■■H 
 
 J 
 
 >~^ 
 
 / , 
 
 J
 
 V.A..-^'V 
 
 ^■ 
 
 ^ C ^^<^<JC^^^^^^
 
 t / y 
 
 > > > ^ , , \
 
 J. I. SANDS, 
 FASHIONABLE TAILOR, 
 
 7, HOLBORN HILL, LONDON. 
 
 (Opposite FurnivaTs Inn.) 
 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. £ s. d. 
 
 Cambridge Coats, from... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 to 2 2 
 
 Dress Coats, from 
 
 ... ... .. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 to 2 15 
 
 Best West of England ... 
 
 ... ... 
 
 
 
 
 3 3 
 
 Frock Coats, from 
 
 ... .. 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 to 3 3 
 
 Best Manufactured 
 
 ... ... ... 
 
 
 
 
 3 10 
 
 Fancy and Angola Trowsers, 
 
 from 
 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 6 to 1 4 
 
 Black Trowsers 
 
 ... .. 
 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 upwards. 
 
 Best Black Dress ditto ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Rich Satin Vests, from... 
 
 ... ... .. 
 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 to 18 
 
 Extra Rich French ditto 
 
 ... ... .. 
 
 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 White Dress Vests, from 
 
 ... ... 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 6 to 10 6 
 
 Fancy Cashmere and MarceUa, from ... 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 to 14 
 
 The Paletot Frock, in every 
 
 variety of materia 
 
 1 (much 
 
 
 
 
 admired), from 
 
 
 
 ... 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 to 2 2 
 
 (To be worn as an under or over Coat). 
 
 
 
 
 
 MILITARY AND NAVAL UNIFORMS. 
 LADIES' RIDING HABITS, CAPES, ETC. 
 
 CHILDREN'S DRESSES, LIVERIES.
 
 "S. S. &'J. W. BENSON, 
 
 W^TOyiMiailCEIRSj, (&(Do5, 
 16, 63, & 43, CORNHILL, & 33, LUDGATE HILL. 
 
 BENSON'S EXACT WATCH. 
 
 £3 10s. 
 
 IN DOUBLE UACKED 
 SILVER CASES. 
 
 £9 fOs. 
 
 IN DOUBLE BACKED 
 GOLD CASES. 
 
 SS. & J. W. BEJVSON, after cunsiderahle attention to the Manufac- 
 • ture of Watches, have succeeded in prodiicirjg Levtr Watches tliat ciinnot be surpassed eitherin 
 price or performance. They are cappi d and jewelled, and are stronuly recommended to tradesmen, 
 artists, mechanics, and others, who require a lasting and serviceable article, and are warranted London 
 made. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S GOLD FLAT WATCHES.— BENSON'S HIGHLY-FINISHED £4 iSa. GOLD 
 HORIZONTAL WAI'GHES, made fiat for the wai;-tcoat pocket, with liard enamelled dials, sunk 
 seconds, jewelled in four holes, maintaining^ power to cotninuegoino^ while winding- up, with all the latest 
 impnivements. Also, they can be had in Huniin;? Cases, at an increase in price of two guineas. The 
 Horizontal Watch, so called from the escape wheel acting in the horizontal position, is a great improve- 
 ment upon the vertical, and is of English invention, and Is most suitable for flat watches, for which the 
 demand is very great; indeed, it is the favourite watch for tlie waistcoat pocket, and is equal to any for 
 style and beauty. Messrs. Benson have devoted particular attention to this watch, every one being- 
 carefully examined by their own workmen, and can thus confidently recommend them as sound and accu- 
 rate 'iniekeepprs. 
 
 BENSON'S HIGHLY-FINISHED SILVER HORIZONTAL WATCHES, £3 L5s. Jewelled in 
 f lur, six, and ei^ht holes, with all the latest improvements. Thise watches are made in four different 
 sizes, being i-uitable for ladies and gentleman, the above sketch repiesenting the smalle-it size. Ther 
 have beauti'ully engraved silver dials, the movemint is constructed with the balance-wheel lowered even 
 Vfith the iithtT wheels, for the purpose of rendering the watch flat, and are iu every resj-ect such as can 
 be leconimended. 
 
 BENSON'S PATENT DETACHED LEVER WATCHES, LONDON MADE, IN SILVER CASES.— 
 Messrs. Benson would call particular attention to the fact, that tqually the same attention is paid to the 
 finish and style of these watches as those in gold cases, being determined that nothing shall be wanting 
 on their part to maintain the reimtation th' y have so long enjoyed with the mechanic, the artiz in, and the 
 tradesman, in giving to them a silver wat' h without faitlt in its accurate perfurmance, and combining 
 every improvement, at the following very low prices : — 
 
 Patent detached Lever Watch, double-backed, pUin or engine-turned case; tlie movement 
 with the latest improveinents, i. e , the detached escapement, jewelled in two holes, 
 
 hard-enamelled dial, hand to mark the seconds, and maintiiining power £,?, 18 
 
 Ditto ditto jewelled in four holes and capped 4 14 6 
 
 Ditto ditto jewelled in six holes, with the improved regulator 5 15 
 
 Ditto ditto j-welled in four holes 6 18 6 
 
 Ditto ditto three-quarter plate, with compensation balance 7 18 
 
 Benson's patent detached silver watch, made flat for the waistcoat pocket, with the skele- 
 ton mo-vement, jewelled in ten holes 3 15 
 
 Fine vertical watches, in double-backed, engine-turned, or plain silver cases, with highly- 
 finished jewelled movements, hard enamelled dials 2 18 
 
 SECOND-HAND WATCHES. — A large number of second-hand silver watches at two guineas each; 
 they are of various sizes, mostly in modern engine-tuTued silver cases, and having been carefully ex- 
 annned, are warranted. Ditto of a superior class and jewelled, three guineas each. Ladies' second-hand 
 gold watches, with sound, well-flnished vertical movements, jewelled, at five guineas each, warranted. 
 
 Watches sent Carriage Free to any part of the Unilfd Kingdom upon receipt of a Post-office or Bankcr'i 
 
 Order,
 
 GEORGE SPILL'S 
 
 WATERPROOF 
 
 TO THE LORDS OF 
 
 IVIANUFACTORY 
 THE ADMIRALTY. 
 
 DEPOTS : 
 
 65 to 67, St. George-street, St. George's, East ; 
 
 95, High Holborn ; and 16, Smithfield-bars, London ; 
 
 54, St. James's-street, Liverpool ; 
 
 And 9, High-street, Bristol. 
 
 Orders from Ireland, Scotland, Wales, and the North of England, executed 
 
 at the Liverpool Branch. 
 
 Orders from the West of England and South Wales, at the Bristol Branch.
 
 CO 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 EH 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 l-H 
 P 
 
 H 
 
 O 
 
 w 
 
 > 
 pq 
 
 pq 
 
 "o .2 
 
 
 
 >-s 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 S 
 
 O ^ 
 
 c^ 5 
 
 o ?? .2 
 
 ^ to 
 
 
 .13 
 to r:i 
 
 s 
 
 
 o p^ p 
 
 o .t^ a 
 
 LJ 
 
 > 
 
 -1 
 
 o 
 
 > 
 
 LU 
 
 QC 
 
 h- 
 
 o 
 
 X 
 
 UJ 
 
 < 
 Q. 
 
 LU 
 
 z 
 
 UJ 
 
 &3 
 
 D 
 
 UJ 
 
 > S 
 
 a. ^^ 
 
 c3 
 
 
 <:! 
 
 ;^ 
 
 GO 
 
 pq 
 o 
 
 p^ 
 ;^ 
 
 Ph 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 "3 
 
 0) 
 0) 
 
 S3 
 43 
 
 o 
 
 ^4 
 
 o 
 
 i4^ 
 
 (0 
 
 Pi 
 (4 
 
 P^ 
 
 O 
 
 S3 
 O 
 
 • P4 
 
 S2< 
 
 ■ vH 
 
 u 
 o 
 
 M 
 
 & 
 
 Pi 
 
 CO 
 
 o 
 
 
 1-^ 
 -<: 
 
 5 
 
 xn 
 
 H-3 
 
 -=^ 
 
 UJ 
 
 > 
 
 o 
 
 H- 
 Z 
 
 UJ 
 
 E 
 Z 
 oc 
 
 Ui 
 
 > 
 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 UJ 
 
 QQ 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 O 
 
 Ui 
 
 H 
 Z 
 
 < 
 
 EC 
 
 q: 
 < 
 
 UJ 
 
 < 
 
 CO 
 
 o 
 O 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 ^-3 
 
 c3 
 CO 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 1-^
 
 ACHILLES INSURANCE COMPANY, 
 
 CAPITAL: £100,000, in 10,000 Shares of £10 each. 
 With power to increiise to One Million. 
 The advantag'es oflered by this Company will be seen on an investigation of 
 its Rates of Preminm, which are based upon the latest and most approved 
 corrected Tables of Mortality, and the terms of its Loan business. It offers 
 to tlie Assured the security of a larg-e subscribed Capital, combined with aU 
 the advantages of a Mutual Assurance Office — Eighty per Cent, of the Pro- 
 fits being divided amongst the Policy-holders every five years. 
 
 Policies are Indisputable. No Caarge is maie for Policy Stamps or Medical Fees. One- 
 Third of the Pramlums ou Aiiuraioaj of £500 is allowed to remain unpaid, and con- 
 tinue as a claim on the Policy. Policies not forfeiledif the Premiums are not paid 
 when due. Leans are granted to Policy-holders on libera', term?. For tl e convenience 
 of the Workii^ Classes, Policies are issued as low as £20, at the same Kates as larger 
 Assurances. 
 
 Annual Premium for the Assurance oy^lOO on the Whole of Life, with Profits. 
 
 Age 
 
 20 
 
 25 
 
 30 
 
 40 
 
 50 
 
 60 
 
 Premiums 
 
 /. s. d. 
 1 18 o 
 
 I. s. d. 
 2 2 6 
 
 I. s. d. 
 2 7 9 
 
 /. s. d. 
 3 3 2 
 
 I. s. d. 
 4 10 2 
 
 /. s. d. 
 6 18 5 
 
 Any other Particulars, or Rates of Premium required for any contingency, 
 can be obtained of the Agents of the Company, or at the Cliief Office, 25, 
 Cannon Street, or of the Secretary. 
 
 Hugh Brown Taplin, Secretary. 
 
 COLT^S~] PATENT REV OLV 
 
 After a Series of Trials at Woolwich, in competition with all others approved 
 of (and 7,500 ordered), by 
 
 HER MAJESTY'S HOMOURABLE BOARD OF ORDNANCE, 
 
 ALSO r. Y TilE MOST DISTINGUISHED 
 
 NAVAL AND MILITARY AUTHORITIES 
 
 Throughout the world as 
 
 The most Efiective and Serviceable Weapon extant, 
 
 CAN NOW BE HAD IN ANY QUANTITY. 
 
 The Prices vary according to the Size and Style of Finish of the Weapon. 
 
 A List of Prices furnished on application. 
 
 Ilolatcr or Cavalry Pistol, Rifle Barrel, Six Shots, Weight 41b. 2 oz., 32 conical, 48 
 
 round balls to" the lb. 
 Armv and Na^'y Pistol, for the Holster or Body Belt, Rifled 7i inch Barrel, Six Shots, 
 
 Weight 21b. 8oz., 84 round and 50 conical balls to the lb. 
 Six-inch Rifle Barrel, Belt or Pocket Revolver, Five Shots, Weight, 26oz., 126 round 
 
 and 84 conical to the lb. 
 Five -inch Rifle Barrel, Belt or Pocket Revolver, Five Shots, Weight 24 oz. 
 
 Four-inch Rifle Barrel, Belt or Pocket Pistol, Five Shots, Weight 23 oz. 
 .lapanned Leather Holster, Body Belt, and Bullet Pouch, for either size 21s. 
 The Cases contain a Jlould for the Conical or Round Ball, with Nipple Wrench, Caps 
 
 and Graduated Flask, with printed directions for loading and Cleaning 
 Order through any respectable Gundealer, or of the Patentee and Manufacturer ; a 
 
 Liberal Allowance to purchasers in quantities. 
 
 SAM. COLT, I, SPRING GARDENS, LONDON. 
 
 Beware of Counterfeits and Patent I nfrinrjemenis. Ecery Genuine London-made 
 Weapon is Marked on the Barrel "Address Col. Colt, LoisiiOiJ."
 
 DOMESTIC FLOUR MILLS 
 
 WITH DRESSING APPARATUS ATTACHED. 
 
 William Dray and Co., 
 
 MANUFACTUIIERS, SWAK LANE, UPPER THAMES STREET, 
 LONDON. 
 
 STEAM ENGINES, commended 
 by tlie Royal Agricultural Society. 
 Also the Prize Ste.ani Engines. The 
 steam is got up for exhibition in 
 operation every Monday, Wednes- 
 day, and Friday, at Wm. DRAY & 
 Co.'s Warehouses, Swan-lane, Up- 
 per Thames-street, City. 
 
 Strong and Durable FENCING 
 WIRE, One Penny per Yard, form- 
 ing an economical permanent fence, 
 of light and handsome appearance 
 Wm. dray & Co., IManufacturers, 
 Engineers, and Agricultural Imple- 
 ment Makers, Swan-lane, Upper 
 Thames Street, City. 
 
 REAPING MACHINES.— 
 Hussey's Prize Reapers,withPatent- 
 ed Improvements, which entirely 
 : prevent the possibility of choking. 
 Price £21.— Wm. DRAY & Co., 
 Engineers, &c.. Swan-lane, Upper 
 Thames Street, London. 
 
 CORN BRUSHING MA- 
 CHINES, from 50.S.— Roller Mills, 
 on Iron Frames, £4 4s. — Wm. 
 DRAY and Co., Engineers, Swan-lane, Upper Thames Street, London. 
 
 CARTS. — The Gloucester, Lewes, and Newcastle Prize Carts always in 
 Stock, at Wm. DRAY and Co.'s Warehouses, Swan Lane, Upper Thames 
 Street, London. 
 
 WHEELS AND AXLES.— The Wheels made of thoroughly well 
 seasoned Timber, and fitted up Machinery with the greatest accuracy. 
 These wheels are incomparably more durable than can be made by country 
 Wheelers. All sizes kept in Stock at Wm. DRAY & Co.'s Warehouse, 
 Swan-lane, Upper Thames Street, London. 
 
 LAWN MOWING MACHINES, with all the recent improvements, which 
 have rendered them really useful Implements. — Wm. Dray & Co.'s 
 Works and Warehouse, Swan Lane, Upper Thames Street, London. 
 
 SCYTHES. — Boyd's Patent Self-adjusting Scythes may be set to any angle 
 without the aid of a Blacksmitli. — Wm. DRAY & Co., Manufacturers, 
 Swan-lane, Upper Thames Street, London. 
 
 WM. DRAY & CO. are the London Agents for all the Important 
 Implement Manufacturers, and keep in stock all prize machines, and every 
 valuable Implement required by the Agriculturist. 
 
 Wm. DRAY & Co., Engineers, &c., Swan Lane 
 Upper Thames Street,
 
 DR. ARIMOTT'S 
 
 SMOKE CONSUMING STOVE. 
 
 D. & E. BAILEY, 
 
 IRONMONGERS, 
 272, HOLBORN, LONDON, 
 
 Be"' respectfully to invite the attention of the Public to the newly mvented 
 
 Arnott's Smoke Consuming Stove, 
 
 (As lectured upon by Dr. Aruott at the Society of Arts), adapted for every room 
 in the house. Also the 
 
 IMPROVED CIRCULAR 
 DR. ARNOTT'S VENTILATING VALVES 
 
 Suitable for Dwelling Houses, Offices, and Public Buildings; and their 
 
 COTTAGERS' STOVE, 
 
 A Cheap find Useful Cooking Apparatus, combining the advantages of an open 
 fire with oven and hot plate, requires no fixing, and is suitable for all classes. 
 
 D. & E. BAILEY especially invite the attention of the Public to their 
 
 OPEN FIRE KITCHEN RANGE, 
 
 ALSO THEIK 
 
 IMPROVED HOT PLATE AND BROILING STOVE, 
 
 With HOT CLOSET attached, STEAM CLOSETS, INDEPENDENT 
 OVENS, and STEWING STOVES, all of which have met with universal 
 success. 
 
 IT.B. CHURCHES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, CONSEEVATOKIES, and DWELLING 
 HOUSES heated by HOT WATER, on Dr. ARNOTTS principle. 
 
 A LARGE STOCK OP 
 
 FURNISHING IROMONGEEY 
 
 ALWAYS ON SHOW. 
 
 Catalogues and Prospect uses Gratis, on Application, 
 
 ESTIMAIES GIVEN AND DRAWINGS PREPARED.
 
 J. TYLOR AND SOIL'S 
 PATENT BATH APPARATUS. 
 
 To Fix a Bath, the Apparatus for Heating which can be fixed in the 
 same Room and the luxury of an open fire retained. 
 
 A. Patent Copper Boiler, sufficient to make a warm bath. A flue is carried all round 
 the draught regulated by a revolving damper B, which covers the opening into chimney. 
 When set, the boiler is entirely concealed from view, and can be adapted for any chim- 
 ney, by making it of an oval or elongated form. A soot door is fixed just underneath 
 damper, for convenience of cleaning, rarely required, on account of the great draught 
 round boiler preventing any deposit of soot. 
 
 C. An ordinary stove front with sliding blower for additional regulation of draft. 
 
 E. Copper or Tinned Iron Bath, enamelled white marble inside, having three copper 
 pipes for hot, cold, and waste water, indicated by engraved levers on the cocks. The 
 overflow is carried into was-te pipe, K. 
 
 F. Cistern for cold water, say 100 gallons, can be made of tinned iron, or any suitable 
 material, either fitted into a recess or made in a cylindrical shape to stand on the floor 
 of any room above the bath. The overflow can be carried into the waste or other 
 convenient outlet 
 
 G. Inch pipe from cistern to the pipe which goes to the bottom of boUer to fill it 
 with water. A branch from this pipe also supplies the bath with cold water. 
 
 H. Inch pipe from the top pipe of boiler, to deliver the hot water into bath. 
 
 I. Half-inch pipe taken from hot pipe H, and turned over top of cistern to relieve boiler. 
 
 WARWICK LANE, NEWGATE STREET, LONDON.
 
 CHARLES BROWN 
 CIGAR AND SNUFF IMPORTER, 
 
 37, COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLLN". 
 " ANGLING, 
 
 MARTIN KELLY AND SON, 
 
 FISHING TACKm MAKERS, 
 66, LOWER SACKVILT.E STREET, DUBLIN, 
 (Established Anno 1799.) 
 Beg to observe that upwards of Fifty Years' experience of the Flies, Rods, 
 &c., best suited to the different Lakes and Rivers in L'eland, enables them to 
 execute the orders of TOURISTS in such a manner as to prevent the possi- 
 bility of disappointment. 
 
 TO ANGLERS, &C. 
 
 JOHN FLINT, 
 
 WHOLESALE & MTMl FISHING TACKLE MANUFACTURER, 
 
 17, ESSEX QUAY, DUBLIN, 
 Respectfui-ly informs liis Customers, &c., that he has on hand the largest 
 and most varied 
 
 STOCK OF FISHING TACKLE, 
 
 Principally manufactured at liis Establishment, under his own inspection. 
 
 J. F. would particularly draw the attention of Gentlemen to his Green- 
 heart Salmon and Trout Rods, which he has introduced this Season, they 
 liaving been admitted to be the most perfect Rods ever used ; see testimonials 
 at his Establishment from the several gentlemen who have fished with them. 
 
 J. F. can recommend his Salmon and Trout Flies for the principal Lakes 
 and Rivers, having with great pains selected the several patterns from the 
 greatest Anglers in Ireland. See at his shop the Case of Flies, such as he 
 exhibited at the Great Exhibition. 
 
 Single Salmon Licences, 10s., to Fish throughout all Ireland, to he had at 
 this Establishment. Flies Tied for any jMrt of Europe or America. 
 ^gg° PLEASE OBSERVE 17, ESSEX QUAT, 
 
 JAMES FORREST km SO^S, 
 LIMERICK LACE WAREHOUSE, 
 
 100 and 101, GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN, 
 Have received their New Designs for the Present Season in Lace and Blond 
 Dresses, suitable for Court, Ball, and Bridal Costume; also, a great Variety of 
 White and Black Scarves, Squares, Mantles, Polkas, Veils, Berthes, Handker- 
 chiefs, Collars, and a few choice sets of Royal Irish Guipure Floimcing, made 
 at their Factory, Abbey Court, Limerick. 
 
 Strangers visitmg Dublin are especially invited to inspect these Fashionable 
 Articles, as they are well adapted for Presents, and much prized by Connoia-
 
 H 
 
 HH 
 
 rpq 
 
 00 
 
 O 
 
 Ph 
 O 
 
 Q 
 
 ► o 
 
 GO 
 
 ® ^ 
 
 za 
 
 W Cfl u 
 
 w-a « o s! w 
 
 m 
 
 2.2 
 
 «2 
 
 EH 
 < 
 
 Ph 
 
 60 
 
 •si ™ 
 9 o 
 
 Q 
 
 ^M 0) C^ g ^ 
 
 ta 
 o 
 
 O g »] 
 
 
 
 0) 0) (a 
 
 
 eg 
 T3 
 
 &9 
 
 0) > d 
 
 
 
 ^ III 
 
 
 
 P5 
 
 O Pw 
 
 CO 
 
 ^ 
 ^ 
 
 p^ 
 
 HH 
 
 H 
 H 
 
 GO W 
 
 H 
 
 02 
 
 ^ 
 < 
 
 
 ^H 
 
 CO 
 
 ^ o 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 H 
 <1 
 
 CO 
 
 O 
 
 HH 
 
 H 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 P^ 
 
 HH 
 
 H 
 <! 
 !25 
 
 p:? 
 O 
 
 p!H 
 
 Q 
 h:; 
 
 p^ 
 
 p^ 
 o 
 
 'Sow 
 « 
 
 0) 10 
 O M 
 
 ««.2 
 
 bSiO C 
 
 o 
 
 M 
 
 O 
 
 a 
 
 {no 
 
 g.S'S 
 
 eg O ci3 
 
 01 
 
 W H « 
 
 mQco
 
 Sm WILLIAM BURNETT'S PATENTS. 
 
 In the year 1838, Patents were granted to Sm William Burnett, M.D., 
 i\R.S.,K.C.H.,and K.C.B., Director-General of the Medical Depart- 
 ment OF the Royal Navy, for the use of CHLORIDE OF ZINC, as applied 
 to the Preservation of Timber, Canvas, Cordage, Cotton, Woollen, and other 
 articles, from Rot, Mildew, Moth, &c. ; and in 1852 Her Majesty was pleased 
 to grant an extension of Seven Years. Parties using Chloride of Zinc for any 
 such purposes must purchase the same from the Proprietors of Sir William 
 Burnett's Patents, at their Office, 18, Cannon Street, London Bridge; 
 and any person using it without license will be proceeded agamst for infringe- 
 ment of theu- Patents. 
 
 N.B, The Prize Medal of 1851 was awarded by the Royal Commissioners for Sir William 
 Burnett's Patents. 
 
 SIR WILLIAIVI BURNETTS DISINFECTING FLUID. 
 
 This Valuable Fluid has beei^ in general use for many years, with a success 
 and public benefit truly marvellous, for the Disinfection of Sick Rooms, Cloth- 
 ing, Linen, &c. ; the Prevention of Contagion; the Pmification of Bilge- water 
 and Ships' Holds, Cess-pools, Drains, Water-closets, Stables, Dog-kennels, &c. 
 
 Sold by all Chemists and Druggists, and at the Office, 18, Cannon Street, 
 London. 
 
 N.B. — Beware of a Spurious and Low Priced Imitation. 
 
 JACKSON'S PATENT PREPARATION 
 
 FOR THE preservation OF SEEDS, POTATOES, AND OTHER ROOTS. 
 
 This Valuable Discovery, for which Her Majesty's Royal Letters Patent 
 have been granted, is a certain Preventive of 
 
 THE POTATO DISEASE, 
 
 The Smut in Wheat, the attacks of Vermin, Mildew, Rot, and all Fungal 
 Diseases to which Seeds are subject. 
 
 Sold by the principal Seedsmen and Chemists in the United Kingdom, in 
 1 lb. packets at 2s. 6d., 2 lb. ditto at 4s. 6d., 3 lb. ditto at 6s. 6d., and 4 lb. 
 ditto at 8s. 6d. A large abatement on parcels of 7 lbs., 14 lbs., 28 lbs., and 
 50 lbs. ; and on greater quantities being taken. 
 
 For Particulars, apply personally or by paid letter to 
 
 MR. JACKSON, 18, CANNON STREET, LONDON BRIDGE.
 
 IMPORTANT NOTICE. 
 
 USEFUL AND PRACTICAL INTENTIONS, 
 
 IN THE 
 
 EKHIBZTION, SYDENHAM, 
 
 (South-west Gallery,) invented and patented by 
 
 JOSEPH BROWN, 71, LEADENHALL STREET, CITY. 
 
 NEWLY INVENTED BED, 
 
 To prevent Sea Sickness, which has saved a great many lives. 
 
 INDIA RUBBER SPRING BED, 
 
 Imperious to "Wet and Heat, which occupies less room and affords more com- 
 fort than any other bed, and is particularly adapted for the berths of Steam 
 Vessels and Yachts. 
 
 INDIA RUBBER SPRING CARRIAGE SEAT AND CHAIR, 
 
 A most luxurious article. 
 
 INDIA RUBBER SPRING BED FOR INVALIDS, 
 
 Superseding the use of the "Water Bed, and worthy of the notice of the Fa- 
 culty for Hospitals, &c. 
 
 PORTABLE CAMP SPRING BED, 
 
 Which requires no Mattress, Bolster, or Pillow ; a great saving and luxury 
 for the Army. 
 
 Orders should be forwarded to the Patentee's Manufactory, where may also 
 be obtained every article of Furniture, &c., "Wholesale and for Exportation. 
 
 Ships' Cabins fitted by Experienced "Workmen. 
 
 JOSEPH BROWN, 71, LEADENHALL STREET LONDON
 
 THE BILTON HOTEL, 
 
 SITTUATED IN THE BEST PART OP . 
 
 UPPER SACKVILLE STREET, 
 
 DUBLIN, 
 
 Has been recently considerably improved in Refurnishing, and in other ap- 
 pointments calculated to increase the Comfort and Convenience of its Guests, 
 a constant attention to please whom, combined with Moderate Charges, will, 
 it is trusted, insure a continuance of the distinguished patronage the Hotel 
 has so long pre-eminently enjoyed. The Proprietor, being extensively en- 
 gaged in the WINE TRADE, has peculiar advantages of obtaining a Variety 
 of the FINEST WINES, which are invariably selected for Hotel use. 
 
 LEWIS HEINE KEY, 
 
 PROPRIETOR. 
 
 A FIXED MODERATE CHARGE FOR SERVANTS. 
 
 WARM AND SHOWER BATHS IN THE HOUSE 
 
 LEWIS HEINEKEY, 
 WINE MERCHANT, DUBLIN, 
 
 LATE OF 
 
 HIGH HOLBORN, LONDON, 
 
 Has a variety of the Choicest "Wines, in Wood and Bottle, imported direct 
 from the most approved shippers in the several Wine countries. He has a 
 "Varied and Extensive supply of Ports. From his experience of the Wine 
 Trade in England, and his knowledge of the prices usually paid there for 
 Fine Old Wines, he is confident parties residing there would find it conducive 
 to their interest to favour him with a trial. 
 
 A Printed Catalogue of the Wines can be had or mil he forwarded hy 
 post on application. Quantities of Six Dozen will be forwarded (carriage 
 free) wherever there is direct steam communication.
 
 THE 
 
 aKESHAM HOTEL, 
 
 SACKVIIIE STREET, 
 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 The Nobility and Gentry are most respectfully informed that The Gbesham 
 continues to be replete with every comfort requisite for their accommodation. 
 
 THE 
 
 COFFEE EOOM, FOE GEOTLEMN, 
 
 IS EQUAL TO THAT OF A FIRST RATE CLUB HOUSE. 
 
 THE FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 Has a Distinct Entrance, &c., and is calculated to ensure all the Comforts of 
 a Private Residence. 
 
 THE SITUATION Md EXTENT OF THE ESTABLISmiENT 
 
 CONFER ON IT PECULIAR ADVANTAGES. 
 
 THE CHARGES CONTINUE UPON THE SAME 
 lYlODERATE SCALE 
 
 As that which has secured so kind a continuance of PvbliG 
 
 Patronage.
 
 MORISSON'S HOTEL, 
 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 THE NOBILITY AND GENTRY 
 
 ABE RESPECTFULLY INFORMED 
 
 THAT EVERY ARRANGEMENT HAS BEEN MADE 
 
 TO ENSURE THE 
 
 PERFECT COIVIFORT OF ALL VISITORS. 
 
 DUEmG THE 
 
 Recent Great Exhibition 
 
 A VERY CONSIDERABLE OUTLAY HAS BEEN MADE 
 
 XS THB 
 
 IMPROVING & ENLARGING THE RESOURCES OF THIS HOTEL. 
 
 THE CHARGES CONTINUE UPON THB 
 
 SAME MODEEATE SCALE 
 
 AS THAT WHICH HAS HITHERTO SECURED TO THE 
 PROPRIETOR SO 
 
 LARGE A SHARE OF THE PUBLIC PATRONAGE. 
 
 i
 
 •,@i^ 
 ^«.i# 
 
 EEYNOLDS' HOTEL, 
 
 11 & 12, UPPES SAGKVILLE STREET, 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 F. REYNOLDS 
 
 Begs respectfully to inform TOURISTS, unacquainted with Dublin, that his 
 Hotel is situated in the 
 
 BEST PART OF THE FINEST STREET II THE KIXGDOM, 
 
 and in the centre of all the Public Buildings and Railway Stations. His 
 
 SITTING ROOMS & COFFEE ROOMS BEING ALL FRONT, 
 
 combine to render his Hotel peculiarly adapted for the accommodation of 
 TOURISTS, whilst the charges continue on the same moderate scale that 
 has given so much satisfaction. 
 
 A MODERATE FIXED CHARGE FOK SERVANTS' ATTENDANCE. 
 
 N.B. Tourists who intend favouring this Establishment with their patron- 
 age are respectfully requested to insist on being taken to it, and not to rely 
 on any persons' information who may represent the Hotel as being full, as 
 F. R. regrets to say that he has been informed that some persons have been 
 tempted to give this false information, in order that they may convey visitors 
 to some other EstabUshments, where they receive a gratuity. 
 
 M.M. les Etrangers sont inform^ que cet Hotel est admirablcment situc 
 dans la plus belle rue de la ville, et dans le milieu des toutes les Chemins-de- 
 fer, b;c., &;c., et qu'ils y trouveront tout V attention j^ossible.
 
 ]ASTLE'S PRIVATE HOTEL, 
 47, KILDAEE STREET, 
 
 VITHIN FIVE MINUTES' WALK OF THE DUBLIN TERMINUS 
 OF THE KINGSTOWN RAILWAY, 
 
 DUBLIN, 
 
 OPPOSITE THE COLLEGE PARK, 
 
 AND ADJACENT TO 
 
 \fEEEION SQUARE AND STEPHEN'S GREEN. 
 
 CO 
 
 CO 
 
 ■ .SI 
 
 Visitors to DuMin will find in this Establishment every Comfort of a Private 
 •esidence, and the charges will be found exceedingly Moderate. 
 
 PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS. 
 
 iSr CASTLE, 47, KILDARE STREET, DUBLIN.
 
 THE SHELBOURNE HOTEL, 
 
 Stephen's Green, Comer of Kildare Street, 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 
 cc 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 O 
 
 w 
 
 H O 
 
 ^ S 
 
 c 
 
 H 
 
 M 
 
 ^ t?d 
 
 H 
 O 
 
 CO 
 
 CO 
 
 O 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 W 
 
 o 
 
 M 
 03 
 
 
 N^ 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 w 
 
 
 f^ 
 
 
 te* 
 
 
 Sd 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 w 
 
 
 c^ 
 
 K 
 
 NH 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ■<^ 
 
 t»- 
 
 1-4 
 
 O 
 
 ^ 
 
 H 
 
 e 
 
 5! 
 
 
 ft 
 
 es 
 
 54 
 
 w 
 
 H 
 
 c^ 
 
 TO 
 
 ^ 
 
 rl 
 
 
 H 
 
 c^ 
 
 l-N 
 
 CQ 
 
 nH 
 
 O 
 
 e=1 
 
 >^ 
 
 S»- 
 
 > 
 Tf 
 
 ^ 
 
 >■ 
 
 m 
 
 H 
 
 O 
 
 S 
 
 
 H 
 
 ►si 
 
 1^ 
 H 
 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
 ^ 
 
 > 
 
 
 H 
 
 >^ 
 
 > 
 
 f»- 
 
 » 
 
 S 
 
 O 
 
 r-H 
 
 
 e^ 
 
 
 ^-^ 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 c^ 
 
 O 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 cc 
 
 x^ 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 e^ 
 
 
 PA 
 
 
 i-N 
 
 
 c^ 
 
 
 •H 
 
 
 tjn 
 
 
 •• 
 
 
 A» 
 
 
 « 
 
 Night Servants axe in attendance on the arrival of the Railway 
 Trains and Packets.
 
 THE NOKTHUIBERLAND HOTEL. 
 
 Beresford Place, and Eden Quay, 
 DUBLIN, 
 
 (OPPOSITE THE CUSTOM HOUSE), 
 
 THE MOST CENTRAL IN THE CITY, BEING -VVITHIN A FEW MCNUTES' WAIiK OF 
 ALL THE PUBUC BUILDINGS, 
 
 IVIR. J. C. JOSEPH, PROPRIETOR, 
 
 FOR COMMERCIAL GENTLEMEN AND FAMILIES. 
 
 Visitors, Tourists, Commercial Gentlemen, and Families, will find this 
 Establishment, for Situation and Comfort, combined with Moderate Charges, 
 to be replete with every requisite for their accommodation. 
 
 LIST OF PRICES. 
 
 BREAKFASTS, from Is. 3d. to Is. 9d. 
 
 LUNCHEON, 
 DINNERS, 
 BEDS per night ... 
 SITTING ROOMS 
 
 ... Os. 6d. to Is. 6d. 
 
 ... Is. 8d. to 2s, 6d. 
 
 ... Is. 6d. 
 
 ... 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. 
 
 ATTENDANCE, including all Servants ... Is. per Night. 
 N.B.— The most extensive BATH ESTABLISHMENT in the Kingdom 
 attached, where Travellers on their arrival can have a Bath at a moment's 
 notice. Servants in attendance all night for the reception of visitors.
 
 ANDERSON'S EOYAL ARCADE HOTEL, 
 
 TAVERN, AND BILLIARD ROOMS, 
 
 32 AND 33, COLLEGE GREEN, AND 4 AND 5, SUFFOLK STREET, 
 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 C. SPADACCINI, Proprietor. 
 
 LIST OF PRICES. 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 Tea, Coffee, Eggs, &c... 
 Do. Cold Meat 
 Do. Hot Meat 
 
 LUNCHES. 
 
 Steak or Cutlet 
 
 Chop or Cold Meat 
 
 Mutton Broth, per Bowl 
 
 Ditto with Chop 
 
 Gravy Soup 
 
 Mock Turtle, Ox Tail, Mulli- ) 
 gatawny, Giblet, Hare or i 
 Oyster ) 
 
 DINNERS. 
 
 Joint,with Vegetables, Cheese, ) 
 
 &e I 
 
 Soup and Joint 
 
 Fish and Joint 
 
 Soup, Fish, and Joint 
 
 Cliicken and Ham 
 
 Made Dishes 
 
 Tarts 
 
 TEA AND COFFEE. 
 
 Evening Tea or Coffee 
 
 Cup of Coffee and Muffin 
 
 SUPPERS. 
 
 Lobster 
 
 Welch Rabit 
 
 Anchovy Toast 
 
 Kiflney 
 
 Spatch Cock 
 
 3. d. 
 
 1 6 
 
 1 9 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 6 
 6 
 10 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 1 6 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 6 
 2 
 1 8 
 4 
 
 1 
 6 
 
 1 6 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 Oysters 
 
 WINES. 
 
 Port and Sherry, per Bottle 
 per Pmt 
 
 Champagne, Claret, jMoselle,! 
 Sauterne, Hock, Burgundy, i 
 Hermitage, and Madeu-a, 
 per Bottle 
 
 SPIRITS. 
 
 Whiskey per Glass 
 
 Rum 
 
 Brandy and Hollands 
 
 Old Tom 
 
 Curacao, Noyeau, and Cherry ) 
 Brandy j 
 
 MALT. 
 
 XX Porter and Ales, per Pint 
 Do. in Bottles 
 
 East Lidia Ale, in do. 
 
 Do. per Pint 
 
 MINERAL WATERS. 
 
 Seltzer Water, per Bottle 
 
 Soda Water, Lemonade, and ) 
 Ginger Beer ^ 
 
 s. d. 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 2 6 
 
 7 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 4 
 
 BATHS. 
 
 Hoc Bath 
 
 Shower Bath 
 Cold Baths .. 
 
 2 
 6 
 6 
 
 BEDS. 
 
 Per Night 2 2 
 
 ALL SERVANTS PAID BY THE PROPRIETOR.
 
 HIBERNIAN HOTEL, 
 
 DAWSON STREET, 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 GEORGE NESBITT, PROPRIETOR. 
 
 The Central position of this Fine Hotel, peculiarly suits it to the accom- 
 modation of Travellers, who will find it provided with every Comfort. 
 
 The Charges, which are Moderate, will be found in the Scale at tJie first page 
 
 of this volume. 
 
 WARM BATHS ALWAYS READY. 
 
 GALWAY HOTEL, 
 
 5, SOUTH FREDERICK STREET, 
 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 MADAME DE RUYTEE, 
 
 LATE OF GALWAY, AND THE RAILWAY HOTEL, ATHLONE, 
 
 Respectfully informs the Public that she has opened the above Establish- 
 ment, and hopes by unremitting attention to the Comfort of her Guests, and 
 Moderate Charges, to secure at least as large a share of Patronage as that 
 with which she has been favoured in her former Establishment. 
 
 PRIVATE DINNERS SUPPLIED ON THE SHORTEST 
 
 NOTICE. 
 
 D US L I N . 
 
 FOLEY'S UNIVERSITY HOTEL, 
 
 31, WICKLOW STREET. 
 
 Within Tliirty Doors of Grafton Street, Left Side. 
 
 Parties or Tourists visiting DUBLIN can be comfortably accommodated 
 
 at the above Hotel; it is situated conveniently to all the Public Buildings 
 
 and Railway Stations. 
 
 Breakfasts, Is. to Is. 6d. ; Dinners, Is. 6d. ; Tea or Supper, Is.; Beds, 
 Is. to Is. 6d. 
 
 J^* A NIGHT PORTER IN ATTENDANCE.
 
 THE VERDON HOTEL, 
 
 35, 36, 37, and 38, TALBOT STREET, 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 GEORGE DINGWALL, PROPRIETOR. 
 
 Tourists aud Travellers will find the above Spacious and Ekgantly fitted 
 up Hotel admirably adapted to their Comfort and Convenience, offering every 
 inducement which IModerate Charges and Attention to their real comfort can 
 supply. The Hotel almost immediately adjoins the Dublin and Belfast Ter- 
 minus, and, from its Central Position, is one of the most Desirable Homes 
 either for tlie Stranger remaining in Dublin, or the Excursionist en route to 
 the North of Ireland or Scotland. 
 
 SUITES OP ROOMS FOR FA^ITLIES. 
 
 WICKLOW HOTEL, 
 
 5 AND 6, WICKLOW STREET, 
 
 (Off Grafton Street,) 
 
 G. CLENDENING, PROPRIETOR. 
 
 Gentlemen and Families visiting Dublin on Business or Pleasure are respect- 
 fully invited to make a trial at the above Hotel. It is most Centrally situated, 
 being in the immediate vicinity of the Public Offices and Places of Amuse- 
 ment, and within ten minutes' drive of any of the Railway Termini and 
 Packet Stations. 
 
 jS^ A NIGHT PORTER IN ATTENDANCE. 
 
 FIRST CLASS HOTEL ACCOIVIIVIODATION, 
 
 AT VERY MODERATE CHARGES. 
 
 Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen visiting Dublin, are respect- 
 fully informed that the 
 
 "EUROPEAN," BOTTON STREET, 
 
 Is the best situate, the cheapest, and most Comfortable Family and Commer- 
 cial Hotel in the City. 
 
 ALL THE SERVANTS ARE PAID BY THE PROPRIETOR. 
 
 Beds, 2s. per night ; Drawing Rooms, 2s. 6d. to 4s. ; Breakfasts, Is. 6d. to 
 2s.; Dinners, 2s. to 23. 6d. ; Evening Tea, Is. 3d. ; Suppers, Is. to Is. 6d. 
 All other Charges equally Moderate 
 
 J^ A NIGHT PORTER IN ATTENDANCE.
 
 MRS. NAYLOR'S 
 
 {Widow of the late Thomas Natjlor,) 
 
 Commercial and Family Boarding House, 
 
 72, TALBOT STREET, DUBLM, 
 
 Within a few minutes, walk of the Drogheda Railway Terminus, and General 
 Post Office. Those patronizing the above will find a Quiet Comfortable 
 Home, with every attention and Charges Strictly Moderate. 
 
 ' THE CLARENCE HOTEL, 
 6, Wellington Quay, Dublin, 
 
 In the Centre of the City, 
 
 A. IVl'DONALD, PROPRIETOR. 
 
 Cleanliness and First-rate Accommodation are the prmciples of this Hotel, 
 together with very Moderate Charges. 
 
 ENGLISH TOURISTS SOLICITED. 
 S ERVANTS CHARGED IN THE BILL. 
 
 W. J U R Y'S 
 COMMERCIAL AND FAMILY HOTEL, 
 
 6, 7, AND 8, COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLIN, 
 
 IS ONE OF THE MOST CENTRAL AND COMIVlODiOUS 
 HOTELS IN THE CITY. 
 
 HAYES'S ROYAL HOTEL, 
 
 KINGSTOWN. 
 
 The arrangements for the Season of 1854 are such as must command the 
 approbation of Visitors, by securing to them as perfect accommodation as ttin 
 be obtained in any first-class house in the Kingdom. 
 
 The Posting Establishment is supplied loith First-rate Post Horses bj Vehicles. 
 
 COUNTY WICKLOW. ~ 
 
 WOODEN BRIDGE HOTEL, 
 
 VALE OF AVOCA. 
 
 JAMES KILBEE, PROPRIETOR. 
 
 The above Hotel is situated in the most beautiful part of the Vale, command- 
 ing a delightful view of the second 
 
 MEETING OF THE WATERS. 
 CAKRIAGES AND CARS ALWAYS IN RE^vDINESS.
 
 RATIIBONE'S HOTEL, 
 
 KINGSTOWN. 
 
 THE ABOYE HOTEL 
 
 IS 
 THE ONLY ONE SITUATED OPPOSITE THE BEAUTIFUL HARBOUE; 
 
 IS CLOSE TO THE 
 
 RAILWAY AND PACKET STATION; 
 
 IS KEPT BY AN ENGLISHMAN, 
 
 WHERE CLEANLINESS AND COMFORT MAT BE KELIED UPON. 
 
 N.B.-SINGLE AND PAIE-HORSE CARKIAGES AND CARS, AND OMNIBUSES 
 FOR PARTIES, AT THE LOWEST POSSIBLE CHARGE.
 
 ^^gWAYj; 
 
 LUNCHEON AND REFRESHMENT ROOMS, 
 
 BY E. BRESLIN, 
 
 THE GREAT INDUSTRIAL EXHIBITION, 
 
 The arrangements of this Establishment and its unequalled situation afford 
 unprecedented advantages to all Tourists and Excursionists to whom a 
 short visit may render despatch indispensably necessary. 
 
 Soups, Chops, Steaks, Hot or Cold Luncheons, 
 Coffee, Tea, Wines, &c., &c.. Always Ready.
 
 IRELAND. 
 QUIN'S HOTEL, 
 
 AT 
 
 B K A Y 
 
 Is situated Ten Miles south of Dublin, on tlie Sea, and on the road 
 leading to all the beauties of the County Wicklow ; a county con- 
 taining more objects of interest to the Tourist than any other in 
 Ireland. 
 
 Hotel Accommodation of every kind is found in this Establish- 
 ment on the most Moderate Terms, and Carriages of all sorts, at 
 a rate per mile that wiU stand comparison with the cheapest rail- 
 way travelling, 
 
 John Quin, Proprietor 
 
 IRELANDE 
 
 Quin's Hotel a Bray est situe Dix Milles au sud de Dublin, sur 
 Mer, et sur la route qui conduit a toutes les beautes du comte de 
 Wicklow, qui contient plus d'objets d'interet pour le voyageur qu' 
 aucun autre comte d'lrelande. 
 
 Toute accommodation d'Hotel se trouve dans cet etabhssement, 
 au prix le plus modere, et toute espece de Voiture, a un tarif, si 
 has, par mille, qu' on voyage aussi bon marche, que sur les che- 
 mins de fer. 
 
 John Quin, Froprietaire.
 
 SOUTH OF IREIMD.-TO TOURISTS & VISITORS. 
 
 THE IMPERIAL HOTEL, 
 
 CORE, 
 
 Having' undergone very extensive alterations and improvements, will be found 
 
 second to none in the kingdom for comfort, superior accommodation, and 
 
 Moderate Charges. 
 
 MRS. COTTON, 
 
 Begs respectfully to inform Tourists in Ireland and the Public generally, that 
 in addition to the extensive accommodation hitherto provided at the Imperial, 
 she has added thirty additional Bedrooms to the Establishment. 
 
 Families who require Private Suites of Apartments will find them replete 
 with every comfort, and for the accommodation of those who do not, a large 
 and elegant Dining Room is set apart for their especial use, free of charge. 
 
 Cars can be had to Blarney Castle or the Mathew Testimonial, at the fol- 
 lowing charges, including Driver : 
 
 One person 4s., Two ditto 5s., Three or Four 6s. 
 
 And to any part of the environs of Cork in the same proportion ; and Mrs 
 Cotton has made arrangements by which all parties staying at the Imperial 
 will have access to all the places of interest in and around Cork. 
 
 All Gentlemen staying at the Imperial have the privilege of using the 
 large News Room connected with the Hotel, which is liberally supplied with 
 English, Scotch, and Irish newspapers. 
 
 The Imperial Omnibiises attend the Arrival and Departure of every Train. 
 
 A TABLE d'hote EVERY EVENING AT HALF-PAST FIVE. 
 
 HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER BATHS ALWAYS READY.
 
 VISITORS TO IRELAND. 
 
 ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL, 
 
 CORK. 
 
 TO TOURISTS VISITING CORK & THE SOUTH OF IRELAND. 
 
 E. Mc COEIIICK, 
 
 PROPRIETOR OF THE 
 
 ROYAL NAVAL, MILITARY, AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL, 
 
 Begs to inform Travellers, Tourists, and visitors to Cork, that in his Hotel 
 they will find a continuance of that comfort and attention which has been the 
 universal character of the " Victoria," and which has made it the favoiu'ite 
 Hotel with all strangers visiting that city. 
 
 The "Tariff" of prices at the "Victoria" is such as Mr. McCormick 
 trusts will meet the wishes of those favouring his Hotel with a visit. 
 
 To Tourists, Visitors, and Travellers generally, the " Victoria" offers ad- 
 vantages decidedly superior to, and admittedly above, those of any other Hotel 
 in Cork. Situated in PATRICK STREET, the chief and central street of 
 the City, with a splendid look-out, the " Victoria" presents an attractive 
 position, with a general Coffee Room, a first-rate Commercial Room, 
 Private and Family Sitting Rooms. Within the Hotel is an extensive 
 Reading Room, in which all the English, Scotch, Irish, and American Jour- 
 nals are filed, and to which all visitors and Toiu'ists stopping at the " Victoria" 
 have "free" access. 
 
 The " Victoria" is right in the centre of PATRICK STREET, close to 
 
 , the Post Office and Banks, near the Theatre, Custom House, and Stamp 
 
 Office, within two minutes' walk of the Steam-packet Offices, and contiguous 
 
 to the Wharf, whence the Queenstown, Passage, and Monkstown Steamers 
 
 arrive and depart. 
 
 From the Hotel, the "Victoria Omnibuses" go to and return from all Rail- 
 way Stations, thus saving Strangers the trouble of Cabs, wliich is an annoy- 
 ance Travellers but too often have reason to complain of. With the above 
 advantages and the position of the "Victoria," coupled with a scale of 
 moderate charges, in keeping with the times, and commensurate with the 
 character of his hotel, Mr. Mc Cormick trusts that, combined with his 
 assiduous attention, and carefulness to the wants and wishes of his Customers 
 Visitors, Tourists, and Travellers generally, will give him a trial, feeling coni 
 vinced that they wUl have no cause to regret havuig patronised the " Vic- 
 toria." 
 
 Ici on parle Fran^ais, AUemagne, et Italien. 
 
 Table d'Hoie every Evening at Half-past 5 o'clock.
 
 ECOLES'S 
 
 BANTRY AEMS HOTEL, 
 
 GLENGAEIFF. 
 
 A LAKGis Wixsu, TOGETHER WITH OTHER IMPROVEMENTS, 
 HAVE LATELY BEEN ADDED. 
 
 THOMAS ECCLES, Proprietor, 
 
 Begs respectfully to inform Tourists, and the Public visiting Glengariff, that 
 nothing shall be wanting on his part to secure Comfort and Accommodation. 
 
 For Parties who do not requii'e Private Sitting Rooms, there will be a large and 
 well-fui-nished Public Room, to accommodate from 30 to 40 Gentlemen, free of 
 charge, situated in front of the New Addition. 
 
 The Hotel is happily situated La the most picturesque part of the Glen, fronting 
 the Harbour, with all its beautiful Creeks and Islands, so well adapted for Sea 
 Bathing, Boating, &c. ; commanding an extensive view of the Harbour and Bay 
 of Bantry over ten miles across. 
 
 T. ECCLES begs also to inform Anglers, &c., that he has obtained the exclu- 
 sive right, from the Earl of Bantry, of the Salmon and Trout Fishery in the Tide- 
 way ; also the principal Lakes and Rivers in Glengariff. The former will be 
 hauled by Lines and Nets every day, and some of the large Pools in the River. 
 His object in securing this, at a great expense, is for the Inducement and Accommo- 
 dation of Tourists and Anglers ; also for secm-ing a constant supply of good Fish 
 for the Hotel. A great portion of the above waters run through the HoteJ 
 demesne. 
 
 Pleasure Boats of every Size, from Two Oars to Six Oars. Whale Boats 
 on very Moderate Terms, from One Hour to an Entire Day 
 
 THE POSTING AND CARKIAGE ESTABLISHMENT AS IjbUAL.
 
 GLENGARIFF EOYAL HOTEL, 
 
 WILLIAM ROCHE, PROPRIETOR, 
 
 (Also of" The Muclcross," Killarney.) 
 Of the many places of interest and attraction for Travellers in Ireland, Glen- 
 gariff is generally regarded as one af the most exquisite and beautiful, pos- 
 sessing as it does all the Romantic Scenery of Ivillamey, with the most 
 splendid features of Sea-coast and Mountain Prospect in the World. This 
 charming place, hitherto so much admired — but unfortunately too little availed 
 of, in consequence of its want of accommodation — now presents at this Hotel 
 every comfort required by the most fastidious. The site is altogether un- 
 equalled even in this matchless locality, the Pleasure Groimds of which slope 
 down to the Sea-shore, and afford excellent Sea-bathing, overlooking the 
 Bays of Glengariff and Bantry, and surrounded by an amphitheatre of Moun- 
 tains, which render it the most delightful sojourn. 
 
 The internal arrangements are carried out in a style to defy competition ; 
 the Bed Rooms, which are lofty and well ventilated, are fitted up with due 
 attention to Comfort and Cleanliness ; the Drawing Rooms are furnished in a 
 superior style of Elegance ; the Public Room has a Retiring Room attached 
 for the Greater Comfort of those requiring privacy. The Boatmg and Post- 
 ing Departments are replete Anth every requisite for comfort and convenience. 
 
 A TABLE D'HOTE 
 
 Every Evening on the arrival of the PubUc Conveyances — all which from the 
 Killarney and Bandon Railways arrive at and start from the " Royal." 
 
 C H A R G E S • 
 Breakfast, Is. 3d. to 2s. ; Dinner, 2s. 6d. ; Tea, Is.' 3d. ; Beds, Is. 8d. to 2s. 6d.; 
 Drawing Rooms, Ss. to 5s. per day; Servants charged in bill Is. 3d. per day; 
 Fom'-oared Boat, 10s. per day; Two-oared Boat, 5s. per day; One-horse Car, 
 per mile 6d. ; Two-horse Car, per mile, Is.
 
 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 
 
 MUCKEOSS HOTEL, 
 
 WILLIAM EOCHE, PROPRIETOR, 
 
 {Also of the "Royal Glengariff") 
 
 Takes leave most respectfully to announce to Tourists to the far-famed LAKES 
 3F KILLAKNEY, that the above-named Establishment is now fitted up in a 
 Style of Elegance not inferior to any in the Kingdom, and he trusts by unremitting 
 ittention to the comforts of those who make his House their Home, to merit a 
 x)ntinuance of that patronage liitherto so liberally bestowed on him. 
 
 To those who have before sojommed at the MUCKROSS HOTEL (and on the 
 ages of its books of arrivals are enrolled the names of very many of the most 
 liistinguished individuals of this and other coimtries), very little need be said; to 
 those who have not, the Proprietor wishes to point out a few of the advantages of 
 position enjoyed by liis Establishment over any other in the locality, which render 
 it by far the most desirable and economical Residence while at Killarney. 
 
 The Traveller, on arriving at the MUCKROSS HOTEL, is set down in the 
 midst of Killarney's concentrated beauties, right opposite the splendid demesne, 
 pleasure grounds, and celebrated ABBEY OF MUCKROSS, to which all visitors 
 at his EstabUshment have free access, and from the shores of which, also, by the 
 kind permission of its princely owner, H. A. Herbert, Esq., they are allowed to 
 embark on the fair waters of those truly lovely Lakes, at the foot of mighty Man- 
 gerton, within ten minutes' walk of Tore Waterfall, on the unrivalled road to 
 Glengariff, which for some miles on either side of this Hotel vraids amidst 
 
 " Those misrhty mountains which stand 
 To sentinel this fairy land." 
 
 In short, to attempt a description of the numerous advantages at the command 
 of the sojourner at this House, would be to attempt an impossibility; suffice it to 
 say, that more of the beauties of Killarney can be seen in one day by staying at it, 
 than elsewhere in thi'ee. When, added to the above, the extremely moderate charges 
 be taken into account, a little reflection will point ont to all the — road to Muckross. 
 
 W. R's. Cars are in constant attendance on all the Trains, and public convey- 
 ances to take parties to and from the MUCKROSS, free of charge. His boats, 
 which are always allowed to be the best, will be found suitably manned. 
 
 N.B. The public conveyances to and from Glengariff pass the gate, take up and 
 8et down parties. No charge for Sitting-Rooms. Parties making a lengthened 
 Ktay can be accommodated with Board and Lodging at 28s. per week.
 
 Lakes of Eillarney. 
 
 THE TORO YWM HOTEL. 
 
 J. HURLEY, PROPRIETOR. 
 
 The TORC VIEW HOTEL, situate on a pictHresque eminence, 15 minutes' drive from 
 the Town of Killamey, commands unequalled views of the mj-riad beauties of this lovely 
 region, extending over many miles, from the Horses Glen to the mouth of the Shannon, 
 and lying clearly before the Tourist, ere leaving his bed-room window in the morning and 
 all the loveliness of nature's beauties, from ^langerton Steeps and Tore's Cascade to the 
 Long Range, Eagle's Xest, The Tooniies Mountains, the L'pper and Lower Lakes, with 
 their countless Islands miiTored at its feet. The Visitor staying at this Hotel, can trace 
 upon nature's map, ere starting in the morning on his day's Excursion, and renew its en- 
 joyments at one glance upon his return at dusky eve,- whilst for Pedestrians, from its close 
 proximity to Lough Kittane, Glen Flisk, and Muckross, seat of H. A. Herbert, Esq., 
 M.P., who kindly permits all Visitors staying at the Tone View Hotel the pri^nlege of 
 at any tune passing through his magnificent demesne, on which stands the venerable 
 Muckross Abbey. In addition to these, the Proprietor of the Tone View Hotel promises 
 strictest attention to the convenience of those honouring him with support, combined with 
 such economy as may render their recollection of Killamey one of unmixed pleasure. 
 
 Guides, Boats, Ponies, and Cars atf<icfied to the EstaUishment. 
 
 Charges: — ^Breakfast, Is. 8d. ; Dinner, 23. 6(1. ; Tea, Is. 3d. ; Bed Is. 6d. 
 
 Cars and Omnibuses from the Hotel await the arrival of the several trains, &c. 
 into Killarney, and convey Visitors to and from the Hotel free of Charge. 
 
 NO CHARGE FOR PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS.
 
 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 
 
 THE LAKE HOTEL, 
 
 CASTLE-LOUGH . 
 
 T. COTTER, 
 
 Proprietor, begs to return his most sincere thanks to the Nobility and 
 Gentry of the United Kingdom for the distinguished and liberal patronage 
 bestowed on him since he opened the Lake Hotel. In order to meet 
 the increasing demand he is receiving, he has this year added several 
 suites of Sitting-rooms and Bed-rooms to his establishment ; these, with his 
 other numerous rooms, are now fitted up in a most superior style of elegance 
 and comfort, and command the most matchless views of the scenery. The 
 Lake Hotel is distant about one mile from the town of Killarney, on the 
 southern shore of the Lower Lr^ke, on the celebrated Castle Lough Bay, the 
 waters of which wash beneath its windoAvs. It commands an extensive yiew 
 of the varied and romantic scenery of the Lakes and their verdant islands, the 
 mountains of Tore, Gleua, Tomies, and the Reeks, the ivied towers of Ross 
 and the lofty Mangertown, and the wooded shores of Muckross, forming one 
 of the grandest panoramic views in Ireland, and on which the eye rests with 
 admiration and delight from every window of the Lake Hotel. The de- 
 mesne, which is walled in, is extensive and beautifully wooded, the pleasure 
 grounds are tastefully laid out, &c., the walks are adorned by the arbutus, 
 and those plants indigenous to Killarney. Adjoining Castle Lough is the far- 
 famed Muckross, the seat of H. A. Herbert, Esq , M.P., who kindly permits aU 
 visitors staying at the Lake Hotel the privilege of at any time passing 
 through his magnificent demesne, on which stands the venerable Muckross 
 Abbey. 
 
 Visitors at the Lake Hotel will enjoy the greatest privacy and proximity to 
 the water, with the facilities afforded by a peculiarly central situation for see- 
 ing the Three Lakes, and the most interesting parts of the scenery, which 
 must be a strong recommendation in favour of the Lake Hotel, where alone 
 these requisites are realized. 
 
 T. COTTER has fii-st class two, four, and six-oared Boats, for which there 
 are fixed charges. Cars and Carriages for Posting, and Saddle Ponies for 
 Mountain Excursions. A well-appointed Omnibus and Cars attend the Rail- 
 way Station to convey passengers to and from the Lake Hotel free of expense. 
 T. COTTER pledges himself to pay every care and attention to those who 
 kindly honour him with their support. A few select Boarders can be accom- 
 modated from the 1st November to the 1st May, on Moderate Terms, and have 
 the use of Fishing Boats gratis. Visitors are requested to observe that there 
 is only one Lake Hotel. 
 
 ^S" servants are charged in the BILh OF THE HOUSE.
 
 23s ^^^ Most Gracious itta|Estg's Special permission, 
 
 ♦ 
 
 THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL 
 
 LAKELANDS, 
 
 AKD 
 
 KENMARE ARMS HOTEL, 
 
 EILLABXEY. 
 
 Respectfully takes leave to inform the Nobility and Gentry of the United Kingdom that hg 
 Establishments are now fitted up in a most superior style of elegance and comfort, for the 
 reception of Visitors to the far-famed 
 
 LAKES OF EILLARNET. 
 
 From the liberal patronage shown to, and the unqualified approbation expressed by the 
 numerous Visitors to his Establishment last season (among whom he is proud of having the 
 honour of numbering several families of the highest distinction) , he has been induced, fa' 
 their convenience and comfort, to erect this year at the VICTORIA HOTEL, 
 
 HOT, COLD, SHOWER, AND TEPID BATHS, 
 
 on the most approved plan, and which can be got ready at a few minutes' notice. 
 
 To those who have not visited the VICTORIA HOTEL, he begs to inform them that it is 
 situated on the north-west shore of the Lower Lake, in one of the most delightful localities in 
 this land of beauty, immediately adjoining the extensive and richly planted demesne of the 
 Rt. Hon. the Earl of Kenmare, and within less than a mUe of the town of Killarney. The 
 
 SITTINGS ROOMS AND BED EOOMS, 
 
 which are exceedingly commodious and airy, command 
 
 A GRAND PANORAMIC VIEW OF THE LOWER LAKE, 
 
 And its numerous verdant islands. Directly in front, rests on the bosom of the waters the 
 far-famed fairv isle of our national poet, THE LOVELY INNISFALLEN, ROSS 
 ISLAND, and 'its ivy-mantled tower ; THE LAMB, HERON, and ARBUTUS ISLANDS, 
 TORC and TOMNES, with their separate cascades. The lovely demesne and ANCIENT 
 ABBEY OF MUCKROSS, MANGERTON, GLENA, and the REEKS, all beautifully 
 contrasted as in a magic glass — features which the eye rests upon with wonder and delight 
 from every window of the VICTORIA HO i EL. 
 
 THE REi\MARE ARMS HOTEL 
 
 Has been recently fitted up in a most superior style, and is within a few minutes' walk of 
 the beautifuUy wooded island of Ross, and the demesne. Visitors, on arrival by cars or 
 coaches, will be sent, free of expense, to the Victoria. The same unremitting care and 
 attention (which have gained for the Proprietor so many kind patrons) shall be used to 
 merit a continuance of that support so liberally bestowed on him by a discerning public. To 
 prevent Visitors from any imposition that may be attempted, the Proprietor has built Two, 
 Four, and Six-oared Boats, for which there is a fixed charge, on the lowest scale. Ihe / 
 strictest care and attention bestowed on the Posting Establishment, which is very extensiv* ' 
 
 A few select Boarders can be accommodated on very moderate terms, from the 1st of 
 October to the 1st of May, and can have the use of the Fishing Boat gratis.
 
 Lakes of Killarney. 
 ROYAL HIBERNIAN HOTEL, 
 
 NEXT DOOR TO THE POST OFFICE. 
 
 D. KELLIHEU 
 
 Takes leave to inform all Strangers and Visitors to the Lakes, that his charges 
 are extremely moderate, viz. : — Bed and Breakfast, 3s. ; Dinner, Is. 8d. ; 
 Tea, Is. ; a Four-oared Boat, manned, per day, 8s. ; Two-oared do. do., 5s. ; 
 Ponies, per day, 3s. 6d. ; a Car to the Gap, 6s. ; do. to Ross Island, 23. 6d. '; 
 do to the Police Station on the New Line, 5s. ; do. to Tore Waterfall, Ss. • 
 do to Muckross Demesne and Dinas Island, 5s. 
 
 BILLIARD ROOM TO THE REAR. 
 D. KELLIHER, PROPRIETOR, NEW STREET, KILLARNEY. 
 
 BANDON. 
 Devonshire Arms Hotel. 
 
 Tourists and other Visitors will find this Hotel equal to any otlier for its 
 moderate charges and healthful situation. The scenery includes the beautifu* 
 Demesne and Gardens of Castle Bernard (to which Parties have access by the 
 kind permission of its noble owner), Shippool, Harbour View, old head of 
 Kiusale, &c., &c. Coaches, in connection with the Railway, pass every day, 
 within a few yards of the Hotel to Bantry, &c., &c. 
 
 THE WESTPOET HOTEL. 
 
 DALY'S ROYAL MAIL. 
 
 The delightful situation of this magnificent Hotel, the pleasure grounds to 
 the rear of which command one of the most 
 
 DELIGHTFUL RURAL VIEWS IN NATURE, 
 
 And the accommodation it affords, are so well known to Tourists of the highest 
 distinction from almost all parts of the world, that the proprietor does not 
 deem it necessary to state further than that the same unremitting attention 
 which secm-ed for it general approbation, and constituted its acknowledged 
 superiority, shall be strictly adhered to. 
 
 CHARGES EXCEEDINGLY MODERATE.
 
 M A C R O M . 
 
 THE QUEEN'S ARMS HOTEL 
 
 AND 
 
 POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. 
 
 JOHN WILLIAMS, PROPRIETOR, 
 
 Respectfully informs TOURISTS, that at this Hotel they -will find the 
 same comfortable accommodation (with moderate charges,) as that which has 
 secured for over 40 years the kind patronage of the Public. 
 
 POST HORSES READY AT THE SHORTEST NOTICE, 
 
 For Glengariff or Bantry, by the Lakes of Inchigeela, Gougane Barra, and 
 Glen of Keimaneigh, for the MOlstreet Station, of the KiUarney Junction 
 Railway, (distant from Macroom 14 mUes), &c. &c. 
 
 CONNEMARA, COUNTY OF GALWAY. 
 
 KESLIY'S HOTEL, 
 
 ROUNDSTONE. 
 
 The Proprietor respectfully mforms TOURISTS, TRAVELLERS, and 
 VISITORS to the far-famed 
 
 IRISH highlan:ds, 
 
 that the Hotel is now fitted up with a due regard to the comfort and accom- 
 modation of Families and Parties who may honour him with their patronage 
 for the purpose of 
 
 SEA-BATHING, FISHING, BOATING, OR SEAL SHOOTING. 
 
 BIANCONPS well appointed CARS run between GALWAY and 
 ROUNDSTONE DAILY, Passengers Booking in GALWAY. 
 
 The Posting Department is well supplied with Post Horses and Cars, equal 
 to any other in Ireland. Guides, Fishermen, with boats, &c., always ui 
 attendance for the accommodation of anglers.
 
 a CT r« s.-' J". 
 5 
 
 059 
 677 
 
 CRUISE'S 
 
 LIMERICK. 
 
 SUPERIOR ACCOMMODATION 
 
 WITH EVERT FACILITY FOR THE 
 
 CO:ffVENIENCE AND COMFOET OF ITS PATRONS, 
 
 AKE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS HOTEL. 
 
 TO THE FRENCH AS WELL AS ENGLISH TOUKISX 
 
 THIS ESTABLISHMENT 
 
 WILL BE FOUND TO POSSESS ADVANTAGES NOT USUALLY MET WITH IN HOTELS 
 
 Omnibuses belonging to the Hotel attend the Arrival and Departure of 
 the Trains and Steamboats.
 
 MOORE'S ROYAL MAIL COACH HOI EL, 
 
 LIMERICK, 
 
 Comfort, Cleanliness, and Moderate Charges will be found combined in this 
 
 Hotel. 
 
 OMNIBUSES ATTEND THE TRAINS. 
 
 Bianconi's Coaches and Cars to Galway, Tralee, 
 Ennis, and Killarney, leave the Hotel daily. 
 
 KILLARNEY TO CONNEMARA, 
 
 THE LOWER SHANNON, AND KILKEE. 
 
 MOORE'S HOTEL, KILKEE, 
 
 Tourists purposing to visit the Delightful Scenery of the Western Coast are 
 respectfully informed that this Estabhshment has been fitted up ia a style that 
 wUl ensure them all the comforts of a City Hotel, and every exertion is used 
 by the Proprietor to secure from each individual a confirmation of the character 
 his house bears. Tourists will find this to be the most convenient as well as 
 most interesting route from Killarney to Counemara, as, together with the 
 
 GRAND AND VARIED COAST SCENERY, 
 
 In the immediate vicinity, the road leads by the 
 
 STUPENDOUS CLIFFS OF MOHER, 
 
 AND THE INTERESTING COAST DRIVE BY 
 
 BLACK HEAD AND GALWAY BAY. 
 
 ALL FROM KILLARNEY TO GALWAY TWO DAYS' JOURNEY. 
 
 Omnibuses attend the Steamer at Kilrush, and Cars 
 convey from hence to Galway
 
 GALWAY. 
 
 THE CLAMICARDE ARMS, 
 
 KILROY'S HOTEL, 
 
 EYRE SQUARE. 
 
 Is the best situated Hotel in Gahvay ; where the Tourist wUl find every comfort 
 that can be sought for. Parties visiting Galway en route for 
 
 THE INTERESTING WILDS OF CONNEMARA, 
 
 ■will find this Hotel the most convenient, as it aflfords the necessary Comforts and 
 Accommodation ; having in connexion 
 
 Mr. Bianconi's Coaches and Cars. 
 
 The following of which leave the Hotel daily : — 
 
 THE LIMERICK DAY COACH AND ROYAL MAIL CAR, 
 
 HEADFORT AND WESTPORT CAR, 
 
 TUAM AND SLIGO CAR, 
 
 OUGHTERARD AND CLIFDEN ROYAL MAIL COACH AND CAR. 
 
 Toiirists will here find the best and only 
 COMFORTABLE POSTING ESTABLISHMENT IN CALWAY, 
 
 WHKEE 
 
 Good Post-Horses, Open and Close Carriages, and Cars, 
 
 Are to be had, with Careful Drivers, all on reasonable Terms. 
 
 LIVERY STABLES AND LOCK-UP COACH HOUSES. 
 
 *,* The Charges of this Hotel are exceedingly Moderate, and every Attention 
 paid the Stranger.
 
 ANTRIM ARMS HOTEL, 
 BALLYCASTLE, 
 
 A. M'DONNELL, PKOPRIETOE, 
 
 In returning thanks for the very liberal support given him during the many 
 years he has conducted the above Establishment, respectfully informs the 
 Public that he has just completed very extensive alterations on his Premises, 
 such as Water-closets, &c., &c., which render it one of the most commodious 
 Hotels along the coast of Antrim. And he hopes by continued attention and 
 moderate charges to merit future visits of Tourists and Commercial Gentle- 
 men. The Hotel is 4 miles from Fairhead, the scenery of which is thought 
 to be equal to that of the Causeway, 4 miles from Carrickarede, and 11 mSes 
 from the 
 
 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 
 The mail cars for Belfast, Glenarm, Same, Ballymony, Coleraine, and 
 Derry, leave this Hotel every morning, and arrive in the evening. 
 
 Excellent Post-Horses, Cartful Drivers, Close and Open Carriages, Long, 
 Short, and Covered Cars, always kept ready at the Hotel. 
 
 RODEN ARMS HOTEL, 
 BRYANSFORD. 
 
 GEORGE REED 
 
 Begs leave to return his best thanks to the Nobility and Gentry who have 
 hitherto so kindly patronised his Establishment. Tourists visiting the North 
 of Ireland, and desiring to enjoy the bold and romantic Sceneiy of the Morne 
 Mountains, will find every comfort and attention at the RODEN ARMS on 
 the most reasonable terms. The Hotel stands in the immediate vicinity of 
 the beautiful demesne of Tollymore Park, to which visitors are freely admitted ; 
 it is also within two miles of the fashionable sea-bathing village of Newcastle. 
 
 Post-Horses and Carriages for Hire. 
 
 IMPERIAL HOTEL, 
 LONDONSERRT. 
 
 MRS. GREER 
 
 Respectfully invites the patronage of Tourists visiting the maiden city to her 
 Hotel, which will be found replete with every requisite for their accommoda- 
 tion. The high character the 1MPERL\L has so long maintained is a gua- 
 rantee that every attention is paid to the comfort and convenience of it3 
 guests. The charges will be found equally moderate "with any other first-rate 
 Hotel. 
 
 A Conveyance is alwags in waiting on the arrival of Trains and Steamboats
 
 DISRAELI'S WORKS. 
 
 POPULAR EDITION. 
 
 Complete for 15s. 6d., in fcap. 8vo, 
 boards. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 VENETIA: A ROMANCE 1 6 
 
 HENRIETTA TEMPLE 1 6 
 
 SYBIL; or the TWO NATIONS... 1 6 
 
 CONTARINI FLEMING 1 6 
 
 ALROY 1 6 
 
 CONINGSBY 1 6 
 
 IXION 1 6 
 
 TANCRED 1 6 
 
 THE YOUNG DUKE 1 6 
 
 VIVANGREY 2 
 
 LIBRARY EDITION. 
 
 Now ready, in post 8vo, cloth, 
 lettered. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 VENETIA: A ROMANCE 3 6 
 
 HENRIETTA TEMPLE 3 6 
 
 SYBIL; or the TWO NATIONS ... 3 6 
 
 CONTARINI FLEMING 2 6 
 
 ALROY 2 6 
 
 CONINGSBY 3 6 
 
 IXION 2 6 
 
 TANCRED 3 6 
 
 THE YOUNG DUKE 2 6 
 
 VIVIAN GREY 
 
 COMIC NOVEL BY THEODORE HOOK. 
 
 In fcp. 8vo, bds.j Is. 6d. 
 
 NED MUSGRAVE; OR, THE MOST UNFORTUNATE MAN IN 
 
 THE WORLD. 
 
 BY THEODORE HOOK: 
 
 New Edition, in fcp. 8vo, bds., price Is. 6d., or 2s. in Cloth. 
 
 THE JESUIT; A TALE.— SHOWING THE CHARACTER AND 
 
 POLICY OF THE ORDER. 
 
 New Edition, in fcap. 8vo, boards, price Is. 6d. 
 ADVENTURES OF A BASHFUL IRISHMAN. 
 
 BY W. F. DEACON, 
 
 Author of "Annette," '■^November Nights," ^c, S)C. 
 
 ^ The late Judge Talfoukd, in his Memoir of Mr. Deacon, calls this 
 hmnourous tale " A pleasant history of an Irish Gil Bias, containing sati- 
 rical notices of prominent Irish Patriots, and a description of an Irish 
 Trial, in which is given a vivid and extremely amusing caricature of 
 
 O'CONNELL." 
 
 SONG BOOKS. 
 
 In Royal S2mo, Cloth, Lettered, containing nearly 400 pages each. 
 
 BLAIvE'S SPRIG OF SHILLELAH ; or, Irish Comic Song Book. With 
 
 a finely engraved Portrait of Samuel Lover, Esq. Price Is. 
 
 THIS volume contains MR. lover's best comic songs. 
 
 DIPROSE'S ROYAL SONG BOOK. With Frontispiece. Price Is. 
 
 DIPROSE'S COMIC AND MODERN SONG BOOK. With Frontispiece. 
 
 Price Is. 
 
 DIPROSE'S NATIONAL SONG BOOK. With a beautifuUy engraved 
 Portrait of Sims Reeves. Price Is. 
 
 LONDON :-DAVID BRYCE, 48, PATERNOSTER ROW.
 
 BOOKS, MAPS, & CHARTS, 
 
 ILLIJSTRATIVE OF 
 
 IRISH SCENERY, LIFE, MANNERS, &c. 
 
 THE miSH INDUSTRIAL EXHIBITION OF 1853. A detaHed Cata- 
 logue of its conteuts, with ci'itical dissertations, statistical information, and 
 details of manufacturing processes in the various deijartments. Profusely 
 Illustrated. Edited by J. Sproule, Esq. Royal 8vo. Cloth. 15s. 
 
 THE NEW TRAVELLING ^L\P OF IRELA:N'D. By Jaiies Fraser. 
 With distances between the towns marked in statute miles. Coloured, in a 
 case, 5s. cloth ; or, Geologically Coloured, in a case, 8s. 6d. 
 
 A HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN IRELANT). By J.\mes 
 Fraser. New Edition. Road Maps, &c. Crown 8vo. 
 
 A HAND-BOOK FOR THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY, and the sur- 
 rounding Scenery. By James Eraser, Author of a "A Hand-book for 
 Travellers in L'eland." With a ^lap. Is. 6d. 
 
 A ^^^EK IN THE SOUTH OF IRELAND, including Notices of Cork, 
 Limerick, KiUarney, and Glengariff. New and enlarged Edition. AVith a 
 Map. Price Is. 
 
 THE BOY:vE ANT) BLACKWATER Illustrated, Historically and Topo- 
 graphically. By William Robert Wild. With a i\Iap, an Itinerary, and 
 numerous Engravings on Wood. A handsome volume. Cheap Edition, re- 
 vised and enlarged. Cro^vn 8vo. 5s. Cloth. 
 
 IRISH RAILWAY GUIDES ; being complete Charts of the lines, point- 
 ing out every object of interest in their vicinity. I. — Dublin to Carlow, 39 
 Illustrations. II — Dublin to Tipperary and Limerick, 130 Miles, 51 lUus- 
 trations. 6d. each. III. — Dublin to Cork, 164 MUes, 62 Illustrations. Is, 
 Dublin to Belfast, Is. V, — Dublin to KUlarney, Is. 
 
 KILLARNEY: A Panoramic View from the Summit of Mangerton, beau- 
 tifully executed in Tinted LithograjA. Is. on a Sheet ; 2s. in a Case ; 2s. 6d. 
 Coloured. 
 
 KILLARNEY: A View taken from Lord Kenmare's Demesne, Engraved 
 on Steel, from a Sketch by Sir Charles O'Donxel. 3s. 6d. in a case ; or 
 5s. coloured. 
 
 " In tliis beautiful panorama tlie tourist wiU recognise nearly every object which ex- 
 citfid his wonder or admiration on visiting the incomparable scenery of KiUamey." — 
 Saunders' Xeics-Letter. 
 
 " Executed in admirable stj'le. . . Xo person visiting Killamey should go without it. 
 It is conveniently done up in a cover, and, with the lithographic bird's eye view from the 
 summit of JIangerton, forms a complete pictorial companion and guide to the most charm- 
 ing and picturesque spot in these islands." — Daily Express. 
 
 A HAND-BOOK OF IRISH ANTIQUITIES, Pagan and Christian; 
 especially of such as are easy of access from tlie Irish Metropolis. By. W. 
 F. Wakemax. With 100 Illustrations, A beautiful Pocket Volimie. Fcp. 
 8vo. 5s. cloth. 
 
 DLTBLIN ANT) ITS ENVIRONS. With a considerable Portion of the 
 County Wicklow. By Jajles Eraser. Folded in Case, Is. 6d. 
 
 FLAN OF DUBLIN. In Case, 6d. ; or. Enlarged and Coloured, I3
 
 BOOKS, MAPS, AND CHARTS-CONTINUED. 
 
 HAND-BOOK FOR DUBLIN AND ITS ENVIRONS. By James 
 Fraser. With Map of the City and Street Maps on an entirely new plan. 
 Cloth 2*. 
 
 DAY AT HOWTH. Guide to its most prominent objects, &c. Illastrated, 
 small 8vo. Is. 
 
 A TOUR TO CONNEMARA ; With remarks on its Physical Capabilities. 
 By George Preston White. With a Map. 2s. 6d. cloth. The MAP, 
 separately, in a case, Is. 6d. 
 
 A THREE DAYS' TOUR IN THE COUNTY OF WICKLOW. By Geo. 
 Preston White. With a Map. Is. sewed. The Map, separately, in case, Is. 
 
 A HAND-BOOK FOR THE ROYAL DUBLIN SOCIETY'S BOTANIC 
 GARDENS, Glasnevin. With numerous Cuts. 6d. sewed. 
 
 SPECIMENS OF THE EARLY NATIVE POETRY OF IRELAND, 
 in English Metrical Translations, by Miss Brooke, Dr. Drummond, Samuel 
 Ferguson, J. C. Mangan, Furlong, H. Grattau Cun-an, Edward Walsh, J. 
 D'Alton, John Anster, LL.D., &c., &c. By H. R. Montgomery. Is. sewed. 
 
 IRISH POPULAR SONGS ; with English Metrical Versions, English 
 and Irish Interpaged. By Edward Walsh. Is. sewed. 
 
 KING'S HISTORY OF THE CHURCH IN IRELAND. With Orna- 
 mental Cover. Fcp. Is. sewed. 
 
 IRISH POPULAR SUPERSTITIONS. By Wm. Robert Wilde. 
 With Frontispiece Small 8vo. Is. sewed. 
 
 THE LIFE AND TIMES OF GEORGE ROBERT FITZGERALD, 
 commonly called " Fighting Fitzgerald." With Portrait. Small 8vo. Is. sewed. 
 
 IRELAND SIXTY YEARS_ AGO. Third Edition, small 8vo., sewed, 
 with Portrait of Tiger Roche, View of Dalkey, &c. Is. sewed. 
 
 REVELATIONS OF IRELAND IN THE PAST GENERATION. By 
 D. Owen Maddyn, Esq., (of the Inner Temple), Author of " Ireland and its 
 Rulers," &c. Post 8vo. 5s. cloth. 
 
 Contents : — The Old Munster Bar. Dean Kirwan and Irish Pulpit Eloquence. Eo- 
 mance in High Life. O'Comielliana. The Power of the Priesthood; Endowment. 
 The Defence of Ilighfort. The Penal Days. Provincial Ambition ; Gerard Callaghan. 
 A Night of Horror. Terrors of the Law. A Scotchman in Munster. The Irish Nobility; 
 Imperial Nationality. 
 
 IRISH MELODIES ; with Symphonies and Accompaniments by Sir J. 
 Stephenson, Mus. Doc, and Characteristic Words by Thomas Moore. A 
 New Edition, Edited by F. Robinson. In two Volumes 4to., beautifully 
 bound and gilt. 30s. 
 
 THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE BIRDS OF IRELAND, indi- 
 genous and migratory, containing descriptions of their habits, migrations, 
 occurrence, and economy. By J. J. Walters. Fcp. 8vo. 5s. 
 
 DUBLIN: JAMES M'GLASHAN, 50, UPPER SAGKVILLE-ST. 
 
 SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS, AND AT THE 
 RAILWAY STATIONS.
 
 c3 
 
 h3 
 
 < 
 
 O 
 
 GO 
 
 GO 
 I— H 
 
 h-5 
 
 <i -J P=H 
 K HI ^^^ 
 
 o 
 
 P 
 
 h-l 
 
 5 
 
 LU 
 CO 
 
 U. 
 
 O 
 
 q: 
 
 Q. 
 
 Ph 
 P^ 
 
 P^ 
 
 -^ 
 P^ 
 PP 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 5 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 cc 
 
 > 
 
 < 
 
 o 
 
 a 
 
 z 
 
 < 
 
 LU 
 
 S 
 
 < 
 
 z 
 
 < 
 o 
 
 X 
 H 
 
 < 
 CC 
 
 UJ 
 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 z 
 o 
 
 £^ 
 
 O i 
 ft ^ 
 
 <1I 
 
 W 
 
 3 S 
 
 
 J>2 •-• 
 
 cq 
 
 r 
 « 
 
 55 O 
 
 r s 
 
 o ^ 
 
 la 
 
 P^ 
 
 P 
 O 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 1:1 
 
 p5 •§ 
 
 pq 
 d 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 l> "^ 
 o 
 
 o - 
 
 o H 
 
 g O 
 
 ft H 
 
 S p5 
 
 O hM 
 
 .S 
 
 o ^ 
 
 -S N 
 
 S < 
 
 -I 
 
 i < 
 
 S UJ 
 
 " I 
 
 H- 
 
 u. 
 C 
 
 
 =. UJ 
 
 o 
 
 ^ 
 
 ■Pi P5 
 
 
 
 p.. 
 
 3 
 
 bO 
 
 •a 
 
 P
 
 o 
 
 *^ 
 o 
 
 p 
 
 2 
 /■■^ 
 o 
 
 r^ <i 
 
 
 r 
 
 > 
 
 33 
 O 
 
 rn 
 m 
 
 t^^ CA^S.Sr. 
 
 ^ ol 
 
 02 
 
 
 o> 
 qO 
 
 h33 
 
 "J 
 
 bri S rr' Hrl O 
 
 o ■'' ? ° '^ ■ 
 H Zo S-cc 
 
 
 So 
 
 
 aq 
 
 c» 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 "A > 
 
 c/> 
 
 tso2 
 
 • 33 
 
 ■H 
 
 3: 
 
 != 33 
 
 W — 
 
 § O 
 
 r > 
 
 hs,S 
 HjP o 
 
 p > 
 
 PC 
 
 
 
 3> s 
 
 t-'t>S- 
 
 § I 
 
 pi • 
 
 02. 
 
 ?► p 
 
 o 
 
 CI 
 1-3 
 
 > 
 
 ^ 
 
 gf S ^ 
 
 
 o 
 
 n3 
 
 ©2 
 
 
 
 •tf 
 
 
 o 
 
 O 
 
 
 »^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 >— I 
 
 H 
 
 ffi 
 
 
 > 
 
 >- 
 
 (0 
 
 o 
 
 ^ 
 
 p 
 3 
 & 
 
 
 o 
 
 09 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 B 
 
 Cf9 
 
 S! 
 
 
 ►< 
 
 1^ 
 
 w 
 
 ES 
 
 in 
 
 m 
 
 
 m 
 
 if^ 
 
 o 
 
 5> 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 © 
 
 w 
 
 
 2. 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 e* 
 
 
 s 
 
 (D 
 
 
 CTlJ 
 
 9< 
 
 
 
 1
 
 EMIGRATION BY STEAM TO CANADA. 
 
 CANADIAN STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. 
 
 {Under Contract with her Majesti/s Provincial Government of Canada.) 
 THE ElVER ST. LA-\J'RENCE THE SHORTEST & CHEAPEST ROUTE TO THE ^yEST, 
 The advantages presented by (,2ucl.)ec as a point of debarcation for emigrants intending 
 to proceed to the Great Lakes, are so great, they require only to be generally known to 
 induce all emigrants desirous of settling in tlie vicinity of the lakes, to prefei" landing at 
 Quebec, rather than at Nevy York, or any other port in the United States. The dis- 
 tances to the principal points where emigrants laud are as follow: Toronto, 550 miles; 
 Buffalo, G20 miles ; Detroit, 900 miles ; and Chicago, 1,100 miles All emigrants for the 
 lakes, vv'hether landed at New York or Quebec, generally arrive at Butiiilo if going 
 farther up. The distance from New York to Buffalo is very much greater than from 
 Quebec to Buffalo, and the means of conveyance inferior and more expensive. Trio 
 route from Quebec is to Lewiston by steamer, and thence to Buffalo by railroad ; from 
 Buffalo again to Detroit by steamer, and thence to Chicago by railway, or by steamer 
 through Lakes Huron and JMichigan. The distance between the two latter points by 
 steamer is greater than by rail ; the expense is about the same. There are several com- 
 peting lines of steamers plying between the various points on this route, and, conse- 
 quently, the fares are always kept down to the lowest possible figm'e. Passengers 
 availing themselves of those modes of communication can be landed at Oswego, 
 liochester, or any of the ports on Lakes Ontario, Erie, Hm-on, or IMichigan. The fares 
 from Quebec upwards are, to Toronto, 17s. Gd. ; to Buftalo, 25s. ; to Detroit, 32s. 6d. ; and 
 to Chicago, 85s. A great deal, however, depends upon the competition between the 
 rival lines of steamers, and v.'hen this competition is active the fare to Toronto, Hamilton, 
 and ports on Lake Ontario, will vary from 4s. to 12s., and the fare to Buffalo from 15s. 
 to 20s. Each emigrant is allowed 112 lbs. of luggage, Ijut a very much larger quantity 
 is not objected to. When a cliarge is made for extra luggage, (although it has not been 
 exacted for some years,) it ranges from Is. to Is. Gd. per cwt. In addition to the usual 
 lines of steamers plying on this route, there are often large and commodious steamers 
 going directly through the Welland Canal to Cleveland, Detroit, and other parts of Lake 
 Erie ; and emigrants ai-e taken without transhipment to their places of destination on 
 I.,ake Erie, Avithout touching at Buftalo. When there is a suflicieut number of emigrants 
 tliey can always hire a steamer at a cheap rate, and save one-half the amomit tb.eir 
 passages will cost via Buftalo. All the steamers plying on this route are covered by a 
 promenade deck, extending from stem to stern, and boardetl up on the sides, so that the 
 passengers are completely protected from the weather. They are fme first-class vessels, 
 ranging from 150 to 300 tons burthen, propelled by low-pressure engines, at a rate vary- 
 ing from 8 to 15 miles per hoiu-, making the passage to Toronto, Hamilton, and Buffalo, 
 always under four days, including all stoppages. On the other hand, the route from 
 New York to Buftalo is to Albany and Troy by steam, and at the latter place the emi- 
 grants are shifted into small canal boats, drawn by horses tlirough a narrow, dirty canal, 
 upwards of 400 miles, to Buftalo, exposed to the weather, or confined below deck in a 
 small place almost suff'ocating in hot weather. It is true the emigrants may proceed, on 
 arrival at New York, by rail to Buffalo ; but this is very expensive, and seldom resorted 
 to. The time occupied in transporting emigrants from New York to Buffalo, by steamer 
 and canal-boat, occupies from six to eight days; four days more are occupied to Chicago : 
 in all, ten or twelve days. The fare is 40s., and 5s. for extra luggage over 100 lbs. 
 Passengers by this route are frequently imposed upon by purchasing tickets from un- 
 authorised agents, which, consequently, turn out worthless. This system of imposition is 
 never known in Canada. Tlie head of an eminent mercantile firm, well acquainted with 
 both routes, thus ■\\Tites : " It appears to us tlie route from Quebec, via Montreal to 
 Buffalo, tlie point v.diere emigrants fi-om New York meet tliose by the river route, is far 
 preferable. The emigrant is placed at Quebec on board fine, large, covered steamers, 
 travelling 15 miles per hour, and at llontreal the change is made into eqiuilly comfort- 
 able boats, and he tiien proceeds up the St. Lawrence and the lakes, (whose waters are 
 pure and the air liracing,) to the place of destination in three or four dai/s. There is 
 a government emigration agent at Quebec always ready to g-ive information, and who 
 docs his best to get the emigrants on quickly, comfortably, and cheaply." There is a 
 daily communication between (.Quebec and Montreal, and no less than from foiu- to six 
 steamers leave Montreal daily for Toronto and the ports on tlie lalccs, so that no delay 
 can possibly occur to an emigrant by tlie St. Lawrence and lake route. 
 
 The Canadian Steam Navigation Company's lii-st-elass Steamships sail twice a month 
 from LiVEurooT. to Qukbec during Summci-, and once a month during AVintcr, from 
 Liverpool to Poiitland, which is connected bv Railwav with Canada. For fuither 
 information, times of sailin;;-, .tc, apply to PATRICK HENDERSON k CO., Glasgow; 
 to LAMONT and Mc LART T, 2, Driiry Lan^^, Water Street, Liverpool ; or to 
 
 . ^ Secretary to the Company, Royal 
 '?) Insurance Buildiiii:--. Liverpool.
 
 STANDARD WORK ON CANADA, 
 
 500 pages, small Svo, with Coloured Map, Price 4^. 6d., 
 
 VIEWS OF CANADA AND THE COLONISTS. 
 
 EMBKACING THE EXPERIENCE OF AN EIGHT YEARS' RESIDENCE; VIEWS OF THE 
 PRESENT STATE, PROGRESS, AiiT> PROSPECTS OF THE COLONY. 
 
 By J. B. BROWN. 
 
 *' TiiE stores of a coniprelionsive, precise, find varied observation, extending 
 over the entire country, placed before us in such a manner as to rank the pro- 
 duction as a standard work upon the colony." — Montreal Gazette, May 13. 
 
 '• We do not remember having read a book where a country is so clearly 
 and graphically placed before us, and where an acute and intelligent judgment 
 presides so invariably over every statement and opinion." — Freeman's Journal, 
 December 1. 
 
 " It leaves all the eai'lier standard works upon Canada far behind : and we 
 know of none of modern date that at all approaches it." — Saunders's Neics 
 Letter, December 16. 
 
 A. & C. Black, Edinburgh. Longman & Co., London, J. M'GrLASH.'uy, Dublin. 
 Thos. Murray & Son, Glasgow. 
 
 Multre terricolis liugu£8, coelestibus una. 
 SAMUEL BAGSTER and SONS' General Catalogue is sent 
 free by post. It contains Lists of Quarto Family Bibles ; 
 Ancient English Translations ; Manuscript-notes Bibles ; Polyglot 
 Bibles in every variety of size and combination of language; 
 Parallel-passages Bibles ; Greek critical and other Testaments ; Polyglot 
 Books of Common Prayer; Psalms in Englisli, Hebrew, and many other 
 languages, in great variety ; Aids to the Study of the Old Testament and of 
 the New Testament; Miscellaneous Biblical and other Works. By post free. 
 London : Samuel Bagster and Sons, 15, Paternoster Row. 
 IToXXat ixii' BvijToiQ TXwrrai, yiia S'AOavaroicnv. 
 
 TO BOOK BUYERS. 
 
 JUST PUBLISHED, GRATIS, A CATALOGUE OF SECOND-HAND BOOKS 
 
 In the various Classes of Englisli Literature, (including numerous choice 
 Illustrated Works), in excellent condition, and at very low prices, by W. J. 
 CRAWFORD, (successor to the late J. Dowding,) 82, New.fate-street, London. 
 
 Now read)/, price Sixpence, in Illustrated Wrapper, (containing Nos. I to 10, 
 
 SO pp. 4to., with nuvierous Engravings,') Part 1 of 
 PICTORIAL PAGES .—Edited liy the Rev. H. Townley. 
 The Number for May, price One Half-penny, contains, among other En- 
 gravings, — The Porcelain Tov, er at Nankin ; Ancient Ships ; and the Harpy 
 Eagle. " I congratulate you on having materially assisted the pi'omotere of a 
 sound, pure, and cheap serial literature, by the publication of ' Pictorial Pages.' 
 From its cheapness .and excellent matter, it only requires to be kno^^m by the 
 public to insure its success.," — G. H. H. Oliphant, Esq., Barrister, Honorary 
 Secretary to the Society for tlie Diffusion of Pure Literature among the People. 
 London: Partridge, Oak ey, and Co., 34, Paternoster-row. Sold by H. 
 Wooldridge, 82, Strand ; the Sunday-school Union ; and may be ordered 
 throu.n:h nil Booksellers.
 
 THE ':^W#^^^^ERA. 
 
 Established 1837. 
 
 THE ERA is a Newspaper of tlie largest size, containing Sixty-Four Columns of 
 closely-printed matter. It is the only Weekly Newspaper combining all the advantages 
 of a first-rate Sporting Journal with those of a Family Newspaper. Every department 
 is conducted with spirit. 
 
 1. — The Political and Original Articles contained in the Era have secured for it the 
 highest celebrity. 
 
 2.— In the Departments of Literature and the Fine Arts, it has obtained the greatest 
 pre-eminence. 
 
 3. — The Metropolitan and Provincial Drama has more space allotted to it in the Era 
 than in any other Journal. 
 
 4. — The Operatic and Musical Intelligence, Home and Continental, is always most 
 copious and interesting. 
 
 5. — Freemasons, Foresters, and Odd Fellows will find in the Era a record of their 
 transactions. 
 
 The First Edition of the Era is published on Saturday morning, at 5 o'clock, in time 
 forall the early railway trains ; the Second Edition, mid-day Saturday ; and the Town 
 Edition, containing news up to Saturday night, is ready at 5 o'clock on "Sunday morning 
 
 BY GIFTS. 
 
 The Proprietors of the Era have determined upon adopting a new and more striking 
 mode of acknowledging the extensive and unprecedented support with which they have 
 been honoured, and thej' believe the following scheme will be highly satisfactory to the 
 Public, both from its greater simplicity, and the additional advantages which it offers. 
 
 The Era Gifts will in future be combined so as to constitute 
 
 ONE MONSTER DISTRIBUTION, 
 
 and instead of being contingent on the number of subscribers received, it will be made 
 certain for the amount herestated. 
 
 In future, on the Payment of 26s., Parties will be supplied with the Era Newspaper 
 for One Year from the date of subscription, for which a receipt will be given, specifying 
 the Number of their Chance in the ERA DERBY GIFTS of 1855, which will posi- 
 tively be distributed according to the following scale, and quite independent of the Num- 
 ber of Subscribers received : — 
 
 First Horse . . £100 | Third- Horse .... £20 
 Second Horse . £30 | Every other starter £5 each. 
 
 £2,000 HAVE ALREADY BEEN GIVEN AWAY! 
 
 Particulars of which can he seen at the ERA Office. 
 
 J^- All Post-Office Orders to be made payalle to Messrs. William Willoti 
 and Frederick Ledger, Era Office, 3, Catherine Street, Strand London.
 
 NEW WEEKLY PERIODICAL: 
 
 PRICE ONE PENNY. 
 
 Sixteen Pages, Super-royal Octavo, with Superior Eng-raviugs. 
 
 OR IN MONTHLY PARTS, FIVEPENCE. 
 
 Noiv Publishing, the 
 
 SUNDAY AT HOME: 
 
 A FAMILY MAGAZINE FOR SABBATH READING. 
 
 The contents of the " The Sunday at Home" will be of a varied 
 and comprehensive character, embracing — choice Biography; 
 striking Incidents in Church History ; the Evidences of Religion, 
 natural and revealed ; the Progress and Achievements of Christian 
 Missions; Sacred Philosophy, and the Natural History of the 
 Bible ; the Origin, History, and Effects of Remarkable Religious 
 Books ; Pictures of Romanism ; Papers on Doctrinal and Practical 
 Rehgion; short Expositions and Illustrations of Scripture; In- 
 structive Scenes from the Life of Our Saviour ; useful Anecdotes ; 
 Rehgious Literature, old and new ; Sacred Poetry, etc., etc. A 
 distinct department of the work will be specially appropriated to 
 the wants of the younger branches of the family. 
 
 PUBLISHED WEEKLY, 
 
 THE LEISURE HOUR. 
 
 PRICE ONE PENNY. 
 MONTHLY PARTS, FIVEPENCE. 
 
 boHr Sm an SSaniijgcIItr^ znQ ^crtalitcal Scaler^. 
 
 LONDON: THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY-56, PATERNOSTER ROW 
 Gj, ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD AND 164 :PICCADILLY.
 
 LiST^LULl:::>iiiJD 
 
 'EJSTY 11^ Ale: 
 
 THE MINING JOURNAL, 
 
 RAILWAY AND COMIVIERCIAL GAZETTE, 
 A WEEKLY NEWSPAPER, 
 
 Forming a Complete History of the Commercial and Scientific Progress of 
 MIXES AND RAILWAYS, 
 
 And a carefully collated Synopsis, with numerous Illustrations, of all Neic 
 Inventions and Improvements in 
 
 MECHANICS AND CIVIL ENGINEERING. 
 
 THE COMMERCIAL NEWSPAPER PRESS. 
 The publication by Government of the number of stamps issued to the respective News- 
 papers affords a fitting opportunity to acknowledge the very ample patronage we have 
 received for our endeavours to make the Mining Journal worthy of public support. 
 
 The steady progress Ln Circulation is the best evidence of appreciation; while the con- 
 siderable increase of our Correspondents, in all parts of the world, shows that the interest 
 in the objects to which the Mining Journal, Railway and Commercial Gazette, is more 
 particularly devoted is not confined to this country ; and the repeated assurances of 
 approval we receive, lead to the fair expectation that, as the same spirited and indepen- 
 dent system of management is pursued, we may well relj- on a continuous increase of our 
 supporters and circulation. 
 
 The follovdng list will show that the number published of the Mining Jo-jrnal sui-- 
 
 passes that of the enth-e Railway press :— 
 
 Newspapers. 
 MliSiING JOURNAL ... 
 
 Railway Times 
 
 Herapath's Journal 
 
 Railway Record 
 
 Railway Gazette 
 
 MINING JOURNAL ... 
 
 The other Commercial Newspapers may be thus classed,— also showing the cnculation 
 of the Mining Journal to be considerably more than all of them put together : — 
 
 Newspapers. 1851. 1852. 1853. 
 
 London Commercial Record 36,300 ... 35,600 ... 41,250 
 
 1851. 
 
 1852. 
 
 1853. 
 
 118,7.50 . 
 
 . 147,000 
 
 .. 200,032 
 
 86,530 . 
 
 . 81,000 
 
 .. 88,300 
 
 119,100 . 
 
 . 121,004 
 
 .. 82,152 
 
 28,350 . 
 
 . 25,500 
 
 .. 19,475 
 
 7,000 . 
 
 7,500 
 
 4,500 
 
 241,880 
 
 235,004 
 
 194,427 
 
 118,750 . 
 
 . 147,000 
 
 .. 200,032 
 
 The Reporter 
 
 Journ;U of Commerce 
 
 London Mercantile Journal 
 The Merchant 
 
 24,881 
 2.3,000 
 17.500 
 23,000 
 
 12,075 
 21,000 
 19,300 
 18,000 
 
 32,550 
 27,500 
 15,500 
 14,000 
 
 124,688 105,975 130,800 
 
 MINING JOURNAL I]8.7.'i0 ... 147,000 ... 200,032 
 
 OFFICE: 26, FLEET STREET, LONDON. 
 
 Published every Saturday, price Sixpence, to be had of all Booksellers and 
 Newsmen in Town and Country.
 
 THE WEEKLY TELEGRAPH, 
 
 EDITED BY WM. BERNARD MAC CABE, ESQ., 
 
 Author of "A Catholic History of England." 
 According to the Parliamentary Paper (Session 1854, No. 238), g'iving 
 an official return of the Stamps issued to the various newspapers in Lon- 
 don, Edinburgh, and Dublin, it appears that 
 
 THE PAPER HAVING THE GREATEST CIRCULATION BEYOND 
 ALL OTHERS PUBLISHED IN IRELAND IS 
 
 THE WEEKLY TELEGRAPH. 
 
 The follomng is the return for the quarter, ending March, 1854, of tiie 
 Irish Weekly Journals having the largest circulation : — 
 
 Weekly Telegraph 255,500 
 
 General Advertiser 161,000 
 
 Weekly Freeman 84,000 
 
 Tablet 46,500 
 
 Nation 45,000 
 
 According to the above return the average Circulation of ea<:h number of 
 the above newspapers is as follows : 
 
 Weekly Telegraph 19,616 
 
 General Advertiser 12,384 
 
 Weekly Freeman 6,461 
 
 Tablet 3,577 
 
 Nation 3,461 
 
 Showing that each number of The Weekly Telegraph circulates 7,232 
 copies more than the General Advertiser ; 13,000 more than the Wcekhj 
 Freeman; and 16,000 more than either the Nation or the Tablet. 
 
 Orders for Advertisements to be addressed to the Publishing Offices, 
 7 AND 8, LOWER ABBEY-STREET, DUBLIN. 
 jsr- CHARGE FOR ADVERTISEMENTS-SIXPENCE PER LINE, 
 
 TO GENTLEMEN SEEKING APPOINTMENTS. 
 
 THE CIVIL SERVICE GAZETTE. 
 
 A first-class Official Newspaper, published every Saturday, price Sixpence, 
 specially devoted to the interests of all Government Offices in every depart- 
 ment of the State, both in England and the Colonies. This Journal contains 
 each week a List of all Vacancies and Appointments in the Treasury, Post- 
 Office, Admiralty, Audit Office, Royal Dockyards, War Office, Home and 
 Colonial Departments, Foreign Office, Customs, Coast Guard, and all other 
 Departments of the State, botli in England and the Colonies. The informa- 
 tion is official and authentic. The Civil Service Gazette is also a complete 
 Newspaper, with the usual Parliamentary, Legal, Home and Foreign News, 
 Literary Notices, and Theatrical Critiques. Its Ecclesiastical Intelligence 
 supplies a Tiist of Clerical Vacancies, with the name of the Patron and value 
 of each Li\ ing. It contains the usual Naval and Military Gazettes ; and in 
 the General News will be found an account of Vacancies in Railways and 
 Dockyards, and all the great Incorporated Companies. 
 
 To be had of all Booksellers and Newsvendcrs at the Railway Stations, ov 
 dii-ect from the Office, 67, STRAND, LONDON
 
 ILLUSTRATED AND OTHER WORKS 
 
 PUBLISnED BY 
 
 JOHN CASSELL, 
 
 LUDGATE HILL, LONDON: 
 
 The ALPS, SWITZERLAND, SAVOY, and LOMBARDY ; descriptive 
 
 of the peculiar Scenery of those most interesting portions of Europe, occupations of the 
 inhabitants, <fcc. ; G40 pages, and upwards of 300 ]>^ngravings. By the Kev. C. Williams. 
 12s. 6d. cloth ; gilt edges, 13s. 6d. 
 
 CASSELL'S NATURAL HISTORY, Vol. I., devoted to the Feathered 
 
 Tribes. 300 Engravings in first :;ytle of art. Imperial 8vo. 12s. 6d. cloth, or 13s. 6d. 
 ■»ilt edges. A splendid volume. 
 
 " ILLUSTRATED HISTORY OF HUNGARY and the MAGYARS, from 
 
 the earliest period to the close of the late war. 100 highly finished Engravings. Bv 
 E. L. Godkin. 5s. 6d. cloth. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED EXHIBITOR FOR 1851 : most complete Record pub- 
 lished of the Industrial Exhibition ; upwards of 1,000 Engravings. 7s. Gd. bound in 
 cloth ; gilt edges, 8s. 
 
 nXUSTRATED EXHIBITOR AND MAGAZINE OF ART, Vols. L 
 and II.; each containing upwards of 200 beautifully Engravings. 4s. 8d. each volume, 
 stiff-paper covers; 6s. 6d. handsomely bound; or 7s. 6d. elegant gilt edges. — Also, in 
 One large, thick, splendid volume, the 2 vols, of above Work bound together, upwards 
 of 820 pages, and more than 400 choice illustrations, 12s. elegantty boimd, with gUt 
 edges. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINE OF ART, Vol. I. ; 450 pages, and up- 
 wards of 320 engravings. 8s. 6d. elegantly boimd, with gilt edges. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINE OF ART, and WORKS OF EMINT^NT 
 MASTERS, Vol. 11.; above 440 Pages, and 300 engravings; 8s. (id. elegantly bound; 
 gilt edges, 9s. 
 
 CASSELL'S FRENCH DICTIONARY. In 2 Parts;— 1. French and 
 English ; 2. English and French. The French carefullj- edited by Professor De Lolme, 
 the English by Professor Wallace and H. Bridgeman, Esq. One large handsome Svo. 
 volume, 9s. 6cl. strongly bound. 
 
 CASSELL'S LESSONS IN FRENCH. Parts I. and II. Bj Professor 
 Fasquelle. 2s. each in paper covers, or 2s. 6cL bomid in cloth. — The Two Parts bound in 
 1 vol. 4s. Gd. 
 
 KEY TO CASSELL'S LESSONS IN FRENCH; containing Trans- 
 lations of all the Exercises. Is. paper covers, or Is. Gd. cloth. 
 
 COMPLETE MANUAL OF THE FRENCH LANGUAGE. By Pro- 
 fessor De Lolme. 3s. neatly bound- 
 
 A SERIES OF LESSONS IN FRENCH, on an entirely Novel and 
 Simple Plan Reprinted in a revised form from "The Working Man's Friend." Gd. ; 
 b}' post, 7d. Nearly 30,000 copies of this work have been sold. 
 
 CASSELL'S GERMAN PRONOUNCING DICTIONARY. In Two 
 Parts: — 1. German and English ; 2. English and German. In numbers, 3d. each; and 
 parts. Is. The German-English Division is now ready, os. in paper covers, or 5s. 6d. 
 neat cloth. The complete Dictionary will be ready in a few weeks. 
 
 CASSELL'S LESSONS IN GERMAN. Parts I. and H. 2s. each, in 
 paper covers, or 2s. 6d. cloth. The two parts boimd together, 4s. 6d. A Key to the 
 above Lessons is in the Press. 
 
 CASSELL'S ECLECTIC GERMAN READER; containing Choice Se- 
 lections from the best German Authors, in prose aua verse. 2s. paper covers, or 2s. 6d. 
 cloth. 
 
 CASSELL'S LESSONS IN ENGLISH; containing a Practical Gram- 
 mar, adaptexl for the use of the Self-Educating Student. By J. R. Beard, D.D. Price 
 3s. paper covers, or 3s. 6cL cloth boards.
 
 THE SEAT OF WAR IN THE EAST. 
 
 Just Published, price One Shilling each, 
 
 PH ILIPS' 
 
 iVIAP OF THE FRONTIER PROVINCES OF TURKEY, RUSSIA 
 AND AUSTRIA, THE BLACK SEA, ETC. 
 
 A New Edition, with a Detailed Map of the River Danube showing the Fortified Towns 
 &.C., along its course. 
 
 PHILIPS' CHART OF THE NORTH AND BALTIC SEAS, 
 
 "With Plans of the Harbours of St. Petersburgh, Kevel, &c. 
 
 PHILIPS' CHART OF THE MEDITERRANEAN, 
 
 With detailed Plans of the Bays of Gibraltar, Genoa, Marseilles, &c. 
 
 The fuV owing new Maps^, on sheet, coloured, price Is. each, maij ako be had: — 
 
 TURKEY IN EUROPE. I RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 
 TURKEY IN ASIA. I RUSSIAN EMPIRE. 
 
 Also just published, price 17. Is in case ; 11. 5s. mounted on black rollers and varnished; 
 or 1/. 10s. on mahogany rollers. Size — 48 inches by 49 inches. 
 
 PHILIPS' NEW MAP OF EUROPE, 
 
 In Four Sheets, constructed from the best authorities, and having every Place of Interest 
 
 in Russia and Turkey accurately laid down ; sliowing the Railways in Great 
 
 Britain and on the Continent, kc. 
 
 PHILIPS' MAPS FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 Just Published, Mounted in Case for the Pocket, price 3s. Gd. 
 
 PHILIPS' TRAVELLING MAP OF ENGLAND AND WALES, 
 
 Shewing the Lines of Railway, with all the Stations accurately laid down, the Tracks 
 
 of Steam-vessels, with Distances from Port to Port, <i'c., &c. 
 
 SIZE OF THE MAP 33 BY 26 INCHES. 
 
 Uniform in size and price with the above, 
 
 PHILIPS' TRAVELLING MAP OF SCOTLAND, 
 
 With Distances fromEdini)urgh, and from Port to Port, having the whole of the EaU- 
 
 ■Nvays accurateh- laid down, sliewing also the Post Roads, Canals, Navigable Rivers, &c» 
 
 Also, uniform in size and price, 
 
 PHILIPS' TRAVELLING IVIAP OF IRELAND, 
 
 Constructed from the best and most recent authorities, shewing the Lines of Railway, 
 with all the Stations, accurately laid down, the Distances from Dublin, and from Port to 
 Port, tracing the Tracks of Steam-vessels to the principal Ports of England and Scot- 
 land, &c., &c. 
 
 These Maps will be found well adapted for the use of Tourists; they are on a large 
 scale— every place of interest being clearly laid down — while, at the same time, they are 
 ■done up in a convenient and portable size suitable for travelling. 
 
 Just published, in Crown 8vo., Fancy Boards, price 2s. Gd. 
 
 OUR GOLD COLONIES; 
 
 A Manual of the progress of Gold Digging, Cattle-Rearing, Corn-Growing, Sheep- 
 Breeding, and Mining in the three chief provinces of Australia. With an authenticated 
 Map of Australia, and intelligence from New South Wales, South Australia, and Vic- 
 toria, to l;-JC'6u:ber, 1853. 
 
 BY JOHN CAPPER, F.R.A.S. 
 
 Published by GEORGE PHILIPS & SON, South Castle Street, Liverpool. 
 
 LONDON : WILLIAM ALLAN, Pateruoster Row. 
 Edinburgh: OLIVER AND BOYD. Dublin: WM. ROBERTSON; and all 
 
 Booksellers.
 
 DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO SIR E. BULWER LYTTON, BART. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH ORIGINAL DESIGNS ON -WOOD, 
 
 By ALFEED CEOWaUILL, and KEN15TY MEADOWS. 
 
 Third Edition, now ready, -with additions, pp. 200, price 5s. cloth lettered, and 
 Ss. 6d. morocco elegant. 
 
 A LITTLE EARMST BOOK 
 
 CHAPTERS UPON POETRY AND POETS, WITH THE STORY^ 
 OF THE POET LOYER. 
 
 AUTHOR OP "a house FOR SHAK.SPEARE," kc. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 " He ha? written a delightful little book." — Morning Post. 
 
 "The manner in which he b.as treated his subject is an evidence that he is an original 
 thinker." — Bell's Weekly Messenger. 
 
 " This is an earnest little book, b)' one of the most earnest and thoughtful of the wor- 
 shippers of genius and poetry." — \Veekly Ckronicle. 
 
 " The whole book is pervaded with the tone of the truest poetry." — Literary Gazette. 
 
 " He has shown that there is in him such stuff as poets are made of." — Art Journal. 
 
 " He is a courageous thinker." — Illustr.ateu London News. 
 
 " We do not compliment Mr. Wilson when we say that there are many things in this little 
 book of which Sir Edward Bulvrer Lytton might himself be proud." — Miuror of the Time. 
 
 " We have to thank this critic for a suggestive book, calculated to elicit the softer, gentler, 
 purer fpclings of our nature." — Morning Advertiser. 
 
 '' A picture of quiet repose and beauty Mr. Wilson draws for us, with a skill and simplicity 
 of touch worthy of a great artist." — Critic. 
 
 " This book discourses poetry and poets with all the freshness of youthful enthusiasm, and 
 all the sagacity of matured esperience. The writer has poured out fresh thought from the 
 exhaustless fountain of the heart ; and tliis, no doubt, is the secret of his success. Many 
 lyrics stud its pages ; but, even without them, we can see that Mr. Wilson is himself a poet." 
 —Observer. 
 
 " The apostrophes to nature and art are eloquent and sincere — the sense of the beautiful 
 keen and passionate." — Morning Herald. 
 
 " We look to this author, as one certain to win for himself a high place- in the republi:- of 
 letters." — Belle Assemblee. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 D ASTON AND CO., PUBLISHERS, HOLBORN HILL. EDINBURGH. 
 MESSRS. A. AND C. BLACK. DUBLIN : MR. JAMES McGLASHAN.
 
 A CATHOLIC HISTORY OP 
 ENGLAND, 
 
 (the axglo-saxox teriod), 
 COMPLETE IN THREE VOLUMES. 
 
 This day is published, Price ISs., tlie Third and Concluding Volume of 
 A CATHGIIG ICSTOEY OF ENGLAITB. 
 
 Wc have already, on occasion of the publication of cacli of the earlier instalments of 
 the work, expressed, in common with almost every one of our contemporaries, the most. 
 ■unreserved approval of the first and second volume of this most interesting history. . 
 How admirably IMr. IMacCabe is qualitied for this task no Catholic of these realms need 
 be informed by lis. If he had undertaken the task for himself and from his own indi- 
 vidual resources, there are few who could have hoped to execute it more worthily. But. 
 Mr. MacCabe, as the readers of his former volumes will remember, has done better tharc 
 this. He has told the story of those simple Catholic times, not in his own language, but 
 in that of their own contemporary annalists ; and he has done this so admirably, th:it,, 
 while his Avork retahis the simple spirit of the old chroniclers in all its purity, its diction: 
 is yet so easy, and its method so judicious, as to produce all the eftect of an original 
 history. In this and every other respect, the third volume well sustains the reputation 
 of its predecessors. We commend it heartily, therefore, to all Catholic students of 
 English history. It treats the Anglo-Saxon period under a phase quite difl'erent fron^ 
 that in which it is viewed by Lingard in his Anglo-Saxon Antiquities. Lingard 
 describes the doctrine and doctrinal practice of the age; the Catholic History tells the 
 story of its inner life. Each, therefore, may be regarded as the complement of the other. 
 Both are indispensable to every English historical collection. — Dublin Review. 
 
 The volumes bear evidence in eveiy page that they are, as the author describes them, 
 " the results of the writing and research of jnany hours — the only hours for many years 
 that I had to spare from other and harder toils." Himself a zealous and sincere follovter 
 of the "ancient faith," I\Ir. IMacCabe's views of the characters and events of v.-hich he i!> 
 treating, naturally assume the coloiu-ing of his own mind : many, therefore, will dissent 
 from them. Xone of his readers will, however, dissent from bestowing ujion his work 
 the praise of being carefully compiled and most originally written. None will deny the 
 charm vnih Avhich Mr. MacCabe has invested his " History," by his achnirabie mode of 
 making the old monkish writers tell their own story. — Notes and Ciueries (Jlay 27, 1854.) 
 
 Jlr. MacCabe's mode of composition is as novel as his plan. Sacrificing ordinary 
 literary pride, he makes the old monkish writers compose the narrative, his ingenuity 
 being displayed in the skill witli which the passages translated directly from the original^ 
 with all their natural vigour of language, are connected so as to produce an appearance, 
 of oneness of design and continuity. He then fuses into one whole centuries of obser- 
 vation and narrative, and in fact revives those dead monks and Scribes till they 
 write his book. The plan is not only new, but it was in many respects necessary,. 
 as the reader Avill iind, if he compare tlie garbled and inaccurate versions given by 
 Hume, and some other writers, with the original statements of the same events incor- 
 porated in these pages. He Avill also be better aljle to understand, Avhen this universality 
 of authorities is explained, why the book should be called a ' Catholic History.' The-, 
 M'ork is of great literary \-a.\u.e.— Times. 
 
 A better book; a more valuable contribution to historical literature; a more honourable 
 tribute to truth, lias never been presented to the reading -puhlic— Observer. 
 
 The learning exhibited is most multifarious. — Oxford Herald. 
 
 It is full of facts and incidents of the highest interest, and v.-hich, to the generalitj'' of 
 readers, are entirely unknown. All praise and honour are due to Jlr. MacCabe for his- 
 novel and valuable work. — Dolman's Magazine. 
 
 It is a most valuable and most extraoi'dinary work.—.Vieio Quarfei-li/ Review. 
 
 It is a book that men of all denominations will take an interest in.— Bell's Messenger.
 
 In foolscap Svo, boards, price 23., a New Editiou of 
 
 HE WOULD BE A GENTLEiVlAN; 
 
 or, Treasure Trove. A Romance. 
 
 By SAMUEL LOVER, 
 
 Author of "Rory O'More," &c., &e. 
 
 Lo>T)ox: DAV^D BRYCE, 48, Paternoster-Row. 
 
 " CANADA: 
 
 ITS PRESENT COf^DlTlON, PROSPECTS, AND RESOURCES, 
 
 ^ully described for the information of intending Emigrants, 
 By WILLIAM HUTTON, 
 
 A resident Agriculturist in that Colony for the last 20 years. Now ReadYj 
 Price Is. ; per post Is. 6d. 
 
 London: Edward Stanford, Colonial Bookseller, 6, Charing' Cross, who -will 
 forward his Catalogue of Works on Emigration, on application, enclosing one 
 stamp. 
 
 BROWN & THOMAS, 
 
 GENEEAL DRAPERY ESTABLISHMEOT, 
 
 16, & 17, Grafton Street, 
 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 I R lTT~P P L I Ys 
 
 OF THE RICHEST QUALITY, 
 
 3 S 
 
 WATERED 84 to — i^ dress of 13 yards. 
 
 CORDED DOUBLE 80 — 
 
 CORDED DEMY OS — „ 
 
 PLAIDS G8 — „ 
 
 PLAINS 50 58 „ 
 
 PIGURES 60 90 
 
 WAISTCOATS 7 21 ea<jh 
 
 TIES AND SCARFS 1 5 
 
 KEELY AND LEECH, 
 
 108, GRAFTON STREET, OPPOSITE NASSAU STREET, 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 PATTERNS FORWARDED PER POST. 
 
 A Single Dress sent Carriage Free to any part of the 
 United Kingdom.
 
 tc^S3 
 
 '■His Excellency the Earl of St. Germains has been pleased to appoint Messrs, 
 Waterhouse and Co. to he Jewellers to His Excellency. 
 ^^ Dated this IMh day of March, 1853, hy His Excellency's command. 
 
 " G. Bagot, Comptroller." 
 
 TO PURCHASERS OF JEWELLERY. 
 
 We are anxious to make it generally known that we have Experienced Work- 
 men employed on our Premises manufacturing the 
 
 BEST DESCEIPTION OF JEWELLERY. 
 
 By procuring the newest Designs in Paris and London firom the most celebrated 
 manufactures, and then reproducing them here, we are enabled, fii-st, to ensure 
 
 im 
 
 ^LTY AS DT Di 
 
 and, secondly, to offer the Articles at such Prices that must give general satisfac- 
 tion, as we avoid all Profits from the IManufactm-er to the Purchaser. 
 
 The ordinary mode by which Shopkeepers supply themselves with Stock is to 
 pm-chase from Factors (dealers in Jewellery), who buy from the Makers, whilst we 
 manufactui'e ourselves. 
 
 On our Gold Chains we mark the weight of Gold and its value, so that any Pur- 
 chaser can ascertain the price charged for the workmanship. 
 
 The Gold used in manufactm'ing Jewellery varies in value from 40s. per omice 
 to £3 17s. lO^d. per ounce, which is the standard price, so that the character of the 
 Seller is, after all, the safest criterion to the Public. 
 
 WATERHOUSE & Co., 
 
 THE QUEEN'S GOLD AND SILVER SMITHS, 
 
 25, Dame Street, Dublin.
 
 RUPTURES.—BY ROYAL LETTERS PATENT. 
 
 THE MOC-MAIN LEVER TRUSS is allowed, by upwards of 200 Jledical Gentlemen, 
 " to be tbe most effective invention in the curative treatment of Hernia. 
 
 The use of a steel spring, so often liurlful in its effects, is here avoided ; a 
 soft bandage being worn round the body, while the requisite resisting power 
 is supplied by the Moc-:maix Pad and Patent Lkvek, fitting with so 
 much ease and closeness that it cannot be detected, and may be worn dur- 
 ing sleep. A descriptive circular may be had, and the Truss (which cannot 
 |s fail to tit) forwarded by post, on the circumference of the body two inches 
 below the hips being sent to the Manufacturer, Mr. Wiiite,228, Piccadillv, 
 London. Price of a Single Truss, 21s., 2Gs. Gd., and 31s. Cd., Double, 423. 
 and 52s. Gd. ELASTIC STOCKINGS.— The material of which these are 
 made is recommended by the Faculty as being peculiarly Elastic and 
 CoJiPKESSiBLE, and the best invention for giving efficient'and permanent 
 support, in aU cases of Weakness and Swelling of the Leos, Varicose 
 Veins, Sprains, tfcc. It is porous, light in texture, and inexpensive, and is 
 'dra-wn on like an ordinary' stocking. Price from 7s. 6d. to iGs. 
 MANUFACTORY, 228, PICCADILLY, LOKDON. 
 
 RSfV3IVIEL'S TOILET VtNEGAR 
 
 (As exhibited in the Fountain at the Crystal Palace, at Sj-denham), is 
 far superior to Eau de Cologne as a Tonic and refreshing Lotion for the 
 Toilet or Bath ; a revi\nng Perfume, a pleasant Dentifrice, and a povrer- 
 ful Disinfectant for Apartments and Sick Rooms. Its numerous, use- 
 ful, and sanitary properties render it an indispensable requisite in all 
 families. N.B. — Be sure to ask for " Kuijiel's," as there are manj'- 
 spurious imitations.-Price 2s. 6d. and 5s. Rimjiel's Hair Dye imparts 
 instantaneously to the Hair, Whiskers, &c., a natural and permanent 
 Black or Brown shade. Price os. 6d., and 6s., including Brushes. 
 
 RiMMELS Hygienic Pomade, Hair Wash, Dentifrice, and Cosmetic 
 Lotion, are certified by Dr. t^re to consist of the purest and most inno- 
 cuous ingredients. Sold by all Perfumers and Chemists in the f nited 
 Kingdom, and by the Sole Proprietor, EUGENE RiMMEL, 
 39, GERRARD-STREET, SOHO, LONDOX. 
 
 BRITISH COLLEGE OF HEALTH, 
 
 NEW ROAD, LOjS^DOK 
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF JAJIES 3I0RIS0X, THE IIYGEIST, 
 with the reasons that led him to the discovery of the Hygeian System of Jledicine and 
 the Vegetable Universal Medicine (Morison's Pills), after" thirty-five years of inexpressible 
 suffering under the medical faculty : — " James Morison, the youngest son of Alexander 
 Morison, Esq., was born at Bogni'e, in the county of Aberdeen, in the year 1770. The 
 familv has been long known as one of great affluence and respectability, and the subject 
 of this brief sketcli was the second brother of John jMorison, late member for Banffshire. 
 In early life he studied at tiie University of Aberdeen, and afterwards at Hanau, in 
 Gennany, being intended for the mercantile profession. After finishmg his studies, he 
 resided at Riga as a merchant, and subsequently in the West Indies, where he acquii-ed 
 considerable West India property. Having suffered much from ill-health, he was obliged 
 to leave that country and proceed to Europe, seeking from change of clime a restoration 
 to health. We cannot do better than describe the following interesting particulars given 
 by himself in the Slorisoniana . — A thirty-five years' inexpressible suffering, both of body 
 and mind, is an event, too, which falls but to the lot of few, if of any at all. Had it 
 pleased God to have called me out of this world eight j'ears ago, I should have died as 
 another man, and been forgotten, and the world could have reaped no benefit from my 
 case and misfortunes, nor from the favourable effects produced by the some means on my 
 children. This is a guarantee to the world not often to be met with, and a convincing 
 proof of the motto prefixed to this advice, that ' health and old age are within the reach 
 of us all.'"' For the remainder of the biography see the abridged Morisoniana, price Gd., 
 to be had of all the agents for the sale of Morisons Pills. Family Motto, "Uno Ictu,'' 
 at one blow. Family Estate— Strawberry Vale, Finchley, Middlesex. 
 
 Agent for tlie sale of ilorisons'j Pills in Dublin, ]\Irs. Shaw, S, Bachelors Walk ; 
 Belfast, il. Phillips, Bookseller, Bridge-street : Cork, jNIessrs. Wood and Son, Hatters, 
 Patrick-street ; Kilkennv, Mr. Fogarty ; and by an Agent in everj- principal Tovrn. 
 See that the words " ]Morison's Universal iTodiciuc'' are on the Government Stamp.
 
 1 1;-' <^^V „: 
 
 BUTLER'S TASTELESS SEIDLITZ POWDER 9N ONE BOTTLE, 
 
 This useful aperient prep:iration, besides forming an equally efficient and far iiioi-c 
 ai^rceable Draught than that produced with the Conimou Seidlitz Powders, is made in 
 much less time, and witli intinitely less trouble. To allay Fever or Thirst, a teaspoonful, 
 in water, forms a most refreshing Saline Draught. Being enclosed in a bottle, it will re- 
 main uninjured by humidity during the longest sea voyage or land journey. 
 
 Sold at 2s. Gd. the bottle, which is enclosed in a case, (and accompanied by a measure 
 and spoon,) by the preparers, Butler and llartling, Chemists, 4, Clieapsidc, corner ol St. 
 Paul's, London ; Davenport & Co., 20, Waterloo-piacj, Edinburgli. 
 Be c;u-eful to order " Butler's" Tasteless Seidlitz Powder, and to observe the address . 
 
 BUTLER'S TARAXACUf^, OR DAMOELSOM COFFEE. 
 
 This truly wholesome and agreeable-flavoured beverage contains the "full medicinal 
 properties of the Dandelion, which are most skilfully and delicately preserved in this 
 preparation of the root of that vegetable." 
 
 The inventors think it would be superfluous in this address to say more than that the 
 jMedical Faculty have, for j^ears past, used and recommended this dietetic article for the 
 cure of affections of the Liver, Kidneys, and Digestive Organs ; the symptoms of whicli 
 are exhibited in forms more familiarly knovrn as Bile, Dyspepsia (or indigestion), Pul- 
 iiionary Consumption, Calculus Affections, Jaundice, Constipation of the Bowels (or 
 Habitual Costiveness), Cutaneous Affections (or Diseases of the Skin), Bilious Fevers, 
 Nervous Affections, Depression of Spirits, Loss of Appetite, Flatulency (or Debility of 
 tlie Stoniacli), together with other functional derangements. In promoting a healthy 
 .secretion of bile, &,c., it may be employed with great advantages. 
 
 Families and others will find this a most wholesome and agreeable beverage for daily 
 ii.se ; and one which, from its valuable detergent and purifying properties, cannot ulti- 
 mately fail to supply the place of the ordinary domestic beverages — tea and coffee. 
 
 Tills important invention has received the approbation and patronage of the most 
 eminent memljers of the Meiiical Profession, amongst whom, for example, the following 
 few may be mentioned, viz. : — Drs. Babingtonj Blundell, Brodie, Bryant, Conquest, Ounn, 
 Elliotson, Hall, Jephson, Johnson, Key, JIarsden, Morton, Pardee, Philip, Prout, Roberts, 
 lioots, Sigmond, Williams, Yeoman, <tc. 
 
 Sold in tin canisters, at 2s. 6d. and 4s. 6d. ; and may be had, with printed direction.';, 
 at most Druggists, Medicine Warehouses, and Tea Dealers ; or direct from 
 BUTLER & HARDING, 4, CHEAPSIDE, LONDON. 
 
 BUTLER'S T0US-LES-!VI0i8. 
 
 Long trial of the merits of this article (v.diich is prepared from the pith of the root of 
 the Canna Edulis and called Tons les Mois by the French, on account of the plant Hoover- 
 ing monthly), has fully established its superiority to Arrow Root, Sago, Tapioca, Rice, or 
 anv other amylaceous substance. These and most other dietetic articles are liable to 
 generate acid in the stomach, but it has been satisfactorily determined that this is not the 
 case with Tous-les-mois. It affords a light and nutritive diet for Iuvaiid.s, Infants, and 
 Children, and as such is sanctioned by Drs. Johnson, Ryan, and Waterson, and jnany 
 others of the medical faculty. 
 
 Imported and sold by Butler & IlARDiNCr, Chemists, No. 4, Clioapside, corner of St. 
 Paul's, London : and may be obtained of their agents throughout the Coimtry, and most 
 Druggists, Grocers, &c. — only in Is. 3d. and 2s. 6d. packets and 7s. Gd. tins. 
 
 j(i^ Ask for " Butler's" Tous-les-Mois, and observe the address. Attention to this 
 caution is necessr.ry, as Potato Flour is frequently sold for it, on account of its cheapness 
 and similarity of appearance, although, as regards nutritive quality, it is found to be far 
 inferior ; on this account also Tous-les-Mois should never be procured in a loose state. 
 
 The above may also be obtained of J. S.VNGiiii, 150, Oxford Street; and of most 
 Chemists and Druggists throughout the countrv. 
 
 BUTLER'S MEDICINE CHEST DIRECTORY. 
 
 Family, Sea, and Government Jledicine Chests fitted up with appropriate Medicines 
 and Directions for all climates.
 
 INDISPUTABLE LIFE=POLICY COMPY., 
 
 72, LOMBARD STREET, LOXDOX. 
 
 Trustees. —H'lchard Malins, Esq., Q.C., M.P. ; James Fuller Jladox, Esq.; John 
 Campbell Renton, Esq. ; Richard Spooner, Esq., 3I.P. ; "William ^^'ilberforce, Esq. 
 
 Directx)rs. — William Adams, Esq. ; John Atkins, Esq. ; H. A Bevan, Esq. ; Jolni 
 Dantjerfield, Esq. ; Robert H. Fornian, Esq. ; John Hamilton, Esq. ; J. Matthews, Esq. ; 
 Charles O. Parnell, Esq. ; W. Williams, Esq. 
 
 Auditors. — Henry Adron, Esq. ; Charles M'CuUoch, Esq. ; Ralph W. Bishop, Esq ; 
 Henry Burnett, Esq. 
 
 Solicitors. — ^lessrs. Atldns and Andrew. /Secretary.— David Alison, Esq. 
 
 PaddLngton Local Board, 24, Connaught-terrace, Edgeware-road. 
 
 The Rev. Jas. Shergold Boome, A.M.; Capt. Creed; Roger Gadsden, Esq. ; Jas. Ilar- 
 
 ruigton Lowther, Esa. ; Chas. Peniberton, Esq.-; G. Y. Robson, Esq.; 
 
 W. H. Trinder, Esq. 
 
 Secretary. — Charles Hoghton, Esq. 
 The Policies of this Companj-, being indisputable (in terms of the deed of constitution 
 duly registered), are transferable securities, their validity not being dependent, as in the 
 case of ordinary Policies, upon the import of past — and, perhaps, forgotten — circum- 
 stances, and office documents. Used as family provisions, they relieve the assured from 
 all doubt and anxiety as to the future. This is a purely Mutual Society, the profits 
 being di%-ided amongst the Assured themselves. The foUowing shows the large and 
 steadily progressive business the Company is now doing, and has done during the last 
 five years : — 
 
 Sums Assured. Xew Prem. 
 
 1851 ... £127,488 ... £4,438 
 
 1852 ... 115,11)5 ... 4,296 
 1853. Sums Assured, £123,093.— Xew Premiums, £4,5.32. 
 
 ALEXANDER ROBERTSOX, Manager. 
 
 Sums Assured. Xew Prcm. 
 
 1849 ... £1 8.647 ... £4.304 
 
 1850 ... 110,215 ... 3,794 
 
 RAILWAY LIFE ASSURANCE, BY OXE PAYMENT. 
 
 THE INDISPUTABLE LIFE-POLICY COIVIPANY 
 
 CTant Policies to Members of their own Companv, assuring against Death by Railwavs, 
 on Payment of OXLY OXE SUM OF FOUR SHILLIXGS PER CENT. Thus, a 
 person" aired 30, who has an ordinary- Assurance with the Company for £100, for which 
 he pays 2/. 4s. Ilc7. annually, may have a Railway Policy for £100 for one single 
 payment of 40s., payable in the event of his death by railway accident, and in addition to 
 the lOOi secured by the ortlinary Policv. 
 
 ■ ALEXAXDEE ROBERTSOX, Manager. 
 
 SELF-PROTECTIXG LIFE ASSURANCE. 
 
 THE INDISPUTABLE LIFE-POLICY COIVIPANY 
 
 have introduced a plan of Assurance, whereby the following important advantages are 
 secured by OXE POLICY;— 
 
 1. Thepajnnent of a principal sum to the Assured himself at a specified age. 
 
 2. An Annuitv to commence at that age. 
 
 3. Tlie payment of a principal sum in "the event of death, whenever that may happen. 
 
 4. The full benefit of all sums paid, although the Premiums should at any tune be 
 discontinued. 
 
 5. Relief from the payment of Premiums after a specified age. 
 
 G. Small periodical p"a\Tnents, so as to suit the convenience of the Assured. 
 
 The Premiums are made payable Quarterly, Half- Yearly, or Yearly; but by an arrange- 
 ment with an Agent acting for the Companv. thcv may be paid ^^ eekly or Monthly. 
 
 Allihese advantages are obtained by one Policy, and there is no sacrifice of any suni 
 that has been paid, "in case the party should not continue his payments. 
 
 •MEX\XT^EE ROBERTSOX, Manager.
 
 FUTVOYE AND COMPANY, 
 
 154, REGENT STREET, 
 
 CORNER OF BEAK STREET. 
 
 FUTVOYE'S WEDDING AND BIRTHDAY PRESENTS. 
 
 This Establishment is allowed to possess the largest and choicest variety of 
 English and Foreign Fancy Goods, both valuable and inexpensive, consisting 
 of Jewellery, Watches, Clocks, Bronzes, Dressing and Writing Cases, Fancy 
 Leather, Pearl, and Tortoise-shell Goods, Papier Mache, &c., many of which 
 are admirably adapfcd for presents ; and from the already well-known exten- 
 sive nature of Messrs. Futvoye's wholesale transactions apart from this estab- 
 lishment, they are enabled to supply the best workmanship, combined with 
 moderate charges, which it is scarcely necessary to state can only be effected 
 in such cases. Retail— 154, REGENT-STREET, corner of Beak-street. 
 Wliolesale and Export Warehouse — 28 and 29, Silver-street, and 34, Rue de 
 Rivoli, Paris. Illustrated catalogues sent free on application. 
 
 FUTVOYE'S EIGHT-DAY RCUMD BRASS DIALS, 
 
 WARRANTED ; 
 
 Also an immense variety of French Clocks, under shades, from £2 2s. each, 
 of the newest and most elegant designs. FUTVOYE and Co., 154, Regent- 
 street, corner of Beak-street, and 34, Rue de Rivoli, Paris. 
 
 FUTVOYE'S £3 3s. LADIES' ROSEWOOD DRESSING-CASES, 
 
 With Jewel Drawers and Solid Silver Top Bottles. An immense variety of 
 Writing and Dressing-Cases, Despatch-Boxes, Souffletes, Work Boxes, filled 
 Reticules, and every description of Fancy Cabinet and Leather Goods. 154, 
 REGENT-STREET, corner of Beak-street. Illustrated Catalogues sent on 
 application. 
 
 FUTVOYE'S <£4 4s. GOLD WATCHES, • 
 
 Four Holes Jewelled, Horizontal Escapement, Warranted. Silver Watches, 
 £2 10s. Solid Gold Chains, of their own manufacture, sold at per ounce, 
 and the fashion only charged. Every description of Jewellery taken in ex- 
 change or pm-chased for cash. 154, REGENT-STREET, corner of Beak 
 street. 
 
 FUTVOYE'S PAPIER MACHE ARTICLES 
 
 in every variety, consisting of Pole and Hand Screens, Chess and Work 
 Tables, Tea Trays and Caddies, Blotting and Cigar Cases, &c., &c. 
 
 Mr. Futvoyc, being the son of the original inventor of this work, is enabled 
 to produce specimens far surpassing those of any other Manufacturer. 
 
 AXL rESCIlIPTIONS OF JAPAN WOKE KEPAIRED EQUAL TO NEW,
 
 STEPHENS' IMPROVEMENTS IN INK 
 AND WRITING FLUIDS. 
 
 The annoyance of writing with Inks which would not flow from the 
 Steel Pen must be in the recollection of many persons. 
 
 THE BLUE BLACK WRITING FLUID 
 
 Was the iirst successful attempt to remedy this inconvenience, being 
 
 A PERFECT SOLUTION OF COLOR, 
 
 AND NOT A SUSPENSION BY MEANS OF GUM. 
 
 IT FLOWS FROM THE PEN AND COMBINES WITH 
 THE PAPER 
 
 In such a manner as to ensure ease and facility of wi'itmg with a more 
 perfect Color and Permanence, and is 
 
 ADMIRABLY ADAPTED FOR THE COPYING PRESS 
 
 Out of the numerous flattering Testimonials received by the Proprietor the 
 following is respectfully, and by permission, submitted to public notice : — 
 
 King's House Colombo, Cevlon. 
 Sir, 
 
 I beg to inform you that I took out with me in May, 1836, from England to 
 Ceylon, several Bottles of your " Blue Writing Fluid," and am bound in justice to 
 state, tliat the properties of the Ink, or Fluid, as set forth in your printed prospectuses 
 are, upon trial, fully borne out. I recommend it most strongly to all parties, be they 
 resident in a temperate or tropical comitry. This opinion is shared by all who have 
 used the Fluid in Ceylon. 
 
 I remain. Sir, your obedient Servant, 
 C. P. POWER. 
 Private Secretary to His Excellency, Sir Robert Wilmot Horton, Bart 
 
 To Mr. Stephens. 
 
 SOLD ALSO 
 
 STEPHENS' IMPROVED PARALLEL RULERS, 
 
 Which having the Rollers underneath a flat npper service, roll over the Paper without 
 coming in contact with the fingers, so that soiling them on the Paper is completely 
 prevented: also 
 
 STEPHENS' PATENT PROPELLING PENCILS, 
 
 In wood, lined throughout with lead, requiring no cuttuig : also 
 
 STEPHENS' PATENT POSTAGE & RECEIPT STAMP DAMPERS, 
 
 Which by a turn of the handle delivers the Stamp damped on both sides, ready for 
 application to the letter. 
 
 MANUFACTURED AND SOLD BY 
 
 HENRY STEPHENS, 
 52, Stamford- Street, Blackfriars-road London, 
 
 And Sold by Booksellers and Stationers.
 
 HAND-BOOK 
 
 GAL WAY, CONNEMARA 
 
 A^fD THE 
 
 IRISH HIGHLANDS. 
 
 PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED BY MAHONY. 
 
 PEICE HALF-A-CROWN 
 
 LONDON: D. BRYCE, PATERNOSTER ROW; 
 DUBLIN: JAS. M'GLASHAN, SACKVILLE STREET, 
 
 1864.
 
 CHARLES & GEOEGE MEARS, 
 BELL FOUNDERS 
 
 TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN, II.U.II. PRINCE ALBERT, THE HONOURABLE BOARD 
 OF ORDNANCE, THE HONOURABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY, ETC. ETC. ETC., 
 
 267, Whitecliapel Road, London. 
 
 ESTABLISHED THREE HUNDRED YEARS, 
 
 FOUNDERS OF 
 
 The Great Belt, of Montreal AYeight, 13 Tons 10 Cwt. 
 
 The Great Pe^eb of York... „ 11 Tons. 
 
 The Great Tom of Lincoln „ 5 Tons 8 Cwt. 
 
 St. Dunst.vn of Canterbury „ 3 Tons 10 Cwt. 
 
 Hour and Quarter Bells for the Clock Tower of Osborne House, for 
 H.Il.H. PRINCE ALBERT. 
 
 EXTRACT FROM THE "BUILDER" OF JANUARY 31, 1852. 
 
 ' Amongst tlie Larfcest bells of the present time is the great bell of Montreal, which 
 was east iii 1847, by Messrs. Mears, of ^^ hitechapel. This is 8 ft. 7 in. in diameter at the 
 mouth, 8 ft. 1 in. high^ to the top of the crown, and weighs 30,SOU lbs. Thi;* same firm 
 cast "Great Peter of York," wliich weiglis 2G,800 lbs.; also the new "Tom of Lincoln," 
 and such a startling list of ordinarj^ church bells, that we have been led to analyse it, 
 and lind it embraces 11 peals of 12 bells, 27 of 10 bells, 172 of 8 bells, 260 of 6 be'Us, 73 
 of 5 bells, and about 190,000 single tintinnabula ! a tolerable evidence, in itself, of the 
 extent of modern church buUding.' 
 
 "Eamsgate, Feb. 2Sth, 1849. 
 
 "Gentlemen,— I have great pleasure in bearing testimony to the entire satisfaction you 
 have always given me, in the various bells \ou have cast for my buildings, and I cannot 
 sav more than that I should never think of entrusting the execution of any bells I may 
 require to other hands, while your foundry is carried on. 1 remain, yours truly, 
 
 " Messrs. Mears, Bell Founders." (Signed) A. Welby Pugln." 
 
 " I consider the Royal Exchange Bells to be perfectly satisfactory."- Vincejit Novello. 
 
 " The Bells at the Royal Exchange are as good as possible." — Jullien. 
 
 MANUFACTTTREES OF THE HEMISPHEEICAL AND MUSICAL HAND-BELLS, AND 
 EVEEY OTHEH BESOKIPTION OF BELL. 
 
 GENERAL BRASS FOUNDERS. 
 
 JiAILWAY CARRIAGE AXLE BEARINGS OF SUPERIOR QUALITY, NOT 
 HEATING IN FRICTION, AND WEARING WELL. 
 
 BRASS ORDNANCE. 
 Metal Rollers for Paper Machines, Printers, &c. &c.
 
 HENRY HENDERSON, 
 
 SILVERSMITH, JEWELLER, AND 
 WATCH MAKER, 
 
 38, STRAND, LONDON, 
 
 H. H. beg;3 to submit a List of 
 
 Electro-Silver Plated Spoons and Forks, 
 
 ■WHICH AKE MADE OF 
 
 HARD WHITE METAL, 
 
 AND CAN BE STRONGLY RECOMMENDED. 
 
 Fiddle pattern, Fiddle pattern. Threaded pattern, King's pattern. 
 Electro Silver Small size. 
 
 £ 8. d. 
 Table Forks per 1 i i n n 
 
 dozen ) 
 
 Table Spoons ditto 1 10 
 Dessert Forks "15 
 Dessert Spoons "15 
 Tea Spoons " 15 
 
 Full size. 
 
 Full size. 
 
 
 Full size 
 
 
 £ 8. d. 
 
 £ 8. 
 
 d. 
 
 £ s. 
 
 d. 
 
 1 18 
 
 2 17 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 1 18 
 
 2 17 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 2 2 
 
 
 
 2 5 
 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 2 2 
 
 
 
 2 5 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 1 4 
 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 
 
 On-Receipt of a Post Office Order, made Payable at the Post Office, Charing Crogg, 
 a Sample Pattern may be had. 
 
 EPERGNES, CANDELABRAS, BREAD BASKETS, MUGS, CUPS. 
 
 GOLD AND SILVER WATCHES, 
 
 BRACELETS, BROOCHES, RINGS, PINS, STUDS, &c., 
 IN GREAT CHOICE. 
 
 HENRY HENDERSON, 
 38, Strand, London. 
 
 ESTABLISHED 1830.
 
 Just Published, 
 
 Svo., price 9s. 
 
 SKETCHES OF BRAZIL; 
 
 INCLUDING NEW VIEWS ON TROPICAL AND EUROPEAN FEVER. 
 
 With Remarks on a Premature Decay of the System incident to Europeans on 
 their Return from Hot Climates. 
 
 BY ROBERT DUNDAS, M.D, 
 
 Physician to the Northern Hospital, Liverpool; formerly Acting Surgeon to H.M.j 
 60th Regiment ; and for Twenty-three Years Medical Superintendent of the Britishi 
 Hospital, Bahia. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS, BRITISH AND AMERICAN. 
 
 " The author of these sketches is evidently a close observer and independent thinker, 
 As he has presented the chief evidence on which his opinions are based, he affords his 
 readers an opportunity of testing their truth." — American Quarterly Journal of thi 
 Medical Sciences. , 
 
 " It is due to Mr. Dundas, of Liverpool, to acknowledge the valuable service which 
 he has rendered to the profession by the introduction of his novel and generally suc- 
 cessful treatment of this formidable disease (typhus fever)." — Dublin Quarterly Journal 
 of Medical Science : M'Ecers. 
 
 " If he succeed in proving his case, he will have deserved well of his profession." — ■ 
 British and Foreign Medico- Cliirurgical Review. 
 
 "The principal treatment in all (80 cases), except one, was the use of bisulphate 
 of quinine, so strongly recommended by Dr. Dundas. In 79 cases marked improvement 
 ■was observeable in the course of twelve hours." — Lancet : Hayward, 
 
 "The experience of Dr. Fenner gives great additional strength to the important 
 practical doctrine which Dr. Dundas has brought before the profession." — London 
 Jownal of Medicine. 
 
 " We cannot quit the work without stating that it is written with great ability 
 We have read it with much interest, and gathered from it many valuable facts 
 Throughout the whole work there is abundant evirleiice that Dr. Dundas is a physician 
 of learning and superior attainments." — Medical Times, 
 
 "It is evidently the production of an original thinker ; one who observes facts, and 
 reasons from them. We recommend the work to the careful perusal of every prac 
 titioner." — Provincial Mcdiral and Surgical Journal. 
 
 " Here we pause ; not without recommending to the consideration of readers, boll 
 medical and general, the perusal of the present work, as one containing much in 
 teresting information, and many things which it is important and desirable to know."— 
 Edinburgh Medical and Surgical Journal. 
 
 "Dr. Dundas is a spirited writer; and as a physician he evidently stands high as ai 
 original thinker and accurate observer. We promise to the readers of Dr. Dundad 
 book sound insiruction." — Celsus : London Literary Journal. 
 
 "While the book presents many notices of Brazilian scenery and life and manners 
 interesting to the general reader, the nnodical information which it contains is of greal 
 importance to all professional men." — Literary Gazette. 
 
 "As an important contr."nution to this field of inquiry, we must add this work ol 
 Di. Dundas. It is the produL-tion of a man of accurate observation and sounc 
 thought." — Athencsuin. 
 
 LONDON: JOHN CliURClIILL, PllINCE'S-STREET, bOHO 
 
 LIVliRrOOL- DiilGliTON & LAUGHTON, and IIOCRLIFF & SONS
 
 WEDDING, BIRTHDAY, & OTHER PRESENTS. 
 
 MADAME TEMPLE, 
 
 MODELLER OF 
 
 WAX FLOWERS & FRUIT, 
 184, Regent Street, 
 
 Begs to invite an inspection of her Extensive Stock, comprising the finest 
 
 OLD DRESDEN, OLD, AND MODERN SEVRES, 
 
 BOHEMIAN AND OTHER 
 
 FOREIGN PORCELAIN, 
 
 GLASS VASES, • 
 BISQUE FIGURES, BRONZES, FANS, JEWEL CASKETS. 
 
 RETICULES ANiP LEATHER GOODS, 
 ORK AND GLOVE BOXES. 
 
 BEADS., 
 
 AND A GREAT VARIETY OF ARTICLES SUITABLE FOR 
 
 PRESENTS, 
 
 LADIES' TOILETTES, 
 
 AND FOR GENERAL USE OF THE NEWEST FASHION, AND AT 
 
 CONTINENTAL PRICES. 
 
 184, Regent Street, London, 
 
 NEST DOOR TO WILKS .
 
 ADAMS' PATENT 
 REPEATING FIBE AR 
 
 The Patentees have much pleasure in making known to their 
 Patrons and the Public that the 
 
 FIRST CLASS IVIEDAL 
 
 HAS BEEN AWARDED TO THEM BV THB JUDGES OF THE 
 
 New York Exhibition, 
 
 For the 
 
 SUPERIORITY OF THEIR ARMS 
 
 In agratuiatory letter from the Chairman of the Arms' Department, 
 reference is made to his conversations with some of the most eminent 
 
 officers of the 
 
 UNITED STATES SERVICE, 
 
 Who consider 
 
 Adams' Patent Repeating Fire Anns 
 
 SUPERIOR TO ALL OTHERS. 
 
 Upwards of one hundred and fifty thousand of these arms have been sup- 
 ^plied within two years *o the Officers in Her Majesty's, the Honourable Eiist 
 India Company's, and the Mercantile Services, ^yiih whom the Arm is i 
 great favorite. 
 
 Orders Piompfli/ attended to — Wholesale hy the Patentees. 
 
 aO, KING WILLIAM STREET, 
 
 Ji O N D O N BRIDGE, 
 
 And Retail through any respectable Gunmaker in Europe or the United 
 States of Anserica, and by the various agents, &c., in Indit and the 
 Colonies.
 
 THE TOURIST'S 
 
 ILUSTRATED HAND-BOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 IRELAND. 
 
 gi,t Blip, iiitti giaig-gix lllusfutiuiis. 
 
 DRxVWlNGS BY MAHONY, CROWQUILL, JONES, AND LOYER, 
 
 The houseicas oi'erfloicing toith Enrjlhh Tourists, each carrying in his or her right hancZ 
 a Pea-Green BLvnu-Book, that hud been given at Euston Station, and lohich had told 
 
 almost everybody to come to Westport.—Page \'y\ Tiie passengers were nearly all 
 
 English wide-awake travellers, most of \chom held in their hands a certain Pea-Gueex 
 Book. — Page 1G9 In the Pea-Gkeex Book, to which I have so ojlen had occa- 
 sion to refer, the EnglisJi Tourist is informed, cj-c, cfe. Page 223. — Sir F. B. He.vu's 
 "Fortnight in Ireland, 1852." 
 
 THERD EDITION.-rWEMY-FniST THOUSAND, 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 DAVID BRYCE, PATERNOSTER-ROW; 
 
 LIVERPOOL: G. PHILIPS & SON, SOUTH CASTLE STREET r 
 DUBLUST: M'GLASHAN; AND ALL BOOKSELLERS. 
 
 PRINTED BY JOHN CASSELL, LUDGATE HILL, LONDON, FOR THE RAILWAY COM- 
 rAXIES, PARTIES TO THE IRISH TOURIST TICKET SYSTEM. 
 
 1S54.
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Acliill Sound, and missionary station 171 
 Aghadoe, ruins and round tower of . 23 
 Aghnanure castle, remains of . . 18S ; 
 Agnew's liill, near Larne, view from 215 
 Allen, hill of, site of Fingal's hall . 5C 
 Altadore, admired demesne of . , 49 i 
 Apple tree in Goldsmith's garden . ICO 
 Ardtiiian castle, remains of . . . l''JS 
 Ardgillan castle, near Skerries . . 109 ; 
 Ardpatrick, village of, round tower at 1, j 
 Arklow, town and castle of . . . 32 
 Athenanmi at Cork, a result of the Ex- 
 hibition of 1852 GG 
 
 Athenry, Dominican abbey at . 1(35 
 
 Atlilone, town and castle of . . lO-l 
 
 Atlilumney church and castle, ruins of 203 
 Atkinson's poplin manufactory, Dublin, 
 
 patronised by Her Majesty . . G 
 Auburn, the " Deserted ^>'illage" . 150 
 Aughrim, village and castle of . . 1C5 
 Avoca, vale of, meeting of the waters 31 
 Avondale, residence of Colonel Hayes 27 
 
 B 
 Bailey rocks and light-house, off Howth 196 
 Balbriggan, and its factories . . 199 
 Baldoyle, village of, near Dublin . 19G 
 13aldmigan castle and church, ruins of 198 
 Ballina and its salmon fishery . . 191 
 Ballinacarriga castle, remains of . 94 
 Ballinasloe, town of . ... 1(J5 
 Ballingeary, " place of the -wilderness" 100 
 IBallinatray, demesne of jMr. R. Smith 130 
 Ballyartliur, demesne of Mr. Bailey . 05 
 Bally Kisteen, seat of the Earl of Derby GO 
 Ballymoran castle, remains of . . 142 
 Ballynakill bay, coast of Galway . 175 
 lialrotlieiy church and castle, ruins of 199 
 Bandon, town and environs of . . 87 
 Bangor, and the Menai tubular bridge 1 
 
 Bank of Ireland 4 
 
 Bantry Bay, scenery & reminiscences of 94 
 IBarna, estate of Lord Campbe'l . . 189 
 Barnageera, sepulchral mounsd at . 199 
 Bealan brack river and Lough Corrib 186 
 Bective abbey, ruins of, near Trim . 15(J 
 Belfast, commerce and manufactures of 214 
 „ to the Giant's Causeway . 214 
 Bellevue, seat of P. La Touchc" . . 20 
 Bells of Shandon, the, by Father Prout 70 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Belmont castle, near Crookstown . 97 
 Belvidcre, seat of Earl of Lanesborough 158 
 Bianconi, Mr. Charles, notice of . . 141 
 Blackpool terminus and suburbs, Cork 63 
 Blackrock castle, on the Lee, near Cork 79 
 Blackwater, river, rise and course of 126 
 Blarney, its stone, gi-oves, and castle 71 
 Bog farming, successful results of . 186 
 Bog of Allen, and its curiosities . . 154 
 Boyle's bridge, over tlie river Lee 99 
 Boj'ne, source of the river . . . 157 
 Bray Head, terminus of Wicklow hills 21 
 Bray, village of, Wicklow ... 15 
 Breslin, jMr., hotel-keeper. Bray, super- 
 intendent of the principal refreslimeut 
 saloon in the Dublin Exhibition . 50 
 Brian Eoru's harp, in Trinity College 5 
 Broomfield House, seat of G. Cash, Esq. 197 
 Bullock, village and ruined castle of 14 
 Buttevant, ancient remains at . . C2 
 
 C 
 
 Cahir castle, seat of Mr. J. Sadlier . 138 
 
 Caii-n castle, and its legend . . . 215 
 
 Calpe, and its antiquities . . . 200 
 
 Cappuquin House, seat of Sir R. Kane 12G 
 
 Carbury hill, ancient remains at . 156 
 
 Cargin castle, near Lough Corrib . 188 
 
 Carlingford bay, scenery of . . . 210 
 
 Carran Tual, highest point in Ireland 121 
 
 Carriclcarede, rude plank bridge at . 218 
 
 Cariickfergus, town and castle of . 214 
 
 Carrick-on-Sidr, town and castle of 142 
 
 Carrick-Oris, remains of castle at . 156 
 
 Carrigaholt castle, remains of . . 134 
 
 Carrigmore, hydropathic establishment 79 
 
 „ demesne of Lord Xorbuiy 94 
 
 Carton, seat of the Duke of Leinster . 55 
 
 Castle Bellingham, model village of 207 
 
 „ Bernard, seat of Earl of Bandon 87 
 
 „ Carbury, remains of, near Trim 156 
 
 „ Lloward, seat of Sir 11. Howard 31 
 
 „ Mahon, seat of Sir V.'. Chatterton 79 
 
 „ Masters, seat of J. Pyne, Esq. 100 
 
 Castleknock castle, remains of . . 153 
 
 Castlemore castle, near Crookstown 97 
 
 Castletown House, seat of Connollys 154 
 
 Celbridge Abbey, seat of Henry Grattan, 
 
 and bui'ial-place vi Swift's Vanessa 55 
 Celebrities of Cork, living and dead . 82 
 Chester, city of, quaint old buildings in 1
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Ill 
 
 TAGE 
 Chet-s\'3'iKl viaduct, Cork & Bandon line 80 
 City Hall, (Koyal Exchange,) Dublin 4 
 Cladj^ bridge and ancient church of 203 
 Cleggan, round tower and caves of . 175 
 Clew Baj', and its islands . . . 171 
 Clifden castle, Connemara . . . 178 
 Cloghantauovun castle, remains of . 134 
 Cloglu-een, village of, near Killarney 123 
 Clonard, historical notices of . . 157 
 Cloncurry, remains of a church at . 154 
 Clondalkin, round tower at . . . 55 
 Clonmacnoise, ruins of, near Athlone 1()4 
 Clonmel, ruins and reminiscences of . 138 
 Clontarf, historical associations of . 190 
 ,, castle of, near Dublin . . VJG 
 Cobb dhuv, or the Black Mountain . 105 
 Conadrumna, church and castle of . 99 
 Confey castle, ruins of, near Dublin . 153 
 Conna castle, ruins of, near Youghal 129 
 Connemara and the wild West . . 172 
 „ Miss Martineau on . . 177 
 
 „ peasantiy of . . . . 182 
 
 Conwa}^ town and bridge of, N. Wales 1 
 Cork and the scenery of the Lee . 63 
 Coolatin Park, seat of Earl Eltzwilliam 34 
 Coon Cave, and the Giant's Organ . 221 
 Cromlech at Ballybrack ... 15 
 Cromwell's Bridg'e, near Glengariff . 103 
 „ Rock^at Waterford . . 143 
 Crookhaven, and the southern coast . 91 
 Crosshaven, mouth of Carigaline river 81 
 Curraghmore, seat of Lord Waterford 143 
 Cypress trees at Hollvbrook, Wicklow 21 
 
 D 
 Dalkey, reminiscences of ... 14 
 Dangan castle, home of Wellington . 155 
 Dargle, the, and the Lover's Leap . IS 
 Delacour Villa, seat of C. Beamish, Esq. 97 
 Delgany, hamlet of . . . . 2G 
 Derrycunnihy, cascade of, Killarney, 123 
 Derrydonnel castle, ruins of . . " . 1(55 
 Devil's Bit Mountains, Tipperary . 58 
 5, Glen, scene of a rebel massacre 27 
 „ Punch-bowl, top of Mangerton 122 
 Dinas island, view from, of Killarney 121 
 Dominican convent at Drogheda . 201 
 J) Friary, at Kilkenny . . 14() 
 
 Donaglmiore, round tower of " . . 203 
 Doorway of General Ginklc's house, 
 
 Athlone 104 
 
 Drogheda, antiquities of . ; . 20O 
 Dromana castle, seat of Lord Stewart 
 
 de Decies, once of the Desmonds . 126 
 
 Druid's altar androcking-stone, Larne 215 
 
 Drumcarragh castle, retreat of O'Leary 99 
 
 Dublm, vic\v of, from Carlisle Bridge 2 
 
 ,, public buildings of . . . 3 
 
 „ institutions and trade of . 6 
 
 „ po])ulation and social statistics of 11 
 
 „ and Drogheda railway tennmns 195 
 
 PACK 
 
 Dublin to the Giant's Causeway . 195 
 DunI)rody abbey, remains of . . 143 
 Dundalk, historical notices of . . 207 
 Dundaniel castle, valley of thoBrinny 87 
 Dundanion castle, seat of Sir T. Deane 7S 
 Dunch'um, demesne of Lord Hawarden 60 
 Dunloe, Gap of, and singular echoes 113 
 Dunluce castle, near the Causeway . 222 
 Dunmanway, town and lake of . . 94- 
 Dunsink, astronomical observatory at 153 
 
 E 
 Eagle's Xest glen, Killarney, echoes at 114 
 Emo park, seat of Earl of Portarlhigton 5S 
 Enniskerry, ro'.nantic -^nllage of . . 46 
 Erris, lake and mountain scenery of 191 
 Extinct deer of Ireland, skeletons of 5 
 
 F 
 Fair Head, basaltic clitfs of . . . 21G 
 Finglass, vicarage of Parnell the poet 153 
 First Tour, through WickloAV . . 12 
 Flax culture, first introduction of . 9!> 
 Four Courts, Dublin .... 3 
 
 G 
 Galway, historical notices of . . ITG 
 Gandsey, the blind piper of Killarney llu 
 Garbally, seat of Lord Chmcarty . 1G5 
 Garron Point, view from . . . 215 
 Garryowen and its associations . .134- 
 Geology of the Causeway district . 21G 
 George Winder, the Glendalough Guide 39 
 Giant's Causeway, and Giant's Well 217 
 
 „ Gateway, and Lady's Chair . 211) 
 Glasnevin, literary associations of . 152 
 „ Botanical Gardens at . 152 
 Glcna, bay of, lower lake of Killarney 118 
 Glenacappul, or " glen of the horse'' . 123 
 Glenarra, and hill of Nachore . . 215 
 Glenavon, Druidical monument in . 43 
 Glendalough and the Seven Churches 38 
 Glendun, viaduct and valley of . . 21(> 
 Glengariff, or the Rocky Glen, bay of 103 
 Glen of Aherlow, in Galtee mountains Gl 
 Glen of Dunran, scene of a massacre 27 
 
 „ „ the Downs, Wicklow county 20 
 Goggin's manufactory of bog-oak, and 
 
 other ornaments, Dublin ... 7 
 Gold and copper mines of AVicklow . 34 
 Gf)lden Valley, Tipperary . . . 13S 
 Gormanstown castle .... 20i) 
 Gougane Barra, source of the river Lee 100 
 Granny castle, ruins of. near Waterford 143 
 
 Hall, Colonel, and the mineral develop- 
 ment of the south of Corli . . 91 
 Headborough, seat of Rev. Percy Smith 127 
 Hen's castle, legend concerning . . 186 
 Hollybrook, seat of Sir G. F. J. Ilodson 21 
 Holy Cross Abbey, near Thurles . 60 
 Hotel, Breslin's, at Bray, noted for the 
 excellence of its accommodation . 50 
 
 /<*vJ^JiC--<'*
 
 TABLE OF COXTEMS. 
 
 TAOK 
 . 10 
 . 10.5 
 
 90 
 
 Howtli, objects of interest around 
 Hungry Hill watcrlall, Glengariff 
 
 Inchigeela, village and lakes of . 
 Innisfallen island, lower lake, Killarney 115 
 
 - ■■ ■ 188 
 
 1 
 10 
 oS 
 
 Innisghoil, ecclesiastical ruins on 
 Introduction, Chester to Holyhead . 
 Ireland's Eye, scene of Kinvan tragedy 
 Irish Beet-root Sugar ]\Ianufactory . 
 
 J 
 
 Jerpoint aLbej', near Waterford . .143 
 Julianstown, scene of a battle . . 200 
 
 K 
 Keimaneigh, pass of, near Gougane . 101 
 Kenmare,"town and bay of . _ . . 108 
 Kilballyowen monastery, remains of 13-4 
 Kilbarnock abbey, ruins of . . . 19G 
 Kilcoleman Head, bay of Killala . 192 
 Kilcolman castle, residence of Spenser G2 
 Kilconncl, Franciscan monastery at . IGo 
 Kildare, round tower and cathedral of 56 
 Kilkaskin, seat of Mr. O'Neill Daunt 94 
 Kilkenny, public buildings of . . 143 
 Killadoon, seat of the Earl of Leitrim 55 
 Killala, roimd tower at . . . . 192 
 Killarney, approach to the town of , 100 
 „ " directions for visiting . . Ill 
 „ upper lake of, and its islands 113 
 „ middle lake of, or Tore Lake 114 
 „ lower lake of, and Itoss Isle 115 
 Killeiy Bay, coast of Galway . . 171 
 Killeries, Joyce's country, Connemara ISG 
 Kilmainham royal hospital for veterans 54 
 Kilmallock, archiEological notices of . Gl 
 Kilruddery, seat of the Earl of Meatli 22 ' 
 Kilworth and Knockmeladown mounts 128 [ 
 King John's Castle, Trim . . . 15G [ 
 Kingstown, atmospheric railway at .♦ 14 , 
 Kinnafad castle, near Edenderry . 15G 
 Kinneigh, round tower at . . . 94 1 
 Knockiofty, seat'of Earl Donoughmore 142 i 
 Ivnocklong, its ruins and their legends Gl ! 
 Kuocknaveigh, ascent of, and view from 95 I 
 
 Lambay Island, its castle and caves . 198 
 
 Landerstowu castle, ruins of . . 198 
 
 Laracor rectory, and Dean Swift . 155 
 
 Laragh, village of 35 
 
 Leixiip castle, remains of . . . 154 
 
 Limerick, Lower Shannon, and the Suir 131 
 
 „ town and castle of . . 131 
 
 „ cathedral, story concerning 132 
 
 „ antiquities 'of .... 133 
 
 Liscarrol castle, ruins of, near Buttevant G2 
 
 Lisciirton castle, remains of . . 203 
 
 Lismore, town and castle of . . . 128 
 
 Lissfinney castle, seat of Capt. Crokcr 128 
 
 Long Range, Lakes of Killarney . 113 
 
 Loop Head, mouth of the Shannon . 134 
 
 Looscannagh Lough, near Killarney 123 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lough Athalia, floating basin at . 152 
 
 „ ]5allinahiuch, island in . . 177 
 
 „ Ballinderry, antiquities near . 158 
 
 „ Bray, source of the river Liffey 4G 
 
 „ Glcnda, and the Becess . . 179 
 
 „ Gur, antiquities and fossils at 61 
 
 „ Kylemore, and the moorlands 177 
 
 „ Owel, Franciscan monastery at 157 
 
 „ .Sliindilla, and its islands . 179 
 
 Louth, arclireological notices of . . 207 
 
 Lower Lake of Killarney, scenery of 115 
 
 Lucan, stra;vberry gardens at . . 153 
 
 Luggala, and its poetical associations 43 
 
 Lvons Castle, seat of Lord Cloncurrv 55 
 
 M 
 
 JMacgillicuddy's Reeks, view of . . 107 
 
 Maiden Tower, mouth of the Boyne . 200 
 
 Malahide, village and castle of . . 197 
 
 INIallow, town of, on the Blackwater 62 
 
 IMangcrton, ascent of, and view from 122 
 
 IMathew Testimonial, near Cork . . 70 
 
 Maynooth, castle and college of . . 155 
 
 Mayo, huts of the peasantry of . . 191 
 
 Meeting of the Waters, Yale of Avoca 30 
 
 „ „ „ Killarney . 114 
 
 IMerino, seat of Earl Charlemont . 196 
 
 IMewlrea mountain, Connemara . . 186 
 IMiddle Lake of Killarney . . .114 
 
 jNIines of Ballygoneen, Wicklow . 49 
 
 IMolier cliffs, mouth of the Shannon . 187 
 
 IMonasterboice abbey, remains of . 202 
 
 Monastereven, town of .... 56 
 
 jSlonasteroris monastery, ruins of . 156 
 
 IMonkstown, baths and scenery at . 79 
 
 INIoore's monument, Dublin . . . 1.53 
 
 Mount IMclleray, Trappist monastery of 126 
 
 Jlountain Dew Girls, at Killarney . 110 
 
 IMourne abbey, ruins of, and Danish fort 86 
 
 Moyne abbey, ruins of ... . 192 
 
 INIuckross abiiey, ruins of, Killarney 118 
 
 IMullingar, attractions of . . . 157 
 
 Blyrtle Grove, residence of Raleigh . 129 
 
 N 
 
 Naas, residence of the kings of Leinster 55 
 
 Narrow "Water House, near Newry . 212 
 
 Nelson's pillar, Dublin .... 2 
 
 Newbridge," ancient bridge over Liffey 154 
 
 Newrath Bridge, scenery around . 27 
 
 Newry, town of, and its vicinity . 208 
 
 Newtown, monastery and old bridge at 156 
 
 Newtown Mount Kennedv, town of . 49 
 
 O 
 
 O'Connell memorial window, Cork . 71 
 
 Oldbridge, scene of Bonnie battle . 201 
 
 Olderflect castle, ruins'of, near Larnc 215 
 
 Old Weir Bridge, Long Range . . 114 
 
 Omcath, bay o'f Carlingford . . 210 
 
 Ormoud Castle, seat of the Butlers . 146 
 
 O'Sullivan's Cascade, Killarney . . 118 
 
 Ougliterard, village and round tower of 55
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Palace Anne, seat of Captain Bernard 91 
 „ Mart, Dublin, tirm of M'Swiney, 
 Delaney, and Company, Drapers . 2 
 I'almerstown House, seat of Earl Mayo 55 
 Passage, town of, and its local lyrics 79 
 Penui-e park, seat nf Sir K. Palmer . 198 
 Phcenix park, Dublin, scenery of . 
 Post Oflice, Dublin, designed bj' Wren 4 
 PowelacmTy castles, remains of . . 142 
 Powerscourt cascade, Wicklow . . 19 
 Poulaphouca waterfall, or Puck's hole 47 
 Priory, Templemore, seat of Sir J. Garden 59 
 
 Q 
 Quaker's Island, Lough Ree . .162 
 <Jaeenstown, down the Lee from Cork to 77 
 
 R 
 'Rateen castle, and flagstone quarries 157 
 Red Bay, scenic attractions of . . 215 
 Reacrew castle, on the Blackwater . 130 
 Renvyle castle, Connemara . . . 183 
 Rochiort House, seat of Sir F. Hopkins 158 
 Rock of Dunamose, and remains of 
 
 Earl Strongbow"s Castle ... 58 
 Rosanna, once residence of Mrs. Tighe 34 
 Roscrea, abbej' and round tower at 58 
 Roserke abbey, reiuains of . . . 192 
 Ross castle, ruins of, on Ross Island 115 
 Ross's monument, Rosstrevor . . 209 
 Rosstrevor, castle and bridge of . . 209 
 Rostellan castle, seat of Lord Thomond 82 
 Roundstone, harbour and scenery of 181 
 Routes to Connemara from Galway . 171 
 Rush, round tower at ... . 198 
 Russborough, seat of Earl of Blilltown 47 
 
 S 
 Salmon Leap Cascade, on the LifFey 154 
 Scalp, defile of the, in Wicklow . . 46 
 Scattery Island, round tower on . . 134 
 Scurloughstown castle, remains of . 2:i3 
 Seacourt, seat of the Earl of Bantry . 94 
 Sea-gull Island, near the Causeway . 222 
 Second Tour, Dublin to Queenstown 53 
 Shelton Abbey, seat of Earl of Wicklow 32 
 Shillelah wood, remains of the famous 34 
 Skerry Islands, ruins on ... 199 
 Slane castle, seat of Lord Conyngham 202 
 Stag hunts on the lakes, Killarney . 119 
 Stalactite caverns at ^litchelstown . G2 
 St Boyne's Cross, ^fonasterboice . 202 
 St. Canice, cathedral of, Kilkenny . 14(J 
 St. Cronan, abbey and shrine of , . 58 
 
 PAOK 
 
 St. Doulough, church and well of . 190 
 
 St. John's Castle, near Athlone . . 162 
 
 St. Kevin's Bed, traditions concerning 38 
 
 St. Mary's abbey. Trim, tower of . 156 
 St. Patrick's cathedral, and Swift's tomb 6 
 
 Strancally castle, near Cappoquin . 127 
 
 St. Wolstan's abbey, remains of . . 154 
 
 Suir, valley of the 142 
 
 Swivel bridge, near Galway . . 952 
 
 Swords, round tower and ruins at . 197 
 
 T 
 
 Taghadoe, round tower at . . . 155 
 
 Tailteen, gi-eat cattle fair at . . 206 
 
 Talbot castle, near Trim . . . 156 
 Tara, celebrated hill of . . . .202 
 
 Tayleur, loss of the emigrant ship . 198 
 
 Third Route, Cork to Killarney . . 86 
 Tinnehinch, seat of Rt. Hon. .J. Grattan 20 
 
 Tipperary to Clonmel and Kilkenny 138 
 
 ToUymore park, seat of Earl of Roden 208 
 
 Toomies mountain, Killarney . . 118 
 
 Tore mountain and cascade, Killarney 123 
 
 Trim, points of interest about . . 155 
 
 Tully church, remains of ... 15 
 
 Tuuiuli on the Curragh of Kildare . 56 
 
 Trinity College, Dublin, museum, &c. 4 
 
 Twelve Pins mountains, Connemara 177 
 
 U 
 
 Upper Lake of Killarnev, and its isles 113 
 
 V 
 
 Vale of Avoca, meeting of the waters 31 
 
 Viaduct over the ri-\er Blackwater . 63 
 
 „ „ „ Bovne, at Drogheda 195 
 
 W 
 
 Wfrrrenpoint, bay of Carlingford . 210 
 
 Warren's Court, seat of Sir A. Warren 97 
 
 Waterford, historical-notices of . . 143 
 Waterhouse's* antique Irish brooches, 
 
 patronised Ity her majesty, the Queen 7 
 
 A^'ellington Testimonial, near Dublin 54 
 
 „ „ at Trim . 156 
 
 West])ort, town of, Galway . . . 171 
 
 Wicklow, picturesque scenery of . 12 
 
 „ town and promontory of . 34 
 
 Wooden Bridge Inn, vale of Avoca . 39 
 "Wurrisbev mountain, near Roundstone 182 
 
 Y 
 
 Yew trees, old, at Castle Bellingham 207 
 „ tree, cloisters of jMuckross abbey 118 
 
 Youghal and its antiquities . . . 129 
 
 Z 
 
 Zoological gardens, Phcenix park . 6 
 
 * We omitted to notice in the text that this eminent Irish firm have a most attractive 
 " case" at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham. 
 
 In order to give Advertisements in the Tourist's Handbook the fullest prominence, their 
 position is changed after every alternate thousand copies of the work are struck off. 
 Thus, the Hotels, for example, are placed at the beginning of the Volume for the first 
 thousand, and at the end for the second ; and so on throughout the entire impression — an 
 surangement that has been urged en the Publisher by several r^ular advertisers.
 
 Private 
 
 Eooms. 
 
 "^ o lu; (01 © 
 
 oi "* (M O CO 
 
 © © © © © © 
 
 o >c o o »c o >~ (^ ;o o o o 
 
 : i : : i=y 
 
 (01 © T-4 r-l © O © CO 01 © © CI 
 
 CO CO 01 CO CO lO 
 
 3 0...6 
 ■4 O.-.f) 
 3 G...5 G 
 
 2 6.. .5 
 2 6 
 
 6 0&8 
 
 3 0...5 
 3 0...5 
 
 
 -^oooco "i© 
 
 .2 
 
 oi 1-1 iH rH '-g^M 
 
 C CO CO S © (CO © © rH © l» CO 
 
 &| 1-lT-lj-^ tH rHi-lT-lp^.^iHTHl-H 
 O o c 
 
 © © CO CO © 
 tH rH >-l r-l r-l ^ T-S 
 
 CO 
 
 "^ C' CO © © © r-< 
 
 oj ei i-i iH © i-( © 
 
 CO © O O © 
 T-I © CO CO © © CO (01 CO O © C2 CI 01 © 
 
 ^ : -^ i '^ ^' i 
 
 © t-I©tH CTH^COi-li-l©'-H©COrH 
 
 © C © 
 © © Cl © Cl 01 C0» 
 
 -^ ': : 
 
 T-I tH T-I © T-» 
 
 a> 
 
 '^ ^:r © © o © ctj 
 
 oi T-I ^ ,-( © tH T-l 
 
 CO 
 
 tH cococo od cocococo c^cococo 
 
 © iHi-lrH © tHiHtHi-I i-It-)t-Ii-I 
 
 00 © CO CO CO CO © 
 
 ©,-|_,^,H.-(,-l t-It-1 
 
 o 
 C 
 S 
 
 '« CO © © © © (01 
 !/. O lOI (01 (M (01 00 
 
 CO © © o © 
 © CO©© 00(M©COCOCO©©COCOOO 
 
 : : =^ : r- 
 ei CI CO 01 i-i © CI CO CI © 1-1 01 © g r-^ 
 
 01 Cl CI CI •i 
 
 © CO ©CD 
 (:0C0C0cO©©rH-*C1© 
 
 t-ith gcicocn g©o6ci 
 c= *(^01-^ 
 
 h3 
 
 CO 
 ~ O O © © © T-I 
 
 lyj (01 r-l rH tH tH © 
 i-l 
 
 © © © o 
 
 © Cl Cl © c;5 © © CO O ^ CO C' © O 00 
 
 : : -^ : -r-< 
 
 i-H ©©1-1 CO 1-1 1-1 1-1 M © © © © 1-1 © 
 rH 1-1 © 1-1 
 
 ©. © 00©© 
 
 © Cl © CI Cl 
 
 ^ : H i i 
 
 CO CO g oco 
 
 © TH ^r^r-^ 
 
 M 
 
 \ O 
 
 '«' Ol o o o o o 
 =-'3 
 
 oi 00 T-l T-l i-l 1-1 rH 
 
 T-I 
 
 CO C» © 00 O 
 
 1-1 ©©!» ©1-(CO©ClrH©OC1©0 
 
 =« : : : : 
 
 O CICItH i-ICOiHC1X©t-It-I©C1t-I 
 ^ rH ^ .-1 Cl 
 
 © © CO Ci 
 tH iH © © Cl C5 CO Cl ^ © 
 
 CO © Cl C« CC T-I tH ©" CO Cl 
 
 T-4 tH CItH 
 
 
 'S O (^ O © O O 
 t/i 01 1-1 iH iH 1-1 T-I 
 
 © CO 00 
 
 ei ©©© ©cococi©o©coo©^ 
 : : cia 
 
 CO Cl Cl tH t-i iH iH © 01 T-I T-I Cl CO CO © 
 
 tH 01 t-I 
 
 CO CO CO c 
 
 th © CO Cl iH © CD c; 
 : : : =y 
 
 tH©CO©©rH©COt-IC 
 1-1 Cl Cl iH C 
 
 o 
 2 
 
 , 1 
 
 
 
 
 Ht ,^ r^ r^ ^. ?^ Ph i-s ^ 
 
 o 
 
 w 
 
 o 
 
 B 
 
 ea 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 • • • ' u * 
 
 o S 
 
 a ' "^-^ 
 
 .2 S fc^ 
 
 o o« 
 
 J OH 
 
 <1 P?P 
 
 S 03 S 
 
 •^ • s . 5 .-^ . . . .'g 
 
 ■•B ...1^ .1 . ..^ .?o.|| .2 i 
 
 Iiii4^llg|:ii]ilj|ii.iiilli|^:l|- 
 
 cq pqpqcq pqpq pqooo Q P
 
 
 o 
 
 o o 
 
 
 
 4 0...G 
 3 0...7 
 
 5 
 nocharge 
 3 O...0 
 3 0...5 
 3 0...5 
 nocharge 
 
 nocharge 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 '^ CO 
 
 ©CO 
 
 K> 
 
 
 00 
 
 N CO 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 00 
 CI CI 
 
 
 
 
 coo 
 oc» 
 
 
 
 INC! 
 
 <N 
 
 W 
 
 
 
 
 
 c» 
 
 CI 
 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
 o 
 
 OCO 
 
 00 OCO'M COO 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 00 
 
 o 
 
 '"' 
 
 p 
 
 r-l ^ 
 
 l-lrH -HrHrH rtlH i-( 
 
 7-t 
 
 
 
 
 
 rr^ 
 
 r-{ rH 
 
 
 
 o o 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 l-o 
 
 o 
 
 <-> tH 
 
 cx 
 
 CIO CO 000 
 
 C) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 rHO 
 
 1-t 
 
 iH 
 
 ^ 3 
 
 r-l !J3 
 
 Or-I 
 i-l 
 
 Or-I r-lrH rH r^r^r^ 
 r-l 
 
 rH 
 
 rH 
 
 
 
 
 -< 
 
 OrH 
 r-\ 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 <N 
 
 o 
 
 O-l 
 
 'ij^^ 
 
 OOOOOCOCOOCOCOOOCO 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CO CO 
 
 
 
 00 
 
 «-( 
 
 " 
 
 
 OC5 
 
 
 '-' 
 
 r-l 1-^ 
 
 rH 
 
 rH r-l 
 
 rH 
 
 r-* 
 
 r-l rH 
 
 CO 
 
 o 
 
 cc o 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 00 
 
 j p 
 
 05 
 
 p 
 
 1-1 N 
 
 £ a 
 
 c o 
 'ha 
 
 !M CO 
 00 
 
 <MOC0OOOOOOO0CCCC-lO 
 
 =y ^ : 
 
 CO CO IM CI C3 CO CI C-l rH rH d C^ 
 rH CI c^ 
 
 CI CO 
 
 o'o 
 
 rH CI 
 
 CI 00 
 d CI c» 
 
 CI 
 
 T-l 
 
 g 
 
 
 C! 
 
 00000 
 CI CI CI CI CI 
 
 COCO 
 
 00 
 C» CI 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 oc> 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 •^J 
 
 o 
 
 
 (N 000 
 
 ■^ : 
 
 <^ ':D r-< ,-< r-{ rH r-l rH rH 
 
 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 r-<<:i 
 
 rH 
 
 o 
 
 ■-* 
 
 00 
 
 r-i 
 
 r^ rH 
 
 
 
 
 
 dir^ 
 
 
 '^ 
 
 
 i-l rH 
 
 rH rH 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 «J 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 '^ 
 
 C-1 
 
 OtH 
 
 I-H CO 
 
 OOOOCOGOOOCOOCOOOOO 
 
 CI 
 
 000 
 
 rH 
 
 -o 
 
 c^ 00 
 
 •o 
 
 o 
 
 -* § 
 
 r-( 
 
 rHdClOrHrHrHrHrHrHrHrHrHrH 
 
 r^^ CO 
 
 rH rH rH 
 
 
 
 rH rH 
 
 rH 
 
 r-l r-i 
 
 06 ^ 
 
 «-l 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 r-\ 
 
 o 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 =y 
 
 
 O M 
 
 O] 
 
 ococooococooooooooo 
 
 CI 
 
 CI 00 
 
 00 
 
 00000 
 
 CIO 
 
 
 » 
 
 (M 5 
 
 T-( 
 
 
 rHO 
 
 CI rH 
 
 rH 
 
 r-i rH 
 
 r-^ 
 
 r^ r-l 
 
 00 rH 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 '"' 
 
 
 CJ 
 
 -■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 r-{ 
 
 
 ,^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 tn 
 
 c 
 
 9 >> 
 
 - '3 
 
 
 John Kilroy . 
 M. McAulay . 
 Thomas Eccle;^ 
 
 \V. Roche 
 ]\rr. M'Kcnny 
 E. Hayes 
 W. Rathbonc . 
 j\Ir. Parry 
 0. Sullivan . 
 Tliomas Cottei 
 Tliomas Finn . 
 Thomas Finn . 
 AV'illiam Roche 
 J. Hurley 
 D. Kclliher . 
 Thomas Hewil 
 S. Hurley 
 J. M'Carthy . 
 
 2 '3 
 
 0,>H 
 
 Mrs. Greer 
 J. Stewart 
 Mrs. Condon . 
 M. Dibles 
 J. Williams . 
 S.Hill . 
 
 
 
 h 
 
 
 
 is j£ 
 •^ CO 
 
 
 
 
 to 
 
 a in 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 • ■ m 
 S 
 
 
 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 cu o 
 
 2 
 
 GALWAY. — Clanricarde Ai 
 GLENARM.— Antrim Arms 
 GLENGARIFF.— Bantry A 
 
 Roval . 
 IIOWTII.— Roval . 
 KINGSTOWN.— Royal . 
 
 Rathbone's . 
 
 Salt Hill . 
 KILLARNEY.— Hibernian 
 
 Lake . 
 
 Kenniare Arms . 
 
 Royal Victoria . 
 
 Muckross 
 
 Tore View . 
 
 Roval Hibernian . 
 KILKENNY.— Railway . 
 KILLALOE.— Albert 
 KENMARE.— Lansdowne A 
 
 KILKEK— Moore's . 
 LlMERICK.--Moore's 
 
 Cruise's 
 LONDONDERRY.— Imperil 
 LARNE. — King's Arms 
 MALLOW.— Queen's Arms 
 MULLINGAR.— York 
 MACROOM— Queen's Arms 
 R08STREV0R.— Hill's . 
 ROUNDSTONE— Kelly's. 
 TARBERT.— Gallagher's . 
 TRALEE.— Blennerhasset A 
 TUAM.— Daly's 
 
 Jennings' 
 WESTPORT.— Eagle 
 
 Daly's Royal Mail 
 WICKLOW.— Newrath Brid 
 
 Wooden Bridge . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 — — 
 
 
 
 3 1> cS
 
 SILVER, ELECTRO-PLATE AND BRONZ 
 
 ELKINTON, MASON AND COMPANY, 
 
 The Patentees of the Electro Plate, respectfully urge upon buyers of 
 Plated Goods, desirous of purchasing' their Manufocture, to identify the same 
 by reference to the Patent Marie, " E. & Co. under a Crown," which is dis- 
 tinctly struck on every warranted article made by Elkinton, INIason and 
 Company. 
 
 Designs for Sil\^r Presentation Plate, by the first Artists of the 
 day. Estimates and Patterns for Hotels, Club Houses and Steam Packet 
 Companies, may be had on application to the 
 
 MANUFACTORY AND SHOW ROOMS, 
 
 NEWHALL STREET, BIRMINGHAM; 
 
 AND AT 22, REGENT STREET, 
 
 A.\D 45, INIOORGATE STREET, LONDON
 
 m
 
 THE 
 
 IRISH TOURIST'S HAND-BOOK. 
 
 INTEODUCTION. 
 
 TnoirciH Ireland is the subject-matter of these pages, the iiitroductor-s" 
 jouniey thither abounds in attractions unsurpassed in Great Britain. Were 
 the scenic beauties of the sister country less strildng and di^-crsified, theii' 
 eulogists might well dread the criticism of traA-ellcrs fresh from the most 
 pictiu-esque portions of North "Wales, beginning -with Chester itself [the 
 common starting-point of those about to conunence these tours], which 
 is unlike any other place in the United Kingdom ; and the reader will 
 hai'dly have been within its singular precincts, before he desire to make 
 as minute an exploration as time permits of its quaint and curious pecu- 
 liarities. So, too, with the storied towns and towers of Conway and of 
 Bangor. Both teem with historic interest, and arc scarcely less remarkable 
 for the natural beauties in the midst of Mhich they are placed, than for 
 the evidences of modern engineering skill of two dift'erent orders that enrich 
 their neighboui-hood — Telford's and Stephenson's Bridges. Both these are 
 now eclipsed by the still more miique and stupendous chef-iVoeurre of the 
 latter genius, the famous structure across tlic Menai Straits, which, in its 
 turn, is thrown completely into the shade by his amazing two mile tubular 
 bridge, the Victoria, across the St. Lawrence, at INIontreal, in connexion 
 with that magnificent undertaking — the Grand Trunk Kailway of Canada. 
 In 1852, we ga^'e a detailed account of the whole line between Chester and 
 Holyhead ; but the Tourist Tickets have so familiarised the public with the 
 route and its " lions" now, and the necessity for reserving every possible 
 space for Ireland is so great, that we at once proceed thither. "Without 
 pausing to repeat our preliminary disquisitions on the pleasm-e ti-affic between 
 that country and this, and which, indeed, the first annual experience of the 
 Tom-ist Ticket System, with the half-million visitors sujiervening upon it, 
 would render in a great degree obsolete ah-eady, we shall assume that the 
 reader has reached the Irish metropolis. Oui' description of it would, under 
 any circumstances, be brief ; but we the less regret this being the case just 
 now, as all Dublin bibUopoles, in preparation of the myriads of visitois to 
 last yeai-'s Exhibition, had guide-books of every size and price, to suit all 
 pm-chasers ; consequently, it can be no sacrifice to the most economical to 
 refer hhn to such auxiliaries for whatever particulars the annexed pages ma}- 
 fail to fiu-nish.
 
 2 DUBLIN CITY. 
 
 DUBLIN exhibits features which siLqjiisc the English visitor not a little, 
 both on aiTival and after some short stay. Quitting perhaps the vast British 
 Babylon, and passing through several great manufaetui'ing and commercial 
 towns, he sees abundant wealth and prosperity ; but having once left London, 
 he scarcely expects, with the exception perhaps of Oxford and Edinbui'gh, 
 any architectural magnificence, least of all, in Ireland. Hence Lublin chal- 
 lenges his admiration, and originates a respect for Ireland and her people, 
 which a closer intimacy almost alwaj's confirms, if political causes exercise no 
 baleful intiuence. It is cmious, that from France, Russia, and Germany — • 
 the several corn-trading ports of the Levant — artistes fi'om Italy — in short, 
 all foreigners, seem at home ui Dublin, as compared with any other British 
 city. The reason is, that Dublin possesses many architectm-al continental 
 characteristics. ]Most of the public buildings are so situate with respect to 
 each other, as to be vicAved fi'om one point. To see this urban scenery in its 
 most attractive aspect, we would say, selcot an early summer's morning, or a 
 bright moonlight night ; stand at the centre balustrade of Carhsle Bridge, 
 and then, turn what way you wiU, a view is presented, scarcely to be sui- 
 passcd by anything of the kind elsewhere. North stretches the noble mall of 
 Sackville-street, whose vast width is not so perceptible as it otherwise would 
 be, owing to the cut granite Doric piUar of Nelson, 110 feet high, occupying 
 the centre. Of graceful proportions, the shaft springs from a square pedi- 
 ment, approached by a flight of steps. On each face of the pediment is 
 inscribed the name of one of the hero's greater rictories ; and a flag is exhibited 
 on the anniversary of each, viz., St. Vincent, Copenhagen, the Nile, and Tra- 
 falgar. A spu'al stau" winds through the pillar to the top, whereon the 
 statue is placed. The platform at the summit is enclosed by a high railing ; 
 and fi'om this spot may be enjoyed a magnificent \"iew of DubUii and its 
 cnA-irons. Admission may be had, at any horn- of the day. on payment of a 
 few pence to the poi'ter. Further north still extends the imposing ^dsta of 
 Sackville-street, to where the ^dew is shut in by the foUage of the Botunda 
 Gardens, and by the houses of Cavendish-row, over which St. George's 
 Chm'ch displays its graceful spu-e. The always stately aspect of this noble 
 street has been enhanced by some recent additions in the vicinity of the 
 General Post-office, at the opposite side of the thoroughfare. A spacious 
 building adjouiing the Imperial Hotel, and in symmetrical keeping with it 
 in structure, has been erected. Next the Hotel, to the north, now stands the 
 Palace Mart — palatial indeed in its proportions, and scarcely less so in the 
 costliness of its contents — of the fum of McSwecney, Delany and Co. This 
 vast building presents one of the most beautiful specimens of street architec- 
 tui^e to be seen in the United Kingdom. Hhc facade and frontal decorations 
 ai'e in the florid Italian style. The edifice occupies a wide extent of frontage, 
 and rises to an elevation of seventy -three feet. The interior, which is devoted 
 to the pui-poses of a mor,ster mart for di-apery, sUk-mercery, &c., is fitted up 
 in a style of perfect sumptuousness, but with a refinement wliich eschews 
 the vulgarity of tawdryness that so often shocks the taste m some of the 
 maimnoth establishments of a lilce kind in the British metropolis, 'ihc 
 edifice was constructed from the admu'able design of William Deane Butlei', 
 on whose artistic skill and fastidiousness it reflects infinite credit, and was 
 completed in a marvellously short space of time, at a cost of £25,000 — an 
 investment which speaks significantly of the commercial spii'it no less than 
 the pecuniary resources of the Dublhi traders. 
 
 Tmiiing southward, the view, though somewhat naiTowed, is scarcely less
 
 DUBLIN CITY. 3 
 
 interesting. Westmoreland-street and D'Olier-street, beautiful in the stately 
 symmetry of their constniction — the latter offeiing a peep at the Provost's 
 Garden and of one of the side-wings of Trinity College, while the former 
 presents a side \'iew of the facade of the College fi'ont on one hand, and a 
 segment of the splendid eolonnade of the Bank of Ireland on the other. 
 Eastward rolls the Liffey to the sea, and between the tapering masts of the 
 merehant vessels rises the Custom House, \^''cstward fi-om the bridge the 
 eye passes up the river, flowing between its walls of hewn momitain granite, 
 which form the fi'ontago of the quays, and spanned midway between Carlisle 
 Bridge and Essex Bridge by a graceful arch of hammered ii'on, for foot 
 passengers only, at a toll of a halfpenny. The winding of the stream shuts 
 out its course, precluding fm-ther view ; but the impression produced by the 
 panorama thus descried from the centre of Carlisle Bridge is not easily 
 forgotten. 
 
 Westward, again, comes old-fashioned, solidly-built Essex Bridge, beyond 
 which, to the right, appears the new Presbyterian Church, in the Norman- 
 Gotliic, well worth a visit. Proceeding along Ui^per Ormond's Quay, we 
 approach one of the prmcipal lions, viz : — 
 
 The Four Courts, occv;pying a large fi'ontage, facing the river, and 
 crowned with a majestic dome, and constituting, perhaps, one of the noblest 
 sti'uctures of the kind in Em-ope. Its front, occupying 450 feet, consisting of 
 a central building, at either side of which is a sj^acious quadi-angle, with the 
 A'^arious law-offices around fonning the wings, enclosed by arcade screens of 
 cut stone, surmounted by a rich balustrade, each wing having a magnificent 
 gateway, arched and decorated with emblematic designs. The front of the 
 central buUding has a fine portico of six Corinthian piUars, with correspond- 
 ing pilasters in the rear, supporting a rich pediment admii-ably designed, 
 and sm-mounted also by emblematic statues. The apex of the pediment is 
 crowned by a figure of the great Mosaic lawgiver, at either side Justice and 
 Mercy. At each extremity of the front are placed Wisdom and Authority, 
 recumbent figm-es. The centre forms a square of l40 feet, within which is 
 described a cu'cle of 64 feet in diameter, the four principal courts radiating to 
 the angles of the square, the intervals between each occupied as chambers for 
 the judges, &c. The interior of the hall has long been the theme of just 
 admiration. 
 
 The noble line of quays extends from the North Wall Light-house to the 
 gate of the Phoenix Park, three miles on one side, whilst on the opposite 
 they reach from King's Bridge at the Great South and Western Railway 
 terminus, to the exti'cme end of the great South Wall at Dublin-bar Light- 
 house, a distance of nearly six miles. The houses along the line of quays are 
 well and regularly biult, and in the palmier days of Dublin's commercial 
 prospci-ity, obtained high rents as places of business ; but the value of such 
 property along the banks of the Liffcy has become sadly deteriorated, chiefly 
 by reason of the noxious effluvia arising from the bed of the river at low 
 water, and created by the debris of the great city sewers which open into the 
 river. Plans have been recently submitted to the Dublin Sanatory Associa- 
 tion, and also to the town council, by Mr. Jasper "\\Tieeler Rogers, for 
 remedying this evil, and also for improving the sewerage system generally, 
 and shoidd these plans be adopted, application will be made to government 
 for aid to carry them into effect. Fronting An-an Quay is the handsome 
 Roman Catholic pai'ochial church of St. Paul's, surmounted by a tower 
 containing a full peal of beUs, bv Sheridan of Dublin — a name of more than 
 
 B 2
 
 4 DUBLIN CITY. 
 
 national repute in this branch of handicraft, in which, by the way, the 
 Hibernian metropolis exceeds every place in the world at present, and 
 indeed supphes ecclesiastical and other structures in most foreign countries 
 with them. 
 
 General Post-Office, the aspect of which is more or less familiar, even 
 to those who have never before been in Dublin, inasmuch as this section of 
 the city is tlie one which is most usually represented in the various engi-aved 
 views of Duljlin — stands on the west side of feackvOIe-street, occupying a 
 fi'ontage of 223 feet, and extending backwards loO feet, exclusive of the 
 large area or coach-yard to the rear. It was designed by Francis Johnson, 
 in the vice-royalty of Earl A^Tiitworth, who laid the foundation-stone in 181 o, 
 and finished in a single year, at a cost of about £5(1,000. 
 
 The Custom House (which ranks next to the Baidi, and cost £546,000), 
 is a very extensive, modern, and appropriately handsome building, univer- 
 sally admii-cd ; its fine river-fi'ont, 375 feet, w-ith Doric poitico, dome 125 
 feet high (topped by a statue of Hope, by Banks), being considered vei^,- 
 striking. ^Vithin it are canied on the work of the Government Boards of 
 Excise, Customs, Stamps, Public ^Vorks, and Poor-Law Commissioners. 
 
 The Cut Hall, best know^n as the Royal Exchange, Cork-hill, crowns 
 the height which conmiands the ■\'ista of Parliament-street, viewed from 
 which its aspect is highly sti'iking. The risitor will scarcely leave this 
 bvuldiiig without fii'st pausing to admii-e its splendid hall, whose graceful 
 proportions have been in a great degree maiTed by the closing up of the spaces 
 between the pillars which sustain the dome, in order to form offices for the 
 various departments of mimicipal bitsiness, thus saciificing much of the 
 classic beauty of this fine stractm'e to the spirit of economic convenience. 
 The spaces between the pillars are occupied by statues in mai'ble, compiising 
 one of George HI. by Van Nost, one of Thomas Drummond, late chief secre- 
 taiy for Ireland, by Hogau, one of Henry Grattan by Chanti'ey, and a colossal 
 figm-e of O'ConneU by Hogan, and also Roubillac's celebrated statue of Doctor 
 Lucas ; the whole group forming an interesting study for the lover of art. 
 Returning through the handsome thoi'oughfare of Dame-sti'eet, we come at 
 once into the most striking part of Centi-al Dublin. Right before us stands 
 the venerable fi'ont of Trinity College. In the centi'e of College Green, 
 elevated on a lofty pedestal, is the equestiian statue of William III. To 
 the left, and fonuing the entii'e side of College Green on that side, is the 
 magnificent 
 
 Bank of Ireland, where fomierly assembled the Irish Parliament. Com- 
 menced in Lord Caiteret's vice-royalty, it was completed in ten years, but 
 foimd too small, and the eastern and western ft'onts added. The whole was 
 finished in 1794, at a cost of £95,000 ; and when, in 1800, the act of the 
 Legislative Union was passed, the sti'uctm-e was pmx-hased by the Bank of 
 Ireland Company for the sti'angely small sum of £4,000, with a rent of £240 
 a year. Since then. Bank business has been carried on here, and as a bank 
 establishment all that is to be obsen-ed is, that the building is unique in this 
 respect, that it is semi-cii'cidai- in its fi-ontage, being consti"uct«d in reference 
 to its peculiar site, and that site being the comer of a sti'eet. Professional 
 architects of all nations have rivalled one another in their eulogies of the 
 remarkable beauty of its exterior ; but the interior, in its aiTangements, betrays 
 many incongniities. Exti'aordinaiy as it may seem, the original aix-hitect is 
 unknown. 
 
 Trinity College. — The buUdings of the University of Ii-eland consist of
 
 DUBLIN CITY. 5 
 
 three spacious quadi'angles, comprising, as separate buildings, the Chapel, 
 designed by Sir W. Chambers; — the llefectorj% in the dining-hall of which 
 are the well-known portraits of Flood, Bm-gli, Grattan, and other eminent 
 Irishmen ; — the Library, one of the finest rooms in Em-ope applied to that 
 ])m'pose, and containing '.0,000 volumes, there being in addition the Fagel 
 Library (i 8,000 volumes), a celebrated Holland collection purchased by the 
 University ; — and a Manuscrijit l{oom, crowded with valuable records, in 
 particulai' relating to Irisli history, including a copy of the Brehon Ijaws, 
 Mary Queen of Scots' Sallust of the 15th centmy, with her name and Queen 
 Victoria's in it ; Book of Kells, with Victoria and Albert's names ; Wick- 
 lifte's MSS., etc. ; also Brian Boru's oak harp, 32 inches high ; — the Magnetic 
 Observatory, the Printing House, the large building devoted to the accom- 
 modation of students, and several smaller edifices, the whole abutting on, 
 and partly enclosed in gardens, and what is called the College Park, a space 
 of about 20 acres. The Museum is open to strangers presenting their cards, 
 and among many extraorilinaiy rarities, it boasts three most perfect skeletons 
 of the great fossil deer of Ireland (two males and a female), and a series of 
 ]iorns of tliis mighty mamal from an early age to the maximum size ; and 
 here also is to be seen the largest collection of Iiish bii'ds and fishes yet 
 ])rought together. 
 
 The College, founded by Queen Elizabeth, dates fi-om 1592. Its privileges 
 and endowments have been greatly increased by subsequent monarchs ; and 
 there are now on the foundation the Provost, 7 Senior Fellows, 23 Junior 
 Fellows (besides 4 Fellowships, and 6 Fellowships and Lectureships recently 
 founded by the College), professors of di^-inity, law, medicine, history, and 
 mathematics, and of various ancient and modern languages, 75 scholars, and 
 30 sizars. The students have increased of late years, and now range between 
 1.3(i0 and 1,400. The University is open to all creeds. Unlike Oxford and 
 Cambridge, the Fellows are alloAved to marry — -a boon conferred by her 
 jiresent gracious Majesty, and extensively availed of. The University returns 
 two members to Parliament, namely, Mr. Napier, late Irish Attorney- General 
 (a pupil in rhetoric of his celebrated coiuitryman, ^heridan Knowles, author 
 ,,.{• " Vii-ginius,"' "The Hunchback," etc.), 'and Mr. G. A. Hamilton, late 
 "'ocrctaiy to the Treasiu-y, and formerly an eminent member of this Alma 
 -Mater. 
 
 Our glance at Dublin now must embrace very heterogeneous objects, for it 
 is outside of the capital that cm' province of guide really begins. In the 
 neighboui'hood of the College is the Royal Iiish Institution, a handsome 
 building, originally erected for the exhibition of painting, and is at present 
 identified with the sister art — nuisic — it being here that the Wilhem vocal 
 system is carried on, under the direction of Professor Glover. In Kildai'e- 
 street, not tiir from the College and Bank, the halls of the Royal Society of 
 Dublin claim attention, in the great variety of cmiosities, pictures, and 
 models, with \\hich they are filled. 
 
 The Castle, the ancient seat of the vice-regal government, to wdiich 
 7 umours of plots and insm-rcctions have been so often brought by terror- 
 stricken spies or remorseful participators, is in the midst of tlie old or southern 
 division of the city. It consists of two com-ts, containing certain public 
 iiffices, and the apartments of state used by the Lord-Lieutenant. In the 
 I'lwer com-t is the charming Gothic Castle Chapel, a beautifully-constructed 
 iiud beautifully-fiu-nished modem place of worship, the whole materials of 
 which aie of Irish production, and wliich cost above £40,000. 'i he service
 
 6 DUBLIN CITY. 
 
 performed here every Sunday forenoon, graced as it is by the finest vocal aftd 
 instrumental music, while a rich " religious light " streams through stained 
 windows, and is reflected from the gorgeous stalls of civil and ecclesiastical 
 dignitaiies, is one of the most attractive things in Dublin. The state-apart- 
 ments are in the taste of the middle of the last centm-y, and are elegant, but 
 not conspicuous for grandeur. In one is a bust of Chestei-ficld, Lord- 
 Lieutenant in 1715. The ball-room, St. Patrick's Hall, is spacious, the 
 celling ornamented with pictm-es, representing transactions in local history. 
 
 In Ireland, old ecclesiastical structuiTs are usually more cuiious for anti- 
 quity than beauty. Accordingly, the exterior of St. Patrick's and Christ 
 Church, the two cathedrals of Dublin, appears imgainly to an eye fresh from 
 Westminster or Melrose. In the foi-mer, nevertheless, the interior of the 
 choir impresses eveiy mind by its lofty proportions, its solemn monuments, 
 and the dark stalls and niches, sui'mountcd with helmets and banners of 
 knights of St. Patrick. The predomincnt thought is — Swift. We look for 
 his dwelling as we approach, and for his tomb when we enter — such is the 
 power which genius has of fixing the feelings of men for all time upon every 
 external thing connected with it ! The deanery still exists in St. Kevin- 
 street, containing the porti'ait of Swift, fi'om which aU the engraved like- 
 nesses have been derived. The streets immediately suiTounding St. Patrick's 
 Cathedral are the meanest and vilest in the city. 
 
 At the western extremity of Dublin, north of the river, is the celebrated 
 Phoenix Park, about 1,400 acres, greatly exceeding any in London, and it 
 is questionable if even the Regent's Park, after all the expense incmTcd, will 
 ever match this domain in beauty. The ground is undulating, covered with 
 fine old timber and shrubbery, amidst which are the domestic residences of 
 the Lord-Lieutenant and principal officers, and a tall unsightly imfinished 
 obelisk in honour of AYellington. An admhable Zoological Garden has 
 lately been added to the other attractions of the Park, respecting wliich, and 
 the aspect of Dublin generally, we must quote Sh' Francis Head : — " What I 
 most admired are its magnificent lungs. In a fom'-mile heat it would 
 inevitably beat any metropohs on the surface of the globe. One of its lungs 
 has an area of not less than seventeen acres, while the other is composed of 
 large healthy squares of fi'om twelve to ten, eight, and six acres each. 
 There may be a want of trade, a want of mianimity, a want of brotherly love 
 between this creed and that — there may even be a want of potatoes — but 
 there is no w' ant in Dublin, and there never can be, of an abundant supply of 
 good, wholesome, pure aii'." 
 
 Institutions and Trade, &c. — Dublin possesses a number of beneficiary 
 institutions, conducted on a scale of great hberality ; likewise several reUgious 
 and educational societies, whose operations are extended over the whole 
 kingdom. The ti'ade refers chiefly to home consumption ; and is not dis- 
 tinguished as the seat of any manufactm-e, excepting tabinets or poplins. 
 For these it is justly eminent ; and, pre-eminent amongst numerous deserving 
 competitors, stands the celebrated house of Atkinson, College-green, whose 
 tnateriel, workmanship, and continuous novelty of design, eliciting, as they 
 so worthily did on the occasion of the late Royal visit, the marked personal 
 approbation of her Majesty, have earned the fame of the country for these 
 pecvdiar commodities to a greater height, and in a more universal circle, 
 even than at any previous period. Like MulhoUand's in the hnen trade, at 
 P)elfast, Atkinson's is the great name in the pophn and tabinet trade of 
 Dublin. The business-promptitude and punctuahty of their ti"ansactions,
 
 DUBLIN CITY. 7 
 
 and the liberality of their dealings, most favovu'ahly impress all customers, 
 whUe their courtesy in explainini;- the process of manufacture to iiiquu-ers 
 not purchasmg affords to the stranger an exalted, but only an accui'ate idea, 
 of the uiteUigent communicativeness of the Dublin boun/eoisie. Messrs. 
 Atldnson's productions have ever found marked favom- with the English 
 nobility, more especially among the Royal Family, and, in a particular 
 degree, from her Majesty herself, who not only gives large orders on the 
 occasions of her visits to the Irish metropolis, but evinces her appreciation 
 of their fabrics by wearing them on state occasions ; as, for instance, at the 
 levee in March last, her train was composed of a poplin, \\'ith the rose, 
 thistle, and shamrock elaborately tissued in gold ; and at the fii-st drawing- 
 room of the present season she appeared in another di-ess of the same 
 material, but of a still more costly character, both procured by her last year. 
 Another species of manufactiu-e for which Dublin is justly famous is that in 
 bog-oak, arbutus, and Killarney woods. In these. Mr. Goggins, of Nassau- 
 street, holds the same rank as Atldnson, in tabinets. In om* last year's 
 edition, under the head of Killarney, we said that his " manufactory was on 
 so very extensive a scale, and abounded in such varied evidences of artistic 
 taste and judgment in the adaptation of the material, as to constitute the 
 workshops one of the lions of the city. The establishment has now been 
 carried on upwards of a quarter of a century, superintended by the pro- 
 prietor himself, to whose courtesy we refer the toui'ist either on arriving in 
 Dubhn, or returning tliither from the south." Since then his ijroductions at 
 the Irish Exhibition have carried his reiJutation far higher than before. Some 
 specimens of tables and general cabinet-ware, in particular, almost rival 
 the finest buhl and marquetrie, owing to the combinations and contrasts of 
 the various woods for inlaying, the exquisite polish of wliich they are 
 susceptible, and the rare ingenuity and finish that distinguished the work- 
 manship, which might challenge comparison with Chinese ivory carving ; 
 the designs, too, being most graceful and appropriate to the uses of the 
 articles, some of which have been deemed remarkable enough to be engraved 
 in the higher class illustrated English periodicals, where they deservedly 
 excited much admiration. A tliu-d branch of native manufactm-e, that in 
 brooches, copied in silver or gold from the ancient Irish, is carried to great 
 perfection by Messrs. Waterhouse, the Queen's silversmiths, who have 
 created quite an extensive trade by then- modern revival of tins exquisite 
 antique hijouterie, which has the merit not only of being " beautiful exceed- 
 ingly " in itself, and altogether unlike what is to be met wath anywhere 
 else, but show to them, in the most unmistakable manner, the high state of 
 civilisation, refinement, and luxm-y the Irish had attained at a period 
 when England had hardly emerged from the incipient stages of utter bar- 
 barism. Not only in elegance of form and costliness of composition, but in 
 delicaey of execution, the Templar and Tara and other brooches reproduced 
 by Messrs. Waterhouse, rival the finest ancient Byzantine, Maltese, or 
 Venetian handicraft of a like kind ; and the marked patronage bestowed 
 upon them by her Majesty and Prince Albert, both in 18o2 and again, still 
 more emphatically, last year, should alone stamp their character as works 
 of art, independent of theii- otherwise great popularity, not only among the 
 native nobility, but those of Great Britain and many on the continent, includ- 
 ing the Empress of the French — herself, indeed, of Irish descent. Generally 
 speaking, the larger shops in the Irish metropolis are distinguished by much 
 splendour and taste, as we have already said m describing the leviathan
 
 8 DUBLIN CITY. 
 
 cara%-ansary in Sackvillc-strcet, in a jji-cceding page. Some of them equal 
 the very finest in London, and eclipse those of any city in England or 
 Scotland, unless perhaps it he Jeffery and Morrish's superb and most multi- 
 farious pile of mercantile edifices in Llreri>iH)l, known as Compton Iloiiae, 
 the extent and magiiifieence of whose imposing- exterior are only surpassed 
 by the endless variety and profusion of its contents, and the perfectly system- 
 atised order and siraphcity that pervade its vast labyrinthiiie compartments, 
 
 LONG HOLE, IRELAND S EYE, SCENE OF THE KIRWAN MVRDER. DRAWN BY MAJIONY. 
 
 each an extensive department in itself, and forming in the aggregate 
 probably the most com})lete illustration of the admmistiative genius of ret<ul 
 trade to be found in this " nation of shopkeepers." There is small foreign 
 export from Dublin. Its pruicipal imports are — timber, from the Baltic ; 
 tallow, hemp, and tai', fi-om Eussia, at an end for the present ; "sviiie and 
 fruits, fi'om France, Spaui, and Portugal ; tobacco, bai'k, and spices, from 
 Holland ; and sugar from the West Indies. ThcM^e, however, are increasing.
 
 -'S^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
 10 DUBLIN CITY. 
 
 ;vud especially the important commerce with England, cmefly through Liver- 
 {)ool, to whose market there are now vast exports of native produce. 
 Though the LiS'ey forms the port, vessels of large burden and steamboats 
 prefer Kingston Harbour (formerly Duuleary), at the mouth of the bay, 
 which is constractcd on a magnificent scale, and is readily reached by 
 railway (as elsewhere explained). At the opposite side of the bay from 
 Kingston is Howth, whose celebrated " Hill " forms a veiy distinguishing 
 landmark. This, with other features of that locahty, w Ul be found described 
 in the Wicklow chapter. The Uttle islet at one side of the entrance of 
 Dublin Bay, called " Ireland's Eye," was the scene of a well-known tragedy, 
 the remembrance of which is sufficiently vivid to render it needless that we 
 should do more than leave oiu- artist to indicate its whereabouts. Should 
 the tom-ist desii'e to inspect the scene of the atrocious occuiTence, he will 
 proceed to the terminus of the Dublin and Drogheda KaUway, which has a 
 branch line to Howth, north-east of the city, eight miles distant, and remarka- 
 ble in many respects for position and baronial and ecclesiastical ruins. Howth 
 Castle, the residence of the earls of that name since the reign of Henry II., 
 contains the sword of Tristram, the Dane-destrojing foimder of the family : 
 the portrait of S\vift, and many other interesting objects. Near it are the 
 i-uins of St. Mary's ('hm'ch (1228) ; and the alleged abbey, close to the sea, 
 is said to have been fomided (though it must have been much later), by 
 Sitric the Dane, in 1038, whose comitrymcn committed teriible havoc all 
 along these shores. The large but now long-disused harbour of Howth, 
 where George IV. landed in 1821 , has cost nearly half a miUion since Rennie 
 began it m 1807. Om- Northern tour makes further mention of the A-ici- 
 nage ; and here we merely add that fi'om the high-road leading from the 
 church to the town, the tourist may obtain beautiful views of the adjacent 
 coast ; also of Ireland's Eye, a mile from Howth harbour, and access to it 
 can readily be had by boats. It is about a mile in circumference, principally 
 composed of quartz ; rises p^Tamidically to a considerable elevation, and 
 contains the ruins of a very small ancient building, said to have been 
 erected in 570, by St. Nessan ; also a martello tower. The lower lands 
 afford good pastm'age ; and seals and sca-bu'ds frequent the rocks. 
 
 Howth has more recently been rendered again painfully interesting by 
 the wi"eck of the Queen Victoria steamer, from Liverpool to Dublin, on the 
 night of the 15th of February, 1853, she having ran on shore on the rocks 
 outside the Bailey hght-house during a tremendous snow-storm. Nearly sixty 
 persons, including the captain (Church), perished ; and almost as many 
 more would have been lost but for the fortunate assistance rendered by the 
 Roscommon, DubUn and Holyhead steamer, and the bravery of some of the 
 passengers. A new hotel has been built at Howth by Mr. Costelloe, under 
 the patronage of the noble proprietor of the district, conducted on an 
 extensive and admirable scale, and designed for the especial comfort and 
 accommodation of tourist visitors. The site commands superb views of the 
 bay scenery, and its general arrangements are of the best order, as multi- 
 tudinous \dsitors foimd last year during the Dublin Exhibition. 
 
 The tourist, who desu'cs to make the best use of his time, will commence 
 an early acquaintance with the Irish jaunting-car, which may be liii'ed at 
 reasonable rates. Cabriolets, on the London plan, have been inti-oduced 
 lately, and, for many pm-poses, are preferable to the cai'S ; but the old 
 national vehicle still continues a favourite \\ith many. 
 
 Returning thus to the Irish capital, but only for a valedictory word, we
 
 DIBLIN CITY. 1 1 
 
 have merely to add that the resident gentry of Dublin now amount to about 
 i!,000 families, including clergymen and physicians, besides nearly an equal 
 number of lawyers and attorneys, who principally reside there. The families 
 engaged in trade and commerce are calculated at about 6,000, and the whole 
 may yield a population of 60,000 or 'i 0,000 in the higher and middle ranks. 
 The change which has taken place, even were it injm-ious to commercial 
 prosperity, has, perhaps, in an equal proportion, proved beneficial to public 
 morals ; the general character of the inhabitants, once gay and dissipated, is 
 now more serious and rehgious, and sums formerly lavished on expensive 
 pleasm-es are now converted to more exalted pm-poses. Formerly there were 
 seven theatres well-supported; at present, the only one which remains — a 
 very elegant one, wherein the di'ama has ever been worthily represented — is 
 thinly attended. Club-houses and gammg-tables are nearly deserted; and 
 even among the lower classes, vice of every kind has visibly diminished. 
 In 18.51, the population was 201,155; in 1841, it was 2o8,3oi ; in 1851, 
 254,850. 
 
 In respect to the Exhibition itself, the unparalleled munificence of its 
 projector, Mr. William Dargan, the royal recognition of his patriotism and 
 liberality, by the visit of the Queen and Prince Albert to his private resi- 
 dence, and the various other memorable incidents in connexion with the 
 objects and the results of the undertaking— these are matters of history, 
 known to the whole reading public of the United Kingdom ; and they who 
 desire to refresh their memory with the details, are referred to the admira- 
 ble little volume of the head financial officer, Mr. T. P. Jones, entitled, 
 " The Record of the Great Industrial Exhibition," which in itself is a record 
 of industrial skill, ingenuity, and good taste, in every way worthy of the 
 transactions it so modestly, but so lucidly commemorates. 
 
 This at least demonstrates that, notwithstanding the exodus,* its depopu- 
 lating effect has not yet been very perniciously felt in the capital ; while the 
 progressing mercantile prosperity of the trading and operative classes reprove 
 the dictum of the great oracle of political economy, Mr. M'Culloch, who 
 assigns for the decay of Dublin the apparently-cogent reason, that it has no 
 requisite for the successful piusuit of manufactm-es, being without coal and 
 without the command of water-power. 
 
 With these observations we must now remit the reader to a personal 
 perambulation of the Irish capital, preceded, or otherwise, as he may feel 
 disposed, by a perusal of the more diffuse local pubhcations spoken of. For 
 the submbs of DubUn, we refer to the four routes leading through them. 
 We ought to mention — and it is to be regretted that George Robins is not 
 alive to appreciate the compliment so conveyed to that finest of fine arts— 
 advertising — that the Irish hotel-keepers, in their numerous announcements 
 at the end of tliis volume, have communicated exceedingly useful infor- 
 mation to tourists, who, whenever at a loss for instruction for the exploratio)i 
 of any particular neighboiuliood, cannot do better than resort to the hotel- 
 keeper. Unlike liis tribe elsewhere, the Hibernian Boniface is by no means 
 miiformly influenced by personal considerations when his assistance is so 
 sought by the sti'anger. 
 
 * A new stimulus and a new direction have lately been imparted to Irish emigra- 
 tion by the conviction which long and multiplied experience has afforded, that Canada 
 is the true Promised Land for the British, and especially the Irish labourer, and, 
 unlike Australia, may be cheaply and speedily reached.
 
 FIRST TOUR.-WICKLOW. 
 
 WICKLOW has ever been looked upon as the garden of Ireland. And it 
 is likely to remain the inviolate paradise of the picturesque, without much 
 fear of the obtrusion of that demon of utilitarianism which afirighted the 
 dying muse of the bard of Kydal in the shape of the Kendal and Win- 
 dermere : — ■ 
 
 Is, then, no nook of British ground secure 
 
 From rash assault ? Schemes of retirement sown 
 
 In youth, and 'mid the busy world kept pure. 
 
 As when their earliest flowers of hope were blown, 
 
 Must perish ; how can they this blight endure ? 
 
 Plead for thy peace, thou beautiful romance 
 
 Of nature ; and, if human hearts be dead. 
 
 Speak, passing winds ; ye torrents, with your strong 
 
 ^nd constant voice, protest against the wrong. 
 
 True, a railway is now completed into "Wicklow ; but it will still leave its 
 peculiar featiu-es secure from the profanation ajiprehended by the poet. 
 
 The district of VVicklow County is the one to which attention is in most 
 instances first directed after arrival in Dublin. If landing from Holyhead 
 in the day-time, we watch with delight the magnificent Bay, the harboiu- 
 of Kingstown, and the bold headland of Bray beetling over the waves. 
 On the other side of the Bay looms the rounded promontory of Howth. 
 Avith its snug harbour and picturesque lighthouse. Having arrived in 
 Dublin, and being about to enter Wicklow, the stranger has but to proceed 
 to the terminus of the Dublin and Wicklow Ptailway, now just completed. 
 Proceeding by this line, it is optional to leave the train at any of the 
 intermediate stations, for the purpose of exploring the various remarkable 
 localities. The central course pursued by the rail brings us within short 
 distances of all the storied spots in this fine county cekbrated for scenic 
 beauty or antiquarian relics. It is competent, after making each detour of 
 this kind, to return to the station where the traveller may have got oiit, or 
 advance to a station further on, according as distance or convenience may 
 suggest. Where time is an object, this railway presents fcatiu-es entitling 
 it to preference as a means of seeing Wicklow scenery, and of enjoying 
 views of its many attractions within the briefest possible period. By it 
 tourists may proceed at once to either Roundwood, Xew-Town Mount- 
 Kennedy, or any of- the other towns in the inuncdiate neighbourhood of the 
 lions of Wicklow, where ample accommodation can be found, and thus the 
 time usually spent by the more tedious as well as expensive route by rail 
 and car to Bray be avoided; thus enabling those pressed for time to 
 economise the day usually spent at Bray (where, after all, but little is to be 
 seen), inspect all that is really worthy of seeing, and return either the same 
 night or next moniing. ^
 
 14 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 
 
 Another route is that by the Dublin and Kingstown Railway to Kings- 
 town, and thence onwards to Bray, in the vicinity of which the first 
 t^Iinipses of the romantic scenery of Wicklow are caught. Twenty minutes 
 by railway brings us to Kingstown, from whence we may proceed by 
 omnibus or car to Bray, whence the tourist can penetrate into the centre of 
 the loveliest scenes in Wicklow. If we aiTive in Kingstown too late for the 
 omnibus, two or three jaunting-cars are generally watching to pick up a 
 return-fare to Bray. But it is worth waiting an hour or two, until the 
 starting of the next omnibus, to inspect Kingstown Harbour, perhaps to 
 witness the departure from the jetty of the steamer with the mail for 
 Holyhead, and enjoy many delightful views of the Bay and opposite coast ; 
 but, above all, no visitor should neglect proceeding to the heights of Dalkey 
 by the Atmospheric Railway. This ingenious adaptation of the air-pump 
 to the conveyance (at a rate limited only by prudence and the shortness of 
 the trip) of heavy trains, containing hundreds of passengers, challenges 
 the curiosity of the visitor, especially as the Dalkey is the only atmospheric 
 line now at work in the world, and twopence entitles you to a trip. Not- 
 withstanding the failure of the principle on an extensive scale in England, 
 some of our ablest sai-ans believe it will yet realise all the original anticipa- 
 tions. It was elaborated here by Mr. J. Pirn, and commenced work as 
 a continuation of the Kingstown in 1844. The line (single) takes its course 
 from the Kingstown terminus, through a deep, narrow cutting, over which 
 are numerous bridges, directly upwards to the high ground of Dalkey. 
 In the centre of the tramway, sunk to a convenient level, is a vast iron 
 tube or main-pipe, the air from which is exhausted by a steam-engine at 
 Dalkey. The trains are whirled up-hill with great rapidity, and return 
 with nearly equal swiftness by the mere momentum down-hill. 
 
 At Dalkey are the granite quarries whence have been procured the 
 massive cubes forming the Avails of Kingstown Harbour. The summit of 
 Kiiliney Hill affords one of the finest coast views imaginable. A return 
 on foot by the sea-side road presents a view of 1 )alkey Island and Sound — 
 through the fishing village of Bullock — not forgetting an inspection of the 
 fine old pile, Bullock castle — along the shore to Kingstown ; where, by the 
 time we arrive from the cUtour to Dalkey, we find the Bray omnibus about 
 to start. In the winter this travels by the cross-road from Kingstown to 
 the mail-coach line at Cabinteely ; but in summer through Rochestown 
 Avenue, a thickly-wooded vista, along the base of Kiiliney Hill to the 
 hamlet of Shaaganagh, where the roads converge. Thus we are enabled 
 to behold a vast tract, the views from along the western slopes of Kiiliney 
 Hill being highly interesting ; and no less so are the singularly attractive 
 remains of the church. If, perchance, accompanied to Dalkey by a middle- 
 aged or elderly citizen of Dublin, the stranger will hear strange Irish tales, 
 especially of Ireland Sixtj/ Years Af/o — \_Vide the interesting little book 
 of that name] — in connexion with this once famous focus of metropolitaii 
 conviviality, where was established the " Kingdom of Dalkey," under the 
 " Emperor of the Muglins," elected annually, and the ceremony duly 
 reported in the Dalkey Gazette. But many an English reader is already 
 familiar with the incidents of these comic hilarities, from the preface to 
 Moore's last edition of his works, wherein the bard tells us how, on one 
 memorable occasion, Incledon was knighted as " Sir Charles Melody" by 
 the " August Muglins," who, the following morning, offered a large reward 
 in cronebanes (Irish halfpence) to the finder of his Majesty's crown, which,
 
 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 15 
 
 owiiig to bis having " measured both sides of the road" in his pedestrian 
 progress the preceding night, had, unluckily, fallen from the royal brow . 
 A casual inspection of Dalkey will also be pertinent in these times of 
 warlike apprehension, not only because the diminutive island was once 
 defended by no less than seven castles, three of which remain, but because 
 the traveller, fresh, mayhap, from Cockneydom, will here make an 
 acquaintance with martello-towers — once considered a potent repellant of 
 external aggression, and which may again, probably, become a popular 
 specific against Kussian invasion, and for other reasons needless to be 
 uamed. 
 
 The second route to Bray is the road through Ballsbridge, Merrion, 
 Williamstown, and Blackrock — where it branches off from the coast, and 
 taking a more southerly direction, leads through the village of Cabinteely, 
 in whose neighbourhood are charming villa residences, and an interesting- 
 cromlech, or Druids' altar, in fine preservation. As described in Wakeman's 
 " Irish Antiquities," and depicted by our artist, its dimensions are con- 
 siderable. The covering stone measures in length nine, in breadth seven, 
 and in thickness three and-a-half feet, and is supported on four stones, the 
 highest part being nine feet above the level of the adjoining field. From 
 the road beyond Cabinteely, are fine views of the Three-rock mountain, 
 and of the bold ridge of Shankhill. Soon after passing Cabinteely cross- 
 roads comes a vast common, of about 120 acres, the British encampment in 
 1795, and where also the army of James II. bivouaced five days after the 
 battle of the Boyne, and on the brow of Shankhill mountain is a ruin 
 called " Puck's Castle," wherein he is said to have rested during that time. 
 Passing by the ancient ruins of TuUy Church, and numerous Diuidical and 
 other antiquarian remains, we soon arrive at Loughlins-town, on the hill 
 above which is the workhouse, not quite so destructive of the pictui-esque as 
 its unromantic associations might suggest. From this slope we view the 
 rich villa-studded plain towards Bray. To the left, Killiney Hill, Dalkev 
 Island, a section of the Bay, with Howth in the distance : to the right, the 
 wooded heights of Old Connaught, with its patrician residences peeping 
 from lofty and antique trees, whose leafy verdure so fitly symbolised the 
 green old age of the most distinguished resident amongst them — the 
 patriarchal Plunket, who at ninety fully retained those extraordinary 
 faculties that commanded the admiration of three successive generations, 
 until the present year, 1SJ4. Onwards through a lovely country, we pass 
 the handsome church and village of Little Bray ; and, finally, crossing the 
 river dividing "Wicklow and Dublin, we arrive at the town of Bray, whicli 
 in itself contains little to interest the traveller, whatever may be said of the 
 beauty of the vicinage. 
 
 Another road from Dublin to Bray passes through renowned Donnv- 
 brook, and Stillorgan, joining the other roads at Cabinteely. Along it "at 
 the Dublin side arc the beautiful demesnes of Nutley, tVJontrose, Woodville, 
 St. Helen's, The Priory, Stillorgan- park, Carysport, Leopardstown, &c. At 
 a long distance to the right, on this road, may be seen an obelisk, 100 feet 
 in height, built by Sir Pigot Piers, Bart., in 1740, for the sole purpose of 
 emplojdng the poor, setting an example, of which mention will be made 
 hereafter. 
 
 Bray Proper is a straggling kind of village of the better sort, pos- 
 sessing few or no evidences of industrial activity. The houses of the 
 principal street are so built as to shut out the sea- view. Bi-ay and its
 
 18 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW, 
 
 vicinity are chiefly remarkable as constituting the sojour of newly -mai-ried 
 couples— when the chai'ges of taverns and lodging-house keepers are 
 graduated according to the observable intensity of affection and mutual 
 bliss evinced by each happy pair ; so that everything in Bray is — Dear, 
 dearer, and dearest. 
 
 The following programme is submitted of a four days' tour — the tourist 
 having the option of returning each evening to Dublin by railway : — 
 1st Day — From Bray to the Dargle, through Powerscourt demesne to 
 Lough Bray, "Waterfall, Killough, through Hollybrook (house and de- 
 mesne), roimd Bray Head, and into Dublin. lind Day — From Bray 
 through Ivilruddeiy demesne, through Bellevue demesne, Glen of Downs, 
 Tinnypark, Hermitage demesne. Devil's Glen, and Newrath Bridge. 
 3rd Day — From Newrath Bridge to Avondale, Castle Howard, Shelton 
 Abbey, round by Arklow to Ballyarthur, and to the Wooden Bridge. 
 4th Day — From Wooden Bridge through Vale of Ovoca, Meeting of Waters, 
 Rathdrum, Vale of Clara, Seven Churches, Luggelaw, thence by Sugar 
 Loaf to Dublin. 
 
 For the benefit of excursion ticket-holders, we will here address ourselves 
 to the consideration of these several localities : — 
 
 The DaRgle. — The journey to this loveliest of sylvan solitudes should 
 be commenced at an early hour. The tourist is conveyed over Bray 
 bridge, and travels for a short space through a section of the extreme eastern 
 end of the coimty of Dublin. He drives along the mail-coach road for 
 about two miles, and then diverges into the road leading to the Dargle, 
 passing the jncturesque grounds and mansion of the Hon. Justice Crampton, 
 and the elegant villa and plantations of the Right Hon. Sidney Herbert, M .P. 
 for Wilts, and Secretary at War, who possesses lai'ge property in Dublin 
 and Wicklow, and administers it with Hberality and discrimination. We 
 soon reach the Dargle — so called from the wild mountain-stream gushing 
 tlu'ough its weird and beautiful glen, and which is formed by two pre- 
 cipitous hills, clothed from base to apex with oak woods, and an under- 
 growth of laurestinus and wild mp'tle, amidst wliich the dog-rose, the 
 sweetbriar, and wild woodbine, spread their tendrils. The close approach 
 of the two sides of this ravine, and the vast depth of its leafy solitudes, 
 confer upon it features amounting almost to sublimity. The dense verdure, 
 interspersed with jutting rocks, leaving but dim glimpses visible of the 
 blue sky, added to the roar of the flood, rushing luisecn amidst the crags 
 beneath, contribute to the sombre grandeur of the scene. Midway in the 
 wooded depths of the ravine shoots up a lofty cliff', covered with mosses and 
 creeping plants. This cliff" at its summit projects across the glen, forming 
 the section of an arch, toppling over the gloomy chasm, where the torrent 
 rushes through. It is known as " The Lover's Leap," and, as its name 
 imports, has a romantic story attached. It is accessible by a Avinding path, 
 and when gained, the view commands the extent of this richly -wooded dell. 
 Lower doAvu, on the side of the glen, is a rustic seat, thatched over, whence 
 you i-iew a scene of demi-Appenine grandeur. Below yawns a vast chasm, 
 down which leaps headlong a foaming torrent, its fall far beneath being 
 hidden amidst the foliage on either side. Above, tier over tier, rise to an 
 immense height, thickets of evergreen oak, fir, and larch. Simshine 
 glancing downwards obliquely through this Irish " Valambrosa " — through 
 the flickering leaves, and flashing far below amidst the half-liidden waters 
 — is surpassingly beautiful. That we may guard against the imputation of
 
 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 19 
 
 rhapsodising, we adduce the fastidious testimony of Mr. Barrow, who, 
 though speaking disdainfully indeed, as we shall see presently, of many 
 local lions, says : " I was more pleased with the Dargle than anything I 
 had seen in \V'icklow. It is by far the most beautiful of those several 
 disruptions of the mountains that I have just spoken of. It would be 
 impossible to convey an idea of the beauty of the blended colouring when 
 the autumnal tints are upon the trees." The glen gave shelter to the bards 
 in the reign of the Third Edward, who persecuted them, because of their 
 exciting lyrics calling their countrymen to resist British aggression. 
 
 PowERSCOURT,— In the vicinity are Lord Powerscourt's tine pleasure- 
 grounds and house, the most famous attribute of which is the Waterfall, 
 one hundred feet high, two miles and a half from the mansion. When 
 the river is not swollen, the rock is seen in transparency through the 
 thin sheet of water; but after rains the "tumultuous fury of the flood" 
 lias something grand in its beauty — an effect which the profound seclusion 
 and the surrounding woods heighten. Nature has here, indeed, scattered 
 beauties with profusest hand ; but those who have seen her sterner and 
 loftier moods are not so astounded at the aspect she puts on here as are 
 more domesticated enthusiasts, among whom we class our humble selves. 
 For instance, Mr. Barrow, whom no conventional cant ever lui-es into 
 the repetition of stereotyped impromptu, thus unsophisticatcdly dissipates 
 the poetry where^vith home-bred travellers invest this place, at least in 
 description, if they do not feel all they utter. He says : — " Of the Water- 
 fall, so much extolled by tomists, I thought so little, after the beautiful 
 falls I had seen in Sweden and Norway, that when the driver suddenly 
 stopped, and called my attention to it, 'Is that all?' quoth I 'Yes, 
 plase your honour ; that's all.' ' Then drive on as fast as you please,' an 
 order which seemed to amuse the di'iver exceedingly, no doubt setting me 
 down as a very tasteless traveller. It showed itself as a mere silvery 
 thread falling perpendicularly down the face of the rock. When George IV. 
 visited Powerscourt, a large reservoir was dug at the summit to give 
 temporary effect to the cascade, but he did not pay it a visit. Though the 
 water is deficient, the accompaniments of rock and wood give to it more 
 grandeur than other-\vise it could have any pretensions to." Another 
 observer, Inglis, noted for truthfulness, and familiar, like Barrow, with 
 north of Europe scenery, says : " Powerscourt, whose Waterfall, so much 
 extolled by the Guide Books, pleased me less than the fine veget-ition 
 and magnificent timber on the domain through which the road is con- 
 structed." But both these distinguished travellers, and, indeed, all others, 
 are unanimous in admiration of beautiful Powerscourt itself, environed with 
 mountains, and possessing every charm of scenery which space, situation, 
 hill and dale, wood and water, can confer, and has been for more than two 
 centuries the residence of the noble Wingficld family. The mansion is of 
 granite, containing, among other fine apartments, a noble hall, eighty feet 
 liy forty, in which George IV. was entertained in 182 1 by the father of 
 the present Lord Powerscourt. The various beauties of scenery with 
 Avhich this place abounds have furnished materials for volumes, and are yet 
 far from exhausted. Mr. Frazer truly says : — " That, whether we regard 
 its mansion, with its appropriated demesne lands, the beauty and variety of 
 its surface and surrounding scenery, or its adjacent territory of 26,000 
 statute acres, with woods, rivers, and mountains — glens, valleys, dells, and 
 ravines — Powerscoui't may be ranked among the finest of Irish, or even 
 
 C 2
 
 20 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 
 
 British residences, and the deer-park in particular. Powerscourt is a 
 Barony, fom- miles south-west of Bray, and Avas anciently called Stagonil. 
 It came to the De la Poors throug-h one of Strongbow's followers, who 
 built a castle, which was taken by the O'Tooles and O'Byrnes in 1535, 
 retaken by the English, and given by Henry VIIT. to the Talbots; taken 
 by the Kavanaghs in 1 556, and given by James I. to Sir R. Wingfield in 
 1609, who was made Viscount Powerscourt." The Dowager Lady Powers- 
 court is now Marcliioness of Londonderry, and the liberality of her noble 
 lord (better known as Viscount Castlcreagh, as lie has only just succeeded to 
 the marquisate) is a sufficient guarantee that none of the customary pri- 
 vileges will be withheld from toui'ists, in regard to the house and 
 groimds. 
 
 TiNNEHiNCH Demesne. — Returning to the high-road, we pass the 
 pictm'esque little parish church, and the handsome gatevs'ay of Tinnehinch, 
 seat of the Right Hon. J. Grattan, long the favourite residence of his 
 immortal father, Henry, for whoin it was purchased by his admiring 
 countrymen. The house is situated at the base of a richly- wooded hill ; the 
 lawn extends to the bosom of a beautiful river, and the grounds around 
 have been ornamentally planted by the hands of its late gifted proprietor : — 
 
 When free from the crowd 
 In a home full of love, he delighted to tread 
 'Mong the trees which a nation had given, and which bow'd 
 As if each brought a new civic crown lor his head. 
 
 The eldest son of the patriot, the present owner, and a privy councillor of 
 Ireland, was born in 1783, and married the daughter of the sixth Earl 
 Dysart (born in 1807) ; became lieutenant in 9th Light Dragoons in 1811, 
 and was placed on half-pay in 1814; served at Walchcren and in the 
 Peninsula; was M.P. for Wicklow from 1»20 to 1841. 
 
 PiOUNDWOOD. — We now pursue our way through a somewhat wild, but 
 by no means steril or unpictm-esquc country, towards this -sallage, within 
 three miles of Lough Tay, and six of Lough Dan, the largest and most 
 admired of the inland Wicklow lakes. Embosomed in mountains, tlris 
 secluded hamlet enjoys peculiar fame as a rendezvous for brethren of the 
 angle, the Vartry aftbrding fine trout. Here also is the resting-place of the 
 thousand summer parties visiting Glcndalough and the Seven Chmx-hes, 
 there being two naost comfortable inns — charges moderate, their fare 
 excellent, and attendance no less so. But our fom--day tourist, after 
 leading the demesne of Powerscom't, proceeds along the Eniskerry-road, 
 obtaining noble moimtain A'iews, particularly at the cross-roads near 
 Gloncree Barrack, built during the Insurrection of 1798, now occupied by 
 the constabulary. Here a comprehensive view of Wicklow scenery can be 
 had ; on the north, the heights known as Prince William's Seat ; and on 
 the south, the terraced acclivities of the beautiful Douce and Warhill 
 Mountains. 
 
 One mile fm-ther on. Upper and Lower Lough Bray sliine in the sunlight 
 like molten silver amidst the dark and frowning liills, the lower lough 
 being peculiarly picturesque. In the midst of this wilderness, at the 
 moment when such a thing might be least expected, a beautiful Swiss 
 cottage rises — as if by enchantment — with its entourdijc, mocking, as it 
 were, the desolation aroimd. It was erected for Sir Pliilip Crampton, the 
 distinguished sm-geon-general, by the late Duke of Northumberland, who
 
 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 21 
 
 was ambassador-cxtraordiuaiy at tlie coronation of Charles X., and subse- 
 qucntly Lord-Licutonant of Ireland, during which viceroyalty this bijou 
 building was constructed. Having reached the extent of his first day's 
 tour, the visitor now recedes back to Bray, takmg a detuiir through a 
 charming couritry towards the sea-side again. The next object will be 
 
 HoLLYBROOK, seat of Sir George F. J. Hodson, Bart., approached 
 through an extensive tract, adorned with plantations forming vistas of the 
 mountain scenery on the one hand, and sea on the other. Here is a 
 prodigious growth of that magniticcnt tree, the Ilex semper vivens, or ever- 
 green oak ; and not less remarkable are the enormous size and imposing 
 shapes of the true Eastern cypress, here found in beautiful groups — con- 
 clusive evidences of the soil and climate of Wicklow. The mansion is 
 truly a princely retreat, in the Elizabethan style ; exliibiting in every 
 featm'e a correct and severe acUierence to tlie formal character of its jmr- 
 ticular class of architectiu'e, and iuterioiiy a model of comfort and elegance. 
 It contains attractions in pictorial and illustrative art to induce the tourist 
 to avail himself of the kincbiess of the gifted proprietor, who opens it and 
 his gi'ounds to all respectable visitors, his liberality being, fortunatelj', rarely, 
 if ever, abused. Hollybrook was once the residence of the ever-famous and 
 beloved " Kobiu Adair " — a name perliaps less likely to be forgotten than 
 that of others who have figured more conspicuously in the affairs of the 
 world, because of being identified with that most exquisite of Irish airs, 
 " Eileen 'a Koon." The long controversy as to whether it was of Irish or 
 Scotch origin must excite ciuiositj' in the enlightened visitor, tourist, or 
 musician, to see the abode of him " who made the assembly shine." An 
 old Irish harp and two drinking vessels belonging to the gentle " Kobin " 
 are here ; and it is surely not a far-fetched conceit to imagine that the 
 spirit of song and mirth once inspired by Kobin's lyre and Kobin's cup still 
 remain as characteristic types of the hospitable feeling, refined tastes, and 
 generous disposition of the present worthy descendant of the bard, the poet, 
 and the host. From the tei'race, overlooking exquisite combinations of 
 wood and water, may be seen a gothic tower erected by Sii- O. Hodson to 
 commemorate the gratitude of the people to their benefactor, viz. — A large 
 portion of the Lesser Sugar-loaf ^Mountain, the property of Sii' George, and 
 adjoining Hollybrook, was entirely undefined by mark or boundary. The 
 peasantry of the neighbom-hood, in their gratitude, assembled, and in one 
 day enclosed with a dry stone wall, five feet high, thirty-five Irish acres of 
 the mountain ! An ancient monument, sm'rounded by magnificent funeral 
 cypress, and surmounted by an ui"n chiselled by a cunning hand, may be 
 seen here, but tradition has lost the memory of him to whom it was 
 erected. Near the entrance to Hollybrook stands tl^e humble farm-house 
 where ^A'olfe is reputed to have been born, and spent the early years of 
 that life which closed so gloriously on the Heights of Abraham. No record 
 remains of the hero's boyhood here ; but the house is pointed out by the 
 peasantry in a manner indicative of the pride they feel in their county 
 giving birth to one so famous in warlike story. The truth, however, is 
 That not only was Wolfe not born here, but he was not an Irishman at all, 
 but a native of Westerham, Kent. '\^"ell might Bolingbroke, when asking 
 for his histories, exclaim, " Bring me my liars !" 
 
 Bray Head. — Within ten minutes' drive of Hollybrook stands this 
 great terminus of the massive chain of the Wicklow mountains at the sea. 
 From its summit, looking inland, are seen the Greater and Lesser Sugar-
 
 22 DLBLIN TO WICKLOW. 
 
 loaf, the Douce, and Shankill. Beneath, in quiet beauty, reposes Bray. 
 Along the coast to the northward, we have a view of Howth and the Morne 
 Mountains. To the southward, Wicklow Head stands forth a giant sentry 
 at his post ; and on a clear day, far peering out of the horizon, may be 
 discerned the Welsh mountains. The bays of Coui'town, Wicklow, and 
 Killiney form beautiful featui-es in this prospect. At the foot of Bray 
 Head may be seen the railway now being constructed to the town of 
 Wicklow. 
 
 KiLRUDDERY. — About a mile south, in a forest of evergreens, is the 
 princely seat of the Earl of Meath, for the last three centuries the residence 
 of the Brabazons. It is full of interesting recollections, being midoubtedly 
 the oldest inhabited private residence in Ireland, having been built in the 
 beginning of the 13th century, by the monks of the order of St. Victor, who 
 resided in the monastery of St. Thomas, a short distance beyond the walls of 
 Dublin. In 1539-40 many abbots and priors made surrender of their abbeys 
 and priories, with their lands and chattels, to the crown ; and in the latter 
 year the disposal of these ecclesiastical houses and properties in Ireland 
 was given to his ]\Iajesty, by act of Parliament. In 1545, Sir W. Brabazon, 
 then Lord Justice and Treasm-er of the kingdom, received a grant from 
 Henry VIII. of the monastery of St. Thomas, near Dublin, together -with 
 aU the properties as well as the jm-isdictions and Uberties thereto apper- 
 taining. A part of that property consisted of the lauds of Kikotherie, 
 comprising Little Sugar-loaf, Bray Head, and the intei'mediate vaUey, in 
 the centre of which the monks, some centuries before, had built a large 
 rural retreat, to which were attached a chapel and burial-ground, whither, 
 from their magnificent and wealthy estabhshmeut at Thomas Comt, they 
 were wont to repair for change of air and scene, as health or other 
 motives suggested. Extensive gardens, laid out in geometrical forms, with 
 clipped yew hedges and straight canal-shaped stews, surround this deli- 
 cious seclusion ; wliile beyond the gardens an extensive wood stretches along 
 the valley, wherein are four* stews, communicating with each other, of the 
 shapes of the fom- aces of cards, and terminating by a decoy ; whilst the 
 deer-park extends over the entii'e southern and eastern face of the Sugar- 
 loaf. The general arrangement of the grounds, but in particular that of 
 the gardens, of the maze, and of the straight alleys intersecting each other 
 at various angles, was religiously preserved by Sii" W. Brabazon, and indeed 
 successively by each of his descendants, in the exact form as left by the 
 monks ; so that to the present day they remain very nearly the same to aU 
 appearance as they were when under the cai-e of then' monastic originators. 
 Witliin the cu'cuit of the gai'dens, and adjacent to the bowling-green, stands 
 a row of the finest evergreen oaks in the United Kingdom, foui' hundred 
 yeai's old, many of the yew hedges being not of much more recent date. 
 The winding walks and intricacies of the maze no longer exist ; nor, unfor- 
 tunately, do the magnificent bay trees that used to fonn its principal atti'ac- 
 tion, most of them haAdng been laid prostrate by the great storm of 1839, 
 many measming from twelve to fom'teen, and even some to fifteen feet in 
 circmnference, at about three or four feet from the ground. Those that 
 escaped then were blown down by the hui'ricane of Christmas night, 1 852 ; 
 but of aU the losses on that night the greatest was that of by far the largest 
 of the evergreen oaks, twenty-three feet in circumference at three feet from 
 the ground. At a short distance fr'om the house are the remains of a sylvan 
 theatre, cut out of the side of a bank. It has been alwajs considered by the
 
 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 23 
 
 family to be or"cbTisMei'able antiquity ; aud Sii* "\A''altcr Scott, wlio visited it 
 with great interest, has made nreation of it in a note to " St. Konan's AYell." 
 A very few yards from this theatre is a cu'cular jjond, smTouuded by a liigh 
 clipped hedge of hornbean, in the thickness of which are nmnerous small 
 chambers. To these it was customary in former days — aud it is to be sup- 
 posed dm-ing more genial suimncrs than we are now favom-ed with — for both 
 actors and audience to adjourn for supper, each httle alcove containing its 
 own select coterie ; and great, as tradition runs, was the merriment of those 
 evenings. The house is in the Elizabethan style, sm-rounded by terraces on 
 different elevations. From the outer hall, fitted up with ancient armom", a 
 flight of steps leads to the gi'and baronial haU, in which are four ^\-iudows, 
 containing a genealogical history of the fannly from the Conquest. They 
 were pamted by Mr. Hades, aud do him infinite credit. The great stau'case 
 is of carved old Irish oak, and adorned by elaborate pamted glass by the same 
 artist, containing for its principal subject the Conqueror's landing at Hast- 
 ings, accompanied by his standard-bearer, Jacques de Brabazon. The prin- 
 cipal apartments, which extend round the south and east fi'onts, are enriched 
 with paintings and statuary. Amongst the former are two family portraits 
 by Lely, two by KncUer, and two very fine modern full-lengths of the 
 present Earl and Countess, with two cluldi'eu, bj- Capalti. But the gems 
 are a portrait by Rembrandt of his wife, and one of Cardinal de Ketz by 
 Franzoni. Both were in the gallery at Rome of the grand-uncle of the 
 present Emperor of the French, CarcUnal Fesch. Amongst numerous statues,, 
 the most worthy are an '* Eve," by Rinaldi ; " Ganymede and Eagle," by 
 Thorwalsden ; " Cyparissus and "Womided Deer," by Pozzi ; and " Cupid 
 conceaUn? his Arrows in a Bunch of Roses," by the same artist. A well- 
 engineered di-ive is carried through the grounds and over the Sugar-loaf, 
 whose sides are covered with luxuriant gorse aud heath, which, when in 
 blossom, present the most beautifully enamelled picture of yellow and pm'ple 
 that can well be imagined. Intermixed -with patches of richest greensward, 
 in grand contrast with this soft scene, stand out at mtervals bold projecting 
 crags, from whose smnmits a rich champaign stretches to the horizon. On 
 the left, embosomed in a wooded vale, appears the town- of Bray, bounded on 
 the south by the precipitous rocks of Bray Head ; whilst northward, as if 
 overlapping each other, are the picturesque forms of KUliney Hill, termi- 
 nating with the rocks of Dalkcy, the more bluff point of Howth, with its 
 lighthouse ; and, still more deeply embosomed in the sea, the distant blue 
 and delicate forms of Lambay. To the right a continuous outUne of hiUs 
 runs down to Wicklow Head. The intennediate valley, studded with 
 country scats, develops varieties of cultivation and wood, aud altogether 
 forms a picture of infinite beauty. This drive is contuaued over the hanging 
 cliff of Bray Head, seven hundi-ed feet above the sea, and affords almost 
 every combination of scenery imaginable. A wdd precipitous foreground 
 of rock and heather, washed at its base by the never-ccasmg, cver-varj-ing 
 ocean wave — a vast sea-plain bounded by the sky — a Une of coast diversified 
 by every variety of jutting headland and receding bay — whilst inland the 
 beauteous Wicklow Hills, with all that rich admixture of form and colour 
 for which they have so long been famed, grandly rear then- heads;— such 
 is a most imperfect recapitiilation of the coiep d'oeil that presents itself at 
 eveiy turn of this enchanting diive. One thing for Avliich this place was 
 famous fiir and near for many a long year was the KUruddery Hunt, the 
 subject of a renowned sporting ditty, descriptive of the veneatorial exploits
 
 ;iii||l;|i,i'ii!v
 
 26 DUBLIN TO AVICKLOW. 
 
 of the Adairs and their companions in tlie chase, among whom the Brabazon 
 or Mcath family were conspicuous. The song is" a sort of versified topo- 
 graphical sketch of the whole neighbom-hood, and a very excellent one too ; 
 for, in following the hounds, the poet conducts us to most of the lions of the 
 vicinage. On one cf the spots, Malpas Summit, the hill next to KiEincy, 
 an obelisk was erected by Colonel Malpas, in 1741, for the pui-pose of 
 employing the poor, and in imitation of Su* Pigot Piers, who had a pillar 
 consti'ucted -svith the same object, as mentioned elsewhere. On the KiHiney 
 range, and in the very track of the hounds, as described in the song, tlie 
 yoang Duke of Dorset was killed in 181<5, by a fall fi'om his horse, while 
 hunting -vvith Lord Powerscomt's pack ; and a small pyi-amid now mai'ks 
 the spot. 
 
 Glex of the Dowxs. — Continuing along the high road through a 
 richly-wooded country, which becomes more romantic as we proceed, we 
 enter tliis celebrated Glen, named from the Down Mountain, 1.232 feet 
 above the sea, and presenting a graceful outline from the road. The Glen, 
 about 14- miles in length, and 160 feet average breadth, is wild and majestic. 
 At its bottom, almost hidden in its depths, a gusliing rivulet ^vinds de^"iously 
 amidst rock and shmb. Above, the wood-clothed preciijices rear their leafy 
 walls 500 to 600 feet. From an opening in the road, winding thi'ough the 
 Glen, we come full in view of the Great Sugar-loaf. On tm-ning round to 
 enjoy this favourite ^iew, we see that toweling peak, shutting in. as with a 
 vast barrier, this secluded raATae — seeming to be the fitting abode for the 
 genii of banditti and brigands, such as the pen of a E^dcliS'e or the pencil of 
 a Salvator might depict. 
 
 Bellevue, the seat of P. La Touche, Esq., includes one side of the Gleu 
 of the Downs, the other side being part of Powerscoui't. The mansion stands 
 on the eastern slope of the ridge separating the Glen from the sea. The 
 maiine prospect embraces the Carnarvon moimtains, and the coast of Wick- 
 low, including Bray and the other headlands. Within all is elegance, refine- 
 ment, and unaffected simpUcity : and ^vithout the house everything is in 
 keeping with the magnificent scenery which we have famtly endeavom-ed to 
 describe. It is well observed by Mr. Monck ^lason, that these beautiful 
 quartz mountains, " whose conical-shaped summits furnish %vith pictm-esque 
 apices the mountain scenery of Wicklow, were by the native Irish called by a 
 name which signifies ' the gilt sj^eai's,' derived fi-om then* retaining the Ught 
 of the sun after the rest of the suiTomiding landscape was involved in dark- 
 ness. This name, than which no other could be imagined more pictm-esque 
 or significant, was altered for the vulgar- appellation of ' Sugar-ioaves.' " 
 The demesne of BeUe\-ue, distinguished for its romantic and pictm-esque 
 lovehness amidst scenes where all is beauty, is situated on the southern 
 exti-emity of the range of lulls connected with the Lesser Sugar-loaf, foi-ming 
 the boundaries between the tract h"ing along the coast and the glens and 
 valleys thi-ough which we have just travelled. From its elevation, southern 
 aspect and sea-view, it is one of the most cheerful seats in Wicklow. The 
 piincipal entrance to the demesne is from the low road i-uuning from the 
 Glen of the Downs to 
 
 Delgany, — a pretty Irish hamlet close to Belle\iie, and to the Windgate 
 road by Bray, and within a mile and a half of the sea, contammg a nimiber 
 of respectably-inhabited cottages, its situation, schools, dispensary, and 
 church, forcibly reminding one of the most favoui-ed EngUsh localities. 
 Here was once a cell, belonging to St. Mogoroc, brother of St. Canoe, "wlio
 
 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 27 
 
 flourished about 492. Its situation was unknown until the identity of 
 Dergne or Delgne with Delgany was pointed out by the learned Dr. 
 Lanig-an. The next point of attraction is — 
 
 The Devil's Glen, more extensive than the Dargle, but partaking of tho 
 same character as to scenery. Its sides are precipitous, and clothed to the 
 summit with masses of trees and underwood. Whilst less beautiful in 
 general details than the Dargle, it is still more decidedly characterised by a 
 wild and savage aspect ; in short, a most fitting retreat for the once mystic 
 and mischievous personage who appears to enjoy (at least in name) a vested 
 right in its di-eary sohtudes, and to whom a terrible holocaust was offered at 
 the close of the last century, when part of the wood was destroyed shortly 
 after the rcbeUion of 1798. Several of the defeated msm-gents havmg taken 
 shelter withui its fastnesses, &e was applied in various places, driving the 
 unfortunate fugitives from their covert, only to fall on the bayonets or be 
 shot down by musketry. The Vartry flows m pictm-esque meanderuigs 
 through the glen, whose sides become less precipitous, till at length it 
 emerges on a wide barren tract, beneath which is the beautiful waterfall, 
 seen to most advantage when the stream is swollen after rains. NotMng, 
 perhaps, in Wicklow pleases or astonishes more than this glen. Its roaring 
 torrent, cliff's, and windhig paths, that present at every tm-n some new 
 beauty ; its waterfall, the magnificent forest trees which overshadow one of 
 its sides, the huge naked rocks wliich impend over the other, " tottcruig to 
 their fall," all exhibit a scene grand and beautiful. Passing the demesne of 
 Ballycurry, and leaving behuid the hamlet and ruined chm-ch of Killeskey, 
 we soon reach the narrow road leading to the 
 
 Glen of Dunran, stretching along the base of Carrig-na-muck. Lofty 
 granite rocks, assuming most fantastic forms from diffeient pomts, project 
 or tower on every side ; between the Clio's, trees interspersing with the 
 masses of granite, produce a stiikuig effect. From the middle of the glen a 
 path winds tlu'ough the trees to the View Rock, where there is a magnificent 
 prospect, stretching away towards Wicklow. The wood of Carrig-na-muck 
 is here seen to great advantage, its beautiful sheet of green beuig sombred 
 by the dark foliage of some fuie old pme trees. A rock which seems, as it 
 were, to "sentmel the glen " —one of the few m Wicklow destitute of water — 
 at its eastern boundary, is clothed m the same dark livery. Here, in 1798, 
 many of the rebels were put to the sword. From the junction of the 
 KiUeskey and mail-coach roads to Ne wrath Bridge, is fouj- and a half mdcs. 
 The country is interestuig from the ricluiess and beauty of its surface, and 
 the occasional views obtained of sea on the one hand, and the momitains on 
 the other. 
 
 At Neweath Bridge we find good post-horses and carriages, at Hunter's 
 excellent hotel, its proprietor boastmg, and justly so, of the entire approba- 
 tion bestowed upon his admu'ably-managed estabhshment by patrons of the 
 highest rank. It is most pleasantly situated on the left bank of the charming 
 and trout-stored Vartry, on the sea-side road leading from Bray to Wicklow, 
 and witMn a mile of Ashford ; where is also a very good comitry mn, afford- 
 ing every accommodation. Newrath Bridge and Ashford are nearly in the 
 centre of that mteresting district termed the Garden of Wicklow, bomided, 
 north by the hill of Dmiran. east by the sea, south and west by contuiuation 
 of the secondary range of hills rminmg from Dunran to the Avonmore, neai' 
 Rathdrum. And now we approach the J/ee^m^ o/ <Ae Waters! 
 
 Avondale is the next attraction, formerly the residence of Colonel Hayes,
 
 
 ,r:v. > 
 
 
 |r o
 
 30 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 
 
 the well-known authior of a Treatise on Planting ; and, in accordance with 
 his judgment, every natural advantage has been made subser^-ient to genei-al 
 t'ffect. The demesne is magnificently wooded, and broken into gorgeous 
 groupings of hill and dale, stream and precipice ; the spacious and handsome 
 mansion overhanging the river. The consununate taste with which these 
 grounds have been laid out has rendered Avondale one of the most interesting 
 seats in the kingdom. Following the Avonmore, the road winds through a 
 succession of pleasing scenes, until the toiu'ist approaches the entrance of a 
 vaUey Avhose contemplation is certainly calculated to evoke and to justify the 
 most aspiring guide-book hvperbole, in humble imitation of which we may 
 say that, if the spii'it of peace and happiness were to assume a corporeal 
 form, and descend to abide on earth, its fitting retreat would be found here. 
 Standing, as it were, at the gorge of the glen leading fi'om the comparatively 
 wild tract he has left miles behind him, the em-aptured spectator obtains his 
 first glimpse of 
 
 That vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet ! 
 
 and a tkricc hhtss and trebly used-up stoic, indeed, must he be, if he do not 
 involuntarily echo the sentiment which the muse of ]Moore has familiarised to 
 every tongue that has Hspcd the accents of ci^•ilisation — 
 
 There is not in this wide world a valley so sweet ! 
 
 Yet, alack for romance ! there are such Coldstreams in the world ; and doubly 
 alack, that our duty, as faitliful and unimpassioned guides in the utilitarian 
 purpose of giving a Tourist ticket-holder honest measure for his money, 
 should coriipel us to cite one of these phlegmatic, mii-age-dispersing indi- 
 ^-iduals, to whom " a primrose by the river's bank a yellow piimrose is to 
 him, and nothing more." Mr. Barrow, who visited the place when its 
 beauties were enhanced by the fineness of the day, and the autumnal tint of 
 the foliage had ah'eady advanced into the sear and yellow leaf, says : — " As 
 for the ' meetinfi of the waters,' as the Irish are pleased to caU the confluence 
 of two little streams, pompously or poetically as you may please to decide, I 
 think more has been made of it than either the waters or their meeting 
 deserve. There ai'e, in fact, two places in the valley where two streams 
 meet : one towards the lower end, where the scenery Ls rich and beautiful — 
 the other, which I was assured to be the ' rit/lar' meeting, was higher up the 
 vale ; and, I confess, on aniving at it I was disappointed, and could not 
 hesitate in gi^'ing the preference to the place of confluence of the t wo streams 
 we had passed lower down. The two streams forming this '■riglar' meeting 
 are named the Avonmore and Avonbcg — the gi'eat and little Avon. Hence 
 the road leads direct to Rathdiiim ; hence I set out on a four hours' walk, on 
 a -sdsit to Castle Howard, the handsome residence of !Mrs. (widow of Colonel) 
 Howard. At the entrance-lodge is a cottage, where parties take then- repast, 
 and a book kept for insertion of the names. I next proceeded a second time 
 towards the '■ riglar meeting of the waters:' but before I got so far, in walk- 
 ing through the woods quite alone, 1 came to the meeting of two paths, and 
 was considerably perplexed in choosing the right one. The chances were 
 equal : so I jogged on, and luckily got into the proper road." This is 
 undoubtedly flat blasphemy against the manes of the " poet of every cii'cle 
 and the idol of his own," and dcser^-cs to be resented accordingly. Never- 
 theless, it is our duty to put it on record ; and we now pass to
 
 DUBLIN TO "VVICKLOW. 31 
 
 Castle Howard, seat of Sir Ralph Howard, Bart.,* approached by a 
 quaint bridge across the Avoiimore, connecting the road at the other side 
 Avith the approach to the gateway, and called the Lion Bridge, from the 
 figure of a leonine animal in stone (the crest of the Howards) surmounting 
 the gateway at the end of the bridge. This gate is a handsome castellated 
 cai'ved stone structure, with Gothic arches. The avenize winds up a richly- 
 wooded slope, through shrubberies of great beauty, to the castle, wluch has 
 a tinily feudalesque air, two hundred feet above the river. At divers points 
 of the approach, and from the csjilanade in front of the castle, gorgeous 
 views arc obtained of the Vale of Avoca. The liills above and around the 
 mansion are extensively planted, the effect of which is becoming every year 
 more beaiitiful. 
 
 Our tourist here, in carrying out his intention of seeing as much as possible 
 of \Yicklow witliin a brief period, will act judiciously in takmg up his 
 quarters at that most recherche of rural hostelries, the 
 
 Wooden-bridge Inn, the best-appointed, and consequently most generally 
 patronised rendezvous for tourists and travellers in these parts, occujiying 
 a delightful position in the valley where the Auglii-in river joins the stream 
 of the Avoca, forming the Second Meeting of the Waters. Here not alone is 
 the Meeting of the Waters, but, what is perhaps still more beautiful, the 
 meeting of the several glens which clehonche at this spot into the plain from 
 all points of the compass — those ravines with their masses of rich foliage, 
 expanding towards the open valley, as rivers from various parts flow into 
 one estuary. The interest attached to the " Meeting of the Waters," and 
 which will endure as long as the language it has been sung in, gave rise to 
 a controversy respecting the identity of the locality where the poet composed 
 his melody. There being two " Meetings," a question arose as to wliich was 
 entitled to the honour — a difficulty which Moore was generally imderstood 
 to have settled by pronouncing in favour of that at Castle Howard, and 
 against the Wooden Bridge. Lord John Russell, however, has determined 
 tliis controversy, though something after the manner of the disputation in 
 the fable about the colour of the chameleon ; for in the " Memoirs and 
 Journals of Moore," edited by his lordship, and issued the winter before last 
 (1852), the poet, wi'iting to a friend who had jn-opounded the point, says: 
 " The fact is, I wrote the song at neither place, though I beheve the scene 
 under Castle Howard was the one that suggested it to me. But all this 
 interest shows how wise Scott was in connecting his poetry with beautiful 
 scenery : — as long as the latter blooms so will the former." 
 
 The Vale is about 8 miles in length, and about half a mile in breadth, save 
 at the confluence of the sti'cams, where it is much wider. The lateral 
 boundaries consist of wooded heights, crowned with forest trees and orna- 
 mental shnibs, rising in some places 500 feet above the plain. It is indeed 
 a scene of exceeding loveliness. A pictiu'esque Iwidgc spans the blended 
 waters of the Avonmore and Avonbeg, that form below it a placid lake, in 
 whose centre a small green island rears its verdant slope, crowned with 
 
 * The reference in the extract from Mr. Barrow may render it necessary to say, 
 that the present owner of Castle Howard, Sir Ralph, is son of the Hon. Hugh 
 Howard (fourth son of the first Earl of Wicklow), by the second daiighter of Dean 
 (Bligh) of Elphin, niece of the first Earl of Darnley. He married, 1837, Lady 
 Frazcr ; is a deputy-lieutenant of Wicklow : colonel of the Wicklow militia ; repre- 
 sented that county in Parliament from 1829 to 1852, and was created a baronet 
 in 1838.
 
 32 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 
 
 arbutus, holly, and wliitctliorn. Hence the united stream takes the name of 
 the Avoca, and rolls onward towards the sea. High mountains look down 
 on this enchanting panorama — the grim ramparts of a Hajjpy Valley, which 
 Kasselas might euyy. The road leads along the west bank of the Ayoca ; 
 on both sides the hill-steeps are clad with forest trees, the eastern bemg 
 extremely rich. From above tlieu' thick foliage peep occasionally the tui'rets 
 of some stately mansion, beneath which the eye detects elcarmgs skilfully 
 fonned, so that the best points of yiew may be obtained ; and, as the livci' 
 takes a "wuiding course, the means of amply examuihig the grace and 
 splendom- of the scenery are very fi'cqucnt. The prettil} -situated Avoca 
 Hotel, which figures in a thousand engravii;gs, is upon its margin. Scenery 
 similar in chai'acter, yet perpetually varied as new breaks present themselves, 
 continues till the Second Meeting is reached ; where the river is crossed by 
 a handsome stone bridge, although the locality is still recognised by its 
 ancient cognomen, the ^^'ooden Bridge, where the excellent inn, of Avhich 
 we have spoken, myites the weary yet delighted tourist to rest and refi'csli- 
 ment, of which he will hardly partake mthout re-cchomg the sentiment of 
 the genius loci : — 
 
 Sweet Vale of Avoca ! how calm could I rest, 
 
 In thy bosom of shade, with the friends I love best, 
 
 Where the storms that we feel in this cold world should cease, 
 
 And our hearts, like the waters, be mingled in peace ! 
 
 Shelton. — Towards Arklow the river narrows, and the trees being 
 du'ectly over it, cast a darker shadow on its waters. As we apjjroach the 
 sea, the scenery assumes a more subdued character, the valley expands, and 
 the mountains subside into slopuig hills. At the foot of one of these stands 
 perhaps the most famous of the many show places m the county, a Gothic 
 structure in the pomted style, encompassed with a noble demesne, ■v'iz., 
 Shelton Abbey, seat of the Earl of AA'icklow. The pubUc entrance to the 
 grounds is about a mile and a half fiora Arklow, and admission is freely 
 granted to strangers. The interior decorations correspond with its external 
 character, and both are deseiyedly much admhed. The Ubrary contams 
 some valuable books, once the property of Lord Chancellor ^^^est ; and the 
 contents of the edifice are in every respect worthy of such a structm'e and of 
 the exalted luieage of its noble owner, who spares no pams to gratifv the 
 toiu'ist public. Tliis ancient family (closely connected with the Castle 
 Howard branch) have been many years resident at Shelton, but are originally 
 of English extraction. In 1667, Ralph Howard, Esq., ha'ving, upon the 
 breaking out of the war, withdi'aAvn to England, m as attamted by James the 
 Second's parliament : his estates, consisting of 4,000 acres, held by a lease 
 from the Duke and ]Juchcss of Ormond, together with 600 acres in Bargy, 
 Wexford, were sequestered, and put uito the possession of a Mr. Hackct, 
 who received the rents until the defeat at the Bovne. Upon the imhappy 
 monarch's flight towards V\'atcrford, he rested m the house of Shelton, and 
 was entertained by Mr. Hackct, who then had possession. 
 
 Arklow. — 'I'his, the next town we approach, is the most populous in the 
 county, of considerable antiquity, situated at its south-west extremity, on a 
 narrow mlet which rmis in fi om the bay to receive the waters of the Avoca . 
 A monastery was founded, m the reign of John, by '1 heobald Fitz-AA'alter, 
 hereditary Lord Butler of Ireland, "for the love of God and the Blessed 
 Vu'gm, and for the health of the souls of Henry II., King of England. Kmg 
 Richard, Kmg John, and other persons." The castle was erected by the
 
 ;jt DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 
 
 founder of the Abbey. Cromwell took Arklow in 1649, and dismantled 
 the castle, and the ruins may still be seen. In 1798, at this place, the 
 royalist troops and yeomamy defeated the insuigent army after a desperate 
 resistance. 
 
 To the west, at the foot of Croghan-Kinsella mountain, are the Wicklow 
 Gold Mmes, no longer worked ; but modern experiences testify, that where 
 " sparkles of golden splendoiu- all over the siuface shine," there may be 
 richer " diggings " than any which erst rewarded the explorers of " our 
 Langenian mine." They form the subject of a farce of O'Kecfe's, and fiu'nished 
 Moore with one of his happiest metaphors ; but their fame is now altogether 
 eclipsed b^- the "NYicklow Copper Mines, which are fomid to be veiy valuable, 
 as, indeed, may be said of the lead and other mines in this comitry; and, 
 generally speaking, of all mming property in Ireland, though especially 
 copper mines. Further to the west, is the small town of Tinehely, destroyed 
 dvu'ing '98, but shortly afterwards rebuilt, and near it stood the rains of 
 Coolrass, the Cosha, it is believed, of the Castle of the unfortunate Thomas 
 "Went worth, Earl of Strafford, so often noticed by him in his letters. Among 
 the peasants the place is called Black Tom's Buildings; from these rains 
 Tinehely was in part rebuilt. 
 
 Four miles from Tinehely is Coolatin Park, the residence of the estimable 
 and deservedly-respected Earl Fitzwilliam, well-cultivated fields and com- 
 fortable homesteads abounding around the mansion. On this estate is the 
 fur-famed wood, or rather what remains of it, of Shillelah, wliich gives its 
 name to the solid oak sapling so famed in Milesian song and stoiy. This 
 wood, which covered the southern jjortion of the county, was cut down in 
 1634 by Lord-Lieutenant Strafford, who wrested it from the original pro- 
 prietors, the O'Byrnes, "because they were unable to prodvice any wi'itten 
 titles to their lands." Some of the oak was used to roof St. Patrick's 
 Cathedral ; and Westminster Hall, it is supposed, was roofed fi'om the same 
 source. 
 
 Wicklow Town is reputed to be the poorest of all the Irish assize towns. 
 This will probably deter the most adventui'ous holiday excursionist visiting- 
 it, though undoubtedly the view from the noble promontory of Wicklow- 
 hcad, a famous landmark for sailors, with its light-house, would repay a 
 trip : and the place is moreover extremely rich in remains of Danish and 
 Ant;lo-Irish interest, as any gazetteer "will acquaint the reader. On a rock 
 overhanging the sea are the rains of Black Castle, built by William Fitz- 
 gerald, in 1373 : thci'e are also to be seen the ruins of a Franciscan abbey, 
 founded, according to Ware, in the reign of Henry III., with many other 
 objects of archceological attractiveness, but, as we said before, not of a kind 
 to draw tourist ticket-holders beyond the routine limits ah-eady assigned. 
 Should the rambler, however, proceed to the town of Wicklow, it will afford 
 him an opportunity of visiting a spot to which we should perhaps have invited 
 him when he was equally close to it, either at Ashford Bridge or Newrath 
 Bridge, viz., in the immediate neighboui'hood of Rathnew, a little north of 
 the assize town, where is 
 
 RosANNA, a beautifiil demesne, shaded by fine timber, including some 
 magnificent chesnuts. It belongs to the nephew of the person from whom 
 the place derives its cliief interest, Mrs. Tighe, authoress of the well-known 
 poem of " Psyche," to whose beauty ^loore has testified in one of his earliest 
 lyrics, commencing " Tell me the witching strain again." " Psyche " was 
 printed here for private circulation. It was published after her death, and
 
 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 3.3 
 
 liocame exceedingly popular, and is founded on the allegory of Love and the 
 Soul ; written in the Spenserian stanza ; and with hut a very remote idea of 
 finding fame beyond her own hmited circle. 
 
 Laragii. — Apologising for this digression, \\c resume from the town of 
 Wicklow, by saying that the leading attraction for the tourist in this direc- 
 tion now will be Mr. Bayley's demesne of Ballyarthm-, the best approach 
 being by the lower Newbridge-road. However viewed, the grounds rank 
 amongst the finest in the coimty. At the point considered most favour- 
 able is constructed a rustic octangular building, from which natm-e stands 
 displayed in a degree of beauty almost unparagoned, at least in British 
 landscape. 
 
 Having enjoyed the witcliing scenery in this direction, the tourist returns 
 for the night to his snug temporary quarters at the W^ooden-B ridge Hotel. 
 Refreshed with well-earned sleep — between sheets redolent of the clover on 
 which they arc bleached — he proceeds on his return torn-. However " oft ho 
 takes leave, he still loathes to depart " from amidst the ever-lo^-ely scenes of 
 Avoca Vale, where he recognises a thousand new beauties at every point, lit 
 up by the beams of the morning sun. Mayhap, he visits the once thi'i'v'ing 
 little town of Rathdi'um, which mainly depended on a woollen manufacture, 
 now wholly fallen away ; and taldng his path through the verdant demesne 
 of Avondale, ai)proaches the small hamlet of Clara, romantically situated in 
 the bottom of a vale. The hamlet occupies nearly the centre of the vale 
 which runs from Rathdi'um to Laragh, six miles, and though presenting 
 no2ie of the more impressive features of Glenmalur, miites sylvan richness 
 with a diversity of natural objects ; while fi^om several parts of the road, the 
 views of the Avonmore awaken the softest and sustain the most delightful 
 sensations, till he reaches Derrybawn, through whose wooded mazes he 
 proceeds to Laragh, near which village the five glens debouch e into a circum- 
 scribed and well-timbered plain, namely, Glendalough, Glendasson, Glen- 
 macnass, Glenavon, and the glen of the Vale of Clara. Laragh is situated in 
 the centre of the space where the glens, with their rivers and roads, unite ; 
 the cluu-ch, schools, and other buildings lately erected by Mr. Barton 
 being conspicuous. 
 
 Glendalough. — A mile and a half fi-om Laragh are the ruins of Glenda- 
 lough, the most popular of all the antiquities in this county. A lengthened 
 description will of course be expected, but we shall not attempt it, at least in 
 oui' own words, for it has been "done" by thousands; and it is hardly 
 possible to say more than that, in pictiu'esque grandeur and legendary interest, 
 no scene in Wicklow can be put in competition Avith it. A recent writer says : 
 " A noble monastic establishment, round which a city subsequently rose, 
 flourished, and decayed, was founded here in the early part of the sixth 
 centm-y, by St. Kevin." The ruins of many ecclesiastical stnictm'es yet 
 remain, and " the long, continuous shadow of the lofty and slender Round 
 Tower moves slowly, from morn till eve, over wasted chiu'ches, crumbling 
 oratories, shattered crosses, scathed yew trees, and tombs (now undistinguisli- 
 ablc) of bishops, abbots, and anchorites." How few of the gay tomists by 
 whom the glen is yearly visited view these ruins with any other feeling than 
 that of idle and ignorant curiosity ! says Mr. Wakeman, quoting the Rev. 
 C. Otway, than whom there never was a more vivid or more truthful word- 
 painter of Irish scenery or character, history or manners. " Their ears have 
 been poisoned with the burlesque and lymg tales (inventions of the last half 
 century) which the wretched men and women, miscalled guides of the place, 
 
 D 2
 
 V^^e 
 
 filliii;! 
 
 ^^'m 
 
 m 
 
 mm 
 
 \Mmmmim 
 
 I 
 
 hliWtailHi'i 
 
 [l\ 
 
 rnhm^nrm 
 
 'ill If! 
 
 V.V'i,' '
 
 38 DUBLIN TO AVICKLOW. 
 
 have composed for the entertainment of the thoughtless. They wander 
 unmoved among shrines which, nearly thii'teen centuries ago, were raised in 
 honour of their God by men joyous and thankful in the feeling of certain 
 imniortaUty, — men whose fathers in theii- youth had reverenced the Druid as 
 a more than human comisellor." 
 
 The Seven Chukches. — It would be difficult to conceive anytliing more 
 solemnly impressive than the approach to the lake, famous for its legends, 
 and infinitely more so for the lyric that has wedded one of them to im- 
 mortal verse. So wonderful and remarkable a scene has rarely been before 
 witnessed. Wild, bare, rocky, and dark-coloured mountains lun out into a 
 sharj) promontory ; to the right the ground descends into the valley of Glen- 
 dasson, and to the left uito that of Glendalough. One can see into both these 
 valleys at the same time, tlii'ough broad, wide rock-doors. In the foreground, 
 in the midst of the basm formed by the meeting of the two valleys, He the 
 low ruins of the Seven Churches ; and right in the centre, forming the middle 
 point of the landscape, rises the lofty, slender, pillar-temple, that stands, in 
 good preservation, exactly in the middle of this pictm-esque wilderness, like 
 Pompey's Pillar in the midst of the wastes of Alexandi'ia. Beliind tliis 
 temple ap^^ear the water-mirrors of the two famous lakes ; fu'st, the smaller, 
 and beliind it the larger. The entii'e prospect is ruin — ruins of natiu-e and of 
 art. It is, mdeed, a wild and touching scene of desolation — the Baalbec of 
 early Christianity iii Ireland. No tillage, no industry, no e^ideuces of social 
 co-operation— all is flat, dreaiy, and barren. Such is the scene which in 
 .'^•loomy solitude shrouds tliis city of the dead, celebrated m the earliest ages 
 of Christianity — wliile Britaui was still sunk in barbarism — for the splendour 
 (;f its altars, and for the Icarnuig of its monastic community ! The name. 
 Glendalough, like other early denominations of places derived fi-om some 
 ob^dous natural featm'cs, implies " the valley, or glen, of the two lakes." 
 The lower is small, and is filled only dming winter ; the upper is a mile in 
 length, by about a quarter broad. St. Kevin founded the Abbey of Glenda- 
 lough, and presided there as abbot and bishop for many years, dpng iii 618, 
 being nearly 120 years old. The Seven Chru-ches, properly so caUed, arc 
 Trmity Chm-ch, the Cathedi-al, the Abbey, St. Kevin's Chm-ch, Our Lady's 
 Church, the Rhefcart Church, and Teampull-na-SkelHg. As we approach 
 the valley from Laragh, the first object of interest is the ruined chm'ch of 
 St. Saviour, so denominated in the Ordnance Survey ; for \^'e refer to details 
 by Dr. Petrie, the great authority on all such subjects. He describes the 
 Round Tower as one of the loftiest and most perfect in Ireland, being 110 
 feet high and 5 1 feet in cu'cumference ; and precisely as it stood at the 
 beginning of the spring of 1853, it is given, with all its immediate archaeolo- 
 gical accessories, by the truthful pencil of Mr. Jones, in om' engraving. ^ 
 Besides its little doorway, the tower has two little windows in the shaft, and" 
 four small apertures near the top ; it is built of granite, and of a hard kind of 
 .'late wedged in between the granite blocks. The cap fell to the ground in 
 i 804. St. Kevin's Bed * is south of the upper lake, and is a caAity in the 
 
 * The " Bed" consists of a hole in the face of the rock, capable of containing three 
 or four persons. It is generally made a point of honour with the visitor to enter thi> 
 cave - the access to which is attended with some peril. Ladies innumerable, unde- 
 terred by the fate of the fair and too fond " Kathleen" (now often personated by 
 personages the very reverse of spiritual), insist on penetrating to the recess of this 
 lonely Patmos of the woman-hating saint — not with the same repulsive results, 
 however ; for if report speaks true, many happy marriu;^cs amongst the families of
 
 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 39 
 
 face of the nearly perpendicular rock, at a fearful elevation above the dark 
 waters ; whether excavated by art, or originally a natui-al recess, it is impos- 
 sible to determine. As it is most easy of access from the water, a boat is 
 always at hand to convey the curious to it ; and many are the tales of adven- 
 tm-e of some of the most celebrated personages of the present century, of 
 either sex, in reaching it. We shall not encumber om- pages with prohtlcss 
 pai-ticulars of theii- sayings and doings ; but it would be unpardonable to 
 omit Thackeray's dcsciiption, done in the happiest style of ^Ir. r^Iichaei 
 Angelo Titmarsh, ere the author of the " Irish Sketch Book " had begun to 
 paint in the encaustic of " Vault j' Fair." After some I'emarks apropos of 
 music in general, and the Irish ?*Ielodics in particular, he proceeds thus : — 
 
 " I don't know if there is any tunc about Glcndalough ; but if there be, it 
 must be the most delicate, fantastic, fiiry melody that ever \^as played. 
 Only fi.incy can describe the charms of that deUghtfid place. Dii'cctly you 
 see it, it smiles at you as umocent and friendly as a little child ; and once 
 seen, it becomes your friend for ever, and you are always happy when yon 
 think of it. Here is a little lake and little fords across it, sm-romided by 
 little mountains, and which lead you now to little islands where there are all 
 sorts of fantastic little old chapels and gra^■eyards ; or again into little brakes 
 and shrubberies where small livers are crossing over little rocks, plasMng 
 and jumping, and singing as loud as ever they can. Thomas ^loore has 
 written rather an awful deserij^tion of it ; and it may indeed appear big to 
 lum, and to the fairies who must have inhabited the place in old days — that's 
 clear. For who could be recommended in it except the little people ? There 
 are Seven Churches, whereof the clergy must have been the smallest pei-son^, 
 and have had the smallest benefices and the littlest congregations ever 
 known. As for the Cathedi'al, what a bishoplet it must have been tha 
 presided there! — the ])lace would hardly hold the Bishop of London or ]\Ir. 
 Sidney Smith — two full-sized clergymen of these days — who would be siu'e 
 to quaiTcl there for want of room, or for any other reason. There must have 
 been a dean no bigger than ^Ir. Moore before mentioned, and a chapter no 
 bigger than that chapter in Tristram Shandy which does not contain a single 
 word, and mere pop-guns of canons, and a beadle about as tall as Crofton 
 Crokcr, to whip the little boys who were playmg at taw (with peas) in the 
 yai'd. They say there was a university, too, in the place, with I don't know 
 how many thousand scholars ; but for accounts of this, there is an excellent 
 guide on the spot, who, for a shilling or two, will tell all he knows, and a 
 great deal more, too." 
 
 Speaking of Glendalough guides, by far the most famous of them all, 
 indeed of all the guides of Ireland, is the gentleman whose veritable effigies, 
 as taken in the spring of last year, 1853, by ISIr. Jones, we herewith offer 
 to the reader. George Winder has been the hero of all book-making tourists 
 of the last quarter of a centmy. As long ago as 1843, when Thackeiy 
 wrote, George was a veteran, as apj)ears from the Titmarshean introduc- 
 
 Dublin gentrj' and citizens have originated in a visit to the cave of St. Kevin. The 
 approach is by a narrow path, or rather ledge, scarped out of the face of the cliff, 
 beneath which frowns the " sullen water dark and deep," into whose depths a single 
 false step will assurcdlj^ plunge the incautious or nervous climber. Emboldened, 
 however, by the guide, and avoiding to look at the waters beneath, the feat is 
 generally accomplished in perfect safety, though occasionally with a dip into " the 
 fatal tidt " pour encoiiraf/er ks autres, as the gentleman said when he boiled his graud- 
 jaolher's head in a pipkiu.
 
 iSaWSi»B«liK^ 
 
 fi. i
 
 lli' 
 
 M 
 
 m 
 
 OS- (-4
 
 42 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 
 
 tiou, viz., " ' Look here! ' says the ragged-bearded genius of a guide, at the 
 Seven Churches, ' this is the spot which Mr. Henry Inglis particularly 
 admired, and said it was exactly like Norway. Many's the song I've heard 
 Mr. Sam Lover sing here — a pleasant gentleman entirely. Have you seen 
 my picture that's taken of in Mrs. Hall's book ? All the strangers know 
 me by it, though it makes me much cleverer than I am ! ' Similar tales has 
 he of Mr. Barrow, and the transatlantic Willis, and of Crofton Croker, who 
 has been everywhere." 
 
 George is much the same man still. " Age cannot wither him, nor custom 
 stale his infinite variety." Of the nature of the latter miscellaneous accom- 
 plishment we leave the truthful Barrow to speak, and can assure the readei' 
 that the verbal delineation is as graphic as our engraving, of whose fidelity 
 every tourist holding this page in his hand and confronting the original can 
 judge for himself. Mr. Barrow says : — 
 
 " At the point where the road turns off to these said churches, a guide, as 
 I supposed him, though somewhat with the air of a gentleman, but shabby 
 in his attire, came up to offer his services. From the moment he accosted to 
 the moment he left me his tongue never ceased, but Avcnt on at such a clat- 
 tering, tremendous rate, rattling out his words with a rapidity equalled only 
 by the curate of a parish church in London, Avhcn he publishes the banns of 
 marriage between John Hopldns and Susan Thomas, Joseph Jeidcius and 
 Sarah Higgins, Peter Pipkins and Eliza Popldnson —all of this parish. He 
 was, besides, a queer-looking person — the character not unlike that of a 
 Russian. He wore mustachios and a beard of a fine rich broA\'n colour, and his 
 personal appearance was altogether such as might give uneasiness to a man 
 of weak nerves ; indeed I afterwards heard, that ladies have sometimes been 
 afraid to trust themselves ■^^dth such a rough-looking, rattletrap fellow — but 
 my word for it, he is a good, honest, and agreeable chaperon, for all his looks. 
 His mode of expression was true Irish, and as singidar as himself. For 
 instance, I managed to edge one or two words in, and inquired if there had 
 been many visitors to these parts this year? ' A ^JO^^Je;y'(/i sight,' quoth he. 
 ' and an awful number more would come, if it wasn't for the terrihlc bad 
 things that are told of my countrymen just now, which makes you English- 
 men tliink they'll surely be murdered if they come over here.' AH this with 
 no small touch of the brogue, and as fast as he could gabble out the words. 
 He talked much of Tomnu/ Moore, and ' It was I,' said he, ' ^^ ho accompanied 
 Mr. Tommy ' (for so he invariably termed him) ' through all the scenes of 
 his poems ; it was I who told him all the various legends, and pomted out 
 the curiosities of the places.' Then he would rattle out ' By that lake,' and 
 repeat the whole poem from beginning to end, just as a school-boy repeats 
 his verses, never stopping till he reached, to my great satisfaction, the last 
 stanza, where ' Her ghost was seen to glide.' I never in the whole com'se 
 of my life met with a man ^vith such a ' gift of the gab,' and so retentive a 
 memory. His head seemed overflowuig with L'ish legends, and I am sure, 
 if any one would take the trouble to write down liis stories, they would 
 furnish materials for a second volume of Crofton Croker's ' Fau'y Tales.' He 
 never hesitated for a word, and altogether it had not been my fortune to 
 meet such a character in any part of the world. He calls himself ^^'inder, 
 and says that his ancestors came from Windermere, in Cumberland. Had I 
 observed to him that it was properly Wuiandcrmere, I dare say he would 
 have endca^•oured to persuade me that his family name suffered curtailment 
 along with that of the lake. Among the portentous events that mj- friend
 
 DUBLIN TO •WICKLOW, 43 
 
 Mr. Winder told me was tMs,— that for 1,300 years the skylark had never 
 been heard to ^Yarble over the lake, because St/lve^dn prayed that it might 
 never have the power to do so ; and the reason was, that the men who were 
 building the city where the Seven Chm-ches stand had made a vow to com- 
 mence then- work each day as soon as the lark rose, and not to leave off till 
 tlie sun had set. They kept then- vow, and were in consequence so worn out 
 with flitigue, that many of them died; when St. Kevin, out of compassion, 
 offered up his prayers that no lark should henceforth rise into the an-; — the 
 prayer was granted, and ' the plague was stayed.' All this is firmly believed. 
 Subsequent to this, a man, who was diiAing me in a jaunting-car, told me 
 that it was as true as we were sittmg in the car that the skylark was never 
 heard to warble over the lake for 1,300 years, though it was heard commonly 
 outside the Seven Chm-ches, at the distance of a few hunch-ed yards. I asked 
 him, if he did not tliink that skylarks preferred warbling over corn-ticlds 
 rather than over lakes?" Having inspected St. Kevin's Cell and the ancient 
 oratory, ridiculously named St. Kevin's Kitchen, having seen the Tower, and 
 in short visited all that is worth viewmg in this singularly interesting scene, 
 we retm-n to the village of Eoundwood, and thence by an easy and pictu- 
 resque road to the gate of the large and beautiful demesne of 
 
 LuGGALA, to which admission is most freely extended by the esteemed 
 proprietor, Mr. Latouche, whose lodge is justly regarded as one of the 
 sweetest smmner \illas m AYicklow. Of the charms of its \-icinity, the beau- 
 tiful lakes of Tay and Dan constitute no mean section ; situated at the upper 
 end of the glen— which winds fiom Luggala to Laragh, a distance of ten 
 miles — designated Gknavon. Lough Tay, 807 feet above the sea, occupies 
 a deep ciicular dell near the head of the glen. On the west of the Lough 
 the^ impending cliffs form part of the mountain lying between it and the 
 military road ; on the east the wooded and less* steep declivities extend 
 towards the base of Douce Movmtaui. Lough Tay is ciicular in outline, its 
 area about one hundred and twenty acres. To the beautiful old Irish aii-, 
 called " Luggala," w^ords have been adapted by jNIoore, commencing with 
 " No, not more welcome, the fauy numbers," etc. ; and, more recently, the 
 famous " Bells of Shandon," by the eccentric Father Prout, to which we refer 
 the reader in the Cork portion of the volume ; the Padre, however, telling 
 us, in his "Reliques" (vol. i. p. 2o4), that the "Bells" ring to the time of 
 " The Groves of Blarney," identical with the renowned " Last Rose of 
 Summer." East of the valley was formerlj' one of those di'uidical remains, 
 used by the artful arch-druid for oracular purposes, viz., a " rocking-stone," 
 so balanced that the smallest effort would shake it, and was supposed to be 
 self-moved in the presence of a guilty person. In some cases, as on the 
 Three Rock Mountain, Coimty Dublin, the culprit was placed under the 
 stone, which was made to vibrate over his head and threaten death at every 
 instant, until he made full confession. In 1800, a party of military, pass- 
 ing this moimtain, dislodged the stone from its pedestal, and consequently it 
 is now motionless. 
 
 Lough Dan, 685 feet above the sea, is about two miles below Tay, em- 
 bosomed by the mountains of Knocknacloghole, Scar, and Slieve-Buckh ; it 
 is wanting in much of that beauty which the jilantations connected with 
 Luggala Cottage impart to Tay, but possessing much interest, particularly 
 at the upper end, where it receives the infant waters of the Avonmore. 
 There the hmpid rivulet, having finished its course through the romantic 
 little glen separating the mountains of Scar and Knocknacloghole, mingles
 
 GKOROE WINDER, GLENDALOVGH GVIDE, COUNTT WICKI-OW. DRAWN BY JONES.
 
 ^ '" ' - 'Sfe^'^^'^^tji. 
 
 1,1'^
 
 46 DUBLIN TO WICKLOAV. 
 
 with the Annamoc. Here Sterne, -when a child, as he tells us himself, was 
 once swept through the mill-race, and escaped unscathed, to the unutterable 
 amazement of all the country round, who could hardly be persuaded that 
 there must not be a fatal termination to so Unsentimental a Journey.* 
 
 The village of Annamoe adjoins Glendalough Park : and the ruins of the 
 residence of the O'Toolcs, built about the lj:th ccntuiy, and Castle-Kevin 
 demesne, lie left of the village, close to the road to Rathdrum by INIoneystown 
 Hill. Of the castle, apparently a place of strength, few traces are now dis- 
 coverable. The number of minor beauties and interesting features, it will be 
 at the tourist's option to visit, as time or inclination sei"A'es. He may return 
 throu"-h Enniskerry, and thence through some delightful scenes, including 
 Old Connaught demesne, back to Bray. 
 
 That no feature of this lovely county should be unvisited, our programme 
 suggests a rich treat on the return to Dublin. 'I here is a section of AVicklow 
 comprising a series of scenes which (notwithstanding all already viewed) 
 will amply repay a slight detour from the usual route back to Dublin. The 
 first beauty on the Dublin side is 
 
 Thk Scalp — a deep defile, in the bosom of a granite rock. The sides are 
 acclivitous, but not altogether inaccessible, covered with prodigious disjointed 
 stones, shouldering each other in tumultuous confusion, threatening to over- 
 whelm the passenger at each adventurous footstep. When he looks back, 
 and views this tremendous cha^m in dreary perspective, he almost beUevcs 
 the base of the mountain has, at some remote period, given way, throughout 
 the extent of the ravine he has passed, and the incumbent mass fallen into 
 the hollow of the earth ; thus leaving a frightful chasm, not to be accounted 
 for on a consideration of the ordinary works of nature. Such a conjcctiu'e 
 is the offspring of fancy, created by unusual appearances ; but philosophy 
 offers no better explanation, and we quit the scene with surprise mixed with 
 awe. Formerly the road passed at the exact point in which the opposite 
 sides, if continued downward, might be supposed to meet, and so on either 
 hand rose those chaotic rocks, possessmg so slight a dependence upon each 
 other, that you fear their obruitive motion may commence again ; but the 
 short road made through part of the defile runs along the side of one of the 
 hills, amongst the rude masses themselves, so that the height of both sides 
 is apparently much diminished, when the pass opens and restores the traveller 
 to a view of the surroimding country. Fiom the Scalp the road gradually 
 descends into the romantic village of Emiiskcrry, seated on a gentle slope 
 verging towards the river Kerry. It lies within the ancient regal territory 
 of O'Toole, by a descendant of whom the \411age um was kept not many 
 years ago. The offspring of royalty, it is to be hoped, found consolation for 
 the degradation of his cmplo;^Tnent by a sense of the local fascination of the 
 spot wherein he exercised his functions. The pencil of Mr. Jones, on the 
 annexed page, would imply that majesty might muse upon the mischief of 
 the external world from out such a " loop-hole of retreat." 
 
 Lough Bray presents a most gloomy siu-face, caused pai-tly by the 
 shadows of the impending moimtains, but chiefly from the colour impaired 
 by the neighbouring peat moor thi'ough which its waters permeate. In the 
 
 * When little Laurence was in his eighth year, he fell under the water-wheel of a 
 mill while it was going, and was taken out unhurt. The event occurred at Wicklow. 
 and the country pnople flocked hy hundreds to look at him — a truly Irish act — as if 
 there could be anythinar to see in a child whose sole peculiarity was, to have had a 
 narrow escape. — Quarterly Review, April, 1854 ; article, Sterne Incdit ; Le Koran.
 
 DITP.I.IN TO WICKLOW. 47 
 
 niiclst of tliis wilderness Sii- Philip Crampton has created the oasis already ' 
 i-eferred to. The view fi'om the road is magnifiecnt, including the mountaiir« 
 of "War, Douce, and Kippure, Powcrscom-t demesne, and the valley of 
 Glencree, and ui the distance and endless succession of hill and dale, wood 
 and village. A mile south of Upper Lough Bray is the source of the Liffey. 
 Further west, but more accessible by the Dublin and Blessington road, is a 
 dreary sohtude, famous for the waterfall of Poulaphouca (the Puck's or 
 Devil's-hole), with its whirlpool of " depth interminable." Here the " Horse- 
 spii'it" is fabled to hold his nightly rout, l^^ring strangers into the vortex of 
 his cataract ! This waterfall, admitted to be peculiarly beautiful, cannot be 
 sneered at in the manner adopted occasionally tow ards its rival at Powers- 
 coru't. The Liifey, rushing thi'ough the Glen of Kippm-e, arrives at tliis 
 point, where the glen narrows and becomes precipitous. The waters glide in 
 glassy stillness to the verge of the fall, whence, by a series of cataracts, one 
 beneath the other, they are ejected till merged at a vast distance below. 
 The fathomless depth ascribed by the comitry people to this pool, and the 
 demon tradition connected with it, have perpetuated its name of " Poula- 
 phouca." A graceful bridge, of a single Gothic arch, with castellated and 
 embattled piers, crosses the chasm, sixty-five feet from rock to rock, whilst, 
 fai- below, the torrent is seen plunging, enveloped in clouds of mist ; and when 
 the river has been swollen by rains, the \'iew is little less than sublime. This 
 fine bit of river scenery forms pai't of Tulfarris demesne, whose pi'oprietor 
 (Mr. Hornidge), in the liberal spirit of his Wicklow neighbours, permits the 
 public fi-ee access. The bridge forms a viaduct, which is part of the coach- 
 road to Baltinglass — the ravine in the vicinity being planted with evergreens. 
 There is a pretty thatched-cottage inn for ^asitors, also a spacious ball-room — 
 ngremens that cause the vicinage to be crowded during summer with pic- 
 nic parties. Fom- miles on the Dublin side is Blessington, a in-etty little 
 town, smTounded by lordly demesnes, Tulfarris, WiU Momit, Humphiys- 
 ^ town, &c. Nearer the waterfall, on the other side, is Pussborough, the 
 admii'ed seat of the Earl of Milltown, whose second title is that of Viscount, 
 called fi-om this place. It may not be superfluous to guard the stranger from 
 confounding the Earl of Milltown with the Lord ]Milton, one of the repre- 
 sentatives of the coimty, and eldest son of a principal proprietor in it (as 
 akeady described), viz., Earl Fitzwilliam. Russborough House is a com- 
 manding structm-e, of Grecian design, containing many rare old pictui'es, 
 and is liberally opened to visitors. 
 
 Minor Wicklow Wanderings. — Having now achieved our cursory 
 inspection^ all we pretend to of the principal scenes in this county — we 
 subjoin, for those who have time, a few dii-ections for extending the tour 
 through less well-known, but scarcely less allui'ing parts, and supply a few 
 details of those lesser lioys. 
 
 From Bray through the Glen of the Downs, onward to Eathdrum, on the 
 mail-coach road, wood, mountain, glade, and hollow, in endless variety, 
 arrest the eye at every turn. Passing through the villages of Delgany, 
 Newto\^•n-Mount-Kennedy, the pretty hamlet of Ashford, and the demesnes 
 of Mount John (scat of Mr. Archer), and Kcltimon (seat of Mr. Leegrove), 
 we come to Eathdrum, where comfortable quarters may be secured at Mr. 
 Fogarty's Hotel. Advancing onward, an outside-car may be obtained, a 
 seat on the left-hand side of which we would recommend. Descending the 
 mountain road, scenes of semi-Alpine magnificence stretch out, bounded by 
 the giant Loughnaquilla, monarch of the Wicklow range. Left of the road
 
 DUBLIN TO ■W^CKLOW. 49 
 
 at foot of the hill, tranquilly reposes Ballinacur, Mr. T. Kemmis's romantic 
 residence, named from the mountain at whose base it nestles. On this road, 
 Mountbrown, Brown Hill (or Motley), Drumgough, Cloma, and Kellystown 
 mountains, rise before in ever-varying succession. These, from the Glen- 
 malui-e road, which the traveller is now passing, approximate almost to the 
 grand in naked desolation ; neither tree, shrub, nor plant occurs throughout 
 this long tract of mountain solitude, save where, in some sheltered nook, the 
 laurel or arbutus climbs, as if to remind the sojourner of the quiet beauty 
 left behind on entering the ravine. Descending from the sublime — not to 
 the ridiculous, but to the comfortable — Fogarty's Hotel stands in the shelter 
 of the towering hill skirting the road on the left, where Carrignewton, in 
 barren and grotesque confusion, presents a picture calculated to awaken 
 emotions of corresponding elevation. This witching region opens onward to 
 the lead mines La this remote district, leading towards the rugged Baravore. 
 The scientific tourist or traveller interested in the industrial prosperity of 
 the country, should visit the mines of Ballygoneen, opened in this neigh- 
 bourhood. They are most vigorously and profitably worked, under the 
 auspices of an entei-prising English company, and producing ores of rich 
 quality in considerable abundance. Indeed, the whole glen teems with 
 mineral wealth. Mr. Barker, No. 1, Eden-quay, Dublin, will furnish tickets 
 to \iew the mines, on application, and courteously afford every information. 
 Retracing our steps to Rathdi-um, there is much to gratify along the road, 
 by which the gentle Avonbeg flows in seeming stillness on its way. Of 
 this quarter an American remarked, " that it seemed to have been made on a 
 Saturday night, when all the rest of the world was finished," — an observa- 
 tion, by the way, repeated of many places all over the world, though pro- 
 bably of none with more complete applicability. 
 
 Newto^vn-Mount-Kennedt^ — suiTounded by beautiful country, on the 
 mail-coach road to Wexford— deserves notice. It is bounded north by the 
 Downs Mountain and Hill of Delgany ; east, sea ; south and west, the hills 
 running from the Downs Mountain to Dunran Glen. It is another central 
 position for exploring; and, as qualifying one for the \mdertaking, sub- 
 tantial cheer and comfortable quarters are to be had at Clement's Hotel, and 
 cars for the mansion and demesne of Mount Kennerly, purchased and much 
 improved by the late Lord Rossmore from Sir Robert Kennedy, descendant 
 of the alderman by whom the town w^as founded in the reign of Charles II. 
 At the time of pui-chase this whole tract, now adjoining and forming part of 
 the demesne, was barren waste. It is at present possessed by R. G. Cun- 
 ninghame, Esq., descendant of Lord Rossmore; worthily sustaining the 
 honoured heritage of his race as a thorough benefactor to the neighbourhood 
 that has the happiness to claim him as resident ; we need hardly add that 
 strangers are admitted to the demesne on week days. We would recommend 
 the Dublin entrance, and proceed past the house to the back-gate, on the 
 hilly road from Newtown-Mount-Kcnnedy to Glcndaragh and Altadore — the 
 former a mile from the back-gate of Mount Kennedv, and a nule and a half 
 from the town. Here a battle was fought, in '98, by Lords Rossmore (the 
 first peer, General Cunninghanie) and Kingsborough, in which the rebels 
 were defeated. 
 
 Near the entrance to Glcndaragh is the gate leading to Altadore, a greatly- 
 admired demesne, before entering which we should continue along the public 
 road about a mile farther, where, from the higher elevation, a better view of 
 the rich tract reaching from the hills to the sea is obtained. Woodstock, 
 
 £
 
 50 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 
 
 however, is the spot of most general renown in this neighbourhood, both 
 because of its great natuj-al beauties, and because the house itself, late the 
 property of Lord Kobert Tottenham, now of his relict, abounds in objects 
 beloved* bv sight-seers. We need not recommend a journey, for all the local 
 gossips and guides will be emphatic in urging it, and all we shaU say is — Go 
 at once. Coming back again to Delgany, a favourite resort, not alone of 
 tourists, but of the Dublin citizens and the brain-worn students of its Uni- 
 versity, much for healthful, and a little perhaps for historic pm-poses, as the 
 neighbourhood is rich in reminiscences of the kind. 
 
 Kcturning hence, the tourist may come through Roundwood, to which we 
 have before adverted. From this point roads branch off to several interest- 
 ing scenes ; the most attractive of which are again I oughs Tay and Dan, if 
 not previously visited. This excursion should be made on foot, at least the 
 greater part of it, by the Annamoe road to Oldbridge, where is obtained a 
 charming view of Lough Dan ; then turning up a beautiful glen, through 
 which the road ascends gradually, comes a point commanding a new view of 
 famous Luggala demesne, besides revealing Lough Tay in fullest beauty, 
 mirroring the suiTounding mountains in its glassy depths. 
 
 But here, in the veiy heart of the county, we must pause — leaving it to 
 the tourist's discretion or caprice to retui'n to his head-quarters, and turn 
 which way he will, he is certain to be gratified. The following are the 
 distances ft-om Dublin to the more prominent places we have become 
 acquainted with, viz. : — 
 
 Dublin to Bray about 13 miles, Newtown-Mount-Kennedy 22, Ashford 28, 
 Rathdrum o8, Vale of Avoca 42, Wooden Bridge 46, Arklow 50. 
 
 Sttmmart of Seats and Distances. — We now recapitulate the most 
 memorable of the places %isited, together with a few others oui- aiTangements 
 would not pemiit us proceed to, but which the reader, not content with what 
 he has seen in company with us, must make out himself. Any infonnation 
 he is short of will be supplied at the Bray Hotel, by ^Nlr. Quin, a name of 
 gi'eat celebrity in these parts for two generations, and to whose deserved 
 influence the present proprietor is continuously adding. AVc should also 
 remark that, in anticipation of the importance which will be attached to 
 Bray by the opening of the railway, a fine hotel has been built by Mr. W. 
 Dargan at the terminus, for the object of providing sufficient accommoda- 
 tion for the nmnerous %'isitors, who no doubt will avail themselves of the 
 many attractions which this neighboui-hood presents, and which can be 
 reached in so short a time by the railway to open in July. The lessee of 
 this new, and we doubt not most prosperous, hotel is Mr. Breslin, who 
 rendered himself highly popular during the Exhibition of 1853, in the 
 capacity of keeper of the principal refi-eshment saloon in the gi-eat Indus- 
 trial Building. 
 
 First as to seats : — Earl of Wicklow, Shelton Abbey ; Earl of Meath, KU- 
 ruddery ; Earl FitzwUHam, Coolattin ; Earl of Militown, Russboro' ; Earl 
 Carysfoi-t, Glenart : Earl Aldborough, Stratford House ; Lord Monk, Ennis- 
 kerry ; Hodgson, Bart., Holly brook ; Ciampton. Bart., Loughbray ; Howard, 
 Bart'., Bushby Park ; Acton of West Ashton ; Bayly of Ballyai-thui- : Bradell 
 of Bullingate ; Biyne of Croneybyrne : Putland of Bray Head ; CaiToll of 
 Ballinure ; Cunninshame of Blount Kennedy ; Grattan of Tiiuichinch ; 
 Grogan of Slany Pai'k ; Hume of Humewood ; Kemmis of Ballinacor ; 
 Latouche of Luggalaw ; Pamell of Avondale ; Saunders of Saunders' Grove j
 
 DUBLIN TO WICKLOW. 51 
 
 Synge of Glenmore ; Tighe of Rosanna ; Tottenham of Ballycurry ; Well of 
 Knockrigg ; Westby of High Park ; Wmgfield of Cork Abbey ; &c. 
 
 Roads — many of them leading by the streams, t'lrough the glens and 
 gaps, or passes, are : ( 1 ) From Wicklow to Ashford (near Devil's Glen) 
 4 miles, Newtown-Mount-Kennedy 10, Delgany (near Glen of the Downs) 
 13, under Little Sugarloaf Bray 18, on to Dublin 30. (2) Wicklow to Rath- 
 drum 8, Meeting of Waters 11, Arklow 19, on to Gorey 29. (3) From 
 Rathdrum up the Avonmore to Laragh Biidge 6, Annamoe 9, Roundwood 12, 
 Mulnaveige 14, under the J)ouee and by the Dargle to Enniskerry 2'2, by the 
 Scalp to Dublin 34, or by Mulnaviege to Luggalaw (near L. Tay) 16, Sally 
 Gap 17 (head of Liffey 21, L. Bray 23, on to Tallaght 31), under Kippure, 
 Seefinano, &c., to Blessington 29, or Rathcoole 34 ; or by Laragh Bray to 
 Glendalough 7 (up Glenmacnass on the military road past a fall to SaUy Gap 
 17), Wicklow Gap near Tonelagee and L. Nahanagan 13, imder Black 
 Rocks 17, the Liffey (near Poiilaphouca) 22, Blessington 24. (4) From 
 Rathdriim to Ballinacor and Grecnan Ho. 3, Up Glcnmalur under Lugduff 
 and past the mines to Ess Fall under Lugnaquilla 12, past Imayle Glen to 
 Donard 19 (Stratford 23), Dunla\'in 24; by Hallinacor to Aghavanagh under 
 Croghan-Moira and Lugnaquilla 9, Rathdangan 14, by Humewood to Bal- 
 tmglass 21, on to Car low 31. (5) From Rathdi-um over Cushbawn to Carys- 
 foot 6, Aughi-im 8, Tinnahely lo, Coolattin 19, Carnew 21, on to Ennis- 
 corthy 39. The military road past Croghan-Moii'a, Laragh, Bray, Sally 
 Gap, &c., runs through the heart of the mountains. 
 
 Finale. — Our rapid run through Wicklow is now complete, as far as our 
 limits will admit. But the whole locaHty has been so done and overdone in 
 description -these descriptions are so accessible in every form — the country 
 itself is so studded all over with attractions— that we present the foregoing 
 rather as an index to more extensive information, obtainable from the sources 
 enumerated, than as satisfactory in itself, to save those whom time wil. 
 allow to make only the most cursory acquaintance with this captivating 
 district. Guide-books to Wicklow are even more numerous than those to 
 Killarney, and it is difficult to prefer any in particular. Generally speaking, 
 unlike such publications clse^^here, the more copious they are, the more 
 interesting. Our difficult^', however, has been compression ; for we con- 
 ceive that brevity here, if not exactly the soul of wit, is the spirit of useful- 
 ness ; and this being our object, we have said, in the most circumscribed 
 space, what we deem essential, and no more — trusting to our faithful artist 
 to atone for all short-comings in the letter-press. Our Irish friends will 
 think we have not been sufficiently ornate in description. But we are now 
 haunted by the terrible eye of that "distinguished foreigner"* to whom 
 gentlemen in the House of Commons are always mentally referring the 
 hypotheticated advantages and disadvantages of the British Constitution ; 
 persons now come amongst us not only familiar with Highgate and Primrose- 
 hill, but with the Alps and Himalayas, the Pyrenees and the Andes ; and 
 these find, as Inglis says, that though " Wicklow is beautiful, everything is 
 petit — a beautiful minuteness." 
 
 * Prince Puckler Muskau. 
 
 E 2
 
 SECOND TOUR-DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN.
 
 54 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEEXSTOWN. 
 
 At the extreme west of Dublin, contiguous to King's-bridge, south of the 
 Liffey, is the metropolitan teniiinus of the Great Southern and Western, 
 two stories high, wings the height of basement story, from which rise 
 gi-aceful clock-towers ; the whole faced with mountain granite, constituting 
 a noble modern architectural ornament of Dublin, the appropriateness of 
 style to purpose being perfect, and the interior nearly equalliiig anything 
 of the kind in England. 
 
 The line is particularly easy and pleasant to travel on, passing for a long 
 distance through the central limestone field of Ireland, which, being very 
 level, has afforded great facilities; but on leaving this field, and getting 
 into the clay-slate formation, the works involve heavy cuttings, embank- 
 ments, and viaducts, and a considerable tunnel. There are technical pecu- 
 liarities at the Cork end, not necessary to detail; but one characteristic is the 
 straightness of the line, effecting in gradients what others effect in curves 
 and cuttings, and pursuing an unusually direct couise from point to point, 
 nearly exact south-west. From Dublin to Cork is 165 miles, through 
 KUdare, Queen's and King's Counties, Tipperary, Limerick, and Cork, tra- 
 versing the great Bog of Allen (by rails on a floating bridge), and through 
 the rich valleys of Leinster and Mimster. The stations are remarkably neat 
 and pretty, and distance-posts are at intervals of a quarter of a mile. The 
 undertaking is in the highest degree crecitable to Ireland ; its traffic is 
 rapidly increasing ; and its management is most exemplary — thanks, in a 
 great measure, to the able supervision of Mr. Ilberry, director of the traffic 
 department. 
 
 In our first issue we stated that the traveller would do well to provide 
 himself with a complete set of railway charts. Since then we have incor- 
 porated such of these as may complete the tours comprehended in our Hand- 
 book. 
 
 Clondalkin, Lucan, and Hazel-hatch, are the first thi-ee principal 
 stations. Hazel-hatch completing ten miles. As the line runs very nearly 
 south-west, we can only depict its novel salient points by confining ourselves 
 to the northern and southern sides of it : and first, on leaving Dublin, \% ill be 
 observed on the north the Phoenix Park, the Wellington Testimonial, already 
 alluded to, 122 feet high, upon which are inscribed the victories, from Assaye 
 to Waterloo, of Ireland's hero. George the Fourth termed it " an overgrown 
 milestone." North side is the Royal Hospital of Kilmainham, established 
 1675, for disabled and superannuated soldiers, on the site of a prior}-, 
 founded in 1174, by Strongbow, Earl of Pembroke, for Knight Templars. 
 The present building, designed by Wren, founded in 1683, is quadi'angular, 
 ^06 feet long, 288 broad, and two stories liigh ; — dining-hall 100 feet in 
 length, and 50 in width, the lower part wainscoated with oak, and orna- 
 mented with military weapons. Here are the apartments of the master. 
 Commander of the Forces for the time being. Next, on the south, will be 
 noticed the great works (locomotive department, &c.) situated at Inchicore, 
 where are handsome cottages, devoted to drivers, stokers, and others em- 
 ployed by the company. Below Inchicore is seen Drymnah Castle, an 
 ancient stronghold of a once great family, the Barnwells, of whom the 
 surviA'ing head is the present (fifteenth ) Lord Trim lest on, the tenth baron 
 of which name was attainted by \A'illiam III. for adherence to James; the 
 title was not acknowledged till the thirteenth peer obtained a confirmation 
 of his right to the barony in 1 795, as explained in our Drogheda route. 
 
 On the opposite side is Ballyfermot Castle and Church, dedicated to St.
 
 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN. 55 
 
 Laurence, and the Templars. Clondalkin is celebrated for a round tower 
 in great preservation, 84 feet high above the base (solid stone), of rubble 
 masonry, and 4 "> feet in cu'cumferenee. Its strength was tested some yeai's 
 back by an explosion of powder mills in its neighbourhood, which it stood 
 uninjured. The basement is now cased with modern stonework for its 
 protection. 
 
 Lucan and Hazel-hatch present a good deal of interest. The former was 
 the property of the Sarsfields ; and the famous general of that name was 
 created Earl of Lucan by James II. ; his deeds continuing to be enshrined 
 in the popular mind in Banim's, Lover's, and other fictions, which per- 
 petuate the traditions that have descended to us concerning him, though 
 historic proofs of their accui'acy are hitherto somewhat scant, unless, indeed, 
 the explorative genius of Mr. Macaulay, in his forthcoming third volume of 
 the " History of England," shall discover fi'csh evidences on behalf of the 
 Milesian hero of adversity in the Kevolution, though in reality he was of 
 English family. Lexlip is a much-admired resort of pleasure-seeking 
 DubUn Cockneys, and will be, as well as other portions of this neighbour- 
 hood, described in the route to Galway. 
 
 Celbridge Abbey, seat of Henry Grattan, second son of the celebrated 
 man whose name he bears, and former residence and burial place of Swift's 
 Vanessa (died 17'2;i), is within a mile of Hazel-hatch. 
 
 Carton, the seat of Ireland's only duke (Leinster), four miles from Cel- 
 bridge station. The mansion, formerly belonging to the Talbots, is of a 
 princely character, on the Kye water. In l849 the Queen and Prince 
 Albert much admired its collection of Claudes, Poussins, and several Dutch 
 masters, including Holbein's " Earl of Kildare." In its neighbom^hood is 
 the College of Maynooth, for which we must Likewise refer to our Galway 
 tour. 
 
 Between Hazel-hatch and Straffan (succeeding station) is seen Lyons 
 Castle, seat of the late estimable Lord Cloncurry, who exi^ircd, in his eighty- 
 first year, last November, at his maiine residence, Maretimo (on the Dublin 
 and Kingstown Railway). The extensive mansion is on the site of an 
 ancient castle destroyed by the O'Tooles. Within it valuable works of art 
 were accumulated by the late illustrious owner, dm'ing a residence on the 
 continent. 
 
 KlLLADOON, north side of the rail, is the fine residence of the Earl of 
 Leitrim, father of Lord Clements, late member for Leitrim, and late Assistant 
 Poor Law Commissioner. Below Straffan, on the south, is the hill of 
 Oughterard, 438 feet high, crowned by remains of a round tower. In the 
 churchyard lie several Ponsonbj's, prelates of Bishopscourt. At foot of the 
 hill is Bishopscourt Castle, the splendid residence of the Earl of Clonmel. 
 
 At Siierlockstown the line crosses the Grand Canal by a huge timber 
 bridge ; and further down, the canal is again crossed by a similar bridge. 
 On the south of the first bridge is visible Palmerston House, seat of Earl 
 Mayo, a representative peer, father of the late Irish Secretary, Lord Naas, 
 M.P. for Coleraine, by only daughter of Earl Roden. At Osberstown, 
 eighteen miles fi'om Dublin, is a rather deep cutting. 
 
 Naas, a most ancient town, is in the immediate neighbotu-hood, replete 
 with interest as the residence of the kings of Leinster before the conquest 
 of Ireland. Councils and parliaments were held here between the thirteenth 
 and fifteenth centirries ; and within the town is a rath, on which the 
 " states " of LeiiLster are said to have had their General Assembly. Near
 
 56 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN. 
 
 Naas, which, alternately with Athy, is the assize town for County Kildare, 
 in the centre of a fertile tract of country, are the remains of Jigyingstown, 
 a building commenced on an enormous scale by Strafford, the luckless vizier 
 of the hapless Charles I. The Grand Canal, which runs past Naas, being 
 also contiguous to the railway, has lately become of importance. At SalHns, 
 two miles from Naas, the line crosses the Liffey, in its devious course to the 
 capital, by a handsome bridge, 270 feet long, of eleven spans, each nineteen 
 feet wide. Five miles further north is the Hill of Allen, sight of Fingal's 
 or Almhin's Hall, of Moore's song, commanding a wide prospect of that 
 " Dismal Swamp" to which it has given its name. One of Ossian's scenes 
 is laid here, and it is the accredited retreat of Fin ]\I'Coul ; but there are 
 two Hills of Allen, one east, the other north of Kildare. 
 
 Great Council Abbey, on the south side of the line, is seen, being 
 the ruin of a magnificent priory, founded in 1202, and, when suppressed 
 by Elizabeth, handed over to Sir E. Butler, of the illustrious house of 
 Onnond. A mile further on brings us to New Bridge station, an extensive 
 military depot ; passing which, we enter on the famous CURRAGH, a vast 
 unbroken, bleak plain (404 feet above the sea), consisting of 4,858 statute 
 acres, the property of the Crown, and appropriated to racing and coursing. 
 Here the adiacent proprietors have the privilege of grazing sheep ; and on 
 the southern margin are collected numerous residences, including " Jockey 
 Hall" and "Turf Lodge." Several battles have been fought on this plain. 
 The Volunteers assembled here in 1783 ; and in 804, 30,000 " United Irish- 
 men" encamped on it. On the Curragh, once a forest of oaks, are niunerous 
 earth-works, mostly of a sepulchral character. 
 
 Beyond the Cm-ragh is seen the Red Hill of Kildare, 679 feet high. 
 Passing through the Cm-ragh, we arrive at Kildare station, Kildare town 
 being seen southward, now small and poor, possessing few attractions for 
 any but the antiquarian inquu'er. Amongst its ecclesiastical ruins rises a 
 round tower, 130 feet high. 
 
 St. Bridget founded the religious houses subsequently erected. Here 
 was her famous nunnery in 584, and in which, ages after, was an old 
 small building, wherein, it is supposed, the nmis of the saint kept the 
 inextinguishable fire mentioned by Giraldus, and alluded to in one of the 
 melodies of Moore. These houses consist of the small ruined cathedral, con- 
 taining the sepulchral vault of the earls of Kildare, and in which Robert, 
 Duke of Leinster, father of the present diike, was interred. Kildare has a 
 Roman Catholic chapel, nunnery, and friaiy ; several schools, ruiu-mary, and 
 sessions-house. 
 
 MoNASTEREVEN is the next town. A good view is obtained of the 
 demesne of Moore Abbey, the fine seat of the Marquis of Droghcda, occupy- 
 ing the greater part of the hill to the south of the town. The modem 
 spacious mansion is on the site of a Franciscan abbey, on the banks of the 
 Barrow, which runs for two miles tlirough the demesne, also watering 
 Monastcreven. The Grand Canal here separates, one arm to Mountmelick 
 and Portarlington, the other to Athy. Monastcreven contains a venerable 
 church, a good Roman Catholic chapel, and various public schools. Large 
 markets are held, and many respectable people have located here. It is 
 wholly the property of the marquis, and might become tlnt'iving and popidous. 
 In the inmiediate locality are splendid demesnes and residences ; — Kildan- 
 gan Castle, seat of Mr. E. O'Farrel ; Jamestown, seat of Mr. R. Cassedy ; 
 Gray Avern, Mr. J. Armstrong; Belgrove, Mr. G. Adnir; Rath, Mr. W. H.
 
 58 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOTSTJ. 
 
 Dcane ; the Derries, Mr. R. Alloway, &c. Th.e railway here passes a nobk* 
 viaduct of malleable iron. 
 
 P0HTARLING1\>N, the next station, is represented by Colonel Dunne, late 
 Clerk to the Ordnance ; the " Port " being on the Barrow, which rmis past 
 the town, one of the neatest in Ireland, containing the school in which the 
 " young idea " of Wellington was fii'st taught to " shoot," together with that 
 of his illustrious brother, the ^larquis of AYellesley ; the " boys " coining to 
 Portarlington from their (now ruined) residence of Uangan Castle, near 
 Trim, County Meath, of which hereafter. Six miles from the station is 
 MouNTMELLiCK, close to which are the works of the Irish Beet-root Sugar 
 Company, the development of whose undertaking is now watched with 
 peculiar interest ; and those who have given most attention to the subject 
 say that abundant data have been gathered to \\ arrant a zealous adherence 
 to the course entered upon. A little beyond the town is Emo Park 
 (demesne of Earl of Portai'lington, head of the Dawson family), whose new 
 mansion (on the south) is considered the finest modern one in Ireland ; the 
 demesne celebrated for its deer and artificial lake. About here, standing out 
 insulated, the renowned Rock of Dunamase is seen on the south. On the 
 summit stood Strongbow's stronghold (the ruins remaining), afterwards the 
 scene of many sieges, and finally demolished by Cromwell. The Rock 
 commands a prospect to an almost inconceivable extent, there being ■visible 
 a sweep of nearly twenty miles in every direction around (the immediate 
 scene of the Wars of the Pale) ; buj^ ascent is impossible, save on one side. 
 It belongs to Lord Congleton, and is the focus of tourist cm-iosity, especially 
 amongst explorers of the memorabilia of Anglo-Irish feuds and feudalism. 
 Next station to Portarlington is Maryborough, which gives the title of 
 Baron (Constable of the Castle of Maryborough) to Earl ^lornington, head 
 of the Welleslej-s, is the county town of Queen's County ; small, not pros- 
 perous, and unhappily situated in a flat, uninteresting country. The lunatic 
 asylum (covering twenty-two acres), and the county gaol, are fine buildings. 
 Hence to Ballybrophy (66 miles from Dublin) the line rmis thi-ough a dull 
 tract, principally bog, backed by the Slievebloom mountains. Between 
 Ballybrophy and Templemork (Tipperai'v) is a far finer country, and 
 objects of interest abound. The Devil's Bit mountains (on the north), of 
 which the Bit (the name arising in a legend explaining itself in the title) 
 forms the summit, rise 1,57 J feet, springing from the verdant hUls about 
 Roscrea (north of the line, at Ballybrophy), and sweeping circularly from 
 the Slievebloom range, along the northern limits of the rich country between 
 Templemoi'e and Tipperary. The Bit forms the famed Rock of Cashel. 
 RoscREA, the property of Eai'l of Portai'lington, lies in a beautiful plain, 
 between the Slievebloom and Devil's Bit mountains. An abbey was founded 
 here by St. Cronan in the seventh ceutmy, the orily portion standing being 
 a cm'ious gable, pierced by an archway, over wliich is a full-length figure of 
 the saint, much mutilated ; and at the sides are several ai-ched niches, 
 ornamented with chevrons. In the church-yard is shown part of a circular 
 cross, called the Shrine of St. Cronan, with the Crucifixion rudely scidptured. 
 Near it is a fine round tower, in gcod preservation, 80 feet high and 15 
 diameter ; around its base are two tiers of stone steps, and about 15 feet 
 from the ground a circular-arched doorway, 15 feet above which is a pointed 
 window. The top of this tower was destioyed by lightning, A.D. 1135. A 
 circular tower, part of a castle built by King .lohn, is stiU standing, as aha 
 a squai-e castle, built by the Ormond fixmily in the time of Henry VIII.
 
 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN. 55) 
 
 A most interesting feature of the country through -which the traveller 
 hereabouts passes is the number of ancient castles, either close to the line or 
 a short distance at either side. After leaving Ballybrophy, until we reach 
 Dundi-um, this is particularly remarkable. Travelling the country of tho 
 O'Moores, Fitzpatricks, Fogartys, and Butlers, we see such objects con- 
 stantly — some in fine preservation, some in various stages of decay. The 
 entii-e of Upper Ossory, which the line intersects, appears to have been 
 encompassed with a cii'cuit of these castles, each communicating with those 
 next it, forming a perfect circle of defence around. Each "hold" has its 
 special story ; and those who have time may find amusement in the legends 
 which attach to each. Near Templeboy, is Long Orchard, seat of the 
 most accomplished of all modern Irish tribimes, the late Florentine ambas- 
 sador, Richard Shiel, biu'ied in the neighbouring chui-chyard. 
 
 The Priory, Templemore, seat of Sir John Craven Garden, Bart., in 
 this portion of Tipperary, is beautifully situated on an eminence, surromided 
 by an extensive park, which comprises some of the finest wood in the South 
 of Ireland. Sir John is a large proprietor, and a greatly-esteemed resident 
 landlord. He married the only daughter of Captain Claarlcs G. Kobinson, 
 R.N., many years conducting the Admiralty Sui-vey of Scotland. Several 
 members of Captain Robinson's family have, dui'ing the last two centuries, 
 followed the same gallant profession, and been highly distinguished ; none 
 more so than his brother. Captain Edward Robinson, R.N., one of the few 
 survivors of the desperate action of Feb. 7, 1813, between L'Arethuse, 
 French frigate, 44 guns (24 pounders) and 340 men, and H.M.S. Amelia, 
 Captain the Honourable Fred. P. Irby, on' which occasion' the enemy lost 
 105 killed and woimded, and the Amelia 141 men killed and womided, oiit 
 of an original force of 300, as detailed in Gazette, 1813, p. 583. The neat 
 town of Templemore owes its origin to the Knights Templar. It now 
 possesses a handsome church and Roman Catholic chapel, and spacious 
 infantry barracks. One of the entrances to the Priory is a pictiu'esque 
 remnant of the castle of the Knights. In the handsome and well-kept 
 demesne, on the northern side of a fine sheet of water, are ruins of their 
 ancient priory, the \(estern gable of which contains a perfect and beautiful 
 window of the later period of Gothic architecture. South of the lake are the 
 ruins of an enormous square keep, whose walls, formerly enclosing the 
 court-yard, or bawn, extend a considerable distance ; a noble pointed gate- 
 way still remains in excellent preservation. Whether for ancient mterest or 
 modern beauty, few places in this fine portion of Ireland are more attractive 
 than the estate of Sir John Carden, who worthily bestows that vigilant 
 attention on modern Avants and requirements which should characterise an 
 improving landlord and active country magistrate, his accomplished lady 
 being a fitting auxiliary in every good work calculated to maintain the hos- 
 pitable repute of the once chivalrous Priory. Sir John is son of Sir- Henry 
 Robert, a distinguished Waterloo and Peninsular officer. He was born at 
 Templemore-house, in 1819 ; succeeded his father in 1847 ; educated at 
 Eton, and was formerly heutenant 8th Hussars ; appointed deputy-lieutenant 
 t)f Tipperary in 1844 ; is descended from the Lincolnshire branch of the 
 Cardens of Kent, who sprung from the Gardens of Cawarden, Cheshii'e. 
 
 The ancient and now prosperous agricultui-al town of Thm-lcs, on the 
 Suir (87 miles from Dublin), has been the field of many battles, the Danes 
 having been defeated here in the 1 0th century, and the English settlers by 
 O'Brien, and there having been divers conflicts in its neighbourhood during
 
 60 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN. 
 
 the parKamentary wars. Our space and arrangements will not permit of 
 details of its present characteristics ; and all we can find room to say is, 
 that it is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Cashel, and contains 
 numerous religious and educational edifices pertaining to the same faith; 
 the celebrated " Synod" having been held here in 1850, under the presidency 
 of Primate Cullen. Next station is Goold's Cross, leading to Cashel. 
 At this point innumerable traces of ecclesiastical and feudal splendom* 
 abound. Holy Cross Abbey, three miles from Thm4es, is a splendid reUc, 
 said, according to an undistui-bed tradition, to have been built as a depository 
 for a fragment of the holy cross, presented to one of the O'Briens, the abbey 
 being founded and endowed by Donald O'Brien, king of Limerick, in 1182 ; 
 and its superior being a mitred abbot, with a scat in Parliament as Earl of 
 Holy Cross. The building is cruciform, consisting of a nave, chancel, and 
 transept, with square belfrey at the intersection of the cross. In each 
 transept are two chapels, beautifully groined. Between these and the south 
 transept is a double row of three-pointed arches, supported by twisted pillars 
 two feet ffom each other, and having a similar pointed arch in front. The 
 choir arch within the chui'ch is not, as is usual, beneath, but in advance of 
 the tower. The steeple rests on foxu" beautifully-groined arches, connected 
 in the centre by ogives passing diagonally from their angles, and the roof of 
 the choir is similarly ornamented. East of Goold's Cross, eight miles 
 distant, on the Cashel section of the line, stand the town and famous RocK 
 OF Cashel, which, though out of the tourist's route, cannot be well left 
 behind without a visit ; but perhaps it will be better to defer the " City of 
 the Kings " till our returning from the south. 
 
 Twelve nules intervene from Goold's Cross to Limerick Junction 
 Station, the only point of interest passed being Dundi'um, near which is the 
 seat of Lord Hawarden, one of the largest private parks in tliis part of 
 Ireland, and also famous for its deer, as is very appropriate that it should 
 be, seeing that the noble owner traces his descent, or, at least, the heralds 
 do for him, from Eustace de Montealto, styled the " Norman hunter," 
 who came to the assistance of Hugh Lujdus, Earl of Chester, at the period 
 of the Conquest. Vast tracts of land have been reclaimed here by the pro- 
 prietors of Dundrum. 
 
 At the Limerick Junction Station, 107 miles from Dublin, the traveller to 
 Limerick changes from the Southern and Western to the Waterford and 
 Limerick line, Limerick being 23 miles from the Junction, at and about 
 which are several points claiming notice. The town of Tipperary, only 3 
 miles distant, is in the very centre of the rich tract through which the line 
 has been passing, watered by one of the Suir's numerous tributaries. The 
 towering Galtees are discernible from the Junction. Arthur Young says, 
 they are certainly the finest of the Irish inland ranges, whether as to 
 elevation, appearance, or fertile surface ; and so they continue to be regarded, 
 Galtmore, their highest summit, rising 3,008 feet. The land near the 
 station is Earl Derby's, having been purchased by him when Lord Stanley ; 
 his handsome modern mansion, erected by himself — Bally Kisteen — being 
 visible from the rails. Surrounded by a finely-cultivated estate, in the 
 midst of a grand coimtry, and commanding noble views, it is natural that 
 his lordship should be nearly as frequently a visitor to his Irish as to his 
 hereditary Lancasliire estates, the noble ex-premier being as deservedly 
 popular in one country as he is esteemed and admired in the other. At the 
 sale of his farm-produce here, dm'ing last year (1853), the prices realised for
 
 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN, 61 
 
 stock of all kind were immense. He has since let the greater portion of the 
 soil he previously farmed himself, and, of com-se, at high rents. 
 
 Knocklong is the first station after leaving the Junction. The hold hill 
 of Knocklong, with the ruins of a church, and several castles, are visible 
 from the station — each with a legend too lengthy to tell — but the sublimated 
 natiu'e of whose romance may be inferi'cd from the circumstance of the site 
 of these mouldering keeps of the O'Hui-leys being watered by a streamlet of 
 the poetic name of the "Morning Star!" Emly, mentioned by very old 
 writers — but not by Ptolemy, as some of our wise guide-book makers tell 
 us — as one of the three principal towns of Ireland, is passed on the way to 
 Knocklong : it is now not to be found in nine out of any ten maps of Ireland. 
 Two miles north of Knocklong is another ancient place, Hospital (so called 
 from the Templars, by whom a Preccptory was founded here in 1266, by 
 Geoffrey dc Marisco, and given as Kcnmare Castle to Sir V. Brown), a 
 village, with ruins of castle and church. 
 
 Six miles north of Knocklong is LouGH-GuR, 4 miles in circumference, 
 containing several islands, one with ruins of the stronghold of the Desmonds, 
 the last of which romantic race is said to have been made captive on one of 
 those watery circlets. Around the shores are most extensive supposed 
 Druidical remains — stone circles, altars, and other rich rude monuments, 
 some of gigantic dimensions ; and beneath these Titanic debris of an elder 
 world have been found, in the adjacent bog, the prodigious bones of the long- 
 extinct Irish deer. On the south shore is an old church, from which are 
 seen many of the massive Druidical remains, and a passage leading between 
 high pUes of these stones. Not far fi-om it is an apparently sepulchral 
 chamber, thirteen and a half feet by six, formed of large stones, with a 
 roofing of huge flags, and popularly known as Diarmod and Grain's Bed. 
 
 On the other side of Knocklong is the famed and beautiful Glen of 
 Aherlow, compared to the best of those of Wicklow, formed by the Galtee 
 mountains south, and Slievenamuck north ; and in it Keating, the Irish 
 Herodotus, wrote the history of his country, 
 
 KiLMALLOCK (124 miles from Dublin), called the Baalbec of Ireland, is a 
 mass of rains, of every sort of ruin, at every stage of ruin. It had been 
 distinguished long anterior to the arrival of the Anglo-Normans : a round 
 tower (notwithstanding mediaeval restorations) attesting very ancient pre- 
 eminence, and later ecclesiastical magnificence being indicated, in some 
 peculiar ruins, of the early Chi'istian era of Ireland. It was a walled town 
 before the English invasion, and was known as the chief city of the Desmond 
 branch of the native chiefs, the Geraldines, and of great strength. Some 
 stone mansions are left, fi'om which it is inferred that the civic splendour of 
 the place was at its height anterior to the reign of Ehzabeth. Its military 
 history is famous, the concluding chajiters being sieges by Cromwell and the 
 Duke of Berwick. Outside the town, on the river Loobagh, most conspicuously 
 stand the ruins of a Dominican abbey, fomided 1291. The Hill of Ard- 
 PATRICK, with its stump of a mouldering roimd tower, is seen from the line 
 south of KUmallock and Mallow (145 miles from Dublin). There is but 
 little on which to pause here, unless we note some gold and fossil remains 
 having been foimd at Sunville, the old seat of the Godsals. Charleville 
 is a neat little town, called thus euphoniously by the Earl of Orrery (original 
 name Rathgogan) in compliment to his master, Charles IL The earl built 
 a splendid hovise here ; and the Duke of Berwick, in the war raised by his 
 father, James II., maliciously biu-nt it down. The manor now belongs to
 
 62 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN. 
 
 the Earl of Cork and Orrery, who, a descendant of the celebrated philo- 
 sopher, Robert Boyle, is a soldier who has seen much service — a general in 
 the army, having been at Flanders, Valenciennes, and Dunkirk ; also in the 
 expedition under Lord Moira in 1794, and having been with Abercromby, 
 at Alexandria, 1801. 
 
 Six miles from Buttevant was the vast stronghold of the Barrys, Liscarrol 
 Castle, now in ruins, built by King John. A change in the agricultural 
 character of the country will be remarked here. We leave the rich cham- 
 paign landscape, and enter the hilly district, which extends westward to 
 the Atlantic. The deep, heavy, loamy soils, with their exuberant herbage, 
 give place to more elevated lands and less luxuriant vegetation, the hills 
 gradually blending with the mountain ranges. Rounding the Ballyhoura 
 mountains, before we reach Buttevant station, an extensive view is obtained 
 of their southern slopes, and of the diversified country eastward along 
 their base. 
 
 Near Charleville is the town of Mitchelstown, with the adjoining magni- 
 ficent castle and demesne of the Earl of Kingston, now in the Encumbered 
 Estates Court, like the patrimony of so many other patricians. Between Mit- 
 chelstown and Caher are the famous Mitchelstown Caves — stalactite caverns 
 of enormous extent. Buttevant, now mean and reduced, was once opulent 
 and flourishing — numerous ruins telling the contrast — the abbey containing 
 the remains of those who fell in 1647 at Knockninoss, when Su* Alexander 
 M'Donnell (the " Colkitto" of Milton's sonnet, and " Ollistrum More," i. e., 
 " Alexander the Great," of Irish story) was killed. Buttevant Abbey is 
 perhaps one of the most attractive objects journeying onward to Cork. The 
 symmetry and grace which still adorn its faded glory and ruined beauty, 
 call forth warm praise. Greatly admired are the remains of a priory, 
 founded 1290 by the Barrys, earls of Barrymore, who held the manor (now 
 belonging to Lord Doneraile, a representative peer), and whose war-cry 
 against the M'Carthys, Boutez en avant, " Put Forward!" gave this name to 
 the town. The chief interest, however, of Buttevant, at least to English 
 tourists, is its association with the Faerie Queens. He who sang of " Mole, 
 that momitain hore," and " MuUa mine, whose waves I whilome taught to 
 weep," resided at Kilcolman Castle, where he often received Raleigh, who, 
 like himself, had obtained large grants in this part of Ireland, from Eliza- 
 beth. The castle of Buttevant is on the east of the town, rising fi'om a rock, 
 overhanging the Awbeg. When Spenser fled, in 1598, Kilcolman was 
 plundered and partially burnt down by the Tyrone insiu'gents. After the 
 Restoration, the grandson of the poet was put in possession of the estates 
 granted to Sir Walter; but forfeited them by his adliesion to James II. 
 They were again restored to the family, but have long since passed from 
 them. 
 
 Mallow, on the romantic Blackwater, forty-three miles from Limerick, 
 twenty-one from Cork, possesses no particular manufactures, but has a 
 good retail trade, and the weekly markets for butter and corn are well 
 attended, being one of the best country towns in the south. It was much 
 resorted to in summer formerly by gentry, and still attracts citizens of 
 Limerick, Dublin, and Cork, on account of the mineral waters, whose 
 properties are nearly identical with those of Clifton — recommended chiefly 
 for consumptive patients. It retvirns to Parliament Sir C. Denham Orlando 
 Jephson Norreys, Bart, proprietor of the town, who has sat since 1826, 
 except the beginning of 1633, when Mr. Daunt was retuiuied, because the
 
 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN. 63 
 
 present member would not favour repeal ; but Mr. Daunt was unseated on 
 jKJtitiou. 
 
 Hills and deep ravines diversify the country from Mallow to Cork, conse- 
 quently the cuttings and fillings are proportionately extensive. From the 
 elevation which the rail generally maintains, good \iews on either hand are 
 commanded. 
 
 From DubUn to Mallow the Great Southern and Western, and from 
 Limerick to Tippcrary the Waterford and Limerick Kailway, rmi through the 
 limestone plain occupying so great a portion of the centre of Ireland. At 
 Mallow the former Une meets the schistose formation, in which it continues 
 to Cork. 
 
 Mallow has hitherto been the nearest railway station to Killarncy, but 
 now the line is open throughout between these two important touiist-towns. 
 The Killarncy Junction is thirty-nine miles long, from the iNIallow station on 
 the Great Southern and Western Railway to Killarney. Various circum- 
 stances delayed the formation of the undertaking ; but its completion was 
 effected and the line opened by the present Lord Lieutenant (St. Germains) 
 in the early part of last summer. 
 
 Hitherto, good coaches ran from Killarney to Mallow in five hom-s, now 
 that journey is accomplished in a little more than one. The scenery is not 
 of a character to need description. ]MlLLsTREET, with its one street, is the 
 only village of any pretensions along the line ; and it is only to be observed 
 from its situation, at the head of the glen wliich separates the Boghi'a and 
 Cahii'baua mountains. 
 
 Twenty more miles beyond IS'Iallow bring us to Cork ; and in performing 
 this closing part of the journey, attention will be di-awu, in a far greater 
 degree than hitherto, from the country to the railway itself. The stupen- 
 dous viaduct over the Blackwater is most honourable to Su- J. M'Nede's 
 Irish engineering skill, and from that point into Cork the cuttings become 
 numerous and deep, the city being entered by a tunnel, now nearly com- 
 pleted, three-foiu'ths of a mile long. 
 
 At the Blarney Station, two miles fi'om the famous castle, and the groves 
 " which look so charnung," we catch a glimpse of that venerable pile, 
 embowered in woods, and storied in song ; already antici])ating the delight 
 of next day's di-ive fr-om Cork, " a pilgrim to the Blarney Stone." 
 
 CORK AND THE SCENERY OF THE LEE. 
 
 Blackpool Terminus and Suburb. — As the train hastens to its desti- 
 nation, we look to the right and catch a view at intervals of the deep and 
 tortuous glen on the Mallow road, and of the lofty viaducts tlu'own across 
 it, and shortly afterwards enter the temijorary terminus at Blackpool, where 
 a corps of well-trained officials and a coiu'teous station-master minister to all 
 .easonable topographic cm-iosity. Here our tourist first makes acquaint- 
 ance with the real Irish cannan, a very distmct genus from the UubUn 
 vehicular homo. In the southern Jehu there is a national pecularity still 
 more strongly developed among that variety of their craft called " Jingle 
 Boys," in the items of an original humour and ready wit, and also in a 
 willingness to oblige (and to appropriate as a passenger) " the strange 
 gentleman," occasionally vociferously urging theii- good offices and attention 
 to luggage in a manner bewildering to the new comer, whom we would 
 recommend, after he leaves the train, not to be too precipitate in departing 
 from the terminus. A word to the station-master, Mr. O'Sulhvan, and. a good
 
 64 DL'^LIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN, 
 
 car-driver will be pointed out ; or, better still, you and jour luggage -svill be 
 conveyed by omnibus to one of the principal hotels. Few things surprise 
 even the experienced travellers more than these cars or jingles. Mr. Barrow 
 was peculiarly struck with them, and not less, too, with their proprietoi-s, 
 though a stranger to no known mode of progression in any part of Europe. 
 He says, " They are very numerous in the streets ; indeed, I can scarcely 
 imagine how so many can answer the purpose of the owners. The charge is 
 sixpence from any one part of the town to another. Besides these, there are 
 plenty of travellers, as they are termed, wliieh carry in the same manner for 
 one shilling : they very much resemble Brighton flys. You can form little 
 idea of the anxious endeavours displayed by the jingle-men and traveUer- 
 di'ivers to secure a fare. From the moment the slightest intimation is made, 
 or a supposed intention of engaging a vehicle, one is immediately beset on 
 all sides with open mouths, proclaiming the superiority of their respective 
 jingles, and pointing to their miserable horses, so much on a par that it 
 would puzzle the most leanied in horse-iiesh to come to a decision. To do 
 so, however, is a matter of necessity, for so long as you hesitate you are 
 almost torn to pieces, but the moment you have fixed upon your jingle, the 
 squabbling is at an end." Nevertheless, we recommend the omnibus, and so 
 would Barrow, had such pieces of comprehensive utilitarianism been in vogue 
 at the period of his " Tour round Ireland " a dozen years ago. 
 
 Whilst waiting for such conveyance, you cannot better occupy a few 
 moments than in walking to the other end of the terminus, whence is a 
 capital view of the great works forming the continuation of the railway 
 towards Peni'ose quay and docks, constructing at the northern bank of the 
 Lee. Before you is the lofty hill of red sandstone, on which are the bai'racks, 
 overlooking the entire city and river ; whilst, penetrating its hard rocky 
 base, is the arch of the grand tunnel, bored through the bowels of the rock, 
 thus bringing the railway trains fi'om L)ublin to the verge of the river, 
 where cargoes can be unloaded with facility, at the very side of the steam 
 wharfs, and in the commercial centre of Cork. The omnibus conveys us 
 through an old and not very attractive part of the city, comprising a portion 
 of the far-famed Groves of Blackpool, a veritable hicua a non lucendo, for 
 trees there are none. Such, however, was not the case formerly, and some 
 majestic elms near the watercom'se remain, as mementoes of the once-umbra- 
 geous foliage erst surrounding this district, which even still continues a 
 focus of native manufactui'ing industry in the trades of dyeing, tanning, 
 weaving, wool-combing — not to speak of several large distilleries and 
 factories. Passing by the Foundling and Fever Hospitals, through Leitrim- 
 street, we cross a temporary wooden bridge, erected by Sir John Benson, 
 the architect of the Dublin Mxhibition building ; St. Patrick's Bridge, which 
 ■was a noble structure, having been carried away in many parts by the 
 terrible floods which inundated this city in the early part of last winter. 
 We enter Patrick-street, the central thoroughfare of business in " the 
 beautiful city called Cork," all of whose charms, however, are for the 
 moment subordinate in the traveller's eye to the fascinations of the com- 
 fortable hotels. 
 
 The Cork Hotels are numerous, agreeable, and reasonable. The one that 
 seems, 2^^'^ excellence, to have fii'st obtained and still to preserve the un- 
 qualified admiration of tourists is the Lnperial, which would be deemed 
 admirable amongst the best of its class in London or Cheltenham, and is 
 called by BaiTow, than whom there is no more competent sponsor, " the
 
 
 " ^ fi A N 
 
 Sicwing thf Vct Tburist R u ( n ft C it( \ haaloi Falwn) 
 BETWEEN CORK & KILLARNEV 
 
 1854.
 
 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN. 65 
 
 Clarendon of all Ireland." Its fine frontage commands an entrance to tht 
 noble corso of the South-mall, and also to Pembroke-street ; the formei- 
 tlu'ough the grand entrance of the Cork Commercial Buildings, the splendid 
 news-room of which institution is open to visitors at the hotel ; for a more 
 minute particularisation of whose merits we must refer to the business affiche 
 of the proprietors at the end of this volume, contenting ourselves with vouch- 
 ing for the accuracy of the assurances therein given. No tomist need be 
 scared from the hospitable portals of the Imperial by fear of its popularity 
 producing an impracticable pressure on its resources. Like the tent of Peri 
 Banou, in the fairy tale, %\hicli alike suited a squadron of cavalry or a 
 solitary pilgi-im, the Imi)crial is adequate to improvise entertainment for a 
 prince and his retinue, as in the case of Viceroy Eglinton's state visit to 
 Cork in 18J2, and is as admirably adapted to the requirements of a single 
 visitor as can possibly be desired. Moreover, whatever the duration of youi- 
 stay, long or short, or whatever the amount of your bill, great or small!^ the 
 assiduity of Mr. Cotton and his assistants is equally prompt, zealous, and 
 characterised by unobtrusive tact. While British journals resound, and 
 justly so, with complaints of " Biffins " and Griffins," about hotel rapacity 
 and incivility, at Folkestone, Dover, and elsewhere, it will be no small 
 novelty and gratification to the traveller sojoui'ning in the capital of the 
 south of Ireland to hnd an establishment like this — superaboundmg with all 
 possible accessories to luxui-ious enjoyment- acting up to a tariff that might 
 well be deemed reasonable in the third-rate inn of a thuxl-rate English to\^'n. 
 The profusion, sumptuousness, and recherche elegance that characterise the 
 daily table dliote, and the economy of Cotton's carte throughout, delight no 
 less than astonish all foreigners. Besides the Imperial, there is also the 
 fine one known as the Victoria, in the centre of Patrick-street, and con- 
 nected with the Chamber of Commerce, the spacious and elegant i)ublic 
 news-room of which is also open to the hotel guests. The great patronage 
 deservedly bestowed on the Victoria of late has led to large extensions of its 
 means of accommodation, nearly forty sleeping apartments having been added 
 this last twelve months ; so that, what with its admirable table d'hote and its 
 three omnibuses plying to the trains, the house is in every respect entitled 
 to the high character its worthy proprietor, Mr. M'Cormick, has so success- 
 fully labom'cd to seciu'e it. Lloi/d\s (George's-street) ; Thaviasini's (the 
 Italian Hotel), Warren's-place ; and the Albert (King-street), are all excel- 
 lent. There are also many minor hotels, where travellers can be well and 
 fairly accommodated, together with numerous private lodging-houses; but 
 on this head we must refer to our business appendix. 
 
 Cork City. — Public Buildimjs. — Issuing, let us suppose, from the front 
 of the Imperial, the visitor finds himself in the South-mall, \\liich houses 
 are, for the most part, faced with red brick, or cement; some fronted with 
 weather slating, which gives them a sombre appearance. This incongruity 
 pervading the whole city, in which scarcely any two contiguous dwellings 
 are of the same height, size, plan, coloui-, material, is quizzed by a local 
 Juvenal : — 
 
 " Here you may see 
 New houses proudly eminent o'er old, 
 Confused and interspersed — the old are clad 
 In sober slate— the new are gay with brick, 
 Like new red buttons on an old blue coat." 
 
 The building at the opposite side of the Mall was once occupied by the 
 
 F
 
 66 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEEN^)TO^V^^ 
 
 scientific body of the Cork Institution, now removed to tliat fine venerable 
 .structure, the Old Custom House, in another j^art of the city. Besides the 
 Conmiercial Biuldings, the South-mall contains the County Club House, a 
 handsome stone buUding in the Italian style. To the eastward, an opening- 
 at the end of the ^Mall reveals the south branch of the river, with the metal 
 bridge and portcullis, leading to the handsome Corn Market, of cut stone^ 
 where, and on the spacious ai'ca behind it, the Exhibition of 1852 was held; 
 ajiropos of which, a circumstance highly creditable to the taste and sph-it 
 which characterised Cork is e%idenced in their rendering theu- Exhibition 
 building a permanent structiu-e, and now called the Cork Athena?um. The 
 project of i-aisuig this haU of art in a city ever remarkable for the distin- 
 guished names wliich it gave to the catalogue of British artists, originated 
 v^ith the Rev. "William O'Sullivan, one of the most active of the executive 
 committee of the Exhibition. In conjmiction with Sii" John Benson 
 (arcliitect of the Dublin Exhibition building) the project was brought to a 
 successful issue, and this stnictiu'c now is fast approaching completion. In 
 the distance is seen the southern gate of the New Custom House, and, on 
 the otlier side of the river, the termini of the Cork and Passage and Cork 
 and Bandon Unes. In the midst stretches down the silver Lee, gUttering 
 in the sun, if sun there be, and thi'onged with i-l. pping. The eastwai'd 
 view to the north is bounded by the wooded heights of the Glanmire-road, 
 studded with a thousand residences of merchants and gentry. Turning 
 westward, the visitor passes the Bank of Ireland, a very fine cut stone 
 Corinthian sti'uctiu-e. Daley's Club House faces us at the exti'eme end^ 
 and as we approach the next tm-ning, on its pedestal, within a railed-in 
 space, is an equestrian statue of George the Second. Advancing to the 
 edge of the river, and looking westwards, there peeps, from amidst the dense 
 foliage with which it is sui'rounded, the venerable spii'e of St. Finnbar's 
 Cathedral — a most famous personage in these parts. Turning the corner, to 
 the right, is a still wider street, the outluie of the houses, however, being 
 irregular, viz., the Grand Parade, on coming to the middle of which it is 
 desirable to cross over to the other side, where will oi^en to us the vista 
 of a handsome street, forming the prmcipal entrance to the city from the 
 west, and called Great George's-street, designed by Sir T. Deane, the 
 ]Milesian Xash, with monuments of whose architectiu'al abilities this his 
 native city and many other portions of Ireland abound. His seat is a 
 short distance fi'om Cork, near the ruined castle of Dundanion [or the Firm 
 Fortress], a small structm-e of the Tudor era, remai'kable of its kind. At 
 the upper or western end of Great George's-street, is the beautiful Court 
 House, erected by ^lessrs. Paine, generally adniii'ed for its graceful external 
 proportions, greatly superior to its internal arrangements, and containing 
 the City and County Courts of Assize, with various law offices. From 
 George's-street we pass onwards to the great western road, where we again 
 encounter the south channel of the Lee (forming its seaward junction with 
 the north branch, at the Custom House, by the eastern apex of the central 
 city) ; and looking to the wood-crowned heights across the stream, we see 
 one part of the Convent of Mercy, by Deane ; and gain another view of the 
 Finnbar Cathedral, and also the elevated site of the old monastic institute of 
 Gil Abbey, higher up the river's banks, whereon the noble Queen's College 
 stands. A little further up, to the west, a tm-ning to the right brings us 
 near a most charming avenue of rich foliage, called the Mardyke — by Cork- 
 agians " The Dyke ; " a colonnade of stately elms, whose branches meet in
 
 DUBLIN TO COKK AND QUEENSTOWX. 67 
 
 light tracery overhead, and extending fully a mile, straight and uninter- 
 rupted. At either side flow many deej) and narrow streams, far too pellucid 
 to remind one of the Hague, or other " dykes" of the Dutch school, wliich 
 they otherwise somewhat resemble in their accessories, if not in themselves. 
 Beyond these little streams lie rich meadows and lawns, the sites of elegant 
 villa residences. To the left of this beautiful arcade, embowered amidst 
 foliage, gleams the rich Tuscan front of a buildhig, above which springs a 
 massive tower with radiating wings, the grated windows of which, and the 
 fly-wheel of the tread-mill gp-ating on the roof, proclaim the County 
 Prison ; and if we turn to the right, on the opposite liigh ground, on the 
 Sunday's AVell side, we see the City Prison, in a different style and of a 
 different kind of material ; the former of limestone, di'awn from the quarries 
 in the vicinity, and the latter red sandstone, from the quarries on the 
 north. This geological formation extends from the Aery source of the Lee, 
 at Gougane Barra — of -which romantic spot hereafter. Even where the 
 stream may be jumped across, limestone is found on one side, red stone on 
 tlie other. Admission to inspect the admirably -man aged interior economy 
 of both prisons is readily accorded. Having reached the upper end of the 
 Mardykc, our tourist may return by the western road, on the one hand, or, 
 passing over Wellington Bridge, across the north branch of the Lee, 
 ascend the heights of Sunday's Well, and returning by that road, make a 
 complete detour of the old city. From Sunday's Well road, at various 
 poults, are obtained views of scenery of a character that sufficiently justify 
 all that the tourist may have heard of the environs of Cork, embraced, as it 
 is, mtlun the branches of the Lee, and embosomed amidst hiUs covered 
 with A-erdm-e, far as the eye can stretch. The river is seen winding tlu-ough 
 scenes of varied loveliness, away down to the noble estuary of Lough 
 Mahon ; Glenmii-e's wooded hills, and Blacki-ock with its pietm-esquc castle 
 and richly-planted grounds, forming the sides of the picture, the ^hole 
 presenting a scenic tableau wliich alone would repay a visit to Ireland, 
 Avere notliing else Avhatcver affoi'dcd to the tourist's admiration. 
 
 The Bells of Shandon. — Oui- little book making no pretensions to 
 amplitude of topograpliic detail, the utmost compression of facts, and merest 
 generaUsing, are imperative conditions of oui- plan. Still there is one beauty 
 in the Beautiful City Avhicli must be made conspicuous in om- pages, for 
 reasons obA'ious to cAery unlettered reader — Shandon steejile ! — which, we 
 may say, Avithout a pun, Mahony, our artist, has rendered in a manner 
 worthy 'of Prout the painter, and not unworthy of Prout the poet. We 
 cannot introduce the subject better than in the words of the fellow-citizen 
 and brother humorist of the bard, Croft on Croker, Avho says : — 
 
 " The steeple of St. Anne, or Upper Shandon, in which hang the cele- 
 brated bells, is 140 feet high, and, being built upon an eminence, is remark- 
 able in every point of view of the city; but especially from what Moore has 
 termed ' its noble sea avenue,' the Lee. This chiu'ch was commenced in 
 1722, its steeple constructed of the hewn stone from the Franciscan Abbey, 
 Avhere James II. heard mass, and from the ruins of Lord Barry's castle, 
 Avhich had been the official residence of the lords president of Muuster, and 
 whence tliis quarter of the city takes its name, — Shandon {Sean dun) sig- 
 nifying, in Irish, the old fort or castle. But as the demolished abbey had 
 been of limestone, and the castle of red stone, the arcliitcct of Shandon 
 steeple combined the discordant materials by constructing tAvo sides of Avhite, 
 
 F 2
 
 SHANDON STEEPLE, CORK. DRAWN BY MAHONT. 
 
 '"^•C / 
 
 %^^
 
 MATHEW TESTIMONIAL, MOVNT PATEICK, CORK. DRAWN BY MAHONY.
 
 70 
 
 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN. 
 
 the remaining side of red stone : a cii-cumstance occasioning many local 
 jokes, the most memorable of which are some rhymes commencing 
 
 Party-coloured, like the people, 
 
 Red and white stands Sliandon stccjjle, 
 
 said to have been addressed to Dr. Woodward, Bishop of Clojnic, by the 
 famous Father O'Leary. The author of the lyric now given is the Kev. 
 Francis Mahony. It was originally published in ' Fraser's INIagazmc ' for 
 1834, and is reprinted in ' The liehques of Father Front,' i. 255, where the 
 reverend author, after indulging in his usual strain of facctiousness, speaks 
 really from his heart. A discussion about the melody of bells is thus 
 concluded : — ' All these matters, we agreed, were very fine ; but there is 
 nothing, after all, like the associations wliich early infancy attaches to the 
 well-known and long-remembered chimes of our own parish steeple ; and no 
 music can equal them upon oui' ear, when retiu'ning after long absence in 
 foreign, and perhaps happier comitries.' " 
 
 THE BELLS OF SHANDON. 
 
 Sabbata. panoo. 
 funera plango. 
 solemnia clango. 
 
 } 
 
 Imcrlption on an old Bell. 
 
 With deep affection 
 And recollection 
 I often think of 
 
 Those Shandon Bells, 
 Whose sounds so wild 
 
 would, 
 In the days of childhood, 
 Fling round my cradle 
 
 Their magic spells. 
 
 On this I ponder 
 Where'er I wander, 
 And thus grow fonder. 
 
 Sweet Cork, of thee ; 
 With thy bells of Shandon, 
 That sound so grand ou 
 The pleasant waters 
 
 Of the river Lee. 
 
 I've heard bells chiming 
 Full many a clime in. 
 Tolling sublime in 
 Cathedral shrine, 
 While at a glibc rate 
 Brass tongues would vi- 
 brate : 
 
 But all their music 
 
 Spoke nought Uke thine. 
 
 For memory, dwelling 
 On each proud swelling 
 Of thy belfry knelling 
 
 Its bold notes free, 
 Made the bells of Shandon 
 Sound far more grand ou 
 The pleasant waters 
 
 Of the river Lee. 
 
 I've heard bells tolling. 
 Old ' Adrian's Mole ' in, 
 Their thunder rolling 
 
 From the Vatican, 
 And cymbals glorious 
 Swinging uproarious 
 In the gorgeous turrets 
 
 Of Notre Dame ; 
 
 But thy sounds were sweeter 
 Than the dome of Peter 
 Flings o'er the Tiber 
 PeaUng solemnly. 
 
 Oh ! the bells of Shandon 
 Sound far more grand on 
 The pleasant waters 
 Of the river Lee. 
 
 There's a bell in Moscow, 
 While on tower and kiosk 
 
 O! 
 In Saint Sophia 
 
 The Turkman gets, 
 And loud in air 
 Calls men to prayer 
 From the tapering summit 
 
 Of tall minarets. 
 
 Such empty phantom 
 I freely grant them ; 
 But there is an anthem 
 
 More dear to me, — 
 'Tis the bells of Shandon, 
 That sound so grand on 
 The pleasant waters 
 
 Of the river Lee. 
 
 Father Mathew.-- -Another celebrated personage, and one to whose 
 honour is erected an edifice scarcely less observable than that on the pre- 
 ceding page, is the inestimable Apostle of Temperance, Father Theobald 
 Mathew. The monument we speak of, erected at the sole expense of an 
 admirer of the great social reformer, is situated about five miles from the 
 city, and stands on one of the most prominent and conspicuous heights over- 
 looldng the river, commanding a view not perhaps to be surpassed in 
 Europe. The new chvirch of the Capuchins, to which order Father Mathew
 
 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QTIEEXSTOWN. 71 
 
 origiiialh- bcloiig-cd, is noAV finished, thoupli the oripcinal design has not 
 been carried out, remaining so because of the poverty of the chiss by whose 
 voluntai-y subscriptions the funds were sui)plied, during the famine and 
 pestilence with which the country was visited in '46 and '47. Father 
 Mathcw has unfortunately been recently attacked with paralysis, which has 
 rendered him wholly luuible to pursue his course of active and benevolent 
 usefulness. In the chvu'ch siioken of is a window composed of stained glass, 
 Avhich tlie tourist should sec before leaving Cork. It is of beautiful design 
 and most florid in adornir.cnt, and called the O'Connell Memorial "\^^indow : 
 perhaps, in the many monuments erected in Ireland to the great agitator, 
 there is not one more deservedly admired. 
 
 Blarney, its Stone, Groves, and Castle. — Passing from Sunday's 
 Well, round the North-mall, still north of the river, we proceed by (without 
 crossing) the old North Gate Bridge, at the foot of which the old North Jail 
 once stood, under which Avas an arch leading into the north main street. 
 •Continuing along Pope's Quay, pausing to inspect the fine Dommican 
 Church of St. ^Mary's, and thence onward by Camden Quay, and once more 
 over Patrick's Bridge into Patrick-street, and thence tlu'ough Wintkrop- 
 street, wc reach the Imperial Hotel, wherein, after the morning's walk (or 
 perhaps partly drive, partly walk), such as prescribed, we shall have earned 
 ;i traveller's appetite for an " imperial" breakfast. Startuig agam on a 
 further inspection, especially westward, in which direction we have caught 
 glimpses of hill and dale, wood and water landscape, such as have given 
 their early inspirations to the native artists whose young genius has bee:i 
 fostered in the '• city of Sweet Bells," we betliink us of one celebrated 
 locality hereabouts ; and, forthwith engagmg a good outside car, liie towards 
 the Groves of Blarney. Passing the villas of Simday's "Well, " the straw- 
 berry-beds of Cork," to the right-hand rise the parapet mounds enclosmg the 
 basins to which water is raised for supplying the city, and farther on the 
 new Lunatic Asylum. After passing beneath the groimds of Shanakiel, 
 the seat of ^Ir. D. Leahy, the landscape momentarily becomes -still more 
 interesting. The Lee circumvolves in endless mazes through a verdant 
 " inch," or bottom, wliilst at either side the banks rise in fantastic and 
 fascinatuig decliA-ities, with here and there a lofty rock, surmomiting one of 
 which, on the opposite side of the river, is Carrigrolian Castle, long a ruin, 
 but recently made habitable, with large saciifice of the picturesque to the 
 domestic. A short drive amidst delicious woodlands brings us -within ^iew 
 of Blarney Castle, crowning an elevation in the centre of a fertile vaUey, 
 surrounded by rich plantations. The castle comprises a vast square tower, 
 erected in 1475, by one of the potent sept of the M'Carthys, records of 
 whose prowess arc everyAvhere to be met with in this part of Ireland, and 
 .some evidences of which we shall have to mention as wc proceed further 
 south. But those of our readers who would at once satisfy themselves upon, 
 tliis head, in reference to a spot so renowned as that we are now treating of, 
 may consult, with great profit, the learned, elegant, and most accomplished 
 local historian, Windcle, whose " South of Ireland " A\-ill be found very 
 A-aluable, contauiing nearly fifty images devoted to Blarney, its Castle, Stone, 
 Cromlagh, Tunnel, Lake, Glen, Koiuid Tower, and immortal " Groves," the 
 authorship of which deathless lyric has begot as many claimants as cities 
 erst contended for the birthplace of '• the blind old man of Scio's rocky 
 isle." These stanzas have been given in nearly all the tongues of the earth 
 by the laureate of the Lee, Padre Polyglot Pront, whose liquid triplets to
 
 f — 
 
 BLARNEY CASTLE, FROM THE PEKP HOLE ON THE BRIDGE. DRAWN BY MAHONY.
 
 <4 DUKLIX TO CORK AND QUKENSTOWX. 
 
 that limpid stream we shall presently quote. "We need not occupy oiir space 
 ^\'ith the orig-iual of Millikin's half-dozen verses descriptive of how " the 
 trout and salmon play at backgammon," as no one can be in Cork and find 
 himself at a loss for the song, -^-ith ad libitum variations endless, including, 
 of course, Prout's supplemental lines : — 
 
 There is the stone there, that whoever A clever spouter he'll sure turn out, or 
 
 kisses An out-and-outer — " to be let alone." 
 
 Oh ! he never misses to ofi-ow eloquent ; Don't hope to hinder him, or to bewilder 
 "Tis he may clamber to a lady's chamber, him — 
 Or become a member of Parliament. Sure he's a pilgrim from the Blarney Stone. 
 
 Which is the identical pebble, or real Blarney Stone, is somewhat difficult 
 to point out to the downright plain-dealing English visitor, for the Irishly 
 redundant reason, that there happen to be tico portions of the edifice to 
 which the miraculous power of conferring mellifluous and mesmeric 
 eloquence is attributed by conflicting local authorities. One stone is 
 pointed out as the veritable osculatoriiim ; it is much more easy of access, 
 and fi-om previous devotion is much worn and broken. Another stone is 
 also indicated, but is held to be a lajns ojfensionis and a petra scandali ; it 
 is situate in the wall below the edge of the parapet, and requii'es the party 
 pcrfonning the kissing business to be let down by the heels over a parapet 
 some hmidi-ed feet from the ground. This pciilous predicament, however, 
 is not always insisted upon ; for Mr. Barrow, in his piquant manner, 
 describing how he went tlu'ough the process, says : — " I ascended the 
 summit of the tower, on a corner of which is placed the famous Blarney 
 Stone, wliicli I was very gravely assui'cd possessed the power of making 
 those who kiss it ever after agreeable to the ladies. ' A consimimation 
 devoutly to be wished,' thought I. ' Och, yom- honoirr must kneel down 
 and kiss it three times,' quoth the guide : ' and shui-e you'll be able to coax 
 the ladies — fait, there's niver the giiitleman that misses!' 'Xow, my 
 fi'iend, tell me ti-uly if you don't mean by talking blarney, the impudence 
 of telling mighty big lies without blusliing?' 'Fait, and I believe youi- 
 honour has just hit it ; and shm-ely don't the gintlemen talk blarney to the 
 ladies, and do it all the better for kissing the stone ?' I fomid there was no 
 resisting, so down I popped, and the stone having been well washed by the 
 rain, I bestowed upon it three kisses, which, however sti'ong their virtues 
 may be in warmmg the hearts of the ladies, struck icy cold to my Ups." 
 Mr. Windcle, whose local amour propj-e might be supposed to incense him 
 against the flinty-hearted Saxon satirists of his slab, ingenuously says himself: 
 " The touch of the Blarney Stone makes a liar of the first magnitude, but a 
 smooth and graceful liar — its eminent perfection is a sweet and graceful 
 tongue ill whispering the softest words into the ear of woman, full of guile, 
 and blandishment, and potential flattery, and micontrollable in its sway 
 over the credulity. Miss Plumptre translates Blarney into the single word 
 * Khodomontade,' — a faculty of speech marvellously perceptible in the 
 vicinage around, whose inhabitants, it is said, have been mistaken by 
 Boullaye le Gouz and Latocnaye for a colony from Gascony. They are, of a 
 truth, a swaggering, vainglorious, wheedling population." Flattering this, 
 and fi-om the Herodotus of the place, too ! All these imputations, however, 
 can hardly be titie ; for even the proprietor's kiss of the stone itself, like the 
 Wonderful Lamp in the hands of the old magician in Aladdin, did not 
 confer happiness, inasmuch as the castle's contents had not veiT long ago to
 
 DUBLIN TO CORK AND (iUKI•;NSTO^VN. 75 
 
 be sold by public competition — a profanation bemoaned in an nppropriate 
 strain by Front in an inimitable parody on ^Moore's "Evelecn's Eowcr," 
 beginning- 
 Oil ! the Muse shed a tear, 
 "When the erucl auctioneer, 
 With a hammer in his hand to sweet Blarney came ! 
 
 In 1821, Sir Walter Scott, witb bis son-in-law Lockhart, Miss Edge- 
 "wortli, and otber celebrities, paid tlic bomage of their vrorsbip to the load- 
 stone, much to the chagrin of the citizens, who were eager that the Wizard 
 should in preference inspect their noble harbour and " the lions of the 
 spreading Lee, that, like an island fair, encloseth Cork Avith his divided 
 flood," as is said in the " Faery Quecne," or as a more modern hard de- 
 scribes it : — 
 
 As crystal its waters are pure. Of salmon and p;rcy-spccklcd trout 
 
 Each morning; they blush like a bride ; It holds such a plentiful store, 
 
 And when evening comes gray and demure, That thousands are forced to leap out, 
 
 With the softness of silver they glide. By the multitude jostled on shore. 
 
 Siu'prisingly enough, however, Ijockhart confounded this firmotis >Spenserian 
 stream with the Shannon ! — a blunder which forms the text of one of those 
 most instructive " Essays of an Octogenarian," by the late erudite '• J. R." of 
 a thousand periodicals — James lloche, formerly a banker, and subsequently 
 a retired citizen of Cork. 
 
 It now only remains to note oiu* di-awing of this renowned structure, at 
 present belonging to St. John Jeflf'reys — a gentleman who has introduced 
 improved agriculture, and is eulogised by ^Ir. Caii'd (the Farmer of Baldoon, 
 and Times' Agricultural Commissioner), in his work on Irish husbandry. 
 Blarney Castle, and all about it, have been described by a thousand pens, 
 and delineated by twice as many pencils. In the latter medium, at least, 
 we may claim some originality, which in the former was impossible. Ours 
 is a new A'iew of the edifice overlooking " the comely eels in the verdant 
 mud," depicted by one " native and to the manner born," and who invests the 
 locale of liis being Avith attractions impalpable to other optics than the 
 mind's eye, which "makes every dear scene of enchantment more dear," 
 because of the mental atmosphere that surrounds it. Hacknicd as are the 
 objects to which attention is being called in a path so beaten as the one the 
 reader is now traversing, our accomplished artist, JNIr. James jNIahony, of 
 Cork — a townsman, a school-fellow, and worthy contemporary of ]Maclise — 
 has portrayed them in a fashion equally fresh and faithful. Beautifid also is 
 our second view. 
 
 Having admii'cd the delightful country round Blarney, we may return by 
 another road, which, at its city extremitj', brings us not far from the Black- 
 pool terminus of the Dublin raihvay ; the return by the road we came by, 
 is likewise suiTOundcd by scarcely less fascinating scenery — more we cannot 
 well say. 
 
 Cork to Queenstown — JDou-}} the Lee. — Re-entering Cork fi-om Blai'- 
 ncy, we recommend the tourist to proceed to Patrick's Bridge, and take 
 passage in one of the river steamers plying hourly to and from Queenstown, 
 and, if possible, contrive to go at full-tide. A few minutes after starting, 
 a glorious panorama breaks upon the view, as the boat rushes through 
 "the pleasant waters of the river Lee." On the left bank, terraces and 
 detached residences innumerable momit in acclivitous beauty along the side
 
 i I-' I 
 
 i I 
 
 [it ^' »(' I " i f 
 
 fiif *WII ^ 
 
 S .ill ('I'' 
 
 ililif
 
 ^ /J
 
 78 
 
 DUBLIN TO CORK AND QUEENSTOWN. 
 
 of the liill. The chaste tower and clas.sic portico of St. Patrick's Roman 
 Catholic chapel, and the pretty little Gothic church of St. Luke's, with 
 tapering spire, stand well out in the foreground. To the right is the Na\'i- 
 gation Wall, on the south of which runs the Cork and Passage Railway^ 
 skirting the City Park and wooded pleasure-grounds of the various de- 
 mesnes on the Blackrock-road. Keeping mid-channel course, we pass on 
 the north side the demesnes of Woodhill (Mr. C. Penrose), Tivoli (late Mr. 
 J. Morgan), I'^oi twilliam (Mr. G. Baker), Lota Beg (Colonel Hickman), and 
 Lota, the commanding residence of Captain Wood, Feltrim, the abode of the 
 estimable member for the city, and late member for the county, Mr. William 
 Fagan, and the mansions of other notabilities, stand upon our riglit. After 
 we leave the terrace beneath Tivoli, the channel takes a sweep to the souths 
 and Ave pass Duudanion Castle, as already mentioned, the seat of Sir T^ 
 Deanc, on whose grounds the Railway to Passage runs through a deep 
 cutting, over which a graccfid little bridge leads to the splendid mansion, 
 standing in the midst of venerable trees of fine growth. The ancient 
 castle, now an ivied roofless ruin, stands at a little distance in the gromids. 
 The present house, recently built by Sir Thomas, is, as might be expected, 
 in tine taste throughout. Li the hall is a mantel-piece of that green marble 
 which is procured from the quarries in Conneraara, and of which we shall 
 speak hereafter. Some other fine specimens also, from the same quarries, 
 will probably already have attracted notice in the County Club-house at 
 Cork. 
 
 On the right lies the cheerful-looking village of Blacki'ock, Avith its 
 prettiest of churches and fine chapel. A little further is the convent of the 
 
 BLACKROCK CASTLE, ON THE LEE, NEAU CORK. 
 
 Ursulmes, a buildmg more remarkable for size than architecture, one of the 
 most celebrated institutions of its kind in Ireland — perhaps in Europe — and 
 always visited by political, and especially by polemical, explorers of Hibernian
 
 DUBLIX TO COllK AND QUEENSTOWN. 79 
 
 social plicnoracna. We ucxt pass Blackrock Castle, built in the finest style 
 of castellated Gothic, on a projecting- mass of rock, completely commanding^ 
 this part of the river, as vessels are obliged to pass close under its walls to 
 keep -within the channel. The tower is used as a lighthouse, and from the 
 top is an excellent view uj) and down the ri^•cr. 
 
 Immediately as we round on our course we sec Castle ^lahon, seat of Sir 
 W. A. Chatterton, Bart., whose gifted lady has contributed so mucli to the 
 literatm'c of ovu' time. Steering agaiii a little north, we run towards 
 Inchera, scat of ]Mr. C. S. Oliver, and as the broad expanse of Lough Mahon 
 opens, the tourist will hardly be prepared for anything so beautiful, even 
 after the course we have been pursuing for some time back. Kunning up 
 at oui- right is the Douglas Channel, and the little island at its mouth is Hop 
 Island, so called after a dancing-master, to Avhom it lately belonged, 'j'he 
 fine house and demesne opposite it is Lakelands, seat of Mr. AV. Crawford, 
 of the firm of eminent brewers whose beverage is renoAvned throughout the 
 world, and lefcrred to in the once-popular ditty in the luies — '• Beamish and 
 Crawford brew potter with merit," and " Cork is the Eden for you, love, 
 and me." 
 
 Oiu" course now turns again to the south, Rockenham House, seat of yiv. 
 Noble Johnson, Comity Clerk of the Peace, being on the jutting promontory 
 before us. Opening on the left is Smith Barry's Bay, and the trees we see 
 in the distance shut out from view Foaty, the princely residence of Mr. 
 Hugh Smith Barry ; while on its eastern side is the wooded hill of INIarino, 
 scat of Mr. T. French. 
 
 P.\S3AGE. — At this rising watering-place and rendezvous for sliips of lai-gc 
 tonnage, the steamer stops for a short time at the Packet Quaj', near the 
 ternrinus of the Cork and Passage Railway. Passage is a place of great 
 local social fame, and has been hymned yi rhymes innumerable by Hiber- 
 nian bards of all eras, so much so that Crofton Crokcr gives no less than 
 three lyrics to the charms of the " Fail' ]Maid of Passage, as plump as a 
 Sassage," in his " Songs of Ireland." The bleak hUl on the opposite side, 
 A\ith the squalid-looldng houses at its base, is Carrigaloe. Under weigh 
 again, and as the river gradually narrows, we pass a Tui'kish-looking biuld- 
 ing with its domes and minarets, the Monkstown Baths. The house above 
 us on the hill is Carrigmore, Dr. Curtin's hydropathic estabhshment ; fui-ther 
 on is Rock Lodge and the Giant's Stairs, a name of course suggestive of 
 traditions relating to these jutting portions of the cliff, originally seven in 
 number ; but in making the new road two had to be removed. We now 
 come to charming 
 
 ]\IONKSTOAVN, with its pretty church, fine old castle, and its lumdi-cds of 
 S-\\dss snuggeries. If the tourist would stop here for an hour and ascend 
 the liill in the ncighboui-hood of Shaw's demesne, he would encounter a 
 scene not lUcely soon to be forgotten. Far out to sea may be seen the 
 Lighthouse, Camden and Carlisle Forts, and the whole craft-crowded 
 harbour of Quccusto-wni. Rounding White Point we observe the island of 
 Hawlbowline, and the huge masses of building erected on it as store-houses 
 for the navy. A little below this island is generally moored the guard-ship, 
 bearing the* flag of an admiral ; and so at last we find ourselves at 
 
 Queen STOWN, which has been considered so like the pictures we sec of 
 Algiers fiom the sea, being built on the side of a steep hill, and rising from 
 the water's edge, terrace above terrace, the more elevated parts commanding 
 a magnificent bird's-eye ^dew of the extensive anchorage. We have been
 
 /:( 
 
 i. » i'' * b 1
 
 82 DUBLIN TO COKK AND QUEENSTOWN. 
 
 now an liour corauig dovrn river, from Cork, some thii'teen miles ; and it 
 will be admitted, when the tourist shall have completed his inspection of all 
 Ireland, that tliis sail is one of the most delightful treats the whole island 
 has supplied. As wc proceed along from the city to the sea, the land 
 seems always around us. The river, in its perpetual changes, appears a 
 series of lakes, from which there is no passage, except over one of the encom- 
 passing hills, clad from smnmit to water's edge with every variety of fohage ; 
 graccfid villas, and ornameiitcd cottages scattered among them in profusion,, 
 and here and there some ancient ruin recalling a story of the past ; — these 
 well might justify a description that would seem akin to hyperbole. And 
 now wc have reached the noble harbour, suggesting the motto of the town 
 arms, Statio hcnejida carinis, one of the most beautiful in the kingdom, and 
 large enough to contain the Avhole navy of Great Britain. AVhile the 
 steamer is coming alongside the wharf, let the tourist's eyes be busy. East- 
 ward, not quite five miles distant, is llostellan Castle, seat of Admiral the 
 Marquis of Thomond ; nearly opposite us, looking south, is SpUve Island, the 
 natural breakwater of the iiarbour, noAV a convict depot. 
 
 After landing, be not anxious about the steamer leaving Axithout you, but 
 hiring a boat, sail over to Whitegate or Aghada, and look for an appetite for 
 dinnei-, where a dinner, and a good one too, Avill be found for yoiu- appetite- 
 As we pass along we see the entrance to the famed Caragaline river, which, 
 if time permits, should not be left unvisited. Having spent a few hoiu's 
 most agreeably in viewing the harbour, and some of the most prominent of 
 its many real sea-lions, not forgetting the three-deckers, we rctui-n back to 
 Quceiistown, prepared to do the amplest justice to the excellent cuisine of 
 Kilmui'ra3''s Hotel ; whence, without precipitancy inimical to digestion, we 
 proceed by car to the Ferry Point, or by one of the railway steamers plying 
 from Passage on the arrival of every down train, wliich run as late as ten 
 o'clock at night, and arrive in time for the last train to Cork. 
 
 Pk-isking the reproach of the reviewers for omitting topographic amplifica- 
 tion respecting Cork Proper, wc must now take leave of the Beautiful City, 
 fii'st, however, referring the reader who would become thoroughly acquaiutedr 
 not merely \dt\\ Cork, but with the whole district within a circle of pro- 
 bably 100 miles, to ]Mr. Windele's most comprehensive and invaluable little 
 volume, entitled " The South of Ireland," already named — a work replete 
 alike with antiquarian lore and modern interest, and written in a style of 
 scholarly elegance and with piquant freshness. No intelligent or inquii'ing 
 toxu'ist Avill fail to consult Wuidele, if only in respect to the City of Cork 
 alone, which, irrespective of its historico-political, archsrological, and vast 
 commercial importance, is celebrated more than most other cities in the 
 United Ivingdoin, as the birthplace of persons of eminence in the world of 
 literature and the arts. Among the natives are — Barry, Butts, Ford, Kill- 
 cher, and ]Maclise, painters ; the latter again supreme this year (1854) over 
 all competitors in the Royal Academy by his immense and magnificent his- 
 torical national picture, " The Marriage of StrongboAV with Eva, daughter 
 of M'MmTogh, King of Munster," after the battle near "NA'aterford [a. D. 
 1781], by which Henry II. obtained the vu'tual sovereignty of Ireland;* 
 
 * The advertisement, in our business pages, of the Waterford and Kilkenny 
 Railway Company, shows with what facility and economy the scene of this famous 
 incident may be visited, allusion being also made to the great work of the painter, 
 the subject of which is thus particularised in the official catalogue of the current 
 year's cxhibi-tion at Trafalgar-sq^uare, viz. : — " Richard de Clare, Earl of Pembroke,
 
 DURLIN TO COllK AND QUEEXSTOWN. 83 
 
 Murphy, the Spanish traveller ; General O'Lcary, and Father Arthur 
 O'Lcary, of polemic fame ; Miss Thompson, -wife of Emperor Mulcy 
 Mahomet ; Wood, the antiquary ; Townsend, the coimty historian ; Dr. 
 Magum ; Father (Mahony) Prout ; Crofton Croker (Wilson Croker, of the 
 Quarterly, is a Galway man) ; the Millikens ; Sheridan Knowles ; Hogan, 
 the sculptor ; Hastie, the Madagascar traveller ; the late Mr. James Roche, 
 already mentioned ; and many more ; of com-sc not forgctthig, probably the 
 greatest of all the literary benefactors of his country, the author of " The 
 Industrial llesomxes of Ireland," and President of Queen's College, Cork, 
 though Sir llobert Kane is a native of Dublin. Cork has not only contributed 
 a very large proportionate share to the literati of the land, but — as Thackeray 
 remarks, and gives many reasons for the phenomena he chronicles — the 
 citizens collectively are distingmshed for literary taste and artistic predilec- 
 tion in a greater degree than any other community, certainly than any 
 other commercial commimity, in the empii'e. 
 
 sumamed Strongbow (sometimes also called Earl of Chepstow, or of Strigliul), 
 receives the hand of the Princess Eva, from her father, Dermot Mac Murrogh, king 
 of Leinstcr, in fulfilment of his compact with that lord, and with promise of succes- 
 sion to his throne. The marriage ceremony was solemnised on the battle-field, after 
 the siege of the sacked and ruined city of Waterford, and it was in the midst of 
 its scenes of desolation that the conqueror received the hand of the Princess Eva ; at 
 which time, as the chronicler relates : ' The famous Strongbow did not celebrate his 
 particiilar wedding-day, but the indissoluble knot of the Irish allegiance to the 
 English Souvcraignetie ; with the same ring which circuled his wive's finger 
 aflBancing that island to this our country.' The picture represents the celebration of 
 the marriage beneath the ruined porch of the church of the period, and its round 
 tower— the triumph of the invading Norman knights — the submission of the Irish 
 chieftains — the mourning over the fallen — and the Jiurial of the dead. The period 
 was the vigil of St. Bartholomew, August 23, anno 1171, reign oSHenry II." 
 
 G 2
 
 liilll 
 
 i 
 
 % }
 
 CORK TO KILLARNEY. 
 
 From Cork to Killarney there are tlirce principal routes : 1st, tlirouj^h 
 Mallow, the shortest, but possessing fewest features of interest ; 2nd, by the 
 Cork and Bandon Railway, through Bandon, Enniskean, Dunmanway, Ban- 
 try, and Glengariflf. But the route we would most direct attention to is a 
 new one proposed to be travelled this season, viz., from Cork to Bandon by 
 railway, and through Crookstowii, the romantic scenery of the Lakes of 
 Inchigeala, Gougane Barra, and the celebrated Pass of Keimaneigh, to the 
 liead of Bantry Bay ; then entering the far-famed valley of Glengarift", and 
 through Kenmare to Killarney. 
 
 Cork to BiVNOON. — Halving disposed of an excellent breakfast at the 
 Imperial or Victoria Hotel, the tourist is comfortably conveyed by a well- 
 appointed omnibus plying from either of these establishments to the Cork 
 terminus, a neat yet handsome and commodious building, fronted vnth. lime- 
 stone, and possessing the best situation possible for a railway station, close 
 to the quay of the river Lee, and adjoining the Corn Exchange of the city; 
 where also an extensive pig-market is held, and a depot has been recently 
 established for the sale of flax, an article which we are happy to notice lias 
 been of late successfully introduced into the south of Ireland. 
 
 In addition to the ordinary traftic of tliis railway, it may be interesting to 
 refer to one branch of revenue realised in the summer season from excursion 
 trips, afforded to the residents of Bandon and the western districts, enabling 
 the passenger at a cheap return-ticket fare to steam down the beauteous 
 waters of the river Lee, on board one of the admirably-appointed river 
 steamers, visiting the most attractive points of interest within Cork harbour, 
 viz., Passage, Monkstown, Haulbowline Island, and Queenstown. The sketch 
 represents one of those excursion parties embarking on board the steamer 
 on arrival of the train at Cork. 
 
 Soon after leaving the Cork terminus, the train passes over the Chetwynd 
 Viaduct, nobly raised on arches of 100 feet liigh, and 120 feet wide, spanning 
 the deep glen that widens into the broad valley, through Avhicli winds the 
 Currabeg road, thus avoiding much of the bleak and uninteresting track of 
 the old mail-coach road in the western environs of the city, and reaches the 
 Waterfall Station, six miles from Cork. From this point a magnificent A-iew 
 of the " beautiful city " and suburbs of Cork is obtained, and the distant 
 mountains of Dunmanway, Kerry, and Kilworth are seen to great advantage. 
 About a mile farther on we reach the antiquated ruin of Mourne Abbey, ad- 
 joining which is to be seen the ruins of a Danish fort ; here the highest point
 
 CORK TO 13ANi)0N. 87 
 
 of the railway is readied, and we descend tlirougli a tunnel liali" a mile in 
 length, arriving at the Ballinhassig Station, ten miles from C(n-k. From this 
 ])oint omnibuses in connexion with the company ply to and from the towii of 
 Kinsale, nine miles distant. Winding along the deep valley of the Owenbeg 
 we arrive at the Upton Station, 15 miles from Cork, from which is to be seen 
 the picturesque and hospitable residence of the Rev. Somers Payne, who has 
 recently built numerous neat houses, and established a post-office close to the 
 station. 
 
 Emerging from the deep cutting at Rockfort, where it may be mentioned 
 that a vein of silver ore was discovered during the progress of the vrorks, 
 we now approach the most beautiful scenic attractions along the railway, 
 namely, the Briuuy and Bandon Valleys, at which point the rivers bearing 
 those respective names unite, close to the pictiu-esque ruins of Dundaniel 
 Castle. 
 
 Here, indeed, the lover of the picturesque may enjoy a delightful ramble 
 through this rugged, yet luxuriantly-planted glen, whicli forms part of the 
 extensive property of the Duke of iievonsliire, about one mile distant from 
 the pretty little to^wn of lunoshannou, the property of T. Frewen, Esq. A 
 stroll along the banks of this river from the lunoshannou Station into the 
 town will amply repay the traveller, returning to admire tlie " ^Meeting of 
 the A^'aters" at Dundaniel Castle, above adverted to, and which may justly 
 be considered equally worthy of a visit with the celebrated " Meeting of the 
 Waters" in the Vale of Avoca, the county of Wicklow. 
 
 The Bandon river has always been celebrated for its salmon and trout fish- 
 ing, and the angler may find plenty of sport along its l)anks for several miles. 
 Diverging from" the Brinny Valley,' the train enters the Bandon Valley through 
 ii tunnel 170 yards in length, and crosses the river of the same name, over a 
 liandsome bridge, constructed of timber and iron, to the Innoshannon Sta^ 
 tion, eighteen miles from Cork, and two from Bandon. The scenery from 
 this station to Bandon is indeed charming ; the railway runs parallel with the 
 river, which is sinuous in its course, the hills on each side of the vale being- 
 high and steep, and planted to their summit with varied and stately timber, 
 wiiile the numerous villas and gardens with which the whole is interspersed 
 add to the beauty of the pic'ture. Having passed through this "happy 
 valley," we arrive at the terminus, twenty miles distant from Cork, at the 
 " pleasant Bandon, crowned with many a wood," as Spenser called it. 
 
 Bandon is one of the largest, best built, and most respectably inhabited 
 ilistrict towns in the country. The river before alluded to flows through it, 
 and is spanned by a bridge. The old "bridge" originally gave its name to 
 the town, hence called Bandon Bridge, and as such it was represented for a 
 short time, previous to the passing of the Reform Bill, by Lord John Russell. 
 The western environs are singularly beautiful, and that immediate vicmity 
 ilerives no small portion of its attractions from the demesne of Castle Bernard, 
 the princely seat of the Earl of Bandon, Lord Lieutenant of the county, and 
 father of Viscount Bernard, the present member of Parliament for the 
 borough. The mansion is situated in the midst of a beautiful valley, planted 
 and laid out in the best taste, and adorned with magnificeut forest trees, the 
 rising grounds on either side being, moreover, covered with oaks, sycamores, 
 chesnut, and elm, whilst through the mead below winds the Bandon river, 
 stretching to the eastward ; the whole presenting a varied and captivating 
 landscape. Castle Bernard has been rendered conspicuous for the magnificent 
 hospitality with which the late Lord Lieutenant of Ireland (the Earl of
 
 :f'iM:i'; 
 
 ffli i| iilSfl 
 
 
 "•;:'■ ■'! 
 
 ¥1%\l ''''
 
 90 BANDOG'. 
 
 Eglintou) and his amiable Countess were received and entertained there, upon 
 the occasion of his Excellency's visit to Cork to open the Industrial Exhibition. 
 The conservatories, gardens, and the demesne grounds are most kiudly tlu'own 
 open to tlie public (.Sundays excepted), and great numbers of the Cork resi- 
 dents avail themselves of this permission, owing to the facility afforded by the 
 opening of the railway. 
 
 The tow:i of Bandon possesses several large breweries and distilleries, a 
 newly-built church, celebrated for its architectural beauty, and an excellent 
 hotel, called after the principal proprietor of the town, his Grace tlie Duke of 
 Devonshire ; there are regular weekly and montldy fairs held, which are 
 becoming very important and extensive. Here also the first movement was 
 made towards the introduction of the growth of flax into the south of Ireland, 
 consequent upon the commendable exertions of the truly useful member, Lord 
 Bernard, associated with some enterprising gentlemen in the ueighbom'hood, 
 viz., Mr. E. B. Roche, M.P., Mr. Shaw (who has recently established exten- 
 sive scutching mills in the locality), Mr. W. C. Sullivan, and a few other resi- 
 dent agriculturists. A flax society has also been formed; and there is little 
 doubt that ere long the produce of this important article in the south will 
 compete in honourable rivalry ^Adtli the sister north, the trial crops havmg 
 yielded very handsome profits. 
 
 It will be remembered that the loyal borough of Bandon was originally, and 
 for a long period, almost exclusively a Protestant settlement, enjoying the com- 
 plimentary appellation of the Southern Derry ; but before the beginning of tliis 
 century a large number of Roman Catholics settled vdthin the town, which 
 was then enclosed with strong walls, a handsome gateway affording ingress 
 and egress ; respecting which it is recorded, that over it Avas Anitteu the fol- 
 loAving liberal attempt at the poetic — 
 
 Turk, .Jew", or Atheist 
 
 May enter here, but not a Papist. 
 
 Bandon is justly famous for its whiskey ; and one of the settlers of the old 
 faith, rather of a waggish disposition, having taken an extra glass or two, was 
 returning at a late hour to the town, when he beheld, with no little astonish- 
 ment, the above interdiction ; being somewhat of a poetical turn of mind, he 
 inscribed Avitli virgin chalk the following repartee, a fair specimen of Bandon 
 
 humom- : — 
 
 The lad who wrote this vrrote it well, 
 
 For the same is -written on the gates of hell. 
 
 Before we take leave of this enterprising little towii, Ave may mention that 
 an Act of Parliament has been obtained for extending the railway from Ban- 
 don to Bantry, with branches to Clonakilty and Skibbereen, wliich wUl mate- 
 rially facilitate the tourist in his movements, and open up an extent of valua- 
 ble country, the mineral, fishing, and agricultural resources of which it is 
 impossible to estimate ; while at the same time little doubt exists of the line 
 being eventually extended to the important harbour of Crookhaven, the near- 
 est south-westerly point to the American continent, and where every proba- 
 bility exists of a transatlantic packet station and a depot for embarking and 
 disembarking passengers, mails, &c. betAveeu the old and new worlds, in addi- 
 tion to the telegraph communication, being permanently established. 
 
 Bandon to the South Coast, and Bantry. — K the tourist happens to 
 have time, we would suggest to him to diverge somewhat from liis direct 
 course towards the west, and devote a day to the country down by the coast. 
 This course will also be found economic, ijf two or more persons liire a car at
 
 BANDON TO BANIKV 91 
 
 Bandon, at sixpciice a mile, and proceed at tlieii- option along- the shores of 
 the Atlantic, every mile of Avhich opens np most picturesque nuirine scenery, 
 laiul-locked bays, studded with innumerable islands, presenting- the appearance 
 of inland lakes. One district, Avhich we more immediately refer to now 
 oug-ht, perhaps, to commence at Courtmacsherry (a perfect g-em in the 
 nautical landscape), thence to Clonakilty, Roscarberry, 8kibbereen, Castle 
 Townsend, Roaring Water, Ballydehob, Skull, the beautiful country round 
 Crookhaven, with Cape Clear, and so roxmd Dunmanus Bay, past Carrigboy up 
 to Bantry. Mineral richness teems here, copper cropping out in all directions, 
 especially towards Crookhaven, in itself worth a journey, if only to ol;tain a 
 peep at famous Cape Clear, where the Atlantic surge is first experienced in 
 all its majestic immensity hy the Avestern voyager. 
 
 It is impossible to speak of mines in the south, or indeed in any part of Ire- 
 land, without making- emphatic reference to the labours of the* late Colonel 
 Hall, father of Mr. 8. C. Hall, whose beautiful book on Ireland has been 
 truly a mine to which all compilers of tourist volumes (ourselves amon"- the 
 number), resort as to an inexhaustible soiu-ce, whether for facts or sugg-estious, 
 fancy or illustration. Colonel Hall brought a scientitic mind, a zealous heart, 
 and well-iilled purse to the mineral development of the south of Cork ; and 
 now that so many enterprises of a like nature are realising- results which he 
 did not live to see, it is but just that his memory be revered, especially as his 
 son and his daughter-in-law (the accomplished and exemplary Mrs. S. C. Hall), 
 have done, and are continuing- to do, in the literature and arts of the empii-e, 
 so much for the honour and advancement of Ireland. 
 
 In returning to Bandon, say to the excellent Devonsliire Arms, we proceed 
 to the west, taking- the lower road, through the towns of Enniskeau, Balli- 
 neen, Dunmanway, and Drimoleague to Bantry. After leaving- Bandon, 
 this road runs west through a portion of the Duke of Devonshire's vast 
 possessions, whose boundary can be discerned by the line of demarcation be- 
 tween it and other estates less happily circumstanced. The general aspect 
 of his Grace's property speaks well for the indulgent spirit of the noble 
 proprietor, and for the good feeling and kindly consideration of liis local 
 agent, Alexander Swanston, Esq., whose beautiful demesne, Coolfadda 
 House, is situate opposite to Castle Bernard. We next pass Mr. W. Bernard's 
 fine demesne of Mount Bernard, and then the adjacent grounds of Mr. W. 
 Galway; next, the little hamlet of Moragli, with its noble mills; and come in 
 sight of an ancient French chateau-looking mansion of red brick-work, with 
 pointed and rounded gables, formal terraces, and stately air, named Palace 
 Anne, Captain Bernard's quaintly unique seat, whose closely shaven lawn, with 
 daintily clipped liedges and lordly trees at each side, only seems to require a 
 group of dames, in long-waisted ch-esses and hoops, and of cavaliers in court 
 costume and flowing perukes, to realise a living tableau a la Watteau. Pass- 
 ing onwards, far to the right glimmers the humble spire of Dysart Church; 
 and then we enter Enniskean, a rather deserted village, though in the centre of 
 a tolerably good tillage coimtry, where, if anywhere, frugal industry ought to 
 thrive. Indeed, a short mile to the west is a village presenting- a strong con- 
 trast, viz., Ballineen, consisting of one long street, with a cross street, con- 
 ducting, down hill, to an ancient bridge of several small arches, leading to the 
 church and rectory of Ballymoney. The scenery along- the banks of the river 
 Bandon, from this point westward to Kilcaskin (seat of Mr. Daunt), Couuor- 
 ville and Fort Robert (family seats of unfortunate and now demented Fearo-us 
 O'Connor), and Manch (demesne of Mr. D. Coimor), is singularly beautiful. We
 
 '*} ^ fe^lJ J ? 

 
 r'i i;iiL,tii.]yi;iiittii mi. 
 
 
 ,. ' 
 
 p\ « 
 
 '':i 
 
 
 ;',' ' mi 
 
 11 if. 
 
 ^4M.^ 
 
 mk 
 
 i.Ml!lllJ!ikl! 
 
 iW 
 
 r't 
 
 f ^ ^
 
 94 BANTRY BAY. 
 
 pass Carriii^more, the noble residence of Lord Norbury, and cross Crooked 
 Bridge, where it spans the Blackwater near its junction with the Bandon. 
 Here is the best view of baroniaUooking- Kilkaskin, belonging to Mr. O'Neill 
 Daunt, well known for his literary qualifications, and from his active part 
 with O'Connell, whose confidential secretary and able public partisan he 
 long was. From this point, some miles of road, in beautiful order, smooth 
 as a bowling-green, and richly wooded on each side, runs straight as an 
 arrow: and, dashmg along it, brings us Avithin view of the splendid ruin of 
 Ballinacarriga Castle, once a stronghold of the sept of O'Hurley, a powerful 
 gang of rapparees, whose head claimed noble descent, and sustained his claim 
 in right feudal fashion by the strong hand. Tlie castle, reduced by Cromv.'ell, 
 retains some curious inscriptions and sculpture in the interior. The old church 
 of Fanlobus lies fixrther on, giving name to a large parochial district, and never 
 failing to prompt the oracle of the bo.x to discourse learnedly to the effect that 
 the remains of the person who was the true heir to the great Jennings' pro- 
 perty, comprising so many accumulated thousands, and so long the subject of 
 legal dispute, lie buried in this remote graveyard. 
 
 Passing the handsome demesnes Laurel Hill and Ballyhalwick, oui' excellent 
 stage coach (wliich in these railway times it would be worth going to the south 
 to look at) rattles into the stiiTiug yet prim little town of Dunmanway; on 
 whose left a lake is pointed out, wherein was drownied (1723) Sir R. Cox, a 
 monument in the church circumstantially recording the demise of this the last 
 baronet, near whose tomb is that of the founder of the family. Lord Chancel- 
 lor Cox. who died 1715. Eight miles north-east stands the Round Tower of 
 Kinneigh, one of the most remarkable in L-eland. The next stage by Drimo- 
 league to Bantry is rather uninteresting. The hills and gloomy heaths be- 
 come less inviting, until after passing a deep gorge the road winds, and a scene 
 of sublimity and loveliness bursts on the view, all the more enchanting from 
 contrast Avith the dreary tract we have passed. 
 
 Bantry Bay, approached either by the coast route through Dunmanway, 
 or through Gougane Barra, presents a truly glorious view. As neared along 
 the dreary road from Skibbereen, a sudden turn opens up the whole bay. In 
 the background are the Killarney mountains, Alaugerton, and the Reeks ; 
 nearer rises Hungry Hill (2,251 feet high, a principal sea-mark, haWng a re- 
 markable waterfall), the Sugar-loaf, and the Caha mountains, among wliich 
 are said by the peasantry to be 365 lakes — suggestmg the local legend that 
 some saint, of aqueous propensities, prayed for a pool for each day in the year. 
 Within the bay, at the spectator's feet, are many small islands ; the prettily 
 situated town, and, fiicing it, Whiddy Island, crowned with its imposing fort, 
 commanding the whole bay, whose length is about 21 miles; breadth, 2h to 9 
 miles; its shores land-locked by abrupt headlands. The town consists of two 
 streets, with a trio of excellent inns. Although the harbour is so fine and so 
 sheltered, little trade is carried on; even the fisheries have of late unaccount- 
 ably dftdndled. The road into the tomi runs immediately under Seacourt, the 
 exquisite demesne of the Earl of Bantry (deputy-lieutenant of county Cork, 
 and brother-in-law of Earl Listowel and Marquis of Thomond), nobly placed, 
 and as nobly rendered accessible to the public. The bay, feM' will forget, was 
 occupied in 1796 by a French fleet, commanded by the gallant and ill-fated 
 Hoche, caiTying 15.000 men for the invasion of Ireland, accortling to the plan 
 originating with Wolfe Tone, agent of the L'nited Irishmen. The fleet was 
 dispersed by a storm; and though an extensive squadron was re-collected, 
 Hoche, on tlie ground that he had received no encouragement from the pec-
 
 15AND0N TO CROOKSTOWN. 95- 
 
 pie, refused to laud. Mi*. Richard Wliite, for his exertions on that occasion,, 
 was made Baron of Bantry, and presented witli a gokl medal 1)y tlie citizens 
 of Cork; he was advanced to the earldom, with second title of Viscount Bere- 
 haven, and was the father of the present earl, whose hrother and heir is the 
 Hon. William Henry White Hed,a-es, brother-in-law of Mr. H. Herbert, M.P., 
 Muckross Abbey, Killarney, of whoTu hereafter. In Bantry, the coach stops 
 at Lannhi's Hotel, loni;' remarkable for the admirable style of its accommoda- 
 tions, its posting- establishment, and the modei'ation of its charges. Godson's, 
 on the opposite side of the spacious square, is also a very superior hostelrie in 
 every respect, and not the less so are the landlord's intelligence, courtesy, and 
 promptitude. Murphy's Hotel is likewise most comfortable, and the charges 
 as reasonable as could well be desired by the most economic tourist, who, after 
 enjoying a refreshing night's rest, should be stirring betimes, if he desires to 
 view the scenery in its fullest beauty. Bantry Bay, to be fairly appreciated, 
 must be seen before tlie sun has created that misty haze which deprives the- 
 glorious mountains of their bold and sharply cut outlines. At early da-\vn, and 
 accompanied by a guide, we ascend Knocknaveigli, and, on reaching one pe- 
 culiar s])ot, have revealed to us a scene such as will dwell on the memory for 
 ever. The islands on the bosom of tlie bay afford, by their deep verdure, an 
 exquisite contrast to the rich blue of the waters. Far across on the opposite 
 side are seen the precipitous cliffs of the other arm of the bay, their bases 
 fringed by a sparkling line of white foam. To the right, in the extreme dis- 
 tance, are the blue peaks of the Killarney mountains, overtopped by the giant 
 Mangerton; whilst nearer. Hungry Hill upheaves its pyramidical form. Soon 
 the whole horizon to the east begins to glow with the first blush of dawn, tin- 
 ging the mountain tops with roseate hues; and, gradually, from the highest 
 peak to the surface of the dancing waves, a flood of gorgeous liglit is shed. 
 We have now Bere Island, Avith its sheltered waters; ^heboid bluff of Shot 
 Head; the bay of sweet Glengarriff, with glancing sails of the fishing boats 
 flitting by — in short, almost every conceivable auxiliary to perfection in a ma- 
 rine panorama of loveliness, probably not exceeded in the world. To vary 
 the view, the tourist may obtain from the table-land behind Lord Bantry's 
 demesne some exquisite prospects. What from Knocknaveigh seems one 
 unbroken expanse of water, here assumes the appearance of a group of lakes, 
 divided by verdant islets, and by masses of foliage of most graceful outline. 
 Another desirable point is Caherdermid ; also the redoubt in the centre of 
 Whiddy Island ; while the heights above Gurteenroe present new aspects of 
 beauty. 
 
 Resuming- our new route from Cork to Bandon and Killarney, we proceed 
 to notice the second section, viz. : — 
 
 Bandox to Crookstoavn. — Upon the arrival of the train at Bandon we 
 find Fishboiirne's admirably-appointed vehicles in readiness, and in a few 
 minutes several coaches, freighted with Killarney tourists, may be seen dashing' 
 through the northern skirts of the town. The beautiful demesne of Mishells 
 is passed soon after leaving the town ; and further to the right are situated 
 the extensive mills of the enterprising Mr. Keays. About three miles distant 
 from Bandon we arrive at the properties of Messrs. Vining and Payne, origin- 
 ally English farmers of great experience, who have found it advantageous to 
 settle in this district, and have introduced an improved system of agriculture 
 with exceedingly profitable results to themselves. After admiring the excel- 
 lence of these well-farmed gTOunds, we pass through a gentle vale and avenue^
 
 CROOKSTOWN TO GOUGANE BARRA. 97 
 
 planted most luxuriantly on both sides with the native Irish furze. This truly 
 useful and prolific plant, with its rich yellow blossom, is superabundant in the 
 country, and growing principally on banks, affords much shelter to cattle, while 
 it is also generally used as fodder, after being steeped and otherwise prepared. 
 Of this plant it may be interesting to remark, that when the celebrated bota- 
 nist, Liunaius, who had travelled several countries in search of this pro- 
 duction, discovered it so abundant and luxuriant in Ii'eland, in the exuberance 
 of his joy he "fell upon his face to the earth, and thanked God that he had 
 lived to see that day." 
 
 The tourist next passes through a valley, beautifully planted with young fir 
 and larch trees, the property of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire ; and 
 ascending the hill to Templemartin Church and village, a beautiful view of 
 the ancient demesne of Montpleasant is visible to the left upon a lofty height, 
 the residence of the Baldwins. Having i-eached the summit, a splendid 
 panorama opens on the view ; in a distance of 30 miles the noble " Paps " of 
 the Kerry mountains rise in majestic grandeur ; and to the left tlie sugar-loaf 
 mount of Mushera caps the surrounding country, while an extensive valley 
 varies the landscape. Having fully admired this beautiful scene, our coaches 
 descend by a sinuous and pretty road, through a thickly-planted defile, called 
 Raheen Pass, by the side of which stands the picturesque residence of Coun- 
 sellor Herricic, surrounded by a neat plantation, and skirted with laurel trees 
 of large growth. A small yet pretty waterfall is seen near the lodge-gate. 
 Approacliing Crookstown, Castlemore Castle is seen in the distance, and the 
 beautiful demesne of Rye Court, the residence of Richard Tonson Rye, Esq. 
 Having reached the bottom of the hill, we turn to the left and drive into the 
 neat little village of Crookstown, about 9 miles from Baudon. 
 
 Crookstown to Gougane Barra. — Having changed horses here, off we 
 dash with a fresh team over Crookstown Bridge, from which a pleasant view 
 is obtained ; Belmont Castle is on the left, overgrown with ivy, and built upon 
 a commanding eminence, gracefully planted, while Rye Court and Castlemore 
 Castle are seen in the valley, on the north side of the bridge ; and under its 
 steep arches rolls the silvery Bride, famous for its abundance of trout and 
 salmon. Many years since there stood a smithy each side the bridge, which has 
 a very steep ascent either way ; and in the winter, when trade was slack, 
 these sons of Vulcan were driven to their wit's resources to obtain an increase 
 of business, which they accomplished satisfactorily by getting boys to throw 
 water on the steep approaches to tlie bridge, so that when carriers attempted 
 to pass their horses over, they could not, the road being frozen, which com- 
 pelled them to get them roughed at the smithies ; and it is currently reported 
 that for several years these two ingenious brothers of the anvil obtained their 
 livelihood in winter principally by this novel expedient. 
 
 About one mile onward we approach another valley, richly covered at either 
 side witli laurels, lilac, and fir-trees of all hues ; the fine house and grounds 
 belonging to Mr. Warren occupying the north, and the extensive demesne of 
 Castle Baldwin the south side of the vale. Having surmounted a gentle hill, 
 and crossed over a pretty little bridge, we observe the magnificent mansion, of 
 Warren's Court, the seat of Sir Augustus Warren, Bart. ; the house is re- 
 markable for the richness anl antiquity of its furniture, being almost exclu- 
 sively in the style of the middle ages ; it is also celebrated for its collection of 
 china, and otlier objects of rcr/u. At the opposite side of the road, a mile be- 
 yond Warren's Court, stands Delacour Villa, the charming residence of Charles 
 Beamish, Esq., situate on a commanding elevation, and surrounded by a plan- 
 
 H
 
 98 
 
 CROOKSTOWN TO INCIIIGEELA. 
 
 tation, embracing- a great variety of tints. This well-farmed property extends 
 for several miles, and is in a comparatively high state of cultivation ; notwith- 
 standing the country being interspersed with rocks, every available plot of 
 ground is reduced to tillage. Indeed, under the praiseworthy exertions of its 
 resident proprietor, this extensive and improving property is an object of much 
 interest to the farmer of the present day. At the north side of the house, on 
 the summit of a hill, is the burial-place of the family, a large tower being 
 built thereon to indicate the site. 
 
 Having passed through Mr. Beamish's property, the country now assumes 
 a wilder aspect ; and having reached the summit of a high hill, a fine landscape 
 is presented to the view, extending over an area of 50 miles, embracing all 
 kinds of scenery. The mountains of Kerry, Killarney, and Kenmare appear 
 in the distance, while, nearer, the Gougane Barra and Sheehee mountains rise 
 with stately grandem-. We now descend the hill, and turning to the left, 
 enter a bleak valley, covered with deeply-bedded turf for several miles. We 
 may here mention a little incident which occurred at this great turfery last 
 season. An English tourist was travelling on an outside car to Gougane : 
 beside liim sat an unmistakeable Hibernian ; and as they passed by several 
 
 ^=^ 
 
 //'x )*^4^^ 
 
 INCIIIGEELA CASTLE, ON THE ROAD TO BANTKY BY GOUGANE BARRA,
 
 INCniGEELA. 99 
 
 piles of turf-blocks, he observed how much they resembled and were stacked 
 up like cannon-balls. " To be sure they are," remarked the ready MUesian, 
 " and its only natural they should, since they are intended for the same pur- 
 pose." " The same purpose," rejoined the tovu'ist ; " why how can turf-balls 
 possibly be used like cannon-balls ? " Because," replied our Irish wag, " they 
 are intenied foi- firing ." 
 
 Leaving the turf fields now behind us, the ruins of Conadrumna Church and 
 Castle are seen on the extreme summit of the hill to the right ; and a little 
 farther on, the celebrated castle of Drumcarragh, the stronghold of O'Leary 
 the outlaw, whose unfortunate history may not be uninteresting to our 
 readers. Arthur O'Leary was descended from an ancient and respectable 
 family, who held for centuries a large extent of country in this part of the 
 county of Cork ; and being possessed of considerable personal property (the 
 existing laws not then allowing Roman Catholics to hold real estate), fell a 
 victim to the old penal enactments against his religion. He had served and 
 distinguished himself in the Hungarian service, and was related to the 
 O'Connell family, of Derrynane. His popularity soon excited the jealousy of 
 a Mr. Morris, a neighbouring land-owner, which was increased by O'Leary's 
 horse having won a race against one of Morris's, which provoked a serious 
 quarrel. Mr. Morris, however, availed himself of the legal barrier disabling a 
 Roman Catholic from keeping any horse exceeding £5 in value, and claimed 
 from O'Leary the one which had won the race, tendering £5 as its value. 
 O'Leary indignantly refused the demand, when a scuffle arose, out of which 
 he was glad to escape with his life. He was tlierefore declared an out- 
 law, and soldiers sent in pursuit of him ; he defended himself bravely, but 
 after several shots, was laid dead upon the road, and the penal laws prohibiting 
 his burial within consecrated ground, he was interred in a field, not far re- 
 moved from his castle. Mr. Morris was afterwards shot by one of the rela- 
 tives of the deceased, and the death of one man thus avenged by that of 
 anotlier, in the then lamentable mode of the country. 
 
 Leaving Drumcarragh Castle on the right, we arrive at Boyle's Bridge, 
 about 18 miles from Bandon, a most pictiu'esque spot, the bridge being over- 
 grown with ivy, with its pretty arches spanning the river Lee, which winds 
 gracefully along the valley. Adjoining is the demesne of Boyle's Grove, the 
 grounds of which are pleasantly undulating and thickly wooded ; and passing 
 an old castle on the right, we reach Toon Bridge. We now enter a country 
 gradually assuming a more wild and imposmg aspect ; and passing the neat 
 and hospitable residence of Mr. O'Leary (a descendant of the ancient family 
 already alluded to), we ascend a long hill, clothed with purple heath, yellow 
 furze, and a variety of mountain plants, and on reaching the eminence, obtain 
 a nearer and more perfect view of the surrounding mountains. Before us, to 
 the left, stands the antiquated strongliold of Castle Masters, formerly occupied 
 by the family of Masters, but now the property of Jasper Pyne, Esq. Leaving 
 the castle to the left, we descend the hill, and enter the little village of 
 
 Inchigeela, about 24 miles distant from Bandon, possessing a church, 
 parsonage, chapel, police-barrack, an inn, and several neat whitewashed 
 houses. Here we again obtain a view of the river Lee, which runs close by 
 the village. After quitting Inchigeela, a short and pretty drive brings us in 
 sight of the Lakes, about three miles in length. Here the Lee expands itself 
 into a broad sheet of water, and three continuous lakes present in their entire 
 course a diversified series of the most animated scenery, dotted with little 
 islands. The road along the side of the lakes is very beautiful, and winds 
 
 H 2
 
 100 
 
 GOUGANE BARRA. 
 
 round the northern margin of the shore, from which point the best view is 
 Gougane. 
 
 LAKES OF IXCHIGEELA. 
 
 Quitting the northern shore of the Like, we follow the course of the Lee, 
 and enter a lonely valley, encompassed with mountains, and after a few miles' 
 ride arrive at the village of 
 
 Ballixgeary, or " the Place of the Wilderness," 30 miles distant from 
 Baudon, and within 4 miles of the som-ce of the river Lee. A spacious chapel, 
 national school-house, a road-side inn, and some few houses, constitute the 
 village, from the bridge of which is seen a wild moory glen, through which 
 flows the Balliugeary stream, winding down the valley, and emptying itself 
 uoiselessly into the Lee. A rude and ancient chmx-h stands upon an emi- 
 nence, about a mile up the glen, and several antiquated buildings are observ- 
 able in the vicmity. A few miles farther on we approach Gougane, through 
 a nari'ow road, situate at the base of a steep mountain, presenting the appear- 
 ance of a craggy wilderness, and arrive at the head of Keimaneigh Pass, 
 within a short mile of the Holy Lake of 
 
 Gocgaxe Barra, situate at the bottom of a circular chain of mountains, 
 wild in the aspect of its surrounding scenery : but the tourist can form no 
 conception of tliis scene of lovely loneliness till he contemplates it within 
 its perfect amphitheatre of rugged lulls. A short curve in the pathway at 
 onee displays the whole scene to view ; and a more complete picture of wild 
 desolation or majestic mountain gTandem' it is impossible to conceive. The 
 small island, whence its holiness, is nearly midway in the lake ; and on the 
 island are a group of gracefid ash trees, and the ruins of a chapel, the her- 
 mitage of Saint Finnbar of the Silver Locks, before he journeyed to found 
 his great church at Cork. The weU here was supposed to be consecrated ; 
 and there was a great bi-annual pilgrimage of peasants, who had faith in 
 the power of the water to cure all diseases, both of man and beast. The 
 lake of Gougane covers 500 acres. Its Avaters are generally placid, and in 
 their stiU depths the giant liills around are reflected. Proceeding along a 
 causeway, we are brought to the little verdant islet, where numerous small
 
 PASS OF KEIMANEIGH. 101 
 
 fountains gush out in tiny streams sparkling in the sunlight, and, all uniting 
 in one, flow into the Lake, 
 
 " Whence AHua of songs rushes forth like an arrow ; " 
 and this is the source of the " Silver Lee," renowned for beauty even here, 
 where all is most beautiful. The cliffs of Gougane afford hundreds of echoes, 
 and form a grand mountainous enclosure of an oval shape ; its steep hills are 
 covered with heath and black rocks, and overhang, in broken masses of great 
 boldness, these sanctified waters. Arriving at the head of the valley, all exit 
 seems impossible ; dark rocks upon rocks arise, and prevent all further progress. 
 A local bard, in a poem of much merit, apostrophises Gougane Barra as a spot 
 Still, still in wliose wilds might young liberty rally, 
 And send her strong sliout over mountain and valley ! 
 The Star of the West might yet rise in its glory, 
 And the land that was darkest be brightest in story. 
 
 Should the tourist have an opportunity, we would advise him to ascend the 
 top of the mountain which overlooks the Lake of Gougane, and which is 
 accessible, although with much toil and difficulty, in the summer season. The 
 summit is a mass of black rock, in the form of a Druid's altar, from which a 
 magnificent view of Bautry Bay is obtained ; the Killarney, Glengariff, and 
 Berehaven mountains are also seen to great advantage ; while underneath, the 
 Pass of Keimaneigh, and the siu'rounding scenery of Gougane, perfect a 
 glorious landscape. Returning from this lonely scene, we re-enter the main 
 road ; and a hearty luncheon having been disposed of at the refreshment- 
 room provided there, and a change of horses effected, we start again, and soon 
 arrive at the celebrated 
 
 Pass of Keimaneigh, 34 miles from Bandon. In offering a description 
 of this remarkable work of nature, we cannot do better than extract from 
 the valuable little book by Mr. John Windele, on the " South of Ireland," 
 wherein, speaking of Keimaneigh Pass, he observes : — " Nothing in mountain 
 scenery of glen, or dell, or defile, can well equal this gloomy pass. The sepa- 
 ration of the mountain ground at either side is only just sufficient to afford 
 room for a road of moderate breadth, with a rugged channel at one side for 
 the water, which, in the winter season, rushes down from the high grounds, 
 and meeting here, hastens onward to pay the first tribute offered to the Lee. 
 A romantic or creative imagination would here find a grand and extersive 
 field for the exercise of its powers ; every turn of the road brings us to some 
 new appearance of the abrupt and shattered walls, which at either side rise 
 up darkling to a great height, and the mind is continually occupied with the 
 quick succession and change of objects so interesting, resolving and comparing 
 realities, sometimes giving form and substance to airy nothings. 
 
 " At its entrance from the Gougane side the pass is seen with best effect ; 
 there its high close cliffs are steepest, and the toppling crags assume their most 
 picturesque forms and resemblances of fantastic piles and ancient ruins. 
 These receive beauty and variety from the various mosses which encrust them, 
 and the dwarf shrubs and underwood, ivy, and creeping plants, which lend 
 their mellow hues to soften and give effect to the whole. The arbutus, a 
 plant almost indigenous to Killarney and Glengariff, into the first of which 
 places it has been plausibly conjectured it had been brought from the conti- 
 nent by the monks who settled in the islands of its lakes, is not even uncommon 
 among the rocks of Keimaneigh. We behold with wonder this, and the ash, 
 and other hardy plants and shrubs, growing at immense heights overhead ; 
 tuftmg crags, inaccessible to the human foot, where we are astonished to think
 
 102 
 
 PASS OF KEIMANEIGH. 
 
 how they got there. The London Pride grows here and on the sniTounding 
 mountahis, as well as amongst the ruins of Gougane Barra, in the most 
 astonishing profusion. On the mountains of Tore and Mangerton, near Kil- 
 larney, it is met with in great abundance ; but its plenty in the neighbourhood 
 of the Lee far exceeds all comparison. 
 
 " A number of lesser defiles, formed by many a headlong torrent or shelving 
 cascade, shoot inwards from the pass in deep and gloomy hollows as the road 
 winds along, which greatly increase the interest of the place ; and these, foim- 
 ing at the entrance high round headlands, thickly covered with a most lux- 
 uriant clothing of long flowering heather, have at a distance the appearance 
 of rich overhangmg woods. As we proceed, we find the channel of the stream, 
 which winds along with the road, blocked up in various places with vast frag- 
 ments of rocks, rent in some violent convulsion or tempest from the cUffs 
 around, or hurled downward in wild sport by the presiding genius of the 
 scene. Trophied evidences of his giant energies long choaked up the defile, 
 
 PASS OF KEIMANEIGH.
 
 GLENGARIFF. 103 
 
 and told the history of his fierce pastime during the many ages that he con- 
 tinued its unmolested lord ; but the road-maker has successfully encroached 
 upon his savage dominions, crumbled his ponderous masses, and smoothed 
 down the difficulties which he accumulated. The present diminished number 
 of these vast fragments remain, however, as a sufficient record of the rocky 
 chaos which Smith spoke of 80 years ago, and wliich long remained the 
 astonishment of successive travellers." 
 
 Arriving at the end of the pass, a beautiful view of Bantry Bay opens before 
 us ; and presently we approach tlie waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Wending our 
 way round the head of this splendid harbour by an excellent and ])icturesque 
 road, we enter the enchanting valley of Glengariff, 53 miles from Bandon. 
 
 Glengariff, or the " Rocky Glen," has been eloquently described by Mrs. 
 Hall. In her admirable work she says, — " Language fails to convey an idea 
 of the beauty of Glengariff, which merits to the full the enthusiastic praise 
 lavished upon it by every traveller. It is a deep Alpine valley, enclosed by 
 precipitous hills about three miles in length, and seldom exceeding a quarter 
 of a mile in breadth. Black and savage rocks embosom, as it were, a scene 
 of surpassing comeliness, endowed by nature with the richest gifts of wood 
 and water ; for the trees are graceful in form, luxuriant in foliage, and varied 
 in character, and the rippling stream, the strong river, and the foaming 
 cataract are supplied from a thousand rills collected in the mountains. Be- 
 yond all is tlie magnificent bay, with its numerous islands, by one of which 
 it is so guarded and sheltered as to present the aspect of a serene lake. 
 Wandering through the glen, the song of birds is either hushed or unheard ; 
 and but for the ripple and roar of waters, there is no sound to disturb a soli- 
 tude perfect and profound." It is of tliis ravishing spot that the cynic, Mr. 
 Michael Angelo Titmarsh, throwing aside for once his captiousness, exclaims — 
 " Were such a bay lying upon English shores, it would be a world's wonder ; 
 perhaps if it were on the Mediterranean, or the Baltic English travellers would 
 flock to it in hundreds. Why not come and see it in Ireland? It is less than 
 a day's journey from London, and lies in a country far more strange to most 
 travellers than France or Germany can be. The best view of this exquisite 
 scene — the charm of a soft climate enhancing every other — is obtained from 
 the height of the hilly road leading to Killarney, and at the foot of which is a 
 pretty cottage, preferred as a residence for many years by Lord Bantry to the 
 stately mansion at Bantry. The summit of this hill, which is in fact within a 
 private demesne, may be attained if the tourist will make up his mind for a 
 fatiguing walk; but the result will amply reward him." 
 
 The principal antiquity in the immediate neighbourhood is an old bridge, 
 now in picturesque ruin, which in ancient times was on the high road to Bere- 
 haven, and rendered, with all liis customary accm'acy, by Mr. Mahony ; and 
 the tradition is, that it was built, upon an hour's notice, by the order of Crom- 
 well, who, when passing through the glen to visit the O'SuUivans, cursed the 
 people because of the trouble he had in getting across the narrow but rushing 
 river. There is another bridge close by, of less antiquity, but entitled to 
 notice. It crosses a diminutive brook in the little demesne witliiu Lord 
 Bantry's gates ; and is said to be constructed with the planks of the French 
 war-ships wrecked in the bay in 1797. 
 
 Within a late period, arrangements of most perfect character have been 
 effected by Roche for the comfortable, nay, luxurious accommodation of visitors 
 to this enchanting region. The said Roche, by the by, in November, be- 
 came the pm'chaser of the Glengariff hotel, aud the large tract of land ad-
 
 GLENGARIFF. 
 
 105 
 
 joining it, at the sale of the Bantry property in the Incumbered Estates 
 Court, which realised very large sums, sufficient to pay off all the liabilities 
 on the property, and leave a considerable surplus. On the sale of this and 
 other estates in Ireland, many of the tenants have become holders in fee. 
 Not long since there existed at Glengariff but a single hotel, and even 
 that was only an indifferent one. But now that her gracious Majesty's 
 visit has made an Irish tour the fashion, visitors will find in the very 
 centre of the fairy solitudes of this " rugged glen " (for such is the literal 
 translation of " Glengarift""), not an ill-furnished and uninviting wayside 
 posada, but a splendid caravansary on the most comprehensive and elaborated 
 metropolitan scale, charges excepted ; for, in this respect, Roche is fortu- 
 nately not ambitious of rivalling the Babylonian Bonifaces ; and the same may 
 with truth be said of his diligent and well-catering neighbour, the proprietor 
 
 CROMWELL S BHIDGK, GLENGARIFF. 
 
 of Eccles' most admirable Hotel. By boat Glengariff is seen to the fuUest 
 advantage. Having taken a general view of the delightful amphitheatre 
 surrounding Roche's Hotel, as shown in the sketch, we proceed to Cromwell's 
 Bridge, passing Garnish and Brandy Islands, and enter the limpid waters of 
 the Glengariff river. After a deli,i;litful row, we land on the grounds of 
 White's Castle, the seat of Mrs. White, which adjoins the hotel, whither we 
 return for the night. Up betimes in the morning-, a bathe will be found a 
 most desirable preparative for an ascent, staff in hand, of Cobb Dhuv, or the 
 Black Hill, immediately behind the hotel ; and when seated on one of its slopes, 
 looking towards the sea, the tourist will, without doubt, be disposed to confess 
 to himself, and all within hearing at the time, or whom he can make hear 
 hereafter, that Glengariff has not been overpraised. Two days may be spent 
 delightfully ; first take a boat to the caves and Hungry Hill waterfall, having 
 a car to meet you, and return by the lovely harbour of Adrigole; secoud, as-
 
 106 
 
 GLENGARIFF. 
 
 cend Cobb Dhuv, visit Lord Baiitr/s demesne, Ea^yle's Nest Glen, and Sugar- 
 loaf mountain, one of the Caha range. GlengariflF terminates tlie first of the 
 two days' journey from Cork to Killarney 
 
 Hail, charming scene ! Glengariff 's bay, 
 Yon mountains, streams, and dells, 
 
 The Atlantic waters' foaming spray, 
 Creation's -n-onder tells. 
 
 Hail, Bantr^-'s noble harbour deep ! 
 
 Where Britain's fleet may ride, 
 And giant ships in safety's" keep. 
 
 May in or outward glide. 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 Thy glorious waters, green and gemmed, 
 "With beauteous islands crowned, 
 
 While the enchanting scene is hemmed 
 "With purple hills around. 
 
 At morning's dawn or evening shade. 
 
 Thy glorj-^s still the same ; 
 And ever will be so arrayed, 
 
 With English tourists' fame.
 
 OLENGAUIFF TO KENMARE. 
 
 107 
 
 Glengartff to Kenmare. — Resuming our seat in Fislibounie's well-horsed 
 coach, we start next morning from Roche's Hotel for Kenmare and Killarney. 
 The scenery along this route is marked alternately with rugged grandeur and 
 pleasing variety. liord Bantry's seat is on our left, and heldnd us the mighty 
 Atlantic in the distance, the bays of Bantry and Glengariff, and the chain of 
 surrounding mountains. Through the curious tunnel which divides Cork and 
 KeiTy, and the Gothic arches through which the road passes, a scene of soli- 
 tude and gloomy splendour breaks upon the eye, for the first full view of the 
 Kerry mountains is obtained. The INIacgillicuddy Reeks, looming in wild gro- 
 tesqueness, like the billows of some stormy ocean petrified in their fury, stretch 
 before us, shutting out the horizon as they peer cloudward. We now catch a 
 glimpse of the noble Kenmare River, bearing, alas! no burden but the crazy 
 fisliing-boat. Turning by the suspension bridge over the river, a few minutes 
 bring us to the pretty town of Kenmare, where, should the tourist wish to re- 
 main a day, he will find in M'Carthy, proprietor of the Lansdowne Arms, a 
 thoroughly first-class hotel, one Avho will direct him to spots which, if neglected, 
 he may after have occasion to regret leaving unvisited. The lakes of Clonee, 
 Glenn, luchiquiu, and Glenmoe are in the neighbourhood; and if anything of 
 a geologist, or interested in mining speculations, the visitor should not leave 
 the place too hastily. 
 
 TUNNEL IN THE KOAD BETWEEN CiLENGAlSlFF ^VND KENMARE. DKAWN B1' MAHONT.
 
 108 KENMARE. 
 
 Perhaps it may not be deemed out of place here to quote a noble writer's 
 description of the district lying between Glengariff and Kenmare. Lord 
 John Manners says : — " The twenty miles between Kenmare and Glengariff 
 forms the grandest road, barring the Alpine passes, that I know : an ascent 
 of four English miles, winding up through dark brown hills, with no sign of 
 human habitation about them, brings you to a tunnel six hundred feet long ; 
 on emerging from which the head of Glengariff opens upon you, with two blue 
 little lakes perched among the mountains at that great altitude staring you 
 in the face ; thence, at every step you descend, the scenery becomes more and 
 more beautiful, every turn of the road revealing some hitherto unseen charm, 
 with Bantry Bay and the Atlantic ever bounding the view. I spent three 
 hours in the glen, roaming about at will. The debateable land lying between 
 the bay and the wooded glen is perhaps even more striking than the glen it- 
 self; for here avenues of rock, with a tesselated pavement of bog myrtle, long 
 grass, maidens' hair, heather, gorse, reeds, &c. ; a winding river below, and 
 glimpses of the blue bay beyond, impressed one with an idea of fairy-land, 
 while the more inland recesses "of the glen are pictures in Scott's description 
 of the Trosachs. Bantry Bay fully merits all that has been said in its praise, 
 and the town all that has been uttered in its commendation. A glorious 
 sunset was lighting up that noble arm of the sea, and its swelling mountams, 
 as I crossed its broad surface to the desolate collection of houses, which, from 
 its situation and natural advantages, ought to rival its opposite neighbour, 
 Brest, or Plymouth." 
 
 But to return to Kenmare : it is a neat little town, and the property of the 
 Marquis of Lansdowne. It is also a port, and does a good deal of business, 
 not the least considerable of its trade being the forwarding to the hotels at 
 the lakes the salmon caught in the sound. The bay — as often called the river 
 — is the deepest in Ireland, thirty miles in length, and the breadth at one 
 point is three miles. Its indented shores are crowded with charming views, 
 the upper portion, that is near the town, and that usually only seen by tourists, 
 being the least interesting. Mr. Frazer truly says : — " As Dingle Bay is the 
 grandest, so this may be considered the most beautiful of Irish Bays." Lans- 
 downe Lodge, the residence of the Marquis, is close to the town ; and it is 
 gratifying to notice the much im])roved and more comfortable appearance of 
 the proprietary, under the liberal auspices of the noble lord, and the con- 
 siderate attention of his local agent. 
 
 The horses to, and off again, we drive between Alpine mountains, and enter 
 Windy Gap. Below, on the left, is an amphitheatre of nature's perfect mar- 
 king. Presently we come to a narrow defile, where the rock rises perpendi- 
 cularly, Com a iOhuv, the Black "Valley, being a superbly sombre sentinel of 
 the weird region within whose magic circle we presently find ourselves, and 
 perhaps in itself equal to anything that awaits us, contemplate it which side 
 we may. Before us is the renowned ravine known as the Gap of Dunloe; on 
 the left, the mountain running towards Valentia and Derrynane ; on the right, 
 the L^pper Lake of Killarney, mountain-locked, reposing in tranquil beauty, 
 rendered still more beautiful by the gloom of the surrounding mountains. 
 From this point of great elevation, passing the police-barrack, is obtained the 
 best view of Killarney, embracing the three lakes, Tore, Mangerton and all its 
 surrounding mountains, and the famous Gap of Dunloe ; in fact it forms the 
 most perfect and beautiful panorama imaginable. Driving round the shores 
 of the upper and middle lakes, the right hand side of the road, we pass Lake 
 Louskenag-h, and enter the world-famous Killarney.
 
 KILLARNEY. 
 
 AppnoACii TO THE Town. — The Hotels. — Driving now along the road on 
 the right of the Lakes, passing over Gallway's Bridge, along Hyde's Cottage, 
 and Derrynumabeg Cascade, through the Tunnel, on by the square tower 
 known as the Game-keeper's Lodge, leaving the Eagle's Nest Mountain, on 
 our left the Glena Mountain, passing under the base of Tore Mountain, and 
 the shores of the INIiddle Lake, Tore Lodge and Cascade, Muckross demesne 
 and Abbey, we iinally advance up to the Muckross Hotel, M'here the tourist 
 may sojourn, or, if he prefer it, drive on, gratuitously, by car, to the Royal 
 Victoria Hotel, the Lake Hotel, or to the splendid Railway Hotel, at the ter- 
 minus of the Killarney railway, recently erected at great expense by the 
 Company. The Muckross is situate in the midst of Killarney's ilUmftable 
 and inimitable beauties, dii-ectly opposite the demesne and abbey whence 
 it takes its name, and to which visitors at the hotel enjoy free access ; as 
 also to land or embark on the lakes from INIr. Herbert's grounds. The 
 hotel is conducted by Mr. W. Roche, one of the most enterprising and 
 liberal-handed men of his class in the United Kingdom, and who does not 
 concentrate all his anxiety merely on his own locaUty, but extends it to 
 everything calculated to render Ireland attractive to English Tourists, and 
 to facilitate their means of getting thither. He is also the proprietor of the 
 noble new hotel at GlengaritF, and all Ave said of that is appHeable in the same 
 degree to this. Most excellent, too, is the Royal Victoria Hotel (Mr. T. 
 Finn, proprietor) beautifully situated on the Lower Lake, and commanding- 
 glorious views. There is likewise the Lake Hotel, on the south shore of the 
 Lake, one mile from the town, a fine establishment, possessing many desirable 
 advantages : Mr. T. Cotter, proprietor. The Tore Vie^v Hotel is also well 
 regulated and comfortable, and admirably adapted as a residence for families 
 wishing to remain in Killarney for a lengthened period, Mr. Hurley being a 
 first-rate caterer, not only for the culinary comforts, but the recreation and 
 entertainment of his guests in every possible way. 
 
 In the town of Killarney there is a most comfortable hotel, long known to 
 travellers as the Kenmare Arms, belonging to Mr. Finn, who is also pro- 
 prietor of the no less patronised Victoria ; Kelliher's Royal Hibernian, Ma- 
 hony's, and some other minoi s, are all imexceptionably good. Private lodging- 
 houses are numerous, and those residing in such quarters as Mr. M'Carthy's 
 will be sure to meet every convenience and attention. We wish to speak in 
 very general and unbiassed but truthful terms of all such establishments ; 
 and therefore beg to be excused if we eschew upholstery and cookery-book 
 rhapsodies, d la George Robins, and leave the advertisements of these habitats 
 to speak for themselves, which they do in their proper place ; several of them, 
 moreover, conveying an amount of general information that really supersedes 
 the necessity of our going over the same ground again. 
 
 The Lakes. — A Word about Guides. — Those who visit Killarney go to 
 stay at least two days ; and their best " guide," when a survey instead of a 
 glimpse is contemplated, is not a book, but one of the men who hire them-
 
 110 KILLARNET. 
 
 selves for tlie day to describe the beautiful neighbourhood. Tliese constitute 
 a numerous class, some clever, ready, and intelligent, and some possessed of 
 qualities which, through the books of literary tourists, have rendered them 
 famous. There are two en ehef, whose services are eagerly desired — viz., the 
 Spillanes — father and son. The elder is a bugler (the instrument being in- 
 dispensable in awakening echoes) of the highest order, worthy to rank beside 
 Koenig as an executant, and penetrated with that genuine sympathy for the 
 poetry of his art which renders him inestimable to those who would give 
 themselves up for the moment to the spirit of romance evoked by so captiva- 
 ting a sphere. The old man's son, rejoicing in the bardic attribute of the in- 
 heritance of song, possesses not only all the paternal dexterity of instrumen- 
 tation, and the feeling essential to its adequate effect, but has won repute as an 
 exquisite singer of the melodies of his country — this being an accomplishment 
 which naturally renders him earnestly sought after, and has elicited the ad- 
 mu-ation of numbers of those upon whose fiat in the dilettante world the fate 
 of many a prima donna and pri mo tenore depends. 
 
 Amongst the indigenous celebrities in humble life, in which every Irish 
 locality famed for its scenery or antiquities abounds, there are some extraor- 
 dinary ones peculiar to Killarney. First, the pipers ; and cliief is bUnd old 
 Gandsey, a true bagpipe musician and genuine wit, Avho is accompanied and 
 guided by his son, also a proficient in the tuneful art — a very Orpheus, to judge 
 of liis potentiality in drawing all sorts of sticks, stocks, and blocks on two 
 legs after him. Next, the Mountain Dew Girls meet the tourist at every turn, 
 insisting upon his disposing of his small change in return for their whiskey and 
 goats' milk. Their occupation compels what is regarded as forwardness, but, 
 as a class, it is well known they are of excellent character ; and this sugges- 
 tion may induce kindly treatment, it being impossible to avoid or escape theii* 
 importunities. The arbutus wood ornament sellers are generally young girls, 
 who travel about the lakes and hotels, carrying baskets full of nick-nackeries, 
 manufactured out of the fine arbutus wood, or the Irish bog-oak, whose capa- 
 city for the formation of exquisite articles of vertu was made abundantly 
 apparent at the Great Exhibition, many of the objects in the Irish furniture 
 bog-oak department rivalling the choicest specimens of Swiss and German 
 handicraft, and commanding proportionate popularity and prices, as they un- 
 doubtedly deserved to do, and as they did in a stiU higher degree at the 
 Dublin Exhibition last year. The Killarney specimens being regarded in the 
 light of souvenirs of the lakes, a large trade is thus carried on. jNIiss Marti- 
 neau has a most interesting description of the uses to which the Kerry pea- 
 santry and farmers turn this bog-oak for domestic and dairy purposes, and 
 suggestive of other uses to which it might be turned on a scale of consider- 
 able commercial importance ; and to that chapter in particular of her " Letters 
 from Ireland," we would direct the attention of speculators in what would be 
 a new and attractive commodity for the English market. 
 
 Lastly, there are the accomplished, shameless, irrepressible, professional 
 beggars — all impostors. The visitor bestowing alms on any of these injures 
 the cause of true charity. His benevolence will be much better bestowed by 
 entrusting the sum, however trifling, to any clergyman of the neighbourhood, 
 who will tliankfuUy receive it on behalf of the truly-suffering poor. The an- 
 noyance from these importunities has been considerably mitigated, owing to 
 Mr. H. Herbert, M.P., and others, who have abated this one great drawback 
 to these otherwise delightful scenes. The tourist •will see, also, much of car- 
 men and boatmen. It is part of their trade to be civil, and they are easily
 
 KILLARN'KY. Ill 
 
 made amusing;. Let it, however, be understood, that though there are several 
 accessories to the expenses of an hotel, extortion is the exception, not the rule, 
 at Killarney. Nowhere is there more system, and at no other spot in the 
 world dependent upon the influx of visitors is there, therefore, so much 
 economy. The prices of cars, boats, and guides, are fixed; and so-called 
 liberality beyond these prices is generally most mischievous. Our tabular 
 statement of the tariff ynll sufficiently justify what we have said on the score 
 of reasonableness ; but in order to complete our enumeration given in this 
 page, we must add that the Muckross Arms, at Cloghreen, about two miles 
 from Killarney, is most conveniently situated ; although not presenting a view 
 of the lakes, it is convenient from its proximity to Muckross Abbey and do- 
 main, Mangerton, &c. The charges are : — breakfast. Is. 6d. ; bed. Is. 6d. : 
 and dinner, 2s. 6d. At the Victoria and " Lake," a little higher, the tourist, 
 pressed for leisure, should divide his patronage between these inns ; as by so 
 doing, much time may be saved in visiting points of interest. The Tore 
 View Hotel, at a short distance from Killarney, is also well worthy of patron- 
 age, situated as it is in the centre of the Lakes' most beautiful scenery, as, 
 vfith the aid of Mr. Mahony, we shall see when we come to it a little further on. 
 
 General Directions. — Arrived at Killarney, the map of the lakes should 
 be thoroughly comprehended ; and if the tourist has come by the Kenmare 
 road, thus having seen the position of the lakes, relatively to eacli other and 
 to the several great mountains around them, he will have acquired a suf- 
 ficiently general conception to connect the scattered references and narratives 
 of the guides. Nearly every one of these personages, and the same may bo 
 said of books, has a route of his own. As our previously published route gave 
 much satisfaction, we now repeat it, with considerable emendations. Two 
 days, at the very least, are necessary to see the Lakes, as a mere affair oi' 
 physical labour ; three ought to be allowed, if an unsatisfactory and wearying 
 scramble is to be avoided. A week woidd complete a delightfully easy sauntei- 
 through the wonderful scenery — a week which would result in a new stock of 
 health, and pleasant recollections for a lifetime. During the stay, long or 
 short, there will be a continuous sense of enjoyment derived from the delicious 
 mildness of the climate ; for, though showers, as at all lakes, are frequent 
 enough, they are easily foreseen, and are never of any very long duration. 
 Besides, it should be observed, that some of the most novel, rare, and gorgeous 
 effects are witnessed during the prevalence of showers, or in their intervals, — 
 the floating mists shrouding the mountains half-way up, all beneath being en- 
 veloped in the gray mantle of floating vapour, whilst far above, the summit 
 (of Mangerton, for instance) glows in refulgent gold, reflecting the sunlight 
 in a thousand hues. 
 
 Programme of Trips. — Wlien unavoidably restricted to a single day, the 
 best plan is to engage a pony and ride through the Gap of Dunloe, and order 
 a boat to be in readiness at Lord Brandon's cottage on the Upper Lake, and 
 go from thence to the Middle and Lower Lakes. Indeed, under any circum- 
 stances, we would recommend this route (the reverse of the one generally ad- 
 vised, which starts from Killarney), as it gives a good bird's-eye view of the 
 general disposition of the lakes and mountains, and thus affords an opportunity 
 of devoting one's time afterwards to points which may be considered of most 
 interest ; besides, it conveys a most fiivourable notion of the district ; and 
 another argument is, that first impressions are of great consequence. But 
 undoubtedly a week ought, if possible, to be devoted to this trip, as, from 
 Killarney beiug siuTounded by such high mountains, the weather, for any
 
 112 GAP OF DUNLOE. 
 
 length of time, cannot be depended upon. If fiivourable, for of course that 
 is all-important, the following is perhaps the best route : — First Day. Gap 
 of Dunloe, Upper Lake, Ronayne's Islands, Long Range, Middle Lake. 
 Second Day. Lower Lake, Innisfallen Island, Rabbit Island, O'SuUivan's 
 Cascade, Glena Bay, and, should time permit, the ruins of Aghadoe, which 
 afford some good views of the Lower Lake. Third Day. Muckross Abbey, 
 Muckross domain, Brickeen, Dinis Island, and back, by Tore Cottage, to 
 Cloghreen. Fourth Day. Ascent of Carran Tual, Mangerton, or Tore. 
 Fifth Day. Ride along for about ten miles the mail-coach road to Kenmare, 
 visiting Derrycunnihy and Tore Cascade. 
 
 From Killarney to the entrance of the Gap of Dunloe are several points of 
 interest, — the ruins of Aghadoe, Dunloe Castle, &c. ; but as the day Avill be 
 fully occupied in visiting the Gap and the scenery of the Upper and Middle 
 Lakes, the others ought to be left for an uncertain day, as, from their 2)roxi- 
 mity to the town, they can at any time be visited. 
 
 Gap of Dwnloe. — The appearance of the entrance to the all-famous and 
 world-renowned Gap gives one a fair estimate of the remainder of the ride. 
 The road through the Gap, for a portion of the way, is accessible for cars, and 
 for the remainder a pony can be employed, many of its bends displaying the 
 wild romantic scenery of the Gap to the utmost advantag-e. It appears 
 literally as if the vasLjange of mountains, of which this most singular ravine 
 is composed, were clOT) in twain by a mighty sword ; one is not surprised at 
 its appearance having given rise to such a tradition. The local histories in 
 connexion with this wild pass are fraught with romantic interest, and the 
 historians are, of course, proportionately enthusiastic and rapturous ; but 
 commend us to Windele beyond them all for truthfulness, and — strange to say 
 that it should be a recommendation on such a topic — simplicity of description. 
 There are several views that quite come up to one's conception of sublimity : 
 it is altogether a most singular scene, and one whicli completely baffles verbal 
 portrayal. The huge masses of rock that have rolled down the sides convey 
 a very good idea of the height of the mountains on either side. The traveller 
 is so completely hedged in that he has nothing else left to assist the judgment, 
 unless, indeed, the numerous goats which are scattered about on the brink of 
 the precipice ; these little animals frequently get into clefts of the rock, from 
 which they are unable to extricate themselves, and consequently perish fi'om 
 hunger. One is not surprised, on seeing the immense number that browse on 
 the sides of the mountains, at the quantity of their milk, offered under the 
 name of " mountain dew," in which case it is " qualified craftily" with pottheen ; 
 and however disinclined we may be for this inspiring beverage on the outset 
 of the journey, after riding through this Pass for a few miles we become not 
 insensible to its merits. There are in the Gap several very fine echoes, wliich 
 the guide will not fail to awaken. On arriving at its termination, and reach- 
 ing the summit of the road, the Black Valley, or Com a Dhuv Glen, already 
 spoken of, breaks suddenly, and most opportunely, on the view : it is quite ex- 
 hilarating, after a ride through such grand though gloomy scenery, to come 
 upon so unexpected a treat as on this side is presented by the Black Valley 
 and the Upper Lake : and it is this extraordinary variety and contrast with 
 which all Killarney abounds that afford such intense gratification. Were the 
 Gap perfectly devoid of interest, it would well repay us to ascend it, in order 
 to obtain the magnificent views Avhich this elevation offers. In the whole 
 range of Killarney scenery, we question if there is any finer than the prospects 
 presented along this Avinding road, between the termination of the Gap and
 
 I
 
 THE UPPER LAKE AND LONG RANGE. 113 
 
 Lord Brandon's Cottage. At the latter point, persons usually embark to scan 
 the scenery of the Lakes. This route possesses the advantage of having the 
 stream in our favour, the fall being from the Upper to the Middle and Lower 
 Lakes ; and as there is a considerable current in passing through the Old 
 Weir Bridge, which causes some difficulty and delay in getting the boat 
 through against the current, the tourist is saved this inconvenience by such 
 aiTangement, and is nut required to leave the boat, except in the event of very 
 heavy floods. 
 
 The Uppbr Lake, though inferior in size to either the Middle or Lower, 
 many persons prefer in point of scenery. The Upper, which drains a very 
 large district, is princii)ally supplied by the Galway River, forming, near its 
 entrance to the lake, the celebrated Cascade of Derrycunnihy. The stream, 
 flowing through the valley of Com a Dhuv, likewise supplies a vast volume of 
 water, which passes through the Long Range into the Middle and Lower Lakes, 
 where it is further augmented by numerous mountain streams, and also by the 
 rivers Flesk and Dennagh. The outlet of these lakes is the river Laune, 
 which empties itself into the sea at Dingle Bay. The Upper Lake is re- 
 markable for the number and beauty of its islands : that to which the most 
 interest attaches is Ronayne's Island, being particularly striking. 
 
 Long Range. — Having coasted round the numerous bays of the lake, we 
 proceed to the Long Range, whose entrance is guarded by a singular promon- 
 tory, Colman's Eye. The Range is a circuitous channel connecting the 
 Upper and Middle Lakes, and presenting some very beautiful scenery ; but 
 perhaps the point of most interest connected with it is the almost perpendicular 
 cliff in which is situated the Eagle's Nest, and also remarkable for its extra- 
 ordinary echoes, of which Weld admirably says : " Enchantment here appears 
 to have resumed her reign, and those who listen are lost in amazement and 
 delight. To enjoy the echoes to the utmost, musicians should be placed on 
 the banks about fifty yards below the face of the cliff, while the auditors, ex- 
 cluded from their view, seat themselves at the opposite bank, above the cliflf, 
 behind a small rocky projection. The primary notes are quite lost ; while 
 those reverberated meet the ear increased in strength, brilliancy, and sweet- 
 ness ; sometimes multitudes of musicians seem playing upon instruiirents formed 
 for more than mortal use, concealed in the caverns, or behind the trees, in 
 different parts of the cliff; when a light breeze favours the delusion, it seems 
 as if they were hovering in the air ; at intervals, the treble of flutes and 
 clarionets, ' In sweet vibrations thrilling o'er the skies,' are alone heard ; and 
 then, again, after a short suspension, 
 
 ' The clanging horns swell their sweet winding notes, 
 And load the trembling air with various melody.' 
 Wliilst every auditor still remains in breathless admiration, it is usual to dis- 
 charge a cannon from the promontory o'^posite the clift', which never fails to 
 startle and to stun the ear, ill-prepared, as it must be, for the shock, after 
 dwelling upon the sweet melody which has preceded it. The report produces 
 a discordant crash, as if the whole pile of rocks were rent asunder, and the 
 succeeding echoes resemble a tremendous peal of thunder. Twelve reverbera- 
 tions, and sometimes more, may be distinctly counted ; and, what appears ex- 
 traordinary, after the sound has been totally lost, it occasionally revives, 
 becomes louder and louder for a few seconds, and then again dies away." 
 There are in the valley several profound lakes whose dark waters, still and 
 deep, have the effect necessarily of euhancuig the wild and romantic impression 
 produced by the scenery. 
 
 I
 
 114 OLD WEIR BRIDGE, MIDDLE AND LOWER LAKES. 
 
 Eagle's Nest. — " The jipproach," says Arthur Young, "is wonderfully fine : 
 the river leads directly to its foot, and does not give tlie turn till immediately 
 under, by which means the view is much more grand than it could otherwise 
 be. It is nearly perpendicular, and rises in such full majesty, with so bold an 
 outline, and such projecting masses in its centre, that the magnificence of the 
 object is complete. The immense height of the mountains of Killarney may 
 be estimated by this rock from any distant place that commands it ; it appears 
 the lowest crag of a vast chain, and of no account, but on a closer approach, 
 it is found to command a very different aspect." A thousand authorities have 
 confirmed this report. The guide will show the best station for the musician. 
 so essential to the echoes, also the point where he will be heard to the greatest 
 advantage. About a niUe from the Eagle's Nest brings us to 
 
 Old Weir Bridge, composed of two arches, confining the channel so as to 
 render the passage after heavy rains of some danger ; and it is usual for the 
 passengers to land. The boatmen having considerable experience, persons 
 need not be under apprehension, except in times of flood. Indeed, unless ac- 
 quainted with the channel, or previously informed, we are carried through 
 so suddenly as to have little time for thought. 
 
 The Meeting of the Waters is a short distance from this bridge. Here 
 is a divided channel, one leading to Glena Bay and the Lower, and the other 
 to the Middle Lake. It is a sequestered spot of extraordinary beauty, and 
 Scott, in company with Miss Edgeworth, in 1826, was particularly struck with it. 
 
 Middle Lake. — As an opportunity will be aflbrded of examining Dinas 
 Island, of which it is impossible to speak in too high terms, when visiting 
 Muckross demesne, it will not be advisable to land here, but proceed to ex- 
 amine the Middle Lake, also known as Tore and Muckross, quite different in 
 its scenery from the other two, but possessing considerable attractions, as will 
 be inferred from Thackeray's description, viz. : — " What is to be said about 
 Tore Lake ? When there, we agreed that it was more beautiful than the 
 large lake, of which it is not one-fourth the size ; then, when we came back, 
 we said, ' No, the large lake is the most beautiful ; ' and so at every point we 
 stopped at Ave determined that that particular spot was the prettiest in the 
 whole lake. The fact is, and I don't care to own it, they are too handsome. 
 As for a man coming from his desk in London or Dublin, and seeing ' the 
 whole Lakes in a day,' lie is an ass for his pains : a child doing sums in ad- 
 dition might as well read the whole multiplication table, and fancy he had it 
 by heart. We should look at these wonderful things leisurely and thought- 
 fully ; and, even then, blessed is he who understands them." 
 
 In the peninsula of Muckross, forming one of the boundaries of this lake, a 
 valuable copper mine was at one time worked. It also produces marbles of a 
 great variety of colours. Mr. Herbert, M.P., proprietor of Muckross, as also of 
 a great portion of the adjoining property, has built a cottage near the borders 
 of the lake, from which excellent views are obtained. This gentleman, who 
 contributes his utmost to the enjoyment of the public frequenting his charm- 
 ing retreat, by rendering its multitudinous beauties accessible, and whose 
 name the stranger will find of jjerpetual recurrence in the mouths of the guides 
 and natives, is head of the ancient family whose name he bears, being a lineal 
 descendant from Sir W. Herbert, knighted by Henry V. for his valour in the 
 French wars, and from whom also descend the Herberts, Earls of Powis. Mr. 
 Herbert, educated at Trinity College, Cambridge, is married to the daughter 
 of J. Balfour, of Whittingham, Berwickshire, and is a magistrate and Deputy- 
 lieutenant of Kerry, which county he has represented on moderate Couserva-
 
 LOWER LAKE AND ROSS CASTLE. 115 
 
 tive ])rinciples since 1847 ; but the material good of his country is with him 
 paramount to all mere party considerations, and no man in Ireland labom's 
 more zealously, and few more successfully, to promote it. 
 
 The Lower Lake possesses so many points of interest that a full day ought 
 to be devoted to it. The principal island is the Ross, 158 acres, far the largest 
 in the lakes. Its fine old castle, the last stronghold in Munster that surren- 
 dered to the parliamentary army, was built about the 14th century by one of 
 the O'Donoghues, whose successors, for nearly three centuries afterwards, re- 
 sided here, respecting whom, and whose family of mystic heroes, the guides 
 will only be too happy to give a good deal of legendary information, should 
 tliey I'cceive the slightest encouragement. Of the fine views from Ross 
 Castle, that up the wild pass between Glena and Tore is particularly worthy 
 of notice. There are also some splendid echoes, which strangers must not 
 fail to call into action. The length of the Lower Lake is 9 miles, breadth 4. J 
 miles. 
 
 Ross Castle was surrendered by Lord Muskerry, in 1652, to the parlia- 
 mentary army under General Ludlow. Only a small portion now remains : 
 the modern additions do not improve its appearance, which is to be regretted, 
 as it is one of the most conspicuous objects in the Lower Lake. Ross Island, 
 more properly a peninsula, being only separated by a stream from the main 
 shore, forms portion of Lord Kemnare's beautiful demesne ; it is admirably 
 kept, thanks to the Countess of Kenraare, who takes much interest in it. 
 Under her supervision it is that the walks are laid out to great advantage, 
 and, fortunately, the alterations are not of too artificial a character. At one 
 place may be seen the debris of some steam-engines, employed about 40 years 
 since to pump water from a valuable copper-mine, finally obliged to be aban- 
 doned in consequence of the mine running under the bed of the lake, and the 
 water breaking in. The extremely rich ore sold for a high price at Swansea, 
 some of it producing £40 per ton, and the total £80,000. On the re-opening 
 of these mines, several rude implements composed of hard stone were dis- 
 covered in the shafts, proving that they had been worked at a very early 
 period. 
 
 IXMSFALLEN. — A sliort distance from Ross, about midway in the lake, lies 
 the Island of Innisfallen, than which no spot has engrossed more attention, 
 either of poet, painter, or tourist ; and it is only necessary to mention its 
 name to call to mind one of the most charming of the INIelodies. Arthur 
 Young also declares " it is the most beautiful in the king's dominions, and 
 perhaps in Europe." And one and all who have written on the subject are 
 unanimous in their admiration, each vicing with the other in laudations. 
 Like its neighbour, Ross Island, it possesses considerable historical mterest. 
 It was selected by the monks, more than twelve centuries ago, for an abbey, 
 portion of the ruins still existing. They showed their accustomed taste in 
 selecting so charming a spot. Xo part of Killaruey grows timber so lux- 
 uriantly as this favoured islet, the arbutus being particularly fine. It ap- 
 pears to thrive better in Killarney than any other part of Great Britain, 
 probably owing to the mildness and humidity of the climate. It excites one's 
 surprise to see this tree growing out of clefts in the rock without apparent 
 soil. One of the peculiarities of the arbutus is, that the ripe and grei n fruit, 
 as also the pretty small white clusters of fiowers it produces, may be seen to- 
 gether on the same tree : the fruit is a scarlet berry, about the size of a 
 strawberry, from which it has derived its name. It is remarkable from being in 
 its highest bloom, when others display theii- nakedness at the fall of the leaf. 
 
 I 2
 
 118 
 
 SrLLIVAX S CASCADE AND MUCKROSS ABBEY. 
 
 O'StJLLivAx's Cascade is on the shore, a short distance from Rahbit Island, 
 on the side of Tooniies Mountain — so called after the ancient lord of the 
 country — and consists of three distinct and successive falls, each receding a 
 few feet behind the other. "When viewed from a rock in the centre of the 
 stream, being all seen in the same line, they appear as one. During the 
 height of summer, it is scarcely possible to conceive a more delightful retreat 
 than this spot affords from the scorching rays which dart upon the bare rocks 
 of the mountain. 
 
 TOOJIIES MOUNTAIN, LAKES OF KILLAR>'ET. 
 
 Bat of Glena. — Passing near several islands, we proceed to the Bay of 
 Glena, and a most truly glorious scene. On the banks Lady Kenmare has 
 built a sweet little cottage oruee; and, not far distant, one where strangers 
 have an opportunity of testing the excellence of the Killarney salmon, whose 
 flavour is said to be improved by being roasted with skewers of arbutus, the 
 advantages of which process are rather imaginary. 
 
 MccKRO-ss Abbey. — The ruins of Muckross. Abbey, in Mr. Herbert's beau- 
 tiful domain, a few minutes' walk from Roche's Hotel, form one of the sights 
 par excellence. "No one," says Inglis, " must visit Killarney without seeing 
 Muckross Abbey, a very beautiful and perfect remain, containing within it the 
 most gigantic yew-tree I have ever seen; its arms actually support the 
 crumbling wall, and form a canopy above the open cloisters, the majestic 
 trunk 13 feet in circumference." The whole structure is in good jireservation, 
 in a oTeat measure attributable to !Mr. Herbert, who keeps it as perfect as 
 possible; and the way these restorations are carried out deserves the gTeatest 
 praise. Muckross domain, famed for extraordinary beauty, entirely encircles 
 the Middle Lake, the road round wliich is about 8 miles in length. Dr.
 
 MUCKROSS ABBKV. 
 
 119 
 
 Berkeley, Bishop of Cloyne, said, that Louis XIV. mii^-ht lay out a second 
 Versailles, but, with all his revenue, could not make such a domain as Muck- 
 ross. Gorham, the cicerone, is a most pohte and intelligent guide, whose 
 present position is a strange illustration of the vicissitudes of fortune, and so 
 the visitor will think on hearing the man's record of his life and times. 
 
 YEW TREE IN MUCKliOSS AUISEY. DKAWN' UV JIAUONY. 
 
 Stag Hxtnts on the Lakes usually are intended as a compliment to some 
 tlistinguished visitor. Mr. Weld, in his beautifully illustrated work, says :— 
 " The day preceding the hunt, an experienced person is sent up the mountain 
 to search for the deer Avhich remain the most aloof from their companions ; 
 and they are generally found at the dawn, in the vicinity of their eveninj? 
 liaunts. Before day, the dogs are conducted up as silently as possible, and
 
 120 
 
 STAG HUNT ON THE LAKES. 
 
 CLOISTERS OF JIUCKUGSS ABBEY. 
 
 kept coupled until some sii^nal rcommonly the firing- of a small cannon) an- 
 nounces that the party which commands the hunt has arrived in hoats at the 
 foot of the mountain : then they are loosed back upon the track of the deer : 
 if the business has been silently and orderly conducted, the report, the hunters' 
 sudden shouts which instantly succeed it, the opening of the dogs, and the 
 echoes along- wood and mountain, produce an effect singularly grand. The 
 deer endeavours to gain the summit, and people, at intervals along the heights 
 by loud shouting, drive liim towards the lake. The hunt, however, begins to 
 lose its interest after the first burst. The ruggedness of the ground em- 
 barrasses the pursuers ; tlie scent is followed with difficulty, and often is totally 
 lost for a time ; much confusion also arises from the people on the water being
 
 MISCELLANEOUS VIEWS. 121 
 
 emulous to follow the course of the hunt, especially if it should take a direc- 
 tiou towards the Upper Lake, when the contending- boats are frequently en- 
 tangled among the rocks and shoals of the river which leads to it ; tliose who 
 attempt to follow the deer through the woods are generally excluded from 
 the grand spectacle of his plunging into the lake. It is, therefore recom- 
 mended to remain in a boat, and those who have patience to wait live or six 
 hours are seldom disappointed. On finding himself closely pressed, the deer 
 generally leaps boldly from a rock into the lake, and swims towards one of the 
 islands ; but, terrified by the approacli of the boats, he often once more seeks 
 for safety on the main shore : sometimes, in a desperate effort to leap across 
 a chasm between two rocks, his strength fiiils him, and he falls exhausted to 
 the bottom, in which case it is most interesting to beliold ladies, gentlemen, 
 peasants, hunters, combined in various groups around the noble victim, as he 
 lays extended in the depth of the forest. The stag is usually on these occa- 
 sions preserved from death. The chase of the red deer affords a much higher 
 gratification to the sportsmen than in most other places ; for when a stag is 
 hunted near the lake, nothing can be more agreeably surprising than the re- 
 peated echoes, it being scarcely possible to distinguish the real clangour of 
 the French horns, or the true cry of the dogs, from the numberless reverbera- 
 tions of them among the rocks and mountains." 
 
 Compelled, by our plan, to refrain from diffuse disquisition, it is with diffi- 
 culty we can withhold ourselves from quoting the pauegjTics pronounced on 
 this lovely region by pens the most illustrious in literature : we must content 
 ourselves, however, with one brief extract from Lady Chatterton, wlio, in her 
 interesting work on the South of Ireland, thus describes it : — " A region of 
 enchantments; a hundred descriptions have been written, thousands of sketches 
 made, but no description I have read, or sketch I have seen, made me familiar 
 with Killarney. The Upper Lake and the Lower Lake, ]\Iuckross and Innis- 
 fallen, must be seen to be understood. It is the colouring, the gleam of sun- 
 shine, the cloud, the tone, the eSect — what, in short, cannot be conveyed by 
 the pen without the cant of art, and is beyond the ])ower of the pencil — that 
 gives a magic to the scenery of Killarney. I say beyond the power of the 
 pencil, because everything changes its hue so rapidly, and the forms of ob- 
 jects seem to change with their colour ; it is imjwssible to convey the variety 
 of images ])resented to the eye : the eye may follow them as it follows the 
 flash of lightning, but to record faithfully requires thought and profound re- 
 pose, whicli dwell not here." 
 
 Miscellaneous Views. — Our space will not allow us to say more of the 
 Island of Dinas, than that it affords a greater diversity of prospect than any 
 place of the same extent on the confines of Killarney. On passing round its 
 shores. Tore Lake, the Bay of Glena, and tlie rapid river from the LTpper 
 Lake rushing in a torrent under the Old Weir Bridge, successively open to 
 view. We must likewise leave the reader, in the exploration of the various 
 mountains, to the guides, premising that there are two things whicli the tourist, 
 on no account, should start without, viz., a packet of provisions and a good oak 
 stick ; the former an antidote for the mountain air, the latter invaluable in 
 making progress. The proper routes, as said before, will be ])ointed out by 
 the guides, and visitors should not proceed without one : in addition to saving 
 time", and avoiding inconvenience, they point out many interesting views which 
 otherwise would very likely escape a stranger. Owing to the facility with 
 which Mangerton may be ascended, it is that which tourists usually select in 
 preference to Carran Tual, much liigher ; no reason, however, when time per-
 
 122 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS VIEWS. 
 
 raits, why persons should not ascend both, as the views afforded are really very 
 different. Certainly no rang-e of mountains at Killarney, or indeed any part 
 of Ireland, can compare with the Twelve Pins, in Connemara, or the Killeries, 
 in Joyce's Country. But though these are niore sublime than anything- Ivil- 
 larney presents, yet its scenery possesses eminent beauty and variety of colour- 
 inn- — owing- to abundance of timber — which would be in vain sought in Conne- 
 mara. After some three hours' exertion in ascending Mangerton, the Devil's 
 Punch Bowl is reached — a lake of considerable extent, 2,206 feet above the 
 
 THE devil's rUNCH-BOWL, KILLARNEY. 
 
 sea, occupying a deep chasm, extremely cold, which may account for two sin- 
 gular circumstances the guide mentions, namely, that it never freezes, and 
 contains no fish, although abundance of trout are found in the stream which 
 (lows from it, and which finally forms that magnificent waterfall, the Tore 
 Cascade. 
 
 About 500 feet higher we arrive at the top of Mangerton, and should the 
 day be favourable, a most charming view is obtained, to the Shannon north, 
 and including the bays of Dingle, Kenmare, and Bantry on the south-west 
 coast. A magnificent prospect is also obtained of Macgillicuddy's Reeks, 
 seen to the utmost advantage from this point. To adventurous tourists, the 
 best descent from the mountain is by Glenacappul, but on no account attempt 
 it without a guide ; these mountains, from theii' great height, frequently be- 
 come dangerously enveloped in mist.
 
 GLENAC'APPUL, OR THE GLEN OF THE HORSE. 123 
 
 THE REEKS, FROM THE PL'IU'LE JIOUXTAIN. 
 
 Carran Tual, 3,394 feet high, the loftiest peak in Ireland. 
 
 Glenacappul, or the Glex of the Horse, from one of these animals 
 having- been precipitated down the cliff's, is qnite unique and almost inaccessi- 
 ble, except from one point, where the waters of the lake discharge themselves. 
 It is a work of considerable labour to visit it, but presents a scene of wild 
 and savage grandeur, which completely baffles description. 
 
 Having visited these points, it will be time to retrace one's steps, as, even 
 from Cloghreen, the nearest place at which there is an hotel for visitors to 
 this mountain range, not less than 1 2 miles will have been traversed. 
 
 Supplementary Ramblings. — Notwithstanding the numerous attractions 
 Killarney possesses, the drive along the Kenmare mail-coacli road will not he 
 esteemed the least interesting. It will not be too much to say, that in her 
 Majesty's dominions — on which the sun never sets — there is not a more truly 
 picturesque drive than that between Killarney and Looscannagh Lough. One 
 of the first points worthy special notice, is the glen through which the Galway 
 River discharges a large volume of water, forming in its descent the celebrated 
 cascade of Derrycunnihy, one of the finest of the Killarney waterfalls, 
 and which is fm-ther interesting from the extreme beauty of its situation. 
 We question whether, in the whole environs of Killarney, a more charming- 
 spot could have been selected than that which formed the site of Hyde's Cot- 
 tage. After passing the Eagle's Nest, the road winds through Tore Moun- 
 tain, and finally leads us to Tore Cottage, near which is the celebrated cascade 
 of that name, considered by many to be superior to either Derrycunnihy or 
 O'Sullivan's : it is certainly very beautiful, but, where they all possess so niany 
 attractions, it seems difficult to decide upon their respective merits. Amongst 
 the principal points of interest remaining to be noticed are, the ruins of 
 Aghadoe, with its round tower (from whose top a most magnificent view of 
 the lakes may be obtained). Lough Guitane, and the scenery along the Cap- 
 pagh River, which flows into it. These must be considered, however, as of 
 secondary importance, compared to the places which have been already noticed. 
 About four miles from Aghadoe stands Dunloe Castle, during the wars of 
 Desmond an object of frequent attack. Lough Guitane affords excellent 
 fishing, but this may be said of the great fish-abounding lakes. Of all who
 
 124 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY RAMBLINGS. 
 
 have written on the Lakes, the reader will, of course, infinitely prefer to 
 hear what was said in prose by him whose poetry could throw additional 
 enchantment around even such a place. Of the tw^elve songs in the ninth 
 
 VILLAGE OF CLOGHREEN. — TUKC AND iMANGEin\>N IN THE DISTANCE. 
 
 number of the Melodies — perhaps the most Irish part of that national 
 work — according to Mr. Crofton Croker, nine of them have reference to 
 local feelings, or traditions, or circumstances which arose out of the poet's 
 visit to Ireland in 1822. Thus, " Sweet Innisfallen," and " ' Twas one of those 
 dreams," obviously allude to Ivillarney ; and " In yonder valley there dwells," 
 originated in an anecdote connected with O'Sullivan's Cascade ; while the 
 song commencing " By the Feal's wave benighted," is founded on a romantic 
 incident in the history of the Geraldines. It was on the occasion of tliis
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY BAMBLINGS. 
 
 125 
 
 visit that Moore, being treated to a performance of some of his own lyrics ou 
 mountain and wave, described the effect as he alone could, viz.. 
 
 The wild notes he heard o'er the waters were 
 
 those 
 To which he had suug Erin's bondage and 
 
 woes, 
 And the echoes hung back from their full 
 
 mountain choir, 
 As if loth to let song so enchanting expire ; 
 
 It seem'd as if ev'ry sweet note that died here 
 Was again brought to life in some airier 
 
 sphere, 
 Some heaven in those hills where the soul 
 
 of the strain 
 That had ceased upon earth was awaking 
 
 again. 
 
 But the record of the visit to which we more immediately wish to call at- 
 tention, is that contained in Volumes 3 and 4 of the poet's " Memoirs and 
 Diary," edited by Lord John Russell. 
 
 Driven down to Koss Island, and embarked on the Lake. Lady Kenmare's first time 
 i>f being on her own lakes, having been but ten days here, and reserving her dehut (as she 
 says) for my coming. Landed on lunisfallen, and enjoyed thoroughly its loveliness. 
 Never was anything more beautiful. Went afterwards to Sullivan's Cascade, which was 
 in high beauty. Curious effect of a child on high, crossing the glen; seemed as if it was 
 flitting across the waterfall. The peasants that live on tlie opposite bank come over with 
 fi'uit when strangers appear; and their appearance, with their infants, stepping from rock 
 to rock, across tlie cascade, highlj' picturesque. Instance of the hospitality of the poor 
 cotters, that it is the practice of many of their families to lay hy, each individual every 
 day, one potato and a sup of milk for a stranger that may come. Made an attempt to see 
 the Upper Lake, and, spite of weather, was enchanted with the echo at the Eagle's Nest, 
 and the view from Dinis- [Dinas or DinishJ of the old Weir Bridge on one side, and the 
 plank bridge over the entrance into Turk [Tore] Lake on the other. This river between 
 the lakes delicious. On reaching the Upper Lake, could see nothing from the shroud of 
 mist and rain that was over everything. Lunched at Hyde's Cottage, and returned by 
 Turk Lake, aiul paid another visit to Innisfallen. A beautiful day at last. Went with 
 Lord Kenmare to see the Upper Lake. The whole scene exquisite. Loveliness is the 
 word that suits it best. The grand is less grand than what may be found among the 
 Alps, but the softness, the luxuriance, the variety of colouring, the little gardens that 
 every small rock exhibits, the romantic disposition of the islands, and graceful sweep of 
 the shores — all this is unequalled anywhere else. The water-lilies in the river, botli 
 white and yellow, are worthy inhabitants of such a region. 
 
 And with this extract we close our brief and most imperfect little sketch 
 of the maeric region of the Lakes. 
 
 Land of strange contrasts ! Nature's fairest 
 
 home. 
 And dreariest place of exile! This bright 
 
 spot 
 Is blest with beauty, such as mermaid's grot 
 Or Dryad's haunt in legends of old Home, 
 Or more poetic Greece invested not, 
 Italian colours in the airs that come 
 Fresh from the free Atlantic bathe the tops 
 Of purple mountains, as the heat-cloud drops 
 
 On Carran Tual's throne, while greenest hues 
 Such as woo'd Claude Lorraine in midnight 
 
 dreams. 
 Children of sunbeams and of crystal dews. 
 And crags, and coves, and countless gush- 
 ing streams, 
 W inding through fern, and heath, and odo- 
 rous copse. 
 With glorious show the raptured soul ecu- 
 fuse.
 
 SOUTHEEX BLACKWATER.-MALLOW TO YOUGHAL. 
 
 The country in the neighbourhood of Mallow is not surpassed in the 
 kingdom for river scenery, either side the Blackwater being studded \nth 
 objects of attraction. The valley through which this beauteous stream runs 
 is the great cider country, and is to Ireland what Devonshire is to England, 
 the produce of Blackwater apples being famous over the world. Though 
 probably the most beautiful of all British rivers, thi'oughout the world the 
 synonyme of all that is charming of its kind, it is little known, practically 
 speaking, even to thousands, who, from catching a glimpse here and there, 
 rave about it. Rising near King "William's To^vn, on the borders of Cork 
 and Kerry, and pursuing its course by Mallow, Fermoy, and Lismore, it 
 falls into the sea at Youghal, seventy-five miles from its souixe. From 
 Cappoquin, where it becomes navigable till it joins the sea, nothing meets 
 the eye but one scene more exquisite than another, the whole country a 
 glorious panorama. The tourist's course is from Cork by coach to Youghal 
 (of which by-and-by), on by car to Lismore, or by water to Cappoquin, and 
 thence to ^fallow and Killarncy. By tliis latter route another large portion 
 of country will be seen which bears the evidence of the princely bounty of 
 the Duke of Devonshire, whose annual visits have been most salutary, and 
 have rendered liis Grace's name idolised. The tom'ist may adopt the other, 
 and perhaps better, com"sc, viz., proceeding by car from ^fallow to Lismore, 
 the most beautiful part of the valley of the Blackwater, on to Cappoquin 
 and Youghal, returning by water to Cappoquin, and by car to Mallow. In 
 the neighboui-hood of Cappoquin is Mount Melleray, a Trappist monastery, 
 to whose brotherhood, a few years since. Sir 11. Kane, Bart., granted a large 
 tract of barren mountain, which they so reclaimed by their own labour that 
 that which was then waste now grows good crops, lea^•ing a sm-plus for 
 educating, feeding, and clothing the poor of the ncighboui'hood. Visitors 
 are politely received by one of the fi-aternity, who is absolved from the rule, 
 which otherwise commands unbroken silence, when performing the rites of 
 hosi)itality to strangers. This building, belonging to the order of the cele- 
 brated Mount St. Bernard, is a fine one, the community being governed by 
 a mitred abbot, who has the same jm-isdictiou in his convent as a bishop in 
 his diocese. 
 
 Cappoquin House, seat of Sir R. Kane, is a fine mansion, in a lovely 
 demesne, and affords a full -sdew of the river. Two miles further down is 
 Tom-cen, the delightfully-situated residence of a worthy coadjutor in the 
 advancement of liis native coimtry, viz., Su- R. Musgrave, Bart., whose 
 eflForts to promote the interests of this district have been most beneficial. 
 Xcar tliis is Drumi'oe, seat of Su* "W. Jackson Homan, Bart. ; and nearly 
 opposite is Dromana Castle, the noble residence of Lord Stewart de 
 Decies, once that of the Desmouds, and now suiTounded with most magni-
 
 MALLOW TO YOUGHAL. 127 
 
 ficeut timber, rising immediately over the river, and bearing about it all 
 that can be well imagined as appropriate to the stronghold of a great feudal 
 baron, though some of the recent adcUtions mar in a degree the line effect of 
 the older part of the building. Adjoining the demesne is the -pretty petit 
 \illage of Villierstown, with its tasteful little chm-ch. Further down 
 the river are the extensive j)lantations recently effected by Mr. J. Keily, 
 and the fine demesne of Caraphire, seat of Mr. Usher. At this point 
 description may indeed be taxed to give the remotest idea of the quiet 
 beauty of the scene. 
 
 Itowing with the gentle cm-rent, at the junction of the Bride with the 
 Blackwater, six miles fi-om Cappoquin, we pass the demesne of Head- 
 borough, on rising ground, scat of the Kev. Percy Smith ; after wliich we 
 enter a delightful bay, formed by the wooded shores on which is Strancally 
 Castle. The modern building, now occupied by Mr. Keily, is a good 
 specimen of Gothic castellated arcliitectm-e ; while the old edifice, from 
 which the name of the modern one is taken, lies in rvdn fom- miles distant, 
 and fm-nishes one of the many illustrations with which Ireland abounds of 
 the bloody and hand-to-hand struggle the invader had to engage in before 
 lie effected Ireland's conquest. Tliis castle was destroyed by order of 
 Elizabeth, who long, with good reason, feared that her fierce enemies, the 
 Earls of Desmond, might again possess it. The spot is otherwise j^regnant 
 with historic memorabilia. Here was planted the first potato grown in 
 Em'ope by him wlio played so prominent a part in the world's history. In 
 that quiet nook Raleigh put into the generous earth Cobbett's " accm-sed 
 root," the fruit whereof, say the pliilosophers, wrought degradation and 
 nearly " all the woes " of Ireland. Little did Sir Walter imagine, when 
 accompanied by him of " The Faerie Queen " — " the gentle Edmund " — 
 and while his adventm-ous spirit was ch-eaming of Spanish galleons and 
 South American gold, that a diminutive bulb, germinating in the land 
 where he felt himself an exile, would be the som-cc of breaking up a large 
 section of society, and tm-ning a fine people into wanderers on the face of 
 the earth, some beyond that far-ofi' mystic main he loved, and which was 
 then believed to be the limits of the globe. 
 
 The toui'ist can proceed from Cappoquin by car to the pictm-esque town 
 of Lismore, which is situated higher up this delightful river, and the first 
 glance at which tells how fittingly it was called " Lismore of the Saints," 
 for it is indeed an earthly paradise : — Noble trees, in endless diversity of 
 foliage, snug homesteads, and a happy and contented population, in whose 
 smiling faces we read the biography of the man whose name is in every 
 mouth, and for whose welfare the simple peasant prays with fullest truth- 
 fulness of gratitude. The Devonshu-e property may be said to comprise all 
 this district for thirty miles round. In liis Grace's visits to this portion of 
 liis vast estates, nothing can exceed the enthusiasm of the reception of tliis 
 prince of landlords, whose anxiety for the welfare of his tenantry is evinced 
 in the schools, dwellings, and in the places of public worship of every kind, 
 for all persuasions alike, erected by his bounty. Indeed, the entii'c bevon- 
 shii-e estate in Ii-eland may be justly termed a great model farm. From 
 the fine bridge over the Blackwater, erected by the duke at a cost of £9,000, 
 notliing can surpass the beauty of the scenes, with the majestic old, yet 
 modernised, castle, reposing loftily in the midst of venerable trees, and the 
 gentle river flowing tranquilly at its base. One portion of the quacbaugle 
 is occupied by Mr. F. E. CmTy, his Grace's principal agent, than whom no
 
 128 MALLOW TO YOUGHAL. 
 
 worthier representative could be found of so magnanimous a master. 
 Apropos of the large window in front of Lismore Castle is an incident 
 illustrative of the character of James II. In 1690, while sojourning here, 
 the deposed king was brought to the %vindow by liis host for the purpose of 
 viewing the scenery around. Finding himself on the balcony, at so vast 
 an altitude, he was seized with a paroxysm of fear, and accused liim whose 
 house gave him shelter, and who secm-ed him from his enemies, with the 
 intention of hui'ling him into the abyss below. Lismore and the sm-rounding 
 country were originally the jiroperty of lialeigh, from whom they were 
 pm-chased by Robert Boyle, great ancestor of the houses of Devonshire, 
 Cork and Orrery, and Shannon. Boyle, the great natural philosopher, a 
 descendant of the pm-chascr, was born here. The name given to the 
 invaluable astronomical instrument which he discovered is derived fi-om the 
 barony of Orrery, which constituted a portion of liis title of Earl of Cork 
 and Viscount Orrery. Congreve, the di'amatic poet, was also born here, 
 though Leeds is his reputed birthplace ; and here some of the noblest in 
 the land have acted, in every sense, " The Way of the World." Lismore is 
 an admirable point to start from, if the touiist should be anxious to see 
 Mitchelstown Castle, said to be one of the finest baronial residences in 
 the three kingdoms, scarcely any excepted. It is easily reached by good 
 mountain roads across the Knockmeladown and Kilworth mountains, scenes 
 of the exploits of Freney, the celebrated highwayman, drawn so admirably 
 by Lever, in his " Knight of Gwynne." Another knight of the road also 
 rendered this locality famous ; but Brennan had none of the ehivahy of 
 liis contemporary, and was nothing more than a mere robber. The former, 
 though condemned to death, was pardoned ; the latter was hanged near 
 Kilworth. From Mitchelstown — which is well worthy of a ^■isit, not less 
 on the score of its almost regal castle than of its astonishing caves — we may 
 proceed by car to Knocklong station on the Great Southern and Western, 
 already described. 
 
 lleturning by car to Cappoqmn, and continuing by the Blackwater — 
 which loses some of its attractions at low water, as it is influenced by the 
 tidal way about three miles below Lismore — a circumstance, however, for- 
 gotten in the varied beauties of shores replete with llhine-like loveliness — 
 we now proceed onwards towards Youghal, famous for its ruins, strand, and 
 historic associations. To obtain a fuller view of the surrounding country, a 
 detour to the west will well reward this trouble. After leaving the 
 delightful scenery around the Lismore, we advance along the roads leading 
 to Tallow, crossing the rich upland country between the Blackwater and 
 the Bride. The well-planned road, kept in capital order, winds down hill 
 by a series of gradual descents, with many occasional levels, whence may be 
 obtained views of the rich spreading valley through which the Bride pm-sues 
 its com-se, passing through Tallow ; at the opposite side of the valley, the 
 high grounds stretch southward, forming the boundary of the luxuriant vale 
 between Cork and Youghal. Tallow is situated on the Bride five miles 
 above its confluence with the Blackwater, which is navigable for barges of 
 40 tons to within a short distance of the town, but the principal trade of 
 the district is absorbed by Youghal. A short distance above the town. 
 County Cork side of the boundary, stands Lissfinney Castle, residence of 
 Captain Croker, once an important stronghold of the Desmonds. Further 
 on are Kilmacon and Mageela Abbey, Carriglass, and Carrigeen, seats 
 of Mr. G. Gumbleton and Mr. H. Peard. Tiuee miles fui-ther up the
 
 MALLOW TO YOUGHAL. 129 
 
 valley are the interesting ruins of Conna Castle. From various spots in 
 this direction superb mountain views are revealed, especially the towering 
 summit of Knockmeladown, often covered with its diadem of snow, even in 
 advanced summer. A rude cairn on the summit is pointed out as the 
 sportsman's grave, where lie buried an eccentric local celebrity and his dog. 
 From Tallow to Youghal the road is bleak and uninteresting, crossing a 
 ridge of barren hills. Passing the magnificent locale of Garryduif, the scene 
 alters for the better. Before us the bay and harbour of Youghal, with 
 Cable Island in front, and the town, with its adjacent handsome villas, 
 snugly embosomed within the harbour. Another mile or two, and we enter 
 Youghal, one of the Irish seaports to wliich municipal privileges were 
 granted by King John. It was formerly fortified, and sustained various 
 sieges, Cromwell making it the head-quaiicrs during his campaign in the 
 South. It consists of one central thoroughfare, with various streets branch- 
 ing off, besides quays and wharfs. About the centre is the clock-gate 
 (forming also the town prison), perforated by a lofty arch, which spans the 
 central street, constituting what are called the North and South main 
 streets. Amongst the dwellings are some beautiful specimens of quaint 
 arcliitecture ; not the least interesting the old College and older Collegiate 
 Chapel, fitted up as a parish church. Here will be found some interesting 
 monuments, amongst which is that of the first Earl of Cork. The Roman 
 Catholic Chiu'ch is a very fuie building ; the houses of worship for other 
 persuasions handsome and respectable. The town contains numerous 
 schools, an Infirmary, a Lying-in Hospital, and, of com\sc, a Union Work- 
 house, together with two excellent hotels and posting-houses — the Devon- 
 shire Arms and Campbell's ; the markets, moreover, being good and plen- 
 tifully supplied. Amongst the antiquities in the immediate vicinity may 
 be reckoned the picturesque ruins of the Dominican Friary, and the 
 veritable dwelling built and occupied by Raleigh, now the property of 
 Colonel Faunt. The surrounding grounds are limited, but contain many 
 features of interest. The house itself presents a wonderful specimen of the 
 solidity of the mason-work of a remote period ; indeed, exteriorly and 
 internally, it is said to have suffered little change since it was the dwelling 
 of its founder ; and may be considered, even at the present day, an authentic 
 specimen of the plainest Elizabethan style. It having become necessary to 
 make repairs in the interior some years ago, a quantity of books and MSS. 
 were discovered behind a wainscot, evidently a portion of the library of the 
 scholar-knight. The little demesne is now called Myi-tle Grove, contain- 
 ing indeed a perfect grove of real Eastern myi'tles ; also the famous grouj) 
 of majestic yew-trees, spoken of during many generations, and originally 
 planted, it is asserted, by Sir Walter himself. The greater part of tlie 
 town, with much of comitry round, as well as the ground property in 
 Tallow, Dungarvan, Lismore, &c., are all comprised in the estate of the 
 Duke of Devonshii'e, who is the. proprietor in fee of one half of the town of 
 Bandon, vuth several vast tracts of land in other parts of the South. The 
 trade of Youghal consists chiefly in the export of grain, butter, flour, and 
 live stock ; and in the imj)ort of coals from Wales, and of timber and iron, 
 with a variety of minor articles. A beautiful strand stretches along the 
 margin of the sea to the westward for five miles, white, smooth, and even, 
 and horse-races are frequently held on it. The envii'ons upon the Black- 
 water side are in the highest degree interesting. A mile north of the town
 
 130 MALLOW TO YOUGHAL. 
 
 is the "Wooden Bridge — a viaduct of 3,600 feet, of which nearly 2,000 feet i& 
 bridged — connecting Youghal with the opposite side of the estuary, and 
 forming a ready communication with TJungarvan, at a cost of £20,000. 
 Descending the river to Youghal by boat, the breadth of the stream, the 
 wooded heights, and romantic glens at cither side, combine to render this 
 portion of the Blackwater highly attractive. Above Wooden Bridge to 
 tae left are the ruins of Rencrew Castle. Higher up still is Temple 
 I\Iichael, with its ancient demesne and pretty church. Fm-ther on is the 
 wild wooded defile of Glendine, through which passes the road fi'om 
 Youghal to Cappoquin ; and Ballinatray, seat of Mr. 11. Smith — a noble 
 demesne, on the right bank of the Blackwater, the mansion in the centre of 
 a splendiid park, from which gorgeous views are obtained of inland and 
 ocean scenery. In tliis park are the ruins of an old abbey, wherein the 
 bones of llaymond Le Gros, friend and companion-in-arms of Strongbow, 
 are said to l)e buiied. Ballinatray is the birthplace of Miss Penelope 
 Sm;^'th, now Princess of Capua, and whose family feuds with her royal 
 relatives ore matters of much Neapolitan, not to say Eui'opcan, notoriety. 
 The environs of Youghal, on the Cork side, are comparatively uninteresting, 
 A large tract of bog (Bally verigan), extending a considerable distance, 
 gives the scene a flat and di-carj' character. The prospect in the distance is, 
 however, relieved by the handsome demesnes and \illas occupying the 
 higher grovuids, from which fine "siews may be had of Youghal Harbour, 
 Cable Island, the strand, and suiTOunding coast. 
 
 *^* In introducing the next tour, we have to explain, that the larger 
 illustrations, having been prepared for a more voluminous description, have 
 had to be crowded together, and some of them come much in advance of the 
 text they were meant for ; but their beauty and fidelity will, we trust, be 
 the best apology for ii'regular arrangement.
 
 LDIERICK, THE LOWER SHAMOX, MD THE SUIE. 
 
 KlLLARNEY TO LiMERlCK. — Taking tlic iip-tvain to Dublin at the 
 IMallow station, we proceed to the Luierick Junction, where the Great 
 Southern and Western joins the Limerick and '^^'aterford. The accommo- 
 dation on these two spk^idid lines is excellent, neatness and order every- 
 where apparent at this diverging pomt, where the up and down trains stop 
 for 10 minutes ; the handsome rcfi-eshment-rooms being admirably fitted 
 up, the fare admhable, and charges moderate. Starting for the City of 
 " the Violated Treaty," we pass the stations of Oola, Pallas, Dromkeen, 
 Boher, and Killconau. Little worthy of interest offers till near Pallas 
 station, where Glenstale Castle, seat of Sir M. Eariingtou, forms a beautiful 
 featui-e. Few names are better known in the South than that of Sii' 
 Matthew, now in his sixty-foui-th year, having been crown-solicitor for 
 Munster since 1816, succeeding to his father as second baronet in 1846. 
 The late Su- Joseph, in connexion with the present bcironct and others of 
 liis sous, provided an hospital and infu-mary, bearing their name, in the city 
 of Limerick, which had already possessed many memorials of the muni- 
 ficence of the family, settled in the county for several generations. Near 
 Boher station are the demesnes of Thornvale, Bichhill, Midkern, and Mount 
 Shannon, seat of Earl Clare, son of the famous John Fitzgibbon, Lord 
 Chancellor Clare, so notorious in the political history of Ireland at the 
 period of the Union, and so vividly described in the "Hise and Fall of the 
 Irish Nation," by Sir Jonah Barrington. The noble earl is the brother of 
 ihe second Lord Clare, of whom IMoore relates that Byron said, " I never 
 hear the word Clare (his schoolfellow) Avithout a beating of the heart." 
 Approaching Limerick terminus, is the extensive Lmiatic Asylum, and near 
 it the County Gaol, on a vast scale. ArriA-ing at the terminus, a car or 
 omnibus conveys us either to Cruise's long deservedly celebrated hotel, or 
 " The Clai'e," a very admii-able one, and both as reasonable as excellent. 
 
 The City of Limerick presents, on one side, the aspect of a new and 
 floui'isliing place of business— well-bvdlt streets, fine residences, and modern 
 improvements ; on the other, Avretchcd and squalid poverty, dilapidation, 
 and ruin. It is, in point of population and mercantile importance, the 
 fom'th city in Ireland, being to the west what Cork and Belfast are to the 
 south and north. It stands on the Shannon (80 miles from the iVtlantic), 
 " the Icing of Irish rivers" — " the spacious Shenan spreading like a sea" — 
 celebrated in Spenser. The charter is as old as Richard I. ; its great castle 
 was built by John ; and in strength and magnitude the place, fi-om the 
 earliest period, held fii'st rank of all towns of Ireland in the eyes of con- 
 tending native or foreign princes and parties. In fi-ont of Limerick, m 
 1651, Ireton sat dowii, djdng (at the end of a six months' siege) of the 
 plague, and of mortification brought on by this, the fii-st and only discomfi- 
 
 K 2
 
 132 LIMERICK TO KILLARNEY. 
 
 ture of CromTvell's Ironsides, whom he commanded. Like the majority of 
 Irish cities near the sea, which gave facilities for invasion, the Danes 
 settled here in the ninth century, and continued its masters until their final 
 overt hroAV at Clontarf, by the Irish, under Brian Boroihme, on Good Friday, 
 April 23rd, 1014. After their expulsion, the place became the seat of the 
 kings of Thomond, to the period of the Anglo-Norman invasion. The 
 Castle is perhaps one of tlie most interesting portions of its antiquities — 
 erected to protect the conquerors from the native Irish.* It consists of 
 seven massive towers of great solidity, and bids fail' to endm-e for centuries, 
 it being now partly a barrack. The manufactures are limited, being prin- 
 cipally fish-hooks, gloves, lace and blonde netting ; but so famous for these 
 that every city in the kingdom has a " Limerick " factory of its own. 
 Nay, lace manufactm-cd in this city has been exported to Belgium, sent back 
 as Mechlin, and sold for four times the price it could have been pui'chased 
 for where it was originally made — and this, too, to persons who piqued 
 themselves on their' judgment in these matters. 
 
 The Cathedi'al, for a building of its immense age, continues in extra- 
 ordinary conservation ; its massive walls and venerable tower still remain. 
 Long after its foundation it was further benefited by Donough O'Brien, 
 who died 1207. Its bells are said to have been cast by an Italian, and 
 placed in the camjninile of a convent in his own country. He had many 
 childi'en, who fell in the wars between Francis and Charles, and lost three 
 sons at Pavia. The sound of his own bells was the music of memory to liis 
 lonely heart. Change, revolution, and war came on, the bells were removed, 
 and the Italian was desolate. Staff in hand, he left his lowly home in 
 search of their music. On an autumn evening, in 1559, an old man was 
 seen in the stern of a boat in the Shannon, when the bells of the Limerick 
 
 In 1690, William, after the Boync, summoned Limerick, defended ty the remnant 
 of the Irish army, to surrender. It held out, under an unexampled assault and most 
 adverse circumstances ; and the heroism of the resistance, no less than the devoted 
 loyalty to a desperate cause, deservedly constitutes the theme of exultation with 
 every succeeding generation of patriot Irishmen. One chief feature was the mag- 
 nanimity of its defenders in disdaining opportunities that would have long pro- 
 tracted the siege, or, perhaps, compelled its being abandoned, after they had entered 
 upon negotiations for capitulating. There were, in fact, during the wars of the 
 Revolution, two sieges. First, the city was well supplied with troops and proA-isions, 
 its fortifications perfect, and the French fleet, in communication with the French 
 general and troops (James's allies) within the town, rode triumjihantly in the 
 Shannon. In "20 days the English and Dutch, weai'ied out, raised the siege ; but 
 in 1691, greater forces were sent, and, despite the splendid defence, under Sarsfield, 
 the chivalrous Irish general, a surrender in six weeks had to be submitted to. The 
 treaty (3rd October) allowed the garrison to march out with all the honours of 
 war, and other stipvilations were made, the violation of which led to the animosities 
 of ages. It is to this latter incident that all the local annalists of the popular 
 party make exulting reference, as the opposite party do to the no less heroic defence 
 of Londonderry, in the interest of William ; and even the little local Railway 
 Gu-ide-book, still tinciured with the animus of the feud, commences its invitation to 
 the traveller in this strain: — "Who has not heard of Limerick? — the city of the 
 Violated Treaty ! the city of fiiir women and curdy salmon ! — resting like a Naiad 
 queen on her throne of waters ! Wherever there is a feeling of admiration and emula- 
 tion in a young and free heart for old chivalrous honour. Limerick must be ever re- 
 membered, even for the fact of the noble and gallant Sars*tield having there kept to 
 the letter of his treaty of surrender, when the thimdcr of the cannon of the ships 
 which told relief was near echoed over the old town, even while the pen was yet poised 
 in his fingers." The " treaty-stone," the huge block on which tradition relates that 
 the compact was signed by both parties, is pointed out on the Clare side of the river.
 
 LIMERICK TO KILKENNY. 
 
 133 
 
 Cathedral pealed out the hour of evening prayer. Rapture was their sound 
 to his rapt soul ; and, midst the contending influences of joy and sadness, 
 the aged wanderer folded his arms over his weary heart, and expired : — 
 such is the legend. Diu'ing the last siege, the steeple had a large gun 
 placed on the top of its tower, and was plied with extraordinary effect. 
 The gunner was ultimately killed, btit Ginkle fu-ed no longer against the 
 church. Vessels of 400 tons can now float alongside the quay ; lightly- 
 laden emigrant ships of largest tonnage beside tlie wharf. During the 
 works by the Shannon Commissioners, here and elsewhere in the river, 
 were discovered antique remains, including human skeletons of gigantic 
 proportions, fossil horns and bones of the Irish elk, cinerary urns, spear- 
 
 ..^- 
 
 ^m^- 
 
 KI>0 JOH>'s CASTLE, AND THOMUNU BRIDGE, LIMEIUCK. 
 
 heads of bronze and stone, bronze swords, armlets, and fibulae of gold, &c., 
 and forwarded to the ^luscum of the Koyal Irish Academy, Besides the 
 Cathedi-al, Limerick contains ^tlie Protestant chiu'ches of St. John's, St. 
 Munchin's, St. Gecrgc's (a chapel of ease), and the Episcopal chapel attached 
 to the Blind Asylum ; eight Koman Catholic churches and chapels ; various 
 dissenting congTcgations ; several free schools ; six bridges ; a Chamber of 
 Commerce, Custom-house, banks, and numerous fine buildings. It is the 
 head-quarters of the military in the south-west ; and there are two infantry 
 barracks, one for cavalry, and another for artillery. Of late Limerick has 
 been considerably improved, chiefly by the exertions of Sir Matthew 
 Barrington and Lord Montcagle, in whose honour a handsome column has 
 been deservedly erected, surmounted by a statue of his lordship.
 
 134 LIMERICK TO KILLAKNEY. 
 
 It M'ould be as great an omission to leave Limerick without seeing Garry- 
 owen as to leave Cork without seeing Blarney. GaiTjowen, independent 
 of the immortal air so dear to every Irish heart, and as being the place 
 where " Xo man for debt shall go to jail," is the principal scene of the 
 " Collegians," the exquisite fiction by the author of the " Munster Festivals," 
 and of the favciu'ite play of " Gysippus," in which the latest laurels of 
 Macready were won — Gerald Griffin, who passed from life in the summer 
 of liis days, in the garb of a lowly monlc, and is bui-ied in the cemetery of 
 the Chi-istiau Brothers, at Cork. 
 
 Dowx THE Shaxxox TO THE Sea. — To view the fine scenery of the 
 Shannon as it flows to the sea, the visitor may embark in one of the steamers 
 plying to Ivih'ush, Kilkce, Tarbert, &c. Kihiish, at the head of a small 
 creek or inlet, on the northern bank, 20 miles from the mouth of the estuarj-, 
 is a favoiu'ite watering-place. A new wharf for steamers, a quay, two new 
 streets, stores for corn, 8cc., have been recently built. A mile hence lies 
 Scattery Island, with its picturesque ecclesiastical mins, and venerable 
 round tower. It was here that Senan, a woman-hating hvmks of the St. 
 Kevin (Wicklow) genus, is said to have built a chui'ch, and established a 
 religious retreat, long previous to the mission of St. Patrick. It is also 
 called Holy Isle : and on the festival of the saint it is resorted to by crowds 
 of pilgrims. 
 
 Fm-ther west, and %vithin the bay formed by the promontory of Loop 
 Head, on the suimnit of a rocky cliff overlooking the -s-lllage, are the ruins 
 of Carrigaholt Castle, of most pictm-esque appearance. Thi-ee miles south- 
 west, again, are ruins of Kilballyoweu ^lonastery ; and thi'ee miles further 
 on the rxiins of Cloghantauovun Castle, near which are the caves and 
 puffing-holes, thi-ough which the water is forced in columns a considerable 
 height. The view fi-om the steamer towards the mouth of the river is 
 magnificent. Spcaldng of its aspect fi-om the wild and wonderful promontory 
 of Loop Head, the noble member for Colchester eloquently exclaims : — 
 " AMiat words can describe the glory of that scene ? We lay down and 
 gazed over the lofty rock at the green waves breaking with that wondrous 
 Atlantic swell against a solitary crag, separate fi'om and a-head of its 
 fellows, anxious, as it were, to catch the fii'st salt tidings fi-om America. 
 Though it was a calm, bright day, the force and noise with wliich the huge 
 waves dischai-gcd themselves against the cMs was sui-prising, and the 
 coloui'S ou the ocean were exquisite ; — the main, a dark, solenm purple ; 
 then the waves, as they broke in beautifiil but impotent fury, the loveliest 
 green imaginable ; and then crests and wi'eatlis of milk-white foam dashing 
 up the dark rocks, and falling tlu'ough the bright aii- down to their green 
 bu'thplace agaiu. Thousands of sea-gulls, and a few cormorants wailing 
 and shrieking, hovered around us, and fitly completed this glorious ocean 
 picture." At its mouth, the Shannon is more than ten miles across, fi.'om 
 Loop Head to Kerry Head. The coast fi'om KiLkee to the Head extends 
 about fifteen miles, presenting mmierous inlets affording shelter to vessels. 
 Astonishing is the feai-less boldness ^vith which the fishermen and pilots put 
 out seaward, even in the most tempestuous weather. No boat, however, 
 Hyes better in a heavy sea than the Irish hooker. Bluff in the bows, sides 
 romid as an apple, and a clean run abaft, it floats Uke a vnld duck over 
 mountain waves which tlueaten to submerge ships of largest tonnage. 
 Amongst the most favoiircd resorts in this region is !Miltown ISIalbay, a 
 pretty Uttle town, jiossessing many great advantages dear to travellers —
 
 LIMERICK TO KILLABNEY. 137 
 
 thanks chiefly to Mr. C. O'Brien, who is so deservedly praised by Miss Marti- 
 neau for his taste and libei'ality in having made several delicious spots 
 easily accessible by roads to the most attractive scenery of the cliiis of 
 Moher, which must needs be seen to form a just conception of theii' 
 sublimity, consisting, literally, as they do, of a perpendicular wall or rock 
 five miles from Doolin Bay to Hag's Head point, varying from 300 to 
 nearly 600 feet above the waves, displajdng all the wonderful variety of 
 precipitous ravine and sea-worn caverns, with here and there hollow amphi- 
 theatres, theii- pinnacles of jagged rock presenting the appearance of ruined 
 walls of some vast Gothic cathech-al, whose floor is the ever-changing mosaic 
 of the green ocean, over which everlastingly rush white-crested waves, 
 flinging foam amidst the lofty pinnacles, and leaving theu* sjjray glittering 
 in a thousand gems on the tangled sea-weed. This part of the Shannon 
 would amjjly repay the tourist, at least for a week ; but the scenery may, 
 in some degree, be enjoyed within two summer days. Loi'd Macartney, 
 when embarking in 1791, for his government at Madi-as, thus adch-essed 
 this river, and probably, ere long, the railroad we have been travelling, and 
 the expected establishment of the Atlantic Station, may realise the noble 
 aspiration : — 
 
 " Raptured, I try the strain. 
 
 Great king of floods ! to hail thy new-born reign, 
 
 Which breaks froni darkness like the rise of day 
 
 And gives the i)romise of imperial sway ! 
 
 Already eomineroe spreads her ample stores, 
 
 Pours Afi-ic's riches on lernia's shores ; 
 
 Brings either India's treasures to her view, 
 
 Brazilian gold, and silver of Peru ! 
 
 Bids wondering navies on thy billows ride, 
 
 Bolls the world's wealth, bhanuon, to thy tide !"
 
 LIMEEICK JUNCTION.-TIPPEPtARY TO CLONMEL, 
 "WATERFOED AND KILKENNY. 
 
 The Waterforb and Limerick Railavay, now complotcd to wliere it 
 joins the Watcrford and Kilkenny raUway at Dunkit station, -within two 
 miles of the city of Waterford, traverses the far-renowned Golden Valley of 
 Tipperary, one of the most fertile districts in Eiu-ope, and one Avhose agri- 
 cultui-al peculiarities eveiy tomist interested in fai-ming pm-suits, or quali- 
 fied to judge of soils and crops, A^dll delight to linger in ; though it does 
 not present a very potent allurement to holiday travellers, after the scenery 
 we have just been exploring. That portion of om- Second Toui" describing 
 the town of Tipperary and its neighbour-hood, "will suffice tUl we come to 
 Cahii-, or Caher, a prosperous agricultm-al town, rejoicing in the advantage 
 of a numerous Quaker resident xirox^rietary. The large and valuable estates 
 of the Earl of Glengall, situated in this great agricultm-al district, have been 
 recently sold in the Encumbered Estates Court. The castle, so rich in 
 stories of wars, and sieges of many ages, is in admii-able preservation. But 
 this fine old lordly residence has passed out of the hands of its late noble 
 owner into those of a stranger, the castle and gromids ha-sdng been pur- 
 chased by ;Mr. J. Sadlicr, the present M.T. for Sligo. Equally rich, too, 
 in reminiscences of a glorious past is a somewhat similar, though ruined, 
 structm-e in the neighboui-hood — Ardfinan Castle, as shown in om* beautiful 
 illustration. 
 
 Nothing very particular, as essentially differing from the scenery between 
 Tipperary and Cahii-, invites om- notice betAvcen Cahir and Clonmel, the 
 terminus of om- jircscnt trip. Clonmel, a remarkably fine Irish comity 
 town, beautifully situated under the Commeragh mountains on the Suu", 
 famous in all ages in all sorts of ways, was the focus of fights innumerable 
 in every stage of Irish embroilment, and the principal scene of the rising 
 in '48. Saints uncountable and miaccovmtable were born here, and not a 
 few sinners, of whom perhaps it Avill suffice to name Sterne and Lady Bles- 
 sington, whose errors haA'e at least been gilded by the rarest genius in the 
 one case, and by beauty and accomplishments as rare in the other. Ruins, 
 of course, are in profusion all round, and history and tradition to give them 
 an eternal freshness in the minds of the susceptible people in their vicinity. 
 But oiu" business being ^yiih. the existing moment, we haA'c to state, that 
 Clonmel owes much of its modern prosperity and industrial celebrity to a 
 foreigner, 'Sir. Charles Bianconi, a native of ^lilan, who, about 1800, visited 
 Dublin, and subsequently Clonmel, as a pictui-e-dealer and cleaner and 
 frame-maker, on a very restricted scale, for liis resoiu-ces were exceedingly 
 limited. He saved money, became highly respected, and conceived the idea 
 of running a car, that, at less expense than the stage, might ansAver the
 
 'ill H'i«'>i
 
 142 Tii'n:uAUY to clonmel. 
 
 comparatively liumblc classes. He ran liis fii-st vehicle from Clonmel tO' 
 Oaliii-, July Jth, 1815, and shortly after others to Limerick and Thm-les, 
 Frequently for weeks v>ithout a passenger, liis energy ultimately triumphed, 
 and he has obtauicd a large fortune, while confen-ing immense benelit on 
 the conununity, preserving an u-reproachable character, and gaining the 
 respect of ail classes, as slio\^ai by his repeated election as chief magistrate 
 of C)lonmel. His name is a household word in all L-ish mouths. 
 
 On arriving at Hearne's excellent hotel, Clonmel, a short saunter convinces 
 the stranger that thrift and industry can have then- reward in Ireland 
 as well as in other countries. Clonmel is in the centre of a locality almost 
 miknown to the tom-ist, biit the extension of the Limerick and ^Vaterford 
 Railway, completed to within a half hour's diive of Waterford, opens a ti-act 
 of coimtry fraught with no ordinary scenic attraction. The valley of 
 the Suit', tlu-ough which the rail runs, is one of the most fruitful L-eland 
 can boast. Near Clonmel is Knocklofty, seat of Earl Donoughmore. The 
 river is navigable for lighters of fifty tons to Clonmel ; and there are few 
 prettier landscapes than this prosperous little town presents from the 
 bridge. The old church of St. Mary reflects much credit on those to whoso 
 care it has been entrusted. Near Knocklofty is the neat village of Ardfinan, 
 whose adjacent ruins our artist has so captivatmgly portrayed. The 
 Abbey was founded by St. Finian in the sixth centmy ; the Castle built by 
 King John in the twelfth, and subsequently transferred to the Knights 
 Templars. 
 
 Here the valley of the Suir may be said to commence, as far as it extends 
 between the Knockmeladown and .Galtee mountains, the aspect of which 
 from this point is truly grand. If pressed for time, we might alter oui* 
 com-se altogether, and proceed direct by train from the Limerick Junction, 
 on the Limerick and Waterford Railway, direct to Clonmel. Yet by this 
 course we have no opportmiity of viewing Cashel and its ruins. Still other 
 attractions lie on oui- way, none perhaps so attractive, but when all com- 
 bined rendering the railway route probably the most preferable. LeaA-ing 
 Clonmel, we proceed by rail to the interesting town of Carrick. The train 
 passes through the valley of the Suii', at the base of the huge SHeve na 
 Mon. On the right are the wooded heights of Gurteen. residence of ^Mrs. 
 Power, widow to the step-son of the late R. L. Shiel. Next, Coolnamuck, 
 the fine former residence of the Wall family, and very recently sold in the 
 Encumbered Estates Court, and pm'chased in trust by Mr. Sadlier, the late 
 Irish Lord of the Treastiry. The mountains here offer a pleasing contrast 
 to those in other parts of Ireland, as they seem cultivated to theu- very 
 summits. We now pass the old castles of Powelacui'iy, battered by the 
 artillery of Cromwell's Ironsides ; after a short interval we come to Bally- 
 moran, and many venerable ruins, evidences of the importance attached to 
 tliis locality by the iron-handed marauder and the ambitious invader. The 
 view of Carrick-on-Suir from the railway is truly pleasing, and perhaps it 
 may be regarded in point of position as one of the prettiest towns in 
 Ireland. Descending by a rather steep hill we come to the fail- green, and 
 pass to Phelan's Hotel. Prior to starting for Waterford, let us not fail to 
 view the fine old castle of the Ormonds, built in 1309, and still remaining 
 in the famiLy. The antiqvie bridge, from the right bank of the river just 
 above the weir, presents all that is fantastically eccentric in architcctm-e, 
 the ivied house in the centre imparting to it an air of pleasing novelty. 
 The parish chapel is said to have been bmlt by the Ormonds, and the tower
 
 TH'PERAllY TO WATERFORD. 143 
 
 attached to tlie modern building bears proof of high antiquity. Wc hope 
 tradition speaks " no scandal against Queen Elizabeth," as the guide points 
 out the grave of Thomas Butler, the putative natural son of her maiden 
 Majesty. A short drive brings us to Cm-raglimore (Marquis of Waterford's) 
 and Bessborough, seat of the earl of that name. Near Carrick may be also 
 seen the old church of Donouglmiore, romantically situated on one of the 
 slopes of Slievc na Mon. 
 
 If going by car, on starting from Carrick for Waterford, we leave the 
 demesnes of Tinvara and Tybrochkncy, and the thriving town of Portlaw, 
 two miles from where the enterprising fom of Malcomson Brothers have an 
 extensive cotton factory, in which 1,500 persons are constantly employed. 
 We also pass the beautiful village of Pillto^ai ; and after "leaving the 
 demesne of Bessborough and Fidown chm-ch, and the tomb of the late Lord 
 Bessborough, who died 1846, while Lord Lieutenant ; wc catch a view of the 
 town of Curraghmore on the right, and also the Suir. The fine old rains of 
 Granny Castle, which can be reached by rail from Carrick in little more 
 than an horn-, we leave on om- right, built by Pierce Butler, eighth Earl of 
 Ormond, in 1521, and dismantled by the parliamentary army under Colonel 
 Axtel ill 1649. A mile fui'ther on we see the wooden di-awbridge wliich 
 spans the river, and in a short time enter the city of 
 
 Waterford. — As we di-ive down its fine quay to Dobjni's or Cumming's 
 Hotel, the natiu-al beauty of the place breaks gradually on the observer. 
 Waterford is the fifth city, in point of population and commercial impor- 
 tance, in Ireland ; here Henry II. invaded the country by vii-tue of the bull 
 of Adiian IV. (Nicholas Brcakspeare), the only Englislunan who ever sat 
 on the papal tliione. Here, also, James II. sailed for France after the 
 disastrous campaign of 1690, never to retm-n. The castle and the other 
 remnants of the old fortifications of the citj^, Cromwell's Rock, and some of 
 the p-.iblic buildings, offer agreeable occupation to the tom'ist for the few 
 hour's to which his stay may be limited. Proceeding by well-appointed 
 omnibuses, wliich convej^ us to the Dunkit Station of the Watei'ford and 
 KilkeTiny Railway, we start for "the fair city" of Kilkenny; but, if 
 possible, not without seeing Dunbrody Abbey — easily amved at by one of 
 the steamers wliich ply between AVaterford and Ross — perhaps the most 
 perfect ruins in the country ; it belonged to the Cistercian monks, being built 
 by Henry L)e Montmorency, marshal of Henry II., in 1182. Withui five 
 minutes' walk of the Jerpoint Station stands the glorious old ruin of 
 Jerpoint Abbey, the beauties of which require to be seen to be appreciated, 
 as description is powerless when ha-\-ing to deal with such an amomit of 
 grace and solemn beauty. The Archa?ological Society of Kilkenny arc 
 nobly rescuing this fine relic from the destruction winch awaited it, from 
 the peasantry supplying themselves with stone from its hallowed walls. It 
 was founded by Donagh, King of Ossory ; and the tombs of ecclesiastics 
 and lay members of the Butler family give it no ordinary amount of 
 interest. After passing a few places possessing little interest, we rattle 
 into the ever-famous and beautiful 
 
 Kilkenny, wliich well justifies its renown, possessing architcetm-al 
 beauty, civil and ecclesiastical, not surpassed in Ireland. Standing on the 
 steps of the terminus, we see the vast Limatic Asylum, the tower and steeple 
 of the churches of St. John and St. Mary, the new Catholic chapel at the 
 base of the railway embankment, and the huge proportions of the Catholic 
 cathedi-al in the distance. From this point is also seen that which divides
 
 146 TIPPEllARY TO KILKENNY. 
 
 mth tlic old Cathedral of St. Canico the principal interest of the locality^ 
 " Ormoud Castle," the princely scat of the Butlers ; than Avhich notliing 
 can be finer than the appearance this baronial residence presents, irrespec- 
 tive of its liistoric associations. The gallery possesses many gems of art ; 
 but, perhaps, everything in Kilkenny must yield precedence in the eyes of 
 the artist to the two full-lengths of Charles and Henrietta, taken from 
 life bv Vandyck ; and as we read the fitful fortunes of the house of Ormond 
 in the efRgies of the ill-fated Stuarts, to whose interests it was so closely 
 wedded from Edgchill to the Boyne, we may also see upon the walls a 
 pictorial history of the past 200 years. There are two fine Correggios, and 
 a number of noble portraits. The general features of the interior of this 
 princely home are characteristically superb. Next comes that most perfect 
 of all our ancient ecclesiastical edifices, the Cathedi-al of St. Canice, of which 
 we must leave our artist to convey an idea, for sjoace -Rail permit no 
 description ; and, Avith a recommendation to the tourist to spend as much 
 time ia Ivillvcnny as possible, so as to ^-iew the Dominican, or Black Friary, 
 and a number of other attractions in the neighbom-hood, we now proceed 
 by train on the Irish South-Eastcrn en route for Dublin. Passing the towns 
 of Gowran, Bagnalstown, and ]Milford, we jom the Carlow branch of the 
 Great Southern and Western at Carlow ; and after passing the stations of 
 Magceney and Athy, in the midst of a most beaiitiful country, reach the 
 Kildare station, on the main line, from which point we arrive in Dublin 
 within an houi'. 
 
 The reader, we trust, will clearly understand that the foregoing pages ai'e 
 not offered as a description of the country traversed, and which does not, in 
 reality, at all belong to our scheme of tours ; but as meant merely to afford, 
 by the help of om- illustratious, a s;\moptical glance at what may be seen, 
 should the traveller wish to diverge from the prescribed track of the Exciu'- 
 sionist Tickets. The advertisement of the Watcrford and Kilkenny Railway 
 Company, in oui- introductory pages, supplies some valuable suggestions as 
 to the mode of -vaewing this region expeditiously and economically.
 
 (•,^f<''i Ni III 
 
 J. 2
 
 0li'i^
 
 3 ^ 
 
 w o 
 
 H o
 
 ^^^^ffliiiiiiiJiiiiiiiiiBiiatiiii.^aiiaiBaiB
 
 THIRD TOUR-DUBLIN TO GALWAY 
 
 Few places in the United Kingdom have of late been more familiar to the 
 general ear than the ancient town of Galway, and none associated with 
 better founded hopes of a prosperous future. Much of this is attributable to 
 its capabihty for the exjDected Anglo-American trade ; much to its being the 
 head-quarters of that district to which the prescient eye of the statesman of 
 his age was tiu-ncd, as the som-ce whence the regeneration of Ireland was to 
 be augured. But the chief and real cause is the energy and perseverance 
 of its people — woi'thily led by then- indefatigable representative, Mr. A. 
 O'Flaherty, and liis estimable brother, the Income Tax Commissioner for 
 Ireland, Mr. Edward O'Flaherty, High Sheriff for the county dming the last 
 year, 1853. "V\niile making sanguine but sagacious provision for the coming 
 of that better time which the natm-al resom-ces of theu' geographical position 
 warrant them in calculatmg upon, they have availed themselves of all means 
 immediately within reach. Of these the chief is the Midland and Great 
 Western Railway, dividing the island into two nearly equal portions. The 
 country traversed, as might be cxjjected in 124^ miles, is extremely varied — 
 some districts presenting exquisite landscapes ; others grim and di'cary ; then 
 again, rich and beautiful ; and, approaching Gahvay, the traveller glances at 
 the wild moimtains of the once far west, where, until lately, the king's writ 
 dare not pass. The construction through some bogs seventy feet deep, as 
 between Enfield and Mullingar, was a matter of interest and difiBculty, 
 affording Mr. Hemans, engineer of the line, much scope for his skill. After 
 the passage of the bogs, and the magnificent iron bridge across the Shannon, 
 the next monument of engineering ability is the swivel bridge near Galway, 
 the largest ever built, consisting in one length of 154 feet ; constructed witli 
 two steamboat ways of 60 feet each, leading into the splendid floatmg basin 
 of Lough Athalia. The various stations and the termini, designed and 
 erected hy Mr. Miilvany, are remarkable for architectiu'al excellence, no less 
 than excellent accommodation. 
 
 Before commencing this jom-ney, the reader should tm-n to the first few 
 pages of the route from Dublin to Cork, in wliich are brief notices of the 
 envu'ons of the metropoHs ui the present du'ection.. Immediately on leaving 
 the terminus, we enter a beautiful coiintry, adorned with plantations and 
 numerous villas. We shall suppose the traveller is seated face to the engine. 
 Upon the right is the village of Glasnevin, famous for the residence of 
 TickeU, Swift, Addison, Delany, Steele, Sheridan, and Parnell. Adjoining 
 is the Botanical Garden of the Royal Dublin Society ; and a cemeteiy 
 (visible ft-om the line), the Necropolis, or Pere-la-Chaise, of the Hibernian 
 metropolis, where lie Cm'ran, Steele (the politician of oui" own tune, not of 
 Queen Anne's), O'Connell, and other national celebrities ; and where shortly
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY, 153 
 
 also will lie, we hope, the remains of Moore, towards whose memory a 
 monument, that shall be worthy of the country and the man, is now bein"- 
 subscribed for by all classes of Irishmen, and by many Englishmen too — an 
 example we would earnestly urge upon every one of our readers to follow as 
 liberally as may be ; for though the author of the Melodies belonged essen- 
 tially to his native soil, the genius of " Lalla Rookh " pertains to evei-y 
 country, and is " not for an age, but for all time." The monument we 
 refer to is now being erected by the distinguished comitryman and namesake 
 of the bard, the well-known sculptor, Moore. The statue is to be in bronze, 
 and will be placed in the space in front of College-street, facing the Corin- 
 thian portico of the entrance to the late Irish House of Lords, in Westmore- 
 land-street. Glasncvin is further sacred to the manes of mighty intellectual 
 giants, inasmuch as Tickell, the poet, and friend of Addison (who frequently 
 %-isited liim here, as he did also Steele, who resided at Hanipstead, a short 
 distance), possessed the ground on which the Botanic Gardens now stand; 
 while in the vicinage is Fiiiglass, of which the " Hermit " poet, I'arnell, was 
 vicELY. Close by, lUcewise, is Delville, laid out by Delany, friend of Swift, 
 who here not only wrote but printed some of his most satu-ic lampoons, 
 which none would risk putting in type at a public press. Tliirdly, the 
 Botanic Gardens, already referred to — open Tuesdays and Fridays, and to 
 strangers from a distance every day — are probably unsurpassed in Em-ope, 
 and were greatly admii-ed by the Queen and Prince Albert on the occasion 
 of their late visit. 
 
 Dunsink, astronomical observatory of the Dublin University, residence of 
 Sir W. Hamilton, Astronomer Royal, is on a wooded eminence. The pretty 
 little village of Finglass is on the right, with the house on the adjoining hiU, 
 where James II. slept the niglit before the battle of the Boyne, and tlu-ough 
 this village returned to Dublin, followed by his fortunate rival. The 
 Phoenix Park and Wellington Testimonial can be seen in the distance, on 
 the south. 
 
 Castlcknock is four miles from Dublin. Here are remains of a castle, 
 reign of Henry II., by Hugh TyrreU ; looked upon as of the greatest impor- 
 tance, vuitil about the Restoration, when it decayed. It was taken in 1316 
 by Edward Bruce, and in 16-12 by the famous Colonel INIonk, who, diuing 
 the assault, killed eighty, and subsequently hauged many more, of the 
 unfortunate enemy. 
 
 Lucan, celebrated as gi'ving the title of earl to General Sarsfleld, was 
 formerly a fashionable resort for its spa, and now affords a magnificent view 
 over one of the richest districts in Ireland. In this neighbom-hood are the 
 Strawberry Beds, to which the citizens of Dublin resort in great numbers in 
 the season. The valley of the Liiiey possesses some of the prettiest possible 
 scraps of wood and water scenery. On the left, as we proceed, we come to 
 the hamlet of Blanchavdstown, on the great north-western road from Dublin, 
 containing a nunnery and some schools. Here the line crosses the great 
 north-western road from Dublin, next to Clonsilla, where the canal passes 
 through the " Deep Sinkings," a solid rock nearly three miles in length, and 
 of very considerable depth. Coufey Castle is a ruined tower, similar to 
 several erected by the English colonists of Dublin, to protect the city from 
 the attacks of the native Irish. Adjoining are the ruins of an ancient 
 church. Near this part of the canal a large number of persons were 
 drowned some years since, by a passengei'-boat upsetting. There are few 
 objects of great interest north of the line between Clousilla station and
 
 154 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 
 
 LeixKp. Adjoining the latter, a little nearer Maynooth, the rail and canal 
 cross the valley of the Rye by an embankment 100 feet in height, and, 
 passing some dehghtful scenery of a subdued character, we find ourselves at 
 the pretty town of Lcixlip, where, if possible, the tourist should alight. 
 The castle, still in repair, was erected by Adam Fitz-Hereford, one of the 
 Anglo-Norman conquerors. Its antique towers, mantled with i\y, lisc 
 majestically above the surrounding ti-ees and river ; and, altogether, the 
 views arc, of theu- class, as attractive as any in the kingdom. Immediately 
 adjoining Leixlip is the Salmon Leap, where the Liffey, falling over a ledge 
 of rocks, forms a beautiful cascade, up which the fish at certain seasons ai-e 
 seen to spring ; hence the name. For a proper contemplation of this spot, 
 the tourist should proceed by the pathway by the Paper Mill (left bank of 
 the river), from wMch point alone the best view of the waterfall can be 
 obtained. Following a path leading up the river from the Salmon Leap, the 
 tomist, after a walk of a mile, arrives at Newbridge, where the river is 
 crossed by a bridge erected in 1308 by John Le Decer, Mayor of Dublin, 
 the most ancient structure of its class upon the Lifiey, and — since the 
 desti'uction of Thomond and Athlone bridges, upon the Shannon — perhaps 
 in Ireland. In the vicinity are the monastic ruins of St. AVolstans, founded 
 about 1202 by Adam Fitz-Hereford, consisting of walls, which probably 
 formed the dwelling-houses of the ecclesiastics, and some very perfect and 
 most interesting gateways, bearing all the characteristics of the thirteenth 
 century. The remains of ancient magnificence contrast strangely -with that 
 of modern times, as shown in Castletown House, in the same neighbourhood. 
 This noble residence of the Connolly family is popularly supposed to contain 
 a window for every day in the yeai*. All these places lie so close, that they 
 may be \isited without much loss of time. Between Leixlip and Fernlock, 
 the country is well- wooded, studded with seats, and apparently closed in by 
 the range of the Dublin mountains, affording ^dews varied and beautiful. 
 From near Fernlock, however, the line passes thi'ough a portion of the great 
 Bog of Allen, a dreary tract, contrasting unfavourably with the glorious 
 country just described. This bog was once a forest, covered with trees of 
 largest growth, and probably uninhabited by other than the giant elks, 
 whose bones the turf-cutters often find, or by other vnld animals. Trees 
 are met with at various depths ; and as many lie along the line, they cannot 
 fail to attract attention. At the twenty-fifth mile post, south, may be 
 remarked the ruins of the Chui'ch of Cloncui-iy, a place fi'om which the late 
 lionom'cd nobleman of that name derived his title. Immediately adjoining 
 is a large earthern mound, not uncommon in Ireland, and usually containing 
 sepulchi-al deposits of the primitive inhabitants. 
 
 Returning to Leixhp station, we proceed along the line on our dii'ect 
 journey. In the distance to the right we see Carton, the princely residence 
 of his Grace the Duke of Leinster, in the Grecian style, built about the 
 close of last centmy, from designs by Richard Cassels, architect of Leinster 
 House, now the Royal Dublin Society House, in Kildare-street, DubHn, and 
 site and scene of the Great Exliibition of 1853. The demesne, comprising 
 about 1,000 acres, extends by the side of the railway, separated only by the 
 canal and public road, adorned with lakes made by barriers across the little 
 Rye. We have already spoken of its contents in the southern tour. We may 
 also repeat that her Majesty, in 1849, expressed herself highly pleased 
 %vith the beauty of its natui-al position and the elegance of the internal 
 decorations.
 
 DUBLIN TO GALAVAY. 155 
 
 Maynooth was anciently a cliief hold of the Kildare Fitzgcralds. Of the 
 Castle, erected or rebuilt in 1426 by John, sixth Y.avl, considerable remains 
 exist, viz., a massive keep, which was defended by outworks of great strength 
 and magnitude. Of the towers, placed at intervals along the outer fortifica- 
 tions, several remain in a state to give an idea of the strength of this great 
 Anglo-Norman fortress, often the scene of fierce assault. In the reign of 
 Hemy VIII. it was taken by Sir W. Brereton, but restored, together with 
 the estate (confiscated in consequence of the rebellion of " Silken Thomas"), 
 to Gerald, eleventh Earl, but in the 17th century was suffered to decay. 
 The present noble proprietor, the Duke of Leiuster, is planting the sloping 
 sides of the ancient fosse, now dried up, with trees suitable to the scene. A 
 portion of the vast old castle extends inside the gates of Ma^Tiooth College, 
 which stands at right angles with the front of the ruins. The caretaker is 
 no bad specimen of an Irish expositor of his class ; and the tom-ist may 
 derive, with little trouble, an account of some of the romantic incidents of 
 which this great sti'onghold of the Geraldincs was the scene. The Koyal 
 College of St. Patrick, ^laynooth, was opened for students in 179.5 ; since then 
 many additions have been made, by increased grants. Fm-fher extensive 
 additions ai-e in com-se of erection. Until recently the College contamed 
 only about 450 students, but the accommodation is now much greater ; and 
 there are apartments for professors, a noble hall, and a Hbraiy, besides 
 numerous offices. There is a magnificent cloister in the early English style 
 of architecture. The visitor is at once admitted, on application, with com'tcsy 
 and politeness, and what he will see there is described by Su' F. Head vnth 
 tolerable truthfulness. The parish church is a fine quaint building of the 
 loth centuiy, its windows remarkable for elegance of detail; and there is a 
 massive tower at the west end, used as a belfry, and, no doubt, as a place of 
 refuge in troublesome times. The round tower of Taghadoe, one of the finest 
 in Ireland, lies about two miles south of Mapiooth. 
 
 Nineteen miles from Dublin is Ivilcock, a small market-town on the borders 
 of Comities Meath and KUdai'e, its annual horse-races, for several days, 
 atti-acting many -visitors. We pass Fernlock, where there is Little of interest, 
 save that at the station a coach meets the tram, and conveys passengers to 
 Athboy and 
 
 Trim, the county-town of Meath, which lies about twelve miles from 
 Fernlock, and is full of liighest interest to archaeologist and artist, as well as 
 the general tourist. It fomis the centre of a most attractive district, rich in 
 antiquarian and historic importance and pictorial beauty. Kells, Bective, 
 and Newtown Abbeys, and the hill of Tara, all lie aroimd it ; and though 
 last, certainly not least, Dangan Castle, the bii-fhplace, or at least the early 
 home, of Wellington and WeUesley, is only foui' miles from the town, and 
 Avill, of course, be an object of universal attractiveness, now more absorbmgly 
 than ever, since the demise of the last of the Gracchi, whose name and deeds 
 have made it immortal. We shall give it (p. 204), not as it has been hjiJO- 
 thetically delineated in successive Guide-books for the last quarter of a 
 century, but as it actually stands and looks at this present moment, or at 
 least as it did last year, when di-awn for this volume by Mr. IMahony. Here 
 also was the residence of a scarcely less distinguished Irishman, Laraccr 
 rectory, of which Swift was incumbent, and a portion of Stella's house. The 
 London tom"ist, whom Mr. Thackeray's recent graphic, but not veiy com- 
 plimentary, criticisms upon the Dean may have imbued with a stronger 
 desii'e than that derivable merely fi'om books, to explore the region conse-
 
 156 DUBLIN TO GALWAT. 
 
 crated to the memory of the great sathist's mystic and miserable loves, is 
 strongly recommended to Mr. AYilde's delightful book, frequently alluded 
 to, and to another by the same gentleman, wherein he has made the investi- 
 gation of Swift's alleged madness one of the most charming " psychological 
 curiosities" and interesting medico-metaphysical disquisitions hi any language. 
 Hereabouts, in every direction, the traveller treads upon enchanted ground, 
 and objects of interest of almost every kind people the entire region ; so that 
 we might almost at random stud our pages with illustrations of rehcs of a 
 splendid past, and leave him, nearly at hap-hazard, to meet with the originals, 
 for our space renders it wholly impossil)le that we should attempt any settled 
 tour of route in our enumeration of these subjects, or dwell in detail on those 
 presented. The first of the most conspicuous we now refer to is King John's 
 Castle, founded 1180, by the De Lacy family, the finest remain of Anglo- 
 Norman military architecture in the kingdom, on the south of the Boyne, 
 and enclosing an area of three acres. Next is the tower of St. INIary's 
 Abbey, built by " The Scourge of France," Sh John Talbot, Lord-Lieutenant 
 of Ireland hi 1415 ; the castles of the Nangles ; and Talbot Castle, until lately 
 the Diocesan School of Meath, whereui Welhngton received his earliest 
 education; the parish church, a relic of the 13th century, contaiuing most 
 interesthig monuments ; the town walls, with the two ancient gateways, the 
 Sheep Gate and Water Gate ; an ancient Gothic bridge over the Boyne : 
 and the beautiful monasteries and ancient bridge at Newto-\vii, formerly the 
 seat of the see of Meath. Four miles from Trim, north of tlie Boyne, are 
 ruins of the magnificent Cistercian monastery of Bective, founded in the 
 12th century by Murchard 0']\lelaghlin, king of jNIeath. The hotel at Trim 
 will accommodate the tourist, who might make this the centre fi'om which 
 to visit the scenery of the Boyne, or Kells, eight miles distant, rich in 
 monuments, and possessing three magnificent stone crosses, described else- 
 where. There is no modern building at Trim worthy of especial note, 
 except the County Gaol ; and the tourist, after viewing the Wellington 
 Testimonial, a Corinthian column surmounted by a statue of the Duke, will 
 visit the humble house in Trim wherein for some years resided the future hero. 
 
 Regaining the railway at the Fernlock station, we see— from the 26th 
 mile-post, looking south— in the distance the rvdiied walls of Castle Carbmy, 
 a chief fortress of the Berminghams, from whom it passed to the Cowleys, 
 ancestors of Wellington. The walls are of two disthict ages ; the older, 
 probably a portion of the original castle, erected shortly after the invasion 
 by Henry II. ; the remainder dates from the 16th centmy, built by Sir H. 
 CoUey, or Cowley. In a chapel are several monuments to this family, a 
 member of which, Richard CoUey, succeeding in 1 728 to the estates of his 
 cousin, Garret AVellesley, of Dangan, assumed the arms and name of Wel- 
 lesley. The Hill of Cai-bury is famous for many a fierce encounter between 
 the Anglo-Normans and the Irish, and retains sevei-al remains of pagan 
 antiquity. 
 
 Next station on the line is Enfield, formerly remarkable for its extensive 
 hotel and posting cstabhshment. Next is Edenderry, a post-town, the 
 property of Lord Downshire, admired for the neatness of its houses, good 
 accommodation, and quiet beauty of scenery. In the vicinity are remains of 
 the monastery of Monastororis, built by Pierce de Bermingham, head of a 
 great Anglo-Norman clan, who subsequently became " more Irish than the 
 Irish themselves ;" the Castle of Kinnafad, a massive quadrangular keep, a 
 stronghold of the same people ; and the ruined church and castle of Carrick-
 
 DUBLIN TO GAL\\'AY. 157 
 
 Oris, the scene of the treacherous assassination of Murtagh O'Connor, king 
 of Offaly, and his brother Calwagh, with 29 followers, invited liere to a 
 feast, and slain by Bermingham, in 1305. Hereabouts rises the Boyne, 
 uj)on whose banks " James and William staked a crown." It has its som-ce 
 in the bogs south of Carberry, county of Kildare, and flows to the sea at 
 Drogheda, passing through the towns of Trim and Navan. At l^xlenderry 
 we cross the river, and catch a gUmpse of the church of Clonard, once the 
 seat of the most important see in the east of Ireland. Here, early in the 
 sixth century, St. Finnian founded a monastery, a school ftimous even abroad 
 for religion and literature. Hither, as Bcde" informs us, flocked students 
 fi-om the British isles, Armorica, and Germany, at one time about 3,000. 
 For several centuries Clonard increased in fame ; the pagan Northmen 
 frequently plundered and burned the city, carrying into slavery the in- 
 habitants. Later, it was frequently sacked by the EngUsh, who at length 
 fortified, and, in some measure, rebuilt it. 'in 1206, Simon de Kochfort, 
 first Anglo-Norman Bishop of Meath, removed the see to Newtown, after 
 which it gradually declined ; scarcely a vestige remains, save a magnificent 
 earthwork called a rath, probably the citadel. The modern church contains 
 an antique font of most beautiful workmanship. Adjoining is a mound of 
 pagan times, exactly similar to that at Cloncm-ry. Soon after leaving 
 Enfield, the Une passes through the great Bog of Allen ; nothing but heath 
 for some miles, till in %'iew of Kinncgad Church, some miles south. KlL- 
 DEAN station is a place of little importance at present, but in its neighbour- 
 hood is llatcen Castle, wherein the Lord-Lieutenant, who had been taken 
 prisoner, was confined in M50. The black flagstone quarries have built the 
 Custom-house Docks, Dublin. There is little to attract now till we arrive at 
 MULLIXGAR, an assize town of considerable importance, containing, 
 among other pubhc buildings, a barracks for 1,000 men. The one principal 
 street is a mile in length, fi-om which other streets and lanes branch off. 
 Considerable trade in butter, wool, frieze, cattle, pigs, and horses, is carried on. 
 The horse fair, in November, is attended from all parts of Great Britam and 
 tire Continent. Unhke most inland towns in Ireland, INIullingar contains no 
 ancient remains. In 1227 and 1237, very famous monasteries were founded 
 here by Ralph le Petyt and the Nugent femily. A castle also existed from 
 an early period ; and the town, originally founded by the English of the 
 Pale, was fortified from time to time, lastly by General De Ginkel. The 
 magnificent sheets of water in this neighbourhood have infinite attraction, 
 and fiu-nish the richest sport, being well stored with the finest trout of gi-eat 
 size, pike, and other prev. The drive from Mullingar to Multifarnham, five 
 miles, affords striking picturesque views of Lough Owel, where is the abbey, 
 founded m 1236, by WiUiam de la Mar, or Delamere, for conventual Fran- 
 ciscans, who, until Charles II., had not been expelled by those to whom the 
 abbey was granted at the dissolution of monasteries. Shortly after the cipl 
 war of 1641— the plans for which, it has been said, were settled within its 
 walls— the building was suffered to decay ; and remained a ruin till 1823, 
 when it again fell to the Franciscans, of whom several reside adjoinmg the 
 old church. 
 The canal, which from Dublin to Mullingar runs parallel within a few 
 ards of the railway, at Multifarnham branches oft" in the direction of 
 ^ongford, and for the first time is completely lost sight of. The countiy 
 from this point to Athlone, though but thuily populated, was once the most 
 thickly-inhabited pai't of Ireland, as may be judged from the number of 
 
 E
 
 158 
 
 DL'BLIX TO GALWAY. 
 
 raths, or circular works of earth, upon or within which the dwellings of the 
 ancient Irish were placed. Derrivarra, one of the three great lakes in the 
 vicinity of MuUingar, is left at a short distance to the north. About seven 
 miles fi'oui jMuUingar the line passes through Glamerstown, a wild, hilly 
 disti'ict, wherein is a small circle of stones, about wliich many human bones 
 and sepulclu'al urns have been discovered (particularly diuiiig the construc- 
 tion of this railway), doubtless marking the scene of some long-forgotten 
 battle. 
 
 From Mullingar station a fine view is obtained of Lough Ennel, frequently 
 called Belvidere Lake, from the beautiful residence of the late Earl of Lanes- 
 borough. The lake is four and a-half miles in lenarth bv one and a-half in 
 
 Tr.ria'LACE oi' goldsjuiii. dhawn by jiaho-ny. 
 
 breadth, stored witli iish, the gromids containing some of the finest timber 
 in the country. Near the shore of the lake, is a pile, built at enormous 
 expense to represent a ruined castle. Roclifort House, seat of Sir F. Hop- 
 Icins, Bart., adjoins Belvidere, in the midst of a noble demesne, but has not 
 been occupied by him for some years, he being one day shot at. A man 
 named Bryan Secry was convicted of tliis crime on cu'cmnstantial evidence, 
 and died at ]\IulliTigar, declaring his innocence. This occm-rence led to the 
 abandonment of the ])lace and of the improvements which had promised to 
 make Belvidere one of the finest private residences in the kingdom. 
 
 We next arrive at Streamstowx, a decayed village, between wliich and 
 Moate the line passes through a cutting in the limestone rock of a very con- 
 siderable extent, and, by an embankment, crosses Lake Ballinderry, remark-
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 159 
 
 able for great dcptli in parts, and for the size of its pike and trout. In I80O. 
 during the di-ainage of a portion, were discovered remains of an artificial 
 island, A-ast quantities of bones of extinct races of animals, with various 
 antiquities, chiefly swords and spears ; also canoes, rudely fasliioned, cut out 
 of a single tree. 
 
 The Deserted Village. — Here again is enchanted ground, every inch 
 of which, to be fittingly described, would need the genial pen and congenial 
 spirit of him to whom the latest and best biographer has so fittingly and 
 feelingly inscribed the " Life and Adventures of Oliver Goldsmith." * 
 Referring to that delightful book for aU and everything about inunortal 
 Noll, inexorable space, and the harder utilitarian necessities of a railway 
 finger-post — for our little volume aspires to be no more — compel us pro- 
 saically to say that 
 
 Auburn lies a few miles north of the line, from MuUingar to Athlone by 
 BallATnahon. Its name origmally was Lislioy ; and in the immcdiatt- 
 vicinity is the ruin of the parsonage of the poet's father,! the original 
 " Vicar of Wakefield," whose sou was here born. Mr. Maliony visited the 
 place for us in April, 1853, and his graceful pencil testifies that " the never- 
 faihng brook, the busy mill," are at work as of old. " The decent cluu'ch '' 
 still tops the neighbom'ing hill. Close to the ruuied parsonage is the ale- 
 house kno\%ai as " The Three Pigeons," where 
 
 Village statesmen talked with looks profound, 
 Wliile news much older than their ale went round. 
 Of 
 
 The hawthorn tree with seats beneath, a shade 
 For talking age and whispering lovers made, 
 
 no vestige remains, though the sjjot Avhere it is said to have grown is well 
 remembered, and stiU pointed out. This tree was sold long ago, bit by bit, 
 
 * TO CHARLES DICKEXS. 
 
 Genius and its rewards are briefly told : 
 
 A liberal nature and a niggard doom, 
 
 A difficult journey to a splendid tomb. 
 New-writ, nor lightly weighed, that stoiy old 
 
 In gentle Goldsmith's life I hero unfold ; 
 Through other than lone wild or desert-gloom, 
 In its mere joy and pain, its blight and bloom. 
 
 Adventurous. Come with me and behold 
 
 O friend with heart as gentle for distress, 
 As resolute with fine wise thoughts to bind 
 The happiest to the unhappiest of our kind, 
 That there is fiercer crowded misery 
 In garret-toil and London loneliness 
 
 Than in cruel islands 'mid the far-ofl" sea.— JoHX Forster. 
 
 t The Rev. Charles Goldsmith was a Protestant clcrgj-man, with an uncertain, 
 stipend, which, with the help of some fields he farmed, and occasional duties he per- 
 formed for the rector of an adjoining parish, who was uncle to his wife, averaged 
 £40 a-year. A new bii-th was but a new burden ; and little dreamt that humble 
 village preacher, then, or ever, that from the date of that 10th November, 1728, on 
 which his Oliver was bom, his own virtues and very foibles were to be a legacy of 
 pleasure to manv generations of men. For they who have loved, laughed, and wept, 
 with the Man in^ Black of " The Citizen of the World," the Preacher of " The 
 Deserted Village," and Doctor Primrose in " The Vicar of Wakefield," have given 
 laughter, lo\e, and tears, to the Rev. Charles Goldsmith. — Forster's Life and Adventures 
 of Oliver Ookhmith, 1848.
 
 160 
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 
 
 1 
 
 1 the 1 
 
 to tourists ; but we have Mr. Mahony's unerring evidence, that within 
 last few months the apple-tree in the garden of the vicarage was in the 
 enjoyment of a lusty and vigorous old age, as will be readily inferred from 
 our little sketch. 
 
 APPLE-TEEE IN GOLDSMITHS GARDEN. 
 
 Alack ! however, for the romance of topography, we have all this while 
 been assisting the reader to the perpetration of the Irishism of being in a 
 different place altogether, as he will soon see from Mr. Forster's pages : — 
 
 " Beautifully is it said by Campbell, that ' fiction in poetry is not the 
 
 Goldsmitli's Village Ale-house — the " Three Jolly Pigeons " — with Coffey, the 
 Guide, pointing out " the Hawthorn bush with seats beneath the shade." 
 
 reverse of tinith, but her soft and enchanted resemblance ; and this ideal 
 beauty of nature has seldom been united with so much sober fidelity as in 
 the groups and scenery of the Deserted Village.' It is to be added that 
 everything in it is English, the feeUngs, uicideuts, descriptions, and allusions;
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 
 
 161 
 
 and that this consideration may save us needless trouble in seeking to identify 
 sweet Auburn with Lissoy. Scenes of the poet's youth had doubtless risen 
 in his memory as he wrote, mingling with, and taking altered hue fi'om, 
 
 "auburn, loveliest village Ulr' lUE PLAIN." 
 
 "the NEVER-FAILING BROOK — THE BUSY MILL." 
 
 later experiences : it is even possible he may have taken the first hint of his 
 design fi-om a local Westmeath poet and schoohnaster, who, in his youth, 
 had given rhj-med utterance to the old tenant grievances of the Iiish rural 
 
 M
 
 162 
 
 DUBLIN TO GAL^VAY. 
 
 population ; nor could complaints that were also loudest in those boyisLt 
 days at Lissoy, of certain reckless and unsparing evictions by which one 
 General Naper had persisted in improving his estate, have passed altogether 
 jfrom Goldsmith's memory. But there was nothing local in his present aim; 
 or if there was, it was the rustic Ufe and rural scenery of England. It is 
 quite natm'al that Irish enthusiasts should have found out the fence, the 
 fui'ze, the thorn, the decent chm-ch, the never-failing brook, the busy mill ; 
 it was to be expected that pilgrims should have borne away eveiy vestige of 
 the fii'st hawthorn they could lay their hands on ; it was perfectly reasonable, 
 and in the way of business, to rebuild the village inn, as Mr. Hogan did, 
 
 -^^^ 
 
 "the decent cKURcn TiLVT toi'p'd the >-eighbouri>{g hill." 
 
 and fix broken tea-cups in the wall, that pilgrims might not cany them 
 away, and to christen his speculation by the name of Auburn." 
 
 The country, from Auburn to Athlone, is not remarkable. The toui-ist, 
 stopping at Athlone, should not fail to make an excursion upon the mag- 
 nificent Loiigh llee, an expansion of the Shannon. Quaker Island, in that 
 portion of Lough Rec included witliin Coimty Longford, contains some most 
 interesting primitive ecclesiastical remains ; and the ancient Anglo-Xorman 
 castle of Samt John's, eight miles from Athlone, on the Roscommon side, 
 would amply repay a visit. It Avas erected in 1227 by Geofii-cy de Marisco, 
 and Turlogh, son of Roderick O'Connor, king of Connaught. and has often 
 changed hands, and been frequently stormed and bm'ut by Irish as well as 
 English. Lough Ree is an admirable field for the angler, containing the 
 finest salmon, pike, perch, and other fish, some trout weighing nearly twenty 
 poxmds. Notluug further need now detain us till we reach
 
 JI 2
 
 164 
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAT. 
 
 
 THLONE, an important trading town and military- 
 station, on the Shannon, which here separates 
 Leinster and Connaught, and the counties of "Wcst- 
 meath and Roscommon. The castle, of which 
 Lover's fine view is taken from the railway, is of 
 great antiquity, but in perfect repair, strengthened 
 with additional fortifications, some very recent. 
 Once Athlone was the chief pass from Leinster to 
 Connaught ; and, soon after the settlement of the 
 Anglo-Normans, became one of their strongholds. 
 Of the ancient walls portions remain ; and the 
 north gate, a square tower of Elizabeth's time, was 
 pulled down only a few years ago. Several rehcs 
 are still preserved, one being the doorway of the 
 residence of General de Ginkcll at the siege in 
 1689, and is represented in the foregoing initial 
 letter. The renowned bridge of Athlone, which 
 spanned the Shannon at the jilace of the ancient 
 ford, rendered famous by the desperate encounter 
 upon it between the army of King James, imder 
 St. Ruth, and King "NVilHam's soldiers, under 
 Ginkell, in 1691, was pulled down a few years ago, 
 and replaced by the present graceful structui'e. 
 The barracks, adjoining the castle, can accommo- 
 date 267 artillery, 592 infantry, and 107 horse; 
 and there is an armouiy of 15,000 stand of arms. 
 Of nvmierous monasteries, scarcely any remains 
 exist ; probably they were destroyed dui'ing some of the many sieges, the 
 most memorable of which occm-red in the Revolution, when in ten days 
 Ginkell, in taking a portion of the town which held out for James, expended 
 12,000 cannon-balls, 600 shells, many^ tons of stone-shot, and fifty of powder ; 
 the loss of the defenders being 1,200. In 1697 the citadel was stnick by 
 lightning, when 260 barrels of powder, 10,000 charged hand-grenades, 
 besides other combustibles, exploded, destroying nearly the whole of the 
 town. Besides the chui'ch of the Establishment, and several Roman C'athohc 
 chapels, Athlone contains Baptists' and Primitive and ^A^esleyan ISIethodists' 
 chapels. There are no modern buildings worthy of pai'ticular notice. Imme- 
 diately above the town the Shannon exiiands into Lough Ree, on which a 
 regatta is held in August. 
 
 A sail down the Shannon in any of the fine steamboats belonging to the 
 Shannon Navigation Company is a delightful trip ; and if the tom-ist wish, 
 he may here diverge from his direct route to Gahvay, and proceed down the 
 river to Limeiick, thence on to Tarbert, Tralcc, and Killarncy. The Shan- 
 non scenery from Athlone to Linierick is in one place rocky and desolate ; in 
 another, rich and exquisitely-wooded banks ; here the waters expand into an 
 inland sea, so great is their extent, in some instances measming in breadth 
 ten or twelve miles. For those who may not have much time, and who 
 would wish, neverthless, to cany away some idea of the general appearance 
 of the Shannon, &c., we would specially recommend a visit to Clonmacnoise, 
 six miles by water from Athlone, and where boats may be hii-ed. In the 
 sixth centuiy, St. Kefran the younger, who had received from Dermot 
 MacCervail, king of Ireland, a grant of the site, founded here a monastery,
 
 DUBLIN TO GAL WAT. 165 
 
 whither came students from Great Britain, and, as at Clonard, fi-ora the 
 continent. Clonmacnoise declined soon after tlic arrival of the English; 
 who did not tQl Elizabeth's time remove the bells from the church towers. 
 The ruins comprise the walls of seven churches of the liighest antiquity ; 
 two very perfect round towers ; a mcdia>val castle, within the bounds of a 
 great pagan rath ; two most beautiful sculptured crosses ; besides inscribed 
 stones, from the seventh and eighth century downwards. The ruins are in 
 King's County; the counties of Westmeath, Roscommon, and King's 
 County, meeting at a point in the Shannon, nearly midway between Athlone 
 and Clonmacnoise. 
 
 On the dii-ccfe line to Gal way there are few things to arrest us between 
 Athlone and Ballinasloe, except the fine viaduct over the Suck, across wliich 
 the train passes. Ballinasloe, a town of considerable size, partly in County 
 Roscommon, but chiefly in County Galway, containing some handsome 
 buildings, and remarkable for the great fiiir held from the 5th to 9th October, 
 the largest cattle mart in the kingdom; attended from all parts of Great 
 Britain and the continent. Garbally, seat of Lord Clancarty, in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of the town (liis lordship is proprietor), is beautifully laid out, 
 and the house contains some fine pictm-es, and free access is generously 
 granted to both. The ruins of a castle, of great strength in Elizabeth's 
 time, are situated upon the Roscommon side of the Suck, and the fosse and 
 several flanking towers remain. Four miles from Ballinasloe is the village 
 of Aughrim, remarkable fi'om the battle on the adjoining fields of KU- 
 comraadan, in 1G91, between James and William, when the former was 
 totally routed, and St. Ruth, liis general, killed. However, the point from 
 which the tom'ist should start for the scene of tliis great and decisive conflict 
 is Athlone ; and it has been the cause of much wonderment that Mr. 
 Creasey did not give this hand-to-hand fight precedence to his namesake 
 (the battle). A very little consideration would have shown him that 
 Aughrim was not a fight merely 'twixt James and William, but between the 
 rival religions — between despotism and constitutional liberty, and which, if 
 lost by William, would probably have prevented us now sapng what we 
 thought of the matter. A part of the ruins of Aughrim Castle can stUl be 
 ti'aced ; and in the \Tllage are a church, chapel, and small Methodist 
 meeting-house. 
 
 The next object of interest we meet is Kilconnel, a village where a monas- 
 tery for Franciscan friars was founded about 1460. Nearly the entire shell 
 of this most beautiful structure remains. A little fuilher on we come to 
 Athenry, a village also most remarkable for its ancient biuldings, of which 
 the castle, built in the thirteenth century by the De Bermingham family, is 
 the most perfectly preserved. The Dominican Abbey is, perhaps, one of the 
 finest ecclesiastical ruins in the vrhole country. 
 
 Besides the castle and its religious houses, the old town retains a great 
 portion of its wall, and one of its ancient castellated gateways. The former, 
 which is of considerable height and thickness, is defended at intervals by 
 round towers of great strength. 
 
 We have now almost accomplished our journey to Galway, near the 
 seventh mile-post from which we pass the ruined Castle of Deriydonnell ; 
 and from about the trwenty -first, we see Oranmore Castle, built by the great 
 Earl of Clanricarde. The splendid swivel bridge at Lough Athalia, said to 
 be the largest in the world, next arrests attention, when the tourist finds 
 himself before the magnificent railway terminus and hotel of the ancient
 
 1G8 DUIiLlX TO GALWAT. 
 
 town of Galway, tho head-quarters for all tourists making the joui-ney into 
 the regions of Connemara. 
 
 Town of Galway. — As wc said at the beginning of this tour, Galway, 
 the western metropolis of Ireland, is full of interest. Situated upon the 
 finest Atlantic harbovu', and connected by rail with all parts of the Idngdom, 
 it is destined to a;isume a proud position among the ports of the British 
 empire. Of its history, before the arrival of the English, little is linown. 
 In 1132, the castle was levelled by Connor, king of ^lunstcr, and again in 
 1149. In the thirteenth century it was strengthened by walls and towers, 
 and soon grew to rival Limerick. In 1396 a charter was granted, and a mint 
 established. It continued to flourish tUl about the close of the sixteenth 
 centmy, when its trade appears to have died out. There are many points 
 possessing peculiar attraction for the antiquarian, the liistorian, the politician, 
 and the artist. Numberless old buildings to interest the first; historical 
 associations to engage the attention of the second ; memorials and passing 
 scenes to set on the qui vive the thmking powers of the third ; and ever- 
 changing views, at almost e\crj street-end, to rivet the eye of the fourth. 
 Among the few modern buildings, the mcst conspicuous is Queen's College, 
 and is distinguished, among many other characteristics, by having for its 
 librarian the venerable James llardiman, "^'i'hose labom-s in familiarising the 
 reading vrorld with the archtrological glories of the noble old town that 
 claims him as one of its v/orthicst citizens, have justly endeared liim to his 
 countrymen in particular, and to the republic of letters generally. ^\ ha,t the 
 Hev. Mr. "VVliite has done for the natural history of Selborne, ]Mr. Hardi- 
 man has accomplished for the civic history of Galway — he has left nothing 
 untold; and vrliat he has told, has never been so avcII told before. Half the 
 labour of his life has been exhausted on legal antiquities for the legislature, 
 and the other half has been devoted to a work of love — the resuscitation of 
 the antiquarian treasures of liis country. His " Irish Minstrelsy " compK- 
 ments his taste ; liis " History of Galway" establishes his erudition. Fortu- 
 Eiately, Queen's College is now profiting by his personal services. From 
 him we learn, cuA'iously enough, what Gahvay anciently was. Looldng out 
 Hpon the Atlantic, from its harbour, a ship could sail right on for Spain, 
 "which supplied the wine the Irish chiefs loved, while Ireland cm'ed pork and 
 butter best, for warm climates and the West Indies ; and a profitable trade 
 was the consequence. Strength fii'st offered security to merchants, and 
 consequent wealth augmented the capacity to protect. High waUs and 
 strong gates forbade the approaclx of the " cruel O'Flahertys," whom the 
 legends on theu- portals denounced ; and the citizens, who delighted fo record 
 on then- tombs the fact of their being " real Englishmen," made a history 
 and a prosperity for themselves. They often found it more convenient to 
 buy the enemy oft' than fight them. Athenry, the English capital of the 
 province, more bold, was less fortunate ; and its remarkable ruins, fom-teen 
 miles distant, tell the story of its greatness and its fall, as we have seen } 
 whilst Galway still flourislies, a pleasant town, and a hopeful mart of trade. 
 Tho impress of Spain is still upon the place, for the houses and the customs 
 are Spanish. It was night when we arrived (says the chi'omcler of the 
 party, of which Lover and Liebig were two), and strolling out with a foreign 
 gentleman and a Liverpool friend, from KUroy's Hotel, we were surprised to 
 fmd the principal street full of plcasm-e-seeking people at eleven o'clock ! It 
 is the same here as at Seville ; the " mall " was crowded Avith all classes, 
 Qperatives and ladies, gentlemen, " half-sirs," and " spalpeens." They were
 
 ill i'li'
 
 168 
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAT. 
 
 right merry and audibly happy. Inglis, Lord John Manners, and Sir F. 
 Head, three travellers well conversant with Spanish usage, testify strongly 
 to this Iberian similitude, of which, indeed, the Galwagians ai-e not a little 
 proud. 
 
 Anciently Galway was more prosperous than at present. The old bmld- 
 ings show this. The houses of the Lynches and the Blakes remain to testify 
 to a prudent pursuit of wealth — ^the dwelling, store, and counting-hoiise, 
 being in juxtaposition. Elaborate carving demonstrates taste and pride ; 
 and the marbles of the vicinity enabled the architect to impart strength, 
 durability, and grandem' to the merchant's home. The obtrusion of the 
 gable end on the street is peculiarly Spanish ; but it must be confessed that 
 the modern houses, with plate-glass windows, indicate an improvement in 
 taste and comfort. In brief, there is no to%vn in Ireland vrith so decided a 
 promise about it, and certainly not one with as gi'eat capacity for advance- 
 ment. It is the capital of Connaught j and although Connaught is poor, 
 
 GALWAT BAT AND LIGHT-HOFSE. DRA'KTf BT MAHOXT. 
 
 still a capital is something. Then there is a prodigious motive-power in 
 the town ; Lough Corrib can turn some hundred under-shot wheels, and 
 suitable manufactures will soon, we trust, call them into operation. Labour 
 is cheap, and the people have infinite intelligence, if rightly interrogated. 
 
 At present, the people of Galway anticipate much from their harbom*; it 
 is, indeed, a fine one : the royal commissioners libelled it, for it can ac- 
 commodate the " Great Britain." This, and others with it, will enter 
 Galway Bay when there is trade for them, and that will not be long coming, 
 according to all present appearances. A packet-station established, manu- 
 factures would assuredly suggest themselves, even if they did not lead the 
 way. Galway is, therefore, right in contending for the appointment of a 
 packet-station, and a packet-station in some form it will be. Just now, 
 perhaps, news come quick enough from the United States ; but let there be a 
 transatlantic war or an insurrection, let Russia make good her threats of 
 plundering our Austrahan merchantment in the Pacific, and even the
 
 OLD DOOR PORCH AT GALTVAT. DRAWN BT MAHONT.
 
 170 
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 
 
 swiftest ships of Colliiis or Cunard will be considered as tedious as a hag 
 that limps as she moves. A stoppage at Galway will then relieve anxiety 
 by two long days. A telegraph to Dublm, aheady established, across the 
 Channel, and on to London [long in operation], will tell Lord Aberdeen what 
 has been done in Quebec or New' York seven days after the transaction. In 
 England we never anticipate ; we Avait upon events ; but, when the exi- 
 gency arrives, we stii' oui'selves. When things unpleasant take place on 
 the other side of the Atlantic, Galway will be a packet-station, or at least 
 some port will be on tlie south-west shores of Ireland. 
 
 We have said that Galway has been equally fortunate in its historian 
 as he in his theme. The •' City of the Tribes " is as unlike any other place 
 in Ireland as Chester is any' in England ; and perhaps there is greater 
 similarity between these two spots at the opposite extremes of oui- tour than 
 could be found if the respective countries were seai'ched fi'om one end to the 
 other for a parallel. The slightest glance at Galway suflBccs to show how 
 
 PATRICK o'fLAHERTT. 
 
 GAiW^AT FISHEEWCMAJf. 
 
 prominent and distinctive is that foreign aspect which all travellers have 
 imniediatciy recognised, not only in its ai'chitectm'al, but ui its human 
 featui'cs. For instance, it might readily be imagined that Mahony's street 
 view was taken on the shores of t!:e ilcditcrrauean or the Bay of Biscay. 
 And who can dovibt that the hiunan corresponds with the arcliitcct'ural 
 aspect of the place, when looking upon Lover's delineation of one of the 
 ithierant street celebrities, long familiar to most of the inhabitants of that 
 city, but now dead ? Or take Lover's specimen of the opposite sex — one of 
 the fisherwomen of the Cladagh, a district as peculiar in Galway as Galway 
 itself is peculiar to Ireland. Might not those Arab-"\isaged beings be the 
 actual effigies of some gipsy instrument in one or other of the dark and 
 rcmantic deeds of other days and other climes, which the old structures 
 all around are continually prompting reminiscences of, and some of which 
 indeed have witnessed tragedies as thrilling as any the annals of the Moor 
 or the Andalusian supply ? One of those edifices, in particular, is always 
 pointed out as pre-eminent, the occm-renccs of which it was the principal
 
 EU3LIN TO GALV,-AY. 171 
 
 theatre having been repeatedly appropriated by the fictionist and the 
 dramatist, and of com-se by the local annalist. It is connnonly called 
 LjTich's lionse ; * but the incidents whence it derives that appellation we 
 must leave the reader to gather on the spot, ■which he may do with very 
 little trouble, for all the men of the West are full of the data on which 
 is founded the " Warden of Galway." Without dwelling on that peculiar 
 district of Galway called the Ciadagh, sacred to the fishermen, and governed 
 in a great measure by their own lav.s and observances, Ave must Imgcr no 
 longer in tliis fine and famous old tovv-n and prosperous new one, but must 
 hurry off to that noble land of promise on whose confines it is situate, and 
 of vrhose speedy well-doing its own is, v>'e trust, assuredly significant. 
 
 Routes to Connemara froji Galv/ay. — Entering now upon the 
 strange and beautiful region of Connemara, we must prepare om- readers 
 with a summary of the means of getting there. A stage-car starts eveiy 
 morning at nine for Clifden, through Oughterard and Ballinahmch, and 
 arrives at Clifden at four ; fare 7s. 6d. This route commands a view of the 
 finest momitain scenery, and passes through the entire length of the Martin 
 estates, lately puixhased by the Law Life InsiU'ancc Company, for £180,000, 
 but now in the Encumbered Estates Court, as the company have certainly 
 not reaUsed either their own expectations or those of the public, especially 
 as embodied in the speech of Lord Chief Justice Campbell, the head of the 
 association, to his tenantry at Moycullen last year. At Clifden there is a 
 good imi and moderate charges ; post-ears and carriages, 8d. per Irish mile. 
 A two-horse long car, from Clifden for Westjjort thi'ee times a week, i)asses 
 by the lately-coioniscd English settlements of Mr. James Ellis (brother of 
 the member for Leicester) ; Mr. Eastwood (one of the earliest of the new 
 English settlers, and so eulogised by Sir R. Peel), &c. &:c. ; the latter near 
 Lake Kylemore, where is a good inn, kept by a clergyman. You now pass 
 KUlery Bay, reckoned the very finest momitain scenery in Ireland, where 
 are several settlements, schools, Sec, worth a visit. The next place of much 
 interest to the toui-ist is Westport— a large town, with inns and hotels as 
 good as in J3ublin, and our recommendation of which last year produced such 
 an influx of visitors as seriously to ruiilc the equanimity of the generally 
 imperturbable Sir Francis Head. Next is the superb demesne of Lord 
 Sligo, lying between the town and Clew Bay, and open to all visitors. 
 Clew Bay, famous in conunon with many others on the west coast of 
 Ireland, as being reputed to contain 3(35 islands, affords so beautiful a pros- 
 pect, that all tourists are enraptured with it. 
 
 There is no public conveyance from ^Vestport to Achill, but good post- 
 cars can be had at ^V"estport and Newport (six miles between) for 8d. per 
 Irish mile, the flax-mills lately established at the latter place being an 
 object of interest to the visitor. Achill Sound is 17 miles; there cars and 
 horses and ponies can be had, and ferried over (100 yards) for use in the 
 islands. Thence to the missionary settlement, being uiue miles from the 
 
 * When James Lynch Fitz-Stcphen was T.Iayor of Gahvay, iu 1493, his son, a fine 
 young man, stung with rage and jealousy at the .supposed illtcntion^ of hJs friend, a 
 Spanish gentleman, towa-ds a beautiful young lady to whom he was affianced, one 
 fatal evening plunged his poniard into the bosom of his friend, and threw the body 
 into the river, lie gave himself \ip as the murderer. The father, like another 
 Brutus, sat in juagmcut on his only son, and condemned him to die as a victim due 
 to public ju'^tice. 'J he memento mori over the door bears the date of 1G24, when 
 Lynch's old house is said to have been rebuilt as it now stands.
 
 172 DUBLIN TO GAL WAT. 
 
 Sound, and for various reasons well worth, a visit. There is an inn at the 
 colony, and also some shops. A mail-coach starts from Galway every day, 
 passing through Shi'ule, Castlebar, and Westport, to Sligo. A day-coach 
 also runs the same as the mail. All information as to charges, &c., may be 
 had at ]Mr. Biancoui's office, Broadstone, or at Galway, and on no accoimt 
 should the traveller omit making full inquiries preparatory to his progress 
 from either point. 
 
 CoNNEMARA AND THE WiLD West. — This time two years, when intro- 
 ducing the tourist to Conncmara, it was necessary to preface om' chapter 
 with somewhat minute particulars as to the mere whereabouts of the place, 
 so completely unknown was it to the herd of summer travellers in Ireland. 
 Now, fortunately^ it is as familiar at least as Wicklow used to be a dozen 
 yeare ago. We are most happy to say, that comparatively few who 
 availed themselves of the Excm-sion Tickets of the last two years failed 
 to penetrate into this beautiful region, and still fewer to return unim- 
 pressed with the truthfulness of the description we gave, not only of its 
 scenic charms, but of its capabilities for agricultui-al and even commercial 
 purposes, of wliich advantage has been taken to such an extent, tlu'ough. 
 the medium of the Encumbered Estates Coui't, and private puix-hases, 
 that nearly the whole proprietary has been changed — and the owners 
 and even tillers of the soil here stamp the " Saxon in Ireland" to a 
 degree unsurpassed even among the Loudon Companies in the North. The 
 fii'st impulse to English travelling in Comiemara was undoubtedly given by 
 IngliSf whose description of the Titanic ftimily of the Joyces, and of Miss 
 Flpm — that magniiicent creature, the daughter of the hostess, with fine, 
 expressive, and somewhat aristocratic face, and a form of perfect symmetry ;" 
 in short, the finest sj)ecimcn of an Irish girl he had seen in all Ireland — 
 set travellers on the qui rive to behold the land of such phenomena. This 
 was in 1834. Only two years afterward, Mr. Barrow, whose description of 
 Conncmara is, perhaps, the very best portion of his admirable " Tour Round 
 Ireland," found Big Jack Joyce preparing to enlarge his hostlcry for 
 increased visitors consequent upon the publication of Inglis's book. But 
 even then, the feelings with which a trip to the romantic Killeries was 
 regarded may be inferred from the conversation reported by Barrow : — 
 " After dimier Joyce and I had an agreeable tefe-d-tete. One of the first 
 subjects he discussed was, the di-ead that our countrymen seem to have of 
 travelling tkrough Conncmara. He said he really believed that all who 
 had gone thi'ough his country (speaking of strangers) expected to have 
 their thi-oats cut, and asked me if I had entertained no fears myself. I told 
 him none whatever, but admitted that my friends in England had cautioned 
 me not to enter his country alone. This amused Joyce amazingly, observ- 
 ing, that he supposed the people of England thought them all savages ; but 
 he hoped now that, for the last two or three years, the ice had been broken, 
 his countrymen would be better known. I found that in the present year 
 one of my friends, the Rev. Edward Stanley [afterwards Bishop of Nor- 
 wich], and in 1834 another, Mr. Greig, had paid him a A-isit; he spoke in 
 high terms of both these gentlemen, and said he should always be proud of 
 recei-ving Englishmen in his house. I can only say, fi'om the short experi- 
 ence I have had, that in no part of the country have I met -with people 
 more harmless or better disposed ; and on his questioning me closely as to 
 the treatment I had experienced, and what I thought of his countrymen, I 
 told him they appeared to me an vmcommonly fine race of men, very good-
 
 174 
 
 DUBLIN TO GALV.AY. 
 
 htimoiircd, and extremely respectful and polite in their behaviour to 
 strangers ; that all I had met, few enough it miLst be admitted, moved their 
 hats as they passed me on the road, a mark of respect rarely paid (as I have 
 observed in every countiy through which I have travelled) in the neigh- 
 boiu-hood of large to-\vns. Joyce seemed to think it odd that these parts 
 should so long be held in such ill-repute, and supposed it could only be 
 owing to certain parties wishing to keep folks away from it, by giving it a 
 bad name ; but he was glad to find that a change was fast taking place." 
 
 Mr. Bari-ow's book dissipated the di'cad his gigantic host had deplored, 
 and largely augmented the influx for which Joyce had then begun to 
 prepare. Gradually the tide increased ; receiving a strong accession in 
 1843, when the Anglo-reading public heard, from an accredited author, not 
 
 THIXXTE PUnSUIT OF THE PICTURESSVi: IN COXXAVGHT. 
 
 given to simulated raptm-es, of the multitudinous charms of that panorama 
 of wliich ^Ir. Thackeray remarks :— " The Clifden car conducts the passenger 
 over one of the most wild and beautiful districts that ever it is the fortune 
 of a traveller to examine. At how much pains and expense honest English 
 cockneys go and look after natural beauties far inferior in countries which, 
 though more distant, are not a whit more strange than this one." This 
 applied to the mere ordinaiy mail road, and did not imply a necessity for 
 the least de-v-iation fi-om the beaten track, in the manner indicated in the 
 accompanjdng sketch. 
 
 It is needless to say that the famine put an almost total stop to pleasure 
 traffic in Ireland in general, and in the 'West in xjai-ticular. Still it was the 
 inmicdiate incentive for the exploration and subsequent colonisation of the 
 disti-ict by those pioneers of every good work, the Society of Friends, who
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 17 J 
 
 have done wonders in the way of prudential benevolence and pubHc spirit — 
 or rather miracles, as they ouglit to be called, considering the impediments 
 thrown in their way — as described by Miss ^lartincau, viz. : — 
 
 " What a pity it is that the Quakers cannot purchase in tlie Encumbered 
 Estates Court ! Everybody is sorry ; they would make so admirable a class 
 of purchasers! But the arrangement about tithes precludes their buying 
 those estates. Can nothing be done about this ? It has been very striking- 
 to us that the one opinion in which wc have found sensible, benevolent, 
 well-informed, practical men most earnestly agreeing, throughout tiic length 
 and breadth of the land, is this— that the best hope for Ireland lies in the 
 settlement of British capitalists, who shall pay wages in cash, make no 
 inquiry into any man's religion, do justly, lead a quiet life, and leave others 
 in peace and quiet. This is the very description of the Quaker settlers 
 already here. INIust the passage hither through the Encmnbered Estates 
 Com-t be closed against them alone ? " 
 
 We rejoice to believe that our little book has been the means of effecting 
 immense good by calling — we may say general — attention to the practical 
 suggestions thrown out in the admirable letter addi-csscd to the originator 
 of the Tourist Ticket System by Mr. F. Tv>4ning (a near relative of the 
 eminent London banker, of the same name), wlio has been one of the most 
 conspicuous of all the Anglo-colonists in Conncmara. He then said, writing 
 from Cleggan : — " The difficulty is in accommodation, for there is a total want 
 of hotels, situated in picturesque spots on the sea-coast, which is the most 
 attractive part of the scenery here. At the hotel in Clifdcn, though you 
 may be made comfortable, that is not what tourists only want. Thev get 
 enough of towns, probably, at home, lletirement, with sea-bathing,' and 
 boating, and fishing, are what they require. I think the favourite route 
 into Connemara, when the navigation is completed, will be by steamer from 
 Gal way, up Lough Corrib, to .Maume, and there should be a good hotel 
 cither there or at the Killerics (Leenanc), seven miles on, Avhich, being on 
 the main road between Clifdcn and Westport, and beautifully situated on 
 the sea-shore, and in the immediate vicinity of the highest mountains, is a 
 very important spot. Duncan's Hotel, at Kylemore, is comfortable for 
 gentlemen, but there is a want of private sitting-rooms, or requisite comforts 
 for ladies. From Ivjlcmore, all along the coast of Balh^lakill Bay to 
 Cleggan Bay, a most pictm*esque ride, till you come to Clifdcn, there is no 
 hotel or house to be let. The road round by Cleggan Bay is a detour from 
 the main road, of about four miles ; it is passable for a car, in fine weather, 
 and I hope to get it perfectly fuiished next year. The view from Cleggan 
 Tower is extremely fine on a clear day, and there are curious caves in the 
 cliffs. I am certain there is no better speculation than builchng hotels and 
 bathing-lodges in this part of the country ; and I am sure landlords wculd 
 give every encouragement to the undertaking. I foj-got to say the hotel at 
 Maume, though small, is very comfortable." As the little momitain snug- 
 gery, just named, is one repeatedly alluded to in the text, we have introduced 
 om- readers to it, or rather to its immediate approach, without waiting their 
 arrival at its precise whereabouts in due com'se. Several of the suggestions 
 thrown out by Mr. Twining have already been acted upon, and others are 
 being followed up in a manner that vrill speedily, we trust, obviate nearly 
 every reasonable objection of the kind referred to. Witii these introductory 
 remarks, we now commence our Connemara trip, for v;hich pui'pose we must 
 trespass on the highly effective and truthful pages of Miss Martineau, as far
 
 ON THB aOAS BETWEEN MATJME AXD OUGHTERARD, BETWEEN HAU-WAT HOUSE AND UAUltE 
 
 HOTEL, Joyce's countky. drawn by mahony.
 
 G rf 1^ AM Ali A ( THE IRISH HIGHLANDS)
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 177 
 
 preferable, or at least far more acceptable, than anything we could offer 
 ourselves. 
 
 " There are few things in the world more delightful than a drive at 
 sunset, in a bright autumn evening, among tlie mountains and lakes of Con- 
 nemara. A friend of ours describes tlie air of his favourite place by saying 
 it is like breathing champaign. The air here, on such an evening, is like 
 breathing cream. It has the best qualities of the sea and land breeze at 
 once. Then there are the grand bare mountains, the Bennobeola, or Twelve 
 Pins, with caprices of sunlight playing about their solemn heads, and shining 
 into their dark purple depths, and below are waters untraceable and incal- 
 culable. "We are here at the ends of the earth to all appearance ; for the 
 land is as a fringe, with the water running in everywhere between its 
 streaks. There are salt waters and fresh : bays, lakes, river, dashing tor- 
 rents, mirror -like pools, a salmon-leap here, an inlet for shell-fish there, and, 
 receding behind, Ballinahinch Lough, with its little island, just big enough 
 to hold the old castle, now a min, where tradition says that ' Dick Martin ' 
 used to imprison people who were guilty of cruelty to animals. Then comes 
 a basin of turf — a fiUcd-up lake, as any one may see, with the last Uttle pool 
 in the middle fast turning into bog. Close at hand are broken banks, 
 gaudy with heath and bog flowers in vast variety ; and beyond spreads the 
 bronzed moorland, with foreign-looking goats, black and white, browsing in 
 a group ; and sea-gulls dipping, as if they took it for the sea. Along the 
 road are brown-faced girls and boys, all healthy-looking, and many hand- 
 some ; and women finishing their reaping and binding for the day — theii' 
 madder-red petticoats and blue cloaks tlu'owing a wonderful chann of 
 colour into the scene. And next, we cannot but observe that cottages are 
 whitewashed as we approach Clifden. This was noticeable in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the mansion lately called the iNIartins' Castle ; and pleasant it 
 was to see neat white cottages up on the hill-sides, each with its ' stooks ' 
 of oats before it. The most experienced travellers find one piece of ex- 
 perience ever fresh and sti'iking— their inability to anticipate, through any 
 amount of previous reading and inquiry, what they shall see and what they 
 shall think in a new comitry. After wide travelling, extended over many 
 years, we are now feeling this as freshly as in our first journey ; and we need 
 not be ashamed to own it, as the same acknowledgment is made by some 
 persons who were likely to know a good deal more beforehand about the 
 Irish than ourselves— the English settlers in Connemara. Some of them 
 declare that, while in no one respect disappointed, they find the Irish people 
 with whom they have to do, and their circumstances, different from what they 
 expected. After a long course of reading and thought on Ireland and its 
 main interests, there were two things, among others, about which we felt 
 om'sclves pretty well assured — that in the wild west we should find the 
 peasantry most poor. We have passed through all the districts of the 
 English settlers ; we have skirted the lonely Kylemore Lough, and crossed 
 the moorlands at its head ; we have travelled the length of the wild 
 Killerics (where it was scarcely possible to believe ourselves within the 
 bomids of our own empire), and traversed the di-eary tract which lies 
 between the Erive and Westport ; we have left Connemara behind us, and 
 penetrated some way into ]\Iayo, and we have as yet seen only the same 
 stout, brown, clear-eyed health that we have spoken of in former letters. 
 We are now about to plunge into the very wildest part of the island — 
 beyond Aehill to the Mullet which was depopulated by the famine. Wher- 
 
 *• N
 
 178 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 
 
 ever we have been, and from all sorts of authorities, we have been assured 
 that there is a fine natui-al sense of justice among the Irish under whatever 
 strange perversions ; and it certainly appears as if, among their most 
 insufferable encroachments and theii- wildest eccentricities, they had some 
 distorted conception of justice in thcu- minds. These western wilds are the 
 region for English settlers. The fm-ther we proceed the more of them we 
 find ; and we must say that, as far as oxir observation goes, they seem to be 
 heartily welcome. In old days we used to believe (and we find that some 
 residents think so still) that the peasantry, all over Ireland, had a strong- 
 distaste to working for wages ; and that the one good thing in life, in their 
 estimate, was to have a bit of ground on which they might be independent. 
 "We now find indications of a very different feeling wherever Enghslimen 
 have settled. Mr. A. is a very fhie man, who employs sixty people or more, 
 who would be starving but for him. Mr. B. is a gentleman who has a very 
 fine wife, who has so many people come that they keep much company, and 
 spend a good deal of money. Mr. C. has a very fine place and garden, and 
 it employed plenty of people for a long while to raise it and get it into 
 order. Mr. 13. has a very fine mill ; and it is a fine thing for the place — it 
 employs so many people. Mr. E. has a very fine farm, and the people are 
 sure of work and wages all the year round. And so on, from one county to 
 another, in the entire extensive regions of the west. Clifden Castle, a part 
 of the late D'Arcy property, is inhabited by a gentleman who is said in the 
 neighbourhood to have done much good by ' teaching the people better 
 ways.' They were his turnips that were, with his other crops, shown us 
 with so much pride. And very well they looked. The quantity of land 
 that goes with the mansion, is, we were told, 250 acres, Avhich feeds ' an 
 illigant stock,' and leaves a good deal for sale, and of course employs many 
 people. It was a ragged boy who said, in answer to our remark on the 
 whitewashed cottages which shine all around on the liill-sides, that you may 
 always know that the people are well-doing within when you see white- 
 wash on the outside. We saw some fair plots of oats and turirips before 
 these places ; and girls feeding calves, and here and there a vast hydrangea 
 flowering near the door. From the inlet below, fish come up all the year 
 round. The men bring in large turbot, which sell for Is. 4d. or Is. 6d. 
 each ; and the boys Avade at low tide for shell-fish. The salmon-fisheries, 
 belonging to the Martin estate, employ not less than fifty persons on the 
 average of the year. The tin for the cases is imported fi-om Cornwall, and 
 the cases are made on the spot. Flags are imported, and used- for floorings 
 (better than mud !), and also for the grinding and polishing of the mai'bles 
 of the district. These importations take place at the httle wharf erected by 
 the late Mr. D'Arcy, whose mifinished monument (begun before the famine, 
 and left stunted) deserves to be completed by grateful admirers, and to 
 stand for futm-e generations to be proud of, on its commanding summit, 
 visible far over sea and land. "What the present exports are it is not easy 
 to make out, without closer inquiry than we have yet had time for ; but it 
 is easy to see what they might, and probably will, be. Some small openings 
 have been made in the centre of a valley, which reveal not only the green 
 marble of which the celebrated chimney-piece at the Martins' is made, but 
 that there are mountains of it ; and the same elsewhere with the black. 
 The red seaweed, mentioned before, abounds in all the bays. The sea, 
 lakes, and rivers, jdeld a vast wealth of produce : so might the surface of the 
 gromid, so does its interior. It is true the hill-sides are deformed by the
 
 DUBLIN TO GALAVAY. 179 
 
 staling gables of deserted dwellings ; it is true the gardens of the castle are 
 damp and -weedy, and the noble fig-tree trailing from the wall ; it is true 
 that the D'Arcy monument is unfinished, and the town of his creation more 
 dependent for subsistence, just now, on the influx of tourists, than a steady 
 trade ; it is true that the timid have a genuine side of the question as well 
 as the hopeful. But it is also true that the two great estates have come 
 into new hands, by which they may obtain that improvement which was 
 before impossible ; and that the people are fed and in health ; and that their 
 district is full of natui'al wealth ; and that strangers know it ; and it is true 
 beyond controversy that the condition and temper of the peasantiy are 
 improved. All this no doubt looks well in priat and coming ii'om such 
 well-established observers ; but, imfortunately, Avages arc high and labour 
 scarce. This is mainly attributable to the depopulation of the comitiy, and 
 even as we write hundi'eds coidd get work at Is. 6d. per day on this vast 
 estate ; but, unfortunately, labour is not to be pm-chased, and iii a country 
 where five pence per day was gladly taken some time shice, foiu* times that 
 sum is now refused by the peasantiy of this district, where eveiy houi* of 
 the life of the people woidd be required to develop the treasures of this 
 great country, where every inducement is held out for spirited enterprise 
 and manly pohcy ; and, as we have already said, it is to be hoped that the 
 present owners of the ^lartin estates will not allow tliemselvcs to doze into 
 the imbecilities of absolute stultification. Their capital is ia the land, then." 
 object should be to make the land pay them." 
 
 Notwithstanding Miss Martineau's description, probably, at the outset, 
 the tourist who enters upon this district with exalted notions of the sublime 
 and beautiful, will be disappointed. The road between Galway and Oughte- 
 rai'd has notliing very remarkable in the way of scenery to recommend it ; 
 the country, though undulating, is not picturesque ; it presents tracks of 
 tmi'eclaimed bog, but at such an elevation as to admit of easy di'ainage, 
 through the agency of those very materials in Avhicli Ireland most abounds 
 — namely, hmnan labour and limestone. Oughtcrard is prettily situated on 
 tlie banks of the little Feofih, in which pcaiis of considerable size are fre- 
 quently found ; and here it is that we get into the famous district of Conne- 
 mara — so celebrated in Irish stories, once so mysterious to the London 
 tomist, but so no longer. At the extremity of the Aiilage is a pretty little 
 cottage, known as Martin's gate-house. From this point, with trifling 
 intermission, the mail-coach road passes through what was once liis property 
 to his home residence at Balhmaliinch, a distance of twenty-five miles. The 
 scenery now improves, and within a few miles of the half-way house, where 
 the Maume road branches off", becomes cxceedinglv romantic. The road here 
 gi'acefuUy winds round the edges of Lough Shin^lla, studded •nith islands, 
 covered with wood, the only timber to be met with in this country, with 
 little exception, owing to the trees not having been protected from the 
 cattle browsing upon the young wood. A little further on the road brings 
 us to FljT.n's Half-way House, where ponies or cars may bo obtained to 
 explore this magnificent region. The lakes now become extremely nume- 
 rous in eveiy dii'ection. At the beautiful Glenda lough, on the south side, 
 a pretty house was erected by the late Dean ^lahon, knoAvn as " The 
 Kecess." Here the mountain scenery becomes entrancing, as we \iew the 
 Comiemara and Joyce mountains through the deep gorge before us. From 
 this point Kylemore and Lough Inah can be easily reached, and " The 
 Recess " Hotel, in pomt of cleanliness and comfort, is not surpassed by any 
 
 :i 2
 
 180 
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 
 
 auberge in whicli we ever passed a night in our rambles thi'ough tliis wild 
 region. Lakes Derryclare and Balljaiahinch, with Lough Inah, must be 
 considered as the most picturesque, all studded with numerous islands, 
 covered with wood, and formmg an agreeable contrast to the surrounding 
 'bleakness. The mountains known as Bennobeola, or Twelve Pins, are 
 world-famed as a most noble range, of which Titmarsh says, " The best 
 guide-book that ever was written cannot set the view before the mind's eye 
 of the reader." 
 
 Although nothing can exceed the beauty of the situation of Ballynahinch 
 House, yet it is plain to a degree, and not the kind of structure one would 
 ^expect to meet with as the residence of the proprietor of such a vast 
 property. It was boasted by Mr. Martin, speaking of his own possessions, 
 that " Here, thank God, the king's writ is not worth a halfpenny." It 
 would not be difficult to enimierate instances of the anomalous condition of 
 this country fifty years ago, and which has given rise to so many almost 
 
 %h. 
 
 CONNEMABA PEASANT. DRA"WTy BY S. LOVBR. 
 
 incredible stories ; but we leave that for others whose vocation is more 
 exclusively " entertaining." At the village of Ballynahinch, in the fann- 
 houses, anglers usually stay, and if sport in the " gentle art" be theii' 
 object, rich is their reward. The scenery between Ballynahinch and 
 Clifden is quite in keeping with what has already been described. " It is a 
 singular fact," says the Times Commissioner, " that the fui'ther you travel 
 westward in Ireland, the more bountiful does Natui-e appear to have been 
 in heaping upon the country natui'al resouixes, and the less has been done
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 
 
 181 
 
 by the hand of man to use and improve them." This latter remark is 
 fortunately no longer applicable, for improvement is now progressing, and 
 as far as the scarcity of labour, consequent on the fast increasing popu- 
 lation ■will admit, advantage is being taken on all hands of the teeming 
 fisheries, beautiful green and other marble quames, and the vaiious riches 
 
 A CONNEMARA INTERIOR. ■WOMAN AT SPINNING-WHEEL. DRAWN BY RAilUEL LOVEE. 
 
 of tliis most prolific region, pro^ving "what may be done in Connemara Mvith. 
 moderate capital combined ■with enterprise. The ■whole coast abounds with 
 fine harbours ; those of Galway, Ardbcar, and Roundstone, are particularly 
 worthy of notice. An excm'sion to the latter-named place, when time 
 permits, "will well repay the tom-ist, as, independent of the fine coast scenery, 
 this locality presents one of the very best views of the famous Twelve Pins
 
 182 DUELIX TO GALAVAY. 
 
 of Bennobeola, the great mountain glory of the district. Xor should the 
 tourist by any means leave tliis place without ascending Wurrisbey Moun- 
 tain, which is situated behind Koundstone, and discloses some command- 
 ing prospects. There is an excellent little inn at Roundstone, kept by Mr. 
 !Macauley, a most intelligent and communicative Boniface, who will give 
 the best "ad%-ice as to roads and fishing. And, by the way, for the lover of 
 the angle there is no part of Connemara superior to this, though every part 
 of it is most excellent. The town of Roundstone was founded by Ximmo. 
 No one can fail to observe with what skill and judgment most of tlie roads 
 in this part of Ireland were laid out by him. 
 
 All travellers are agreed that the peasantry of Connemara are a fine 
 athletic race, taller and stronger built than in other parts of Ireland ; the 
 women extremely good-looking, and having in general dark hair with 
 brown eyes. The di-ess is peculiar, the petticoat being invariably of a deep 
 madder-red coloiu-, and theii- cloak or covering for the head generally blue : 
 the latter is put on in the way peculiar to this part of Ireland, the head 
 being completely covered, with the exception of the face. The whole dress 
 strongly reminds one of the Spanish costume, and they only require the 
 large combs and the graceful mantilla to make the resemblance complete. 
 Again, to quote Thackeray, " If Berghem could have seen those blue 
 mountains, and Karl du Jardin coxild have copied some of these green airy 
 plains, with their brilliant little groups of peasant beggars, hoi-semen, &c., 
 many an Englishman would know Connemara upon canvas as he does 
 Italy or Flanders now. The inhabitants of Joyce's countiy are still a race 
 of giants, though the severe famines have somewhat been instrumental in 
 degenerating the people, who, however, will, in another generation, doubt- 
 less attain their customaiy Patagonian character in altitude and dimensions. 
 The comeliness of lai'ge numbers of the women of the humbler order in 
 many parts of Ireland has been repeatedly noticed by every class of 
 traveller, most of whom are not a little astonished at the contrast thus 
 presented to the preconceived ideas they had fonned fifom the Celtic Aisages 
 encountered in the great manufacturing towns of England, and in the rural 
 disti'icts about harvest time.* 
 
 * On tliis point, and the still more important one of the character of the female 
 peasantry, we string together a few paragraphs from Sir F. B. Head: — "I found, 
 seated on the ground, several groups of women and girls, all in red petticoats and 
 white or striped shawls. Some wore caps, while the hair of the remainder hung 
 loose on their shoulders, with nothing to keep it from dangling hefore their eyes 
 but their ears, behind which a portion of it was more or less neatly packed or 
 poked. Before each of them lay a quantity of fruit or dried fish in a flat basket ; 
 but as there was not in sight a single purchaser, patiently and cheerily they sat 
 chattering in Irish, and looking into each other's eyes, taking not the slightest notice 
 of me, although, for a few minutes, I stood among them, noting their appearance in 
 my book. At their feet sat an extremely pretty, modest-looking young woman, in a 
 ragged red petticoat mended by, or rather composed of, patches, no one of which was 
 as big as my hand. From her head, twisted into beautiful folds, hung an old blanket 
 in rags and tatters. ... As we were proceeding alongside of a river, on our right, 
 we passed, on a lonely, desolate road, an extremely beautiful bare-footed girl of about 
 seventeen, whose hair, unrestrained even by her ears, was hanging in a state of 
 perfect nature on her shoulders. On her back was a bundle, and in her right hand, 
 which was vibrating easily by her side, there swung a very small bonnet. Altogether, 
 she was a fine specimen of the Connemara peasantry, to be considered the tallest and 
 handsomest in Ireland. It is no use any longer trying to conceal the fact, that during 
 my short tour in Ireland ray prejudices against bare ancles and naked feet were con- 
 siderably softened ; indeed, ' there can be no doubt that there is a freshness in this
 
 DUBLIN TO CALAVAT. 183 
 
 We only "wish, we could transfer to om- pages the colouring with which. 
 Lover imbued the sketches he has allowed us to select from the portfolio he 
 filled "with di'awings dm-ing his recent torn- with Baron Liebig, the great 
 German philosopher, who delighted the Hibernian bard and artist by the 
 enthusiasm of liis admii-ation of the " Land of the West," and everything 
 thereunto appertaining, save the poverty of its people and the neglect of the 
 means of their improvement. The preceding cut is very characteristic ; the 
 instrument used by the female being quite pecuUar to the region we are 
 now describing. It was in the neighbourhood of Cong that Lover made 
 some of his happiest sketches ; and here, too, he di-ew the earliest inspira- 
 tion of the genius that has since charmed so many thousands in so many 
 ways. It was at Cong, some five-and-twenty years ago, when travelling 
 with liis distinguished fellow-countrjTuan, George Petrie, that he heard sung, 
 at night, in that mountain solitude, the beautiful Irish aii' of " My dark- 
 haii-ed Giii," which he has since rendered so universally familiar — the first 
 of the innumerable lyi-ic family of favomites to which the " Angels' 
 "Wliisper " and " Rory O'More " belong ; and it is worthy of remark, that 
 both Lover and Petrie Avere so struck Avith the melody, that each noted it 
 doAvn at the moment, without being conscious that the other was doing so, or 
 had even heard it. The romantically-situated structm-e on a succeeding 
 page possessed peculiar attractions for the author of " Handy Andy," as the 
 hereditary home of the Blakes, to whose gifted family Ireland owes so much, 
 not the least of her obligations (shared in by the whole reading public) being 
 to that particular member to whom is due the interesting " Letters ti-om the 
 Ii'ish Highlands." 
 
 And here, too, history again, with her thousand recollections, springs up 
 to people the locale with the phantoms of the past, as if specially to heighten, 
 as it were, the present charms of that singularly lovely landscape by 
 reminiscences of the turbulent and bloody deeds of which it was the site, 
 and are here recalled by the presence of Ilenvyle Castle — 
 
 Beneath -wliose battlements, within whose walls, 
 Power dwelt amid her passions : — in proud state 
 Each feudal chief upheld these armed halls. 
 Doing his evil will, nor less elate 
 Than mightier heroes of a longer date. 
 
 The building ofiers a perpetual theme for the pencil of the artist, and is 
 taken fi-om a great vaiiety of points — the one shown in Lover's sketch being, 
 perhaps, the faAom'ite. 
 
 From CUfden, proceeding towards Roundstone, the cotmtry is desolate and 
 dreaiy. Behind Roundstone is Mountain Urrisberg, wliich afibrds a good 
 view of a country " more singular than beautiful ;" the lakes being almost 
 innumerable. Mr. Robertson, between Ballynahiuch and Roundstone, 
 gives considerable employment in his salmon fishery, as also in his exten- 
 
 costume of nature that cannot belong to a fine, fashionable gown, which, from sweep- 
 ing the ground, and from being tightly bandaged round the waist, forms a splendid 
 un ventilated palace, in which the architect has forgotten to insert either chimney, 
 staircase, door, or window. . . . Fi-om the morning on which I had visited the Great 
 Model National School of Marlborough-strect, Dublin, to the hour of my arrival at 
 Galway, I had remarked, in the Irish female countenance, an innate or native 
 modesty more clearly legible than it has ever been my fortune to read in journeying 
 through any other country on the globe."
 
 
 I! iLlllIn' 
 
 
 II' iC 
 
 \, lii 
 
 ^'i'liiS 
 
 1 1'! I 
 
 V.i ,i.„;.' 
 
 Wiiill. ,I,'m 
 
 
 \ 
 
 $^ 
 
 I 'l III 
 I ' II I 
 
 'Vi'lll''^ 
 
 % \U%\ 
 
 pf| *"
 
 186 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 
 
 sive establishment for preserving provisions. Fish, flesh, fowl, vegetables, 
 milk, &c., are all preserved in tin cases ; and fi'om the cheapness of 
 provisions generally, and the great abundance of fish, a better countiy 
 could not well be selected for such an establishment. Beef and mutton, 
 though sharing in the general advance of late, are still, in Connemara, 
 about 4d. per lb., and fish is absm'dly cheap : a large tm-bot for 6d. or 
 8d. ; oysters about 6d. per hundred ; and herrings, finer than upon any 
 other part of the coast, not even exceptmg the famous Dublin Bay herring, 
 sold for about 10s. per 1000. To those sceptical as to the feasibility of 
 reclaiming bog-land, we would recommend a visit to Mr. Robertson's well- 
 managed farm, producing enormous crops of turnips, oats and potatoes, on 
 land so wet and marshy in some parts that a person could not walk across 
 it before it was di-ained. He certamly farms under peculiar advantages, 
 having great quantities of bones, offal, oyster-shells — the refuse of his 
 estabhshment — which are carefully stored up. As an iastance of the 
 secui'ity to life and property in Connemara, Mr. Robertson has no locks to 
 any of the doors of his house ; and he is by no means singular in this 
 I'espect. 
 
 Having remained as long at Clifden as time will permit, the traveller 
 proceeds to Kylemore and Leenane, the beauty of the scenery along the 
 Killery Harbour presenting the richest treat imaginable. It does not, 
 however, become particularly interesting until Ballynakill Harbour appears 
 in sight; in which district several gentlemen have settled do-svn and re- 
 claimed vast tracts of bog-land with the utmost success. The scenery along 
 the valley in which the beautiful lake of Kylemore is situated is very 
 striking, there being also a comfortable little inn. Shortly after leaving 
 Kylemore, the Killery comes in view, and certainly a more wild or romantic 
 scene cannot well be conceived. The mountain of Mewh'ea, to the north of 
 the harbom-, is 2,688 feet, the highest in the west of Ireland, and gives one 
 the idea of l)eing much liigher than it is in reality, from being on the sea- 
 coast. Inglis, speaking of this romantic district, says, that the scenery, in 
 passing from Clifden to the Killeries and Leenane, is the finest in Ireland. 
 In boldness of character, nothing at Killarney comes at all near to it ; and 
 although the deficiency of wood excludes the possibihty of a competition 
 with Killarney in pictm'esque beauty, the scenery of this part of Conne- 
 mara, including especially the Killeries, which is in Joyce's country, is 
 entitled to rank liighcr than the more praised — because better known — 
 scenery of KiUarney. It is of an entfrely novel character, and resembles 
 more the scenery of a Norwegian ^orcZ than anything nearer home. 
 
 At Leenane the road divides into two branches ; the northern road leading 
 to Westport, and the other road to INIaume Inn and Cong. To persons who 
 cannot afford the time, this latter road is the one that must be followed, as 
 tourists can by this route either return by way of Tuam, or take the cross- 
 road at Maume Inn, which is only four miles from the mail-coach road to 
 Galway. Persons who are not limited as to time, ought certainly not to 
 leave tliis part of Ireland without ^'isiting Erris and Tyrawley. From 
 Leenane to Maume Inn (nine miles) the road skirts the Bealanabrack River, 
 which finally rims into Lough Corrib, and is a drive of very considerable 
 interest, particularly if in it is embraced a -visit to the famous Hen's Castle, 
 erected by the son of Roderick O'Connor, last king of Ireland, aided pro- 
 bably by Anglo-Norman builders, and was for several centm-ies one of the 
 .cliief places of strength, in Connaught. The legend is, that it was erected
 
 :^'y-^if''^r> 

 
 188 
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAT. 
 
 in one night by a lien and her chickens. TThen destroyed in Cromwell's time, 
 it was in the possession of the OTlahertys. Innisghoill, or the Foreigners' 
 Island, centrally situated in the upper half of Lough Conib, contains the , 
 ruins of two very ancient chui'ches, of great interest to the architectural ] 
 antiquary. The island was a settlement of the Irish saints ; and it is sup- 
 posed that St. Patrick visited it. This reminds us that it was made a 
 reproach to our book last year, that it contained few or no allusions to the 
 antiquities of this portion of Connaught, leaving it to be infeiTed that there 
 was nothing of the kind in the whole district. Such is by no means the 
 case. On the contrary, they abomid in almost unusual profusion. A recent 
 eloquent writer — a " commissioner" for one of the morning journals — at the 
 begimiing of at om* in Connemara, the records of which he published in 
 the preceding month of May, [1853], commences thus : — " Ruins are the great 
 feature of Ireland — ruins of all kinds — rains old and ruins new — ruins of 
 lordly castles — ruins of venerable churches — ruins of wealthy monasteries 
 and noble abbeys — ruins of lowly cottages — ruins of times of power and 
 
 CABGiy CASTLE, FROM THE SH0EE8 OF LOUGH COBKIB. 
 
 wealth, long matters of histoiy ; and niins of times of rashness, extrava- 
 gance, and poverty — of undertakings commenced impro%-idently, and thi'own 
 aside despondingly without completion. All is ruin wherever you go ; from 
 the crumbling walls and faiutly charactered tombs that tell' of greatness, 
 and absorb and delight the antiquary, to the unroofed cottages that tell of 
 present misery, death, and emigration ; that shock the man of feeUng, and 
 set the political economist theorismg. I was on the broad waters of the 
 Corrib. Before me was the Castle of Menlowe — save a few poor rooms and 
 a single tower— a ruin. Behind me was Dangan, once the principal seat of 
 the great Martin family, now an auxiliary workhouse filled with fat-looking 
 pauper boys, lazily lolling along the garden waUs. On my right I could 
 see the three remainmg walls of the Castle of the Clam-icardes, Avhile in the 
 far distance up the lake were just "sisible the turrets of the lofty keep of 
 the Castle of Aghnanure." This last-named structm-e was a very ancient 
 seat of the once all-powerful sept of the OTlahertys, evidences of whose 
 former feudal greatness ai'e to be seen all thi-ough this region. Annexed is 
 the singular remains of another hold of a rival tribe, the Lynches, also in 
 the lake, and found standing on slight eminences, overlooking a great extent 
 of country. Such is the case with Cargin j it is one of those sti'ongholds
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 189 
 
 which, in feudal times, enabled the chief of the clan and his followers to 
 defend themselves from any sudden attack of a neighboui-ing chief, with 
 whom he might not be on terms of good fellowship, the duration of which, 
 even where it existed, was generally of an uncertain and precarious tenure. 
 The Castle of Cargin is now a complete ruin, covered with ivy. It stands 
 alone, without tree or shrub near it, overlooking the broad lake, and the 
 mountains of Connemara beyond it ; but all to the east and south is an end- 
 less plain, terminated only by the horizon, over which the eye sees only a 
 succession of stone walls, gradually diminishing from the sight as they recede 
 in the distance. 
 
 In our first year's issue, we gave a good many statistical, topographical, 
 and other details, which we do not think it necessary here to repeat ; for 
 since then Connemara has been the subject of as many descriptions as 
 Wicklow was wont to be a quarter of a century ago. Not only has it been 
 visited and described by Miss Martineau, as oui- pages have pretty conclu- 
 sively shown — and that she knows " How to Observe " and " What to 
 Observe," none need be told at this time of day — but Connemara was the 
 principal scene of the observation of Sir F. Head's " Fortnight in Ireland" 
 — a work that, had it eschewed politics, would have deserved to rank with 
 its author's inimitable " Rough Kides in the Pampas," which it so much 
 resembles, at least in the hastiness of the acquisition of materials for com- 
 mentary, and in several features of graphic and faithful portraiture, accom- 
 panied undoubtedly by several errors, inseparable from precipitate penman- 
 ship flowing upon headlong locomotion. Another honom'able baronet, Sii* 
 Digby Neave, has, during the last twelve months, devoted upwards of 300 
 pages to the record of " Four Days in Connemara," though the only fresh 
 fact he seems to have brought away -with him, as decidedly his own, or at 
 least as having been told him by a friend, is, that rainbows are as numerous 
 as cattle in that amazing region ; but at the same time it would be unjust 
 to deny Sir Uigby the praise of having put together a quantity of gossip 
 that might be read with entertainment anywhere by those who coincide in 
 the rather extreme opinions of the ^vl•iter. The Rev. J. D. Smith has like- 
 wise, within the same period, written some 150 pages upon " Connemara, 
 Past and Present," a most useful work, apart from the polemical precepts 
 which he vehemently inculcates, and with the bearings of which it is not 
 om- province to interfere. Still better than all are Forbes' " Memorandums 
 made in Ireland in 1852," an invaluable book. In addition to all these, and 
 others of a like kind might be enumerated, the public journals have teemed 
 with communications on the moral and physical reclamation going on in the 
 neighbourhood of Lord Chief Justice Campbell's estate at Barna, and, 
 indeed, on all the estates of the English and Scotch proprietors in all parts 
 of Connemara. Hence it would be a recapitulation of mere familiar truisms 
 were we to repeat now much that was novel and interesting even a brief 
 twelvemonth ago. Here, therefore, mindful of the yet unsatisfied large 
 claims on our space, we are perforce compelled to pause, merely repeating 
 our former remarks, that if our little volume have one object more than 
 another, it is to dii'cct the attention of English travellers, and capitalists in 
 a special degi'ee, to the west, where we can assure them they will find in 
 superabmidance, in safety, and at their o-svn doors as it were, those materials 
 of health, wealth, and prosperity, in precarious and too often delusive 
 pursuit of which thousands annually set out to the ends of the earth, at an 
 mevitable sacrifice of nearly all those ties that most endear a domestic
 
 190 
 
 DUBLIN TO G;VLWAY. 
 
 British home to its possessors. -And as illustrative of the e?:pcricnce of a 
 most competent authority, we subjoin an extract from a familiar but never- 
 too-oftcn-to-be-quoted letter, by Licut.-Col. Kitchiner. He says: — "I am 
 living in a cottage without a lock or bolt, sleeping on the ground-floor 
 ^vithout shutters. I would not venture to live in England so little secured. 
 I have received the greatest kindness and hospitality fi-oni aU ranks. I 
 
 IRISH HOVEI. IN THE FAR VEST. 
 
 have grouse, woodcock, snipe, and hares upon my property ; yachting close 
 by ; geese and cod-fish are brought to me at Is. each ; large tm'bot, 2s. ; 
 soles. Id. each ; fowls. Is. a couple ; and everything else in proportion. 
 Now, Enghslunen who have capital, \vith intelligent, active sons, think of 
 land at ten years' purchase improveable to an enormous extent — doing good 
 in your generation, and able to laugh at free trade ! " 
 
 BETTER SORT OF COXNAtGlIT CABIX. 
 
 Erris, and Tyrawley. — A most interesting portion of the west of 
 Ireland, for the tourist in search of the pictm-esque, is to be found in the 
 wilds of Erris and Tyi'awley, being the north-west extremity of JMayo — 
 well known to the reading public from the truthful descriptions of poor 
 Maxwell and the Kcv. Ca3sar Otway — both, alas ! by death removed from 
 amidst the scenes wherein they — kindi-ed spirits ! — loved to dwell, ^iauy
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAT. 191 
 
 social cliangcs have since their time occui'red, all tending to improve, in 
 good time, we trust, the condition both of the country and its people. 
 Travelling is now a matter of comparative ease and certainty even in this 
 remote district, and the usual comforts, so essential to touiists, are to be 
 obtained at the various inns on the route. However, it is in this region in 
 particular, where, notwithstanding the great improvement which has taken 
 place, one continually sees what can scarcely be supi^osed to be habitations 
 of human beings, but rather seem sheds for cattle, especially ns the head of a 
 cow, or some other foiu'-footed beast, is observed peeping out oi' tl.u doorway. 
 Many of these cabins are built of stones, loosely heaped together, with no 
 window ; and the only place for the light to come in at, and the smoke to go 
 out, is through a small hole in the miserably-thatched, and sometunes sodded 
 roof, at all times pervious to the rain, and thi'ough the doorway. No pictu.re 
 di'awn by the pencil — none by the pen— can possibly convey an idea of the 
 sad reality. The inmates, as may be supposed, are wretchedly clad m rags 
 and tatters, and the children almost in a state of nudity. But e\ en this is a 
 Corinthian edifice compared to others, of which we present a complete series. 
 Yet, as below the lowest depths there is a deeper still, even these are Pala- 
 dian structures to some built of stones loosely, or rather promiscuously and 
 at hap-hazard, as it were, heaped together, without mortar or even clay. 
 The reader must not suppose, as at fii'st sight he might be inclined to do 
 from our Uttle vignette, that they are either Cyclopean, Pelasgic, or Etru- 
 rian ; though, like the latter, they are polygonal, but composed of such 
 polygons as nature or accident had made. Yet, worse even than this worst 
 is that portrayed by the grapliic pencil of Mahony, in the large engraving 
 on the annexed page, as evidence of what the fanmie had brought its 
 victims, or rather the survivors, to. And still worse than even that worse 
 may be seen as resulting, in too many cases, from the eviction system, when 
 pushed to its fullest extremity of extermination. To pm'sue this topic, 
 however, might seduce us into the debateable ground of politics ; so let us- 
 eschew it, and pass to a more congenial theme. The wild grandeur of the 
 scenery amongst the mountains and valleys of Erris is not sm'passed by any 
 in the kingdom. The lakes, so lovely and romantically situated ; the clear, 
 sparkling risers, abounding with trout and salmon ; the heather-covered hills 
 and moors, with the wild Atlantic in the distance — all tend to form a pano- 
 rama not easily to be matched, or forgotten when once looked upon. This 
 portion of the " Irish Highlands " is to the north of Connemara and the 
 Joyce country, and may from thence be reached by going northward through 
 Castlebar, and by Westport or Newport ; but by far the best and most 
 interesting road is by Sligo and Ballina, should the tourist be journeying 
 from the Ulster or northern portion of the kingdom. Once arrived at 
 Ballina, the road westAvard tlu'ough Crossmoliua to Belmullet takes us 
 thi'Ough the heart of this interesting country. Cars are to be had from most 
 of the inns at a cheap rate ; Bianconi's well-appointed conveyances also 
 traverse the district in various directions. Ballina is a pleasant and thriving 
 town, situated on the river Moy, having its well-known salmon fishery, so 
 often alluded to by the celebrated Davy, in " Salmonia." Here is found 
 tlie Gillaroo trout, remarkable from its gizzard, and so encomiastically 
 described by Sir Humpluy. He had never met with one except in Ireland. 
 It was at one time thought that tliis fish was peculiar to Lough Corrib ; it 
 has, however, of late, been found both in Ncagh, Erne, and Mask, and 
 sometimes weighs from fifty to sixty poimds. Permission to fish in the
 
 192 
 
 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 
 
 Ballina river is easily obtainable, and it is much frequented by lovers of tbe 
 rod from all parts. The inns here are numerous and well conducted. 
 Mrs. Atkinson's (The Wellington) has long been the rendezvous of the 
 tourist and angler. The hotels of Flynn and Anderson are also good, and 
 charges moderate. Boats for the river, and guides, are to be had ; and good 
 sport, without unnecessary loss of time, is generally found. To the curious 
 in archaeological matters this route is a rich treat. On the opposite bank of 
 the river from Ballina are the ruins of an extensive Priory. The richly 
 
 COMMON SORT OF MAYO MUD CABIN. 
 
 ornamented doorway is still in good preservation. Lower down, on the 
 Mayo side, are the extensive ruins of Roserke Abbey, the pointed arcliitec- 
 ture of wliich is much admired. A few miles further down the river brings 
 the tourist to the remains of the once celebrated Abbey of Moyne — said to 
 be the very last abandoned by its occupants at the period of the suppression. 
 It was held by the Franciscans. Close by, at the small but pleasantly 
 situated to-svn of Killala, is one of the famed round towers, with its conical- 
 
 ■WORST SORT OP MAYO STONE CAIilN. 
 
 capped top, in excellent preservation, though for so many ages exposed to 
 the sea-breezes as well as the tooth of time ! Many years since it was 
 damaged by lightning, but has since been restored. Here at Kilcoleman 
 Head, in the bay of Killala, the French, under Humbert, landed in 1798. 
 In this neighbourhood the geologist will find a very rich field open to his 
 search ; the conchologist v,n\l meet much to fascinate him ; and those to 
 whom nature, even in her rudest di-css, is an object of allurement, will find, 
 on trial, they have not visited this interesting locality in vain.
 
 FOURTH TOUR -DUBLIN TO THE CAUSEWAY. 
 
 We now enter upon our last tour, and regret that space will not allow us to 
 do it adequate justice, even as compared with the preceding trijjs ; though 
 in the number and importance of the towns about to be passed thi-ough, 
 scenic beauty, or past interest, double the limits already occupied would be 
 needed to convey an idea of Avhat the traveller should be apprised of. To 
 the historian it is pregnant v>ith materials of highest value. Fruitful as 
 are most parts of Ireland in evidences of a remote and mystic antiquity, as 
 well as of authentic proofs of pagan civilisation, in this region they are 
 especially conspicuous. The earliest memorials of Christianity in the 
 United Kingdom are associated with Downpatrick and Armagh. The 
 Anglo-Norman invasion and the regime of the Pale are identitied with 
 Carlingford. With the annals of the Commonwealth and the lievolution, 
 the names of Dundalk, Drogheda, and Londonderry, are interwoven ; while 
 many of the more momentous events of recent times have also had then- 
 origin witliin the sphere about to be embraced. 
 
 A considerable portion of the region indicated in the foi'egoing paragraph 
 is traversed by railway ; and all the large towns on the eastern Irish sea- 
 coast, together with many others lying immediately inland, are linked in 
 one continuous chain by viaduct across the Boyne at Drogheda. This great 
 triumph of engineering science has been at length completed. A foundation, 
 long deemed impracticable, has been secured for the centre pier of the 
 viaduct in the midst of the deep and rapid tideway of the Boyne. Com- 
 munication between the Dublin and Drogheda Kne, and that of the Belfast 
 Junction, has been carried on, for some time past, over a temporary wooden 
 bridge at the unliuished portion of the viaduct. This structure, admirably 
 erected of massive beams of wood, has subserved the jjurposes of railway 
 ti'afSc between Dublin and Belfast most effectively and safely. It with- 
 stood, without the loss of a splinter, the frightful gales of last winter, 
 although vessels of large tonnage were wrecked, and went to pieces, withui 
 sight of the bridge. Heavily-laden trains passed over it in safety. But 
 now the permanent works ha^'e been nearly completed, and this noble 
 viaduct remains a proud monument of scientific resource and engineering 
 skill. The tom-ist, setting forth from his hotel in Dublin for the north, 
 is, in the first place, conveyed to 
 
 The Dublin and Drogheda Railway Terminus, designed by Mr. 
 W. D. Butler, architect, built by Williams and Sons, Dublin, a handsome 
 edifice, in the Italian style, situated on what was formerly a jjortion of the 
 inner Custom-house yard, facing Talbot-street, at a considerable elevation, 
 commanding the level of the entire line to Drogheda. At the commence- 
 ment, the railway is carried over Sherriff-street, at a height of 18 feet, by a 
 
 2
 
 196 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 platform bridge on massive Tuscan colmnns of cast iron. At a short 
 distance it crosses the Koyal Canal, over a bridge constructed on a beautiful 
 principle by Sir John Macneill, cnginecr-in-cliicf. 
 
 Clo.vtauf. — Traversing a wide extent of the Clontarf estuaiy by an 
 embankment, and over a handsome bridge, the line passes by Clontarf. 
 leaving to the left the Crescent, and Earl Claremont's splendid demesne of 
 Marino, of which the Dublin citizeiLS are extremely proud ; but only a 
 glimpse of the mansion can be caught as we are whii-led along ; and the 
 same of the Casino, in the Italian style, much admiixd for the beauty of its 
 proi^ortions. In tliis neighbourhood was fought the celebrated battle of 
 Clontarf. on Good Friday, 23rd of April, 1014, the result of which was the 
 total roiit and expulsion of the Danes from Ireland — a triumph dimmed by 
 the death of the aged regal chief, Brian Eoroihme. Hence Clontarf has 
 been designated by J. Dalton, the antiquary, " The Marathon " of Ireland ; 
 but its more recent celebrity arises from its being the site of the abortive 
 monster-meeting with which terminated O'Connell's agitation of that kind, 
 in 1844. The greater j)ortion of tliis district constituted the jiatrimony of a 
 rehgious commmiity. Erected into a manor, and granted, in 1641, to Sii" 
 Gcofirey Fenton, it subsequently came into the Vernon family, by whom it 
 is still held. Clontarf Castle, built by Mr. J. E. Vernon, is a noble imita- 
 tion of the Norman Gothic. 
 
 Clontarf to Baldoyle. — The line crosses the Howth road by a metal 
 bridge of 50 feet span. In this quarter Donnycarney-house, and some other 
 fine mansions, are situate. Soon after the line enters a deep cutting through 
 strata of black limestone 40 feet in dejjth, and tAvo miles in length ; over 
 which cutting are several bridges and viaducts — that at Killcster being of 
 iron, and very graceful. We now pass through Coolock parish, and 
 approach the station at Raheny — the village of wlucli name lies a little to 
 the right. From the station-house can be seen Edenmore, seat of Mr. 
 George Hoyte ; Manor-house, residence of Capt. ISIontgomery, E.N. ; and in 
 the distance, Raheny -house, IMr. J. Sweetman's : while farther on, towards 
 Howth, is Raheny-jjark, ^Ir. Thomas T. Grcsham's. Next station is Kilbar- 
 nock, in whose vicinity are the ruins of an ancient abbey and cemetery. 
 Traversing a level country, the line reaches Baldoyle, a pretty village six 
 miles from Dublin, inhabited principally by fisheimen, and in summer by 
 bathing visit(n-s from the metroi^olis. A little beyond, the railway gives off 
 a branch to IIo\^ th, already described ; but we may here add, that a hand- 
 some and commodious hotel is now erected in Howth, under the jjatronage 
 of the noble proprietor of the district. The vicinage of Howth, airavt from 
 its other attractions, is likely to become peculiarly interesting dmiiig this 
 summer, particularly to scientific visitors. Advertisements have been issued 
 to contractors willing to undertake the raising of the steamer, Queen 
 Victoria, from the spot where she lies submerged in eight fathoms water, 
 just beneath the rocks off the Bailey light-house, where she struck and 
 went down, invohing hundreds in sudden destruction. 
 
 Baldoyle to Malahide. — From Baldoyle the line passes through 
 St. Doulough's, Portmarnock, Kenscaly, Felham, See, leaving, right and 
 left, several handsome residences, including Balyriffin-park, Portmarnock- 
 house, Mr. Luke Pluukett's, Limehill, (^c. St. Doulough's Church is one of 
 the most ancient, characteristic, and best preserved religious edifices in 
 Ireland. St. Doulough's Well, in the vicinity, is quite in keeping with the 
 unique character of the chm-ch. The spring, rising from a circular basin
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 197 
 
 CUT out a single stone, is walled in by an octagon building with a stone 
 roof, the waters, of course, being supposed by the people to possess 
 miraculous virtues. Passing Broomfield-house, seat of Mr. George Cash, 
 and penetrating ]Malahide-hill through a cutting under a handsome bridge 
 of 30 feet span, the line arrives at Malahide station. 
 
 Malaiiide to Swords. — The village of Malahide is prettily seated on 
 an arm of the sea, with Lambay Island to the north, and Ireland's Eye and 
 Howth to the south. This locality has greatly improved of late. The 
 terrace erected by ]\Ir. J. Fagan is much admired. A spacious hotel, with 
 well laid out plcasure-gi'ounds, has been established, and the village seems 
 fa.st growing into repute as a watering-place. At a short distance is the 
 entrance to iSIalahide Castle, the extcnsi\c parks and pleasure-grotmds of 
 which almost surround the hamlet on the western side. Tliis superb 
 baronial keep is one of the finest of its kind in Ireland. Perhaps, with the 
 exception of ^litchelstown Castle (a modern building), it is the very finest, 
 as it is by far the most interesting in every other respect. It is superfluous 
 t-o say that the name of Talbot figures prominently in the history of these 
 kingdoms, from the time of Henry II. downwards. jNIalahidc Castle, as 
 improved by the father of the present lord, presents an aspect in the highest 
 degree stately and noble, and such as would, perhaps, look out of place 
 almost anywhere but amid such scenes as surround it. The great hall is 
 one of the noblest things of its kind in the United Kingdom, roofed with 
 grained oak paneling of vast age ; but the inner hall, still more splendid, is 
 roofed and wainscotted with oak, carved in elaborate devices, each jianel 
 representing incidents from Scripture. The chimney-piece is a fine specimen 
 of Gotliic decoration, the figures of the Virgin and Child being admired in a 
 preeminent degree. The other apartments are decorated in corresponding 
 stj'le, the galleries containing many rare paintings by the best masters. 
 Xear the castle may be seen the ruins of an ancient church, wherein the 
 Talbots of many generations lie buried. Crossing Malahide estuary, on a 
 strong embankment, 8 feet over ordinary spring tides, the line traverses a 
 wooden viaduct of 11 arches of 50 feet wide each, beneath which the sea 
 flows up to Lissen Hall-bridge, 2 miles, where it meets the Swords river, 
 whose banks are completely dry at low water, and it would require com- 
 paratively small capital to reclaim these wastes. 
 
 Swords to Rush and Lusk. — We now pass within view of the time- 
 honoured locality of Swords, 2^ miles off', on a small stream which runs into 
 the Lissen Hall river, abounding in famous trout. It owes its origin to a 
 monastery founded by St. Columb. Here the remains of " Brien the Brave" 
 were conveyed with all honoiu" after the battle of Clontai'f, with those of his 
 chivalrous son Murrough, and thence to Armagh. Here is a lofty round 
 tower in fine preservation, and the bell-tower of the old abbey, the former 
 73 feet in height, 5 ' feet in circumference at the base, and its walls 4 feet 
 in thickness ; the structure differing from all others in Ireland in being sur- 
 mounted by a small cross, which, however, is supposed, and with good 
 reason, to have been placed there long subsequently to the erection of the 
 building. Here, also, arc the extensive riiins of the archbishop's palace, once 
 a fortified building ; together with the remains of a priory and convent of 
 n\uis, one of the earliest institutions of the Presentation order in these 
 countries. So that even from this brief enumeration it will be seen that 
 Swords super-abounds in archaeological and ecclesiastical attractiveness. 
 Passing by the village of Corballis on the right, with the adjoining demesnes
 
 198 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 of Newbridge House, seat of Mr. Cobbe ; Seafield, Mr. Arthur's ; and New- 
 port, Mr. Uespard Taylor's, whose demesne incloses the picturesque ruins of 
 Landerstown Castle, we arrive at Donaeate Station, where may be seen 
 the ruins of an ancient chm-ch dedicated to St. Patrick. Hereabouts is said 
 to exist a vein of j^ure green porphyry. The next station is approached 
 thi'oiigh Portrane, on passing which we obtain a view of Lanibay Island, 
 wliich is the only small island on the eastern coast of Ireland set down in 
 the ancient map of Ptolemy. Lambay, wliich contains an old castle built 
 entirely of stone, without any timber, was purchased from the Usher family, 
 who had the original grant, by an ancestor of Lord Talbot de Malahide, the 
 present proprietor. It is 2 miles in length by l-j in breadth, containing 
 about 60 inhabitants, the rocky islets and caves, &:c., in the vicinity being 
 visited by numerous pleasure parties. Here it was that the melancholy 
 occui-rence took jilace last winter of the wreck of the emigrant barque 
 Tayleur, bound ii'om Liverjiool to Australia, with over a thousand souls on 
 board, including crew and passengers, of whom fully six hunch-ed perished. 
 The details of this disastrous event are doubtless too generally known to 
 require any repetition of them here. This noble barque, ii'on-built and of 
 1,000 tons bm-den, still lies where she foundered, close beneath the northern 
 cliffs of the island. The line now crosses a wide estuary by an embank- 
 ment, in the centre of wliich is a viaduct of timber 335 feet in length, 15 
 feet above high tides. To the right lies the village of Rogerstown, a coast- 
 guard station ; to the left the demesnes of Corduff and ^Vhitesto^vn ; and 
 then we approach the station adjoining the villages of Rush and Lusk, 
 close at hand ; the former famous as the site of a round tower, and its 
 church (sadly decayed), a massive square structure, having three of its 
 angles studded with circular towers of slender proportions ; wliilst at the 
 fourth angle, yet perfectly distinct and isolated from the comparatively 
 modern building, stands a veritable round tower, in beautiiul preservation, 
 loftily rising above the adjoining buikUng, to whose constructors, ages ago, 
 this tower was as mystic as it is to us at the present hour. In the village 
 stands a spacious Catholic chapel, with schools adjoining. Rush is cele- 
 brated for curing ling, cod, and other fish ; the manufacture of cod-liver oil 
 also being profitable. Here was born a snrt of Milesian Paul Jones, 
 Luke Ryan, a buccaneer, remarkable for daring pii-acics and privateering 
 exploits under commission of the French government dm'iug the American 
 war. 
 
 Rush to Skerries.— Leaving Rush station, we perceive to the right 
 Penure Park, seat of Sir- R. Palmer, Bart., formerly residence of the great 
 Duke of Ormond, containing some fine old pictui-es, as also rare vases, and 
 other antiques, from Pompeii. To the right, as we pass, is Lough Shinny, 
 affording good anchorage for vessels. Passing tlu'ough the deep cutting of 
 the hill of Baldungan, we leave to the left the ruins of Baldungan Castle 
 and Church, the former once a preceptory of the Knights Templars (twelfth ' 
 century) ; and, in the sixteenth centmy, the castle passed to the Howtli 
 tamily by marriage. After a gallant resistance, imder Thomas Fitzwilliam, 
 it was burnt by Cromwell, in 1641. To the right are the beautiful demesne 
 and mansion of Hacketstown ; and left, the equally beautiful mansion of 
 Milverton, seat of Mr. G. Woods. The limestone quarries, belonging to 
 ■Vlr. J. Hans Hamilton, M.P., in this neighbourhood, are most productive. 
 The rail soon after crosses the high-road by a handsome Aiaduct, and 
 brings us to Skerries.
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 199 
 
 Skerries to Balbriggan. — Skerries, formerly Holm Patrick, fi-om having 
 afforded shelter to St. Patrick when pursued, as the traditiou goes, by the 
 pagans, is well situated and thriving, owing to the proprietor of the ground, 
 Mr. Hans Hamilton ; its population, for the most jmrt, are engaged in 
 harbom- and deep-sea fishery. Some distance seaward are the fom- Skerry 
 Islands, on one of which are the ruins of an ancient church, of the epoch of 
 St. Patrick. Passing thi'ough Clianon-hill, by a deep short cutting, the line 
 runs along an embankment to Barnageera, near which are two of those vast 
 sepulchral mounds so numerous in Ireland. "When opened in 1840, a stone 
 coffin and some hinuan bones were found. Emerging from a short cutting, 
 the line brings us in sight of Ardgillan Castle, scat of Hon. and Rev. 
 E. Taylor. We next pass Hampton Hall, residence of ]Mr. G. A. Hamilton, 
 member for Dublin University, and late Secretary to the Treasury, who 
 liberally thi-ows open these grounds to the public. Perhaps no portion of 
 the line presents riclier featm-es than this ; the fine Avoods of Hampton on 
 one side, and the glorious sea view on the other, including Skerry Islands, 
 Cloghcr Head, and in the distance the blue peaks of the ]\Iourne moimtains. 
 To tiie left, about a mile, is Balrothery, on the liigh road from Dublin to 
 Balbriggan ; its only celebrity at present being biscuits of great excellence. 
 'ITiere is nothing vei-y attractive in the adjoining ruins of Balrothery Castle, 
 a square building of stone, roofed with tliick flags. On an adjacent hill 
 are the ruins of an ancient church, in whose graveyard are some remark- 
 ;;ble monuments. We next (twenty-one miles fi-om Dublin) approach the 
 town of 
 
 Balbriggan, familiar to English ears fi-om its stockings, the demand 
 for which productions is immensely increasing in London, forming the 
 principle staple of the Irish Work Society in Regent-street. Balbriggan is 
 a favourite resort for bathers. The Roman Catholic chapel is a fine build- 
 ing, and there is also a neat Protestant parochial church. A small stream, 
 which, in its coui'sc, gives motion to the macliinery of several cotton factories 
 and flour-mills, passes through the town, and empties itself into the harbour 
 — the only shelter for vessels between the bays of Dublin and Carlingford. 
 The present inheritor, INIr. G. A. Hamilton, M.P., continues to lay out large 
 ;ums in improvements. The Dublin Ballast Board built a pictm-esque little 
 lighthouse on the pier-head. The disastrous wrecks on this coast last 
 winter, attended with enormous loss of life and property, had the effect of 
 rousing the proprietary gentry and nobility in the district to pray govern- 
 ment for the appointment of a commissioner, to survey the coast and report 
 on the most eligible point for the erection of a refuge harboui*. Veins of 
 micaceous spar, copper, and sulphur, are in the neighbourhood. The 
 Balbriggan estate was held in fee by the Barnewall family pi-evious to the 
 ■ iA-il wars in the seventeenth century. It afterwards passed to the cele- 
 1 'rated Earl of TjTconnell. After the battle of the Boyne, William encamped 
 ld;s troops here. 
 
 Balbriggan to Drogheda. — The railway is earned over the inner 
 harboiu' across a fine viaduct, on eleven arches. Facing the harbour is 
 Tui-nerville, residence of Hon. St. John Butler, son of the late (thii'teenth) 
 Baron Dunboyne. The railway now, after passing tlu-ough a deep and 
 lengthened cvitting, crosses, by a viadiict of timber 180 feet long and 28 
 high, the Devlin river, dividing the counties of Dublin and Meath. On the 
 right, jutting into the sea, lies the mount of Knockingen, whose curious and 
 interesting liistory attracts the attention of the antiquarian, as the supposed
 
 200 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 scene of a great battle. The line, passing thi-ough some shallow cuttings, 
 next brings us in view of Gormanstown Castle, seat of the viscount of that 
 name, in whose family (now connected by marriage with the great English 
 Catholic house of Jcriungham, Lord Stafford), the property has been since 
 1357, when it was granted to Sir R. Preston, distinguished for devotion to 
 the fortunes of the Stuai't dynasty. The demesne is beautiful, the mansion 
 magnificent. To the left is the village of Stamtjllex, and also the demesne 
 of Harbourstown. Proceeding tlu'ough Ben Head, and by Mosuey, seat 
 of Mr. G. Pepper, and crossing the ^losney, the railway reaches the Xanny 
 river, a fine trout stream that never disappoints the angler. It is traversed 
 by a solid embankment, in whose centre is a timber viaduct 304 feet in 
 length, and fi'om this point the view upwards through the Xanny valley is 
 rich in the extreme. On the south is Ballygarth Castle, the ancient 
 demesne of Col. Pepper, I'eceivcd from Charles II., comprising 500 acres, and 
 furnishing the incident on which is founded Lover's inimitable " White 
 Horse of the Peppers." Xear the station are ^Ir. J. J. Tayhirs beautiful 
 pleasure-grounds of Corballis, open to visitors — its horticultural treasm-es 
 being the richest perhaps in Ireland. After clearing the Xanny Water, the 
 Line next reaches the station of 
 
 Laytown, formerly a sea-port of some note, now of no importance. To 
 the left is the village of Julianstown, the scene of a deadly defeat of the 
 royal forces by the parliamentary army in 1G41. Xext is the station of 
 
 Bettystown, or Betaghstown, a small watering-place, twenty-nine miles 
 from Dublin, on the sea shore, the seat of the i^roprietor of the estate, Mr. 
 R. Shepherd, being in the vicinity. To the left is Pilltown, residence of 
 !Mr. T. Brodigan, at whose suggestion public enterprise was first dii'ected 
 towards the line. The sea view from this point along the rail, as it winds 
 by the coast, is striking and beautiful. To the right is the small hamlet 
 of Calpe, where is a bath said to contain the remains of Calpa (son of 
 Milesius), drowned in the Boyne and biuied here ; St. Patrick landed at this 
 spot when proceeding to Tara. There arc traces of a castle which was stand- 
 ing in 1641, when it was levelled dui-ing the war. Further to the right is 
 Mornington, ancient scat of the Wellesley family — the stock whence, as the 
 world knows, Wellington derived his title and race. Dangan Castle, the 
 Duke's residence in boyhood, is about twenty miles fm-ther inland, near 
 Trim, County ]\Ieatli, and of which we speak elsewhere. There are some 
 interesting ruins in ]\Iornington, well worthy attention. 
 
 At the opposite side on the beach, entrance of the Boyne, stands the 
 Maiden Tower, sixty feet high by twelve square ; crowned by a battle- 
 mented terrace, which is gained by a narrow, winding staircase, and com- 
 manding a most extensive A^icw, inland and coastwise. A smaller tower of 
 solid stone, next the larger, forty feet high and seven in diameter, is the 
 Lady's Finger. These were landmarks, the Boyne at the entrance being 
 very intricate. The rail now enters a deej) cutting, emerging from which, 
 and crossing an embankment, brings us to the terminus, where from a 
 commanding height we look down upon the rich valley of the Boyne, and 
 on its banks the renoAvned 
 
 Town of Drogheda. — The view from the terminus begets anticipations 
 by no means sustained as the stranger enters the squalid and craggy streets, 
 especially at the southern or county Meatli side, the northern or more 
 improved portion being in county Louth, where general business is carried 
 on. The histoiy of the place belongs to remote antiqiiity j its name in
 
 iliri 
 
 
 '^'\**"^.,i,i B,^ 
 
 ^*tl) of "hchmb.
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 201 
 
 Irish signifying " the Bridge of the Ford," early historians termed it Pons 
 Vadi and Pontana Civitas. Its antiquities are as numerous as interesting. 
 The remains of the Dominican eonvent, founded in 1224 by Lucas de Nctter- 
 ville, Archbishop of Armagh, bear about them all that can be well conceived 
 of architectui-al beauty in decay. Its tower, known as Magdalen's Steeple, 
 resting on a Gothic arch of most graceful proportions, gives a fine concep- 
 tion of what must have been the beauty and the harmony of the entire, 
 despite sad havoc by Cromwell, the record of whose campaigns in this 
 neighbourhood aboimds in evidence of needless ferocity calculated infinitely 
 to damp posterity's admiration of the otherwise heroic Protector. Imme- 
 diately above the arch, which siipports Magdalen's Steeple, arc two cham- 
 bers, with eight windows, carved and highly ornamented in most florid 
 Gotliic, testifying the perfection to which that style had been brought at 
 a remote period in Ireland. In the hall of this church the northern 
 chieftains made submission to Richard II., and within its walls many other 
 incidents connected with the history of Ireland took place. The ruins of 
 St. Mary's, founded in the reign of Edward I. ; steeple of the Augustinian 
 Priory (ascribed to St. Patrick) ; St. IMary's Hospital, founded thirteenth 
 century ; Priory of St. Lawrence ; the Gray Friary ; and the smaller 
 foundations of St. James and St. Bennett, are the principal ecclesiastical 
 edifices, and present an aggregrate of antiquities seldom met anywhere, 
 Ireland itself hardly excepted. St. Lawrence's Gate, the only remaining 
 portion of the old walls, bears ample testimony — as does the picturesque 
 ruin called the West Gate, or Butter Gate on the Meath side — of the 
 oofiginal defences of Drogheda, Avhich suffered more from the marauding 
 plunderer and ambitious invader than almost any other town in Ireland, as 
 recorded by Dalton. The linen trade has rendered it famous for tipwards of 
 a century, and is not only recovering, but springing into healthy life in this 
 locality and thi'oughout Ireland. Chevalier Claussen, by rendering flax 
 capable of being manufactured in the ordinary cotton-spinning machinery, 
 opened incalculable benefits to Ireland. Drogheda lies fifty-seven miles 
 from Belfast, and twenty-three from Dublin ; population about 24,000. The 
 export trade is considerable, particularly in cattle, corn, provisions, and 
 country produce, generally sujiplied by the surrounding fertile districts of 
 Meath, Louth, &c. A fine fleet of powerful steamers belong to the port and 
 ply between it and Liverpool. Its principal attractions, many of which our 
 volume incidentally notices, are in the immediate neighbour-hood, which 
 comprises some of the most pleasing and diversified scenery, exclusive 
 of the field whereon was fought the famous battle, within a half hour's 
 walk of the town, near the hamlet of Oldbridge, on the banks of the 
 Boyne. 
 
 Tliosc who would linger on the scenery of this river, for the sake of 
 historic associations, should provide themselves with Mr. Wilde's " Boyne 
 and Blackwatcr," — it is much the latest and the best ; contains a plan of the 
 field, and various illustrations of the most celebrated spots in the district. 
 Another good one, not a little curious from its military opinions being 
 rather difi'erent to those generally entertained, is that in Banim's novel of 
 the " Bojnie Water ;" though a work of imagination is not exactly an 
 authority on such points, the reader will find much suggestive matter in it, 
 and in a shape moi-e attractive than mere dry narrative. But it is to the 
 third vohune of Macaulay (who has lately personally exjilored the whole 
 locale of the conflict) that anticipation will necessarily be turned ; and, j)ar-
 
 202 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 ticipating in tlie general eagerness, we do not trespass on the province of 
 the liistorian in this respect. 
 
 The environs of Drogheda possess many attractions to lure the tourist 
 from his road. Amongst the most remarkable scats is Slane Castle, re- 
 sidence of ^larquis of Conyngham, where George IV. spent a few days in 
 1821. Near it are some famous ecclesiastical ruins: also two other struc- 
 tm'cs, formerly of great feudal celebrity, now of vast beauty, in decay. Turn 
 which way we will in this district, arcliitectm-al antiquities of every order 
 of attraction invite us, the mere enumeration of which would make a formi- 
 dable encroaclmient on om- space. The traveller, once he alights in Meath, 
 either towards Trim on the ^Midland line ; or fi-om Drogheda, rambling 
 along the Boyne, as we are now doing ; or by the branch to Xavan, which 
 we shall pn-cscntly traverse after returning to Drogheda : it is perfectly 
 immaterial in which dii'cction he moves, objects almost innumerable of the 
 Idnd meet him. Three miles fi'om Drogheda, on the left, are the ruins of 
 the Abbey of Monasterboice ; two chapels; a round tower, now 110 feet 
 high, formerly much higher (top struck off by lightning), beautifully dimi- 
 nisliing fi-om a base of eighteen feet, in the manner of a Tuscan pillar, its 
 main chcumference bemg fifty-two feet. The large stone cross, called 
 St. Boync's Cross, in the adjoining graveyard, is deemed the most ancient 
 religious relic in Ireland. Should the tom-ist have at all a spice of the 
 antiquarian, he will, either before or immediately after visiting Monaster- 
 boice, consult " The Ecclesiastical Architecture of Ireland, anterior to the 
 Anglo-Norman Invasion ; comprising an Essay on the Origm and Uses of 
 the Round Towers of Ireland, which obtained the Gold ^ledal and Prize of 
 the Royal Irish Academy : by George Petrie, R.H.A., Y.P.R.A.," who is 
 received by many as an infallible authority on tliis much-disputed question. 
 The remains of the crosses in tliis fine ruin are enclosed in a cii-cle emble- 
 matic of the eternity of the faith. The largest, the Great Cross, is twenty- 
 seven feet high, composed of two stones, a work of infinite beauty, as it 
 stands mid the ruins of hallowed fanes and long-forgotten altars, presenting 
 an object of most contemplative interest. The antiquity of these ruins is so 
 remote, that all said or written about them is little better than mere 
 surmise : but there can be small doubt of one portion of the building having 
 been of a much later period than another. In the neighboiu'hood of Monas- 
 terboice is the no less famous ^Mellifont Abbey, once of vast magnitude and 
 splendoui-, erected 1142, and granted to Su- Gerald ^Moore at the dissolution 
 of monastic institutions. St. Bernard's Chapel must have been one of the 
 most elegant and highly embellished structm-cs of the Xorman or early 
 English pointed style in Ireland. The tom-ist, on leaving the battle-field at 
 Oldbridge, should visit Mellifont Abbey first, and then Monasterboice, 
 although we have reversed thcu" order here. 
 
 At either of the principal Drogheda hotels, Simcocks's or Keappock's, we 
 may be accommodated, at ten minutes' notice, with a well-horsed car, and 
 ■^dsit Ardee, Collon, Duleek, Sec. — giving, if possible, one long summer's day 
 to that section of the beautiful vale of Meath, extending from Drogheda 
 east, toward Navan, Trim, and Kells. Far as the eye can reach, pastui'cs, 
 perhaps the richest in the world, are dotted with excellent tillage farms. 
 These are the plains whence come the fat beeves wiiich throng the quays of 
 Dublin on their way to the English markets. In the centre of this plain 
 rises the thrice-renowned Hill of '• Tara of the Kings," in whose halls the 
 chiefs of Ireland met in council, where princes feasted and bards sang,
 
 DUBLIN TO BPXFAST. 203 
 
 where Ollamh -wrote and Patrick preached ; yet of all its proud memories, 
 there scarcely remains a vestige to tell of former greatness — Moore's im- 
 mortal dirge, embodying the very spu-it of desolation proper to the place. 
 
 Supposing the tourist has seen Drogheda and its environs, and is about 
 journeying north, the first object is the 
 
 BoYNE Viaduct. — Composed of fifteen arches of sixty-one feet span, 
 twelve south, and three on the north side of the river, for which there are 
 three openings, one centre bay 250 feet clear waterway, and two side bays 
 VIo feet each. Between these openings rise light and lofty piers to support 
 the superstructiu-e, which is at such a level as leaves ninety feet in the clear 
 above high water for the navigation. The masonry is of calp limestone, 
 quarried immediately beside the site of the viaduct, excepting the quoins 
 and other smoothly di-essed parts, and these arc of the white limestone 
 obtained at Skerries. The greatest load the bridge can ever have to carry 
 would be a doiible traiji of locomotives, which would weigh on the three 
 centre spans about 1,060 tons, and its own weight 740, total 1,800 tons; the 
 weight, therefore, which the bridge is calculated to bear before breaking is 
 7,200 tons. The engineer-in-chief is Sir J. Macueill, the first to bring 
 forward lattice bridges of wrought iron, and has constructed several on 
 Irish railways of moderate spans. The preliminary investigations, and the 
 working out of the detail of this design, were intrusted to ISIr. J. Barton, 
 acting engineer to the company ; the execution is carried out under Ms 
 inspection and that of ]Mr. Alex. Schaw, resident engineer, v^•ho lives at the 
 works. The bridge will cost about £70,000, probably the cheapest in the 
 kingdom, considering spans, size, and materials. By this link the northern 
 communication of Ireland is immensely facilitated, and Belfast placed 
 within fom- hours of Dublin. 
 
 Branch to Navan and Kells. — To view this district properly, it will 
 be well to proceed by the branch to Navan, in about forty minutes. There 
 is only a single line ; but it is intended to complete the double rail, and the 
 extension of the line is progressing to Kells, whither we cannot accompany 
 the tom-ist ; but we may assm-e liim that there awaits him an antiquarian 
 treat second only to that which he has already experienced at Mellifont. 
 Navan — one of the earliest settlements by the English in Mcath, or indeed 
 within the Pale, situate at the confluence of the Boyne and Blackwater — is 
 not very preiiossessing, the streets being narrow and ill paved ; but a con- 
 siderable trade in country produce is carried on, and there ai*e also 
 several mills and flax, wool, and paper factories. The produce of the dis- 
 trict, and also the imports of necessary articles, are conveyed to Navan fi-om 
 Drogheda by the Boyne navigation. The antiquities comprise the ruins of 
 Athlumney Chm-ch and Castle, and the Pound Tower of 1 >onaghmore, like- 
 wise some interesting ecclesiastical remains in the neighbourhood, together 
 with the Bridge and ancient Church of Clady. Taking a car at Navan, and 
 driving wliich way we may, fresh ruins — that is, others than those we have 
 ah-eady inspected — meet us on all sides, each group, if possible, more pic- 
 tiu'esque than the former. Few, however, are more achnired than those of 
 Liscarton Castle, which, with the church and the thatched house, forms 
 what jNIr. AMlde truly calls " a most charming picture ;" perhaps, indeed, 
 the most charming of any in all this region of castellated antiquities — unless 
 it be the inimitably graceful Scurloughstown Castle, within easy reach of 
 the former, and whose interesting history, as well as that of all the others 
 we have enumerated, will be found in the " Boyne and Blackwater," so
 
 DANGAN CASTLE, FROM THE ROAD; EARLY HOME OF WELLINGTON. DRAWN BY MAHOXY.
 
 ROOM AT DANGAN CASTLE, IN WHICH WELLIXUXOX IS kEPUTliD TO HAVE BEEN BORN. 
 
 ?t^^ 
 
 OLD GATE-HOUSE AT DANGAN CASTLE. DHAWN BT MAHONT.
 
 206 
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 frequently referred to. Paramount, however, beyond all and every of these 
 ancient attractions, is the one great modern one, whose name \\c need not 
 name, but leave our artist to aftbrd the reader the first peep at the early 
 home of him whose renown has filled the world, and whose removal fi-om 
 amongst us seems to be hardly yet realised to the national mind, so much 
 was he a part of the country's being. Four miles from Trim (ride Galway 
 route) is what is left of Dangan Castle, which, in conformity with the 
 liitherto popular bcKcf, we have described as the birthplace of Wellington, 
 though he really was born, April 29, 1769, in No. 24, iii Merrion-street, 
 Dublin, at present occupied by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, at the time 
 the town residence of his fiither, the Earl of Mornington. That his infancy 
 was spent at the County Meath family-seat is indisputable ; and the room 
 
 THE OLD KITCHEN AT DANGAN CASTLE. DRAWN BY MAHONT. 
 
 which figures in our artist's sketch as the actual apartment in which his 
 Grace first saw the light, and still pointed out as such on the spot, served 
 as the nursery of himself and eldest brother, the Marquis of Wellesley. Be 
 this as it may, there are abundant associations of the hero connected with 
 this pile (long since passed out of the Wellesley family, as also out of that 
 of Feargus O'Connor's, its subsequent o-\\mers) to render the labom-s of Mr. 
 Mahony most acceptable to the tourist. According to the Rev. Csesar 
 Otway, this was the very land to have i^roduced such a hero as the immortal 
 Field-Marshal. " No wonder the kings of Meath were so often monarchs 
 of Ireland. No wonder the liills of Tara, of Usneach, of Ski-een, were so 
 famous. Here was the great fair of Tailtecn, where all the Irish lads and 
 lasses met to get married, and Avhere, as now at Ballinasloc, was a splendid 
 show of fine cattle. In those primitive days, along the sides of the hill of
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 207 
 
 Tailtecn -^-cre ranged pretty gii-ls and brave boys ; and then, after the 
 young people had tor a sufficient time cast sheep's eyes at one another, and 
 the parents had made proper bargains and arranged family settlements, 
 matches were made ; then games and sports and feats of activity began, 
 similar, and not perhaps inferior to the Isthmean, or Olpnpic games of 
 Greece. Human natm-e is the same in all times and places ; the yoimg 
 must marry and be given in marriage." 
 
 Returning to Navan by car, we obtain various glimpses of the Boyne, 
 winding thi'ough a richly-wooded country, with the risirig giomids here and 
 there studded uith handsome residences of the ^leath gentry. Taking the 
 return trams fi'om Navau, we reach Drogheda in time for dijiner, and start 
 northward as convenient. 
 
 Drogheda to Dunpalk. — The Belfast Junction, fifty-five miles in length, 
 fi-om Drogheda to Belfast, was constructed by Su- J. Macneill, who resides 
 near Dundalk. The Great Boyne Viaduct connects tliis with the Drogheda 
 and Dublin railway, and thus admits of direct transit to Ballymena, and 
 thence at once to the Causeway. The Belfast Jmiction train, on leaving 
 Drogheda, will scarcely have come to its full speed when we find om-selves 
 in Louth, the smallest county in Ireland, fertile, scenery agreeable, and 
 abounding in many remnants of antiquity as the centre of the privileged 
 region known as the Pale. Tln-oughout, it contains old castles, forts, raths, 
 and other memorials of by -gone greatness, which bring vividly before lis 
 the stirring events recorded in mcdiicval Irish history ; but of these the 
 English or foreign reader \^ ill now have had a superabmidance ; so proceed 
 we on om- journey without fm-ther inquiry. Eight miles north of Drogheda 
 is Dunleer, a place of little importance, belonging principally to Mr. R. 
 Monte:^quieu Bellew, descended from one of the first Anglo-A^orman settlers 
 in Ireland. Xext comes Castle BelHngham, famous for ale, and one of the 
 model villages of Ireland. The magnificent demesne of Mr. A. E. BelHng- 
 ham contains groups of yew trees, the equals of which arc scarcely to be 
 found in Ireland, save perhaps in HoUybrook and Kih-uddery, County 
 Wicklow, as already described. We next approach 
 
 Dundalk, the county town of Louth, commanding a considerable export 
 trade. Several large steamers ply to Liverpool ; and there are two breweries, 
 a distillery, and a pin manirfactory, besides a flax-spinning factory, which 
 gives emplopnent to a number of chikben. The scenery around is peculiarly 
 beautiful, though Dundalk is built upon low marshy ground, bounded nortL 
 by the estuary of Castletown liiver, and flanked on the west by the demesne 
 of Earl Hodeu, the excellent lord of the manor, who has a fancifully-con- 
 structed cottage in the town. Dundalk, anciently Dmidelgan, in the poems 
 of Ossian, and even later, claims high antiquity. Passing over the wars of 
 the Anglo-Xormans, we find that in the reign of Edward the Second it was 
 a royal city. Edward Bruce stormed Dunclalk, wliich he afterwards made 
 his chosen residence ; and here he was solemnly crowned King of Ireland, 
 and maintained for two years the pageantry of a court, until, in 1318, on 
 the hill of Foighard, he lost crown and life. It successfully resisted sieges 
 from the Irish, under the O'Neills. In 1649, Monk (Lord Albemarle) held 
 it for the king, but insubordination in the garrison forced its surrender to 
 Lord Inchiquin. In 1689 it was garrisoned for James II., but abandoned 
 on the approach of Schomberg. The family of Hamilton were created 
 Barons of Clancboy and Viscounts Limerick in 1719, and Earls of Clan- 
 brassil in 1756 ; and Robert, fii'st Earl of Rodcu, married the sister and
 
 208 
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 heiress of the last Earl of Clanbrassil, and so became the proprietor of 
 Dundalk. His beautiful scat of Tollymore Park, in the neighbourhood, is 
 one of the most cclcbratod in Ireland, and rendered readily accessible to the 
 public, in conformity with his lordship's unvarying courtesy and kindliness 
 in all the relations of private life. The town is prospering, as the commer- 
 cial spirit of its people so well entitles it to do ; ^Ir. Thackeray, for instance, 
 devoting a far larger portion of his book to its position and prospects than 
 to any other section of Ireland he visited. 
 
 Dundalk to Xewry. — Leaving Dundalk, the whole way to Newiy is 
 extremely pleasant, and Xewry itself is a worthy terminus to such an intro- 
 duction, it being one of the most agreeable towns in any part of Ireland, 
 look at it in what light we may. Xewry is far too important a place to be 
 dismissed in a page or two, wliich is, unfortunately, all our space affords. 
 We would, therefore, recommend the tourist who may make the place his 
 head-quarters for an excui'siou through the beautiful ^lourne district, of 
 
 NEWRY, LOOKING UO»VN THE IIIVEU TOft'AllUS WAKKKXPOJLNT — SUMSEX. DRAWN BY MAHOXY. 
 
 which it is the capital, to ^mt himself in the hands of Mr. Greer, bookseller, 
 in the ^larket-place, and for a very trifling outlay he will be provided with 
 information, addressed to mind and eye, that will leave nothing to be 
 desii'^d. It is, however, from its proximity to Rosstrevor, that Newry is 
 chiefly resorted to. Rosstrevor is reached within a couple of miles (as far 
 as Warrenpoint) by the short rail from Xewry, the Une being owned, and 
 also the steamers in connexion with it, plying to Liverpool, by Mr. W. 
 Dargan, who, as the contractor for that truly noble work, the Xewry Xavi- 
 gation, takes a peculiar interest in this locality. As an evidence of such 
 interest, it may be remarked that, for the first time in his life, notwith- 
 standing his deserved preeminence in the railway world, he has consented 
 to become a director of a company — one for the formation of a line between 
 Newry and Armagh, and which will complete the obligations he has 
 imposed on tliis important locality. 'Sir. Dargan has been longer j)romi- 
 neutly connected with the neighbourhood of Xewry, and has perhaps a
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 209 
 
 larger amount of his private fortune embarked in the immediate district, 
 than in any other part of Ireland. 
 
 RossTRKVOR contains about 200 well-built houses, cottages, and villas ; 
 bounded on one side by the tliickly-wooded Slicv Ban and minor mountains, 
 on the other by cultivated slopes and rich meadow holms, covered with 
 plantations, and studded with elegant villas. There is no trade and no 
 
 rl-CJ 
 
 boss's M0>"UME>'T, KOSSlRKVO.l. 
 
 bustle here. It has, altogether, an aristocratic and exclusive apjjearance, 
 and is a spot of surpassing attraction. Near the centre of the town stood 
 the massive castle of Rory M'Gennis, Idnsman of one of the Lords of Ivcigh, 
 who formerly owned this region, and to whom Rosstrevor owes its origin. 
 Scarcely a vestige remains, where stood, within the memory of the present 
 generation, the ruined walls that once re-echoed to the wassailry of the bold 
 
 I cSSTHi.-VOK. 
 
 M-Gennis and his clan. Yet it has not passed away without a lament from 
 the harp of one so worthy to sing its dirge — the " Wizard of the North :" — 
 
 Ah, Clandeboy ! thy friendly floor 
 Sliov Donard's oak shall light no more, 
 Nor Oweii"s harp, beside the blaze, 
 
 Tell maiden's love, or hero's praise ! 
 The mantling brambles hide thy hearth, 
 Centre of hospitable mirth ! 
 
 All undistinguished in the glade 
 Thj' sire's glad home is prostrate laid ; 
 Their vassals wander wide and far, 
 Serve foreign lords in distant war, 
 And now the stranger's sons enjoy 
 The lovely woods of Clandeboy !
 
 210 
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 The sail from Warrenpoint is inexpressibly charming, combining, in 
 infinite perfection, every clement of beauty, if not of actual subUmity, iiJ 
 marine and pastoral scenery. But it is the bay — the inimitable Bay oi 
 Carlingford — which is the great lion of the scene, for all other beauties sinh 
 into insignificance beside the bright blue of these deep transparent waters. 
 Right across it, directly opposite to "NVarrenpoint, is the beautiful little 
 Church of Omeath, with a School-house nestling beside it, seen in oui 
 sketch of O'Hagan's Hotel, from the fi'ont windows of wliich is obtained a 
 splendid prospect, singularly beautiful. 
 
 Caelingford — abounding in some splendid memorials of an important 
 past, and, on that score, most deserving of inspection, but quite out of oui 
 
 EOSSTREVOR QUAY. 
 
 toui'Lst's ticket track just now— belongs to the Marquis of Anglesey, and is 
 celebrated for its oysters, superior to every other te staccous or crustaccous 
 dweller in the deep. The fish is indescribably delicious — piquant and 
 luscious — at once an incentive and a sedative to the stomach, simultaneously 
 awakening and appeasing hunger, and almost realising the aspii'ation of the 
 epicui-e in Pclham, when he sighed for " perpetual apjietite — a digestive 
 houii that should renew her vii-ginity every time she was embraced." If 
 any one doubt this, all we say is — let him try. 
 
 The sea scenery around the whole Mourne coast, up to Belfast Lough, 
 has long been famous ; and the inland beauties of the clistrict, commencing 
 at Newiy, and extending as far and all about Lough Neagh, is of corres- 
 ponding attractiveness. Newry, Wairenpoint, and the various towns, of
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 211 
 
 wliich there arc probably not less than fifty all round the coast and in the 
 inland of the fine county of Down (in which we are when we have crossed 
 the Ncwry Water), is the subject of an useful illustrated volume, entitled, 
 " Carlingford Bay, and the Watering Places in its Vicinity," to be had at 
 
 WARKENl'OINT. 
 
 Greer's, in Newry. Among the places therein noticed are Newcastle, Ban- 
 bridge, Tandi-agce, Rathfriland, Castlewellan, Dundi-um, Scaforde, Ballyna- 
 hinch, Downpatrick, Ardglass, Strangford, Portafcrry, Comber, Newton 
 Ardes, Bangor, Hollywood, Antrim, Shane's Castle, Randalstown, Dungan- 
 
 OMEATH, OPPOSITE 'WARHENPOINT. 
 
 iivjn, Charlemount, Armagh, and Markethill. All these and many more 
 (north) might be fairly included in oiu- present torn', as entitled to more or 
 less consideration ; but as it is impossible we could bestow the smallest 
 paragraph upon each, and no adequate particulars on even the more promi- 
 
 P 2
 
 212 
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 nent, wc must beg the reader to Imny forward to Belfast, first taking 
 another view of t'le next Largest town to it, and one wliich, wlien the bar at 
 the mouth of Carliiigford Bay shall be removed, as it loiig ago ouglit to have 
 
 NAREOW WATER HOUSE, NEAR NESVRT. 
 
 been, will fully keep pace iu prosjierity with the great Xorthcra industrial 
 capital of Ireland. 
 
 TOWN OF NEWET, SECOXD VIEW. 
 
 Belfast. — Om* aiTangements not pennitting of municipal details, we can 
 attempt no description of so large and important a town as Ik'lfast, on the 
 Lough of the same name, and at the mouth of the Lagan. Every reader is
 
 ENIUAKCE TO liKLFAST LOVGII, FROM OITOSITE QIEEN's ISLAND— CAUIilCKIKUGVS, &C., IN TUB 
 DISTANCE. DRAWN BY MAUONY. 
 
 SKETCU IN UlEEN-SaVAUE, BT.I.FAST. DKA'VN BY MAHONY.
 
 214 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 aware that, owing to its being the seat of the Knen manufacture — but 
 chiefly because of the self-reliant, public-spirited energy of its inhabitants, 
 who overcame every disadvantage of an imperfect maritime position — it has 
 become the most prosperous of all the towns in Ireland, and in bustle, ' 
 activity, and methodical despatch of business, may challenge comparison 
 with any of equal population in Great Britain. Its mills and factories, its ' 
 crowded docks and wharves, impart an aspect combining the commercial 
 and mercantile featui'es both of Liverpool and Manchester ; while there is 
 an air of cleanliness, health, and breadth, that give decided advantage over 
 the great Lancashii-e foci of trading animation. Its streets are, for the 
 most part, well-built, and, as the modern Irish Athens, it necessai-ily has 
 numerous edifices, worthy of its repute, devoted to educational and intellec- 
 tual purposes, while its religious structm-es are many and fine. At almost 
 any hotel the tom-ist will obtain, either gratuitously, or for a few pence, 
 little books containing copious particulars of its rise, progress, population, 
 and commercial and other statistics ; and some of these publications 
 embrace the leading peculiarities of the whole county of Antrim, fi'om the 
 shores of Lough Neagh to the extremity of the coast for many miles around, 
 of course including the Causeway. AMth these facilities, it would be an 
 unjustifiable waste of space here to give details which, at best, would be 
 meagre and imperfect ; and accordingly we commit the reader to the 
 economic information just indicated, tliere being much more elaborate 
 publications for those who can afford money to pm-chase or time to perase 
 them. We piay add, however, that, generally speaking, the inhabitants 
 being proud of their flom-ishing town, and all that pertains to it, and not 
 less so of the beautiful scenery in its vicinage, are ever willing to put the 
 visitor in possession of all local experience that may be of gratification to 
 him. This is the case, too, with the manufactui-ers in the neighboiu'hood, 
 and, indeed, of all engaged in flax preparation in the remarkable district 
 of which Belfast is the head-quarters. The stranger, if not ah-eady familiar 
 with it, as he ought from its publicity in industrial circles, will soon find 
 that, like Atkinson's in poplins and tabinets, in Dublin, the leviathan name 
 in the Belfast hnen trade is ^Nlulholland's, which family carries on the 
 manufactm-e in all its gradations, except the wearing. An inspection of 
 their establishments is the great object of the majority of ^•isitors to Belfast, 
 and at the inns the means of accomplishing it may be ascertained. 
 
 Belfast to the Causeway. — The coast road and onwards by Coleraine, 
 taking the inland road on returning, tlirough Ballymoney and Ballymena, 
 is usually preferred. Starting by the Belfast and Ballymena Railway at 
 6 A.M., we arrive at the Carrickfergus Jimction in thii'ty minutes, thi'ough a 
 weU-cultivated country, skirting the banks of Belfast Lough to CaxTick- 
 fergus, the comity town of Antrim, the bold features of the coast becoming 
 momentarily more prominent. Leaving the ti'ain at the Junction, and 
 taking the mail-car for Ballycastle, the road to which partakes of the hilly 
 character so peculiar to Down and this part of Antrim, we pass througn 
 Carrickfergus, where attention will be chiefly attracted by the castle com- 
 manding the entrance of Belfast Lough. A few hom-s may be spent with 
 great profit in Carrickfergus ; but if the toiu'ist is impatient to proceed, and 
 does not linger there, he arrives at forty minutes past nine at Lame, 
 thi'ough some charming scenery. If in search of the picturesque, he will 
 prefer the old liilly road, full of ruts and hollows, from Carrickfergus to 
 Lame ; but when time is an object, the mail-car route is most eligible. Near
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 215 
 
 Lame is a bold headland fronting the bay, where stand the interesting 
 rmns of Oldcriicct Castle, once the protection of tJie town ; and here are 
 also a Uruidical altar and a rocking stone, with various other interesting 
 remains. Two miles from Larne, are the Lallagh Braes amphitheatre of 
 cliffs. From Larne to Glcnarm the road traverses the margin of the sea, 
 and on a clear day, particularly before the sun has raised ocean mists, one 
 may catch glimpses of Argylcshu-e ; while foui- miles west of Larne the 
 lofty Agnew's Hill commands a magnificent view of the Scottish coast. 
 Proceeding from Larne, the first object in the architectural way is Cairn 
 Castle, or Carrigh Castle, to which is attached a legend, m the " Fair 
 liosamond " style, of the frail wife of the I'rince of Breffiii. The scenery 
 now becomes more and more beautiful, and for about six miles, on a summer 
 forenoon, offers a lovely alternation of land and sea, the facilities for enjoy- 
 ing the beauties of this romantic coast being lately extended by a new 
 road. 
 
 Glenarm nestles within the embrace and at the feet of two majestic 
 hills, where is a richly-wooded glen, fronting the ocean to the east, but pro- 
 tected from the bitter north and boisterous Avest winds by the hill of 
 Naehore, 1,179 feet high. It may be set down as one of the model towns of 
 its class, and is always remembered with pleasure by the tom-ist, who, 
 having left Belfast by six a.m., reaches this place before' half-])ast eleven. 
 
 Garron Point. — Leavmg Glenarm, catching a view up the glen wliich in- 
 tersects the noble deer-park of the Earl of Antrim, we proceed to Cushandall, 
 thi-ough the village of Cairnlough, where, if so minded, we can be well 
 accommodated at a comfortable hotel established luider the patronage of the 
 present Dowager Marchioness of Londonderry. Here again the roads 
 diverge, the new, along the coast, being level and comfortable, whilst the 
 old pui'sues the very imeven tenour of its way over brae and hill, yet affording '^, 
 to the sketcher superior advantages from interesting points. Passing the ?/ 
 demesne of Drumnasole and Nappan, and skirting the thriving plantations 
 clothing the Naehore mountain, we come, after a diive of eight miles, to a 
 very renowned spot in Causeway scenery, Garron Point, whence, in clear 
 weather, miles on miles of the Scottish coast are brought within view. 
 Even the Scottish mountains far inland may be seen, and the bold outline 
 of the Mull of Cantyre is so clearly defined, that occasionally it seems not 
 ten miles distant. The great local attraction of this spot is the view which 
 its vicinity affords of the fine mansion and demesne of the late Marquis of 
 Londonderry, for it is only the late one who was known as its owner. 
 
 Red Bay. — Rounding Garron Point, we enter upon the sublime moun- 
 tains and sea scenery of Red Bay. Before us lies a vast expanse of water, 
 which in summer sunsets reflects the bold outlines of the magnificent 
 surrounding hills. At the entrance of one of the gorges of the mountain 
 glens, dipping deeply into the recesses of the hills, and forming outlets for 
 the streams which pour in cascades down from the highland spring, we find 
 the ruins of an old church. Occupying a distinguished position at the side 
 of what must have been the chancel of the builduig, is a tombstone, whose 
 motto and inscription reveal the grave of the great chieftain, Shane O'Neill, 
 the Lahh clharif/, or Red Hand, the cognisance of this branch of his 
 warrior family, being yet distinct. 
 
 Cushandall to Fairhead and Ballycastle. — Passing and leaving 
 to om- right the beautiful and populous locality of Glenarriffe, we reach 
 Cushandall. AVe may observe, that after passing Garron Point, the scenery
 
 216 
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 and geological features of the coast begin to assume the characteristic aspect 
 of the basaltic structure which appears in such i3erfection at the Giant's 
 Causeway. The various strata constituting the entire line of coast may be 
 readily distinguished. Limestone and basalt in alternate layers, Avith occa- 
 sional traces of columnar deposit, are more and more frequent the nearer we 
 approach the Causeway. In the vicinity of Cushandall's pretty village 
 may be traced the remains of an extensive ancicrit fortification. Tradition 
 names it as the bii'thplace of Ossian ; and, strangely enough, the oldest 
 and most gifted sennachie and chronicler in the village is named Mac- 
 pherson, suggestive of Chm-chill's lines : — 
 
 Ossian, suhlimcst, simplest bard of all. 
 Whom Enirli'-h infidels Marphcr,-on call. 
 
 F.VIICIIEAD, FROM BALLTCASTLE, GIANT's CAVSEWAY. llRAWN BY IIAIIOXY. 
 
 Next is Cushcndun, once called Newtown Glens, a collection of fishermen's 
 cottages, to which lately have been added some good houses, with a feAV 
 pretty villas. The next striking object is the magnificent ■viaduct of Glendun 
 (cost £17,000), tliree noble arches spanning the valley of Glendun at a 
 height of eighty feet in the centre. Far beneath winds the Awe Dun, or 
 BroAvn River, its placid and silvery stream generally the reverse of brown : 
 but when swollen by rains, it assumes the yellow tiu'bid appearance wlueh has 
 conferred its generic appellation. The aspect of the glen from the valley 
 beneath, with the bridge spanning its breadth at an aiiy height, exliibits *a 
 pictm-e well worth the attention of the sketchcr. In approaching Eally- 
 castle, tliree miles to the Avest, stands the celebrated promontoiy of Fair 
 Head, stupendously toweruig above the ncighboiuing headlands. Proceeding 
 cautiously to the verge of the precipitous rock which beetles over the sea, 
 one looks down with mingled feelings of awe and delight at the vast chasm, 
 beneath whose floor is the purple ocean, heaving in ceaseless swell ; whilst, 
 springing from the depths of its waters, gigantic colunnis of nature's own 
 indescribably beautiful order upheave their shafts at the face and sides of 
 the cliff to heights averao-in^ 200 feet.
 
 DI'T^LIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 217 
 
 HE GIANT'S CAUSEAVAY.— Haviiifrnow 
 arrived at the nearest spot to which a 
 public conveyance can bring- us to the 
 great Lion of the North, the visitor should 
 first secure his quarters in the principal 
 inn, or in one of the other two small but 
 cleanly and well-kept Ballycastle hos- 
 telries ; secondly, engage an experienced 
 guide ; if very old, so much the better ; for 
 he is sure to have a son, a grandson, or 
 relative in the shape of a "boy," who may 
 be fifteen or forty, but still a boy. The 
 " man " is fraught with legendary lore 
 anent the Causeway and its vicinity ; 
 whilst the " boy," generally sioeaking,"is 
 an athletic, obliging fellow, who will lend 
 a hand at climbing a rock or treading a 
 difficult path, and tell you a topographic 
 tale as he tugs at the oar whilst convey- 
 ing you from jjoint to point on this amphi- 
 bious expedition, for it would be nothing 
 without the aqueous portion of it. De- 
 tailed description would be quite futile, 
 within such limits as this book affords ; 
 besides, if there were as many desci'iptions 
 of this unparagoned phenomenon as there 
 arc sides to its myriad pillars, not one 
 aive " general satisfaction," _ _ 
 
 =-^*=" 
 
 A Vendor of Specimens.— The Ilishland- 
 naan's Bonnet, and the Chair in whicli 
 the Giant sat wliile his men built the 
 Cause wa\'. Drawn by Mahony. 
 
 would 
 
 as each succeeding visitor would 
 find new matter for research, new 
 objects of wonder, and new themes 
 of delight. AA'e can readily imagine 
 the feelings of a man endowed with 
 high intellect, cultivated by study, 
 and refined by connnunication with 
 kindred minds, approaching and 
 examining what may be called this 
 clief-(Vauvre of Nature's most eccen- 
 tric exactitude, for such it really is — 
 cajjrice and accuracy contending for 
 mastery. "We can also suppose tlie 
 cogitations of the materialist, who 
 accounts for these woncU-ous forma- 
 tions by the laws of crystallization. 
 But there the Causeway stands, in 
 most minds creating astonishment as 
 hostile to the theories of the learned 
 as to the wild legend which gives 
 the popular name to this extra- 
 ordinars locality. 
 
 Accompanied by his giiide, the 
 toui'ist, leaving Ballycastle, proceeds 
 
 The Giant's Well, and Causeway Gu'.de.
 
 218 
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 along the margin of the coast ; and after a tramp of about tkree miles, 
 passes the village of Ballinatoy, a little beyond which the shore takes a 
 sharp turn to the right ; and here, uplifting its spire-Hke rocks above the 
 waves, appears an object that he will be immediately familiar with, from 
 the countless di-awings and engravings he has been seeing smce childhood — 
 the Islet of Carrickarede, separated from the main land by a channel twenty 
 yards wide. The pathway on the main land gradually rises, imtil we 
 approach the point opposite the island, where we arrive at the brink of a 
 chasm sixty feet span, and at a depth of neai'ly a hundred feet, the green 
 waves foam and dash against the beetling cliffs at cither side, in awe- 
 inspiring immensity and force. Across this chasm a nide bridge is thrown, 
 constructed on the principle of the hide-rope bridges in the Andes, and other 
 parts of South America. Two stout cables in parallel lines, four feet apart, 
 from rock to rock, athwart the gulf, are made fast to iron rings, morticed 
 
 SKKERBT ISLANDS : — C00ff CAVE HEADLAND AND POETEVSH IN THE DISTANCE; SEKN PEOK 
 THE STACKS. DRAWN BY MAHONT. 
 
 into the stone surface. Across these a series of planks are firmly lashed, 
 giving stability to the structm'e as well as forming a footway. A pair of 
 hand-ropes completes the swinging bridge — and swing it does alarmingly in 
 stormy weather ; but such is the effect of custom, that the fishermen and 
 peasantiy— men, women, and childi-en — cross fearlessly day and night, in 
 all weathers, often with heavy burdens. Mr. Barrow remarks, that " The 
 only danger to be apprehended is the giving way of the ropes and ii-on lings 
 to wliich they are fastened ; should this happen, farewell to the unfortunate 
 passenger. One heavy-built man crossed over in my presence, and the 
 bridge bent and quivered at his every step in a fearful manner. He walked 
 with a very hurried step, which, on questioning him, I learnt to be the only 
 safe way. The man who di'ove me had accompanied sjme military officers 
 to the bridge, one of whom, venturing to cross, became nervous, and would 
 certaiuly have fallen over had he not been seized by the guide; so much
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 219 
 
 depends on strength of head. The fact was, becoming giddy hy looldng 
 down, he stood still, on which the fickle bridge began to sway backwards 
 and forwards and became so unsteady as to throw him completely off his 
 guard. It was said that lady visitors had frequently passed it, of which I 
 have not the least doubt, for where man dares, they seldom hesitate to follow." 
 From this to the Causeway the coast road presents, at every turn, fresh 
 objects of interest. Rich views are obtained of Dunseverick Castle, also of 
 the cm-ious and most interesting spot, called the Pieskins, whilst many a 
 jutting headland springs, as it were, from the bosom of the sea, amidst 
 groups of basaltic rocks flung into a thousand shapes, and reflecting the sun- 
 light in ten thousand tints. 
 
 
 oiant's gateway, at the causkway. 
 
 LADY S CHAIR, GIANT's CAUSEWAY.* 
 
 To view the Causeway with effect, and enjoy its varied aspects, true 
 lovers of nature and the artist will not be satisfied with one hasty view of 
 
 • The spot here shown, as its name indicates, is a favourite one with Causeway 
 visitors of the softer sex, for whom the guides have of course plentiful store of pre- 
 dictions of the philoprogenitive and matrimonial order current among all the tribe 
 all over the world, whether in Antrim or Arabia, 'i his, however, is not the spot 
 sacred to the sybils described by Barrow, viz. : — '• I'he only person I observed on the 
 Causeway Avheu I first descended, was an old woman, sitting by the spring of fresh 
 water, with a whiskey bottle and glasses to mix that national spirit with the pure 
 spring, and render it more palatable to her customers. On returning from my ramble 
 however, I perceived a young lady in a riding-habit, sitting down by the side of the 
 fountain, waiting the return of some gentlemen who were t-xamining the Causeway • 
 the sight of whom, in this lonely spot, I am free to confess, drove all the pentagons 
 and hexagons out of my head ; and to escape from the chance of its being filled with 
 something else, I was ungallant enough to take an abrupt departure."
 
 i: I hU 
 
 'htH 
 
 5^^ 
 
 
 mmm 
 mm 
 
 I I 
 
 liiiiiiia i 
 
 
 ^iiiiiiiiL
 
 DUBLTX TO BELFAST. 
 
 221 
 
 it and its surrounding wonders. They will see it at siunisc, when the 
 dawn first flings kaledciscoi)ic tints on those myriad groups of columns ; 
 at sunset, when the red light of departing day, alternating with deep 
 shadow, brings forth in beautiful relief the outlines of each pillared mass ; 
 and, loveliest of all, when the summer moonlight flings its mystic lustre 
 over a scene surcharged with endless shapes of grandeiu' and" sublinuty. 
 The Causeway, as a whole, cannot, as already intimated, be properlj- seen or 
 enjoyed from the land. The tourist will embark in one of the many row- 
 boats in waiting cither at the Causeway itself, or at the shore near the 
 village of Ballinatoy ; but previous to doing so, if at all nervous, it might 
 not be amiss for him or her to throw a glance at the frontispiece of 
 Thackeray's second volume, and learn therefrom that aquatics in Antrim 
 
 PORT COOX. — LAND EXTUANCK TO COON' CAVK. 
 
 are very different from what they are in Chelsea Reach, and that a Cause- 
 way boat is a much more grave craft than a Thames funny. 
 
 The usual route along which we are conducted by the guide brings us 
 fii'st to Dunsevcrick Castle, thence to the Cave of Port-coon, a cavern into 
 which the sea rushes in fearful force, -with a sound like thunder, the sides 
 and roof coated with stalactites of a thousand forms and colours. Thence 
 to the hillocks called the Stookans [thus denominated from their resemblance 
 to " stacked" corn sheaves], from which point the Causeway is seen in all its 
 beauty — its towering rocks and half-submerged columnar headlands rising 
 abrupt from ocean-depths. Colonnades of perfectly formed basaltic pillars, 
 thi'own out in bold relief by the dark clift' behind the vast arches and seem- 
 ingly half-ruined walls, rising to an immense height — fragments of columns, 
 segments of seemingly-artistic design strewn about in "wildest confusion — the
 
 222 
 
 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 whole suggesting that here, indeed, if anywhere, must Jove and the earth- 
 gods have fought theii- last fight ; and that these are the ruins of the Titanic 
 halls, wherein the rebellious sons of Uranus were overwhelmed — an idea 
 not altogether incongruous, perhaps, in the presence of the next truly 
 extraordinaiy specimen of basaltic formation, the Giant's Organ. 
 
 The phenomenon represented in the preceding large di'awing by Mr. 
 Mahouy is one standing some distance from the cliff, consisting of three 
 pillars, the tallest forty-live feet high, called the Chimney Tops, said to have 
 been battered by one of the ships of the Spanish Armada, whose crew in 
 tlie night-time mistook them for the chimneys of Dmiluce Castle. The ship, 
 according to tradition, was lost in the small bay on the other side, called 
 from the cu'cumstance, Port-na-Spania. Looking fi-om this point, seaward, 
 we perceive only a rock, Avhich seems to be a continuation of the structure. 
 Beyond it, to the east, is Sea-gull Island, a broad and high rock, generally 
 almost covered by the bii'ds which have given it a name. 
 
 SEA-GTTLL ISLAND, GIANT's CAVStWAY. DEAWN BY MAHONY. 
 
 The Causeway may be said to owe quite as much of its attraction to the 
 splendours and sublimity of its approaches as to its own peculiarities, 
 wonderful and unequalled though they undoubtedly are. The tourist 
 having now explored the varied beauties of these, and ha^dng, we hope, 
 been extremely fortunate enough to behold the Fata 3Iorf/amt, or Mirage, 
 which is not unfi'equently to be encountered in this necromantic region, he 
 may return by Bushmills, a handsome and rapidly-improving little village, 
 containing a spacious and well-managed inn, and a distillery famous among 
 consumers of the native, for its whiskey. It is of the Fairntosh description, 
 indeed a legalised potheen, having all the strength as well as the empyreu- 
 matic taste and odoiu* which characterise the illicit product. Retiu-ning 
 southwards, we find, a couple of miles to the west, the ruins of Dmiluce 
 Castle, an edifice with whose sui'prising features every tourist is enraptured, 
 and of which Mr. Barrow has left a Aivid record of his impressions, as
 
 224 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 
 
 follows : — " Xotlimg could be more adapted to a scene in romance than the 
 wild position of ] )uuluce Castle, perched as it is on the summit of a naked 
 and lofty rock, suri-ounded by the sea, and cut ofi" from the main land, 
 except by a narrow stratum of rock or wall, that serves as a foot-bridge 
 over a deep gulf, through which the sea roars below with a fearful noise. 
 Traditional stories, indeed, are not wanting of the abduction and imprison- 
 ment of beautiful virgins by some O'Neill or O'Cahan or INI'Mahon, or some 
 otlicr Mac or O, which O'Hallaron says are atSxes of dignity and meaning, 
 indicating the tme Milesian breed, as demonstrated by an old Latin 
 pentameter — • 
 
 " Per Mac atque tu veros cognoscis Hibernos : 
 His duobus dcmptis, nuUus Hibernus adcst." 
 
 The lines of "Wordsworth, on Peel Castle, might be not inaptly fitted to 
 this structure : — 
 
 And this buge castle, standins here sublime, 
 I love to see the look with which it braves, 
 
 Cased in the unfeeling armour of old 'I iine, 
 
 The lightning, the tierce wind, and trampling waves. 
 
 Lord John Manners also graphically says : — " Dunluce Castle is, without 
 any exception, the grandest, romanticcst, awfulest sea-king's castle in broad 
 Europe : it stands on a great ledge of a cliff, separated from, rather than 
 joined to, the main land by the narrowest of natural bridges, and overhangs 
 the sea — that dark, chilling, northern sea — so perpendicularly, that how the 
 towers and wall on the sca-sidc were built I cannot divine : what numbers 
 of masons and builders must have fallen into that gloomy sea before the last 
 loophole was i^icrced! The landward scenery, spite of good roads and 
 modern imj^rovements, is dreary enough now : what it must have been when 
 those grim halls were iu'st inhabited by Ulster chieftains, who can guess ? 
 There is no castle on the Ehuie. or the Loire, or the Seine, or anywhere else 
 that I know of, that can be compared with Dunluce for desolate awe- 
 inspii-ing grandcm-. The Causeway itself was quite tame and flat after 
 Dunluce." 
 
 Dark o'er the foam-white waves, 
 
 The Giant's Pier the war of tempests braves, 
 
 A far-projecting, firm, basaltic way, 
 
 Of clustering columns wedged in dense array ; 
 
 With skill so like, yet so surpassing art, 
 
 With such design, so ju^t in every part, 
 
 7 hat reason pauses doubtful if it stand 
 
 The work of mortal or immortal hand. 
 
 And now, reader, assuming that you have made something slightly 
 approximating to an exploration of the tlu-ee great features of the place, the 
 Causeway proper, the Cliffs, and the Caves, and that you will return by the 
 inland route, for the sake of diversity-, nothing remains but, froni tliis 
 extremest point of northern Irish ground, to bid you farewell. Probably 
 next year we shall present ourselves in still more imposing guise, and be 
 enabled to include the beautiful and renowned region of Lough Neagh, now 
 passed over in utter silence. 
 
 PEIKTED FOR THE RAILWAY COMPAVIFS. PARTIES TO THE IPISH TOVEIST TICKET SYSTEM.
 
 LONDON BEIDGE. 
 
 ^ DRAY, & Co.'s 
 CUTLERY, IRONMONGERY, AND FURNISHING WAREHOUSE. 
 
 ESTABLISHED A.D. 1700. (OPENING TO THE MONUMENT.) 
 
 DEANE'S TABLE CUTLERY 
 
 Has for more than 150 years received extensive and increasing public patronage. The 
 stock, comprising Ivory, Bone, Horn, and Stag Handles, stands xinrivalled in extent and 
 variety; the prices are the lowest, and the quality of the steel the very best. 
 
 Deane's Monument Razors, and London-bridge Strops, are preferredby the best judges 
 to any other. Their Pen and Pocket Knives, Gd. each, and upwards ; and Ladies' Scissors 
 of every description, are all of the finest quality. 
 
 ELECTRO-SILVERED DEANEAN PLATE. 
 
 This beautiful manufacture is celebrated for its peculiar purity and silvery whiteness > 
 and as a substitute for silver (from which it cannot, by any test, be distinguished), is un- 
 surpassed. 
 
 Deane, Dray, and Co. have always on sale Table and Dessert Spoons and Forks, in 
 all the newest and most approved silver patterns; also Tea and Coffee Sets, Liqueur- 
 stands, Cruets, Candlesticks, Cake-baskets, and every article usually produced in silver. 
 DRAWING-ROOM STOVES. 
 
 A Large and Handsome Collection of BRIGHT STOVES, for the Drawing or Dining 
 Room, embracing all the newest designs, is always on sale in the Stove and Fender De- 
 partment of Deane, Dray, and Co.'s Establishment. They have applied to these and 
 other classes of Register Stoves patented improvements, economising the consumption of 
 fuel, for which the liighest testimonials have been given. Deane, Dray, and Co. also 
 invite attention to their Improved COOKING STOVE, adapted for Gentlemen's Man- 
 sions, and all large establishments, with Kitchen Ranges of the best construction. In 
 FENDERS and FIRE-IRONS they are constantly introducing every novelty, at the 
 lowest possible prices. 
 
 IRON BEDSTEADS AND CHILDREN'S COTS. 
 
 Deane, Dray, and Co. manufactjire and supply every description of Iron and Brass 
 Bedsteads, and have at all times a;^arge stock of these articles on hand, together with 
 Beds, Mattresses, Palliasses, &c. I^>iced Lists, with Drawings, sent, by post, free. 
 
 FAMILIES FURNISHING 
 
 May obtain, post free, on application, Deane, Drav, and Co.'s General Fm'nishing 
 Priced List, enumerating more than 500 articles selected from the various departments of 
 their Establishmeiit, requisite in fitting up a Family Residence, including Table Cutlery, 
 Electro-Plate, Lamps, Papier-Mach(? Trays, Fenders and Fire-irons, Iron Bedsteads, 
 Britannia Metal, Tin and Japan "Ware, Turnery, Brushes, Mats, ifrc., &c. 
 
 DEANE, DRAY, & CO.i LONDON BRIDGE.
 
 CUTLERY AND SHEFFIELD PLATE, 
 
 WARRANTED OF FIRST-RATE QUALITY. 
 
 JOSEPH MAPPIN AND BROTHERS, 
 ueen's Cutlery Works, Sheffield. 
 
 37, MOOR GATE STREET, 
 
 LONDON. 
 90, JOHN STREET, 
 
 NEW YORK, 
 
 CRYSTAL PALACE, (SHEFFIELD COURT), 
 
 SYDENHAM. 
 
 Messrs. MAPPIN beg to inform Merchants, Shippers, and 
 Foreign Buyers, that they always have an immense Stock of 
 their Manufactures ready for Immediate Shipment, at their 
 London Warehouse, 37, Moobgate Steeet. 
 
 MESSRS. MAPPIN 
 
 Are appointed Cutlers to Queen Victoria, and were honoured 
 with a Prize Medal at the Great Exhibition of All Nations in 
 1851, for the Superior Quality and Excellence of their Manu- 
 factures.
 
 BY ROYAL 
 
 AUTHORITY 
 
 R. ATKINSON AND Co. 
 
 POPLIN MANUFACTUREES TO THE UUEEN, 
 
 IIER ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUCHESS OF KENT, 
 THEIR EXCELLENCIES 
 
 THE LORD LIEUTENANT & COUNTESS OF ST. GERMANS, 
 
 AND THUS 
 
 MOST ILLUSTRIOUS ORDER OF ST. PATRICK, 
 3 1, COLLEGE-GREEN3 DUBLIN. 
 
 Atkinson and Co. beg leave most respectfully to return their grateful thanks 
 to the Nobility and Gentry of Great Britain and Ireland, for the liberal 
 l)atronage they have received ; and take leave to say, that the same attention 
 to Orders which has given such general satisfaction will be still persevered in, 
 and the Poplins sent as usual, free of expense, to any part of Ireland ; or to 
 Tiondon, Liverpool, Bristol, Plymouth, or Glasgow, from whence they mil be 
 forwarded as addressed without delay. 
 
 A. and Co. have always in Stock a large variety of the under-mentioned 
 Poplins, same quality as those for which they were awarded the Prize MedaIj 
 of the Great Exiiibitiox of all Natio>'s, 18.51, and the Gold Medal pre- 
 mium, by the Royal Dublin Society, at the late Exhibition of Lisli Manu- 
 factures. 
 
 GOLD AND SILVER TISSUE POPLIN 
 
 BROCADED DO. 
 
 DOUBLE DO. 
 
 DOUBLE WATERED & RIBBED DO. 
 
 FIGURED, PLAIN, AND PLAID DO. 
 
 GOLD & SILVER TISSUE POPLINS 
 
 FOR GENTLEMEN'S WAISTCOATS 
 
 BROCADED POPLIN VESTINGS 
 
 FURNITURE TABOURETS 
 
 SILK FOR CLERGYMEN'S AND LAW- 
 YERS' GOWNS 
 
 RIBBON of the MOST ILLUSTRIOUS 
 ORDER OF ST. PATRICK 
 
 BROCADED POPLIN Sa4.RFS. 
 
 N.B. — Specimens for Inspection transmitted (per post, free) to any part oj 
 the United Kingdom. 
 
 31y College Green, Dublin. 
 
 tourists visiting DUBLIN CAN SEE THE WHOLE PROCESS OF FABRICATlNa IRISH 
 POPLINS AT THE ABOVE ESTABLISHMENT
 
 ^ 
 .2 ^ 
 
 ^^ISH BOG 04^ 
 
 c8 . 
 
 MANUFAGTUEER TO THE QUEEN, 
 
 13, NASSAU STREET, DUBLIN. 
 
 The magnificent hog oak-hrooch, mounted in Wichhw gold and Irish gems, which was 
 room hij Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen, on the occasion of her second visit to our 
 Irish Crystal Palace was mamifactared by our interprising jellow citizen Mr. Cornelius 
 Goggin, 13, Nassau Street. The artistic taste and skill displayed in the manufacture of 
 this Royal Irish Gem, must tend in an eminent degree to sustain tJie high character for 
 which his establishment has been so famed. 
 
 CORNELIUS GOGGIN 
 
 Has the honour to inform the jSTohility and Gcntrj' that he has now on Anew exact copies 
 of the above named 
 
 ROYAL IRISH GEM, 
 
 As patronized by her Gracious Majesty, -svhich has been so universally admired by the 
 distinguished visitors to his establishment. In respectfully calling the attention of the 
 Nobility, Gentry, and Tourists generallv, to liis unequalled stock of 
 
 IRISH BOG OAK ORNAMEiVITS 
 
 In Antique and National Devices, executed in the tirst stj-le of artistic excellence, mounted 
 in native Gold and Silver, with Irish Gems, the produce of the country — viz.. Diamonds, 
 Amethysts, Beryls, Pearls, Malachite, &c., &c., all beuig warranted "genuine, he would 
 take this opportunity of returning his best thanks for the universal "patronage he has 
 hitherto received ; aiid adding that he is fully determined, by the most unremittmg atten- 
 tion, to maintain that high character which his Establishment ha.s obtained for producing 
 none but genuine goods, and worked by celebrated artists of acknowledged talent. 
 
 The following are the names of a few of the Nobility who have favoiu-ed his Establish- 
 ment with theu- patronage : — 
 H. Ft. H. the Duke of Cambridge. 
 His Grace the Duke of Devonshire. 
 Her Grace the Duchess of Cleveland. 
 Her Grace the Duchess of Bedford. 
 Her Grace the Duchess of Wellington. 
 The ]\Iarquis & Lady Cecilia Conyngham. 
 The Marquis of Onnond. 
 The Marquis of Breadalbane. 
 The Marquis and jMarchioness of Ely. 
 The Marquis and Marchioness of Thomond. 
 The Earl of Eglinton. 
 The Earl of Clare. 
 The Earl of Annesley. 
 The Earl and Countess of Bradford. 
 The Earl and Coimtess of Enniskillen. 
 The Earl and Countess of Erne. 
 The Earl and Countess of Laiusborough. 
 The Earl and Countess of Roden. 
 The Earl and Countess of Rosse. 
 The Earl and Countess of ISIayo. 
 The Earl and Coimtess of Bandon. 
 His Excellencv Count Walewslci. 
 
 The Countess of Fingall. 
 
 The Countess of Clarendon. 
 
 The Countess of Lucan. 
 
 The Countess de Salis. 
 
 The Countess of Caledon. 
 
 The Dowager Countess of Caledon. 
 
 Her Excellency Lady Cowlej-. 
 
 Lord and Lady Palmerston. 
 
 Lord and Lady Talbot de Malahide. 
 
 Lord Ward. 
 
 Viscountess Dungannon, 
 
 Viscountess Canning. 
 
 Lady Naas. 
 
 Lady Clanwilliam. 
 
 Lady Bective. 
 
 Lady Man,' Bridgeman. 
 
 Lady Charlotte Bridgeman. 
 
 Lady Alan Churchilk 
 
 Lord Otho Fitzgerald. 
 
 Lord Ernest Bruce. 
 
 Sir Jolm and Lady Yoimg, 
 
 Sir Edward and tady Blakeney, 
 
 COGGIN, 13, NASSAU STREET, DUBLIN.
 
 His Eoyal .Highaeas Prince\"Mbei't explaining to the Prince of 
 
 ^' 
 
 
 -,mi =^5^ 
 
 '5IS0T|3 n^3 eq^ jo uoiiois aqi pajjnr odut.tj pai3 sai^AL
 
 SEASON, 185 4. 
 
 A MAGNIFICENT COLLECTION OP 
 
 LADIES' COURT DRESSES, 
 
 A real treat for the admirers of Beautiful Costumes. The Group of Royal Children, 
 
 HER SV2AJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA, 
 
 H.R.H. PRINCE ALBERT, and the DUCHESS OP GLOUCESTER, 
 
 which have been honoured with the highest encomiums. 
 
 THE SULTAN, ABDUL MEDJ I D. 
 
 HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY, THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA. 
 
 ADMIHiVL SIR CHAELES NAPIER, 
 
 Taken from Life. The Hero of Matagorda, Sir Archibald Maclaine, Colonel of the 
 Gallant 52nd Regiment, the Oldest and probably one of the bravest Officers in the Army. 
 A Variety of New Pictures, among which are two Gallery Portraits of 
 PRINCE JEROME NAPOLEON AND HIS QUEEN, 
 By Le Fevre, the Court Painter, have been added to the Napoleon Rooms, 
 acknowledged to be the largest collection of Relics of that great man, con- 
 taining the celebrated Military Carriage, the Berlin, No. 12, taken at 
 Waterloo, and the Carriage used at St. Helena, the last he ever entered. 
 "This is one of the best sights in the Metropolis." — The Times. 
 
 Admission, Is. Mapoleon Rooms, 6d. 
 
 OPEN IN SUMMER from 11 in the MORNING till 10 at NIGHT.— WINTER, 
 
 from 11 till Dusk, and from 7 till 10. 
 
 mkDkME TUSSAUD AND SONS' 
 BAZAAR, BAKER STREET, PORTMAN SQUARE, LONDON 
 
 KEATIN G'S COUGH L OZENGES. 
 
 A Certain Remedy for Disorders of the Pulmonarj' Organs : in DiiRculty of Breathing, 
 Redundancy of Phlegm, and Incipient Consumption, (of which Cough is the most posi- 
 tive indication,) they are of unerring efficacy. In Asthma, and iu Winter Cough, they 
 have never been known to fail. 
 
 Keating's Cough Lozenges are free from every deleterious ingredient ; they may, 
 therefore, be taken at all times by the most delicate female, and by the youngest child ; 
 while the Public Speaker and the Professional Singer will tind them invaluable in allay- 
 ing the hoarseness and irritation incidental to vocal exertion, and consequently a power- 
 ful auxiliary in the production of melodious enunciation. 
 
 Prepared and sold in Boxes, Is. Ikl., and Tins, 2s. l)d., 4s. Gd., and 10s. 6d. each, bv 
 THOMAS KEATING, Chemist, &c.. No. 79, St. PauFs Churchyard, London. Sold 
 Retail by all Druggists and Patent Medicine Vendors in the Kingdom. 
 
 N.B. To prevent spurious imitations, please to observe that the words " Keating's 
 Cough Lozenges" are engraved on the Government Stamp of each box. 
 
 IMPORTANT TESTIMONIAL. 
 
 Copy of a Letter from the late COLONEL HAWKER, [the well-knoxm Author on 
 "GUNS AND shooting:') 
 
 Longparish House, near Whitchurch, Hants, 
 October, 21st, 18i6. 
 Sir, — I cannot resist informing you of the extraordinary effect I have experienced b-v 
 taking only a few of your LOZENGES. I had a cougii for several weeks, that defied all 
 that had been prescribed for me ; and yet I got completely rid of it b^v taking about half 
 a small box of your Lozenges, which I find are the only ones that relieve the cough with- 
 out deranging the stomach or digestive organs. I am, Sh-, yom- humble servant, 
 To Mr. Keating, 79, St. Paul's Churchyard. P. HAWKER.
 
 Patronized by Her «%^^^ Gracious Majesty 
 the fS^-l"^Srv Queen, 
 
 and all the iS^^^ Royal Family. 
 
 BOOTS AND SHOES, 
 
 BY J. SPARKES HALL, 
 
 NO. 308, REGENT STREET, AND AT THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 
 
 ELASTIC BOOTS. 
 
 Tliese Boots require neither lacing, buttoning', nor tying ; they may be put 
 on and off in a moment, without trouble or loss of time. The constant annoy- 
 ance of laces breaking, buttons coming off, holes wearing out, aud many 
 other imperfections in the ortlinary modes of fosteuing, suggested the 
 improvement which is now submitted to the public. No boot ever afforded 
 Buch variety of play and motion to the feet and ankles, or corresponded so 
 exactly to their natural and anatomical form. 
 
 This invention has been honoured with the most distinguished patronage ; 
 her IMajesty not only patronises but wears the Elastic Boots, walks in them 
 daily, and thus gives the strongest proof of the value she attaches to the 
 invention. 
 
 They are also patronised by his Royal Highness Prince Albert, the Duchess 
 of Kent, the Duchess of Cambridge, the young Princes and Princesses, &c. 
 
 In all cases of weak or swollen ankles they are recommended by SIR 
 BENJAMIN BRODIE, DR. LOCOCK, and DR. CHAMBERS, who have 
 given the inventor their patronage, and by wearing the Elastic Boots them- 
 selves, give the strongest testimonial to their superiority. Ladies', 129 ; 
 gentlemen's, 21s. 
 
 ELASTIC VULCANISED OVERSHOES. 
 Ladies', 8s. 6d. ; gentlemen's, 12s. ; children's, 4s. Gd. 
 
 DEPOT FOR IRISH m ANU F ACTU RES, 
 
 233, REGENT STREET, 
 
 NEXT DOOR TO HANOVER CHAPEL. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 SHOW-ROOMS are now open at the above Establishment, for LADIES 
 READY-MADE UNDER CLOTHING, 
 
 IN SUPERIOR IRISH NEEDLE WORK. 
 
 s. d. s- ^■ 
 
 Dressing Gowns ... from 10 each. ^ Flannel Mantles ... „ GO each. 
 
 „ Jackets ... „ 8 6 '^' '" 
 
 Night Dresses ... „ 3 6 
 
 Chemises » -i 
 
 Petticoats „ 3 
 
 Drawers >, 2 
 
 Night Caps „ 19 
 
 BABY LINEN OUTFITS. 
 
 Cloaks Embroidered from 19 
 Hoods Embroidered „ 7 6 
 
 Shawls ... „ 5 
 
 Robes „ 10 
 
 Irish Point Robes... „ 35 
 
 Caps ... „ 10 
 
 ~ U 
 
 Night Wrappers ... „ 2 
 
 Monthly Gowns ... „ 5 u 
 
 Petticoats ... ^... „ 2 
 
 Pinafores ,..*... „ 1 3 
 
 Irish Point and Guipure Laces in every Variety. 
 
 Every artick marked in Plain Figures, at the Loivest Pnce.
 
 THE CANADIAN STEAIV! NAVIGATION COmPANY, 
 
 {Under Contract with Her Majesty's Provincial Government of Canada.) 
 
 COMPANY'S OFFICES: 
 
 No. 3, ROYAL INSURANCE BUILDINGS, NORTH JOHN STREET. 
 
 WILLIAM RUDD, Secretary. 
 
 STEAM TWICE A MONTH TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL, 
 
 [During Summer.) 
 
 THE COMPANY'S FIRST-CLASS POWERFUL SCREW STEAM SHIPS 
 
 Ottawa, Capt. J, B. Atkins. Srie (new.) 
 
 Cleopatra, Capt. H. Salt. Huron (new.) 
 
 Charity, Capt. W. Paton. ©ntario (new.) 
 
 Sarah Sands, (Chartered), Capt. W. Ilsley. 
 
 AVILL BE DESPATCHED AS FOLLOWS: — 
 
 FROm BIRKENHEAD DOCK, LIVERPOOL, 
 
 FOB 
 
 aUEBEC & MONTREAL DIRECT, 
 
 On the 10th and 2oth of each Month, from April to September inclusive ; returning 
 
 from Quebec on the 5th and 20th of each Month, from May to October inclusive ; 
 
 and once a Blonth during Winter between Liverpool and Portland. 
 
 EACH VESSEL CARRIES A SURGEON. 
 For Freight or Passage, or further information, apply to 
 
 9 
 
 Liverpool, May, 1854. 21, Water Street, Liverpool 
 
 ' NOTICE TO SHIPPERS. 
 
 BOSTON AND HALIFAX, 
 
 ief Cabin Passage, 23/. ; Second Cabin Passage, 15/. Rate of Freight — 3/. per 
 Ton Measurement. 
 
 TO NEW YORK, 
 
 Chief Cabin Passage, 30/. ; Second Cabin Passage, 20/. These rates include Steward's 
 Fee and Provisions, but without Wines or Liquors, which can be obtained on board. 
 Dofs charged 51. each. Rate of Freight, 4/. per Ton Measurement. Freight on Parcels, 
 5s. each and upwards, according to size. 
 
 BRITISH AND NORTH AMERICAN ROYAL MAIL STEAM-SHIPS, 
 
 Appointed by the Admiralty to sail between 
 
 Liverpool and New York Direct, and between Liverpool and Boston, 
 
 Arabia, Capt. C. H. E. Judkins I Africa, Capt. William Han-ison 
 
 Persia, Capt. Alexander Ryrie | America, Capt. W. J. G. Lang 
 
 Asia, Capt. Edward G. Lott I Niagara, Capt. John Leitch 
 
 Canada, Ca^t- James Stone | Europa, Capt. Neill Shannon 
 
 Cambria, Captain W. Douglas. 
 
 rom Liverpool every Sat 
 
 for 
 VMUEL 
 
 _lavre ana i'aris, to ukjssivlau vyuixiviij, m jji_iuuuu, lu xj. u. i:\j^'xij.', ^m, ^^^^ Broad 
 Street; in Glasgow, to G. & J. BURNS; or in Liverpool, to 
 
 B. Sc C, MACSVER, 
 
 14, Water Street.
 
 TOURS IN IRELAND IN 1854, 
 
 Commencing 22nd Mai/ — terminating 30th September. 
 
 ,• Arrangements have been again entered into by the Chester and Holyhead Railway 
 Company with the principal Railway Comgauies in England, Scotland, and Ireland, by 
 which First and Second Class 
 
 IRISH TOURIST TICKETS 
 
 WILL BE ISSUED AT THE FOLLOWING STATIONS AND PRICES : — < 
 
 1st Class. 2nd Class. 
 London (EustOn Station), Newcastle, Durham, Benvick... 6 10 6 6 
 Edinburgh, Glasgow, Hull, Bristol, Carlisle, Darlington, 
 
 Scarboro' 6 6 6 5 0. 
 
 ? Worcester^ Cheltenham, Gloucester, Oxford 6 15 4 15 
 
 York 5 10 4 10 
 
 Birmingham, Rugby, Leamington, Coventry, Lincoln ... 5 6 4 6 
 Wolverhampton, Huddersfield, Leeds, Sheffield, Derby... 5 0. 4 5 
 
 Preston 4 10 3 15 
 
 Manchester, Warrington, Stoke, Macclesfield 4 4 3 10 
 
 Liverpool, Chester 4 3 5 
 
 These Tickets (in no case transferable) will be available for ONE MONTH from Date 
 of Issue. They will enable holders to proceed to Chester, thence to Bangor, Holyhead, 
 and Dublin (by the Express boats only); from Dublin to Cork, on the picturesque River 
 Lee, and within ten miles of the celebrated Harbour, Dockyard, and Naval Station of 
 Queenstown (Cove). From Cork back to Mallow, and thence, by the KLUarney Junction 
 Railway to the far-famed 
 
 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 
 . The Tourist can remain as long as convenient at Chester, Bangor {for inspection oj 
 Britannia Tubular Bridge), Holyhead {new Refuge and Ocean Steam Harbour), Dublin, 
 Cork, and Killarney ; the only condition being, that his return to the Station in England 
 or Scotland, at which he took his Ticket, must not be later than One Month from date of 
 his departure therefrom. 
 
 SUPPLEMENTAL TICKETS FOR GLENGARIFF, CONNEMARA, AND 
 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 
 
 ' Under arrangements, specially and exclusively entered into for accommodation of 
 English Visitors, the holder of each Irish Tourist Ticket is entitled {within the month 
 it is available) to have issued to him :— 
 
 1. At Offices of Dublin and Drogheda Companj', Amiens-street, Dublin — Dublin to 
 Belfast and back, for Tour to Giant's Causeway : — First Class, £1 8s. ; Second Class, 
 £1 2s. Available Seven Days. 
 
 •' 2. At Offices of Midland Great Western Company, Broadstone, Dublin — Dublin ta 
 Galway and back, for Tour to Connemara : — First Class, £1 10s. ; Second Class, £1 4s, 
 Available Seven Days. 
 
 3. At Fishbourne's Offices, Bachelor's-waJk,^ Dublin; Railway Station, Killarney ; Im- 
 perial Hotel, Cork ; and Victoria Hotel, Glengariff — For Tour between. Cork and Kil- 
 larney, via Cork and Bandon Railway, the Keimaneigh Pass, and Lakes of Gougane 
 Barra and Inchageelagh, and vice versa, each day (Sundays excepted), 17s. 6d. 
 
 Every Purchaser of an Irish Tourist Ticket can be supplied, at a ven,- moderate 
 price, with a copy of The Tourist's Illustrated Hand-Book. At the Office of the 
 Chester and Holyhead Railway Company, 52, Westland-row, Dublin, the most accuratf 
 information upon every subject connected with these Tours will be afforded; also at J. 
 Fishboume's Coach-office, Imperial Hotel, Cork. 
 
 The Express Boats leave Holyhead about 5.30 p.m., and Kingstown about 9 a.m., dailj 
 (Sundays excepted). First Class Passengers boohed to or from Ireland can travel by Ex- 
 press Trains at same Fares as the Ordinary Trains. Second Class Passengers booked to 
 or from Ireland cun travel by the 9.15 a.m. Express Trains from London and interme- 
 diate Stations, for same Second Class Fares as if booked by Ordinary Trains. They have 
 also same privilege in returning by Express Trains in connexion with the 9 a.m. Express 
 Boat from Kingstown, that leaves Chester at 5.25 p.ih.", and is due in London about 11 p.m. 
 
 Note. — Persons visiting North or West of Ireland only, can take ordinary Return 
 Tickets from London, Birmingham, Manchester, Chester, or Liverpool, to Belfast or Gal- 
 way. Those issued in London available for Fourteen Days; those from other Stations 
 for Seven. London to Belfast, First Class, £5 5s. ; Second, £3 15s. Galway, First Class, 
 £5 16s. ; Second, £4. Other Stations at proportionate Fares ; see London and North- 
 western and Chester and Holyhead Through Time Bills ; Bradshaw's each month, page 
 122 ; and Fisher's and Walsh's Irish Railway Guides.
 
 NOTICE TO TOURISTS. 
 
 CORK TO QUEEXSTOWN & CORK HARBOUR 
 
 NINE MILES. 
 
 The * River Steamer' Company's fast and well 
 appointed Boats ply between 
 
 CORK, PASSAGE, MOI^KSTOWlN^ AND QUEENSTOWK, 
 
 EVERY DAY IN THE WEEK, 
 
 At the frequent hours stated in the Company's Time Bills, and at a very low 
 and reduced rate of fares. 
 ENGLISH TOURISTS should not faQ to visit the heautiful scenery of 
 the RIVER LEE, mclucUng the LOTA DEMESNE. GLANMIRE VALLEY, 
 BLACKROCK CASTLE, LOUGH MAHON, FOATY BAY, the TOWN of 
 PASSAGE, the picturesque VILLAGE and BAY of MONKSTOWN, 
 HA^YLBOWLINE, SPIKE, and the MAGAZINE ISLANDS, and the Sea- 
 port town of QUEENSTOWN, with its Noble Harbour. Extra Steamers 
 run on Sundays, when pleasure excursions to Sea are made. Full particulars 
 and information can be had at the Company's Office, IMERCHANTS' QUAY, 
 CORK, or of 
 
 JOHN DONEGAN, Agent. 
 
 CORK, BLACKROCK, AND PASSAGE RAILWAY, 
 WITH STEALERS TO QUEENSTOWN. 
 
 WEEK DAY TRAINS. 
 
 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Class. 1st & 2d Class. 
 
 Prom Cork ... 8 09 010 Oil 012 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 9 30 
 From Passage 8 30 9 30 10 30 11 30 12 30 1 30 2 30 3 30 4 30 5 30 6 30 7 30 9 30 10 30 
 
 SUNDAY TEAINS. 
 1st Class. 1st and 2nd Class. 
 
 From Cork ... — 10 Oil 012 01 02 03 04 5 06 07 08 09 30 
 From Passage. — 10 30 11 30 12 30 1 30 2 30 3 30 4 30 5 30 6 30 7 30 8 30 10 
 
 Return Tickets will be issued on Sundays, available until the 9-30 Up-Train inclusive. 
 Railway Steamers will ply as follows on Week Days, until further notice: — 
 
 From Queenstown at 9, 10, 11, 12, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, & 6J 
 
 From Passage at 20 minutes past 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5, 
 
 N.B. — On Sundays the first Boat wiU leave Passage at 10-15 a.m., and the last boat 
 will leave Queenstown at 7 p.m. 
 Fares by Steamer to Queenstown and Passage — Aft. 2d. ; Forward, Id. 
 
 1st CI. 2d CI. 3d CL 
 
 Railway Fares 6 4 2 
 
 Return Tickets on Sundays 9 6 — 
 
 Return Tickets are issued daily to and from Blackrock ... 6 4 — 
 Single Fares from Blackrock to Cork 3 2 — ■ 
 
 JOSEPH DUNBAR, Secretary.
 
 COEK, GIEIGAEIFF, & KILLASNEY, 
 
 VIA THE 
 
 CORK AND BANDON RAILWAY. 
 
 IMPORTANT TO TOURISTS. 
 
 Tlie Directors of tlie Cork mid Bandon Railway Jiave the 
 pleasure to announce that they have made arrangements with 
 Mr. FISHBOURNE, the Coach Proprietor, to Book Tourist 
 Passengers to Killarney this season, by 
 
 A NEW AND SPLENDID EOUTE, 
 
 Viz.,— CORK to BANDON by Railway, thence by road to 
 CROOKSTOWN, by the beautiful LAIvES of INCHIGEELA, 
 the Romantic Scenery around the Holy Lake of GOXJGANE 
 BARRA, (the source of the RIVER LEE,) and through the (jele, 
 brated Pass of KEIMANEIGH, round the magnificent BAY of 
 BANTRY, to GLENGARIFF VALLEY, KENMARE HAR. 
 BOUR, and KILLARNEY. 
 
 Tickets will be issued, and full particulars obtained, at the Cork 
 and Bandon Railway Stations ; J. Fishbourne's Offices, Bachelors' 
 Walk, Dublin ; Imperial Hotel Yard, Cork ; Roche's Hotel, Glen- 
 garifF; Railway Station, Killarney; or at the Company's Offices, 
 17, Gracechurch Street, London. 
 
 H. WILLIAIVIS WOOD, 
 
 Secretary*
 
 WATERFORD & KILKENNY RAILWAY 
 
 _ TOURIST PASSENGERS TO JMUM 
 
 THIS SEASON 
 
 Are particularly recommended to visit the beautiful and PICTURESQUE 
 SCENERY along this line of Railway, embracing the celebrated and anti- 
 quated ruins of 
 
 JERPOINT ABBEY, DUNBRODY ABBEY, GRANNY CASTLE, 
 
 And several other Castellated remains well worthy of observation. The 
 
 TOWN AND CASTLE OF KILKENNY, 
 
 ITS FAMOUS MARBLE QUARRIES, 
 
 AXD THE 
 
 HARBOUR & CITY OF WATERFORD, 
 
 Near which is the site of the battle (a.d. 1171), where Strongbow conquered 
 the Irish Chieftains, and founded the Union of the Two Countries by his 
 marriage with the beautiful Princess Eva, daughter of Dermot M'Murrogh, 
 King of Leinster, immediately after tlie battle, as depicted in 
 
 MACLISE'S MAGNIFICENT PICTURE 
 
 NOW EXHIBITING IN 
 
 THE ROYAL ACADEMY. 
 
 FULL PABTICULARS AS TO TRAINS AND FARES MAY BE HAT) AND EVEET 
 INFORMATION OBTAINED AT THE 
 
 STATIONS AT WATERFORD AND EILKENNT, 
 
 OR OP 
 
 WILLIAM SLADE PARKER, 
 
 Secbetaby. 
 17i Gracechurch Street, London.
 
 CITY OF DUBLIN STEAM-PACKET CO. 
 
 THE ROYAL MAIL PACKETS. 
 
 SAIL AS UNDER WITH HER MAJESTY'S TWICE EVERY DAY .' 
 
 Kingstown to Holyhead. 
 
 First Sailing at 1 p.m, ) Dublin 
 
 Second Sailing at 7.30 p.m. ) Time. 
 
 Holyhead to Kingstown. 
 
 First Sailing at 1.30 &.m,\ London 
 Second Sailing at 6 a.m. ) Time. 
 
 OH AS SOON AFTER AS THE MAILS ARE ON BOARD. 
 
 Kingstown to Liverpool. 
 
 At 7 p.m. 
 With Passengers ordy. 
 
 Dublin to Liverpool^ 
 
 With Cargo and Passengers, daily, 
 (Sundays excepted) ahout two hours 
 before hiffh water 
 
 Dublin to Belfast. 
 
 With Cargo and Passengers, on Tuesdays, returning on Thursdays. 
 
 RIVER SHANNON. 
 
 The Steam Packets of the Company ply regularly from 
 
 KILLALOE TO ATHLONE 
 
 At 9 a.m., taking Passengers intending to proceed to Dublin by the Train 
 leaving Athlone at 6.15 p.m , 
 
 ATHLONE TO KILLALOE 
 
 With Passengers aniving by the train from Dublin due in Athlone at 10 a.m., 
 calling at Shannon Bridge, Banagher, Portumna, and WUHamstown or Dro- 
 mineer. Cars and Coaches attend the Steamer to convey Passengers between 
 KiLLALOE and Limerick ; or separate cars can be had at moderate rates by 
 parties wishing to \'isit Castle Connel, and the celebrated Falls of Doonass. 
 On the Lower Shannon the Steamers ply between 
 
 LIMERICK AND KILRUSH, 
 
 Touching at Foynes Island, Glin, and Tarbert. 
 
 FOR HOURS OF SAILING SEE MONTHLY BILL. 
 
 Railway Passengers arri\dng in Limerick a quarter of an hour previously 
 to the time of Sailing will be in time to join the Steamers. 
 
 Notice — Oallagher's Cars await the arrival of the Stecmiers at Tarbertt 
 to convey Passengers to Listowel, Traiee, and Killamey. 
 
 Well appointed Vehicles meet the Steamers at Kilrush, taking Passengers 
 for and from Kilkee.
 
 STEAM XO MADEIRA, TENEBIFFE, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 
 
 THE AFRICAN STEAM-SHIP COSIPAM'S 
 
 VESSELS: 
 
 Foretunner W. H. Barnwell, Commande^. 
 
 Faith James Parsons, „ 
 
 Hope W. H. Bowen, ^ 
 
 Candace .«... W. E. Hawkesley, „ 
 
 Ethiope •■'^-** 
 
 CONVEY GOODS FROM LONDON TO 
 
 BATHURST, SIERRA LEONE, MONROVIA, CAPE COAST 
 CASTLE, AND FERNANDO PO, 
 
 Which must be on Board in LONDON, by the l6th, for the three latter, and 
 on the 17th for the two fonner Ports ; and also the 
 
 ROYAL MAIL AND PASSENGERS 
 
 FROM PLYMOUTH, 
 On the 24th of each Mouth, at 3 P.M., to the aforesaid Ports, as well as to 
 
 MADEIRA, TENERIFFE, GOREE, WHYDAH, BADAGRY, LAGOS, 
 BONNY, OLD CALABAR, AND CAMEROONS. 
 
 Free (jrooSs only, and heavy baggage, to be sent to the BRITISit and 
 FOREIGN STEAM WHARF, LOWER EAST SMITHFIELD. 
 
 The Company's Store Ships Statira, at Sierra Leone, and the Helena, at 
 Fernando Po, wUl receive produce for Sliipment, by the Steamers, free of 
 any charge. 
 
 For further information apply in Liverpool to Mr. HAMILTON LAIRD, 
 t, EXCHANGE STREET, WEST ; in Loniwn to Messrs. OGILBY, 
 MOORE, & COMPANY, 3, INGRAM COURT, FENCHURCH STREET. 
 
 Cotnpany's Offices, 3, Mincing Lane, 
 
 London, May, 1854.
 
 NOaTH OF EUROPE 
 
 STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. 
 
 • THIS COMPANY'S FIRST-CLASS 
 
 POWERFUL AND SWIFT STEAIVI SHIPS 
 
 WILL BE DESPATCHED FROM OFF THE 
 
 ST. KATHERINE DOCKS, LONDON, 
 
 FOB 
 
 Hamburg every Friday. 
 Gothenburg every alternate Friday. 
 
 FROM GREAT GRIMSBY DOCKS, LINCOLNSHIRE, 
 
 FOR 
 
 Hamburgh every Saturday. 
 
 FROM HULL, FOR 
 Gothenburg every Friday 
 Christiania & Christiansand every Friday. 
 
 FROM LOWESTOFT, FOR 
 Tonning weekly during the Season. 
 
 For further particulars apply, in London, at the COMPANY'S OFFICES, 84, 
 KING WILLIAM STREET, or to C. MOLLER, 2, MUSCOVY COURT, 
 TOWER HILL. 
 
 In GRIMSBY, to J. J. ANDREWS, Company's Superintendent, or to 
 CAMMELL and Co. 
 In HULL, to THOS. WILSON, SONS, and COMPAJI^Y. 
 In LOWESTOFT, to H. NOTTINGHAM. 
 In HAMBURG, to JAMES BRUNTON. 
 In GOTHENBURG, to J.W. WILSON. 
 In CHRISTIANIA to A. de C. CROWE. 
 In TONNING, to LEXOW and JANSSEN.
 
 IIVEEPOOL 'GOLDEN' LINE*' 
 
 OF 
 
 PACKETS TO AUSTEALIA. 
 
 FGR MELBOURNE, SYDNEY, AND ADELAIDE. 
 
 LANDING PASSENGERS AND BAGGAGE ON THE WHARF, FREE OF CHABGE. 
 Ship Commander. Tons Reg. To Sail. 
 
 MIKDORO G. Crowell 1333 20th June 
 
 HERALD OF THE MORNING... J. Attridge 1374 1st July 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA Lesk 1700 TofoUow. 
 
 GOLDEN FLEECE (New Ship) 1800 TofoUaw. 
 
 GUIDING STAR J. Johnson 1475 TofoUow. 
 
 BRIDE OF THE SEAS R. Elder 1350 ...... TofoUow. 
 
 MILES BARTON W. Kelly 1034 TofoUow. 
 
 The above are all first-class Clipper Vessels, regular 
 Traders, and are commanded by men of experience 
 and ability J who will do all in their power to pro« 
 mote the comfort of Passengers, 
 
 EACH SHIP CARRIES AN EXPERIENCED SURGEON. 
 
 For Passages, &c. Apply to 
 
 MILLERS AND THOMPSON 
 
 4, Drurt-Lane, Water Street, 
 Liverpool
 
 STEAM FROM LIVERPOOL TO BRAZILS 
 
 AND 
 
 THE EIYER PLATE. 
 
 THE SOUTH AMERICAN 
 
 Airo 
 
 General Steam Navigation Company's 
 
 NEW AND POWERFUL 
 SCREW STEAM SHIPS, 
 
 Imperador, 1,800 tons, ) New Ships, building by Mr. John Laird, 
 Imperatriz, 1,800 tons, | to be ready in Aug. & Sept. respectively; 
 Bahiana, 1,700 tons, Capt. D. Green ; 
 Lusitania, 1,100 tons, Capt. James Bhown ; 
 Brazileira, 1,100 tons, Capt. H. T. Cox ; 
 
 SAIL FROM LIVERPOOL 0^!^ THE 24TH OF EACH MONTH 
 
 TO 
 
 LISBON, MADEIRA, PERNAMBUCO, BAHIA, & RIO JANEIRO. 
 
 At Rio Janeiro the Mails, Passengers, and Cargoes intended for the River 
 Plate will be forwarded by their new and fost Screw Steamer La Plata 
 which vessel will (after calling at Monte Video) proceed direct up to Buenos 
 Ayres. She returns from Buenos Ayres on the 13th ; Monte Video, on the 
 15th ; and- the Ocean Boats from Rio Janeiro, on the 29th of each month. 
 
 FARES: 
 
 LBT:RP00L to LISBON, 8 Guineas. 
 MADEIRA, 17 Guineas. 
 PERNAMBUCO, 30 Guineas. 
 
 BAHIA, 35 Guineas. 
 
 RIO JANEIRO, 40 Guineas. 
 
 RIVER PLATE, 45 Guineas. 
 
 Return Tickets issued to and from Lisbon for £15, available for four months 
 from date ; to and from Brazil at an abatement of 25 per cent., available for 
 six months. 
 
 These steamers load in Birkenhead Dock, and Shippers will please order 
 their goods to be sent dh'ect to the Company's warehouse. 
 
 NONE CAN BE RECEIVED AFTER THE 20th OF EACH MONTH. 
 
 \ For Terms of Freight, &c., apply in PARIS to PRITCHARD & MON- 
 
 VeRON ; in HAVRE, to AV. SLADE ; in LONDON, to W. L. OGILBY, 
 
 \00R & Co., Ingram-court, Fenchurch-street ; in Manchester, to HUGH 
 
 t,EMING, York Hotel-buildings ; in SOUTHAMPTON, to CROSKEY 
 
 ft\^o. ; or to the GENERAL BROKERS of the COMPANY, MILLERS 
 
 THOMPSON, 4, Drury Lane, Water Street, LIVERPOOL.
 
 THE CANADIAN STEAM NAVIGATION 
 COMPANY, 
 
 (Tinder Contract with Her Majesty's Provincial Government of Canada,^ 
 
 STEAM TWICET MONTH 
 
 TO ftUEBEC AND MONTREAL DIEECT, 
 
 On the 10th and 25 th of each Month, from April to November, 
 Retm'ning from Quebec on the 5th and 20th of each Month ; 
 
 Af^D ONCE A MONTH TO AND FROM PORTLAND DIRECT, 
 DURING WINTER. 
 
 THE COMPANY'S FIRST CLASS POWERFUL SCREW 
 STEAM SHIPS 
 
 Ship. Tons. Captain. Ship. Tons. 
 
 Ottawa, 1274, J. B. Atkms; 
 Cleopatra, 1451, H. Salt; 
 
 Charity, 1239, W, Paton; 
 
 Erie, 2000, (new); 
 
 Huron, 2000, (new); 
 Ontario, 3000, (new) ; 
 
 and the chartered steamer, Sarah Sands, 1300 tons, Capt. W. Ilsley; 
 SAIL FROM BIRKENHEAD DOCKS, LIVERPOOL, 
 
 WHEEB EVERY FACILITY IS GIVEN FOB LOADING AND DISCHABGING. 
 
 RATES OF PASSAGE. 
 
 FIRST CABIN TWENTY GUINEAS. 
 
 SECOND CABIN TWELVE GUINEAS. 
 
 Inchidiny Provisions, but not Wines or Liquors, 
 
 THIRD CLASS ... ... SIX GUINEAS. 
 
 Including Provisions properly cooked. 
 
 BACH VESSEL CARRIES A SURGEON. 
 
 Freight of Measurement Goods, 60^. per ton, and 5 per cent, primage 
 
 Coarse Goods, per agreement 
 
 Goods for these vessels will be received at the Transit Sheds, Birkenhead 
 
 Docks, and in Liverpool, at the Duke's Dock, at Shipper's risk and expense, 
 
 and will be shipped according to priority of arrival. 
 
 For Freight or Passage apply to PATRICK HENDERSON & Co., Glas- 
 gow; ortoLAMONT & McLARTY, Liverpool. 
 
 COMPANY'S OFFICES, 
 
 m 3, ROYAL mSURANCE BUILDINGS, NORTH JOHN STREF, 
 LIVERPOOL. 
 WILLIAM RUDD, Secretary
 
 THE LIVERPOOL 
 
 CELEBRATED ' .. 
 
 BLACK BALL LINE 
 
 OF 
 
 ATTSTRAIIAN PACKETS 
 
 SAIL FROM 
 
 LIYERPOOL EVERY FIFTEEN DAYS. 
 
 TARES, INCLUDING EVERY EXPENSE, 
 
 First Class, 45 Guineas; 
 
 Second Class, 25 to 30 Guineas; 
 
 Third Class, 18 to 20 Guineas. 
 
 THESE SPLENDID VESSELS CARRY EXPERIENCED 
 SURGEONS, 
 
 AND ARE UNDER THE SURVEY OP 
 
 HER IVIAJESTY'S GOVERNIVIENT INSPECTOR. 
 
 FOR FURTHER PARTICULARS APPLY TO 
 
 JfAMCS BAINES, AND Co., 
 
 6, COOK STREET, LIVERPOOL.
 
 EASTE RN COUNTIES R AILWAY. 
 
 From 1st of May the following arrangements of EXCURSIONS from 
 London came into operation : — Family Tickets to 
 
 YARMOUTH AND LOWESTOFT, 
 
 available for 28 days. Fares : — First class, 32s. ; second class, 253. — ^with a 
 ticket for one member of each family to and fro at greatly reduced prices* 
 An Excursion from London at 1.30 p.m. every Wednesday and Saturday, to 
 
 CAMBRIDGE, YARMOUTH, LOWESTOFT, ETC., 
 ■with option of returning within seven days. An Excursion to 
 
 IPSWICH OR HARWICH, 
 every Sunday, at 8 a.m., returning the same day. Fares, 7s. first, 53. second, 
 3s. 6d. third class. An Excursion to 
 
 IPSWICH OR HARWICH, 
 by steam vessel from Xorth Woolwich, in conjunction with 8.45 a.m, train 
 from Bishopsgate, returning by train from Ipswich same day. Fares — 6s., 
 first class and saloon ; 4s. third class and fore cabin. 
 
 For further particulars see placards or hand-bills, which may be had at 
 Bishopsgate Station on and after 25th inst. By Order. 
 
 Coaching Superintendent's office, 
 
 Bishopsgate Station, 18th April, 1854. 
 
 ■ THE 
 
 STANDARD LIFE ASSURANCE COMPY. 
 
 Estahlished 182-5. Constituted htj Act of ParUament. 
 
 Governor.— E.\» Grace the DUKE of BUCCLEUCH and QUEEXSBURY. 
 
 Deputy-Governor.— 1)\& Right Honourable the EARL of ELGIN and KIXCARDmE. 
 
 Chairman of the London Board.— The Right Honourable the EARL of ABERDEEN. 
 
 Ordixary Directors in London. 
 
 John Griffith Frith, Esq., Austin Friars. 
 Alexander Gillespie, Esq., 3, Billiter-court. 
 Alex. INLacgregor, Esq., ArUngton-treet. 
 
 J. Le Breton, Esq., 3, Crosby Square. 
 
 J. Lmdsav. Esq. 26, Lawrence Pountney-lane 
 
 T, H. Brooking, Esq., 14, New Broad-street. 
 
 Secretary in London PETER EWART. 
 
 THE STANDARD LIFE ASSURANCE COMPANY is one of the oldest and most 
 
 successful of the Scottish Life Offices, and the Directors attribute its high position in 
 
 Public favour to the unremitting care bestowed on its management, to the liberalitj' which 
 
 has marked its dealings, to the facilities granted to its Policy-holders, and to the succ 
 
 ful results of the business, as evinced by the division of Profits. 
 
 The Results of the Business fur the year ended 15th November, 1853, were repartee 
 
 follows : 
 Number of Proposals for Assurance made to the Directors _ - _ 1,059 
 Number of Assurance Policies issued, exclusive of annuity and other transactions 875 
 Sums proposed for Assurance _ _ _ _ - _ £55-5,544 7 
 
 Sums in Policies issued -------- £455,248 17 1 
 
 Premiums on New Policies, exclusive of Single Payments - £14,886 9 3 
 
 Claims by Death, exclusive of Bonus additions - - _ £84,445 17 ' 
 
 Addition'to Accumulated Fund during the year - - - £125,761 1 10 
 Annual. Revenue at 15th November, 1853 _ - - _ £2J5,035 6 2 
 
 The Results of the Business since 1845 were reported as folloics: 
 Number of Proposals for Assurance made to the Directors - - - - 8,3.51 
 
 Number of Assurance Policies issued, exclusive of annuity and other transactions 6,608 
 Sum- proposed for Assm-ance ------ £,5,000,498 12 4 
 
 Sums in Policies issued _ _ £3,9J3l,215 17 3 
 
 Claims by Death paid, exclusive of Bonus additions - . £491,210 14 4 
 
 [(See next page
 
 UNCHALLENGEABLE POLICIES AND FREE RESIDENCE 
 IN ANY PART OF THE WORLD. 
 
 When a person formerly assured his life, he generally looked to the rate of premium, 
 the prospects of bonus, and the general character of the office, but seldom gave attention 
 to the " Terms and Conditions" of Assurance. Within the last few years, however, indeed 
 since 1851, when this Company promulgated the system of " Select Assurance," admission 
 to which renders policies indisputable and unchallengeable on any ground whatever, the 
 question of "Terms and Conditions" has become a most important point of consideration, 
 and the day is quickly approaching when no one will hold a policy from an office which does 
 not give similar advantages. What a boon is it to heirs of entail, to borrowers of all de- 
 scriptions, to marriage trustees, in short to all classes, to know that, whatever may hap- 
 pen, wherever the assured may go, the claim will be met at death, subject to one simple 
 condition, that the annual premium originally stipulated be punctually paid. 
 
 ADVANCES ON THE SECURITY OF POLICIES-AND 
 
 SURRENDERS. 
 
 The Directors have also been led to consider the position of the Assured with reference 
 to Loans an the Security of their Policies, and to Surrenders, and in both these respects, 
 they have lately adopted rules of the most liberal character, allowing surrender value on 
 Participating Policies from the commencement of the Assurance, while the same sum 
 which would be given for surrender will be given in loan without expense beyond the 
 trifling stamp duty and at a rate of interest which landed securities alone command. 
 Thius at present the rate of interest is 3J per cent., and the Directors have followed this 
 course on the simple and unanswerable view, that the loan, being on the security of a 
 Policy with the Company, and within its value, should not require a higher rate of interest 
 than the security of land. With these facilities, no policy need be forfeited, except by 
 carelessness, so long as the Assiuance is of sufficient value to authorise an advance equi- 
 valent to the Premium. 
 
 CASES FROM THE BOOKS OF THE COMP^VNY, 1853, SHOWING THE BENEFITS OF LIFE 
 
 ASSURANCE. 
 
 On the 12th January, 1853, died A. B., aged 60, having effected an Assurance on his 
 Life for 3,00' 7. on loth Nov., 1851, when he was in perfect health. The sum assured, 
 3,00 /., has been paid to his Representatives. His payments to the Company were only 
 two years' premiums of 184?. 
 
 On 1st January, 1853, died C. D., aged 44, having effected an Assurance on his Life for 
 fiOO/. on 1st October, 1852, when he was in excellent health. His payment to the 
 Company was one half-year's premium of 11?. 10^. 
 
 These two cases show how complete and satisfactory such a provision is from the mo- 
 ment of a Policy being effected. The following cases will further illustrate the benefits 
 he system with reference more particularly to Participation in the Pnitits: — 
 
 i, ;i 23rd February, 1853, died E. F., aged 56. He effected an insurance on his Life in 
 ■"^-Jf for 700?., and there was added by the Company from the Profits 543?. 18s., maldng 
 '■■ Claim 1,243?. 185. 
 
 On 19th Jidy, 1853, died G. H., aged 80. He effected an Assurance on his Life in 
 182C for 500?., and there ivas added by the Company from the Profits 412?. 10*-., makini? 
 the Claim 912?. 10s. 
 
 On 1st August, 1853, died H. B., aged 71. He effected an Assurance on his Life for 
 !00?. in 182G, by Annual Payments of 7?. 9s. 6c?., and to the sum assured was added from 
 Jie Profits 155?. 8s., making the payment to his Representatives 355?. 8s. 
 
 Such examples could be much increased by quotations from the books, but the above 
 cases are sufficient to illustrate the great benefits and advantages of the system. 
 
 Every information can be obtained at the Offices of the Company in London, Edin> 
 bm-gh or Dublin, or at the Agencies. 
 
 By order of the Directors, WILLS!. THOS. THOMSON, Manager. 
 
 PETER EWART, Resident Secretary. 
 
 EDINBURGH, 3, George-Street; LONDON, 82, King WiUiam Street; 
 DUBLIN, 66, Upper Sackville Street.
 
 EDINBURGH LIFE ASSURANCE COIVIPANY. 
 
 Established in 1823. (Incorporated by Act of Parliament.) 
 
 CAPITAlT^SOOjOOO. 
 
 edtn" urgh : 22, george street. 11, king william st. (city), london, 
 glasgow: 59, st. vincent st. 35, north cumberland st., dublin. 
 
 Presidp:nt.— His Grace the Duke of Hamilton and Brandon. 
 Vice-President.— Sir Graham Graham Montgomery, of Stanhope, Bart, 
 
 EXTRAORDINARY DIRECTORS. 
 
 The Right Hon. Lord Justice General. 
 The Right Hon. Lord Rutlierfurd. 
 Henry Lumsden, Esq., of Auchendoir. 
 Sir David Dundas, of Dunira, Bart. 
 Wm. Oliver Rutherfurd, Esq., of Edgerton. 
 A. Goodsir, Esq.,Secy. to Brit. Linen Compy. 
 J. Cay, Esq., Advocate, Sheriff of Linlithgow. 
 James Hozier, Esq., of Newlands. 
 Captain Pringle Home Douglas, R.N, 
 C. Neaves, Esq., Solicitor-Gnl. for Scotland. 
 Jas. Mackenzie, Esq., Writer to the Signet. 
 George Mackintosh, Esq., of Geddes, 
 
 ORDINARY DIRECTORS. 
 
 John Elder, Esq., W.S. 
 Henry G. Dickson, Esq., W.S. 
 David Welsh, Esq., W.S. 
 James Brown, Esq., Accountant. 
 Richard Hunter, Esq., H.E.I.C.S. 
 George Hughes, Esq., W.S. 
 John Russell, Esq., P.C.S. 
 W. R. Baillie, Esq., W.S. 
 Christoplier Douglas, Esq., W.S. 
 Arthur Campbell, Esq., W.S. 
 Archibald W. Goldie, Esq., W.S. 
 William Forbes, Esq., Advocate. 
 
 Medical Officer— Jumes Mackenzie, M.D. 
 Auditor — Kenneth Mackenzie, Esq., Accountant. Solicitor— Jas. T^ Murray, Esq., W.S* 
 Manager — Gilbert L. Finlay. 
 
 LONDON 
 The Right Hon. the Earl Granville. 
 
 Secretary — William Dickson. 
 
 BOARD. 
 
 The Lord Alfred Paget, M.P, 
 
 John Anderson, Esq. 
 
 James Bonar, Esq. 
 
 Hugh Johnston, Esq. 
 
 Charles Staniforth, Esq., Residenf^ 
 
 The Honourable Robert Dundas, 
 John Abel Smith, Esq., M.P, 
 Arthur J. Blackwood, Esq. 
 Francis Whitmarsh, Esq., Q.C. 
 John Phillipps Judd, Esq. 
 
 Secretary — Frederick Chaplin, 
 
 Medical Officer — Robert Dickson, M.D., 16, Hertford Street, May Fair. 
 
 Bankers — Messrs. Smith, Payne, and Smiths. 
 
 Solici'ors — Messrs. Rowland & Hacon, 31, Fenchurch Street. 
 
 By Assuring in this Company, the full advantages of Mutual Assurance are obtained, 
 
 without its risks and liabilities. Nine-Tenths of the whole profits are divided among tlie 
 
 Assured ; and in some instances, the Bonuses already declared have exceeded the amount 
 
 of the original insurance. Parties interested in Leases for Lives, may Insure all the Live^ 
 
 in one Policy. No charge for Stamps on Policies. 
 
 Specimen of Rates for insuring £100 on a Single Life. 
 
 
 Without Participation 
 
 
 With Participation. | 
 
 Age. 
 
 One Year. 
 
 Seven Years. 
 
 For Life. 
 
 Age. 
 
 For Life. 
 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 20 
 
 17 3 
 
 19 11 
 
 1 14 2 
 
 20 
 
 1 17 4 
 
 30 
 
 1 1 3 
 
 14 8 
 
 2 3 7 
 
 30 
 
 2 7 7 
 
 40 
 
 1 6 10 
 
 1 11 10 
 
 2 17 11 
 
 40 
 
 3 3 2 
 
 50 
 
 1 15 1 
 
 2 4 5 
 
 4 17 
 
 50 
 
 4 9 
 
 60 
 
 3 18 
 
 3 18 11 
 
 6 4 4 
 
 60 
 
 6 15 8 
 
 The benefits of the Participation plan of Insurance are exhibited in the following examples 
 of Bonus Additions to Policies effected with this Company. 
 
 No. of 
 Policy. 
 
 Age at 
 Assuring 
 
 Sum Assured. 
 
 Bonus, 1835. 
 
 Bonus, 1842, 
 
 Bonus, 1849. 
 
 Total Sum 
 now payable. 
 
 560 
 
 488 
 
 266 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 67 
 62 
 60 
 54 
 
 47 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 100 
 1500 
 
 300 
 1000 
 2000 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 16 12 
 231 19 
 
 50 2 
 151 6 
 249 3 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 29 1 
 377 6 
 
 72 10 
 172 5 
 267 16 
 
 £ s, d. 
 82 1 
 903 2 
 168 16 
 356 1 
 463 17 
 
 £ s- d. 
 
 227 1^ 
 3012 7 
 
 591 8 
 1679 12 
 2980 16
 
 THE LIVERPOOL AND LONDON 
 FIRE AND LIFE mSURANCE COMPANY, 
 
 EstahUshed in 1836 — Empowered hy Act of Parliament. 
 , OFFICES, 37, CASTLE STREET, LIVERPOOL, 
 
 And 20 and 21, Poultry, London. 
 
 Trustees. — Sir Thomas Bernard Birch, Bart., Adam Hodgson, Esq., S. Thompson, Esq. 
 
 DIRECTORS IN LIVERPOOL. 
 Chairman. — Thomas Brocklebank, Esq. Deputy-Chairmen. — Joseph Christopher Ewartj 
 
 Esq., Francis Haywood, Esq. 
 Thomas Booth, Esq.; Francis C. Braun, Esq.; William Earle, Esq.; Geo. Grant, Esq.; 
 F. A. Hamfiton, Esq. ; Thomas Haigh, Esq. ; Robert Higgin, Esq. ; George Holt, Esq. ; 
 Hugh Hornby, Esq. ; George Hall Lawrence, Esq. ; Harold Littledale, Esq. ; William 
 Lowe, Esq. ; Alexander Macgregor, Esq. ; John Marriott, Esq. ; T. Sellar, Esq. ; Charles 
 Saunders, Esq. ; J. Swainson, Esq. ; Jas. A. Tobin, Esq. Secretary.— &Yi'mion Boult, Esq. 
 
 DIRECTORS m LONDON. 
 Chairman. — Matthew Forster, Esq. Deputy Chairman.— George Frederick Young, Esq. 
 Edwai-d Barnard, Esq. ; William Brown, Esq., M.P. ; Sir William P. de Bathe, Bart. ; 
 William Ewart, Esq., M.P. ; Frederick Harrison, Esq. ; Donald Larnach, Esq. ; Ross D, 
 Mangles, Esq., M.P. ; Hon. F. Ponsonby; John Ranking, Esq.; Edward Thompson, Esq.j 
 Swinton Boult, Esq., Secretary to the Company. 
 
 Resident <S'ecre?a7-w.— Benjamin Henderson, Esq. Avditors. — T. B. Blackbume, Esq., 
 and Daniel James, Esq. Bankers.— ^unk of Liverpool, Union Bank of London. Solici- 
 tors.— Messrs. Swift, Wagstaft', and Blenkinsop, Union Court, Liverpool ; Messrs. W. H. 
 and C. J. Palmer, IJedford Row, London. Medical Referees.— In London : Alexander 
 Anderson, Esq., F.R.C.S. In Liverpool: Robert Bickersteth, Esq. ; James R. W. Vose, 
 M.D. Surveyor.— 3o\m Stewart, Esq. 
 
 The Premiums received in the Fire Department in 1837 were 11,987?., in 1842 were 
 23,804?., in 1847 were 41,402?., in 1852 were 98,655?. And on Life Policies amounted, in 
 1837 to 1,755?., in 1842 to 3,163?., in 1847 to 21,197?., in 1852 to 50,800?. 
 
 By the First Act of Parliament obtained by the Company, it is expressly conditioned 
 that the liability of the Shareholders imder the Policies shall not be restricted by special 
 contract or other^vise. 
 
 CAPITAL AND RESOURCES. 
 
 The amount of capital subscribed exceeds 1,500,000?. 
 
 1853. 1834. 
 
 £198,072 10 Capital paid up, and in course of payment £201,322 10 
 
 398,153 4 9 Accumulated Founds 46.5,4U2 8 3 
 
 596,225 14 9 Together 666,724 18 3 
 
 INSURANCES AGAINST FIRE 
 
 Are undertaken on property of every description in the United Kingdom, the British 
 
 Colonies, and in Foreign Countries ; the Rates of Premium may be known on application. 
 
 The Premiums in 1853 were 113,612?. 
 
 LIFE INSURANCE, 
 
 The Directors continue to receive proposals for the sale and purchase of Annuities, En- 
 do^vTuents, Reversions and contingent Interests, and for Insm*ances on Lives. No En- 
 trance or Admission Fees are required, nor is any additional premium charged to Officers 
 in the Anny or Navy, unless called into actual service. The following are amongst the 
 advantages held out by the Company to persons wishing to effect Insurances on the Lives 
 of themselves or others : — 
 
 Unquestionahle Security, the property of all its Shareholders being the Capital of the 
 Company. Two Scales of Premiums, one loiver than those of most other Companies, se 
 curing the amount of Policy without any bonus; the other, lower than the Participating 
 Scales generally adopted and carrying guaranteed bonuses, or entitling to gtuiranteed re- 
 ductions in t\\e future premiums, on a plan entirely new and peculiar to this Institution. 
 
 The New Business of 1853 produced in Premiums 6,913?. The Annuities paid by the 
 Company exceed 9,000?. 
 
 Residences in the Australian Colonies, British America, and the United States, with- 
 (Wit extra charge. Great facilities for the payment of renewal premiums are afforded by 
 the Company's extensive system of Home, Colonial, and Foreign Agencies. 
 
 AGENCIES. — The Directors are prepared to receive applications for Agencies in towns 
 and districts in which appointments have not j'et been made. No application will be 
 attended to unless accompanied with imexceptionable references. Further infonnatiou 
 may. be had on application at the offices of the Company, or to any of the Agents. 
 
 SWINTON BOULT, Secretary to the Company.
 
 THE HOPE MUTUAL ASSURANCE 
 
 AND 
 
 HONES TY GUARAMEE S OCIETY. 
 
 Legally Incorporated Guarantee Fund, £100,000. Principal Departtmut* 
 
 4, Princes Street,^ Bank, London. 
 
 BOARDOF MANAGEMENT. 
 
 CHAIRMAN, 
 
 HENRY MORGAN VANE, Esq., Eaton Place, Belgrave Square, 
 
 VICE-CHAIRMAN. 
 
 Rev. JAMES WM. MASSIE, D.D., LL.D., Upper Clapton. 
 
 CHARLES DE BERGUE, Esq., Dowgate Hill, and Blackheath. 
 
 R. DOUGLAS, Esq., Carey Lane, and Stoke Newington. 
 
 LEWIS GLENTON, Esq., Blackheath. 
 
 HENRY PHILIP HOPE, Esq., Official Assignee, District Bankruptcy Court, Leeds, 
 
 and Osmond Thorp Hall. 
 CHARLES GEO. KNOX, Esq., LL.D., Stone Buildings, Lincoln's Inn, and Cpnsistorial. 
 
 Court, Arthur Street, Belfast. 
 WALTER F. ROBINSON, Esq., F.R.G.S., Piccadilly. 
 ROBERT THEOBALD, Esq., Paternoster Row, and Kentish Town. 
 FREDERIC N. VANE, Esq., JermjTi Street. St. James. 
 WILLIAM WHITE, Esq., (Messrs. White and Son), Cheapside. 
 
 General Manager- HENRI CHRISTOPHER EIFFE, Esq. 
 
 AUDITORS. 
 RICE HOPKINS, Esq., C.E., Parliament Street, Westminster, 
 WILLIAM KENT, Esq., Paternoster Row, and Norwood. 
 ARTHUR MEE, Esq., F.I.B.A., Pall Mall. 
 MEDICAL OFFICERS. 
 NICHOLAS PARKER, Esq.. M.D., Finsbury Square. 
 PRIOR PURVIS, Esq., M.D., Greenwich. 
 EDW. JOHNSON, Esq., M.D., Regent Street. 
 
 BANKERS. 
 
 Messrs. BARCLAY, BEVAN, TRITTON, & Co., Lombard Street. 
 
 SOLICITORS. 
 
 Messrs; TERELL& CHAMI5ERLAlN,Basinghall Street. 
 
 ABTANTAGE OF ASSURING IN THIS SOCIETY. 
 
 The Hope Mutual Life and Guarantee Association is founded on the purely mutual 
 principle, whereby any excess of premimn charged beyond the actual risk is returned, 
 \vith accumulations, to the assured or their representatives, in the shape of bonus addi-r 
 tions, or diminished premiums. By its constitution, the views of all classes of assurers 
 are acconunodated, and, by means of the ample Guarantee Fund of £100,000, in addition 
 to the accumidations of the annual income, their interests are protected and secured. 
 
 The business is conducted also upon the principle of low rates, without participation 
 in the profits. The whole of the profits divided among the assured for Life, all of whom 
 are proprietors, and possess control over the management, without responsibUity. 
 
 Giuirantee policies for fidelity of trust, in combination with life insurance, granted at 
 little more than the simple rate for ordinarv life. All polices indisputable, except in, 
 cases of fraud, and loans made to the policy holders. No charge to assured for medical fee, 
 stamp duty, or any other expense, save the simple premium. The Directors give favour- 
 able consideration to proposals from diseased or non-select cases, at premiums proportionecj 
 to the risk, a system especially advantageous to parties whose health may have been im- 
 paired by over attention to business, foreign residence, &c. Prospectuses, forms of pro- 
 posals for life, honesty guarantee, and loan, with every other information, may be obtained, 
 at the Society's Office, either personally or by letter. 
 By Order, 
 
 HENRI CHRISTOPHER EIFFE, 
 
 General JManager
 
 LIFE POLICIES 
 
 WHICH MAY BE 
 
 ANTICIPATED IN SICKNESS. 
 
 The Public are invited to read the Prospectus of the new species of Assurance, combining 
 LIFE and SICKNESS, now oftered by the 
 
 ENGLISH AND FOREIGN LIFE ASSURANCE COMPANY, 
 
 wliich presents the following advantages over every species of Life Assurance hitherto 
 
 adopted : — 
 
 A Life Policy is convertible into a fund for stupport in sickness, and by this means 
 greatly increasing the value and utility of this species of prudential investment. 
 
 There is jjerfect security offered by an incorporated company, with an available capital, 
 for every person subscribing. 
 
 A comparatively large sum payable at death, but open to be drawn upon previously, 
 in case of sickness. 
 
 The full realization to a subscriber, or his family, of all he subscribes for ; — by himself 
 in sickness, should he require it ; by his family should he not previously have antici- 
 pated it 
 
 Looked at from any point of view, such an adaptation of the principle of assurance 
 must be seen at once to be sound and beneficial ; and as having, therefore, the strongest 
 claims on attention. 
 
 For a small increase in the periodical payment, a subscriber may assure the payment 
 of from 2s. to 12s. per week, from and after the age of sixty-five for the residue of his life. 
 
 WILLIAM CARPENTER, 
 
 38, Arundel-street, Strand. Managing Director. 
 
 THE CATHOLIC 
 
 Law & General Life Assurance Company. 
 
 Incorporated tinder 7th and 8th Victoria, cap. 110. 
 
 8, NEW COVENTRY STREET, LEICESTER SQUARE, LONDON. 
 
 41, WESTMORELAND STREET, DUBLIN 
 
 1, NELSON STREET, EDINBURGH. 
 
 AND 18, RUE TRONCHET, PARIS. 
 
 Established 1846.— Capital £200,000. 
 
 The general business of this Company comprises Assurances on Lives in every form ; 
 the purchase of Life Interests and Reversions; the sale of Immediate and Defen-ed An- 
 nuities ; and the Endowment of Widows and Children. 
 
 The (."ompauy gives three-fourths of the profits to those assuring on the profit scale, 
 and (iiu'-fourth to the proprietors. Interest, at the rate of four per cent, per annum, is 
 allowed to the proprietors on the paid-up capital. 
 
 Persons may, without extra charge, pass from one part of the United Kingdom to 
 another — and go to and from any part of Europe in time of peace. 
 
 Tlie lives of Naval and ]\Iilitary Officers and Mariners Assured at moderate rates; 
 also those of persons resident in India, or any other portion of the world. 
 
 All kinds of Assurance, whether for Life or terms of years, are ettected for any sum, 
 from oil/, to 5,000?. 
 
 Premiums may be paid yearly, half-yearly, quarterly, or by a single payment. 
 
 The Age and Interest will be at any time admitted on satisfactory proof. 
 
 It must be understood that the word " Catholic" is used strictly in the sense of " Uni- 
 versal;" for though the Founders of this Institution have certainly for their chief object 
 the extension of the blessings of Life Assurance among the immense Catholic population 
 ■of Europe, j'et they do not exclude their brethren of other creeds from sharing the 
 peculiar advantages offered by this Company. Others besides Catholics sit at the Board 
 of Management, and are nimierous among both Shareholders and Assured. 
 
 [Continued on next page.
 
 No. I. Table. Annual Premiums for Aasurinrj £100 on a Single Life, payaUe at Death. . 
 
 Age 
 next 
 
 With 
 
 Without 
 
 Age 
 next 
 
 With 
 
 Without 
 
 Age 
 next 
 
 With 
 
 Without 
 
 Birth- 
 day. 
 
 Profits. 
 
 Profits. 
 
 Birth- 
 day. 
 
 Profits. 
 
 Profits. 
 
 Birth- 
 day. 
 
 Profits. 
 
 Profits. 
 
 
 I. s. d. 
 
 I. s. d. 
 
 
 I. s. d. 
 
 I. s. d. 
 
 
 I. S. 
 
 d. 
 
 /. s. d. 
 
 15 
 
 1 13 4 
 
 1 10 7 
 
 31 
 
 2 9 6 
 
 2 5 4 
 
 46 
 
 3 18 
 
 6 
 
 3 13 10 
 
 16 
 
 1 14 1 
 
 1 11 2 
 
 32 
 
 2 11 
 
 2 6 9 
 
 47 
 
 4 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 16 6 
 
 17 
 
 1 14 9 
 
 1 11 11 
 
 33 
 
 2 12 6 
 
 2 8 2 
 
 48 
 
 4 4 
 
 
 
 5 19 3 
 
 18 
 
 1 15 7 
 
 1 12 8 
 
 34 
 
 2 14 1 
 
 2 9 7 
 
 49 
 
 4 7 
 
 1 
 
 4 2 6 
 
 19 
 
 1 16 4 
 
 1 13 5 
 
 35 
 
 2 15 4 
 
 2 10 10 
 
 50 
 
 4 10 
 
 4 
 
 4 5 9 
 
 20 
 
 1 17 3 
 
 1 14 2 
 
 36 
 
 2 17 8 
 
 2 12 10 
 
 51 
 
 4 14 
 
 2 
 
 4 9 7 
 
 21 
 
 1 18 1 
 
 1 15 
 
 37 
 
 2 19 6 
 
 2 14 7 
 
 52 
 
 4 18 
 
 2 
 
 4 13 7 
 
 22 
 
 1 19 1 
 
 1 15 10 
 
 38 
 
 3 16 
 
 2 16 5 
 
 53 
 
 5 2 
 
 6 
 
 4 17 11 
 
 23 
 
 2 
 
 1 16 8 
 
 39 
 
 3 3 7 
 
 2 18 4 
 
 54 
 
 5 7 
 
 1 
 
 5 2 6 
 
 24 
 
 2 11 
 
 1 17 8 
 
 40 
 
 3 5 10 
 
 3 4 
 
 55 
 
 5 11 
 
 10 
 
 5 7 3 
 
 25 
 
 2 2 1 
 
 1 18 7 
 
 41 
 
 3 7 10 
 
 3 2 6 
 
 56 
 
 5 16 
 
 11 
 
 5 12 4 
 
 26 
 
 2 3 2 
 
 1 19 7 
 
 42 
 
 3 9 10 
 
 3 4 8 
 
 57 
 
 6 2 
 
 5 
 
 5 17 10 
 
 27 
 
 2 4 4 
 
 2 8 
 
 43 
 
 3 11 10 
 
 3 6 10 
 
 58 
 
 6 8 
 
 3 
 
 6 3 8 
 
 28 
 
 2 5 6 
 
 2 19 
 
 44 
 
 3 13 11 
 
 3 9 
 
 59 
 
 6 14 
 
 4 
 
 6 9 9 
 
 29 
 
 2 6 10 
 
 2 2 11 
 
 45 
 
 3 16 
 
 3 11 4 
 
 60 
 
 7 1 
 
 
 
 6 16 4 
 
 30 
 
 2 8 2 
 
 2 4 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Prospectuses, Forms of Proposal, and every information promptly forwarded, on appli- 
 cation to the Managing Director, at the Chief Office, 8, New Coventry-street, Leicester- 
 square, London, or to any of the Company's Airents. 
 
 MICHiVEL FORRISTALL, Esq., Managmg Director. 
 
 fptriitiijfs' issiiraitce glrauri 
 
 BRANCH OFFICE :— 2, EXETER CHANGE, WELLINGTON 
 STREET, STRAND, LONDON. 
 
 In order to meet the wants of the great body of the people, various modifications have 
 from time to time been made in the original system of Life Assurance. In accordance 
 •with this practice, the Directors of the " Catholic Life Office" have lately introduced 
 a combined plan of HEALTH AND LIFE ASSURANCE, by which the most impor- 
 tant advantages are secured to the less opident classes of society ; and by its means, be- 
 sides making a provision for his family in the event of his death, the petty tradesman, 
 industrious mechanic, and honest labom-er, when laid on the bed of sickness, will be pro- 
 vided with efficient professional advice and attendance, in order to efi"ect, so far as human 
 skill can avail, his speediest possible recovery. 
 
 Table showing the amount which can be assured at Death, by persons of the under- 
 mentioned ages, for the following (lunar) Monthly payments. The Assm'ed to be entitled 
 to Medical Attendance and Medicine during sickness. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 One ShiUmg 
 
 
 Age. 
 
 Fourpence a 
 
 Sixpence a 
 
 Eightpence a 
 
 One Shilling 
 
 and 
 
 TwoShiUinga 
 
 Month. 
 
 Month. 
 
 Month. 
 
 a Month. 
 
 Fourpence a 
 
 a Month 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Month. 
 
 
 Under. 
 
 /. s. d. 
 
 I. s. d. 
 
 /. s. 
 
 d. 
 
 I. s. d. 
 
 I. s. d. 
 
 /. s. d. 
 
 15 
 
 6 9 10 
 
 12 19 8 
 
 19 9 
 
 6 
 
 29 4 3 
 
 42 3 11 
 
 64 18 4 
 
 20 
 
 5 16 3 
 
 11 12 6 
 
 17 8 
 
 9 
 
 26 3 
 
 37 15 7 
 
 58 2 6 
 
 25 
 
 5 3 
 
 10 6 
 
 15 9 
 
 
 
 23 3 6 
 
 33 9 6 
 
 50 
 
 30 
 
 4 9 11 
 
 8 19 10 
 
 13 9 
 
 9 
 
 20 4 7 
 
 29 4 5 
 
 44 19 2 
 
 35 
 
 3 18 2 
 
 7 16 4 
 
 11 14 
 
 6 
 
 17 11 9 
 
 25 8 1 
 
 39 1 8 
 
 40 
 
 3 5 9 
 
 6 11 6 
 
 9 17 
 
 3 
 
 14 15 10 
 
 21 7 4 
 
 32 17 6 
 
 45 
 
 2 15 8 
 
 5 11 4 
 
 8 7 
 
 
 
 12 10 6 
 
 18 1 10 
 
 27 16 8 
 
 50 
 
 2 6 4 
 
 4 12 8 
 
 6 19 
 
 
 
 10 8 6 
 
 15 1 2 
 
 23 3 4 
 
 65 
 
 1 17 
 
 3 14 
 
 5 11 
 
 
 
 8 6 6 
 
 12 6 
 
 18 10 
 
 60 
 
 1 9 1 
 
 2 18 2 
 
 4 7 
 
 3 
 
 6 10 10 
 
 9 9 
 
 14 10 10 
 
 To suit the convenience of the assured, the premiums will be received either weekly, 
 monthly, or qiuirterly. It may be necessary to state that the paj-ments do not increase as 
 the person grows older, but the same amount that is paid at the commencement is con- 
 tinued tlu-oughout life. Prospectuses, and every additional inforn ation, may be obtained 
 at the Branch Office, 2, Exeter Change, Wellinu^toi Street North. Strand, any Eveauig 
 from Six tiU Eight o'clock. JOHN MOLTNETJX, Superhiteudent.
 
 NOETH BRITISH mSUEANCE COMPANY, 
 
 ESTABLISHED IN 1809. 
 
 INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER. 
 
 CAPITAL, ONE MILLION. 
 
 4, NEW BANK BUILDINGS, LOTHBURY, LONDON. 
 64, PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. 
 
 HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF SUTHERLAND, K.G. 
 
 THE MOST NOBLE THE MARQUIS OF ABERCORN, K.G. 
 
 Chairman of the London Board. — Sir PETEK LAUKIE, Alderman. 
 
 Deputy aaima^j.- JOHN I. GLENNIE, Esq. 
 
 Solicitor.— ALEX. DOBIE, Esq., 2, Lancaster Place. 
 
 Physician.— J OWR WEBSTER, M.D., F.R.S. 
 
 xSecr-etor?/.— ROBERT STRACHAN, Esq. 
 
 1. The Premiuins are moderately rated at all Ages, and may be so adjusted as to suit 
 the oWects and conveuience of Assurers. 
 
 2. The sum Insured maybe made payable to party himself on his attaining a Specified 
 Age — or to his Heirs or Assignees at his Death — or, alternatively, to himself on attaining 
 the Specified Age, or to his Heirs or Assignees, if he should die earlier. 
 
 EXAMPLE : — Annual Premium, 
 
 To secure £100 to the Assured, aged 30, on attaining the age of 35 ... £3 5 
 
 To secure £100 to his Heirs at his Death 2 3 
 
 To secure £100 to himself if he attain the age of 50, or to his Heirs or 
 
 Assignees if he die earlier 4 13 7 
 
 3. The Profits are allocated on the Life Assurance principle — each Policy drawing in 
 proportion to the sum Insured, and the number of Annual Premiume paid during the 
 period of Division. When it is remembered that the Bonus is declared as an addition to 
 the sum insured, payable when the Policy becomes a claim, it is seen that the age of the 
 assured is taken into account, for the present value of the Bonus varies with the age of 
 the party. For example : — 
 
 A Bonus addition of £100 to the Policy of a person now aged 30, is 
 
 worth in cash or present value £31 6 8 
 
 Whilst a like addition to the Policy of a person now aged CO, is worth 
 
 in cash or present value 58 19 2 
 
 By this mode of allocation, therefore, each one draws exactly the sum due to the Pre- 
 mimns he has' paid, and gets the full and fair advantage of his longevity, at whatever 
 age he insures, and to whatever age he may attain. 
 
 The Bonus declared for the Septennial Period ending 31st December, 1851, was at the 
 rate of one and a quarter per cent, per annum on the sum insured, and on the previous 
 Bonus additions, with a perspective Annual Bonus of one per cent. 
 
 Offices that divide their Profits on the Tontine principle may hold out the promise of 
 larger bonuses, but the chance of attaining them is, of course, proportionally less. 
 
 4. Bonuses may at any time be commuted for a cash payment, or applied in reduction 
 of future Premiums. 
 
 6. For the convenience of parties who wish to make their payments as small as possible 
 for the first few years, one-half of the Premiums may remain on Credit for five years, or 
 one-third during life ; or, if preferred, the Insurance may be effected on any of the 
 Company's ascending scales. 
 
 6. No extra charge for residence in British North America, the Cape, Australia, and 
 parts of the United States, and no license except for the voyage. 
 
 7. Advances are made on Policies to the extent of their acquired value. 
 
 8. No Entrance Money charged. 
 
 9. Fees to Medical Referees, for Reports on Health of Lives proposed for Inaurance 
 paid by the Office.
 
 THE ROYAL INSURANCE COIVIPANY, 
 
 ROYAL INSURANCE BUILDINGS, NORTH JOHN STREET & DALE STREET 
 LIVERPOOL; AND 29, LOMBARD STREET, LONDON 
 
 CAPITAL, £2,000,000, IN 100,000 SHARES OF £20 EACH. 
 
 Trustees : John Shaw Leigh, Esq. and R. B. B. H. Blundell, Esq. 
 
 DIRECTORS, ETC., IN LIVERPOOL. 
 
 Charles Turner, Esq., Chairman. 
 J. Bramley-Moore, Esq. and Ralph Brocklebank, Esq., Deputy Chairman. 
 
 Thos. Dyson Hornby, Esq. 
 George II. Horsfall, Esq. 
 Richard Houghton, Esq. 
 Edward Johnston, Esq. 
 Roger Lyon Jones, Esq. 
 James Lawrence, Esq. 
 
 Robert M'Andrew, Esq. 
 Wra. J. Marrow, Esq. 
 Francis ilaxwell, Esq. 
 George Maxwell, Esq. 
 WOliam Smith, Esq. 
 John Torr, Esq. 
 
 Michael Belcher, Esq. 
 Thomas Bouch, Esq. 
 Michael Bouslield, Esq. 
 David Cannon, Esq. 
 Thomas Dover, Esq. 
 Rob. Ellison Harvey, Esq, 
 James Holm j, Esq." 
 
 Auditors : "William Titherington, Esq., and John Dickinson, Esq. 
 
 Physician : Richard Formby, M.D. Surgeon: Hugh Neill, F.R.A.S, 
 
 Siu-veyor : Samuel Holme, Esq. Solicitor ; Septimus Booker, Esq, 
 
 Manager and Actuary : Percy M. Dove, Esq. 
 
 DIRECTORS, ETC., IN LONDON. 
 
 Samuel Baker, Esq. 
 Robert B. Byass, Esq. 
 Richard Cooke Coles, Esq. 
 
 John Westmorland, Esq. 
 
 Edward Mackmurdo, Esq. 
 Daniel Henry Rucker, Esq. 
 William W^ainwright, Esq. 
 
 Secretary to the London Board: J. B. Johnston, Esq. Solicitors: Messrs. Jenkinson, 
 
 Sweeting, and Jenkinson, 
 
 Surgeons : Eusebius A. Lloyd, Esq. F.R.C.S., Surgeon at Saint Bartholomew's Hospital, 
 
 and H. J. Sanderson, Esq., 29, Upper Berkeley-street, Portman-square. 
 
 Surveyor : John Belcher, Esq. Actuarj^ : Percy M. Dove, Esq. 
 
 The Directors beg to announce that they continue to receive Proposals for Fire and 
 
 Life Insurance. The large Capital of the Company, and the number and influence of its 
 
 Proprietors, enable it to rank wilh the most eligible Otfices in the Kingdom, with respect 
 
 to the advantages offered to the Public. 
 
 FIEE BRANCH. 
 
 Persons assured by this Company are not subject to any covenants or calls to make 
 go.od losses which may happen to themselves or others, nor do they depend upon an 
 uncertain fund or contribution, the Capital Stock of this Company being an unquestion- 
 able Secm-ity to the Assured in case of Loss or Damage by Fire. 
 
 Fire Insurances of all descriptions will be effected at moderate rates of Premium. The 
 Company will ever distinguish itself by its promptness in the Settlement of Claims. 
 
 No chai'ge made for the Policy. 
 
 LIFE BRANCH. 
 
 Special Notice. 
 STAMPS ON LIFE POLICIES NOT CHARGED. 
 Attention is directed to the fact that to a definite extent Life Premiums are not subject 
 to Income-tax, and that in certain cases Life Policies are exempt from the new 
 Succession Duties. 
 Payment of Life Premiums never disputed except in case of fraud. 
 
 T]ie important advantages afforded hy the Company in the Life Branch will include the 
 
 following, viz. — 
 1st. The Guarantee of an ample Capital and Exemption of the Assured from Liability 
 of Partnership. 2nd. Moderate Premiums. 3rd. Large Participation of Profits by the 
 Assured, amounting to Ttoo-thirds of its net amount. 4th. Small Cliarge for Manage- 
 ment. 
 
 \See next Page.
 
 Extract from J. IT. HartnoWs Letter to the President of the Board of Trade. 
 
 " I fear that the comments which have been made from time to time, in the Post 
 Magazine, on the success of the Royal Insurance Company, have had the mischievous 
 effect of creating a desire in many of the new Life Offices to ' try their hick ' in tlie Fire 
 line. Several engraftments of the kind have already been made, others are announced, 
 and more are privately talked of. The results that are exhibited in most of the 
 preceding summaries of accounts are not, however, verj' encouraging for such experi- 
 ments. It is as hazardous to enter upon a 'Little Fire Insurance business' as the good 
 old Duke used to say it was to enter upon a ' Little war.' " 
 
 PERCY M. DOVE, Manager and Actuary. 
 
 Prospectuses and every Information may he had on application at the Offices, or from tlie 
 
 Agents in Ireland. 
 
 Dtiblin . . T. K. Shaw & Co., 32, Dame-street. 
 
 „ J. R. Curry, 3, Forster-place. 
 
 Belfast . . Charlev &' Malcolm, .53, Donegal-quay. 
 
 „ Francis Plunkett, St. Ann's-buildings, Donegal-street. 
 
 Ballina . . T. McAndrew, Solicitor. 
 
 Cork . . W. Ronan, South Mall. 
 
 „ T. E. Hodder, 12, Merchant's-quay. 
 
 Clonmel . . Thomas Hughes, Old Quay. 
 
 Londonderry . J. O'Neill & Co., 103, Foyle-street. 
 
 Limerick . R. Anglin, 49, George-street. 
 
 „ M. O'Gorman, Upper William-street 
 
 Lismore . . T. H. Walker, Draper. 
 
 Neurry . . R. Greer, Bookseller, &c. 
 
 Portaferry . G. Johnson. 
 
 SUtfo . . J. Kidd & Co. 
 
 Waterford . J W. Condell, 7, Mall. 
 
 MAGNETIC TELEGRAPH 
 
 NOW ESTABLISHED THROUGHOUT IRELAND, 
 
 In connection by Submarine Cable with the Company's English Lines. 
 
 CORK, QUEENSTOWN, KILLARNEY, WATERFORD, LIMERICK, TIPPE- 
 KARY JUNCTION, DUBLIN, GALWAY, NEWRY, DUNDALK, DROGUEDA, 
 and BELFAST, are thus placed in immediate communication with all parts of England 
 and Scotland. 
 
 PRINCIPAL OFFICES IN IRELAND, 
 
 DUBLIN _ - . . College-green. 
 BELFAST ... - Bridge-street. 
 COKK ----- Georges'-street. 
 QUEENSTOWN - - . Westbourne-place. 
 
 PRINCIPAL OFFICES IN ENGLAND. 
 
 LONDON . - - . 72, Old Broad-street. 
 
 {A few doors from the Royal Exchange.) 
 LIVERPOOL- - - - Exchange-buildings. 
 MANCHESTER - - - Exchange Arcade. 
 
 Address not counted, and no charge made for porterage, (If within a mile.) 
 
 EDWARD B. BRIGHT, Secretary.
 
 STAH LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY, 
 
 CHIEF OFFICE, 
 
 No. 48, MOORGATE STREET, LONDON. 
 
 The STAR LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY was Founded in the year 1843. 
 
 The advantages it offers to Assurers include all the benefits which have been developed 
 during the progress of the system of Life Assurance, but the following deser\-e special 
 notice : _ , 
 
 Nine-tenths or Ninety per Cent of the Profits, ascertained every Five Years, divided 
 among Policy-holders, having paid Three Annual Premiums ; and Policy-holders to the 
 amount of £.5<X) and upwards, are entitled to attend and vote at the Annual General 
 Meetings. The Assured, by this arrangement, are made acquainted with the Manage- 
 ment, State, and Prospects of the Society every year. 
 
 2. Policy-holders to the amount of £2,000 and upwards, for the whole of Life, are 
 eligible for the Office of Director. 
 
 3. Thirty Days are allowed for the payment of the Premium, from the date of its 
 becoming due. 
 
 4. Premiums may be paid Quarterly, Half-yearly, or Annually, as may best suit the 
 con v-enience of the Assured. 
 
 5. Assured Persons (not being seafaring by profession) will be allowed to proceed in 
 time of peace, in decked vessels, to any Port in Europe, and return, without extra charge 
 or previous permission of the Directors. 
 
 6. No Claim Disputed, except in cases of palpable fraud ; an unintentional error will 
 not vitiate a policy. 
 
 7. All Claims paid within Fifty Days of their being passed by the Board. 
 
 8. No Stamps, Entrance Monev, or Fees of any kind, nor any charge made for Policies. 
 8. No Appearance before the Court of Directors required. 
 
 Prospectuses, Ac, containing full Tables of Rates, Forms of Proposals, and every 
 other information, will be forwarded (postage free) on application to any of the Society's 
 Agents, or to the Secretarj' at the Chief Office. 
 By Order of the Board, 
 
 vv . E. fiSXiXiMlAN^ Actuary axd Sf^retaet. 
 
 CHARLES GLENNY, 
 IVIANUFACTURER OF BALBRIGGAN HOSIERY 
 
 TO HER MAJESTY &; HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT. 
 
 Balbrigg^an House, 33, Lombard Street. 
 
 The beautiful manufiictures of Balbriggan were comparatively Kttle known 
 in England imtil the Great E.xhibition of 1851, where Mr. Glenny obtained 
 the Prize Medal, when the delicacy of the fabric of the hosiery and the 
 beauty of the workmanship at once excited universal attention. Nor is it to 
 be wondered at ; for so delicate and rich are the Balbriggan Stockings, that 
 silk at once sinks into comparative insignificance by their side— the latter 
 article possessing a degree of harshness in texture and appearance, from 
 which these cotton products are entirely free. — Morning Post. 
 
 NEW REGISTERED PORTMANTEAU, 
 
 SOLE INVENTOR AND MANUFACTUKER 
 
 P PHILLIPS 
 
 30, St. MARTIN'S LANE, TRAFALGAR SQUARE, LONDON, 
 Has many Compartments, all accessible, without occupying the space usual 
 in Patented Portmanteatis. 
 P. P. respectfully solicits Ladies and Gentlemen to inspect his Stock of 
 Portmanteaus, Deep Lnperials, Overland Trunks, Gentlemen's Compendiums, 
 &c., all of which are manufactured on the premises, 30, St. MARTIN'S 
 LANE, CHARING CROSS, LONDON, 
 
 WHOLESALE AND RETAIL.
 
 ORJENTAL, AUSTRAL IA!^, AND GEM ERAL STEAM AGENCY. 
 
 PARCELS, PACKAGES, 8; MERCHANDISE FORWARDED, 
 
 AND 
 
 PASSAGES ENGAGED TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 BAGGAGE SHIPPED. INSURANCES EFFECTED, &.C. 
 
 INDIA AND CHINA— Overland, 4th and 20tli of every Mouth. 
 
 AUSTRALIA— Overland, 4th July, and alternate months. 
 
 AUSTKALIA— Via Cape of Good Hope, 4th June, and alternate months. 
 Prospectuses, with reduced rates from 23. 6d. upwards, forwarded free, on 
 application. Overland Guides, 3rd Edition, revised, with a Map, pp. 74, 
 Price,_ Is., per Post, Is. 6d. Orders taken for every description of Indian and 
 Colonial Produce and Manufactured Articles, and for Seeds and Plants from 
 Tropical Climates. 
 
 G. W. WHEATLEY & Co. (Jute Waghom & Co.), 
 
 156, LEADENHALL STREET, LONDON . 
 
 OR BY THE FOLLOWING AGENTS IN IRELAND, 
 
 DUBLIN— J. Wallis, 25, Bachelors' Walk, and 13, North Wall, and at Gal- 
 way, Tuam, Ballinrobe, Castlebar, and Westport. 
 BELFAST— J. E. Richards, 22, Warning Street. 
 CORK— J. Besward, Jun., 29, Patrick's Hill. 
 
 PATENT PORTABLE WATER-CLOSETS, 
 
 ON WISS'S PRINCIPLE. 
 
 Upwards of Thirty Years' labour and experience have not only estabUshed 
 their superiority, but the decided conviction that they cannot be improved. 
 
 Ror.r.KT Wiss, the actual inventor and holder of the patent, feels justified 
 in calling attention to the above, as the most simple and perfect article of the 
 kind. Also Water-closets for fixing on the same principle, particularly re- 
 commended for the country and exportation, the machinery and cistern requir- 
 ing no more room than is occupied by the seat. To be seen in great variety 
 at the ma);ufactory. — Plumbers' Work of every description executed in town 
 and country. 
 
 ADDlil-:sS-38, CHAEING CROSS, NEAR THE ADMIRALTY, LONDON. 
 
 P H Y T H I A N , ^ 
 
 V/holesale Tea Dealer and Family Grocer, 
 
 430, WEST STRAND, 
 And 1, 2, & 3, King William Street, Adjoining. 
 
 Catalogues of Articles and Prices free on application. Families supplied at 
 Wholesale Prices. A reduction of 3d. per lb. by the 6 lbs. bag, and 4d. per 
 lb. by the Catty-box of 12 lbs. The Railway Charge paid for parcels of Tea 
 and General Grocery, of Two Pounds in value, to all parts of the Kingdom. 
 
 PHYTHZAN, LONDON.
 
 THE CONSERVATIVE LAND SOCIETY, 
 
 OFFTCRS: 33, NORFOLK STREET, STRAND, LONDON. 
 
 (Enrolled under 6 cj- 7 William IV., Cap. 32.) 
 Established Sept. 7, 1852, as a most eligible mode of investment, and for the purpose of 
 aiding members of all classes to obtain cheaply and speedily the Freehold franchise in 
 counties. 
 
 Trustees — Lord Viscount Ranelagh, Right Hon. R. A. Christopher. M.P., the Hon. 
 
 Colonel Lowther, M.P., and J. C. Cobbold, Esq., M.P. 
 The list of Patrons, General Committee, and Board of Directors includes upwards of 
 100 Noblemen, Members of Parliament, Clerg>-men, and Gentlemen. 
 The advantages of the Society as one of the best investments of the day are as follow: — 
 
 1. There is not tlie slightest personal liability on the part of the members for any debts 
 or engagements of the society ; being thus free from any partnership responsibility, they 
 only have to look to the pajnnent of their subscriptions. 
 
 2. The prompt withdrawal of Shares is secured, whenever a member wishes to draw 
 out his subscriptions. 
 
 3. The Society may be used as a Savings Bank, or as a means of acquiring land for 
 investment. 
 
 4. The taking of lots on Estates bought for the Society is quite optional. 
 
 5. Rights of choice are acquired either by the Monthly Public Drawings, by seniority 
 or date of membership, and by completion, that is paying up shares in full at once. 
 
 6. Rights of choice may be unexercised by the holder, who can sell them at a premium. 
 Premiums have varied from 3/. to 1.50/, per 50/. share. A register of Rights for sale is 
 kept at the office, open for public inspection. 
 
 7. Five per cent, interest is payable half yearly, one month after Lady-day and 
 Blichaelmas on completed shares wliich cost 52/. 5s. 6d. each share. 
 
 8. Five per cent, interest is allowed on all subscriptions of a year in advance and 
 upwards. 
 
 9. The profits of the Society are div-ided amongst the members at the end of every 
 vear. Six per cent, bonus was declared the first year, besides 7,800/. being put by as a 
 Kesers^e Fund. 
 
 10. Any number of shares may be taken, and the pajTnents may be made monthly, 
 quarterly, yearly, or in any mode the member may think fit, provided they be not less 
 than 8,<t. per month. 
 
 11. The Societj^ is within the reach of all classes, whether for a large or a small in- 
 vestment. 
 
 12. Ladies and minors (with the consent of their guardians) may become members. 
 
 13. There are no fines on unadvanced shares. 
 
 14. Eveiy conveyance of land is made out to the allottee free of every expense. 
 
 15. The Society will advance 44/. out of every 50/. share to a member who wishes to 
 take a lot on any estate. 
 
 16. The cost of a mortgage to a borrowing member is only 30«., with 20*. extra for 
 registration in iliddlesex and Yorkshire. 
 
 17. The choice of lots on estates is fixed by rotation, the order of rights being strictly 
 observed. 
 
 18. The general accounts, and all matters relating to the proceedings of the Society, 
 are laid before the members at quarterly and annual meetings, and are subject to their 
 entire controul and approval. 
 
 19. Ever}' facility is afforded to members in the appointment of responsible persons to 
 attend to the letting and selling of lots, receiving rents, &c. 
 
 20. The principle of purchasing land wholesale, and of allotting it, and rendering the 
 estate fit for building purposes, by constructing roads and draining the land, lias been 
 found by experience to produce the most profitable results to the members who have se- 
 lected lots. 
 
 21. Up to tbe 1st of May, 1854, upwards of 9,000 shares of 50/. per share, representing 
 a subscribed capital of 450,000/., have been taken. 
 
 22. The year's payment in advance on one share is 51. 3«. 6rf. : two shares, 10/. 6s.; 
 three shares, 15/. 8s. C<7. ; four shares, 2()/. II,*.; five shares, 25/. 13s. 6c/.; ten shares, 
 61/. 6s. ; one hundred shares, 512/. 13.<. ISIonthly payments on uncompleted sliares 8s. 
 per month, with Is. every three months for quarterage. The first payment of a new 
 member is 12s. Gd. which includes entrance fee, quarterage, and pass-book. 
 
 For Prospectuses, with a list of the Patrons, General and Executive Committee and 
 Officers of the Society, copies of the annual and quai'terly reports, balance sheet of 1853, 
 and places of estates, apply to 
 
 CHARLES ".EWIS GRUNEISEN, SecreUry.
 
 BtrCIINGHAM STREET STEEL PEN WOEKS, 
 
 BIRMINGHAM. 
 
 PATENTEES, 
 
 STEEL PEN MANUFACTURERS, 
 
 12, 13, 14, BUCKINGHAM STREET, 
 
 72, COLEMAN STREET, LONDON; 
 
 12, RUE MAUCONCIELLE, PARIS. 
 
 Messrs. H, W. & Co. haye just succeeded in effecting several important im- 
 provements in the manufacture of Steel Pens, by which their rigidity, and theii 
 liabiUty to corrode, have at length been overcome. They therefore beg to recom- 
 mend to the notice of the Pubhc their 
 
 PATENT AMALGAM aUILL SPRING PEN, 
 
 the action of which is precisely that of the QuUl. The improvements already 
 effected by Messrs. HINKS & WELLS have secm-ed them the first place amongst 
 the manufacturers of Steel Pens. They are now producing more than double Qie 
 quantity of any other Pen-Maker in the world.
 
 C. S. ETJTCHER, 
 21, GREAT CHARLES STREET, BIRMINGHAM, 
 
 Maxufacturer of all Descriptions of Crochet and Tambour Needle- 
 Cases, and every variety of Hair-Pin Boxes. Importer of Berlix Fancy 
 Baskets, Porte-Monxaies, Cigar-Cases, Reticules, &c. 
 
 Wholesale Dealer in Tooth, Nail, Shaving, and Hair Brushes, of every 
 quality, and at every price. Tea Trays, Tea Caddies, Inlaid Writing Folios, 
 Tortoiseshell and Pearl Card-Cases, Pearl and Ivory Tablets, &c. 
 
 Ladies' Companions, Leather Reticules, Pocket Books, Tablets, &c. &c. 
 
 PATENT NOISELESS BR"aSS CORNICE POLES, 
 RINGS, BRACKETS, STAIR RODS, ETC. ETC. 
 
 JIAJflJFACTURED BY 
 
 MARTIX BILLING, 
 
 CHARLES HENRY STREET, BIRMINGHAM. 
 
 LOXDOX ESTABLISmiENT : 143, HIGH HOLBORN. 
 
 AGENTS: 
 
 DUBLIN— Todd, Bims, & Co.. Drapers; Cannock, White, & Co.; M'Swiney, Delaney, 
 
 & Co. ; ]M'Bernev, Collis, & Co. 
 CORK— J. Carmichael & Co. 
 LEEDS— Deiibv & Co., Drapers. 
 
 LIVERPOOL-^. Carmichael & Co.; M. Ellis, Bold-street; S. Cutter. 
 MANCHESTER — Messrs. Kendle, ^Milne, & Faulkner, Dean-street. 
 EDINBURGH— Taylor & Sons, Cabinet-makers, Princes-street. 
 
 To Purcliasers of Window Cornice Poles. — Mr. Billing's Patent Xoiseless 
 
 Poles, Rings, &c., merit the earliest attentimi of Families Furnishing. The 
 
 advantages they possess over the common ones are innumerable, and when 
 
 seen must convince the most sceptical of their elegance, durability, and economy. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 " Among the many new inventions, the most useful is one by Mr. M. Billinjrs of metal 
 cornices, poles, rings, pictme rods, ifcc, manufactured upon a new principle. The advan- 
 tages claimed for these productions are of various kinds. The poles made in the ordinary 
 way are entirely of brass tubing. Tliose in question are lined with zinc, the mandril roll- 
 ing' to which tliey are subjected hardening the outer surface and improving the appear- 
 ance. The rings" and rods" are constructed in a similar manner. Tliey are far superior in 
 appeatance and durability to those hitherto prevalent, and are in great demand." — Times, 
 February 1st, 1853. 
 
 "NoisKLKss Brass Cobxice Poles, Rings, &c. — We have had an opportTmity of 
 inspecting these articles, the subject of a recent patent by Jlr. M. Billings. The inven- 
 tion is at "once simple and effective. The cornice poles are composed of two metals, the 
 combination having the effect of deadening the noise caused by drawing the rings across 
 them. TliC rings are similarly treated, and the invention is equally applicable to picture 
 rods, ivindow laths, brackets, &c. It has also this advantage, that the article can never 
 .split, a fault very common under the old stv'le of manufacture ; and that it is susceptible 
 of a richer polish and a more brilliant appearance." — Birminfjham Joumul,Nov. 20th, 1852. 
 
 THE BEST MATTING AND MATS 
 
 OF COCOA-NUT FIBRE. 
 The Jury of Class 28, Great Exhibition, awarded the Prize Medal to 
 
 T. TRELOAR, COCOA-NUT FIBRE MANUFACTURER, 
 
 A2, LUDGATE-HILL, LONDON.
 
 JAMES MATHERS, 
 
 PEG BOOT MANUFACTURER, 
 
 27, LOMBARD STREET, CITY, 
 LONDON. 
 
 The Neatness and Durability of Peg Boots, combined with the peculiar 
 advantage of retaining their original shape until entirchj ivorn out, render 
 them far superior to Boots manufactured upon any other principle. 
 
 N.B.-IMOrJE BUT THE BEST MATERIALS USED. 
 
 LASTS MADE TO FIT THE FEET. 
 
 LIGHT, CHEAP, AND DURABLE ROOFING. 
 
 CROGGON'S PATENT ASP HALT E ROOFING FELT 
 
 is perfectly impervious to rain, snow, and frost, and has been tested by a long 
 and extensive experience in all climates Saves half the timber required for 
 slates. Ca'i be laid on with great facility by farm servants or unpractised 
 persons. Price Id. per square foot. 
 
 CROGGON'S PATENT NON-CONDUCTING FELT, 
 
 for covering Steam-boilers and Pipes, saves 25 per cent, of fuel. 
 Samples and Testimonials sent by post, on application to CR06G0N and 
 Co., 2, D<3WGATE HILL, LONDON, who also supply SHIP SHEATH- 
 ING FELT, and INODOROUS FELT, for Damp Walls, and lining Iron 
 Houses, to equalize the temperature. 
 
 THE ORIGINAL DEPOT FOR DR. TOWNSEND'S 
 AMERICAN SARSAPARILLA, 
 
 {The first Established in England,) 
 
 368, STRAND, OPPOSITE BURGESS'S ITALIAN WAREHOUSE, 
 
 ALSO AMERICAN WAREHOUSE 
 
 For Jerome's celebrated American Clocks in every variety, wholesale, retail, and in bond. 
 Crockett's Patent American Leather Cloth, for the lininys of carriages and the upliolster- 
 ing of furniture, wholesale and retail. India Rubber Toys and otlier American Goods 
 including Historic Works on New York, Virginia, Ohio, <&c., on which the usual allowance 
 is made to tlie trade. Orders by post piuictually executed. Address J. MORLEY 
 American Warehouse, 368, Strand London
 
 JOHN CASSELL'g COFFEES. 
 
 THE EAKL OF ABERDEEN, in his place in t: e House of Lords, last August, saia, 
 "he had learnt from the best possible authoriu-, the head of the (Inland Keveuue) 
 Department, that the Coffee of that man (John Cnsseil) had been repeatedly analysed, and 
 found to be puke." JOHN CASSELL quotes this testimony to prove that the Cofteea 
 he sells as unmixed with Chicory are really unmixed. But to those who wisli to have a 
 fine, rich, delicious beverage, he would say, use the mixed article ; thi^ v.-ill produce a 
 " cup of really good Coffee." 
 
 The undermentioned are the prices of JOHN CASSELL'S Mixed Article. Attention 
 to the colour of the labels is necessary, as dealers are prohibited from describing the 
 ■weight, quaUty, or price in any other way :■ — 
 
 John Cassell's Coffee, No. 1, (Pink label) Is. Od. per lb. 
 
 John Casseirs Coffee, No. 2, (Blue label) Is. 2d. per lb. 
 
 Jolm Cassell's Coffee, No. 3, (Lilac label) Is. 4d. per lb. 
 
 John Cassell's Coffee, No. 4, (Yellow do.) Is. 8d. per lb. 
 The above are made up in Canisters containing one pound or half-poimd each, or in 
 air-tight packages of from four ounces to one pound each. Each package and canister 
 bears a fac-simile of JOHN CASSELL'S signature. 
 
 FURTHER REDUCTION OF DUTY ON 
 JOHN CASSELL'S TEAS. 
 
 A Further Eeduction of Fourpence per Pound Duty on all Teas brought from China 
 into this country having been made by Her Majesty's Government, JOHN CASSELL 
 begs to congratulate the Public on the great advantage they now possess in procuring 
 Teas of a more choice description and at greatly reduced prices. 
 
 A great advance in the import price of Tea has taken place since the previous reduc- 
 tion of Duty : in many cases equal to, and in others more than, the Duty then rejiealed. 
 Notwithstanding this advance, JOHN CASSELL continued to supply his Teas without 
 increasing the price to the consumer; and now he is determined that the Public shall 
 have the full advantage of the amount of Duty at present repealed, both as regards re- 
 duced price and improved quality. His late arrivals, which are brought in under the 
 new scale of Duties, are of such superior quality as must greatly extend the akeady 
 widely extended popularity of his Teas. 
 
 JOHN CASSELL'S Teas which are in such great demand throughout the kingdom, 
 on account of their rich and peculiarly delicious character, can now be had of his Agents 
 throughout the Country, ma^le up in Catty Packages from One Ounce to One Pound, at 
 the following remarkably low rates : — 
 
 BLACK TEAS. 
 
 John Cassell's Tea, No. 1 3s. 4d. per lb. 
 
 A genuine Congou. 
 
 Jolm Cassell's Tea, No. 2 3s. 8d. „ 
 
 A carefully selected Tea, possessing great strength and flavour. 
 
 John Cassell's Tea, No. 3 4s. Od. „ 
 
 A very choice Tea, Pekoe Souchong flavour. 
 
 John Cassell's Tea, No 4 4s. 4d. „ 
 
 A combination of tine and carefully cultivated Teas, possessing strength, richness, and 
 delicacy of flavour. 
 
 John Cassell's Tea, No. 5 4s. 8d. „ 
 
 HowQu.v's Mixture, to connoisseurs a real luxury. 
 The above Teas may also be had mixed with a portion of Green, at the same rates. 
 GREEN TEAS. 
 
 John Cassell's Tea, No. 1 3?. 8d. per lb. 
 
 Bright leaf, fresh, and good flavour, Hyson kind. 
 
 John Cassell's Tea, No. 2 4s. 8d. „ 
 
 Fine choice picked Hyson. 
 
 John Cassell's Tea, No. 3 6s. Od. „ 
 
 Finest true Heavy pearl Gunpowder. 
 _ Each package and canister of John Cassell's Teas and Coftees bears a fac-simile of his 
 signature, without which none are genuine. 
 
 JOHN CASSELL'S Teas and Cutlees are so'.d by one Agent in most to^\-ns throcgh- 
 out England and Ireland, and appointments are still made where there is not one already; 
 for terms apply to 80, Fenchurch Street, Loudon, or to the Wholesale Depot for IrekncL 
 69, Pame-street, Dublin,
 
 COMFORTS FOR CAM PAIGNING. 
 
 Waterproof Tents and Ground Sheets — Military 
 Camp Beds and Pillows — Compressible Sponging: 
 Baths— Air Cushions— Life Belts — Portable India- 
 Rubber Boats— Cloth Bottles and Drinking Cups- 
 Waterproof Epaulette Coats, Capes, Boots, and 
 
 Leggings, 
 
 Made of the only Proofing safe in all Climates. 
 
 CORDING'S WADING BOOTS 
 
 Are superior to anything hitherto made for the comfort of ANGLERS and SNIPE- 
 SHOOTERS. They are light, pliable, and never cracli; impervious to water for any 
 length of tune, and requke no dressing to keep them in condition. 
 
 CORDING'S WATERPROOFS 
 
 Have been tested for several years ; their general use by the Nobility and Gentry of the 
 United Kingdom, and the Officers of the Army and Navy in all parts of the world is a 
 guarantee of their service and durability. They are made of various fabrics, suitable for 
 Ladies' and Gentlemen's wear, and are acknowledged by those who have used them to 
 be the best and only ones to be relied on in all climates. 
 
 Yachting Jackets and Trousers— Leggings, 
 
 Petticoats, and Sou'- Westers — Travelling Knee 
 
 Wrappars— Driving and Travelling Gloves. 
 
 A LARGE STOCK OF WATERPROOFS ON HAKD, AND ANY 
 ARTICLE MADE TO ORDER. 
 
 231 
 
 CAUTION. — All Genuine Goods are Stamped with the Name, 
 
 J. C. CORDING, 
 
 STRAND, FIVE DOORS WEST OF TEMPLE BAR.
 
 MAKION'S RESILIENT BODICE 
 
 AND 
 
 CORSALETTO DI MEDICI. 
 
 Patented in England, France, Belgium, & Austria. 
 
 FiGDKE 1. — Front view of the Corsaletto di Medici, having resUients in conformity with 
 
 the movements of respiration. 
 Figure 2. — ^View of the Back of the Resilient Bodice and Corsaletto di iSIedici, with the 
 resilients in imitation of the natural arrangement of the muscles, and corresponding 
 therewith in the movements of the body 
 1 " It affords us great pleasure to ob- 2 
 
 serve the goodly array of our medical 
 brethren who have borne testimony in 
 /avour of the above useful invention "^^l 
 I — a beautifully elastic corset — than 
 which we conceive nothing can be 
 more desirable and covaplete."— Editor 
 of the Medical Circular. 
 
 " We think few who have seen it 
 will be disposed to disagree ■with us, 
 when we assert that it is infinitely 
 superior to anything of the kind which 
 has yet been introduced fcr the same 
 purpose, and in point of style andj 
 workmanship it is alike unexception- 
 able." — Editorial notice in "Le Follet" 
 the Leading Journal oj Fashion. 
 These unique inventions combine firmness with elasticity; they fasten easily in 
 front, tit closely, and retain the original sjTiimetry of their adjustinent. Their beautiful 
 resilient action, elegant appearance, and anatomical correctness, have already won for 
 them the highest admiration. They are judiciously adapted to everj' varying condition 
 of the female form, and are suited to everj' age, figure and habitude. Ladies in health, 
 convalescents, and invalids, wear them with equal satisfaction and advantage. In addi- 
 tion to the oblique transverse resilients are lateral elastic insertions, from the arms to the 
 Lips, and down the sides of the fastening, whereby the due balance of the figure is sus- 
 tained, and the tension equalised under all muscular and respiratory activity. Under the 
 open transverse work, quilted silk, fine flannel, or coutil, is inserted, enhancing the beauty 
 of the attire, preventing chilliness in the back, favouring free exhalation from the skin, 
 and promoting the general health. 
 
 The gores of elastic resilients in the lower part of the front, each side the fastening, 
 £given in the Corsaletto only, and are its distinguishing feature of variation from the 
 Bodice. The Corsaletto has the preference in the estimation of medical men ; its peculiar 
 construction conferring the utmost ease and pliancy over a region of the human frame 
 unceasingly mobile to the internal vital activities, the habitual compression of which 
 creates indigestion, disturbs the action of the heart, and exercises a debilitating influence 
 on the general health. 
 
 Bodices of plain Coutil or Jean, ■n-ith cotton elastic resilients, from 14s. to 20s. (chil- 
 dren's 4s. to lis.), and Corsalettos, 21s. Fine Silk Elastic resilients are used in Bodices 
 of best .'ingle Coutil, 21s., Corsalettos, 25s. ; and Bodices of best Double Coutil, at 2.5s. ; 
 Corsalettos, 3 is. Extra fine qualities in similar proportion. Side lacings added when 
 required, os. 6d. extra. 
 
 FINE LIGHT QUALITIES MADE UP FOR INDIA. 
 Enlarged Prospectus, with Tinted Iliustrations, details of prices, explicit directions 
 and papers for self-measurement, &c., sent free on receipt of two Stamps for postage. 
 Every article carefully made, veil finished throughout, and of guaranteed durability. 
 
 J^ ALL COUNTRY ORDERS SENT FREE. 
 
 LADIES' RESILIENT SUSTAINING BELTS, of fine elastic woven silk, self-adjust- 
 ing, -irithout fastenings, and affording an agreeable and unvarj-ing support in any 
 temperature. These belts are highly prized by all Ladies who have used them. They 
 wiU wash without injury, and are very durable. Also, a judicious assortment of Ladies' 
 Belts constructed on a practical knowledge of the varied necessities for support. Prices, 
 from 21s. to £3 Ss. 
 
 mESDAMES lYlARJON AND IVIAITLAND, 
 
 PATENTEES AND SOLE MANUFACTURERS, 54, CONNAUGHT TERRACE, 
 HYDE PARK, LONDON; AND AT THE CRYSTAL PALACE, SYDENHAM.
 
 WATER POISONED BY LEADEN PIPES. 
 
 " The above Engraving represents accurately a section of a leaden pipe, which was 
 employed for a short time in conveying water from a well on the grounds of Mr. Dick, of 
 Bonchurch, Isle of Wight. The original section of the pipe is 8.J inches long, 2^ inches 
 diameter, and 5-16 inches thick. A great part of the internal surlace is corroded by the 
 action of the water; but, as shown in the drawing, four deep excavations have'been 
 made, and another is shaded out of view by the manner in wliich the section of the pipe 
 has been cut. The water has cut these deep pits almost through the pipe, and not only 
 upon the portion which we have illustrated, but has formed similar chasms tluoughout 
 the entire length.— Expositor. 
 
 DURABILITY OF GUTTA PERCHA TUBI^TG. 
 
 Many inquiries having been made as to the durability of Gutta Percha 
 Tubing, the Gutta Percha Company have pleasure in giving publicity to the 
 following letters from parties who have had it in use for a considerable length 
 of time: — 
 
 From Sir Raymond Jarns, Ventnor, Isle of Wight. 
 (Second Testimonial.) 
 
 "March 10th, 1852. 
 " In reply to your letter received this morning, respecting the Gutta Percha Tubing 
 for pump service, I can state, with much satisfaction, it answers perfectly. IMany builders 
 and others have lately examined it, and there is not the least apparent difference since the 
 first laymg down, now several 3'ears. I am informed that it is to be adopted generally in 
 the houses that are being erected here." 
 
 From C. Hackei", Esq., Surveyor to Ids Grace the Duke of Bedford, 
 
 Woburn Park. 
 
 (Second Testimonial.) 
 
 "Office of AVorks, Woburn Park, Jan. 10th, 1852. 
 "Gentlemen, — In answer to your inquiries respecting the Gutta Percha Tubing for 
 Pump Suctions I find that the "water has not affected it in the least, although it will eat 
 lead through in two years. We have adopted it largely, being cheaper than lead, much 
 easier fixed, and a more perfect job." 
 
 Every variety of Gutta Percha articles, such as Mill Bands, Tubing, Soles, 
 Sheet, Pump Buckets, Fire Buckets, Bosses, Union Joints, Flasks, Bottles, 
 Bowls, Chamber Vessels, Toilet Trays, Curtain Rings, Galvanic Batteries, 
 Talbotype Trays, &c., &c.,manuf:ictured by the Gutta Percha Company, and 
 sold by their wholesale dealers in town and country. 
 
 Submarine and Subterranean Telegraph Wire insulated with 
 Gutta Percil\. 
 
 i?.B. — The Company's Illustrated Circulars, with Instructions for Joining 
 Tubes, &c., and for securely attaching Gutta Percha Soles, wiU be forwarded 
 (post free) on receipt of four postage stamps. 
 
 THE GUTTA PERCHA COMPANY, 
 
 ^ PATENTEES, 
 
 18, WHARF-ROAD, CITY-ROAD, LONDON. 
 
 c
 
 THE ROYAL CRYSTAL WAREHOUSES, 
 
 61 & 62, St. Paul's Churchyard, and 58 & 59, 
 
 Paternoster Row, 
 
 Are now Open for business upon a scale of Grandeur and Magnificence hitherto nnat- 
 
 tempted iu the Commercial "World. One visit to this vast Palace of Industrv will con- 
 
 \ince all who may honour the 
 
 LONDON MANTLE AND SHAWL COIVIPANY, 
 
 with their jjatronage, of the great advantages derivable from purchasing at their warehouses 
 
 British and Foreign Shawls, Silks, Mantillas, 
 and Dresses, 
 
 at ^Manufacturers' Prices, from the simple and economical Morning Costume to the most 
 elaborate and costly Oriental productions. Ladies inspecting the 
 
 CRYSTAL SALOONS OF THE COIVIPANY 
 
 may depend upon ci^nlity and every attention from the experienced Assistants of the 
 Establishment, and will not ia any case be importuned to purchase contrarj' to their wishes. 
 
 GLACE STRIPED AND CHECKED SILKS, 
 
 The full robe of 12 yards, 1 Guinea. 33,000 yards richest quality, IL 10s., much imder 
 value. 
 
 ECOSSAIS POULT DE SOIES, 
 
 1?. 18s. Gd. the robe of 12 yards width. Black, Glac^, Moir^, and Broch^ Silks, Satins, 
 <Src. 1/. 1.3s. to 3/. 3s. the 12 yards width. 1,870 richest Moire Antique and Brocaded SUks, 
 21. 18s. Gd. to 51. 
 
 IVSuslin Barege Sylphide Tissue, and Fancy Robes. 
 
 French Printed iluslins, 7s. Gd., 12 yards. Rich Organdie ditto, chintz patterns, 12s. 6d. 
 Swiss Cambrics, 4s. to 6.s. the dress, warranted fast colours. French Barege, 12s. 6c?. 
 to 18s. Gd. the flounced robe, of 16 yards. Several thousand useful robes, 10s. 6d., worth 
 ISs. yd. Copper-plate engravings and patterns sent fi-ee on application to the Company. 
 
 BRITISH AND FOREIGN SHAWLS, MANTILLAS, ETC. 
 
 9,700 Paisley Scarf ^Shawls, woven in one piece, 1 guinea. Several thousand pure Cash- 
 mere, 2 guineas. 29,700 Barege Tissue Sliawls, 15s. 9(Z,, all one price, 
 
 IXDIA, CHIXA, CRAPE, GREXADIXE, & SYLPHIDE SHAWLS, 
 
 in endless variety. The Mantle Department is replete with everj- novelty, amongst 
 which may be seen the 
 
 Celebrated TOGA, forming Four mantles in one, 
 
 and six of the most Superb and Costly Designs, as chosen by 
 HER MOST GRACIOUS IVIAJESTY. 
 
 Engravings of the Fashions sent post free on application to the 
 
 LONDON IViANTLE AND SHAWL COIVIPANY, 
 
 MANTLE AOT) SHAWL MANHPACTURERS TO THE QUEEN, 
 
 Royal Crystal Warehouses, 61 and 62, St. Paul's 
 
 Churchyard, and 58 and 59, Paternoster Row, 
 
 London.
 
 6
 
 ■ 
 
 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 
 A 000 132 834 3