hills and the river. It has been liefore described. The fort is rather dihipidated, but not so much so as most, and lies a few hundred yards to left of the road. Thence pass over a very low spur to Miiu Kalat, which is reached at 7 miles. It is similarly situated to Bausar. The fort is quite ruinous. The road here approaches close to the river for a short distance. It then passes over stony, and slightly rough, ground. On the opposite side of the river is Parwar, almost hidden l)elund the low hills on that side. Below Parwar, but rather back from the river, is a hamlet and date groves called Konero. It contains about 15 huts of ^Vlirwaris. On the right bank the low hills trend back for some distance. * Wo saw Raghui, Gitcliki aud' RashkAa iu our waj to Panjgilr. Sets Diary farther on, and also Map. 30 On the left of the road is cultivation. This ceases at about 8^ miles, and its termination marks the limit of the Khan's territory, and the commencement of the little district of Gwarjak which beloui^s to Azad Khan. On the other side the river, hut some little distance l)elow (about due south), two date trees growing together are the boundary land mark. The river is now bordered, first on the right, and afterwards, as it winds, on the left, by large reed beds. At 9 miles is the commencement of a line of conglomerate bluffs, between which and the river the road jiasses for half a mile, crossing two water-courses. At 9| miles cross the river bed diagonally. It here makes a rather shari) bend to the westward. Gwarjak is situated in this bend ; the fields and date groves on the left bank, the village and fort on the right, the former under the conglomerate hills, the latter perched on a semi-isolated bluff, scarped on all sides. It is about 120 feet above the river bed, and of the construction usual in this country, perhaps rather larger and better, but by no means in perfeot repair. That is to say the outer wall is dilapidated and looks low, but the keep seems in good order. It has a double tier of loop holes. There is no path to the fort. People are drawn up and let down by ropes. Green says there is a well in the fort. Nasir Khan Ilnd tried to take it and failed ; but as it is actually lower than other bluffs above, and small hills below, it is probable that even mountain guns would be able to render it untenable. Aziid Khan has a Kotwal in charge of the fort, by name Basham, and with him are a few (jhuldms, but no regular garrison. The village consists of about 30 huts of Naoshirwani Balueh, the rais or chief man among whom is Gdmguzar. No bannias now reside at Gwarjak, though there were some a year or two back. There is a family of goldsmiths here, who are also blacksmiths. The best camping ground appears to be half a mile south, on the left bank, but, as at Gajar, there is no very good place. There is some cultivated groimd on the right bank, which would do, if clear of crops.* It began to rain about 2 o'clock and there were several smart showers during the afternoon. It also rained in the night. The best way from Gajar to Gwarjak is to take at once to the river bed, and follow it to Mian Kalat whence the road is the same as that given above. Artillery would keep to the river bed all the way, and it is but little longer. Both roads are good for laden camels. Wood, water, camel grazing and forage, are abundant. No supplies, except small quantities of barley and wheat. Sunday, lOih January. — Tank. (3764 feet). 9| miles. Pollow the river bed for about a mile and a half, when the road ascends gravelly plateaux on the right bank. Over these it passes for 4^- miles in a south-south-westerly direction, while the river bed keeps away to the south. The ti'ack ascends and descends over the undulations of the plateaux, which are broken, and traversed by water-courses from the hills. The road however, is good. Soon after quitting the river an immense number of (7rt?(r-&«s^«s are passed. In some places the walls are 5 and 6 feet high, and all those which are visible from the road appear to have been, as usual, terraces, or bunds, to retain * Major M. Green appeara to havo camped here. Ibih ilarch 1860. 31 r;iin water for agricultural jjurposrs. If so, the black, sterile, and ru-^^'cd plain must tlicii have Ixhmi well cult i\ alcd. It is, liowcvcr, difficult to iniayiuc that such could ever have \tvr\i the case. This appears to he tlu; ruiueil eity nientioiu'd hy Cook. At G miles descend from the jjlateaux into the valley, or hollow, of the Tank steam, which issues from a delile al)out a mile to the west. Tank means lan//i, and the stream is so called from the deliles throui,'h which it runs. Here itshed is (piite as large as that of the Dhuleri. The flow of water is iijreafer, and its valley is thickly wooded with tamarisk, and also with trees of larger growtli. llunning on, ahout south-east, it passes through low hills and joins the Dhulcri at 3 miles from where it leaves the hills.* JBeyond the point now reached the country is quite new and unexplored. The road turns up the Tank, through tamarisk jungle. The stream is crossed at l^ miles, and at 7^} one is fairly within the defile. The hills on either side are of considerable height, that to right is called Bamhakiin and the other Doraski.f These are part of the range hounding Mashkai, &e., on tlie west, l)ut are of sufficient size to be noticeable as far off as Jihri, over 30 miles in a straight line. The delile winds between spurs of the above. Its average Avidth is about 50 to 60 yards, and the heights in imme- diate proximity arc comparatively inconsiderable, though often steej) and craggy. The stream is crossed frequently, Ijut is quite shallow, with gravelly bottom, lload an easy camel track. Camped at 9-J- miles on a iewrf or plateau on the left bank. AVood and water abundant. Camel grazing rather scanty. Grass from the hills abundant. The water is better than that of the Uhuleri. General direction of this march S. S. W. Mondcnj, \llh Januari/.— KvcilK\s. (J.,057 feet). 8-^- miles, followed the river bed. The pass is of the same general character. At lirst the hills are higher, afterwards, as the main range is passed, they are of less elevation. Average breadth of the pass about 50 yards. Tlic running stream is rather increased than diminished in volume. In the 3rd and 4th miles (5th and 6th from camping ground at entrance of pass) the fords are comparatively deep, being 2 feet in places, but the cross- ings arc all easy, except one at about 3 miles, where there are large stones under water on the landing side. Immediately after this, a small l)ut rather high fjcui (plateau) is crossed. Ascent and descent steep, hut not difficult. Generally the path keeps fo the river bed, only leaving it occasionally for a few hundred yards to make a short cut over good ground. Here and there rough slaty rocks arc passed over, but for the most part the track is good. However, the accumulative difficulties of water and rocks, thuugh iusigni- ticant ill themselves, make this march somewhat trying to laden animals, quite as much so to mules as to camels. At 7 miles (0 from camp at mouth of pass) is the halting place called Gw;'ink ^Iiisht (a meaningless name from gicduk, a shout : musfif, a fist or • Tho iunctioti is called Taitk-iufbah, i.e., "mouth of the Tank." It waa sabseqnentljr risited. t Svirgarh (?). 32 haadful). Here is stony ground on the right bank sufficient for two battalions to encamp, but it is rough and inconvenient. There is, however, an abundance of camel grazing in the shape of tamarisk, for which reason it is one of the regular camel stages. Went on a mile and a half to Kuchkdn, where there is also good camel grazing. After GwankMusht, numerous willow trees grow along the sides of the pass, and high grass begins to fringe the edge of the stream in places. Wood and water abundant also hill grass of good quality, called f/urkdo. There is plenty of room in this halting place, but the ground is uneven, stony, and grown with tamarisk, A flat below grown with willow trees, and also part of Kuchkin, would be probably more convenient.* The mass of hills traversed since entering the defile consists, as usual, of parallel ranges of greater or less height, running north-north-east and south- south-west. Formation chiefly clay slate, at least such I should call it, and Dr. Cook gives it the same name, but it is identical with the eocene shales of the Kwajha Amran and Sarlat ranges, of which these hills are in some sort a continuation. Trap intrusions are however very frequent. The higher hills are often banded by dark trappoid rocks, and the lower ranges entirely composed of the same. The shale beds also are constantly seen to be crushed and distorted* and converted into metamorphic rock. The hills extend far, both to north and south ; in the latter direction they arc said to divide K61wah from Kej.f On the left bank of the stream, i.e., to north, the country belongs to Kharan ; on the other side to the Gitchkis ; but the whole is a common (summer) grazing ground for Mahomed Hasanis, Sajdis, Gitchkis, &c. At Kuchkan were some huts of Kehars, who possess a herd of buffaloes which are kept for making ghi. These Kehars have to pay a tenth of the increase of their cattle to Azad Khan. The latter also takes sung, or toll, from all who pass this way. The general direction of this march is west. As might be expected, signs of high floods in the defile are not infrequent. Drift wood and dead trees show that the river bed is sometimes filled to a height of 8 feet. The people say that a rise of 20 feet has been known. This is probably an exaggeration, but 4 feet rise would completely fill the cliannel, and render the pass altogether impracticable. It must be borne in mind that the stream appears to have a very large catchment basin. The season for floods is July and August. Cold north-east wind to-day has entirely blown away the rain. Tuesday, IWi January. — Pasut Kou Camp. (4,191 feet.) 9 miles. Meant to have gone on further, as also yesterday, but the camel men are troublesome, their beasts being in bad condition. As it was, the difliculty of surveying gave mo a very fair day's work. From Kuchkan the hills begin to be decidedly lower, and the country shows signs of opening out. The river bed increases in width to 100 yards or more. In fact the road is now hardly through a defile. At about 5 miles is a sort of valley filled only by low ridges and hillocks. • I think " kucbkau" means willows. t Tbia is not the case. Kdlwah and Ktij arc continuous, i.e., divided only by a watershed. See diary further on. 33 Here, on the left hank, is sonu; cultivatioji and ahout 20 huts of Sajdis. The place is called Tasht Koli i.i'. " Ijcyoiid the hills," rather a misnomer. Ahout a mile and a half heyond this enter another belt of hills of no great elevation but of considerable lliiokness. The defile by which they are traversed is about 60 to 80 yards wide, but the heights on either hand (mostly clay slate) are easily accessilde. The kaQla halting plaee known as Tasht Koli is within these hills, and it tliercforc belies its name. It is (as usual) on a bent, or flat, and is on the right liank of the wjiter-course. There is room for a battalion to encamp, but the ground is sandy and stony, commanded by hills on all sides, and generally unsuitable. AVood, water, camel grazing, and hill grass (giirkao) abundant. At Tasht K(5h hamlet is certainly the best place for troops to half, and it might be reached in one march of about 10 miles from the entrance cf the detile. It would, however, bo rather a trying stage to baggage animals. 'J'hc road from Kiichkan is good all the way. General direction north- north-west. To-day was line and warm. Wednesdai/, Vdth January. — Sakan Kalat. Elevation, 4845 feet. 380 feet higher than Gwarjak. 10^ miles. The road winds through the hills for more than 2 miles, after which they become low and broken, llere, immediately after i)assing through the higher ridges, is the junction of tiie llaghai iiala with the Gitchkl stream. When united they form the Tank. The former comes from the north ; the latter from the west, and is much the larger. The running water comes down the Gitcliki while the Eaghai is dry or nearly sf». At the junction ascend left bank of the Gitcliki, and passing through thick tamarisk jungle for TOO yards, cross a small tract of uneven country surrounded by low hills. This cuts off a bend of the stream. At Z\ miles pass irrigated fields and a few huts of Kctclii Sajdis on the left bank of the Gitchki. The place is called Darkavi. Beyond this the river bed is entered and followed for a short distance through the hills. It is then finally quitted, and the path ascends a branch nala to the right (north-west) through broken ground and low elevations. At about 5 miles is a long bank from which issue numerous saline springs. The ground is covered Avith coarse gi'ass, and soft fiom the quantity of water. This place is called Sand. Just above the bank is a very low ridge, or line of hillocks, and a few hundred yards further is another. On gaining the crest of the latter a wide plain suddenly appears, extending from one's feet to a considerable range in front, about 8 miles distant, and to right and left (north-east and south-west) for a great distance. As usual this plain has no one name. To the north is Ragliai and beyond that is Kapar, which is about the watershed. These places belong to Khdnin. Uaghai does not come down quite so low as the road. The boundary is the Ahor nala which issues from the opposite hills nearly due north of Sand. There is no cultivation in Eajrhai nor are there any permanent inhabitants. It is a grazing ground for Mahomed llasanis, Sajdis, Itakshanis, &c. Next to Ki'ighai and immediately in front is Ivashdu A'p which belongs to Sajdis. This is a small tract. 84 South of Kdshau A'p is Gitchk.* Beyond the hills is Rashkan, part oi" Kharau territory. The range is known generally as llashkan-na-lat. Erom the ridge the descent to the plain is only a few feet. At first the path lies across rough ground thickly grown with grass in high tussocks. This is evidently pretty often flooded. Beyond are shallow dry water-courses in which are a few water-holes. Here is Eashan-ap halting place. Afterwards an expanse of fine gravel and sand is entered. This, often rising into low undula- tions, forms the greater part of the plain. It is ])retty thickly sprinkled with hahul trees, tamarisk, and other shrubs. At about 2 miles are low hillocks, on the left. There are others further off on the right. At 2^ miles strike the well marked track which comes down through Eighai from Gandup and Shireza. This is followed for a short distance, and then, as Sakan Kalat becomes visible, a straight line is taken to that place. Sakan Kalat is small rude fort placed as usual on a mound. It is of irre- gular rectangular form, the longest interior diameter being about 32 yards. Walls of rubble 8 to 10 feet high and 1 foot to 18 inches thick. They are in tolerable preservation, but the huts built, according to custom, against the walls inside are ruinous. A very small doorway on the south can only be entered by stooping. There is a well in the interior of the fort. It is about 50 feet deep, and there are two or three feet of rubbish at the bottom. If this was cleared away there would be plenty of water. On the west side of the mound is a patch of cultivation watered by two small karezes,! and scattered about are some 20 huts of Mahomed Ilasanis, who are " bazgars" of the Sajdis or Sdkd to whom the land belongs. Camping ground good ; it lies west and south-west of the fort, between cultivation and low rising ground. Wood and water abundant, also barshdn grass. Camel grazing rather scanty. Fine clear day. This place, as might be expected from its high and open situation, is perceptibly colder than Mashkai or the Tank defiles. We have now entered Mekran. Thursday \Uh January. — Halted. Surveying. Warmer to-day and slightly cloudy. About 1. miles south-west are 20 families of Sasiilis. The people here- abouts do not migrate, there being grazing for their sheep all the year round. A few llakshdnis, however, go down to the plain of Kharan. There is no otlier cultivation than that at Siikau Kalat in the whole valley. In fact there is surprisingly little ground capable of cultivation, and what there is, is poor thin soil. Friday, Voth January.— SxRAV (Sir-i-ab). Elevation, 4521 feet. 13 miles. Southwards from Sakan Kalat, over the gravcdly plain studded with babtil, &c., for about 3 miles, when the main road is struck, and followed in a south westerly direction. It leads along the south-east side of the Gitchki valley. On the left, but some little way off, are hills, at first almost impercep- tible but rising higher as they recede. To the south they begin to run east and west instead of north east and south west. On the right, about 6 miles distant, is the Rashkan range. A good deal of the intermediate ground consists of low, bare, gravelly undulations. • It is from this place the Gitchki clan derives its name. t Formerly there were more, but the others have long since been choked. 36 Al'tor miles tlio frees &c. ceas(«, and from thence is an almost perfectly open plain of lino gravel and sand rising very gradually but steadily. The drainage from the hills appears to spread so much that the water-courses (running from right to left) are hardly perceptible. At about 11 miles a line of jungle, crossing the front and coming round to the left, shows the course; of the Gitehki nala, last seen in the low hills before reaching Sand. The main track is now quitted, as the water is below the road, i. e. to the left front, and a straight line taken to the halting placis. Camped on the nala, which was in several channels, amid broken, sandv, and rather thickly wooded ground. The water is iu pools here and tlicre; it is stagnant but sweet. There is apparently pleaty of it ;* and wood, camel grazing, and barsh6n grass are abundant. The best i)laee fur the encampment of troops would bo beyond the -watercourses. Passed to-day some Mahomad-Uasaui she[)lierils, and a katila of about 25 Sumalari camels laden with ranjgur dates. Excellent road all the way. Saturdaij, l^th January. — Sakgwaz. Elevation, 4646 feet, 14| miles. Southwest over the t^ame open, gravelly, and gently rising plain. The track is now about in the centre of the valley. At 5 miles is a well, near, but not noticeable, froni the road. At 7 miles, about half a mile to left of the track, is a mound, crowned by the fragmentary remains of an old Gitchki fort. On tlic south side is a well, evidently much used for watering flocks. "We estimated the depth at about 50 feet. There appeared to be plenty of water. At 10 miles, a third well close to the road on the right hand side. Estimated depth 60 or 70 feet. Water abundant and good. At 12 miles, a solitary tree, about 300 yards to right of the road, is a land mark. At 14 miles, Sargwaz.f Uere is a well several hundred yards to left of the road. Beyond the well is a mound which serves to mark its position very exactly. The well is a large one, 100 feet deep, and contains several feet of good water. It does uot appear to be much used. Any amount of ground for encampment in the open plain. Wood and camel grazing at some little distance to south east, Barsh6u grass abundant in the same direction. E,oad excellent all the way. Passed to-day a Bizanjao kafila of 20 camels, 2 ])ulloeks, and 11 donkeys, laden with Panjgiir dates and bound for N;il. The watershed of Gitchki is about 8 miles distant. It elevation must be nearly 5000 feet. Beyond, the country is called Gwargii. It continues open like Gitchki for an indefinite distance. Sunday, Vilh January. — Mancuak. Elevation, 5004 fecf. \\\ miles. West over the plain, ascending steadily, to foot of low black hills. Here, at 4^ miles, is a well called Uarhanar(DarahHanar — "pomgranate valley," or "hollow." There actually were some pomgranates at one time, but none now). This name is also applied to the surrounding tract, which contains some khixshkdwa • Tho people say tbore is uever any less. Running watev docs not l>egin in the Oichki for n good way down, " about opposite to Sakun Kulat." t The name appears to mean " head of tho valley" and is applied to tho whole tract up to tho watershed. 30 land, a subject of dispute between A'ziul Kbtlii and the Gitchkis.* The road skirts the hills for a short distance, and then crossing a dry watercourse (easy) continues, in the same direction as before, diagonally through low parallel ridges mostly composed of crumbling trap. At about miles cross a watershed.t Thence descend gradually widening water courses through low hills and clay slate plateaux. The fall is rapid, and the nalas are sunk deep below the level of the rough tract through which they run, and which is known as Ghar. At about 7 miles pass some water in the nala bed. At 8 miles leave the water-course and pass to the right, over higher ground, to another. The drainage of all these goes south-west to Gwdrgu. The nala now entered is followed round to north, and then again to west and south-west to the halting place. Here are 2 or 3 small water holes, and there is really no place to encamp except the bed of the nala which is about 15 yards across. It is however very smooth and even. As for the water supply, each hole only appears to contain about as much as a wash hand basin ; but the water runs below the surface and they do not become exhausted. Digging would ensure a tolerable amount. Wood and grass are scanty, and there is no camel grazing. Troops would not halt here, except for some special reason, and would then be obliged to bivouac in the bed of the nala. The hills on either side are several hundred feet high but quite accessible. Road good all the way. The nala beds are of line slaty gravel or shingle and are easy travelling. The track is well marked. The word Manchar means a loop or bend. Monday ISth January — Zaiak. 4577 feet. 14 miles. Ascend the nala, which narrows and rises rather rapidly. Some very sharp turns would require cutting out for artillery. Road smooth ; in one place there is a ledge about a foot high. There is surface water in several places above camp. At 1^ miles the " kand" or crest of the pass. The last hundred yards is steep, increasing from 1 in 15 to 1 in 12. From heights near the crest a good view can be obtained of the surround- ing country. To the south-east and east Gitchk; to the south-west and west Gwiirgii. Beyond these is a mass of parallel ranges of no great height separat- ing them from K61wah. To the north and north-east is Rashbiu, a broad but broken valley, extending for a great distance. High ranges on the further side can be traced for at least 50 miles in a north easterly direction. Kharan bears a few degrees cast of north; but the road lies up Rakshan and, leaving Shircza on the right, passes through the hills. To the west is Panjgur, its plain being a continuation of Rashkan. From here also the structure of the range, in a series of broken ridges ruu- ing parallel to one another, is very noticeable. This is the normal formation of all the hills in this country. The mass of the range is clay state, but trap, in a more or less disintegrated state, is everywhere intrusive, and so mixed as it were with the original beds that it is often difficult to tell what a hill is really made of. Dykes of trap crown almost every ridge. Descent from the crest of the pass is by an easier gradient than, the ascent ; but the water course is very narrow, and somewhat rough from the fragments * Kafilas sometinios halt hero, bnt there is not much water. tA road from Kolwah through the hills (south-south-west), and across the plain, joins in about this point. It is a good camel road and is used by kafilas. 87 of (raj) which liavc I'alh'ii into it. Tho camel track, ho\V(;vcr, is smooth and good. Tlicre is watiu- in sovi-ral places for the first mile. At first tlio direction is to north-west, but at al)out t miles tlie water-course is quitted and a hranch followed to the left (west) which leads to a Kotal (5075 feet). Ascent and descent easy, but nalas are narrow. From theuce gain a second main ravine, which is also quitted shortly afterwards, and another water- shed (5050 feet) passed over into a tliird ravine. This last Kotal is also quite easy, and tlie surrounding clay slate hills are low, and easily traverseable by infantry. The ravine now entered is followed for several miles. It widens consider- ably and the hills sink into conglomerate undulations. A water hole is passed at about 8 miles. Either here or in the neighbourliood is the halting place called Jdish* Unfortunately it was almost dark wlien we got to this point and we could only think of getting on as fast as possible. At about 13-a- miles turn abruptly to the left and proceed over low undu- lations to tlie bed of another water-course. Here is the halting place, at the foot of the hills, about a mile off the main road. The nala is broad, and lies between conglomerate plateaux, on which ground might be found for the encamp- ment of troops, but they are broken by hollows and there is not much room in any one place. The water runs under the left bank of the nala. It comes from a long way up, but sinks into the stones at the camping place. No doubt a good su[)ply might be got near the road by digging. It is very slightly saline. Wood and camel grazing moderate. Grass tolerably plentiful. Tuesday \^th January. — Halted. Surveying'. liashkiin is a very large valley 12 to 16 niiles in width and of great length. Its watershed is said to be 9 or 10 camel stages north-east of the centre of Panjgur and not less than 100 miles distant. The valley is drained by a large water-course (Kaur) also called Ilashkan. This is dry. Ilashkiin appears to consist almost entirely of bare fiats of dark gi-avel and small shingle sloping gently down to the water-course. In other words the daman of the hills on either side actually abuts on the Ilashkan Kaur, and there is no centre of alluvial soil as is commonly the case. The aspect of the valley is very barren and desolate. As might be expected there is hardly any cultivation. At a place called Ndgh, or Nagha Kalat, G or 7 stages from Panjgur (see route No. xiv.f), there is a little irrigated land, and in one or two spots are patches of khushkawa The country, however, is good for sheep. The inhabitants of Ilashkan are motStly Mahomed Ilasauis, but beyond Nagb are "Nasriii" Baluch. Azad Khan's boundary, according to the Gitchkis of Panjgur, is at Kenagi, a well about 50 miles from Isul. I believe, however, he claims right up so Pir Umar, and even pretends to have a right to Panjgur itself. The road to Shirez a Kalat by Route xiv.t lies right up the Kaur. A • Troops would proliably halt here. Distance from Siirgwaz 19| miles. From Darhanar lo uiilc.s. Ji'iish to Pir Uaiar 14 miles. t 1 think the di.stances given iu T^wtc xiv. are all exaggerated. Perhaps some stages have got in which do not belong to the roiite at all, as there are several tracks np the valley and mj infor- mants may have got confused, though I did my best to sift their statement.^. At all events the distances will not plot as they stiiud. Probably Kenagi well is only 30 to 35 miles from I»Ai. branch road to Wdshuk goes from about the centre of the A\illey over the SorAnl Kand. (See routes xi. and xii.) The three passes into Gitchk and Eaghai have been already mentioned. They are the Ghanu to north, Murgap from Sakiin Kaiat in the centre, and to south the Ghar road by which we came. South again of Ghar there is a pass known the Shihmi Kand (afterwards explored), froni Panjgur into Gwargii ; it is practicable, but difficult, for laden camels. Wednesday, ^Qth January. — PiR Umar. 4273 feet. Smiles. Down the watercourse for a short distance and then bear away to the left (west) over a broad gravelly plain gently sloping to the Kaur, which is some miles distant on the right. The road is remarkably level and good, and the palm trees of Plr Umar are visible almost the entire distance. A short way before reaching them the road enters a large but shallow hollow, passes along it, and again ascends the right bank. Here is the Ziarat of Plr Umar with a few date trees and a patch of cultivation. There is also a mat hut village of fakirs. Amir Khan, younger brother of Mir Gajiau, Gitchki Chief and Naib of Panjgur, resides here on account of a family quarrel. To west and north of Plr Umar is an extensive undulating plain of black gravel, affording ample room for encampment. Water abundant. Grass moderate. Camel grazing and wood rather scanty. Supplies procurable from Sir-i-Kauran, Sordu, &c., 3 or 4 miles north-west. lleceived here by the Naib and a large following. Thursday, list January. — IsAi. 4122 feet. 10 miles, lload at first west-north-west. Tlie hollow mentioned above comes round Pir Umar and is now crossed again. Descent and ascent very easy. It joins the Kaur about 2 miles below the road, and through the opening there is a glimpse of a long line of date groves in which are the villages of Sir-i-Kaui-an and Wajhbud. South of the Kaur the centre of the valley is occupied by a gently undulat- ing plateau of dark gravel, between which and the southern range is a space of lower lying country. All the villages of Punjgiir, imbedded in date trees, are along the Kaur, so that the fertile strip is a very narrow one. Tiie road strikes this at Sordu (3| miles), and here, where the gravel plateau slopes to the palm groves, is the residence of Mir Gajian, a large and comfortable castellated house. Adjacent is a small village of mat huts. The road, bending west, a few hundred yards short of Sordu, skirts the plateau. One village after another is passed, each hidden among its own date trees, the groves of which arc almost continuous from Sir-i-Kaurau to Isai. Khudabadan, on the opposite, or right, bank of the Kaur, is passed at about 7 miles. Camped at Isai this side (i. e. east) of the fort and village. Water and supplies abundant, but camel grazing is scanty and so is grass. The Sirdiir and his cort6ge joined us at Sordu, and we made a state entry into Isai, with all the pomp and circumstance which could be mustered for the occasion. Indeed the display was extremely picturesque. Friday, 22nd January. — Haxted. Post in this morning. Only days, up to 28th December. Nearly all day trying to make certain about routes to Kharun. Panjgur has seen certain vicissitudes since visited by Macgregor and Lockwood in 1877. In the same year the Naoshirvvdnis came down from 39 Kluin'm and suececdL'd in taking; Isai and its fort, ilir Guji;'m was then absent, having gone witli the Khiin to tlie Dolhi assemblage and not vet returned. Ilis second ])rotlicr was kiUd in the lighting, and in a month or six weeks the Ni'iosliirwanis had got possession of every place in the valley except Sordu, wiiere Mir GajLiu's little castle held out to the end and was never taken. In 1S7S the Kht'm sent a force to reinstate .Mir Giijian. This was ac- complished after a good deal of j, not caring to knock their heads against strongly garrisoned walls, marched back again, leaving Mir Morad Khan who owns land in Panjgur, to hold the fort which had been built during the year of occupation on the plain north of Kluulabadan. As soon as >'uor(3z Khan had departed, the Khan's troops sallied forth and invested the fort, which was besieged in a sort of a way for upwards of a year, that is until December 1S81. The Naoshirwanls having eaten all their provision, then came to terms, but Mir Mon'id retains possession of the fort and holds no communication with the Gitchkis. Mir Gajuu has for the moment peaceable possession of his district. He transmits lis. 12,000 a year to the Khan's treasury, and also pays and provides for the garrison of Kalat troops. After this but little remains for himself. However, he. enjoy the honour and comfort of ruling his own country ; while it is probably more i)rofitable to the Klu'm to receive, as now, a fixed revenue without trouble, than was formerly the case when the remittances varied from lis. 35,000 to nothing, and the district was constantly disturbed. (See also Miles' Report.) It should be understood that Mir Giijian's position is that of a feudatory chief rather than that of a Governor. He informed mc he was of lliijpiit origin, not Sikh as stated in the Gazetteer, and seemed proud of the fact. With regard to ililes' remark that the trade with Urmara (in 1873) had increased in proportion as that witli Kalat had fallen off, this state of things is now reversed, and the KaUit trade is by far the most considerable. There are no bannias resident here now, but many come at the harvest times to transact business. The principal, if not the only, article of export is dates. AVheat is imported in exchange. There is abundance of water here but very little land, and what there is, is almost entirely occupied by date groves, under which crops are raised, sometimes in shade so thick that it is surprising how they can ripen. The jowari of tliis place is of excellent quality, finer than that of Sind. lleturned the Sirdar's visit ; he has a defensible house or, ^Uri a short distance from tlie fort. One wife and establishment here and one at Sordu. At Isai (or Miri Isa) there is a sort of branch of palm groves, cultivation, and huts, stretching away from the Kaur, south east, for a mile or more. It is called Kahan (not Kahan). The best camping ground for troops would be west of this, and south of Isai, on a large level plain of fine gravel mixed with sand. Snlurdtii/, 2Sr(l January. — Halted. Survey and routes Sunday 'lith Jaiiiian/.— llxhiEV. lloutes the whole day. The follo>\-ing 40 information was oljtainod regarding Kbaanin. To the east of Kharan town is a string of hamlets, llurao (G miles), Gwazagi (7 miles), Miskani Kalut (9 miles). Beyond these are Jodiii Kalat, Kanderao, Sires, Dhan61i and Taghap. The latter is somewhat to the south. Gwazagi and Miskani Kalat, or Miskan, seem to be the only ones of any size except Taghap. They have 50 or 60 huts a piece. Taghap CO or 70, tlic rest 20 or 30. Inhabitants are mostly Rakshanis, and they own the land, but the Nuoshirwanis own the water (from bands,) and take a share of the produce. West by south of Kharan town, — two camels stages (about 36 miles), — is Khurmagai ; a new village. Ilere is some khushkawa cultivation, a small fort, and collection of shepherds huts. North east, about 10 or 12 miles, is Sariiwan a Kambarani village of about 60 huts. The principal men are Saiad Khan and Khan Mahomed. The land by rights belongs to the Khan of Kalat, but A'zad Khan enjoys the revenues, and the people obey his rule and join his forces.* It is watered by canals from the Bado which draw off all the water. The dry bed of the river passes close to Kharan on the east. The pastoral tribes, from the south up to Kharan, are mostly Mahomed Ilasanis. They pay " malia" to Isiif Khan of Jibri, but obey xV'zad Khan and join his standard in war. South east, 6 or 7 miles from the town (always known as A'zad Khan's " shahr " or " Kalat," Khdrdn being the name of the extensive plain in which it stands), is the hamlet of Gazi containing some 30 or 40 huts of ghulams. Naor6z Kalat is two marches north-north east of Kharan town, the inter- mediate halt being at Sarawan. Reports differ as to its distance from the latter place, but it is probably 17 or 18 miles. Close by, on the west, is a high hill marked on the map of Macgregor and Lockwood's exploration. The fort stands on high ground, and is considered strong, but is not large. There is some cultivation, an orchard and date trees. The whole is watered by three cuts from the Bado. Naoroz Kalat, is in Kambarani country, but the inhabitants arc ghulams of A'zad Khan. "VVashuk appears to 35 to 40 miles east, or east by south, of Badu Reg cm the Mashkel. It is 12 marches (about 154 miles) north northeast of Ranjgur ; and 7 marches (about 94 miles) south west of Kharan town. It is described as situated in the gap of a range of hills t through which the Washuk Kaur passes. In general characteristics it resembles one of the Panjgur villages, or rather probably Gajar. Its huts, fields, and date groves, lie along both sides of the kaur, and in size it is rather larger than Sordu, i. e. about 300 houses. The fort is situated exactly like that of Gwarjak and is of about the same size. J There are no resident banias though many go there in the harvest time. Eight or ten blacksmiths live at Washuk. The dates of Washuk are excellent, better even than these of Panjgur. The inhabitants an; Halozi and and Wushuki Kalandaranls, the principal men being Mir Zangin Ilalozi, Sultan Mahomed Malikzdda (Saiad) Khudadi'ul Washuki, and Karani Shah Halozi. The duties of Naib are entrusted to a * Saiawilii only furnislics 30 men. The population of this place is a floating one, the people going to and from Kalat and otlier places. tThe Wusliuk ningo goes east as far as Greshak ou the SoranI route, (No. XII.), but only a short distance in the opposite direction. X There is only a small guard of half a dozen men. 41 family of three brotliers who appear to have equal authority. Their names are Alabaksli, A'o<^h;iii and Diirak. It is supposed Wushuk eau turn out 200 to 400 lij^htinj^ m(Mi aceonling to whether the season has been good or bad, for in the latter case a portion of the people remove with their Hocks to some more favoured spot. The revenue of "VVilshuk is ^th of the produce according to the common rule in these parts. It is said there is no inain land. Compare Ilaji Abdul Nabi.* Monday, 2oih Jamiai'n. — ilaltcd. Still waiting for camels but plenty to do in tlie \v:iy of routes and surveying. Tasp is the largest of the Panjgur townships, containing about GOO huts of Mulazais. I'sai has 500 huts, Sordii 250. Khudabuddn was formerly thickly inhabited but there are now only about 60 or 70 huts of AmirAris. The date groves are extensive, extending in places to nearly a mile back from the river bed on cither side. Tlie cultivation is all among and under the date trees. At Sorwan to the south-Avest is only khushkawa cultivation, and no one lives there permanently; the cultivators are Muluzais of Tasp. llode out to A'zad Khan's fort nortli of the east end of Khuddbddan. It is only a few hundred yards from the edge of the date groves, and is rudely built of mud and katcha brick, but the walls arc higli and thick (6 to 8 feet) and in tolerable repair, so it is strong according to Baluch notions. "We could not enter it, or even approach very close, as it was still held by Mir Mon'id Naoshir- wani. The walls are certainly 20 fe(!t higli, and the perimeter probably under 200 yards, measured outside. It is of irregular trace with a square tower. There is a well inside. Khudubadan was given by Nasir Khan 1st to A'zAd Khan's father or grand- father in inam. Under present circumstances of course he gets nothing out of it, but Mir Morad Khan, who has some of the land, is said to be allowed to enjoy the proceeds. A post in this eveniug. Tuesday, Tlth January. — llalted. Camels came in last night, but the owners want to make their own terms and the Sirdar is settling with them. To-day and the last two days have been cold, with a strong nonh wind, making the atmosphere as usual very hazy and dirty. Tiiis weather is a remarkable contrast to the heat of the first day or two. There are said to be no internal dissensions in Panjgur now. The revenue as is generally customary in these parts, is -nyth of all produce, and that is paid to Mir Gajiin cheerfully enough. To continue notes on villages in Khai-.'ui. Tiie most important place in the country, next to A'zad Khan's town, and ranking above Washiik, is Kalag. This is a group of 9 hamlets lying along a stream called the Chihaltauiini Kaur, disposed much as in Panjgur and similar places. The names of the villages arc as follows : — (1) Eri Kalat, (2) Nardutan, (3) Razai, (A) Kalshinfm, (5) Garok, (6) Pati- nak, (7) Maladin, (8) Liis, (9) Chihaltan ; (3) and (G) are on the left bank of the kaur, all the others on the right. ♦ It may bo as well Ui remark here that I had Haji Abdnl Nabi'u account of hu) journey with me, and compared it with the statements of the I'atijgiir people, to many of whom Kbiran and Washiik arc well known. I also luskcd them leading questions from the book. It will be noticed that in some important pai-tiuularb the Uaji'ii report ia not confirmed. 42 Eri is 17 or 18 miles north-wost or west-north-west of Khamn town. There are wells on the road. From Eri to Chihaltan is 10 miles. The hamlets are individually small, Kalshinan, the largest, having only 30 or 40 huts. That is, I understand, liermanent habitations. The kaur runs south or south- south-cast to Gwash, which is the open plain south of Kharan and is there dissipated. About the villages there is a fair amount of cultivation irrigated from the kaur, also small date groves, orchards and vines. The people are Sijihpud Ptinds. Their chief Niir Muhamad lives at Kalshinan and another wahdera, llustam, at Maladin. The Sii'ipiid furnish 500 men to the Kharan forces, of whom 300, or thereabouts, come from Kalag. Since the invasion of Kharan by the Khan of Kalat (in 1858?,) at which time Kalag fell into the hands of the Kalat army, a new fort has been built on another kaur which runs parallel to, and 8 or 10 miles east of, the Chihal- tanani. It is called Jhalawar. There is a high hill east of the fort, between it and the stream ; another to the south-west, and a third to the north-west. The spurs of these unite, forming a circle of hills, about 1000 yards in diameter, in the midst of which the fort is situated.* On the peaks are strong towers and a good deal of labour is said to have been expended in making the position as strong as possible. As the ridges are described as being high and scarped, and in many places inaccessible, it is possible the position may be formidable, hut the Baluch have no genius for fortification. f It is acknowledg- ed that the hills once taken the fort itself could make but little resistance. Such as it is, however, this is A'zad Khan's stronghold, and here he himself resides with his family. His treasure is also kept here. The permanent garrison of Jhalawar is not less than 500 muskets. There is a well in the fort, but the water is not good, and drinking water is generally obtained from the stream or springs on the east. Some 3 or 4 miles to the north is a range through which the kaur comes and east of the gap is a conspicuous peak called Mamii. A'zad Khan's frontier is the Hajhdiah range and other hills forming the northern boundary of Panjgiir; westwards the line goes to the Grawag Tank, J where they say Kharan, Jalk, and Panjgur all join. Kuhak belongs to Kharan. There are 5 or G blacksmiths in Panjgur ; one carpenter and mill-wright, (this man is a Sikh and lives at Sordu) ; also ten moochees. The climate of Panjgur is admitted to be decidedly unhealthy in summer, and appears to be relaxing at all times. My men complained of the water, but it is apparently sweet and good. Stone in the bladder is said to occur occa- sionally in the valley. Mir Gajian can muster in his district 1,500 fighting men, of whom about 150 are mounted. Almost every man carries a shield in this country. There are no watermills now in Panjgiir though there were formerly. The Sii-dar, however, has a bullock mill at Isai which grinds for the detachment of Khan's troops. With relays of bullocks it is supposed to be capable of turning out 8 to 10 maunds of flour in 24 hours. Wednesday, 2Sih Jamiarj/ .Sua' uba' z Kala't. Elevation 4,055 feet, 25 miles. (By the Shahrai Kand). * The east hill is the nearest. The others are >d of a mile distant, t The place mentioned :is " Railing " (an impossible name) in No. XVI. of tlie routes attached to " Biluchistan," by A. W. Hughes, F. E. G. S., is no doubt the same. X See also Macgregor's " Wanderings in Biluchistan." 43 From Isai south-oast. At about 1 mile pass the last palm trees. Soon after tho low conglomerate bliifTs ol" the central jjlateau trend hack, and the track crosses an extensive gravelly plain, liroad, but very shallow, watercourses, grown with pish, run from left to right to join the kaur below Isai. After 5 miles the ascent becomes percei)tible. " Damiin" strewn with dark coloured fragments of trap rock, but track good. At about 7 miles enter the hills. A water-course is followed for a short distance, and tin; road, ascending left bank, crosses a bent or small plateau. At about 8 miles descend again to the watercourse, and cross it. There is then a short and slightly rough ascent. to low broken hills through which the road passes. These are part of the second range, which is at sonu; distance from the third range. Intervening ground a long strip of partly open barren country cut by deep w^atcr-courses and broken by small hills. At about 9 miles the nala is again entered, and now followed through a short gorge in a tolerably high range of metamorphic rock. Here, at 9 miles, is water , called (I think) Kashindar. It is abundant and good, but there is no place to camp. Tiienala, after passing the hills, is followed round to the east for a short distance, and then south. It now becomes very narrow, and is a defile sunk among a mass of inferior clay slate hills between the third range and main ridge. Up to this point tho road is good, but at about 10 miles the track takes to the hill side on the right, there being an impassable place a little higher up. The path is very narrow, and there is a steep fall of 40 to 50 feet to tho torrent bed, into which an animal would be precipitated on making a false step. After a quarter of a mile or so the nala is regained by a steep, rocky and awkward descent. After a short distance a small rocky spur, between narrow ravines, is ascended. The path is very fair and the clay slate affords good foothold. Beyond this is a short and easy ascent to the crest of the pass, which is reached at 11^ miles. Elevation 5150 feet. A good view is obtainable here over Panjgur to the north, and the Gwiirgu valley to south. The descent is steep and rough, more difficult than the ascent,and the gradient for the first few hundred yards is probably not less than 1 in 7 or 1 in 8. From tbonce down a gradually widening, and winding, ravine ; general direction south- east coming round to south-west. At 3v}- miles from the crest (15 miles), after a rather long westerly bend, thelastlow range is past and the Gwargu valley entered- About S. S. W. from hero, 4 to 5 miles across the valley, is a well called PakiiUi said to contain a good supply of water. It is on one of the ti'acks to the Gandagarok Kand,whicli is reported practicable for horsemen. Gwurgu, as before mentioned, is a continuation of Gitchk and separated from it only by a watershed. It is about 4 miles wide, and extends west to the Pulubiul phiin* in which Shahbaz Kahit is situated. It is drained by two very brQad and shallow water courses, thickly grown with tamarisk, and the whole • Puliibiid is a village in tlio plain a short march west of Shahhaz Kalat. Hei-e are 200 hnts of Taliikani, Dashti and Barak Baluch, raiats of Mir Gajian. There arc many wells and w.ater is abundant. Formerly tlicrc were 'J kan'zcs, but thry have long been choked and the land is now only khushkawa. Many camels arc gnized in this country. From Pnhibad thcr; is a road to Kei : (1) Jlitik Sing, (2) Kamar. (3) Knmbari Ghar, (4) Jabdar, (.">) Gazbasta, (C) Shaitap. (7) Boleda, (8) Gantk (hnmedap), (9) Gokprosh, (10) Jadgal (beyond kand of the same name,)(ll) Kej. The above are all camel stjifjos and short marches. The road is tolerable, bnt not .so good as the ordinary one, and no shorter, ilorcover it has not the same advantages iu the way of wood water and camel grazing. valley is well covered with low shrubs and grass, presenting a decided contrast to the excessive bareness of Panjgur, outside of the fertile strip along the kaur. The inhabitants of Gwargu seem to be a Mingal section. They arc raiats of Mir Gajlan. From the exit of the Shahmi Pass to Shahbaz Kalat is about 10 miles in a straight line. There is no road, but the way cannot be mistaken and the travelling is easy. Shahbaz Kalut is a rude fort situated on a mound on the south side of a plain of alluvial soil mixed with sand. It is commanded by low hills at four or five hundred yards to the south-east, but that is of no consequence in Baluch warfare. It is in good repair. The walls are about 10 feet high with small square towers. The trace is irregular, adapted to the site, and the perimeter about 100 yards. The entrance is on the west side. There are two wells, without, at the base of the mound. One is about 75 feet deep, the other 40 feet. Good supply of water in both. Some 700 or 800 yards south-west is a third well. At present Mir Gajian has a garrison of 20 men in the fort. The plain is somewhat cut up with water-courses. There is a good deal of tolerable khushkawa land, but we saw none under cultivation. The people are Kashani Baluch, raiats of Mir Gajian. They can muster altogether about 200 fighting men. On the east, the plain adjoins Gwargu, of which it practically forms a part. West it stretches an indefinite distance, and the country appears very open in that direction. North, about 4 miles, are the Kashuni hills separating the plain from that of Panjgur, and south are the ranges through which lies the road to Kilkaur, K61wah, Urmara, and Kej. "Water, wood, camel grazing, and grass abundant. Ample ground for encampment. From Shahbaz Kalat to Isai is about 21 miles by the Kashani road which is the straightest and best. The range is crossed by a pass so easy that it is little more than a watershed. However to gain this a slight detour is made. On the straight road is a small kand, but it is easy. Kafilas halt at Mantar* about half way. Here is a rather scanty supply of water in the bed a nala, a few hundred yards east of the road. Moreover there appears to be but little room for encampment.! Between the Kashani road and Shahmi Kand is a pass called Nakibo. By it there is a good camel road, but it joins the Kashani route within the hills on the Panjgur side, and is longer than the latter so there is no advantage in taking it. TJmrsday, 2dth January,— Zam. Elevation 4120 feet. 19 miles. South- west from the fort, passing third well at a short half mile. The track is heavy in sand to within the first hills. At the well bend south-south-west ; at 2^ miles pass first hills, a broken range of trap dyke. Passing through low de- tached rocks, a stony and gravelly undulating plain is entered. It extends far to the west. At 5^ miles pass through low hills and hillocks. The road is good, but there is a perceptible ascent all the way from Shahbaz Kalat. At about 6 miles a drop of 15 feet into a nala. No difficulty for laden animals. The main range is now approached and entered at about 8 miles. The path, following a small water course, ascends for a short half mile to a low * This name, Mantar or Manchar, is very common, and means a loop or bond, as of a stream. t See also Macgrogor's " Wanderings in Biluchistan." ( -15 ) kotal, callccl Ziruiilv. Tt is a little r(>UL,'li, but tlio t^^diotit i^; r^Dod, and tlio hills on citlier liui(l_of no biiylit, and easily accessible. Tbey are of tbc usual clay st nte and trap. Tliorc arc two tracks over the kotal. That to ri^Iit rwo^t) is pfrlmps ;i little the best. Descent easy, biit lonp;er tlirin the ascent. At about 9 1 miles the road drops into a deep watercourse, at tbc edge of •wbicb is a small road side zi'arat. Tbis is tbc Wasb Jaurkan Nala. It runs westward and then north, join- ing tlie stream of Panjgur, afterwards known as the Mashkel. The ti-act now entered is a narrow broken valley ; about 2 miles in front is a range similar to that lirst passed and running parallel to it cast and west. The road turns east up the watercourse which is about 25 yards across between high banks. Following the nala it turns south-west and just beyond, at It miles, are shallow rock pools. Here is Wash Jaurkan halting-place. The campiu'^ ground would be on conglomerate plateaux on left bank either above or below water. There is very little room on the right bank. All the available ground is commanded from the north by accessible hills of moderate height. The bed of the nala is thickly grown with coarse grass, oleander, and pfsh. Giirkno grass, whicli is belter than harshon, is abundant in the neighbourhood; also camel grazing. Wood moderate. Water abundant, but slightly saline. AVash is " sweet," and jaurkan " oleander." There is one of the usual legends, to the effect that a man arrived here in a starving condition and implored tlie Pir burietl in the zidrat abovementioned for assistance in the shape of food. After this he felt impelled to eat the oleander blossoms, and to his surprise found them sweet and nourishing. Prom Wash Jaurkan water the track ascends a small side ravine. On the left hand is a hole in the conglomei-ate bank. It is said to have been made by a Persian force camped here during one of their invasions, and was intended for the storage of their powder during heavy rain, Avhich occurred at that time. The road goes east for about 2 miles, and then bends east-south-cast, cross- ing the villey diagonally through low liills aiul broken groun^l. At 3.^ miles is a watcrsbi'd, the draiuagc beyond going to the Kil Kaur, and so to Kej. Ueigbt 3,325 feet. Thence the track descends a ntila, at first very small and narrow, and sunk between clay slate banks. Koad good. At 5 miles is a little water, the head of that called Mantar. There Mould be room lo camp above the bank, and kafilas sometimes halt here.* 'Ihe nala is still very narrow and the road for a short distance not so good. At about 6 miles pass, still following the watercourse, througli the first ridge in the Istarair range. Here a ledge of rocks -crossing the nala bed makes the road rouMi for a few yards. There is perennial water at this spot. From hence the road for about 3 miles lies through a winding dffilc or ffor^c betAveen rather lofty and bold hills of the usual formitiou. Although nothin"' very grand, this dclile is a relief from the barren monotony of the endless clav slate and trap ridges of which this country entirely consists. It is called Mantar (or ]\Ianchar), a word meaning loop, or 1)cnd, as of a strcan\. and of common occurrence. Water is constant for about two-thirds of tlu« way. • A jwtl . ei lior fr. • fr..m vlii' .1. til. Ix'l ■»■, ov.r tl c IMjtoc K..ml, r.-nii.t tlic rcnJ aloui .1 u i of tlK' Zan, Koli. U 84V0B wuir dibUUCc, but is sai. ( -IG ) and it is sweet and good. The descent is rapid, probably 1 in 20 to 1 in 25, and the road, over clay slate gr.ivel, is mostly yoovl. l here are, however, one or two rough bits, where the bed rocks crop up, and at one spot cavalry might have to dismount.* At 9 miles the mouth of the defile is reached. Here, on tlie left hand side going down, is a small waterhole, and as the nala is called Zam after issu- ing from the hills, this is known to kafila peojile as the Zam halting place. There is no room to camp any but the smallest detachment. We pitched north of the water, which is sweet, ])ut rather scanty. Grass and fuel aljundaut. Camel grazing scanty. The hills to east are called Janakajik. Troops would never halt here. Garak on the same uala, 5 miles on, is a much better place. This is Sajdi or Saka country. It is in the Panjgur district. Koad generally good. Minimum of thermometer last night 28.° Friday, oOlh January. — KiL Kaur (salt mila) 20^- miles. Elevation 2,010 feet. Follow the nala, now called Zam (sicord). At IJ miles road ascends to the right bank, and a quarter of a mile further it is joined by the track from Mantar over the Istarag Kand. This path cuts off the Mautar windings, but the pass is difficult. The tract now traversed is a broken country of small ridges and pish grown nalas, the latter running southwards. The road is either in, or near, the Zam. It is good. At 4J miles the nala passes through the next r;nge, a single one, much inferior in height to those on either side of the Mantar defile. That part on the left ( east ) of the gap is the Zam Koh. Here, where the nala enters the hills, the road is joined by the Gandagarok track. This path goes north, nearly straight over the hills, into Gvvargu, from which it is continued in the same line by the Shahmi Kand road into Panjgur. The Gandagarok Kand is high, but, it is said, not very steep. It is, however, impracticable for laden camels. f It is rather better than the Shahmi Kand, and could no doubi. be easily made into a fair road if worth while. The halting place in Gwargu is at Saman, where there is an old fort and apparently some khushkawa land. Water runs in the Gwargu Kaur down to this point, which is somewhat to the right of the direct line. Wood, grass, and camel grazing abundant. Distance from Saman to Chetkan in Panjgur 18 or 19 miles. No doubt this road saves a good deal of ground, especially if the journey is to be continued towards Kharan by the Hajhdiar Pass, but where large num- bers of baggage animals are concerned, camels especially, the road with the easiest gradients will prove the shortest in the long run. At 5 miles water reappears in the bed of the Zam. There is a fine pool under a rock, and the water is said to run from hence continuously to the Kil Kaur. Good ground for encampment below the pool on both sides of the nala. Grass moderate ; camel grazing moderate ; wood abundant. Unfortun- ately tlie water is decidedly saline, but it is good enough for one night. Country around half open, with two broken ridges. , The proper mime of this place is Garak, but it is evidently the " Zahm " of Miles. * The Miintar defile, ms iiii-ht l.e expected, 13 occasionally rendered impassable by floods. But it is asserted by all that these only occur 111 summer. The winter rain is mild. + Very conflicting statements were made to us about this pass. One individual asserted that it was impossible to ride over it. 1 believe the truth to be as stated above. ( n ) From the pool the road ijoes for a few hundred yards alontj the right 1)ank, and then crosses to left. Thonce it runs along a smooth level plain or platc<'iu ■with low hills on the left hand (east.) Here we met a kafila of 27 camels from Unira for Panjgut with wheat, rice, sugai', dried fish, and stuffs. At 7 miles again enter the hills, crossing a small easy kotal. The descent is into a nala running west to the Zam, now ahout a mile on the right. The latter goes away into the hills and is no more seen. It joins the Ki'l Kaur. Here is a sort of hollow or narrow irregular valley. To south it is bounded by a considerable range called Nap or Napta. The round turns left (east) under the ridge just passed. At first there is a slight ascent and then a de- scent to regain the watercourse, known as the Napta Sham (Nafta Sham of Lockwood). It is entered at 8 miles, and followed for a short distance. Here we met another kafila of 10 camels bound for Panjgiir from Kej. Thence through low hills to an almost imperceptible watershed gained at 8^ miles. Here a bend to the right and descent southwards down a small clay slate ravine, one of the heads of the Gumbak. It is very narrow, only a yard or two wide, and the turns are exceedingly sharp. Road very good. After half a mile a more open tract is entered, and the road quits the watercourse to left, CDSsing a small plain amidst low hills. In front is another considerable range, the Gumbak Koh. At 91 miles descend into the Gumbak Kaur, a large Avatcrcoursc. At 10 miles the Madag road bivanches to tht; left (east.) This village (in the Kolwah plain) is said to be only 10 or 12 miles dis- tant.* The road is a tolerable one and used by kafilas, but the Madag Kand over the last high range seems to be rather difficult. There are five kotals, of which two have a steep side, one north and one south. Jiladag belongs to Kaodai Baliich (Dost Muhammad Khan), but the people have been driven, thence by Baliich Khan Xaoshirwani of Hor, and have taken refuge in Gwark6p. At lOi miles water appears in the Gumbak. It is plentiful and sweet and runs for about a quarter of a mile, but there does not appear to be any place to pitch a camp. On either side are the Gumbak hills, but they hardly approach close enough to make a defile. When the last water is passed the Gumbak hills are also quitted, and shortly afterwards the nala bears away to the left, the road keei)ing pretty straight on, and descending through low hills over daman of the usual descrip- tion. At about 12] miles is a long narrow plain called Karpala. The west end only is crossed. It extends some miles to the east, and there is there a certain amount of good alluvial soil; the first seen since quitting Shabaz Kalat 30 miles back. The Giimbak Xala, its course marked by a line of low trees, crosses Karpala about two miles east of the road, and its flood water is sometimes utilised for cultivation, but the country seems to be too unsettled for agri- culture.t Beyond Karpala the road traverses low hills; then a V(^ry small strip of plain, and at 1 1 miles there is a slight descent through hills to the wooded plan of Dashtak. Tliis is of considerable size, being about 11 miles across, and stretching several miles both cast and west. In the former direction it is divided longi- • Tliis is al.sunl. Tlie clistanro must be at least 30 inilra, sea note, pnge 67. t Mes'ikai Kaiiib !s a niiii|)Ortl in Karpala. Lockwowl says it never drie» up, bat according to the puidci tliere in no irateriliis soa»)ii We >liil n<'t si-o it, as it was biilf a mile to east of the roail : hut a* tbo guide* were d-nug all they could to induce us to make short luorclies, I believe their statcmcDt oa this i ( 48 ) tiidinally hj a ridge. People here are Sajdfs, living l)y tlieir floeks. They also make attempts at cultivation as the rainfall and their enemies may permit. There is no surface water either in D.ishtak or Karpala excei^t rain- pools. No doubt it could easily be got liy digging, as abundant grass and vegetation show that it exists at no great depth. On entering Dashtak the road forks. The left hand branch is the proper direct route. The other leads to Ilekunah, and so, by a rather roundabout but easy way, to the Kolwah plain. As the divergence is at first but small, one path, may easily be mistaken for the other. (As it happened, our baggage did take the wrong road, but this was a piece of wilfulness on the part of the guide. We did not overtake it till it got to Rekunali 3| miles on ; and as I wanted to see the road, we had to retrace our steps to Daslitak, tbus adding over 5 miles to the march.) Crossing the Dashtak plain, the hills are again entered at 15^ miles, and the road winds through them, keeping pretty much on a level. It bends decidedly to the left or south-east. At about 17^ miles cross the Kaur Tor, a broad, rough watercourse. At 18 miles enter a high range of hills called Ginkash. This is a double range, bare and rugged. The first ridge is passed with only a slight ascent and descent. E-oad fair. The second ascent terminates in a rather steep rise to a kand, the crest of which is gained at 18 miles. The descent is much greater. It is nearly straight, steep and somewhat rough. At the top it is also very narrow. Below is a gravelly plain with small trees and bushes, over which the road is good. At lOJ miles begin again to descend and i)ass through small hills. "We halted on the further side of these at 20^ miles in a sort of rough and jungly valley, lying as usual east and west, but sloping to the south. About a mile east of the road the Giimbak joins a kaur, apparently known as the Lesser Kil and we camped on the latter. Its water is so salt as to be almost undrinkable and it was again a piece of misconduct on the part of the guides not to take as on to the real Kil Kaur, IJ miles further. It was iu fact nearly 8 o'clock, we had been marching about 11 hours, and they were tired. Pboad to-day good — better than yesterday. High northerly winds since leaving Panjgur. The decrease in elevation seems to make but little difiereuce in the temperature. The nights are cold, and the days by no means hot. The road to Rekunah is as follows : Prom where Dashtak is entered at 3^ miles from Giimbak, take the right hand track, which diverges at first but slightly from the other. At 4 miles pass the end of the longitudinal ridge dividing the western end of Daslitak. At 4J miles again enter hills. Here is another and very small strip of j)laiu. The road bends south-west and then west. At 5f miles another ridge is reached and crossed by a low kotal. The road still keeping away to the west crosses another and high er kotal at 6} miles. Descent is into a rather deep ravine, the head of the Pckuaah Tsala. The bottom is narrow, but good travelling. It is followed first west and tlien south. At 7 miles, a few yards off the road to the left (east), is a small running strer.m. This is the kafila halting place called Eekunah. "Water is abundant, and prob- ably grass also. "W^ood and camel grazing moderate or scanty. Distance from Garak about 12^ miles. ( 10 ) As the sun had now scf, and 8 or 9 miles of rofvd still Iny before us, it was impossible to examine this place properly, but there did not appear to be any room to form an cneampment. The valley or ravine is sunk among considerable heights, and the camp lies under a high hill to south, Avhich is part of the Ginkash range, and visible from Dashtak. The nala runs xvest under this, and then appears to turn south through the range. It joins the Kfl Kaur. There is said to be an easy cross track from here to ICil Kaur ; but I choose to go back to D.ishtak for the reason above stated. Fortunately a good moon enabled the country to be observed nearly as well as by daylight. From llekunah the route is said to lead as follows : — (1) Mahalur li or 15 miles, passing half way a place called Tetagar, where kafilas occasionally halt. (2) Balur about the same distance. This route is longer than the one followed, but is said to be easier, and it turns the llodal Pass. Saturdaij, 3lsl J(niiiori/.—'B\jXR. 21J miles. Elevation Oil feet. From our camp on the Ki'l Kaur salt stream, enter the hills almost imme- diately, and cross a low neck. The stream goes through a gap, a short distance to left (east). Short and easy descent to the Ki'l Kaur valley. It is thickly wooded with large tamarisk and babul trees. At IJ miles turn south-east and cross the K/l Kaur, a large watercourse, running between moderately high banks of soft alluvial soil. Water in louf* pools ; crossing easy. Beyond is a good open plain fit for encampment. Water abundant and good. Wood, grass, and camel gi-azing also abundant. Distance from Garak (Zam Xala) 17 miles. This is about the best halting place on the whole road, and would be a convenient spot for a dep6t, or for troops to remain a day and rest their transport.* From here road leads south-east across the plain, slightly rising and be- coming stony after a short distance. At about 3 miles pass through an outer ridge of the high hills lying in front. Thence a mile of steady ascent (probably 1 in 30) over tolerably smooth dcimdii. At 4 miles the road, following a watercourse, traverses low hills at the foot of the main range. After this another half mile or more of daman. Ascent about 1 in 25. At about 1^ miles descend again into the nala and follow it up into the hills. At 5] miles enter a narrow gorge, wild and rugged, continually ascending between clay slate heights 300 to 400 feet liigh. They are steep, but access- ible. Road in the bed of the torrent is rather rough, but quite jiracticable for laden camels. The ascent grows steeper and steeper, till it becomes from 1 in 15 to 1 in 12. Here the ravine is very narrow, only a few feet wide at bottom. At about C miles leave the ravine, and turning to the right ascend a smooth well marked path up a sort of cleft to the crest of the pass. This bit is 1 in •!• or 1 in 5, and over 100 yards long. It is barely wide enough for a laden camel to get np. The crest of this pass, called the Hodal Kand, is not a ridge, but compara- tively wide and open, sloping to south. Elevation about 3,150 feet, or some 1,200 feet above the Kil Kaur valley. To the north is a long, but not extensive, view. Janakajik, to east of the Mantar defile, and the Gandagarok Xand • Tlio Kil Kaur, like otiicr Iiill strcnius, is linlilo to lica\7 floods, but tbcsc rarely, i£ cvct, occur except iu lanuncr, and Bnbside so iiuickly, that travellers arc only dctaiiictl for a uigUt or »o. ( 50 ) are plainly visible. There is no outlook southwards from the pass itself. The crest of the range is the boundary between the Panjgiir and Kolwah districts. The descent as to gradient is easy. It lies down a narrow ravine, which is a little rougli for the first few yards. As the nala is doscendid, the heights on either hand naturally become greater. At about a mile from the crest the ravine leads into a larger one. This is called Naghai, which is also the name of the range, or at least this portion of it. Here is water in several places. The Xaghai ravine soon becomes 50 or GO yards broad, and widens gradually. It is pretty thickly grown with tamarisk and pfsh, but has a wide smooth water channel, down which is an excellent track over slaty gravel, rather soft than otherwise. The gradient here is probably about 1 in 30. Hills clay slate, and high, but accessible. The pass winds somewhat, but not much. At 10| miles {kl from crest) leave the high hills rather abruptly. Here the path to Nag branches to right (south-west). That place is rather more than a mile distant. It was visited by Lockwood, who calls it Nal, possibly a mis- print. Miles gives the name correctly. "We were informed that there is a hamlet there, with a small fort and some cultivation,* which Lockwood does not mention. The road goes straight on down the nala, here 150 yards wide, between high sloping banks. About a mile further (5^ from crest of Hodal) and right in the kaur is a thin clump of date trejs and tiny patches of cultivation. This is Kuldan ; it is watered by a good spring, and there would be tolerable ground for encampment on the low plateaux (daman) adjacent to the nala. There are no permanent inhabitants here. The place belongs to Dost Muham- mad Kaodai of Madag, but he and his people have been driven thence by Baliich Khan Naoshirwani of Hor, and with their clansmen of Baliir have taken refuge in GAvarkop. Distance from Kil Kaur proper 10 miles. Madag is about IG miles from Kuldan, nearly due east. Wood, water, and camel grazing appear tolerably abundant at Kuldan, grass doubtful. Here we passed a donkey kafila from Urmara carrying dried fish to Panjgur. Immediately to south of Kuldan is a low outer range of some thickness through whicli the kaur passes. The road lies in the bed of the watercourse and is good. At 1 mile pass waterholes. At 2 miles the hills are left, but their ddmdti continues, and it is another mile to where the nala fairly debouches on the plain. But bL'fore this it is quitted, the track bending somewhat to left (east) and descending the gentle gravelly sloj)e. The Kolwah plain noAv lies in front, stretching east-north-east as far as the eye can reach. On tlie west it adjoins that of Kcj, being only divided therefrom by a watershed, said to be a march distant.! The breadth of the plain, including daman on both sides, is about 7 miles. The ranges beyond (south) appear rather low from the plain. There is, however, a high hill to south-west called Girdank, which is visible from the » About 25 huts . f Kivxhn' Halu,li. inalik Klnula li iksli. Tliore is a knivz witli a date sjrove aiul n liitloin-i.iratod land. Kliuda Bak^'i 1 ws in tU' fort, whicli is mo^ ou a mouud or elcvatiou. It has uuc tower. A tcrlaiii quiiutity of fcarley can (;oa?rally Ik- iiro-urcJ licrc. t Boss travelled over this aud also Lockwood. ( fil ) nciglibourhoocl of TJrmdra. At 4 miles the track strikes alluvial soil, and shortly afterwards passes a niiiious fort on a raouud. This is Gat. There is jjlonty of good khushkiiwa land al)oiit hero, and some is now under cultivation. It belongs to the jieoplo of Nag. The f(n-t is inhabited in summer. At the south base of the mound is a well. The people hereai)Outs arc Nagliai Baliich. The portion of the Kohviih plain now traversi-d is called Kodakan. It is rather well wooded along this, its northern, side. Tamarisk is the principal tree, or rather bush, and the vegetation is that of a low country, luni, ak, ^milky euphorbia), drib grass, and so forth. There is no irrigated land. Ill tlie centre of tlie plain is more cultivation, and having passed this, the track suddenly disappears at al)out 7 miles. Guides, however, make for a well known gap in the hills througli which the road passes. Prom Gat the track has l)een south or south-south-east ; a decided turn to the left is now made, and a line taken south-east or east-south-east. Tlie plain is here almost bare, except for low scrub and thick tussocks of drab grass. At 10 miles leave alluvial soil and ascend a very gently sloping, smooth daman. The path now reappears, and is well marked. At lOJ miles descend into a nala, which is crossed. Tlienee ascend steadily through low hills. Good road. At 111 miles cross watershed called the Kuneri Kand. Gradients on boih sides easy. Thence descend a watercourse bending round to the right (south). The bills are everywhere low, broken, and easily accessible. At 13 miles from Kuldan reach Balur. Here is a small plantation of youn^ date trees, surrounded as usual by a thin fence of palm branches, and watered by a small stream in several rills. No one livings here now except two men in charge of the plantation. The people (Kaodai Baliich, Ibrahim Khan) have, as before stated, fled to G warkop to escape from their enemies, the Naoshirwam's of nor. Camping ground, at the Mater, confined, and surrounded by low hills. Water tolerably abundant and good. Puel, grass, and camel grazing scanty, but abundant in the Kolwaii plain 3 miles off. A road from Madag comes in here. D.'spife the decrease in elevation, it is still cold, and wo did not experience the dillerence in temperature south of the Ilodal Pass to which Miles refers. A strong northerly wind was probably the cause. Minimum of thermometer this night 2G°. About the same as at Paujgiir, which is nearly 2,000 feet higher. SuHdatj, 1st February. — 1I.\ii£tuak. 4 miles. Elevation 2,137 feet. The camels with our grain and flour not having appeared last uiglit, wo were obliged to make a short march to allow them to come up. The guide, lying as usual, sold there was no water for a long way beyond ilaretrak, and on coming up I found the baggage had been unloaded. From Paliir south-south-east ascending to a smooth gravel plateau. This would make a good camping ground, and is not too far from the water- supply. At I of a mile leave the plateau and descend to th(> Mas {molhcr) Baliiri Kaur, and turn up it south-south-west. Low hills on both sides. At \\ miles follow the nala south through a small range, after which it resumes its former westerly direction. At 2 miles pass a watci hole muler the hill on left. A little bi-yoiul tins climb the liiDs to left i^south) by a rough path narrow at the top. This is the ( S2 ) Baliiri Kami ; it leads to an elevated gravel plateau broken by small rocky ridges and detached hills. Over this the road strikes south-south-east. At 3| miles cross drainage channel, and shortly afterwards a brancb of the same. They run west, and then south, through the hills beyond. At 4 miles, having approached the ranges bounding the plateau on the south, descend into a small watercourse, which goes to join the main channel. Ilere is water, and we camped. It is not a place where troops would remain except of necessity. Water-supply moderate ; it is good, though slightly saline. Camel grazing and wood tolerably abundant down the nala. Grass, ijjiildr, &c.), fairly plentiful on the hills. According to the aneroid, this place is all but 1,200 feet higher than Balur. It does not seem nearly so much. The plateau is noticeable as being tlie watershed between Kolwah drainage and that wliich goes via the Slahdad Nala to the Basiil Kaur, and so to the sea. Kolwah is a basin, and its water has no outlet. 3Iond(nj, 2iid February. — Abgiu. 20^ miles. El(>vationG15 feet. Trom water at first east, and almost immediately turn south through the first hills to the Dedari (cactus) Kaur, a broad nala going away eastward. It runs along the base of a considerable range known as the Kahur DCand K6h. At the foot of the same range is a nala going in the opposite direction. This is one of the heads of tbe Kahur Kand Kaur. The road bends south-west away from D.^dai-i, and then Avest, striking this nala and folloAving it down. I did not observe tbe watershed, so it must be very slight. High parallel ridges run east and west ; the watercourses in the intermediate ravines make their way south tbrough gaps. At \\ miles turn south through first Kahur range, then east. And 2 mdes again south through the second range of Kahiir. After pass- ing this, the kaur goes away eastward. It joins the Dedari, and both eventu- ally run to the Basiil. The track, however, turns west up an affiuent nala. It is rougb travelling, the hills having changed from clay slate to sandstone, or metamorphic clay stone. The bed of the torrent is therefore a mass of stones and small boulders instead of the fine soft gravel into which clay slate disin- tegrates. All the way from Haretrak the road has been more or less of a defile. The ravine now traversed is not more than 30 yards wide, and is narrower as one advances. The whole country is a mass of parallel ridges, bare and rocky. At 3 miles the torrent bed is quitted, and the track turning to left (south) crosses an inconsiderable kotal by a narrow path. Beyond is a broader and smoother ravine up which the road turns east. It is good. This ravine also soon becomes small. At SJ miles the track ascends north- east to another trifling kotal. These two are the Kahiir Kand, The latter is over a clay slate ridge, and the road good. Thence eastward down a long narrow ravine. Good road. At about 4J miles cross a small neck leading to a side ravine. The main nala is left on the right, and becomes impassable. Somewhat high hills on all sides. At 4^ miles is a descent southwards. There is water at the foot. The same ravine is now followed west-south-west. It is called Kuriichf, and the hills, which are high on both sides, especially to left (south), are the Kuriichi hills. At 5 miles Kuriichi spring. Good Avater, but no room to camp. The ravine is narrow all the w;iy, and is here only G or 7 yards wide ; but the road is good. ( 53 ) At 54 miles turn south, still Tollowing tlic lulla. The K.-ilii'ir and Kuiiiclif liills are now left behind, hut the watereoursc is still a delUe, sunk among inferior ridi,'cs. lu front, at some distance south-south-cast, is the higher range called Siahdad. At about miles, the road haviuc,' left the nala (-which goes cast), turns to west, and thence leads between low clayey ranges. It is good. Girdank hill appears to he part of the Kuruchi range. It is seen here nearly due west, apparently about 5 miles off, and stands high above everything in the vicinity. It is an excellent landmark and is evidently the peak marked in Macgregor and Lockwood's map. At 7 miles reach a Avatercourse called Kasag rn'ish, and follow it at first south-south-west. Hills on the left 250 to 300 feet high ; those on right (west) quite low. Miles made his first halt from Balur in this kaur, and calls the distance 12 miles. There was no water when we passed. The Kasag Priish is followed through low clay hills in a general south- easterly direction for about a mile, when the track leaves it, turning west along small ravine. This kaur, like the others, goes away eastward. At 9 miles turn completely round the end of a low ridge from west to east, but soon again following the "watercourse to south, and tlien south-west. Road good all the way. The kaur now descended is the Siahdad. It is not quitted henceforward until the hills arc left 23 miles from L'rmara. At 9J miles pass through an outer range of the Siahdad hills. Thence south-west to the main ranges, the inferior ridges of which are entered at 10 miles. This part of the road is fair, but the bed of the nula, of firm set clnystone shingle, is not exactly pleasant travelling. Descent very perceptible. At lOJ miles the broad watercourse turns left (cast) under the first main range, and at 11 enters the Siahdad defile. Ilerc under a rock on the left hand (east) is a rain water pool and kafila halt- ing place. The water dries up in summer, but is now 1} feet deep, though there has been no rain for more than three months. Sometimes it is 3 or 4 feet deep. This place (known as Siahdad) is 15 miles from Balur. There is compara- tively open ground to north, but it seems altogether too rough for pitching tents. Troops, however, could bivounc comfortably enough, and the climate here is never very cold. "Wood and camel grazing abundant. Grass apparently scanty, at least in the immediate neiglibourhood. Elevation about 1,305 feet. The range in which the water lies is quickly past, but the highest range of Siahdad is beyond. The track bends south-cast crossing a hcnf (jdatcau), and regains na la at half a mile. This bent would make a good camping ground, but is not very near the water. Thenco enter the hills. The defile winds cast-south-east, and then east Heights are rocky and steep. The gorge (as far as I can remember) is iO or 5 yards wide. Track tolerable, over shingle firm set in a bed of clay. At 1^ miles turn south and quit the Siahdad ranges. The road continues to follow the broad and stony nala southwards, bending with it south-west at 2 miles. Here it lies through clayey hills, steep but not high. Steady descent of about 1 in 30 to 1 in 3.3 all the wav from Siahdad water. ( 51 ) At 3 miles the lulls close in somewhat, narrowing the pass from 300 or 400 yards to 50 or GO. At 3 1 miles the road bends south-west, crossing a bent, and is very good. On the left (south) is a considerable and rather regular range, the Abgir Koh. On the right are low hills near the road. At about 4 miles regain the kaur, here 200 yards across, and proceed along it west. Road good. Hereabovits is perennial running water, which we unfortunately did not see. It is knoAvn as Goram Bent, from the name of the next plateau (Zoramibeit of Miles). The supply is said to be ample. Wood, camel grazing, and grass abund- ant. Distance from Baliir 19 to 20 miles ; and if Slahddd rainpool failed, this \rould have to be the halting place. At 5J miles ascend left bank on to the narrow Goram Bent between the" Abgir Koh and the kaur. It is smooth and level, and would make an excellent camping ground, lload very good. At 5f miles the plateau comes to an end, and the nala is re-entered. The range to north is of some height, but less than Abgir. From here the watercourse bends south-west. The Girdauk Nala, from the mountain of that name, comes in on the north. At about 6^ miles the kaur turns south. Girdank hill is visible from here, nearly due north, and apparently only 8 or 9 miles distant. The broad w^atercourse bends round to east-south-east, and at 7 miles southwards, into the Abgir defile. Here the Abgir Xala joins from west. The pass, at first about 100 yards wide, winds east for half a mile, and then BOuth--west. Its width is now diminished to 40 yards. Heights on left are 500 or 600 feet and craggy. Bead, over cobble stones and small boulders, is tolerable. Good sized pools of rain water are continually met with from the entrance of the defile downwards.* At 7f miles the pass turns east. It is now very narrow, being partially blocked by detached rocks. In places the practicable way is reduced to 10 or 12 yards, and the road for several hundred yards round this corner is decidedly rough. It is, however, perfectly practicable for laden camels. At the end of the rough bit a rainpool, now about 1^ feet deep, is forded. The bottom is good. At 8 miles bend south-east. The pass now opens to CO or 70 yards, and its floor is smooth. Here is the kafila halting place known as ^Vbgir. A quarter of a mile lower down, the widening defile turns east, and there is a rather long straight reach under the last of the high Abgir ranges. Towards the end of this the track crosses a bent on the right bank. Road good. At 9 miles turn west-south-west, bending to west under the further side of the above ridge, and at 9^ miles again south, at which point a few yards are slightly rough. Another track leads under the hill to left to avoid this. The last turn leads through an inferior outer range. Here is the lowest waterhole of Abgir, and Ave camped by it, having marched 20| miles from Haretrak. The baggage mules were nearly 10 hours on the road, Avhich is a trying one for laden animals. There was plenty of water in the pool, and being soft and sw-eet rain water, it was highly appreciated by my people. "Wood and camel grazing (tamarisk) abundant ; also grass. • Miles' Alifjir n«s 3 iiiilcs from Zoniinibeit (Goram lieut), mid must, therefore, have beeu uear the entrauce of the gorge, two miles above where we ciuniied. ( 5.- ) The kaur here widens at once to 200 yards ; but tho best, indeed only, camping ground Mould be on somewhat hiy;h bents or gravel plateaux. These are on both sides ; the nearest is that to south-east. It is here narrow, but widens to soulh, and is smooth and level, lload on to it from this side would have to be improved for a few yards. Goram Bent is 5 miles from lliis idaoc. AVe ])asscd to-day small c.uiiel and duiikey kafilas laden witli driel fish from Urnuira. It is much warmer here. Minimum of thermometer in the night 42-5.° This Ahgir watcT is all from rain. At least the guides say there is no running water, but I believe there is a little. Anyway at this season it is pretty safe to count on a good supjdy, but it dries up about April. After that the road is rarely travelled. In addition to scarcity of water, the heat is no doubt very great. The heaviest rain in these parts falls in July and August {bnshfini), and high floods are not uncommon. There is said, however, to be no instance of the road having been closed on account of rain in winter, although a certain amount is expected about now. People hereabouts are Sangiir Baliich, ryats of 'Mil- Kalu'ra. Their chicd" is Kammar Khan of Kej. In these hills they muster about 100 men. With them arc a few Bizanjaos, the dominant race of south-eastern Mekran. Tuesday, 3rd Fehrnanj. — ICoiiALfiEX Bkxt. IS^ miles. From the last Abgir watcrhole southwards, inclining to cast. At IJ mih-s the road under the right bank turns westwards round the corner of a plateau. Scarped clay hills and plateau on the opposite (left) bank of the kaui\ (Here we passed a kafila of 12 camels carrying wheat and dried fish from Urmara to Panjgui-). The channel making a sweep to east, the track cuts off the corner, and re-enters it at about 2i miles. It then turns south to the AVakab range, under which it turns south-cast at 3^ miles. This is a scarped clayey range about '300 feet high. On the left (north) the kaur is only contincd by a high plateau. At 1 miles turn east, close und(>r the hill, which a quarter of a mile further conies to an end on a plateau, over which there is a track south-east. There are small rain-water holes here. Wakab is not a ridge, but a tolerably broad hill. It is continued to the east, but at some distance, by lower, clay hills. At about 1;} miles is a rainpool under the searped bank on the left (north) Bide of the nala. This is the kafila halting place knoAATi as "Wakab. Miles calls it 12 miles from Abgir ; but his halting place was evidently not the same as ours. On the whole I find my estimate of distances agrees closely with his. There is no running stream, although, of course, there may have been one in 1872. From here the road bends south-east, and lies near the left bank of the kaur. At about luiles there is a low sandhill on the opposite bank. It is called Janika Reg, and near it is a small piece of khushkawa land. No water. About here the clay hills begin to assume a llat-topped shape, and lie back from the kaur, which is very wide. Pish has now almost disappeared, and tamarisk is everywhere abundant. Below Janika Reg the niila is contracted to 2.50 yanls, and the channel further diminished by islands between which the track passes. The road is good. ( 5G ) Thence the nala bends south, and is broad, not less than 400 yards in uidth. It is joined on the left by the Garaiii IS'ala, and at 5 miles Lends round to south- east. To south is the llechuk range. A large but shallow rainjiool is passed here. The bends of the kaur are now great sweeps and not short turns. Patches of sandy soil occasionally appear in the bed, and the travelling is altogether easier than heretofore. At 8 miles turn east under Reebok. The kaur is 100 yards wide, and is bounded on the right (north) by clay hills 50 or 60 feet high, probably the Bcarp of a plateau. At 8-2" miles bend south-east passing Reebok, which is a narrow range. At 9 miles bend again ; this time south-west. Clay hills on both sides the kaur, which is very broad and pretty thickly grown with tamarisk. At 9| miles bend south-south-west. At 10^ miles is Gadag-i-Bent, a low plateau on the left bank. There is perennial running water in the kaur, and the bent is flat, affording ample room for encampment. It is, however, rather stony. On the opposite (west) side of the kaur are small clay hills, and on the east the plateau is bounded by very low ridges. The water here, being slightly saline, is not so good as that of the rainpools. Wood and camel grazing (tamarisk) abundant. Grass, apparently only drah, and scanty. Distance to Goram Bent about 15 miles. At 13^ miles bend south by west. Tlie road makes a bow line, n;nning parallel to, and near, the right bank of the kaur, which is here the scarp of a plateau. The kaur is a quarter of a mile wide. Low clay hills on the left bank. To south, bat at some distance, is the Taloh range, the last of the bills. At 16 miles the road turn southwards batween headlands or islands of plateau, and enters a sort of hollow or narrow valley through which the kaur runs. The water channel is crossed at 17 miles. It is broad and shallow. On either hand are long pools of rain water. Here is the kafila halting place known as Kohaluien Beat, the plateaux on both sides being so called. Theuce over soft alluvi;il soil, rather broken ground, with a good deal of scattered tamarisk and thorn jungle, and low scrub. At 18 miles bend slightly to the right fwest- wards). The track for soma little way lies in a small mila or channel, and is rather heavy. At 18| miles the track comes on a pool at least 100 yards long and about a foot deep. Here we camped. Good water and camel grazing abundant. Grass- {barshoii) moderate. The water is apparently perennial, as it runs a little, is, slightly saline, and is said to last right through the summer. The hollow is here 300 or 100 yards across, and the jjlateaux are therefore too far back (as well as too high) to be utilised for encampment. Ground, however, in the ucighbourhord of the water could easily be cleared of jungle, and would then be tolerable for camping on. It is partly soft and partly stony. From here Urmara rock is visible to south and south-east ; also Girdank, as well as the Abgir and other intervening hills, to the northward. People hereabouts are mostly Sangur. 1 he country is evidently a great grazing ground, and there was more than one camp in the immediate neighbourhood. In fact all the way from Kohvah the country is by no moans devoid of inhabitants, and we saw flocks of sheep and goats every day. It is now warm, but not implcasantly so. ]Minimum of thermometer at night 50.° Wedne.trlay, 4/h Februanj. — UEM.vr^A. f^S miles. ( 57 ) From camp cross the watercourse, and thence wind southwards throuoh broken sandy ground. At 2 miles ascend a low gravel i)la(cau sloping south. This is absolutely the last of the hills. The end of the Taloh range, a milo or more to the west, is now being past, and there is nothing beyond it. On the plateau the track turns south-west for Urmara. A path to the fishing vilhigc of Gazdan leads south. The Siahdiid unites with the Sulera Xala between this point and the end of Taloh. The latter watercourse comes from the north-cast, and up it lies the road to Chambur in Kolwah, From tho junction the kaur appears to take the name of RisiU, though the lower Siahdad is also called the Basul by some. The stones are soon quitted, and soft broken ground partly covered with tamarisk, &c., is traversed. At 4 miles cross the Easiil Xaur ; it is quite drv, and there is heavy sand in the bed. The track leaves it by a narrow and wiudiuo side nala. At 7 miles scattered date trees. Here is the kafila halting place of Basiil. No ^vater on the spot, but some in the kaur a mile or more west. It is a peren- nial pool. The country is now good level alluvial soil, sprinkled with tamarisk and a few dates, and thickly covered with lam and other small bushes. At 9 miles the road is fairly out in the open plain, in which is nothing but very low scrub. Some miles to east, where numerous nalas descend from Taloh, is jungle and khushkawa land. All the country under the hills is good grazing ground, occupied by numerous tumans of Sangiirs and Bizanjaos.* The Malan hills, beyond Avhich is llingol, are now plainly visible east- south-cast. The plain gets barer and barer until it is absolutely devoid of vegetation. Here are obvious traces of inundation, and this part is occasionally flooded by hill water. At l.j miles is a small ridge of rocks on the right hand (south). The road continues parallel to them for about 3 miles. It must not be supposed that because the country is flat and open the route runs straight to its destination. On the contrary it winds about without apparent cause between east and south- south-east in a rather irritating manner, as the march is quite long enough without being unnecessarily added to. At about 21 miles is a patch of verdure in the shape of a small gnrdcn watered l)y wells, one of which is pukka. Q his place is called Cliishc-chah or Chade-chah, or shortly Chad. Inside tho gardens are three cutcha wells, one of which is brackish. The pukka well and two or three cutcha ones arc outside. Water very good, but not very abundant. Dejith of the pukka well about 12 feet.t This and the garden were made by a Mr. Cox of the Telcgra;»h, but now belong to iMisri, the chief bannia of Urmara. There was a small cotton field outside the garden. Ample and good groimd for encampment. Camel grazing fair. Grass and wood rather scanty : nearest of the former is lurshua in the sand hills to south towards the sea. Prom Chad south-cast. t The track soon enters a long hollow, which looks like, and is, an old lagoon, the entrance to which has silted up. It is quite level and excellent tmvolling. • Tho fulpliur springs and small hamlet called Racb »rc •omcwhcro hero under TaXoh. t Ti.m' 18 net niii.li wiit.r in any <'l the wills l'"l if enililicd tlioy fill (Iiirii.p tlio niplit. Exro|it the pulla well end one cutcha iuUiepinUn, all are flife'litlyf aline. The water, however, would do very weU for auimals. Several "lafts now disused and cliokcd mipht ho reopened. ♦ To the telegraph hnngalow the shortest route would he south-west, across low sand hills to the Padezar (West Bay) hcaih, which is thcu followed right up to the house ( 58 ) -At about i miles arrive at the bcacli of Deraezar (East Bay), ahou*^^ 2 miles from the A^llage whicli lies at the extreme end of the isthmus close under the rock. Road good, over tolerably hard sand close to the soa. The telegraph bungalow is about a mile west of the village on the opposite side of the isthmus. Total distance 28 miles. Road good the whole way. The open countiy and smoother travelling area great relief after pursuing a painful way through so many miles of hills. Thursday, 5th Fehniciri/. —B-ixlted. Visited by the Naib Aladina, son of Alam Khan, Tamarari Bizaujao, Chief of Urnach, Avho is governor on behalf of the Jam of Las Bela. The water-supply of Urmara is from wells or small pits dug in the sand, as at Sunmiaui and other places along this coast. It is indifferent. There is one small sweet well near the telegraph bungalow. No place on the isthmus where troops could be encamped. If there were, the badness of the water and proximity of the ill-smelling village would render a more inland site advisable. Chad, 9 miles (see above), would seem to be tho best place for a camp and depot. The Demezar beach appears well suited for disembarkation, as it is of good firm sand for miles, shelves steadily, and ship's boats could come within 40 yards of the shore at any state of the tide. Urmara needs no further description than is already on record. It may be noted, however, that the rock, according to Captain Mockler, is 1,740 feet high.* It has a flat top, which the telegraph employes state is 4 or 5 miles wide in the broadest part. The top of the rock (7 miles long) slopes gradually to the east. The seaward face is somewhat broken, and there is a big ravine on that side, but towards Urmara is a straight unbroken scarp. One very steep and difficult footpath leads to the summit, and there are besides ropes hanging down the cliff in several places, by means of which the inhabit- ants ascend to get grass. This grows plentifully when there has been any rain. At the present time we got abundance for our horses. It was green and sweet. Friday, 6th February .—R^liQdi. The Indo-European telegraph has 3 European clerks here, besides native establishment. The bungalow is large, but completely occuined. Was most kindly received and assisted by the tele- graph officials. They undertook to see that a coasting craft was sent round for me to Hingol Avhenever I should require one, and I made an-angements with Basria Mai (Misri) the leading trader of the place, and farmer of the revenue, for the hire of half a boat Avhenever I should want it, Avhich I hoped might be in about six weeks. A register of temperature and rainfall is kept at Urmara. The climate seems very equable. Maximum of thermometer in summer about 85,° seldom rising to 90°.t With a land wind it may be hot for a few days, but not for long. In the cold weather maximum is 72° to 75°. Rain is expected in August — sometimes it falls in July. It is generally a heavy downpour, perhaps several inches at once, and then ceases. The winter rain should be in February, but is only mild showers. Sometimes, however, there is no rain at all, and this may occur for three years in succession. In this case it is probable that tho K61wah road to Balur, &c., would be impracticable for want of water. At the end of March and during April high Avinds occur, and severe dust- storms from the westward. • Its local name is BiitcL The fonniiticn appears to bf some sort of trappoid rock overlying sandstone, t These tempcratarcs arc taken iu the telcgiiijdi bungalow, a large solid building. ( 50 ) In May, June, and July damp misty weather broui,'lit on by the south- west monsoon. In Novemhcr also it is fnij^y. December, January, and l'V'1)runTy are in all respects Ibo best monlbs for moTinp: troops. The 'vrcather is settled and pleasant. 11" there is any rain, it would be an advantage rather than a drawback. There are six carpenters and three blacksmiths in Urnuira. The former are fairly skilful, and build the fisbini:,' boats beloni;ing to the port. Nearly CA-erybody in TJrmara speaks Hindustani. "With regard to the duststonus above spoken of, it is alleged tliat they were unknown 20 years ago. This seems a very remarkable meieorologieal fact, if true, but it is difficult to believe. The wind is strong enougli to shift the sand hills, although the latter are fairly covered with low elose growing bushes. It is said that the site of the village has been moved several times on account of unexpected encroachments of sand, and all Avithin the last 15 years. Of course there is a legend to account for this curse, for so it is not un- naturally deemed by the people. The story goes that about half a generation ago two faldrs visited Urmara, and one of them died there. The then naib seized his goods in spite of the remonstrances of the surviving pilgrim. The latter at once left the place, but before doing so cast a handful of sand towards tlie village with an anathema, the cfyect of which is felt in the duststormsof the present day. It is said that most of the sand blows across the bay from Pasni. In spite of the legend, it is probable that violent Avinds, accompanied by clouds of dust, occur at the same season over the Avhole country as far north as Kandaluir. I have experienced them at Kalat, in the Bolan, in Peshin, and in SlioraAvak. SeA'eral travellers speak of sandstorms in various parts of these regions about the same time of year. They are Avorth taking notice of, as it is conceivable that they might be a hindrance to military operations. Maximum of thermometer in the tent ... b~°. Jliuimum ... ... ... ... JJl"- Pleasant weather; at times slightly cloudy. Prom Urmara it Avas my object to find the shortest and best road into Kohviih, and from thence to the Gitchki valley, Avitli a view to ascertaining the most direct route practicable for troops from Urmara to Kharun. After much enquiry it appeared that the only route into Kolwah, except the one by Avhich avc had come, Avas the road to Chambur, and Ave took it accordingly. Salurday, Glh Fehruanj.—Qnxu. G miles. Pollowcd the Padezar beach. It is rather heavy. AVhen about 1^ miles from the conspicuous flat-topped rock called BiriKaliit, strike north-east across the low sand hills. Tliere is no track here, and the sand for a short distance is somewhat fatiguing to animals, but there is not much of it. The direct Basul road used by the telegraph people goes on along the beach to :Morpati lake, and leavmg that to the right (east), to Kuudelag, ll miles, Avhich is the first halting place. Thence to Basiil 8 miles. It is much cooler here than under the Urmara rock. Minimum this uiglit 48°. HeaA-y dew. Sunday, 7lh Febriiarf/.—CniL-x-'D\T (BasCl). Ifi miles. Elevation 2S1 feet. Went out of the way to visit Kuudelag, a cultivated valley bctAveen the low ransie Kannirdr, which is that on the Avest side of Padezai- bay, and Garokf ( 60 ) the next ridge inland. Hero tlicro are scattered hahvd trees and date palms, and a good deal of embanked kliuslikawa land. Only one well -n-ith iiot much water. There is a Avatershed between the ranges some distance up. Beyond is more cultivation called Garok. Both inhabited by Sangur Baluch. No village, only dispersed huts. Altogether they muster about 80 men. Baian is chief of Kundelag, and Shah Dust of Garok. The telegraph line, running in a north-westerly direction from the isthmus passes about a mile east of Kundelag (distance 10 miles), and skirts the last, rock of Garoki. From about here the Gwadar track {via Pasni ?) divides from the telegraph path, which continues under the wires to Basiil (18 miles). We left Kundelag by a gap in the ridge (good road), and thence over the plain to the highest water in Basiil Kaur (10-^ miles), crossing both the tracks mentioned above at an acute angle. Camped in bed of nala at a large pool, the nearest to the kafila halting place before mentioned. The telegraph line crosses about 3 miles lower down, and there is another halting place there also knowoi as Basul, the latter being an elastic term applied to any spot on or near the kaur. At telegraph Basiil is a post of the men charged with repairing the line in case of accidents. There is water in pools all the way down from here. A pool above and one below the telegraph line are perennial. No hamlet on the kaur anywhere, only tumans of shepherds. Telegraph Basiil is off the direct route from ]v6hvah, but it shortens the long march into Urmara. Kundelag would be a good place for a first march from Urmara if the water supplij were improved, and there is little doubt this might be done. Water would appear to exist in the valley at a depth of 12 to 15 feet. Local labour would suffice to sink 8 or 10 wells in 10 days or so, and there is every probability of the supply proving sufficient for a considerable body of troops. If detained for several days, their transport might go on to telegraph Basiil, where there is plenty of water, grass, and camel forage. Both Chad and Kundelag might be used as first halting places for troops bound northwards; and they had better be marched there immediately on landing. Officers should, however, be sent previously to prejiare the ground and water-supply. Morpati lake, passed on the road from Urmara to Kundelag, soon after leav- ing the beach, is a hollow filled by rain from the hills. There is almost always water in it throughout the winter, but it happens to be diy this season. It re- mains sweet for about three months after first filling, but gets brackish as it dries up, and when low the water is Oj^uite undrinkable. The proper name of the place where we are now is Tekas, or Chil-a-Baf, the latter being apparently the best known. The pool is perennial ; that is to say, it is not mere rain water, but lasts through the hot weather in ordinary times. Of course after 3 or 4 years drought this, and every other drop of water in the country, is likely to be dried up. The water of the Basiil Kaur is considered excellent.* The channel is here a quarter of a mile wide; banks alternately scarped and shelving ; bed sandy. Jungle of large tamarisks extends half a mile on either side of the nala. This affords abundant wood and camel grazing. Grass is also identiful ; it is coarse drab, but is found green in the side nalas. The best cara[)ing ground would be on the left bank above the water. Descent to the latter easy. • The^ools, howovLT, ai'c very luudJy, and the watiT requires clearing with alum to be iKilatalile to Europeans. ( Gl ) Monday, 8th Ffbntary.—'RtSGAs-A.-T)\T. 13 milos. Elevation 398 feet. This march is to the mouth of a small nala above Gadag-i-Beut, -n here the Chambiir road branches from that to Baliir. The track ascends the left bank of the kaur till the kafila route is struck, and it then follows the latter, passing Kohaliiien Bent at about 5 miles (vide diary of 3rd February). There is, however, a more direct track, which follows the Siilera "Sida. By this it is 20 miles from Chil-a-Daf to Gazi, nnd there is no intermediate water. Moreover the Siilera and Talur Kands, crossed on this route, are said to be diffi- cult, though lightly laden camels can get over them.* We took the longer road, as it appears the most suitable for troops. The nala opposite to the mouth of which wc are camped is riungan. It is distinguished as Kuleri. Bungan Kuleri is the name of a green prickly bush common in Sind as well as here. Minimum of thermometer this night 61°. To-day and yesterday very hot, and nights oppressive. Troops would not camp here, but at Gadag-i-Bent just below. Tuesday, Qth February. — CnETR.vo (Masid). 17 miles. Elevation 1,0S9 feet. Eastwards up the nala, which is broader than it looks from the outside. Aver- age width 80 or 90 yards. Ascent very easy, just percejjtible, and road good. Clay hills on either liand. These are scarj'cd as usual, and some are several hundred feet high. I call these hills, clay hills, because they look like cby at a little distance, and it is a convenient term. As a matter of fact, they are mostly composed of slaty shale, only differing from that of the high ranges to the north in being more decomposed. The original rock is in many places so disintegrated near the surface that it crumbles between the fingers. The surface of the hills is covered with a whitish earthy film exceedingly soft and loose. A few inches down, however, the rock is still pretty firm, and at the dejjth of a foot, where not exposed to the weather, it is as hard as brick. All these ranges are exceedingly weather worn. The action of the elements has cut and carved them into strange peaks and ridges, and every slope is deeply grooved. At least one side of every hill is scarped, often sheer down from the summit. The slaty shales are banded with met amorphic clayst one (at least I call it so for want of a better name). It appears of all thicknesses, but generally 6" to 18." The dip of the strata being always considerable, sheets of this claystone arc often exposed to the air, and then present a curious corrugated appearance. The cleavage being at right angles, it splits into rectangular fragments, not unlike bricks ; and where these are numerous, they make the ground mugh travelling. The clay ridges preserve the parallelism in common to all the ranges of the country, but this is only observable when at some little height above them ; otherwise they appear a tumbled mass of small peaks with interlaced spurs. When flat topped, it will be found that the shales are invariably overbad by a layer of conglomerate. There is little or no vegetation on these liills, but the large watercourses have a scanty growth of tamarisk, thorny shrubs, and pish. The clay hills are not peculiar to southern Mekran. They are found in many parts of Baluchistan. I do not know whether they are connected with the " Gaj beds " of Blandford and Griesbach. * These kjtadi ve on a cUy hUl range. Tbc; ara not high, and the dieBcnlty appear* to conaift u the it«opoeM of Iha nwrobubly tlie lowest I ( 07 ) of this portion of Kol wall. It is alisolutely nak(Ml, witliout even tlic smallest shrub or tuft of vegrtalion, and boars very evident traces of flooding. It was explained to us that this tract is a lake when any considoral)lc amount of rain falls, as the drainage of all the surrounding hills is here collected and cannot escape. It is said that the water occasionally reaches a depth of several feet.* No attempt is made to cultivate this plain, the soil, it is said, being too salt. On the opposite side of the valley to Chambur, and about 4 miles north therefrom, is Hor, a Naoshirwani village. At harvest time as many as 100 families are collected here. There is a fort on a mound, containing a well, and there is another well outside. Tlie land is khushkawa. The chief of Ilor is Baliich Kluin (a nephew of Azad Khan), the sajne whose depredations have driven the Kaodais from all their Kolwiih lands except Xag. He has himself however, been sufficiently intimidated by the Ufzanjaos to retire to Kliaran with the view of obtaining assistance (rom Azad Khan, Also on the opposite side of the valley, about 8 miles west of ITor, and 10 miles west-north-west of Chambur, is Madag. Here is a good deal of khushkawa land, and the village formerly consisted of 100 houses; but there are very few people living there now, as the inhabitants have fled to Gwarkop to escape from Baluch Khan. There are three weUs at Madag, and plenty of water for drinking purposes. The Madag Kand, described as a high pass,+ lies several miles north-cast of the village, and is approached by a ravine. In general characteristics it prob- ably resembles the Uodal Kand, and is on the same range, but it is said to be decidedly more difficult. The road joins the Urmara — Panjgur road just above the Gumbak halting place as already noted. Between Madag and lEor is a spring near the edge of the daman with a few date trees. It is called Shahi, and belongs to Baluch Khan of Hor. Chambur is a fort on an isolated rock some 80 or 90 feet high. The rock is steep (but not inaccessible) on the west, and the fort, in three tiers, crowns the summit, and extends down the east side. It is considered large and stron"- for this part of the world, and would probably hold 200 or 250 men, but might be defended by 50. All the walls are high enough to give good cover, and are well loophnled. The material is rough stone mortared with mud. There is a well in the outer enclosure, nearly 100 feet deep, and containing abundance of good water. Tiiis is the only well in Chnmbiir. The fort would no doubt give trouble, even to regular troops, if unprovided with artillery; but the new mountain gun would probably breech the walls, and the place seems rather a shell trap. It is com- manded by a low ridge on the south, half a mile distant, and rocks on the east afiford cover at much less. The surrounding soil is easily M'orked, and is now banked in some places for cultivation. Mandao Khan, Chief of the Umaniri Bizanjaos, resides with his faniilv in the fort. t Round about the base of the rock are clustered about 40 huts of the tribe, but not many people live here in winter. •In 1876 the Iiiglu-st flood known rciu-licl to the base of the low hilts south of Chmnbiir Fort. There the wi.ter wu knee deep, and iu the plain 6 feet. Tliescajion for flooiU is in July and August, but they do not by any means oceur every y^ar. t There arc said to be neri-n kotnls. From Mri.lnp the fii>t i.iiireh would lie t-. Kajhnia Rjwi, nhont 16 or 17 miles This is a niila wliieh joins the Kil Kaur above where the I'unjgur road erusscs. Kajlinia L« s inareh from UuniUtk where the Madag road joins that from Balur. ' I Heis.iotherenow.havinKg..netoAw,5r,(nwithsomo men to pnnish the M.rw^ris of IWi for plunderinjj ccrUin Unidrarls. His son ^ar Muliammad did the honours. He is a man of nUmt .W, and •.tni.k me as u'inir ii.lelli g.Mit. though resencKl It may be reui.rked here th,it a large numh.r of the iH«ple iu these ]Mrts are by reUinon '• iJikars, aud not Mushms. lar Muhuuimad is noted as being H«iMrr. * ( 08 ) There is plenty of room to camji, but the existence of only a single source of water-supply, and that iu the fort, would be inconvenient to a body of troops of any size. Grass is scanty aud brought from a long distance. Wood and camel grazing abundant.* Not many camels are bred in Kulwah, but there are many bullochs, and abundance of sheep and goats. These are mostly grazed in the hills to south. For some reason wheat does not succeed here. Barley only is grown, and barley meal is universally eaten. As there are no streams, there are no water mills. It is well to make a few notes regarding the state of affairs in Kolwah. Ever since reaching Khozdar we have been hearing a good deal about the dis- turbances in this district. Ivolwah is, in fact, always more or less disturbed, but just now the situation is rather more serious than usual. The present difficulty seems to have arisen out of the old affair between the Kaodais and the Naoshirwanis of Hor. The Naoshh'wanis who fu-st settled in Kolwah were few,t and lived very much on sufferance. As they became more numerous, and were certain of support from Kharan, they grew bolder; but it was not until the present Baliich Khan, now a man of about 60, became chief, that their neighbours seem to have had cause for complaint. Bakich Khan, however, is said to have systematically oppressed and plun- dered all weaker than himself. The Kaodais in particular, being peaceable and not very warlike, have suffered greatly at his hands, and last spring deserted Sigak, Eodakan, and Baliir — in fact, almost all their lands in K61wah — and went oft' to their fellow tribesmen in Gvvarkop. I do not know what amount of resistance, if any, the Kaodais opposed to the exactions of the Naoshirwam's, but it is said they paid tribute to Baluch Khan's father and grandfather. Abdul Karim, Mirwari, Chief of Bedi, and Naib of Kolwah and Mashkai, not only afforded no protection to the Kaodai, but desired to levy tribute on them himself. Whether he did this for his own advantage, or only in the way of collecting revenue for the Khan, is uncertain. It is, howe\er, apparent that being connected by marriage with Azad Khan, and in close alliance with the Naoshirwanis, he has encouraged rather than checked Baluch Khan in his evil practices. Last year. Fakir Khan, a small Bizanjao chief of Jao, married a daughter of the principal Kaodai Sirdar, and informed Baluch Khan and Abdul Karim that they need not expect to get anything more out of the Kaodais, as they were now under Bizanjao protection, and whatever they paid would be taken in future by himself and Mir Kahira. Thereupon lighting began. The Bizanjao made common cause with Fakir Khan and the Kaodais against the Mirwaris and Naoshirwanis, and an engagement took place at Bodakan, in which the former lost six men and the latter four; but the Bizanjaos seem on the whole to have got the best of it, and obtained some plunder from the Naoshirwanis. Here matters might possibly have rested had not a near relative of Mir Kahira Hasil Khan, died of a wound received in the skirmish. The Bizanjaos then declared thoy would continue the contest, and being too strong for their oppo- nents, both Baluch Klian and Abdul Karim have gone to Kharan to get assist- ance from thence. • With rrgard to the watpr-supplv , there are wells on the daman of the hills to south, but at some little distance. These are the Miirphi Ohiih, Kiirki Cliiih, and two others. Thtre is some water in the Murghi Kaur. and it issaid to b» ntiliied for tultivatiou. The Shandi Kula also contains a little water, at least at times. t See also Sir CluiilcB llacgregor's " Wanderings iu BilucListan." ( CO ) SiK'li, omitting details, is tho stato of afVairs, so far as tlioy can he made out from various confused and contradictory accounts. Tlierc lias been no fighting since the affair in Rodakan ahout six months ago. Tho asscmhled Bizanjaos after tliat marched to Awaran — almost within musket shot of T?edi — but the ]\rir\van's were apparently not strong enough to venture out of their walls, and after some time the Bizanjaos dispersed. It is expected, however, that as soon as Azud Khan's men come down there will be a more or less serious engagomont. The Khan's part in all this has been to summon Abdul Kan'm and [Mir Kahira to Kalat, but both have declined to obey the order. I believe he also sent the latter a small detachment of troops, and we heard once that they were engaged in besieging the fort at Sami. Once before Azad Khan sent a force into Kolwah. Tbis was some seven years ago*, and at that time Baliich Khan was in alliance with the Bizanjaos. The force was sent to assist his rival Lala, also a Naoslurwani, and it amounted, it is said, to 1,500 well armed men. The Bi'zanjaos, thinking this body too strong for them, retired into the hills, and there does not seem to have been any fighting. Suiuhi;i, lllh Februar!/. —M.iLiTX (ym Zik). 17.}miles. Elevation 2,211 feet. North-north-east over the plain to low hills called Sokali Par. The soil is good, but has evidently not been cultivated for some time. Kul6r, tamarisk, and ber trees arc thickly sprinkled, and a low scrub of laui covers the ground. At about 4^ miles reach tho liills and pass through them. Some cultiva- tion here. Thence the road turns north-east by east parallel to tho hills, but at about 5} miles divides, the track to Zik branching to the left, while that to ^kliihir is straight on. Through jungle as before. The ruinous fort of Zik is reached at 8^ miles. It is well situated on a large mound, probably artificial. The bviilder was Fakir ^Muhammad, Mirwari (but to be confused with the Bizanjao naib of the same name). We heard a confused story of Fakir Muhammad having fought, like every body else, with Baliich Khan of Ilor, and thereafter having gone on a pilgrimage to Mecca, where he died. At any rate the fort has been abandoned for about 8 years (since 1876). This Fakir ]\Iuhammad was a cousin of the present Naib,. Abdul Kan'm. There is a well in the fort, now choked, but it could easily be cleared. Another well is at the base of the mound on the west side. It is about 60 feet deep, and contains abundance of good water. Camels, sheep, and goats were being watered at it as we passed. There is some khushkawa cultivation about Zik belonging to Mirwaris. A good camping ground could easily be found. Wood, water, and camel grazing abundant ; but no grass fit for horses within some miles. The nearest is beyond low hills to the north-west. Met some Muhammad Ilasani shepherds here. This is the furthest southward limit of that tribe. From Zik through jungle as before, cast-north-east towards the low hills. At 1 mile from the fort is a well said to contain plenty of water. The road keeps along the cldmdn of the low hills (called Tobai), and at about 6i or G miles crosses a watershed, the exact spot being not easily distinguishable. ( 70 ) Thence over alluvial soil, with cultivation in several places. Small trees of kuler, &e., are ahuudaut. At 17^ lailes roach the first of the two Mdldi* villages. "We camped on the east side. Kolwah, which from the Panjgiir road eastward to Chamhur is an open plain 8 to 10 miles acrossj is here divided longitudinally hy a long range of low hills. Ahovit Chambnr the plain, previously lying west and east, bends up north-east, hut the curve is sufficiently gradual to be imperceptible to the eye. The divid- ing ridge, like tlie other hills, lies north-east and south-west. To its south- east are Marao — a flood basin (the word " marao " means a tract liable to inundation), the Eek-i-Chah halting place, and, to north-east of the latter, Gushanah. To north-west of the ridge is Zik, and to its north-east the Malar villages. Fortunately very little wind to-day, but it began to blow suddenly about Bun-down, and blew hard all night. The wind is from the north, and is chilly. It is evident that the windy season has set in earlier than usual, and there is every reason to fear gi'cat hindrance to Avork. Monday, 15th Fehvuavy. — Halted. Surveying. It would have been use- less trying to march to-day in a raging duststorm. The wind went down about noon, but began again at sunset. The chief of this place is Miisa Khan, a cousin of Abdul Kan'm. He in- forms me he once went from hence to Kharan. Eirst to the Gitchkf Kaur, in two days, halting midway at Doraski. Thence, by Sakan Kalat and the Mur- gap Pass, to Nagha Kalat on the third day ; from Nagha to Paliliaz on the fourth day ; and thence to Kharan in 2 or 3 days.* He is the first person I have been able to find who has been to Kharan by a direct south road, and his route is very much what I should have laid down from information received at various places. He confirms details already learned regarding the Pahlidz road, and it now only remains to personally explore the road from here into Gitchk, when we shall know as much about the routes from Urmara to Kharan as is possible without going right into forbidden territory. Malar consists of two villages — Miisa Khan's, at which we are camped, and another about a mile north-east. The maliks of the latter are Dosten, Miisa's sister's son, and ]Just Muhammad, stepfather of the latter. Both are poor look- ing collections of pish and mat huts, each having now about 120 of these hovels. Musa's fort is, however, much better than Dost Muhammad's, but that is not saying much. It is a small irregular structure badly built of rude mud bricks. The walls are about 12 feet high and loopholed. There are seve- ral towers. Inside is a well, 70 or SO feet deep, containing an abundant supply of good water. Another well is without to the east ; it has but little water, and that indifferent. At Dost Muhammad's village are also two wells, one within and one without the fort. There is a very fair amount of cultivation in the neighbourhood of the villages. The crops looked Avell for khushkawa, and more forward than at Chambiir. The fighting strength of the Mirwaris is said to be altogether 1,000 men. In Kolwah 400. The chief, Abdul Karim, is also entitled to the support of the cognate clans Kalandarani, Eodeni, Giirganari, and Sumalari. The two former inhabit Gidar, and are supposed to muster about 500 and 300 men respectively. The Giirganaris are found in • E:ich of thrsp stages is a tood diiy's ride ; for instance, from Malar to DoriSski is 32 miles. The route is almost entirely tlirouprh hills, ex.cpt the last part, whiih is sand desert. " Dordski" is of course some place on the kaur of that Uiirae, probably Zawardaui Daf. See Uoutes XI C, and XIA. ( 71 ) Jill and Likonan, and can 1 urn out about 700 men. Tli,- Siinialaris liave Kodak and Konis, and arc also l\jiuul in Grcsliak and Nal. The cliicf of the latter lives at Gidir, as bjfonj in.Mitioued. Th^'sc Sumalaris must be quite distinct from the ■Mingal branch of the same name, but it is extraordinary bow difficult it is to come to an understanding abont any Erahui tribe. In these parts the SumiUiri Mingils have never been heard of. All the above are supposed to furnish a contingent to Abdul Ku-im in time of wax-, but tliey have declined to join in the prc>£>nt contest with the Bjzanjaos. The Kainljaranis are not directly connected with the ^Mirwan's.* Giishanah is another Mirwari village, G or 7 miles to the south-east. It consists of a fort on a rock like that of Chambiir, and of, at most, 100 huts. The chief is Wal/ Muhammad. There are also a few Af irwaris about rtcg-i-Chah, said to 1)0 8 miles south of Malar. This placeis a well in Marao. The latter is described as an oval plain, or basin, receiving the drainage of Zik, Malar, Giisbanah, &3., and of course of the hills to north and south of those places. It dilfers from the basin west of Chambiir in not being cldk or clear plain, but is, on the contrary, covered with grass jungle, which, when there has been much rain, reaches a height of 6 feet or more. It does not seem to become deeply flooded like the other plain. Thei-e is no marsh as the name Mould seem to imply. It is also smaller, apparently long and narroAV. The grass is "-ood. When dry the old stuff is burnt off. rienty of ground to camp might be found about ]\[alar, and water from the two villages would probably be sufficient for a considerable force. "Wood and camel grazing abundant, but grass is scanty and brought from a distance. In the event of a force marching from Urniara to Kharan, by this route, either Chambiir or Malar would have to be made a depot. Latter for choice Marao mi(jht furnish grass; otherwise gmgs of men and local carriage would have to be employed to bring it in from the hills. Wind dropped to-day for a short time about noon, but soon reconimcnccd. The night was very cold. Tuesday, IGlh February. — TAlAr. 19 miles. Elevation 3,990 feet. The "NVbali road to Gitchk strikes about north-north-east from Malar, as- cending the ddmdn of the hills to where the Whali Kaur leaves the range called Haziir-guzi, or the hills of a thousand ibex. It is a good road, and descends into the nala at about 9 miles from ]Malar. I went past the .«econd village, about half way (!• miles) to Eazdar. Here there is a watershed from which both Malar and Bazdar are visible. To south- west the drainage is to Marao : to north-east the water flows to the lIinf6L river. AYe then turned north for the Whalx defile. No road, and the daman rather rough. At about 2 miles crossed a track leading to Gwarjak, &c.. It is shorter than the ro;ids up the valley, but indifl'ercnt. Joined the road where the latter descends into the nala, and turns up it into the hills. The pass is only dO or 50 yards wide, enclosed between high clay slate hills. The road is generally very good, and the gorge rather picturesque. After some miles, thj first high ranges having boen pissed, the hills become lower. The track is well marked, but several ravines join the '\^■llall, looking as largo as itself. Up one of these, called Jaki, ther;- is water, and tracks lead into it. The right hand road is the proper one. i irti in f hcso pnrta is that tliore wore tlirco brothem — Ahmnd, Kniiibar, and MiVu^from vluiin Ahmaclz.ai8 (niliug faiiiil.v), Uie Kaiiibarauis, and the Mirwdru on; respectively desevndcd. Ko duubt thii. ia comet. ( 72 ) At about 5 miles from tlie entrance (14 from Malar) three nalas meet, the most easterly being a trifle below the others. We discovered by the tracks that our bat,'gage had gone into this, and -were obliged to follow it, although the centre watercourse is the right road. After some 5 miles of galloping up a narrow but smooth ravine, leading eastward behind the ranges, we came on the baggage. It was then half an hour after sunset, and everything had been unloaded. So we perforce remained for the night. Water here from holes in the bed of the watercoui-se. No room even for our small party to camp. We had to settle down as best we could. Grass abundant. AYood and camel grazing sufficient. There is no road whatever up this ravine. It becomes impassable, except for footmen, a short distance higher up. The word Talar, which frequently occurs in this country, appears to mean inaccessible. Bitterly cold wind all day. JFesdnesday, 17th February. — T)tjzangaro.14| miles. Elevation 3,44-1 feet. Descended the Talar ravine for 5 miles to regain the proper road. This leads up the main nala, only divided from Talar by a spur. On the left hand is an elevated plateau. At \\ miles from the point where the road is regained {lx>\ from Malar) the Whali is quitted, and the track leads up a ravine in an east-north-easterly direction. This ravine is only separated fri)m Talar by a single narrow range. It is at first about 25 yards wide, but gradually narrows. The road is good. A track up the Whali is said eventually to join the Baliir — Panjgiir road at Zam. Tliere is no road into the Doraski Kaur. Some 2 miles up the i*avine (17 or 17^ miles from Malar) is surface water. According to the guide it is called Whali, though that kaur has been altogether quitted. At all events it is the first water on the road. There is no room to camp, and hardly even to bivouac. Half a mile up, however, is more water, and here troops might manage to spend the night on spurs to the left (north). Grass is tolerably abundant on the hills. Wood and camel grazing very moder- ate. From about the first Avater the rise becomes very perceptible, and the ranges on either hand are high and close. About \\ miles further there is more water. From hence the ascent is rapid In another half mile the ravine becomes very narrow, and the road, hitherto very good, is slightly rough for a few yards. A short distance beyond this, about 20 miles from Malar and 2 from the second water, the watershed of the ravine is reached. It is very narrow, and sunk between spurs of the clay slate ranges. This is called the Duzaugaro Kand,* and Duzangaro is also applied to the ravines on both sides. Last night's halting place is only just on the far side of the southern ridge, probably not more than a rifle shot off, aftsr more than 11 miles of marching. The descent is down a narrow ravine, and is very steep for the first few yards. After winding for about half a mile water is reached, and here is the usual halting place called Duzangaro. It would, however, be very incon- venient for troops, as there is no room anywhere. Thence follow watercourse winding in a general north-easterly direction. The average width of the ravine is 20 to 30 yards, but it is narrowed by rocks in several places. The road is good all along, and water appears at short distances. • Elevation about 4,125 feet. ( 73 ) n.-iltdl at al)Out 3^ iiiilcs from the kand. This is hardly a phico for troops, though they niiyht manage to l)ivouac along the ravine. Water good and fairly abundant. Grass {yurkao) very plentiful on the hills. "VVood and camel grazing moderate. AVarmer to-day and less -wind. Thiirsdatj, IHlh FeOniari/.—SxsT). 15 miles. Elevation 2,820 feet. Trom camp the ndia widens. It is enclosed between cliffs of crumbling slate topped with conglomerate and looking like the scarps of ))lateaux. The descent is rapid at first. At one mile a lai-go nala comes in from left. Thence the kaur is 40 yards wide, the bounding scarps lowei-, and descent gradual. Its general direction is north-east, and it runs tolerably straight for a considerable distance. At about 41 miles is some surface water. Immediately beyond is a left- ward turn through a narrow but short defile. Here slaty rocks leave a prac- ticable roadway only a yard or two wide, and the road is rough for a little way. The hills on either side are not more than 100 feet high, and easily accessible. This defile, like many similar places, is called Abgir. Distance from second Whali water 10} miles. There is more water beyond the defile, and the nala again bends north- east. Road good. At about 5} miles there is a southward bend round a small spur, and from thence the general direction is east. Koad stony and not so good. At about 6 miles leave the nala and turn left (north) up a small ravine. It is narrow and winds a good deal, but the road is good and hills quite insigni- ficant. At 7] miles cross a small kand. Tliencc descend another system of small ravines. The fall is considerable, and road in places narrow, but very fairly good. At about 8} miles gain the Doraski Kaiir, a large watercourse, the main drainage channel of this part of the hills. It runs from about north-west to south-east. The route from Bela to Panjgur through Awarau, leads up this nala for a long way. Awaran is two marches south-east. About 200 yards above where the road from Malar comes in, is a rather small, but deep, perennial pool full of fish. It is known as the Zawardam Daf water, from the junction of the Zawardam being just below. Ilcre would be the second halting place from Malar ; it is about It miles from the first halting place at Whtili second water. Could seeno2)lace to camp except the stony bed of the kaur, some 50 yards across. Water abundant and good. Wood, camel grazing, and grass moderate. The guides had all along been declaring that they knew little of the road, and had only a vague general knowledge of the country beyond the D()r;iski. In fact, the route by which we arc travelling seems but little used or known. The Sirdar had given them directions, and they hoped to find the next camping place without much dilTiculty. Followini; therefore Miisa Khan's instructions, we crossed the Uoniski, and entering the Zawardam, proceeded up it. The general direction was about north-west by north nearly parallel to the Doraski. The Zawardam is here a good width and tolerably straight. Hills on either hand quite low. The track is stony, but fair. After about l.V miles the nala is somewhat contracted by a thin sheet, or wall, of rock. Immediately beyond this (10 miles) it is seen coming iiom. ( 71 ) the north or north-uorth-wost, and we' quitted it, the track turning up a very- small and insignificant nala on the left. The latter soon widens to 10 yards with a gravel hottom. Eoad good. Ascending gradually through very low hills, we reached a watershed at ahout 11 miles. From thence a very easy and gently descending raA^ne of similar character was followed, at first in a westerly direction, and then south. At ahout 12 miles this opened into a large kaur, which v\-e all saw at once was the Doraski, and it hecame evident that we had missed Milsa Ivhau's road, as indeed might have heen expected. Here we were fortunate enough to meet two Siahpjid shepherds, the first people seen since leaving Malar, and after a talk decided on continuing up the Doraski to the mouth of the Gwani Nala, somewhere in Avhich the proper halting place is situated, but evidently too far to be reached to-day with oui- half worn out animals. Followed the kaur west-north-Avest. It is here about 80 yards wide, and increases rather than diminishes as it is ascended. Eise hardly perceptible. Plenty of pish and tamarisk in the bed, which is stony and not pleasant tra- velling ; but the road is fair. At about 15 miles ascended to, and crossed, a small bent on the right bank. Ascent and descent very easy. IS'ot far beyond this we found a pool of water, and camped near it. The place is said to be called Sand. Here wood and camel grazing were abundant ; also kashum grass in the nala and gurlcao on the hills. Water abundant and good. The pool is about 4 feet deep and 20 feet long. Only camping ground is the kaur itself, or the bent crossed lower down. Cloudy and cold to-day. Friday, 19th February. — Kavine undeu Gttaki Hills. 10 miles, marched 13. Elevation 3,747 feet. Up the kaur west-north- svest. Very soon it bends to right (north) Thence general direction north-west. Apparently a large plateau on the left : plateau and low hills on right. At one mile is water under a scarp on the right. Thence northward. The nala bed is stony, and road not very good. The kaur now narrows to 50 yards, and there is water continuously for more than a quarter of a mile A plateau on the right 30 feet high. Might make a camping ground, but wood and camel grazing not so abundant as lower down. The nala is now nearly straight for 1^ miles. Near the top of this piece^ on the left hand, is a very small ravine leading down from the plateau. It is called Azwi, and the spot is Azwi Daf. There should be water here, but we did not see any. Above tliis fat 2\ miles) the Doraski bends away to left (west), and is joined by the Gwani Kaur from the east. Sihayandat, a gap or defile, is a little higher up the Doraski. A rock over it is visible from Gwani Daf, and appears about f of a mile distant. Distance from Zawardara Daf to Sihayandat would therefore be between 9 and 9^ miles. The Panjg.iir road leading up Doraski was now quitted, and we turned to the right up tlie Gwani Nala hoping to reach the foot of the Gwani Kand Tlic Sialipadi met yesterday said there was a halk or camp of 3 or 4 tents some- herew in this kaur, and I rather counted on getting a guide there. Sowars had also been sent back to catch one of the Siahpadis if possible. ( 75 ) The Gwaiii lo:uls in a rjonn-al north-east (lin-otion. It is aLout 50 yards wide, rather increasing in uidth as ascended, and bounded l)y broken plateau and low hills. Tlio bed of the uala is stony, and only a faint cattle track disccrnal)lc. After proceeding about two niil(>s we caught sight of a man, a woman and a donkey. The trio perceiving us at the same moment at once fled up a small ravine to the jilateau on the left. Here was an unexpected chance of getting a guide, or at least some information, so we dismounted and gave chase, but not all the blandishments of the Baliich sowars could prevail on any one of the three to i-eturn. The woraxu used her only ivcap on, ci^., her tongue, with much perseverance, Avhile the man, lighting his match, retreated from one small eminence to another, vowing he would be the death of any one who approached him. It 'vas then gravely suggested that I should show my- self by way of convincing this hero that we were what we represented ourselves to be, and not Naoshirwanis. But even the sight of a terai hat and an ulster failed to inspire confidence, and we were obliged to continue our way without obtaining the desired interview. At 0.^ miles the guide {Incus a non lucendo), after some hesitation, elected to leave the Gwaui and turn up another nala coming in from the north. A sort of a track leads up this nala, which is about 10 yards wide. Hoad very fair. At 8 miles it narrows to about 20 yards. The sides are broken. From about here the ascent becomes very perceptilde. At 9 miles the nala wound through low clay slate hills. Its bed is filled with pish and small trees. At 10 miles is water. The ascent is here considerable, but road good. The gviide now ascended a hill to spy out the land, and coming down announced that the nala was hand or impracticable. Somewhat doubting this I set off to walk and see. There is water for some distance up. The nala is about 10 yards wide and full of vegetation. It winds a good deal, and the hills on either side are high and steep. After about 1} miles a dyke of rock across the bed effectually stops the progress of any four footed animals except goats. We had evidently missed the road altogether. I went on to the crest of the range,* a stiff walk of about 2^ miles further. From thence an extensive view over the hill country between Gitchk and Kolwah. Kiilan peak was visible to the north-east, and Drun to the south-east. The Gwani Kand is evidently some distance north-east or east-north-east, and it seems very doubtful if we shall ever reach it, as we have only two days grain. The ascent of this range will, however, be of some use from a surveying point of view. Sent down and ordered baggage to unload at water, but they had already reached the impassable place, and had to retrace their steps. The rumour of a large force coming down from Kharan seems to have frightened everybody out of this country. The sowars sent to catch one of the Siahpadis returned without having been able to find anybody. A small tree bearing edible berries grows plentifully in the ravines of this range. It is called by the people •' gwan," hence the name of the hills ; but it is not the same as the well known gwan of Khurasan. » Elcvatiou cstiinatoJ about 1,500 fet't above caiup, say 5,200 fctt ( 70 ) Pine to-day and fortunately clear. Very cold on the top of the hill. Salunlaif, 20th Fehruanj. — Zawardaji Daf. IG miles. Elevation 2,718 feet. Down the nala to its junction Tvitli the GAvani, 3 miles. Turned up the latter hoping to find the lialk said to he somQwliere here. The nala is of the same cliaracter and about the same size as before. After going 2 miles (5 miles from camp) observed camel tracks coming out of a very nan-ow ravine on the right. Ascended a small hill to have a look round. No sign whatever of human life could be discerned, and probably the people formerly camped on this nala have departed to the south. The track in the ravine, however, could be seen for a little way, and appeared well marked and to lead towards Zawardam Daf — to be, in fact, the road by which we ought to have come, and I decided to take it. The Gwani Kaur was observed running north-east up into the hills ; but tbe ranges are somewhat intricate, and to find the pass without a guide might have taken us a week. It is a road that is very little used, and as a cattle track of some sort leads up every ravine, we might try a good many before hitting on the right one. Without a guide there was nothing for it but to find our back to Zawardam Daf, for which indeed we bad to rely on such observations as I had been able to make from the crest of the range, as the guide (who bad also been up there) declared himself perfectly confused, and declined to offer any opinion whatever. Turned to right (south) up the small ravine. There is a little water close to the entrance. For some way it is enclosed between rocks, and is exceedingly narrow, but a laden camel can pass. After 100 or 150 yards more open. The watershed is quickly gained, and from thence are two paths, one straight and the other leading down another small clay slate ravine to the south- west. The latter had the well known sign of practicability,* so wc took it, though with some misgiving. The path was very good and led down into a somewhat larger watercourse, and so on, winding through small ranges, till a considerable nala was struck at about 2 miles (7 miles). We hoped this might be the Zawardam, and such it proved to be. Continued to descend the kaur, which very much resembles all the others hereabouts, except that it led through hills rather than plateaux. At about 4 miles (9 miles) to our great content it began to bend round south-east. Below this the bed is slate rock, rather rough, but not difficult for camels. Here there is abundant water, which is evidently perennial, and runs down for at least a mile. The nala winds a good deal, but the general direction is south-east. At 11 miles it passes the west end of the Zawardam Koh, a hill about 700 feet high with a flat top in the centre and small peak at each end — an un- mistakable landmark. From thence the bed of the nala is more stony, and the road not quite so good. At 1-1 miles passed the place where we had quitted the ndla two days before. Here there is a rather rough bit. At 15^ reached the Doraski and turned down it. This kaur, running south- south-east, turns south about half a mile below the junction. Halted beyond * A siiinll pile of stones put ou tlie top of one another. Stones laid in line across tbc track denote that it is land, or impracticable. ( 77 ) this ncnr a ?oo(l pool nndor iho ri-lit bank. A hont on (hn loft bank affords good camping ground for a dotachniput, and a larger bent just above would accommodate several battalions of native troops. Wood, vater, and camel grazing abundant. Grass from the hills moderate. Fine day ; pleasantly warm. Sunday, 21sl i'>ir»fo-y.— Aw.Ulx. 22 miles. Elevation 1,933 feet. At first southwards, but the kaur soon turns rather to the left (east). At 1 J miles again south, but soon resumes an east-south-east coiu'sc tend- ing to easi. On the right is a cliff, about LOO feet high, called Doruski Dat; the hill of which it is a scarp is known as the Doraski Diit range. At 2J miles turn south through this range, the kaur being nan-owed to 50 yards. Its bed is very stony, but there is a tolerable path under the rocks on the right. Below this the Pasdyan Nala comes in from the left (oast-north-cast) From hence is an extremely good bit of road over fme gravel to left of the nala bed. At 1 miles bend round to south-west. At 4^- miles the kaur is contracted between scarps to a width of 10 yards. Eoad stony, but tolerable. Just below is a small pool on the left. Thence bend south-east round to cast. The road is stony. At 5 1 miles turn to the right (south) and pass through a range. The kaur now contracts, and at G\ miles is a short gorge, or gap, not more than 80 yards wide, by which the watercourse escapes through the main ran"-c, which on the right is called Askani, and on the left Kandahar Koh.* The cliff on the Askani side is 500 feet high, and that opposite not much less. There are perennial pools of water under the rocks. From Zawardam Daf to this point the Doraski has been making its way through successive narrow ranges in a general south-east direction. Each cap is 40 or 50 yards wide, but short. Between them the average width of the nala is 80 or 90 yards, and it is enclosed by scarps about 100 feet high. There is a good deal of tamarisk, Sec, in places. The bed of the nala is stony, but road very fair. On passing the main range the kaur runs east-north-cast for a short distance. A spur of Askani bounds it on the south. It then turns south, then east, bending south-east at 8 miles. The Kandahar Koh is now seen towering on the left, and the kaur is very wide, a sort of basin being formed by the confluence of nalas from the hill. At 8.V miles the kaur turns south leaving the high hills. Its breadth is 80 to 100 yards, and it is enclosed by scarps of no great height, which arc soon succeeded by low ridges parallel to the main range. For about 2 J miles its course is fairly straight. The track disappears hero and travellers pick their way over the stones according to individual fancy. At 11 miles there is a rock on the right noticeable for two miles back, is called Tirtejh, and there should be abundant water at its foot. We found, however, very little showing. Probably the last flood shifted the gravel so as to nearly choke the pool. There is plenty below the surface. • The Kliandnliar Koh is saiJ to bo so collcil hccansc it is high enough to be occasionally covorcd with snow in winter ; and thu3, ncconling to tbo ideas of tho Uckrami, rosciablc* Iho lulls about Eaudoliir, wliich i5 imagiued to b*- au exceedingly cold pliicc ( 78 ) As this spot is midway Ijetweon Awarjin and Zawardam Daf, it is commonly mxde a halting place by travellers, but I could see no place to pitch a camp. Grass is very scanty. Wood and camel grazing abundant. From Tirtojh the kaur turns sharp to the right (west), but soon again south, and at 11| miles passes through a gap in a small range. Deep holes on the right were quite dry. Thence leave the kaur and, ascending the right bank, strike south-west along a sort of valley a mile "wide between two parallel ridges. Tliis way is rather longer than following the watercourse, but bettor going. At 13| miles gain the Bazap Nala, and follow it south through the ridge hitherto on the left. The Bazc4p is a considerable watercourse thickly grown with tamarisk. In fact, the amount of jungle makes it difficult to tell the exact point where the Dordski is re-entered. The latter is now a quarter of a mile wide and runs south-south-east. Confused low hills on both sides. There is no track here, but it seems best to keep near the right bank. Water in several places. It would appear that if the water under Tirtejh rock is insufficient, a good supply may be counted on not more than two miles lower down, and a camping ground might be formed on some neighbouring plateau. There is drah grass in the nala. Wood and camel grazing abundant. At 15J miles turn to the left and leave the kaur. A well marked track now leads through low rocky hills, winding here and there, but having a general easterly direction. At 17| miles a very low kotal is crossed. At the foot of the ascent is a path leading from Bazdar, 10 or 11 miles south-west of Awaran, inside the outer hills, to Gwarjak and Gajar. At last the hills become mere gravel undulations. From the very last there is a considerable descent, at lO^- miles, to the plain, which is here partially cultivated. The Mirwari hamlet of Mulla Murad is left on the right at 21 miles. Awaran is reached at 22. It Avas long after dark when we got there, and we learnt that the baggage, arriving about sunset, nearly had a warm reception, as the people of Awaran were expecting an attack, and took our party for enemies. Fine, pleasant day. Monday, 22ad February. — Halted. Surveying. Went about 6| miles on the Bazdar road (south-west). The Doraski in several stony channels is crossed at 2 miles. Here jungle of tamarisk and accacia is thick. A long and deep pool in the kaur where the road crosses. Thence through jungle, gradually getting thinner ; low rocky hills running parallel on the left. The tree jungle is interspersed with large open spaces grown with drab grass. There are many pig in this coiintry. We saw their rootings right aAvay up in the Zawardam Nala. Bazdar has a fort on a mound, round which are some 70 or 80 huts of Bizanjaos. Water from wells. There is a good deal of khushkawa cultivation in the neighbourhood. Awaran is a fort of the ordinary description biiilt on a mound. The walls are high and carefully loopholcd. There is one large tower. The Avhole appears to be in very good repair. One well inside the fort and three out. Around are clustered some 60 huts of Bizanjaos. This place belongs to Safar Khan, brother of J\lir Kahira, Blzanjao chief and naib of Mekran. Safar Khan ( 79 ) is now at Niil collecting a force to oppose the Mirwan's and tlioir Xaoslu'p- wani allies. Azim Khan, son of his first cousin, was in charge of the fort and did the honours. Ilis own son Ilasil Khiin is recently dead of a wound received in the affair at Rodakiin in November last (1881). See page G9. A certain amount of land about Awiiran is watered by a stream from the Mashkai Kaur. AVheat is cultivated, but barley is the principal crop. Grass is difTicult to procure, being brought from a long way. We got kasCl, and bhiisa would be procurable after the harvest. Mulla Murad is a small fort and hamlet of about 20 liuts one mile north, west of Awanin, The people are :^rirwarls. There is one well inside the fort and two outside. The land is watered by the same stream from the Mashkai Kaur that irrigates Awjiran, and there is said to be a karcz to the west. There are no bannias permanently resident in Awaran, nor indeed were there any in Kolwah, though there happens to be one now at Bedi. Many bannias, however, visit the district in spring and summer to purchase Avood and glii. A little grain is also exjiortcd. Both Bizanjaos and Mirwan's own very largo numbers of sheep and "oats, which find good pasturage in the surrouudiug hills, llorned cattle are also fairly numerous. Bedj is a fort and village of about 10 huts of Mirwaris, three-quarters of a mile north-east by east of Awaran, on the left bank of the Mashkai Kaur, whose stony shallow channels fill up the whole space between the villages. There are three wells here. Bedi l)clongs to, and is one of the residences of, Mir Abdul Karim, :Mirwari chief and naib of Kolwah and Mashkai. He is now in Kharan — e. th February. — Halted. Was awakened during the night by my surwan rushing up from below and calling out that one of the two riding camels had been stolen. The horses and camels were in the lower yard, and two sowars and the surwan slept with them. Tlie space was only about large enough to contain the lot comfortably. Nevertheless a camel had been taken away, passing within a foot of these three men's heads. Sobat Khan the Easaldar, and all the men at once rushed out into the darkness, leaving me to mount sentry till they returned, somewhat crestfallen, in about half an hour, and of course without having done any good. I then directed Sobat Khan to send round quietly to two or three small camps that we had discovered were in the neighbourhood, and see if any news could be picked up. The guide and two men started at once, and at daybreak the Ilasaldar reported that near one of the camps they had heard a number of men moving, and on challenging them the latter had taken to a small hill and lighted their matches. Some parley then ensued, in which the men aforesaid declared with much warmth that we had been behaving very badly in cutting crops and in taking the lamb (this was the first I heard of the latter). The guide recognised the voice of a certain Muhammad Hasani called Murad, and had gone with one of our men to fetch him if possible. About an hour later Murtid with several men was reported to have arrived, but they declined to come near the fort. Sobat Khan accordingly went to talk to them. After a time I thought it better to see what was taking place. Munid was a villanous looking old scoundrel, and decidedlj insolent in his demeanour. He had four men with him, all armed with matchlock and talwar, &c. Sobat Khiin and the Baliich guide sowars were furious, and I had to exert my authority to prevent them attacking the robbers, for such no doubt they were. Being six well armed men, besides the guide, who was delighted at the prospect of a shindy, we could easily have fallen on Muriid's camp, of at the most 15 or 20 raggamuCTnis, and made them pay very dearly for the niglit's amusement ; and according to the custom of the country this would have l)een the proper thing to do. Of course all the Mirwaris in the neighbourhood, mIio ( 8i ) looked upon us more or less in the light of enemies from having a Bizanjao guide, would have joined, and there would hare been a very pretty tumasha. Unfortunately British officers cannot right themselves in this manner and in the present instance it would not have fulfilled the primary object of getting back the camel, which had doubtless been driven away into the hills. Provoking as it was, therefore, to be bearded by such scum, I was obliged to say there could be no fighting. After a good deal of talk about the kasil and the lamb, Murad said he would go and look for the camel, if I would give him Bs. 10 for its recovery. This was promised, and he departed, saying he would return by midday. TTe now thought the camel would be restored, and set ourselves to wait with as much patience as possible. About eleven our watch was enlivened by the appearance of some dozen matchlock men, whose leader gave his name as Glmlam Alf, and said he was a Mirwdri and retainer of Abdul Kan'm. Having hoard that I had lost a camel, he had collected a few men and come to assist in its recovery. This dis- interested conduct, however, was quite lost on Sobat Khan, who refused further parley, and wanted to open fire on the new arrivals, declaring they had simply come to keep us where we were during Murdd's absence. After some time, Ghulam AH, from a distance, bellowed a humble request to be allowed to come in and talk. He and one man were admitted, and the pipe of peace went round. It was at once discovered, as indeed we all along imagined, that the fields belonged to Abdul Karim, and any claim to compensatiou for damage could only be made by the Mirwarls, and certainly not by Murad. The latter however, was actually the proprietor of the lamb. About two o'clock Murad returned \\ ithout the camel, saying he was afraid we might attack his tuman if he stayed longer. He had left men on the tracks of the animal, and it would no doubt be brought in by night. Ghulam All also professed to believe that the camel would certainly be brought back. I was now fairly disgusted, and would have marched ; but Sobat Khan was of opinion that these delays were only intended to enhance the reward for recovery, and that the camel would make its appearance if we stayed till next morning. As the beast with his saddle was worth Es. 100, and his loss was besides a great inconvenience, I agreed to wait. Much talk, to which I paid no attention, went on during the afternoon and evening. Sobat Khan, an excellent young man, and himself of Sirdar's rank was extremely irate at the indignity that had been jiut upon iis; and I heard him abusing all the Jhala-nans from the time of Kambar downwards, and ex- plaining how impossible it would have been for such a thing to happen in his country. About 10 at night he reported that Murad had acknowledged to Ghulam All havinr possession of the camel, and plainly said he wanted Es. 50 to give it back. By degrees this sum diminished to Es. 20, and compensation for the lamb and kasil. It was now quite evident that Ghulam Ali and Murad were acting together in a barefaced attempt to extort money from a sahiby who appeared too weak to offer resistance. Of course I declined to give one farthing more than the Es. 10 originally promised. Previous to this I had told Ghulam AH that if, as Abdul Karim's repre- sentative, he wished to be of assistance, I would be obliged to him to let me have a camel for hire to replace the one stolen. He declared his Avillingness to give us one for nothing, and also volunteered a statement to the effect that ( 85 ) it was absurd to talk alioul com])riis;i path up to it, from the Arah Kaur gorge, and this is only practicable for donkeys. There is also a footpath called Chak from the west. Elsewhere the frowning scarps are inaccessible, except in rare instances, and to a practised mountaineer. To the summit of Washa})!, however, there is a camel track from the Bela road. Both Drun and AVdshapi are said to literally swarm with ibex, but there are very few oorial, these animals preferring lower ground. The small hill leopard also abounds. Besides the road to Mashkai crossing upper Kolwdh, there arc two roads to Awdnln. One is the Zidrat road (see Eoutes) ; the other leads over the Gab- aroh Kand, but it is a bad road and impracticable for laden camels. There are no forts in Jao, and no villages properly so called. Small collections of huts are, however, numerous, and the country may be considered well populated. There is a good deal of khushkdwa cultivation, especially to the north-cast in Peldr, &c., but no irrigation, tlie people being incompetent to raise the water of the Ndli Kaur from its deep bed. The country is really well wooded ; in fact, along the banks of the kaur there is almost a forest of tamarisk, accacia, ber, &c. Ldni and other low country scrub is abundant; so that Jao much resembles some portions of Sind. Large flocks of sheep and goats are seen everywhere, both in the valley and on the surrounding hills. The people also own cattle and a great number of camels, the country being well suited to the latter. North-east of the Bela road the inhabitants are exclusively Bizanjaos, the following sections being represented : — Umarari, chief man Fakir. Ilamalari „ Lai Khan, Chandl „ Mir Dost. Ninduwari „ Aladah. To south-west of the same line, the land belongs to Mirwdrisf, whose head is ^Uam Khan, but they are rayats of Mir Kaliira, and all Jao is included in the " rdj " of that chief. Jao is in the province of Jhdlawdn, and not in Mekrdn. It is considered to belong to Xdl. Suudaij, 28th February. — AoGHixf. 1\ miles. Elevation 1,532 feet. Should have liked to halt a day, but hearing it was farther to Kingul than had been supposed determined to move on. Crossed the river and turned down the left bank. General direction south-east through thickly wooded and somewhat broken ground. Very soft soil. • Excellent jowari is growu od Oruo, besides mdonj, ie. | t About 100 men. ( 90 ) At about 1\ miles bend east. Here the country is more open, but still thickly studded with trees, mostly accacia. After another mile inclined east- south-east, the trees getting smaller and further apart. At 3J miles entered a bare gravel tract, ascending slightly. After quarte of a mile strike a track leading south-east. This is the Bela road apparently coming straight across the valley from where we left it yesterday on quitting the hills. To go to Alam Khan is therefore a detour, but not a very long one. At 4i,'iwar. It is a favorite restini^ place, as the water below hero is said to be very salt for a long way. Plenty of room to camp but the ground is rather stony. AVatcr abundant ; also wood and camel grazing. Some gurhto grass. This march in point of time was as long as that of yesterday. Still there are really no difficulties. Wednesday, 3rd March. — Pohal-a-B£\t. 21 miles. Elevation 300 feet. Crossed the nala diagonally ; then over a plateau south-east by south, the kaur going in a deep bed to the right. At If miles crossed the channel. Thence south-west over an alluvial flat. At 2 miles crossed again. Ground alluvial and stony. Direction south south-west. After about half a mile again met the kaur under a clay clilT, Cross and turn west. At 3} miles climb the side of a high plateau and turn along it south. At one point the bed of the nala is close below on the left. Thence an easy descent to a gravel and alluvial flat gained at 34- miles. Here turn south-west. At 4 miles west-soUtb-wcst. Gravel and alluvial flats, and road very good, but it is provoking to make so much westing when the direct course is nearly south. At LJ miles west. The kaur is near at hand on the left. At 5^ miles pass the end of a small isolated clay hill. It is scarped on both sides, and the base appears to bo but a few yards thick. There ai'c hundreds such, but one of the most striking peculiarities of the strange little hills is seldom so observable. Ilencc bend west by south. At Ci\ miles outer tlie kaur, and pass alon" it westwards. The track is stony and sandy, and the bed of the watercourse is filled with old half dead tamarisk. At OJ miles ascend the left bank, bending south-west, and gain (at 7 miles) a high plateau by an easy ascent. Thence south-south-west. Gentle descent to an alluvial flat, and cross the kaur at 7^ miles. Beyond is another easy ascent to a stony plateau, on which the track tui'ns wcst-south-wcst. Again a gentle descent to an alhnial flat. At 8i miles the kaur, and straight on over it. Easy ascent to a gmvel plateau and turn south. Descend again gradually to an alluvial flat and turn south by east. At 9^ miles cross the kaur, gaining right bank by a slight ascent. Thence pass over a small rise. At 10 miles bond west, and shortly aftcrwar.ls wc4 by north aero'^s a wooded flat. The road so far is very good, but monotonous and uninteresting. The lo^v clayey hills are continuous on either hand, enclosing a sort of valley, a mile or so wide, from side to side of which the nala winds, the road maintaia- ing as straight a course as possible over the adjacent flats. ( 91 ) Tlie kaur is now crossed from the right to the left bank ; its bed is sandy. Then, at 11 miles, a stony flat, on wliich turn west by south. Here, however, are a few traces of cultivation. The place is known as Piroshi Bent. Thence west-south-west, bending west over a sandy fiat with low scrub. At 12 miles a nala from the left, which is crossed, and also the kaur ; after- wards a stony flat with tamarisk jungle. Thence cross the kaur diagonally westwards and turn south over a bent. At 13 miles cross the kaur diagonally south by west, and ascend right bank to a stony flat, bending south-south-west. At 13| miles ascend to a gravelly plateau, bending south through undulat- ing stony ground, succeeded by a small stony plain surrounded by small eleva- tions. The kaur is some distance on the left. At 15 miles bend to the right through low hills, and after a slight ascent turn southwards. At 15} miles east-south-east, and descend a very narrow ravine winding south-east through low clayey hills. At 15f miles turn to right (east) up a small side ravine to a watershed, thence turning south and quitting the hills almost immediately. Beyond them is the kaur 150 yards wide, and running from east to west. The track turns down it south-west. At 17j miles is Shiire Ap. Water under a clay scarp on the right bank. Here is the ordinary halting place. On the left is a stony plateau, which might make a camping ground, but there is probably a better place below, a little off the road. • Wood, camel grazing, and drab grass abandant; also some giirkao. Being anxious to reach the river, we pushed on, ascending the left bank of the watercourse, and turaiug south over stony ground. After a short distance bend south-east over alluvial flat. The kaur is now seen going away south by west. The country is now more open. There are low hills in front, some of them rocky, and clay hills to the left up to the base of the high ranges here called Giirangat. The track crosses an alluvial plain, with low scrub and scattered tamarisk, for about 1^ miles in a southerly direction. Thence, ascending to a slightly higher level, it enters a stony and broken track, crossing some small watercourses. General dhection somewhat east of south towards a small but conspicuous clay hill. The base of this is reached at about 20} miles, and the track winds round its left, and turns west-south-west descending a shallow watercourse. At 20f miles turn south and reach the left bank of the Hingol river (here commonly known as the 3Iazane Kaur (or " big nala"). It comes from north- west, and stretches away south to the high hills, now only a few miles off. Where reached, the bank of the kaur is scarped, and one has to proceed a short distance further, making a slight detour to the left to avoid broken ground on the bank. At about 21 miles, 3| miles from Shiire Ap, descended to the river and camped there under left bank. Wood, water, and camel grazing abundant. Gurkao grass on the hills. The best place for troops is probably on the right bank, which is more open than the left. The bed of the kaur is about 200 yards broad, stony in some places, clayey and sandy in others, and well grown with tamarisk jungle. The banks, generally scarped, are 10 or 12 feet high. The running stream is neither large ( 95 ) not swift. In places is spreads out to a consideraLlc breadth. The water is sweet and good, but sli|,'litly muddy. The name of this phice is dorivcd from tlic range to right (west) of the gorge, which is called i'ohah Turning northwards the western half of Dri'm is seen to be much lower than the eastern under which we passed. The I'iver comes round the west end, about west-north-west fiom licre, and is somewhere there joined l)v the Parkiui Kaur, which we crossed two marches south of Cliambur (11th Eebruarv). There is a place in the low part of Driin called Roden-i-Kachao, Avhere tlicrc is a spring and some trees. There is generally a Eizanjiio camp about there, and the spring is well known as a watering place for flocks. Oi-derod two sowars to start early to-morrow morning for Urmdra to tell Basria Mai to send a boat round to llingol. There is a Bizanjao camp on the kaur about a mile south-cast. The road to-day was good all the way. Thursday, 4lh March. — Gwand B£nt. 8i miles. Elevation 103 feet. Start down the kaur southwards, inclining south-south-west. A good road through tamarisk jungle, but rather sandy. At 1:1 miles enter the broad clear channel of the river, and turn down it south-east. After some distance the stream is crossed, and as the hills are entered, the road is rough, over large stones. At about 3 miles one is fairly within the defile. The stream is now crossed again to the left bank. Ucre it is shallow and stony, but immediately below commences to be deep and still, almost completely filling the bottom of the gorge. At about 3| miles is a ford, 1 feet deep, and 25 yards across. The bottom is of firm sand, and camels cross without difficulty, as the current is almost imperceptiljle. A quarter of a mile lower down men can cross dry shod on boul- ders lying in the stream, but unfortunately a ledge of sandstone rock half way between this place and the ford bars the road to animals. Mules and ponies being taken up to this must be unloaded, taken round over the ford to the sti^p- ping stones, and brought up to the other side of the ledge, where they can he reloaded. The portage is therefore only a few yards over the rock, and a few sap- pers with dynamite would soon make a road through the obstacle. In its present condition the place altogether would considerably delay troo])s marching, and it is evident that a slight rise of the stream would render the ford iiii[);aetieaMe to laden camels. In going by the ford the pool is re-entered for a few yards to pass round a projecting rock corresponding to the ledge abovemeutioncd. It is rather an awkward little bit. Having got over to the other side of the stream, proceed down it along right bank, which slopes rather steeply to the water. The average breadth of the gorge is a])out 120 yards. The sides are high and inaccessible sandstone cliffs. In this defile floods rise to a licight of 30 or 10 feet as evinced by drift wood on the banks. 1 he guide informed us that about 4 years ago (1877) there was a remarkable flood, which, according to the marks he showed, must have been fully 50 feet above the ordinary level of the stream. The flood season is in June and July, as might be expected, but there is often some rain after Christmas. ( 96 ) At al30ut 5 miles the defile bends quite round to east-south-east. The road, still keeping the right bank, is sometimes rough, but generally fair travelling. The hills are now lower, but equally inaccessible. At 6 J miles the defile makes an abrupt turn to the left (south), and the stream is crossed. It is quite shallow. At 7 miles the gorge is passed, and the road, crossing again, ascends to a wide bent on the right bank;, cutting off an easterly sweep of the river. At 8^ miles the river is again met and crossed. We camped here on the left bank. The flats on both sides are known as Gwand Bent. That just passed over would mate a good camping ground. It is alluvial soil grown with low scrub. "Wood and camel grazing abundant. Grass from the hills moderate. The distance from Shure Ap is about 12 miles. This country belongs to Las Bela, the gorge just passed being the bounrlary . The river is called Ilingol from the same place, or probably from the junction of the Arab Kaur. Friday, oth March. — Aghor. 13 miles. Elevation 38 feet. From camp south-east towards a plateau on tliat side, and enter a ravine. A camel road goes on over the flat, but is longer. The track, winding through low clayey hills, ascends and descends slightly. At f of a mile strike the Sital Xala, coming from between the high hills on the left. It is a small watercourse grown with tamarisk and urass, and is followed southwards for a quarter of a mile. Here the track bends south- south- west over a bent. There is water in the nala hero, but it is salt. At \\ miles descend a bank and cross the Sital, which goes away north- west flanked by a white clay scrap. Thence wind south through small clay hills, a furrowed cliff on the right. At 'i.\ miles cross a watershed. The track is still southwards through a hillocky tract. At 3^ miles bend south-west, and a quarter of a mile further turn again to south-east. Here is open country covered wnth bushes and a few small trees. The first range beyond Gurangat, called Sital-i-Band, is now close at hand on the left. A corresponding range known as Kuli is some miles off on the right. Boad and river pass southwards through the wide gap between these hills. The former keeps pretty close to the Sital range, beyond which is a high scnrped mass of sandstone called Di-ang, and passes through somewhat thick jungle. At 5 miles reach the Pachari Xala from between Sital-i-Band and Drang. It is 80 or 100 yards across, and the banks are thickly wooded. The bed is quite dry, and mostly of red sand. Crossing this kaur the track continues still southwards, through tamarisk jungle. At 5f miles it turns to the right,- and descends to the sandy river bed, which is crossed diagonally (south-west.) The stream is here brond and shal- low. Having gained the right bank, turn south along it through thick jungle. At 7 miles again meet the river, which bends to the right, and turn down it west. At 7 1 miles turn south across a ford 15 yards wide and a f ■ -ot deep. It has a firm sandy bottom. Thence southward through tamarisk jungle, the hills closing in on both sides. At 8^ miles pass through a gap about 300 yards wide, skirting a yellow sandstone rock on the left. ( 07 ) At 9 miles the rhvr, and alont,' its snndy bed, still south. At 91 miles cross the stream iu two small shallow channels and ascend the right hank. Thence bend south-Trcst by south down a long and tolerably straight valley about a mile wide. On the right is a sandstone clilf ; on the lel't a marvcl- ously lissured clayey scarp. The flats on cither side the river bed arc thickly wooded with tamarisk, &c. At 11 miles descend a scarped bank to the river (baggage animals had better keep to its bed), and cross an easy ford to a flat on the left bank. At llj miles again descend to the rirer. The ford here is pebbly. The track, on the right bank, now inclines towards the base of the rocks, and at about 12} miles reaches the mouth of the Nani ravine. This is a large and deep cleft, about two miles up which is Hingldj or Bibi Ndni, a famous place of Hindu pilgrimage. Crossing the woody watercourse as it issues from the hills, the track con- timies near the base of the cliil. At about 13 miles is a towering rock, perfectly perpendicular, and 100 feet high. At the foot of this Ave camped in thick tama- risk jungle. For a mile or more below the mouth of the Hingldj ravine, the valley is known as Aghor, and the clitf is the Aghor rock mentioned by Goldsmid. The bed of the river is here a sheet of sand 150 yards wide. The stream varies from 15 to 10 yards across, and is generally shallow. The banks are 12 feet high and scarped. On the right bank there is no room for encampment, The flat on the left bank is more suitable, but some jungle would apparently ■ have to be cleared. There is also room in the river bed, and it would probably be safe enough in the cold weather. However, the sand is almost too soft for pitching tents. Wood, water, and camel grazing are abundant. There is also coarse drab grass. Saturday, 6(h March. — HlXGoL. 1\\ miles. TTaitcdthis morning to allow the Hindus of the party to visit Hingldj, which has been sufficiently described by Goldsmid. Started about half past two. At this hour the sea breeze is in full blow, and the heat is not unpleasantly great, but the still mornings are oppressive. Followed a track along right bank, which winds al)out through jungle and over somewhat broken ground at the base of the rocks. The guide said this Avas better than taking to the river bed at once. At 1 mile descended to the river and followed its sandy bed south-west bending Avest-south-west. The road is heavy. At 1 J miles south-west across the stream, shallow and stony. The river here bends southwards through the hills, but straight on is a long vista through loAv parallel broken ridges of strange shaped rocks. A good deal of this country would alTord a Dore valuable suggestions for illustrating " Paradise Lost," but not Avith reference to those passages treating of paradise. At 2 miles turn south, the river running under clay hills to the right. At 2] miles pass under the telegraph wire, which makes a tremendous leap to a email rocky ridge on the far side the stream. The gap in the clay hills is wide, and the track winds oA-er high broken ground near the eastern scarp. General direction south-south-east. At 2J miles descend tlirough clay hills at the foot of the cliCF. The path is smooth, but far from level. ( 9S ) At 3i miles reach a narrow plain between the clay hills and the last range, which is of sandstone. The telegraph line is seen coming over this plain from the south-east, and the TJrmara road leads over it westwards. Very soon the track turns to the right, and descends an almost perpendi- cular, but soft, bank to the river bed. The stream is at the foot of this, and the track runs along under the bank for 100 yards or so to get a good crossing. Thence south by east down the river bed over rather heavy sand, turning 60uth by east at 4J miles. At 4 1 miles cross the stream and enter the gap in the last range by which the river escapes to the sea. This gap is about 150 yards wide. The rocks on either hand are of no great height, and are accessible from the south, though scarped to the north. Passing here over alow flat on the left bank, the track soon takes again to the river bed, wliich is gravelly, and continues down it south by west. On both sides are insignificant saudstone ridges, parallel to the last range, and at right angles to the river. At 5J miles turn to the right and cross the stream for the last time. The ford is at the lower end of a long pool, and is 30 yards wide by IS inches deep. Good sandy bottom. Thence ascend right bank and turn along it south-south, west through grass and jungle. At 5| miles bend south-south-west through low sandstone hillocks. These are soon cleared, and the track turns south-west, outside of and parallel to them. On the left (south) is a sandy, uneven plain grown with very low scrub and tufts of dead grass. Sand dunes similarly covered shut out a view of the sea, which is not, however, far off. At 7^ miles reach outlying hillocks. Beyond these, at 7| miles, is the shallow sandy bed of the Mali Nala, in which some babul and tamarisks have been conspicuous objects since leaving the hills. Thence over the same plain bending somewhat to the south. The travel- ling is good, but there is no defined track. At 10 miles rise slightly on to sand dunes with low scrub, from the top of which, at 10| miles, a glimpse of the sea is obtained. Descend slightly there- from, and cross a portion of the plain towards more sand dunes. Near these (11| miles) came suddenly on a well, and were surprised to hear we were at Hiugol, as I had expected a village or visible hamlet of some sort. There are however, only some ten or a dozen widely scattered fishermen's huts. Camped at the well. Soil very sandy, and almost too loose for pitching tents. It is covered with low scrub, and there is tamarisk, so camel grazing and wood are fau-ly plentiful. The water in this well is scanty, and rather brackish, but three-quarters of a mile west, across heavy sand, is another. The water in this is quite near the surface and perfectly sweet, so that there can be little doubt it is a spring, and not infiltrated sea water. The sandstone range last traversed, and its accompanying outer ridges, run straight about south-west, and passing a little north of the wells, terminate in the sea some two miles west-south- west. They are locally known as Hab. The point is apparently that next to Maldn on the cast, but the latter is 12 or 15 miles off. ( 99 ) The sea is a short mile south of the wells. It is very shallow and full of sand hanks. There is deeper water oil the point, but, as far as I could ascertain, steamers would have to anchor a long way out in a perfectly open roadstead. Sundaij, 7lh Murch. — Halted. Owing to impossibility of obtaining even the smallest amount of supplies (except lish and mutton) was obliged to send the party to Sangal, a march on the Sunmiani road, where there is abannia's shop. The llasaldar and two men, without their marcs, elected to stay with mc and go by boat to Karachi. It is hardly necessary to remark that there is no trade at IIing61, and in fact no boats larger than "yiikdars" (tonics or fishing canoes). A few camels come down occasionally from the interior to the mouth of the Hing61 river for salt. Monday, 8th March. — The boat from Urmara came in about midday. Though only a coasting craft of about 20 tons, thenakhuda did not care to come within half a mile of the land, abreast of the point. We packed up leisurely, and embarked in tonics from the beach, under tlie rocks, about IJ miles south-west of our camp at the brackish well. At about six wc were under weigh, standing out very slowly with the beginning of the land breeze. Tuesday, Dlh March. — Ran steadily all night before a gentle land breeze, and about 6 a.m. sighted Churnao island. The wind falling very light, we were not abreast till 11-30. Cape Monzc of the charts is a range running apparently parallel to the shore but its strike is probably north east. Its local, and presumably correct, name is Jil, " Monzc " and " Muari " being unknown to the boatmen. At -l o'clock wc were off ]\Ianora, and landed at the custom-house bunder about 5, thus terminating the expedition. The distance by sea from Karachi harbour to ning(!Jl anchorage is about 105 miles. ( 100 ) The folloiriiig is a list of -n-orcTs occasionally used in the foregoing pages, or which might he useful to a future traTcllcr as heing of constant occiu:rence : — Band. — Commonly applied to a range of hills in Mekran. Bdnt. — A plateau ; more especially a plateau ahutting on, or enclosed by the bend of, a watercourse. Bidrang. — Watershed. Bundp. — Water ■which wells up from below in contradistinction to rain water. Answers to the ' sim ' of eastern Bakichistan and Sind. But.— A spur (Baluchi). Biiz. — A spur (Brahui). Chah.— Well. Daf. — Mouth, as of a stream or ravine. Dak.— Clear i^lain. Daman. — Literally shirt ; it means the stony glacis, or foot slope of a hOl. Damok. — ^A narrow plain or valley with parallel ranges on either hand. — {Boss). Dar. — Wood. Dat. — Cliff ; also a place enclosed by cliffs, i.e., a ravine or defile. Dhan. — Waste or desert. Ghidan. — The common black blanket tent of the country. Halk.— See Tuman. Hor. — Literally finger ; sometimes applied to peaks. Kalat, or Kalag. — A fort. Kand. — A pass ; answers to " kotal." Kani.— 'A waterhole. Klaur. — Watercourse ; answers to the Indian ' nala.' Khushkawa. — Land dependent on rain. Koh. — It is hardly necessary to mention that this word means moun- tain. Kohan. — A peak. Kucha. — A plain. Lak. — A pass ; answers nearly to the Indian ' ghat, ' and seems to imply a place of which the ascent is much greater on one side than the other. It is not, I believe, a Baluch or Persian word. Lat. — A range of hills (Brahui). Mach. — A date tree. Manchar or Mantar. — A loop or bend, as of a stream ; also circuitous, as of a road. Marao. — Topographically a basin — i.e., a place the drainage of which has no outlet, and which is therefore liable to become flooded after rain. Beg, or rek. — Sand ; also a sandliill. Rem. — Grass. Sim. — See Bunap. Bor. — Salt ; answers to " shor. " Sunt. — An end ; applied to the termination of a range or of a spur. Tank. — A defile ; answers to " tangi." ( 101 ) Takar. — Literally hill or rock. It also means everywhere a section of a tribe. Talar. — Steep or inaccessible. Thai. — Sometimes small plains of alluvial soil arc found high up among the hills. In a less diy climate these would be lakes or tarns. Such places arc called thai. Thul. — A tower. Tuman. — A camp or collection of ghidans. In Mckrdn it is Aa^^. Ziarat. — Shrine; the burial-place of a saint. Six well known kinds of grass are met with, it is useful to know their names and quality. Good prickly grass is hinildr or kanJcra ... ... ... 1 A fine soft hill grass is pufdr — good Rather coarse but abundant bill grass is gurkao Common grass in the plains in lars/ion Grass growing in tussocks on plains, &c., is drah or Mn Grass growing in tussocks in watercourses, &c., is kdskam ... 6 No. 1 is more common about hollows of bills than anywhere else. It is killed by frost and then is of no use. When green, horses eat it greedily. No. 2 is a good grass and abundant in some places. No. 3 is also good and abundant on nearly all hills. No. 4 is tolerable. The old stuff is like sticks. No. 5 horses will eat from hunger, but not willingly. No. 6 hardly as good as No 5. OcTt. Central Branoh Praes, SimU— No. 106 Q. M. O— 22-1-S3.— 96. \ \ \ \ D 000 025 817 -rf^^hM'F' ^ ^r i:j