LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 RIVERSIDE 
 
 K. l^t
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL.
 
 PKINTED BY R. CLAY, LOKDON, 
 
 fOR 
 
 MACMILLAN & CO. CAMBRIDGE. 
 
 ILontlon: BELL AND DALDY, ISG, FLEET STREET. 
 ©Uillia: HODGES AND SMITH, 
 ffimnburgi): EDiMONSTON AND DOUGLAS. 
 
 (Slasgoln: JAMES maclehose. 
 
 ©IforB: J.H.PARKER.
 
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 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 gi |0ttn\iil 
 
 FIRST TOUR OF VISITATION 
 
 AMONG THE COLONISTS 
 
 ZULU KAFIRS OF NATAL. 
 
 BY 
 
 JOHN WILLIAM COLENSO, D.D. 
 
 LORD BISHOP OF THE DIOCESE. 
 
 M A C M I L L A N & CO. 
 
 1855.
 
 VT87S 
 C6f
 
 HISTOEICAL SKETCH 
 
 THE COLONY OF NATAL. 
 
 Natal lies upon the south-east coast of Africa, 
 in latitude 29 to 31 degrees. It derives its name, 
 Terra Natalis, from the fact of its having been 
 discovered by the Portuguese navigator, Vasco 
 di Garaa, on Christmas-day, A.D. 1497. Its 
 extent of surface is about 18,000 square miles, 
 or just one-third of that of England and Wales. 
 The country may be described, generally, as 
 rising rapidly from the coast of the Indian 
 Ocean, in four distinct steps or terraces, each 
 about twenty miles in average width, and each 
 having its own peculiarity of soil and climate. 
 Along the coast the heat is greatest, and though 
 scarcely, in the height of summer, to be called 
 "tropical," it is yet sufficient to allow of the 
 growth of cotton, sugar, coftee, pine-apples, and 
 other productions of the tropics. There is a 
 good deal of woodland and park-like scenery iu 
 this region ; but further inland, as the country 
 rises in elevatiou, the temperature is diminished,
 
 VI HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 and the air is clear and refreshing, except wnen 
 the hot wind blows from the north-west, from 
 the sun-scorched centre of Africa. The second 
 range of land is almost bare of trees, but excel- 
 lently well adapted for grazing purposes, besides 
 furnishing abundant crops of hay, oats, mealies, 
 or Indian corn, and barley. The port-town of 
 Durban, with its population of 1,100, lies in the 
 former district, and Maritzburg, the city and 
 seat of government, with a population of about 
 1,800, including the military, in the latter. 
 Beyond this the hills again rise, and we come 
 to a region in which is found plenty of forest- 
 timber of considerable size and of very superior 
 quality. And still more inland, immediately 
 under the foot of the Kahlamba, or Draaken- 
 berg Mountains, the soil is well adapted for 
 growing wheat, and other European products. 
 
 The colony is, throughout, abundantly well- 
 watered, it being scarcely possible to travel 
 four or five miles without coming to a stream 
 of some kind or other, which (as will more fully 
 appear from the Journal) are never dried up, 
 except the smaller of them, in the depth of the 
 winter season. During this season, for four or 
 five months together, there is scarcely any 
 rain; the temperature of the air at Durban is 
 delightfully cool and pleasant, but never frosty ; 
 while, more inland, at Maritzburg, there is
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. vii 
 
 hoar-frost upon tlie flowers in the morning, and 
 sometimes deep snow and severe cold, upon the 
 hills and mountain-tops beyond it, for a week 
 or ten days together. 
 
 The present population of the district may be 
 numbered at about 6,000 Europeans, of whom, 
 perhaps, 1,000 are Dutch, and from 100,000 to 
 120,000 Kafirs. The only towns are Maritz- 
 burg and Durban, distant from each other 
 rather more than fifty miles : but there are 
 several rising villages, such as Richmond, Ladi- 
 smith, York, Verulam, Weenen, Byrne, Pine- 
 town, &c. The condition of the inhabitants, 
 Christian and Heathen, at the present time, 
 will more fully appear from the Journal which 
 follows. But, to explain some of its allusions, 
 it will be necessary to give a brief account of 
 the chief points of notice in the previous history 
 of the colony — parts of which I have extracted 
 from a narrative, which I formerly wrote, of the 
 same events, for the Monthly Record of the 
 Gospel Propagation Society, as well as from an 
 Appeal, which I have more recently circulated. 
 
 About thirty years ago. Natal was almost 
 emptied of its inhabitants, owing to the con- 
 tinual ravages of the great Zulu chief, Chaka, 
 who then lived in the Zulu country, to the 
 north of our colony, and made himself a very 
 notorious name in South Africa, by devastating
 
 Vlll HISTORICAL SKETCH, 
 
 conquests abroad, and deeds of brutality and 
 bloodshed at home. Some idea of his cruelties 
 may be gathered from the following passages, 
 extracted from the Journals of Mr. Isaacs, one 
 of the earliest settlers in these parts, in the year 
 1835, and in the time of Chaka, whom he often 
 visited in his capital. On one occasion, he 
 writes : — 
 
 " While we were here, a great number of warriors 
 passed to and fro from the imperial residence, which 
 had now changed its name to Umhulalo, ' place of 
 slmghter,' from] the fact of the king having recently 
 ordered one of his regiments, with their Avives and 
 families, to be massacred for their supposed cowardice. 
 They had been defeated in battle, although they had 
 fought with great bravery, having been overpowered 
 by superior troops and greater numbers, and compelled 
 to retreat." 
 
 On another occasion, Mr. Isaacs was himself 
 present, when 170 boys and girls were ordered 
 by the monster to be butchered for some ima- 
 ginary offence. 
 
 "Nothing could equal the consternation and horror 
 of these poor miserable and devoted wretches, who, 
 surrounded and without hope of escape, knew that they 
 were collected to sate some revengeful feehng of their 
 tyrant, but knew not for what. Chaka began by taking 
 out some fine lads, and ordering their own brothers to 
 twist their necks. Their bodies were afterwards dragged 
 away, and beaten with sticks till life was extinct. After- 
 wards the other victims in the kraal were indiscrimi- 
 nately butchered. Few of the poor innocent children
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. IX 
 
 evinced any sorrow : but they walked out, as if they 
 felt that they were about to be removed from a state 
 of terror to another and a better world. There being 
 so many victims, it took the warriors a considerable 
 time to j)erform their inhuman duty. The next morn- 
 ing I was disturbed early by the cries of a man, knocked 
 down just behind my hut, and taken away to be killed. 
 At noon, two of the adopted daughters of this exe- 
 crable monster, and one of his chiefs, were dragged 
 through the kraal, and executed with similar barbarity. 
 The king, after these horrible spectacles, sjsent the 
 afternoon in dancing with his people." 
 
 During the greater part of Chaka's reign, 
 which lasted for twenty-five years, the district 
 of Natal was utterly devastated and depopulated 
 by the continual inroads of this inhuman tyrant. 
 He had armed his soldiers with a short javelin, 
 or assegai, and required them to engage with it 
 in close hand-to-hand conflict with the enemy, 
 denouncing death to any who should leave their 
 weapon behind on the battle-field; instead of 
 allowing them to fling their long spears from 
 a distance, and then shelter themselves behind 
 a rock or a tree, as is the practice of the British 
 Kafirs on the frontier of the Cape Colony. 
 
 By this means he had made them dreaded by 
 all around them, and had brought the whole 
 country under his power, for 500 miles in every 
 direction from his own central residence; and 
 the name of his own petty tribe, the Zulus, 
 who never, probably, numbered more than
 
 X HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 about 5,000 people, became thus extended to all 
 who, at any time, had come under the sway, or 
 even suffered from the ravages, of this South 
 African Attila. On one occasion, having made 
 many inquiries of Mr. Isaacs as to the power 
 of the British Government at Capetown, Chaka 
 ended the conversation with observing, that " He 
 now saw there were two great chiefs, and only 
 two, in the world — his brother. King George, 
 who was King of all the Whites, and himself, 
 who was King of all the Blacks." 
 
 In this state of desolation was the country of 
 Natal, when Chaka gave it away to Mr. Isaacs 
 and his party, who appears to have abstained 
 from committing any further acts of violence in 
 this territory, during the short remainder of his 
 life. He passed through it, however, in the 
 year 1828, when he made a fierce invasion of 
 the Amampondo country, in Kafraria Proper. 
 The utmost alarm was excited among the British 
 and Dutch settlers on the frontier. The whole 
 burgher force was hastily called out, tvoop'^^ were 
 collected, and an advance was made to repel the 
 further approach of this dreaded and di.ngerous 
 enemy. Unhappily, this British force fell in 
 with an unfortunate and innocent tribe, who 
 were actually flying from the fear of Chaka; 
 and, mistaking them for the Zulu army, before 
 the error was discovered, attacked them with
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. XI 
 
 great fury, and utterly destroyed them. It is 
 probable that Chaka heard nothing of this 
 affair. Having completed his own business, he 
 retired to Natal, and was there murdered, near 
 the Umvoti River, by his brother, Umslangaan, 
 and his party ; and these again were all killed, 
 a few days afterwards, by another brother, 
 Dingaan, who thus became the second great 
 chief of the Zulus. The memory of Chaka, 
 however, is still venerated among the tribes of 
 Natal, like that of Napoleon in France. His 
 grave, I was told, was somewhere in the district 
 — the secret of it being closely kept by the few 
 who are privy to it. But I was assured, that if 
 it were known to be disturbed, there would be 
 a general commotion among the natives of the 
 district, and, very possibly, a ^dolent outbreak. 
 
 In the year 1835, the town of Durban was 
 founded, the number of British residents having 
 by this time considerably increased. Already 
 the subjects of Dingaan had begun to make 
 their escape from his power, and to take refuge 
 within the reach, and under the protection, of 
 Englishmen. But, shortly before the event just 
 mentioned, a treaty had been made with the 
 chief, by which, while securing full pardon for 
 all who had deserted from him, the English 
 bound themselves to seize and surrender into 
 his hands all future refugees, though certain to
 
 XU HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 be doomed to a horrible death ! — certain, in 
 point of fact^ as the chief agent, on the part of 
 the settlers, in making this treaty, writes, " to 
 be knocked on the head with knob-kirries and 
 impaled \" 
 
 A most painful instance occurred, just after 
 the treaty had been signed — before it had 
 reached the colony, and before it could possibly 
 have been notified to any of Dingaan's subjects. 
 A female chieftain, a male and female servant, 
 and three children of the latter, made their 
 escape, and joined their friends, who were al- 
 ready settled in the colony — happy in the idea 
 of their security under British protection. Alas ! 
 the elders of the party were seized at once, and 
 taken back by the agent himself. All his inter- 
 cessions on their behalf were in vain. They 
 Avere first doomed to be starved to death; and he 
 left them undergoing this punishment, though 
 it was afterwards exchanged for a more violent 
 death. But he left them only to complete the 
 dastardly surrender. The tyrant required the 
 children also, and they too were sent ! The 
 Headman of the little village, where they had 
 taken refuge, was their relation : — but we will 
 give the words of the agent himself, in this part 
 of his narrative : — 
 
 "Casting away his assegai, he threw himself upon 
 the ground, and only imjiilored that he might be bound
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. XIU 
 
 and sent to Dingaan in their stead. This, of course, 
 
 could not be The men, who took them back, 
 
 promised to be kind to them by the way, and on no 
 account to mention the fate which probably awaited them. 
 My heart sickens at the thought of such barbarities ; 
 still it is a duty we owe to the 2,000 natives now 
 residing here, and who, together with ourselves, would 
 all, on some night, have probably been immolated, 
 but for the security of the present treaty." 
 
 It appears, however, that there was a point, 
 at which this claim of "duty^' was considered 
 to have had its Hmits, and the rights of hu- 
 manity to begin. For again he writes : — 
 
 " On their leaving this morning, I sent, on my own 
 responsibility, the following message to Dingaan, well 
 knowing that it woidd express the sentiments of every 
 European in Natal : ' If deserters must be killed, let 
 them be killed at once ; but, if they are to be starved 
 to death, we are resolved that not another inditidual shall 
 be sent back !^ " 
 
 Altogether, it would be difficult to point to a 
 more humiliating page in our colonial history. 
 
 In August, 1837, the Rev. F. Owen, with his 
 wife and sister, landed at Port Natal, as the first 
 Missionaries of the Church of England to the 
 Zulu Kafirs. They had been despatched by the 
 Church Missionary Society, upon the earnest 
 recommendations of the late Capt. Allen Gar- 
 diner, who had himself, in the previous year, 
 made several visits to Dingaan, and had ob- 
 tained his consent to allow of the residence of 
 Christian Teachers among his people. At this
 
 XIV HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 time, as has been said, the district of Natal was 
 almost uninhabited, except by a small body of 
 English and Dutch traders, who were settled in 
 the neighbourhood of Durban. 
 
 Shortly after his arrival, Mr. Owen pro- 
 ceeded northward, a distance of five days' 
 journey, to the residence of Dingaan, and ob- 
 tained leave to fix his Station near the capital 
 town of Umkunginghlovu. On Oct. 10, the 
 Mission work was commenced, and was con- 
 tinued for four months, under very trying cir- 
 cumstances, and amidst many painful scenes of 
 cruelty and blood. But on Feb. 6, 1838, a 
 dreadful event took place, which at once broke 
 up the Mission. This was the murder of the 
 Dutch Boers, who, to the number of seventy, 
 besides many of their children and Hottentot 
 servants, were savagely butchered in cold blood 
 by the orders of the king. 
 
 These ill-fated men formed part of a large 
 body of emigrant Dutch farmers, who, for 
 various reasons, becoming discontented with 
 English government, had voluntarily forsaken 
 their homes in the colony, and trekked in their 
 wagons, with their wives and children, to find 
 a new abode, in the vast expanse of South 
 Africa, beyond the reach of British authority. 
 Part of these emigrants settled in what is now 
 called the Sovereignty, where many of them
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. XV 
 
 still remain. Others travelled on further to the 
 north-east, towards Delagoa Bay ; and very 
 many of these perished, either by the violence 
 of the savage races with which they came in 
 contact, or by the effects of the deadly climate 
 of those parts. But a large body, with 1,000 
 wagons, in several successive divisions, crossed 
 over the Kahlamba or Draakeuberg Mountains, 
 and entered upon the fertile, but unoccupied, 
 district of Natal. Among the chief leaders of 
 this party were Pieter Retief and Gert Maritz, 
 portions of whose names are together retained 
 in that of the town, which was afterwards 
 founded by their companions, Pieter-Maritz- 
 burg. 
 
 These Boers had already sent a small party 
 of explorers before them, who had come down 
 into the Natal district ; and, after inspecting it, 
 had returned with so favourable an account of 
 its capabilities, that the whole body had de- 
 termmed to proceed thither, and make it their 
 future home. As a first step, wishing to con- 
 duct things in an amicable way, they applied to 
 Diugaan for a grant of the country, professing 
 all manner of friendship towards him. The 
 chief had just lost a very large quantity of 
 cattle, which had been plundered from him by 
 some unknown depredators. He first accused 
 the Dutch party of having taken them, and
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 when assured tliat this was not the case, and 
 that they had been captured by a neighbouring 
 hostile chief, he challenged them to prove the 
 sincerity of their professions, by recovering the 
 booty for him, in return for which he promised 
 to make a grant of the territory they desired. 
 They did this accordingly, — attacked and over- 
 powered the enemy, and brought back the 
 cattle, to the number of some thousands. Din- 
 gaan now invited them to visit him at his 
 principal kraal. And, wishing to present the 
 most imposing appearance before the eyes of 
 the savage, they chose for this purpose about 
 sixty of their number, selecting the finest of 
 their warriors, with Retief himself at their 
 head, and sent them, with many of their sons 
 and servants — more than a hundred persons in 
 all — to pay this visit of ceremony. 
 
 For three days they were entertained by the 
 chief in the most amicable manner, the chief 
 exhibiting his soldiers before them, and they 
 manoeuvring after their fashion in return. On 
 the third day he invited them to enter his kraal 
 once more, and take their farewell of him, 
 when he would finally make over possession of 
 the district to them. Utterly unsuspicious of 
 any evil, they came at his request, and, incau- 
 tiously, left their arms and their horses in 
 charge of their servants outside, while they
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. XVII 
 
 proceeded within the enclosure, from which 
 they were never again to go out with hope of 
 life. The king received them, in his usual 
 friendly manner, standing in the centre of his 
 kraal, and surrounded by his warriors in a 
 circle. Then he seated himself on the ground 
 with them, and for about ten minutes main- 
 tained a pleasant conversation. But, suddenly 
 springing upon his feet, he fehouted to his men, 
 Bamba-ni amaTagati — " Seize the wizards, or 
 miscreants;" and immediately from all sides 
 the Zulu soldiers rushed in upon the defence- 
 less Dutchmen, and dragged them off to the 
 neighbouring Golgotha, the " place of sculls," 
 where the executions of the tribe took place. 
 The Boers, their sons, and servants, were all 
 massacred, being knocked upon the head with 
 knob-kirries. One only of the whole party 
 escaped, to carry tidings of the horrible event 
 to their Dutch friends. Mr. Owen, however, 
 was providentially not present. The conference 
 with the chief was fixed to take place imme- 
 diately after breakfast, and, as a matter of 
 course, he would have attended on the occa- 
 sion, but that he had a practice of reading and 
 meditating on a portion of the Scriptures at that 
 very hour, and was unwilling to break through 
 it. For a moment he hesitated, but decided 
 to adhere to his rule ; and this decision, under 
 h
 
 XVIU HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 God, saved his life. For in the general mas- 
 sacre an Englishman was killed, who was a 
 special favourite with the chief, but who fell 
 a victim to the indiscriminating fury of his 
 soldiers. And, doubtless, Mr. Owen would 
 have shared his fate. 
 
 But I may here give Mr. Owen's own words : 
 
 "Feb. 6, 1838. A dreadful day in the annals of the 
 Mission! I shudder to give an account of it. This 
 morning, as I was sitting in the shade of my wagon, 
 reading the New Testament, the usual messenger came 
 from the king, with hurry and anxiety depicted in his 
 looks. I was sure that he was about to pronounce 
 something serious. And what was his commission ? 
 While it showed consideration and kindness in the 
 Zulu monarch towards me, it disclosed a horrid instance 
 of perfidy — too horrid to be described — towards the 
 unhapi^y men, who have for these few days been his 
 guests, but are now no more. He sent to tell me ' not 
 to be /lightened, as he was going to kill the Boers.' The 
 news came like a thunderstroke to myself, and every 
 member of my family, as they successively heard it. . . . 
 Nearly opposite to my hut, and on the other side of my 
 wagon, which hides it from my view, stood the blood- 
 stained hill, where all the executions at this fearful spot 
 take place, and which was now destined to add so many 
 more bleeding carcases to the number of those, which 
 have already cried to heaven for vengeance. 'There,' 
 said some one, ' they are killing the Boers now ! ' I 
 turned my eyes, and behold ! an immense multitude on 
 the hill ! About nine or ten Zulus to each Boer were 
 dragging their helpless unarmed victim to the fatal 
 spot, where those eyes, which awaked this morning to 
 see the cheerful light of day for the last time, are 
 now closed in death. Two of the Boers paid me a visit
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. XIX 
 
 this morning, and breakfasted, only an hour or two 
 before they were called into eternity. When I asked 
 them what they thought of Dingaan, they said that 
 'he was good' — so unsuspicious were they of his in- 
 tentions." 
 
 At the first sight of these horrors, (as I have 
 heard from the lips of one of them,) the Mis- 
 sionaries' hearts were paralysed with dread, and 
 tliey sat down upon the ground in utter dis- 
 tress and despair. But presently they arose 
 to the true spirit of Christians, drew forth the 
 Book of God, and read in it the comforting 
 words of the 91st Psalm. With these words 
 their minds were stilled and strengthened ; and 
 they were able to commit themselves to the 
 keeping of that Great Master, who had hitherto 
 brought them safely through so many difl&- 
 culties and dangers, — who still could, and, if 
 He saw it good, assuredly would deliver them, 
 out, as it were, from the very jaws of death. 
 Before long, Mr. Owen was sent for, and for 
 three hours of most painful suspense was kept 
 in conference with the tyrant, and parted from 
 his trembling wife and sister, who knew not 
 what fate might have already befallen him, or 
 what might soon be their own. But, at length, 
 he returned to say, that " they were at liberty to 
 go, and they might take one wagon with them, 
 but must leave the rest of their effects behind." 
 Accordingly, they travelled down to the coast 
 h 2
 
 XX HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 at Durban; and then, after many hardships 
 and anxieties, and after having been obliged to 
 take shelter for some time with other Euro- 
 peans, principally women and children, in an 
 uninhabited island in the Bay, they were at 
 length enabled to embark on board the Comet, 
 a small vessel, which was bound for Delagoa 
 Bay, but had been driven in by stress of weather 
 to Port Natal. And so the Missionaries left 
 this ill-fated land, which they had hoped to see 
 brightened ere long with the rays of the Sun 
 of Righteousness, to lie still shrouded in the 
 darkness of heathenism. 
 
 Meanwhile, ten regiments of the king^s sol- 
 diers had been sent forth, immediately after 
 that horrible massacre, to attack the emigrant 
 farmers, who were spread over the district in 
 perfect security, awaiting the return of their 
 friends. At break of day, the Zulu forces fell 
 upon the party of Betief, encamped near to the 
 present township of Weenen [loeeping], which 
 derives its name from the sad events of that 
 day. The prime warriors of this camp having 
 been already slain, those who remained behind 
 were easily surprised and overpowered. Men, 
 women, and children, were surrounded, and 
 mercilessly butchered. Other det?icliments of 
 Zulus surprised, in other places, similar small 
 parties ; until, at length, the alarm was spread^
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. XXI 
 
 and the farmers were able to collect hurriedly 
 into larger bodies^ and form laagers, or encamp- 
 ments, for the defence of themselves and their 
 families. The Zulus were repelled by the well- 
 directed firing from each of these laagers : but 
 they still pressed on — till, at last, they were 
 driven back, after a whole day's furious engage- 
 ment with a strong party of Boers, who met 
 them in the open field. The scenes lefb behind 
 by the retreating host were horrible beyond 
 description. At all the stations, which had 
 been first attacked, lay heaps of mangled 
 corpses, to the number of several hundreds. 
 Among them were the bodies of two young 
 girls, pierced, one with nineteen, and the other 
 with twenty-one, stabs of the assegai; but 
 they were not quite dead, and, being carefully 
 tended, were restored so far as to be alive in 
 the colony (it is believed) to this day — one of 
 them a Avife and mother, though both cripples. 
 
 Two desperate efi'orts were made to avenge 
 upon the Zulu king the death of E-etief and his 
 party. A Dutch commando of 300 fighting 
 men, under Pieter Uys, marched up into his 
 country, and boldly attacked his formidable 
 forces; but they were obliged to retire with 
 considerable loss, leaving their leader dead be- 
 hind them, A still more terrible disaster befel 
 the other expedition, which consisted of white
 
 XXU HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 men of Port Natal — mostly Englisli settlers — 
 with an auxiliary force of Natal natives. Almost 
 every European of this party was killed, and 
 multitudes of the natives; while the furious 
 troops of Diugaan now ranged freely over the 
 country, and had their fill of carnage and blood. 
 However, the emigrants were more successful 
 in their subsequent determined efforts to avenge 
 the death of their friends. Dingaan's army was 
 routed, and his capital, Umkunginghlovu, taken 
 and destroyed; and at length, in 1840, they 
 agreed to support his brother. Panda, in rebel- 
 lion against him. Panda had come to them, 
 representing that his life was endangered by 
 the tyi'ant's suspicions, and that he could bring 
 with him a great body of adherents, if they 
 would espouse his cause. A desperate conflict 
 ensued, in which Dingaan was utterly routed, 
 and perished among a neighbouring tribe, with 
 whom he took refuge. Panda was made king 
 of the Zulus, and so he continues to this day ; 
 while he gave, in return, to the Dutch Boers 
 possession of the much-coveted district of Natal. 
 The Dutch held it for two or three years as an 
 independent state, and then began to interfere, 
 it was thought injuriously, with the tribes to 
 the south, with whom the Cape Government 
 had made an alliance. A remonstrance was 
 sent, but it met with no attention. A small
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. XXlll 
 
 military force, which was despatched from the 
 Cape to enforce it, Avas overpowered, and very 
 straitly besieged in a small fort at Durban. But 
 a larger force was more successful ; and at length 
 the Dutch were induced to surrender the colony 
 into the hands of the English, who claimed it 
 by virtue of the original cession of the Cape 
 of Good Hope Settlements, among which Natal 
 was reckoned from very early times. 
 
 Some of these Dutch Boers decided to re- 
 main under English rule. Others took titles 
 for farms of the British Government, but 
 have only very recently taken possession of 
 them. The great body of them determined to 
 trek once more over the Draakenberg, and set 
 up again their independence. But as they 
 endeavoured to persuade their friend, Panda, to 
 attack the English in Natal, Sir Harry Smith 
 was sent against them, and, after a stubborn 
 fight, defeated them at the battle of Boom 
 Plaats. Those who submitted to his arms were 
 allowed to remain upon their new possessions, 
 and to govern themselves very much by their 
 own laws, on condition of recognising the 
 sovereignty of Queen Victoria : and hence the 
 whole central district of South Africa, between 
 the two branches of the Orange River, the Nu 
 Gariep and Ky Gariep, (of which the former 
 is more properly called the Oranrje, and the
 
 XXIV HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 latter^ the Vacd River^) acquired the name of 
 the " Sovereignty beyond the Orange River." 
 
 A very large portion, however, of the de- 
 feated Dutch Boers, under their chief, Pretorius, 
 migrated still further to the north beyond the 
 Vaal River, and at length succeeded in forming 
 a republic for themselves, beyond the reach 
 of British interference. Here they number, 
 at present, about 25,000, who are scattered 
 all over the country on separate farms, except 
 that some 400 or 500 are congregated at the 
 chief town of Potschefstrom, which stands at 
 the confluence of the Mooi and Vaal Rivers. 
 The former of these is said to be a magnificent 
 stream, one of the finest in all South Africa, 
 pouring itself out, all at once, in a full body 
 of the clearest and most delicious water, from 
 the foot of a barren hill, as if it were con- 
 nected with some subterranean river. In some 
 places it is twenty feet in width, and four feet 
 deep ; in others the width is contracted to eight 
 feet : but the body of water appears to be always 
 the same. There is another smaller village, 
 named Rustenburg, at the foot of the Magalies- 
 berg range of mountains ; and this may contain, 
 perhaps, 150 people. And, eight days' journey to 
 the N.E. of this, there are some fifty families set- 
 tled under the Zoutspansberg. Here, however, 
 they are on the border of the sickly, fever-
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. XXV 
 
 stricken country, about Delagoa Bay ; and, 
 sometimes, a billow, as it were, of poisoned 
 air swells over the range of lulls, and spreads 
 death among the farms at their foot. 
 
 The Sovereignty is at present inhabited 
 by a very considerable body of about 80,000 
 Kafirs, as well as some 20,000 of English and 
 Dutch farmers : and here it was, at a place 
 called Berea, that a desperate battle took place 
 in the year 1852 between the forces under Sir 
 George Cathcart and the great Basuto chief, 
 Moshesh, who has 60,000 people under his rule. 
 Since that event, and by the advice of Sir 
 George Cathcart, the Sovereignty has been 
 abandoned by the orders of the Duke of New- 
 castle, not, however, without the strongest re- 
 monstrances from its English inhabitants. 
 
 After the subjugation of the Dutch in 1845, 
 Natal was formally recognised as a British 
 colony, and very soon a considerable emigra- 
 tion took place to it from England, — con- 
 ducted, however, for the most part, by specula- 
 tors, the failure of whose plans, through want 
 of proper forethought and preparation, occa- 
 sioned for several years the greatest distress to 
 very many of the new settlers. The result was 
 a reaction, from which the colony is only now 
 just recovering. Latterly, moreover, the white 
 population has been considerably diminished
 
 XXVI HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 by emigration to the gold-fields of Australia. 
 But this movement is now checked ; and some 
 of these are said to have already returned, 
 somewhat " sadder and wiser men/^ to seek 
 their old homes in the colony. 
 
 But, while the European population has till 
 lately diminished, the native inhabitants have 
 vastly increased in number, and are still in- 
 creasing, by continual accession of fresh refu- 
 gees from the surrounding districts, seeking 
 relief for themselves and their families, under 
 the quiet sway and sure defence of England, 
 either from the miseries entailed by inter- 
 tribal wars and animosities, or from the cruel 
 oppressions of their own native chiefs. This 
 movement began as soon as the Dutch got 
 possession of Natal, and has ever since con- 
 tinued; so that the Queen of England now 
 reckons among her subjects, within the district 
 of Natal, as has been mentioned, from 100,000 
 to 120,000 Kafirs, who look up to her with 
 affection and reverence as their protector and 
 friend. At least, they did so a short while ago, 
 and greatly loved and venerated the English 
 Government. When the Bishop of Capetown 
 was in Natal, now nearly five years ago, they 
 were, he writes, " humble, docile, submissive. 
 I believe that at that time almost anything 
 might have been done with them.-'^
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. XXVll 
 
 " But I tremble," he adds, "to think of what is sure 
 to result from the state of things which is allowed to 
 grow up in Natal. What will be the consequences of 
 mixing up an English population, unprovided themselves 
 with the means of grace, with masses of heathens and 
 savages, for whose real improvement httle, or rather 
 nothing, is done ? I have no doubt what the conse- 
 quences will be. Already the natives are becoming 
 educated, in a certain sense, by dwelling among those, 
 many of whom are practically living in worse than 
 heathenism. Three years ago I saw the finger of a Zulu 
 pointed with scorn at a drunken Enghshman in the 
 streets of Durban. Shall three years of perfect inac- 
 tivity have passed away, and the character of the native 
 population not have suffered already a grievous deterio- 
 ration ? And the steps by which, in the providence of 
 God, this guilty neglect of our Church and Country will, 
 if not immediately remedied, be surely visited in judg- 
 ment upon us, are too plain to be mistaken. We hailed 
 the arrival of the Zulu refugees, as a protection for our 
 frontier from the ravages of their chief. We might reap 
 infinite advantage from their labours in the cultivation 
 of our lands, and the growth of our colonial products, 
 if only they were reclaimed from the indolence of bar- 
 barism — if only they were Christianized and civiUzed. 
 But if we do not do our duty towards them in this 
 respect, and do it speedily, the course of events is plain. 
 First, there will be acts of injustice on the part of the 
 civilized against the micivilized. Then there will follow 
 an almost total loss of respect and reverence for the 
 white man. Then will come irritation, resistance, and, 
 ultimately, rebellion and war. I see such a state of 
 things gradually coming on. Already the shadow of a 
 cloud has passed over this promising scene. Already 
 once, during the late war, have the Zulu chiefs com- 
 bined to offer a passive resistance to our authority, 
 when they were ordered to lead their forces out, to join
 
 SXVUl HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 arms witli ours against tlie British Kafirs. Happy was 
 it for us, perhaps, that they dechned to do so — that 
 they were not suffered to feel their whole power. But 
 that occasion was so alarming, that the Europeans of 
 the colony went into encampments, and stood on their 
 defence. Another five years of neglect, similar to the 
 past five years of unconcern, will assuredly, as I believe, 
 bring do\vn upon us a most deserved judgment, and we 
 shall find ourselves burthened with the expense and 
 misery of a Zulu as well as a Kafir war ! " 
 
 Nor is this all that must be said upon this 
 question. For, though we have not taken their 
 land, we have taken and do take their money, 
 and that to a large amount, by direct taxation. 
 For the last four years, a tax of 7s. annually has 
 been laid on every hut, and the sum thus raised 
 from the Zulu people amounts to little short of 
 10,000/. a-year. Thus they are not merely 
 refugees, whom we have pitied and relieved, 
 without giving them thereby a right to found 
 a further claim upon us. But we have recog- 
 nised them, in the most distinct and practical 
 manner, as " our own." This hut-tax was first 
 sanctioned by Earl Grey in 1848, expressly on 
 the ground that, besides providing for the ne- 
 cessary additional expenses of Government on 
 their account, it would *• afford a revenue for 
 most important purposes, such as the esta- 
 blishment of schools and other institutions for 
 the benefit of the natives ; " and the duty, of 
 thus employing some considerable portion of
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. SXIX 
 
 the amount thus raised, has been repeatedly- 
 urged upon the Natal Government, by the suc- 
 cessive Secretaries of State for the Colonies, 
 Sir J. Pakington and the Duke of Newcastle. 
 Nothing, however, has yet been done in this 
 direction, except that, I believe, a petty grant 
 has been made of 50/. a-year for the support 
 of a Wesleyan Kafir school in Maritzburg. The 
 rest has been wholly expended upon " magis- 
 trates, roads, bridges, and public works." 
 
 And what is the result of this neglect? I 
 believe, with the Bishop of Capetown, that 
 the state of the colony is at this time most 
 critical ; and that the waste of a few months, 
 in beginning our work among them, may be 
 attended with consequences deeply to be de- 
 plored. Ten years and more we have wasted 
 already. We have allowed these tribes to mul- 
 tiply around us, without taking any measures, 
 in return for the sums we have drawn from 
 them, to improve their condition, to raise them 
 out of their degraded state of barbarous hea- 
 thenism to the dignity of civilized and Christian 
 men. And, meanwhile, a change has been 
 passing over them. They have learned to 
 measure their own strength with ours. They 
 know that they number 100,000 heathens to 
 6,000 Europeans. Their old men have for- 
 gotten the days of Chaka and Dingaan ; their
 
 XXX HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 young men have never known them. Can we 
 wonder that they are beginning to resent the 
 interference of the British Government with 
 their affairs — to complain of the hut-tax — to 
 dishke the white magistrates — to ignore the 
 debt of gratitude they are supposed to owe to 
 us — to prefer, in short, their own wild liberty 
 to the yoke which their English rulers would 
 fasten upon them ? Is there anything so strange 
 in this ? We have left them to live all along as 
 savages. Can we wonder that they cherish still 
 the thoughts and feelings of savages ? 
 
 And have we no reason to dread from past 
 experience, in the righteous retribution of 
 Almighty God, the just consequences of our 
 national neglect, if any longer continued ? The 
 immense expenditure of public treasure in the 
 last two Kafir wars, which is reckoned at three 
 millions of money, — more than enough to have 
 maintained the whole Missionary work of Natal 
 for a thousand years, — besides the cruel sacri- 
 fice of the lives of so many gallant soldiers, 
 must surely appear, to every reflecting mind, 
 the direct and natural punishment of our own 
 most criminal neglect, as a Church and nation, 
 of our subjects, the Frontier Kafirs. Must we 
 not fear ere long a like result, by the just judg- 
 ment of our Great King, upon our like criminal 
 ..neglect of their brethren, the Zulu Kafirs ?
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. XXXI 
 
 Happily, the present moment is full of en- 
 couragement. By tlie appointment of his 
 Excellency Sir George Grey to the govern- 
 ment of the Cape, (the influence of which 
 extends to its dependency, Natal,) the provi- 
 dence of God has granted us one, who, we trust, 
 will be enabled to carry out in South Africa 
 those admirable plans for the pacification and 
 improvement of the native races, which have 
 been crowned with success in New Zealand, and 
 who also brings with him to the work amongst 
 us the benefit of that experience, and the pres- 
 tige and stimulus of that success. The strong 
 measures of our late Governors, Sir Harry 
 Smith and Sir George Cathcart, have indeed, 
 for the present, checked the tide of passion, 
 which was spreading desolation over the land. 
 But the waters cannot always be repressed in 
 this way. Pent up within the bosom of the 
 race, they will either stagnate in sullen hatred, 
 or burst forth again ere long in another terrible 
 outbreak. May it be the happy lot of our new 
 Governor, — in Africa, as before in New Zealand, 
 — to aid the efi'orts of Christian teachers, while 
 publishing the Name of God and the wonders 
 of His Love among them, and to direct the 
 energies of this spirited and intelligent people 
 into the channels of peaceful industry !
 
 The account, on page xxiv, of the present state of the Dutch 
 Repuhlic beyond the Vaal River, has been obtained from 
 an eye-witness, and is more correct than that which is 
 given in the Journal itself.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 On Thursday evening, Dec. 15, 1853, I sailed from 
 Plymouth, in company with the Bishop of CapetoAvn 
 and Mrs. Gray, in the G. S. S. S. Calcutta, Captain 
 Goodall, for the Cape. 
 
 My reason for leaving England so soon after the 
 Consecration, which took place on Nov. 30, was, that 
 I might personally inspect the state of things in 
 Natal, and form a correct estimate of the measures 
 which were needed, for conducting efficiently the 
 Missions of the Church in that sadly neglected 
 colony. It was now fovir years, and more, since the 
 Bishop of Capetown had visited it ; but without 
 being able, for want of funds, to do anything towards 
 supplying the grievous spiritual needs of the district, 
 where there was not at that time (nor is at the 
 present) a single church, chapel, or school, erected 
 for the use of the members of the Church of England, 
 nor a single Church Missionary, (and very few of any 
 denomination of Christians,) to publish the word of 
 God among the vast body of natives inhabiting the 
 land. And, in the interval, important changes had 
 taken place, I was well aware, in the condition and 
 B
 
 2 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 character of the native population, of which I have 
 spoken more fully in the Appeal, which is appended 
 to this Journal. I could get no certain information 
 on the subject from any one in England ; and felt 
 that it was necessary that I should see with my own 
 eyes and hear with my own ears, if I would realize 
 the actual condition of the country, and form prudent 
 and comprehensive plans for our future operations. 
 My intention, therefore, was to visit rapidly the dif- 
 ferent parts of the district, and make acquaintance 
 with the inhabitants, of all classes. Christian and Hea- 
 then, whether resident in European towns, villages, 
 or farm-houses, or collected in Kafir kraals ; and as 
 the country in extent is only 18,000 square miles, 
 (about a third of that of England and Wales,) I had 
 calculated that, with God's blessing, the whole might 
 be done effectually within three months Thus, allow- 
 ing six weeks for the voyage each way, I might hope 
 to return to England before the end of June 1854, in 
 order to collect the funds and engage the labourers, of 
 different classes, who might be needed for the work. 
 We had a speedy and pleasant voyage of only 
 thirty-five days and a half, and dropped anchor in 
 Table Bay early on Friday morning, Jan. 20, 1 854. 
 And here I cannot help bearing my testimony to 
 the kindness and ability of the excellent Captain 
 Goodall, who, on his return from India, was pro- 
 moted to the command of the Prince, Screw-steamer, 
 and was lost in her in the dreadful storm in the Black 
 Sea; and upon whose character, as an officer, some 
 very harsh and unjust remarks were recently made
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 3 
 
 in the House of Lords. Throughout the whole voy- 
 age, we were particularly struck with his extreme 
 carefulness and skill in navigating his vessel, as well 
 as with his courteous attention to the wants of his 
 passengers. And the manner, in which he welcomed, 
 and, by his own regular and devout attendance, 
 seemed to appreciate, the proposal, for having daily. 
 Morning and Evening Prayers on board, gives just 
 ground for believing that, though so suddenly re- 
 moved, he died, as he had lived, a Christian. 
 
 My great object now was to get on, as soon as 
 possible, to Port Natal : but there was every prospect 
 of a considerable delay before I could leave Cape- 
 town. The small coasting steamer. Sir R. Peel, 
 which for some time past had been employed in 
 carrying the mail-bags and passengers between the 
 two ports, had, long before my arrival, as I found, 
 completely broken down, and was now lying in Table 
 Bay, with a very distant prospect (if any) of being 
 ever fitted to resume her duties. The Natal, which 
 had left England about a month before the Calcutta, 
 and was intended to take the place of the Peel, had 
 not yet arrived, and, as it afterwards appeared, had 
 been dismasted in a gale, and put into Lisbon for 
 repairs. My only hope, therefore, of proceeding to 
 my destination, was by a sailing vessel, which would 
 probably be chartered for the conveyance of the 
 mails, should the Natal be much longer delayed ; 
 but whose passage along the coast, owing to the 
 strong current, which is always running downwards 
 from Natal along the shores of Kafirland, at the rate 
 b2
 
 4 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 
 
 of three or four miles an hour, would most likely be 
 slow and tedious. 
 
 As the Calcutta, however, had an'ived in Table 
 Bay some days before her time, it was eventually 
 decided that she should take on the mails ; and I was 
 glad to obtain a passage in her for myself, at the 
 risk of being landed with difficulty, should the surf 
 be running high upon the bar of Durban, or even 
 of being carried on to the Mauritius, should we find 
 the bar impassable at the time we arrived, as it 
 would be impossible for the steamer to remain any 
 while at anchor off the coast. In prospect of the 
 latter event, which would have required me to return 
 again from Mauritius to Capetown, before I could 
 proceed to Natal, and so would have consumed, per- 
 haps, two months or more of time, I could only 
 console myself with the hope of being able to dis- 
 charge some episcopal functions, in an island which 
 stood very greatly in need of a Bishop of its own. 
 But the possibility of such an addition to the length 
 of the voyage, and the fact that the Natal (though 
 two months elapsed before she really arrived) was at 
 this time hourly expected at the Cape, were sufficient 
 to decide me to leave the rest of my party behind 
 at Bishopscourt, under the hospitable roof of the 
 Bishop of Capetown. 
 
 It pleased God, however, to grant us a prosperous 
 voyage, though rather a long one, owing to the 
 strength of the aforesaid current, which on one day 
 carried us backwards about 100 miles; and, in con- 
 sequence, though we had been steaming with might
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 5 
 
 and main, yet, having the wind strong from the 
 north-east, and almost in our teeth, we found our- 
 selves at noon that day near the mouth of the Great 
 Kei River, and with a remarkable clump of trees 
 upon the heights just abreast of us, which we had 
 noticed at noon of the day before, about twenty miles 
 ahead. However, we managed to advance, after this 
 discovery, by making tacks to and from the land, 
 approaching near, and then very near, to it — so near 
 that we once plainly descried three natives upon the 
 beach, admiring, no doubt, our stately vessel. On Sun- 
 day morning, Jan. 29, we were off the mouth of the 
 Umzimvubu, or St. John's River, (having left Table 
 Bay on the Monday evening previous ;) and here the 
 line of coast was very beautiful, and drew from us 
 all, Indian passengers and others, expressions of un- 
 bounded admiration. A number of small, romantic, 
 round-topped heights, green and luxuriant to the 
 very water's edge — some covered with grass, others 
 with trees — formed with each other " bosky dells " 
 and hollows, which would have been the glory of 
 some gentleman's estate in England. While day- 
 light lasted, the same scenery continued to atti-act 
 our gaze, whenever we neared the coast of Kafirland, 
 for a hundi-ed miles together : and daybreak on 
 Monday, Jan. 30, found us speeding along the shore, 
 with a favourable breeze, and passing the mouth of 
 the Umzimkulu, a large river, which, though second 
 in size and importance to the former, was one of more 
 interest to me, as the boundary between the tract of 
 Independent Kafraria and the colony of Natal.
 
 6 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 
 
 Little, however, could be seen at first, though my 
 eyes were eagerly turned towards the shores of my 
 adopted country. Once I caught a glimpse of the 
 land for a few minutes, with the river just abreast 
 of us. But the outlines only were visible : the fea- 
 tures were hidden from view by the rainy, misty, 
 atmosphere of the early morning. As the sun rose, 
 nowever, the mist and rain cleared away ; and, when 
 I next mounted the deck, the coast was before me, 
 green as an emerald, and the hills so beautifully 
 sloped, that I can only compare the scenery with 
 that of Devonshire and Cornwall, except that here 
 in Natal, as in Kafraria, the green heights go down 
 to the very edge of the white beach, which margins 
 the shore all along for miles. What surprised us 
 most was the greenness of everything, in the very 
 midst of the hot season ; whereas at the Cape we had 
 left everything burnt up, and brown, and dusty, with 
 the thermometer at 100° in the shade, and 1.50° in 
 the sun. But this difference, it appears, arises from 
 the fact that, in these eastern parts of South Africa, 
 the summer season is also the rainy season, and, 
 therefore, perpetual verdure covers the land, except, 
 of course, where the natives burn the grass. 
 
 About 10 A.M. we reached the Natal Bluff, behind 
 which lay the bay. Upon this stood a light-house 
 and signal-station, to which we made signs for a 
 boat to come off. And then, gliding gently by the 
 Bluff Head, we came in view, gradually, of the outer 
 bay of Durban, with its white line of breakers 
 stretching across the middle, and indicating the
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 7 
 
 presence of the notorious " bar." The entrance to 
 the inner, or real, bay of Durban, is about 300 yards 
 wide at high water, but was so hidden from view as 
 to be scarcely discernible. A boat, however, soon came 
 out, in which I landed, having crossed the bar with 
 a little tossing, but no real danger or difficulty. The 
 distance from Table Bay to Port Natal (or Durban) 
 is about 800 miles ; and the whole sea-voyage from 
 England occupied just six weeks, besides half a week 
 spent at Capetown. 
 
 Monday, Jan. 30, 1854. — At noon this day I 
 stepped out upon the jetty at Port Natal, a stranger 
 among strangers ; but I was very soon relieved from 
 all uncertainty as to my future movements, by the 
 kind attentions of Mr. Middleton, one of the church- 
 wardens of Durban, who had come down to the 
 Custom House to meet me, with a horse for my 
 use, upon the bare possibility of my landing, as the 
 Bishop of Capetown had intimated in his farewell 
 letter, which (singularly enough) had been read in 
 the church of Durban only the day previous to my 
 arrival, that I should (God willing) leave England 
 in December. The Calcutta, however, had brought 
 up the mails — not, indeed, before they were due — but 
 a full fortnight before the time at which they usually 
 reached the colony, and the good people of Durban 
 were completely taken by surprise. Indeed, I was 
 assured by one of the merchants, that they reckoned 
 so confidently on the regular irregularity of the 
 postal arrangements, that the punctual delivery of 
 their letters on this very occasion was a source of
 
 8 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 actual inconvenience, from the fact that many were 
 absent from the Port, in the interior of the country, 
 upon matters of business, never dreaming that their 
 presence would be required for a week or ten days 
 to come. 
 
 Under the guidance of Mr. Middleton and Mr. 
 Savory, (another zealous member of the Church of 
 England,) I rode up from the Point, near which 
 I landed, to the town of Durban, a distance of two 
 miles.* At low water, it is possible to ride by a 
 shorter cut along the sands. We took the path 
 through the bush, which, though somewhat sandy, 
 was sufficiently cool and agreeable. My two com- 
 panions called it a hot day for Durban : but the 
 heat was not comparable to that of the Cape on the 
 day I left it. We saw some elegant butterflies on 
 the way, and some far from elegant Kafirs, whose 
 first appearance, in complete undress, was by no 
 means prepossessing. In this respect, however, a 
 very great improvement has taken place, even since 
 I have been in the colony, more especially within 
 the towns, as I shall have occasion to mention here- 
 after. The conversation turned naturally upon the 
 question of Kafir education, and I found that my 
 two friends had very little confidence in the success 
 of Missionary operations among the Zulus. " The 
 Missionaries are too familiar with them. You must 
 
 * Port Natal is to Durban what Port Phillip is to Melbourne ; that 
 is to say, there is no such place as eitiier Port Phillip or Port Natal, 
 these being only names applied to the iownsai Melbourne and Dui'ban, 
 considered a« ports.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 9 
 
 never indulge a Kafir — never shake hands with 
 him. He does not understand it, and will soon take 
 liberties." However, they both admitted that the 
 advice and example of Mr. Shepstone was the very 
 best to be followed. 
 
 A ride of half-an-hour bi'ought us to the town 
 of Durban, of which I can hardly yet form a judg- 
 ment. I have seen a number of detached, pretty- 
 looking cottages, very small ; also some shabby- 
 looking huts, which I take to belong to Kafirs, 
 but am not quite so sure of this. On reaching 
 McDonald's Hotel, where I decided to remain while 
 at Durban, I very soon received a visit from the 
 Eev. W. H. C. Lloyd, Colonial Chaplain, and pro- 
 cured from him a full account of the state of things 
 in this place, as regards the progress of the Church 
 and the educational wants of the inhabitants. I 
 find that there are about 400 houses in Durban, 
 and 1,200 white inhabitants, almost all English, be- 
 sides a great number of Kafirs employed in service. 
 Opposite to my window, which looked out upon the 
 market-square, stood the unfinished church of St. 
 Paul's, the walls of which had risen to the top of the 
 windows, but were there arrested for want of funds. 
 I had hoped to have found this church at least com- 
 pleted, and ready for consecration on my landing ; 
 but many unfortunate circumstances had contri- 
 buted to hinder the progi-ess of the works. Among 
 others, the original contractor had failed, and, find- 
 ing himself in a difficulty, had sold ofi" the 30,000 
 bricks which he had ready for the finishing of the
 
 10 TEN WEEES IN NATAL. 
 
 church. It now became necessary to make a new 
 supply of bricks. But by this time the price of 
 labour had been doubled in the colony, and the 
 funds at first subscribed fell far short of completing 
 the work. Before returning to England I was enabled 
 to promise some assistance towards the completion 
 of the building, — at least, of the part required for 
 public worship. But it will be long, I fear, before 
 the tower can be attempted, and the sound of a peal 
 of bells fall with its pleasant welcome upon the emi- 
 grant's ears, as he lands upon this far-off shore. The 
 only bell in Durban at this time, of any preten- 
 sions to sound, is that of the Wesleyan Chapel. 
 
 Tuesday, Jan. 31. — At the close of this morning's 
 Second Lesson, the first chapter in the Bible which 
 I have read in Natal, came the cheering words : 
 " Go ye into all the world, and preach the Gospel to 
 every creature. And lo! I am with you ahvay." 
 God grant me grace, and strength, and wisdom, to 
 fulfil the part of this glorious work which is allotted 
 to me in this laud ! 
 
 Had many calls this day from the churchmen of 
 Durban, and from others, who, though not members 
 of the Church of England, yet came in kindness and 
 Christian charity to greet me. There is, I find, 
 a Government school here for the lower classes, the 
 master of which, Mr. Nisbett, is in deacon's orders, 
 and was formerly an inspector of negro schools in 
 the West Indies, and afterwards a teacher in Canada. 
 But there is a great need of an efficient grammar 
 school, either here or at Maritzburg — or perhaps in
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 11 
 
 both places, for children of a higher class, — the only 
 school which has hitherto existed for such children 
 in Durban, which was conducted by an Indepen- 
 dent minister, having been just broken up, and the 
 teacher turned to store-keeping. There is also abun- 
 dant room for a national and an infant-school, to be 
 conducted on Church principles, towards which it 
 is probable that assistance from the Government 
 would be given in proportion to our own exertions. 
 I find so much to interest and engage my attention 
 in the Church affairs of this place, that I have 
 decided to remain here over the Sunday, instead 
 of proceeding at once, as I had intended, to Maritz- 
 burg. 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 1. — Received to-day many visi- 
 tors, and had much conversation about the Kafirs, 
 many of whom are to be seen from my window, at 
 all hours, crossing the market-square, stalking along 
 with upright forms and heads thrown back, tall, 
 manly figures — or else, with their huge long whips, 
 driving into or out of the town their masters' 
 wagons, each with its span of 12 or 14 oxen. They 
 make, it seems, excellent nurses, — that is, the men 
 do — for the women are very rarely willing to en- 
 gage in service. Of their faithfulness and honesty 
 I have heard already many remarkable instances, 
 — such as the following, which, considering that 
 they know well by this time the value of money, 
 were to me, fresh from England, not a little sur- 
 prising. 
 
 Mr. R. told me that he has sent a Kafir eighteen
 
 12 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 'miles to receive a sum of 20^., which was paid him 
 in sovereigns told out before him, and faithfully de- 
 livered to his master. The Insurance Company, 
 having to send cash from Maritzburg to Durban, 
 (52 miles,) would prefer, to any other mode of con- 
 veyance, despatching two Kafirs with it, sewed up 
 in belts about their waists. They would send, with 
 perfect security in this way, as much as 500?., for 
 a payment of 10s. to each Kafir. Mr. G. engaged 
 one day a stray Kafir — such as come at every new 
 moon, five or six together, call at your house, and 
 ask if you want a servant. At the end of the 
 month, he told him that he wanted to send a mes- 
 sage to Compensation, and he must go with it. The 
 Kafir had not said a word before about leaving ; but, 
 not relishing, probably, the idea of so long a trudge, 
 (30 miles,) he now said that, as his month was up, 
 he wished to be paid his money and to leave the 
 service. Mr. G. insisted on his going, (for which 
 he always paid an extra 5s., whether the man were 
 already in his service or not ;) but the Kafir walked 
 away. Upon this his master went to his hut, and 
 brought away his cherished stock of sticks and 
 knob-kirries, of which a Kafir has always several 
 by him. The man returned in about an hour, and 
 claimed his sticks. " Not till you promise to go 
 to Compensation." Mr. G. had no legal right to 
 enforce this ; but the Kafir agreed to go, received 
 his sticks, and went, — having to bring back a reply 
 to his master's message. But, would he go after 
 all? Was it only a pretext, in order to get back his
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 13 
 
 sticks 1 Was it only a lie — such as, perchance, some 
 white man might have coined for such an occasion 1 
 He was utterly unknown to Mr. G. He had hired him 
 a perfect stranger, and had had him for one month 
 in his employ, and did not even know the kraal to 
 which he belonged : so that, if he had chosen to 
 break his word, and fulfil his original intention of 
 going home to his people, instead of carrying the 
 message, there would have been scarcely a possi- 
 bility of his being detected and punished. He went, 
 delivered the message, and brought back — not merely 
 the reply — but 251. in gold and silver, which was paid 
 to the poor Kafir for his master, who did not in the 
 least expect it. 
 
 Thursday, Feb, 2. — I have now seen the town 
 sufficiently to know that it may be described as a 
 large collection of cottages, with a few small villa- 
 like buildings and other houses — interspersed with 
 green foliage, little gardens, and remnants of the old 
 " bush," and ajyparently scattered about without any 
 order, but really arranged in streets, or along roads, 
 which cross each other at right angles, and are of 
 considerable width, but are covered a foot deep, as 
 is also the Market Square, with white sand, which in 
 this strong easterly wind is blowing about disagree- 
 ably enough. (Almost the only winds here are from 
 the north-east and south-west, that is, along the line 
 of coast; and they change very suddenly, perhaps, 
 with a lull of three minutes, from one to the other.) 
 This quantity of sand, under foot always, and some- 
 times, as now, in the eyes and mouth, is certainly a
 
 14 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 drawback to Durban, as a place of residence ; but it 
 could be easily remedied, at least in the Market- 
 place, if there were but a municipal body here, (as 
 there now is, Jan 1, 1855.) For this sand, once en- 
 closed and guarded, and not allowed to be trampled 
 down by oxen, would rapidly become covered with 
 vegetation, as in fact it is all around the town, and 
 was, a few years ago, where the town now stands. A 
 greater evil in Durban is the water, which is taken 
 usually from wells that are not sunk deep enough, 
 and, consequently, abounds with decaying vegetable, 
 if not animal, matter, and innumerable animalcules 
 and worms. The effect is by no means favourable 
 to the health of the residents, more especially that 
 of the children, who have no refuge, I suppose, as 
 their parents have, in stronger beverages. Some 
 wells have been sunk deeper, and the water has 
 been found to be brackish. Deeper still, no doubt, 
 it would be pure enough. At present, the remedy 
 is to drink rain water, or the water of the Umgeni 
 Kiver, which is brought by carriers a distance of 
 four miles, and is excellent. Indeed, bad the Dutch 
 founded the town of Durban, as they did that of 
 Maritzburg, they would long ago have had the 
 Umgeni pouring its beneficent streams through 
 every street, and bringing health and cleanliness 
 to every door. How long will it be before the 
 public spirit of Englishmen will achieve this? A 
 public library is much wanted in Durban. 
 
 Had an interview with His Honour, the Lieutenant 
 Governor, B. C. C. Pine, Esq., who, with Captain
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 15 
 
 Struben, the magistrate of the Klip River Division, 
 and Mrs. Struben, rode into Durban last evening from 
 Maritzburg. He has, I find, appointed a commission 
 to prepare a Kafir grammar and vocabulary ; and he 
 desires as soon as possible to enforce the rule, as in 
 India, that all functionaries of the Government, en- 
 gaged among the natives, shall pass an examination 
 in the Zulu language. His Honour expressed a wish 
 to place me on the commission, to which, of course, 
 I gladly assented, though I can do nothing in this 
 matter, I fear, until my return from England. The 
 only Zulu grammar as yet published, is that of 
 Mr. Schi'oeder, written in the Danish language — the 
 work of an excellent missionary and able philo- 
 logist, but not suited for beginners, or for English 
 students generally. There are Kafir Grammars, by 
 Messrs. Boyce and Appleyard ; but the dialectic varia- 
 tions of the language spoken by the British Kafirs, for 
 whose use these were written, from that spoken by the 
 Natal Kafirs, or Zulus, are considerable, though their 
 principles are identical — the same language, funda- 
 mentally, being common to the millions of heathens 
 who inhabit this part of Africa, as far north as the 
 equator and beyond it. It is this fact, indeed, which 
 gives to the Church Missions in Natal a peculiar 
 significance — the natives of this district being placed 
 midway, as it were, between the northern and 
 southern tribes, and having intimate relations with 
 them on both sides. 
 
 The Zulus, properly so called, are a small tribe of 
 about 5,000 people, and never, probably, in the days
 
 16 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 of their great chief, Chaka, numbered more than 
 this. But, Chaka having sprung from this tribe, and, 
 by his bloody and ferocious wars, having secured to 
 it the sovereignty over all the other tribes of this 
 part of Africa, the name of Zulu has come to be 
 applied to all, indiscriminately, who came beneath 
 his power, and subsequently under that of his bro- 
 thers, Dingaan and Panda, the last of whom is the 
 present chief of the Amazulu. In point of fact, how- 
 ever, the Kafir popvJation of Natal admits of a four ' 
 fold division ; namely, (1) those who have come within 
 the last few years, (and, indeed, are still coming,) as 
 refugees from the Zulu country, to the north-east of 
 Natal, escaping from the cruel oppressions of the 
 chiefs, Dingaan and Panda ; (2) those who came in 
 with Panda, (see the Historical Sketch prefixed,) 
 and have thought it best not to go back with him ; 
 (3) those who have returned from the neighbouring 
 countries, to which they fled in former days to 
 seek shelter from the desolating ravages of Chaka 
 and Dingaan ; and (4) those — some very few thou- 
 sands only — who remained behind during these 
 terrible invasions, hiding themselves in the thick 
 bush, and amidst the exceedingly wild, and almost 
 impenetrable, recesses of the southern district of 
 Natal. To all these the name of Zulu is now given; 
 and the language, as it will be settled by this Com- 
 mission, firom intercourse with the natives in all 
 parts of the colony, and finally adopted as the stan- 
 dard for the whole district, will be the Zulu-Kafir 
 language. Of course, the vernacular of different
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 17 
 
 tribes may be expected to differ considerably from 
 tliis, just as the dialect of Yorkshire or Somerset- 
 shire differs from pure English. But the progress of 
 education, when the missionaries are all referred to 
 a common standard, -will tend gradually to do away 
 with such distinctions. 
 
 Received this morning an address from the Church- 
 men of Durban, and wrote a reply. 
 
 At 2 P.M., started on horseback for the Inanda 
 station, Mr. Lindley's, one of the American mission- 
 aries; but was forewarned that the Umgeni, which 
 was to be crossed some four miles out of Durban, 
 would, perhaps, be impassable for horses, owing to 
 the heavy rains of yesterday, in the direction of 
 Maritzbiirg. We rode out of the town, (which, I be- 
 gin to see, is larger and even prettier than it struck 
 me at first as being,) and up the beautiful heights 
 of the Berea, covered with thick bush, fantastically 
 tangled with elegant drooping wild-flowers. At the 
 top of this the view is usually sketched of the town 
 and bay of Durban. It was hot, ascending the Berea ; 
 but then clouds came on, and there were tokens of 
 a thunder-storm two hours hence; and now the air 
 became as cool and pleasant as could be desired, and 
 so it continued for the rest of our ride. We passed 
 some magnificent scenery, and saw more in the dis- 
 tance. The road was, certainly, in parts very rough 
 and steep ; but I am told that a strong-built carriage 
 and pair of horses may now be driven all the way to 
 Maritzburg. When we reached the Umgeni, we found 
 the water ten feet deep, and flowing too violently for 
 c
 
 18 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 our horses to swim across; and so were obliged to 
 return to Durban. 
 
 Friday, Feh. 3. — Had an interesting conversation 
 with Capt. Struben, who gave me a full account of 
 his late affair with Radarada, which I may as well 
 give at length, as an illustration of the present cir- 
 cumstances of the colony. This was a chief of the 
 Klip River Division, Avho had squatted upon land, 
 from which, as it belonged to a Dutch Boer, he was 
 required to remove to another spot. He went there, 
 and this too, it was found, belonged to another Boer, 
 though he had not yet claimed it. Radarada had to 
 be displaced again, but not without providing another 
 suitable site for his use. However, about this time, 
 Gen. Cathcart's, or, as people consider it here, Mo- 
 shesh's, victory of the Berea (in the Sovereignty) 
 took place, and Radarada was emboldened to refuse 
 to obey the Government order. Again and again, 
 he was required to attend to the directions of the 
 " Great House j" but he still continued to maintain 
 a stubborn, though quiet, resistance to the " powers 
 that be" in Natal. At length, some time in last 
 October (1853), Capt. S. sent his Kafir marshal to 
 him, with a final message to this effect. " Tell Rada- 
 rada that it is now eighteen months since he was 
 first ordered to quit his location. Tell him that I 
 have received the orders of the ' Great House ' to 
 see that he removes, and those orders I must obey. 
 Tell him from me, as a friend, that I advise him to 
 remove at once, and avoid any painful consequences." 
 The chief tried at first to bribe the messeno;er with
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 19 
 
 ten cows to go back, and say that he had already 
 left the ground. The man was faithful, and would 
 not. " Besides, what would be the use of it 1 The 
 iuKos' says, he will come himself, and see whether 
 you have obeyed his orders." When Radarada found 
 that bribery would not do, he turned to the mes- 
 senger, and said, " Wliy may I not make you cold — 
 dead — at once V "Yes; you can make me dead, if 
 you please. I have no arms. The inKos' told me 
 to take none whatever, because I was sent on a mes- 
 sage of peace. But, if you do kill me, I warn you 
 that he will avenge my death, and the consequences 
 will be terrible to yourself and yoxxv tribe." Finding 
 that his life was really in danger, the man got away 
 the next day, sent to his master an accoiuit of his 
 doings, and stopped with a neighbouring tribe to 
 gather information. He soon had to report, that 
 Radarada was preparing to maintain his position by 
 force, that he had sent his wives and cattle to the 
 mountains, and that one or two other chiefs were 
 waiting and watching the proceedings, ready to take 
 part with him, if his cause appeared likely to prevail. 
 No time was now to be lost in asserting the autho- 
 rity of the Government, or a serious danger might be 
 apprehended to the district, and, indeed, to the whole 
 colony. Capt. Struben and Mr. Blaine, a neigh- 
 bouring magistrate, assembled immediately a small 
 party of white men, fourteen in number, and started 
 so as to reach Radarada's kraal just before daybreak, 
 when Kafirs are usually asleep. His spies, however, 
 were on the watch, and a body of 150 warriors was 
 c2
 
 20 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 found drawn up, to oppose the petty force of the 
 magistrates. Some of the latter were for firing at 
 once ; but Capt. S, restrained them. " Let us by all 
 means avoid blood-shedding, if possible. Do not 
 fire till I give the word. Tell them, any of you that 
 know the language, to lay down their arms, for we 
 come with peaceful intentions." At that moment 
 he observed a Zulu, within three yards, twirling his 
 assegai for a fling at himself. Drawing out his pistol, 
 Capt. S. shot him dead ; but the weapon left the 
 Kafir's hand, and whizzed past him, just as the shot 
 was fired. The Zulu assegais now flew upon the 
 white men in great numbers, and Capt. Struben gave 
 the word to fire. Several fell, wounded or killed — 
 the rest fled — Radarada keeping himself in the back- 
 gi'ound, and ultimately retiring, with the rest of his 
 people, over the Kahlamba. The power of that chief 
 is now quite destroyed, and, what is of far more 
 consequence, the evil prestige of the affaii' at the 
 Berea has been done away completely for the present 
 among the tribes of Natal. 
 
 Capt. Stniben also gave me the following narra- 
 tive, as an instance of the efiects of a firm, decisive, 
 way of dealing with the Kafirs. 
 
 Nodada is a powerful chief, who was once driven 
 out of the land in the old conflicts, probably in the 
 time of Dingaan, but has now returned, and settled 
 on the Klip River. One day, Capt. S. went to see 
 him, and found him very full of inquiries. "Where 
 did the new suns come from? Everyday a new 
 fiery circle rose up in the East, and went down in the
 
 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL, 21 
 
 West." The Captain took a mcalic-stalk, and gave 
 him a rough illustration of the rising and setting of 
 the sun. Then he had questions about the stars and 
 the moon — all showing a remarkable shrewdness of 
 intellect. All night long, from 7 p.m. to 4 a.m., 
 Capt. S. lay upon his mat, discoursing thus with 
 this Kafir chief ; and at last the conversation 
 tui'hed upon the state after death. " Where does 
 the white man go t How do you know it 1 Has 
 any one come back to tell you 1 The black men 
 went somewhere — nobody knew whither — and some- 
 times they came back, in the form of snakes, to tell 
 some secret to their friends. The misfortune was 
 that, when they did, nobody could understand them, 
 except only the inYanga (witch-doctor)." 
 
 The next morning Nodada begged that Capt. S . 
 would enter his kraal, and, in the presence of his 
 people, gathered around him, would answer aloud to 
 some questions which he would put, and give good 
 advice to them. " I often talk to them, and tell them 
 what you tell me, but they do not believe me." Of 
 course, the magistrate was glad to do so, and took the 
 oppoi'tunity of setting before the assembled tribe their 
 duties to the English people, their benefactors ; who 
 " did not receive them in their distress, and grant 
 them lands to live upon, in order to encourage them 
 in idleness, but for the purpose of inducing them to 
 labour, and improve their condition, and become more 
 like to the English themselves." The address had 
 not proceeded far, when the Captain's eye fell upon 
 a man, whom he recognised at once as a convict.
 
 22 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 escaped from the prisou-hiit, in which he had been 
 confined under sentence for a serious crime, com- 
 mitted against a woman of his own tribe. Notice of 
 this escape had been sent immediately to Nodada, as 
 his cliief, and he liad rephed that the culprit was 
 not at his kraal. Turning to the interpreter, Capt. S. 
 inquired, " Is not that Adonas ?" " Yes." " Then 
 ask the chief, ' Why have my eyes seen him before 
 his 1 and why have I seen him here, instead of at 
 Ladismith (the chief town of the district) 1 ' " The 
 chief replied, " It is he ; I see him ; but hush ! 
 hush ! when you are gone, I will seize him ; I cannot 
 now ; there will be an uproar among the people." 
 (There were about four or five hundred of them 
 present.) " Tell him that I insist upon his being 
 taken immediately, in the name of the Queen of 
 England, and that he must do it, whatever may 
 be the consequences." "I cannot; the people wall 
 be enraged ; the inKos' is alone ; we are far away 
 from any other white people." " Speak loudly to 
 him, that all may hear. Say that I insist upon his 
 seizing that man, and that, if he does not, I will 
 compel him to do so." Then, observing that the 
 chief still hesitated, he exclaimed, " Bring me my 
 pistols ;" then to the chief, " Now, observe these are 
 loaded. Bring me that man as a prisoner. The 
 first man who resists you I will shoot dead, for he 
 is a rebel, and the punishment of rebellion is 
 death !" Nodada rose up, gave orders to some 
 of his counsellors, and the man was taken and 
 brouo-ht before them. His case was investigated
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 23 
 
 anew upon the spot, and proved once more dis- 
 tinctly against him. "And now," said Capt. 
 Struben, " I sentence that man to receive twenty 
 lashes." They were given by the Kafirs of his own 
 kraal, and the culprit was ordered back to prison. 
 Then- stood up Nodada -. " Will you allow me to 
 kiss your hand ? You are a just man. Whenever 
 you want help for any purpose, send to me, and 
 you shall have it." From that hour to this, he 
 has never had the slightest difiiculty with Nodada. 
 
 But while advocating ^r??iMess— perhaps even a 
 strictness approaching to severity — in the treat- 
 ment of Kafirs, Capt. Struben spoke of them with 
 a warm and affectionate interest, and with such a 
 hopeful desii'e for their real welfare, as quite re- 
 freshed and cheered me. He said, however, much 
 of the mistakes made by missionaries in beginning 
 at the wrong end, and expecting to get through 
 Christianity to industry, instead of through indus- 
 trial pursuits to the reception of Christianity. On 
 this point, indeed, all, with whom I have conversed 
 upon the subject, are agreed— at least, so far as to 
 confirm the principle, upon which our Church Mis- 
 sions are to be conducted, of carrying on the indus- 
 trial and religious training of the natives together, 
 and making the one re-act upon the other. But we 
 must not expect too much of these poor heathens, 
 or that their minds, overgrown with error, (like their 
 native hills around them, with the wild luxuriance 
 and matted grass of ages,) shall be capable of 
 receiving at once and cherishing that advanced
 
 24 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Christianity, to which we in England have been 
 brought through centuries of cultivation. 
 
 Capt. S. tells me that his is the only district in 
 the colony, where Zulu girls can be got to work. 
 Mrs. S. has a young lass with her as a servant, very 
 tidily and prettily dressed ; but her mistress tells 
 me, that "she is only longing for the 'holiday- time' 
 to come, when she may throw off all her clothing, 
 and go back to her barbarous habits again." And, 
 indeed, this I find to be the great complaint of 
 many of the colonists, the great proof of gross 
 "ingratitude" on the part of the natives, — that 
 when they have been in service four or five months, 
 however pressing may be their master's circum- 
 stances, however earnest his entreaty for them to 
 remain at their post, they will be off for six weeks 
 or two months together, to revisit their native 
 kraal, and resume their native habits. 
 
 No doubt this practice is attended with serious 
 inconveniences. The farm is perhaps deserted at 
 the most critical time ; or, if the settler is engaged 
 in trade, no sooner does the Kafir become expert 
 at it, than his time is up, and he is gone. But, 
 after all, is there anything so very strange in this 
 feeling, so very indicative of hard hearts and base 
 ingratitude for favours received ? Does a school- 
 boy so deeply appreciate the attentions of his 
 preceptor, or of the good lady who presides over 
 his domestic affairs, that, when the four or five 
 months of toil are over, — in spite of all the pies 
 and puddings, sports and games, to say nothing of
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 25 
 
 the stripes and bufFetings, or scoldings, at least, ■wliich 
 he may have been privileged to partake of, — he -will 
 be found loth to break away from such kind friends, 
 and such enjoyable employments 1 Does he never 
 reckon upon his mouth or so of holiday, weeks and 
 months beforehand ? and, the more affectionate and 
 good a child he is, long the more intensely for the 
 endearments of his home 1 It may be a small house 
 — a poor and a mean one — but still it is home; 
 and, with all its discomforts and drawl)acks, there is 
 something there, for the absence of which not all 
 the " splendid grounds," and " airy chambers," and 
 "plentiful feeding," and "pai'ental care," of the 
 most highly lauded school-house can ever make 
 amends. 
 
 And so with these poor heathen children — the 
 Zulu servants — who, in fact, are mostly very young- 
 men. Is it so very sti'ange, unuatural, inhuman, 
 that they should wish to take their "holiday" in 
 its season, and, having done their duty faithfully 
 for the time to their master, should long for the 
 dirt and disagreeables of their native kraal; for 
 the in-gathering of the mealie-crop of the tribe; 
 for the feast, the dance, the whistling, whizzing, 
 stamping, singing, or howling, if you will, of their 
 "home-circle" of acquaintances ? I must confess, I 
 see no reason whatever to charge this practice upon 
 them, as a sign of their wa7U of feeling; but rather 
 I find in it a sign of hope, — a token that they have 
 human feelings like ours, and are therefore acces- 
 sible to the tidings of great joy, for themselves and
 
 26 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 for those they love, which shall reveal to them their 
 Great Friend and Father in Heaven. They are 
 ready always to come back after the holidays, and 
 greet their old masters with a brightened eye, where- 
 ever they meet them. Sensible persons, however, 
 and those of old experience in the colony, know how 
 to manage, and have no difficulty of this kind with 
 their Kafirs. A lady told me, she had three in her 
 employ, who came at intervals, so as to relieve each 
 other, and keep her always supplied with a good 
 servant. She had had the same for three years, and 
 had nothing whatever to complain of them. 
 
 But, besides the reasons above assigned, there is 
 another special one for the young men wishing to 
 go home from time to time — namely, to make 
 acquaintance with the intovibies, or young women, 
 whom they will one day acquire for wives. The 
 Zulu servants are exceedingly thrifty, and careful 
 of their money : they never spend it on them- 
 selves, I am told — are never, or very rarely, seen 
 intoxicated. They hoard their four mouths' saving, 
 and bury it, until they can buy a cow ; and eight 
 or nine cows will buy a cominon wife. A chief's 
 daughter's price will be, perhaps, 150 cows. "And 
 yet," says Mr. Fynn, in his evidence before the 
 late Kafir Commission, " it is a mistake to sup- 
 pose that this price is paid for the jmrchase of 
 a wife. That is not the native idea of the trans- 
 action. Or, at least, whatever may be the present 
 notion, the original intention was, that it should 
 be a kind of deposit or pledge for the proper
 
 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 27 
 
 treatment of the woman, and an assurance of the 
 husband's regard paid down to the parent. And, 
 accordingly, a girl considers herself slighted and con- 
 temned if not paid for. One ran away from her 
 husband, and left him, as not having been duly 
 married to him, when she found that she had not 
 been paid for. ' If she was not worth paying for,' 
 she said, ' she was not worth having.' " 
 
 Received a visit from H. M. Owen, Esq., Her 
 Majesty's Commissioner, with Sir George Clerk, for 
 settling the affairs of the Sovereignty. He appears 
 greatly impressed with the luxuriant beauty of this 
 colony, and speaks of the country as far more 
 advanced than British Kafraria. Of the Sovereignty, 
 where he has resided for some time, he speaks in 
 most disparaging terms, as a country for occupation 
 by European settlers. " Its character, as a grazing 
 district, has been immensely exaggerated by in- 
 terested parties, who have bought large farms for 
 £5 or £6, and now want to make out that they are 
 exceedingly valuable." " The chief town of Bloem 
 Fontein is nothing but a collection of huts, in the 
 midst of a desert of blowing sand ; and you may 
 travel over the country, during parts of the year, 
 for days together, without seeing a blade of grass." 
 " Sir -George Clerk being ill at Bloem Fontein, and 
 wanting a draught of milk, was unable to obtain it 
 at any price." 
 
 Mr. Owen knew the Basuto chief, Moshesh, 
 thoroughly, having spent months with him, and 
 considers him the noblest Kafir in all South Africa.
 
 28 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 He is, in fact, far more civilized than any other of 
 his kind — lives in a regular house — wears English 
 clothes — and, when he gives you a meal, spreads a 
 table-cloth, and sets before you, perhaps, a pot of 
 marmalade, or some other European dainty. His sons 
 were educated at Capetown. Mr. Owen saw one of 
 them at his father's, lolling on a sofa, and reading 
 " The Confessions of Harry Lorrequer." Mo'shesh 
 is now attended by a body-guard, who carry the 
 lances, wear the uniforms, and, most probably, ride 
 the horses, of our poor Lancers, thirty-five of whom 
 were killed in that unfortunate battle of Berea. 
 Only fourteen or fifteen of the Kafir men fell in 
 that conflict, in which the British force was very 
 inferior, having numbered 2,400 men when it left 
 the frontier, but having been reduced to 1,040 
 before it came into collision with Moshesh's people, 
 and these having been scattered in detached parties, 
 and posted so as to be unable to support, or even 
 to see, each other. It is to be feared, however, 
 that some of the Kafir women were massacred upon 
 this occasion. Mr. Owen, to whose lot it fell to 
 bury many of the dead, saw at least the corpse of 
 one poor woman, with a bayonet wound full in her 
 breast. Moshesh has lately " eaten up" Sinkoneyalla, 
 one of our " allies," who has applied to us for redress, 
 which he will not get. He is now going to eat up 
 Marokho, another of our allies, who has refused 
 to recognise his supremacy, and pay him tribute. 
 Should there be war again on the frontier, Moshesh, 
 though against his will, will be compelled by the
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 29 
 
 enthusiasm of his people, headed by his sons, to 
 join in it. But it is thought that the Dutch in the 
 Sovereignty, which has now been abandoned by Eng- 
 land, will very soon be at issue with Moshesh, and 
 are likely to make short and decisive work with him. 
 
 Saw some" splendid specimens of Natal birds, which 
 were going to England. Saw also the skin of an 
 enormous snake, sixteen or seventeen feet long, which 
 had been shot by one of the settlers. 
 
 This evening I attended the first meeting of the 
 "Durban Philharmonic Society." I could not well 
 spare the time ; but, indeed, I was very desirous to 
 assist the movement, and to help forward the young 
 people of the place, in their efforts for rational and 
 social amusements of this kind. I was glad also of 
 an opportunity of showing practically from the first, 
 that I did not consider true religion to consist in a 
 system of restrictions and negations, but in a real 
 spirit of devotion to God's service and love to our 
 fellow-men. There was a regular programme of 
 two parts, with eight pieces in each — from Handel, 
 Eossini, Beethoven, &c. The music hall was a large 
 store, fitted up ingeniously for the occasion with 
 flags and evergi'eens. But I was rather amused 
 when, in the middle of the performances, the ladies 
 were requested to step aside for a few minutes, while 
 part of the roof was taken off to cool the room ! 
 There was a colonial seraphine, on which a voluntary 
 was played by a colonial composei* — I believe, the 
 maker of the instrument — a colonial drum, and a 
 colonial band of about twelve performers, with
 
 30 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 violins, flutes, cornets a piston, pianoforte, French 
 horns, &c. ; and a very full, fair, attentive, and de- 
 lighted audience. 
 
 Saturday, Feb. 4. — Looked at some Kafir beads 
 jn one of the stores. The natives, it aj^pears, are as 
 capricious in their taste for beads, as any English 
 lady in the choice of her bonnet. The same pattern 
 will only suit them for a season or two ; and they 
 are at all times very difficult to please. One fine 
 blue bead was oval, not round, as it ought to have 
 been ; another black round one was a little too 
 large. The choicest kind are the umGazi (blood), a 
 small red bead ; the nest are the iTamho (bone, as if 
 bleached), a small white bead ; then the amaQanda 
 (egg), a round blue bead, rather large. A beautiful 
 new sort had just come out, likely to have a large 
 run ; but Panda will not allow any of his people to 
 buy any, until he has seen and approved of the 
 pattern : so the traders have taken them up to his 
 sable majesty. There is one large bead, like a 
 pigeon's egg, which no one but himself and his great 
 captains are allowed to buy. Traders have been 
 known to sell £150 worth of beads in a month, and 
 even ^40 worth in one day. 
 
 Saw to-day some very handsome locusts — large 
 creatiu'es, with brilliant colours, green and red. 
 But these are not the true, destructive, locusts, of 
 which there are hosts in the Sovereignty, and occa- 
 sionally a swarm in Natal. Makasana, an old chief, 
 above eighty, who lived away to the North, beyond 
 the Pongola River, is just dead. He is said to have
 
 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 31 
 
 died several times ami come to life again. He was 
 considered to be the king of the locusts : and, as 
 they are just now swarming in those parts, the 
 natives conclude that he is now really dead, and 
 has summoned them to make use of the property 
 he has left behind him. They have done this to 
 some effect : for the stench of them, it is said, is 
 dreadful — the rivers are full of them — the crops 
 destroyed — and the people are living upon locusts. 
 
 Dined with the Lieut.-Governor ; and had much 
 interesting conversation -with Capt. Shelley, who 
 has travelled extensively m the interior of South 
 Africa, and has not yet, I believe, completed his 
 wanderings. It appears that important govern- 
 ment works are now being earned on at the Point, 
 for deepening the entrance-channel of the bay, and 
 getting rid of the bar. This bar is caused by the 
 strong current down the eastern coast of Africa, 
 which sweeps along the outer bay from north to 
 south, is repelled from the projecting bluff at its 
 southern extremity, and so drops all the sand it 
 brings, especially that brought down by the Um- 
 geni, and forms a bar at the very entrance of the 
 inner or true bay. Already, it is said, the effect 
 of these works is considerable ; and, if the entrance 
 really be cleared, we shall have the most splendid, 
 and, indeed, the only really good and safe harbour 
 in all South Africa. " The enemy's India fleet must 
 come within sixty or a hundred miles of Port Natal ; 
 but need not come within COO of the Cape." 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 5. — A day full of blessing — God be
 
 32 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 praised ! Preached, in the morning, on tlie last two 
 verses of St. Matthew, the passage which struck me 
 as I read it, in the Second Lesson of the day after 
 I landed ; and, in the evening, on 2 Cor. i. 20, 
 (part of the Second Lesson,) " All the promises of 
 God in Him are Yea, and in Him Amen, unto the 
 glory of God by us." The room — the Government 
 school-room — was well-filled, and outside, under a 
 verandah, which ran the whole length of the build- 
 ing, there were forms placed, which were all occu- 
 pied. Three infants were baptized, and there were 
 about thirty Communicants. The singing and 
 chanting was excellent — except that, contrary to 
 the order of the Prayer Book, the introductory 
 sentence ("I will ai-ise," &c.), was sung instead of 
 said, by which the spirit of the Church-service is 
 quite perverted, and the edifying effect of its beau- 
 tiful arrangement is lost. The first part of the 
 service is meant to be quiet, solemn, humble, and 
 devout — without a word of singing ; till, suddenly, 
 having our hearts prepared with the cleansing 
 prayer of Confession, with the peaceful words of 
 the Absolution, and the calm, reassuring petitions 
 of the Lord's Prayer, we rise from our knees, and 
 burst forth into the song of praise, " come, let 
 us sing unto the Lord," &c. In the evening, per- 
 haps, there is less objection to the singing of a 
 sentence or hymn at the beginning of the service, 
 except as a departure from the directions of the 
 Rubric. Moreover, it is always distressing to have 
 the v;orshippers played out, and the effect of a
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 33 
 
 solemn sermon too often played away, "with a noisy, 
 rattling, Voluntary. 
 
 Mondaij, Feb. 6. — Started on horseback this morn- 
 ing for Maritzburg, accompanied by Mr. Lloyd, Mr. 
 Monro of Pinetown, and, for a few miles, by a party 
 of mounted gentlemen from Durban. My goods 
 had been despatched previously by a mule-wagon, 
 with''the exception of my writing-case and umbrella, 
 which had been left behind by accident, and of which 
 more hereafter. The scenery was splendid for the 
 whole thirteen miles to Pinetown, and the road all 
 the way may be called very good ; in some places, 
 where it was newly made and macadamised, it was 
 really excellent, as good as many an English turn- 
 pike-road. But the eye reached away, over a 
 magnificent country, to distant heights and val- 
 leys, all covered with verdure, from the loftiest 
 summit to the lowest bottom, and this in the 
 very height of the summer season, — a state of things, 
 which, as I before remarked, is chai'acteristic of 
 this part of Africa. We met many single Kafirs 
 on the way — tall, upright, manly figures — really 
 noble-looking fellows ; and it was a gi'eat plea- 
 sure to me to salute them with sahibona (we see 
 thee), and to receive their cheerful reply. Never- 
 theless, I learned afterwards not to be too free with 
 my salutations, or to use them promiscuously, if 
 I wished to maintain my influence with the Kafirs. 
 The above is the proper address from a superior 
 to an inferior. But the use of it is now so com- 
 mon, especially here about the bay, where the 
 
 D
 
 34 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 emigrants on first landing make many mistakes, 
 from their ignorance of the proper way of dealing 
 with the natives, that Kafirs who have been in 
 service are apt to employ it without due consi- 
 deration of the person they are addressing. " Saku- 
 hona" said one of them the other day to Mr. Shep- 
 stone, who is regarded (as I shall have occasion to 
 show more at length) with the utmost deference 
 and respect by the great body of the Zulus of Natal. 
 " U bona bani ? Thou seest — whom?" asked his 
 attendant, Ngoza. 
 
 As we drew near to Piuetown, a collection of 
 scattered cottages, with a small surrounding popu- 
 lation, we called at the house of a settler, who spoke 
 very feelingly of his want of spiritual assistance 
 for himself and his family. There is here a Pres- 
 byterian Church and Pastor : but the building is 
 much out of repair, and I was assured that there 
 were many members of the Church of England in 
 the village and neighbourhood, who would gladly 
 do their best to build a small chapel, and secure 
 the regular ministrations of an English clergyman 
 among them. On my arrival at the inn at Pine- 
 town, kept by Mr. Murray, the proprietor of a 
 large estate in this valley, I received at once from 
 him an offer of a grant of five acres of land, on 
 any part of his property, for the erection of a small 
 church : and I have requested that measures may 
 be taken to ascertain the wishes of the inhabitants 
 generally, and the amount they are willing to con- 
 tribute towards the build ino- of a church and the
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 35 
 
 support of a miuister, before I return to Euglaud. 
 There is an amusing story told of this inn, which 
 goes commonly by the name of " The Fort," from 
 the circumstance that, a few years ago, there was 
 some alai-m in the neighbourhood of a Kafir rising, 
 and Mr. M. and 110 of his neighboiu-s, English and 
 Dutch, came together, and regularly fortified his 
 house as a place of refuge. The Kafirs, meanwhile, 
 were seen hurrying with their wives and children 
 and cattle to the mountains. It was thought they 
 were collecting for war ; it turned out to be only 
 in terror at what the white men were intending. 
 
 We stopped an hour, and then proceeded, riding 
 aside, as we passed out of Pinetown, to inspect some 
 coffee-plants of Mr. Murray's. Very fine plants they 
 were, and covered with berries. Eighteen months 
 ago they were bought at Is. 6d. each : they were 
 then four inches high ; they were now three or four 
 feet. There were 150 plants altogether, and Mr. M. 
 calculated that they would produce half a muid 
 (90 lbs.) of coffee the fii'st season — worth (at 8hd.) 
 63s. 9d., on about half-a-rood of land. The labour, 
 he said, was a mere nothing : but, probably, some 
 allowance should be made for manure, as these were 
 planted in an old cattle-kraal. IVIr. M. was now 
 reaping a crop of buckwheat, which was put into 
 the ground two months and two days ago. He ex- 
 pected to have six muids to the acre, worth (at 12s. 
 per muid) 3^. 12s. But the seed was only what 
 dropped from the crop of last yeai-, ploughed in 
 again j for buckwheat ripens irregularly, and some 
 d2
 
 6b TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 ears are ripe, while others are still green. He meaut 
 to plough it once more for a third crop ; but then 
 he should not carry this off the land, but plough it 
 in as manure. This grain is used for feeding pigs 
 by the English ; but the Germans make it into 
 bread — rather black. Mr. Mun'ay told me, that 
 during the last four years, with from 100 to 150 
 people in Pinetown, they had had twenty-two births, 
 but no deaths from any disease. They have had 
 their burial-ground for three years and more, and 
 have buried two bodies in it ; one, that of an infant 
 which never lived ; the other, that of a man given 
 to drinking, who laid himself down one night, with 
 his head hanging over the edge of a box, and was 
 found dead in the morning. Mr. Monro's sister was 
 given over for decline in England, and was ordered 
 to Madeira : she came to Natal, and is completely 
 restored. 
 
 Shortly after leaving Pinetown, but not till we 
 had ascended a capital new piece of road, through the 
 same beautiful scenery as before, and had taken our 
 last view of the sea from the summit of the hill, 
 the character of the country began to change, and 
 it became very grassy, and gradually more and more 
 clear of trees. The surface of the ground still un- 
 dulated in large bold slopes ; but the aspect of the 
 whole was not that of a soil, so rich and exuberantly 
 fertile, as it had been nearer Durban. I saw, how- 
 ever, quantities of fine-looking clover in the grass, 
 and gathered some very elegant wild flowers. In 
 one place, enormoiis surfaces of granite cropped out,
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 0( 
 
 ■which we had to ride over, as they were level with 
 the road. But ever since leaving Durban, except 
 while passing through the valley of Pinetown, it has 
 been all up and down; and I am often reminded of 
 my native Cornish hills, except that here the pro- 
 portions of the scenery are so mvich more gigantic. 
 
 By the time we had ridden 14 miles from Pine- 
 town, the evening began to close in, and there were 
 threatenings of thunder and rain. We had now 
 reached the top of a long steep hill (which the new 
 road will avoid), at the bottom of which a little 
 purling stream was running, of which our horses 
 eagerly drank. This was Stirk's Spruit : and close 
 by was the little house of accommodation at which 
 we were to put vip for the night. Just as we reached 
 it, the first flashes of lightning gleamed ; and gradu- 
 ally the storm came up, with lightning, thunder, 
 and heavy rain, for an hour. Thank God, we were 
 under shelter ; but at the hour's end, the landlord 
 came in to say that the brook, which we had passed 
 an inch or two deep, was now utterly impassable, 
 rushing mightily along with eight feet of water in 
 it. Had we been caught by the storm on the other 
 side of the brook, there was no house nearer than 
 seven miles. 
 
 I have mentioned that my writing-case and 
 umbrella had been accidentally left behind, when 
 my wagon started from Durban with the rest of my 
 property. I was told that they would be sent on by 
 a Kafir, who would soon overtake the mules. When 
 I reached Stirk's Spruit, I found my articles missing.
 
 38 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 
 
 the formei" containing a bag of gold and papers of 
 some value. I had no alternative but to wait 
 patiently, and see what to-morrow would bring forth ; 
 when behold! about an hour after the storm had 
 ceased, appeared my box and umbrella, brought safe 
 and dry by a Kafir, who had left Durban after me, 
 but had walked nearly twenty-nine miles, (which 
 I had ridden,) carrying my burden and keeping it 
 from all injuiy, and yet arrived through the storm 
 and rain only two hours after me. He had, pro- 
 bally, taken shelter during the violence of the tem- 
 pest in some kraal of the neighbourhood. I sent 
 for him, and in he came, poor fellow ! dripping with 
 wet from the stream which he had just crossed, and 
 sat down upon his hams (as is their custom), and 
 joyfully received my present of five shillings. If my 
 box had contained 1,000^., and he had known it, it 
 would have been quite safe in his charge. The 
 landlord and his family came in to evening prayers 
 and exposition. 
 
 At 10 P.M., the Rev. J. Green, the clei-gyman of 
 Maritzburg, arrived at Stirk's Spruit to meet me, 
 having happily found shelter from the storm. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 7. — After prayers and exposition, 
 as usual, with the family and two travellers who had 
 arrived this morning,, we started the wagon, and 
 soon followed ourselves (Mr. G. and I) on horseback, 
 having taken leave of Mr. Lloyd, who had seen me 
 safe thus far on my way. Magnificent country 
 again, but grassy and bare of trees. We passed 
 through a herd of Zulu cattle on one of the downs,
 
 TEN "WEEKS IN NATAL. 39 
 
 with euormous horns. Abundance of clover gi-ew 
 in the grass, on which they seemed to be thriving. 
 We came at last to a grand descent, from the head 
 of which we looked down into something like a 
 plain, and gazed over an immense extent of country, 
 the hills rising again beyond the plain in all their 
 grandeur, and everything green and bright as usual. 
 After twelve miles of riding, we reached a neat way- 
 side inn, where we off-saddled and our mules out- 
 spanned. In this country, I find, horses are always 
 ridden at a walk or a canter ; and the latter will be 
 maintained for long distances, in the very heat of a 
 midsummer day, without, it would seem, distressing 
 either the rider or the horse. 
 
 After this the scenery began to show a remarkable 
 change in its appearance. It consisted still, almost 
 entirely, of hills and green slopes; but these were 
 sprinkled over with mimosa trees, with their cypress- 
 like forms, and flowers in the shape of clusters of 
 small yellow balls. The appearance of the whole 
 was quite park-like. 
 
 At Uys Dooms, rather more than five miles from 
 the city, I was met by a large party of gentlemen, 
 who had kindly ridden out to receive and welcome 
 their Bishop. After the reading of an address, to 
 which I briefly replied, we rode on together, our 
 numbers being swelled by additions, including a 
 few ladies and two Kafir chiefs, with their attend- 
 ants, until we formed a body of some sixty or more 
 equestrians. At last, said one to me, " There is 
 Maritzburg !" and there indeed it was, seeming to be
 
 40 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 only about half-a-mile off, down in a valley directly 
 before us ; but, to my surprise, I was told it was 
 still five miles off. It looked a long white town, 
 sloping gently down from the left to the right of the 
 picture, with the military camp posted on a little 
 eminence at the extreme left, and one conspicuous 
 tower rising from the centre, which belongs to the 
 Presbyterian Church, while the bell-tuiTet of the 
 Wesleyan Chapel was also visible, and even that of 
 the Roman-Catholic Chapel; but no trace was yet 
 discernible of the little church, or any buildings of 
 the Church of England. As we drew nearer, the 
 town looked exceedingly pretty from the number of 
 trees, with dark green foliage, which rise up in every 
 part of it, and, I am told, are growing rapidly, and 
 adding every year to the picturesque beauty of the 
 place. Certainly, the surrounding scenery, consisting 
 of huge downy hills, in the bosom of which Maritz- 
 burg is settled, is very inferior to that about Durban. 
 But the former town, for the size and character of 
 its buildings, and specially as regards cleanliness, 
 from the stream of water which runs on each side 
 through every street, must be considered to have at 
 present many advantages over the latter. Being 
 almost in the very centre of the colony, it is pro- 
 bable that Maritzburg will always continue to be 
 the seat of Government ; but notwithstanding this, 
 •and though the traflBic to and from the Klip River 
 district must pass through it, it appears to be a 
 much quieter place than the busy trading town and 
 port of Durban.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 41. 
 
 "We rode over the bridge, crossing the Little Bush- 
 man's River, which flows along one whole side of the 
 town, and, passing the burial grounds, (where dif- 
 ferences which separated Christians during life are 
 still permitted to part their bodies after death,) we 
 entered the broad streets of the city at about 
 3^ P.M., the people standing everywhere to greet 
 us, and the whole place presenting the appearance 
 of a great holiday — which in fact it was^ — imtil we 
 stopped at the door of the government schoolroom, 
 decorated with evergreens, which is now used as a 
 place of worship for the Church of England. Oppo- 
 site to this stood the Rev. J. D. Jenkins, with a 
 number of school children, and the Missionaries of 
 our Kafir Institution. After saluting these, I was led 
 to the vestry, and washed off some of the dust of my 
 journey; and, as the mules were not come in with my 
 robes, was obliged to take my place at the altar in 
 my travelling dress. The Old Hundredth was heartily 
 and devoutly sung, and the service proceeded, Mr. 
 Green, the minister of the parish, reading the prayers, 
 and Mr. Jenkins, the military chaplain at the camp, 
 the lessons. At the close of the second lesson, I said 
 that I should now begin a practice which I hoped to 
 continue, whenever I attended morning or evening 
 prayers among them, namely, that of explaining 
 some portion of the Word of God, which had been 
 read in their hearing, and that I should make this 
 an occasion for expressing more at length the feel- 
 ings with which I had received their address. The 
 Lesson was 2 Cor. iii., on which I commented : —
 
 42 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 (1.) On the proof of the faithfulness of our mi- 
 nistry, given by our flock, who should be an Epistle 
 of Christ, with His law of holiness and love written 
 on their hearts by His finger, as the effect of our 
 ministrations ; 
 
 (2.) On the sufficiency and strength of our mi- 
 nistry, as placed in God — all helping together 
 towards it, and drawing down His blessing by our 
 prayers, labours, and lives ; 
 
 (3.) On the glorious character of our ministry — 
 one of life and righteousness, not of death and con- 
 demnation ; 
 
 (4.) On the plainness of speech which should 
 mark our teaching — that we are not to put a 
 vail on our faces, but to shine forth as ministers 
 of a Gospel of reconciliation, and to tell out to all 
 men the love of God in Christ Jesus our Lord ; 
 
 (5.) On the end of our ministry — that we all, 
 beholding here on earth continually the reflection of 
 our Saviour's likeness, may grow more and more into 
 it, until we come to see His very Face in Heaven. 
 
 It was truly a most interesting service. The 
 place was crowded with worshippers of all classes — ■ 
 civilians and military. Churchmen, Dissenters, and 
 Roman-Catholics. 
 
 A storm of thunder, lightning, and rain this 
 evening. 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 8. — A thoroughly wet day, and 
 the streets of Maritzburg thick with cloggy mud. 
 This mud, I find, is the disagreeable of this place, as 
 the sand was of Durban. Saw Mr. Fearne, the clergv-
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 43 
 
 man of Richmond, and Mr. Methuen, the late clerical 
 head of our Zulu Missionary party, who found it 
 necessary, on his wife's account, to resign his post in 
 the Mission immediately on landing, and only waited 
 my arrival to follow Mrs. Methuen to England. I 
 was aware of this on the day I sailed : and, supposing 
 that the Mission-company would in the interim 
 have been settled upon the land, (a farm of 6,000 
 acres, which had been promised by the Govern- 
 ment for the purposes of the Mission,) and would 
 already, perhaps, have begun to draw around them 
 a small body of natives, I had intended to have 
 taken, as soon as possible, the place of Mr. Methuen, 
 until some efficient head covild be found in the 
 colony, or sent from England to relieve me. But 
 I now learned that the site, originally selected 
 for the Mission Farm, had been exchanged for 
 another, which was considered to have much greater 
 advantages in regard to situation, though its capa- 
 bilities for agriculture had not yet been duly ascer- 
 tained. I despatched, at once, our Mission-Farmer, 
 Mr. Balcomb, to make the necessary examination. 
 Nothing, of course, has yet been done by the Mis- 
 sionaries, except that Mr. Robertson, the catechist, 
 has acquired a considerable power of speaking in the 
 Zulu, language, and all have made more or less 
 acquaintance with the habits of the natives. 
 
 Thursday, Feb. 9. — The mud had disappeared 
 under the sun's influence, and the day was bright 
 and cheerful again. Received many visitors to-day, 
 and had much conversation with Mr, Shepstone on
 
 44 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Kafir afiairs. Arranged my plans for holding con- 
 firmations. 
 
 Friday, Feb. 10. — Rode out with Dr. Stanger, the 
 surveyor general, to inspect a site, about 2| miles 
 out of the city, where I might probably obtain from 
 the Government a grant of land, on which to build 
 an episcopal residence. Returned in time for even- 
 ing prayers, at the end of which I was told that a 
 poor Kafir had just been killed hard by, by the fall 
 of a block of stone upon him, which he was employed 
 in moving. I went down immediately with Mr. 
 Shepstone and Dr. Stanger, to see if we could render 
 any assistance in this case. We found the coi'pse 
 just extricated from under the heavy mass of stone. 
 One or two Kafirs were standing by with the deepest 
 sorrow expressed in their dark feces. One, it appeared, 
 was the brother of the dead man ; and, when Mr. 
 Shepstone spoke to him in his own tongue a few 
 words, the poor fellow heaved such a sad, deep sigh, 
 and showed such unmistakeable signs of his brotherly 
 afiectiou, that it drew the bond sensibly closer which 
 binds me to the race. 
 
 About dusk I was told that Ngoza was waiting to 
 pay his respects to me. I happened to be dressing 
 at the time, and was naturally unwilling to keep 
 any one waiting, so was making what haste I could 
 in donning my apparel. But I was told there was 
 no necessity whatever for this — that, in fact, it would 
 be quite the thing to keep him waiting for some time 
 — he would, as a matter of course, expect it — time 
 was of no consequence to him, and he would amuse
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 4-5 
 
 himself, someliow or other, in the court-yard until 
 I came out. In due time, I stepped out to him, 
 and there stood Ngoza, dressed neatly enough as an 
 European, with his attendant Kafir waiting beside 
 him. I said nothing (as I was advised) until he 
 spoke, and, in answer to a question from Mr. Green, 
 said that he was come to salute the inKos'. "Saku- 
 bona," I said ; and with all my heart would have 
 grasped the great black hand, and given it a good 
 brotherly shake : but my dignity would have been 
 essentially compromised in his own eyes by any such 
 proceeding. I confess it went very mxich against the 
 grain ; but the advice of all true Philo- Kafirs, Mr. 
 Shepstone among the rest, was to the same effect — 
 viz. that too ready familiarity, and especially shak- 
 ing hands with them upon slight acquaintance, was 
 not only not understood by them, but did great 
 mischief in making them pert and presuming. Ac- 
 cordingly, I looked aside with a grand indifference 
 as long as I could, (which was not very long,) and 
 talked to Mr. G., instead of paying attention to the 
 Kafir's presence. Mrs. Green then came at my request, 
 kindly to assist in communicating with him ; and 
 speaking in Dutch to her Kafir maid, who spoke in 
 Kafir to Ngoza, she told him from me, that " I was 
 glad to see him, and hoped to see him again at his 
 kraal, under the Table Mountain, in about a month's 
 time." — " He would be very glad indeed to see me," 
 — with some words of special compliment. I bade 
 him come for a blanket to-morrow, and then dis- 
 missed him with " hamha kaJde — walk pleasantly," to
 
 43 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 which he replied with " tsala halile — sit pleasantly ;" 
 and so our interview ended. 
 
 Ngoza is Mr. Shepstone's head man, and, though not 
 an hereditaiy chief, has acquired considerable power, 
 and is practically a chief of as much authority as any 
 in the district, which he owes partly to Mr. Shepstone's 
 patronage, partly to his own modest and amiable cha- 
 racter. There are, probably, (by reason of refugees 
 having flocked to him, who had left their own chiefs 
 behind,) moi'e pure Zulus under Ngoza than under any 
 other chief in Natal. He once asked Mr. Shepstone 
 if he might attend the Church Service, and did so for 
 the first time on Easter Day. He was much impressed 
 with the solemnity of the occasion, and with the 
 music and singing especially ; and, as he came out, he 
 observed to Mr. S. in Kafir, " You seem to have a 
 very select congregation here." " Select ! what do 
 you mean V " Oh, none of our friends in the town — 
 none of those who cheat the Kafii-s." He goes, T 
 am told, somewhere or othei', to a place of Christian 
 worship eveiy Sunday, when in Maritzburg, attended 
 by some ten or twelve of his followers : and from 
 all I have seen of him, and from conversations I 
 have had with him, I should hope that he is " not 
 far fi'om the kingdom of heaven." But alas ! there 
 is no room for him, or his kind, in the Government 
 schoolroom on Sundays ; not even for the white 
 population of the town. At present, the Kafirs 
 viust go, if they desire to worship the One True and 
 Living God on Sundays, to the Wesleyan or some 
 other service.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 47 
 
 Saturday, Feb. 11. — A close and sultry day; the 
 inhabitants complain of it, as more than usually 
 oppressive. Everywhere, however, I have the same 
 replies to my inquiries, " Plow do children thrive 
 here?" "Excellently well — of all ages." Made out 
 with Mr. Shepstone a route of visiting among the 
 Kafir chiefs. In the evening sent for Ngoza, and 
 gave him a purple blanket, with which he was greatly 
 delighted. After holding it up, and looking at it on 
 all sides, he gave it into the care of his attendant, 
 and then said something to me, I have no doubt, 
 highly complimentary, but out of which I could 
 only gather the word 'nKos'. However, I was told 
 he wanted to kiss my hand, the palm of which I 
 gi'aciously extended, and a hearty smack he gave it. 
 .Went up with Mr. Jenkins to the camp at Fort 
 Napier, to visit a sick soldier at his request. He had 
 been brought up, I found, as a Wesleyan, and re- 
 ceived attention also from Mr. Pearse, the Wesleyan 
 minister. He was now very iU — in fact, dying — of 
 dysentery, and truly thirsting, I believe, for the 
 living stream of God's Word. Poor fellow ! the tears 
 ran down his face while I talked to him. 
 
 The view of Maritzburg from Fort Napier is very 
 beautiful. The town is very regularly built, (as all 
 towns founded by Dutchmen are,) in the form of 
 a rectangle, and consists of eight wide streets, each 
 a mile and a half long, running parallel to one 
 another in one direction, crossgd at right angles by 
 seven others, each three quarters of a mile long. A 
 Norfolk person would form a very good idea of a
 
 48 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 street at Maritzburg, by imagining the street of 
 Long Stratton, with its white houses and shops — 
 some large and some small, /Some good and some 
 bad, interspersed with plots of garden ground, and 
 here and there with trees in front of them — con- 
 tinued in a perfectly straight line for a mile and a 
 half Only in Maritzburg the gardens are larger and 
 more numerous, sometimes green fields, of two or 
 three acres or even more, by which two adjacent 
 houses are separated. The trees also are more thickly 
 planted, and some of them, especially the willows, 
 are very fine in their growth, though only eight or 
 ten years old. And it must never be forgotten that, 
 on each side of each, of the eight streets, which run 
 the whole length of the city, there flows a clear, 
 ever-running stream of water. The hills around 
 Maritzburg are not picturesque, except where the 
 Zwart Kop rises on one side, at the distance of five 
 miles, and the remarkably fine Table Mountain on 
 another, at the distance of twelve miles. The heights 
 near the town were all green to the summit when I 
 first looked upon them ; though, I am told, they will 
 look black for a time, when the grass is burnt at the 
 end of the summer. (Six weeks later, before I left 
 Maritzburg, I saw the first fires of the season creep- 
 ing along the hills on one side of the town, and 
 making a beautiful illumination in the darkness of 
 the evening. When they are lit up in this way on 
 all sides, forming a circle of light around the city, 
 the appearance must be very striking.) In the 
 kloofs, or hollows, high up in these hills in one
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 49 
 
 direction, there were rich velvet-like patches obser- 
 vable of a deeper green, where the " bush " yet 
 lingers. These are not touched by the fire, which, 
 from the conformation of the ground, passes over 
 or around them. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 12. — A pleasant cool day — delight- 
 fully cool. Pi-eached twice in the government school- 
 room, morning and evening. Went to the camp in 
 the afternoon, with Mr. Jenkins, who is acting, at 
 present, as military chaplain to the troops in this 
 place. By so doing, however, I missed the inspection 
 of Miss Barter's Kafir class, (of which I had not 
 been, told,) aijd Mr. Shepstone's address to them. 
 This lady, who has gone out to Natal with the desire 
 to devote herself eventually to missionary labours 
 among the Zulus, has already acquired their lan- 
 guage, and is able to converse with them freely. On 
 Sunday afternoons she has a number of young men 
 and women, engaged as servants in the town, to 
 whom she gives catechetical instruction in a very 
 interesting and effective manner. The Kafirs in- 
 variably give some name of their own to any one 
 who is brought into some special relation with them, 
 as master, teacher, or superior in any way; and 
 these names are often very ingeniously formed, to 
 express some peculiarity in their personal appearance, 
 manners, character, or office. Thus, a tall, slight, 
 English lad received the name of umKonto, or 
 " Javelin :" an English lady is very likely to be dis- 
 tinguished by the title of " the great white elephant," 
 — the greatness, however, it may be as well to add, 
 
 E
 
 50 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 having reference to her dignlti/, not her dimensions. 
 Miss Barter once rejoiced in this appellation ; but it 
 has latterly been exchanged by them for one far more 
 appropriate, namely, No-miisa, " Mother of Mercy." 
 Monday, Feb. 13. — The weather still cool and re- 
 freshing. Rode with Dr. Stanger to visit the Mission 
 station of Mr. Allison at Edendale, about five miles 
 from Maritzburg. We got out of the town, and 
 down into the valley of the Little Bushman's River, 
 where we found the road in some places broken and 
 very bad, with deep quags of mud here and there in 
 the middle of it, in some of which a horse would 
 have sunk down to his middle. However, it was 
 easy enough to avoid these in daylight by attention 
 to the patii. By and by, we crossed the river, the 
 first I have had to ford in South Africa; and at 
 length reached the cultivated lands of the Mission. 
 On our way we passed a field, where three Kafirs 
 were ploughing : one led the horse, another walked 
 behind and whipped it, the third very cleverly 
 turned up a regular furrow. There was no white 
 man by ; the work was going on entirely by them- 
 selves. Large crops of mealies (Indian corn) waved 
 arovind us, as we drew near to the station. Natives of 
 all ages were sitting in groups, as we passed along, 
 at the doors of their little houses, or hids, — for their 
 habitations at present scarcely desei've a better name, 
 as their removal to this site is recent, and they have 
 been too much occupied in paying for the land they 
 have purchased, to have bestowed much labour 
 upon the improvement of their abodes. At the
 
 '%■
 
 TEN" WEEKS IN NATAL. 51 
 
 door of the Mission-house we received a hearty- 
 welcome from the excellent missionary and his 
 wife. 
 
 Mr. Allison was formerly stationed in the Be- 
 chuana country, and afterwai-ds at Indaleni, in this 
 colony, in connexion with the Wesleyans. Having 
 separated from that body for some reason, he has 
 purchased this station, comprising 6,000 acres of 
 good land, very pleasantly situated in the bosom of 
 some fine hills, which also belong to it; and here he 
 devotes himself to improve the condition of the 500 
 or 600 Kafirs who constitute his people. The 
 peculiarity of Mr. Allison's position is this, that 
 the land is not bought for himself, but for his 
 natives, and paid for by their labour. It cost 
 1,300?. to purchase it, for which Mr. Allison be- 
 came responsible. The property was then divided 
 into 100 shares at IGl. each, namely, 10/. for a sub- 
 urban lot of about an acre, and 61. for a town lot of 
 about a rood, (there being, of course, both cultivable 
 pieces of ground,) with as much of Kafir ground 
 for mealies as they please, and the right of grazing 
 over the unenclosed portion. Almost all the pur- 
 chasers have now paid for their shares, and some of 
 them have bought several. There were about 420 
 Christians on the estate, (many of whom had been 
 for years with Mr. Allison, before he removed to this 
 station some three years ago, to which fact it is 
 probable that the remarkable success of his experi- 
 ment is in some measure owing,) and 160 heathens, 
 who were allowed to purchase allotments, and live
 
 52 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 araoug the rest, but were required, of course, to 
 abandon their grosser native habits. 
 
 We had first some mteresting conversation upon 
 Missionary matters, in the course of which Mr, 
 Alhson warned me not to bring out any Mission- 
 aries, who were not of the right stamp — elevated, 
 self-denying, self-sacrificing men ; and especially to 
 look to their wives, for these often ruined a Mission 
 by their tempers and animosities, breaking up the 
 harmonious action of their husbands. " In short," 
 said he, " this you will find to be the great difl&- 
 culty, that the Kafirs will pay honour to one only 
 of the Missionary body; all the others they will 
 regard as subordinate. With the Kafir, every one 
 is either inKose (chief) or inJa (dog) ; and many, who 
 think they ought all to be placed on terms of per- 
 fect equality, cannot brook that others should receive 
 this distinguishing honoui", rather than themselves or 
 their husbands." 
 
 Mr. Allison then took us to look at a new water- 
 mill, which he had j ust erected, for grinding mealie- 
 corn into meal. Of this he was deservedly proud : 
 he had erected it entirely by the help of the Kafirs 
 on the premises, except that an Englishman cut the 
 stones for him. It was now wholly managed by two 
 Kafirs, one of whom, Daniel, was a cheerful, intelli- 
 gent-looking fellow, of (perhaps) twenty-five years of 
 age, who had been with Mr. Allison twelve years, 
 and whose first attempts at hooh-Jceeping I inspected, 
 commencing at Feb. 1, 1854. There were entries 
 of the sale of meal, — Qd. to Sally, Is. to Johannes,
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 53 
 
 &c., and vevy neat they were. Daniel was dressed 
 like any decent Englishman, in trousers, jacket, and 
 good black hat, and, as Mr. Allison assured me, he 
 "had the feelings of an English gentleman, and 
 during twelv^e years had never been known to 
 commit an immoral action." The other miller, 
 Kombas, was still a heathen, but a well-conducted, 
 hopeful, person. In fact, " his conduct," Mr. A. said, 
 " was exemplary." This man had a great genius for 
 mechanics, had made a wooden gunlock, and was 
 particularly fond of drawing. I carried away with 
 me sevei'al of his drawings, and among them one 
 sheet of paper, which he had filled with figures of 
 common things around him, expressly for my own 
 use, and at my own desire, while I was talking with 
 his w7iFuncU.se (teacher). They were rude enough, 
 and somewhat deficient in perspective, but still very 
 ingenious, and showed decided talent. Kombas had 
 a very conspicuous twist in his neck, which he got 
 while an infant, when his kraal was attacked and 
 destroyed (most probably by Chaka), and ho was 
 rolled into a mat by his mother, and laid under a 
 rock. In this position a poor woman of his tribe, 
 mortally wounded, fell upon him, and so caused 
 the injury. Mr. A. told me that, "having been 
 among many tribes of South Africa, he had never 
 seen a finer race than those of Natal." He said, 
 also, " They were very affectionate." The men 
 of the same kraal are called "brothers." If the 
 brother of a Kafir servant comes to his master's 
 house, the latter will be sure to divide his food and
 
 54: TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 comforts with him. But a gentleman of Maritzburg 
 told me, that he would often leave his house with a 
 single Kafir in it, and everything perfectly exposed : 
 not a single thing of his would be taken. The plate 
 would be open ; the meat and other scoff (food), which 
 the Kafirs are so fond of, would be within his reach; 
 his brothers, two or three, would be sure to come to 
 chat and to sing with him ; but nothing whatever 
 would be touched without the master's leave. 
 
 We now went to the chapel, the bell having been 
 rung to call the people in for service. A most gi'a- 
 tifyiug sight it was, to walk up through the large 
 assemblage of black people, all seated on the ground 
 — the front rows consisting of well-dressed men, all 
 Christians, and the back of heathens, but still in 
 decent costume. There were present also, I re- 
 marked, many young mothers with their infont 
 children, who formed a very interesting portion of 
 the assembly. When all was hushed, Mr. A. gave 
 out a hymn in Kafir, — one, I believe, of a Wesleyan 
 collection. It was sung to the tune of Shirland, 
 and very harmoniously. The sound of the women's 
 voices, as they rose with a swell in one part of it, 
 was very touching, and is still lingering in my 
 memory. After this, Mr. A. called upon one of his 
 front men, (who have all, I believe, been with him 
 for many years,) to pray, which he did very earnestly, 
 I was told afterwards, that he prayed especially for 
 me, and for a blessing on my ministry, having been 
 informed by Mi\ A. upon what mission I was come. 
 Then, very unexpectedly to myself, I was requested
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 55 
 
 to address them, which I did in Eughsh, while 
 Mr. A. interpreted ; and a most attentive congre- 
 gation I had, while for the first time I preached in 
 many heathen ears, as well as in those of my black 
 brethren in the faith, the unsearchable riches of 
 Christ. I spoke for, perhaps, ten minutes; but 
 they told me afterwards that I " had only put a 
 piece of sugar-stick into their mouths, and taken it 
 away again ;" and that " the length of my speech did 
 not at all correspond to the length of my journey." 
 Our next scene was a private interview with the 
 twelve chief men of the station, who came into the 
 dining-room and seated themselves, some on chairs, 
 some on the floor, ready to converse on any subject 
 whatever. They formed a very interesting group, 
 with much variety of intelligence in their black 
 faces. One, who sat at their head, was certainly a 
 very plain man in countenance, but there was an 
 earnest seriousness in his face, which drew at once 
 your attention, and assured your affection, to him. 
 This man, Johannes, was (Mr. A. told me) " a very 
 wise man. Whenever he spoke every mouth was 
 closed, and his judgment, which was never given 
 hastily, was sure to guide the rest." He had been 
 one of Dingaan's soldiers, and described to me 
 the bloody proceedings of that king. Another 
 was a young chief, a very handsome, noble-looking 
 fellow. A third was a half-caste, of slave origin, with 
 a face that might have been easily mistaken for a 
 white man's. This was a thoroughly good man, who 
 had a cottage in the town, where he sheltered for a
 
 56 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 time auy miserables of his own race lie met with, and 
 tried to teach them the Truths of God. A fourth, 
 named Job, Mr. A. called his "philosopher." He 
 "had deep thoughts upon many subjects," and made 
 some curious remarks in the course of our conver- 
 sation. Having observed the time and labour 
 spent in constructing the water-mill, Job said, 
 " Well ! I always thought that Noah was very slow 
 in his building of the Ark, but now I understand it 
 all." Talking of Kombas' skill in drawing, Job 
 thought that everybody could be taught to draw. 
 He was told that there was skill in different matters 
 given by the Great God to different persons, and 
 that not everybody had ability for drawing. " Were 
 Mrs. Allison's Kafir children taught to draw V 
 "No." "What!" he said, "taught so much, and 
 not taught to draw 1 " He compared the condition 
 of himself and his people, in their heathen state, to 
 animalcules in a pond at tlie top of a hill. " There," 
 said he, " the creatures are for a while, frisking about 
 and enjoying themselves; then the pond dries up, 
 and they are gone ! " 
 
 After a while, we got into pretty general talk on 
 Missionary matters— the Kafirs always observing 
 the admirable law of never speaking two at a time. 
 I found, as I had been led to expect by Mr. Allison, 
 that his people were unanimous in their disapproval 
 of the word for God, now commonly in use among 
 the Missionaries — uTixo, — which, they said, "had 
 no meaning whatever for the Kafirs, They used it 
 because they found it in their Bibles ; but it was not
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 57 
 
 a -word of their language at all." " The proper word 
 for God was ITongo, which meant with them a Power 
 of Universal Influence — a Being under whom all 
 around were placed." " For instance," said one, 
 "if we were going on an expedition, we should, in 
 ordinary circumstances, have trusted to our house- 
 hold gods, which we call amciHlose ; but if some 
 unusual danger of the desert threatened us, or if a 
 violent storm terrified us, we should throw these 
 away, and trvist in iTongo. All the Kafir tribes, 
 whether on the frontier or to the north, would im- 
 derstand iTongo j but the latter would have no idea 
 whatever of what was meant by uTixo, though the 
 former are now used to it through the Missionaries." 
 I may here mention, before I pass on, that, having 
 received this important information, I resolved to 
 direct my inquiries especially to this point, whenever 
 oppoi'tunity should be afibrded me, in my intercourse 
 with the Kafirs of the district. The conclusion 
 to which I have come, (and for which the Journal, 
 as it proceeds, will sufficiently supply the reasons,) is, 
 that these Kafirs were undoubtedly right in con- 
 demning the word uTixo, as one utterly without 
 meaning in the Kafir tongue, besides containing an 
 odious click, indicated by the letter x, which is not 
 to be pronounced as the English x, but by thrusting 
 the tongue against the teeth at the side of the 
 mouth, and suddenly withdrawing it. The origin 
 of this word is very uncertain ; but it is said to be 
 the name of a species of mantis, which is called " the 
 Hottentot's god." At all events, it would seem that
 
 58 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Dr. Vanderkemp, who first laboured among the 
 Hottentots some sixty years ago, adopted this word 
 in his teaching as the name of God ; and the Wes- 
 leyan and other Missionaries have carried it from 
 west to east, first among the British Kafirs, and now 
 among the tribes of Natal. Meanwhile, they have 
 scarcely noticed at all two names, which the Kafirs 
 have of their own for the Deity, and which in their 
 language have most expressive meanings. Here, how- 
 ever, as my further inquiries convinced me, Mr. A.'s 
 Kafirs were in error. It is true that all the Kafirs 
 of the Natal district believe in iTongo (plural, 
 amaTongo) and amaHlose ; and it is very likely 
 that the former may be regarded as having the 
 universal tribal influence they spoke of, in distinc- 
 tion from the limited family/ influence of the latter. 
 (It did not occur to me to press this inquiry.) But 
 these woi"ds are certainly used by them only with 
 reference to the spirits of the dead — not to the Great 
 Being, whom they regard as their Creator ; and the 
 difference in question may arise from iTongo being- 
 used for the spirit of a dead chief, and amaHlose 
 only of the departed parents (or friends) of any par- 
 ticular household. These spirits, as I have already 
 mentioned, are believed to visit them at times in the 
 form of snakes, for the purpose of giving counsel 
 or warning. Hence they are very careful about 
 killing snakes. On one occasion, Capt. Struben 
 told me, he was present in a hut, belonging to a 
 Kafir woman of rank, the wife of a chief, when 
 a large snake made its way in at the door, and
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 59 
 
 slid away under some clothing. His companion 
 wished to kill it ; but the magistrate., being better 
 acquainted with the superstitions of the people, was 
 afraid of angering the lady of the hut, and asked 
 her permission t<5 destroy it. " yes !" she said, 
 " kill it, if you like ; I am not expecting txnj friends 
 to-day." 
 
 The true words for the Deity in the Kafir lan- 
 guage — at least in all this part of Africa — are iim- 
 Kulunkulu, literally. The Great-Great One = The 
 Almighty, and umVelinqange — literally, The First 
 Comer-Out = The First Essence, or, rather, Ex- 
 istence. It will be seen, as my narrative proceeds, 
 that in every instance, whether in the heathen kraal, 
 amidst the wildest of savages, or in the Missionary 
 station, in the presence of the teachei', who was him- 
 self surprised at the result, my inquiries led me in- 
 variably to the same point — namely, that these words 
 have been familiar to them from their childhood, as 
 names for Him ' who created them and all things,' 
 and as traces of a religious knowledge, which, how- 
 ever originally derived, their ancestors possessed long 
 before the arrival of Missionaries, and have handed 
 down to the present generation. The amount of un- 
 necessary hindrance to the reception of the Gospel, 
 which must be caused by forcing upon them an 
 entirely new name for the Supreme Being, without 
 distinctly connecting it with their own two names, 
 will be obvious to any thoughtful mind. It must 
 make a kind of chasm between their old life and the 
 new one to which they are invited ; and it must be
 
 GO TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 long before they can become able, as it were, to 
 bridge over the gulf, and make out for themselves, 
 that this strange name, which is preached to them, 
 is only the white man's name for the same Great 
 Being, of whom they have heard their fathers and 
 mothers speak in their childhood. This evil, it will 
 be seen, has been felt both by the American and 
 Norwegian Missionaries. Mr. Allison objects to the 
 name uTixo, and adopts uYehova, the Hebrew name 
 for God. I cannot account for his people not even 
 naming to me the otlier two names, umKuluukulu 
 and umVeliuqange, which, in every other instance, 
 were given to me at once by the natives. They 
 might have done so, if I had asked for them ; but, 
 at the time of my visit to them, I was not myself 
 alive to the importance of the question. (The q, in 
 the latter of the two words above given, is also a click, 
 to be pronounced by putting the tongue to the roof 
 of the mouth, and suddenly withdi'awing it, pro- 
 ducing a sound similar to that we use in speaking 
 to a horse. A third is denoted by c, and is pro- 
 duced by thrusting the tongue to the root of the 
 upper fore-teeth, and suddenly withdrawing it, by 
 which a sound is occasioned like that which we 
 make to express dissatisfaction or regret for anything 
 having happened. In the Zulu-'K^^v tongue there 
 are only these three clicks, and these do not occur fre- 
 quently : in the ^rt<M- Kafir tongue there are many 
 more varieties of these disagreeable sounds, all of 
 which they have borrowed from the Hottentots, 
 with whom, and still more with the Bushmen, in
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. Gl 
 
 their natural state, every word almost contains a 
 click. The Hottentots, however, as now found within 
 the Cape Colony, speak almost universally the Dutch 
 language.) 
 
 They spoke of ivitclicraft — that " for one suspected 
 of it there was no rest, no escape. The curse would 
 follow him when he leaves his tribe — and not only 
 him, but every member of his family, — till all were 
 exterminated." It should be observed, however, 
 that the English word ivitclicraft very imperfectly 
 expresses the offence of the umTakati, which word 
 is used to denote generally a criminal of the grosser 
 kind — more especially one, who is supposed to have 
 attempted or actvially caused the death of another, 
 oftentimes his chief, by poisoning. It appears 
 certain that the Kafirs are acquainted with the 
 powers of many noxious herbs, of which Europeans 
 know nothing : and, although a cruel chief may 
 often abuse the skiU of the inYanga (medicine-man, 
 or witch-doctor) of the tribe, to point out some 
 unfortunate being as the cause of sickness or death 
 in his own' family, or among his people, in order that 
 he may " eat him up " and take possession of his 
 cattle, yet it can hardly be doubted, from all that 
 I have heard, that the j)ersons thus accused are not 
 unfrequently really guilty of some grave offence or 
 other, and deservedly punished. 
 
 Witchcraft and polygamy, they said, were the two 
 great obstacles to the spread of the Gospel among 
 them ; and both must be done away. " But, in 
 order to commence a mission, do not promulgate
 
 02 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 laws about such things, but begin to teach. For 
 a missionary must be hke an experienced hunter. 
 He must not show himself, and frighten the game 
 away : but he must get around them, and so catch 
 them." 
 
 At last I asked them, " What message should I 
 take to England for them V One of them said, 
 " Tell the good people of England that we have 
 innumerable friends, wandering like lost sheep, and 
 that we shall be very grateful, if they will send 
 herders and watchers to save them." Hereupon 
 Johannes gravely shook his head, and intimated that 
 this message did not quite satisfy him. All evidently 
 deferred to him, while, in a very dignified manner, 
 he delivered himself of the following : 
 
 " When you come to your friends at home, please 
 to convey our salutations to the righteous people 
 there. We praise them for their act in sending a 
 person out to this country to teach our people. 
 While yet we were in darkness, many prayed for us. 
 God made a passage over the sea. They stretched 
 forth their hand to us, and we have received blessings 
 through them. Jehovah heard them, and on account 
 of their prayers there are now those in this land 
 who know his name. Now, to-day, let them not be 
 weary. There are more sheep yet : let them not tire ; 
 let them put up more prayers, more and mightier 
 than the former, for the multitude still left." 
 
 It was now tea-time, and all were dismissed, 
 except Johannes and another, who were kept to talk 
 with us. Mrs. A. gave a cup of tea to each of them,
 
 TEN WKEKS IN NATAL. 63 
 
 which they took as poHtely as possible ; but it was 
 only ou very rare occasions, I found, that they were 
 thus indulged. One of them was then asked to tell 
 me the story of a Kafir woman, as he had heard it 
 from her own lips, when he met her upon some 
 occasion near the Ilovu, where she was now residing. 
 But the reader must imagine for himself the gestures 
 and animation with which it was told. " In one of 
 the' Zulu marauding expeditions, the soldiers seized 
 this woman at one of the villages, and one of them 
 forced her to follow him as his baggage-carrier. 
 They went on to a large kraal, where the army 
 spent the night ; and she, being sent to the stream 
 to fetch water for her master, took the opportunity 
 to run away, and hid herself in the 'bush,' and for 
 the present escaped her persecutors. The Zulu 
 ai-my, however, divided into sections, scouring the 
 country, and ravaging in all directions ; and by-and- 
 bye they came upon her in the ' bush,' laid hold 
 upon her, and recognised hei\ ' Is not this the 
 same V said one. So they took her, and made her 
 go on witli them ; and her former master said to 
 her, ' I have a great mind to stab you to-day, because 
 you ran away from me last night ;' and he did give 
 her a stab; but his spear slid along her shouldei'- 
 blade behind her back, and stuck in the ground. 
 Then another man made her carry his bundle ; and 
 he, too, sent her at night to get water for him. In 
 the place whei-e they now were there was no ' bush :' 
 but she crept into an ant-eater's hole. Being, 
 however, rather a stout person, she could not get
 
 64 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 into it neatly: her feet stuck out behind. In this 
 position she was when the day broke. The army 
 was soon in motion, and the woman detected. They 
 came, and cudgelled her legs, until she came out ; 
 and then they threatened to finish her. But a 
 third man said, ' No ! she shall carry my baggage.' 
 He sent her also for water at night ; and a third 
 time she ran away ; and now she was sure that, if 
 she were again caught, her life would certainly be 
 sacrificed. She started off, and ran on, until she 
 reached the place from which they originally took 
 her ; and here she lived with her friends in the 
 kraal. But the army came, surrounded and de- 
 stroyed it. She crept into a hollow tree in the 
 centre of the town, where she was nearly suffocated 
 by the smoke of the burning huts. Moreover, the 
 stench of the burning bodies of the townspeople was 
 insufferable, and she could not any longer endure it. 
 Seeing, however, in what direction the thick volume 
 of smoke rolled itself, and knowing that the Zulu 
 warriors would open a space in their ranks to let it 
 pass, (for the smell of a burning corpse is peculiarly 
 offensive to a Kafir,) she ci'awled along the line of 
 smoke, and so managed to escape the notice of the 
 enemy, and to get outside their line. Still the 
 different divisions of the army were spread over all 
 the country. It was impossible to get clear away 
 from them. She climbed up into a very high tree : 
 but even there some of them caught a glimpse of her 
 upon one of its highest branches. Several assegais 
 were thrown at her, and one passed over her loins.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. G5 
 
 However, she escaped through all, aud at length 
 came under the teaching of the Missionaries at the 
 Indalcni station. She said to Mr. A.'s yoimg men, 
 that now she knew there must be a God, who had 
 protected her, and that her story was a proof of au 
 over-ruling Providence." 
 
 After tea I had iu the children. There were 
 seventy-two in all, forty of them iu the room, five 
 belonging to Johannes, who governs them admirably. 
 They were fine childi*en, with well-formed, intelligent 
 foreheads — those from the coast of a lighter colour, 
 those from the interior of a deeper black. From 
 the back of one little maid peeped out two sharp 
 bright eyes, which were those, I found, of her infant 
 sister, suspended over her shoulders in a bag. I 
 wrote on their slates for several the text, " Suffer 
 little children, &c. ;" aud very anxious they were to 
 get the copy set to them. After \vi'iting a dozen copies 
 at least, I summoned the others to read in the New 
 Testament, — in which they each read a verse, very 
 fairly. But I knew that, under the peculiar circum- 
 stances of the case, (Mr. A.'s mind during the last 
 two years and a half having been jminfully occupied 
 with money-matters, as he had to become responsible 
 for so large a sum, (1,300^.,) for the purchase of the 
 land,) not much attention had been paid of late to 
 the educational proceedings of the Mission ; and I 
 did not question them much upon what they read. 
 In fact, they were reading English, which they only 
 understood imperfectly, and I did not understand 
 Kafir at all. Their hemming was capital : since 
 
 F
 
 66 TEN "WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 December they had hemmed the borders of fifty-one 
 dresses. These children -n-ere under the instruction 
 of a young lady, a niece of the Missionaries : and 
 they did such credit to her teaching, that I Avas well 
 pleased to leave with her a small donation for the 
 purchase of books and slates, of which they stood 
 much in need, out of a sum placed at my disposal by 
 a friend, without restriction to C/iwrc/i purposes. At 
 last, towards evening, I broke away from this in- 
 teresting spot, and rode back to Maritzburg. I may 
 add, that a very respectable trader of the town told 
 me, that he would at any time take a note-of-haud of 
 one of Mr. Allison's Kafirs for 100^., when he would 
 decline many a white man's for 11. They would 
 come, perhaps, twelve at a time, and buy goods to 
 that amount, and one would give a note for it. 
 
 Mr. Green gave me another illusti-ation of Kafir 
 honesty. A strange Kafir once came to him, and 
 asked him to lend him 11. for some purpose of his 
 tribe, (probably to pay their taxes,) promising to 
 woi'k it out for him. The money was lent; the man 
 came to work, but soon fell ill. A medical man was 
 called to him: but he did not like him, and, at 
 length, went away — likely, as Mr. Green thought, 
 to die before he got many miles from the town. 
 Mr. Green knew nothing about him, or the place 
 wiiere he lived : but, after some time, he heard that 
 he was veiy sick at his kraal. However, it seems, 
 he recovered ; and, full twelve months after his first 
 coming, he presented himself again for employment. 
 Mr. Green was not then in want of a servant : but
 
 TEN "WEEKS IN NATAL. G7 
 
 the man said " he must go somewhere and work, in 
 order to pay his debt." He did so, and in a month 
 or two he came once more, and faithfully paid his \l. 
 
 Tuesday — Fridaij, Feb. 14 — 17. — Occupied in 
 making calls from house to house, and in inspecting 
 a site about 3g miles from town, where I might pro- 
 bably obtain from the Government a grant of unoccu- 
 pied land, upon which to build an episcopal resi- 
 dence. 
 
 Saturday, Feb. 18. — This evening I attended a 
 meeting of the church people in Maritzburg, to con- 
 sider the measures to be taken for completing the 
 church. I found that some progress had been 
 made in the building, which was being very sub- 
 stantially erected with freestone of good quality, 
 and in excellent style, after designs by Mrs. Gray, 
 and under the able superintendence of the Rev. J. 
 Green. But the woi-k had not yet surmounted the 
 windows, and was advancing very slowly indeed, for 
 want of funds. About 1,250^. had been already 
 spent upon it, of which more than 900^. had been 
 contributed in Maritzburg itself, with its small popu- 
 lation of 1,800 — a fact sufficient to evidence the 
 earnest goodwill of the people, more especially at a 
 time, when the whole colony has been suffering great 
 depression in mercantile affairs, from w^hich it is 
 only just recovering. It was estimated that, for the 
 completion of the present design, and fitting up the 
 building for public worship, an additional sum of 
 2,000^. would be required : and towards this I had,, 
 before leaving England, obtained a grant of 500^. from 
 f2
 
 68 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, with 
 the condition, that it should be met by 500^. more, 
 subscribed in the colony. I was satisfied, from the 
 heartiness expressed at this meeting, that there would 
 be no doubt about this condition being complied 
 with, on the part of the people of Maritzburg. But I 
 was grieved to be obliged to tell them, that the plan of 
 their church was too small, to allow of my claiming on 
 their behalf the grant of the Society, which was 
 made upon the understanding that this was to be a 
 more capacious building — lai-ge enough for the pur- 
 poses of a cathedral church, or, at all events, for 
 the necessities of the ordinary population of the 
 town. It appeared, however, that the design only 
 contemplated room for 270 persons — excluding, 
 therefore, of necessity the great body of the white 
 inhabitants, however much disposed they might be 
 to join in the services of the Church of England, 
 and conform or return to her discipline ; and equally 
 excluding the possibility of a few poor Kafirs crowd- 
 ing in even at the door, to witness the ceremonials, 
 and, it may be, to be influenced by the solemnities, 
 of her devout and holy worship. This feeling, I 
 found, was shared generally by those present. They 
 had begun their small building at a time when they 
 had no resident bishop, nor any expectation of having 
 one. They had desired to erect it, not, indeed, with 
 extravagant display, or costly expenditure upon un- 
 necessary decorations, but yet of a character corre- 
 sponding, in some measure, to its position, as the 
 principal chvirch of the whole district ; and, in point
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. G9 
 
 of fact, there is not one in all South Africa, -which, 
 for correctness and chaste simplicity of style, \n\l 
 surpass the little church of Maritzburg. But, on 
 account of its small dimensions, as at present de- 
 signed, I was obliged to recommend that some plan 
 should be considered for enlarging it ; and it was 
 decided, on the suggestion of Mr. Green, that this 
 could be best accomplished, by regarding the present 
 building as a chancel, and adding to it a nave and 
 two small transepts, which might be built of durable 
 materials, but in as plain and inexpensive a style as 
 possible, consistent with the harmony of the whole 
 edifice. It was estimated that tlie chancel might be 
 completed at once for public worship, and the rest 
 of the plan carried out in the course of the next two 
 or three years, at a total expense of 4,000Z. ; towards 
 ■which sum additional subsci'iptions of the inhabitants 
 might be reckoned upon to the amount of about 
 1,000Z., making altogether nearly 2,000^. from a 
 small, and comparatively poor, but willing popula- 
 tion. For the remainder I must appeal on their 
 behalf to the charity of the Society for Promoting 
 Christian Knowledge, and of those wealthier mem- 
 bers of the Church in England, who may consider 
 the facts of the case to be such, as to make it deserv- 
 ing of their sympathy and assistance. 
 
 Our Mission farmer, Mr. Balcomb, came up from 
 our new ground to-day, to report that the land was 
 quite unsuitable for agricultural purposes. With 
 the advice of Dr. Stanger, I have determined to 
 apply for a grant of land, distant about 3-i miles
 
 70 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 from Maritzburg, contiguous to the spot which we 
 saw on Thursday and approved of. It happens that 
 the Crown has here a plot of 8,500 acres unoc- 
 cupied. I intend to apply for 6,000 acres of this 
 for the Mission farm, in accordance with the direc- 
 tion of His Grace the Duke of Newcastle, that such 
 a grant should be made wherever we selected the 
 land, upon property of the Crown not otherwise 
 occupied. The remaining 2,500 acres I am ad- 
 vised to ask for, as an endowment of the Bishopric, 
 which in the course of years may become valuable, 
 though at present the gift would only entail expense 
 in bringing it into cultivation. 
 
 On many accounts — I may say, on every account 
 — this plan (of building the Mission premises, and 
 carrying on the Mission work, in close connexion 
 with the Bishop's own residence) would be most 
 desirable. He would thus be in daily communica- 
 tion with the Mission, superintending its move- 
 ments, supplying its deficiencies, correcting its mis- 
 takes, stimulating its industry, sharing its labours, 
 and realizing its difficulties. He would thus become 
 acquainted — himself and his family — with the lan- 
 guage and habits of the natives, and be able to dis- 
 charge in an infinitely more effective manner the 
 special Missionary work, with a view to which, un- 
 doubtedly, this Bishopric has been founded, than he 
 could do if the Mission were planted at a distance of 
 thirty or forty miles away from Maritzburg. No 
 doubt, in such a case, he might visit the Mission 
 from time to time; but a visit would be useless,
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL* 71 
 
 unless prolonged, at least, for two months ; and even 
 that would very imperfectly satisfy the wants of the 
 case ; and, meanwhile, he would be altogether neg- 
 lecting the white population. Now he would bo 
 able, if necessary, to be daily in Maritzburg, and yet 
 daily also at home in the Mission. Imagine, too, the 
 helplessness and solitariness of our Missionaries, at 
 their very first arrival, fresh from England, strangers 
 and inexperienced, set down, with their wives and 
 children, far away from all civilized life, in the midst 
 of the savage wilderness of heathenism ! How much 
 time would, of necessity, be wasted before they could 
 feel at home, and be able calmly to set about their 
 work ! And then, instead of being regarded with 
 respect by the natives with whom they came in con- 
 tact, it is certain that, during the first few months, 
 or even years, of their residence among them, and 
 before they could have mastered their language suf- 
 ficiently to be able to converse with them freely in 
 their own tongue, they would be in danger of being 
 met, by these rude but quick-witted heathens, with 
 actual ridicule and contempt. I remember to have 
 seen an indication of this one day in a heathen 
 kraal, where a number of young women were sitting 
 together, and making remarks on passing events, 
 which, through the interpretation of a friend, who 
 was standing by me, and had the most perfect know- 
 ledge of the Kafir language, I was enabled to under- 
 stand and appreciate. An Englishman, who had 
 come on some business of Government, but whose 
 acquaintance with then* language was very imper-
 
 72 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 feet, had just left the party, and was replaced by 
 my friend, who began immediately to converse with 
 them. Whereupon, one of the young ladies was heard 
 to say — •" This is something like a man. AVhat's the 
 use of sending us such a thing as that ?" 
 
 On the other hand, how different will be the posi- 
 tion of our Missionaries, when, upon their first ar- 
 rival, they will be received at such an Institution 
 as this, which we shall hope to found upon the hill 
 of Maritzburg ! Here they will learn experience 
 from those, who have been already for some time 
 engaged in the work, and may enter immediately 
 upon the labours of the place. They will find the 
 Bishop, with his family, at hand, to welcome, to 
 counsel, and to comfort them with spiritual advice 
 and daily ministrations of God's AVord. Here, too, 
 they will be able to " consider one another, and to 
 provoke unto love and good works" — " not forsaking 
 the assembling of themselves together," for daily wor- 
 ship and the communion of saints — instead of being 
 scattered over the land, a few solitary labourers, 
 some in one spot, some in another, without efficient 
 government, without the power of mutual coopera- 
 tion, and the strength and support of united action. 
 It appears to me, from all I can learn, that this is 
 the great defect of the Missionary system, adopted iu 
 South Africa by the various bodies of Christians; 
 namely, that they do not sufficiently concentrate 
 their forces, but seek to cover a large extent of ter- 
 ritory, l^y planting a number of separate stations, 
 each of which is meant to influence its own little
 
 TEN WEEKS IN KATAL. io 
 
 circle of heathens. But, from the causes above men- 
 tioned, I am convinced that much of their strength 
 is wasted; and I cannot but believe, that greater 
 results may be expected, and with a far less expen- 
 diture of means, from establishing, in the first in- 
 stance, 07ie strong central Institution, of the kind 
 above described, under the immediate eye of the 
 Bishop himself. In this I hope we shall be enabled 
 to practise the younger natives in trades of various 
 kinds, to teach them to cultivate the soil, and learn 
 the value of land, and adopt the habits of civilized 
 life. We shall also make it our endeavour to train 
 servants, male and female, for domestic purposes: 
 and, probably, many Kafir servants, who have out- 
 of-door employments in the neighbouring city, would 
 bo disposed to take up their abode on the Mission 
 property; and, while they go in and out for their 
 daily occupations, will leave their wives and children 
 to our care. We should have also the advantage, (to 
 which Mr. Allison's Mission owes so much of its suc- 
 cess, in a temporal point of view,) of the Maritzburg 
 market for oar produce of all kinds, and of the 
 Maritzburg shops for our purchases. Again, the 
 Mission, being within the reach of an houi-'s ride 
 from the town, woidd become, it may be hoped, an 
 object of special interest to its European inhabitants. 
 They would thus become themselves more deeply 
 affected with the sense of their duty towards these 
 poor heathen, whom the providence of God has com- 
 mitted to the charge of this Christian Church and 
 nation, to be taught His Truth, and trained for His
 
 74 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Heavenly Kingdom. The Government, too, vfould be 
 able to watch more closely and to encourage its pro- 
 ceedings ; and we should have the benefit of constant 
 advice and assistance from Mr. Shepstone, or other 
 residents in Maritzburg, well acquainted with the 
 Kafirs. We shotild be within reach of medical advice 
 from the town. But, indeed, it is part of our plan 
 to provide a hospital on the station, (at present there 
 is none in the whole colony,) as well as a chapel and 
 schools, with a native village, and plots of ground 
 attached, for the use of single couples who conform 
 to our rules, homes for the Mission families, and 
 other buildings, including a common hall or dining- 
 room for general purposes. To these must be added 
 an Orphans' Home, in which destitute children, of 
 which there are several in the colony, may be taken 
 under the fostering care of the Church, instead of 
 being left, as now, to the charity of strangers, who, 
 however kindly disposed, are too poor themselves to 
 dispense with the services of those they undertake 
 to rear, and would, in fact, be commonly unable, 
 even if willing, to allow their early days to be de- 
 voted to education. Besides a Grammar School in 
 the town, there should be also on the Station a 
 Boarding School for young ladies, both of which in 
 the end would, no doubt, be self-supporting, though 
 they would require at first some aid from the funds 
 of the Bishop. But the benefit in every way, that 
 would be conferred upon the whole diocese by the 
 establishment of such schools, would be immense. 
 And, lastly, here too would be our Theological Col-
 
 TEN WEEKS IX XATAL. 75 
 
 lege, in -wliicli special training may Le given to those, 
 whether native youths or English, who may desire 
 to devote tliemselves to the ministry of God's Word, 
 And all these different works may go on, as I tnist, 
 harmoniously and happily together. (The Govern- 
 ment has since granted this tract of land, for the 
 purposes above described.) 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 19. — At 9 a.m. attended Divine Ser- 
 vice with the troops in the Government schoolroom, 
 and preached. At 11, attended Morning Service, 
 and preached. At 3, baptized the first-born of our 
 mission family, the young babe of Mx. and Mrs. 
 Barker, and spoke a few words to Miss Barter's Kafir 
 class, and to the children of the school. Preached 
 again at the Evening Service. Rain had fallen, and 
 more was coming ; so the congregationwas diminished, 
 — and no wonder. When we came out, the streets 
 were over the ankle deep in thick mud, and the walk- 
 ing was most disagreeable. This will probably now 
 soon be remedied, since Maritzburg has become a bo- 
 rough, by the exertions of the municipal authorities. 
 
 Monday, Feb. 20.' — At 11 a.m. I started, with 
 Mr. Shepstone and Mr. Barter, for a visit to the 
 north of the colony, and the principal heathen trii)es 
 in those parts. Mr. Shepstone was attended by 
 uNgota, or Ngoza, as he is generally called by English- 
 men, dropping the prefix, which is no part of the name, 
 though the laws of Kafir etymology require that pro- 
 per names shall take usually the pi'efix tun, tin, or t^ 
 The Lieut. -Governor, Mr. Pine, kindly rode with 
 me up the long hill of five miles, over which the
 
 / TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 road passes towards the Klip River division. From 
 the top of this hill we got a very pretty view of the 
 distant city, with its dark-green foliage of trees, in 
 the midst of the lighter green of the grass-covered 
 hills, here and there only marked by a patch of 
 " bush." The absence of trees aromid Maritzbui'g 
 is said to be caused by the constant burning of the 
 gi'ass at the eud of the summer, by which it has 
 become much finer and richer around the town ; but 
 the trees are gone, except in hollows and other spots, 
 where, from the form of the hills, the fire has passed 
 over them. We rode on, with nothing particular to 
 be observed, except that the scenery Avas still fine in 
 all directions, with distant ridges of remarkable out- 
 line ; two of which, peaked mountains, — one on either 
 side of us, — are objects, I was told, of superstitious 
 dread to the Kafirs, who never point to them. 
 
 In about two hours we arrived at the banks of 
 the Umgeni. The river is generally strong at this 
 ford ; and some feet below the drift is a magnificent 
 fall, over which parties, in attempting to cross, have 
 beau carried away and killed. There is here the 
 grave of a boy, the son of a man who once lived at 
 the ford, and kept a boat for crossing it. A tra- 
 veller came one day, and went over in the boat, and 
 the father ordered the lad to ride his horse through 
 the stream. The horse refused, and the boy was 
 afraid ; but the father insisted. The animal struggled 
 through to the other side ; but the boy was washed off 
 his back, and carried down, and perished in the waters. 
 At the time we crossed, the water was not high, and
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. / i 
 
 we got through very comfortably. Meanwhile, for 
 the last hour, thick black clouds had been gathering 
 all around, and evidently a great commotion of the 
 elements was at hand. "We cantered on by a difficult 
 bit of road, and came right in front of the waterfall, 
 279 feet high, where the whole stream of the Um- 
 geni falls down the perpendicular precipice. We 
 had little_^time, however, for admiring it ; for the 
 tempest was ready to burst upon us, and the clouds 
 were fearfully dark and threatening. "We hastened 
 on with all speed to a farm-house nigh by; and 
 hardly had we reached it, and with hurried hands 
 oflf-saddled our horses, knee-haltered, and turned 
 them to graze, than the first drops fell, and instantly 
 the storm burst upon us, with violent gusts of wind, 
 hailstones like pigeons' eggs, rain, thunder, and 
 lightning, in terrible commixture, for about twenty 
 minutes. During the summer season the neigh- 
 bourhood of Maritzburg is, I believe, exposed to 
 thunder-storms much more than that of Durban, 
 and every house in the town is provided -with a 
 conductor. Yet, after all, this storm was nothing 
 like the one, which devastated the eastern counties of 
 England, and which I witnessed at Cambridge, in the 
 autumn of 1843. We heard afterwards that the 
 full force of it broke over the City. "The river 
 rose fourteen feet in half an hour. Long-]\Iarket- 
 street was running like a river; the waves came 
 rolling along it. Such rain and hail has never been 
 seen before in Maritzburg." Bad, therefore, as our 
 Btorm was, Ave had escaped the worst of it, and
 
 78 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 happily suffered nothing from this. We met with 
 a most friendly reception, and hospitable enter- 
 tainment, from Mr. and Mrs. Archbell, at whose 
 form we had stopped, and from whom I learned that 
 there were sixteen heads of families in the neigh' 
 hourhood, who would willingly, it was thought, con- 
 tribute to build a small chapel, if a clergyman could 
 be supplied to minister among them. (The Wes- 
 leyans, I believe, have since made arrangements for 
 building a chapel here.) Mr. A. told me that he 
 had sown 1^ muid of wheat in fourteen acres of nem 
 land, and the produ.ce had been fifty muids. 
 
 After about two hours' delay we remounted and 
 proceeded, our party having been augmented by the 
 arrival of a petty chief, umQundani, but called, in 
 common parlance, by a Dutch name, Jantjee, who 
 had expressed a very earnest wish to join the expe- 
 dition, and had received Mr. S.'s permission, from 
 his knowledge of his very useful qualities, when 
 kept under the eye and control of his master ; 
 otherwise his zeal was sometimes excessive, and his 
 temper and discretion not to be relied on. I had 
 hired I^Tgoza's wagon, (for he had come to possess 
 one — a step, this, in civilization,) to carry provi- 
 sions, food, and clothing for my friend and myself, 
 and supply us with shelter and a bed at night, when 
 circumstances might render it desirable to have 
 recourse to it. But the attendance of Ngoza and 
 Jantjee, as well as that of all the followers, who con- 
 tinued to swell our train as we advanced, was volun- 
 tary and unpaid. They were satisfied with the honour
 
 .TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 79 
 
 of the service itself; and Jantjee had gone so far 
 in his enthusiasm, that, not having been able to 
 borrow a horse for the occasion, he had actually 
 bought one for 161.; and here he now was, having 
 come on after us with as much speed as possible, 
 and overtaken us at the farm. We found him a 
 veiy active, and, indeed, very valuable servant, 
 riding before us to warn ns of holes, over which 
 his horse twice fell with him, — crossing the rivers 
 in advance, and sounding their depths for us, to find 
 the most fordable places, — clearing away obstructions, 
 and discharging a number of other duties of the most 
 useful kind with zeal and dexterity. After all, how- 
 ever, he was a wild fellow, and not one who could be 
 safely trusted, like Ngoza, beyond the influence of the 
 Inkosi Inkulu — the Great Chief — Mr. Shepstone. 
 
 Our route now lay over a rich grass country, and 
 amidst magnificent scenery — only wearying the eye 
 by the very sameness of its grandeur and beauty. 
 We once saw a few small bucks of some kind or 
 other; but this was the only game we met with. 
 And, indeed, it was rather painful to pass over such 
 a vast extent of promising country, quite empty of 
 inhabitants. Assuredly, this land only wants an ad- 
 dition of some 10,000 English people of the right 
 stamp, to be one of the finest and most productive 
 in the whole world. Two classes, or rather three, are 
 specially needed at this time. (1.) Young gentlemoi 
 of good character, and energy, and ability, with good 
 wives, and some 2,000^. in their pockets. These 
 would become at once large landed proprietors here,
 
 80 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 (a fiirm of C,000 acres of good land may be had at 
 present for 400^.,) and would be able to make ex- 
 cellent provision for their families around them. 
 (2.) Small farmers, with 500^. or 600^, These would, 
 at first, rent the farms of others, and use their capital 
 to stock them ; but would ere long be able to buy 
 for themselves. (3.) Honest, industrious labourers, 
 who would find immediately abundant employment, 
 and large wages for themselves and their families ; 
 and these, too, would become independent farmers 
 and landholders, before ten years had passed. Now 
 that we shall have, I trust, the due provision of 
 churches and schools, there is every inducement for 
 emigration to a country like this, possessing such 
 stores of hidden, unknown wealth, above and under 
 ground, and blessed with a healthy climate and plen- 
 tiful supplies of water. Capitalists who would join 
 together to search for minerals, of which there must 
 be large stores in the district — (not, be it hoped, of 
 gold,) — or who would try to bring to perfection the 
 growth of sugar, cotton, indigo, arrowroot, coffee, 
 and the many other valuable articles of commerce, 
 which the soil and variety of climate and tempera- 
 ture would produce, would, I am sure, reap in the 
 end abundant returns for their investments. Coal 
 of the finest qviality is found in abundance, but too 
 far as yet from the coast, to make it worth while to 
 bring it down in large quantities, with a very expen- 
 sive land-carriage. Copper has lately been disco- 
 vered ; and, within the last few weeks, since I left 
 the colony, large stores of limestone, which had
 
 TEN "«-EEKS IN NATAL. 81 
 
 hitherto been a great desideratum, have yielded 
 themselves to the very first investigations of Dr. 
 Sutherland, who had just been appointed by the 
 Government, to travel through the colony, and re- 
 port upon its miueralogical quaUties. 
 
 From the singular variations of temperature in 
 different parts of the country, which rises in four 
 steps or terraces, as it were, of about twenty miles 
 each in width, running pai'allel to the coast-line, and 
 each characterised by its own peculiar climate and 
 capabilities, there is no doubt that, within this one 
 small colony, may be raised in perfection any kind of 
 product whatever, of the torrid or temperate zones, 
 from the pine-apple and sugar-cane of the Durban or 
 coast district to the wheat-crops and sheep-pastures 
 of the Kahlamba. There is never frost at Durban, 
 and seldom snoiv at Maritzburg. At this latter 
 place, however, the rose-hedge in the garden may 
 be seen, in the early morning, hoar with rime in the 
 winter season, when the nights are always cold; 
 but the day-temperature is delicious, and so con- 
 tinues, with hardly a day of rain, for the whole 
 five months of winter. Further inland, the winter 
 is more sharp, and approaches quite in severity at 
 times to a good old English winter. Many sheep 
 and some Kafirs were killed by the cold last year; 
 and early in the season the Kahlamba Mountains 
 are covered with snow. In summer, the heat is 
 certainly oppressive at Durban ; but this, I imagine, 
 arises in some measure from the unfortunate site 
 selected for the town, which does not appear to be 
 
 6
 
 82 TEN ■WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 salubi'ious. The average temperature is, no doubt, 
 higher at Maritzburg than it is in England; but, 
 except Avhen the wind blows from the N.W., from 
 the sun- scorched centre of Africa, it is never op- 
 pressive, and the air is deliciously cool when the 
 breeze comes from the southward. At all events, 
 I can say, that, during the ten weeks I spent in the 
 colony, in the veiy height of the summer, I never 
 spared myself, nor felt the need of doing so, riding 
 long distances daily, and in the very heat of the daj^ 
 as well as sleeping in the open air at night, withoTit 
 any of tlie evil consequences I should have feared 
 in England. I must except the last week of my 
 sojourn, when, perhaps, over-exertion, and the sum- 
 mer heat of Durban, combined to lay me aside from 
 active work for a day or two. I may add, that, for 
 any families, in which consumption may be dreaded, 
 or may be actually disclosed in some one or other of 
 its members, a speedy removal to Natal would, under 
 God, I believe, be a most beneficial measure. I have 
 had brought directly before me — and can vouch for 
 them — more than one instance of complete restora- 
 tion, by such a step, from attacks of this malady, 
 which in England would soon have proved fatal. 
 To return, however, from this long digression. 
 
 We cantered pleasantly on — the only check to 
 our feet being, as before, the fear of holes, left by 
 the ant-bear in its voracious efforts to get at the 
 rich contents of the numerous ant-hills which 
 covered the ground. There is- a particular fern, 
 which almost invariably marks the presence of such
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 83 
 
 a hole, growing just upon its edge. It is curious, 
 and not easy to be accounted for, that it seems to 
 grow hardly anywhere else : but, wherever you see 
 it, there you learu instinctively to turn aside your 
 horse, and will find a hole close beside it. Its root 
 is said to be an infallible vermifuge : and, doubtless, 
 many valuable remedies are yet to be discovered 
 among the unknown growths of the fields and forests 
 of Natal. We had to get through one or two ugly 
 '•' spruits," in crossing which, however, we ran 
 the danger, not of being drowned, but of being 
 plunged, if we stepped into a treacherous hole, head 
 over heels, in mud — which would have disfigured 
 the person of our Kafir fore-rider much less than 
 our own. The evening threatened rain, and we were 
 too far from our original destination to hope to 
 reach it (after our two hours' loss of time) before 
 nightfall, especially as the Karkloof had to be 
 crossed, and we heard its waters were high. So at 
 Mr. Barter's advice, we turned aside to the house 
 of another settler — Mr. Parkinson, a Wesleyan from 
 Yorkshire, at whose hospitable door we dismounted, 
 just as the darkness had set in. And, in fact, 
 the last ten minutes' ride had been disagreeable, 
 from our having had to pass several awkward places, 
 and small spruits, in the gloom. Our kind host 
 and his wife most heartily welcomed and refreshed 
 us; and, after Evening Prayer, with an exposition 
 of Scripture, as usual, I retired to a bed, which was 
 prepared for me — the only one of our party, who was 
 so far able to be accommodated — in a spare room. 
 G 2
 
 84 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 The tipper pai-t of one side of it -was open to the 
 kitchen ; and I had the satisfaction of hearing our 
 Kafirs, who spent the night there, talk themselves 
 to sleep. I should have enjoyed the opportunity, if 
 I had but understood their language sufficiently. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 21. — At breakfast, Mr. P. men- 
 tioned that, last September, snow fell in this neigh- 
 bourhood 18 inches deep, and lay a foot deep for 
 nearly a week. Indeed, every one speaks of the cold 
 winter nights, as naturally as we do in England: but 
 then every one also speaks here of the ordinary win- 
 ter-weather and day-temperature as inost delightful. 
 ]\Ir. S. and I started, in advance of our sable friends, 
 about 9 P.M., and got up to our horses' middles in 
 a few minutes, in crossing a little brook near the 
 house — one of those we passed in the gloom of last 
 evening, when it was, as usual, insignificant, but 
 was now swollen with the rain, which had fallen 
 heavily during the night. We expected serious 
 difiiculty in crossing the Karkloof, the passage of 
 which is sometimes dangerous, and in attempting it, 
 in fact, two Kafirs had lately been drowned. How- 
 ever, we managed to ford it Avith more ease than we 
 anticipated ; and rode on to the foot of the Karkloof 
 heights, having a fine view of the waterfall, 800 feet 
 high, where the stream descends from the summit, 
 and then goes creeping along in a very tortuous 
 course in the valley, across which we had come. At 
 the foot of the heights we came upon a kraal, out of 
 which Mr. S. siimmoned the head-man, to show him 
 the way up the steep. And then came the scramble
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 85 
 
 and the struggle, up this lofty aud difficult hill, 
 which was covered thick with shrubs and trees, with 
 occasional patches of bare grass, to the summit. 
 My brave horse did his part well : but, at last, I 
 was obliged to dismount and lead him, the path 
 being almost perpendicular at times, with huge 
 blocks of stone to climb, and all slippery with the 
 rain of yesterday. What a collection of raz'e beau- 
 ties might a good botanist make here ! But I had 
 no time for such pursuits : and turned away imwil- 
 lingly from many a lovely flower, which has never 
 yet graced the garden or greenhouse of England. 
 It must have taken us, I think, an hour and a half 
 of stiff exertion to climb this steep : and then Mr. 
 S. dismissed our faithful guide, who had toiled up 
 this difficult path, leaving his own labours, under 
 the broiling heat of the mid-day sun, with the sim- 
 ple praise — " He had done his duty well, and he 
 (Mr. S.) would remember it." This, he said, woidd 
 abundantly satisfy him : it was all he would desire. 
 We rode on now for some hours, off-saddling at 
 a brook, where I read a chapter of St. Matthew 
 in Kafir — then on again, through a yet grander 
 country than any I had before seen, since I left 
 Maritzburg, stopping at two farms, one of a Dutch 
 Boer, the other of an Englishman, Mr. Vertuc, 
 who, with his young wife, was still living imder a 
 sod-hut, where we were refreshed with the usual 
 kindly cup of coffee: but there was every sign 
 in their appearance of cheerful contentment and 
 persevering industry, to which latter characteristic
 
 8G TEN -WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 the admii'able piece of sod-fencing, by which their 
 ground was enclosed for cultivation, bore a most de- 
 cisive witness. We travelled on till about 6 p.m., 
 when we at length came down a long descent to 
 Lotter's farm, on the banks of the Mooi River. We 
 found the Dutchman out; but his good wife received 
 us very hospitably — placing before us a bowl of 
 nectarines, which we found very refreshing after our 
 long ride, and then coffee and tea. The latter was 
 of a kind manufactured expressly for the Cape 
 Colony, and called Caper tea; but to an English 
 taste it is not very agreeable. 
 
 Here we expected to find our wagon, which had 
 been sent forward on Saturday, with express orders 
 not to travel on Sunday, but to proceed quietly 
 along the main road, and reach this spot on Tues- 
 day evening. It was, as I have mentioned, Ngoza's 
 wagon, and driven by his people : but it contained 
 all our apparatus — beds, bedding, tents, portman- 
 teau, carpet-bags, cooking utensils, supplies of tea, 
 coffee, sugar, &c., crockery, and glass : and, with 
 this at our command, we should have been per- 
 fectly independent of any disagreeables or difficul- 
 ties that might arise from w^ant of a kind host or 
 convenient resting-place. But, alas ! misfortunes 
 had befallen it, and had not come alone. Ngoza 
 pronounced that " it was a bad thing, he found, to 
 travel on Sundays." First, having started very late 
 on Saturday, they did proceed, contrary to express 
 orders, on the Sunday; and a Kafir was jerked off 
 the shaft, and had his leg broken. Then on
 
 TEN "WKEKS IN NATAL, 87 
 
 Monday they picked np a saddle in the road, and 
 before long passed a wagon outspanned, to -which, no 
 doubt, it belonged. They did not think proper to 
 inqiiire as to this, but travelled forward with their 
 booty. Presently, they were overtaken by a Kafir, 
 sent forward by the party beliind them, an English 
 trader from Durban with his subordinate, who by 
 this time had discovered their loss. He sprang up on 
 the shafts, looked in, saw the saddle, and demanded 
 it ; and our people refused to give it up, till the 
 master himself appeared to claim it, and to give 
 them a shilling for findiug and taking care of it. 
 Upon this the man returned, and very soon one of 
 the white men rode iip in great indignation, drove 
 our Kafirs away, and carried off the saddle,, having 
 first turned loose the oxen, and taken out the 
 linchpins, to prevent the wagon moving till his 
 superior had arrived. Hereupon the wrath of our 
 men was excited, and their courage seems to have 
 in some measure returned ; for they pui'sued the 
 Englishman, and managed to take away the saddle, 
 which they threatened to keep until the linchpins 
 should be restored. By this time it would seem 
 both the Englishmen were at hand ; and the master 
 looked on, while the servant not only took away 
 the saddle, (which, of course, he was perfectly justi- 
 fied in doing.) but, on pretence of searching for it 
 and a leathern thong, which they had likewise 
 missed, threw out all our goods into the road, 
 smashing our plates, a bottle of wine, &c., and 
 disordering everything we had. After which, still
 
 88 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 pretending that he was only making a search for liis 
 stolen property, he seized an axe which he found 
 in the wagon, and chopped two or three holes in 
 the side of it, cutting all the reims, or leathern 
 thongs, by which the seats were supported. 
 
 In a country, where a man's wagon is considered 
 as sacred as his house in England, a greater 
 outrage of the kind could scarcely have been 
 committed. Heavy rain fell immediately after, by 
 which our goods, exposed as they were, were tho- 
 roughly wetted : and thus a serious interruption was 
 made to our carefully considered plans, for perform- 
 ing a long and difficult journey, every daily stage of 
 which had been laid down deliberately beforehand. 
 We could not have ventured to proceed without our 
 wagon ; and, but that we had fortunately allowed 
 ourselves an extra day this week to be spent at 
 Doornkop — a part of our plan we were now obliged 
 to give up — we must have been subjected to the 
 great inconvenience of being a day too late for all 
 our appointments. In this country, a wagon stored 
 with the most valuable goods, or packed, as ours, 
 for an important expedition, must continually be 
 entrusted to the charge of mere Kafirs. And, if 
 every fault of theirs were to be accounted a suffi- 
 cient reason for wantonly destroying their masters' 
 property, there would be an end to all security for 
 travellers along the high-roads of Natal. It is 
 certainly somewhat strange that the only act of 
 violence, which came under my own personal no- 
 tice, while I remained in the colony, was committed
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 89 
 
 not by the fierce, iiututored, heathen savage, but 
 by educated Christian Englishmen. I need hardly 
 add, tliat it was sufficiently condemned by the mass 
 of their fellow-countrymen, and, I hope, upon re- 
 flection, by the parties themselves. 
 
 While I was in the colony, however, two cases of 
 murder occurred, each attended with remarkable 
 circumstances. In the first instance, an English 
 master was killed by his Kafir servant. I believe, 
 the white man had struck the Kafir for some fault, 
 overnight, a violent blow upon the eye, and in the 
 morning had again severely scolded him. Enraged 
 at this treatment, in a moody spirit of revenge, the 
 Kafir had rushed away to his kraal, a distance of 
 three miles, brought back his assegai, and stabbed 
 his master to the heart. He then sat down upon a 
 stone, and quietly waited, till his "brother" Kafirs 
 went, and brought their common chief, who seized 
 the criminal, and delivered him i;p into the hands of 
 the law. He was tried and condemned for the 
 offence, and, long before this, no doubt, has been 
 executed. In the other case, a Kafir servant was 
 killed by his English master. The white man, it 
 appeared, was, though a married man, a dissolute 
 person, who had been to the city on business, and 
 had there indulged in acts of vice, which were 
 reported by his Kafir servant to his fellows on his 
 return home, and by them carried to the ears of his 
 mistress. The Englishman, annoyed at this, had 
 first violently abused the Kafir ; and then, when the 
 poor fellow was walking away, without answering- a
 
 90 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 word, he went into his house, brought out his gun, 
 deliberately took aim, and shot him dead upon the 
 spot. After this, the white man mounted quietly his 
 horse, and rode away; and, though the officers of 
 justice were despatched immediately in search of 
 him, he was actually screened, for two or three 
 weeks, from their inquiries, by others of his country- 
 men, wood-cutters, as bad as himself, and ultimately 
 succeeded in riding beyond the bounds of the colony. 
 and escaping altogether — at least, for the present — 
 from punishment. 
 
 Tidings of the disasters which had befolleu our 
 wagon, rsached us at Lotter's on Tuesday evening, 
 soon after we arrived, — the messengers having gone 
 to the places, where we had originally intended 
 to have stopped yesterday and to-day, and having 
 had to follow up our track. We gave orders 
 to Jantjee to start as soon as the moon should 
 rise, and fetch up the wagon, which was still lying, 
 where the Englishmen had moved it, off the main 
 road upon a heap of stones, some twenty miles 
 or more from our present resting-place. We had 
 to remain here the greater part of the next day, 
 in the course of which the Boer himself came 
 home, and very pleasantly greeted his visitors. 
 Mr. S. was as fluent with the Dutch as with the 
 Kafir language, and was, therefore, the medium of 
 communication between us. I gave my time, how- 
 ever, chiefly to my Kafir Gospel ; and spent some 
 portion of the day in discussing with Mr. S. a trans- 
 lation, which he had made, of the Lord's Prayer, the
 
 TEN "WEEKS IN NATAL. 91 
 
 Creed, and the lOOth Psalm. The Dutcli people 
 had a splendid gai-den, with magnificent hedges of 
 pomegranates, laden heavily with fruit. 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 22. — At about 3 p.m. we descried 
 our unfortunate wagon, descending one of the dis- 
 tant hills in view from ]\Ir. Lotter's. It seemed only 
 about two miles off; but, in this country of gigantic 
 dimensions and clear air, distances are very decep- 
 tive, and Mr. S. announced too truly that it was 
 still five or six miles off. A weaiy while it was in 
 coming up to the house, full an hour and a half; 
 and, when it came, it was very plain how hard the 
 poor beasts had been driven. Jantjee was in full 
 force upon the front, brandishing his enormous whip ; 
 and though, as he told us, he had not gone to sleep 
 the previous night, fearing that he should oversleep 
 the moonrising, but had " kept himself awake by 
 helping to eat the goat," (which we had given to his 
 companions, and of which nothing but skin and 
 bones was left between them,) he seemed as fresh 
 as ever, and bustled actively about to get our pre- 
 parations ready for starting. But all idea of time 
 seems to be lost sight of in these matters. Very 
 slow and deliberate were all the movements of the 
 party, in spite of this activity. In the first place, 
 the wagon itself had to be inspected, and talked over 
 at great length. There were the marks, sure enough, 
 of the Englishman's axe, where he had slashed the 
 side and cut the reims in the interior ; so that every- 
 thing was in confusion inside the vehicle, and the 
 benches, instead of being supported by the thongs,
 
 92 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 were all pressing upon my portmanteau, and squeez- 
 ing its contents unmercifully. Next followed an 
 investigation into the said contents, and those of 
 our other various packages. Mr. S. looked after 
 the crockery and eatables, and found a good deal of 
 the former broken to pieces. I opened one of my 
 bags, and first disturbed some score or so of cock- 
 roaches of all sizes, which served as an indication 
 that it had passed the night inside a Kafir hut. It 
 had been sent on by hand on Monday morning, 
 after the wagon had left Maritzburg, as it contained 
 my robes, which I had worn on the Sunday, and 
 was taking with me for the Service at Ladismith. 
 The bearer had, no doubt, taken refuge from the rain 
 upon his way, in some kraal of his brethren ; but 
 had not been able to reach it, until the rain had 
 penetrated the bag, and thoroughly soaked and dis- 
 coloured the vestments. These, and many other 
 articles, had to be taken out, and spread upon the 
 grass to dry. 
 
 But, at length, our necessary preparations were 
 completed ; and, taking leave of our kind Dutch 
 friends, who would have had us stay the night with 
 them, as it was now so late, we started at about five 
 o'clock for Pakade's country. The Chief had been 
 sending for us to Letter's, both yesterday and to- 
 day, a party of his Kafirs, to meet and escort us ; 
 and we did not wish to disappoint him, and resolved 
 to push on that evening as far as we could, though 
 with little hope of reaching his kraal. He is, in 
 fact, awaiting oiir arrival, in order to celebrate the
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 93 
 
 Feast of First-fruits. This, as now observed, is a 
 purely heathen ceremony, but has undoubtedly a 
 right meaning at the bottom ; and, instead of setting 
 our face against all these practices, our wisdom will 
 surely be, in accordance with the sage advice of 
 Gregory the Great, to adopt such as are really 
 grounded on truth, and restore them to their right 
 use, or rather raise them in the end still higher, by 
 making them Christian celebrations. This Feast of 
 First-fruits is their most remarkable annual festival, 
 and it is a royal prerogative to allow of its being 
 kept. Pakade, therefore, has been obliged to send 
 messengers to Maritzburg for leave to celebrate it. 
 It would surely be a step in the right direction, if we 
 could get such a Chief as this to allow of the Lord's 
 Prayer being said by a Christian Missionary before 
 the feast begins, after some explanation had been 
 given to the assembled multitude of the general 
 meaning of such an address to the Supreme Being; 
 while the Chief himself and his counsellors, (with 
 whom a longer and closer conversation might be held,) 
 might be told the special meaning of each particular 
 sentence of the prayer. They would thus be taught 
 gradually to connect the idea of thankfulness and 
 reference to Him, who is the Giver of all goodness, 
 with their duty and habit of coming together to 
 celebrate the fresh returns of His bounty. And, iu 
 utter despair of being able, for many years to come, 
 to reach in detail the immense body of natives, who 
 now inhabit this land, so as to supply each particular 
 kraal with the direct and constant teaching of a
 
 94 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Ckristian Missionary, I cannot but hope that even 
 in this way we may, with the blessing of God, be 
 enabled to make some breach into the stronghold of 
 their heathenism, — more especially if, as I think may 
 be practicable, I make a point of going the circuit 
 annually among the heathen, and officiating myself 
 at this Feast of First-fruits. Mr. S. thinks it 
 would be most desirable, for civil purposes, that a 
 commissioner should be present at the ceremony, 
 and give to it the sanction of the crown of England. 
 Witli him I might make my visitation of the 
 heathen, as well as of the scattered Christians, of 
 the diocese. 
 
 Our train now consisted of Ngoza and Jantjee on 
 horseback, and a follower of the former leading my 
 other horse, with about twenty runners, who carried, 
 one a teakettle, another tliree plates, a third a basket 
 of tea, coffee, sugar, &c. ; and these latter kept pace 
 witli us all along, owing to the broken character of 
 the country, vapon which we were now entering, and 
 which obliged us to leave our wagon behind us, and 
 order it to go round another way, and meet us again 
 at an appointed spot a few days hence. We first 
 rode briskly over the grass of the valley, (watching 
 for holes, as x;sual,) till we reached the bank of the 
 Mooi (or Beautiful) River, whose name, however, is 
 derived from its character much higher up the 
 stream, where the Dutch first fell in with it. Here 
 it was only a muddy current, thirty yards wide, flow- 
 ing rapidly through a plain, which had no objects of 
 interest about it, except the mountain heights by
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 95 
 
 which it was girdled. The water came up to and above 
 the belHes of our horses, and was running strong. 
 Our good beasts, however, bore us bravely through. 
 (I may here mention that I had bought one horse for 
 this expedition, a very serviceable but not first-rate 
 animal, for 221. 10s., and hired another; but I had 
 no idea that the work I should give them would be 
 so violent as I foiuid it.) The distance of Pakade's 
 place from Lotter's was said to be only fourteen or 
 fifteen miles ; and in England we should have thought 
 nothing of such a ride, with nearly two hours of day- 
 light before us. Here, however, it was very different. 
 For the first few miles, we were able to canter along 
 rapidly ; but then the Kafir path we followed be- 
 came suddenly one of extraordinary difficulty. The 
 surface of the ground, though presenting generally 
 a green appearance, indicative of great fertility, was 
 yet covered with large blocks of stone ; and over 
 these, up and down long steep ascents, for half a mile 
 together at intervals, our poor beasts had to carry us. 
 I know nothing to compare with this part of the 
 country, but the Valley of Rocks in Devonshire, 
 
 Hitherto we had found stones in abundance, but 
 no trees — only grass. But now, after a refreshing 
 canter of half a mile, we came into a district thickly 
 studded with the mimosa and other thorns, properly 
 so called, and for length and strength such as nothing 
 I have seen in England could equal. Every now 
 and then, you would find yourself caught, or your 
 coat rent, unless it were of such a texture as to 
 let the thorns slip along it, and refuse their em-
 
 96 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 brace ; and ^''ou were in imminent danger of tearing 
 your hands and face, unless you kept a strict look- 
 out. A thick cold mist came on at this point, and 
 made our progress more slow and difficult; and, as 
 the rocky path descended a long stiff hill covered 
 with thorns, we were obliged to dismount, and I 
 gave my horse to a Kafir to lead, while I scrambled 
 down by myself. After getting one or two tumbles, 
 my shortness of sight combining with the inci'easing 
 dai"kness, in not allowing me to provide against the 
 abruptness of the pi'^'th? ^ good-natured Kafir ran 
 forward, and seized my wrist, and so guided me on 
 and supported me, until another mile or so brought 
 lis to the first of Pakade's kraals, at which we had 
 resolved to pass the night. Some time before we 
 reached it, we had heard the voice of our " forerun- 
 ner," announcing our approach, or rather Mr. Shep- 
 stone's, to the inhabitants of the kraal, — " The inKos' 
 is coming — he is coming — he is coming — come out, 
 and see." So we found the people prepared for our 
 arrival, and were immediately greeted and welcomed 
 by the head-man — who had rather an anxious, care- 
 worn countenance, as if he were somewhat over- 
 burdened with the dignity of receiving his unexpected 
 guests. "What should he do for US'?" "Get ready 
 a hut immediately," was the reply. So to work they 
 went, cleansing out a hut for us. Mr. S. inquired " if 
 the floor was sound?" " yes ! but there are mil- 
 lions of cockroaches." There was this consolation, 
 that where there are cockroaches, there are generally 
 no fleas. But there was room for some apprehension
 
 TEX ^VEEKS IX XATAL. 97 
 
 upon tliis point also, when, hearing, as I thouglit, 
 the plaintive cry of a young baby, I turned, and 
 found it to be a young Jcid, which was being removed 
 from the hut, to make way for us. In due time, 
 however, the goats and calves were all expelled, 
 with their human companions, and the preparations 
 were pronounced complete ; except that there was no 
 time for the usual smearing of the floor with cow- 
 dung, which is a great specific against vermin. So 
 we went down on our knees, and groped our way, 
 one after another, through the small hole, which 
 sei'ved for entrance into this Kafir bee-hive. 
 
 The interior of the hut, as I found by the 
 light of a candle, was clean enough, except that it 
 truly swarmed with cockroaches. On the floor 
 were spread two clean Kafir rush-mats, on which we 
 laid ourselves, and let the creatures run over us in 
 all directions. There was no help for it. Cock- 
 roaches are not really dirty creatures ; and, besides, 
 these were not of that formidable size, that you 
 need dread the possibility (as I have been told you 
 may in India) of losing a finger-nail or an eye-brow, 
 by their voracious operations, in the course of a 
 night. I tried to persuade myself that they were 
 not more disagreeable than flies, and so made my- 
 self content with their presence. Some eight or ten 
 Kafirs now came in, and seated themselves respect- 
 fully around the circular framework of the hut. One 
 of them was the head-man, who made me a present 
 of a cow, which, to the disappointment, I believe, of 
 my troop of followers, but greatly to his own satis- 
 
 H
 
 98 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 
 
 faction, I returned to him the next morning. Then 
 we had a cup of coffee, which Mr. S. prepared ; and, 
 during this repast, a very interesting conversation 
 took place with the natives around xis, mostly our 
 own Kafirs, who, with the exception of the cook, 
 were all heathens. It began with Mr. S. telling 
 them from me, that " I had been sent by the Queen 
 of England, who loved her black people as well as her 
 white, to see in what condition they were — whether 
 they, and their young children, and young men, 
 were taught what they ought to know, to make them 
 wise, and good, and happy; and that I was soon 
 going back to England, and should tell to the people 
 there all that I had seen among them." Then, after 
 they had digested this, and seemed much pleased 
 with it, I asked Mr. S. to ',talk to them about the 
 Loi'd's Prayer, which, I said, " the Queen of England 
 and all good English people used every day." He 
 read it to them, sentence by sentence, from our 
 translation ; and it was very interesting to observe 
 with what fixed attention they listened to it, and what 
 rational remarks they made upon it. Those, which 
 struck me most, I put down in pencil as they were 
 littered, and here reproduce them in the rough dis- 
 jointed form in which they appear in my note-book. 
 
 Kgoza was asked, " Did he know the Prayer, be- 
 ginning, Baha wetu, dr., Our Father, &c. ?" "Yes !" 
 " Did he know Who it was that was there spoken of V 
 " We did not know, until the white people told us." 
 " Did he know anything about icniKubinhdu be- 
 fore ?' " Yes ; they all knew that everything came
 
 TEN' Ys'EEKS IN NATAL. 9D 
 
 from Him." " Say that I am sent to tell them more 
 about Him." 
 
 They said that "amaTong-o and amaHlose were cer- 
 tainly not the same as uniKulunkulu : for they could 
 not be till man Avas created ; in short, they were de- 
 parted spirits,, but umKulunkulu made all things." 
 
 " We've missed the truth by very little, after all : 
 for we pray to unseen spirits, and you to one zmseeii 
 Being." 
 
 Ma-la-hhihaniswe iGama laho — Separated (i. e. 
 hallowed) he Thy Name. " They quite understood 
 this; they never used the name umKulunkulu with- 
 out respect." 
 
 " The profession of Christianity had been very 
 much hindered," they said, " by persons saying that 
 the world will be burnt up — perhaps, very soon — and 
 they will all be destroyed. They are frightened, 
 and would rather not hear about it, if that is the 
 case." " Tell them," I said, " that I am come to speak 
 to them about their Father in Heaven, Who loves 
 them — Who does them good continually, watches 
 over, and blesses thetn." 
 
 " What do they think of the Prayer f Ngoza '• hked 
 it, the first time he heard it." All agreed that " the 
 thoughts of it were excellent." " They thought that 
 there was a great deal of truth in what the Missionaries 
 said ; but it frightened them to be told such terrible 
 things. Some said the world would be drowned, and 
 only a little bit of it left for them to stand on ; and 
 then they saw the same people going and living 
 "wickedly." 
 
 h2
 
 100 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 " Thoy have understood more to-night than tliey 
 ever did before." " Now tell them Whose Prayer it is 
 — the Lord's Prayer : for the Great God — umKulun- 
 kulu — sent his Son to become a man, and He lived 
 among men, and loved them, and taught them about 
 the Love of their Father in Heaven." " Their old 
 women had stories something like this." 
 
 "Say now that He is made the inKose en-kulu 
 — Great Lord — of all men. One day I shall hope to 
 tell them more about Him, and how He showed 
 His great love to us allj when He lived in this world, 
 and when He died. But now He is living in Heaven, 
 though we cannot see Him, and He is the Lord of us 
 all, — the i/AVj/a'.^jv^/, Supreme King, Whose Kingdom 
 ruleth over all; and we must obey Him, and try to 
 please Him in all things. It is His Spirit, which 
 puts every good thought into our hearts, and helps 
 IIS to do every right action." They have an expres- 
 sive way, I find, of speaking of a man's " two hearts." 
 
 They told me of the old Kafir tradition, that 
 " umKulunkulu sent the w^ord of life by a chameleon, 
 and then he sent the word of death by a lizard; but 
 the lizard outi-an the chameleon." 
 
 They thought that " part of a man" lived after 
 death; but knew nothing about judgment, till the 
 Missionaries told them. " Have they not something 
 within them, which teaches them, that, when a man 
 has done wrong, he ought to be punished ?" " Yes ; 
 a man's heart condemns him, when he has done 
 wrong." " It is reasonable," one of them observed, 
 " since umKulunkulu made us, takes care of us,
 
 TEN ^VEEKS IN NATAL. 101 
 
 has given us laws, and we must all stand before 
 Him, tliat we should expect to be punished, if we 
 have done wrong." 
 
 " If a man had led a very wicked life, and was 
 grieved because he had done so, what was he to do?" 
 
 " To an earthly chief," they said, " he would con- 
 fess his fault, and ask forgiveness." 
 
 Before we dismissed our company, we asked them 
 if they would like to use the Lord's Prayer with us, 
 as we were going to say our Evening Prayers. They 
 readily assented ; and so we all knelt down together, 
 and I repeated it, first in English, and then in Kafir, 
 while Mr. S. repeated it after me, and the men joined 
 in heartily. How strongly one felt, that this was 
 indeed a Prayer, given us by One, Who knew well 
 what was in man — Who knew what words would 
 suit the wants, and express the hearts' 'desires, of 
 human beings in all conditions and circumstances — 
 high ol' low — rich or poor — educated Englishman, 
 or wild barbarian Kafir ! 
 
 At last, about 10| p.m., we laid a rug upon our 
 mat, and a pillow for oiu' heads ; and then, with 
 a bodyguard of three Kafirs beside us, we put out 
 our light, and composed ourselves, as well as we 
 could, to sleep. I lifted up my heart in prayer for 
 these poor heathen. May God gi-ant me grace and 
 wisdom to do His blessed work among them ! 
 
 Th uraday, Feb. 23. — I arose at break of day, and got 
 out of my hut, and away from the cockroaches — yet 
 not away from them altogether — for we turned them 
 out of our carpet-bags and articles of dress for days 
 afterwards. After a cup of coffee, we started again ;
 
 102 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 and another foui- hours' ride, of exceeding difficulty, 
 being wholly through a rocky mimosa country, like 
 that of yesterday, brought us at last to Pakade's kraal. 
 We met, however, with some little incidents on the 
 way, worth notice. The scenery was, as usual, very 
 grand, and the hills everywhere green to the summit, 
 but very thickly sprinkled with mimosa and other 
 brushwood : and every quarter of an hour some new 
 and elegant flower would greet us ; I longed for time 
 to stop and gather them. We passed several kraals, 
 all governed by Pakade ; and the people belonging 
 to each, being informed by the herald of yesterday, 
 and again this morning, of our approach, were all 
 turned out — men and women alike — to salute us. 
 Their addresses, as we rode by, were very amusing. 
 One said, " Thou that art the great llach one !" re- 
 ferring, not, good reader, to my clerical costume, 
 but to Mr. Shepstone's greatness, as recognised chief 
 of all the black ones in Natal. Another exclaimed, 
 " Thou that camest in two ships ! " and this, too, 
 was addressed to Mr. S., and was meant as a refer- 
 ence to the historical fact, that some ten years ago, 
 when the English Government of the Cape sent up 
 a force to relieve the small garrison, besieged by the 
 Dutch in their little fort at the Bay, it came in two 
 ships, and Mr. S. came with it. A third shouted, 
 " Thou that eatest with strength !" and I will resign 
 the honour of this distinction, too, to my illustrious 
 friend; observing that it was paid, rather, to the 
 supposed greatness of his power and property, than 
 to any remarkable display of his appetite. 
 
 About mid-way between our last night's resting-
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 103 
 
 place and Pakade's own kraal, we came to a large 
 kraal, ruled over by one of his wives, A grand 
 welcome awaited iis, as we drew np — all the men of 
 the kraal being assembled at the entrance, and lit- 
 tering with one voice the royal salutation " Bayete ! '* 
 Then we were told " the inKosikazi wished us to enter 
 and salute her." So we dismounted, amidst shouting 
 and other sounds, that would have startled any but 
 a Natal horse ; and stalked in with dignity into the 
 inner kraal, which was entered by a clever arch of 
 wickerwork, with a very capital attempt at columns 
 by the side of it. Inside this inclosure we were 
 received by the queen, a rather shy, elderly woman, 
 wrapped in a blue blanket. She greeted us cour- 
 teously, and begged us to enter the hut, which we 
 did ; and when we had recovered our sight, after the 
 sudden plunge from light into darkness, we found 
 it filled with Kafirs. The queen sat at one end, and 
 on each side of her two or three younger women — 
 next to whom as many men, probably counsellors, 
 had crept in, as the hut would hold, allowing room 
 for Mr. S. and myself on two stone seats on each 
 side of the entrance. Two large pots of uTyala 
 were then brought in, of which the party all partook. 
 I was invited first to taste it ; and, having assented, 
 the principal man was about to take a Kafir ladle, to 
 skim the surface for me. " No !" the queen said, 
 " that would not do." A better was found. "No!" 
 At last, the right one was sent for, and employed ; 
 after which the head-man himself put his lips first 
 to the vessel, and then apologized most politely to 
 me for the liberty he had taken, but explained that
 
 104 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 it -was the custom of liis people, to guard against the 
 drink being poisoned. I soon sipped enough to satisfy 
 me. It is a sort of beer, made of millet or Indian 
 corn — looks like yeast, and tastes like a mixture of 
 yeast and cider. We left, after compliments had 
 been exchanged between us : in the course of which 
 I learned that my Kafir titles have been elicited, and 
 very good ones they are. One is SoTcululeka, " Father 
 of raising-up," and the oihQV Sohantu, " Father of the 
 people." A great warrior would, perhaps, be called 
 Somadoda, " Father of raen ;" but the Bishop's title 
 is meant to include all — men, women, and cliildren. 
 We rode on a mile, and off-saddled for an hour on 
 the banks of a small river, where we bathed; and 
 then proceeded to the Great Ki-aal, througli a country 
 extremely picturesque, but, in some j)arts, exceeding 
 in difficulty any we had had before. It worJd seem 
 almost impossible for a military force to reach Pakade 
 in such a situation as this. From time to time we 
 were passed, as we slowly mounted the rocky paths 
 of the thickly-wooded hill, by large bodies of his 
 men, all in their full war-dress, who went laughing 
 along, and shouting or singing as they went, to 
 present themselves before their chief to be reviewed : 
 and we passed in our turn the queen and her at- 
 tendants, who had walked along more quietly, but 
 had got in advance of us, while we were stopping at 
 the stream. Upon neariug the kraal, we heard from 
 within it a prodigious sound, like the buzzing of a 
 large swarm of bees, only far more sonorous. We 
 were delayed a few minutes outside the entrance till 
 all was ready; and then, after a grand " Bayete" from
 
 TEX "WEEKS IX XATAL. 105 
 
 the multitude that througed around its, we rode 
 into the large circular enclosure, and found ourselves 
 in the pi'esence of the chief and a regiment of his 
 "wan'iors. These had been going through their exer- 
 cises, and were now forming the greater part of a 
 large circle; while Pakade himself, with perhaps 100 
 or more of his chief-men, was seated on the ground 
 in front of them, immediately opposite to, but at the 
 further end from, the entrance. All the Kafirs were 
 in tmdress — not absolutely naked, but in very scant 
 attire — except the wamors, who were equipped in 
 the striking battle-dresses peculiar to the Zulus, with 
 their feathered head-dresses and large shields of ox- 
 hide, tall enough to hide the whole person, and long 
 rods, instead of spears, in their hands. The govern- 
 ment, it seems, wisely disallows the use of the assegai 
 on such occasions of gathering as this. Otherwise 
 serious accidents might occur, to say nothing of the 
 meeting itself being turned into an opportunity for 
 creating disturbance in the district. As it is, I am 
 told, the consequences are frequently broken heads, 
 &c., as in an Irish row : but nothing, I believe, of 
 this kind occurred to-day. 
 
 As soon as we had entered, the men, who stood 
 immediately before xis, and with their backs to the 
 entrance, opened in the middle to form a passage 
 for us. At the same moment the chief arose from 
 the ground, at the upper end of the enclosure, and 
 came down to meet us into the middle of the kraal. 
 He was a very large, tall man — stout, but not dis- 
 gustingly fat — with short tufts of hair growing here
 
 106 TEN WEEKS IN KATAL. 
 
 and there upon the lower part of his face, which, 
 upon the whole, was very much that of an ogre in 
 an old nursery tale — as grim and grislyj as the most 
 ardent little giant-fancier could desire to have pic- 
 tured, lie wore only the usual hangings of goat's- 
 hair, &c. about his loins, and cross-bands of beads 
 over his broad brown back. I should fear, from his 
 aspect, that he could be guilty of deeds of ferocity 
 and cruelty, that would bear comparison with any of 
 his old master, Panda's, with whom he is continually 
 interchanging messages of defiance to the present 
 day. At all events, Pakade and his tribe are still 
 complete savages, in a state of nature, perfectly un- 
 reclaimed ; so that I have been witness to scenes of 
 native barbarism in its purest form, precisely similar 
 — though on a smaller scale — to those formerly 
 exhibited by Chaka and Dingaan. 
 
 For, perhaps, two hours after our arrival, the pro- 
 ceedings consisted of a separate review of the regi- 
 ment, which was present when we entered, and of 
 another, which came in when that was dismissed. 
 Pakade sat on the ground near us; and, as the 
 sun was hot, he very considerately sent some of his 
 young men, to construct a sort of canopy over our 
 heads, with skins and branches of trees ; and also 
 supplied us with our breakfast, in the shape of a 
 bowl of roasted mealies, and milk. 
 
 The chief looked on at the movements of his men 
 with great satisfaction : and, after these preliminaries, 
 arrived the climax of the day's proceedings, which 
 I find described at the time, in my notes, as follows.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 107 
 
 " I am writing now in the midst of a most exciting 
 scene. The whole of Pakade's men have been collected 
 about a mile off, upon a hill within view, and then 
 marched down, singing their war-songs, into the iuclo- 
 sure. The chief, after seeing them enter and take 
 their station — some 500 men, each in his f^intastic 
 war-dress — went out and changed his ' hangings ' and 
 beads for a very magnificent wai'-dress. He now stands 
 about twenty yards off, and we are surrounded by his 
 warriors, who have formed a complete circle round the 
 interior of the kraal, and are stamping and singing 
 all at the pitch of their voices — he having set them 
 off, but being too stout to carry it on long. About 
 thirty dancing-girls, some of them with their noses, 
 mouths, and chins, whitened with clay, and all loaded 
 with the king's beads, which look like large white 
 bands of cloth across their dark figures — (two or 
 three of them have each as much as thirty pounds' 
 weight of beads about them) — are dancing to and fro in 
 the middle, or rather I should call it 'wambling ;' for 
 the dance consists in a most ungraceful slow shuffling 
 with the feet, to which the arms keep time, with the 
 hands almost closed over the centre of the breast. 
 The women are shrieking — the ' praisers ' are rush- 
 ing here and there, chattering, with foaming lips, 
 the honours of their chief — the warriors are stamping, 
 and shouting, and answering each other from oppo- 
 site sides, with 500 stentorian voices, but yet in har- 
 mony, and always in a minor key, the sound pro- 
 duced very much resembling that of a powerful set 
 of horns and bassoons — two fine oxen, doomed, no
 
 108 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 doubt, to a speedy death, are lowing loudly in the 
 midst — and the chief stands looking on, while we 
 are sitting down behind him, under our shelter of 
 skins. When he was dressed, he first came and 
 looked over the hedge of the kraal from the ovitside ; 
 that is, over the fence which separated the isiGodhlo, 
 or royal parts, from the central area. Hereupon he 
 was greeted by an unanimous shouting, repeated 
 incessantly for some five minutes, of the words xvo-za, 
 Thou shall come ! to which he at length graciously 
 assented ; and was then received with a most erciting 
 universal movement, all the 500 men and the king, 
 mingled np with the cattle, rushing to and fro for 
 some time with cries of delight. At this moment 
 he has come over to us, as proud as possible with the 
 exhibition of the day, and has said tliat ' we (English) 
 are so very fond of peace — he has no power of show- 
 ing what he could do — people are laughing at him.' 
 He has now given iis a sheep to be killed for our 
 luncheon; as, he says, we may be hungiy before 
 supper-time, and then he will give us an ox." 
 
 This stage of the performances occupied about 
 an hour, and was terminated by Pakade making a 
 speech, in which he gave leave to all the men of 
 one young regiment, and to three, who were orphans, 
 of another still younger, to go and marry. It is 
 strange how, ignorant barbarian as he is, he retains 
 such power as this over his men, many of whom are 
 employed during part of the year in service in our 
 towns, and, one would think, would have learned by 
 this time how limited his power really is, if they
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 109 
 
 ehose to disregard it. Then came the last ceremony, 
 namely, the rushiug forward into the area of a num- 
 ber of warriors, one after another, who were either 
 considered by their companions, or by themselves, 
 to be distinguished for some special deed of skill 
 or bravery in war. They went flourishing about, 
 leaping on high, kicking their shields, and shouting, 
 and evidently imitating with their gestures the par- 
 ticular movements, by which, on some occasion or 
 other, their fame had been achieved. One would creep 
 cautiously along, as if observing the motions of an 
 enemy ; another would hurry forward with great 
 agility, make a feint of stabbing with his rod, 
 and then speed back again, amidst the deafening 
 applause of his comrades ; a third would come boldly 
 forward, brandishing his weapon, and shaking his 
 shield, and then take his ground for a few minutes, 
 looking around with an air of fierce defiance, as if he 
 cared not how many might attack him. Perhaps 
 foi'ty altogether of the whole body ventured upon 
 these exhibitions. Some were received with a silence, 
 which betokened disapproval of their claims ; and 
 these soon slunk back, mortified, to their ranks once 
 moi-e. To others the rod of the chief was pointed, 
 all the while they were figuring away in the midst, 
 directing attention to them, as illustrious warriors. 
 
 After this ceremony was over, the chief de- 
 parted, and this was the signal for breaking up the 
 festival. Each party, as they left the enclosure, 
 came rushing vip to us, in 'a frantic manner, 
 flourishino: and kicking: their shields, and offerius:
 
 110 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 their services for any purpose, and at any time, we 
 might desire. I felt my situation rather curious, 
 amidst this large body of raving savages, when the 
 chief had gone, Mr. Hawkins, (the magistrate of Wee- 
 nen, who had kindly come over to meet us on this 
 occasion,) had returned home, and Mr. Shepstone had 
 left me for a short time, to look after our dinner. So 
 there I was all alone, and occupied in the very episco- 
 j)al business, of receiving these offers and protestations 
 of military service, with I know not what threats of 
 vengeance upon my enemies and their own, but with- 
 out the power of saying one word to them, if it were 
 needed. It reminded me a little of a position I was 
 once in at Hanwell asylum, where I was left for some 
 minutes, in the middle of one of the " violent " 
 wards, with a lady on each arm, while the doctor 
 in attendance and keepers were hurrying away to 
 confinement a poor howling maniac, who had come 
 up and spit upon us. 
 
 Our dinner consisted of " sheep's fry," a portion 
 of which had been hastily cooked, and presented, in 
 not the most inviting form, by the Kafir chef-de- 
 cuisine, who had come in our train. We dispensed with 
 our sable friend's services after this occasion, the 
 first on which we had made trial of his powers, at 
 least in his capacity of cook ; but he followed with 
 us to the end, and was a useful servant in other 
 respects. Some of the chief's young girls came and 
 sat down before us, as we ate upon a large bed of 
 stone in the open air : for the hut assigned for our 
 use, belonging to one of his wives, abounded, we
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL, 111 
 
 found, like tlie last, with cocla-oaclies. To one of 
 these, a very pretty young woman, Mr. Shepstone 
 offered a piece of meat, which she received in her 
 fingers very pleasantly, but immediately gave it 
 away to another. Upon inquiry, " she was a chief's 
 daughter, and never ate the inside of a sheep." 
 It did not appeal", however, that our own dignity 
 was at all compromised in their eyes by our pro- 
 ceedings. 
 
 Meanwhile Pakade had retired to his apartments, 
 such as they were — very old huts, I fancy, to judge 
 from our own. His troops had been dismissed to 
 their different kraals, most probably with presents of 
 cattle for feasting : and we could see them wending 
 their way in long trains over the opposite hill. He 
 then sent xis a present of a fine ox for ourselves, and a 
 smaller one for each of our two attendants, uNgoza 
 and umQundani. To this Mr. Shepstone sent a reply 
 of thanks, but at the same time told him, that " the 
 present on this occasion was for me, not for himself" 
 — that " he had only come as my friend, to show the 
 people to me, and me to them " — that " I was a friend 
 of the Kafirs, and, whenever he himself should be 
 absent from the country, they might apply to me for 
 counsel in any difficulties." Pakade is so childish 
 and wayward, that he has been several times in 
 serious difficulties with the Government, out of which 
 Mr. Shepstone's advice has rescued him. He is be- 
 hind his tribe, at present, in respect of civilization, 
 for the reason I have mentioned, that many of them 
 are, from time to time, in service: and he cannot at
 
 112 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 all realize his position, as a subject of the Crown of 
 England. He is, however, very much afraid of 
 committing any act of disobedience ; and, in any 
 emergency, he sends up to Mr. Shepstone hurried 
 messengers, to know what he is to do, and follows 
 his advice implicitly. 
 
 To the message he now received he replied, that 
 " he was very glad to be put right, as he often had 
 been, by Mr. Shepstone " — that " he was much 
 pleased to know that he had another friend, and 
 hoped to make trial of my friendship some day." 
 We had one or two more communications from him 
 in the course of the afternoon, which were exceedingly 
 gracious and polite. 
 
 We now walked down to see the cows milked, at 
 the lower end of the spacious enclosure of the kraal, 
 the fence of which is doubled, and between the two 
 hedges the huts are placed, those at the upper end 
 composing the isiGodhlo. We found the old gentle- 
 man in his undress, as at first, sitting down with 
 some of his amaPahati, or counsellors, observing the 
 cows ; while at one side there was a crowd surround- 
 ing our slaughtered ox, and with immense noise and 
 clamour conducting the process of dismembering it. 
 Pakade at once rose, and began to talk with Mr. 
 Shepstone, in an impassioned and violent manner, 
 though occasionally he broke out into a good-natured 
 laugh. Two months ago he had collected all his 
 men for the purpose of attacking Nodada, another 
 neighbouring chief, with whom he has a feud, and 
 would have done so but for Mr. Shepstone's "advice."
 
 TEN WEEKS IX XATAL. 113 
 
 And uow "Capt. Struben had given to ISTodada a piece 
 of land, which he wished for ; and, if tue would give 
 him leave, he would go at once and attack him." 
 Oil he went for some fifteen minutes, in the most 
 childish manner, recounting his grievances, and 
 scarcely allowing any one to put in a woi'd. But 
 withal he was thoughtful enough to inquire " how 
 we should like our ox cut up, in Kafir or in English 
 fashion 1 " At last we bade him good evening, and 
 started for a walk into the neighbouring country. 
 Then we came back, and enjoyed our fresh milk and 
 tea ; and by this time it was getting dark, and we 
 had to arrange for our beds. We had had enough 
 of cockroaches, and preferred the bare rock, for 
 sleeping as well as eating, to the lady's hut, which 
 was placed at onr disposal. A clean Kafir mat, over 
 which was folded a sort of coverlet, with a small 
 English pillow, and a supply of rugs and cloaks, 
 completed our preparations. Fortunately, the night 
 was fine, and we were quite warm enough ; but the 
 dews fell heavily, and in the morning our hair and 
 "bedding" were thoroughly wet. 
 
 Soon after we had " turned in," at an early hour 
 in the night, the chief sent to ask if we were ready 
 to receive him. He had come before, but found us 
 at our tea, and very politely retired. Of course, we 
 were quite at his service ; aud presently he arrived, 
 attended by a number of his head-men, who came, 
 as before, repeating one by one the salutation 
 'nKos', and crouched down quietly around our mats. 
 Then Mr. Shepstone began to unfold to 'them the 
 I
 
 114 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 special object of my visit, and to speak to them of 
 the umKulunkulu, and of His Fatherly Goodness, as 
 3^esterday. They listened, as usual, with all silence 
 and attention ; and, when he had finished, Pakade 
 began to reply to his remarks. But instantly he 
 was off to civil matters, and the old story of his 
 grievances. (This was no more than we expected, 
 for Mr. Shepstone had forewarned me, that he was 
 "too much of a baby" to look far into anything him- 
 self, but his counsellors might, and, if they did, they 
 would in a month or so succeed in driving it into 
 him. They were really the " power" of the tribe ; 
 only in war matters his ability was great, and duly 
 recognised.) One of his men now called out, that 
 " this was not the subject Mr. Shepstone had begun 
 upon," and that " we should finish that first." This 
 gave us hope that he might be really desirous to 
 hear more ;, biit it appeared to be rather an act of 
 Kafir politeness, recalling his chief from his wander- 
 ings. Several -times Mr. Shepstone attempted to 
 bring on a general conversation on the subject ; but 
 their minds were too full of their political concerns 
 to allow of this, especially as Pakade himself con- 
 tinually went on in his rapid and vehement manner, 
 dilating on one point after another, about which he 
 had complaints or inquiries to make. One thing, 
 however, we ascertained from them — and a very im- 
 portant fact it was to be gathered from such a set of 
 complete heathens — namely, that they did know of 
 umKulunhulu by their own traditions — that He was 
 the same as iinVelinqange, the First Out-comer— and
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 115 
 
 that tliey had heard lately of uTixo, and supposed 
 that he must be somehow the same. " But," the 
 chief said, " there was a complete separation in these 
 matters between the black and the white — we could 
 not at all undei'stand each other." Mr. Shepstone 
 explained, that " I thought there was not so great 
 a separation as he supposed" — that " we believed 
 in umKulunkulu, (the Great-Great-One,) as well as 
 they" — and that " I was sent to tell them more 
 about Him, what He had done, and what He was doing, 
 for them." It is incalculable what mischief must be 
 done by the adoption of this barbarous, unmeaning, 
 Hottentot name {iiTixo), for one which is connected 
 in the mind of the Kafir with such grand associations, 
 as Almightiness and Ox'iginal Existence — however 
 much they may have lost sight of the full meaning 
 of their own expressive words for the Deity. They 
 ai'e the very ideas contained in the Hebrew words 
 Elohim and Jehovah. 
 
 After an hour's talk, they took their leave, and 
 we turned to sleep. At daybreak I looked around, 
 and found that seven of Pakade's men had taken up 
 their bed beside us on the ground, and lay, three in 
 one spot, four in another, close together on their 
 backs, with their heads upon their wooden pillows, 
 looking as they still slept on, each separate party 
 under one common blanket, like so many mummies. 
 They would have infinitely preferred, I believe, the 
 inside of the hut, but could not, in honour, leave us 
 to sleep alone outside it, notwithstanding that we 
 had heard some of their companions come softly 
 I 2
 
 116 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 to them ill the night, and whisper, " The meat is 
 ready." 
 
 Friday. — " At 2 p.m. the chief stalked in to seens, 
 and ever since, up to this time, say 1h a.m., we have 
 had a number of people, men and women, about us, 
 looking on and admiring our processes of breakfasting 
 im.^ journalising. I was not quite sure that he might 
 not take the latter for some species of witchcraft ; but 
 he only remarked " it was uncommonly hard work, 
 and he should not like it at all for himself" Pakade 
 now sits opposite to me, in a scarlet blanket, under 
 the wall of the isiGodhlo, with a row of his coun- 
 sellors beside him. We have just told him, that he 
 and his people must be quiet (there were some 
 twenty about) while we pray." But our '"'cook" was a 
 Christian convert. So he knelt with us, and I offered 
 prayer, concluding with the Lord's Prayer in Kafir. 
 After we had recovered our seats, Mr. Shepstone 
 began by asking the chief, " What he thought of 
 that V He said, " We quite heat him last night, with 
 talking of the umKulunkulii,, and saying that we 
 'prayed to Him in England ; for he saiv there was not 
 so great a se2'>aration after all.'' We were perfectly 
 taken by surprise with this answer ; for we had fan- 
 cied that he had scarcely noticed this observation of 
 ours overnight. But it seems he had, and, though 
 he had said nothing at the time, had been pondering 
 since upon it. Mr. Shepstone then explained to 
 him the Lord's Prayer, and said that Baba Wetu 
 (our Father) was umKulunkulu, and then went 
 through the petitions, one by one, as before. The
 
 TEX AVEEKS IX XATAL. 117 
 
 chief listened apparently with gi'cat interest to all 
 that was said to him, and seemed to realize the 
 meaning of the whole — the first fact having been 
 the key to unlock the rest. In answer to a question 
 from ]\Ir. Shepstone, he said, " It would be a very 
 proper prayer to be used at their Festival" — in which, 
 I may remark, nothing whatever met the eye that 
 was disgusting, or in any w^ay offensive to a Christian 
 mind, except the general barbarism of the people, 
 and their very evident appetite for war. But, as 
 soon as Mr. Shepstone had ended his lecture, the 
 chief was off again, " How do 3"ou make gtin- 
 
 Pakade has just ordered a party of his young men 
 to go to Weenen, whither we are next bound. It 
 seems Mr. Hawkins has requested him to send ten 
 of his people, to help to clean out a water-com-se. So 
 he sends them away with this very sage admonition : 
 " You are very well off, young men. Older men than 
 you (the men of another regiment) had to dig it, 
 and were j)aid nothing for their labours. You have 
 only to clean it, and will get paid into the bargain." 
 
 We started from Pakade's about 9 a.m., and, after 
 a six or seven hours' ride, I'eached Weeuen, a small 
 village lying in the centre of a sort of oven, or rather 
 frybuj-pan — a valley surrounded by lofty hills on 
 every side — and, therefore, intensely hot. But what 
 a ride ! The first half-mile out of Pakade's was 
 down an exceedingly steep wooded height, where the 
 path was a succession of rocky steps, some of them 
 two feet in depth. Of course, we could not attempt
 
 lis TEX WEEKS IN NATAL, 
 
 to ride ; and how our poor horses got down I cannot 
 tell. Mine was given into the charge of a Kafir, 
 who managed, by coaxing and pulling, to bring it 
 somehow to the bottom. But there was so much 
 of this horribly stony ground between Pakade's and 
 Weenen, that our horses' feet, being unshod, were 
 knocked to pieces, and they could hardly bear to 
 •put them to the ground. "'We passed the castor-oil 
 plant, and plenty of aloe-trees, from the leaf of 
 which, when burnt and mixed up with tobacco, which 
 they grow, the natives manufacture snuff — said to 
 be very good. At the place where we off-saddled and 
 bathed, Mr. Shepstone witnessed a curious incident 
 in insect life. He found a cockroach on his coat, 
 (one of those, no doubt, which had crept into oiir 
 pockets, while we slept in the Kafir hut two nights 
 before,) and flipped it ofi" upon the ground. Pre- 
 sently a large ant came up and nibbled at him, and 
 then I'an off" post haste to its hole. In an instant it 
 came speeding back, with a troop of its companions, 
 who seized on the unfortunate cockroach, which had 
 hitherto been lying without motion in a state of 
 stupid unconcern, but now, becoming aware of its 
 danger, began to struggle violently with its assailants 
 — but all in vain : the ants, Avith might and main, 
 pulling " one and all" together, carried off the poor 
 wretch for their prey. 
 
 At this halting-place we could hear the sound 
 of wailing for the dead, at some kraal not very far 
 distant. The cry, it seems, is Mye Baha! "Ah 
 me ! Father !" iand " What have we done ! what
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATxVL. 119 
 
 have -we done ! " Mr. Shepstone very justly suggests 
 that this fact also, of their appeahng to the Deity in 
 this manner on such occasions as these, might be 
 made the gi*ound of an address to themselves. 
 
 Saturday, Feb. 25. — On our arrival at Weenen 
 last evening, we were most kindly entertained by 
 our friend Mr. Hawkins, and his young wife — since 
 then, alas ! removed by sudden death. The village 
 of Weenen derives its name (weeping) from the cir- 
 cumstance of its having been founded by the Dutch 
 Boers, immediately after the dreadful massacre of 
 their friends by the tyrant Dingaan, of which some 
 particulars are given in the Introduction to this 
 Journal. This morning I called npon the principal in- 
 habitants, all Dutchmen. One house was particularly 
 clean and neat. In the gardens were splendid orange- 
 trees, full of fruit. I found that they were grievously 
 in want of a schoolmaster; and should be very glad 
 indeed to procure one for them, as they requested, 
 " an Englishman who could speak Dutch." The 
 younger Dutch families, I believe, are very desirous 
 that their children should learn the English language, 
 and they are daily assimilating more and more to 
 the habits of Englishmen. We now had a very long 
 day's ride to Doornkop, where we were expected 
 yesterday by our kind friend, Mr. Moodie, and his 
 family; but the delay, occasioned by the accident to 
 our wagon, had cost us the sacrifice of this part of 
 our an-angements. To get out of the basin of Wee- 
 nen, we had to ascend a desperate hill at starting, 
 and then to ride about thirty miles, often over stony
 
 120 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 ground, as before; but, upon the whole, the road 
 was better to-day than yesterday. We stopped to 
 refresh ourselves at the house of a young Dutch 
 Boer, by whom, and his good Vrouw, we were most 
 kindly welcomed and entertained. We are now ap- 
 proaching the Tukela, and have had the fine peaks 
 of the Draakeusberg in sight to-day and yesterday. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 26. — A party of Dutch Boers, and 
 three Englishmen, from the Tukela, came over to 
 Morning Service ; and, though the former could not 
 ■understand a word of the Prayers or Sermon, yet 
 they seemed pleased to have attended, and satisfied 
 on the whole with the ' Beskop.' It appears, how- 
 ever, that they had had some misgivings as to the 
 connexion of the Church of Piome (of which they 
 entertain the utmost horror) with the whole matter 
 of his appointment, and were not quite sure that 
 beneath the episcopal robes might not be concealed 
 the cloven foot of the enemy. 
 
 We had some conversation on the subject of the 
 gratitude of the Kafirs. It is common to say that 
 there is no word for gratitude in the Kafir lan- 
 guage. But there is one for thankfulness; and 
 it is curious enough that the same deficiency exists 
 in the Dutch language, as was amusingly illus- 
 trated at one of the meetings of the Kafir Com- 
 mission, Mr. Shepstone was asked, " Was there 
 any word for gratitude in the Kafir tongue?" 
 and, out of the mouth of this distinguished Philo- 
 Kafir, it was thought the poor race would stand in- 
 evitably condemned. " No," he replied, " the nearest
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 121 
 
 approach to it is uhiBonga, which means propex-ly 
 ' thaiikfuluess.' " "Wliereupon the Dutch interpreter, 
 Mr. Zietsman, translating his words for the benefit 
 of the Dutch members of the Commission, rendered 
 the answer thus : — " They have no word for dank- 
 
 harkeit; the nearest approach to it is " and here 
 
 he was brought up, to the great amusement of his 
 audience, for w\ant of another Dutch word, hav- 
 ing already employed the word for " thankfulness " 
 to express '' gratitude." Doubtless, the feelinfj of 
 gratitude exists in both nations — at least, in indivi- 
 duals of both. Though it must always be remem- 
 bered that the Kafir adult is but a child, and that 
 we do not look for the deep feeling of gratitude, 
 fully developed, in a mere schoolboy, towards those 
 who have kindly treated him. It is remarkable that 
 in the Kafir language there is no word for command, 
 although in no people is the exercise of authority 
 more common and the sense of it stronger. The 
 chief's " word " — iliZwi — is his command. 
 
 I was speaking of the faithfulness and honesty of 
 the Kafirs, and obsei-ving that it was not always to 
 be matched among Englishmen. " Well," said young- 
 Mr. Moodie, "you seem to have heard a good many 
 stories about their honesty. Now let me tell you 
 a tale of a different kind, in which I was concerned 
 with them. About six months ago, I sold a man 
 a spade for .5s. ; he paid me 4s. on the spot, and pro- 
 mised to bring me the other Is. in the course of a 
 day or two ; but from that time to this I have never 
 seen or heard anything of my shilling." Certainly,
 
 122 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 
 
 it was a formidable accusation against my poor dark- 
 skinned friend; and I had nothing to say on liis 
 behalf, except that I did not suppose all Kafirs 
 were equally virtuous, and that I thought it just 
 possible that such a piece of villany might find its 
 match in the good old mother-land. But, while we 
 were talking, there was a half-caste servant, who was 
 within hearing, and who was all attention to the 
 story. And, when presently his young master left 
 the room, the man went out to tell him, that " Saul 
 had given the Is. to him a long while ago, for one of 
 his young masters; but he did not know exactly for 
 whom, and had kept it in his box ever since, and there 
 it was now." Mr. Moodie w^as perfectly satisfied with 
 this man's account of the transaction. He was 
 a well-tried faithful servant, and no doubt had been 
 perplexed at first about the matter, and had, through 
 carelessness, forgotten all about it since. At any 
 rate, he was a half-caste — ^half English, not a pure 
 Kafir. 
 
 Monday, Feb. 27. — After spending two delightful 
 days of rest under the roof of our kind friends, we 
 started in company with Dr. Blaine, the magistrate 
 of the Kahlamba Location, to visit the Chief Langa- 
 libalele. A pleasant ride of about two hours brought 
 us to his kraal, which lay in the bosom of some 
 rather bare-looking hills. The country was more 
 open than we had seen it hitherto, with the tine out- 
 line of the Kahlamba or Draakensberg Mountains in 
 the not very far distance. The chief's uTyala (beer) 
 having been made a little too soon, it was " up " and
 
 TEN "WEEKS IN NATAL. 123 
 
 ready for nsc on Friday last, and he had been obliged 
 to keep his feast on Saturday. But he had detained 
 his men for our inspection ; and, accordingly, we 
 found his kraal well filled, but with people, men and 
 women, who had a decidedly dirtier, dingier, look 
 than any of Pakade's. Two of them had been sent 
 to escort us from Doorukop — mounted troopers on 
 horseback — for Langalibalele has many of his men 
 mounted, contrary to the usual practice of the Ka- 
 firs; but they seemed to have some difficulty in 
 " sticking on " their animals, and looked wonderfully 
 like a couple of English chimney-sweeps. I after- 
 wards found, upon inquiry of the chief himself, why 
 his people looked so dirty, that it arose from their 
 dresses consisting almost wholly of skins, their cattle 
 having died in very great numbers, owing to the 
 sickliness of the season or the badness of the grass; 
 so that "people," he said, "had even come over the 
 river to help to eat them." There was an immense 
 number of women and children in the kraal, which 
 was much larger in extent than Pakade's : but the 
 huts were smaller and poorer; and Pakade's was his 
 own private residence, in which, I imagine, none but 
 himself and his chief men had huts, whereas this 
 was evidently a common kraal. Mr. Shepstone told 
 me that this tribe had suffered more by war than 
 any other in the district, having been dreadfully 
 cut up by Chaka and Dingaau: and this may, in 
 some measure, account for the great number of women 
 in proportion to men, and for the extensive practice 
 of polygamy among them.
 
 124 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 We were saluted, as usual, on entering the kraal, 
 ■with a loud Bayete from the great body of men, who 
 till now had been sitting with their chief, but all 
 rose up and advanced with him to meet us. Lan- 
 galibalele did not shake hands, as Pakade did, being 
 more modest ; but he welcomed us pleasantly, and 
 seemed much more genial and good-natured than the 
 other. He is in appearance rather a young man, of 
 perhaps twenty-six years, tall, and in good condition 
 — you would hardly call him stout — with that dig- 
 nity and grace in his actions, which so commonly, 
 amidst the most savage nations, proclaim the king. 
 We had seated ourselves on the grass, as usual, 
 when he sent us, out of his treasures, a very uncom- 
 mon luxury, in the shape of a nicely-made wooden 
 bench with arms, capable of just holding us all three 
 English dignitaries — Mr. Shepstone, Dr. Blaine, and 
 myself. This chair of state was probably manufac- 
 tured by English hands, and in some way acquired by 
 the chief. But some of the Kafir chiefs are fond of 
 having a black carpenter or chair-maker attached to 
 their " court." Chaka had one in his days : probably. 
 Panda has one now, as he makes use of a throne for 
 himself on grand occasions. But the old chief, Faku, 
 (of the Amampondo Kafirs,) when lately visited by 
 Mr. Shepstone, granted him all his requests but one, 
 and that was the convenience of a chair. He said, 
 " He did not patronise them — he thought the ground 
 was surer and safer — it was only Englishmen and 
 chickens that wanted perches ! " 
 
 Langalibalele seated himself at a respectful dis-
 
 TEN -WEEKS IN NATAL. 125 
 
 tance from us, with some thirty of his counsellors 
 around him, while the great body of his people sat 
 behind and before us. We were amused with watch- 
 ing their cheerful mirth, especially that of the 
 Avomen, who stood yet further behind us to the 
 right and to the left, and were full of their pranks 
 and fun among each other, chattering and laughing 
 together, and playing tricks upon one another, as 
 heartily as any such a set of English, or perhaps 
 Irish lasses, might have done under similar circum- 
 stances. The men have an ugly practice (though 
 one gets vised, I find, to the sight of it) of making 
 a large hole in the lobe of the ear, which is often 
 open and linoccupied, but generally filled witli some- 
 thing or other — often a snuff-box, made of a circular 
 reed, about an inch in diameter and four inches 
 long, and in the other ear may be carried a long 
 bone snuff-spoon, something like a mari'ow-spoon 
 flattened, for scraping off the snuff and moisture of 
 the face, and constituting, in fact, a "Kix^v j^ocket-hand- 
 Tcerchief. They are certainly inveterate snuff-takers, 
 having learned the practice, I imagine, from their 
 European friends, but now carrying it on con amore^ 
 without any impulse from them. Their ingenuity 
 is applied in innumerable ways to the preparation 
 of snuff-boxes, every object of nature, that admits of 
 it, being adapted for the purpose. A hollow reed, 
 stopped at each end with cork, and decorated with 
 beads or stripes, or sometimes two such reeds, of 
 smaller size, fastened together by a cord, tastefully 
 beaded, and serving, I suppose, to furnish some exqui-
 
 126 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 site " Kafir's Mixture " — a pair of large round nuts or 
 seed-vessels — a pair of acorn-shells, hollowed pieces 
 of bone, cai'ved pieces of wood, or empty chrysalises 
 of a large moth — these are some of their devices for 
 carrying about with them smaller quantities of snuff 
 for ordinary use ; while a gourd, of tolerable capacity, 
 will serve as a means of laying up a stock in store, 
 or bearing a larger supply for a journey. The signs 
 of their enjoyment in taking snuff are most amusing. 
 They sit down upon the ground, pour out the snuff 
 into the palms of their hands, and then prepare, in the 
 most serious and determined way, for this exquisite 
 indulgence. Sometimes with their fingers, often 
 with a little bone spoon, (like our friends beyond 
 the Scottish border, between whom, by the bye, in 
 full Highland costume, and a well-dressed Zulu 
 warrioi', there is no small similarity of appearance, 
 except in the colour of the skin,) they take in the 
 pungent powder ; and presently we see, by the lacka- 
 daisical expression of the face, and the tears stream- 
 ing down the eyes, that the dose has taken due effect, 
 and our friend is in an ecstasy. The great point is 
 to shed tears. And one of my friends, Mr. Fynn, 
 told me that he once gave a very strong pinch to 
 a Kafir, who, after going through the above process 
 to his heart's delight, looked up from the ground, 
 and said, " Ah ! this is a pinch of snuff indeed ! It 
 has brought out the ancient tears, that have been 
 for years behind my eyes !" 
 
 Many of the Kafirs now around us had the rinrj 
 upon their head, which forms the peculiar distinction
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 127 
 
 of a Zulu married man. The hair, which is of the 
 woolly kind, is first tied or stitched into a ring, 
 made of sedge. Then, having obtained from tlie 
 branches of the mimosa a white gummy substance, 
 the product of an insect which lives upon the tree, 
 they roll it between their hands, until it becomes of 
 sufficient length to be laid over the sedge ring, and 
 completely cover the stitches. By the aid of grease 
 and rubbing, the ring is made to take an excellent 
 polish, and its upper surface, as it stands upon the 
 crown of the head, has the appearance of solid 
 leather. Several of those around us had the in- 
 flated gall-bladder of a goat stuck into their stiff 
 coronals ; and this was a token, that they had been 
 sufficiently dignified in the opinion of some kraal, 
 to which they had been sent as messengers, to have 
 a goat killed in their honour. Some few had more 
 than one of these distinctions. 
 
 After we had been seated thus for some time, the 
 chief sent to know, if we would like to see his men 
 go through their exercises. Of course we answered 
 " Yes ;" and up started a number of men around 
 him, with a yell, and ran wildly down through the 
 kraal. Presently we saw some thirty or forty of 
 them proceeding to a heap of shields and war-dresses, 
 which lay piled together in the middle of the kraal. 
 With these they armed themselves, rather slowly 
 as it seemed to us, and then made some manoeuvres 
 before us, which so far amused us that we were not 
 tired with the proceedings ; but still we thought 
 that Lauffalibalele's warriors were far inferior, in
 
 128 ' TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 number and performances, to Pakade's. All this, 
 liowever, was a stratagem, on the part of their chief, 
 to beguile our attention, while his preparations were 
 being made to surprise us. For after we had thus 
 spent, perhaps, half an hour, and were beginning to 
 get a little wearied, we were suddenly told to look 
 behind us; and there upon a hill, at some distance, 
 was the grand army marshalled, and marching down, 
 like Pakade's, in a very imposing manner, and in 
 considerable force. At length they entered the 
 kraal, some 450 or 500 men ; and, after parading 
 before us and round the enclosure, they went through 
 their dances, which were decidedly superior in spirit 
 and character to those of Pakade's people. There 
 was the usual accompaniment of whistling, hissing, 
 and singing in a minor key, to the regular time-keep- 
 ing of their feet. After this we had a present of an 
 OS from the chief, and then repaired to our tent for 
 our evening meal. The rest of our proceedings that 
 evening I will relate in the words of my note- 
 book. 
 
 " At this moment Laugalibalele and his head-men 
 have come into our tent, while we have just finished 
 oiu' dinner, and are taking a cup of coffee. A fat 
 counsellor of his has just crept in, in his scanty 
 undress, and without any blanket. ' How is this?' 
 said Mr. Shepstone ; ' you so great a man, and not 
 wear a blanket ! ' 'I love my wife,' said the man : 
 that is, he had given his only blanket to cover her. 
 Mr. Shepstone has just put into the chief's hand a 
 spoonful of brown sugar, which he eats with great
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 129 
 
 zest, and stuffs a portion into the mouth of his riglit- 
 hancl neighbour, and then Hcks his hand when he 
 has finished it. He has just asked Mr. S., 'Huw 
 is sugar made?' 'It's made by boiling.' 'Ah! 
 then you are taught that by the iimVehnqange.' 
 It should be observed, that we had not said a word 
 to him, or his people, on the subject of religion ; so 
 that here we had this heathen Kafir, of his own 
 accord, referring the wisdom, which he siaw we i^os- 
 sessed, so superior to his own, to the Great Source 
 of all Wisdom. We caught, of course, at this word. 
 'Whom do you mean by umVelinqange ?' 'He 
 made men — he made the mountains — he gave them 
 names. Do jon know,' he asked, ' who gave the 
 Tukela its name?' 'No.' 'Then it must be the 
 umVelinqange : for we do not know who did.' We 
 asked, ' Who was the umKuluukulu 1 ' He said, 
 ' He v.-as the same.' ' Did they know anything about 
 the creation? Had they any tradition about it?' 
 ' No ; they only knew that He had made them ; 
 they did not know In/ what toord He had made 
 them. Their old men had died by wars, and the}^ 
 had forgotten everythuig.' He said, ' They only 
 knew of uTixo, since white men had come into the 
 country ; but they knew the other names from time 
 immemorial.' I begged Mr. Shepstone to tell him, 
 that uTiso was meant by the Missionaries for the 
 same Being ; but the teachers did not know they 
 had such good names themselves for God, — that we 
 prayed to umKuluukulu, and I was scut to tell them 
 all about Him, the things which they and their 
 
 K
 
 130 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 fathers had forgotten, or never known. Mr. S. 
 asked, ' If the Feast of First-fruits was not a feast 
 of Thanksgiving 1 ' ' Yes ; it certainly was — but 
 they did not know to whom.' At a particular moon, 
 when the fruits are ripe, they keep a feast for the 
 blessings of the year ; but they do not know at all 
 to whom — they have quite forgotten. 
 
 " Mr. Blaine had not been with us at any of our 
 former conferences with the Kafirs, and wished to 
 press the point further, and to make out clearly, 
 whether they knew anything of their own two names, 
 before they saw the face of an Englishman. So the 
 oldest man present was asked about it, and he replied : 
 'Yes; from our childhood they told us, and they 
 heard it from their fathers.' ' Had they ever had a 
 Missionary in their tribe V 'Yes ; Mr. Allison had 
 been with them. He had told them about Jehovah, 
 and that they were as lost sheep without a shepherd.' 
 'Had they heai'd the two Names before then'?* 
 ' Yes ; long, long before.' ' And did they connect 
 the Names with Jehovah, when they heard of Himf 
 'No, not at first ; they only now began to think so.' 
 ' Mr. Allison,' they said, ' taught them to pray that 
 they might be kept right, kept from Satan's direction, 
 and put in the right place at the last day.' 
 
 " I then asked Mr. S. to explain the Lord's Prayer, 
 which he did, wdiile they listened, as usual, with the 
 deepest attention and strained eyes, making assents, 
 ' Tebo ' nKos,' ' Yes, Sir,' at every few words. ' What 
 do you think of that prayer?' The chief, at this 
 question, turned round to his 'praiser,' or poet-
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 131 
 
 laureate, and said : ' Well ! you have a good deal to 
 say to us about every tLiiig ; what have you got to 
 say to thatr The poet replied, very prudently; 
 'He had nothing to say against it ; perhaps, he would 
 say more another time.' 'Would it not be a good 
 thing, to say such a praj'er as that at the Annual 
 Feast ? ' ' They do say a prayer ; for, when they 
 kill the ox, they sa}-, " Hear, 'mKulunkulu, may it 
 be always so !" and, if it is, they connect it some- 
 how with the sacrifice, although they eat it : and so, 
 when a person is sick, they say, " Hear, 'mKulun- 
 kulu, may he recover!'" On further inquiries, I 
 found that they never make such petitions as these, 
 when the shields and the soldiers are there — there- 
 fore, not at this feast ; but, when a person is going 
 to 'eat comfortably,' or is sick, or is prosperous, 
 then, when they kill the ox, they say, ' mKulunkulu, 
 look down upon us ! Baba, may I not stumble !' &c. 
 This practice mai/ be peculiar to this particular 
 tribe. In others, I fancy, they make such addresses 
 to the amaTongo or amaHlose, the spirits of the 
 dead. 
 
 " A discussion now arose between themselves, as to 
 whether the amaHlose and amaTongo were the same 
 as umKulunkulu. One said, ' He thought they 
 were.' But he was overruled by the others, who 
 said : ' That could not be ; for thej/ were the spirits 
 of dead people, who came into snakes sometimes; 
 but iimKulunkulu made men and all things.' I 
 asked now, ' Would they like their children to be 
 taught V Upon which the chief replied, ' We are 
 k2
 
 133 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 the children ; we wish to be taught.' * What ! do 
 you feel a desire to be taught yourselves?' 'Yes : 
 we came here to save our lives from our enemies ; 
 and now we should like to know what our protectors 
 know.' ' Tell him,' I said, ' that I must wait a little 
 while, till I have young men Avho can speak the lan- 
 guage of the Kafirs, before I can send a teacher to 
 him.' ' Yes ! that would be desirable.' Nodada, the 
 other day, said to Captain Struben's interpreter, 
 *' You are my inferior ; you shall not interpret for 
 me :' and all that tribe, and all others in the dis- 
 trictj say the same. This, of course, w^as a little 
 political grievance. I then asked, ' How many wives 
 he had 1 ' Putting up his fingers, one after another, 
 he counted them in Kafir fashion, ' Ishumi, Ishumi^ 
 IsJmml, Jslmmi, Ishumi, Ishumi, Ishunii, IsJmmi,'' by 
 which he meant me to imderstand that he had 
 eighty wives, ' ten, ten' &c., — and fifty children. 
 While I was making a note of this, the chief 
 turned round to his company, and said, ' There 
 go my eighty wives over the sea.' It was most 
 amusing to see the eight black faces, with tlieir 
 white eyes and wide grinning liiouths, enjoying the 
 joke. 
 
 " ' The focts,' Mr. Shepstone says, ' which have 
 been elicited to-day, have some of them never been 
 brought out, to his knowledge, before.' He had never 
 himself been aware, that they had any such practice 
 as the chief described, of making little petitions, even 
 now, by themselves, to the uniKulunkulu." 
 
 At the end of our conversation, JantjeC; our
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 133 
 
 attendant, said that " the chief vras ashamed to ask 
 for himself; but he would be very glad of a blanket." 
 Of course, we promised him the one I had brought 
 for him ; and he went away with the cry ' Baycte.' 
 
 I slept to-night delightfully in our wagon. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 28. — It is so pleasant to see the 
 natives walking or standing, two and. two, with their 
 arms around each other's neck, or arm-in-arm. This 
 morning we started about 10 a.m., after a pleasant 
 conversation with Langalibalele and his chief men. 
 There is always such a good-natured smile upon his 
 lips, that one cannot help liking him. 
 
 A ride of about an hour and-a-half now brought 
 us to the kraal of Putine — a very old chief, with 
 a soft, wily eye, and a slow drawling utterance, 
 which 3'ou might have taken for the result of the 
 feebleness of old age ; and, indeed, the expression of 
 his face was at times veiy weak and childish : but 
 now and then there was a quickness of reply, and 
 even an agility of body, when he ran into the midst 
 of his men, drawn up at their exercises, which 
 showed that the fii'e was not quite extinct within 
 him. At first, we had to sit down with him mider 
 a straw- thatch, raised on a few low poles, which just 
 made a shelter for three or four persons iq:)on the 
 ground beneath. Around us, crowded as close 
 as possible, were some forty of his people, who 
 encircled us on every side, and listened with most 
 eager attention to every word which fell from the 
 white man s lips. The peculiar feature of this tribe 
 was the great number of very old men, companions.
 
 134 .TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 BO doubt, of Putine's youth, and now the counsellors 
 of his old age. Such furrowed, wizened faces they 
 had, with worn-ovxt, wrinkled forms, and, even 
 among the younger men, a singular deficiency of 
 teeth. The Kafir's mouth is usually supplied with 
 a splendid set of white even teeth, which from the 
 simplicity of their diet, they keep generally to old 
 age. But for some reason or other, which I could 
 not make out, it was not so here. 
 
 They told us, as before, that, ' long before the white 
 men came, they had heard of umKulunkulu,' — that 
 'he made the land, and men, and all things.' 'Tell 
 them,' I said, ' that He is our Father, and we are all 
 His childi-en, and, therefore, brethren; and we ought 
 to be kind to one another.' ' That was very good — to 
 know that they had heard of Him so long ago, and 
 now, when they had become subjects of white people, 
 to find that they were all brethren. It was comfort- 
 able to find such a relationship to superior people.' 
 'Did they know of any other Name?' 'No.' 
 'Had they never heard of umVelinqange?' 'Yes: 
 that was the same.' ' Had the Missionaries taught 
 them a Name for God 1 ' ' Yes : Mr. Allison had 
 taught them the name Jehovah." (Mr. A. objects, as 
 I have already mentioned, to the Hottentot word 
 uTixo.) Tell them, that ' Their own Names ai'o 
 excellent Names for God ; and we shall call them by 
 those Names, and shall come to tell them more about 
 Him.' There was a general assent of ' Yebo,'' Yes, 
 to this, expressing great satisfaction. (There was a 
 prodigious sneezing, coughing, and sighing of delight.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 135 
 
 just now behind us, Mr. Shcpstone having given 
 them some snufF. The old chief asked for some 
 tobacco, that he might make snuff for his " Messus." 
 I am not sure that I shall not have to set up a 
 snuff-box for their use.) At last, Putine turned to 
 me and asked, 'Whether I had not a medicine for 
 old age ? ' I said : ' No ; but, if we did the Will of 
 umKulunkulu here. He has promised us another and 
 a better life, when this life is ended, in a world far 
 brighter and more glorious than this.' 
 
 By this time a large body of natives had been col- 
 lected, as before, upon a neighbouring height, and 
 were marched down suddenly to take us by surprise. 
 In order to see them, we were now moved to the 
 hedge of the cattle-kraal, in which, to the number, 
 perhaps, of 300, they went through their exercises — 
 one of them a remarkably good one. The hedge, on 
 which we sat, was one of the rudest, constructed of 
 stones, and filled up with earth. The summit — our 
 throne — was mere soil, and, where our feet hung over 
 the side, was plentifully bespattered with cow-dung. 
 Upon the whole, I must say, th.at neither the 
 arrangements, nor the discipline, of this tribe seemed 
 to be so good, as under the younger and more ener- 
 getic government of my former friends, Pakade and 
 Langalibalele. While sitting here, in the hot sun, 
 imsheltered, and after a rather broken night, I could 
 not help nodding off in a dose, when I ought to have 
 been earnestly contemplating, and intensely admiring. 
 the movements of the troops. Whereupon, one of 
 the old "counsellors," who sat upon the wall in
 
 13G TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 a long row beside me, gave me a nudge, and said, 
 " The lukos' will fall, and, if he does, Ave shall get the 
 blame." Once, the old chief scrambled down upon 
 his shaky legs, and, after making himself very busy, 
 for a few minutes, in scolding some of his young 
 troops, and making a feint of striking one or two of 
 them with a rod, which he snatched out of the 
 hands of a stander-by, he came panting back, to 
 recover his position on the wall. This was not to be 
 done so easily at his time of life ; but, while one of 
 his counsellors helped him on one side, I had the 
 honour of laying hold of his sable Majesty's naked 
 thin arm on the other, and so we pulled the old 
 worthy up again upon his throne. 
 
 After leaving Putine, we had a long and fatiguing 
 ride to Emmaus, a Station of the Berlin Missionary 
 Societ}^, under the charge of the Eev. C. "VV. Posselt, 
 wliich is situated close under the Xahlamba Moun- 
 tains, and near the tribe of Zikali. We crossed the 
 little Tukela very well, and also a nasty, slippery 
 'spruit,' which Mr. Shepstone disliked and Ngoza 
 dreaded. The poor Kafir said, ' He had been thinking 
 about it, ever since he knew that we were to come 
 this way.' But then, happily, it was full daylight. 
 The darkness set in long before we reached Mr. Pos- 
 selt's, and we had some very awkward riding for the 
 last three quarters of an hour. At one point, Mr. 
 Shepstone's horse plunged into a bog up to his 
 middle, and trembled all over with fright; and in- 
 deed, my dear friend, I found, was himself rather 
 anxious, though he did not like to say so at the time.
 
 JEN WKEKS IN NATAL. 137 
 
 However, thank God, we got through all our diffi- 
 culties at last, and were received znost heartily by 
 the good missionaries, Posselt and Zurikle, with their 
 excellent wives. 
 
 Wednesday, March 1. — Attended the little Mission 
 Chapel, and talked with the converts of this Station. 
 "Before the Missionaries came," one said, "we heard 
 that tliere was a Great Inkos', who took care of us; 
 but what He was, we did not know." Another (a 
 British Kafir, from the frontier of the Cape Colony) 
 here observed that "He manifested Himself by means 
 of dreams or spirits — amaPupa or amaTongo." Theu 
 a third informed me, that '^ his people called Him 
 umKulunkulu and umVelinqauge." This was uNceni 
 or Karl, who had been a servant formerly of Capt. 
 Gardiner for three years, and so well remembered 
 and loved his old master, that, when told of the cir- 
 cumstances of his death upon the shores of Patagonia, 
 he burst into a flood of tears, and for some time 
 could not be comfoi'ted. He wanted to have accom- 
 panied Capt. Gardiner, when he returned out of the 
 2ulu country to Natal; but, when he reached the 
 Tukela, Dingaan sent for him and forbad him. Ho 
 has a large scar over his eye, and over his breast, 
 ■which the Zulus gave him, when he finally escaped 
 from them, and put himself under the teaching of 
 the Missionaries. He said, " The Zulus first heard 
 of uTixo from Capt. Gardiner ; but, bcfoi'e he came, 
 they thought the origin of all things was umKulun- 
 kulu." Dingaan said, of Capt. Gardiner's teaching, 
 .*•' umKulunkulu must be the same as uTixo, only we
 
 138 TEI^ WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 have no one to tell us." Capt. Gardiner, it appears, 
 could not himself speak the Zulu language, but 
 always addressed the people by means of an inter- 
 preter; and the chief, though he never heard him, 
 was curious to know what he had said to his sub- 
 jects, and made the above remark upon it. 
 
 Karl has married a daughter of one of Mr. Pos- 
 selt's converts, named Honco. This girl was also 
 baptized ; but he had another unbaptized daughter, 
 who was married to a young heathen. It is well 
 known that a Kafir, going to marry, x^sually pays 
 a number of cows to the father of the bride. This is 
 called ttlcuLohola ; and, though said to have been 
 originally a deposit on the part of the husband, as 
 a pledge for his good treatment of the girl, it has 
 certainly come to be considered, both by English and 
 Kafir, pretty much in the light of an actual pay- 
 ment, and the wife is considered to be purchased. 
 Upon this occasion, Mr. Posselt asked Honco, " How 
 he would do now without cows for his daughters ?" 
 *' Oh," he said, " if they will but treat my daughters 
 well, that is the best ukuLobolar The young men, 
 however, did make their father-in-law, who was very 
 poor, a present, one of one ox, another of two. 
 
 I find that Mr. Posselt has had serious thoughts of 
 joining the Church of England; and I have reason to 
 hope, that he will join our first Missionary Institution, 
 as one of its clerical labourers. His knowledge of the 
 native language and habits would be very valuable 
 to us, for he has been thirteen years at work among 
 the Kafirs; and his spirit is delightful, and quite what
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 139 
 
 I should -wish for in a Missionary. I am told that 
 he has one fault. He can sit down over a naught}'" 
 Kafir, and ^ueep and pray over him ; but he finds it 
 very hard work to punish him. Mr. Posselt enters 
 thoroughly into our missionary plans, and says that 
 our proposed institution is exactly what he would 
 have wished to recommend to me, namely, so that, 
 instead of dissipating our resources, we should con- 
 centrate them at first in one primary station, from 
 which others may be developed. 
 
 "We had a conversation upon the much-vexed and 
 difficult question of the treatment of polygamy, 
 among Christian converts from heathenism. The 
 most painful case, Mr. Posselt told me, which he had 
 ever had before him, was that of a young man, who 
 had two wives, both of whom he loved, and both 
 loved him. The man wished to be baptized, and so 
 did one of the wives — the other not. As the two 
 converts gave evident signs of their sincerity, ho 
 said, he knew not what to do, but at length decided 
 to marry them. "The word of God was shai-per,'* 
 he thought, "than any two-edged sword." He "could 
 not, with the examples of the holy men of old, enforce 
 separation, as if polygamy were in itself sinful." But 
 he " set before them the Lord's will — one husband, 
 one wife — and the order of the Church ;" and then 
 said that "though, for the present necessity, their 
 state was permitted, yet it was not sanctioned by 
 Christianity; and he hoped the good Lord would 
 teach them what to do in the matter." The two, 
 accordingly, were baptized, and admitted to Holy
 
 140 TEX WEEKS IN NATxVL. 
 
 Commuuion. But the man's mind, after his pastor's 
 words, was imeasy; the congregation complained of 
 his being allowed to have two wives; and the bap- 
 tized wife threatened to leave him, if he did not put 
 the other away. At last he did so; but the poor 
 woman bitterly felt the separation ; for " she loved 
 him best," his mother said, " and was the most 
 dutiful daughter to her;" and she came to the Mis- 
 sionary, with tears in her eyes, to say, '•' You have 
 not only taken my husband from me, but you have 
 taken my child also," — which, by law, became the 
 property of the father. 
 
 I must confess, that I feel very strongly on this 
 point, that the usual practice of enforcing the sepa- 
 ration of wives from their husbands, upon their con- 
 version to Christianity, is quite unwarrantable, and 
 opposed to the plain teaching of our Lord. It is 
 putting new wine into old bottles, and placing a 
 .stumbling-block, which He has not set, directly in the 
 way of their receiving the Gospel. Suppose a Kafir- 
 man, advanced in years, with three oi; four wives, as is 
 common among them, — who have been legally mar- 
 ried to him according to the practice of their land, 
 (and the Kafir laws are very strict on this point, and 
 Kafir wives perfectly chaste and virtuous,) have lived 
 with him for thirty years or more, have borne him 
 children, and served him faithfully and afl:ectionately, 
 (as, undoubtedly, many of these poor creatures do,) 
 — what right have Ave to require this man to cast off 
 his wives, and cause them, in the eyes of all their 
 people, to commit adultery, because he becomes
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 141 
 
 a Christian 1 What is to become of their children 1 
 Who is to have the care of them 1 And what is the 
 use of our reading to them tlie Bible stories of 
 Abraham, Israel, and David, with their many wives 1 
 I have hitherto sought in vain for any decisive 
 Church authority on the subject. Meanwhile, it is 
 a matter of instant vu-gency in our Missions, and 
 must be decided without delay in one way or other. 
 I may add that I returned to England in the Indiana, 
 with an excellent old Baptist Missionary from Bur- 
 mah, Dr. Mason; and I was rather surprised to 
 learn from him, that the whole body of American 
 Missionaries in Burmah, after some dilference in 
 opinion, in which he himself sided decidedly with 
 the advocates of the separation system, have, in the 
 early part of the year 1853, at a Convocation, where 
 two delegates attended from America, and where this 
 point was specially debated, come to an unanimous de- 
 cision to admit in future polygamists of old standing 
 to Communion — but not to offices in the Church. I 
 must say, this appears to me the only right and reason- 
 able course. In the next generation, but not in this, 
 we may expect to get rid of this evil : for, of course, 
 no convert would be allowed to become a polj'gamist 
 after baptism, or to increase the number of his wives. 
 Zikali has just come in with a large body of his 
 men. As we could not find time to go to his kraal, 
 we had sent for him. He is a young man, of thirty- 
 three or thirty-foiu-, and not of very prepossessing 
 appearance. In fact, he looks dissipated, and, I hear, 
 he drinks. He is, moreover, very haughty and over-
 
 142 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 bearing in las manners, and rides usually with a 
 troop of mounted attendants behind him. Mr. 
 Shepstone told me that he once saw an Induna, or 
 chief-man, of his tribe, hold a snuff-box before him 
 for more than half-an-hour. He and his people are 
 refugees from the Zulu country. After the usual 
 compliments, as they sat upon the ground around 
 us, we began upon our great subject. " Had they held 
 the Feast?" " Yes." " What was the meaning of 
 it V " It was the custom to dance and sing, when 
 the crops were gathered in." " Was it not a Feast of 
 Thanksgiving V " Yes : they thanked the chiefs for 
 getting rain for them, by paying the rain-doctors. 
 But their rain-doctor had died, when his father 
 had died." " Who, then, made the rain now?" " He 
 supposed, the English." We could get nothing to 
 our purpose out of him ; and indeed his youth, 
 and rather depraved looks, forbad our expecting 
 much. We asked " If a Great Being above did not 
 make all things?" "They knew nothing of this, 
 till the Missionaries came." " Had he ever heard 
 the names of umKulunkulu and umVelinqange ? " 
 " No ! perhaps, some of his old men had." A grizzled 
 grey-beard here got up upon his hams, from the 
 circle of old men — Zikali's amaPalcati (counsellors) — ■ 
 who sat at a very respectful distance behind him, 
 and, I should have thought, quite out of hearing of 
 our questions and their chief's answers. In a serious, 
 slow tone, he said, that " when a child, he had heard 
 from old women, stooping with age, that there was 
 a Great Being, pe-Zulu (up in heaven), who had
 
 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 143 
 
 those names : but, more than that, he knew nothing." 
 We bade him listen to his umFtmdise (teacher), Mr. 
 Posselt, "who would tell them all about Him, and had 
 been telling them all along, for uTixo was only an- 
 other name for umKulunkulu." 
 
 Thursday, March 2. — To-day we had rather a less 
 interesting ride than usual, till we came towards the 
 banks of the Tukela. On our way to it, we stopped 
 at one or two houses ; one, that of an Englishman, 
 who has married a Dutch wife, and almost, if not 
 quite, become a Dutchman himself Here we re- 
 ceived all hospitable attentions, as usual; and passed 
 on our way in front of a chapel, built by the Dutch 
 people of the neighbourhood in connexion with the 
 Dutch Reformed Church, whose active and able head 
 in this colony is Dr. Faure, son of the venerable and 
 excellent Dr. Faure, Dutch minister of Capetown, 
 whom I liad the pleasure of visiting, on my return 
 homewards, in company with the Bishop of Capetown. 
 Very near the Tukela, we came to the thriving farm 
 of Mr. Labuscagne, whose name (like those of many 
 others in this colony, as De Plessis, Marais, De Ligne, 
 &c.) betrays indications of French origin ; and, in- 
 deed, it is known that a great number of French 
 Protestants landed and settled at the Cape, after the 
 revocation of the Edict of Nantes. While I entered, 
 after a genial welcome from the hearty Dutchman, 
 Mr. Shcpstone stopped behind to talk to him ; and 
 I found the kitchen full of Dutch lads and lasses, 
 with whom I shook hands, but, alas ! had not a word 
 to say to them. (I must try to remedy this defect
 
 144 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 
 
 by tlie time I make my next visit.) At last I dis- 
 cerned, seated in a chair at the further end of the 
 room, an upright, motionless form, as I thought, of 
 a sick old lady — no doubt, the lady of the house. 
 So, walking cautiously up to her, and taking the 
 hand, which was feebly held out to me, I sat down 
 beside her, and smiled in compassion for the poor 
 dame's infirmity. I was rather surprised, however, 
 to find before long, that this was only a proper part 
 of Dutch ceremon3\ The good vrouw was as brisk 
 and healthy as myself, and the mother of as large 
 and fiue a family as jou would wish to look upon. 
 She had been bustling about at the door, among her 
 young men and maidens, as we approached ; and had 
 only just had time to seat herself, and assume her 
 position of dignity, when I entered the kitchen. 
 Very many thanks did we owe tlie kind dame that 
 night, for her bountiful supply of milk and other 
 comforts for our suppei-. 
 
 We now went on, and immediately crossed the 
 noble stream of the Tukela, (larger tliau any between 
 this and Capetown, except perhaps the Umzimvxibu 
 or St. John's River,) just as it became dark, taking 
 off our shoes and stockings, and then riding through 
 it. We bivouacked on the opposite bank ; and had a 
 visit on our table-cloth of two of the curious insects 
 of the country — one, a mantis; the other, so exactly 
 like a blade of grass, that you would scarcely discern 
 the diflfei'ence. 
 
 Friday, March 3. — Rode on towards Ladismith. 
 At one point we passed a large cobra snake, wliose
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 145 
 
 motion alone I saw in the grass ; but Mr. S. saw its 
 head and neck. This is the only venomous reptile 
 I have yet seen in the colony. As to wild beasts, 
 •I fancy, there is no hope of my being able to see one, 
 except two young lions, which have been brought 
 down from be^'ond the mountains, and are to be 
 seen any day, tied on each side of a shop-door in one 
 of the streets of Maritzburg, and waiting for con- 
 vej-ance to the Bay, that they may be shipped to 
 England. I had much conversation to-day with Mr. 
 Shepstone, as to his remarkable proposal for relieving 
 the colony of some portion of the vast body of 
 savages, by which it is now overrun, and well-nigh 
 overpowered, and forming a " Black Kingdom " 
 nnder his own government, on the sonth side of the 
 Umzimkulu. 
 
 The extraordinary nature of this enterprise, and 
 the noble self-sacrifice which it involves on the part 
 of Mr. Shepstone, — only to be compared with that 
 of Sir James Brooke among the natives of Borneo, 
 — require that I should state some particulars of his 
 early life, which I have gleaned from conversation 
 with him, in order to show how strangely he has 
 been formed, by the course of God's providence, for 
 undertaking so momentous a work, which is likely 
 to exercise a mighty influence, not only upon the 
 fortunes of Natal, but upon the whole of the south- 
 east of Africa. 
 
 •Mr. Shepstone, though himself a devout church- 
 man, (and indeed churchwarden, and a main-stay of 
 the church in Maritzburg,) is the son of a Wesleyau 
 
 L
 
 146 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 missionaiy, who for the last thirty years has been 
 labouring, and still labours, among the heathens in 
 South Africa, — formerly among the Kafirs, now, 
 I believe, among the Hottentot tribes, somewhere to 
 the north of Capetown. Brought up from his in- 
 fancy among the natives, he acquired at a very early 
 age their language, and could speak it with fluency. 
 At the age of sixteen, he assisted Mr. Boyce, a Wes- 
 leyan missionaiy at Grahamstown, (who could never 
 himself speak the language,) to translate nine books 
 of the Bible, and compose the first Kafir grammar. 
 He was subsequently attached, as interpreter, to Sir 
 H. (then Col.) Smith, Sir B. Durban, and Sir A. 
 Stockenstrom, by the last of whom he was entrusted 
 with the complete charge of the Fingoes, when, to 
 tiie number of 17,000, they were released from 
 slavery at the death of the chief Hintza. (These 
 were, in fact, the remnants of Natal tribes, which 
 had been driven out by Chaka's and Dingaan's inva- 
 sions. They took refuge with Hintza and his 
 people, who called them ama-Fengu, " miserables 
 or paupers," and, though Kafirs themselves, made 
 slaves of their black brethren.) Mr. Shepstone, how- 
 ever, now became a special object of the enmity of 
 the Kafir chiefs, until at length they plotted against 
 his life. For two years, he never returned to his 
 house by the same road by which he went out. 
 And, at last, his servant and a missionary, in whose 
 wagon he was travelling, were hiurdered one night 
 by a party of Kafirs, who had overheard the sei*- 
 vant's voice, and mistook the missionary for Mr.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATxVL. 147 
 
 Shepstone himself. His life beiug thus endangered, 
 in 184G he was sent to Natal, where he has ever 
 since been engaged under Government in high 
 official position among the natives, and sometimes 
 on occasions of great difficulty; as, for instance, 
 when he had to compel the two powerful tribes of 
 Langalibalele and. Patine to remove from spots on 
 which they had settled, and to enforce upon them 
 a fine of 1,000 head of cattle, for their disobedience 
 to the orders of the " Gi'eat House." But they owe 
 him no grudge for this; and it was most touchiug to 
 observe how his perfect knowledge of their language 
 and modes of thought, his quiet yet dignified man- 
 ner, the mingled firmness and gentleness of his 
 character, and their entire confidence iti his good 
 faith and good will towards them, brought these 
 poor savages to his feet at every kraal we visited, 
 including, as my journal will have shown, those of 
 the two chiefs just referred to. They looked up to 
 him like children to a father, told him of all their 
 little troubles and grievances, and received with 
 most trustful reliance every word of advice he gave 
 them. Nothing, certainly, can be compared with 
 the wonderful influence Mr. Shepstone has acquired 
 over the great body of the Natal Kafirs, except, as 
 before, the very similar case of Sir James Brooke 
 among the Dyaks of Borneo. 
 
 Such, then, is Mr. Shepstone. And the plan 
 
 which he has proposed, for relieving the district 
 
 from some portion of its fears, is the following. He 
 
 is well known from his childhood to the old chief 
 
 L 2
 
 148 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Faku, the supreme Head, or Ukumkani, of the 
 Amampondo Kafirs, "who commands a vast territory 
 to the south of the river Umzimkulu, the boundary 
 of Natal, and who is one of our allies. Faku calls 
 Mr. Shepstone " his son," and has often begged him 
 to come and settle near him, offering to give him 
 any quantity of land he may require for himself and 
 his people ; and Mr. Shepstone is now ready, with 
 the sanction of the British Government, to accept 
 this offer, and to lead off, over the Umzimkulu, as 
 many of the Zulu chiefs and their tribes as may be 
 disposed to follow him. There is every reason to 
 believe that these may amount eventually to 50,000 
 or 60,000 souls. The chiefs will govern each his 
 respective tribe by Kafir law, but Mr. Shepstone will 
 be the supreme Chief or Ukumkani. He will at 
 once require them to abolish all such practices as are 
 abhorrent to humanity, and will seek gradually to 
 bring them over to the habits of civilized life, and in 
 every way to raise and improve their condition. 
 With this sole end in view, inspired with the love of 
 God and his fellow-men, he is preparing now to 
 abandon a comfortable home, and to bury himself, 
 with his wife and children, far away from the reach 
 of English Christians, amidst the wilds of heathenism. 
 His position at first, with so many discordant 
 materials around him — a single white man amidst 
 a host of savages — will be one of great difficulty and 
 danger, not merely from attacks of open violence, 
 but from the secret arts of the treacherous poisoner. 
 It can scarcely happen that he will fail to cause
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 149 
 
 offence, by some of las measures, to some one or 
 other of the chiefs, or their followers, who may sub- 
 mit themselves at first to his government ; and he 
 will have no protection but his own stout heart, his 
 keen sagacity and wariness, and the arm of the 
 Almighty. Already the Natal Government has 
 sanctioned his making a preliminary visit to Faku, 
 in order to make aiTangements for this migration. 
 
 By this means the present over- crowded state of 
 the district would be greatly relieved. It would 
 then be possible, which now it is not, to enforce 
 upon those left behind, and upon all new-comers 
 from the Zulu country, such measures, with respect 
 to decency of clothing, the discontinuance of poly- 
 gamy and the sale of wives, &c., as are absolutely 
 necessary for their improvement in civilization, and 
 would greatly assist the efforts of the Missionary. 
 And there would be a kind of safety-valve provided 
 for the passions of the people, in case of any discon- 
 tent arising among them. Such as objected to any 
 measures of the Government, would have always the 
 alternative before them of crossing the Umzimkulu, 
 and living under the less-suspected rule of Mr. 
 Shepstone. 
 
 But, though withdrawn from tlie district, Mr. 
 Shepstone's Kafirs would still be a portion of my 
 flock, a part of the charge which the Churcli has 
 committed to my care. As the son of a Missionaiy, 
 and himself a devout Christian, it is my friend's 
 most ardent desire to see them converted to the 
 faith of our Redeemer, and placed, it may be, under
 
 150 XEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 a bishop of tlieir own hereafter. He behaves that 
 this can best be brought about, under God, by the 
 ao-ency of just such an institution as has been before 
 described. And, as soon as ever liis own authority 
 shall be sufficiently established over his people, he 
 will apply to me to set one on foot, on the very 
 same scale and principles, in the district he will 
 occupy. Their ultimate reception into the Church 
 of Christ he looks for as the great reward (so may it 
 please God !) of all his self-denying labours. 
 
 Should the life of Mr. Shepstone be prolonged, in 
 the mercy of God, to carry o\it completely this great 
 enterprise, there is every reason to believe that 
 results of immense importance, besides the mere 
 settlement of Natal, would accrue to England and 
 to the whole of her South African possessions. The 
 death of the old chief Faku would probably bring 
 under his rule the Amampondo people, who would 
 thus be united with his own. With a strong Kafir 
 nation like this, under direct British influence, 
 i:)lanted in the rear of those tribes with whom we 
 have been lately fighting, it would be almost impos- 
 sible for another Kafir war to arise. In short, his 
 authority would be felt over the whole of Kafirland: 
 and at length that very rich and productive region 
 ■ — incomparably the finest in all South Africa — 
 would have rest from its many troubles, and wel- 
 come the peaceful steps of commerce, civilization, 
 and Christianity. 
 
 Should it, however, please God to order other- 
 wise, and to cut short his valuable life before any
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. lol 
 
 of these great results had been achieved, there is 
 is certainly no one who could fill his place, and the 
 tribes thus removed from the colony miist be left to 
 their own devices. But they would not be worse off 
 than now, nor would the perils of the country be at 
 all increased. The natives are there ; they are really 
 and truly, if they please, at any time the masters of 
 the land. Their power is daily growing, and canno 
 be stopped. The question is, who shall wield it 1 
 
 But a few years only might accomplish great 
 things. If the Missions of our Church have time to 
 develop their strength, and acqxaire their proper in- 
 fluence among them, we may hope that in some way 
 or other a true successor might be found for Mr. 
 Shepstone, either an Englishman like himself, trained 
 under his eye, taught by his example, and recom- 
 mended by his choice to the people; or else one of 
 themselves, a Christian Kafir, who had received the 
 word of truth from the lips of our Missionaries, and 
 had learned to look up to his bishoi) as a father and 
 friend. 
 
 [Since my return to England, I have received 
 a letter from Mr. Shepstone, dated August 31, 
 1854, and giving an account of his visit to Faku, 
 from which I extract the following interesting 
 particulars : — 
 
 " I left here on the 19th May, and returned ou 
 the 7 th August. I took all my family with me. 
 I had several objects in view in so doing ; one of 
 v/hich was to prevent any misconception by Faku's 
 people of the character of my visit. It was, of
 
 153 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 course, impossible for me to prevent n goodly number 
 of my black friends from accompanying or following 
 me; and by the time I got half wa}', my party 
 amounted to nearly two hundred. It was easy for 
 frightened people to magnify this to two or even 
 twenty thousand, and to believe that, with such an 
 army, my intentions could certainly not l)e very 
 peaceful. As I expected, so it fell out ; the most 
 extravagant reports preceded me. Faku's people, 
 who of all tribes I have met with, are the most timid 
 and suspicious, hearing of my advance with a large 
 retinue, concluded that I was coming with an army 
 to destroy them, for some unknown reason ; and 
 many of them fled, with their cattle, to places of 
 safety. But, fortu.nately, Mr. Jenkins, the Wesleyan 
 Missionary there, had also heard of my coming, and 
 was aware that Mrs. Shepstone and the children wei'e 
 with me. The knowledge of this fact furnished him 
 with an unanswerable argument, against the as- 
 sumption that my intentions were hostile : for, said 
 he, ' Who with a beard on his face would go out to 
 war, and take his wife and children with him'?' 
 This, with Mr. Jenkins's assurances, which go a great 
 way with them, had the effect of allaying their fears, 
 but did not satisfy the questions raised by their 
 suspicions. 
 
 " On, however, I went, and at length reached the 
 Mission Station of Palmerton, where I was received 
 W'ith the greatest hospitality, by Mr. and Mrs. Jen- 
 kins. I found Faku's people in a state of great 
 anxiety and suspense. My former visit, ten years
 
 TEN VrEEKS IN NATAL. 153 
 
 previously, had been paid wlien I was an officer of 
 tlie Cape Government, and then I was a favourite ; 
 but now, coming from that of Natal, with which 
 their relations have not been satisfactory, they won- 
 dered whether, after all Mr. Jenkins's assurances, 
 I might, nevertheless, be unfriendly towards tliem, 
 and the bearer of evil tidings. To this state of 
 things was added the misfortune, that the old chief 
 liimself was suffering from a severe inflammation iu 
 one of his eyes ; so that he could not, for some days, 
 see me, — with that one at least. Information, how- 
 ever, was constantly sought from Mr. Jenkins, who, 
 I believe, gave him all he could, and in such a 
 manner, as to relieve him of any painful suspense as 
 to the character of my mission. 
 
 " During all this time, the greatest attention was 
 paid me. Fakii sent his brothers, sons, and great 
 men, to come and pay their respects to me, bringing 
 with them cattle for the use of my followers. These 
 grandees met me at the Mission Station ; every sign 
 of respect and regard was shown towai'ds me ; and 
 much regret was expressed, that ' the accident of 
 the chief's affliction should interpose to prevent that 
 cordial interchange of sentiment for which my visit 
 gave opportunity ; but, as it was a circumstance over 
 which neither Faku nor I could exercise control, we 
 nrast be content that it was so, and Faku, in addition 
 to bearing the affliction, would suffer a great loss.' 
 I thought this sufficiently courtly to indicate a desire 
 not to receive me at all : but I determined to see 
 the end. I therefore sent, and expressed to him my
 
 154 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 very great regret, that I should have had the mis- 
 fortune of finding him ill; and that, to give time 
 for his recovery, I should pass on, and visit tlie river 
 St. John's, in the hope that, on my return, I might 
 probably find him so far recovered as to be able to 
 meet me. He sent back to say, that ' he could not 
 think of allowing me to pass on without seeing me — 
 that he hoped I should excuse his not visiting me 
 first' — and that ' he thought he should be sufficiently 
 recovered in two days to receive me.' 
 
 " After two days, accordingly, I went. Seventy or 
 eighty of my people accompanied me ; for they were 
 all anxious to see the great man. We reached the 
 ' great place ' early in the forenoon, and seated our- 
 selves on the grass, about fifty yards from the Resi- 
 dence, awaiting the summons to meet His Majest}'. 
 There were about 500 of Faku's chief men, to witness 
 the meeting. Hour after hour, however, passed 
 away, but no summons came ; until, at length, I sent 
 to tell him that ' I could wait no longer, and should 
 return home.' My messenger arrived just as they 
 had settled the knotty point, as to the etiquette to 
 be observed in my reception ; and he had no sooner 
 delivered his message, than we saw Faku's people 
 rise simultaneously, and move towards where we 
 were sitting, headed by the heir-apparent to the 
 throne ! They all stood about fifteen paces from us, 
 and wdth one voice gave the salute ' Baj^ete,' which 
 you will doubtless recognise. They then immedi- 
 ately went back to their places, and I received 
 intimation, that Faku was ready to receive me.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 155 
 
 I thereupon walked up, and desired my people to 
 return the compliment to His Majesty. This diffi- 
 cult business, which had kept us so many hours in 
 suspense, being ended, I shook hands with the old 
 gentleman, who was sitting on the ground, with a 
 large shade over his eye. He pulled me down close 
 to him ; made me take off my hat, that he might see 
 if I really was the man I purported to be ; called me 
 by m}^ name, ' Theophilus,' several times, as if to try 
 whether I would answer to it, and exhibited quite a 
 childish extravagance in his satisfaction at seeing 
 me. He then administered a good-natured scolding 
 for my having exhibited impatience, when ' my 
 father,' as he called himself, ' was considering how he 
 could show me honour,' — told me ' I must stay all 
 night with him ' — that ' he had much to say to me,' 
 and that ' he had provided a fat ox for my dinner, 
 and a house for me to sleep in.' I declined the invi- 
 tation to dinner and a bed, and said, ' I should come 
 again.' He then showed me his eye, which certainly 
 was very much inflamed, and told me that ' a wizard 
 had done it.' 
 
 " I now found that all difficulty was over ; the ice 
 was broken, and all formality had ceased. After this, 
 I had several interviews with him, and I arranged 
 everything with him as satisfactorily as I could have 
 expected. He consented to my occupying such 
 extent of country, between him and Natal, as will 
 be sufficient for my purpose; and made over to my 
 exclusive control the mouth and port of the St. John's 
 River. He repeatedly told me, I must look ui:)on
 
 156 TEX WEIGHS IN NATAL. 
 
 liim as ' my father,' and take care of him accordinglj-. 
 He invariably said ' my son,' when speaking to me. 
 
 " Nearly all the chiefs and counsellors, residing 
 between Faku and Natal, signed an instrument, 
 electing me as their supreme chief, in the fullest 
 sense of the word ; by which, as I explained to them 
 most particularly, they placed themselves, their 
 wives and children, their property and their country, 
 in my hands. I accepted this only on condition that 
 my Queen consented to my doing so, which I should 
 be able to tell them in a short time. While I was 
 at Faku's, some people residing to the south of him, 
 i.e. towards the Cape Colony, sent a deputation to 
 me, requesting and urging very much to become my 
 people. ;These, however, I thought it best to refuse, 
 for the present, on the ground that they live so far 
 away, and thinking also, that, in the event of the 
 Home Government not sanctioning the measure, 
 their safety might be compromised with their more 
 powerful and jealous neighbours. I gave them these 
 reasons frankly ; but they still urged, saying, ' they 
 did not mind the distance, if I would but allow them 
 to be called my people.' I felt it my duty, however, 
 to adhere to my resolution, until I know what the 
 decision on the matter is. 
 
 " But you must not suppose, from what I have 
 said, that my recent journey, terminating, as it has, 
 so successfully, was without its difficulties and trials. 
 I can assure you to the contrary'. Many days I suffered 
 most intense anxiety. The people with me would 
 sometimes become alarmed, and doubtful of my
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 157 
 
 ultimate success ; especially -uhen it was thought that 
 ray occupation of the country would be opposed by 
 Faku. They talked of plots and conspiracies, and 
 their forebodings were anything but encouraging. 
 Then I had to road the letters of my friends, warning 
 me against the secret opposition which would be 
 brought to bear wpon Faku and the other chiefs, to 
 my prejudice. And, added to all this, I had to 
 discuss in my own mind the question, as to wlicther 
 it really was the path of my duty or not. I dared 
 not decide this in the negative ; for, if I had, I could 
 not reasonably expect God's blessing upon my under- 
 taking. During these cloudy daj^s, I felt much 
 comforted by reading the hymn, which you had 
 printed on the Confirmation tickets. It struck me 
 very much when I first heard it ; and ever since, 
 I have kept a copy of it in my Prayer-book. It 
 begins, ' Put thou thy trust in God.' My conclusion 
 is this : ' If it is the path of my duty. I shall walk 
 in it, and God will bless me in so doing ; if the con- 
 trary, I shall not be allowed to undertake it : circum- 
 stances, over which I have no control, will arise to 
 prevent it.' Indeed, this is my constant prayer. 
 The assurance you gave me, that I am remembered 
 in your daily prayers, also comforts me greatly, and 
 I thank you for the remembrance." 
 
 I trust that I am not violating my dear friend's 
 confidence, in quoting the above passages from a pri- 
 vate letter to myself, of course, without his knowledge 
 or consent. But I do feel it right, that the friends of 
 Africa should be made aware of these circumstances,
 
 158 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 and be ready to render help to such a man, should 
 the entei-prise in question, or any similar one, be 
 undertaken by him at some future day. At present, 
 I believe, the Home Government has expressed its 
 disapproval of the measure, as, in their opinion, at- 
 tended with too great a risk, and it must, therefore, 
 at this time, be abandoned. Our Missionary work 
 in Natal will now be of a more urgent character. 
 The vast body of natives now within the colony wiU 
 remain there ; and our only hope of retaining them 
 in peace and order will be by beginning vigorously, 
 and without delay, to discharge our long neglected 
 duty of seeking to educate, civilize, and Christianize 
 them. It is a great comfort, however, to know, that, 
 in the carrying on of this work, we shall now have 
 the, presence and help of Mr. Shepstone himself.] 
 
 I was very kindly met by Capt. Struben, and nine 
 or ten friends, on horseback, at about four miles 
 from the village of Ladismith, which we entered after 
 crossing the Klip (or Stony) River, and found it to 
 be a neat hamlet of twenty-three houses, all of 
 them well built, besides soldiers' tents, and huts. 
 Capt. Struben has made himself a very nice English 
 house, and planted a garden, which, after three years' 
 growth, abounds with very respectable fruit-trees. 
 This was the first house built in the place. He tells 
 me that, last winter, his roof hung with icicles, two 
 feet long, which did not melt for thirty-six hours. 
 
 I find that it will be impossible for me to continue 
 further my visits among the chiefs, without incur- 
 ring expenses, which, now that I see my course of
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 159 
 
 action plain before me, woukl not be compensated 
 by the result. Nodada and Matyana live thirty 
 miles away in a terrible country, just like Pakade's 
 in character, but with the Sunday River, full of 
 round stones, and in this (summer) season liable to 
 be at any moment swelled with rains, to be crossed 
 fourteen times. My poor horses are quite incapable 
 of doing this work after their late exertions. Another 
 chief lives nearly as far away, though in a more 
 manageable country ; but, I am told, I should cer- 
 tainly sacrifice one horse or more, in trying to get 
 to him, from the horse-sickness, which is just now 
 prevailing in these parts. This sickness is a deadly 
 disease, which carries off horses rapidly in some 
 parts of the colony. It appears to arise from eating- 
 grass, which, either from having the dew upon it, 
 (as some imagine,) or from some other cause, is con- 
 sidered to be poisonous to them. The lungs become 
 affected suddenly, (at least, this is the first evident 
 symptom of the disorder,) and are soon destroyed, 
 and the animal dies. This evening the horse of the 
 army surgeon at Ladismith was brought in sick, and 
 died in half-an-hour. In this place last year they 
 lost 300 horses. ]Mr. Potgieter lost twenty-eight, 
 Labuscagne thirty-two, and Roberts lost bis whole 
 stock of seven in a day and a-half ; and two years 
 ago he lost fifteen. The country hei'eabouts, how- 
 ever, though not good for horses, is admirably suited, 
 I am told, for grazing cattle, and for sheep and corn. 
 Saturdaij, March 4. — This morning I copied from 
 Mr. S.'s dictation the 100th Psalm in Kafir; and then
 
 160 TEN' "WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 bco-an the Apostles' Creed. We have the greatest diffi- 
 culty in fixing on a proper name for God. I cannot 
 bear the mean and meaningless name uTixo, with its 
 disagreeable click, and poverty of soimd. uniKulwii- 
 Jcidu and U7n VeUnqange are both too long for com- 
 mon use ; and so would be ^iLungileyo, " The Good 
 One." We have thought of adopting umPezuluy 
 " He above, or in Heaven ;" and by this ISTame, in 
 fact, Kafirs are often sworn in courts of justice. 
 Standing up, and lifting the first and second fingers 
 of the left hand in Dutch fashion, he will repeat the 
 words Ngi bona, 'nKos iPezulu, " Behold me, Lord 
 above ;" or, JYgi size, 'nKoi iPezulu, " Help me. 
 Lord above." But there are objections to this word 
 also. I am not sure that it would not be best to 
 employ the word uDio. It is a new word, it is true, 
 like uTixo ; but it is easy of utterance, is directly 
 connected with the Greek and Latin Names for God, 
 and is not very far removed in sound from the word 
 which it displaces. No one, who has not tried, can 
 conceive how hard, and almost impossible, it is, to give 
 correct representations in another, and that a barba- 
 I'ous, tongue, of the refined and expressive language 
 of some parts of the Bible and Prayer Book. 
 
 Capt. Struben went with me to call on all the 
 twenty-three houses of the place, and also at the 
 camp, where there is at present a small detachment 
 of soldiers. I find, among the inhabitants, a very 
 great desire manifested for the erection of a church, 
 and the support, to some extent, of a minister. We 
 are to have a meeting on Monday on the subject.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. IGl 
 
 At present, the English worship in the Dntch church, 
 which is a barn-like building, without any preten- 
 sions to architectural beauty, erected by the Boers 
 at their own expense, assisted by some small subscrip- 
 tions from the English, and a grant of 200^. from 
 the Government. 
 
 One of the houses, which I visited, was occupied 
 by a Dutchman, named Lotteriug, a wagon-maker 
 by trade, who, with his wife and four children, had 
 trekked recently out of the Transvaal coimtry, where 
 those Dutch Boers, who, after the battle of Boom Plaats, 
 determined to go still further to the north, in order 
 to get out of the reach of English rule and inter- 
 ference, have settled themselves down, and formed a 
 republic beyond the Vaal River. Here they are 
 said to have founded a large and flourishing town, 
 called Magaliesburg. But they are also said to have 
 departed far from the religious principles and prac- 
 tice of their Dutch brethren in Natal and the Cape 
 district ; and it was to escape from their ungodliness 
 and unrighteous way of living, that this man. Loi- 
 tering, had left them, and come to put himself once 
 more luider the government of Queen Victoria. 
 
 I found the house, I must confess, for an English- 
 man's nose, hardly endurable, — especially when the 
 door was shut — from the quantity of fresh hiltong, 
 or flesh cut off in strips from an animal, whose skin 
 and carcase lay just outside the door, while the pieces 
 of raw meat were hung up inside in the open roof to 
 dry. Perhaps, there were fifty or sixty of these 
 pendants dangling over our heads, covered with iunu- 
 
 H
 
 162 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 raerable flies, and scenting the air very disagreeably. 
 I suppose, however, it was not offensive to them, ov, 
 at all events, they were used to it ; and, as our con- 
 versation proceeded, I was well content to endure 
 patiently this small discomfort, though it I'equired 
 a tolerably strong stomach to do so. He was, of 
 course, a Dutch Presbyterian of the Reformed 
 Church ; but he wished to have his four children 
 baptized by me on tlie morrow, as he had had no 
 opportunity, for so many years, of bringing them for 
 baptism to a pastor of his own Church. I told 
 him, that our Church required godparents. " There 
 was no one in the place, who knew him sufficiently," 
 he feared, "for this." Capt. Struben, however, at 
 once said, that he and Mrs. Struben would attend as 
 godparents. Then he expressed a wish to partake 
 of the Nacht-Maal — the Holy Communion — if he 
 might ; " but," he said, " he was not confirmed. 
 Would it be possible for me to examine him, and 
 ascertain his fitness for Confirmation ? He knew the 
 Scriptures weil, and with his wife habitually read, 
 and, he hoped, desired to practise, them." I asked 
 him to repeat the Lord's Prayer. He arose imme- 
 diately, and, standing in reverent posture, repeated 
 solemnly the words of the prayer in Dutch. Through 
 Capt. Struben, as interpreter, I then questioned him 
 as to its meaning, and received such intelligent and 
 pleasing — withal, such devout and modest — answers, 
 that I felt, I could not but admit him to Confirmation 
 and Communion. It is true, he could not repeat 
 the Belief, for the Dutch Church does not recognise
 
 TEN WEEKS IX XATAL. 163 
 
 its authority ; but he gave me satisfactory evidence 
 of his holding the main truths contained in it ; and 
 inquired anxiously whether the baptism, with which 
 I should baptize his children, would be " in the Name 
 of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy 
 Ghost." " His wife," he said, " agi-eed with him in 
 all points ; and morning and evening they prayed 
 to their Heavenly Father, and, as well as they could, 
 taught their children to do the same." All this was 
 said with so much earnestness and simplicity, and with 
 so much humility of spirit, in speaking of his desire 
 and hope to serve God faithfully for the time to 
 come, and to seek grace for so doing in the Holy 
 Supper, that I coiild not but promise to receive them, 
 and have fixed, accordingly, to-morrow morning, at 
 9 A.M., for the hour of holding my first Confirmation 
 in the Diocese of Natal. 
 
 I had much talk this evening with Capt. Struben, 
 who, being magistrate of the Klip River Division, has 
 had much experience among the Kafirs. He told 
 me that he was not unfrequently obliged to advance 
 the land-tax' (7s.) to a Kafir. " His boys," he would 
 say, "were at service, and had not yet come 
 home with their wages. If Capt. Struben would 
 advance the money to them, they would faithfully 
 repay it." Last year he had so lent to the amount of 
 16^. ; every penny of which had been repaid. 
 
 I gathered also some small items of evidence on 
 
 the much-disputed question of the gratitude of the 
 
 Kafirs. ' A gentleman told me that at Uys Dooms, 
 
 about five miles from Maritzburg, on the road to 
 
 ji 2
 
 164: TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Durban, a fire had taken place, and burnt down a 
 cottage, in which lived an English family. Riding 
 up to the door shortly after, he heard a great noise 
 of Kafir voices within — such a clatter and conten- 
 tion — that he could not tell what to make of it. 
 Presently, the Englishman came out, and said that 
 the Kafirs of the neighbourhood had brought him 
 bundles of reed to thatch his house with. He 
 wanted to pay them, but they would not be paid. 
 They said, " He had done them services before now, 
 and now it was their time." There lay the large 
 bundles, placed arovmd the hut by these insensible, 
 •ungrateful Kafirs. 
 
 There is, I hear, an old Dutch dame in ]\Iaritz- 
 bvirg, who has always a good word to say for the 
 Kafirs. In early times, before the Dutch came into 
 Natal, her husband was sent forward, as one of the 
 exploring party, to examine the land. Near the 
 bridge of Uys Dooms, he shot some elands; and 
 finding there the headman of a party of Kafirs, 
 whose cattle and crops had all been ravaged by 
 Dingaan's armies, and who were literally starving, 
 he told them where the animals lay, and bade them 
 go and eat them — which they did, but very econo- 
 mically, making them last a long time, until their 
 wants were supplied with the return of the season. 
 In fact, they were saved from utter misery and 
 death by this act of kindness — and they never for- 
 got it. But, when the Dutch emigrants came in 
 great force into the colony, and, not being suffi- 
 ciently supplied with food for their large numbers,
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. " 1G5 
 
 were themselves at one time iu much distress, while 
 they lived iu their camp, before the town was 
 fouuded, this Kafir headman came one day with a 
 large bowl of mealies, and inquired for the Dutch- 
 man. He was directed to his tent; but, on his way, 
 was solicited to sell, and offered large payment for 
 his mealies. No ! he must find his old friend, the 
 Dutchman, and so he did, and poured out the 
 mealies at the feet of his wife, refusing to receive 
 any remuneration for them. Nor was this all ; but, 
 every two or three days, he came back again with a 
 similar present, and continued it, until the Dutch 
 too were able to get over their difficulties, and sup- 
 ply the wants of their families. 
 
 I met again at dinner Capt. Shelley, who has been 
 travelling in the interior, and gone through some 
 terrible scenes. On one occasion, being without 
 water, and the case of his party becoming hourly 
 more desperate, he determined to take his horses, and 
 ride each one in turn, until it fell exhausted ; and 
 in this way, if I remember rightly, no fewer than 
 seven were killed, when at length he found water, 
 and returned to learn that his company had been 
 refreshed with abundant rain, very shortly after he 
 had left them. His journals will probably be pub- 
 lished, and cannot but be very full of interest. 
 
 Sunday, March 5. — This morning the Dutchman 
 and his wife were confirmed, and received the Com- 
 munion at the mid-day service, with eleven other 
 residents of this village and neighbom-hood. In the 
 morning the military — at least, about ten or twelve,
 
 IGG TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 
 
 the English-speaking portion of them — attended 
 Divine Service, <and the whole congregation may 
 have amounted to sixty adults. In the afternoon 
 the soldiers were absent; but the congregation was 
 even larger, and seven children were baptized, 
 including four of the Dutchman's. 
 
 Jantjee's horse, I am sorry to say, is dead. It 
 was overworked yesterday, and appears to have died 
 of fatigue, not of the sickness. 
 
 Monday, March 6. — Another troop-horse is dead 
 of the sickness. One which I saw ill on Saturday 
 appears to be recovering. This sickness appeal's to 
 be confined to low grounds, and when a damp, ccld, 
 misty moisture spreads over the surface. Horses 
 get on quite well, if sent up, as ours have been, to 
 the heights which surround the town. We intended 
 to have started for Maritzburg to-day; but it has 
 set in to heavy, continued, rain, and there is no 
 moving. God be praised for the mercy which has 
 attended me on my journey, so that I have not lost 
 one single day, (except with our wagon-affair at 
 starting,) nor suffered any inconvenience from wet 
 or weather, (except feeling the heat sometimes, while 
 riding in the middle of the day, to be rather more 
 powerful than pleasant,) till now, when I have seen 
 all that I care to see, and have only to return to 
 the city, which can be done easily, even if the rivers 
 should be swollen, as there are boats over all of 
 them except the Klip River, on the main-road 
 between this and Maritzburg, by which we shall go. 
 
 Held a meeting this mornino- with the inhabitants
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 1G7 
 
 about their proposed Church, at which great una- 
 nimity and heartiness prevailed, and a Subscription 
 List was opened and very hopefully filled up. Lot- 
 tering, the Dutchman, came with a sum of money, 
 small in itself, but for him considerable, and said, 
 that " being a stranger to our customs, he had not 
 brought any money for the Offertory on Sunday ; but 
 he wished this to be added to the sum then con- 
 tributed," which was to go towards the building of 
 the Church. 
 
 4 P.M. — Yesterday it was hot, with a dry, hot 
 wind from the interior. To-day it has been pouring- 
 all day long, and the rivers will, no doubt, be con- 
 siderably increased ; and it has become so cold, that 
 we are quite glad of Mrs. Struben's fire. Her bro- 
 ther, Mr. Field, told me that he had never seen a 
 more decided winter-scene in England, than he had 
 witnessed here last winter. 
 
 Mr. Shepstone gave me an amusing account of 
 the manner in which one of the party of Zulus, who 
 were exhibited in London last year, had discoursed 
 to some of his black brethren in Natal aboxit the 
 wonders of England. He had been sent back before 
 the rest, on account of his health ; and he was heard 
 by Mr. S. dilating at great length upon the subject 
 to Ngoza and some ten of his men, and with such 
 simplicity and earnestness, that they could not but 
 believe his story, strange as it appeared to them. 
 " You have become an old man," they said. He 
 fipoke of railways. " They fastened together twenty 
 great wagons, heavily laden, and then they tied on
 
 1G8 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 
 
 in front a little strong bull, and then they let him 
 go ; and off they went at such a rate, that, if he had 
 been let go by himself, he -did not know where he 
 would have got to." "London was so big that he 
 never saw the end of it. And he was quite troubled 
 to know what would become of it. People, and 
 cattle, and wagons, were always coming in, but he 
 never saw any going out;" the fact being, no doubt, 
 that he and his companions were only taken to walk 
 in the Park at the early hour of 10 a.m., when few 
 would be about to see them ; and thus he had drawn 
 a vei'v proper inference from the fact, that he always 
 saw at that hour the stream of life pouring in to 
 London. " They had got a bridge over the great 
 Ptiver, and they had got boats to cross it; but they 
 were not content with that — they must have a hole 
 to go under it (the Thames Tunnel)." " Why was 
 that?" he was asked. "He did not know; he sup- 
 posed it was, because they would have it." " He had 
 seen a ship (the Great Britain) which would hold 
 the whole of Panda's army." This staggered them 
 a little; but he got over the difficulty by talking 
 about one deck over the other, until their poor in- 
 tellects were quite confused, and they gave in, and 
 believed him. He saw Her Majesty the Queen. 
 " When she was in a room, she was very much like 
 any other umFazi; but when she came out among her 
 people, then he saw that she was Queen of them all; 
 for they took off their hats to her, and, where there 
 was no room for hi7n or anybody else, they soon made 
 plenty of room for her.'" " There was something very
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 1G9 
 
 "wonderful up pezulu — high in the clouds. It was 
 continually going, going, going, making a sound. 
 He supposed it must be the amaTongo — spirits of 
 the dead." Mr. S. imagines that he must have meant 
 bells. Certainly he could never have heard a peal 
 of bells in Natal, and I fear it must be long before 
 we can hope to have the sweet home-music there. 
 God grant that the time may not be very far distant, 
 when the sound of the single bell, at least, sum- 
 moning the natives to worship or to school, shall be 
 heai'd in every thickly-peopled valley of the land. 
 
 Ttiesday, March 7. — As we anticipated, the river 
 is very full, and, having a considerable descent, is 
 running very rapid and strong. At about 10, a.m., 
 however, our ten oxen took the wagon across with 
 great spirit, amidst the deafening shouts and screams 
 of the Kafirs. The wagon was almost empty, all the 
 lighter articles having been taken over, on the heads 
 of strong, swimming Kafirs. The water rose in it, 
 jDerhaps, a foot ; but our remaining goods were raised 
 on the benches, and so were uninjured. At 3, p.m., I 
 took leave of my kind hostess — now, alas ! no more 
 — and started with Capt. Struben. We had to ride 
 through the river at the drift, in which process I 
 got thoroughly wetted up to the knee, in spite of 
 all my care, but met no further accident. Mr. S. 
 had to remain behind to wait for his horse, which 
 had not been caught. But we are getting very 
 anxious about all our horses. Jantjee's is dead, and 
 to-day old Grootkop has been sickening. Two of 
 the troop-horses have died since we have been here.
 
 170 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 .and two more have sickened this morning. The dis- 
 ease prevails most in the mimosa or thorn country. 
 
 We rode on over Capt. Struben's farm, and 
 just about dusk reached the Tukela, at a different 
 drift from that by "which "we crossed it before. 
 The "waters "were very high and broad. It "was quite 
 impossible to cross it at this time of the evening ; 
 and "we found our "wagon, "which had gone round by 
 the main road, out-spanned on the side of it. We "were 
 entertained at the house of Mr. Watson, a trader, 
 "who, "with his assistant, Mr. Solomon, had attended 
 the service at Doornkop. From Mr. W. I gathered 
 several pieces of interesting information. " The state 
 of things in Natal was wonderfully changed from 
 what it had been two years ago. Then he left 
 Maritzburg, fearing an universal bankruptcy. He 
 held 700?. in bills of the best merchants in the 
 colony, whose money was perfectly sure; but he 
 could not have got IQl. advanced upon them. Now 
 money was free and plentiful; and, instead of every 
 one grumbling as then, every one now was putting 
 his shoulder to the wheel, and making the best of 
 his circumstances." " He had sold as much as 1000?. 
 worth of goods in one day — chiefly to Boers, who 
 would send their wagons down, at a certain time, for 
 their yearly stock. In fact, he could not get his 
 goods up from the Bay fast enough for his Avants." 
 I saw excellent bituminous coal piled in his yard, 
 the produce of the colony, which could be had at 
 the place where it was found for nothing, but cost 
 in land-carriage so much, that it sold for 15?. a ton
 
 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 171 
 
 in Maritzburg. " The Boers," he said, '' were sure 
 to pay, though rather slow — not in money, perhaps, 
 but in cattle or goods, which he could turn to ac- 
 count." " He had never had the slightest difficulty 
 with the Kafirs." He had a capital stone kraal, 
 which would hold 400 cattle, and had been built by 
 a party of Mantatees for 51., but was worth 100^. 
 Slept this night in the tent, under cover of which, 
 however, my blankets and pillow were wet with dew 
 in the morning. 
 
 Wednesday, 21 arch 8. — The great business was 
 to get the wagon across the Tukela. This was 
 accomplished by taking it to j)ieces, and so car- 
 rying it over in the ferry-boat, which always lies 
 for use at this place. Then oui* oxen, nineteen in 
 number, (including five, which Ngoza and Jantjee 
 had picked up as pi'esents on the way,) were driven 
 into the river, and swam nobly across. Nest fol- 
 lowed our horses, headed by old Grootkop, who 
 seemed better this morning, having been tied up all 
 night with the rest to the back of the wagon, and 
 supplied with forage, instead of being allowed to 
 graze. But my own horse shows signs of weakness 
 now; and very glad shall we be when we are fairly 
 out of this dangerous country. Last of all, we were 
 taken over in the boat, with many of our Kafirs, 
 who were not swimmers. For the whole afl^iir, I had 
 to pay the sum of 35s. to the ferryman. 
 
 It was very pleasant to see the remarkable clean- 
 liness of our body of Kafirs, who were mostly Zulus 
 —Ngoza having been a soldier under Dingaan when
 
 172 TEN WEEKS IN XATAL. 
 
 a boy, while Jantjee served against him under the 
 Dutch. Tijey sat by the river-side, washing and clean- 
 ing themselves thoroughly, head, face, and limbs, 
 with soap, and taking as much pains with their 
 person as any well-trained Englishman — rather more, 
 I fancy, than some of their white fellow-subjects 
 in this colony. The Kafirs, I am told, always rinse 
 their mouth after eating; and, if told to do any 
 job of work, invariably go, if they can, and wash 
 their hands before doing it. AVe saw one cross and 
 recross several times on the curious sort of reed-raft, 
 or floater, which they use in these rivers. It is 
 merely a bundle of reeds, about four feet long, 
 bound together in a conical form, the circular end 
 being, perhaps, eight or ten inches across, and the 
 Avhole tapering to a point. Near the broad end are 
 stuck in two forked sticks, on which may be sus- 
 pended clothes, parcels, &c., to be carried across. 
 The swimmer supports his breast on this end, the 
 other being, of course, tilted up, so as to point into 
 the air before him. Then, grasping with his hands 
 the lower parts of the two sticks, he strikes out with 
 his feet, and so pushes himself across, and carries over 
 dry the articles upon the forks. In this way they 
 will also carry a man across, or two, if the floater ba 
 long enough. He must sit astride, just where the 
 two sticks would otherwise be inserted, and clasp 
 with his arms the upper part of the bundle, and then 
 resign himself to the Kafir, who will come behind, 
 as before, and push him across. 
 
 We were witnesses here of the exceedingly small
 
 TEN "ft'EEKS IN NATAL. 173 
 
 value, which some of our Dutcli friends set iipou thci 
 article of time. A wagon had come down to the 
 side we had just left, laden with Indian corn, thrown 
 in loose in the grain. This corn was to be first 
 carried over in the boat, and then the wagon was to 
 follow. I saw the first boat-load of grain come over. 
 It appeared that they had borrowed a bag or two 
 from some one on the other side, into which some of 
 the corn had been passed from the wagon, for convey- 
 ance over the river, in order, I suppose, to avoid a 
 wastage in the boat. How the bags had been Jilled, 
 I cannot say ; but they were emptied in the most 
 tedious manner, by four Kafirs, who, with the help 
 of a bucket and a common iron saucepan or melting- 
 pot, ladled the grain out of the bags as they lay in 
 the boat, and then carried their burdens a few yards 
 off, and deposited them upon a sheet spread out on 
 the shore. And this process was to be carried on 
 with all the contents of the wagon ! and then the 
 wagon was to be filled again ! I must say, I was 
 rather glad we had been first at the river-side this 
 morning. 
 
 It was 11 A.M. before we could get off, having 
 packed a few necessaries in our saddle-bags, and 
 leaving our wagon to follow at leisure — as we hope 
 to reach Maritzburg on Thursday; but the wagon 
 cannot arrive before Saturday. We had a plea- 
 sant ride of four or five hours to the Bushman's 
 Eiver, passing on the way the spot where Dingaan's 
 army (see Introduction) first fell upon the defenceless 
 camp of Pieter Eetief, after the dreadful massacre of
 
 174 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Retief himself and the finest warriors of his party, 
 with many of their sons and servants — in all one 
 hundred jDersons — whom he begaiiled into his kraal, 
 under the pretence of giving them possession of the 
 District of Natal. Their women and children, with 
 the other male occupants of this camp, utterly un- 
 conscious of what had happened, were suddenly 
 surprised by the Zulu army, and a second and still 
 more horrible butchery ensued. Only two or three 
 of the whole body escaped with life. Many were 
 killed on the spot : the rest attempted to fly across 
 a little spruit hard by, to join another body of their 
 Dutch friends, encamped at the Bushman's Kiver. 
 But they were soon overtaken, and every one slain. 
 Four years ago their short course could easily be 
 traced, Mr. Shepstone told me, by the bones which 
 lay scattered about. But the great mass of them lies 
 buried by their sorrowing countrymen under a heap 
 of stones, and the others have now been mostly con- 
 sumed by the annual fires. The other camps got 
 notice of the attack, and were on their guard. 
 
 The Buslimaiis River derives its name, I believe, 
 from having been formerly the point, at which the 
 Bushmen from beyond the mountains made their 
 sudden inroads into the district, and carried off large 
 numbers of cattle. The descent to it was veiy grand, 
 from the vastness of the scenery all around. We saw 
 the remains of a stone building, once used as a kind 
 of fortress, to guard against the depredations of 
 these diminutive, but destructive, freebooters, whose 
 arrows, poison-tipped, carried death wherever they
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 175 
 
 came. The house of refreshment at this river, kept 
 by Mr. and Mrs. Nixon, deserves a special commen- 
 dation, as being singularly neat and clean. It was 
 quite a temptation to stop and spend the night 
 there, from the appearance of the bedroom and 
 everything about the house. The day, however, 
 was not sufficiently advanced for this ; so, crossing 
 the river in the boat, and driving our horses ovei-, 
 we rode on to the Mooi River. 
 
 On the way, Mr. Shepstoue drew my attention to 
 the singular stuff upon the Mimosa-thorn, whicli I 
 have before mentioned as the material, out of which 
 the Zulu-Kafirs construct their curious head-rings. 
 It is a white, creamy, glutinous matter, formed, I 
 am told, by the larva of the large fly, which shrieks 
 so disagTeeably in the willow-trees at Maritzburg. 
 The appearance of the thorn is like that of a sea- 
 stone, covered with small white spots of coralline; 
 only here the substance is quite soft, and, when the 
 juice is pressed out, there remains a white, thick, 
 resinous matter, which flames in the fire, and with 
 which they twine up their hair and grass together 
 into the ring. We passed the postman — a solitary 
 Kafir — on foot, with his bags on his back, who at any 
 rate was counted by the Government faithful enough 
 to be trusted with this precious charge, without fear 
 of miscarriage. Between the Bushman's River, how- 
 ever, and ]\Iaritzburg, where the ground is high, and 
 the temperature often very cold, there are two Kafirs, 
 who keep each other company, lest one should perish 
 with the wet or cold. Not long ago, in flxct, the two
 
 176 TEN -WEEKS IN NATxS.L, 
 
 men were overtaken by a storm ; and, while one tried 
 to make his way forward, the other more wisely crept 
 into a large ant-eater's hole, and there remained all 
 night till the morning. The latter escaped without 
 harm; but his poor companion died of misery. I 
 must endeavour to get some of our kind friends in 
 England to send us presents of flannel for the na- 
 tives. They feel the cold extremely. Even this very 
 day — in the middle of summer — we met a wagon, 
 the leader of which (a man leading the first pair of 
 oxen) had died upon the road from the cold of last 
 Iklonday's rain. As there is so much wool in the 
 colony, it would be very desirable to introduce 
 among them, if possible, the art of manufacturing 
 it into articles of wearing apparel. 
 
 When we got upon the high grounds, a thick, chilly 
 mist at times enveloped us, and prevented our seeing 
 Inuch of our way before us. It is, of course, some- 
 what hazardous to travel under such circumstances, 
 except when the marks of the path are very decided 
 and unmistakeable. Under Mr. Shepstone's guid- 
 ance, however, I was safe ; and about eleven o'clock, 
 on a moonlight night, we reached the banks of 
 the Mooi River. Here Jantjee shouted lustily for 
 Gray, the ferry-man, to come across with his boat. 
 " AmaKose emFulini /" — " Gentlemen in the river !" 
 — I heard him crying with might and main ; but all 
 his repi'esentations of our dignities and difficulties 
 were of no avail. No movement could be elicited 
 on the other side. Mr. Shepstone and myself joined 
 our voices to his, and at length pi'oduced a reply.
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 177 
 
 Fortunately, one of our friends at Doornkop, Mr. 
 Geo. Moodie, with two other gentlemen, was sleep- 
 ing in the house, and, having been aroused by our 
 noise, had succeeded in knocking up the drowsy host, 
 who now came across with his boat. And then fol- 
 lowed an amusing skirmish between the bipeds and 
 quadrupeds of our l)arty. The object of the one 
 side was to drive the other into the river, that they 
 might swim across. But old Grootkop, on whom 
 we relied for taking the lead in the water, as he had 
 done at the Tukela, had made up his mind to re- 
 main where he was. He had quite shaken off his 
 sickness; the cold, almost frosty, air gave him life 
 and spirits ; and he galloped about the veldt in a 
 state of great enjoyment, and most perfect contempt 
 of our efforts to beguile or compel him into the 
 river. At last, after a fruitless racing to and fro 
 through the wet, dewy grass, we were obliged to give 
 it up, and leave it to Jautjee to get them over by 
 daybreak in the morning. We went across in the 
 boat; and here the old Scotch ferry-man made the 
 discovery that he had the Bishop on board. " Well 
 now," observed that worthy, " this is surprising r 
 here have I been reading Jeremy Taylor all da}^ to 
 prepare for the Bishop's coming, and here he is come 
 without my knowing it !" I pass over tlie events of 
 the night, except to say that a sofa was roughly 
 made up for me in a room, where the bed was 
 already occupied by another; and that, when the 
 day broke at length upon us, after au hour's un- 
 easy slumber, we were very glad to arise, and 
 
 N
 
 178 TEN "WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 hasten to the river - side for refreshment ' and 
 cleansing. 
 
 Thursday, March 9. — We started, after a cup of 
 coffee, intending to make a two hours' ride before 
 breakfast. The air of the morning was delicious; and 
 all day long it continued cool and pleasant, even when 
 the sun was up. But for the first time my lips felt 
 scorched and cracked. It was the mist of last evening 
 — not the heat of the sun — which had affected them. 
 We breakfasted at Turton's, near which we had a view 
 of some fragments of our crockeiy, scattered upon 
 the spot where our wagon had met with its disaster ; 
 and at last, after riding about 45 miles, came in 
 safety, thank God ! to JMaritzburg. I must not 
 omit to mention the delicious meal of milk and 
 bread-and-butter, all as sweet as could be, which 
 we enjoyed at the house of a settler named Eobinson 
 — the more acceptable to us, as, to say the truth, we 
 had fared not very sumptuously, since we left the 
 Bushman's River. We crossed the bridge over the 
 Umgeni, a famous work of art, built by the settlers 
 of the neighbom'hood at their own expense, and as 
 an example for the Government. 
 
 We came in sight of the city, on the top of the 
 long hill, which it took us full two hours to descend. 
 It was broad daylight when we stood upon the sum- 
 mit; but darkness had long closed in before we reached 
 the bottom. I have given up the idea of calculat- 
 ing distances with any precision in this country, 
 unless I can see the whole line of road between the 
 two points in question ; and even then it is most
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 179 
 
 probable that the estimate will fall far short of the 
 actual distance. The air here is so clear, and the 
 scenery so gigantic, that what appears to be a little 
 hillock turns out, on a closer approach, to be a good- 
 sized hill, while the hill becomes a mountain, and 
 the silvery brook at its bottom a deep and swift- 
 rushing river. 
 
 Perhaps our descent may have been made a little 
 longer by our having taken a shor-t cut, down the 
 new wagon-road. The path became at length some- 
 what dark and intricate ; but we reckoned ourselves 
 quite at home, and began to congratulate ourselves, 
 and to bless God for our deliverance from all dangers, 
 and even delays, upon our journey. Scarcely had 
 the words gone out of our mouths, when, with a 
 prodigious scramble, down went Mr. Shepstone's 
 horse, just in front of mine, and continued immove- 
 able. On getting off, and looking closely into the 
 matter, (for it was nearly dark,) we found that his 
 legs and shoulders had gone down into a hole, nearly 
 circular, and about two feet across, below which, at 
 a considerable depth, we could hear the rippling and 
 gurgliug of water. By main force, after several 
 fruitless efforts, he was pulled back at length from 
 his perilous position. Had the edges of the hole 
 given way, he might have gone down head foremost, 
 and Mr. Shepstone along with him. As it was, he re- 
 ceived uo injury; and another hour brought us safely 
 to our homes. 
 
 Friday and Saturday, March 10 and 11. — No 
 tidings yet of the mail from England, or of my party 
 n2
 
 180 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 from Capetown ! Was occupied chiefly in preparing 
 sermons for Sunday. 
 
 Sunday, JIarch 12. — In the morning, preached an 
 S. P. G. Sermon, on behalf of our Mission Insti- 
 tution, to a crowded schoolroom. Collection, 81. Is. 
 In the afternoon, addressed the candidates for Con- 
 firmation, of which notice had been given some weeks 
 ago, for next Friday. In the evening, I preached at 
 the camp. Tliis last service was particularly inte- 
 resting. The room was crowded with soldiers and 
 their wives, who came quite of their own accord ; for 
 it w^as a voluntary service. Several officers also 
 were present, and their example in the regiment is, 
 most beneficial. Altogether, the condition of the 
 troops is very encouraging ; and great gratitude is 
 felt and expressed by the men, for the faithful and 
 affectionate services of their devoted minister, 
 the Rev. J. D. Jenkins. After the general service, 
 at which I addressed the men, from Matt, vi., 
 on the duty and privilege of prayer, about twenty 
 remained behind, who were to be confirmed ; and 
 Mr. Jenkins catechised them. Their answers were 
 admirable, and showed how thoroughly well they 
 had been prepared for the solemn ceremony. 
 
 Mondmj, March 13. — Spent some hours this day 
 in consultation with Mr. Green about our future 
 proceedings here. Jantjee, with his brother and 
 about eight of his men and six women, came to salute 
 me — full of gratitude, for my having paid the value 
 of his dead horse, for the purchase of which, in fact, 
 he had gone in debt, and had just been arrested.
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 181 
 
 Tuesday, March 1-i, — Spent this day with IMr. 
 aud Mrs. Shepstone, and the Crown Prosecutor, Mr. 
 Harding, in inspecting the new mission ground, and 
 selecting a site for a house. 
 
 Wednesday, March 15. — This morning, at break- 
 fast, the sad news reached us of Dr. Stanger's serious 
 illness at Durban, with a request that Mr. Shepstone 
 and myself would come down at once and see him. 
 We started on horseback, about 10 a.m., and reached 
 Durban (fifty-two miles) that night, at 11. Mr. 
 Shepstone led one horse, which he mounted, when 
 half-way, and I, at the same place, borrowed another. 
 Here, however, we were met by the messenger from 
 Durban, riding up with the tidings of our dear friend's 
 death, which took place about half-an-hour after 
 the message was despatched to us last evening. It 
 was late when we crossed the Berea; and Mr. S., 
 I could see, looked rather anxiously around, as we 
 passed through the bush, in which many wild ani- 
 mals live, and elephants are found occasionally. We 
 met nothing, however ; and, on reaching Mr. Cato's, 
 had two sofas kindly made up for us. 
 
 Thursday, March \Q).- — This morning at daybreak, 
 just six weeks and a half after my landing, the Sir 
 Robert Peel came in with the January mails, and my 
 long-missing party. It was certainly a remarkable 
 coincidence, that I should have been brought down 
 here to meet them, though by so sad an event, only 
 a few hours before they came. I rode down directly 
 to the Point, at 6 a. m., went on board, and bi-ought 
 them on shore, — glad enough to escape from the
 
 182 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 .crowded and dirty vessel. Thank God for good 
 .tidings from England ! 
 
 I was occupied all the day with the fresh-comers, 
 and at 4 p. m. had the melancholy satisfaction of 
 reading the Burial Service over the body of my dear 
 friend. The whole town, with the Lieut. -Governor 
 and other ofl&cial persons, followed in the procession ; 
 and the solitary bell of the Wesleyan chapel sounded 
 the funeral knell. Our path lay through the whole 
 length of the town to the cemetery beyond it, which 
 the Church people of Durban have tended with pious 
 care, and made it really beautiful, with planting and 
 laying-out of paths. Under a magnificent tree, the 
 special object of his own admiration, the remains 
 of our brother were deposited, in hope of a joyful 
 resurrection. He was one of the very few sur- 
 vivors of the Niger Expedition, — one of the two, 
 indeed, who brought out of that pestilential river 
 the remnant of the ill-fated crew of the Albert, 
 Dr. Stanger having been obliged, for the first time in 
 his life, to manage the engine, and the other, Dr. Mc 
 William, to act as captain of the ship, as well as 
 wait upon the sick and dying. Tliey anchored eveiy 
 evening, and buried those, who by that time had died, 
 in the course of the night. Probably, upon that 
 occasion he contracted the seeds of the disease, by 
 which he was now carried off, after having most zea- 
 lously and ably discharged his duty in the colony, as 
 Surveyor-General, for the last four years. For my- 
 self and Mr. Shepstone, I may say that we loved 
 him, and have lost him, most truly, as a brother.
 
 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 183 
 
 Friday March 17. — Started early with Mr. Shep- 
 stoue, having arranged that the mule-wagon should 
 cany up my party to Maritzburg. The Lieut.- 
 Governor and Mr. Cato very kindly rode with us a 
 few miles on our way. As we passed over the Berea, 
 where everything was bright and beautiful in the 
 fresh morning air, we saw on the path the unmia- 
 takeable signs of leopards, which had been prowling 
 during the night. We reached Pinetown half-an-hour 
 before the wagon ; but, when it came up, found that 
 the violent jolting had been too much for Mrs. Wood- 
 row, who was quite in a sinking state. We stayed, 
 accordingly, some hours here, until she appeared 
 much revived, and expressed a'M'ish to proceed on 
 the journey. And so, at 3 p.m., Mr. S. having ar- 
 ranged the wagon more comfortably for her, we set 
 out again, and reached our next stage, Stirk Spruit, 
 easily and pleasantly, before dark. Unfortunately, 
 the little room at this house, (only just comparable 
 to an ordinary 2^ot-Jwuse in England,) was already 
 occupied by gTiests ; and, when we sat down to the 
 dinner of fowls and buck, somewhat coai'sely dressed, 
 there were eight altogether, including our two ladies 
 at the table. The old sofa, along the back of which a 
 score or so of ants were chasing each other, was pulled 
 away from the wall, in which they resided, to make 
 seats for some of the party. The sleeping accommo- 
 dation was certainly not of the choicest ; but the 
 landlord did his best, and the ladies had had some 
 experience in lodgings at Capetown and Wynberg, 
 and more on board the Feel.
 
 184 TEN WEEKS IX XATAL. 
 
 I had no time to lose, as I was engaged to be at 
 Richmond on Sunday morning. So, having made 
 what arrangements we could for our friends, and 
 giving them into the charge of a gentleman of the 
 party, Mr. S. and I rode off as soon as the moon 
 arose, at about 10 p.m., and travelled through the 
 night, reaching Maritzburg at daybreak. At one 
 place, about thirteen miles from town, we heard the 
 howl of a wolf, about a mile off. He was attracted 
 by our passing, and repeated eight or nine times his 
 hideous melancholy sounds, which I took, at first, 
 for the bellow of a distant bull. Otherwise, we 
 had no adventure, but made a cool and pleasant 
 j ourney. 
 
 I found Mr. Green's house giving abundant proofs 
 of the security in which people live here. The win- 
 dow of my room, which looked into one of the main 
 streets, was open, as it has been ever since I have 
 made his house my home ; and by this window I 
 stepped into the room, not wishing to disturb the 
 fiimily at so early an hour, and only hoping that no 
 sti'ay Kafir might witness the disappearance of my 
 form, and set me down for a thief Besides this, I 
 found the back door was always left open. 
 
 Saturday, March 18. — At 4 p.m. I started with 
 Mr. Robertson for Mr. M'Kenzie's, fourteen miles on 
 my way to Richmond. We rode out of town a mile 
 and a-half to the ford of the Little Bushman's River : 
 but the bank on this side was so steep, that our horses 
 refused to go in ; and, after a long contest with them, 
 we thought it best to retrace our steps, ride through
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 18-5 
 
 half the city, cross the bridge on the Durban road, 
 and then return across the veldt, on the oppo- 
 site side of the river, (which runs along the whole 
 length of the town on the Durban side,) to nearly 
 the same spot on the other side of the ford. This 
 was an extra ride of three miles, and it was so late 
 before we started, that we could ill afford the time. 
 But it was better than to run the risk of getting 
 head over ears into the river, as had happened very 
 recently to one of the magistrates. It became very 
 dark as we rode down the long hill, which lay nearly 
 at the end of our journey ; and then we had to 
 cross the Ilovu. Happily, just at that time, it was 
 fordable without difficulty, and so we reached Mr. 
 M.'s, where we were hospitably welcomed for the 
 night. 
 
 Sundaif, March 19. — Started early after breakfast 
 for Richmond (twelve miles). As usual in this 
 colony, the eye ranged, during our ride, over almost 
 an incredible tract of country, hill after hill, like 
 wave after wave, rising in succession, all clothed with 
 verdure. Here and there herds of cattle were seen 
 feeding upon the abundant vegetation ; and one is 
 tempted to think, that half the herds of EurojDe 
 would not overstock the veldt of Natal. 
 
 " After passing over one of these hills," wiutes the 
 Rev. T. G. Fearne, the good pastor of Richmond, 
 (supported at present by the Gospel Propagation 
 Society,) " through the valley which opens before 
 you, you catch a distant glimpse of Richmond. On 
 one side of this vale, the hills gradually rise, un-
 
 18S TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 broken by cither shnib, tree, or rock, and covered 
 •with rich grass. The scene is very wild, but beautiful. 
 Here and there, through some woodless kloof, an 
 everflowing stream meanders, contributing its share 
 of the picturesque to the landscape, and adding 
 richness to the pasture. A goodly sight would be 
 these hills to hungry herds, and not less to the 
 ploughman, to whose labours they offer no obstacle, 
 and whose toil they would amply repay. On the 
 opposite side of the valley, the surface rises more 
 abruptly. The kloofs are deep and wooded, and now 
 and then a bold cliff rears its head, while here also 
 at its foot some brawling brook is rushing by." 
 
 Such was the scene which now met my eye. It was, 
 indeed, a very pretty sight to mark the little cottages 
 of this interesting village besprinkle at a distance, 
 perhaps, of two miles, the valley before me, and to 
 note the spot, where their small stone church was 
 rising, to crown the summit of a knoll above them. 
 We stopped at Mr. Fearne's little cottage, and then 
 rode about a mile and a-half further to the room, in 
 one of the settlers' houses, which was used as a place 
 of worship. Here I had the pleasure of confirming* 
 six persons, five of whom afterwards partook of the 
 Communion. One of them had walked twenty 
 miles to attend the Service ; and several of the con- 
 gregation had come a distance of eight miles. 
 Afterwards, we had another ride of eight miles to 
 Byrne, where I held a similar sei'vice in another large 
 cottage- room, and confirmed seven persons. We were 
 entertained for the night most kindly at Mr. Cooke's,
 
 TEX WEEKS IN KATAL. 187 
 
 Monday, March 20. — Mr. Robertson returned to 
 Maritzburg, while I rode over the village of Byrne 
 with Mr. Fearne, calling at every house, and making 
 the acquaintance of the people. This village derives 
 its name from that of a speculator, who does not 
 figure very creditably in the history of the colony, 
 but has nevertheless been the means of gi-eatly 
 benefiting it, by introducing a number of useful 
 emigrants. For want of due preparations being- 
 made, to transfer them at once to their little farms 
 on landing, many of these were thrown at first into 
 circumstances of great distress. Some of them have 
 since migrated to the gold-fields of Australia, dis- 
 gusted with Natal, and not sparing in their abuse of 
 it ^ but these were mostly the helpless and indolent, 
 who would have failed anywhere, and have probably 
 not much improved their condition by the change. 
 Others are now thriving by the results of their own 
 persevering industry ; and several are located in this 
 valley of Byrne, which runs up about three miles, 
 and terminates in a thickly-wooded kloof, abounding 
 with noble timber-trees. At the foot of this height, 
 we found a hearty old woodcutter, whose amount of 
 treasure, on landing three years and a-half ago, con- 
 sisted of a wife, five sons, and 4s, 6cZ. He has now 
 fifty head of cattle; and, besides attending to his 
 little farm, makes a very good business by felling 
 the wood, which he rents of the owner, being allowed 
 to use two saws on any part of it, on condition of 
 paying annually a certain amount of timber. The 
 woods of this colony are some of them very beautiful,
 
 18S TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 
 
 and the trees of magnificeat dimensions. I saw in a 
 humble shed at Maritzburg handsome chairs of yel- 
 low-wood, made by a resident at 35s. each, that would 
 not have disgraced a London upholsterer. In this 
 wood I saw trees which were 3^ feet in diameter, 
 and from thirty to forty feet long, containing, any 
 one of them, two loads (1,600 cubic feet) of timber. 
 There is great difficulty, of course, at present, in 
 moving such masses over our rough roads ; but time 
 will lessen this. In one garden I found apple-trees 
 twelve feet high, and bearing, which were slips only 
 three years ago. Vines bear in three years, peaches 
 in two or three. One settler's wife told me that " in 
 England she had suffered much from inflammation 
 of the liver, with constant violent cough, all which 
 had gone since she came to Natal." 
 
 After this visitation, I met the people of Byrne, 
 to consider what measures could be taken, to build 
 them a little church. All were unanimous, and 
 very hearty, in their desire and determination, if 
 possible, to build one. The only difficulty was to 
 fix upon a site, of which three or four were readily 
 offered. The centre of the valley, however, would 
 be a mile and a half from the extremities — a con- 
 siderable distance in a coimtry like this, where more 
 than one sluit would have to be crossed in that 
 interval, which half an hour's rain might make im- 
 passable. I was told of one settler's wife, who was 
 coming down the little valley, and had reached 
 within a mile of her home, when she came to a 
 sluit. It had begun to rain heavily, however, and
 
 TEX 'WEEKS IN NATAL. 189 
 
 her Kafirs, always shrinking from rain, had run 
 somewhither for shelter. She had presence of mind 
 to wade at once through the rivulet, and so reached 
 her home, though dripping with water. But in. 
 fifteen minutes the brook was impassable. 
 
 The site, after much discussion, was amicably 
 settled, and it was agi-eed to build a little chapel, 
 which should cost 100^., and towards which the 
 villagers promised to contribute 50/., in wood, stone, 
 and labour. I have arranged that a small ves- 
 try should be added, supplied with a bed and other 
 conveniences for the clergyman — a kind of Prophet's 
 chamber, which he might occupy at any time, inde- 
 pendent and secure from annoyance, whenever he 
 wished to visit the people of the neighbourhood, or 
 was detained by bad weather. 
 
 After this, we were most hospitably entertained 
 at a settler's, and then called at Mrs. McLeod's, 
 where the grenadilla passion-flower was clustering 
 all around the front of the little cottage, and hang- 
 ing its green or purple fruit among the glossy leaves 
 in profuse luxuriance. This creeper makes the best 
 of all arbours, being an evergreen, and growing very 
 rapidly, and being also free from insects, which do 
 not attack either the bud or the fruit. On our 
 way to Richmond, we called at the cottages of the 
 " Duke's people," as they ai'e styled, being emigrants 
 from the Duke of Buccleugh's pi-operty at Beaulieu, 
 near Southampton, who were most kindly assisted 
 by his Grace and other friends, when leaving Eng- 
 land some three years and a half ago, under Byrne's
 
 190 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 scheme, and were provided witli all necessary help 
 towards begmning their new life in this colony. 
 They were supplied with food for some months, im- 
 plements of agriculture, and seed-corn : and con- 
 veyed at once to their little farms of twenty acres. 
 The consequence is that, though exceedingly poor at 
 first, and compelled, as they told me, to " rough it," 
 they are now, almost without exception, flourishing, 
 as far as this world is concerned ; and, being pro- 
 vided with an excellent pastor in Mr. Fearne, they 
 Lave all their wants supplied, and gave me messages 
 to England, one after another, first of gratitude to 
 the Duke and others, who had rescued them from 
 pinching poverty, and placed them in a situation 
 where, by their own honest industry, they were 
 enabled to earn their bread in abundance, and then 
 to their own friends, that " nothing would induce 
 them to go back to England," — they "were per- 
 fectly content and happy in their new homes, and 
 only wished they could share their comforts with 
 those they had left behind." One sent by me a 
 little bundle of mealies of his own growing, with a 
 parcel of tobacco, and a present of IO5., to his father, 
 whom I remember to have shaken by the hand — a 
 fine old man, though bent and tottering with age — 
 before leaving England. His son has now sixteen 
 head of cattle, and two large plots of ground of his 
 own, well stocked with prime mealies and potatoes. 
 Another had twenty-two head of cattle — very fine 
 beasts — and two calves, a mare and foal, a wagon, 
 and seven or eight acres of mealies. He " was very
 
 .TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 191 
 
 tlaaukful to the Duke," and begged me to say that 
 *' his brother Joseph should come out too." A third 
 landed with a wife, seven children, and 10/. He 
 has now eleven acres under cultivation with mealies 
 and potatoes ; ten milch kine and ten oxen ; three 
 young heifers, a bull, and seven young calves j a 
 horse and cart ; two very fine hogs and five pigs ; 
 and " does not owe a penny in the world." It grew 
 dark as we reached Mr. Fearne's little cottage, and 
 heartily glad was I, after a cup of Mrs. Fearne's" tea, 
 and other choice refreshments which her kind hand 
 had provided, of a good night's rest under her 
 auspices, 
 
 Tuesday, March 21. — After breakfast, rode down 
 to inspect the progress of the little church, which is 
 being built at Richmond, aided by a gift of 100/. 
 from the Duke of Buccleugh, The walls and roof 
 will be completed for 200/. ; the former being built 
 without mortar. That article of many uses among 
 the Kafirs — cowduug — is employed, mixed with 
 clay, for a cement, and the building was further 
 sti'engthened by running large bind-stones right 
 through the wall, one for every square yard. Some 
 of the arches had been already turned, and showed 
 very careful workmanship on the part of the solitary 
 builder, a native of the valley, who did the whole 
 work. After visiting each of the scattered houses 
 of the little hamlet, and being much pleased with 
 the general contentment and cheerfulness which 
 seemed to pervade them, I met the inhabitants, to 
 take counsel with them as to the enclosing of the
 
 192 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 burial-ground and the fitting-up of the interior. 
 The utmost harmony prevailed, and it was very 
 pleasing to find how, under the wise and kind care 
 of their excellent pastor, Dissent had completely 
 vanished, and all the people of the valley, though 
 originally of different religious commimities, had 
 returned into cheerful and hearty conformity with 
 the mother Church of England. 
 
 About 2 P.M. I left Richmond with Mr. Fearne, 
 on my return to Maritzburg, calling, as we went, at 
 one other cottage, which he had left for our last 
 visit, partly because it coidd be taken on our way 
 out of the valley, but partly, also, I suspect, be- 
 cause he wished me to carry off the most favourable 
 impression of his people, by showing me what a 
 cottage-garden may be in Natal, with very little 
 exertion on the part of its occupier. It was, in- 
 deed, a charming and refreshing sight ; and such 
 might be the enjoyment of many a poor villager, 
 spending his days in ill-requited toil in England, if 
 he could but find his way to this land. 
 
 We reached Mr. McKenzie's farm easily by 4 p.m.; 
 but it set in for rain as we approached it. How- 
 ever, I had still before me two good hours of day- 
 light, and having been promised by my friend a fi-esh 
 horse, had no fear of reaching town before nightfall. 
 Unfortunately, the horse was not as fresh as he was 
 meant to have been; for, on account of a sudden 
 illness in the family, he had been ridden hard 
 thi-ough the previous night, and had got his foof; 
 into a hole while going at a good pace, and strained
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 193 
 
 it. I started, as soon as lie was saddled ; my friends 
 saw nie safe over the ford of the Ilovu ; and then, 
 for the first time, I rode alone in this wild country. 
 It rained rather heavily, as I proceeded ; but this 
 was of no consequence to me directly, as I had on a 
 good waterproof coat. But, indirectly, it aiTected 
 me very seriously, by very soon making the road as 
 slippery as ice. I was obliged to keep my horse at 
 a slow walk, and presently to dismount and lead 
 him ; and, what with his lameness and the state of 
 the path, my progress, I believe, would have been 
 much more rapid without him. The result of 
 all this was, that it grew dusk just as I reached 
 the spot, about three miles fi-om ]\Iai'itzburg, where 
 the road branches off, in one direction to the awk- 
 ward ford of the Little Bushman's Eiver, before 
 noticed, and in another across the vley (marshy 
 common) to the bridge, by which the city is en- 
 tered from Durban, about the middle of one of 
 its longer sides. I pressed on now as fast as 
 the state of things would allow, (for the rain had 
 continued, almost without intermission,) because 
 I knew, from the experience I had had of it on 
 my way to Richmond on Saturday, that here it 
 was quite possible for me to lose the path. It was 
 indistinct at the best, passing at intervals through 
 high thick grass, which almost overtopped the head 
 of the rider, until it struck the high road from Dur- 
 ban, which would lead down directly to the bridge. 
 But the darkness came on more rapidly than I 
 could anticipate by riding ; and, the vley being all 
 o
 
 194 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 of one colour, wet and sloppy, I lost before long all 
 trace of the path ; and found myself presently, while 
 trying in all directions to recover it, encompassed 
 with thick darkness, so that I Could no longer see 
 my horse's head. It was useless to attempt to ad- 
 vance under these circumstances. One false step 
 might plunge him into a hole, or me into a ditch ; 
 and I knew there were streams enough on all sides, 
 and could hear the sound of running water in dif- 
 ferent directions. It was by this time about 7 p.m. ; 
 and I had the pleasant prospect of spending a very 
 long night in this condition. The town itself, it is 
 true, was only a mile or two off across the river, and 
 I had seen one or two of its lights as I came along. 
 But now all was pitch dark around me, and not a 
 sound was heard, but the plashing of the rain as it 
 fell, and the chirping of the frogs in the pools. 
 
 I made up my mind to my fate ; and, dismount- 
 ing, lay down upon the ground, to try my new bed, 
 — holding, however, my horse in hand, and suffer- 
 ing him to feed, but not unbridling or ofFsaddling, 
 lest, perchance, he might be wanted and not be at 
 hand. For I did not feel quite sure that there 
 might not be, prowling about the veldt, some stray 
 wild animal, hysena, jackal, panther, or wolf, whose 
 approach in the dead of night might disturb my 
 resting-place. After a while spent thus, and while 
 dozing off to sleep with the work of the day, I 
 heard, as I thought, the sound of a wagon descend- 
 ing the hill hard by, from Durban to Maritzburg. 
 It was a very imlikely thing, indeed, that a wagon
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 195 
 
 should be travelling at this late hour, or rather iu 
 such rain and darkness, (for they often go in clear 
 moonlight nights j) but, as I listened, I seemed to 
 hear the sound distinctly — not of the wheels, in- 
 deed, but of the driver's voice, lecturing and scold- 
 ing his oxen, as usual, of whom the worst is gene- 
 rally by the Dutchmen called England, and gets 
 more than an ordinary shai-e of abuse and beating. 
 Yes ! again and again the sound struck upon my 
 ear — "England ! England !" I got up at once, and 
 mounted, and urged my hoi'se cautiously forward in 
 the gloom some fifty or sixty yards towards it. Alas I 
 it was but the sonorous croaking of a distant frog, and 
 my hope of a comfortable bed was as far off as ever. 
 The rain, however, had now ceased, and there was 
 a little more light, enough to allow the ground to 
 be seen immediately before me — but no further. 
 After one more ineffectual attempt to find the path, 
 I let my horse have his head; and he at once turned 
 round, and stalked cautiously, but resolutely, back, 
 in the opposite direction from that in which, as I 
 thought, the path must lie. His very evident ac- 
 quaintance with the locality encouraged me con- 
 siderably, more particularly when he brought me 
 suddenly within sight of four strong lights, which 
 gleamed full upou me from some quarter of the 
 town, and at no great distance. On still he plodded, 
 now approaching the lights, now turning somewhat 
 aside from them ; till, at last, to my dismay, he 
 bore me straight away from them, and soon placed 
 a mound of rising ground between me and my 
 o2
 
 196 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 constellation. It was useless to turn bis head ; when 
 left to himself, he immediately turned again, and 
 pursued his way, through mud and marsh, and over 
 sluits, which he crossed with great precision, and 
 always with due consideration as to the best points 
 for taking them. It was plain he was bound some- 
 whither ; and at last, after about three miles of this 
 work, he stopped suddenly at the door of a cottage, 
 which I recognised in the dim light as one which 
 I had passed that evening in my way \ip the river to 
 Maritzburg. I knocked up the owner, who by this 
 time (nine p. m.) was gone to bed ; and got from him, 
 in a strong Yorkshire dialect, full directions for the 
 road. But they were so complicated with turnings 
 to the right and to the left — with instructions to 
 take this, and to take care of that — that I was 
 obliged to ask him to put on his clothes, and come 
 and show me the way into the Durban-road, To 
 this he assented very cheerfully ; and in about ten 
 minutes we started, my fi-iend running before and 
 leading the horse, through many a plashy place and 
 muddy puddle, which it must have been very un- 
 pleasant for himself to wade through. He told me 
 that " he had come out with nothing, but was flourish- 
 ing now by his industry " — that " any scheme of emi- 
 gration, by which a steady, honest, poor man from 
 England could be brought out to this country, set 
 down at once upon a small allotment of his own — 
 say twenty acres — with right of commonage — and 
 supplied with seeds and implements, and food for 
 liis family for six or twelve months — would certainly
 
 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL, 197 
 
 ausv/er, and be the greatest blessing imaginable. All 
 the outlay could be repaid in three years, and the 
 man be making a little fortune." 
 
 After conducting me thus for a mile or more, my 
 friend assured me that " the road could not now be 
 missed — a little in advance I should find a turn to 
 the left — the horse would infallibly take it — in fact, 
 there was no other — and that would bring me 
 straight down into the road from Durban." I bade 
 him good night, and proceeded once more by my- 
 self. We soon came to what appeared to be a turn- 
 ing to the left — followed it a little way — hesitated 
 — stopped — turned round — and in five minutes 
 were as completely at a stand-still as ever. In 
 vain I shouted for my Yorkshire guide : he was 
 already out of hearing. I could do nothing but 
 let my horse try to find his way back again to the 
 cottage. This time, however, he took a different 
 route, and marched away out of sight of ail the 
 lights of the town, which, provokingly enough, had 
 been visible of late all the while across the river, and 
 were, as I afterwards learned, the lights of the camp, 
 intended to guide any stragglers home. Had there 
 been but a red light over the bridge, it would have 
 very greatly assisted me. Now I was carried away 
 through the hills, mile after mile, till at last we 
 reached a plot of mealie-ground, which I remem- 
 bered to have seen on my way up in the early part 
 of the evening, some two or three miles further 
 down than the Yorkshireman's. My nag was evi- 
 dently plodding his way home to the Ilovu.
 
 198 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Here I once more dismounted, and allowed him 
 another feed. It was now, I suppose, about midnight, 
 and all escape from my difficulties seemed hopeless 
 imtil the morning. However, I mounted again, and, 
 refusing to let the animal go down the stream any 
 further, I gave him his head in any other direction. 
 He took me straight up over a grassy- hill, and 
 brought me very soon to the entrance of a Kafir 
 kraal. The dogs began to bark, and give notice 
 of my arrival. All remained still, however, among 
 the human inhabitants ; and if I wished to be any 
 the better for being brought into their vicinity, it 
 was necessary that I should call into my service all 
 the little stock of Kafir I possessed, and make the 
 most of it. So I began with shouting, " umFana ! 
 umFana ! — Young man ! young man ! " Presently, 
 amidst the noise of the dogs, was heard an indis- 
 tinct growl from the interior of the nearest hut ; and, 
 in a few minutes, the piece of wood or wickerwork, 
 which served as a door, was i-emoved, and out came 
 a tall Kafir, just roused from his slumbei's, and 
 hastily wrapped in a blanket. 
 
 But, now that I had caught my hare, how was I to 
 cook it 1 Very fortunately, Mr. Shepstone had once 
 told me, that the Kafir name for Maritzburg was the 
 same as that of Dingaan's old capital, which it re- 
 placed in importance — though not in situation — as 
 the chief town of the district ; and this I knew 
 from my old Missionary readings was Umkunging- 
 hlovu. So, putting on a bold face, I began with my 
 black friend, " Eu-jn umKunginghlovu ? — Where is
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 199 
 
 Maritzburg ? " I suppose my Kafir question was 
 perfect ; for, taking \ip mywords, "Kic-pi uniKung- 
 inghlovu V he forthwith proceeded with a long, and, 
 I dare say, very exact description of the way to that 
 young city, not a word of which, unfortunately, was 
 intelligible to me. I shook my head, and tried 
 another sentence : " Bamha iHashe — lay hold of the 
 horse." Standing at a most respectful distance, 
 with outstretched arm and hesitating fingers, he 
 took hold of the bridle, which I stretched out to 
 him, and again delivered himself of a long address 
 in Kafii', telling me, I fancy, that he was uncom- 
 monly afraid of horses, and would much rather have 
 nothing to do with them. I thought Mr. Shepstone's 
 great name might be of use, in procuring special 
 attention to my necessities ; so very solemnly pro- 
 nounced the word, " Somseu," his Kafir designation. 
 The word took eflfect as I expected, but only to pro- 
 cure me another long speech, in which he coupled 
 together the words Somseu and umKunginghlovu, 
 and, I suppose, took the trouble to inform me that 
 Mr. Shepstone was a citizen of Maritzburg, and 
 when I got there I should find him. My case was 
 getting desperate : but I began once more, " inHlela 
 TcumKunginghlovu ? — the path to Maritzburg 1 " 
 Whereupon he stood up erect, and, with a majestic 
 sweep of his arm, indicated the hills under which 
 I was to take my way, and under which, in fact, I 
 had been wandering up and down all the night. 
 My object was, of course, if possible, to get the 
 Kafir to go before me, and show me the path. So
 
 200 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 setting my liorso in motion, I said, "Famhile — go iu 
 front," which he did, and stepped down the grassy 
 slope, telling me all the while, I suspect, that " he 
 was rather sick, and wovild much rather not go very 
 far that night." It was useless to trouble him fur- 
 ther ; so I looked for sixpence for him. Alas ! I 
 had only half-a-sovereign, and two-pence. I gave 
 him the latter sum, to which he growled, I am sorry 
 to say, very unmistakeable Kafir ; but I could only 
 shake my purse at him, and exhaust my store of 
 Kafir, by saying, " i^t^e / File! Dead! Dead!" I 
 could hear him repeating, mournfully, the word, as 
 I rode slowly away. (This word, Jile, is used by the 
 Kafirs in all sorts of ways, to express failure of some 
 kind or other. When the moon is changing and 
 disappears, it is Jile ; if a necklace is broken, it is 
 Jile, spoiled ; if a dish, cup, or chair is shattered — 
 for accidents will happen with Kafir as well as En- 
 glish hands, — it is reported as Jile. One day a mes- 
 senger, who had travelled all night on my account 
 in wet and cold, came to mc with piteous air to ask 
 for scojf (food), because, he said, " his stomach was 
 Jile." But I doubt if the word had been applied to 
 an empty purse before.) 
 
 I was now once more upon my travels, and by my 
 own reckoning, about one o'clock of a cloudy moi'n- 
 ing, and some five miles from Maritzburg. My jaded 
 beast plodded on, and after an hour or so brought 
 me to the edge of the drift, which I dared not 
 attempt alone in the darkness, though I should no 
 longer have cared for a wetting, had the light been
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 201 
 
 sufficient to make it safe for us to attempt to ford it. 
 Having reached tlie river bank, however, I resolved 
 to try to feel my way along it, until at last I might 
 reach the bridge, which must cross it somewhere. 
 For some distance I proceeded without difficulty ; 
 but after a while found myself entangled in a large 
 bed of very tall osiers, through which my poor 
 horse laboriously forced his way, but only to con- 
 vince me at last, that I had been making with so 
 much difficulty the circuit of a small peninsula, 
 which the river had formed with its windings. 
 Alas ! the mazes of this marsh were like those of 
 a Christmas puzzle. On — still on — I wandered, my 
 weary steed, which had been nearly twelve hours 
 under me, di-agging heavily one leg after another, 
 till, at length, about four a.m., I found my way into 
 the long-sought Durban-road, and was greeted with 
 a friendly and sonorous acclamation, as I crossed the 
 bridge, by all the cocks of ]\Iaritzbui-g. 
 
 Wednesday/ and Thursday, March 22 and 23. — 
 Employed in various matters of business at Maritz- 
 burg. Took my leave of my kind host and hostess, 
 Mr. and Mrs. Green, who had done everything to 
 make me feel myself "at home," though so many 
 thousand miles away from England, and from those 
 I had left behind there : and removed for a few days 
 to Mr. Shepstone's, on his invitation. 
 
 Friday, March 24. — Confirmation at Maritzburg. 
 Sixty candidates were confirmed, of whom thirty-four 
 were soldiers of the 45th. It was a deeply interesting 
 occasion, the school-room being thronged outside and
 
 202 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 inside, witli the inhabitants of all classes. But very 
 many were excluded for want of room ; and it was 
 a distressing thing to be compelled to refuse admis- 
 sion to almost tlie whole of the military at the 
 camp, — of whom there are 400, besides their wives 
 and children — because our miserable room would not 
 hold more than 250. The worst is, as I have already 
 mentioned, that the new church, when finished on its 
 present plan, will only hold 270 people; and, where 
 we shall obtain help for enlarging it, I know not. 
 One or two Kafirs looked in; but alas! no room for 
 them, or any of their kind. 
 
 It added greatly, I think, to the solemnity of the 
 occasion, that each candidate was accompanied, as 
 the Ptubric directs, by a god-parent, or witness of 
 the renewal of his baptismal vow, who brought him 
 up to the commiinion-rails, and stood behind him 
 during the ceremony. 
 
 Saturday, March 25. — Another most interesting 
 occasion — the consecration of the inilitary burial- 
 ground at the camp. The soldiers had vied with 
 each other in preparing it — Protestants of all deno- 
 minations, and Roman-Catholics, labouring together, 
 with considerable exertion and some expense, to 
 put it in order. After service in one of the large 
 barrack-rooms, the troops were marched down under 
 arms, and drawn up around the cemetery — where, 
 happily, no such miserable distinctions are kept up, 
 as in the common city burial-grounds ; but the 
 bones of the Christian soldier — whether Churchman, 
 Dissenter, or Roman-Catholic — are laid amicably,
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 203 
 
 side by side, in their last resting-places. After the 
 usual service of consecration, three rounds of mus- 
 ketry were fired over the graves of their dead com- 
 rades, and " God save the Queen " was played by the 
 military band ; and then I took my formal leave of 
 the excellent Colonel Cooper and the other officers of 
 the 45th, from whom I had received so mvich hearty 
 kindness throughout the whole of my stay in Natal. 
 
 Sunday, March 26. — This day the Rev. R. Robert- 
 son was ordained as Deacon. The school-room was 
 crowded, as usual, inside and out; but it is misery to 
 send such multitudes away on any great and solemn 
 occasion like this, and to have no hope of a remedy 
 for this evil, as matters now stand. [Since my return 
 to England, I have applied to the Christian Know- 
 ledge Society for an additional grant, such as is often 
 given, I believe, for Cathedral Churches. But, partly 
 from the deficient state of the Society's funds, partly, 
 I fear, from my having failed to set before the Board, 
 with sufficient force and clearness, the emergencies of 
 the case, I have not been able to obtain any sucli assist- 
 ance; and the Society holds out to me no hope, at 
 present, of any addition to its original grant of 500^. 
 I had thought that three more such grants might 
 have been made in three successive years, on condition 
 that I should raise, among friends or in the colony, 
 500^. to meet each one of the Society's grants before 
 claiming it. With this aid, a small and plain, but 
 suitable, Cathedral Chui'ch might be completed, ca- 
 pable of holding about 500 people.] 
 
 Monday, March 27. — Arranging many matters of
 
 204 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 bvisiness with Mr. Green, and Mrs. Woodrow. I have 
 ah-eady mentioned, that I had decided to take under 
 the care of the Church a small number of young- 
 English orphans, of whom there were several, I 
 found, in the colony, in circumstances of great dis- 
 tress. Some of these were children of parents, who 
 had good connexions in England, but had emigrated 
 to Natal, and, having been removed by early death, 
 had left their children desolate and forsaken on that 
 far-off shore. Others had lost one of their parents, 
 and the other was unable, left with a large family, 
 to provide for the whole of her little ones. All were 
 growing up almost neglected in moral and spiritual 
 things. And it seemed most desirable to open at 
 once an Orphan's Home, into which all such children 
 might be received, and brought up, in the bosom of 
 the Church, and in the nurture and admonition of 
 her Lord. Of course, where the parents (or their 
 friends) were able to pay for the care of their chil- 
 dren, it would be right to expect a proper remune- 
 ration. But, in other cases, I felt that such a charity 
 would be of the greatest importance to our ]\Iission 
 work, not merely by endearing the Chiu'ch itself in 
 the eyes of the people, from the interest she took in 
 these poor lambs of Christ's flock, but specially by 
 enabling us, as we may hope, out of these young or- 
 phans, to raise a future band of Missionary labourers. 
 For surely it may be expected that, brought up from 
 the very first in the Church's ways, trained by her 
 godly Discipline and Prayers, — mingled with our 
 Missionary doings, becoming attached to our work,
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 205 
 
 aud catching, as we trust, the spirit of it, — these Httle 
 ones will not only acquire (as children do so early) the 
 native tongue, but will desire, as they grow to years of 
 manhood and womanhood, to be employed themselves 
 in Missionary labours ; aud whether actually commis- 
 sioned as agents of the Church, or managing their 
 own future homes, will seek to carry out, in their 
 dealing's with the natives around them, the principles 
 which they have learnt in their early training. In 
 this way we may hope to provide for a succession of 
 labourers hereafter; and so avoid the very serioi:s 
 difficulty, delay, and expense, of sending to England 
 for them, Mrs. Woodrow was most admirably fitted 
 for the charge thus committed to her, as the extracts 
 from her letters received since my return to England, 
 which are given in the appendix, will sufficiently 
 show. Her health, indeed, is not strong; but she 
 will have had before this, I hope, the comfort of a 
 fellow-labourer in Miss Baker, who sailed for Natal, 
 with the Rev. Dr. and Mrs. Callaway, on August 27. 
 I was very glad also to arrange with Mr. Green for 
 a kind of National School being opened in Maritz- 
 burg, under the care of Mr. and Mrs. Barker, who 
 came out with Mr. Methuen, as members of his 
 party, but had no work among the heathen at pre- 
 sent, nor could have, until my return to the colony. 
 The children on the books of this school already, I 
 find, number nearly a hundred — several of them 
 being Dutch children. Dutch parents are certainly 
 very eager to have their children well taught, and 
 very careful to do it themselves to the best of their
 
 206 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 power. In respect of order and godliness, I believe, 
 a respectable Dutch family will be found to surpass 
 by far the majority of English families with the same 
 opportunities- There is usually an old Dutch Bible 
 in every house, and well-read by its inmates, or, at 
 least, read to them. But their amount of informa- 
 tion on general subjects is exceedingly limited — most 
 probably, for want of books in their language, of that 
 interesting class which is supplied by the Society for 
 the Promotion of Christian Knowledge, for educa- 
 tional purposes. Something might be done to remedy 
 this evil with a printing-press, and a set of engravings 
 for illustration. Two other schools, as I have men- 
 tioned, are yet wanted for Maritzburg, namely, a 
 Grammar School for boys of a higher class, and a 
 Boarding School for the young ladies of the colony. 
 And for this I must bring out with me a married 
 clergyman and two lady-teachers. These two insti- 
 tutions, and the Orphan's Home, must serve for the 
 wants of Durban as well as Maritzbui'g; but a Na- 
 tional School is wanted at the latter place, and per- 
 haps an Infant School at both. Again, some measure 
 must be taken to forward the education of the youth 
 in the many scattered villages of the country, The 
 children of our clergy and other Missionaries will, of 
 course, be received into our central schools. It is 
 the plain duty of the Church, which receives the 
 devoted services of the parents, and requires the full 
 expenditure of all their energies in their different 
 spheres of duty, to relieve their minds from any 
 anxiety as to the education of their children. And
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 207 
 
 I am thankful that the fact, of having children of my 
 own to care for, will be an additional stimulus to me 
 to provide properly for those of others, and prevent, 
 as I trust, the painful necessity of sending any to 
 England for schooling. 
 
 I have said, also, that a Theological Institution 
 might perhaps be soon wanted, after my return to 
 the colony, wherein young men, both white and 
 coloured, might be trained with a view to Holy 
 Orders. Already one or two of the former class have 
 been named to me ; and of the latter there will be 
 more than one, I expect, should Mr. Posselt decide 
 to join us, and bring his native converts with him. 
 
 [Besides which, it will be seen in the extracts 
 appended, that there are several promising youths, 
 already in communication with Mrs. Woodrow and 
 Mr. Eobertson, some of whom may be fitted for this 
 work, of carrying the Word of Life to their brethren, 
 and may lay the foundation of a native Ministry.] 
 
 Eode again to inspect the new Mission station, and 
 fix upon a site for the buildings. 
 
 Tuesday, March 28. — Much occupied in taking 
 leave of the good folk of Maritzburg. Called among 
 others on the excellent Mrs. Cloete, whose husband, 
 the Recorder of Natal, was now in England, where 
 I had the pleasure of making his acquaintance. She 
 gave me an amusing account of a little incident, which 
 had lately happened to her son-in-law. Captain R. ; 
 and which shows the amount of knowledge possessed 
 occasionally by ofl&cials in England, on matters con- 
 nected with the colonies. Captain R. had had a horse
 
 208 TEN "WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 sick ill Maritzbvirg, and had incurred some small 
 expense of 8^. or 10^. to the military chest in curing 
 it. On the repoi't of this being sent to the autho- 
 rities at home, — those, I presume, of the War-ofl&ce 
 — he was insti-ucted to avoid such extravagance for 
 the future, by having recourse to the farrier attached 
 to the troops at King Williams Town (!) — the said 
 town being distant from Maritzburg 300 miles of 
 Kafir roads, which it would take a Kafir messenger 
 ten or eleven days to travel. 
 
 In the evening, confirmed at the camp the Serjeant- 
 Major and nine others. 
 
 Wednesday/, March 29 . — This morning at 8 a.m. 
 rode out of Maritzburg, accompanied for some few 
 miles by Colonel Cooper, Mr. Shepstone, and other 
 kind friends, who then rode back, while Mr. Green 
 and two others went on with me to the first house 
 of accommodation — Boulton's at Uys Dooms. It was 
 a very cheerful, pleasant, morning ; and the thought 
 of having my foce towards my English home again, 
 though 1 had still some work to do before I left the 
 colony, filled my heart with gladness, and deep 
 thankfulness to that most Merciful and Gracious 
 Being, Who had thus far guided and preserved me, 
 through so many difficulties and dangers, known 
 and iinkuown. Hitherto I had not dared to think 
 of my voyage to England. Now, however, by God's 
 own permission, I could venture to cast my thoughts 
 a little forward. I had really done the work in 
 Maritzburg, and among the heathen tribes, for which 
 I had come out to this land. I was going to the
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 209 
 
 port, and after another week or ten days, should 
 have nothing more to do, but to wait for the home- 
 ward-bound ! 
 
 It was with such feelings that I took my last look 
 of the long dark-green lines of the city, as we 
 reached the highest ridge, from which it was visible. 
 But, while my own eyes were brightening, I knew too 
 well that dear Mrs. Woodrow's lieart was growing 
 heavy ; for she was now to be left, in a rather deli- 
 cate state of health, a stranger in a strange land. 
 However, through the constant kind attentions of 
 Ml". Green, Mr. and Mrs. Shepstone, and many other 
 friends in Maritzburg, I was sure she would not be 
 allowed to feel herself unprotected and alone. God 
 protect, support, and comfort her ! 
 
 It seems that the sluits, which cross the mainroad 
 between Maritzburg and Durban, are not, all of them, 
 in the best possible order. Mr. Rutherford, the 
 Comptroller of Customs, told me that, only a few 
 days ago, while riding dowu by himself, he was 
 stepping his horse over one of these, when he sud- 
 denly went down up to the saddle-girths, and only 
 by great exertion struggled out. He had not gone 
 far, when he heard a shout behind him ; and, looking 
 back, he saw a sailor, imbedded in the same black 
 mud up to his breast, and quite iiuable to extricate 
 himself He was bellowing for help ; and it was 
 well that it was near at hand for him. 
 
 We breakfasted at Boulton's, where my ]\raritz- 
 burg friends took leave of me, and I had the good 
 fortune to be joined by Mr. Baker, the Commissariat- 
 P
 
 210 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 ofEcei- at Durban, -who was on his way down to the 
 port, and by whose kindness I was relieved from a 
 considerable difficulty. For, having advanced about 
 sixteen miles from Maritzburg, we overtook my 
 bullock-wagon, with all my goods and chattels, slowly 
 making its way on to Durban. It should have been 
 full sixteen miles or so ahead, as it had been started 
 yesterday afternoon, and was ordered to reach 
 Durban to-morrow morning. But it was plain the 
 people had been loitering upon the way ; and the 
 driver seemed a very bad one, fretting and worrying 
 the poor beasts from one side of the road to the 
 other, so that they were already quite exhausted, and 
 unable to proceed any further. Fortunately, Mr. 
 Baker had the Government mule-wagon in attend- 
 ance upon him, and kindly promised to wait till it 
 came up, and transfer my goods to it, while I rode 
 on with my attendant, Warner, Dr. Stanger's long- 
 tried and faithful servant. Mr. Baker mentioned 
 to me, that, when ordered up to Natal from the 
 Eastern Frontier of the Cape Colony last summer, 
 so painful had been his experience of the droughts 
 which sometimes prevail in that district, that he 
 brought with him for the use of his family a five- 
 gallon cask of water, thinking to land with it in 
 triumph upon the shore at Durban. He was rather 
 agreeably surprised to find that in Natal we are 
 never in want of water; whereas he had been offered 
 himself half-a-crown a gallon for it in British Kafraria. 
 I expected to find Jantjee with my own horse, fresh 
 and fit for mounting, at Stirk Spruit. I meant to
 
 TEX WEKKS IN NATAL. 211 
 
 have goue on immediately, and so reached Durban 
 in good time that evening. Mr. Shepstone had de- 
 spatched him from Maritzburg the morning before, 
 with strict orders to proceed that day to Stirk Spruit, 
 and have the horse ready to start by noon the next 
 day ; and I had ridden thus far on a borrowed 
 animal. But, behold ! some five miles short of Stirk 
 Spruit, and when yet a very steep hill — the longest 
 and steepest, and for horses most distressing, of all 
 between Maritzburg and Durban — had still to be 
 climbed, Warner, glancing his eye backward, dis- 
 covered at some distance a mounted rider leading 
 a horse. He was too far off for us to make out 
 whether he was black or white ; but a painful sus- 
 picion of the truth came across us, and we waited 
 to let them come up. Indeed it was Jantjee, and 
 how far he had brought my horse that morning, 
 with what food he had supplied it, through what 
 rivers and roads he had dragged it, no one could 
 tell. His excuse was, that he was afraid I should 
 not get in time some Kafir curiosities, which he had 
 promised Mr. Shepstone to procure for me, imless 
 he went to his kraal to fetch them. Accordingly, 
 he had been there, and passed the night there ; and 
 now, at half-past twelve, here he was about to mount 
 this hill with my reeking and already weary horse, 
 instead of having it waiting for me at Stirk Spruit. 
 It was of no use to be angry, especially as I knew that 
 Mr. Shepstone would punish him for his disobedience 
 of distinct orders. So I shook my head at him, and 
 said, "Bad," and we went our way. [Mr. S. I 
 p 2
 
 212 TEN WEEKS IN NATxVL, 
 
 found did punish liim, by forbidding liim to " see 
 his face" for a month — a punishment wliich was 
 reduced to a week, at my intercession, as I believed 
 the poor fellow meant to do right, though he cer- 
 tainly disobeyed his orders.] 
 
 At Stirk Spruit I parted with Warnei-, who rode 
 back the other horse to Maritzburg ; and, after some 
 time spent in refreshing my own animal, started 
 once more, with the scape-grace, Jantjee, at my heels. 
 It was a strange enjoyment, to feel myself again quite 
 alone for a season, amidst the richly grand scenery 
 of Natal ; or better than quite alone, for Jantjee, 
 though no companion, was a safe-guard to me, against 
 the recurrence of any such adventxu-es as befel me 
 on my night-ride from the Ilovu to Maritzburg. 
 
 There were several smart showers during the first 
 hour or so of our ride ; but then the weather cleared, 
 and we reached Pinetown pleasantly enough half an 
 hour before dark, having taken two or three short 
 cuts by Kafir paths or old disused roads, v<'hich Mr. 
 Shepstone had showed me on my last journey with 
 him, and which I was glad to be able to make out 
 again for mj^self without the help of Jantjee. It 
 now set in for rain, and the roads became too slippery 
 to allow of my proceeding further that evening in 
 the dark. Besides which I began to feel very uneasy, 
 and, in fact, was suffering already under the depress- 
 ing influences of an incipient attack of illness — 
 fever, perhaps, or influenza, which was rather preva- 
 lent at Maritzburg. I was sorry not to be able to 
 join the company, whose voices I overheard in the
 
 TEX ATEEKS IN NATAL. 213 
 
 next room to my own ; and which comprised, as 
 I afterwards found, Mr. Buchanan, the intelb'gent 
 editor of the Natal Witness, and now first Mayor of 
 Maritzburg, and other friends. There are no fewer 
 than five weekly journals published in Natal ; three 
 at Maritzburg, one of them in Dutch, the other 
 edited by Mr. Buchanan, who is a lawyer, and Inde- 
 pendent, and preaches in a chapel of his own ; and 
 the third edited by Mr. Archbell, who formerly was 
 a Wesleyan Missionary in these parts, but has long- 
 since retired, I believe, from active duty, and is a 
 large landed proprietor in the colony. Certainly, 
 these last two papers are most unsparing in their 
 abuse of one another, and, I fear I miist add, go 
 often far beyond the bounds of Christian charity, in 
 directing or repelling such attacks. At Durban 
 there are two English papers, the Mercury and the 
 A dvocate. The latter was not in being wdiile I was 
 in the colony. The former deserves credit, as far 
 as I have observed, for its moderation of language, 
 and general display of good temper. But there is 
 no paper for Churchmen in Natal at present. 
 
 Thursday, March 29. — After a feverish and rest- 
 less night, I started with three other travellers for 
 Durban, and reached it about 91 a.m. One of my 
 companions was Di*. Kelly, the magistrate of the 
 Umvoti, who told me that there is a chief, Soma- 
 hashe, in his district, all but civilized. He has been 
 brought to wear clothes, and drink coffee, and has 
 just bought himself a bag of coffee, and cups and 
 saucers, and is very desirous of book-learning.
 
 214: TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 
 
 Upon being shown a watch, a musical snuff-box, and 
 other articles, he said : " Ah ! you English can do 
 wonderful things. How is it that you do not make 
 something to keep men from dying 1 " 
 
 Colonel Cooper had most kindly put at mydisposal 
 at Durban his comfortable little cottage at the 
 camp ; and I was invited to share the mess of the 
 45th. This ai-rangement was most delightful. It 
 secured to me a quiet retreat, plenty of room, a 
 clean bed, and the kindest attention from the 
 officers of the detachment, and from the Colonel's 
 worthy servant. Miller. 
 
 At 11 A.M. I held the Confirmation at Durban, 
 at which, however, there was, it seemed to me, a 
 lack of that solemnity and earnestness, which had 
 so remarkably characterised the celebration of the 
 rite at Maritzburg, and which was due, I believe, 
 mainly to the teaching and influence of Mr. Green. 
 There were only fourteen confirmed ; and the at- 
 tendance at the service, (partly, perhaps, by reason 
 of a large wedding festival in the town that morning,) 
 was not by any means crowded, or overflowing — 
 though still considerable. 
 
 Had an interesting visit from Mr. Oftebro, one of 
 three Norwegian Missionaries, who are to work in 
 Panda's country. Mr. Schroeder, who is one of 
 them, has at length got a footing, as a physician, 
 with Panda himself, and is often at his kraal. He 
 supplies him with a great deal of medicine, but is 
 of no use — cannot effect a cure — in cases of " witch- 
 craft" — especially, I expect, when the offending u.m-
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 215 
 
 Tagati has pretty many cows. Tiie otlier two are 
 still in our colony, but on the frontier, and only 
 ■waiting for an opening to enter upon their work 
 among Panda's people, to which their own (Lutheran) 
 Church has sent them. Mr. Oftebro entirely and 
 most effectively confirms all the results of my j)ast 
 experience about the words uTixo and umKulun- 
 kulu, and the mode of treating with the natives the 
 subject of religion. " They all know umKulunkulu, 
 but know nothing of uTixo ; and he and his brethren 
 never use the latter Avord — only the former — even 
 in the Creed." " He has heard Zulus say that, in 
 their own country, when they are going to sit down 
 to a meal, they will send their children out, and 
 tell them to go and pray to umKulunkuki to give 
 them all sorts of good things ; and they go out and 
 Bay, ' umKulunkulu, give us bread — give us cows 
 — give us corn.' " " He has heard others, when he 
 has been preaching about lunKulunkulu, whisper 
 to one another. ' What ! does he know anything 
 about umKulunkulu ? ' and seem greatly interested 
 with the fact that he did." " The other word, 
 umVelinqange," he said, "was equally familiar to 
 them ; but, of course, they do not attach to either 
 of them the deep significance that we can." 
 
 In the evening, met a party of gentlemen at the 
 mess-dinner, including the Lieut .-Governor, and Mr. 
 Fynn, one of the Kafir magistrates. I was much 
 pleased to make the acquaintance of this gentleman, 
 who isa very remark able person in thehistory of Natal. 
 He was one of the earliest settlers upon the coast, in
 
 216 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 the time of Chaka, some thirty years ago, and had 
 much acquaintance with that chief and his doings. It 
 was he, who led Bishop Gray through Kafraria in his 
 perilous journey, and almost shared starvation with 
 him. Mr. Fynn, of course, is full to overflowing of 
 incidents of Kafir life ; and, in point of fact, is to 
 the southern portion of the district, pretty much 
 what Mr. Shepstone is to the north, being thoroughly 
 acquainted witli the natives, and, from long and close 
 intimacy with them, having a strong attachment to 
 the Kafir race. He promised to send me a MS. 
 account of tlie proceedings, which he once witnessed 
 at the death of Chaka's mother ; and the document, 
 which has just reached me, is here first given to the 
 world, as a specimen of the horrors of tliose times. 
 
 It appears that Chaka was engaged with his men 
 in hunting the elephant, when one evening the news 
 was brought to him, that his mother was seriously 
 ill. The regiments were ordered home at once to 
 the king's residence, sixty miles distant, and were 
 kept marching the whole night, and reached the 
 kraal about noon the next day, with Mr. Fynn in 
 their company all the while. 
 
 " Chaka now requested me to visit his mother. 
 I went, attended by an old chief, and found the hut 
 filled with mourning women, and such clouds of 
 smoke, that I was obliged to bid them all retire, to 
 enable me to breathe within it. Her complaint was 
 dysentery, and I reported at once to Chaka that her 
 case was hopeless, and that I did not expect she 
 would live through the day. The regiments, which
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 217 
 
 were then sitting in a semicircle aroimd him, were 
 ordered to their barracks, while Chaka himself 
 sat for about two hours in a contemplative mood, 
 without a word escaping his lips, several of the 
 elder chiefs sitting also before him. When the 
 tidings were brought that she had expired, Chaka 
 immediately arose, and entered his dwelling; and, 
 having ordered the principal chiefs to put on their 
 war-dresses, he in a few minutes appeared in his. 
 
 "As soon as the death was publicly announced, the 
 women, and all the men who were present, tore 
 instantly from their persons every description of 
 ornament. Chaka now appeared before the hut in 
 whicli the body lay, surrounded by his principal 
 chiefs in their war-attire. For aboiit twenty minutes 
 he stood in a silent mournful attitude, with his 
 head bowed upon his shield, on which I saw a few 
 large tears fall. After two or three deep sighs, his 
 feelings becoming ungovernable, he broke out into 
 frantic yells, which fearfully contrasted with the 
 silence that had hitherto prevailed. This signal was 
 enough. The chiefs and people, to the number of 
 about 15,000, commenced the most dismal and hor- 
 rid lamentations. 
 
 " I expected, ou seeing the old woman in her last 
 agonies, that I should again witness a scene like to 
 those, at which I had been present on two similar 
 former occasions. Not for one moment did I anti- 
 cipate the extent, to which the proceedings were now 
 to be carried. The people from the neighbouring 
 kraals, male and female, carae pouring in, each body,
 
 218 TEN WEEKS IN KATAL. 
 
 as they came in sight, at the distance of half-a-mile, 
 joining to swell this terrible cry. Through the whole 
 night it continued, none daring to take rest, or to 
 refresh themselves with water; while, at short in- 
 tervals, fresh bursts were heard, as more distant 
 regiments approached, The morning dawned, with- 
 out any relaxation; and, before noon, the number 
 had increased to about 60,000. The cries became 
 now indescribably horrid. Hundreds were lying 
 faint, from excessive fatigue and want of nourish- 
 ment; while the carcases of forty oxen lay in a heap, 
 which had been slavightered as an offering to the 
 guardian spirits of the tribe. At noon the whole 
 force formed a circle, with Chaka in their centre, 
 and sang the war-song, which afforded them some 
 relaxation during its continuance. At the close of 
 it, Chaka ordered several men to be executed on the 
 spot; and the cries became, if possible, more violent 
 than ever. No further orders were needed. But, as 
 if bent on convincing their chief of their extreme 
 gi'ief, the multitude commenced a general massacre. 
 Many of them received the blow of death, while in- 
 flicting it on others, each taking the opportunity of 
 revenging his injuries, real or imaginary. Those, 
 who could no more force tears from their eyes — 
 those, who were found near the river, panting for 
 -^yater — were beaten to death by others, who were 
 mad with excitement. Toward the afternoon I cal- 
 culated that not fewer than 7,000 people had fallen 
 in this frightful indiscriminate massacre. The adja- 
 cent stream, to which many had fled exhausted to
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 219 
 
 Tvet their parched tongues, became impassable, from 
 the number of dead corpses which \aj on each side 
 of it ; while the kraal, in which the scene took place, 
 was flowing with blood. 
 
 " Amidst this scene I stood unharmed, contem- 
 plating the horrors around me; and felt as if the 
 whole universe was at that moment coming to an 
 end. I stood there alone, a privileged being, not 
 compelled to take any part in this frantic scene : 
 and I felt truly thankful, not only that I was a Bri- 
 tish subject, but that I had so far gained the respect 
 of this tyrant, as to hope for escape even from this 
 horrible place of blood. While standing thus mo- 
 tionless, however, a regiment of young Zulus passed 
 by me, when two of them with their uplifted 
 knob-kirries, (heavy-headed sticks, or life-'preservers,) 
 rushed towards me, the leader demanding fiei'cely, 
 'why I stood there without a tear?' I made no 
 reply, but gazed vipon them sternly and steadily. 
 They moved on, shouting vengeance. 
 
 " The sun again set, and Chaka now put a stop to 
 this ungoverned general massacre. The cries, how- 
 ever, continued during the whole of the next night, 
 and until 10 a.m. the following morning; when 
 the chief became somewhat pacified, and his subjects 
 were permitted to take some refreshment. 
 
 " The ceremonies of his mother's burial were the 
 subject of much deliberation between Chaka and his 
 favourite counsellors. On the second day after her 
 death, the body was placed in a gi-ave, in a sitting 
 posture, near the spot where she died. At this part
 
 220 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 of the ceremony I was not allowed to be present ; 
 and, if what was related to me at the time by several 
 of the attendants be true, (and I believe it to be true, 
 knowing to what extent superstition will carry this 
 people,) it was fortunate for me that I was not pre- 
 sent, to witness the horrid spectacle of ten of the best 
 looking girls of the kraal being buried with her alive. 
 All who were present at this dreadful scene, to the 
 number of 12,000, drafted from the whole army, were 
 formed into a regiment, to guard the grave for the 
 next twelve months; and during that time were 
 prohibited from all intercourse with the tribe or any 
 of their nearest relatives. About 15,000 head of 
 cattle were set apart for their use, which were con- 
 tributed by all the cattle-holders of the coimtry, as 
 offerings to the spirits of the departed queen and her 
 ill-fated attendants. Had I been present on this 
 occasion, I shoixld have had to keep guard with 
 the rest. 
 
 " Hitherto the proceedings had been local. But 
 now tlie chiefs, anxious to show further proof of 
 their attachment, proposed that further sacrifices 
 should be made. And Gomani, Chaka's principal 
 favourite, made a speech, proposing the following 
 resolution : — 
 
 " ' That, as the gi'eat female elephant with small 
 breasts — the over-ruling spirit of vegetation — had 
 died, and as it was probable that the heavens and the 
 earth would unite in bewailing her death, the sacri- 
 fice should be a great one ; no cultivation should be 
 allowed during the following year; no milk should
 
 TEN WEEKS IN IsATAL, 221 
 
 be used, but, as drawn from the cow, it sliould be all 
 poured upon the earth; and all women, who should 
 be found with child during the year, should with 
 their husbands be put to death.' 
 
 '' At the close of this speech, which was received 
 with acclamation, regiments of soldiers were dis- 
 persed throughout the country, who massacred every 
 one they could find, that had not been present at the 
 general wailing. 
 
 " During tlie next three months, the first two of 
 Gomani's propositions were strictly carried out ; at 
 the end of which time these ordei's were redeemed, by 
 large offerings of oxen being made to Chaka from all 
 the chiefs. But the third condition was strictly en- 
 forced throughout the year, during which also lamen- 
 tations on a smaller scale took place from time to time 
 at Chaka's residence, vrlien I was not present. At 
 the end of the year, Chaka left this kraal, where his 
 mother died, and came with his v.-hole nation and 
 cattle to Tuguza, a kraal he had I'ecently constructed 
 on the Umvoti River, and the place where he was 
 subsequently assassinated. . Having heard of his ap- 
 proach so near to the Bay, I started to pay him a visit, 
 and met him on his march a few miles south of the 
 Tukela. He appeared rejoiced to see me, and would 
 not allow me to separate from him, carrying on 
 a lively and pleasant conversation during the march. 
 While passing a large pool of water, one of the chiefs 
 remarked that alligators abounded there ; upon 
 which Chaka asked me, ' If I had the courage to 
 swim across the pool?' promising me five head of
 
 222 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 oxen, if I did. It was an awkward question : but 
 I was determined not to show signs of fear j and at 
 once took off my trousers, and in my shirt swam 
 across the stream. He applauded my courage, and 
 then asked, 'If I expected the oxen?' I said, 
 ' jSTo ! ' which produced a hearty laugh from himself 
 and his counsellors, 
 
 " We proceeded on the road until we came in sight 
 of Tuguza, when he separated from his chiefs and 
 followers, and took me with him under a large 
 euphorbia-tree, and, while putting on his war-dress, 
 told me that another lamentation was then to take 
 place at Tuguza. I begged him to grant me one 
 request. He smiled, and asked, ' What it could pos- 
 sibly be?' I entreated him, for his own sake as 
 well as mine, not to allow on this occasion any of his 
 people to be put to death. He at once called for 
 Gomani, and, laughing at the strangeness of my 
 petition, 'That I should plead for the life of dogs!' 
 gave orders to him to see that none were put to 
 death. He then told me to separate from the mass, 
 and quietly observe the ceremonies, of this the last 
 lamentation, by which he was to be pui-ified from 
 his uncleanness. 
 
 " He now advanced, with his chiefs, in their full 
 war-dress. Presently Tuguza, lying, as it were, in 
 a basin, came full in sight ; and the outrunners, 
 shouting out the praises of Chaka, announced his 
 approach. Upon this he began to sigh and sob 
 loudly, pretending to falter and stumble in his steps, 
 and then commenced crying aloud. The whole of
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 223 
 
 the able-bodied population of the country, each regi- 
 ment by itself, came all in sight, as it were, in a 
 moment, standing upon the edge of the hills which 
 surrounded Tuguza. They took up, as before, the 
 frantic cry of their chief; but now with the general 
 yelling was mingled the bellowing of about 100,000 
 oxen, brought from the remotest parts of the country, 
 expressly for this occasion. I stood at the distance 
 of half-a-mile, near enough to see that no lives were 
 sacrificed ; and glad was I to find that at sunset the 
 lamentations, which began late in the afternoon, were 
 brought to an end, the regiments being ordered to 
 rest, and to slaughter cattle for the evening meal. 
 I retired to my hut ; but to sleep was out of the 
 question, from the bellowing of the oxen and the 
 dinning sound of the multitude. 
 
 '•' The next morning tlie purification took place. 
 Every cattle-owner had brought calves for this pur- 
 pose, each of which was ripped open on its right side, 
 the owner taking out the gall of the living animal, 
 which then was left to die in its agonies, and not 
 allowed to be eaten. Each regiment in succession 
 then presented itself before Chaka, and, as it passed 
 in a circle round him, each individual, holding the 
 gall-bladder in his hand, sprinkled the gall over him. 
 After this proceeding, Gomani made another speech: — 
 
 " ' The tribe had now lamented for a year the death 
 of her, who had now become a spirit, and who would 
 continue to watch over Chaka's welfare. But there 
 were nations of men, inhabiting distant countries, 
 who, because they had not yet "been conqiiered.
 
 224 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 supposed that they never should be. This was plain 
 from the fact of their not having come forward to 
 lament the death of the Great Mother of earth and 
 corn. And, as tears could not be forced from these 
 distant nations, war should be made against them, 
 and the cattle taken should be the tears shed upon 
 her graA'e.' 
 
 "The war-dance was now performed; several droves 
 of oxen were slaughtered ; and Chaka was finally 
 washed with certain decoctions, prepared by the 
 native doctors. And thus this memorable lamen- 
 tation ended — in which, however, I cannot help sus- 
 pecting that reasons of state -policy had as much to 
 do, as any feeling of regret for his dead mother ; and 
 that he wished his people to infer, if such a sacrifice 
 was necessary upon the occasion of her departure, 
 how frightfully terrific would be that required at his 
 own ! Such considerations as these might possibly 
 tend to prolong the life even of such a tyrant. And 
 yet he fell at last by the hand of an assassin ! " 
 
 It is probably, from the part he has taken in such 
 scenes as that just described, wherein his advice 
 was, doubtless, the means of saving many lives, 
 that Mr, Fynn has gained the colonial sobriquet of 
 " Chaka's Privy-counsellor." I believe he regards 
 the memory of Chaka, notwithstanding his gi'eat 
 cruelties, with some respect, and considers him to 
 have been a man of spirit and genius, and not merely 
 a brutal and abominable despot, like his brother 
 Diugaan. He thinks that his severities were, in a 
 manner, almost necessary — like those of jSTapoleon or
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. ^25 
 
 Robespierre — to maintain his power. But, though he 
 had stories like this to tell us, he had also more pleasant 
 anecdotes of savage life, and amused us with a little 
 bit of Kafir flattery. Tliey are very skilful at this 
 art ; and one day, when he had given to one of them 
 an extra strong pinch of snuff", over which he had 
 sighed, and sneezed, and shed tears to his heart's 
 content, the man looked up, and said : " The snuff 
 was strong indeed ; it had brought out the ancient 
 teai's, that had been for years behind his eyes." 
 
 Friday, March 31. — This day attended a Church 
 Meeting here, in order to hear the report of the . 
 architect, and see what covild be done about the new 
 church. I find much warmth and heartiness of feel- 
 ing in this place, but not much self-sacrifice. The fact 
 is, I fear, that the people, having had their pastor en- 
 tirely supported by a grant of the Colonial Govern- 
 ment, have not realized the duty — perhai^s, have not 
 had it sufficiently brought home to them — of giving 
 freely and constantly, for God's Glory and the ad- 
 vancement of His Kingdom among others, if their 
 own needs are supplied. I found it necessary to 
 give the svmi of 100^. towards the completion of the 
 church, and to lend a further sum of 300Z., without 
 interest, to be repaid by 3'early instalments of 50^., 
 to be guaranteed by the committee, and to be raised 
 by the Offertory. 
 
 In the evening started on horseback, with Jantjee 
 behind me, as guide, to find my way to Mr. Lam- 
 port's, w^here I was invited to dine. I\Ir. Lamport's 
 house was iu the middle of the good town of Durban. 
 Q
 
 226 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 
 
 But, alas ! it was pitch-dark, and very soon we lost 
 our way over the small sandy plain, which separated 
 the camp from the town. Jantjee, indeed, was not 
 at home in this neighbourhood, and knew nothing 
 about it : so it was no wonder that he misled me. 
 We rode to and fro for an hour, inquiring our way 
 at intervals, whenever we lighted upon a soldier's 
 cottage in our rambles ; and at last we found our- 
 selves in the town indeed, but at just the opposite 
 point from that to which I was bound. Now Durban 
 is not a gas-lighted town, with streets all clearly 
 defined and unmistakeable, when once you get into 
 them. It is true, as I have said elsewhere, that it 
 is laid out very regularly. But the bits of bush, 
 which are still left in the wide sandy streets, and the 
 uniform appearance of the streets themselves, are 
 quite enough to confound one in the deep gloom of 
 a tropical dusk-hour. So I begged at a settler's 
 house for the assistance of an English g^uide, and 
 a little lad was helped up on Jantjee's horse, and 
 brought me, in due time, to my destination, where 
 I had been long expected by my kind host, and a 
 party of his friends. 
 
 But the fever had not yet left me, and I passed long 
 and weaiy hours that night in my little chamber at 
 the camp, and gladly hailed the first sign of daylight, 
 though it found me unrested and unrefreshed. I was 
 engaged, however, that morning to breakfast twelve 
 miles away, near Pinetown, and afterwards to confirm, 
 administer the Communion, and make arrangements 
 for beginning a small church at Pinetown.
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATxVL. 227 
 
 Saturday, April 1. — Accordingly I rose at six a.m., 
 and started with ^Mr. Lloyd ; but, after creeping 
 slowly up the beautiful Berea, with its clusters of 
 wild flowers, festooniug with their luxuriant blossoms 
 the thick green bush, I was obliged to give up my 
 journey, and return to Durban. This day, therefore, 
 was spent in complete idleness; but towards night 
 I was sensibly relieved, and began to think that 
 I should be able to take part in the services of the 
 mori'ow, which I very much desired, as it was the 
 Sunday after Confirmation with Communion. 
 
 Sunday, April 2. — Was recovered sufficiently to 
 attend church, and preach, and take my part in the 
 administration of the Sacrament, giving notice of an 
 S.P.G. sermon for next Sunday, on behalf of the 
 Zulu Missions, if I remained in the colony. 
 
 Monday, A2)ril 3. — Having made a week's ar- 
 rangements, which I did not wish, if possible, 
 to disappoint, I started about 9| a.m. with Jantjee 
 to ride to Mr. Lindley's, at the Inanda, about five 
 hours from Durban. We were expressly ordered to 
 go to Gee's, the middle-drift of the Umgeni, where 
 Mr. Williams, the magistrate, had kindly promised 
 to meet me, and to conduct me from thence to his 
 own house, and there I was to be met by Mr. 
 Lindley himself. Unfortimately, from my state of 
 indisposition, and the great doubtfulness I had of 
 my being at all likely to make this journey, I had 
 not made any particular inquiries about " Gee's 
 Drift," which I knew was a commonly used ford for 
 crossing the river, and well known to any one in- 
 q2
 
 22S TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Durban. If, therefore, I decided ultimately to go, 
 I had no fear about learning the way to it from 
 some one or other, on the morning when we stai'ted. 
 Indeed, I thought I did know the way myself: for 
 the kind magistrate of the Inanda, Mr. Mesham, had 
 distinctly laid down for me in his note, " Gee's Boat, 
 Middle Drift;" and I knew there ivas a boat at the 
 drift, to which two months before, in the first week 
 after my landing, I had been taken, in order to go to 
 the same station, Mr. Lindley's. I naturally con- 
 cluded that this was Gee's boat, and made for tlie 
 drift accordingly, taking the lead without hesitation 
 over the Berea. Presently Jantjee was stopped by a 
 soldier, who told him we were going wrong, and 
 directed us to take a very different course. We 
 followed his advice, and soon came upon a very plea- 
 sant and excellent road, which skirted the bottom of 
 the bush, and along which we rode for a mile or two, 
 continually expecting (at least, I did) that it would 
 take suddenly a turn, and wind up over the heights 
 of the Berea. More than once I stopped my sable 
 friend, and told him I thought we were wrong; but 
 he took counsel with some blacks whom we met, and 
 professed himself perfectly satisfied. So on we went 
 on this fine level road, till I would ride no further; 
 and then managed to make him understand that 
 I wanted to go right up over the Berea. " 0, then 
 we must go back!" and back we went, I inwardly 
 complaining of my military friend, who had thus 
 added five miles or so of riding to a journey suffi- 
 ciently long in itself, both for myself in my present
 
 TEM WEEKS IN NATAL. 229 
 
 condition, and my horse. Besides which, I felt I 
 should be keeping Mr. Williams a painfully long 
 time, awaiting me at the drift. However, we rode 
 back, and in due course reached the foot of the 
 Berea, and mounted by that charming bush road. 
 As we ascended we met two Englishmen, one of 
 whom knew nothing about Gee's Drift, the other 
 doubted if the drift I was going to was called by 
 that name, but " it led to a Mr. Gee's house." We 
 met no other travellers, and at length, about 11 
 A.M., with pretty hard riding, we reached (what I 
 now found was) Feel's, or the upper drift, while Gee's 
 was two miles down the river, but only now acces- 
 sible to me by a difficult ride of six or seven miles; 
 whereas at the point where I had turned back 
 we were going straight for it, and within a very short 
 distance of reaching it, quite in time for keeping my 
 appointment with Mr. ^Y. This was very mortifying : 
 but I now found it best upon the whole, as Jantjee 
 was a stranger to the country, to send him to find 
 his way to Mr. Williams, for wdiich full directions 
 were given him, and to cross the river myself at this 
 drift, and hire a Kafir guide to show me the way to 
 Mr. Lindley's. 
 
 Here I was shown the spot, at the very same 
 place where the river is forded, at which, only a 
 week or two ago, a little boy, the son of a settler 
 named Baker, while swinging with his brother by 
 the rope, by means of which the boat is ferried 
 over, and plunging about for sport in the then 
 swollen stream, was seized by an alligator, which
 
 230 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 suddenly came out of its covert of reeds close by, 
 carried off the poor child, and devoured it. The 
 brother shrieked for help — the mother rushed down 
 from her cottage hard-by — but her little one was 
 lost. And the father, who was employed in a shop 
 at Dui'ban, and was at the time in a sickly state of 
 health, was so shocked by the intelligence, that he 
 very soon died. These occurrences pressed home 
 more closely on my attention at the time the ne- 
 cessity of an "Orphans' Home" in the colony; 
 though in this particular case, the children, I found, 
 were not left destitute, but were at once most kindly 
 taken care of by their uncle, a resident at Durban. 
 
 It is only, however, when the rivers are much 
 swollen by rain, that these creatures ever find their 
 way so far up as this. One has been killed not far 
 from Maritzburg ; but it is very rarely that they 
 are found higher up from the coast than three or 
 four miles, though they infest the outlets of some of 
 the rivers, more particularly the Tukela and the 
 Umkomasi. Another instance of the dangers to be 
 guarded against by travellers in crossing the Natal 
 rivers at their mouths, is given in the following 
 fearful adventure, which befel one of the American 
 Missionaries, Mr. Butler, just before I landed. He 
 had been across one of the rivers, a little to the 
 south of Durban, to inspect a house that was being 
 built for him, and was returning on horseback, when, 
 just as he had almost got through the drift the 
 second time, his horse began to plunge about vio- 
 lently, and i^resently, as he thought, his own feet got
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 231 
 
 entangled with the animal's legs. However, the grasp 
 quickly left his ankle to flxsten iipon his knee, then 
 upon his thigh, and he found, to his horror, that 
 an alligator had seized him. The horse was still 
 plunging about desperately, and was making for the 
 middle of the stream. The Missionary lost his seat, 
 and was dragged off his back, and, though he still 
 clung on by the bridle and mane, he gave up his life 
 as lost. He bethought himself, however, of Him who 
 once heard the prophet's cry fi'om the belly of the 
 fish, and lifted up a momentary ejaculation for help 
 from above. At this instant the horse turned towards 
 the shore, and Mr. Butler was enabled to lay hold of 
 the weeds which gi-ew there, and drag himself by 
 means of them iip upon the bank, the beast still 
 keeping his hold upon his thigh. In this position 
 he shouted for help to some Kafir women, at work 
 in a neighbouring field : and they hastened down, 
 and with their kuob-kirries beat the creature on the 
 head, luitil it let go its hold. The Missionary and 
 his horse wei'e both saved, though terribly mangled; 
 but ultimately both recovered of their injuries. 
 
 I obtained a Kafir guide, the head of a small 
 kraal in the neighbourhood, and recommended by 
 the ferryman as thoroughly trustworthy, who was to 
 walk before me, and show me the way (twelve miles) 
 to Mr. Lindley's; and with a present from the feriy- 
 nian himself of a fresh-grown orange and lemon, 
 and (what was most acceptable) a glass of milk, I 
 started. The man sometimes walked, sometimes ran, 
 before me, taking me by a curious Kafir by-path for
 
 232 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 some miles, througli very romantic spots, but briiig- 
 iug me out at length into the main road, upon an 
 eminence, from which I had an extensive view of 
 the magnificent Inauda country. We took two 
 hours and a half to reach ]\[r. Lindley's, where I v/as 
 most heartily welcomed by Mrs. Lindley, surrounded 
 by her splendid family of eleven as fine and healthy 
 children as one would wish to see, almost all, I be- 
 lieve, born and reared iu the colony. She was 
 a little alarmed, however, to see me approach without 
 her husband, who had gone to meet me, and appre- 
 hended at first that some disaster must have befallen 
 him, until relieved by the tale of my wanderings. 
 I shall not soon forget the delicious draught of milk 
 with which my parched lips — dry, not only with the 
 effect of the heat, but with some remains of the 
 fever — were refreshed by her kindness; nor will she 
 soon forget, I imagine, though she could hardly 
 have understood at the time, the eagerness with 
 which her large jug was drained. In due time Mr. 
 Lindley arrived with Jantjee at his heels. He was 
 much perplexed, however, at the i"Oute I had taken. 
 For, on the way, he had passed an English wagon, 
 which had left Peel's Drift that morning early, and 
 the owner was certain that I had not passed him on 
 my way. Not knowing that I had taken a Kafir 
 guide, and supposing that 1 had ventured to come 
 on alone, the good Missionary began to fear that I 
 had lost my way, and was wandering about in help- 
 less uncertainty in that singularly wild Inanda 
 country. He begged Jantjee to search with him
 
 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL, "66 
 
 carefully for the spoor (track) of my liorsc ; and very 
 soon they distinctly found it, which perplexed them 
 more than ever, for how could I have gone on with- 
 out passing the Englishman? The puzzle was ex- 
 plained when he reached his home. He had for- 
 gotten the old, unfrequented Kafir path, by which 
 much of my journey had been accomplished. 
 
 I found, however, that it was no very uncommon 
 thing for travellers to lose their way about these 
 wilds; and Mr. Lindley gave me two anecdotes in 
 illustration of this point, from the experience of the 
 late Rev. F, Owen, formerly missionary to the Zulus 
 in the time of Dingaau. (See Introductory Sketch.) 
 Once he had dismounted upon a journey, and on 
 getting up again, with his wife in a pillion behind 
 him, he rode on until he found that he had missed 
 his way. At last, after having travelled some distance 
 in complete uncertainty, he set Mrs. Owen down, and 
 rode up a height before him, in order to have a look 
 at the country. On reaching the summit, he found 
 that he stood in front of — his own house, which he 
 had left some hours before ! The horse had turned 
 round, while he was off his back, without his noticing 
 it. Another adventure, however, of Mr. Owen's, was 
 likely to have led to a much more serious conclu- 
 sion. He was riding down to Captain Gardiner's 
 place, and was directed along a new-made road, 
 which he "could not possibly mistake or get out of" — 
 an assertion, which my own short experience has 
 shown to be not always infallible, when hazarded by 
 an old hand in speaking of an inexperienced adven-
 
 234 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 turer. " There is only one turning out of it, and that 
 is the old road, and so little used and indistinct, that 
 you -will never think of taking it?" It was just this 
 very path, of course, that our traveller must per- 
 versely make a point of takhig ; and very soon he 
 got thoroughly bewildered. After moving about for 
 some hours, at length he offsaddled, knee-haltered 
 his horse, sat down on a rock, and so spent the night, 
 with no little apprehension of an attack from some 
 of the wild animals around him — at that time far 
 more numerous than now. When the morning 
 came, he mounted again, and rode on in that direc- 
 tion which he thought the most likely to be the right 
 one. But for many hours past he had had no food, 
 nor was there any prospect of his getting any, unless 
 he fell in with human beings of some kind or other. 
 It happened, most providentially, that the Rev. A, 
 Grout, American Missionary, was at that very time 
 travelling with his family from the Zulu country 
 towards Natal. Having outspanned for the night, 
 he had bi'eakfasted, and yoked his oxen once more, 
 and was plodding along the road, when he saw upon 
 a distant hill the figure of a solitary horseman, 
 slowly advancing towards him. The sight of the 
 wagon appeared to quicken his pace, and very soon 
 the poor way-worn Missionary was embraced by 
 his warm-hearted brother, who immediately out- 
 spanned for him, and ministered to his necessities. 
 Mr. Owen was riding sti'aight on for the Zulu coun- 
 try, through a region at that time desolate and un- 
 inhabited; and but for this providential meeting
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 235 
 
 he would veiy possibly have perished of hunger and 
 misery. 
 
 I spent a most delightful evening in the bosom of 
 this amiable family, and at night was asked to close 
 the day with family prayers, which I did with a short 
 exposition, as usual, from the passage of Scripture 
 read. There were two or three coloured servants in 
 attendance in another room, into which the door 
 opened from ours; but they could scarcely have 
 heard my voice, so as to take any part in the Scrip- 
 ture reading and prayer ; nor, I fear, would they 
 have understood much if they had. The converts 
 on the station, I found, were expected to have family 
 prayer, each in his own little cottage ; but were not 
 called up by the Missionary for daily prayer, and read- 
 ing of God's Word. And I did not learn that he had 
 any regular services with them of a religious charac- 
 ter, except on Sundays, when he preached to them 
 through an interpreter — Mr. Lindley being a perfect 
 master of the Dutch tongue, but not of the Kafir. 
 He had been, in fact, pastor to the Dutch church 
 in INIaritzburg, upon the original occupation of the 
 country by the Boers in 1837. There was a woman's 
 weekly prayei'-meeting, at which Mrs. Lindley lasually 
 attended; and there was a Sunday morning school, 
 at which the eldest boy used to attend, but now had 
 ceased to do so. Nor was there any daily school for 
 the little ones of the flock, at which I was the more 
 surprised, as with such a blooming family of children, 
 some gi'own almost to maturity, and who had ah-eady 
 learned, as their excellent father told me, " to speak
 
 236 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 the native tongue with more or less fluency, for it 
 was impossible to prevent this," it seemed so natural 
 that this singular gift of nature should be improved, 
 for the glory of God and the salvation of the poor 
 dark souls around them. But I found upon inquiry, 
 that there wei'e serious objections to allowing a free 
 intercourse between the white and the black children. 
 The conversation of the latter is said to be so impure 
 and disgusting, that a Christian parent cannot dare 
 to commit his children to its contamination. And 
 on this ground both Mr. Lindley and Mr. Lewis 
 Grout, whose station I next visited, and who plainly 
 told me that "he would not have his little girl 
 learn one word of that filthy people's language on 
 any account, if he could help it," think it their 
 duty to their children to protect them from such 
 corrupting influences. Some other of the American 
 Missionaries, I find, agree in this principle; others 
 do not, especially Mr. A. Grout, whom I presently 
 after visited. Doubtless, there must be need for 
 great watchfulness and care in such a matter ; but I 
 cannot help believing that some measures might be 
 adopted, to render such invaluable help, as the teach- 
 ing of young persons, available for our natives. We 
 shpuld never choose to leave our children in England 
 exposed, without protection, to the possible evil con- 
 sequences of teaching in a ragged school : but, with 
 proper precaution and discipline, surely we should 
 not fear to see them thus employed. 
 
 Mr. Lindley, I found, was somewhat desponding 
 about the improvement of the Kafirs, and thought
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. ZO I 
 
 " it would tcake 500 years to produce any sensible 
 effect upon them." There were eighty souls upon 
 the station. And certainly some of these gave 
 evident outward signs of very considerable improve- 
 ment. Several had built for themselves neat cot- 
 tages, as good as those of many an English settler. 
 Indeed, on first entering the valley, I had taken one 
 of them at a distance for Mr. Lindley's own residence. 
 I had a very pleasant bedroom assigned to me — a 
 separate building — in which Bishop Gray had been 
 accommodated four years ago. 
 
 Tuesday, Aj^ril 4. — All the people within call were 
 summoned up this morning, some thirty or thirty-five 
 of all ages, to make their salutations to me. I found 
 that I must go through the ordeal of shaking hands 
 with every one of them ; and was not a little amused 
 at the process. And there was my friend Jantjee, a 
 chief superior in rank and importance to any one 
 of them, who had been present at so many inter- 
 views between the great Kafir chiefs and myself, and 
 had never presumed to do more than kiss my hand; 
 and I could not help observing the grin of derision, 
 with which he watched this motley group, seizing 
 one after another the hand of the iuKos', and 
 shaking it. [I may as well add here that, the next 
 day at noon, when I dismissed him to his home, my 
 friend, having received my gift of money, must ask 
 for my hand, and, instead of kissing it as I ex- 
 pected, had the impudence to shake it. Mr. Mesham, 
 when he heard of it, was very indignant ; and Mr. 
 Shepstoue, I imagine, will give my Kafir friend Jus
 
 238 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 opinion on the subject.] But this is a mistake, I 
 think, with some of the excellent American Mis- 
 sionaries; though there are, I believe, differences of 
 opinion, even among them, upon this point, as well as 
 the former. To shake hands, is the English, not the 
 Kafir, way, of showing goodwill and brotherhood ; 
 and they might just as well introduce at once the 
 apostolic kiss. Of course, the objection would not 
 extend to the senior converts, and such as had shown 
 decided progress in piety and civilization. 
 
 I wished now to have my usual conversation, and 
 make my inquiries among these natives, with the 
 help of their Missionary. I had told him of the 
 traces of natural religion, which I had found among 
 the savage tribes, and how they appeared to me to 
 attach very just notions to the names umKulunkulu 
 and umVelinqange, however imperfect and confused 
 their ideas miglit be. I wished to know if his 
 people, before Christianity had reached them, had 
 any such notions conveyed to them from their 
 fathers. Mr. L. told me that he knew they had the 
 name umKulunkulu, which they used to expi'ess the 
 Creator of all things: but he felt sure that, if I 
 asked further, I should find they meant by it a little 
 worm in the reeds, a sort of caddis -worm — (said to 
 be poisonous — but I doubt this, from the safety with 
 which I have seen it repeatedly handled) — whose 
 cylindrically shaped houses, constructed of little 
 strips of bark, may be found on the willow-tree in 
 great numbers. This was quite new to me; but I 
 felt already so sure of the ground on which I stood,
 
 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 239 
 
 that it would not have staggered me with regard to 
 my geueral conclusion, formed from so many replies, 
 obtained from so many different tribes, if I had 
 found that those now before me had, previous to 
 their conversion, been sunk in yet lower degradation, 
 and lost yet more of the truth of their original 
 traditions, than others of their brethren. 
 
 With this preparatory talk, we proceeded to our in- 
 quiries. The subjects selected for the examination 
 were chiefly two men — aged forty-six and forty-nine 
 — whom Mr. L. considered to be the most devout 
 and truthful of his whole body of converts; but 
 four or five others sat with them. The conversation 
 was can-ied on by means of a young half-caste 
 woman, Nancy, a very pleasing and intelligent girl, 
 and one of the very best of interpreters, by means 
 of whom Mr. L. was in the habit of preaching to 
 his people. They told us that they had heard the 
 name uTixo from Dr. Adams, and before that from 
 Captain Gardiner, more than twenty years ago. 
 " Had they ever heard any other name besides 
 nTixo?" "Yes — umKulunkulu. He had made all 
 things." In answer to Mr. L., they " did not hear 
 whether he had made the great mountams." " He 
 made the reeds first, and out of them came men." 
 "Was umKulunkulu the same as uTixo?" " Yes : 
 but they did not understand uTixo at first. They 
 do now, because they have been taught its meaning?" 
 " They think umKulunkulu would be the best 
 word to use for the unconverted heatheu." " They 
 think umKulunkulu the best word altogether" —
 
 240 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 two 01' three speaking. " Did they think at first that 
 uTixo was the same as nmKulunkulu f " When they 
 heard about His creating all things, they said, ' This is 
 uniKulunkiilu.' " " They would have liked better — 
 attended more — if the Missionary had spoken to them 
 at first about iimKulunkulu, instead of uTixo. They 
 would have said, ' The teacher is right. It is umKu- 
 lunkulu that he talks about.' " " But," asked Mr. L. 
 *' if you had been told about umKulunkulu, would 
 you not have thought directly about the little worm 
 down in the reeds 1 " This question was received by 
 the whole party with a smile of respectful derision. 
 " no I we only call it so ; we use the same name for it ; 
 but we do not pay any honour to it." (One remembei's 
 a flower, called by the name, Everlasting.) " Did 
 they know where umKulunkulu was ?" " No ! they 
 had only heard of Him, that there was such a Being ; 
 they did not know tvhere He was." Mr. L. was quite 
 convinced by their replies, that there was more of 
 truth in their rude conceptions of the Divine Being, 
 than he had imagined ; and regi-etted with me that 
 the Americans had not — as the Norwegian Mission- 
 aries now have done — laid aside altogether the word 
 uTixo, and adopted at first umKulunkulu, or some 
 other word. He said they had thought of doing so ; 
 but, being strangers in the land, they had deferred 
 to the example and judgment of the Wesleyans and 
 others, whom they found in the field before them, 
 
 [Since I have been in England, the young lass, I 
 believe, who interpreted for us upon this occasion, 
 has elo2}ed with a young Kafir, to whom she was
 
 TEX WEEKS IN XATAL. 241 
 
 attaclied, and "who came in tlie dead of night, on 
 horseback himself, and leading anoth^i* horse for the 
 dark lady of his love, and carried her off in triumph. 
 I have not heard, but presume the young man to 
 be a Christian. The couple were pursued, and 
 brought back — the young man severely reprimanded, 
 and threatened, though it is very difficult to see what 
 law could be brought against him ; for by white law 
 the young damsel was quite marriageable, and old 
 enough to have her own choice in the matter, and 
 it would be somewhat strange to bring a Christian 
 girl under the mercenary rules of heathenism. It 
 remains to be seen, whether she will content herself 
 with the husband selected for her by others, (for, 
 though not married, she is said to have been be- 
 ti'othed, though not seemingly with her own ap- 
 proval;) or whether the passion, "strong as death," 
 will have its way in the breast of this poor black 
 girl, and keep her ti'ue to her plighted word. 
 
 About ©oon Mr. Mesham arrived, and, accompanied 
 by Mr. Lindley and two of his young daughters, on 
 horseback, we had a delightful ride to his pretty 
 cottage — the Inanda Magistracy. It was posted on 
 a mound, which rose in the centre of a veiy romantic 
 valley or gorge, bounded on one side by an almost 
 perpendicular ridge of great elevation, which the 
 next day we were to climb. After making the 
 acquaintance of my new hostess, Mrs. Mesham, a 
 hearty, good-natured Dutch lady, I had an opportu- 
 nity of witnessing the administration of justice by 
 the magistrate, in a case at issue between two Kafirs. 
 
 R
 
 242 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 The court was a large thatched outhouse, in which 
 was placed at one end a table and chairs for the 
 magistrate and his friends; while the parties, with 
 their companions, squatted themsehes down upon 
 the ground at the other end of it. Next to Mr. 
 Mesham sat his own two Indunas, or head-men, and 
 then three " young men," who composed a sort of 
 council for him upon matters of Kafir law. They 
 had already heard the case between themselves ; and 
 now it was in a fit state to be brought before his 
 worship. There were seventeen or eighteen Kafirs, 
 interested in the question to be decided, who all sat 
 round in still attention — most of them perfectly 
 mute all the while, though, now and then, one or 
 two would have a word to say, in elucidation of some 
 point of the affair. I noticed particularly that the 
 son of the- accused did this several times. 
 
 The case was as follows. The complainant, a young, 
 gloomy-looking Kafir, accused another, an old man, 
 with grizzled beard, and a sorrowful woe-worn 
 countenance, of having committed a violent assault 
 upon him. Coming forward from the row of his 
 •companions, he had to tell his tale at length ; while 
 the interpreter translated, and the magistrate noted 
 it down. Not a sound or movement interrupted his 
 story, except that the magistrate would ask a ques- 
 tion or two to clear up an uncertainty. Meanwhile, 
 the poor old greybeard looked the very picture of 
 wretchedness, watching with open mouth, with 
 anxious face, and, it seemed to me, with tearful eyes, 
 the lips of the other, as he proceeded confidently
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 243 
 
 with his charge. The young niau had goue, it 
 appeared, with two of his companions — whether 
 he had persuaded them, or they him, was not exactly 
 clear — to the old man's hut. The latter was already 
 aware that they had spread a report of his being a 
 Takati, (wizard,) and immediately left his hut, and 
 sat down outside with his fellows. They followed him, 
 and sat down beside him, and began to abuse him 
 with being a Takati, &c. Whereupon he called upon 
 his friends to beat them as Takatis, which they did 
 very lustily, — at least, the one who now brought his 
 action for damages. Such was the truth of the story, 
 as it ultimately came to light, from the statements 
 on both sides. The evidence, however, was not com- 
 pleted that day ; and they were ordered to be present 
 again by daybreak the next morning. Only the old 
 man, however, was at hand by noon, — a confirmation 
 of the impression w^e had formed from the evidence, 
 that the young rascal richly deserved the flogging, 
 which the friends of the grey-beard administered. 
 And such seemed to have been the conclusion of 
 their own chief, Umkonto, who was present at the 
 trial, and by whom the case had been adjudicated 
 in the first instance ; for he was the chief of both 
 the parties, though they belonged to difierent kraals. 
 Considering that the three young men had no busi- 
 ness whatever in another man's hut without his leave, 
 and that one of them had suffered in his back and 
 bones, but would not have gone upon the business 
 without the support and presence of the other two, 
 he adjudged them each to pay a goat to the suft'erer 
 B 2
 
 24:4: TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 as a salve for his wounds. One of them had ah-eady 
 paid the goat, worth 5s. ; the other demurred, observ- 
 ing, that his friend, the plaintiffs body, " was not 
 worth it." Before the trial began, each had to 
 deposit 5s. as costs, which I have little doubt was in 
 this case forfeited by the young accuser. 
 
 All that the Kafir wants, I am told, when brought 
 before a magistrate, or when he comes to you in 
 any trouble or difficulty, is that you shall hear what 
 he has to say. They cannot bear to be taken short 
 with sharp questions. " Did you do so and so %" 
 " Why, yes ; but . . ." " Did you do so, I ask'?" 
 They would like to give their whole account ; " I did 
 it, but not from the motive you assign :" and, when 
 you have heard the tale, do what you think right, 
 and they will submit without a murmur, believing 
 that you have done what is just. 
 
 Wednesday, Ai^^ril 12. — After an early dinner, 
 I started, with Mr. Mesham and his Kafir interpreter, 
 Edward, for the Rev. Lewis_^Grout's at the Umsun- 
 dusi. We had first to climb the high barrier of 
 which I spoke, in the ascent of which my poor horse 
 had a repetition of his former desperate work, in 
 scaling the rocky stairs of Pakade's stronghold. I 
 found, by the bye, that he had been very imperfectly 
 groomed by that scamp Jantjee, with whom I had 
 just parted; and his ears had to bQ relieved of 
 several lai'ge ticks, disgusting-looking creatures, of a 
 pale-blue colour, and as big as a large black currant, 
 for which this valley of the Inanda has a very bad re- 
 putation. These ticks, like the sheep-tick in England,
 
 TEX \\'EEKS IX NATAL. 24-5 
 
 only attach themselves to animals ; but there is 
 another, (the male, T believe, of the same species,) 
 ■which I have caught now and then upon my hands 
 or face, especially if I had been travelling through 
 the high grass, which frequently overtopped my head 
 as I rode along. This one is very much in shape 
 and appearance, I must confess, like a small English 
 bug ; but though it sticks very close where it has 
 fastened, and sometimes requires a drop of oil to be 
 laid on to detach it, its bite is not felt at all, and 
 leaves no effects whatever behind. There is yet 
 a third species, corresponding very much to the 
 " hai'vest-bug " — exceedingly minute, so as to be 
 almost invisible — which buries itself in the skin, 
 and causes considerable irritation, just as the latter 
 does in England. I mention these nuisances, that I 
 may not conceal from my readers the disagreeables 
 of the colony ; and these ticks, and rather severe 
 boils, which are not unfrequently experienced after 
 landing, probably as a kind of acclimatising process, 
 are really the only ones to be named — except, of 
 course, the general roughness of colonial life in Natal 
 as elsewhere. But -with respect to the former 
 nuisance, the ticks, though I rode aboiit so much in 
 the wildest parts, I do not remember altogether to 
 have found more than six on my person ; and they 
 are much more common along the coast, and then 
 chiefly in the heat of the summer, than in the inte- 
 rior about Maritzburg. And, as to the Natal sores 
 or boils, they are such exactly as I have known among 
 my parishioners in Norfolk, and are doubtless the
 
 246 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 result of an effort of nature to throw off something 
 deleterious, which may or may not have arisen from 
 w^ant of care, or excess in labour or in food. I did not 
 suffer from this cause myself ; but I must add, that, 
 while sailing back from Natal to the Cape, after my 
 ten weeks' residence and exertions, I did feel certain 
 sensations on my arm, which might have resulted in 
 a veritable boil, had I remained any longer in the 
 summer heat of Durban. 
 
 On this point, however, of the salubrity and 
 general characteristics of the climate of Natal, I may 
 as well quote a few extracts from the reports made 
 to the Secretary of State for the Colonies, by official 
 persons, as given in the Blue Books of 1850 and 
 1851. 
 
 " The climate of Natal is very healthy, but, I 
 think, more salubrious at some distance from the 
 coast. There appears to be scarcely any disease 
 incidental to the country. Dysentery is not fre- 
 quent. Ophthalmia occurs occasionally, and is, 
 perhaps, the only disease of the country. It is, 
 however, not often of a severe character. 
 
 " The rains commence with violent thunder-storms 
 about the month of September, and continue till 
 about April, when they also terminate with thunder. 
 During the rainy season, which is also the summer, 
 the average daily temperature is about 76°; but the 
 evenings are generally cooled by a S.E. breeze. The 
 thermometer rarely rises above 80°. The winter 
 tempei-ature varies from 50° to 60°. Frosts are 
 frequent in the higher parts of the district ; and at
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 247 
 
 the Mooi Eiver, in June, I have seen the ther- 
 mometer stand at 27°, at 7 a.m. Cold nights are 
 generally succeeded by warm days. Rain rarely 
 falls in the interior between or during the months 
 of May and August. On the coast the seasons are 
 not so well defined, as showers occur throughout 
 the year. Long droughts are almost unknown." — 
 Dr. Stangek, Surveyor General, Blice Booh, 1850, 
 p. 70. 
 
 "The climate is most healthy, and subject to none 
 of the epidemics that are incidental to other parts 
 of Africa. Could the fertility of the country, and 
 the salubrity of its climate, be pointed out, together 
 with advantages such as those we have mentioned, 
 we doubt not numbers of the class we allude to 
 (practical farmers, possessed of small capital, say 
 from 200^. to 500^.) would be found willing and even 
 anxious to avail themselves of the facilities, which 
 this district in particular promises to emigrants. 
 
 Wsr. Stanger, Surveyor General. 
 
 T. Shepstone, Diplomatic Agent. 
 
 C. J. GiBB, Lieut. KE." 
 
 Blue Book, 18.51, p. 34. 
 Passing now along close to the edge of the cliff, 
 we looked down into the luanda basin, and a more 
 extraordinary sight, surely, never met the eye. We 
 seemed to be standing on the edge of a gigantic 
 crater, perhaps twenty miles or more in diameter, 
 bounded by precipitous heights of 1,000 feet in per- 
 pendicular altitude, in which sometimes the bare rock 
 appeared, but generally they were covered with ver-
 
 24:8 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 dure to the very summit, and the kloofs (or hollows) 
 filled with forest-trees. But it was in the bottom 
 of this huge basin, that the most singular appearance 
 was exhibited. Imagine a large inland lake, covered 
 with huge waves, not crested with foam and wind- 
 driven, but rounded and regular as the waves of a 
 ground-swell, sweeping one after another along ; and 
 then conceive this surface suddenly to become fixed 
 and immovable, and clothed with a rich green cover- 
 ing of natural velvet, shaded here and there with 
 innumerable streaks of darker or lighter hue, accord- 
 ing as the shadows, or the rays of the setting sun, 
 were thrown upon it, — and you obtain some idea of 
 the strange scenery of this part of the Inanda Loca- 
 tion. " It cannot be called ivild" says Mr. Mesham, 
 in his evidence before the Natal Commission, " for 
 to the eye it is scenery most beautiful to behold. 
 Yet it is so billowy in its structure, so like the end- 
 less succession of ocean waves, as to render it for 
 the most part quite inaccessible to wagon-travelling." 
 Speaking of the whole Inanda district, an extent of 
 900 square miles, Mr. Mesham writes as follows : — 
 " The face of nature in this territory presents to the 
 view such varied and wild contortions, as to make it 
 almost idle to attempt a description. Yet it seems to 
 me too marvellous a country to be left wholly unde- 
 scribed ; where the eqixal elevations and rugged sides 
 of the mountains, with the adjacent gulfs and gorges, 
 and the ten thousand intervening hills and valleys, 
 ridges and slopes, brooks and waterfalls, all combine 
 in a scenery at once wild, grand, and beautiful."
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL, 249 
 
 Having gazed for awhile on this glorious spec- 
 tacle, we went on our way, winding along for a time 
 close to the edge of the basin, with all its wondrous 
 beauty spread out beneath us, many hundred feet 
 below. By-and-by we turned aside from it, and 
 before long I had the great satisfaction of finding 
 that my good friend, Mr. Mesham, an old experi- 
 enced colonist of thirteen years' standing, had fairly 
 lost his way. We had still an hour and a half of 
 daylight before us ; but an hour is soon lost in 
 wandering about the veldt. Our first attempt to 
 recover the path cost us half an hour, and that was 
 unsuccessful; except that it brought us near a Kafir 
 lad, who was tending some oxen, and from whom we 
 were just able to make out that we were certainly now 
 in the lurong road, though we could not clearly learn 
 from him which was the right one. At this moment, 
 upon a neighboimng height, cantering along on the 
 very road we had just forsaken, was seen the form of 
 our attendant, Mr. !Mesham's interpreter, Edward, 
 who had been sent back by his master on business 
 soon after we started, and was now spurring on to 
 overtake us. Of coux'se we hailed him, and were 
 soon in the right way again, which, I doubt not, my 
 dear friend, the magistrate, would have found in 
 due time, but which it amused me much that he 
 managed to miss. 
 
 We reached at length Mr. Lewis Grout's, and rode 
 along the avenue of beautiful seringas — the growth of 
 some four or five years only — to the Missionary pre- 
 mises. Mrs. Grout, I was grieved to learn, had been
 
 250 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 for a long time very seriously ill, and, though recover- 
 ing, was only just able to see us for a moment, and 
 express her welcome. But her husband most kindly 
 discharged the duties of hospitality towards us. 
 We spent the evening in conversation on Missionary 
 matters. Mr. Lewis Grout is a strong Independent, 
 I find, as some others of the American body are. 
 Mr. Lindley and Mr. Aldine Grout (no relation 
 whatever of Mr. L. Grout) are both Presbyterians. 
 Altogether the exertions of the American Board of 
 Missions, among the natives in this colony, for which 
 their nation is not responsible as ours is, may well 
 put to shame the doings of the Church of England. 
 They have twelve Stations along the coast, main- 
 tained at an expense last year of 2,300/. numbering 
 166 church-members, and 801 average attendants 
 on Sunday worship ; while the Church of England 
 has hitherto done nothing, except by the vote of 
 500/. a-year made two years ago by the S. P. G., in 
 answer to the appeal of the Bishop of Capetown, 
 who wished to found ten Stations, at a cost of 500/. 
 each. 
 
 Thursday, A2:)ril 13. — There were on this Station, 
 I found, only ten adult converts as yet, with nine of 
 whom I had a short conversation this morning, but 
 nothing remarkable was elicited, 
 
 I then started for a long ride to the Station of the 
 Rev. Aldine Grout, upon the Umvoti Eiver. For 
 the first few miles, I had the pleasure of Mr. Me- 
 sham's company ; and, when he left me, he gave 
 me as a guide, his interpreter, Edward, a nice, clever,
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 251 
 
 Kafir youth, ■who had been under Mr. Lindley's 
 teaching. We pushed on, by narrow Kafir tracks, 
 as rapidly as the state of the paths, and considera- 
 tion for our horses, would allow. The country was 
 beautiful, as usual ; but sometimes we had to pass 
 through the thick bush, indeed more dense and 
 forest-like than any I had ridden through before. 
 It was quite conceivable, that at any moment some 
 wild creature might be started from its lair at one's 
 feet, or some huge reptile be discovered, dangling in 
 the air, over one's head. And such apprehensions 
 would not have been altogether groundless, inas- 
 much as, within sight of Mr. L. Grout's Station, 
 which 1 had just left, a whole herd of elephants was 
 grazing one day, since I have returned to England, 
 and eleven of the number were killed by the natives. 
 A lion, too, has been committing some depredations, 
 of late, upon the farms along the coast not far from 
 Durban. Otherwise, it was imagined that the more 
 savage animals, which formerly were very numerous, 
 had been all expelled from the colony, by the pi*e- 
 sence of the white man. Nothing, however, of the 
 kind was seen upon this journey, nor in any of my 
 Natal rides have I witnessed anything out of the 
 common, in the way of animals, except a few harm- 
 less bucks, birds, and insects. 
 
 We crossed the Tongati, and off-saddled for an 
 hour, during which I read the following passage, 
 upon a scrap of an American Missionary Intelli- 
 gencer, which I had picked up somewhere on my 
 travels. It was the report of a Colporteur, who was
 
 252 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 describing to his employers the manner in which lie 
 conducted his ministry, entering fii'st one house and 
 then another, and distributing according to the 
 necessities of each. In one, for instance, he would 
 find the j)eople careless and negligent in divine 
 things, and then he would talk to them about the 
 heathen, and what would become of tliem; and would 
 ask them what would become of themselves, if they 
 lived like heathen. " They would perish lihe those 
 heathen; and their children, about whom they 
 thought so much, would twine about them, like 
 creepers on a gnarled oak, and they would burn — 
 burn — burn on, for ever!" 
 
 Here is another passage from the correspondence 
 of a Missionary. Speaking of the heathen, the 
 writer says : " Every hour, yea, every moment, they 
 are dying, and dying, most of them, without any 
 knowledge of the Saviour. On whom now rests the 
 responsibility? If you fail to do all in your power 
 to save them, will you stand at the judgment guilt- 
 less of their blood? Said a heathen child, after 
 having embraced the Gospel, to the writer, 'How 
 long have they had the Gospel in New England ? ' 
 When told, she asked, with great earnestness, ' Why 
 did they not come and tell us before ? ' and then 
 added, ' My mother died, and my father died, and 
 my brother died, without the Gospel.' Here she 
 was unable to restrain her emotions. But, at length, 
 wiping away her tears, she asked, ' Where do you 
 think they have gone ? ' I, too, could not refrain 
 from weeping, and, turning to her, I inquii-ed,
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 253 
 
 ' Whei-e do yott' think they have gone?' She hesi- 
 tated a few moments, and then rephed, with much 
 emotion, ^ I suppose they have gone down to the 
 dark place — the dark pkxce. ! why did they not 
 tell us before ? ' It wrung my heart, as she repeated 
 the question, ' Why did they not tell us before % ' " 
 
 I quote these passages, not for a moment wishing 
 it to be supposed, that the good American Mission- 
 aries of Natal hold and preach, as a body, these 
 fearful doctrines — God forbid ! — but to enter my own 
 solemn protest against them, as utterly contrary to 
 the whole spirit of the Gospel, — as obscuring the 
 Grace of God, and perverting His Message of Love 
 and " Goodwill to man," and operating, with most 
 injurious and deadening effect, both on those Avho 
 teach, and on those who ai*e taught. Why ! if such 
 be indeed the condition of the heathen world, how 
 can a Christian comfortably eat butter with his 
 bread, ride in a carriage, wear a fine nap upon his 
 coat, or enjoy one of the commonest blessings of 
 daily life 1 What a monster of selfishness that man 
 must be, who could endure the thought of ease or 
 enjoyment in body or soul, for himself, while such 
 was the horrible destiny of so many millions of his 
 fellow-men, simply because they knew not — had 
 never heard of — that Name of Love, and the Hope 
 of Life Eternal ! 
 
 After another ride, of two hours and a half, we 
 reached Mr. Aldine Grout's, a most cheerful and 
 happy-looking Station; and the appearance of the 
 Missionary and his wife corresponded thoroughly
 
 254 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 with that of the place. There was a bright glow of 
 health and activity about the work here, which very 
 much refreshed me ; and certainly I heard nothing 
 from Mr. and Mrs. A. Grout about the utter hope- 
 less depravity of the native character, or the necessity 
 of strictly separating their own children from all 
 intercourse whatever with the Kafirs. We wex'e 
 friends together at once, and talked very freely about 
 Missionary matters. " Could anything be done for 
 the American Missionaries, who were laying out 
 2,3001. a-year on their twelve Stations, but had no 
 grant of land whatever, and no security that their 
 Stations might not be taken from them at a mo- 
 ment's notice, and all their buildings confiscated 1 " 
 It would be, I imagine, contrary to colonial custom 
 or law, for the government to make free grants of 
 lands to aliens; and it is certainly possible that the 
 lands, on which they have built their Stations, selected 
 in very fine positions, all along the line of coast, 
 may at some future time be wanted by the pur- 
 chasers of farms for the gi'owth of sugar or cotton. 
 But it does seem very reasonable that, in return 
 for such valuable services as these devoted men are 
 rendering to the colony, they should be so far pro- 
 tected, as to have the purchase guaranteed to them, 
 (within certain limits, and subject to valuation by 
 surveyors on both sides,) of such buildings as they 
 may have erected on any Mission-ground, which may 
 be required hereafter for colonial purposes. 
 
 Friday, April 14. — I awoke thoroughly refreshed 
 after my labours of yesterday, having richly enjoyed
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 255 
 
 Mrs. Grout's exquisitely clean bed, and cheerful airy 
 bedroom. We walked out iuto the well-stocked 
 garden, planted on a slope, at the bottom of which 
 flows the Umvoti, with the sea only two miles 
 off. There are alligators, it seems, in this river, and 
 it is not safe to bathe in it. I had the curiosity 
 to note down, as I looked around, the several pro- 
 ducts of the garden which met my eye. They 
 were the following, with, probably, some others 
 which did not attract my notice, and all thriving 
 well, though a very miscellaneous collection ; viz. 
 arrow-root, ginger, cabbages, yams (three sorts), 
 papaus, beet-root, onions, carrots, pine-apples, beans 
 (of all kinds), peas, sugar-cane, turmeric, j^otatoes, 
 sweet potatoes, peaches, oranges, lemons, quinces, 
 custard-apples, (common apples will grow too,) pump- 
 kins, vegetable marrows, mealies, tomatas, bananas, 
 mulberries, guavas, grenadillas, peppers, chilies, 
 cayenne, ground-nuts, (producing a very valuable 
 oil, likely to be an extensive article of commerce,) 
 strawberries, (said to be delicious,) grapes, parsley, 
 coriander, rape, (grows like a weed, winter and 
 summer, cannot be rooted out,) salads and pot-herbs, 
 pomegranates, &c. It appears that the mulberry 
 grows remarkably well in this colony. Mr. Grout's 
 plants were cuttings only last June; they wei'e now 
 higher than our heads, and are green all the year 
 long. " In America," he said, " they did not grow 
 at all like this, and had to be buried all the winter." 
 Thei'e seems to bo no reason in the world why we 
 should not grow silk largely in Natal. And, since I
 
 256 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 have returned to Euglaud, I hear that the experi- 
 ment is being made on a small scale. 
 
 We now proceeded to the schoolroom, where the 
 people were assembled, the chapel not being as yet 
 completed. There were present aboxit ten men and 
 ten women, fifteen young girls, and sixteen children ; 
 but the whole number of church-members was 
 forty- seven, of whom thirteen had been received 
 during the year, and the average attendance at Sun- 
 day worship was 150. We began with all repeating 
 together the Lord's Prayer in Kafir, and then singing 
 a hymn, which latter they did very melodiously. 
 The Kafirs have good voices, and are very fond of 
 singing, and, in fact, are a musical people. But 
 they like grand and stately music, such as good 
 church tunes and chorales; while the Hottentots 
 delight in a jig or other light air, to which they 
 wriggle about their bodies in a perfect ecstasy of 
 enjoyment. The Zulus have a native musical in- 
 strument, a sort of bow with a gourd attached to 
 the string, which latter, being struck by a little stick 
 or plectrum, produces (no sound, but) a vibration 
 only, which gratifies the performer, as he stalks 
 about the street playing it, and annoys nobody else. 
 
 I then conducted a little examination in matters 
 of common knowledge, geography, explanation of 
 natural phenomena, &c. ; for Mr. Gi'out is the first, I 
 believe, who lias attempted to introduce instruction 
 of this kind among his people. One day he predicted 
 to them an eclipse of the moon ; and, on the evening 
 before it was to happen, he bi'ought out a globe,
 
 TEN "WEEKS IN NATAL. 20l 
 
 and managed to give them a rough explanation of 
 the event, and told them that it would take place at 
 such an hour in the morning. In the morning they 
 "were all ready, sitting down, and waiting for the 
 moon to be eclipsed : and, as the event did really 
 agree with the prediction, Mr. Grout has gained 
 great influence among them in consequence. I asked 
 them, accordingly, a few questions. " How is it 
 that the moon comes to be eclipsed 1 " " Because 
 of the earth ; it comes between the sun and moon." 
 " What makes the new moon*?" " The sun does not 
 shine on the part which we look upon." " What is 
 the shape of the earth?" " It is round — like a great 
 ball." I was amused to find that they seemed to 
 know rather more about America than England. 
 Their answers were quick and accurate enough, 
 to show that they are not at all wanting, as a race, 
 in intelligence ; and that such instruction must, (as, 
 of course, under any circumstances, it luoidd,) form 
 a special item in our list of subjects for their educa- 
 tion. I was a little surprised, however, to see 
 several of the children, and one or two of the young 
 "women, sitting unclothed before me — as naked as the 
 "wild heathen of the kraal — and that, -^vithin the 
 confines of a Mission station, and within the very 
 house of prayer. I was informed that many of the 
 people, having only recently ai'rived as refugees, 
 were still very poor ; and I suggested that a Sunday 
 '' Offertory" might very well be gathered from their 
 " richer" brethren, for the purpose of clothing them, 
 if they really stood in need of such charity. I gave 
 S
 
 258 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 Is, each to purchase a frock for six of the young 
 children ; and Mr. Grout read the others a lecture 
 on the impropriety of their appearance, to Avhich 
 they listened with evidently abashed faces. 
 
 We next selected the four oldest men for a little 
 separate inquiry, as usual — Mr. Grout being con- 
 siderably interested in the questions, which I had told 
 him I wished to put to them, as I had done to all 
 others. These, however, were still but young men, 
 and were mere boys, none older than ten years, 
 when they were first Christianised; and, therefore, 
 their reminiscences of pure heathenism could only 
 be faint shadows of their early childhood. It was 
 useless, we both felt, to ask of them what they or 
 their fathers believed before the Gospel reached them : 
 ])ut I thought there was a chance of our being able 
 to learn from them what they practised. And, par- 
 ticulai'l}'-, I wished to ascertain whether they could 
 corroborate at all the statement of the Norwegian 
 Missionary, which was quite new to Mr. Grout, viz. 
 that the Zulu parents sent their children out at 
 times, when they themselves took their meals, to 
 pray to umKulunkulu. They gave us immediately 
 the two Kafir names, as those by which their fathers 
 knew the Great Creator, before that of uTixo reached 
 them. And then Mr. Grout went on with his queries. 
 "Used they to eat with their parents, when they 
 were children?" "0 no!" ''What did they do, 
 then, when their parents sat down to eat?" "They 
 used to go out, and play." " Did their parents ever 
 tell them to go and pray to timKulunkulu, to give 
 
 \
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 259 
 
 them meat, corn, cows, &c. ? " "0 no ! " and they 
 laughed innocently, good Christians as they were, at 
 the notion of their heathen parents teaching them 
 to pray. We were — at least, I was — a little discom- 
 fited, and disappointed : though I had no reason, for 
 all this, to doubt the authority of Mr. Oftebro upon 
 the subject. But — while Mr. Grout and I were 
 talking together, and concluding tliat they might 
 have been too young to notice or remember such a 
 practice, when they were first taken from their state 
 of heathenism, and brought under Christian teaching 
 — we observed the face of one of them suddenly 
 gleam, as it were, with a bright flash of memory, 
 and he began instantly to chatter vivaciously with 
 his three brethren, who were very soon in a similar 
 state of excitement. With eager eyes and unanimous 
 A^oices, they turned to tell us that " they now recol- 
 lected there tvas such a practice among them, and 
 sometimes parents did send their children out to 
 call on umKulunkulu, though from lapse of time they 
 had almost forgotten it." 
 
 From all I saw at this Station, I could not wonder 
 that the Missionaries were greatly beloved by their 
 people, and even by the wild Kafirs around them. 
 In fact, Dr. Sutherland, at Durban, had told me that 
 he had, not long ago, been staying three weeks here^ 
 in attendance on ^Irs. Grout, who was then very ill ; 
 and, every two or three days, there would come ten 
 or twelve Kafii's, from distances of two or three 
 miles, to inquire for her, and to ask to see her, which 
 they were allowed to do for a moment, standing at 
 s 2
 
 260 TEX WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 the door of her room. And yet only a few of these 
 were Christian Kafirs. 
 
 A very similar proof of the affectionate sympathy 
 of the Kafir people is given in the following extract, 
 which I copy from a letter of the Rev. Mr. Wilder, of 
 the Umtwalumi Station, to the American Board of 
 Missions. " T was much affected, a few weeks ago, 
 when Mrs. Wilder was very sick, and I was daily 
 fearing that she would die, by the frequent visits 
 they (the heathen of the neighbourhood) made, to 
 inquire about her, and to comfort and sympathise 
 with me. Heathen though they were, they would 
 talk to me of God's mercy, of His sovereignty and 
 power, of my duty to trust Him, because he would 
 do all things well, like ministers of the Gospel. One 
 day, when my own heart was almost bursting with 
 fear and sorrow, and with rebellion against what 
 God seemed about to do, four men came, and talked 
 so piously, and repeated so much of what I had told 
 them in my sermons, as also of what I had said to 
 one of them who had been sick, that I could not 
 have been more surprised, had an angel from heaven 
 appeared, to reprove, and strengthen, and comfort 
 me. And yet these were naked, filthy, heathen! 
 I wept, and felt like covering my face, and bowing 
 in the dust before God, who thus spoke through 
 them to me in my loneliness and anguish." Verily, 
 such "heathen" men could not, we must think, have 
 been very far from the Kingdom of God. 
 
 I heard also of the following facts, which are in- 
 dicative of the same kindly spirit among the people. 
 
 I
 
 TEN' WEEKS IX NATAL. 2G1 
 
 In the Zulu country, a trader was taken ill with 
 a dangerous fever, and the chief of the neighbouring 
 tribe forbade any of his people going near him. In 
 the dead of night, however, a silent step approached 
 him, and some charitable Kafir brought regularly a 
 supply of food for the morrow. By this means his 
 life was sustained, and he ultimately recovered, 
 though at the certain risk of life to his black friend, 
 not only from the danger of the infection, but from 
 the punishment which would have followed detection 
 at the hands of his chief, living, as he did, beyond 
 the bounds of British jurisdiction. 
 
 Again, Mr. , lately a Kafir magistrate, was 
 
 once also very ill in the interior, and lay so long 
 upon his side, that, at length, it became diseased, and 
 the worms ate into it. In this state he was most 
 assiduously tended by the Kafirs of the tribe nearest 
 to him, who performed for him, with all possible 
 kindness and gentleness, the most disagreeable 
 services; so that he was in a measure restored by 
 their attentions, though, from the suffering and ex- 
 haustion which he then endured, among other causes, 
 he has since become completely deranged in intellect. 
 One of his last acts, before I left Maritzburg, was to 
 write a wild note to my friend, Mr. Shepstone, in 
 which he derived my name, Colenso, from two Kafir 
 words, Icola, to satisfy, (whence Jcohva, to be satisfied, 
 to believe,) and enza, to make — "to make believers" 
 — " to convert." 
 
 I had arranged to leave the Umvoti after an early 
 dinner, and ride to Compensation that evening,
 
 2G2 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 where I was to be the guest of Mr. J. B. Millar, 
 whose wife had lately gone to England, and inspect 
 his sugar plantations. But j ust at noon there came 
 up a Kafir messenger on foot from the Bay, to say 
 that the Natal had arrived at last, and would sail on 
 Monday again for the Cape. I had many things to 
 do at Durban, and had therefore no time to lose; so 
 I made up my mind to start as soon as possible, and 
 ride down to the Bay (46 miles) that night. Of 
 course, it would have been easy to have done this, by 
 starting after noon upon English roads. But here, 
 though the greater part of my journey would be 
 upon the main line of the coast road, leading from 
 Panda's country down to Durban, yet some of it 
 was rough, some hilly, some through the bush; 
 and several streams — among others the Tougati, and 
 above all the Umgeni, towards the end of the journey 
 — would have to be crossed. My expected host at 
 Compensation, I found, would no doubt have already 
 gone down, to meet Mrs. Millar and his children, 
 who had unexpectedly returned by the steamer to 
 Natal. 
 
 I started Edward, therefore, at once, leading my 
 horse, which, as well as his own and himself, he was 
 to rest and refresh at the Tougati, and there await 
 me. And after half an hour I followed him, on a 
 horse which Mr. Grout had kindly lent me, and with 
 one of his Kafirs, as a guide, mounted on another; 
 taking leave with much regret of the dear Missionaiy 
 party, who were rather startled at my sudden decision, 
 and very much wished me to remain till the morning.
 
 TEX WEEKS IN NATxVL. 2G3 
 
 And perhaps I should have done so, (/ only my 
 letters, just arrived from England, had been sent up 
 by the Kafir from Durban. 
 
 We rode on briskly ; but my poor horse began to 
 show unmistakeable signs of exhaustion, long before 
 we reached the Tongati ; and it was with some diffi- 
 culty that I brought him on, and reached its banks 
 at about 3 p.m. Here I found Edward and his 
 horses, but they had not yet been fed ; and I was 
 obliged to expend half an hour, while Mr. M'Keu, 
 the agent here for Chiappini's Sugar Company, very 
 kindly suj)plied my beasts with mealies, and myself 
 with milk — as well as my dark companion with food 
 to his liking. Mr. M'Keu spoke with great confi- 
 dence of his sugar-canes. " He had never seen finer 
 at their age in Jamaica; and he fully hoped that 
 next year he should have 200 acres under sugar, and 
 a mill at work." Then we rode on for miles, until at 
 length we reached the scattered hamlet of Verulam, 
 inhabited principally by Wesleyans. I off-saddled 
 here for half an hour, and called at two or three of 
 the houses, at one of which I was presented with a 
 liberal supply of milk, and a hearty invitation to 
 come and preach, to them. But no time was to be 
 lost. It was getting towards dusk, and there were 
 full twenty miles more of riding before us, and only 
 one horse for the work. So we passed on from the 
 good folk of Verulam, with whom I would gladly 
 have lingered awhile, and hope to make a closer 
 acquaintance when, please God, I return to the dio- 
 cese — as well as with those of York, who are also
 
 -!64: TEN "WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 mostly Wesleyans, and whom I have not been able 
 to see at all upon this Visitation. 
 
 After some time, Master Edward lingering behind 
 to chat with some Kafir friends, I rode forward 
 by myself, and — lost m}^ way, or, rather, took the 
 wrong one of two paths Avhich lay before me at a 
 fork, and was not informed of it by my guide, when 
 he came after me, till we had got a mile or two upon 
 it. The path I took would have been, I found, the 
 best road by day ; but at night it would not be 
 generally chosen, as being disagreeable and difficult, 
 if not dangerous, from its passing through a great 
 deal of thick " bush." This caused us a mile or 
 two extra of gallop in the dusk across the veldt, 
 to reach the house of Mr. Williams, upon whom 
 I had, providentially, resolved to call, in order to 
 thank him for his kind exertions on my behalf, on 
 the day I failed to meet him at Gee's Drift. I say, 
 'providentlalhj ; for, without his further aid, I do not 
 know how I should have got that night to Durban. 
 I might, indeed, under Edward's guidance, by the 
 light of the moon, when it rose, have reached at 
 length the banks of the Umgeni ; but to have 
 crossed the river, as will presently appear, would 
 have been out of the question. Pitch-darkness pre- 
 sently caitie on, and we had considerable difficulty 
 in finding the house. But, Avhen we reached it, all 
 was made plain for me at once ; and Mr. Williams 
 himself, as well as his host, most readily offered to 
 see me safe over the Umgeni. 
 
 So, after taking tea, we started, now with bright
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 265 
 
 moonlight, and liad a very romantic ride for some 
 miles through the "bush," abounding, beyond doubt, 
 with wild creatures, which, however, the presence 
 of four horsemen was sufficient to keep at a distance. 
 By 101- P.M. we reached Gee's Drift ; but here we were 
 met by a staggering difficulty. Mi'. Gee's house was 
 on the other side of the river, which was flowing wide, 
 and in some places deep, before us; and Mr. Gee's 
 boat was safely moored beside his house. It was in 
 vain that we shouted and yelled for him; and, by and 
 by, we began to suspect that the ferryman did not, 
 perhaps, choose to be disturbed in his repose. This 
 suspicion was turned into certainty, by one of our 
 party galloping off to a cottage hard by, and learn- 
 ing, for our satisfaction, that Mr. Gee had made it 
 " a rule," never to go across after dark. The owner 
 of the house came down to the bank, and told us 
 that he had once kept a boat here himself, but had 
 been beaten off the gi-ound by Mr. Gee, who for 
 some small consideration had purchased the right of 
 way on the other bank, exclusively for himself and 
 his passengers. And not long ago, he said, his wife 
 wished to cross about 6 p. m. ; but " the rule" would 
 not allow of her being taken at that hour. So she 
 took off her shoes and stockings, waded through the 
 mud, unfastened the boat, and ferried herself over; 
 and then her husband was threatened with an action 
 for the trespass committed on the boat. 
 
 What was now to be done ? Our new friend pro- 
 posed to send two of his own Kafirs through the 
 river on our horses, which, he thought, would not
 
 266 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 need to swim; and they might then unfasten the 
 boat, and bring it over for us. Two uncertainties, 
 however, attended the carrying out of this proposal. 
 One was, that Mr. Gee might liave locked the chain 
 of his boat, as he had done for some time after tlie 
 goodwife had made use of it; the other, that the 
 Kafirs, by their bustle and chattering, might wake 
 up the slumbering river-god, and bring him down 
 to the bank in wrath, before his bark was fairly 
 afloat. It was an anxious time for us, while by the 
 clear moonlight we watched their proceedings on 
 the other side of the river. But the deed was done 
 at last, and the boat brought over, and we ferried 
 across the stream; and then I was carried through 
 the mud, by which the bank was fringed for a yard 
 or two, upon the back of the friendly stranger, and 
 safely deposited, about the midnight hour, on dry 
 land. Our poor horses, after we had mounted them, 
 had to plunge through an awful mud-hole, in which 
 they sank nearly up to their bellies; but then a 
 brisk and pleasant ride of four miles brought us 
 happily to the camp, where, alas ! I found no let- 
 ters — they w^ere somewhere in secure keeping at 
 some too careful friend's in the town. 
 
 Saturday, April 8. — News from England, and, 
 thanks be to God, all good. And here is the way 
 most providentially opened for my retui-n, by the 
 arrival of the Natal, on her first trip — not, as I had 
 expected, in time to bring me up to the diocese, but 
 in time to bring me doiv7i to the Cape. _Thus I shall 
 escape the misery of spending a week on board the
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 2G7 
 
 dirty, and eveu dangerous, ;S'(V B. Feel. Besides, if the 
 Natal had not been at hand, to come up with these 
 mails, they would have had to wait for the Fed's 
 return voyage. And she left the bay too recently 
 to allow of her coming up for a week or two; in 
 which case she would be too late to catch the home- 
 ward-bound steamer from India this month, and 
 I should have to wait for the next, and waste much 
 time at Capetown. 
 
 [In point of fact, the Feel did come up about 
 ten days after I left, and was all but lost on 
 her return voyage to the CajDe — being quite worn 
 out, and unfit for service. Whereas the Natal 
 reached the Cape with me on the morning of 
 Easter Day, April 16; and on that very evening 
 the Indiana came in, which brought me happily to 
 England, on May 27, after an absence of rather 
 more than five months. Two months after my re- 
 turn, the Indian steamers were entirely taken off.] 
 
 I was occupied to-day in settling various mattei's 
 of business. My dear friend, Mr. Shepstone, who had 
 watched over me, during my journeys among the 
 tribes, with more than a brother's affection and care, 
 would not let me go, without riding down from 
 Maritzbiu-g to see the last of me ; and had the great 
 joy of finding that his own two boys had landed from 
 the Natal, of which fact he had had no hint or ex- 
 pectation when he started. As I passed through 
 Capetown in January, whither they had been sent to 
 the Bishop's College at Woodlands, they were wait- 
 ing for some means of conveyance home to Natal
 
 2G8 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 
 
 for the Christmas hohdays. The Calcutta could not 
 take them — the Peel was deemed unsafe — and the 
 Natal had now brought them, just four months after 
 their vacation had begun. So much for the use we 
 can make at Natal of the educational institutions of 
 Capetown ! Of course, they can be of no avail to us 
 whatever. The very expense of going to and fro for 
 the holidays once a-year would be twelve guineas each 
 way — or more than 261. ! ! — for each child. 
 
 Sxinday, April 9. — Rode off at 7^ a.m., four miles, 
 to consecrate a burial-groimd at Sea- View. Returned 
 in time to preach an S.P.G. sermon, on behalf of the 
 Zulu Missions — collection about 10/. 
 
 Thank God ! I have now finished my work — 
 except that I regret exceedingly not to have been 
 able to visit, as I intended, and should have done, 
 had the Natal been delayed only two or three days 
 longer, the stations of the American Missionaries to 
 the South of Dui'ban, and some others to the North, 
 particularly Mr. Dohne's under the Table Mountain. 
 One of the most distinguished of their body, Dr. 
 Adams, had died not long before I reached the 
 colony ; but there are many able and devoted men 
 among his successors, whose friendship I should 
 have been glad to have acquired before quitting 
 the colony. I was sorry also not to have seen the 
 Wesleyan Station on the Zwaart Kop, not far from 
 Maritzburg. I was on the point of visiting that 
 which they have at Indaleni, near Richmond, and 
 of which I could see the buildings from a distance ; 
 but I was informed that, since Mr. Allison had left it,
 
 TEN M'EEKS IN NATAL. 2 GO 
 
 no ■work was going ou thez'e, and only a Missionary iu 
 infirm health, and a few stray natives, resided there. 
 However, these visits were not essential to my pur- 
 pose in visiting the colony ; and I had many oppor- 
 tunities of observing the faithfulness and zeal of the 
 Wesleyan Ministers at Maritzburg, Messrs. Pearse 
 and Thomas, (both, it appeared, of my own county, 
 and one of my own birthplace, in England,) and Mr. 
 Speuseley at Dui'ban. Mr. Campbell, the Minister 
 of the Scotch Church, and Dr. Fa are, the head of the 
 Dutch Church, were absent from Natal during the 
 greater part of my stay ; so that I had not so much 
 opportunity of making personal acquaintance with 
 them. I had the pleasure of calling on the Roman 
 Catholic Bishop iu Maritzburg, and of receiving his 
 call in return. I found him a very gentlemanly 
 Frenchman, with a benignant expression of counte- 
 nance, and an appearance of sincerity and earnest- 
 ness about him, which I was rejoiced to witness. 
 He told me that there were not yet any Missionaries 
 of his Church among the natives ; but he was about, 
 without delay, to set some at woi'k. One of my 
 last duties, before I left Durban, was to write a 
 short f:\rewell note of brotherly love to him, as I 
 had not been able to call and take my leave of him 
 in Maritzburg. 
 
 I believe that I can thus live in charity and 
 union with my brethren in Christ, who are striving 
 to walk religiously before God, and to bring forth 
 fruit to their common Master, although I may not, 
 and certainly do not, agree with them on all points,
 
 270 TEN WEEKS IX NATAL. 
 
 and some of them important points, of faith and 
 doctrine — and that, without compromising in the 
 least my own Church principles. I believe the 
 Roman Catholic is in error, in holding as true, and 
 mingling with the essential Truth, as it is in Christ 
 Jesus, what I hold to be the fictions of men, uu- 
 scriptural and untrue. I believe the Wesleyan to 
 be in error, because, (in direct opposition to the 
 wishes and commands of his founder,) he has sepa- 
 rated from the Church of England, and taken upon 
 himself "the priesthood also." I believe the Pres- 
 byterian and Independent to be in error, because, as 
 it seems to me, they set at nought the testimony of 
 all history, and set up their own will, or the judg- 
 ment of the leaders of their body, against the ex- 
 ample and direct injunctions of our Lord's Apostles. 
 But, while I have cveiy reason to believe that 
 these men are all cleaving to the One Blessed Truth, 
 of a crucified, yet glorified. Saviour, of a Father^ 
 Who sent His own dear Son to save us, and a 
 Spirit, proceeding from the Father and the Son, Wlio 
 now lightens our eyes and teaches our hearts — while 
 I have reason to believe that they are walking daily 
 by faith in the Son of God, and seeking, by prayer 
 and communion with their Lord, to grow in holiness 
 and love, and in meetness for His Presence in 
 Heaven — I feel that we must " receive one another, 
 even as Jesus Christ has received us, to the glory of 
 God" — and that, as we hope to meet together here- 
 after, as fellow-servants in His Kingdom of Glory, so 
 we may and must walk together in brotherhood and
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL. 271 
 
 love by the wayside in this life, aud commune toge- 
 ther of onr Master's Will, and perchance be drawn 
 closer to one another even hex'e in Him, in Whom 
 we are One. 
 
 Monday, April 10. — At noon I received an affec- 
 tionate farewell address from a large party of the 
 townspeople ; and then, after taking refreshment, 
 provided by the kindness of His Honour, the Lieut.- 
 Governor, I rode down, accompanied by himself 
 and Mr. Shepstone, and about forty friends on 
 horseback, to the Point, from which a boat took me 
 to the steamer, — just at the very same hour, and on 
 the same day of the week, as that on which 1 had 
 landed from the Calcutta, — having spent, in the 
 interval, through God's Grace, a not inactive, and, 
 I would hope, not unprofitable, 
 
 TEN WEEKS IN NATAL.
 
 March 1, 1S55. 
 
 As the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel 
 has been unable, from want of funds, to contribute 
 any additional assistance as yet to the support of 
 the Natal Missions, I should be thankful for any help 
 which may be granted by the friends of Church 
 Missions, either by way of Donation, or Annual 
 Suhscrvption for Jive years ; which maybe forwarded, 
 either to the Natal Special Fund of the Gospel 
 Propagation Society, 79, Pall Mall, — or to Messrs. 
 Drummoxd's & Co., Charixg Cross, for the Bishop 
 of Natal, — or to the Treasurer of the Natal Fund, 
 George Stevens Allxutt, Esq., 30, Chaxcery Lane, 
 LoxDox, who has kindly undertaken the labour of 
 attending to the Financial Affiiirs of the Mission in 
 my absence. 
 
 It is requested that all Annual Suhscriptions may 
 be considered as becoming due on the first of January 
 in each year, and that all Fast-Office Orders may be 
 made payable to George Stevexs Allnutt, at the 
 Charixg-Cross Post-Office. 
 
 And any present of Books or Clothing may be 
 sent to Messrs. Savory, 18, Sidxey Street, Com- 
 mercial Road East, Londox, by whom it w^Il be 
 duly forwarded to the Colony. 
 
 J. W. NATAL.
 
 The following Extracts from Letters, wliicli I liave 
 received from Mrs. Woodrow and others, since my 
 return to England, will show the nature of the work 
 in wiiich we are already engaged, and which is daily 
 growing in interest and importance. 
 
 " On Easter Sunday my first three children came home. 
 I had planned asking them to dinner, because I thought 
 it would seem a treat to them, and they would be less likely 
 to fret. It was a great comfort to find them briglit and 
 happy. One G. M. was about 11, a pleasing-looking little 
 gii'l, with a patient expression of countenance, as if she had 
 suffered. H. L. 4 years, a fine boy, and M. L. his little sister, 
 2i, were the others. It was quite beautiful to see </ieiV de- 
 light in being restored to each other. They had for some 
 time been looked after by different persons. My little H. 
 came to me at night, to tell me that his 'poor mother was 
 dead,' and that 'Jlr. Jenkins [ihe clergyman] had taken her 
 away.' I directed his little mind to another world, where 
 his mother still lived, and where, I trusted, he would see 
 her again. His faithful heart received every word. He 
 begged to be laid in his bed with the blind up, that he 
 might look at the stars, which seemed his idea of heaven, 
 and he said, ' Put my little sister so that she may look at 
 the stars too.' The dear little sister is the most loving 
 thing, a picture of an English cottage child. When she 
 first saw me, she held out her arms to me, and repeated 
 continually, ' Mama, Mama,' as if there wei-e some happy 
 association in her mind. Their only fear was that they were 
 to leave me. AVhen I take them out to walk, they are 
 afraid I shall not bring them back again ; and little H. says 
 repeatedly, 'You won't be dead, too. Mama!' His mother's 
 death has deeply impressed his mind. Whenever he is most 
 happy, he suddenly seems to recollect it, and clings to me — 
 ' You won't be dead too, will you?' 
 
 "Our Kafir 'Boy' sleeps in t'ne stable, not in the kitchen ; 
 I could not get reconciled to that un-English custom ; and 
 now he has begged that his wife may come, which Mr. Shep- 
 stone advised me to grant, and in gratitude she washes the 
 children's clothing. He is really good and affectionate, and 
 a great favourite, and so is 'The Missus' with him, when 
 she does not find fault with him. He is a constant attendant 
 at the Wesleyan School, and has been baptized ' Abraham ' 
 since he has been with us. Little G. is our interpreter; 
 but I am picking up Kafir by sound. I think we shall get 
 on very happily ; his wife has attached herself to us, and he 
 2
 
 wishes her to learn housework and nice ways, and she seems 
 providentially thrown in my way. 
 
 " Our Kafir always brings everything he hreaTcs imme- 
 diately to me ; so that I have not an excuse for being cross, 
 and so, perhaps, making him less truthful ; but they are 
 — at least he is— very careful, and extremely clean and neat." 
 
 Afterwards Mrs. Woodrow writes : — " Our ' Boy' is getting 
 on very nicely. His wife is improving, and they are both so 
 anxious for their children to grow up in Christian and civi- 
 lized ways, that I think they Avill gradually become my 
 pupils. They observe the improvement in my children, from 
 soap and water and neat clothing, and come and look at us 
 ■wliile at our lessons and work. I often watch the eldest 
 child, a boy of about six or seven years ; he seems innocent 
 in his play, and his father tender with him, and he wislies to 
 join my children in their amusements. I like the Kafirs, — 
 there is something you must respect in them. I was obliged 
 to do a little scrubbing, in order to show 'Boy' what it 
 meant, and then he did it thoroughly. 
 
 " I have told you little G. is our interpeter. When ' Boy' 
 has anything on his mind, he comes to our school-room door, 
 looks over it, and says, ' AVhere Georgy 1' The other da}' he 
 did this, and, having found her playing on the ' stoep,' brought 
 her in, and gently, in his usual way, (lie is very gentle with 
 the children,) placed her half-way between himself and me. 
 * Now, Georgy, tell Missus.' Then G. explained that ' the 
 man standing by him was his brother — that he had been 
 entrusted as driver to a load of mealies, and had committed 
 some fault, — (we cannot quite make out what he did wrong, 
 but we think he was a day or two too late)^ — that he had been 
 taken before a magistrate, and fined ten shillings or con- 
 demned to the tronk (prison) — would I lend him the ten 
 shillings upon liis wages to free his brother T He was hired 
 at ten shillings a-month, and the month was nearly ended, so 
 that his wages was nearly due : but he had already borrowed 
 three shillings in advance, when he was going to be j^repared 
 for baptism, and he had also told me that his wife and his 
 two children were ill, and he could scarcely clothe himself 
 and su^iport them with his earnings. I reminded him of 
 these. ' What M'ill the poor little piccaninnies do, Boy?' He 
 looked very sorrowful, and the veins started on his forehead, 
 as he thought of his wife and children; but he only said, ' My 
 brother not go to the tronk ;' and he told little Georgie that 
 ' this month was "Jlh " (dead) — the Missus was to give him 
 nothing; and the next month she would only have to give 
 him 7s., and then she would have the money.' When I gave 
 it to him, he said in a tone quite humbling to me, it had so 
 much of reverence in it, ' The ilissus is good.' " 
 
 a'2 3
 
 Again Mr?. AVoodrow writes on July 3:^ — "Tlie children 
 are quite acquiring a love of Missionary work, and seem to 
 consider themselves one with all that is going on. Georgie, 
 with her knowledge of Dutch and Kafir, is a capital in- 
 terpreter. Amongst other attempts at self- improvement, 
 imagine Boy asking Georgie to lend him her scissors to 
 cut his hair, and then begging the gift of an old comb, and 
 the two little girls holding their looking-glass out at the 
 window that he might arrange it. Boy is very particular 
 too about his dress on Sunday; and yesterday be lifted 
 Georgie on a chair, that she might tie his cravat properly." 
 
 " Now I must tell you about our Missionary doings. Boy 
 takes great interest in the coloured illustrations of Scripture, 
 which Mr. Hose gave to the Mission. Through little Georgie, 
 as my interpreter, he now thoroughly knows them ; and 
 I have learned enough Kafir to teach them to his wife. Our 
 pictures are become so well known, from first one coming to 
 the house, and then another, that Kafirs arriving out of the 
 country, come to 'see the Missus's pictures, and learn about 
 Jesus Christ.' The more one knows of the Kafirs, the more 
 one gets interested in them. You must value them. There 
 seems to be an increasing earnestness among them to Isarn, 
 and they beg for schools. One day Boy came in — ' Missus, 
 Boy is very frightened ; more Kafirs come to know about, 
 Jesus Christ.' This tone of deprecation was because I had 
 told him that my children must not be neglected, and that 
 I cannot teach the Kafirs in their lesson-lime. Now the 
 Kafirs aliout here all know me, and I might have my room 
 filled with them — some of them knowing something about 
 Christianity, but imperfectly, and earnest to know more. 
 
 " Pray tell Mr. Eose how much his pictures ai'e valued here. 
 I always tell them, 'A good man in England gave them to 
 the Bishop to show to the Kafirs;' and this very much pleases 
 them. The pictures of the sufferings and crucifixion of our 
 Blessed Lord cut them to the heart. T4iey strike their breasts, 
 and turn away at the sight — so that it is quite a relief to show 
 the Ascension, just as one turns to Easter Sunday from Good 
 Eridaj'. Their questions, indeed, show both feeling and in- 
 telligence ; and it is very often ten at night before they leave 
 me, grieved that I do not know more of their language, and 
 humbled by their earnestness. Often, when their eager faces 
 are around me, I think of the disgust expressed by some in 
 England at the thought of teaching coloured people, and I 
 wish that I could only bring these simple-minded, earnest, 
 nohle people so livingly before them, that they might love 
 them as we do. They come to me of all ages, men and 
 women — some old men from the country, with their rings 
 upon their heads, and wrapped in their brown blankets?. 
 4 .
 
 There they sit down upon the kitchen-floor, our 15oy telling 
 them in his earnest way about Jesus CnuiST. These I cannot 
 speak to; but I manage to let them know that I care for 
 them, and Boy says they go away with ' tears in their hearts.' 
 
 " 3Ir. Robertson comes to us very often on Sunday from 
 liis tent on the Mission ground ; and yesterday some Kafirs 
 came in Avhilc he was here, and he went through some of the 
 pictures in their own language. Afterwards, while we were 
 at tea, some more Kafirs came in. Little Georgie told them 
 that I was going to Church ; upon which they said, ' Oh ! we 
 come two, three, times again for the ]\Iissus.' When I came 
 home I found them waiting, and we thoroughly enjoyed our 
 evening together. One of them, Peter, a young man, who 
 had been partially taught, told us that, when he was a little 
 child, he did not know about Jesus Christ ; but now he had 
 heard about Him, and Avishcd to know more, and how he 
 might get to Him when he died. Again and again he said, 
 ' Hoio 1 get to Him? Wlmt I do to get to Him]' Then, 
 •witli a very thoughtful look, he asked me, if prayers would 
 make him clean? would they make his brothers and his sis- 
 ters clean ? and he was quite rejoiced when I told him, that 
 it was his duty to pray for his parents, and his brothers and 
 sisters, and then to pray that all people might know Jesus 
 Christ. He finished by asking whether black people, as well 
 as white, might go with Him (the Lord Jesus) when He 
 comes again? There was but one answer to this; and I told 
 him also loliy he was hlack. It was ' because God the Father, 
 who had made him, loved him, and did not wish the hot sun 
 to kill him : we were icliite, because the sun was not so hot in 
 England ; and we should die here, if we went out into the 
 sun.' He quite understood this after a little time, and it 
 .seemed greatly to comfort him. 
 
 " One evening four Kafir women came, and it was touching 
 to see how they appreciated the picture of the 'little children 
 coming to Jesus.' With their infants in their arms, they told 
 each other that they might come to Him. The thought of 
 the Resurrection fills them with awe. They shade their eyes 
 with their hands, and, like St. Peter, they seem to say, ' De- 
 I^art from me, for I am a sinful man, Lord.' 
 
 " Your heart would have ached at the scene I have just 
 witnessed. Three old wrinkled Kafir women from the 
 country, who had never heard of their God and Saviour, 
 came to see the pictures, which some others had told them 
 of. I was so engaged in writing to you, that I gave them to 
 Boy, and told him to show them. They had been with him 
 a long time, when they begged to come and thank me. They 
 ivere weeping, and came and took my hand, and said, ' They 
 had never known anything about it.' It was heartrending^i 
 
 5
 
 see their careworn faces, -whicli spoke of life's trials and 
 troubles borne liitherto all alone. 
 
 " Oh ! if I had but the gift of Kafir ! Now, here is one of 
 my Kafirs come with a woman, who has just arrived from the 
 countr}', and has begged him to find her a 'Missus,' who 
 would teach her to work, and she would only ask for 
 food — no money. He brought her to me, and I cannot refuse 
 to take her. She looks so earnest, and wants to know about 
 ' the Book,' and to learn to earn her living." 
 
 " It is encouraging to see Mary's improvement. She can 
 now work; and it is the greatest kindness to teach them to 
 work, now that the Government requires them to appear 
 clothed in the towns. They cannot be tidy, until they can 
 work for themselves. She now mends her husband's clothes, 
 and is making herself a gown, while I Jlx it for her. They 
 think much of having their gowns long and full ; and you 
 would have laughed to see Boy come forward, when I was 
 measuring the skirt, ' Missus, it is for school — make it very 
 big here,' pointing round his feet. Mr. Robertson has given 
 me some clothing that was given to the ]\Iission party for 
 Kafirs, which is not so valuable as it might have been, from 
 its being so short. The Kafir women are very tall, and need 
 large gowns, if any one is so good as to send any more. It 
 would be a real kindness. They beg for cotton, or anything 
 to assist them to clothe themselves. It is so pleasant to look 
 into our kitchen at night : Mary sits working, and Boy 
 reading to her; and, when they go to their stable to sleep, 
 you may hear them singing hymns. Boy, in his simple ear- 
 nestness, is quite a Missionarj'. He says: 'The Bishop is 
 his baba (father) now,' and ' the Bishop must have schools up 
 the country, where his other baba and his bruders are.' It 
 is a good feature in the character of the Kafirs, that, when 
 they know anything of the truth themselves, they always 
 wish their relations to know it. Boy has a noble, warrior- 
 like brother, who, he is anxious, should love ' the Book.' He 
 is employed as a waggoner, and, whenever he comes to town, 
 we are sure to see his fine face at our window, where he 
 stands to look at the pictures. He is the man we saved from 
 fine and imprisonment, and he looks upon us as his friends. 
 
 "But we are all longing for your return, and cannot always 
 resist a feeling of loneliness and forebodings, especially Mr. 
 Eobertson, who is so much alone at the Station. His work 
 there seems gradually taking root and growing. Yesterday, 
 he told us of great encouragement he had in finding that a 
 party of Kafirs, who were hired to make the cattle-kraal on 
 the Mission ground, exiyected to be taught. Two other youths 
 also came begging him to teach them every day. He says 
 he shall now be able to proceed decidedly and in right
 
 earnest with liia -u'ork. lie had bccu feeling his vav, and 
 feared to drive them away if they did not wish to learn." 
 
 Again, July 17, Mrs. W. writes : — " Our good Peter is a 
 man of earnest piety, and comes now regularly every morn- 
 ing ; and I hare another pupil, Paul, and another, Jacob. I 
 do not yet know so much of Paul ; hut Peter, and Jacob, and 
 our own good Boy, are characters that you gain from in 
 teaching. Their chastened, reverent, earnestness and reality 
 of mind are such, that it strengthens your faith in what the 
 Kafir character may become, under the grace of God. Peter 
 already reads in English some Scripture lessons, which I 
 brought with me, printed in large type. They are in sheets, 
 and he takes one home with him every day after reading it, 
 and really meditates upon it, and tells me, in his low, earnest 
 voice, his thoughts, which are often very anxious. He is the 
 only member of his family who has embraced the Christian 
 faith ; and, contrary to our idea, there is strong family affec- 
 tion among the Kafir people. Peter said one day, — ' Ah, 
 3Iissus ! some days my heart is sad all day for my baba and 
 my bruders.' I have had three Kafir women to teach sewing 
 to. I make them wash their hands, and sit on a form, and work, 
 which they do very nicely. They have been taught to read 
 and sing by AVesleyan or American Jlissionaries ; and often I 
 ask them to place their hymn-books before them, while they 
 woi'k, and they sing very sweetly ; and sometimes Boy comes 
 in to write, and then he joins in witli his deep bass voice. 
 Jlary, his wife, has just been sent for to her parents in the 
 country, who are both ill ; and this duty of attending to their 
 parents' wishes is another amiable trait in the natural cha- 
 racter of the Kafirs. I asked Boy, when he came to tell me 
 that ilary must go to her mother, how they knew she needed 
 her. ' When the baba or the mama sick, the Kafula tell each 
 other, " Come on, come on — baba is sick ;" and then they no 
 sebenzi (work) — they go; and Slary not good to stay when 
 her mama want her.' 
 
 "It is so touching to see how mere sympathy brings them 
 to you. But really my people are getting too much for me. 
 Last night the room \.as so full — there were at least forty: I 
 stopped counting at thirty, because there were so many more. 
 These had, most of them, been taught more or less by some 
 of the other Missionaries. They began with singing a hymn 
 from their little books ; and then Peter said the Lord's 
 Prayer, all responding. Then Peter stood by me, and I gave 
 him in English a rough outline of the Scripture subject 
 in the picture, which he interpreted into Kafir. It was delight- 
 ful to see their quiet courtesy and reverent attention. Our 
 Boy sat the picture of happiness. He never puts himself for- 
 ward : his pure delight is to see people learning good things. 
 
 7
 
 They asked, if they might sing another hymn before leaving. 
 I could not but think of the war shouts and wild screams, 
 "tt'liich had startled London cars, when the Zulus were exhi- 
 bited last year in St. George's Gallery, and raised a doubt, in 
 6ome good people's minds, Avhother such a set of savages could 
 ever be civilized at all. The pictures, that we have had of 
 them in England, do not do justice to the Kafirs, as I have 
 known them. There is an exjiression of thought, and goodness, 
 and intelligence about them, which I never saw in the repulsive 
 figures, that we had of them in books. But, in spite of all, it 
 does make one feel a little nervous, to be all alone amongst so 
 many dark faces. Nevertheless, I trust it is God's work. My 
 gaining of their confidence in this way has been entirely 
 involuntary on my part. I thoiiglit I had been only living 
 for my orphan children, and yet I am throughout the day 
 receiving Christian and Heathen Kafirs. And it all seems one 
 work with my children, and my strength is so su2'>ported, 
 that it is like one great blessing on my life." 
 
 Since the above was written, Mrs. Woodrow has been 
 suffering from serious illness, brought on, I fear, from over- 
 work ; but a letter has reached me from her, (Ucc. 12,) of the 
 date Oct. 2. from which the following passages are taken : — 
 
 " Mr. Robertson longs for your return. He is very anxious 
 to have buildings got up upon the Mission ground, where the 
 Avork is daily growing in importance, and to devote his whole 
 time to the Kafirs there. He is waiting to write by the Natal; 
 but, in case my letter should reach you first, he begged me 
 to tell you that, since he last wrote, two more families had 
 come to settle on the ground, and others are coming. He 
 continues the Sunday evening service here in town at the 
 ' Home,' which is regularly attended ; and if we had any 
 building with a hdJ, set apart as a chapel for the Kafirs, I do 
 think we should have a large congregation. At present there 
 is a very interesting gathering of black faces; and ]\'Ir. 1?. 
 has practice in Kafir preaching. I am sure ne will have told 
 you of his dear Kumgani, whom we had under our care for six 
 weeks." (This youth had met with a severe accident on the 
 Mission ground, by which his leg bad been broken ; and Mr. 
 E. had taken him at once into the town, and put him under 
 the kind care of Mrs. Woodrow.) " He is now returned to 
 the Station, restored, but still lame. Since he left us, his 
 mother has been to visit him, brought by reports in his tribe 
 that he was becoming a Christian. Mr. Eobertson had 
 cherished hopes about him, but was not prepared for such 
 a touching scene as his mother's visit caused. With great 
 emotion, he told her that ' it was quite true ' — that 'he could 
 never return to his tribe as one of them' — but that ' he would 
 continue to love them, and send them presents, and would visit 
 8
 
 them after a year's time.' lie begged her to give wliat he had 
 of his owu in the kraal, as remembrances to tiiosc of his tril)0 
 who were most dear to him, reserving tiie best spear he had 
 for Mr. Eobertson. It was a most painful thing to hear the 
 plaintive pleadings of the mother, telling him that ' it was 
 breaking up his kraal' — that ' to lose one son was to her like 
 losing all;' and to witness the poor boy's distress in taking 
 leave of her. Mr. R. says, it almost depressed his own spirit 
 amidst his heartfelt rejoicings at this first-fruits of his Mis- 
 sionary labours. He is now being prepared for baptism. His 
 accident was the means of keeping him from being carried back 
 to his tribe ; for the chief had sent his son for him, to assist in 
 a sacrifice, which was about to be made by the whole tribe, 
 for one of his daughters who was ill. It was a Sunday evening 
 when the chief's son arrived, and found the poor boy removed 
 to the ' Home.' He came, and was present very attentively at 
 our service, and afterwards the chief came himself. There 
 are seven men of the same tribe as Kumgani, who have come 
 to Mr. E. on the Mission ground, and have gone home to 
 visit their tribe, and again returned to him. Kumgani has 
 now invited his parents to come." 
 
 Mrs. Woodrow adds in her P.S. — " I have applications to 
 receive twice as many orphan children as I now have." 
 
 Mr. Eobertson writes on Sept. 1, as follows: — "Some time 
 ago, I saw two of uJojo's men in town. .uJojo is chief of the 
 tribe amaXesibini, lying between Faku and the Umzimkulu. 
 He is rather a powerful chief, numbering about 800 men. 
 When the Bishop of Capetown passed through that way, 
 about four years ago, he promised to send a Missionary, to 
 stay with him and teach his people. The men said that ' they 
 had been looking for him all this while, but he had never 
 appeared;' and they told me that they were still very de- 
 sirous to have one. I made a very formal afiair of it — got 
 out my book, and wrote down all that they had to say, telling 
 them that 'I would write and tell you all about it, and ask you 
 to send them a Missionary.' I must not omit to say that 
 these two men, having heard of Mrs. Woodrow's Scripture 
 Pictures, went and spent nearly a whole night in examining 
 them, and having them explained by Boy, Mrs. "Woodrow's 
 Kafir man-servant, who came to his mistress's room for them 
 about 11 o'clock at night, begging that he might have them 
 to show to these strangers." 
 
 On Nov. 9, Mr. Eobertson writes : — " I am thankful to 
 say, that at last God has been pleased to bless our labours 
 among the poor heathen with (I trust the true) conversion of 
 two persons. Mrs. AVoodrow, I believe, mentioned about 
 Kumgani in one of her letters. He is going on steadily, 
 increasing daily in knowledge, and, I hope, also in the fear 
 
 9
 
 of the Lord. He is extremely anxious to be able to read and 
 ■write; and, considering the short time that I am able to 
 devote to him, it is astonishing that he should learn so much. 
 He is not baptized yet. I am teaching him to look forward 
 to that, as an act requiring much preparation and prayer. 
 
 " The other case is that of an old man, named Boy, (not 
 ilrs. Woodrow's Boy,) who has been but an irregular attendant 
 on our meetings, in consequence of his having to serve in 
 town. But, whenever he did come, he was always most atten- 
 tive. He was present at both meetings on Sunday last ; and 
 on Monday morning he sought a private interview with me, 
 making inquiries after me at ]\Ir. Green's, as early as six 
 o'clock in the morning. He had but little to say. But he 
 told me that ' he had long been much afraid lest he should 
 die and be lost ; but he rejoiced much to think that God 
 loves the sinner, and that Christ had died for \iixa— that he 
 was Christ's : and, in consequence of what he had heard the 
 day before, (when I had been explaining the parable of the 
 barren fig-tree.) he was afraid to remain any longer from 
 Him.' I talked to him a long time, and appointed to see 
 him again. I saw him last night, and again had fresh cause 
 for rejoicing. I never in my life saw any one more earnest ; 
 and, as far as it is right to judge a fellow-creature, I think, 
 there can be no doubt about his sincerity. He has cut off his 
 isigcoco, (ring of hair upon his head, worn by married hea- 
 thens), and dressed himself like a Christian. 
 
 " The meetings in town are becoming more and more 
 interesting. Hitherto, it has been rather up-hill work, the 
 numbers varying much; but now they are very regular. I 
 had thought at one time of giving them up altogether, and 
 confining myself entirely to the Mission Station. But Jlrs. 
 "Woodrow remonstrated so strongly against it, that I was glad 
 to say nothing more about it. 
 
 " I am grieved to report that Mrs. Woodrow is still very 
 weak, and confined to her bed. I think every one wishes the 
 Bishop were here, to order her to work less. I am quite 
 sure, that, if she had less to think of, she would soon get 
 ■well. But she will have everything exactly right, and it is 
 too much for one so weakly." 
 
 Happily, long before this, it may be hoped that Dr. and 
 Mrs. Callaway have reached the Colony, and taken part in 
 her labours.
 
 The following sums have been already contributed towards 
 the objects of this Appeal, and arc hereby thankfully acknow- 
 ledged : — 
 
 DONATIONS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 5 
 10 10 
 
 5 5 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 50 
 
 500 
 
 F. Peel, Esq. m.p 50 
 
 Jliss Hunt, Sunningdale 10 
 
 Rev. R. Dalby 5 
 
 R. Vt'illiams, Esq. Dorchester 10 
 
 Rev. J. Bower, Lostwithiel... 5 
 E. F. a Lady, Exchequer Bills 
 
 and Interest 1041 10 
 
 Rev. Dr. Vaughan, Harrow... 10 
 
 Rev. J. W. Cunningham 5 
 
 H. Young, Esq. and Family.. 5 
 
 Harrow Boys 22 17 
 
 Consecration Off. (moiety) ... 130 IS 
 
 Miss F. Macaulay 5 
 
 Rev. W. N. Griffin 10 5 
 
 Rev. R. Lawson 5 
 
 Anon, bv Rev. Em. Hawkins 25 
 
 Rev. F. W. Baker 5 
 
 Hon. IMrs. Upcher and Friends 50 
 
 Miss Anna Gurncy 5 
 
 Mrs. Fyvie, Inverness 5 
 
 Radley College 7 
 
 Thos. Wilson, Esq. S. P. G.... 
 Rev. E. P. Cooper, S. P. G.... 
 W. Earle, Esq. Camberwell... 
 Mrs. Earle 
 
 Ditto 2d don. 
 
 Rev. W. M. H. Church 
 
 Rev.Thos.Bowdler,Bronipton 
 
 Rev. X. V 
 
 James Baiss, Esq.Caniberwell 
 Wm. Powell, Esq. Notting-hill 
 Rev. Canon Anson, Windsor. 
 
 Rev. F. S. Bevan 50 
 
 A Lady. E. F 2rf don. 350 
 
 SlrThos.Fowell Buxton, Bt.,a 
 
 Gift.in memory of, valued at fi 
 
 Miss Brodrick, Oxford 5 
 
 H. S. Thornton, Esq 20 
 
 Anonymous, P. through S.P.G. 10 
 
 JonathanBarrett, Esq. Croydon 5 
 
 "Wm. Pearson, Esq. Hull. the late 5 
 
 C. Hanbury, Esq. and Family 5 
 
 Rev. E. Venables, Bonchurcli 5 
 
 James Cropper, Esq. Kendal. 5 
 
 MissScott, Bonchurcli, coll. by 5 
 
 Miss C. Naish, Bath, coll. by 5 
 
 Rev.J. W.Cunningham, Harrow 5 
 
 Mrs. Foster, Lostwithiel 5 
 
 Rev. Dr. Tatham 5 5 
 
 MissGurney.Northrepps, Cromer 5 
 
 R.A.Gray,Esq.Camberwell-ter. 10 10 
 
 Huson Morris, P2sq. Peckliam. 20 
 
 A Ladv's Gold Cliain, valued at 5 5 
 
 Miss Wilson, Ely Grange ... 25 
 
 Mrs. Mitchell and Family ... 5 5 
 
 A. Greenslarie, Esq 5 5 
 
 Miss Brodrick 5 
 
 Miss Sheriffe, Southwold 10 
 
 The Lord Berners 40 
 
 W. P. Herricke, Esq 5 
 
 Miss Herricke 5 
 
 10 10 
 10 10 
 5 
 
 
 
 £, .0. d. 
 
 Mrs. Liiley, sen. Peckham.... 5 5 
 
 Miss Gurney, Northrepps 10 
 
 Dowager Lady Buxton, and 
 
 Charles Buxton, Esq 100 
 
 D.Powell, Esq. St.Helen'sPlace 5 
 
 J. T. Mott, Esq 10 
 
 ;\Irs. Fry, Leicester, coll. by .. 27 11 
 
 Rev.M.F.F.Osborn,Kibworth 5 
 
 Rev.R.W.Fitzpatrick,Bedford 5 
 
 Talbot Barnard,' Esq 10 
 
 Mrs. Stirling, Linlathen 10 
 
 A Lady, Bedford 5 
 
 Miss Polhill, Bedford 5 
 
 Miss Tanqueray, Bedford 5 
 
 Miss Mary Green, Bedford.... 5 
 
 Rev. Charles Ward, Maldon., 10 ft 
 
 Mrs. Ward 10 
 
 Rev. Canon Rogers, Exeter... 5 
 
 SirThos.DykeAcland,Bt.M.P. 10 
 
 Major Godfrey, Exeter 5 
 
 Rev. G. S. Le Maistre, Jersey 5 
 
 Friend, byJ.H.Markland, Esq. 50 
 
 W. Cosens, Esq. Langdon 5 
 
 Rev. Lord John Thvnne 25 
 
 The Duke of Bedford 100 
 
 Rev. F. J. Smith, Taunton... 5 
 
 C. Kohler, Esq. Winkfield 5 
 
 H. Farre, Esq. Friends by 20 
 
 C. J. Bunyon, Esq 10 
 
 Rev. George Ray, Statherne. 10 
 
 Mrs. Fyvie, Inverness 5 
 
 Rev. F. G. Burnaby 5 
 
 Rev. J. N. Simpkinson 5 
 
 Harrow Boys, by ditto 4 12 G 
 
 Rev. F. Dyson 5 
 
 Rev. W. Dalton 5 
 
 Rev. W. H. Vale 5 
 
 Mrs. R. Ware, Hornsey 10 10 
 
 j\Irs. Erskine, Bryanstone-sq. 6-0 
 
 Rev. E. Brumell, Holt 5 5 
 
 Rev.Vi^.O. Newnham, coll. by GOO 
 
 Mrs. Parry, Godstone 5 
 
 Rev. C. Dyson and Friends... 10 {> 
 
 Rev. G. Currey 5 
 
 Misses Windle, Brighton 5 
 
 Ampthill Parish 8 3 6 
 
 Rev. J. H. Stephenson 5 
 
 Miss Nicholson, Dorking 5 
 
 W. Gibbs, Esq 50 
 
 R. S. Blaine, Esq 5 
 
 Mrs. and Miss Blaine 5 O 
 
 Sir W. R. Farquhar, Bart 10 
 
 Lady Mary Farquhar 5 
 
 Mrs. Wilson, Sackville-street. 5 n 
 
 Silsoe Parish 18 3 2 
 
 Rev. B.Edwards, A.shill 75 
 
 Thomas Grueber, Esq 5 
 
 Mrs. Mayers, Brighton 5 
 
 Rev. A. B. Congleton 8 
 
 Rev. T. G. and Mrs. Curtler.. 5 
 
 W. Newnham, Esq. Farnham 10 10 
 11
 
 £ 
 
 J. M. Paine, Esq. Farnham... 10 
 
 Ven. Archdeacon Benlinck ... 100 
 
 Mrs. Bentinck 100 
 
 Miss Mary Morse 10 
 
 Miss H. Morse 10 
 
 J. Sniijth Windham, Esq 5 
 
 Rev. G. Gordon, Muston 10 
 
 Rev. G. E. Gillett, Waltham. .5 
 
 AVm. IJalleny, Esq. Liverpool 10 
 
 C. Groves, Esq. Liverpool 10 
 
 A. Castellain, Esq. Liverpool. 10 
 
 Mrs. W. Lonjiley r> 
 
 W. Efierton, Esq. Knutsford.. 10 
 
 John Wilson, Esq. Congleton. 5 
 
 Joseph Martin, Esq 5 
 
 Lady Inglis j 
 
 John Torr, Esq. Liverpool .... 10 
 
 T. H. Holderness, Esq 5 
 
 Messrs. Lamport & Holt 25 
 
 Mrs. McGillivray 10 
 
 Rev. G. A. Whitaker 5 
 
 R. Hichens, Esq 20 
 
 Miss H. Swann 8 
 
 Capt. Sanders, R.N 5 
 
 John Clouter, Esq. (the late). 5 
 
 E. St. Aubyn, Esq .5 
 
 ]\[rs. Rodd, Launceston 5 
 
 Miss Stephens, Teignmouth .. 5 
 
 Rev. Canon Rogers ...2d don. 5 
 
 G. H. Strutt, Esq. Helper 5 
 
 Stamford St. Mary, Parishrs.of 5 
 
 The Earl of Carlisle 20 
 
 Miss C. Holbeck 5 
 
 Framland 10 
 
 A Friend (S. P. G.) 50 
 
 Mrs. Nelson 5 
 
 T>. Gurney, Esq. Runcton 10 
 
 John Marsters, Esq. Lynn.... 5 
 
 Hon. Mrs. F. Calthorpe 5 
 
 A Friend, Hayes 10 
 
 Misses M. and J. Traill 10 
 
 Sir G. Prendergast, K.C.B.... 5 
 
 Mrs. Todd 5 
 
 Rev. H. V. Elliott, Brighton . 5 
 
 lady Cosway, West Cowes.... 5 
 
 Mrs. F. Pearson 12 
 
 Mrs. Pendarves 5 
 
 Ambleside, Friends at 10 
 
 Mrs. S. G. Jermyn 5 
 
 W. Stone, Esq. Duhvich 5 
 
 A Lady, by Drummonds 10 
 
 St. Augustine's Coll. Off. 5 
 
 Rev. H. Bailey 5 
 
 Ven. Arclid. Burney 5 
 
 Misses Cornell 5 
 
 J. F. Bullock, Esq 10 
 
 Misses Wilson, Ely Grange, 
 
 Frant, collected by 30 
 
 Ven. Archd. Harrison 20 
 
 Rev. Philip Ray and Family.. 5 
 
 Capel Cure, Esq. Blake Hall. 5 
 MissTrevelyan.NettlecombeCt. 10 
 
 Miss Atherton, Manchester... 30 
 
 Thos.Bazley, Esq. Manchester 5 
 
 T. S. Bazley, Esq 5 
 
 Miss Champernowne 5 
 
 Miss C. D. Earle, coll. by 16 
 
 12 
 
 «. 
 
 d. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 — Wilson, Esq. Quay, Waterford 5 
 
 Mrs. Alice Black 5 
 
 Rev. J. Burrell Hayley 5 
 
 BevisE.Green, Esq. Kensington 10 
 
 Rev. C.T.Frampton& Family 12 
 
 W. B. Jones, Esq 20 
 
 Winchester 7 
 
 Joseph Roberts, Esq. Truro... 5 
 
 Miss Harriss, Reading 5 
 
 E. W. Cooke, Esq. Kensington 5 
 Hon. and Very Rev. the Dean 
 
 of Norwich 10 
 
 Rev.J.LeeWarner,Walsinghara 5 
 
 Rev. F. D. Maurice 10 
 
 Mrs. Montgomerie, St. Leonard's 5 
 
 Rev. D. Capper, Huntley 5 
 
 Dow. Countess of Abingdon... 5 
 
 Mrs. Cattel.Peterboro', coll. by 22 
 
 Rev. J. Salter, Iron Acton ... 5 
 
 Rev. R. B. Mayor, Rugby ... 10 
 
 Miss Roper, Montegate, York 5 
 
 Rev. J. Thomas. Addington... 10 
 
 Mrs. J. J. Nicholson 5 
 
 Mrs. Harrison, Clapham 5 
 
 J. P. Gassiot, Esq 5 
 
 J.S. Harford, Esq 5 
 
 Rev. E. Parker, coll. by 15 
 
 Mrs. Archer Houblon 5 
 
 Miss Archer Houblon 5 
 
 P. Cazenove, Esq 10 
 
 James Chance, Esq 5 
 
 T. P. Stone. Esq. Heme Hill. 10 
 
 Rev. John LeMesurier 10 
 
 Friend, by ditto 10 
 
 Wm. McConnel, Esq .'; 
 
 C. W. Puller, Esq 10 
 
 Hon. C. H. Cust 5 
 
 W. De Capel Brooke, Esq. ... 10 
 
 Wm. Angerstein, Esq 5 
 
 Rev. Cave Humfrey 5 
 
 Mrs. G. Wartnaby 5 
 
 Miss Arnold 5 
 
 Rev. Thos. Yard 10 
 
 Barnstaple, S. P. G 5 
 
 Southampton, S. P. G 5 
 
 M. T., S. P. G 5 
 
 Winchester, S. P. G 8 
 
 A. N. by Rev. W. B. Hayne . 5 
 
 Miss Chilcott. Truro, coll. liy. 6 
 
 C. Baring Y'oung, Esq 50 
 
 Misses Grasett, Brighton 5 
 
 Rev. W. H. Bateson 10 
 
 M. Bloome, Esq. Aberfora .... 5 
 
 Mrs. Gipps 5 
 
 Rev. J. Grote 5 
 
 Rev. H. W. Sheppard 5 
 
 Rev. C. Morgell 5 
 
 Rev. Dr. Guest, Caius Coll. 
 
 Canib. V. C 20 
 
 Rev. F. France, St. John's ... 10 
 
 W. Hopkins, Esq 10 
 
 Rev. W. C. Mathison 10 
 
 Miss Raymond, Cambridge ... 5 
 
 Rev. G. F. Reyner 10 
 
 S. H 10 
 
 Rev. W. C. Sharpe 5 
 
 Rev. Dr. Tatham, St. John's. 10 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 fi 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 £ s. d. I 
 
 S Rev. T. Hedley 
 
 5 Rev. F. Martin 
 
 Rev. .T. Thrupp 
 Miss M. Arthur 
 
 Rev. Thos. Dowell 7 M. Todliunter, Esq. 
 
 The Earl of Belmoie 5 a 
 
 R. H. Sawyer, Esq 5 
 
 Harrow Weald Parish (MO 
 
 Rev. R. Middleniist 10 
 
 J. C. Adams, Esq 5 
 
 £ I. d. 
 
 5 
 
 
 Rev. Prof. Blunt 10 
 
 Rev. E. M. Cope 5 
 
 Rev. T. Field 
 
 J. F. Winterbottom, Esq 10 
 
 Rliss Bailey .'j 
 
 Rev. Dr. Wordsworth 2:') 
 
 Mrs. Barter, coll. by 27 1 
 
 Miss E. Barter, coll. by 18 1 
 
 Peterborough, by Rev. 1". C. 
 
 Claushton 10 
 
 5 5 0, Sums under 5/ 437 12 11 
 
 ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTIONS, FOR FIVE YEARS. 
 
 E=< 
 
 Rev. Dr. Vaughan, Harrow... 
 Rev. W. Oxenliam, Harrow... 
 G. F. Harris, Esq. Harrow ... 
 Rev. B. H. Drury, Harrow ... 
 Rev. R. Middlemist, Harrow. 
 M. Gustave Masson, Harrow. 
 Rev.J.N.Sinipkinson,Harrow 
 Thos. Hewlett, Esq. Harrow.. 
 Mrs. Orford Holte, Harrow .. 
 H. R. Young, Esq. Harrow... 
 
 ,E. H. Vaughan, Esq.Har. 
 
 Rev. B. F. Westcott, Hnr. 
 
 Rev. E. H. Bradley, Har. 
 
 G. C. Swayne, Esq. Har. 
 
 Rev. F. Kendall, Harrow 
 
 C.F.Holmes, Esq. Harrow 
 S 1 GustaveRuault, Esq.Har. 
 I < J. F. Marillier, Esq. Har. 
 
 Rev. T.H. Steel, Harrow. 
 
 A. Lang, Esq. Harrow ... 
 
 T. Wood, Esq. Harrow ... 
 
 A. Maclean, Esq. Harrow 
 
 Mrs. Mayo, Harrow 
 
 Jfrs. Heathfield. Harrow. 
 'Mrs. Annesley, Harrow... 
 
 Miss Codd, Kensington 
 
 Rev. and Mrs. E. Pluniptre.. 
 
 Miss F. Smith, Bayswater 
 
 Rev. Dr. Harris, Torquay .... 
 The Misses Fanshawe, Torquay 
 Rev. W.Ward Jackson, Torquay 
 Rev. J. R. Hogg, Bri.xhani... 
 
 Miss Palmer, Notting-hill 
 
 Rev. J. H. Mooie, Aberford.. 
 — Heitland, Esq. Fakenham. 
 Rev. H. Kitton, Fakenham... 
 
 Rev. A. B. Hemsworth 
 
 R. N. Hamond, Esq. Fakenham 
 R. Campbell, Esq. Fakenham 
 
 Dr. Rudge, Fakenham 
 
 Rev. C. St. Denys Moxon 
 
 Mrs. Pearson, Hull 
 
 Ven. Archdeacon Bouverie ... 
 Thos. Owles, Esq. Bungay.... 
 
 iMrs. Hearne, Banipton 
 
 Miss Crosse, Shipmeadow 
 
 Rev. E. A. Holmes 
 
 The Misses Allsopp 
 
 J. D 
 
 Rev.M. Maurice, Notling Hill 
 
 Miss Maurice 
 
 C. K. (2s. 6(/. quarterly) 
 
 Rev. M. F. F.Osborn, Kibworlh 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hon. and Rev. A. G. Campbell 
 
 Rev. G. Maule, Ampthill 
 
 Rev. Dr. Koord-Bowes 
 
 Major Godfrey, Exeter 
 
 W. Cosens, Esq. Dawlisli 
 
 Mrs. Furze. Kenton Dawlish. 
 
 Miss Marshall, Kenton 
 
 Miss Coryton, Dawlish 
 
 Miss Bloomtield, Dawlish 
 
 Rev. T. R. Birks, Kelshall ... 
 
 Rev. A. Huxtable 
 
 Mrs. Huxtable 
 
 Miss Buck, Preston 
 
 G. S. Fox. Esq. Wellington... 
 
 Syl. Fox, Esq 
 
 Samuel Dobree, Esq 
 
 Rev. T. W. Burridge 
 
 Messrs. H. and W. H. Savorv. 
 Rt. Hon. Sir R. H. Inglis ...".. 
 Miss F. Nicholson, Rugby ... 
 
 Ven. Archdeacon Hare 
 
 Mrs. Hare 
 
 Miss Peniberton, Winiiington. 
 
 Miss Munnings, Malvern 
 
 Miss Jackson, Malvern 
 
 Rev. Dr. F. Hessey 
 
 Mr. R. Brown, Bungay 
 
 Miss S. Spall, Bungay 
 
 Rev. J. E. Cooper 
 
 Miss Erskine, Montagu-sq. ... 
 Mr. and Mrs. Best, Eastbury. 
 
 John Hales, Esq. Holt 
 
 Miss Powell, Sheringham 
 
 Mr. Wiseman, Stokeferry 
 
 Mrs. Lilley, Peckham 
 
 Rev. J. and Mrs. Browell 
 
 H. V. Tebbs, Esq 
 
 R. S. Blaine, E;q 
 
 Jlrs. Bolland 
 
 Miss AVright 
 
 H.M. Usill, Esq. AVisheach... 
 T. S. Watson, Esq. Wisbeach 
 
 Rev. Jer. Jackson 
 
 Rev. T. P. Holmes 
 
 F. Fawsett, Esq 
 
 West Walton, St.Paul'sAssoc. 
 
 Mrs. Henrj' Leach 
 
 F. M. Metralle, Esq 
 
 Rev. G. Thompson 
 
 F. Montgomerie, Esq 
 
 Mrs. Montgomerie 
 
 Miss Butler .' 
 
 Miss — Butler 
 
 13 
 
 .'-) 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 (1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 (1 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 1 (I 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 10 
 
 2 2 
 2 
 8 
 2 2 
 2 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 4 4 
 
 SO 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 I 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 5
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 W. Young, Esq 1 
 
 Miss Howard 10 
 
 Jlev. Buirell Hayley 1 1 
 
 Thos. Grueber. Esq 1 1 
 
 Miss Day, Olney 1 
 
 Rev. H. T. Kenney 1 1 
 
 M. Shepheard, Esq 1 
 
 Mrs. G. Wilkinson 10 
 
 Kev. James and Mrs. Murray. 10 
 
 Misses Grasett, Brighton 5 
 
 Rev. T. A. Curtler 3 
 
 Mrs. Mary Wilcock 10 
 
 Rev. A.Taylor 10 
 
 W. Newnham, Esq 1 1 
 
 Mrs. Newnham 110 
 
 Rev. J. H. Carter 10 
 
 R. Denison, Esq 2 
 
 Rev. F. O. Morris 10 
 
 Rev. F. J. Gruggen 10 
 
 C. S. Grubbe, Esq 1 1 
 
 ■\Villiam Balleny, Esq 5 
 
 Miss Holland 10 
 
 Miss Watson 1 1 
 
 Rev. O. Crewe 1 
 
 Rev. J. P. Firmin 1 
 
 Rev. J. Oakden 1 1 
 
 Miss Burnett Stuart 1 
 
 Rev. T. B. Stuart 10 
 
 Miss Stuart 10 
 
 J. Christie, Esq 2 
 
 Misses Molyneux 10 
 
 Messrs. Lamport & Holt 10 
 
 Miss Reeve 7 
 
 Hon. and Rev. J. H. Nelson.. 1 
 
 Rev. A. Pearson 110 
 
 Rev. James Hutcliinson 110 
 
 Rev. J. Wetherall 1 
 
 Rev. C. Venn 1 
 
 Rev. G. Staliord 1 
 
 Rev. W. M. H. Church 2 
 
 Mr. Eldred 10 
 
 Mrs. Pownall, Netting Hill.... 1 1 
 
 Mrs. John Swann 2 
 
 Miss H. Swann 1 
 
 Mrs. Siblv 1 
 
 Mr. R. Evans 5 
 
 J. St. Aubyn, Esq 1 
 
 Rev. T. N. Grigg 1 
 
 J. Parkyn, Esq 10 
 
 Mons. DeLarue 10 
 
 F. Arnold, Esq 10 
 
 X. Tripe, Esq 10 
 
 Rev. Canon Rogers 10 
 
 Mrs. Rogers 1 
 
 Miss Rogers 110 
 
 Rev. S. Rogers 10 
 
 Rev. H. Grylls 1 1 
 
 ^Frear, Esq 10 
 
 Rev. W. F. Wilkinson 1 
 
 Misses Carr 10 
 
 Misses Sawyer 1 10 
 
 Servants of M. Sharman, Eso. 10 
 
 Mrs. Nelson '.. 2 
 
 F. Cresswell, Esq 10 
 
 D. Gurney, Esq 10 
 
 Mrs. Ives 5 
 
 C. N. Kolfe, Esq I 
 
 14 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 W. A. Soames, Esq 10 
 
 Mrs. Mann 5 
 
 F. Hicks, Esq 10 
 
 Misses White 10 
 
 R. E. Knowling, Esq 110 
 
 Rev. G. Knowling 110 
 
 E.Ramsey, Esq 1 
 
 Miss Ramsey 5 
 
 Miss Dykes 1 
 
 Rev. G. B. Boraston 1 1 
 
 Mrs. Popham 10 
 
 Mrs. Envs 1 
 
 Rev. C.Mann 1 1 
 
 Rev. G. Mann 1 1 
 
 W. M. Tweedy, Esq 2 
 
 MissMozley 10 
 
 Mrs. Swettenliam 10 
 
 J. W. Brooke, Esq 5 
 
 Miss Chamier 1 
 
 Mrs. Clarke 5 
 
 J. Marsters, Esq 1 
 
 Rev. R. Pearce 1 
 
 Miss H. Blencowe 5 
 
 School-children, by ditto 10 
 
 Rev. J. Fleming lu 
 
 Schoolchildren, by ditto 5 
 
 F. Sharrington, Esq 10 
 
 Rev. G.Wagner 1 1 
 
 Miss Macaulay 1 
 
 Miss F. Macaulay 2 
 
 Mrs. Mann 110 
 
 Ambleside, Friends at 1 10 
 
 Miss Ransford, York 10 6 
 
 SirC. E. Trevelyan, K.C.B.... 10 
 
 Miss E. Gore 1 
 
 Miss Padwick 1 1 
 
 H. Mann, Esq 1 1 
 
 Miss Townsend 10 
 
 Rev. J. Papillon 10 
 
 Mr. Applelord 10 
 
 Mrs. Dampier 5 
 
 Lady Darling 10 
 
 Mrs. Potter, Witnesham 2 
 
 Mrs. Lonse, Coddenham 2 
 
 Rev. D. Fraser 10 
 
 G. Sperling, Esq 10 
 
 Rev. W. J. D. Ashen I 1 
 
 Miss E. Pattisson 1 
 
 Mrs. Maddv, Messing 1 
 
 Misses Maddv 10 
 
 Rev. W. Curtler 1 
 
 Rev. P. W. Ray - 1 1 
 
 James Oldham, Esq 1 
 
 Mrs. Borton 10 
 
 Rev. W. B. Hopkins, Wisbech 3 
 
 Edw. Jackson, Esq. Wisbech. 10 
 
 Mrs. John Leach, Wisbech.... 10 
 
 Rev. H. D. Blanchard 5 
 
 Mrs. Bickerdike 5 
 
 Rev. W. P. Chapell 2 6 
 
 Madame Artault 1 
 
 W. W. Luard, Esq 10 
 
 Mrs. Bodley I 
 
 Miss Marriott 1 
 
 Misses M. and A. Wilson 10 
 
 Thos. Bazley, Esq 1 1 
 
 T. S. Bazlev, Esq 1 1
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 Dr. W. BuUar, Southampton. 5 
 
 Sir W. Norris, Brighton 2 2 
 
 Mrs. Tavlor, Notting; Hill .... 110 
 
 Kev. X>. Trinder, Oxford 2 2 
 
 Ilev. R. Prichard, Newbold... 1 1 
 
 Miss Harris, Reading 1 
 
 Rev. R. B. Mayor 1 1 
 
 Miss Cooner. Kentish-town... 2 
 
 Rev. F. i>. Maurice 5 5 
 
 Rev W.H.Parker,Saham Toney 110 
 
 Mrs. Cattel, Peterborough 1 1 o 
 
 Rev. H. II. Methuen 1 (I 
 
 Ellen Shawe, a Servant 1 
 
 "W.Everington.Esq.HenieHill 2 2 
 
 Miss Wedgewood, Tenbv 1 
 
 Rev. F. H. and Mrs. Murray. 5 
 
 Mrs. H. Smith, Camber-nell... 10 (i 
 
 E. T. for a Zulu child 5 
 
 E. B. and E. E. B. Westwod. 12 6 
 
 Thos. Erskine, Esq 2 
 
 John Duncan, Esq 10 
 
 Miss Alice Mackenzie 5 
 
 George Thomson, Esq 2 2 
 
 Mrs. Thomson 2 2 
 
 Miss Sparkes 10 
 
 Ven. Archd. Harper 2 2 
 
 F. C. T. Gaseoigne, Esq 3 
 
 Rev. Dr. Carter, Aberlord .... 10 
 
 Mrs. R. Atkinson 10 
 
 Mrs. Markham 5 
 
 Mr. Wiiks 2 
 
 Rev. J. Turner 1 1 
 
 Rev. Conway Joyce 10 
 
 Mrs. R. Mountain 5 
 
 Miss Granville 10 
 
 Miss S. Granville 10 
 
 Miss E. Granville 10 
 
 MissForster 2 2 
 
 Mrs. R. Scriven 1 1 
 
 Miss Everett 5 
 
 Rev. W. N. Lucas 10 6 
 
 £s. d. 
 
 Miss Scriven 10 6 
 
 Miss Barehara 5 
 
 Mrs. Barrett 10 6 
 
 Mrs. Ccl. Fullarton 1 1 
 
 W. Hopkins, Esq 2 
 
 Dr. Paget, Caius Coll 1 
 
 A Priind, bv Mrs. W. Tavlor. 10 
 
 J. W.Turner, Esq 3 
 
 Mr. Matthews 5 
 
 Rev. T. Field, St. John's 2 2 
 
 Cvril C. Crahara, Esq. .., 5 
 
 R'ev. C. Hardwicke 1 1 
 
 Rev. S. G. Phear 1 1 <> 
 
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