DNYSOl :<^ ^(f/OJIWDJO^ ^miivojo^ UNIVER5"//, o %a3AiNn3V\V^ ^.OFCALIFO/?^^ ^OFCAIIFO^^ >&A}!VHnilTxV' X^AHVHaiTl'^^ -^lLIBRARYQ/\ avyaii-^^ \WEUNIVER5-//- ^vKlOSANGElfj> o ^\\E•UNIVER5•/A '^/5a3AiNn]\\v^ o;KWSANGElfj> o ■^Aa^AINfl^WV^ UNIVER5//, vvlOSANCELfj> o o %aaAiNfl-3WV ^;^t•LIBRARYa^ '^«!/0JllV3J0'^ ^;At•LiBRARYQ^ Mi ,.JI1V3 v^lOSANCELfj> 3> so '^/5a3AINn-3WV^ ^•OF-CAIIFO^^ ^0FCAIIF0% >&Ay vaaii^^ ^^Awaaiii^ o %a3AINn3WV^ ^^AHvyani^ litk Call #: En urn i- -ri+'i- ••jT-i.--i n +1T ■•■•;•-.•--.+- -r i. •J^i.i.yZi li.i.i'wr ^-li-i.'.-' J.i.'-ui.J.<^. With i"ouids frotn Londoti to Pans: handbook for ttivellers iiiatjs '6ii!6r 30 plans. Kail Baedeker (Fiiin) DC7QS B"^ I ?^K item#: AnQn36iab/6 Route To SRI..F Circ Desk s>:lOSANCElfj:, '^/sa3AiNn-3WV'^ o ^^lUBRARYa M iiAINa]\\V rARIS. ^ 1 o i ES -*8S8SSSS ISSig Igg^S ISg§g 1 1 1 i 4 1 1 1 1 1 ^c-jcc-^-^u-:co£-ccoooo^c9r9oo;^i0200 .1 ^sT^TpTs pT^^ 1 a pTsT^T 1 E~F^^^ ' &"pr^^ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 |'-iCTco<*-^mot-cococ20-^c^oico-=3'inco i i G 1 1 1 1 1 ! 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ! M 1 1 1 1 1 1-"-^ « -2 ---^'SSaiSS ISiSS ISSSS 1 SSSS 1 1 1 1 i i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -i^^-^^c-JC90JO!CJcococoeceo-=*iOO French Money. Francs. Centimes. '-^^S^ 1 1 1 II 1 1 ri 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 M 1 1 1 PARIS AND ENVIRONS WITH ROUTES FEOM LONDON TO PABI8, HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY K. BAEDEKER. WIT'.l y MM'S AND 30 PLANS. NINTH REVISED EDITION. LEIP8IC: KARL BAEDEKER. 1888. All rights vvstrted. 'Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this he thy prayere Unto them all tliat thee will read or hear. Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all ! ' Chaucer. 7 0^ \^ ■••7 PEEFAGE. Ihe chief object of the Handbook for Paris, whicli is now issued for the ninth time, and corresponds with the twelfth German edition, is to render the traveller as nearly as possible independent of the services of guides, commissionnaires, and innkeepers, and to enable him to employ his time and his money to the best advantage. Objects of general interest, described by the Editor from his personal observation, are those with which the Handbook principally deals. A detailed account of all the specialties of Paris would of course far exceed the limits of a work of this character. The Maps and Plans , upon which the utmost care has been bestowed, will, it is hoped, be found serviceable. Those which relate to Paris itself (one clue-map, one large plan, five special plans of the most important quarters of the city, and one omnibus-plan) have been collected in a separate cover at the end of the volume, and may if desired be severed from the Handbook altogether. The subdivision of the Plan of the city into three sections distinguished by different colours will be found materially to facilitate reference, as it ob- viates the necessity of unfolding a large sheet of paper at each consultation. There is probably no city in the world which ever underwent such gigantic transformations in its external ap- pearance as the French metropolis during the reign of Na- poleon III., and few cities have ever experienced so appal- ling a series of disasters as those which befel Paris in 1 870-7 1 . Many squalid purlieus , teeming with poverty and vice, were swept away under the imperial regime , to make room for spacious squares , noble avenues, and palatial edifices. The magnificent metamorphosis of Paris 'from l)rick to marble' was nearly complete when the gay. splendour- loving, pleasure-seeking city was overtaken by the signal calamities occasioned by the Franco-Prussian war and the Communist rebellion. During that period the city sustained many irreparable losses, but since the restoration of peace it has in most respects resumed its former appearance , the vi PREFACE. government having done its utmost to restore everything as far as possible to its former condition. A short account of the routes from London to Paris, and of the principal towns of Northern France, with their magni- ficent Gothic churches, will be acceptable to most travellers. In the Handbook are enumerated both the first-class hotels and those of humbler pretension. The latter may often be selected by the 'voyageur en gargon' with little sacrifice of real comfort, and considerable saving of expenditure. Those which the Editor, either from his own experience^ or from an examination of the numerous hotel-bills sent him by travellers of different nationalities , believes to be most worthy of commendation are denoted by asterisks. It should, however, be borne in mind that hotels are liable to constant changes, and that the treatment experienced by the traveller often depends on circumstances which can neither be fore- seen nor controlled. The Editor begs to tender his grateful acknowledgments to travellers who have sent him information for the benefit of the Handbook, and hopes that they will continue to favour him with such communications, especially when the result of their own experience. To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor begs to intimate that the commendations in the Handbook cannot be secured by purchase, and that advertisements of every form are strictly excluded. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES Gift Of Prof .Har»iw Thorrina Gory CONTENTS. Introduction. Page I. Language. Money. Expenses. Season. Passports. Custom House xii II. Railways xiii III. Outline of History xiv IV. General Remarks on Paris xxiii V. Weights and Measures xxv VI. Remarks on ISorthern France xxvi Remarks on French Art xxix Preliminary Information. 1. Arrival in Paris 1 2. Hotels 2 3. Restaurants 9 4. Cafes and Confectioners 17 5. Cabs 19 6. Omnibuses and Tramways. River Steamboats 21 7. Railway Stations. Chemin de Fer de Ceinture .... 23 8. Post and Telegraph Offices 25 9. Theatres, Circuses, Panoramas, etc 27 10. Concerts, Balls, Sport, and Clubs 33 11. Shops and Bazaars 35 12. Booksellers, Reading Rooms, Libraries, Newspapers . . 40 13. Baths, Physicians, Maisons de Sante 42 14|. Divine Service 44 15;. Embassies. Ministerial Offices 45 Id. Topography. Preliminary Drive 46 H. Distribution of Time. Diary 51 Sights of Paris. l.„„te Right Bank of the Seine. 1. From the Palais-Royal to the Bastille, and back by the Boulevards 55 I. The Palais Royal, and thence to the Hotel de Ville. — St. Germain rAiixcrrois. Tour St. Jacques. Place du Chatelet. St. Merri 65 II. From the Hotel de Ville to the Bastille. — St. Gervais. St. Paul et St. Louis. Colonne de Juillet 64 viii CONTENTS. Route Paj;c III. The Boulevards from the Bastille to the Madeleine. — Place de la Re'publique. Porte St. Martin. Porte St. Denis. The Bourse. The Opera . . , 68 IV. From the Madeleine to the Palais-Eoyal by the Place de la Concorde. — Colonne Vendome. St. Roch .... 81 2. Palace and Galleries of the Louvre. The Tuileries . . . 87 I. The Palace of the Louvre 87 II. The Galleries of the Louvre 89 Egyptian Museum 91 Asiatic Museum 94 Ancient Sculptures 96 Mediseval and Renaissance Sculptures 104 Modern Sculptures 107 Muse'e de Chalcographie 109 Picture Gallery Ill Galerie d'ApoHon 136 Salle des Bijoux 138 Collection La Caze 140 Ancient Bronzes 141 Collection of Drawings 141 Smaller Mediseval and Renaissance Antiquities . . . 142 Greek Antiquities 144 Muse'e Campana 145 Blusee de la Marine 146 Musee Ethnographique 147 Muse'e Chinois 147 Salle des Boites 148 III. The Tuileries 148 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel 148 3. From the Place de la Concorde to the Bois de Boulogne, and back by the Trocadero 152 I. From the Place de la Concorde to the Place de TEtoile. — C'hamps-Elyst'es. IS^euilly 152 II. From the Place de TEtoile" to the Bois de Boulogne. — Fortifications. Jardin dAcclimatation. Auteuil. Hippo- drome de Longchamp 156 III. From the Bois de Boulogne to the Trocade'ro and the Place de la Concorde 160 4. From the Palais-Royal to Pere-Lachaise 1(34 I. From the Palais-Royal to the Halles Centrales. — St. Eu- stache 164 II. From the Halles Centrales to the Place de la Re'pxiblique. — Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers 168 III. From the Place de la Re'publique to Pere-Lachaise . . 171 ' 5. From the Boulevards to La Villette and to Montmartre . 180 I. From the Boulevards to La Villette. — St. Laurent. Gare de TEst. Gare du Xord. Battes-Chaumont. Market and Abattoirs at La Villette 180 11. From La Villette to Montmartre. — St. Vincent-de-Paul. Butte Montmartre. Cemetery of ilontmartre 183 III. From Montmartre to the Boulevards. — Notre-Dan^e-de- Lorette 188 6. From the Palais-Royal to Batignolles 189 I. From the Palais-Eoval to La Trinite'. — Bibliotheque Xationale 189 II. From La Trinite to the Pare Monceaux. — Les Batignolles 195 III. From the Pare Monceaux to the Ope'ra. — St. Augustin. Chapelle Expiatoire. Gare St. Lazare 197 CONTENTS. ix Route I'agc 7. From the Louvre to Viiiceiiiies 198 I. Froiu the Louvre to the Miisee Camavalct ;irid the Bastille 108 II. From the Bastille to Vincennes 203 The Cite. 8. Palais de Justice. Sainte-Chapelle. Notre-Dame . . . 208 I. Palais de Justice and Sainte-Chapelle. — Tribunal dc Commerce. Pont-Neuf. Prefecture de Police .... 208 II. Notre-Damo. — Hotel-Dieu. Morgue. He St. Louis . . 213 Left Bank of the Seine. 1). From the Cite to the Pantheon and the Pare Montsouris 217 I. From the Cite to the Muse'e de Cluny. — Fontaine St. Mi- chel. St. Severin. Ecole de Medecine 217 II. From the Muse'e de Cluny to the Pantheon. — Sorbonne. College de France. Bibliotheque Ste. Genevieve. St. Eti- enne-du-Mont 226 III. From the Panthe'on to the Piirc ilontsouris. — Val-de- Grace. Catacombs 232 10. From the Louvre to the Luxembourg and the Cemetery of Montparnasse 234 I. lustitut. Hotel dc3 Monnaies. Ecole des Beaux-Arts . . 234 II. From the Ecole des Beaux-Arts to the Luxembourcc. — St. Germain-des-Pres. St. Sulpiee 240 III. Palace, Gallery, and Garden of the Luxembourg . . . 243 IV. From the Luxembourg to the Cemetery of Montparnasse 249 11. From the Louvre to the Jardin des JPlantes and the Gobelins 252 I. From the Louvre to the Jardin des Plantes 252 II. From the .lardin des Plantes to the Gobelins .... 257 12. From the Tuileries to the Invalides and the Trocade'ro . 259 I. From the Tuileries to the Invalides. — Chambre des De- putes. Ste. Clotilde 259 II. Hotel des Invalides. — Musee d'Artillerie. Eglise des Invalides. Napoleon's Tomb 263 III. From the Invalides to the Trocade'ro. — Ecole Militaire. Champ-de-Mars 269 Environs of Paris. 13. From Paris to Versailles 271 From ^'orsail]cs to St. Germain-en-Laye 294 14. From Versailles to Uambouillet 295 15. From Paris to St. Cloud, Sevres, and Meudon 296 From St. Cloud to Xoisy-le-Eui 293 IG. From Paris to St. Germain-en-Laye 300 From Eueil to Marly-le-Roi. 301. — From St. (iermain to Maisons-sur-Seine ... 3(.U 17. From Paris to St. Denis, Enghien, and Montmorency, and back to Paris via Argenteuil 305 a. From Paris to St. Denis 305 b. From St. Denis to Enghion and Montmorency. — From Epinay to Noisy le-Sec and to Argenteuil 311 c. From Enghien to Paris via Argenteuil 313 18. From Paris to Fontainebleau 313 X CONTENTS. Route Page 19. Sceaux and the Valleys of the Bievre and the Yvette . . 321 a. From Paris to Sceaux 321 b. From Sceaux to the Valley of the Bievre. — From Massy-Palaiseau to Valenton and to Juvisy . . . 323, 324 c. From the Valley of the Bievre to the Valley of the Yvette 324 20. From Paris to the Valley of the Oise 326 a. From Paris to Pontoise 326 1. Via St. Denis or Argenteuil. 326. — 2. Via Acheres 327 b. From Pontoiseto Beaumont. — From Beaumont to Creil 328-330 c. From Beaumont to Paris 330 1. Via Montsoult. — From Montsoult to Luzarehes 330 2. Via Valmandois and Ermont. — Abbaye du Val 331 21. From Paris to Chantilly, Compiegne, and Pierrefonds . 332 From Chantilly to Senlis. 333. — From Creil to Beauvais 334 Routes from London to Paris. 22. By Folkestone, Boulogne, and Amiens 337 23. By Dover, Calais, and Amiens 342 24. By Newhaven, Dieppe, and Rouen 343 25. By Southampton, Havre, and Rouen 352 List of Artists 355 Index 364 List of Maps and Plans, A. Maps. 1. Railway Map of France, at the end of the book. 2. Immediate Environs of Paris, p. 270. 3. Remoter Environs of Paris, p. 320. 4. Vincennes and its Environs, p. 204. 5. Asnieres and Mont Valerien, p. 272. 6. St. Cloud and Sevres, p. 296. 7. Environs of St. Germain-en-Laye, p. 304. 8. Forest of Fontainebleau, p. 315. 9. Compiegne and Pierrefonds, p. 335. B. Flans. 1. Key-Plan of Paris. 2. Plan of Paris in three sections. 3. Special Plan of Arc de I'Etoile and Champ-de-Mars District. 4. „ „ „ ., Champs -Elyse'es, W. Boulevards, and Louvre. 5. „ ,, ,, „ E. Boulevards. 6. ., .. ., ., Hotel deslnvalides and Palais du Luxem- bourg District. 7. ., ., ., ., Cite, Place de la Bastille, and Jardin des Plantes. 8. Omnibus and Tramway Plan of Paris. CONTENTS. xi 9. llistorical Plan of the Lonvre and Tuilerics, p. 8(S. 10, 11, 12. Galleries of the Louvre, between pp. 88, 89. 13. Bois de Boulogne, p. 156. 14. Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, p. 168. 15. Pere-Lachaise, p. 172. 16. Cemetery of Montmartre, p. 186. 17. Muse'e de Cluny, p. 220. 18. Ecole des Beaux-Arts, p. 237. 19. Jardin des Plantes, p. 254. 20. Muse'e d'Artillerie, p. 265. 21. Town and Park of Versailles, p. 273. 22. 23. Muse'e de Versailles, ground, first, and second lloors, pp. 278, 279. 24. St. Germain-en-Laye, p. 301. 25. Fontainebleau, p. 315. 26. Boulogne, p. 337. 27. Amiens, p. 340. 28. Dieppe, p. 343. 29. Rouen, p. 345. 30. Le Havre, p. 352. Abbreviations. M. = Engl, mile; hr. = hour; min. = minute; r. = right: 1. = left; N. = north, northwards, northern; S. = south, etc.: E. = east, etc. ; W. = west, etc. ; R. = room; B. = breakfast D. = dinner; A. = attendance; L. = light. The letter d after a name, with a date, indicates the year of the person's death. Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. INTRODUCTION. I, Language. Money. Expenses. Season. Passports. Custom House. Language. For those who wish to derive instruction as well as pleasure from a visit to Paris, the most attractive treasury of art and industry in the world, some acquaintance with French is indispensable. The metropolis of France, it is true, possesses Eng- lish hotels , English professional men , English 'valets de place', and English shops ; but the visitor who is dependent upon these is necessarily deprived of many opportunities of becoming acquainted with the most interesting characteristics of the place. Money. The decimal Monetary System of France is extremely convenient in keeping accounts. The Banque de France issues Banknotes of 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, and 50 francs. The French Gold coins are of the value of 100, 50, 20, 10, and 5 francs ; Silver coins of 5, 2, 1, 1/2? and 1/5 franc; Bronze of 10, 5, 2, and 1 centime (100 centimes = 1 franc), ^Sou' is the old name, still in common use, for 5 centimes ; thus, a 5-franc piece is sometimes called 'une piece de cent sous', 2 fr. = 40 sous, 1 fr. = 20 sous, 1/2 fr. = 10 sous. Italian, Belgian, Swiss, and Greek gold and silver coins are also received at their full value, and the new Austrian gold pieces of 4 and 8 florins are worth exactly 10 and 20 fr. respectively. The only foreign copper coins current in France are those of Italy, and occasionally the English penny and halfpenny, which nearly correspond to the 10 and 5 centime piece respectively. English banknotes, gold, and even silver are generally received at the full value, except at the shops of the money-changers, where a trifling deduction is made. The table at the beginning of the book shows the comparative value of the French, English, Ameri- can, and German currencies, when at par. The currency of Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, and Greece is the same as that of France. The traveller should always be provided with small change (petite monnaie) , as otherwise he may be put to inconvenience in giving gratuities, purchasing catalogues, etc. Expenses. The cost of a visit to Paris depends of course on the tastes and habits of the traveller. If he selects a hotel of a high class, dines at the table d'hote, or perhaps the 'Diner de Paris', partakes of wine of good though not extravagant quality, visits the II. RAILWAYS. xiii theatres, drives in the parks and environs, and finally indulges in suppers a la carte , he must be prepared to spend 30 - 40 fr. a day or upwards. Those, however, who visit Paris for the sake of its monuments, its galleries, its collections, and not for its pleasures, will have little difficulty, with the aid of the information in the Handbook, in limiting their expenditure to 15-20 fr. a day. It need hardly be observed, that, in a city where luxury is raised to a science, and where temptations to extravagance meet one at every step, each traveller must be his own mentor. Season. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for a visit to Paris, the former perhaps deserving the preference as having fewer rainy days. The long days of summer are in some respects admir- ably adapted for sight-seeing; but the lieat is often excessive, and the absence of a large proportion of the ordinary residents deprives the city of one of its most characteristic features. The winter is not generally severe, but the short days are inconvenient for sight-seers. Passports. These documents are now dispensed with in France, but they are often useful in proving the traveller's identity, pro- curing admission to museums on days when they are not open to the public, etc., and they must be shown in order to obtain delivery of registered letters. The visa of a French ambassador or consul is un- necessary. Application for passports may be made to W. J. Adams. 59 Fleet Street; Lee and Carter, 440 W. Strand; Dorrell & Son, 15 Charing Cross; or E. Stanford, 55 Charing Cross. Custom House. In order to prevent the risk of unpleasant de- tention at the 'douane' or custom-house, travellers are strongly re- commended to avoid carrying with them any articles that are not absolutely necessary. Cigars and tobacco are chiefly sought for by the custom-house officers. The duty on the former amounts to about 16s., on the latter to 7-1 Is. per lb. Articles liable to duty should always be 'declared'. Books and newspapers occasionally give rise to suspicion and may in certain cases be confiscated. II. Railways. The network of railways by which France is now overspread consists of lines of an aggregate length of 20,300 M. The fares per English mile are approximately: 1st cl. 18 c, 2nd cl. 13'/.2C., 3rdcl. 10'/2C., to which a tax of ten per cent on each ticket costing more than 10 fr. is added. The express trains (Hrains express ) generally convey first-class passengers only. The carriages are in- ferior to those in most other parts of Europe. The trains are not always provided with smoking carriages, but in the others smoking is allowed unless any one of the passengers objects. Before starting, travellers are generally cooped up in the close and dusty waiting-rooms, and are not admitted to the platform until xiv III. HISTORY. the train is ready to receive them ; nor is any one admitted to the station to take leave of friends without special permission. Tickets for intermediate stations are usually collected at the 'sortie' ; those for termini, before the station is entered. Travellers within France are allowed 30 kilogrammes [66 Engl, lbs.) of luggage free of charge ; those who are bound for foreign countries are allowed 25 kilogr. only (55 lbs."); 10 c. is charged for booking. At most of the railway-stations there is a consigne, or left-luggage office, where a charge of 10 c. per day is made for one or two packages, and 5 c. per day for each additional article. Where there is no consigne^ the employes will generally take care of luggage for a trifling fee. The railway-porters (facteurs) are not entitled to remuneration, but it is usual to give a few sous for their services. Return-tickets (Billets d'aller et retour) are issued by all the railway-companies at a reduction of 15-25 per cent. ; those issued on Sat. and on the eves of great festivals are available for three days. The custom of raising the fares on the suburban railways on Sundays and holidays has fallen almost entirely into desuetude. The most trustworthy information as to the departure of trains is contained in the Indicateur des Chemins deFer, published weekly, and sold at all the stations (75 c). There are also separate and less bulky time-tables for the different lines (^Livrets Chaix') : du Nord, de I'Est, de I'Ouest, etc. (40 c). Railway time is always that of Paris, which differs considerably from that of the adjacent countries. Thus the Belgian time is 8 min., the German 22 min., and the Swiss 26 min. in advance of French railway time. III. Outline of History. At the time of the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, the Parisii were a tribe settled on the banks of the Sequana or Seine, and their chief town was Lutetia, situated on the present island of La Cite (comp. p. 208). The first event in the town's history worthy of mention was the introduction of Christianity by St. Denis, who , according to tra- dition, suffered martyrdom on Montmartre about the year 250. — Constantius Chlorus is said to have founded the Palais des Thermes (p. 226) between 292 and 306. — Julian resided at Lutetia in 360. The name of the town was then changed to Parisii, and the political franchise bestowed upon it. — In the vicinity of Paris, Gratian was defeated and slain by Maximus in 383. Merovingians. Cloyis, son of Childeric, king of Tournay, finally expelled the Romans about the year 496, embraced Christi- anity, and became the founder of the Merovingian Dynasty, which was so named from Meroveus, father of Clovis. Clovis erected a chnrcli to St. Peter and St. Paul, which he subsequently dedicated III. HISTORY. XV to Ste. Genevieve, who died in his reign. Few of the monarchs of this or the subsequent dynasty resided at Paris. Carlovingians. Pepin (Le Bref), who became king of France in 752 , was the founder of the second or Carlovingian Dynasty. Chaklemagne, 768. Louis I. (Le Debonnaire), 814. Charles II. (Le Chauve), SAO. Paris sacked by the Normans, 857. — The subsequent monarchs neglected the city, and, when it was again attacked by the Normans in 885, left it to its own resources. The dynasty was deposed in consequence, and the crown given to Count Odd, or Eudes, who had been instrumental in repelling the Normans, and who was the ancestor of the Capetian family. Capetians. Hugh Capet , grand-nephew of Eudes, was the founder of the third or Capetian Dynasty (987). The city now in- creased rapidly, and a palace on the site of the present Palais de Justice was begun. Robert II. (Le Pieux), 996. Henri I., 1031. Philip I., 1060. William, Duke of Normandy conquers Eng- land, 1066. First Crusade under Godfrey de Bouillon, 1096. Louis VI. (Le Gros) , 1108, founded a palace on the site of the Louvre. Suger, abbot of St. Denis, the king's minister. Louis VII. (Le Jeune), 1137. His divorced wife, Eleanor of Guienne and Poitou, married Henry Plantagenet, afterwards Henry II. of England. Foundation-stone of Notre -Dame laid by Pope Alexander III. in 1163. Philip II. (Auguste), 1180, extended the city considerably, and surrounded it with a wall and turrets. Undertakes the third Crusade, in company with Richard Coeur de Lion, 1189. On his return he attacks the English possessions in France, occupies Normandy, Maine, and Poitou, and defeats the English, Flemish, and German troops at Bouvines in 1214. Louis VHI. (Le Lion), 1223. Louis IX. (St. Louis), 1226. Crusades to Egypt and Tunis. Paris obtains various municipal privileges. The University of the Sorbonne founded by Robert Sorbon, the king's chaplain, 1250. Philip III. (Le Uardi), 1270. Philip IV. (Le Bel), 1285, founded the Parlement, or court of justice, and convoked the Etats-Generaux for the first time. He caused the papal residence to be transferred to Avignon, and in 1807 abolished the order of Knights Templar. Louis X. (Le Rutin), 1314. Philip V. (Le Long), 1316. Charles IV. (LeBel), 1322, died without issue. House of Valois. Philip VI., 1328. War with England, 1339 (^'(Juerre de Cent Ans', 1339-1453). Rattle of Crecy, 1346. xvi IIT. HISTORY. John (Le Bon), 1350; defeated and taken prisoner by the English at Poitiers, 1356. Peace of Bretigny, 1360. Charles V. (LeSage), 1364, founder of the Royal Library, the Bastille, and the Palais des Tournelles. The city extended and re-fortified. The English expelled by Bertrand du Guesclin. Chahlks YI., 1380; became insane twelve years afterwards. Defeat of the Flemings under Artevelde at Rosbeck, 1382. War of the Armagnacs. The French under the Constable d'Albret de- feated by Henry Y. of England at Agincourt or Azincourt, 1415. Paris occupied by the English, 1421. Charles YII., 1422. The siege of Orleans raised by Joan of Arc, 1429. Coronation at R helms. Joan burned at Rouen as a witch, 1431. The English expelled. At Paris 50,000 persons die of the plague (1437-8), which is followed by a famine. Louis XI., 1461. Introduction of printing, and establishment of post-office. Charles YIII., 1483: conquers Naples, 1495. Battle of St. Jac- ques near Bale against the Swiss. 1444. Louis XII. , 'Le pere du peuple\ 1498 , first king of the younger branch of the House of Yalois , conqueror of Milan and [in alliance with the Spaniards) of Naples. Having quarrelled with his Spanish allies, he was defeated by them on the Garigliano in 1503, on which occasion Bayard was present. The League of Cambrai is formed for the purpose of expelling the Yenetians from the main- land of Italy. The Yenetians defeated at Agnadello, 1509; but they succeed in destroying the League, and in forming the Ligue Sainte for the purpose of expelling the French from Italy. They defeat the French at Ravenna, 1512. Fraxcis I., 1515, defeats the Swiss at Marignano, and recov- ers the Duchy of Milan. Four wars with Charles Y. for the possession of Burgundy and Milan. Francis defeated and taken prisoner at Pavia, 1525. The city was more considerably altered and improved in this than in any of the preceding reigns. Many new edifices were erected, churches repaired, and the fortifications extended. Palace of the Louvre and Hotel de Yille begun. Henri II., 1547, husband of Catherine de Medicis, accidentally killed at a tournament (p. 64). Metz. Toul, and Yerdun annexed to France, 1556. Final expulsion of the English. Francis II., 1559, husband of Mary Stuart of Scotland. Charles IX., brother of Francis II., 1560. Regency of Cathe- rine de Medicis, the king's mother. Beginning of the Religious Wars. Louis de Conde, Antoine de Navarre, and Admiral Co- llgny, leaders of the Huguenots ; Fran(;ois de Guise and Charles de Lorraine command the Roman Catholic army. The Tuileries erected. Massacre of St. Bartholomew, 24th August, 1572. Henri III., 1574, brother of his two predecessors; flies from Paris, where a rebellion had broken out, by the advice of his III. HISTORY. xvii mother, Catlierinc dc Medicis (d. 1588); assassinated at St. Cloud by Jacques Clement, a Dominican friar. House of Bourbon. IIknkiIV., 1589, first monarch of the Houseof Bourbon^ defeats the Roman Catholic League at Arques in 1589, and at Ivry in 1590, becomes a Roman Catholic in 1593, captures Paris in 1594. Sully his minister. Religious toleration granted by the Edict of Nantes. Henry, divorced from Margaret of Valois in 1599, marries Marie de Medicis the following year ; assassinated by Ravaillac in 1610. The metropolis greatly embellished during this reign. The Pont-Neuf completed, additions made to the Louvre and Tuileries. Louis XHL, 1610; his mother Marie de Medicis, regent; she is banished to Cologne, where she dies in 1642. Richelieu, his minister (d. 1642). English fleet defeated at Re, 1627; La Ro- chelle taken from the Huguenots. France takes part in the Thirty Years'War against Austria. The Palais-Cardinal (now 'Royal') begun by Richelieu, and the Luxembourg by Marie de Medicis. New bridges, quays, and streets constructed. Jardin des Plantes laid out. Louis XIV. , 1643 , under the regency of his mother, Anne of Austria. Ministers: Mazarin (d. 1661), Louvois (d. 1691), and Colbert (d. 1683). Generals: Turenne (d. 1675), Conde' (d. 1686), Luxembourg (d. 1695). War of the Fronde against the court and Mazarin. Conde (Due d'Enghien) defeats the Spaniards at Rocroy in 1643, and at Lens in Holland in 1645. Turenne defeats the Bavarians at Freiburg and at Nordlingen, 1644. Submission of the Fronde. Peace of the Pyrenees, with Spain, 1659. Death of Mazarin, 1661. The king governs alone. Louis marries Maria Theresa, 1660. After the death of his father-in-law, Louis lays claim to the Low Countries. Turenne conquers Hainault and part of Flanders, 1667. Conde occupies the Franche Comte. Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, in consequence of the Triple Alliance, 1668. War with Holland, Passage of the Rhine, 1672. Occupation of the provinces of Utrecht and Guelderland. Victories of Turenne over the Imperial army at Sinzheim, Ensisheim, Miilhausen (1674), and Tiirkheim (1675). Death of Turenne at Sassbach, 1675. Admiral Duquesne defeats the Dutch fleet near Syracuse, 1676. Marshal Luxembourg defeats William of Orange at Mont- cassel, 1677, Peace of Nymwegen, 1678. Strassburg occupied, 1681. Occupation of Luxembourg. Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 1685. Devastation of the Palatinate, 1688. Marshal Luxembourg defeats the Imperial troops at Fleurus (1690) and Steenkerke (1692), and William of Orange at Xeeriuinden, 1693. The French fleet under Admiral Tourville defeated by the English at La Hogue, 1692. Peace of Ryswyk, 1697. Spanish war of succession, 1701. Victory of Vendome at Aws- zara (1702), and of Tallard at Speyer (1702). Taking of Landau, Baedekkr. Paris. 9th Edit. ^ xviii III. HISTORY. 1702. Victory at ffoc/isfadf (1703) ; defeat 3it Hochstddt, ox lilen- heim (1704), by the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene of Savoy. Marshal Villars defeated by Prince Eugene at Turin (1705), and by Marlborough and the Prince at Ramillies (1709), Oudenarde (1708), and Malplaquet (1709). Peace of Utrecht and Rastadt, 1714. During this reign upwards of eighty new streets and thirty- three churches were constructed. Hotel des Invalides, Observatory, and the colonnade of the Louvre completed. College Mazarin, Gobelins, etc., begun. Fortifications converted into boulevards. Louis XV., 1715; ten years' regency oiihe Duke of Orleans. Marries Marie Lesczynska of Poland. Austrian war of succession (1740-48). Defeat at Dettingen by George II. of England. Defeat of the Dutch and English at Fontenoy (1744), of the Austrians under Charles of Lorraine at Rocoux (1746), and of the Allies near Laeffelt ( Law f eld) in 1746. Taking of Maastricht and Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, 1748. Naval war against England. Seven years' war with England. Duke of Cumberland defeat- ed by Marshal d'Estrees , 1757. The French under Prince de Soubise defeated the same year by Frederick the Great at Ross- bach, and in 1758 at Crefeld, by the Duke of Brunswick. The latter defeated by Marshal Broglie at Bergen, 1790. The French defeated at Minden (1759), etc. The Pantheon , Ecole Militaire , Palais du Corps Legislatif, Hotel des Monnaies, and many other important buildings were erected during this reign. Jardin des Plantes extended. Louis XVI., 1774, married to Marie Antoinette, daughter of Francis I. and Maria Theresa. American War of Independence against England, 1777-83. Exhaustion of the finances of France ; Vergennes , Turgot , Necker , Calonne , Brienne , and Necker (a second time), ministers of finance. 1789. Revolution. Assembly of the States General at Ver- sailles, 5th May. Their transformation into a National Assembly, 17th June. Oath of the Jeu de Paume (p. 274), 20th June. Storming of the Bastille, 14th July. The 'Femmes de la Halle' at Versailles, 5th Oct. Confiscation of ecclesiastical property, 2nd Nov. 1790. National fete in the Champ-de-Mars. 1791. The Emigration. The royal family escape from Paris, but are intercepted at Varennes, 22nd June. Oath to observe the Con- stitution, 14th Sept. Assemblee Legislative. 1792. War with Austria, 20th April. Storming of the Tuileries, 10th Aug. The king arrested, 11th Aug. Massacres in Sept. Cannonade of Valmy against the Prussians, 20th Sept. The Na- tional Convention opened, and royalty abolished, 21st Sept. Republic proclaimed, 25th Sept. Custine enters Mayence, 21st Oct. Battle of Jemappes against the Austrians, 6th Nov. Conquest of Belgium. 111. HISTORY. xix 1793. Louis Wl. beheaded, 21st Jan. Republican reckoning of time introduced, 22nd Sept. t . Reign ot Terror. The queen beheaded, 16th Oct. Worship of Reason Introduced , 10th Nov. Loss of Belgium. 1794. Robespierre's fall and execution, 27th July. Jourdan's victory at Fleurus, 16th June. Belgium reconquered. 1795. Conquest of Holland by Pichegru. Bonaparte commander of the troops of the Convention against the Royalists under Da- nican , 3rd Oct. Directory established , 27th Oct. 1796. Bonaparte's successes in Italy (Montenotte^ Millesimo, Lodi, Milan, Mantua, Castiglione, Bassano, and Areola). 1797. Victory at Rivoli, 17th Jan. Taking of Mantua, 2nd Feb. The Austrians commanded by Archduke Charles, at first victorious, are defeated by Bonaparte. Peace of Campo Formio, 17th Oct. Change in the Directory on 18th Fructidor (4th Sept.). 1798. Bonaparte in Egypt. Victory of the Pyramids, 21st July. Defeated by Nelson at the battle of the Nile, 1st Aug. 1799. Bonaparte invades Syria. Acre defended by Sir Sidney Smith. Victory of Aboukir, 25th July. Fall of the Directory, 9th Nov. Establishment of the Consulate, 24th Dec. Bona- parte First Consul. 1800. Bonaparte's passage of the St. Bernard, 13-16th May. Victories at Piacenza, Montebello, Marengo, and Hohenlinden. At- tempt to assassinate Napoleon at Paris. 23rd Dec. 1801. Peace of Luneville with Germany, 9th Feb. 1802. Peace of Amiens with England, 27th March. Bona- parte (with Cambaceres and Lebrun) elected Consul for life. 1804. First Empire. Napoleon I. proclaimed Emperor by the Senate, 18th May; crowned by Pope Pius VII., 2nd Dec. 1805. Renewal of war with Austria. Capitulation of Vim, 17th Oct. Defeat of Trafalgar, 2ist Oct. Battle of Austerlitz, 2nd Dec. Peace of Pressburg, 26th Dec. 1806. Establishment of the Rhenish Confederation. 12th July. War with Prussia. Battles of Jena and Auerstiidt, 14th Oct. Entry into Berlin, 27th Oct. Continental blockade. i The year had 12 months : Vendemiaire (month of the vendange, or vintage) from 22nd Sept. to 21st Oct., Brumaire (brume, fog) 22nd Oct. to 20th Nov., and Frimaire (frimas, hoar-frost) 21st Xov. to 20th Dec, were the three autumn-months; — Nivose {neige , snow) 21st Dec. to 19th Jan., Pluviose ipluie , rain) 20th Jan. to 18th Feb., and Ventose {rent, wind) 19th Feb. to 20th March, winter- months ; — Germinal {germe, germ), 21st March to 19th April , Floreal (/fe?/r , flower) 20th April to 19th May, and Prairial (prairie, meadow) 20th May to 18th June , spring-months ; — Messidor (moisson, harvest) 19th June "to 18th July, Thermidor (therme, warmth) 19th July to 17th Aug., and Fructidor (fruit, fruit) 19th Aug. to 16th Sept., summer months. — Each month had 30 days, and consisted of 3 decades, weeks being abolished. At the close of the year there were b jours compUmentaires , 17th Sept. to 21st. — The republican calendar was discontinued by a decree of 9th Sept., 1805. XX III. HISTORY. 1807. War with Russia and Prussia. Bsxttlcs oi Eylau and Fried- land. Treaty of Tilsit, 8th July. Occupation of Lisbon, 30th Nov. 1808. War in Spain , in order to maintain Joseph Bonaparte on the throne. 1809. Conquest of Saragossa. Renewed war with Austria. Battle of Eckmuhl. Vienna entered, 13th May. Battles of Aspern, or Essling, and Wagram. Peace of Vienna, 14th Oct. Abolition of the temporal power of the pope. 1810. Marriage of Napoleon with Marie Louise , daughter of Francis IL of Austria, 11th March. 1812. Renewed war with Russia. Battles of Smolensk and the Moskowa. Moscow entered, 15th Sept. Retreat begun, 19th Oct. Passage of the Beresina. — Wellington's victory at Salamanca. 1813. Battles of Liitzen, Bautzen, Grossbeeren, Dresden, Katz- bach, Kulm, Leipsic (16-18th Oct), Hanau, etc. 1814. Battles of Brienne, La Rothiere, Montmirail, Laon, Arcis- sur-Aube, and Paris. Entrance of the allies into Paris, 31st March. Abdication of the Emperor, 11th April. His arrival at Elba, 4th May. The frightful scenes of devastation enacted during the Revolution, especially in 1793, were at least beneficial in sweeping away the overgrown conventual establishments, which occupied the best sites and one-third of the area of the city. Under the Directory the museum of the Louvre was begun. Vast improvements were effected under Napoleon ; the mean buildings which formerly occupied the Place du Carrousel were demolished ; the N. gallery between the Louvre and the Tuileries and the handsome Rue de Rivoli were begun ; new streets, spacious markets, three bridges, several quays, canals, etc., constructed; numerous fountains and monuments erected ; churches restored and embellished ; the Bourse and other public edifices founded. 1814. Restoration. Louis XVHL proclaimed King, 6th April. First Treaty of Paris, 30th May. 1815. Napoleon's return from Elba; at Cannes on 1st, and at Paris on 20th March. Battles of Ligny and Waterloo, 16th and. 18th June. Second entrance of the allies into Paris, 7th July. Napoleon banished to St. Helena, where he died [5th May, 1821). 1823. Spanish campaign, to aid Ferdinand VII. , under the Due d'Angouleme, son of Charles X. 1824. Charles X. 1830. Conquest of Algiers. 1830. Revolution of July (27th-29th). Louis Philippe elected King, 7th Aug. Continued war in Africa; consolidation of the French colony of Algeria. Civic improvements progressed comparatively slowly under Louis XVIII. and Charles X. Under Louis Philippe they were resumed with fresh vigour. Many handsome new streets were III. HISTORY. xxi opened , churches and public edifices completed, vast works un- dertaken for the drainage of the city , new bridges and quays con- structed, gardens and squares laid out, etc., at an outlay exceed- ing 100 million francs. 1848. Revolution' of February (23rd and 24thJ. 1848. Republic. Sanguinary conflicts in Paris , 23rd to 26th June. Louis Napoleon, son of the former king of Holland, elected President, 10th Dec. 1851. Dissolution of the Assemblee, Coup d'Etat, 2nd Dec. 1852. Second Empire. Napoleon III., elected emperor by ple- biscite, 2nd Dec. 1854. AVar with Russia. Crimean campaign. — 1859. War with Austria. Battles of Magenta (4th June) and Solferino (24th June). Peace of Villafranca, 11th July. — 1862. Mexican expedition. — 1867. Dispute with Prussia about Luxembourg. 1870. War with Prussia. Declaration of war, 19th July. Battles in August : Weissenburg (4th}, Worth (6th), Spichern (6th), Bomy, Rezonville, and G r avelotte (lAth , 16th, i8tli), Beaumonf (30th). Battle of Sedan, 1st Sept. Surrender of Napoleon III. Republic proclaimed, 4th Sept. Capitulation oiStrassburg, 27th Sept., and of Metz, 27th Oct. Battles near Orleans, 2nd-4th Dec. 1871. Battle of St. Quentin, 19th Jan. Capitulation of Paris, 28th Jan. The Germans enter Paris^ 1st March. The siege of Paris in 1870-71 ranks among the most remarkable oc- currences in the annals of modern warfare. After the decisive battle of Sedan the victorious German troops pushed forvs^ard to Paris with- out delay, while the Government of the National Defence under Gen- eral Ti'ochu made the most strenuous exertions to place the capital in a state of defence. Cattle and grain w^ere sent into the city in immense quantities, the roads by which the Germans would probably march were rendered impassable, and the arming of the forts and the Enceinte (p. 157^ was proceeded Avith as rapidly as possible. The troops in Paris at the beginning of the siege numbered about 200,000 men, but of these 60.000 or 70.000 only were regular soldiers. The besieging force was com- posed of six army-corps under the Crown Prince of Prussia and the army of the Meuse under the Crown Prince of Saxony, the full strength of which consisted of 202.000 infantry, 34.000 cavalry, and 900 guns. By 15th Sept., 1870, the advanced guard of the Crown Prince's army was within 10 M. of Paris, and on the 17th a pontoon bridge was thrown across the Seine at Villeneuve St. Georges (p. 313). After a short but severe contest at Sceanx with General Ducrot, Versailles was reached, and here a few days later the German Headquarters were established (comp. p. 274). Meanwhile the army of the Meuse had occupied the ground on the right banks of the Seine and Marne, thus completing the investi- ture. The aim of the besiegers was the reduction of the city by famine, while the only course of defence practicable to the besieged was to pierce the investing lines and establish communication with the relief army on the Loire. The first important sortie took place on 30th Sept., when General Vinoy, with 10,000 men, made an ineflectual effort to break the German lines at Villejuif, to the S. of Paris. A secimd attempt in the direction of Clamart (p. 272) on I3th Oct., and a third on Malmaison and Rtizaiircil Cpp. 301, 208) on 2lst Oct. were equally ineffectual. It was during the latter that St. Cloud was set on fire by "a shell from Mont Valerien. The sortie of 29th Oct. towards the N. was at first more successful, as the Xxii TIT. HISTORY. Frencli gained possession of the village of Le Boiirget. The Germans, how- ever , succeeded in recapturing it on the 31st , after prolonged fighting and heavy loss. The besieged did not again assume the offensive till 30th Nov. , when Generals Trochu and Ducrot led large bodies of troops against the German positions on the S.E. of Paris. For three days the conflict was severely contested, but on 3rd Dec. the French generals were compelled to withdraw their soldiers, enfeebled by cold and hunger, into the city, leaving their object unaccomplished. A sorfie towards Le Bouvget on 21st Dec. met with the same fate as the others. In the meantime the besiegers had decided on a general bombard- ment of the city. On 29tli Dec. Mont Avron succumbed before the Ger- man artillery, and from 5th Jan., 1871, onwards an active cannonade was directed against the city from almost every point of its environment. The distress of the besieged now reached its climax. The hopelessness of the situation was recognised by all military authorities . but a final sortie was undertaken in deference to public opinion. The National Guards, who had hitherto been spared active service , took part in this sally, which was directed against Versailles . under cover of the guns of Mont VaUrien. The French were once more driven back, with immense loss, on l9th January. Resistance was now at an end. On 23rd Jan. Jules Favre came to Ver- sailles to negotiate an armistice , which was arranged on 28th Jan. On the following day the Germans were put in possession of the forts. The preliminaries of peace were concluded on 24th Feb. and signed on 28th Feb. Part of the German army made a triumphal entry into Paris on 1st Mar., but was withdrawn in' two days on the prompt ratification of the treaty of peace by the National Assembly at Bordeaux. 1871. Communist Insurkection, 18th March. Seat of govern- ment removed to Versailles, 20th March. Second siege of Paris, 2nd April. Peace of Frankfort^ 10th May. Paris occupied by the Government troops, 25th May. The Communist insurrection finally quelled, 28th May. — M. Thiers, who had been chief of the exe- cutive since 17th Feb., appointed President of the Republic. 1873. Death of Napoleon III., 9th Jan. — Marshal Macmahon appointed President instead of M. Thiers, 14th May. Final eva- cuation of France by the German troops, 16th Sept. — Macmahon's tenure of the presidency fixed at seven years, 20th Nov. 1875. Republican Constitution finally adjusted, 25th Feb. 1879. M. Jules Grevy becomes President in place of Marshal Macmahon. The Chambers of the Legislature return from Ver- sailles to Paris. 1881. Expedition to Tunis. — 1882-85. Expeditions to Ton- quin and Madagascar, — 1885. Peace with China, 9th June. Peace with Madagascar, 17th Dec. — 1887. M. Sadi Carnot becomes Pre- sident in place of M. Grevy, 3rd Dec. J Paris underwent immense improvements during the second em- pire. Dense masses of houses and numbers of tortuous streets were Ireplaced by broad boulevards, spacious squares, and palatial edifices. .^Public works of vast magnitude were undertaken , and those begun iiTi former reigns successfully completed. The Bois de Boulogne ' and the Buttes-Chaumont were for the first time laid out as public parks ; several other promenades and pleasure-grounds were either brought into existence or greatly embellished; and, what is of in- calculable importance, the city was thoroughly well drained, lighted, IV. GENERAL REMARKS. xxiii paved, and supplied with water. For several years after the war many of the public works were necessarily suspended, but the municipal authorities have done their utmost to remove all traces of the Communist outrages. IV. General Remarks on Paris. Paris, the capital and by far the largest town of France, covers an area of nearly 30 sq. M. and contained in 1886 a population of 2,344,550 souls. As early as the end of the 13th cent, the num- ber was nearly '200,000; in 1675, under Louis XIV., it reached 540,000; in 1789 it was 600,000; in 1852, 1,053,762; in 1860, after the inclusion of the faubourgs, 1,525,235; and in 1870, 1,825,274. The defence of this huge city is provided for by an elaborate system of fortifications, described at p. 157, and by a garri- son of nearly 50,000 men. Its administration is shared between a Prefect of the Seine, appointed by government, and a Totcn Council^ elected by the citizens. The annual budget amounts to 300,000,000 fr. (upwards of 10,000,000^.). Each Arrondissement (see p. 47) is governed by a mayor and two councillors. Paris is not only the political metropolis of France , but also the centre of the artistic, scientilic, commercial, and industrial life of the nation. Almost every branch of French industry is repre- sented here, from the flne-art handicrafts to the construction of powerful machinery ; but Paris is specially known for its 'articles de luxe' of all kinds. Paris has long enjoyed the reputation of being the most cosmo- politan city in Europe, where the artist, the scholar, the merchant, and the votary of pleasure alike find the most abundant scope for their pursuits. Nor does this boast apply to modern times only; for there have been periods when it was more generally admitted to be justifiable than at the present day. An idea of the importance of Paris so early as the 12th cent, is afforded by the mediaeval poems which treat of the traditional twelve 'Masters of Paris', who seem to have somewhat resembled the Seven Wise Men of Greece. For its cosmopolitan character, however, the city is chiefly indebted to its University, to which students of all nationalities flocked in order to be initiated into the mysteries of the scholasticism which was taught here by its most accomplished professors. At the same time in- dustrial and commercial pursuits made rapid strides under the fostering care of the monarchs and owing to the favourable situation of the city. The groat annual fair which took place in the extensive plain between Paris and St. Denis (Toire du Lend it) Sind the famous Commercial Code drawn up by Etienne Boileau in 1258 afford addi- tional proof of the early commercial importance of Paris, in con- sequence of which the population increased rapidly, and an exten- sion of the municipal boundaries was repeatedly rendered necessary. xxiv IV. GENERAL REMARKS. The building enterprise of the 12th and 13th centuries, though but few traces of it now remain, also bears testimony to the energy of the citizens at that period. During the subsequent centuries of the middle ages Paris was indeed deprived of the patronage of her kings, whose adverse fortunes frequently compelled them to give up their residence in the capital ; but the municipal element which thenceforward predominated, and which has found expression in the national literature and poetry, continued steadily to develop itself, and at the present day forms the chief characteristic of the city. The triumphant position of the French monarchy in the reign of Louis XIV. also contributed to the growth and embellishment of the city, and from that period dated many of the public buildings which adorned Paris down to the dawn of the new era in 1848. The decorative arts in particular received a great impulse, and now be- gan to extend their influence over the whole of Europe. As the monarchy engrossed the whole of the political power of the nation, so Paris gradually attracted to herself the skill and talent of the whole country. During the Revolution and the period immediately succeeding it, this system of centralisation, which had now reached its highest pitch, received a temporary check from the political dis- organisation of the day ; but under the Directory, and particularly during the first empire, the city speedily regained its pre-eminence. During the somewhat inglorious period of the Restoration the city enjoyed a golden era of prosperity, and the inhabitants reaped the benefits of the Revolution and the Napoleonic laurels without participating in the terrible sacrifices through which they had been attained. Persons of the more enlightened classes began to aspire to the higher ideals of liberty, whereby their energy and enthusiasm were stimulated, and the long lost blessings of peace now seemed to them doubly desirable. It was at this period that liberal politicians achieved their greatest triumphs, that French literature and art used their utmost endeavours to resume their world-wide sway, and that French society exhibited itself in its most refined and amiable aspect. At this period Benjamin Constant and Royer-Collard exer- cised very great influence on public opinion ; Thiers and Mignet, Victor Hugo and Lamartine began their respective careers; the 'Ro- mantic School' attained high importance ; and Paris became the re- cognised headquarters of Oriental studies and a number of other important sciences. What had been begun in the period of the Restoration was continued , though hardly with the same success, during the years which followed the July Revolution , until at length by the outbreak of a new Revolution in 1848 the municipal machine was again thrown completely out of gear. Under the sec- ond empire the city speedily regained her ancient prestige and underwent an almost entire transformation, on a scale of magnifi- cence Intherto unparalleled. At the close of that period (1870-71) V. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. xxv she was overtaken by appalling disasters, which indeed threatened her very existence ; but with her wonted buoyancy she has again almost entirely recovered from the shock, and has seldom or never presented a gayer and more prosperous appearance than on the oc- casion of the opening of the Exhibition of 1878. Persons well ac- quainted with the Paris of the earlier part of the present century sometimes declare that the former spirit of French society is well- nigh extinct; but whetlier it has really lost a degree of its character- istic sprightliness, or is merely superficially obscured by the ever- increasing anxieties of so populous a city, is a question which we need not here attempt to decide. V. Weights and Measures. (In use since 1799.) The English equivalents of the French weights and measures are given approximately. Millier = 1000 kilogrammes = 19 cwt. 2 qrs. 22 lbs. 6 oz. Kilogramme, unit of weight, = 21/5 lbs. avoirdupois = 2"/iQ lbs. troy. Quintal =10 myriagrammes = 100 kilogrammes = 220 lbs. Hectogramme ('/lo kilogramme) = 10 de'cagrammes = 100 gr. = 1000 de'cigrammes. (100 grammes = 31/5 oz. ; 15 gr. = V2 oz. ; 10 gr. = V3 oz- 5 "i^k gr. = V4 oz.) Myriametre = 10,000 metres = 61/5 Engl, miles. Kilometre = 1000 metres = 5 furlongs = about ^/g Engl, mile. Hectometre = 10 decametres = 100 metres. Metre, the unit of length, the ten-millionth part of the sphe- rical distance from the equator to the pole = 3,0784 Paris feet = 3,281 Engl, feet = 1 yd. 31/3 in. Decimetre (i/jq metre) = 10 centimetres = 100 millimetres. Hectare (square hectometre) =: 100 ares = 10,000 sq. metres = 21/2 acres. Are (square de'cametre) =: 100 sq. metres. Declare = 1/10 are = 10 sq. metres. Centiare = 1/100 are = 1 sq. metre. Hectolitre = i/^o t'ubic metre = 100 litres = 22 gallons. Decalitre = i/)oo cubic metre = 10 litres = 21/5 gals. Litre unit of capacity, = l^/^ pint; 8 litres = 7 quarts. xxvi VI. GENERAL REMARKS ON N. FRANCE. The following terms of the old system of measurements are still sometimes used: — Livre = ^2 kilogramme = i'/io lb. Pied = 1/3 metre = 13 in. Aune = IV5 metre = 1 yd. 11 in. Toise = 19/io metre = 2 yds. 4 in. Lieue = 21/2 miles. Arpent = I1/25 acre. Se'tier = I72 hectolitre = 33 gals. The thermometers commonly used in France are the Centi- grade and Re'aumur's. The freezing point on both of these is marked 0°, the boiling-point of the former 100", of the latter 80°, while Fahrenheit's boiling-point is 212° and his freezing-point 32°. It may easily be remembered that 5° Centigrade = 4° Reaumur = 9° Fahrenheit, to which last 32° must be added for tempera- tures above freezing. For temperatures below freezing the number of degrees obtained by converting those of Centigrade or Reaumur into those of Fahrenheit must be subtracted from 32. Thus 5° C = 4°R. = 9H-32 = 41°F. ; 20°C = 16° R. = 36 + 32 = 68°F. Again . — 5° C = — 4° R. = 32 — 9 = 23° F. ; - 20° C = — 16° R. = .32 — 36 = — 4° F. VI. Remarks on Northern France. The majority of visitors to Paris will find comparatively little to Interest them in the provinces of Northern France. The scenery is seldom so attractive as to induce a prolonged stay, while the towns are mere repetitions of the metropolis on a small scale. The modern taste for improvement , which has been so strongly developed and so magnificently gratified in Paris , has also manifested itself in the provincial towns. Broad and straight streets with attractive shop-windows are rapidly superseding old and crooked lanes; whole quarters of towns are being demol- ished , and large , regular squares taking their place ; while ramparts of ancient fortifications are converted into boulevards, faintly resembling those at Paris. Admirably adapted as these utilitarian changes doubtless are to the requirements of the 19th century, it cannot but be deeply regretted that the few charac- teristic remnants of antiquity which survived the storms of the wars of the Huguenots and the great Revolution, and have hitherto resisted the mighty centralising influence of the metropolis , are now rapidly vanishing. Those who were acquainted with such towns as Rouen and Angers about the year 1850 or earlier will now become painfully aware of this fact. The towns of France, as a rule, present less variety than those VI. GENERAL REMAKKS ON N. FRANCE. xxvii of most other countries. They almost invariably rejoice in their boulevards, glass-arcades, 'jardins des plantes', theatres, and cafe's, all of which are feeble reproductions of their great Parisian models. Each also possesses its museum of natural history, its collection of casts and antiquities, and its picture-gallery, the latter usually consisting of a few n\odern pictures and a number of mediocre works of the 17th and 18th centuries. The magnificent churches, however, which many of these t iwns possess, offer attractions not to be disregarded by even the most hasty traveller. The Gothic style, which originated in France, has attained a high degree of perfection in the northern provinces, espe- cially in Normandy, which was a district of great importance in the middle ages. Architects will find abundant material here for the most interesting studies, and even the amateur cannot fail to be impressed by the gems of Gothic architecture, such as St. Ouen at Rouen, or the cathedral of Chartres, notwithstanding the alterations which most of them have undergone. The Huguenots made de- plorable havoc in the interiors of the churches, and the Revolution followed their example and converted the sacred edifices into 'Tem- ples of Reason'. The task of restoring and preserving these noble monuments has been begun and is now everywhere progressing. HoTKLS of the highest class and fitted up with every modern comfort are found in such towns only as Havre, Rouen, Dieppe, and Tours, where the influx of visitors is very great, and where the charges are quite on a Parisian scale. In other places the inns generally retain their primitive provincial characteristics, which, were it not for their frequent want of cleanliness, might prove rather an attraction than otherwise. The usual charges at houses of the latter description are — R. 2 fr.. L. 25-50 c. A. 50 c. ; the table d'hote dinner (3-4 fr.) at 5. 30 or 6 o'clock is generally better than a repast procured at other places or hours. The dejeuner (11/2-2 fr.) at 10 or 11 o'clock will be regarded as superfluous by most English travellers , especially as it occupies a considerable time during the best part of the day. A slight luncheon at a cafe', which may be partaken of at any hour , will be found far more convenient and expeditious. In southern districts, as on the Loire , wine is usually included in the charge for dinner. In Normandy a kind of cider is frequently drunk in addition to, or as a substitute for wine. The usual fee for attendance at hotels is 1 fr. per day , if no charge is made in the bill ; if service is charged, 50 c. a day in addition is generally expected. At the cafe's also the waiters expect a trifling gratuity, but the obnoxious system is not carried to such an extent as in the metropolis. The Churches, especially the more important, are open the whole day ; but , as divine service is usually performed in the morning and evening, the traveller will timl the middle of the day or the afternoon the most favourable time for visiting them. The xxviii VI. GENERAL REMARKS ON N. FRANCE. attendance of the sacristan, or 'Suisse', is seldom necessary; the usual gratuity is ^2 franc. Considerable English communities are resident in many of the towns mentioned in the Handbook, and opportunities of attending English churches are frequent (e. g. at Calais, Boulogne, Dieppe, Havre, and Rouen). The Museums are generally open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays from 12 to 4 o'clock, when they are often crowded. Visitors may always obtain access at other times for a gratuity (1 fr.). Catalogues may be borrowed from the concierge. A fuller account of N. France will be given in Baedeker s Hand- book to Northern France, now in course of preparation. Remarks on French Art by Prof. Anton Springer. The visitor to the Metropolis of France will naturally be desi- rous of knowing something about the character and history of the national art, the chief monuments of which, at least in the provin- ces of painting and sculpture, are collected in the great public galleries of the Louvre and the Luxembourg. The Frenchman and the foreigner alike will be chiefly attracted by the works of the modern school in these collections ; but the works of an earlier pe- riod are also deserving of notice, both on account of their historical value, and as tending to throw light on the recent development and present position of French art. The different phases through which art has passed in France in the course of centuries have been surprisingly numerous. For a long period French artists served an apprenticeship with Nether- landers, Italians , and other foreign masters , until at length they evolved a peculiar style of their own which gained them univer- sal applause. They attained this distinction in the 18th century, and they enjoy a renewal of it at the present day, but their earliest triumphs were in the department of architecture so far back as the r2th and 13th centuries. It is well known that the Gothic Style was first brought to perfection in Northern France, and that it was after- wards more or less directly adopted and imitated throughout the whole civilised world. In France itself, however, its development was frequently interrupted by political dissensions and civil war. In the 15th century, when the country had recovered its political stability and was preparing to enter on a career of great historical importance , the Flemings took precedence of their French neigh- bours in the province of art. A busy traffic in works of art between the two countries now began, and richly-illuminated MSS. in par- ticular were frequently executed in Flanders for the French court. The precise period at which France ceased to be e.vclusively the recipient has not yet been ascertained. As a great painter of the 15th century, we may mention Jean Fouquet of Tours (born about 1415), who seems to have been educated both in Italy and in France itself. The Renaissance era now began , but it was not without hesitation that the French painters followed in the footsteps of the Italians. Francois Clouet, surnamed Jehannet (born at Tours in 1500, died about 1572), for example, still follows in bis portraits (Charles IX. and his consort) the stiff old Frankish style. The XXX FRENCH ART. architects, on the other hand , adopted the new style more readily, incorporating it with their own in a series of baronial chateaux, particularly in Touraine, and thus unconsciously, but elf ectu ally establishing the French Renaissance Architecture, a style which has to some extent again come into vogue at the present day. In the 17th century art in France was still dependent, partly on that of Italy, and partly on that of the Netherlands. Thus Simon Vouet (1590-1649) adopted the style of the Italian school, in which a stirring revival took place in his time ; and to the same school \)e- ]onge(\. Nicolas Poussin (1594-1665), the most admired master of his age, Avhose skill and industry, however, hardly sufficed to con- ceal his natural want of freshness and originality. His compositions are too studied, each group betrays the deliberate calculation with which it has been designed, and it is evident that his reason has too often entirely overruled his imagination ; whereas Rubens , on the other hand, an equally learned and accomplished man, has often obviously had difficulty in curbing the natural exuberance of his conceptions. Poussin's historical and mythological pictures are therefore rather admired as a duty than enjoyed by the spectator. His landscapes, however, particularly those of his later years, when his colouring moreover became more vigorous, are pervaded with a poetic sentiment which still renders them attractive. His most famous work of this kind is the 'Arcadian Shepherd', who is repre- sented kneeling before a tombstone and mournfully reading the in- scription, 'Et in Arcadia ego'. — Though a native of France, Claude Gelee, or Claude Lorrain (1600-82), does not properly belong to the French school, his style having been formed and matured in Italy. Claude and Gaspar Dughet, surnamed Poussin (1613-75), are among the most distinguished representatives of the idealistic school of landscape-painting, and Claude in particular surpasses all his contemporaries in his skill in presenting finely-composed and beautiful landscapes, with their characteristic accessories of cloud and atmosphere. Contrasting strikingly with Poussin , the next painter of im- portance is Philippe de Champaigne (1612-74) of Brussels, a master of great natural ability, who went to Paris early in life , and was much employed by Marie de Medicis, Richelieu, and Louis XIII. His religious compositions are tinged with the austerity of the Cistercian monks of Port-Royal at Paris, whose mystic and ascetic doctrines were highly revered at that period, while his portraits are remarkable for their warm, rich colouring and their strong individ- uality. Portrait-painting was indeed the province in which the French masters of the 17th century chiefly excelled. No one can now be roused to enthusiasm by Lesueur's (1617-55) feeble scenes from the life of St. Bruno, or admire Lebrun's (1619-90) theatri- cal heroism, unless it be remembered that he was merely a showy decorator and the 'Directeur dcs Gobelins'; and oven JouveneVs FRENCH ART. xxxi (1644-171?) able and vigorously-coloured works in Poussin's style will now interest but few spectators; whereas the portraits by Mignard, Largilliere, Riyaud, and others still delight us with their lifelike freshness and refined individuality. The ostentatious and declamatory element in French culture which was developed in the reign of Louis XIV. survived down to a late period in the 18th century. And yet there existed a second element, which played a still more important part throughout th,2 fr., first breakfast 2 fr., de'j. fll-1) 5 fr., D. 8 fr.. in a private room 12 fr., 'pension' from 20 fr. per day. — At the Hotel du Louvre: R, 4-22 fr., L. 1 fr., A. 1 fr., first breakfast IV'.' fr. in dining-room, 2 fr. in private room; de'jeuner 5 fr., wine included; table-d'hote 6 fr., wine included; dinner apart 8 fr. in dining-room, 10 fr. in private room. 'Pension' in winter 15 fr. per day. Next to these enormous hotels rank the following : — In the Rue de Rivoli: 172, Hotel du Payillon de Rohan (R. from 5, L. 1, A. 1 fr.) ; 206, *H6tel du Jarkin desTuileries ; 228, .*Meurice; 226, *Wixdsor; 218, *Brightox; 208, *Wa- GRAM ; 202, *RivoLi. The last five, opposite the Garden of the Tuileries (Plan , R, 18 ; //) , are much frequented by English tra- vellers. — Rue de Rivoli 83, farther E., *H6tel Ste. Marie (R. 2-6, dej. 3, D. 4 fr.). In the Rue St. Honore (PI. R, 18; //), first-class: Choiseul, 241 ; Hotel de France et de Bath, 239 ; Hotel de Lille et d'Albion, 223 (R. from 4-5, D. 5 fr.) ; Grand Hotel St. James, 211. Less pretending : *H6tbl d'Oxford et Cambridge, 221, entrance Rue d' Alger 13; de Londres et de Brighton, 300, entrance in the Rue St. Roch (Maison Meuble'e). Good second-class hotels in the streets lying between the Rues de Rivoli and St. Honors' (PL R, 18 ; //) : in the Rue St. Roch, DE Paris et d'Osborne (4 & 6), de la Couronnb (3), St. RoMAiN (5 & 7), DU Dauphin (12) ; — de la Tamise, Rue d' Al- ger 4; — Metropolitan, Rue Cambon 8. Near the Champs Elysees: Hotel Vouillbmont, Rue Boissy d'AnglaslS (PL R, 18 ; //); Perby, Cite'duRetiro5, near the Made- leine, well spoken of (R. & A. 4-5, B. I1/2 fr.); Miromesnil, Rue Miromesnil 41, to the N. of the Palais de'l'Elysee (PL B, R, 15), moderate and well spoken of. In the Place Vendome (PL R, 18; /i), first-class: *Bristol, Nos. 3 & 5 ; *DU Rhin, Nos. 4 & 6 ; Vendomb, No. 1. Information. 2. HOTELS. 5 In the Rue Castiglione , a handsome street leading sonthwanls from the Place Vendome, are the following large hotels, much fre- quented by English visitors : Continental, No. 3 (see p. 3) ; Bal- moral, No. 4; DE LoNDRES, 5; Anglo-Francais, 6; DOMINICI, 7 and 9 ; be Liverpool, 11 ; Castiglione, 12. In the Rue de la Paix, leading northwards from the Place Ven- dome: *MmABEAu, 8; DB Westminster, 11 & 13; de Hollands, 20; DEs Iles Britanniques, 22. In the Avenue de VOpera (PL R. 18, 21; //); *Bellevue, 39; *DBs Deux Mondes, 22 (R. from 4 fr.). — Adjacent: Hotel Normandy, Rue de I'Echelle 7 (R. from 4, A. 1, L. 1, D. 6 fr.); Hotel BiNDA, Rue de TEehelle 11 (view of the Avenue de I'Opera) ; Hotel Thbresb, Rue Ste. Anne llbis. In the Rue Daunou (Fl. R, 18; //) : de l'Empire, 7; de Ra- stadt, 4; DE l'Amiraute , 5; d'Orient, 6 et 8 (R. from Ofr,); DB Choisbul bt d'Egypte, 1 ; CHATHAM, 17 & 19 (R. ou the 2nd floor 8 fr.). To the AV. of the Rue de la Paix : Rue des Capucines , No. 5, Hotel de Calais; in the Rue Volney , No. 11, Hotel de l'Alma. In the Rue Louis-le- Grand (PL R, 18; //), leading southwards from the Boulevard des Capucines and intersected by the Avenue de I'Opera: de Boston, 22 (R. 2-8, dej. 3, D. 4 fr.), well spoken of; Louis-le-Grand, 2. In the Rue d' Antin : des Etats-Unis, 16; d'Antin, 18, these two second-class; Maisons Meublees, 20 and 22. — In the Rue de Port- Mohan : Grand Hotel de Port-Mahon, 9. In the Boulevard des Capucines (PL R, 18 ; /i) : Hotel db l'Opbra, 5; *DEs Capucines, 37 (R. 4fr.) ; two large Maisons Meu- hlees, 25 and 29. Near the Madeleine (PL R. 18; //): Hotel Lartisien, Passage de la Madeleine 4, unpretending ; Pfeiffbr. Passage de la Made- leine 6 (R. 3-6, D. 2-4 fr.); *H6tel de Sezb, Rue de Seze 16. To the W. of the Madeleine, in the Rue de V Arcade: Bedford, 17 & 19, office of the omnibuses of the Eigne du Nord ; Nbwton, 13, unpretending; de l' Arcade, 7. — In the Rue Pasquier: Bucking- ham, 32 (D. 4 fr). — In the Rue d'Anjou: Hotel du Prince db Gallbs, Nos. 24 & 26. — Boulevard Malesherbes: Hotel Males- HBRBES, 26. More moderate hotels in the conveniently-situated streets to the S. of the Boulevard de la Madeleine : Rue Richepanse, 11, Hotel du Danube (R. from 3 fr.); Richepanse. 14; Maison Meublee, 13. — Rue Duphot: DB l'Amiraute, 20; Burgundy, 6 & 8. Nearer the Op^ra, to the N. of the Boulevard : Rue de Caumar- tin, 14, Grande Bretagne (R. 3-6 fr.); 33 »)c 35. de St. Pkters- BOURG. — Rue Scribe, 15, adjoining the Opera, de l'Athexek (\i. 4-20 fr.). — Rue de la Bienfaisance 16, Grand Hotel Alex- 6 2. HOTELS. Preliminary ANDRA (boarding-house), a large house near St. Augustin, opposite the Avenue Portalis (dej. 3, D. 4 fr.). Boulevard des Italiens (PI. R, 21 ; //) : 32, and Rue du Helder 6, *H6tel de Bade (R. 4-6 fr.) ; same Boulevard, 2, and Rue Drouot 1, ♦Hotel de Russie (R. 3-25 fr.). To the N. of the Boulevard des Italiens, in the Rue du Helder: DU TiBRE, 8, inexpensive; Hotel du Helder, 9 (R. from 4 fr.); DU Nil, 10; *Richmond , 11 (good family-hotel; R. on the entre- sol 6, D. 5 fr.); *Du Bresil et d'Orient, 16 (R. 3-6 fr.); Maison Meublee, 13. — In the adjacent Rue Taitbout: *d'Espagne et de HoNGRiE , 4 & 6 (de'j. 3, D. 41/2 fr-) ; Taitbout, 12 (R. from 3 fr.). In the Rue Laffitte, also issuing from the Boulevard des Italiens (PI. B, 21; //): *Bykon, 20 (R. 4-6 fr.); des Pays-Bas, 32; de France, 33, beyond the Rue de Lafayette; Mecklembourg, 38. In the Rue Le Peletier^ parallel to the Rue Laffltte: de l'Eu- ROPE, 5; DE Nelsox , 13 & 15 (R. from 2 fr.). — In adjacent streets: Rue Rossini, 22, Grand Hotel Victoria ; 16, Rossini, moderate. — Rue de la Grange- Bateliere : de Jersey, 3 ; du Liban, 4. In the Rue de Lafayette, parallel to the Boulevards on the N (PI. B, 21): Suisse, 5, near the Ope'ra (R. 4, de'j. 3, D. 4 fr.). — Ad- joining the last, in the Cite d'Antin: Hotel de Famille, 10; DU Midi et de Pernambuco, 8, both third-class. Farther on in the Rue de Lafayette : Central, 56; d'Anglbterre BT DBS Antilles, 60. More remote. Rue de Chdteaudun 31 (PI. B, 21), Grand Hotel DE Chateaudun. To the S. of the Boulevard des Italiens (PI. R , 21 ; //), well situated : Rue de la Michodilre, 9, Hotel de Gand et J)e Germanie. — Rue de Choiseul, 23, Hotel du Canada et de Ohoiseul (R. from 3, dej. 272< D- 4: fr.). — Rue Monsigny, opposite the Bouffes Pa- rlsiens: 9,"db la Neva (R. 4-8 fr.); 1, Monsigny (R. 2-4 fr.), — Rue Marivaux: 9, Richelieu (R. 3-5 fr.); 5, Favart. — Rue de Grammont: 2, du Perigord (R. 4fr.); 1, de Manchester. In the Rue de Richelieu (PL R, 21 ; II, ///), to the S. of the Boul. des Italiens and the Boul. Montmartre : d'Orleans. 17; de Malte, 63 (R. 3-10 fr.); de Yalois, 69, these two opposite the National Library ; des Hautes Alpes, 12. — In the Square Louvois, *Gband Hotel Loutois (R. from 4 fr.). Rue Vivienne (PI. R , 21 ; II) : 40, Yiviennb (R. from 2 fr.) ; 41 & 43, Frascati (R.2-8, de'j. 31/0, D. 4 fr.), near the boulevards. — Place de la Bourse (PL R, 21 ; III): 13, Claise. Rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (PL R, 21 ; III), at the back of the Bourse : de Nice , 36 (R. from 3 fr.) ; de la Bourse et des Ambassadeurs, 17 (R. from 2 fr.) ; Suisse, 23, near the Rue Mont- martre ; DE Rouen, 13; National, 11. — Rue du Mail 33, Hotel DE Bruxelles (R. from 2 fr,). — Rue Feydeau 3, Hotel des Etrangers-Feydeau. Information. 2. HOTEI.S. 7 Rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs (PI. R, 20, 21 ; 77, 777), near the Palais Royal : db la Makine Francaise, 48 ; *uu Levant, 27 (R, fromSfr.); de l'Univers et du Portugal, 10 (expensive); du Globe, 4. Between this street and the Palais-Royal : Rue Montesquieu, 5, Hotel Montesquieu; 6, Duval, in the large Etablissement de Bouillon (p. 16). — Rue Radzivill, 31, * Grand Hotel de Hol- LANDE (another entrance Rue de Valois 46). — Rue de Valois 4, Hotel db l'Europe (R. 21/2 f^.). In Rue Beaujolais, Palais-Royal, No. 15: Hotel Beaujolais, unpretending. In the same neighbourhood (PL R, 20, 21 ; 777) are many small hotels of the second and third class, conveniently situated near the principal sights (R. 2-4 fr.). Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau: du Rhone, 5; des Empereurs, 20. Rue Montmartre (PL R, 21 ; 777), near the Bourse: Hotel db France et de Champagne, 132; d'Angleterre, 56 (R. 1^/2-4 fr.). Boulevard Montmartre (PL R, 21 ; 777) : No. 3, Grand Hotel Dore et des Panoramas (R. from 3 fr.); 10, de la Terrasse Jouffroy, Passage Jouffroy. Boulevard Poissonniere (PL R, 21 ; 777): *Beau-Sejour, 30, with fine view (R. 3-20 fr.); St. Phar, 32; Rougemont, 16. In the Cite Bergere, to the N. of the last-named boulevard, are some cheaper houses : de France, 2bis ; du Rhin, 3 ; de la Cite & Bernaud, 4 ; Lacombe, 6 ; des Arts, 7 ; de la Haute Vienne, 8 ; DB Moscou, 10; DBS Deux Cites, 12. — Rue du Faubourg -Mont- martre: DE Paris, 38 (R. 2-5, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr.), well spoken of. Rue Richer (PL R, 21 ; 777): Richer, 60, corner of the Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre (R. from 2 fr.); Bresilien, 3. — Rue de Maubeuge, 2, corner of the Faubourg Montmartre, Grand Hotel db Chantilly. Rue de Trevise (PL R, 21 ; 777). a quiet street : de Belgique et DE Hollands, 7; *de Cologne, 10 and 12 (R. 2-6 fr.) ; de Trib- visE, 18; DB LA Havane, 44 (R. 3-6 fr.). Rue du Conservatoire (PL R, 21 ; 77/), parallel to the last : *de Baviere, 17 (R. from 2 fr. 50 c); *de Lyon, 7. To the N. of the Boul. Bonne-Nouvelle (PL R, 24 ; 777) , Rue Mazagran : Mazagran. 4 ; de Nice et de Savoie, 12. At Impasse Mazagran, 4, is a good Maison Meublee (R. 4, B. 174 fr.). — Far- ther N., Rue de I'Echiquier, 36, at the corner of the Rue d'Haute- ville, which leads to the boulevard: *du Pavillon (R. 2-10 fr.). — Passage Violet, 4-10, between the Rues du Faubourg- Poissonniere and d'Hauteville : *Violet, a block of seven houses (R. from 3 fr.). The hotels in the Rue St. Denis, Boul. de S^astopol, Boul. de Strasbourg, and that neighbourhood, are somewhat distant from the principal sights, but well situated for business purposes. 8 2. HOTELS. Preliminary — Rue St. Denis, 155: *de Rouen, unpretending. — Rue du Caire, 4 : de France, near the Square des Arts et Metiers. — Rue Salomon de Caus, 6: Vauban, adjoining the square just named. — Boulevard de Sebastopol, 112: de France et d'Algerie. — Rue de Turbigo : Europeen, 67 ; Turgot, 76, near the Boule- vards. — Boulevard Voltaire, 10: des Etrangers, near the Place de la Republique. — Avenue Victoria, 20, near the Hotel deVille : Hotel Britannique. well spoken of. — Rue Me slay , 4: Hotel DE LA Place du Chateau d'Eau. — Boulevard des Filles-du-Cal- vaire, 11: du Calvaire. — Boulevard de Strasbourg, 20: de Sebastopol. — Others in this neighbourhood, see p. 2. In the Champs-Elysees: Meyerbeer, Rue Montaigne 2, at the Rond-Point; Suffren, Avenue des Champs-Elysees 71; d'Albe, Avenue des Champs-Elyse'es 101 and Avenue de I'Alma 73, these two with restaurants. — Near the Arc de Triomphe (PI. B, 12; i) : Rue Balzac, 11, Hotel Chateaubriand ; 4, Villa Balzac ; 3, Ho- tel DU Derby; 8, Hotel Beaujon. — Rue Chateaubriand, 18, Maison de Famille. Most of these are second-class family hotels. There are several Hotels-Pensions at Neuilly, near the Bois de Bou- logne, which are pleasant enough fur a long stay in fine weather but in- conveniently distant from the centre of the town. Left Bank of the Seine. The hotels on the S. side of the river, being at some distance from the Palais-Royal and the Boule- vards, are less conveniently situated than the above for sight- seeing, especially if the traveller's stay be short. Quai Voltaire, 19 (PL R, 17; 77), near the Pont des Sts. Peres : Hotel Voltaire (R. from 3 fr.). — Rue de Seine, 63 : du Mont Blanc. — Rue de Lille: des Ambassadeurs, 45; de Bearn, 38. — Rue de V Vniversite : des Ministres, 32; de l'Universitb, 22. — Rue Jacob : d'Isly , 29 , corner of the Rue Bonaparte ; d'Angleterre, 22; Maison Meublee, 58. — Rue des Saints-Peres, 65 : des Saints-Peres (R. 21/9-3 fr.}. — Rue de Varenne, 42 : DES Missions Etrangeres (R. 2-4 fr.). — Rue de Grenelle, 16 & 18: *DU Bon Lafontaine. — Rue du Vieux-Colombier, 4, near St. Sulpice : du Vatican (de'j. 2, D. 21/2 fr.). The last four hotels are frequented by the clergy. — Rue Bonaparte, 3 : de Londres, near the Ecole des Beaux- Arts (PL R, 17, 20; IV), patronised by visitors prosecuting art-studies; 27, des Belges. — Rue de Tournon: du Senat, 7, near the Palais du Luxembourg; *Foyot, 33. The following are in the Quartier Latin (comp. p. 217). Boule- vard St. Michel (PI. R, 19; 7): d'Harcourt, 3 (R. from 4 fr.); DES Americains, 14; DU MusEE DE Cluny, 18; DE SuEZ , 31 (dej. 11/2-2, D. 2-21/2, pens. 90-110 fr. monthly); des Etudiants, 32 ; Maisons Meublees, 21 and 41. — Rue Thenard, near the College de France : *Leger, 2, a family hotel. — Rue Racine, close to the Boule- vard St. Michel : des Etrangers, 2(R. & A. 2-4 fr. daily, 30 to 80 fr. and upwards monthly). — Rue de V Ecole de Medecine, 4 : *St. Pierre, unassuming (pens. 100-110 fr. a month). — Rue du Som- Information. 3. RESTAURANTS. 9 merard: l>u Midi, 22; dk la Loire, 20. — Rue f'asimir-Delavigne: St. Sulpicb, 7 ; des Balcons, 3. — Rue Comeille, 5 : Corneillb, adjoining the Odeon, unpretending. — Rue de Vnugirard, 54 : du Luxembourg. Furnished Apartments are easily obtained in all the principal quar- ters of Paris. A yellow ticket on the door indicates furnished, a white unfurnished rooms. In winter a furnished room in the vicinity of the Boulevards costs 80-120 fr. per month, a small suite of rooms 250-500 fr. ; in summer prices are much lower. 3. Bestaarants. Alphabetical list at the end of the Book, after the Index. Paris is indisputably the cradle of high culinary art. As the ordinary tables d'hote convey but a slender idea of the perfection to which the art is carried , the 'chefs d'oeuvre' must be sought for in the first-class restaurants, where, however, the connoisseur must be prepared to pay 10-15 fr. for his dinner, exclusive of wine. We shall enumerate a few of the best restaurants , especially those in the most frequented situations (Palais - Royal , Boule- vards, etc.). The least expensive are those at some distance from the most fashionable streets ; and at such establishments the cui- sine is often as good as in the more showy houses. The charges are stated approximately, but, like those of the hotels, they gener- ally have an upward tendency. Hours. The Parisian's first breakfast generally consists of a cup of coffee and a roll at an early hour. The second breakfast, or Dejeuner d, la Fourchette, is a substantial meal , resembling dinner, and is served at the restaurants between 10 and 1 o'clock. The Parisian dinner-hour is 6-8 p.m. ; to avoid the crowd, strangers should not be too late. Most of the restaurants on the Grands- Boulevards are kept open almost the whole night. '■Gar<;on.i L'addition, s'iL vous plattl' 'Waiter, the bill!' The waiter then brings the account from the '■dame de comptoir\ and on receiving payment expects a 'pourhoire' of 5 or 6 sous (3-4 in the inferior restaurants). When three persons dine together, it is sufficient to double the above pourboire. Restaurants a la Carte. At these restaurants (p. 12 & foUg.) the portions are generally so ample, that one portion suffices for two persons, or two portions for three. The visitor should there- fore avoid dining alone. It is even allowable to order one portion for three persons. Ladies may dine at the best restaurants with perfect propriety. Most of the larger restaurants , particularly those in the Boule- vards, have '■cabinets particuliers\ or private dining-rooms, with sep- arate entrances and a distinct staff of servants, where the charges are much higher than in the public rooms. The Bill of Fare usually presents a very extensive choice of 10 3. RESTAURANTS. Prdiminary viands. At the large restaurants whatever dish is selected is sure to be found unexceptionable of its kind, but at the smaller restau- rants it is not prudent to order anything not mentioned in the ^ carte du jour\ Waiters, when asked what can be had, naturally enumerate the most expensive dishes first. The following list comprises the names of the commonest dishes. The triumphs of Parisian culinary skill consist in the different modes of dressing fish and 'fllet de boeuf , and in the preparation of 'fri- candeaus', 'mayonnaises', and sauces. 1. POTAGES (Soups). Potage an vermicelle, vermicelli soup. Pate d''Italie, soup with maccaroni. Potage a la Julienne, soup containing finely-cut vegetables. Pur^e aux croutons, a kind of pea-soup with dice of toast. Consomtni aux oeufs pochis , broth with eggs. Tapioca, a kind of sago soup. 2. HoKs d'cedvee. Hiiitres, oysters. Edtiex, pieces of toast. Saiicisson, sliced sausage. Cornichons, pickled cucumbers. Tourte, pate with fish or meat. Vol au Vent, light pastry with meat. Escargots, snails. Orenouilles, legs of frogs. 3. B(EUF (beef). Boeuf au naturel, boiled beef. Boeuf sauce tomate, beef with tomato sauce. Beefsteak, or biftek aux pommes, beef- steak with potatoes (Men cuit, well-done ; saignant, underdone). Chdteauhriand, a kind of steak. Filet aux truffes, fillet of beef with truffles. Filet au Jus, fillet with gravy. 4. MouTON (mutton). CStelette panie , cutlets with bread- crumbs. Blanquette d'agrweaM, fricassee of lamb. Gigot de mouton, leg of mutton. RagoUt de mouton or Navarin aux jiommes, mutton with potatoes and onion-sauce. 5. Veau (veal). Ris de veau, sweetbreads. Fricandeau de veau, slices of larded roast-veal. Blanquette de veau, fricassee of veal. Cervelle de veau au beurre noir, call"s-head with brown sauce. Foie de veau, calfs-liver. Rognons de veau, veal kidneys, Veau rdii, roast veal. 6. PoRC (pork). Pieds de cochon a la Ste. Menehoidd, pig's pettitoes seasoned. Povc r6ti, roast pork. 7. VoLAiLLE (poultry). Chapon, capon. Poulet, chicken, prepared in various ways. Un quart de poulet, enough for one person, and even for two persons at the large restaurants. IVaile on la cuisse? the wing or the leg? the former being rather dearer). Croquette de volaille, baked fowl. Canard aux navets, duck with young turnips. Caneton, duckling. Oie, goose. Dindon, turkey. Pigeon, pigeon. 8. GiBiER (game). Perdrix, partridge (aux choux, with cabbage and sausages). Perdreaux, young partridges. Caille au gratin, qiiail with bread- crumbs. Filet de chevreuil, roast venison. Civet de li&vre, ragout of hare. 9. Patisserie. Pdt4 au jus, meat-pie. Pdf6 de foie gras anx truffes, a kind of paste of goose-liver and truffles. 10. PoissoN (fish). Saumon, salmon. Sole an gratin, baked sole. Limande, a kind of flat fish. Brochet, pike. Carpe, carp. Anguille, eel. Turbot, turbot. Raie, roach (au beurre noir , with brown sauce). Information. 3. RESTAURANTS. 11 ilaquereau, mackerel. Tndte, trout; tniite saiimotiie , sal- mon-trout. Matelote^ ragout of fish. Morue, cod. Monies, mussels. Ecrevisses. crabs. JJomard, lobster. Ci'evettes, shrimps. 11. Salades (salads). Salade suivant la saison , salad ac- cording to the season. Laitue (pommte), lettuce-salad. GMcorie, endive-salad. 12. Entremets or LifeouMES (vegetables). Lentilles, lentils. Asperges, asparagus. Artichauts, artichokes. Felits pois.gT&QXL peas(a?« 6eMrre,with biitter-sauce ; pur^e de pais, mash- ed peas). Haricots verts ov flageolets , smaWgreen beans, French beans ; haricots blancs or soissoiis, white beans. Choux. cabbages ; choux fleurs, cauli- flowers ; choux blancs , white cab- bages-, choux raves, kohl-rabi; choux deBruxelles.Brussels sprouts; choucroute , pickled cabbage {gar- nie, with lard and sausages). Pommes, potatoes (it is not customary to add de terre). Pommes f rites, fried potatoes. Pommes sauties , potatoes stewed in butter. Pommes a la maitre d''h6tel, potatoes with butter and parsley. Purie de pommes, mashed potatoes. Epinards, spinach. Chicorie, endives. Oseille, sorrel. Garottes, carrots. Navets, turnips. The bread of Paris is excellent Betteraves, beetroot. Oignons, onions. Tomates, tomatoes. 13. Entremets Sucr6s (sweet dishes). Omelettes of various kinds (an Sucre, souffUe , aux confitures , aux fines herbes, etc.). Beignets, fritters. Charlotte de pommes, stewed apples. Creme a la vanille, vanilla-cream. Tourte aux confitures, jam-tart. Nougat, pudding flavoured with nuts or almonds. 14. Dessert. Various kinds of fruit. Meringue h la crime, cream-tarts. Parfait, co£fee-ice. The Tisual varieties of cheese are : Fromage (it la crime) Suisse or Che- valier (the name of a manrifactii- rer), a kind of cream-cheese. Fromage de Grmjhre, Gruyere cheese. Fromage de Neufchdtel (Normandy), ^Neufchatel cheese. Fromage de Roquefort (Aveyron), green cheese made of a mixture of sheep's milk and goafs milk. 15. Wines. The finer wines principally in vogue are: — Red Bordeaux or Claret: St. Emilion and St. Julien (3-4 fr.), Chateau Larose, Ch. Latour , and Ch. Lafitte (6-8 fr.). White Bor- deaux: Sauternes (3-4 fr.). — Red Burgundy : Beaune (2V2-4 fr.), Po- uiard, Volnay, Nuits (4-5 fr.) , Ro- manic and Chambertin (5-8 fr.). White Burgundy : Chablis (I'/a- 272 fr.), Montrachet (4 fr.), and Hermitage (6 fr.). Vin frappi, wine in ice. Carafe frappie, carafTe of iced water. and has been famed since the 14th century. If the diner partakes of the ^hors cfceuvre presented to him between the courses, consisting of radishes, butter, prawns, etc., his bill will swell into proportions for which he is probably not prepared. A whole bottle of the ordinary red table-wine, or vin ordinaire, is generally placed on the table for each person. If, however, the traveller expressly states that he only wishes half a bottle, he has to pay only for what he consumes. At the smaller restaurants it is often advisable to mix the vin ordinaire with water or mineral water; the best-known varieties of the latter are Eau de Seltz (si- 12 3. RESTAURANTS. Preliminary phon or demi-siphon), Eau St. Galmier, Eau de Vals^ Eau de Mon- rand, and Eau Bussang. Restal-rants a Prix Fixe. The ^Dmer d, Prix-f.xe' resembles a table d'hote in being a complete repast at a fixed charge, which varies from 1 to 5 fr. in accordance with the number and quality of the dishes ; but the diner is at liberty to come at any time be- tween 6 and 8, and is enabled to dine as expeditiously or as lei- surely as he pleases. Payment in some instances is made at the door on entering. Where a whole bottle of table-wine is included in the charge for dinner, half a bottle of a better quality may al- ways be obtained in its stead. Meats and vegetables are served sep- arately, but may be ordered together if desired. The cuisine is sometimes little inferior to that of the best restaurants. These establishments are recommended to travellers who are not au fait at ordering a French dinner. The connoisseur in the culinary art will , however , avoid the 'diner a prix fixe', and betake himself with one or two discrimin- ating friends to a restaurant of the best class ; and even the soli- tary traveller will often prefer a less showy, but more substantial repast at a good 'restaurant a la carte'. Besides the restaurants enumerated here, there are many others of every kind in every part of the city. Wherever the traveller may chance to take up his abode, he may depend on obtaining a tolerable breakfast and dinner at some restaurant in the vicinity, although the house may not be mentioned in the Handbook. Restaurants a la Carte in and near the Palais-Royal. Galerie Montpensier (W. side) : Corazza, 9-12. — Galerie Beau- jolais. facing the Theatre du Palais-Royal on the N. : * Grand Ve- four, 79-82, one of the best-known restaurants in Paris (expensive). The celebrated 'Freres Proven^aux', formerly in this gallery, has long been closed. — Galerie de Yalois : Petit-Vefour^ 106-109. — Galerie d'Orle'ans [S. side) 30-40, towards the garden 208-213 : Cafe d' Orleans. Before entering the Galerie Montpensier from the end next the Louvre, we observe the 'Maison Chevet, Galerie de Chartres 13 and 15, an unri- valled emporium of delicacies, but not a restaurant. Those who wish to give a really good dinner get their materials from Chevet. Laffitte , the celebrated banker, and minister of Louis Philippe , is said to have sent to Chevet for fish for a dinner to be given at Dieppe. Rue de Valois 8, at the S. end of the Galerie d'Orleans : Au Boeuf d. la Mode. Restaurants a la Carte in the Boulevards. The even numbers are on the N., the uneven numbers on the S. side (comp. p. 1, note). Place de la Madeleine, 2 : Durand, high charges. Boulevard des Capucines : No. 39, Hill, good and not expen- sive; 12, Cafe de la Paix , connected with the Grand Hotel; 4, Cafe America in. Information. 3. RESTAURANTS. 13 Boulevard tics Italicns : No. 20, *Maison iJoree, fashionable; 16, *Cafe liiche, elegantly fitted up ; 13, *Cafe Anylais, similar; 29, *Cafe du Helder , de'jeuner on the ground-floor, dinner up- stairs. All these are expensive. — In the vicinity. Rue du Hol- der 7, Au Lion d'Or, 'cabaret fran^ois', quaintly fitted up. — In the Passage des Princes, near the Rue de Richelieu, Nos. 24-30: Noel-Peters, quiet. Boulevard Poissonniere : No. 32, Br eh ant ; 26, Desire Beaurain ; 16, Restaurant Rougemont , moderate; 9, Restaurant de France (Guillot), reasonable ; 2, Poissonniere or Notta. Boulevard Bonne -Nouvelle: No. 36, Maryuery, with terrace, a favourite resort of merchants, well spoken of. Boulevard St. Denis: 18, Giroux; 14, Maire (good wine). Boulevard St. Martin (or rather, No. 50 Rue de Bondy, which here meets the boulevard) : Lecomte. Boulevard du Temple, 29 : Bonvalet, not expensive, with a fine terrace. Boulevard Beaumarchais , 3 , near the Place de la BastUle : Aux Quatre Sergents. Other Restaurants a la Carte on the Right Bank. Avenue del'Opera: 32, Biynon (Cafe Foy) , expensive; 41, Cafe de Paris. — Behind the Ope'ra : Rue Gluck 8, Cafe du Nouvel- Opera; Rue Halevy 12 and Chaussee d'Antin 9, Sylvain. Rue Daunou , to the S. of the Boulevard des Capucines : 22, *Vian. — Rue St. Augustin30, Gaillon, at the Place Gaillon, well spoken of, quiet. To the S. of the Boulevard des Italiens, Rue Marivaux 9: Restaurant de V Opera-Comique. — Rue Gretry 1 : Taverne de Lon- dres. — Rue Favart 8: Morel. All these are near the theatre. Rue de Richelieu 100, in the court : Lemardelay. Place de la Bourse 13 : *Champeaux, with garden. Rue St. Honore' 261 : Voisin (good wine). At the corner of the Rue des Halles and the Rue St. Denis, near the Tour St. Jacques : Restaurant des Quatre Saisons. Champs-Elysees. To the left on entering, Ledoyen, to the right, des Ambassadeurs, both with fine terraces. Most of the restaurants here are expensive. — Hotel Suffren and Hotel d'Albe, see p. 8. Avenue du Bois de Boulogne. 10, Ory, moderate. At the end of this Avenue, i]\e Pavilions Chinois, in the Chinese style (p. 157). Bois de Boulogne. Near the entrance, close to the Porte Mail- lot : Gillet. Near the Jardin d'Acclimatation : Pavilion d'Armenon- ville, beautifully situated. There is also a restaurant in the Jardin d'Acclimatation. — The Restaurants de la Cascade (p. 160), near the Cascade and the race-course, and de Madrid (p. 160), at the gate of that name, are also well situated. Bois de Vincennbs. On the small island in the Lac des Minimes, Restaurant de la Porte Jaune (p. 206). 14 3. RESTAURANTS. Prelin unary Chbap Rkstaurants a la Carte abound. Besides the Etab- lissements de Bouillon afterwards mentioned (p. 16), the follow- ing may be named : Besson, Rue Bergere 17 ; Constant, Rue Maza- grau 7; A la Ville de Corintke, Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin 52. Restaurants a la Carte on the Left Bank. Quai d'Orsay 1 : Cafe d'Orsay. Rue de Lille 33: *Blot. Rue des Saints-Peres 20, corner of the Rue Jacob : Caron. Rue Mazet 3, first street diverging from the Rue Dauphine to the right when approached from the Pont-Neuf {V\. R, 20): *Magny. — On the adjacent Quai des Grands-Augustins , 51 : *Laperouse. Restaurants of every kind abound in the Quartier Latin. One of the best is Foyot, Rue de Tournon33, near the Luxembourg (PI. R, 19). — Boulevard St. Germain 110, opposite the Ecole de Mede- cine: Mignon. — Quai de la Tournelle 15, and Boul. St. Germain G: de la Tour d' Argent. Restaurants with Special Cuisine. English : Richard- Lucas, Place de la Madeleine 9, and Rue Boissy d'Anglas 28 ; Hill , Boulevard des Capucines 39 ; Weber, Rue Royale 21 ; Taverne de Londres, Place Boieldieu, opposite the Opera Comique. Italian : Beretta , Passage des Panoramas , Galerie Mont- martre (second on the left side) 12. Jewish Restaurants : Rue Mazagran 12 ; Rue Geoffrey Marie 5, 1st floor, D. 3V.2 fr., well spoken of. Restaurants a Prix-fixe in the Palais-Royal and Vicinity. Where two prices are stated^ the second includes a better quality of wine. Galerie Montpensier (W. side, pleasantest on summer after- noons, because in the shade), beginning from the end next the Louvre: — No. 23, *Rest. de Paris (Laurent Catelain), de'j. 2, D. 21/2 fr.; 40, 41, Vidrequin, de'j. 1 fr. 15 or 1 fr. 25, D. 1 fr. 60 c. or 2 fr. ; 65, Aux Cinq Arcades, de'j. 2, D. 27-2 fr. Galerie Beaujolais (N. side): 88, '^Tissot, de'j. l^, D. 21/4 fr. Galerie de Valois (E. side), returning towards the Louvre: 137, Richard, dej. 2, D. 2V2-3fr.; 142,145, Tavernier Ame, dej. 2, D. 21/2 fr.; 160, Rest. Henri IV., de'j. IV2, D. 2 fr.; 167, *Richefeu. dej. 2, D. 21/2-23/4 fr. ; 173, '^Diner National (Catelain Aine'), de'j. 3, D. 5 fr. (paid on entering). Passage Vivienne 18, at the back of the Palais-Royal, between the Rues Vivienne and de la Banque: Restaurant des Galeries, d^j. 1 fr. 15, D. 1 fr. 25 or 1 fr. 60 c. Rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs 5) near the Lonvre: Grand Re Information. 3. RESTAURANTS. 15 slaurant de I'Vnivers, dej. 1 fr. 10, 1 fr. 30, or 1 tr. 50 c, D. 1 fr. 20, 1 fr. 60 c., or2fr. Restaurants a Prix-fixe in the Boulevards and Vicinity. Boulevard Montmartre 12 , *Diner de Paris, an old-established bouse, dej. 3, D. 5 fr. Payment is made on entering. — Passage Jouifroy: 10, Restaurant de la Terrasse Jouffroy, dej. 3, D. 5 fr. ; 16, *D7ner du Rocher, dej. 21/4, D. 31/4 fr. Boulevard des Italiens 14, and Rue Le Peletier 2: Diner Euro- peen, dej. 3, D. 5fr. — Boulevard des Italiens 27: D7ner Frangais, dej. 3, D. 4 fr. — Rue Montmartre 158, near the Boulevard, Re- staurant Logette, dej. 1 fr. 60 c, D. 2fr. — Boulevard Poissonniere 24: Bruneaux, dej. 3, D. 4 fr. — Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle 42bis ; Restaurant du Gymnase, d^j. II/25 D- 2-2Y.2 fr. — Boulevard St. Martin 55: Grand Restaurant de la Porte St. Martin, d^j. 1 fr. 50 or 1 fr. 60 c, D. 11/4-^ fr. ; 15, Restaurant du Cercle, de'j. I3/4, D. 21/2 fr. — Boulevard Beaumarchais 1, adjoining the Bastille : Taverne Gruber, de'j. 2 fr. 60, D. 3 fr. , coffee included. Restaurants a Prix-fixe in Other Quarters. Avenue de I'Opera 28: Grand Cafe Restaurant, dej. 21/2, D- 3 fr. — Near the Madeleine, Rue Royale, corner of the Rue St. Honore': Darras, d^j. 3, D. 5 fr. Rue de la Bourse 3 : *Au Rosbifj unpretending, but frequented by a very respectable class, dej. or D. 1 fr. 40 c. Near the Tour St. Jacques, Rue St. Denis 4, on the first floor : Restaurant Chauveau, dej. 1^/^, D. 2 fr. Avenue des Champs-Elysees 71 : Suffren, dej. 31/25 D. 5 fr. Left Bank. Place de I'Od^on 2, opposite the theatre : *Hupet^ d^j. 1 fr. 50 c, D. 13/4 or 2fr. 10 c. — Boulevard St. Germain 262, opposite the Ministry of War: Restaurant de la Legion d'Honneur, dej. 27-2, D- 3fr. — Square Ste. Clotilde : Restaurant Ste.Clotilde, de'j. 1 fr. 60, D. 1 fr. 75 c. Tables d'Hotb. Visitors are generally admitted to the tables d'hote of the hotels even tbougb not staying in the house, but in some instances previous notice is required. The dinners of the three large hotels mentioned at p. 3 are patronised by numerous outsiders. — The following tables d'hote may also be mentioned : *Excoffier, Rue et Galerie de Valois, Palais-Royal, 43 and 105, d^j. 1 fr. 60, D. 2 fr. 10 c. ; Grande Table d'Hote Vivienne. Rue Vi- vienne 2, same prices ; *Richardot, Rue du Mail 6 and Rue du Fau- bourg St. Denis 19, same prices; Lecoeur, Rue Notre-Dame-des- Victoires 16, same prices; Table d'Hote du Commerce, Passage des Panoramas 24, same prices; Bouillod, Galerie Montmartre 6, d^j, 2, D. 3 fr. ; Table d'Hote de la Bourse, Rue Vivienne 47, d^j. Ifr. 60, D. 2 fr. 10 c. ; Blond, Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre 17, de'j. IV2, D. 2-21/4 fr. 16 3. RESTAURANTS. Preliminary Etablissements de Bouillon. These are restaurants of a peculiar kind, founded originally by a butcher named Duval. As in the case of the 'diners a prix- flxe', the number of dishes to choose from is very limited. The meat is generally good, but the portions are small, and each dish, bottle of wine , and even bread is reckoned separately. The guests are waited on by women , soberly garbed , and not unlike sisters of charity. These houses are very popular with the middle and even upper classes, and may without hesitation be visited by ladies. Each guest on entering is furnished with a card, on which the account is afterwards written. Usual charges: serviette 5, bread 10, carafon of wine 20, V2 bottle 50, 'demi-siphon' of aerated water 15, soup 25, meat, fish, etc., 30-60, vegetables 25 c. ; the charge for an ordinary dinner will therefore amount to 2-21/2 fr- or upwards. A fee of 15-20 c. is left on the table for attendance; the bill is then paid at the bar and receipted, and is finally given up to the 'controleur' at the door. The largest of these houses is in the Rue Montesquieu, No. 6, to the E. of the Palais-Royal. The following, among many others , are some of the principal branch-establishments : Rue de Rivoli 194 (Tuileries) and 47, Avenue de I'Opera 31 , Boulevard de la Madeleine 27, Boulevard Poissonniere 11, Boul. Montmartre 21, Rue Montmartre 50, Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre 48, Place de la Republique 17, Rue de Turbigo 45 (corner of Rue St. Mar- tin) and 3, Boul. de Se'bastopol 141 (corner of Boul. St. Denis), Boulevard St. Denis 26, Rue du Faubourg St. Denis 47, Rue du Faubourg St. Martin 33, Rue de Lafayette 63 (Place Cadet), Boul. de Magenta 101 (near the Gare du Nord), Rue des Filles St. Tho- mas 7, Rue du Quatre-Septembre 1 (near the Bourse), Rue St. An- toine 234, Boul. St. Michel 26 (at the corner of Rue de I'Ecole de Medecine), Rue du Pont-Neuf 10, Rue de Buci 18, Rue Sartine 8. Beer Houses. English, Bavarian, Strassburg, Vienna, and other beer may be obtained at most of the cafes (p. 17) and also at the numerous Brasseries, many of which are handsomely fitted up in the old French or Flemish style, with stained-glass windows and quaint wains- coting and furniture. Most of the following are also restaurants. A small glass of beer (un quart) costs 30-35 c, a large glass (un, demi) 50-60 c; brune, blonde, dark and light beer. On the Boulevards : Zimmer, Boul. Montmartre 18 ; Brasserie de Munich, Boul. Poissonniere 7; Gruber , Boul. Poissonniere 13 and Boul. St. Denis 15 (Strassburg beer); Miiller, Boul. Bonne- Nouvelle 35 and Rue de Richelieu 36 ; Ducastaing, Boul. Bonne- Nouvelle 31 ; Dreher, same boul., 26; Fritz, Boul. Bonne-Nouvelle 23; Schxvarz, Boul. St. Denis 4; *Taverne Flamande, Boul. de S^- bastopol 137, tastefully fitted up ; Tournier, Boul. de Sebastopol 135 ; Information. 4. CAFfiS. 17 Eden Brasserie, Boul. de S^astopol 17 (concerts in the evening); Uruher^ Boul. Beaumarchais 1 ; Grande Brasserie Rhenane, Boul. Richard Lenoir 3, Place de la Bastille. In other Quarters: Weber, Rue Royale 21 , near the Made- leine (English ale); *Taverne Montmartre , tastefully decorated, Rue duFaubourg-Montmartre61 ; Brasserie Dreher, Rue St. Denis 1 ; Cabaret du Lion Rouge, Rue de Rivoli 30, fine rooms. On the Left Bank: Lipp, Boul. St. Germain 151; Midler, Rue Soufflot 19; Aux Eschoiiers, Rue Soufflot 10. 4. Cafes and Confectioners. Caf^s form one of the specialties of Paris, and some of them should be visited by the stranger who desires to see Parisian life in all its phases. An hour or two may be pleasantly spent in sitting at one of the small tables with which the pavements in front of the cafes on the Boulevards are covered on summer - evenings , and watching the passing throng. Chairs placed in unpleasant proximity to the gutter should, of course, be avoided. Most of the Parisian men spend their evenings at the cafes, w^herethey partake of colTee, liqueurs, and ices, meet their friends, read the newspapers, or play at cards or billiards. Letters may also be conveniently written at a cafe', the waiter furnishing writing materials on application. Most of the cafes are open until 1 a.m., some even longer. When coffee is ordered at a cafe during the forenoon the waiter brings a large cup (une tasse, or une grande tasse, with bread 3/4-11/2 fr-, waiter's fee 10 c). In the afternoon the same order produces a glass of cafe noir, which costs 30-60 c. (waiter 10 c). A petit verre of Cognac or Kirsch costs 30-40 c. Sometimes a bottle of cognac is placed on the table unordered, and a charge made according to the quantity drunk, from 10 c. upwards. — Those who wish to dilute their coffee ask for un mazagran, and are supplied with coffee in a large glass and a bottle of water; un Capucin is a glass of cafe au lait. Tea is generally sold in portions only (the complet) , costing 1-11/2 fr- Dejeuner may be obtained at nearly all the cafe's for 2'/4-3 fr. , and cold meat for supper. Beer may also be procured at most of the cafe's, ^un bock\ costing 30-40 c, 'une canette\ 50-80 c. Liqueurs, diluted with water, largely consumed in warm weather are: Absinthe, Cognac, Bitters or Amers, Cura(;ao, Sirop de Gro- seille or de Framboise, Orgeat (prepared from almonds), and Sorbet. Smoking is generally prohibited at the cafe's until the evening, unless there be chairs outside. The best cafe's may with propriety be visited by ladies, but those on the N. side of the Boulevards Mont- martre and des Italiens should be avoided , as the society tliere is far from select. — Cafes Chantants, see p. 33. Baedeker. Paris. 0th Edit. 2 18 4. CAFES. Preliminary Cafes in and near the Palais-Royal. Galerie d'Orleans (S. side): Cafe d' Orleans (see p. 12). — Rue St. Honore: No. IGi , *Cafe de la Regence, opposite the Palais Royal, a famous rendezvous of chess-players. Cafes in the Boulevards. Place de la Madeleine '2, corner of the Rue Royale : Cafe Durand, also a restaurant, like many others of the under-mentioned. Boulevard de la Madeleine : 25, de Londres. Boulevard des Capucines. N. side: No. 14, Grand Cafe, ele- gantly fitted up ; 12, de la Paix , on the ground-floor of the Grand Hotel; 4. Cafe Americain. — S. side: No. 43, du Congres; 3, Julien; 1, Glacier Napolitain, noted for ices (see below). Avenue de I'Ope'ra : 41, Cafe de Paris; 31, Cafe St. Roch; 28, Grand Cafe-Restaurant ; 16, Nouveau Cafe. Boulevard des Italiens. N. side: 16, *Riche. — S. side: No. 29, ^duHelder; 1-3, Cardinal. Boulevard Montmartre. N. side : No. 16 , Cafe Mazarin (may be visited by ladies); 14, du Cercle; 8, de Madrid (good dej.). — S. side: No. 13, Veron; 9, des Varietes ; 5, de Suede; 1, de la Porte Montmartre (foreign newspapers). Boulevard Poissonniere : No. 6, Cafe Frontin. Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle. N. side: No. 44, *Cafe Fran^ais ; 30, *Cafe de la Terrasse (Chauvet), well supplied with newspapers, recommended for dejeuner. — S. side : No. 39, Dejeuner de Riche- lieu, glass of coffee 50, excellent chocolate 75, cup of tea 60 c. Boulevard St. Martin. S. side : 55, Cafe de Malte. — N. side : Renaissance, at the theatre of that name ; 14, Auberge des Adrets, with quaint rooms. Place de la Republique : 16, Grand Cafe Central. Cafes on the Left Bank of the Seine. Cafe d'Orsay , opposite the Pont Royal ; Voltaire, Place de rOdeon 1. The numerous cafes in the Boul. St. Michel are chiefly frequented by students and 'etudiantes' : 27, Vachette; 25, Souf- flet, corner of the Rue des Ecoles; 20, du Musee de Cluny^ at the corner of the Boul. St. Germain. — The Cafe Procope, Rue de I'Ancienne-Comedie 13, frequented by Voltaire, Rousseau, and Diderot, has disappeared. Ices. Ices (glaces) are to be had at most of the cafes in summer. The best places are the following: Tortoni, Boul. des Italiens 22; Jmoda, No. 3, and Rouze, No. 25, Rue Royale, opposite the Made- leine; * Cafe- Glacier Napolitain, Boul. des Capucines 1, fruit-ices (lV4fr.), etc. ; A la Dame Blanche, Boul. St. Germain 196 (on the left bank). — Sorbet is half-frozen syrup or punch. Information. 5. CABS. 19 Confectioners. There are two classes of confectioners at Paris , the Patissiers (pastry-cooks) and the Confiseurs (sellers of sweetmeats; see p. 37). The best patissiers are: Guerre, Rue de Castiglione 2, and Rue de Rivoli 232, opposite the garden of the Tuileries; Mignot, Rue Vivienne 27; Julien Freres, Rue de la Bourse 3; Favart, Boul. des Italiens 9; Jourlet, Avenue de I'Op^ra 14; Frascati, Boul. Mont- martre 21 ; Chiboust, Rue St. Honore 163. 5. Cabs. The number of cabs in Paris ( Voitures de Remise or de Place, Fiacres) is a'bout 15,000. Some have seats for two, others for four persons, besides the vacant seat on the box. Only those with four inside seats are provided with a railing on the top for luggage. There are also small omnibuses, with 6 seats, which ply for hire like cabs. The carriage-lamps are coloured differently according to the Depot to which the cab belongs, and, as cabmen sometimes raise objec- tions when required to drive to a great distance from their depot late at night, it may be convenient to note the following arrange- ments : cabs belonging to the Popincourt-Belleville depot (N.E.) have blue lamps; Poissonniere-Montmartre (central), yellow; Passy- BatignoUes (W.), red; Invalides-Observatoire (S.), green. Une Course is a single drive ; a I'heure, by time, in which case the hirer shows his watch to the driver. The hirer should, before starting, obtain the driver's number (votre numero!), which con- sists of a ticket containing the tariff of fares and the number, and keep it in case any dispute should take place , or any article be left in the cab. Complaints may be made to the nearest policeman, or at one of the offices which are to be found at every cab-stand. — The Tariff printed on the ticket handed to the passenger is as follows : — From 6 a.m. in summer From 12.30 at night | (31st March to 1st Oct.), till 6 a.m. in summer 1 Within the City. and from 7 a. m. in winter (31st March to 1st Oct.), (1st Oct. to 31st March), and till 7 a.m. in winter | till 12.30 at night: (1st Oct. to o 1st March): Per Drive Per Hour Per Drive Per Hour Cab hired in street: fr. c. fr. c. fr. c. fr. c. Ordinary Cabs for 2 pers. 1 50 2 - 2 25 2 50 Ordinary Cabs for 4 pers. 2 - 2 50 2 50 2 75 Omnibus for 6 pers 2 50 3 - 3 — 3 50 Cab from a remise : Ordinary Cabs for 2 pers. 1 SO 2 25 }« - }3- Ordinary Cabs for 4 pers. 2 25 2 75 Omnibus for 6 pers. . . . 2 50 3 - 3 - 3 50 20 5. CABS. Preliminnry Beyond the Fortifications. From 6 a.m. till 12.30 at niglit in summer or from 6 a.m. till 10 p.m. in winter. When the hirer returns to the town in the same cab: When the hirer does not return, he must make additional payment of: Cab hired in street: Ordinary Cabs for 2 pers. (Ordinary Cabs for 4 pers. Omnibus for 6 pers. . . . Cab from a remise: OrdinaryCabs for 2 or 4 pers. Omnibus for 6 pers Per Uour fr. c. Return Money fr. 1 1 2 c. 2 — In hiring by time, the whole of the first hour must always be paid for, after which the time may be reckoned by spaces of 5 minutes. Minutes 10 15 20 25 35 40 45 50 55 2 fr. . . 2 fr. 25 2 fr. 50 2 fr. 75 3 fr. . . 3 fr. 50 fr.c. -20 —20 —25 -25 -25 —30 fr.c.jfr.c. —35—50 —40! -60 -45 —50 fr.c.|fr.c. jfr.c. fr.c. -70^-85 1 -'l 20 -75i— 95 1 15; 1 35 65-85 1 05 i 25 1 50 701-95 1 15 1 40 1 60 ,|tr.. -50;— 7511 - 1 25 1 50 1 75 -60-90'l 201 50.1 75,2 05 fr.c. I fr.c. I fr.c. 1 35 1 50 1 70 1 50 1 70,1 90 1 70 1 90 2 10 1 8512 10 2 30 2—12 25'2 50 fr.c. 1 85 2 10 2 30 2 55 2 75 2 35' 2 65,2 95,3 20 The same charge is made for luggage in cabs of every class : for 1 box 25 c, 2 boxes 50, 3 or more 75 c. The driver is bound to place it on, and remove it from, the vehicle. No charge for small articles taken inside. The Bois de Boulogne and Bois de Vincennes are beyond the fortifications. The driver is bound to drive to any of the entrances of either (Porte Maillot, Dauphine, de la Muette, de Passy, d'Au- teuil ; de Picpus, de Reuilly, de Charenton) without additional pay- ment and without demanding return-money. If a cab is sent for and kept waiting more than V* hr., the driver is entitled to charge by time; if it is sent back at once, half a course., or if after 1/4 lir., a whole coz/rse must be paid for. If the cab be hired for a course, the driver may select his own route; if cf Vheure , he must obey the directions of his employer. If one of the passengers alights before the termination of the course^ no additional charge can be made, unless luggage placed outside the vehicle be also removed, in which case one hour must be paid for. Cabs hired d Vheure must drive at the rate of at least 5 M. per hour. If the cab is engaged before 12.30 at night the day-charges only can be demanded, if before 6 (or 7) a.m. the night-charges must be paid, although the drive be prolonged beyond these limits. Drivers are not hound to convey passengers beyond the fortifications between midnight (or in winter 10 p.m.) and 6 a.m. If the horses are used beyond the fortifications for 2 consecutive hours, the driver may demand a rest of 20 min. at the expense of the hirer. If Information. 6. OMNIBUSES AND TRAMWAYS. 21 a carriage is enj^aged beyond the fortifications to return to the town, the ti)wn-char[ies by time can alone be exacted; in the reverse case, the in- creased rate is ipaid from the time when the fortifications are passed. For a drive to a theatre, concert, or ball, the fare must be paid in advance. Drivers may refuse to carry a passenger on the box-seat, or to convey dogs or other animals. Gratuities cannot be demanded by the drivers, but it is usual to give 20 c. per drive, or 25-30 c. per hour, in addition to the fare. Those who are desirous of exploring Paris expeditiously and comfortably are recommended to hire a Voiture de Grande Remise (without a number) by the day (40 fr.). or by the week. Appli- cation should be made at the offices of the Compagnie Ge'nerale des Voitures, Place du The'atre Fran^ais 1, or Boul. Montmartre 17. 6. Omnibuses and Tramways. River Steamboats. The Parisian omnibus, tramway, steamboat, and railway services for city and suburban communication are admirably arranged, and, if properly used, enable the visitor to save so much time and money, that it will repay him to study the various routes and 'cor- respondances'. The plan of omnibus-lines in the appendix to the Handbook will be found useful, but its perfect accuracy cannot be guaranteed, as changes are constantly taking place. The traveller is therefore advised to purchase the latest Itineraire des Omnibus et Tramicnys dans Paris (1 fr.) at one of the omnibus-offices. Omnibuses and Tramways. Omnibuses and tramways cross the city in every direction from 7 a.m. till midnight, and at many points a vehicle passes every five minutes. There are also tramway-lines to Versailles, St. Cloud, and other places in the suburbs (see Plan in the Appendix). There are 34 different lines of Omnibuses, distinguished by the letters of the alphabet (from A to Z, and from AB to AJ). "With the exception of a few running in connection with the railways, all the omnibuses belong to the Compagnie Generale des Omnibus. There are two different kinds of vehicle in use : the old omnibuses with two horses and places for 26 persons (14 inside), and the new omnibuses with three horses and accommodation for 40 passengers. The new omnibuses are provided with a staircase similar to those in the tramway-cars, rendering the outside accessible to ladies. The Tramways, of which there are 40 lines, are divided at present into the Tramways de la Compagnie des Omnibus, the Tramicays Nord, and the Tramicays Sud, but it is proposed to amalgamate these three companies. The first 20 lines are distin- guished by the letters A to S and AB (preceded by T) . and the others by the names of their termini. The tramway-cars of the Com- pagnie des Omnibus are large and cumbrous vehicles of an anti- quated type, with 'imperiales' or outside places, to which ladies are admitted. Those on the other lines resemble the cars of most other towns, but most of them also have imperiales. 22 6. OMNIBUSES AND TRAMWAYS. Preliminary The termini of the lines are placarded on the sides of both omni- buses and tramway-cars, and another board is hung behind, showing the destination towards which the vehicle is proceeding. The prin- cipal places passed en route are also indicated, and the letter of the line is marked on different parts of the vehicle. The carriages are also distinguished by their own colour and that of their lanterns. Comp. the tables in the Appendix, pp. 24, 25. Passengers may either hail and stop the omnibus in the street as in England, or wait for it at one of the numerous omnibus-offices. In the latter case, if there are other intending passengers, it is usual to ask for a numbered ticket (numero; no charge) for the line re- quired. As soon as the omnibus appears, places are assigned to the ticket-holders in order; when the omnibus is ^compleV it drives off, and the disappointed ticket-holders have to wait for the next. The fares on all the lines within Paris are the same, 30 c. inside, and 15 c. outside (imperiale). The fares for places beyond the fortifications are from 10 to 50 c. higher (inside ; outside 5 to 25 c.) according to the distance. One of the most admirable features in the arrangements of the Parisian omnibus-lines is the system of Correspondances, or per- mission to change from one line to another. Thus, if no omnibus go in the direct route to the passenger s destination from the part of Paris in which he is, he may demand from the conductor a corre- spondance for the line which will convey him thither. He will then receive a ticket, and will be set down at the point where the two lines cross. Here he proceeds to the omnibus-bureau, receives a number, which, without additional payment, entitles him to a seat in the first omnibus going in the desired direction, and finally gives up his ticket to the conductor of the latter. Outside-passengers are not entitled to correspondance, unless they pay full fare (30 c.). The tables and map in the Appendix will show what lines have corre- spondance with each other. The letters in the second column of the table indicate the lines that correspond with the line denoted by the letter in the first column. It should be noted that the bureau de correspondance is not invariably the same as the office at which the passenger alights, but is sometimes a little way off. Correspondances are also issued at a small additional charge for places beyond the fortifications. River Steamboats. The Bateaux - Omnibus , or small screw- steamers which ply on the Seine, are recommended to the notice of the traveller in fine weather , as they afford a good view of the quays and banks of the river ; but being small , they are apt to be crowded. There are three different services, belonging, however, to the same company (Bateaux Par isiens) : (1) The '■Express steamers, plying from Charenton to the Point du Jour (Auteuil) ; (2) The 'Mouches\ plying from the Pont d'Austerlitz (Jardin des Plantes) to Autenil j Information. 7. RAILWAY STATIONS. 23 (3) The ^ Hirondelles\ running from the Pont-Koyal (Louvre) to St. Cloud and Suresnes. Comp. the route map and the table in the cover at the end of the hook. The steamboats known as 'Express' may be recognized by the benches placed across the bridge; they are slightly more comfortable and also dearer than the 'Mouches' and serve chiefly the left bank of the river, within Paris. The 'Mouches' skirt the right bank and are painted red. The 'Hirondelles' are white in colour and consider- ably larger. — The steamer 'Touriste\ see p. 300. The fares for the whole or any part of the distance are the same : Express 20 c, on Sun. and holidays 30 c. ; Mouches 15 and 25 c. ; Hirondelles 30 and 50 c. On embarking, passengers receive metal tickets, which they give up on quitting the vessel. 7. Kailway Stations. Chemin de Fer de Ceinture. The numerous railways t radiating from Paris start from nine different stations. All the lines have sub-offlces (bureaux suc- cursales') in various parts of the city, from which railway-omnibuses run in connection with the trains. Passengers may book their lug- gage, and in some cases even take their tickets, at these sub-offices, which, however, they must generally reach 1 hr. before the depar- ture of the train. The office of the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits (sleeping-carriages) is on the ground-floor of the Grand Hotel, Rue Scribe 2. The South Eastern Railway and the London^ Chatham, and Dover Railway have also offices in Paris (Boulevard des Italiens 4 and 30). The '■ Indie ateur des Chemins de Fer\ and the Livrets C/iajx(p. xiv) give complete information regarding all trains. — Hotels near the termini, see p. 2. I. Chemin de Fer de I'Ouest. Three Stations. (1). Gake St. Lazare, now being reconstructed (comp. p. 198), between the Rue St. Lazare, the Rue d'Amsterdam, and the Rue de Rome (PI. B, 18), for the Ligne de Petite Ceinture ; the Lignes de Banlieue, serving St. Cloud, Versailles (right bank), St. Germain, Argenteuil, and Ermont; and i\iQ Lignes de Normandie. — The rail- way-omnibuses start from the Place de la Republique, the Pointe St. Eustache, and the Quai de I'Hotel de Ville (30 c). t Railway- station , la gave (also Vembarcadtre); booking-office, le guichet or bureau; first, second, or third class ticket, un billet de pvemiire, de seconde, de troisihne classe; to take a ticket, prendre un billet; to register the luggage , /«/;•« enregistrer les bagages; luggage-ticket, bulletin de bagage; waiting-room, salle d''attente; refreshment-room, le buffetiihirA. class refreshment-room, la buvette); platform, le quai, le irottoir; railway- carriage, le icagon; compartment, ie compartiineni, le coupi; smoking com- partment, fumeurs; ladies' compartment, dames seuies; guard, conducteur; porter, facteur; to enter the carriage, monter en wagon; take your seats! en voiture! alight, descendre; to change carriages, changer de roiture; ex- press train to Calais, le train express pour Calais, fexprtss de Calais. 24 7. CHEMIN DE FEU DE CEINTUKE. Preliminary (2). Gare Montparkasse , Boulevard Montparnasse 44 (PL G, 16), for the Ligne de Banlieue to Sevres and Versailles (left bank), the Lignes de Bretagne, and the Chemins de Fer de VEtat. The booking- offices for the line to Versailles and for the suburban stations are situated downstairs, to the left; those for the main lines are above, reached by an outside staircase and by an inclined plane. (3). Gaee du Champ-de-Mars (or Gare du Pont de TAlma), for the short branch of the Chemin de Fer de Ceinture constructed at the time of the Exhibition of 1878, which is being continued along the bank of the Seine via Sevres, St. Cloud, and Suresnes to Puteaux (p. 271), where it will join the line to Versailles. n. Chemin de Fer dOrleans. Two Stations. (1). Gare d'Orleans, Quai d'Austerlitz (PI. G, 25], for the lines to Orleans, Tours, Bordeaux, etc. (2). Gare de Sceaux, Boulevard d'Enfer (PI. G, 20), for the local lines to Sceaux and Orsay-Limours. — Omnibus from the Place de la Bourse (30 c. ; 50 c. after midnight). in. Chemin de Fer de Paris k Lyon et k la Mediterranee. Gare de Lyon, Boulevard Diderot 20 (PL G, 25, 28). Trains to Fontainebleau, Dijon, Chdlon-sur-Saone, Macon, Neuchdtel, Ge- neva, Lyons, Marseilles, etc. IV. Chemin de Fer de I'Est. Two Stations. (1). Gare de l'Est, or de Strasbourg, Place de Strasbourg (PL B, 24), for the lines to Nancy and Strassburg and to Belfori and Bale, etc. The Belfort line has a special departure platform, to the left, behind the principal building. (2). Garb de Vikcexnes, Place de la Bastille (PL R, 25; V), for the line to Vincennes and Brie-Comte-Robert. — Omnibus from the Place de la Bourse and the Boulevard des Capucines, near the Grand Hotel (30 c. inside, 20 c. outside). V. Chemin de Fer du Nord. Garb du Nord, Place Roubaix 18 (PL B, 24; comp. p. 181), for the Lignes de Banlieue to St. Denis, Enghien, etc. ; and for the Lignes du Nord. The booking-offices for the trains of the Banlieue, except for the stations beyond St. Denis on the Chantilly line, are in front; for the other trains, in the arcade to the left. VI. Chemin de Fer de Ceinture. — The 'Chemin de Fer de Cein- ture' is a railway forming a complete circle round Paris, -within the line of the fortifications, and connecting the different suburbs. The length of the line is 23 M., but owing to the frequency of the stop- pages the circuit is not performed in less than 2 hrs. 5 minutes. For details see the table in the cover at the end of the Handbook. Trains run in both directions almost every i/o hour: in the oldest part, the section between St. Lazare and Auteuil, there are 6 trains per hour on week-days. The chief station of arrival and departure is the Gare St. Lazare (p. 23). There is no third class. The fare to the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, or any previous station, is 40 Information. 8. POST OFFICE. 25 and 30 c. ; to the Avenue du Trocad^ro, Passy, and Auteuil 45 and 30 c. ; and for all distances over 12 M. (including the entire circuit) 85 and 55 c. — Comp. the Indicateur des Chemins de Fer. Travellers may avail themselves of this railway to visit points of interest in the suburbs , such as the Bois de Boulogne, Pere Lachaise , and the Buttes-Chaumont, while those who have leisure may make the complete circuit of the city. On every side of the town, however, except the S.W., the line runs between walls or through deep cuttings and tunnels. The seats on the outside ('im- periale') are very draughty, and are not to be recommended except in hot weather. The Chemin de FerMetropolitain, or Paris Metropolitan Railway, which is to be finished in time for the Exhibition of 1889 (?), is divided into five sections: (1) The Li g tie Circulaire, traversing the outer boulevards (p. 69j; (2) Fr')m the Place de Strasbourg to the Place Denfert-Rochereau (p. 233j ; (3) From the Gare St. Lazare to the Gare du Nord (Gare de TEst); f4) From Les Batignolles (p. 196j to the Place de la Ripuhliqtte (p. 70j; (5j From the Place de PFtoileKp. 154) to the Porte^ Maillot (p. ioQ). The total length is about 22V2 M. The Chemin de Fer de Grande Ceinture, which forms a wide circle round Paris, connecting the Chemins de Fer de I'Est , de Vincennes, de Lyon, and d'Orleans, is of little interest for the tourist except for the trip from Versailles to St. Germain (p. 2S8) and for the excursion to the val- ley of the Bievre (p. 309). 8. Post and Telegraph Offices. Post Office. The chief entrance of the Hotel des Postes or Gen- eral Post Office, which has recently been rebuilt, is in the Rue du Louvre (PI. R, 21 ; ///). All the offices open to the public are entered from the colonnade on this side (comp. p. 166). There are also in the different quarters of the town 59 Bureaux d'Arrondisse- ment and 26 Bureaux des Communes Annexees , distinguished at night by blue lamps. The following are the Bureaux d'Arbondissement, or District Of- lices. (.Meaning of the asterisks, see below.) 1. Arrond. (Louvre): *''H6tel des Postes (p. 165); **Avenue del'Opo'ra 2; *Rue des Capucines 13; *R. Cambon 9; *R. St. Denis 90; -R. des Halles 9. — 2. Arrond. (Bourse) : **Place de la Boiirse 4 and R. Fevdeau 5; ~*R. de Clery 28; **R. Marsollier; -R. de Choiseul 18 & 20. — 3. Arrond. (Temple) : "R. Reaumur 47; *Boul. Beaumarchais 68; "R. des Haudriettes 4. — 4. Arrond. (Hotel de Ville) : 'Hotel de Ville, side, to the left; R. de la Bastille 2; R. des Francs-Bourgeois 29; 'Tribunal de Commerce. — 5. Arrond. (Pantheon): *R. de Poissy 9; R. Monge 104; R. Claude-Bernard 77; Boul. de THopital 26. — 6. Arrond. (Luxembourg): 'Boul. St. Ger- main 104; -'R. Bonaparte 21; R. du Vieux-Colombier 21; R, de Vaugirard 36; R. Littre' 22; R. du Cherche-Midi 53. — 7. Arrond. (Palais Bour- bon): -'Boul. St. Germain 242; R. St. Dominique 86; *R. de Bourgogne 2; 'R. de Crenelle 103; Avenue Duquesne 40. — 8. Arrond. (Elysce) : 'R. d'Am- sterdam 19 ; *Boul. Malesherbes 6 and 101 ; Boul. Haussniann 121 ; Avenue des Champs-Elysces 33; R. Montaigne 26; Avenue de Friedland39; Avenue Marceau 29. — 9. Arrond. (Opera): -R. Taitbout 46; * R. Milton 1; R. de Clichy 83; -R. Ste. Cecile 2; 'R. de la Favette 35; R. Bleue 14. — 10. Arrond. (St. Laurent): 'R. d'Enghien2l; R. des Ecluses St. Martin 4; R. de Strasbourg 8 (Gare de TEst) ; Gare du Nord: Place de la Re'publique 10. — 11. Arrond. (Popincourt): Boul. Richard-Lenoir lOS ; Boul. Vol- taire 105; Boul. de Belleville 45. — 12. Arrond. (Reuilly): R. de Citeaux 26 8. POST OFFICE. Preliminary 40; Boiil. Diderot 19 (Gare de Lyon). — 13. Arvond. (Gobelins): Boul. de rilopital 26 (Gare d'Orleans). — M. Arrond. (Observatoire) : Boul. du Montparnasse 174. The ordinary offices are open daily from 7 a.m. (8 a.m. in winter) till 9 p.m. Letters for the evening-trains must he posted at the ordinary offices hefore 5.30 p.m.; at the offices marked with one asterisk before 5.45 p.m.; at those with two asterisks hefore 6 p.m. ; at the railway-stations they may be posted till within 5-10 minutes of the starting of the trains. The Poste Restante Office is in the General Post Office and is open till 10 p.m. (Sun. 7 p.m.). Travellers may also direct poste restante letters to be addressed to any of the district-offices. In ap- plying for letters, the written or printed name, and in the case of registered letters , the passport of the addressee should always be presented. It is, however, preferable to desire letters to be addressed to the hotel or boarding-house where the visitor intends residing. Letter-boxes (Boites aux Lettres) are also to be found at most public buildings and in all tobacconists' shops, where stamps (tim- bres-poste) may also be purchased. Postage of Letters, Post-Cards, Printed Papers, etc. Ordinary Letters within France, including Corsica and Algeria, 15 c. per 15 grammes prepaid ; for countries of the Postal Union 25 c. (The silver franc and the bronze sou each weigh 5 grammes ; 15 grammes, or three of these coins, are equal to 1/2 oz. English.) — Registered Letters (lettres recommanddes) 25 c. extra. Post Cards 10 c. each, with card for reply attached, 20 c. Post Office Orders (mandats de poste) are issued for most countries in the Postal Union at a charge of 25 c. for every 25 fr. or fraction of 25 fr., the maximum sum for which an order is obtainable being 500 fr. ; for Great Britain, 20 c. per 10 fr., maximum 252 fr. Printed Papers (imprimis sous bande): 1 c. per 5 grammes up to the weight of 20 gr.; 5 c. between 20 and 50 gr.; above 50 gr. 5 c. for each 50 gr. or fraction of 50 gr. ; to foreign countries 5 c. per 50 gr. The wrapper must be easily removable, and must not cover more than one-third of the packet. Parcels. Small parcels not exceeding 7 lbs in weight may be forwarded by post at a moderate rate within France and to some of the other countries of the Postal Union. To England, parcels not exceeding 3 lbs. (1360 grammes) 1 fr. 60 c. ; from 3 to Gi/olbs., 2 fr. 10 c. — The following Expediteurs, or goods-agents, may be recommended : Camus ^^ Cie., Rue Daunou 20 and Rue du Fau- bourg-Poissonniere 25 ; MiXller^ Co.., Rue d'Hauteville 47 ; E. Herse, Rue de Trevise 35t>is (for Germany and Russia); Elie Marcon tj- Co., Rue de la Grange-Bateliere 26 (for Russia). Telegraph. The telegraph-offices at the district post-offices are open to 9 p.m. The following amongst others are open till 11 p.m. : Place du Havre; Rue Boissy d'Anglas 3; Boul. St. Denis 16; Rue des Halles 9 ; Avenue des Champs-Elysees 33 ; Gares du Nord, de Lyon, and d'Orleans; Place de la Republique 10. The office at Avenue de I'Op^ra 4 is open to 11.30 p.m. and that at the Grand Hotel till midnight. Telegrams may be sent at any hour of the day Information. 9. THEATRES. 27 or night from the offices at the Bourse (night eiitr. on the left) and Rue de Grenelle 103. For the countries of Europe and for Algeria telegrams are charged for at the following rates per word: for France 5 c. (minimum charge 50 c.); Algeria and Tunis 10 c. (minimum 1 fr.) ; Luxembourg 12V-.J c. ; Switzerland and Belgium 15 c. ; Germany, Netherlands, Italy, and Spain 20 c. ; Great Britain. Denmark, and Portugal 25 c. ; Austria 30 c. ; Hungary, Roumania, etc., 35; Sweden and Xorway 45; Russia in Europe 60 c. ; Greece 55-70 c. There is also a system of Pnbumatic Tubes { Telegraphic pneu- matique) for the transmission of messages within Paris, at the rate of 30 c. for open cards (cartes telegrammes ouvertesj , 50 c. for closed cards (cartes telegrammes fermees), and 75 c. for letters not weighing more than 7 grammes. The cards may be obtained at the telegraph-offices, to which special letter-boxes for the pneumatic post are also attached. Telephone. Most of the post and telegraph offices have tele- phonic communication with all parts of Paris (fee 50 c. per 5 min,). The office at the Exchange also communicates with Rheims, Rouen, and Havre (1 fr.J and with Brussels (2 fr.). 9. Theatres, Circuses, Fanoramas. Paris now possesses upwards of 20 large theatres, in the proper sense of the word, and the traveller doing the 'sights' of Paris should not omit to visit some at least of the principal houses. An intimate acquaintance with colloquial French, such as can be ac- quired only by prolonged residence in the country, is absolutely necessary for the thorough appreciation of the acting ; visitors are therefore strongly recommended to purchase the play [la piece; 1-2 fr.) to be performed, and peruse it beforehand. Dramatic com- positions of every kind are sold by Tresse, Palais-Royal, Theatre Fran^ais 8-11, Ollendorff., Rue de Richelieu 28biSj at the .T/ayas in Thedtral, Boul. St. Martin 12, and at the Librairie Nouvelle, Boulevard des Italieiis 15. The plays may also be procured in most instances at the theatres themselves. Performances generally begin between 7.30 and 8.30 p.m., and last till nearly midnight. Two or three pieces are as a rule played each evening, the first being the so-called lever rideau, a one-act piece or farce during which the house gradually fills. Play-bills (le programme, le programme detaille) , or theatrical newspapers with the programme of the evening (VEntre-Acte, VOrchestre, and others), are sold in the theatres. Some of the other newspapers, particularly those published in the afternoon, give lists of the pieces and characters. The best seats are the fauteuils d'orchestre, or seats next to the orchestra, behind which are the stalles d'orchestre. The fauteuils d' amphitheatre in the Opera House may also be recommended, but in most other theatres the amphitheatre is indifferent both for seeing 28 9. THEATRES. Preliminary and hearing. The fauteuils de balcon, or de la premiere galerie, corresponding to the English dress-oircle, are good seats, especially for ladies. The centre seats in the two following galleries (loges des prem,ieres, des secondes de face) come next in point of comfort. The avant-scenes or loges d' av ant- scenes are the stage-boxes, which may be du rez-de-chaussee (on a level with the stage), de balcon, etc. Baignoires, or loges du rez-de-chaussee, are the other boxes on the ground-floor of the theatre. At several of the theatres ladies are not admitted to the orchestra stalls , the space between each row of seats being so narrow, that even gentlemen have some difficulty in passing in and out. The arrangement and naming of the seats differ in the different theatres, but in all of them the side-seats of the two upper galleries should be avoided. At the Opera the stalles de parterre, behind the fauteuils d'orchestre, are rendered unplea- sant by the presence of the 'claque'. As a rule the price of a seat is the best criterion of its desirability. It is a wise precaution, especially in the case of very popular performances and when ladies are of the party, to secure a good seat by purchasing a ticket beforehand (billet en location) at the office of the theatre (bureau de location, generally open from 10 or 11 to 6j, where a plan of the interior is shown. Seats booked in this manner generally cost Y2~2 fr. more than au bureau, i.e. at the door, but the purchaser has the satisfaction of knowing that his seat is numbered and reserved. Box-places, however, cannot thus be ob- tained in advance except by taking a whole box (4-6 seats). Places may also be secured beforehand at one of the theatrical offices in the Boulevards, but the booking-fee demanded there is often 5fr. and upwards. The 'Figaro' (see p. 42) has opened an office in its Salle des Nouvelles, Rue Drouot 26, where theatre-tickets are sold without extra charge. Visitors are cautioned against purchasing their tickets from vendors in the street. The different charges for admission given below vary according to the season and the popularity of the piece and of the actors. At the so-called premieres (scil, representations^, or first performances of pieces by favourite authors, the charges for boxes are often extravagantly high. The parterre or pit is always crowded , and the places are not numbered, except at the Opera. Those who wish to secure a tolerable seat in this part of the theatre should be at the door at least an hour before the beginning of the performance , and fall into the rank (faire queue) of other expectants. The doors are opened half-an-hour before the curtain rises. AVomen are seldom seen in the parterre, except in the smaller theatres. Tickets taken at the door are not numbered, and do not give the purchaser a right to any particular seat in the part of the house to which they apply. The door-keeper will direct the visitor to one of the un- engaged places; but if any unfair play be suspected, visitors may demand la fenille de location, or list of seats booked for the night, and choose any seats which do not appear on this list. Information. 9. THEATRES. 29 The Claque C Romains'' . '■Chevaliers du Luslre'')., or paid applauders, form an annoying, althougii characteristic feature in most of the theatres. They generally occupy the centre seats in the pit, under the chandelier or 'iustre', and are easily recognised by the obtrusive and simultaneous vigour of their exertions. There are even ''entvepreneuvs de succH dra- matiques\ a class of mercantile adventures who furnish theatres with claqxies at stated terms. Strange as it may seem to the visitor, all attempts to abolish this nuisance have hitherto failed. Overcoats, cloaks, shawls, etc., are left at the 'Vestiaire'' or cloak- room (fee 25-50 c. each person). Gentlemen take their hats into the theatre, and may wear them during the intervals of the performances. The atten- dants of the vestiaire usually bring a footstool (petit banc) for ladies, for which they expect a gratuity of iU-2o c. A list of the most important Parisian theatres , in their usual order, is here annexed. The Opera (PI. B, R, 18; JI). The admirable performances of the Parisian opera take place onMon., Wed., and Frid., in winter on Sat. also. The ballet and the mise en scene are unsurpassed. Govern- ment allots an annual subvention of 800, 000 fr. towards the support of the Opera. The staff of performers is about 250 in number. A good tenor receives a salary of 100-120,000 fr. Composers and au- thors of new pieces are entitled to 7 per cent of the gross receipts in the first year of performance and 8 per cent in all subsequent years. — The seats are all comfortable. Avant-scenes, entre-colonnes, and loges de face des premieres 17; fauteuils d' amphitheatre 15; fauteuils d'orchestre, avant-scenes, and loges de face des secondes 14; loges deface and entre-colonnes des troisiemes 8; fauteuils d'amphiteatre des quatriemes 4; quatriemes de faceSfr. Ladies are not admitted to the orchestra seats. Evening-dress de rigueur in the fauteuils d'orchestre and the 1st gallery. The The&tre Francais (PI. R, 21 ; //), or Comedie Francaise, Place du The'atre-Fran^ais, on the S.W. side of the Palais-Royal, occupies the highest rank among the theatres of Paris. The acting is admirable, and the plays are generally of a high class. Thistheatre was founded in 1600, and was under the superintendence of Mo- liere from 1058 down to his death in 1673. The theatre receives a subsidy of 240,000 fr. a year from government. For a description of the edifice itself, see p. 58. — Avant-scenes des premieres loges 10 ; loges du rez-de-chaussee, premieres (first gallery), avant- scSnes des douxiemes, and baignoires de face 8; fauteuils de bal- con 7; fauteuils d'orchestre and loges de face de deuxieme rang 6; loges de'couvertes de deuxieme rang 5 ; loges de face de troisieme rang 81/2 ; loges de'couvertes de troisieme rang 3 ; parterre 2^/0 fr. — Ladies are not admitted to the orchestra seats. The Opera Comique (PL R, 21 ; II), Place Boieldieu, was de- stroyed on May 25th, 1887, by a terrible fire accompanied by a great loss of life. It was intended originally for the performance of the lesser operas, such as La Dame Blanche, the Postilion de Lon- jumeau, Fra Diavolo, etc., but has latterly been devoted to the more ambitious operas and to lyri(%al dramas such as Miffnon, Romeo and 30 9. THEATRES. Preliminary Juliet, Lakme, Carmen, etc. It receives an annual subsidy of 300,000 fr. from government. At present the Opera Comique is in- stalled in the theatre in the Place du Chatelet, known successively as the Theatre Lyrique, Th. Historique, Th. des Nations, and Th. de Paris (Fl. R, 23; V). — Avant-scenes du rez-de-chaussee et de balcon. baignoires d^avant-scenes 10 fr.; loges de balcon de face, baignoires , fanteuils d'orchestre and faut. de balcon 8 ; avant- scenes, loges a salon, and loges decouvertes de la premiere galerie 6 ; loges de face and loges couvertes de la premiere galerie 5 ; fauteuils de la deuxieme galerie 4 ; stalles de parterre 3 ; stalles de la deuxieme galerie 2^2 fr- The Odeon, Place de I'Ode'on (PI. R, 19; /F), near the Palais du Luxembourg (p. 243), ranks next to the The'atre Fran^ais, and is chiefly devoted to the performance of classical dramas. An- nual subvention from government, 100,000 fr. A large proportion of the audience consists of students , especially at the Monday performances with reduced prices. Some of the plays of Casi- mir Delavigne, Ponsard, and George Sand were performed here for the first time. The Odeon is closed in June. July, and August. — Avant-scenes des premieresand du rez-de-chaussee 12fr.; baignoires d'avant-scene 10 ; premieres loges de face 8 ; fauteuils d'orchestre 6 ; fauteuils de la premiere galerie 5 ; stalles de la deuxieme galerie 3'/-); deux, loges de face and parterre 3; parterre 2i/2fr. 'The Gymnase (PI. R, 24; ///), Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle 38, chiefly for comedies , deserves commendation , and its pieces are frequently deemed worthy of being performed in the Theatre Fran^ais. Scribe wrote most of his plays for this theatre. Vict. Sar- dou, Alex. Dumas the Younger, Emile Augier, and Octave Feuillet have also achieved great successes here. — Avant-scenes 12 fr. ; loges de balcon, fauteuils d'orchestre and de balcon 8; avant- scenes et loges de foyer 5 ; deuxieme galerie 21/2 fr- The VaudeviUe (PL R, 18, 21; /i), at the corner of the Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin and the Boulevard des Capucines, a hand- some building, completed in 1869, is admirably fitted up. It is chiefly destined for vaudevilles and comedies. — Avant-scenes du rez-de-chaussee and des premieres 12^2; fauteuils de balcon, premier rang 8; fauteuils d'orchestre or de premiere galerie , and premieres loges de face 7 ; avant-scenes or loges de foyer 5 fr. The Varietes (PI. R, 21; ///), Boulevard Montmartre, excel- lent for vaudevilles, farces, operettas, and similar lively pieces of essentially Parisian character. — Avant-scenes 10; fauteuils d'or- chestre 7 ; stalles d'orchestre 4 ; galeries des deux, or trois. loges 2 fr. The&tre du Palais-Royal , at the N.W. corner of the Palais Royal, 74, 75 (PI. R, 21 ; 77), a small but very popular theatre, where vaudevilles and farces of broad character are performed. — Avant-scenes 8fr. ; fauteuils de premiere galerie and d'orchestre 7; fauteuils de balcon des deuxiemes and deuxiemes de face 5 ; avant- Information. 9. THEATRES. 31 scenes des deuxiemes and stalles d'orchestre 4 ; stalles des troisiomes 2^2 fr. Ladies not admitted to the orchestra places. Bouifes Parisiens (Pi. R, 21; //), a small theatre in the Pas- sage Choiseul near the Italian Opera, the specialty of which is comic operettas and parodies. It was established by Offenbach in 1855. — Avant-scenes 10 ; fauteiiils d'orchestre 6 fr. — Ladies not ad- mitted to the orchestra stalls. The&tre de la Porte St. Martin (PI. R, 24; ///), in the Boul- evard St. Martin, burned down by the Communists in May, 1871, but since rebuilt. Dramas and spectacular pieces are performed here. — Avant-scenes 14; fauteulls d'orchestre 9; stalles d'or- chestre 5; stalles des troisiemes de face 2^9 fr. The&tre de la Renaissance (PI. R, 24; ///), next door to the preceding. Modern comedies. — Avant-scenes 12; fauteulls d'or- chestre 7; stalles d'orchestre 4; stalles de deuxieme galerie 2 fr. The&tre du CMtelet, Place du Chatelet (PI. R, 24; V), a very roomy edifice, specially fitted up for fairy scenes and ballet, lighted by a large reflector in the roof, which can be removed in summer for ventilation. — Fauteulls de balcon de premier rang 8 ; fauteulls d'orchestre and loges 7 ; stalles d'orchestre 5 ; pourtour 4 ; parterre 21/2; deuxieme amphitheatre II/2 fr. "The&,tre de la Gaite (PI. R, 24; III), Square des Arts et Me- tiers. It has several times changed its name and its specialty; at present spectacular pieces and operettas are given. — Avant- scenes 10; fauteulls d'orchestre 7; stalles d'orchestre 4; stalles de la seconde galerie 3 ; stalles de la troisieme galerie 21/2 and 2 fr. TheS-tre des Nouveautes (Pl.R, 21), Boulevard des Italiens28. Vaudevilles and operettas. — Avant-scenes 15 ; fauteulls d'or- chestre 8 and 7; stalles d'orchestre 5 fr. Ladies not admitted to the orchestra places. Ambigu-Comique (PL R, 24; ///), Boulevard St. Martin 2; dramas, melodramas, and 'patriotic' pieces. — Avant-scenes 10; fauteulls d'orchestre 6; fauteulls et loges de foyer 4 and 3; stalles de galerie 27-2 and 2 fr. Folies Dramatiques (PI. R, 27; III), Boulevard St. Martin, or rather Rue de Bondy 40, near the Place de la Republique. Operet- tas, etc. Seats for 1600. — Avant-scenes and loges de balcon de face 8; fauteulls d'orchestre 6; stalles de balcon 2 fr. Eden Tlie§,tre (PL R, 18; //), Rue Boudreau, for pantomimes and ballets, which are, however, about to yield to another class of representations. Among the best of the other theatres are the following : — Theatre de Cluny, Boul. St. Germain 71, near the Muse'e de Cluny, the 'Gymnase' of the left bank (seats 6 fr. to 1^4 fr.). — Chateau d'Eau, at one time the ^ Opera Populaire\ Rue de Malte 50, near the Place de la Re'publique, for popular dramas (5 fr. to 50 c). — Theatre Beaumarchais or Fantaisies Parhiennes , Bonl. 32 9. PANORAMAS. Preliminary Beaumarcliais (6 fr, to 50 c.}. — Theatre Dejazet, Boul. du Temple 47 (4 fr. to 50 c.j. — Theatre des Menus Plaisirs, Boul. de Strasbourg 14 (6 fr. to 1 fr.) ; etc. The Theatre Robert Houdin, Boulevard des Italiens 8, for con- juring of all kinds, may also be mentioned here. Admission 2 to 5 fr. Equestrian Performances, accompanied by acrobatic feats, pantomime, etc, , are exhibited at the following circuses : — Cirqne d'Ete (PI. R, 15; 77), formerly called the Cirque de I'Imperatrice, near the Rond-Point des Champs-Elysees (PI. R, 15; 77), to the right in ascending. Performances every evening from 1st May to 30th October. Seats for 3500. Admission 4 (on Wed. and Sat. 5), 3, and 1 fr. Cirque d'Hiver (PL R, 27; 777), formerly the Cirque Napoleon, Boulevard des Filles-du-Calvaire. Performances every evening, from 1st Nov. to 30th April. Premieres loges 2, deuxiemes 1, troisiemes The Hippodrome (PI. R, 12; 7), between the Avenue de I'Alma and the Avenue Marceau, is a vast circus holding 10,000 specta- tors. Equestrian, acrobatic, and pantomimic performances, races, and ballets on afternoons (Wed. and Sun.) and evenings in summer. The roof is generally removed in fine weather. Admission, 1 to 5 fr. Nouveau Cirque, Rue St. Honore' 251 (PI. R, 18 ; 77), with an arena which may be flooded at a moment's notice for aquatic spec- tacles. The floor is formed of perforated planks covered with a rough carpet ; at a given signal the carpet is rolled up, the planking descends, and water gushes in on all sides. Adm. 5, 3, and 2 fr. Cirque Fernando (PI. B , 20) , Boulevard Rochechouart 63. Admission. 3 fr. to 50 c. Panoramas have again become fashionable in Paris as at the beginning of the century, when there were three in the Passage des Panoramas alone. — Panorama of Constantinople (PI. R, 15; 77), by Jules Garnier, in the Champs-Elysees, beyond the Palais de rindustrie (p. 153); adm. 2, on Sun. 1 fr. — Panorama Marigny (PI. R, 15 ; 77). nearly opposite the first, closed at present. — Battle of Rezonville (PI. R, 12; 7), Rue de Berry 5, by Detaille and De Neuville ; adm. 2, Sun. 1 fr. — Storming of the Bastille, by Poilpot and Jacob, near the Pont d'Austerlitz (Pi. R, 25; F); adm. 1, Sun. 1/2 fr. The Musee Grevin, under the management of the well-known draughtsman of that name, Boul. Montmartre 8, adjoining the Pas- sage Jouflfroy, is a collection of wax figures; adm. 2, Sun. 1 fr. , children at half-price. Information. 10. CONCERTS AND HALLS. 33 10. Concerts, Balls, Sport, and Clubs. Concerts. The concerts oi the Conservatoire de Musique, Rue (ill Faubourg-Poissonniere 15, which enjoy a European celebrity, take place every Sunday from January to April. The highest order of classical music, by Haydn, Uiindel, Mozart, Beethoven, etc., as well as by the most celebrated French and Italian composers, is performed with exquisite taste and precision. There are also three sacred concerts given at the Conservatoire during Passion and Easter weeks. Strangers cannot easily obtain access to them, as almost all the seats are occupied by regular subscribers. Application may, however, be made at the office. Hue du Conservatoire 2, open 1-3 p.m. on the day before a concert and 1-2 p.m. on the day itself. Balcon and premieres loges 12 fr. ; stalles dorchestre, loges du rez-de-chausse'e, and secondes loges 9 fr. ; troisiemes loges and amphitheatre 5 fr. The best Church Music is heard at St. Eustache (p. 16S), the Madeleine (p. 81), St. Roch (p. 86), La Triniteij). 194), Notre Dame (p. 214), Si. Sulpice (p. 242), and Ste. Clotilde (p. 262). The Concerts Populaires , instituted in 1861 by M. Pasdeloup (d. 1887), with a view to encourage a taste for classical music, are always well attended. Good music, performed by an excellent or- (5hestra. They take place in the Cirque d'Hiver in winter every Sun- day at 2 o'clock. Parquet 5 fr. ; premieres 3 fr. ; tribunes 2 fr. ; secondes l'/2 f^. ; troisiemes 3/^ fr. The Concerts Lamoureux, established in 1881, now stand in the foremost rank. Classical music, selections from Wagner, and new pieces are given at these concerts, which also take place on Sun- days in winter (in 1887 at the Eden Theatre). Adm. 2-10 fr. Similar to the last are the Concerts du Chdtelet or Colonne, which are held in the Theatre du Cliatelet (adm. IV4-6 fr.). The compo- sitions of Berlioz are frequently performed. The Concerts des Champs-Elysees, or du Jardin de Paris, given in summer in the open air, under the trees at the back of the Palais de I'lndustrie, are attended by a somewhat mixed company. Per- formances daily from 8 to 11 p.m. Adm. 1 fr. Besides the above regular concerts, others are given occasionally at the concert-rooms of Erard, Rue du Mail 13; Pleyel. Rue Roche- chouart 22; Herz, Rue de la Victoire 38; and other places. See bills and newspaper advertisements. — Lent is the principal season for concerts in Paris. Open-air concerts are given in summer at the Jardin dWcclima- tation{jp. 158). Militarxj Bands also play frequently (4-5 or 5-6p.m.) in the gardens of the Tuileries. the Palais-Royal , and the Luxem- bourg (p. 248); the favourite is that of the Garde Republicaine (programmes in the daily papers). Cafes Chantants. The music and singing at these establish- ments and at the ^spectacles-concerts' is never of a high class, while the audience is of a very mixed character. The entertain- Baedekkk. Paris. 9th Edit. 3 34 10. CONCERTS AND liALL.S. Preliminary meuts. however, are often amusing, and sometimes consist of vaude- villes, operettas, and farces. Smoking allowed. — The following may he mentioned : Cafe des Ambassadeurs^ in the Champs-Elysees, the first on the right , before the circus is reached ; the Alcazar d'Ete, the second on the right; and the Cafe del'Horloye, on the left. In winter: the Eldorado, Boul. de Se'bastopol, near the Boul. St. Denis; opposite to it, the Scala, with a handsome saloon, un- roofed in summer; the Alcazar d'Hiver, Rue duFaubourg-Poissonni- ere 10; Grand Concert Parisien , Rue du Faubourg St. Denis 37; Eden Concert, Boul. de Sebastopol 17 ; Bataclan, Boul. Voltaire 50, a curious structure in the Chinese style. The alluring display of the words ^entree libre' outside the cafes-chantants is a ruse to at- tract the public . as each visitor is obliged to order refreshments (a ^ consommation''^ which are generally of inferior quality, at a price of 1-3 fr., according to the reputation of the place. — The Folies-Bergere, Rue Richer 32 (PI. B, 21; ///), is a very popular resort of the same category. Visitors either take seats or promenade ill the gallery, while the performances are going on on the stage. Smoking allowed. Adm. 2 fr. Balls. The public masked balls given weekly during Lent (see announcements in newspapers and placards) are among the most striking and extravagant of the peculiar institutions of Paris. These 'bals masque's' begin at midnight and last till dawn. The most im- portant are those in the Opera House (entrance for gentlemen 20, ladies 10 fr. ; ladies in masks , gentlemen in masks or evening costume). Visitors with ladies had better take a box. During the Carnival a Bal des Artistes takes place in the Grand Opera, and masked balls were held in 1887 every Sat. in winter in the Eden Theatre (gentlemen 10, ladies 5 fr.). Salles de Daxsb. The 'balls', which take place all the year round at these public dancing-rooms, may be regarded as one of the specialties of Paris. Many of these entertainments, however, have for some years past been to a great extent 'got up' for the benefit of strangers, numbers of the supposed visitors being hired as decoys by the lessee of the saloon. It need hardly be said that ladies cannot attend these balls. Since the discontinuance of the famous Jardin Mabille, the best- known of these places of amusement is the Elysee Montmartre, Boul. RochechouartSO, where balls are held on Sun.. Tues., Thurs., and Sat. (adm. 1 or 2 fr. according to the day ; see advertisements). — The dances of the Tivoli, Rue de la Douane 12-16, near the Place de la Republique, are also popular (Sun., Wed., Thurs,, and Sat. ; same charges). At the Bal Bullier , or Closerie des Lilas , in the Carrefour de rObservatoire (PI G, 19 ; p. 250), in the Quartier Latin, a famous establishment in its way. the dancing of the students and artisans with their 'etudiantes' and 'ouvrieres' is generally of a wild and Information. 11. SHUPS. 35 liacchanalian character. Hero the famous 'cancan' may he jsecn. Balls on vSat., 'soirees dansantes' on Sun., 'graudes fetes' on Thurs. ; adm. 1 fr. Masked balls during the Carnival. Horse Races (Courses) take place from February to Novem- ber , at Auteuil (p. 159); Longchamp (p. 160), where the Grand Prix, the chief French race, is decided in May ; Chantilly (p. 332) ; Vincennes (p. 206) ; La Marche (p. 298); Le Ve'sinet (p. 301 ) ; En- ghien (p. 311); Maisons-Laflitte (p. 327); St. Germain (Acheres ; p. 327); St. Ouen (p. 195). etc. — Members of the English Jockey Olub are admitted to all the privileges of tlie French Jockey Club (see below). Boating is a favourite summer-recreation of the youthful Pari- sian, the chief starting-points being Asnieres (p. 271), Argenteuil (p. 313), and Bougival (p. 301) on the Seine, and Joinville-le- Pont (p. 206) and Nogent (p. 206) on the Marne. Regattas are fre- quently held. Skating is also much practised in Paris, the favourite resort being the artificial ponds in the Bois de Boulogne. There is a Skat- ing Club^ for which one of the ponds is reserved (see p. 160). Clubs. The following are the principal clubs of Paris, to most of which strangers are admitted during their stay on the introduc- tion of a member: Jockey Club. Rue Scribe, Ibis; Cercle National Militaire, Avenue and Place de I'Opera; Union Artistique (Cercle des Mirlitons), Rue Boissy d'Anglas 5 ; Nouveau Cercle, Place de la Concorde 4; Cercle def Union, Boulevard de la Madeleine 11; Cercle Artistique Litteraire, Rue Volney 7; Cercle des Beaux-Arts et Franco- Americain, Place de I'Opera 4; Cercle du Commerce et de ^77^(/M5^r/g, Boul. Poissonnicre 14^»is; Sporting Club, Boul. des Capu- cines 8; Cercle de la Presse, Boul. des Capuciues 6; Yacht Club, Boul. des Capucines Ibis; Grand Cercle, Boul. Montmartre 16; Cercle Central, Boul. Montmartre 8; Cercle Agricole, Boul. St. Ger- main 284; Cercle de la Librairie, Boul. St. Germain 117; Alpine Club, Rue du Bac 30; Cercle des Chemins de Fer, Rue de la Micho- diere 22. Gaming is practised extensively in most of the clubs. 11. Shops and Bazaars. Shops. With the exception of the houses in the aristocratic Faubourg St. Germain, there are few buildings in Paris which have not shops on the ground-floor. The most attractive are those in the Boulevards, especially towards the W. end, in the Palais-Royal, the Rue de la Paix, Avenue de I'Ope'ra, Passage Jouffroy, Passage des Panoramas, Rue Vivienne, and Rue de Rivoli. A few of the best and most respectable of the innumerable and tempting 'magasins' of Paris are here enumerated. The prices are generally somewhat high, and not always fixed, especially when the purchaser is not thoroughly versed in French. Strangers should 3* 36 11. SHOPS. Preliminary avoid sliops in whicli 'English spoken' is announced, as the Eng- lish-spealiing shopman is almost always 'temporarily absent', and the use of English only invites an attempt to fleece the foreigner. Those shops which announce a Vente Forcee or Liquidation should also be avoided. Those are most satisfactory in which the price of each article is marked on it in plain figures. 'Articles de Voyage': Bazar du Voyage, Avenue de I'Operao. a very attractive shop ; Moynat. Avenue de lOpera 1 and Plais; Brandus, Rue de Richelieu 103 (music on hirel; Girod. Boul. Montmartre 16. Musical Instruments. Pianos: Erard, Rue du Mail 13; Pleyel- Wolff, Rue Rochechouart22 ; Herz. Rue de la Victoire 38. — Organs : CavaiUe-Coll, Avenue du Maine 5; Merklin, Rue Delambre 22. — Harmoniums: Alexandre, Rue de Richelieu 106. — Wind Instru- ments: Sax, Rue Laffltte 56. — Stringed Instruments : Gnnd ^' Bernardel, Passage Saulnier 4 ; Collin, Faubourg Poissoniere 10; Martin, Boul. St. Martin 4; Lamy, Rue Re'aumur 68. Opticians (spectacles, des lunettes ; opera-glass, une lorgnette, or des jumelles; eye-glasses, un lorgnon or hinocle'): Chevalier, Ga- lerie de Valois 158 (Palais-Royall ; Bunoust , Gal. de Valois 131; Soleil, Gal. Vivienne 21, 23; Louchet. Passage des Panoramas 44. Perfumery: Societe Hygienique, Rue de Rivoli 55 , Boul. de la Madeleine 19, and numerous branch-depots; Fiver, Boul. de Strasbourg 10, Place Vendome 28, and Rue Vivienne 29 ; Violet, Boul. des Italiens 29 ; Pinaud^- Meyer, Boul. de Strasbourg 37 ; Gelle Freres, Avenue de I'Opera 6 : Rimmel (English), Boul. des Capucines 9 ; Guerlain , Rue de la Paix 15 : Agnel , Avenue de rOpera 16, Rue du Quatre Septembre 2, Boul. des Capucines 21. Boul. Malesherbes 31 ».<: 83, and Rue Auber 9 ; Botot, Boul. des Italiens 18, and Rue St. Honore 229 ; Bully (vinaigre de toilette). Rue Mont- orgueil 67; Stephen ^' Lucca (English), Avenue de I'Op^ra 14; Luhin, Rue Ste. Anne 55. Photographers : Disderi, Boul. des Italiens 6 ; Tourtin, same boul., 8; Numa Blanc, same boul., 29; Mulnier, same boul., 25; Braun, Boul. des Capucines 3 ; Van Bosch, same boul., 35 ; Pierre- Petit, Place Cadet 31 ; Reutlinger, Boul. Montmartre 21 ; Chalot, Rue Vivienne 18; Nadar, Rue d'Anjou51; Liebert, Rue de Londres 6; Valery, same street, d^^^-, Pirou, Boul. St. Germain 5. — For sellers of photographs, see Engravings. Porcelain, see Glass. Preserved Meats, see Delicacies. Preserved Fruits: (fruits confits , chinois blonds, marrons glaces, etc.): CalUi, Rue St. Honor^ 43; Debrun, Rue Mont- 40 12. BOOKSELLERS. Preliminary martre 58; Jourdain, Rue de la Michodiere 2, and Rue St. Au- gustin 28; Seugnot, Rue du Bac 28; and at most of the ^Con- fiseurs' (p. 36). The usual price Is 5 fr. per kilogramme. Shawls , Cashmere : Compagnie des Indes , Rue de Richelieu 80, and at the Grands Magasins de Nouveautes. Silk Mercers: Louvet, Rue Yivienne 10: at the Grands Ma- gasins de Nouveautes (p. 38). Tailors : J.Dusautoy, Boul. des Capucines 8, expensive ; Renard, Boulevard des Italians 2: Blanc, same boulevard, 12; A.Dusautoy, same boul., 14; Laurent Richard, same boul. , 18; Sordelli, Avenue de rOpera 39 ; Janssens ^' Morlen, Galerie d'Orleans 33-39 (Palais- Royal) ; Van Roey, Rue du Bac 11. — For children: Vivier, Boul. des Italiens 28 ; An Petit Prodige, same boulevard, 38. — Ready- made Clothing; A la Belle Jardiniere, Rue du Pont-Neuf 2; Coutard, Boul. Montmartre4; Old England, Boul. des Capucines 12. Tobacco, see Cigars. Toy Shops: Au Nain Bleu,, Boul. des Capucines 27; Aux En- fants Sages, Pass. Jouffroy 13-17; Gillard, Gal. Vivienne and Rue des Petits-Champs 4 ; Au Paradis des Enfants, Rue de Rivoli 156, and Rue du Louvre 1 ; Magasin des Enfants, Passage de I'Opera. Travelling Requisites, see 'Articles de Voyage'. "Watchmakers: Leroy, Galerie Montpensier 13, Palais-Royal: Rodanet, Rue Yivienne 36 ; Comptoir General, Boul. Poissonniere 9. Wines and Liqueurs: Societe (Enophile, Rue Montmartre 161, near the boulevard, with several agencies ; Compagnie des Grands Vins de Bourgogne, Rue Royale 6 ; Aux Caves de la Couronne, Rue de la Paix 6, Boul. Malesherbes 44, Boul. Sebastopol 60, and Rue du Bac 86 ; Caves du Grand Hotel, Boul. des Capucines ; Roederer^- Cie., Rue Lafayette 44 ; Mo'et ^' Chandon, Place de TOpera 8; Bor- dier Fils , Avenue Montaigne 6 ; Veuve Cliquot-Ponsardin , Rue Taitbout 5 ; Bodega (Spanish wines). Rue Castiglione 1 (Hotel Con- tinental). See also Delicacies, etc. Those who desire to transmit purchases direct to their desti- nation should procure the services of a goods-agent (see p. 26). 12. Booksellers, Beading Booms, Libraries, Newspapers. Booksellers. Galignanfs Library, Rue de Rivoli 224 , an old establishment with a large assortment of English and American books . Galignanis Messenger, the well-known English paper, is published here. This daily journal (20 c), which has been in existence for 70 years , contains an excellent summary of political and com- mercial news , the latest information from England , the United States , and the whole of the Continent, and a list of the prin- cipal sights and amusements of Paris. It gives a daily list of English and American visitors in Paris, and another on Fridays of English and American visitors to the chief cities of Europe. The English and American places of worship (p. 44) are enumerated Information. 12. NEWSPAPERS. 41 every Saturday. — The AmericMn Register is an American journal of a similar kind, published every Saturday (price 30 c). — A European edition of the New York Herald, most of the contents of which are telejiraphed from New York, appears every morning (15 c.). Ollendorff, Rue de Richelieu 28l3is (jreueral agent for Baedeker's Handbooks); Truchy, Boulevard des Italiens 26 ; Nilsson, Rue de Rivoli212, English books. — Vieweg, Rue de Richelieu G7 ; C. Klinck- sieek, Rue de Lille 11 ; Ghio, Palais-Royal, Galerie d'OrleaTis 17; these chiefly for French and German literature. — Haar ^' Steinert, Rue Jacob 9, and Le Soudier, Boul. St. Germain 174, for German books. — Librairie Nouvelle (Levy), Boul. des Italiens 15; Marpon ^^ Flammarion, Boul. des Italiens 12; Arnaud<$' Lahat, Palais-Royal. Rare books: Fontaine, Passage des Panoramas 35; Morgand, same passage, 55. For the addresses of other 'libraires-e'diteurs', consult the Directory of Paris (p. 49). — The famous house of Hachette §' Cie. is in the Boul. St. Germain (No. 79). Reading Rooms. Reading-room of the New York Herald, Ave- nue de rOpera 49 (adm. 25 c. per day , 4 fr. per month) , well supplied with American, English, and French newspapers, and fre- quented by ladies. — Salon Litteraire. in the Passage de I'Ope'ra (N. side of the Boul. des Italiens), Galerie du Barometre 11 and 13, French, German, and English newspapers; adm. 30 c, per week 2fr., fortnight 31/2 fr., month 6 fr. ; open 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. — Cabinet Litteraire, Passage Jouffroy, Boul. Montmartre 12, a ren- dezvous of foreign newspaper correspondents. — On the left bank of the Seine: Rue Casimir Delavigne 10, near the Odeon ; Rue de la Sorbonne 0. These reading-rooms are convenient places for letter-writing. Materials for the purpose may also be procured at any of the cafe's. Circulating Libraries. Neal, Rue de Rivoli 248 (English books); Voreaux. Rue Chauveau-Lagarde 14 (2 fr. per week, 6 fr. per month) ; La Lecture L'niverselle, Rue des Moulins 5, etc. (15 c. per vol., 2 fr. per month, 10 fr. per annum). Newspapers. The oldest Parisian newspaper is the 'Gazette de France', which was founded in 1631. No fewer than 150 new jour- nals appeared in 1789, 140 in 1790, and 85 in 1791 , but most of these were suppressed at various times by government, Napoleon finally leaving only thirteen in existence. On the restoration of the monarchy about 150 newspapers and periodicals were published, but only eight of these concerned themselves with political matters. Since then the number has been constantly on tlie increase, and now amounts to 1540. The political papers number about 70, and are sold in the streets or at the 'kiosques' in the Boulevards (p. 69). Tlie larger papers cost 10, 15, or 20 c. , the smaller 5 c. — Gidignani's Messenger and the American Register, see above. Morning Papers. Republican : Ze Journal des Dit'Cttx (2(.) c. ; one of the best Parisian papers); Ln Ripuhlique Fraiicaixe; Le Si&cle; Le XI Xe Sih'le; V Erenemeut ; Le Volfaire; Le Bappel: L> Eh 1 1 1 "2 3 Q In 1 "^ 5 2 8,9 3 10 2 Wednesday/ 7 17 16 13 21 18 19 15 4 13 12 6 11 (continued) { 13 20 t Sunday • • Ng 18 17 19 21 20 i f — 1 9 9 Monday ■ . < '^ -,ast 1 5 day 2 4 at p 8,9 13 leas 3 12 ure 10 6 2 11 Thursday J ^ 1 16 5 15 19 4 6 20 10 13 X 12 21 8,9 17 11 18 16 15 17 ia 9A 19 9l)t r- — — — 1 2 f- 1 2 3 18 2 Fridav . . < 7 5 15 4 13 8,9 17 10 21 6 1'? 2 11 Tucaday . { ^^. 5 15 4 13 10 17 12 21 11 19 Il6 18 19 20 1 2 11 I Wednesday-j 20 3 4 1 10 2 12 8,9 6 2 11 Saturday I 3 7 16 5 15 18 2 10 19 8,9 13 20 4 12 21 6 17 Visit of a Fortnight. Beginning on — a •a 1 1 33' 1 a '3 o3 -d 1 3 CO Beginning on — CO c 1 1 2 3 H Ti, '^ 3 1 Sunday . . { ^ 5 15 2 12 8,9 13 4 16 10 6 3 11 Thursday \ 4 _ 5 12 8^ 1 10 2 6 3 11 Monday . . I 7 ' I 15 1 2 8,9 4 10 3 ■ 17 15 16 13 5 12 13 16 6 11 f- — — _ — 1 2 f — 1 2 4 10 3 Fridav . . { 3 5 4 8,9 10 6 11 Tuesday . < 7 I 16 f — 5 15 12 8,9 13 6 11 l7 lb 12 13 16 •_ 1 2 10 3 Saturday \ 3 _ 1 Wednesday-! 7 5 12 8,9 4 6 11 5 2 8,9 4 10 11 113 15 16 I 7 15 12 13 16 6 Visit of a Week .9 c Si n3 fl 3 CO 1 3 1 1 1 % u 3 J3 •s 3 1 1 en 1 3 '3 '3 2 ,d s 3 1 Sunday 11,12 i5,6 2 8,9,11 4,7 13,15 10,3 Thurs- f — day 14,7 _ 1,3 2 8,9,11 Monday{i(j-;^2 1,3 2 8,9,11 4,7 13,15 5,6 5,6 10,12 13,15 Tues- / — day \10,12 5,6 1,3 2 4,7 13,15 8,9,11 Friday |^ aTe 10,12 8,9,11 137l5 1,3 2 Wed- f - _ 1,3 4,7 2 8,9,11 Satur- f — — — _ — - 1 1,3 nesday \ 10,12 5,(3 13,15 day t '^ 5,6 10,12 8,9.11 4,7 13.151 54 DISTRIBUTION OF TIME. Table showing the Days and Hours of Admission to the principal Museums, etc., of Paris. Museums, Picture SS) 1:2 to 'CJ u 3