NRLF MD fiSfi Li How to Amus urself and hers i- >- ,t ^-. r BY Lina Beard and Adelia RBear Charles ScribnerV/i "1905 ' \ c \0.5 COPYRIGHT, 1887, 1898, BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS SPECIAL NOTI C'E The publishers hereby give warning that the unauthorized printing of any portion of the text of this book, and the reproduction of any of the illustrations or diagrams, are expressly forbidden. PREFACE TO NEW EDITION. IN this age of wonderful discoveries and rapid develop- ments, our girls are called upon to keep well up with the times and in touch with life in all its progress. They now enter the regular college, and in addition to the studies, take part in many if not all of the athletic sports of the boys. The training of the girls of to-day differs widely from that deemed essential in the time of our grandmothers ; now, weather and occasion permitting, instead of sitting quietly at home with shoulders bent over superfluous fancy work, they don their short skirts and are off on their bicycles to the golf links ; or, dressed in their best gowns, flock to the Girls' Art, Literary, or Current - topics Club. It is to these rational pastimes that we owe the development of our fine, tall Amer- ican girls, whose splendid physiques have never before been equalled. The love of out-of-door sports is so great that many urgent requests have come to us for further information on modern recreations, and to meet the wishes of our girl friends all over the country, we have added eight new chapters to the original American Girl's Handy Book. The flattering reception of the previous editions of this 340391 ii Preface to New Edition. book by girls of all ages, from little maidens fashioning their " flower dolls," to older girls netting their own lawn-tennis nets, and also by many mothers who have renewed their girlish enthusiasm when following out directions given for numerous diversions, together with the many personal letters we have received from various parts of the country, have persuaded us to believe that this enlarged volume will be welcomed with the same cordiality accorded the first edition. PREFACE. " I DO wish some one would write a book like that for girls," is the remark we have frequently heard when a new book of sports for boys has made its appearance ; but it was not until the publication of the " American Boy's Handy Book " that it occurred to us to write a book for the Ameri- can boy's neglected sisters, which should be equally original and practical. In the " Girl's Handy Book," which it has been our en- deavor to make peculiarly American, we have sought to intro- duce original and novel ideas, and by their aid to open new avenues of enterprise and enjoyment. One of our objects is to impress upon the minds of the girls the fact that they all possess talent and ability to achieve more than they suppose possible, and we would encourage a belief in the truth of the remark said to have been made by a famous Frenchman : " When you Americans undertake any- thing you never stop to ascertain if it be possible, you simply do it." We desire also to help awaken the inventive faculty, usually uncultivated in girls, and, by giving detailed methods of new work and amusements, to put them on the road which they can travel and explore alone. iv Preface. We know well the feeling of hopelessness which accompanies vague directions, and, to make our explanations plain and lucid, we have ourselves, with very few exceptions, made all of the articles, played the games, and solved the problems described. The materials employed in the construction of the various articles are within easy reach of all, and the outlay, in most cases, little or nothing. We scarcely deem it necessary to point out the fact that in supplying healthy, sensible work and amusement for leisure hours, employment is given whose whole tendency is to refine the tastes and ambitions of our American girls. A few of our chapters are taken from articles which were written by us for, and published by, the Youth's Companion, St. Nicholas, Harper's Young People, Golden Days, and Wide Awake. CONTENTS. SPRING. CHAPTER L FIRST OF APRIL 3 First of April Party, 5 ; Mirror Tableau, 6 j Noah's Ark Peep-show, 8 ; The Supper, 10. CHAPTER II. WILD FLOWERS AND THEIR PRESERVATION 13 Transplanting Wild Flowers, 14 ; Cut Wild Flowers, 15 ; Sending Flovr- crs by Mail, 15 ; Preserved Flowers, 16 j Pressed Flowers and Leaves, 1 8 ; Leaves and Ferns for Decoration, 19 ; Color of Flowers Changed, 19 : Natural Wax Flowers, 20 ; To Freshen Cut Flowers, 20 ; Crystal- lized Flowers, 21 ; How to Preserve the Perfume of Flowers, 21 ; Spring Flowers in Winter, 23 ; The Four-leaved Clover, 23 ; Several Methods of Preserving Flowers, 24. CHAPTER IIL THE WALKING CLUB 27 Rules to be Observed, 31. CHAPTER IV. EASTER 33 Easter Customs in Other Lands, 33 ; Easter Egg Games, 36 ; Easter Egg Dolls, 39 ; Humpty Dumpty, 42 ; Miss Roily-poly, 45 ; Mandolin, 47 ; Maple-wax Easter Eggs, 49 ; Bonbon Box, 49 ; Easter Cards, 50 ; Lit- tle Quakeress, 52. vi Contents. CHAPTER V. MM How TO MAKE A LAWN-TENNIS NET 55 Rules for Lawn-Tennis, 63. CHAPTER VI. MAY-DAY 71 May-day Sports, 72 ; How to Make May-baskets, 74 ; May-day Combat, 75 j The May-pole, 77 j May-pole Dance, 79. SUMMER. CHAPTER VII. MIDSUMMER EVE 83 The New Fern-leaf Game, 85 j Fortune-telling : The Plaintain Test, 86 j Fortune's Wheel, 88. CHAPTER VIII. SEA-SIDE COTTAGE DECORATION 91 Window Decorations, 92 ; Row-boat Book-shelves, 95 ; Crab-net Work- basket, 96 ; Hat-rack, 98 ; Marine Screen, 99 ; Horseshoe -crab Bag, 102 ; Sea-urchin Vase and Candlestick, 102 ; How to Dry Starfish and to Polish Shells, 104. CHAPTER IX. A. GIRL'S FOURTH OF JULY 105 Interior Decoration, 107 ; In-door Illumination, 108 ; Out-of-door Decora- tion, 109; Fireworks, in ; Parachute, 112; Thunderbolts, 1 12 j Whirls, and Winged Fancies, 113; Pin-wheels, 114; Bombs, 115; Declaration of Independence, 117 ; Toss, 118 ; Fourth of July Jackstraws, 119 ; Pro- gressive Mining, 119. Contents. vii CHAPTER X. YAOX PRINTING FROM NATURE'S TYPES 123 Impression Album, 123 ; Winter Landscape, 127. CHAPTER XL PICNICS, BURGOOS, AND CORN-ROASTS 131 A Burgoo, 132 ; Burgoo Stew, 133 ; A Corn-roast, 134. CHAPTER XIL BOTANY AS APPLIED TO ART 139 The Peony Leaf, 140 ; A Bunch of Turnips, 142 ; Plant Cross-section De- signs, 144 ; Flower Sprays, 146 ; Changing the Color, 146 ; Burs, 147 ; The Water- Lily, 148. CHAPTER XIIL DOOR-STEP PARTY AND QUIET GAMES FOR HOT WEATHER 151 Five Minutes' Conversation, 153 ; Blind Man's Singing-school, 155 ; A Game of Noted Men, 155 ; What Will you Take to the Picnic? 156; Assumed Characters, 157 ; Shadow Verbs, 157. CHAPTER XIV. How TO MAKE A HAMMOCK 159 Materials, 161 ; Barrel Hammock, 165. CHAPTER XV. (For Little GirlO CORN-HUSK AND FLOWER DOLLS ,.. .. 169 CHAPTER XVI. How TO MAKE A FAN k . 177 Butterfly Fan, 178 ; Mikado Fan, 180 ; Daisy Fan, 182 ; Cardboard Fan, 183- viii Contents. AUTUMN. CHAPTER XVIL PACE ALL-HALLOW-EVE 187 Halloween Parties, 189 ; Melted Lead, 190 j Nutshell Boats, 192 ; < Three Luggies," 193 ; Roasting Nuts, 193 ; Kaling, 194 ; The Magic Mirror, 194 ; Three Tin Cups, 195 ; The Ring Cake, 195 ; Bobbing for Apples, 196 ; The Ghostly Fire, 197 ; The Fairy's Gifts, 198. CHAPTER XVIII. NATURE'S FALL DECORATIONS AND How TO USE THEM 201 Fresh Autumn Wild Flowers, 202 ; Buckeye Portiere, 204 ; Panel of Fall Decorations, 205 ; Louis Quinze Screen, 206 ; A Panel of Field Corn, 209 ; Ornamental Gourds, 210 ; Gourd-Dippers and Bowls, 211 ; Vases, 212 ; Small Decorations, 214; Brackets, 214. CHAPTER XIX. NUTTING-PARTIES 217 " Little Brown Squirrel," 218; Rules for Nutting- Parties, 221. CHAPTER XX. How TO MAKE A TELEPHONE 224 CHAPTER XXL How TO DRAW 229 CHAPTER XXIL How TO PAINT IN WATER-COLORS .238 Materials for Water-Color Painting, 238 ; Flowers, 239 ; Landscapes, 241 ; Painting from Notes, 244. Contents. ix CHAPTER XXIIL How TO PAINT IN OIL-COLORS 249 Materials, 249; Mediums, 251; Canvas, 251; The Light, 252; Setting the Palette, 253. CHAPTER XXIV. How TO MODEL IN CLAY AND WAX 257 Materials, 259 ; How to Manage Clay, 260 ; Hints for Modelling a Head, 262 ; How to Model in Wax, 263 ; Modelling- wax, 263. CHAPTER XXV. How TO MAKE PLASTER CASTS 267 CHAPTER XXVL CHINA PAINTING 272 List of Materials, 272 ; A Monochrome Painting, 278 ; Tinting, 278 ; New Method of Decorating China, 279 ; Tracing, 280 ; Mottled Grounds, 281 ; Snow Landscape, 281 ; How to Paint a Head on China, 284 ; How to Paint a Carp, Sea-weed, and Fish-net, on China, 287 ; Foliage on China made with a Sponge, 289 ; Mixing Colors, 289 j Royal Worcester Ware, 290. CHAPTER XXVIL A CHAPTER ON FRAMES 295 Marine Picture Frame, 296 ; Decorated Frame, 297 ; Frame Covered with Tin-foil, 298 ; Cork Frame, 299. CHAPTER XXVIII. THANKSGIVING 302 Impromptu Burlesque Tableaux, 304 ; Landing of the Pilgrims, 305 ; First Harvest, 307 ; Devastation by the Indians, 308 ; The Revolution, 309 ; Slavery, 310; Rebellion, 310; Peace and Plenty, 310; The Game of the Headless Turkey, 312 ; A Suggestion, 313. Contents. WINTER. CHAPTER XXIX. PAGE CHRISTMAS FESTIVITIES AND HOME-MADE CHRISTMAS GIFTS 317 Julklapp, 319 ; Polish Custom, 320 ; The Bran Pie, 321 j The Blind Man's Stocking, 321 ; Home-made Christmas Gifts, 322. CHAPTER XXX. AMUSEMENTS AND GAMES FOR THE CHRISTMAS HOLIDAYS 334 New Game of Bubble Bowling, 335 ; Biographical Nonsense, 339 ; Comic Historic Tableaux, 341 ; Living Christmas Cards, 342. CHAPTER XXXI. NEW YEAR'S AND A LEAP YEAR PARTY 347 Pantomime of an Enchanted Girl, 348. CHAPTER XXXII. HOME GYMNASIUM 353 Course of Exercises, 356. CHAPTER XXXIII. A DECORATIVE LANGUAGE 364 The Field and the Points of Heraldry, 366 ; Divisions, 367 ; Colors, 369 ; How to Make a Design in Decorative Language, 371 ; Book-plates, 377 ; Floral Vocabulary, 377. CHAPTER XXXIV. . A FEW ITEMS ON OLD-FASHIONED NEEDLEWORK, WITH SOME NEW AND ORIGINAL PATTERNS 380 Plain Sewing, 380 ; Button-holes, 383 ; How to Patch, to Sew on a But- ton, and to Mend a Kid Glove, 386 ; Fancy Stitches, 387 ; Drawn Work, 389 ; Applique and Original Designs for Portieres, 391 ; Lace, 393 ; Ribbon Embroideries, 393. Contents. xi CHAPTER XXXV. SCRAP-BOOK AND HOME-MADE BOOK-COVERS 395 Mother Goose Scrap-book, 395 ; Transformation Scrap-book, 398 ; An Album, 400 ; Home-made Book-cover, 401. CHAPTER XXXVI. A HEAP OF RUBBISH AND WHAT TO Do WITH IT 403 The Mirror, 404 ; The Table, 406 ; Lantern, 408 ; A Music Roll, 410 ; Work-basket, 411 ; Key and Button-hook Rack and Paper Weight, 412. CHAPTER XXXVII. How TO MAKE ATTRACTIVE BOOTHS AT A FAIR A NEW KIND OF GRAB* BAG 413 The Tables, 413; Flowers for Decorations, 417; The Months, 420; The Five Senses, 421; Walls, 423; Grab-bags, 423 ; The Lady of the Lake, 425 ; Fortune's Wheel, 426 ; Rag-balls, 427. CHAPTER XXXVIII. WINDOW DECORATION 429 Oriental Window-shade, 430 ; Ribbon-curtain, 430 ; Drapery of Very Small Scraps, 431 ; Painting Window-panes, 432 ; Painting on Lawn, 434 ; To Imitate Stained Glass, 435 ; Windows of Imitation Ground Glass, 436. CHAPTER XXXIX. FURNITURE, OLD AND NEW 438 The Bookcase, 439 ; The Chair, 441 ; The Bedstead, 444 ; A Dressing- table, 444 ; Washstand, 446 ; A Hall Seat, 447 ; Window Seat and Book-shelves, combined, 448. CHAPTER XL. SOMETHING ABOUT MANTLE-PIECES AND FIRE-PLACES...,,...,, 451 xii Contents. CHAPTER XLI. PAGB HOME-MADE CANDY 458 Peanut Candy, Butter Scotch and Molasses Candy, 459 ; Walnut and Fruit Glace*, 460 ; Marshmallow Paste, 460 ; Chocolate Caramels, 461 ; Pop- corn Balls, 462. CHAPTER XLII. SAINT VALENTINE'S DAY 464 Valentine Party, 465. Additional Suggestions for the Four Seasons. SPRING. CHAPTER XLIII. BICYCLING 469 Correctly and Incorrectly, 471 ; The Choice of a Bicycle, 472 ; Weight and Gear of Bicycle, 474 ; Bicycle Accessories, 474 ; Adjustment of Saddle and Handle-bar Correct Position on the Bicycle, 474 ; Mount- ing, 476 ; Dismounting, 476 ; Riding, 477 ; Going Up Hill, 478 ; Going Down Hill, 479 ; Rules of the Road, 479 ; Care of the Wheel, 480 ; Oiling, 481 ; Something Wrong with Your Bicycle, 482 ; General Rules of Health to be Observed while Riding, 482 ; The Bicycle Costume, 483. SUMMER. CHAPTER XLIV. A NEW SEA-SHORE GAME 485 Tit, Tat, Toe Played with Living Figures, 485 ; Good Beach Needed, 487 ; The Sides, 487 ; The Game, 488 ; The Next Move, 490. Contents. xiii CHAPTER XLV. PAGH SWIMMING 492 Desirability of Confidence, 492 ; Fresh and Salt Water, 493 ; Of the Various Methods of Keeping Afloat while Learning, 493 ; When a Life- preserver Is Used, 493 ; Movements in Swimming, 494 ; Floating, 495 ; Diving, 495 ; Breathing, 497. CHAPTER XLVI. APPLE TARGET-SHOOTING 499 The Target, 500 ; How Painted, 501 ; The Sticks and Apples, 502 ; How to Score, 502. AUTUMN. CHAPTER XLVII. GOLF. ... 504 Links, 505 ; Hazards, or Bunkers, 505 ; The Holes, 506 ; Teeing-ground, 508; Tee, 509; The Green, 509; The Putting-green, 510; Clubs, 511 ; Balls, 511 ; Flags, 511 ; The Game, 512 ; Dress, 515 ; Rules for the Game of Golf, 516 ; Glossary of Technical Terms Employed in the Game of Golf, 520. CHAPTER XLVIII. PHYSICAL CULTURE 526 How to Breathe, Stand, Walk, and Sit Correctly, 526 ; Lift Up Your Chest, 526 ; Breathing, 527 ; One Nostril, 527 ; Full Breathing, 528 ; Shoulders Down, 529 ; Breathing-rules, 529 ; Stand Correctly, 530 ; An Habitual Good Carriage, 531 ; Walk Correctly, 532 ; Sit Correctly, 534 ; Arise, 535. WINTER. CHAPTER XLIX. GIRLS' CLUBS 537 How to Form a Club, 538 ; The Name and the Constitution, 540 ; How to Organize, 542 ; How to Conduct a Regular Meeting, 542 ; Effective- ness in Speaking, 544 ; How to Make and Treat a Motion, 545. CHAPTER L. LIVELY WATER-FAIRIES 547 Good Patterns, 550. The American Girl's Handy Book. CHAPTER I. FIRST OF APRIL. HIS is the children's own day, and no assumption of dignity on the part of their elders can deter them from exercising the privileges granted to them by acknowledged custom and precedent. " April fool! April fool!" cries my little nephew, as he dances with delight to see his aunt walk out of the room with a piece of white paper dangling from a hooked pin, attached to her dress. " April fool ! April fool ! " shout the children in the street, thus announcing the success of some practical joke. "April fool ! " laughs everyone at the table, when some un- fortunate bites into a brown, wholesome-looking cruller, only to find it a delusion and a snare, the coat of a cruller, but the inside of cotton. " April fool ! April fool ! " is what even the little sparrows seem Spring. to chirp, as with a " s-w-h-e-r-r " they sweep down from the tree and, frightening away the kitten, take forcible possession of her bone. What does all this mean ? Why is the first day of April called " All-Fools-Day/' and when or where did the custom of the day originate ? Who can tell ? No one seems to know. Even the derivation of the word April does not ap- pear to have been definitely settled, and this saucy month, with ner mischievous tricks and pranks, her surprises and mysteries, fools and puzzles our wisest men. Through many centuries the observance of All-Fools-Day has descended to us. In many climes and many countries this day is chosen as the proper time for playing tricks on the un- suspecting. " Festum Fatuorum," or " Fools' Holiday," is what it was called in England at the time of the arrival of the early Christians in that country. Easily caught like the mackerel, which are plentiful on the French coast in April and are said to be deficient in understand- ing, the April fool in France derives his name from that fish, and is called " Poisson d'Avril" or "April Fish," and again, " Silly Mackerel." From the cuckoo, a bird that does not know enough to build its own nest, the appellation of " gowk " is taken, and is given to the foolish one in Scotland who allows himself to be duped on this day. In India at the festival called Huli Festival held on the last day of March, the natives make merry at the expense of their friends, just as we do, and their fool is called " Huli Fool." So in the East and in the West, in the North and in the South, in the oldest nation as well as the youngest, is this ridiculous custom observed, and, as if to make it still more ridiculous, no one apparently knows why. Now, girls, since this holiday has descended to us from so far back that its origin appears lost in the dim twilight of past ages, First of April. there surely must be some reason for its existence, and that reason may be, that " a little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men," and is therefore wholesome as an occasional diet. So why not help to perpetuate it ; not with rude, practical jokes, but with comical surprises, and absurd, but unembarrassing, sit- uations. Much harmless fun can be derived from the privileges of this day, devoted as it is to nonsense, and we introduce the April Fool Party as an excellent means of concentrating the fun, and furnishing plenty of merriment to the young folks who are bent on having a good time. First of April Party. I remember, when quite a little girl, I was granted the privi- lege of celebrating my birthday, which came on the 1st of April, with a candy-pull, and a few days previous to the event I started joyfully off to invite my friends. The invitations were laughingly given and accepted, and it did not occur to me that I would be suspected of playing a joke, although the party was to be on April-Fools-Day. It seems, however, that my good in- tentions were doubted, and the children were undecided whether to come or not. I had begun to suspect that a joke was to be played on me by their all remaining away, before they finally arrived in a body, having taken the precaution of coming in that way, so that if the party were a hoax they would all be fooled together. I relate this incident that warning may be taken from my ex- perience, and that it may be understood how important it is to make the guests invited to your First of April party realize that the invitations are given in good faith, and that your friends are expected to be on hand at the appointed time. It is well, in giving a party of this kind, to have the whole programme laid out beforehand, so that everything may go smoothly and nothing be forgotten. 6 Spring. The few methods of April fooling given here need not con- stitute the whole entertainment ; the list may be added to by the young hostess, who will, no doubt, have many ideas of her own to carry out. We will head our list with the Mirror Tableau. This novel tableau is made ready in the following manner : In a door-way, or bay-window draped with full curtains, place a large mirror. Instead of having the curtains suspended from the usual pole, it is best to stretch a wire across the space and slip the curtain-rings upon that, as they will slide more readily on the wire ; and when it is time to draw back the dra- pery it should be done quickly. A table placed before the cur- tains will serve as a barricade, keeping the too curious from tak- ing a peep at the hidden mysteries before they are ready to be revealed. At the time selected, remove the table, and request all those desiring to see the tableau to arrange themselves in front of the curtain, and to remain perfectly quiet, as any movement will dis- turb those taking part. If the front rows of the audience can be induced to kneel or sit upon the floor, those in the rear can obtain a better view, and it will, at the same time, make the group more effective. When perfect quiet is obtained, give the signal to your assistant, who must stand opposite to you at the side of the curtain, and with her help quickly draw aside the draperies, thus disclosing the tableau of a group of young people, motionless, gazing into the mirror with eager and expectant eyes. For an instant the audience will be held spell-bound, scarcely realizing that they themselves are forming the pretty tableau. " We are April Fools," written with soap on the mirror near the top, as shown in the illustration, tells what character the actors are assuming, and gives a name to the tableau. First of April The Mirror Tableau. 8 Spring. During the interval which should be allowed to intervene before introducing the next thing on the programme, the guests will find amusement in the many harmless practical jokes which are awaiting the unwary in all manner of places. For instance, some boy will print APRIL FOOL in large white letters on his own back, by simply resting for a moment in a convenient chair upon whose snowy tidy the dreaded words have previously been printed backwards with white chalk. On the dark woolly surface of the coat, the white letters will be perfectly transferred, and the boy, little knowing what he has done, or the cause of the merriment, will join in the general laughter his appearance creates. A treacherous divan can be provided by removing the top of a low, flat packing-box, and putting in its place brown wrap- ping-paper, tacking it down around the edges of the box. With a piece of drapery thrown over it, entirely concealing the box, and sofa pillows placed upon it, leaning against the wall, the divan looks exceedingly comfortable and inviting. But woe unto the person who mistakes appearances for reality, for to at- tempt to sit upon this seeming substantial couch is but to break through and sit upon the floor instead. The box used for the divan should not be more than twelve inches high, so that the fall will be only funny, not dangerous. The next diversion may be a Noah's Ark Peep-show. Make the peep-show of a box about two and a half feet long and one foot and a half high. Remove the top and both of the end-pieces (Fig. i). Cut from pasteboard a slide to exactly fit the box, and place it in the middle, thus cutting off the view from either end, as shown in Fig. I. Make a curtain in two pieces, and tack them_around the upper edge of tiK First of April. box, letting them meet at each end. Stout pieces of twine, stretched across the openings at the ends of the box, will serve to attach the drapery at these points. Almost any kind of material will answer for this purpose, provided it is not too thin and is of some bright hue, for the peep-show should be made to look as gay as possible. Place the box upon a high stand, and so arrange it that a strong light will shine down into it, making the interior, from end to end, per- fectly light. From a list, previously prepared, of the animals supposed to be on exhibition, read the first two, and invite two per- sons, a girl and a boy, for instance, to look into the peep-show. We will suppose that the first animals on the list are the raven and the dove. Inform your would-be audience that you have two of Noah's special pets to show them ; that from the girls' point of view will be seen a raven, and from the boys', a dove, F, 8 l Noah's Ark Peep-show. io Spring. When taking their places at the box, one at each end, the two spectators must part the curtain, and, putting their faces be- tween, hold the drapery together under their chins. This is to keep the remainder of the company from obtaining a glimpse into the wonderful show before their turns arrive. When all is ready, and the two wondering faces are hidden between the folds of the peep-show curtains, with the words, " Behold the pretty dove, and the mischievous raven," remove the slide, and expose to the astonished gaze of each spectator a companion's familiar face at the opposite end of the box. Of course, upon retiring from the show, its secret must be kept, otherwise the joke will be spoiled for those whose turns are yet to come. Before the next two take their station at the box, replace the slide and pretend to rearrange the show, to divert the sus- picion that the box is empty. The Supper can be made the means of perpetrating many practical jokes. The shams must be so intermingled with the real delicacies that one can never be sure what the consequences may be of par- taking too rashly of even the most tempting-looking morsel. Small blocks of wood covered with batter and browned in the oven are excellent imitations of cakes. Dainty confection- ery, in crimped papers, can be made of small radishes covered with icing of different colors. Button-moulds coated with choc- olate will readily be mistaken for candy. If a small pasteboard pill-box is first filled with flour, and the top then covered with tissue-paper pasted down around the edges, it will look, when iced, like a delicate little cake, and will cause much merriment when anyone bites into it ; for the moment the paper cover is broken the flour will fly in every First of April. ii direction. The fertile brain of girls, on mischief bent, will sug- gest many more frauds of this kind, and enough surprises may be prepared to make the supper as merry as anything else on the evening's programme. Before leaving this subject, once more let the caution be given to keep the jokes entirely harmless. It is only poor fun that can be obtained at the expense of injuring others, or by running the slightest risk of hurting them in any way. The spirit of mischief must be kept within bounds even on All-Fools-Day. Gathering Wild Flowers. CHAPTER II. WILD FLOWERS AND THEIR PRESERVATION. ONG before the first green leaves make their appearance, while the snows of winter still linger in the shaded nooks, and the branches are still bare, though blushing with the full, flowing sap that tinges their tips pink, yellow, and red when the air is filled with a sweet freshness and delicate fragrance it is charm- ing in our rambles to find scattered here and there upon the hill-side, down among the roots of the great trees, or under the hedges delicate little wild flowers waving on their fragile stalks with the faintest passing breeze. They are so exquisitely beautiful with their tender hues and graceful shapes, that a longing comes to possess them. And why not keep them fresh at home ? Plants live in the earth and require light, air, and moisture. All of these requirements can be and are fulfilled in thousands of homes where plants are kept, all over the world. But these are wild Jloiuers. True, and they may need something to be found only in the wild woods. What, then, is it ? Let us see. Earth, light, and air abound everywhere. Still, upon inspection we discover that the soil around our timid wild flowers is somewhat different from that to be found in our door-yards. But what is simpler than to take the earth up with the plant ? Spring. Be careful in Transplanting Wild Flowers to dig well all around and under the roots, so that the earth surrounding and clinging to the plant may be taken up at the same time (Fig. 2). After covering the root and soil adhering to it with a layer of clay, mud, or damp earth (Fig. 3) set the root in a large leaf, and tie it up with string or a wisp of grass (Fig 4), in order to make sure the soil does not fall off the plant. Thus se- cured the specimens will keep nicely until you reach home ; then plant them in a shady place and keep the ground moist. Beautiful little woodland gardens are made in this way, where within a few steps of the door a glimpse may be had of the fair forest flowers. Sweet-scented white violets, delicate little anemones, odd yellow violets, and quaint jack-m-the-pulpits, with many others, Wild Flowers and their Preservation. 15 not forgetting the graceful ferns, are now growing in the shaded corner of the writer's lawn, transplanted there from their home in the woods, where she found them one lovely spring morning, when out with a party of friends on a hunt for wild flowers. The day was perfect, filled with sunshine and the song of birds. All nature appeared glad and joyous, and the trees seemed veiled in the softest greens and pinks of budding leaves. It was a happy party that went wandering into the forest, straying here and there, and finding new treasures at nearly every step, stopping to gather a few of the violets that gave a purple tinge to the ground for yards around, then rambling on to the spot that was covered with the fragile anemone, each girl laden with the flowers she loved best. Some had taken them up roots and all, while others preferred the Cut Wild Flowers. For these it is best to use a tin box of convenient size and form shutting closely. The flowers must be fresh and not at all damp ; in such a box they can be kept for days bright and un- fading. They may also safely be sent to friends at a distance, though it is better, when Sending Flowers by Mail, if you wish to send a quantity, to pack them in a strong paste- board or wooden box. First lay down a piece of oiled paper of the proper size ; spread a thin layer of damp paper on this ; next a layer of flowers, then one of thin wet paper ; and so on until the box is full. Over the last layer place a dry paper, and cover this with oiled paper or tin-foil ; put the lid on the box and tie it down securely. 1 6 Spring. By this method a larger number of flowers can be sent in a given space than when simply inclosed in a tin box. The writer has often sent daisies from New York to Cincin- nati where they arrived as fresh as when first gathered. For the benefit of those who wish directions for sending flowers by mail, we give the following on authority of the American Agriculturist. "The law passed some years since by Congress, allowing packages of plants to be sent by mail, if not over four pounds in weight, was a capital arrangement for those who lived at a distance from railroad and express offices, but it is so hampered with the various constructions given by the Post Office Department, that it is difficult to know what is required by the officials. The law now is, we believe, as follows : A package, weighing four pounds or less, can be sent at the rate of two cents per four ounces, but the writing of the words "roots" or "plants" makes a letter of it, and is charged letter postage. Nothing should be written except the address, and the package must not be sealed, or contain any writing, and it must be so fastened that the postmaster can examine the contents if he wishes. The plants may, however, be numbered, and their names sent by letter." Now let us think of some way in which these lovely blossoms can be preserved. In Germany they excel in making decorations for rooms, dinner-tables, etc., of Preserved Flowers. Bright-colored flowers are best adapted to this method. White flowers are apt to turn yellow. Jack-in-the-pulpits, clover, roses, and daisies came out beautifully when the writer dried them, and why should not many other kinds do just as well ? Try and see. Procure three or four quarts of fine sand ; white scouring-sand is the best ; wash it perfectly clean. This can be tested by pour- ing the water off until it looks quite clear ; then dry the sand, Wild Flowers and their Preservation. 17 by placing it in a clean tin in the oven. When it is dry fully dry and cool pour enough in a box to enable the flowers to stand by themselves, their stems embedded in the sand, which should be a mass of fine particles of uniform size. If the flowers are cut so that they all measure nearly the same length from the tip of the blossom to the end of the stem, they can more readily be covered with sand. Preserved Flower*. The flowers must be fresh and entirely free from moisture. Place them stem downward in the sandy layer, and very gently 1 8 Spring. and slowly pour in the sand a little at a time, until each leaf and petal is firmly held in place (Fig. 5) ; then fill the box with sand nearly two inches above the level of the flowers. It is very essential that every particle of the flower rest in the sand, and that in filling up, the smallest petal has not been bent or crumpled. Take care not to shake the box lest the flowers inside be in- jured. Set it in a warm, dry place, and let it stand at least two weeks. This manner of preserving flowers retains the color, while the shape of the leaves and petals remains unaltered. The flow- ers will keep for years. There are other ways also of preserving flowers. Pressed Flowers and Leaves. Although these are perfectly flat, they seldom fade and are very pretty and useful. Have ready a large book or a quantity of old newspapers and several weights. Use the newspapers for leaves and ferns blotting-paper is best for the flowers. Both the flowers and leaves should be fresh and without moist- ure. Place them as nearly in their natural positions as possible in the book or papers, and press, allowing several thicknesses of paper between each layer. Remove the specimens to dry papers each day until perfectly dry. Some flowers must be immersed all but the flower head in boiling water for a few minutes, before pressing, to prevent them from turning black. Orchids are of this nature. If possible, it is well to obtain all parts of a plant, the roots as well as the seeds, for a more interesting collection can thus be made than from the flower and leaf alone. It is advisable to be provided with a blank book or, what is still better, pieces of stiff white paper of uniform size on which Wild Flowers and their Preservation, 19 to mount the flowers or leaves when dried ; also with a small bottle of mucilage and a brush for fastening them, and some narrow strips of court-plaster or gummed paper for the stems and thicker parts of the plants. The sooner they can be mounted the better. Place them carefully on the paper, writ- ing beneath the locality and date of finding. Flowers and leaves thus prepared make beautiful herbariums. Should you de- sire Leaves and Ferns for Decoration, first press them nicely ; then give them a coat of wax, by ironing them on both sides with a hot iron over which a piece of beeswax has first been rubbed. Cover the specimens com- pletely with wax, as this renders them quite pliable, and they are no longer brittle nor easily broken. Sprays of small leaves can be pressed entire. To heighten the effect, use dry colors, rubbing them in, and selecting those corresponding with the color of the leaves when first gathered. The colors must be put on before the coating* of wax. Ferns should be gathered when nearly full grown, and, after they are pressed, painted light green with oil-colors ; in that case the beeswax is not used. The oil in the paint, like the wax, makes the specimens more substantial, and they look quite fresh and fair. Sometimes the late autumn frosts will bleach the ferns per- fectly white ; then are they even more delicate than before Nat- ure changed their color. We have seen the Color of Flowers Changed, and it is a very pretty experiment, very simple, too. Immerse the flowers in ammonia, and you will be surprised to see white 2O Spring. lilies change to a delicate yellow, pink roses turn a lovely light green, while dark-red sweet-peas assume blue and rich purple tints ; and the change is so rapid it is almost like magic. Another interesting experiment is making Natural Wax Flowers by dipping the fresh buds and blossoms in paraffine just suffi- ciently hot to liquefy it ; first the stems of the flowers ; when these have cooled and hardened, then the flowers or sprays, holding them by the stalks and moving them gently. When they are completely covered the flowers are removed and lightly shaken, in order to throw off the superfluous wax. The flowers are then suspended until perfectly dry, when they are found hermetically sealed in a film of paraffine, while they still keep their beautiful coloring and natural forms, and for a while even their perfume. Now let us find what can be done To Freshen Cut Flowers. When the heat has made them wilt, clip the stems and set the flowers in cold water ; in a few hours they will regain their freshness and beauty. Some flowers, however, must be differently treated, such as heliotrope and mignonette ; these keep if placed upon damp moss or cotton and set in a cold place at night. Rosebuds will retain their freshness for hours when not placed in water, if the ends of the stems are snipped off, and immediately tipped with melted sealing-wax ; this excludes the air, and so keeps the flowers from drooping. If roses are wilted before they can be placed in water, cut off the ends of the stalks and immerse in very hot water for a minute or two, and they will regain their pristine freshness. Another way to keep flowers fresh is to put a pinch of ni- trate of soda into the glass each time you change the water, Wild Flowers and their Preservation. 21 Nitrate of potash or saltpetre in a powder has nearly the same effect, or a drop of hartshorn. If plants are chilled by frost, shower them with cold water, and leave in a cool room ; or set the pot in cold water and keep in a moderately cool place. Now one word about Crystallized Flowers, that sparkle and look so beautiful. They must first be dried \\ sand, then crystallized in the same way as dried grasses the rougher the surface the better will it crystallize. Dissolve as much alum in boiling water as it will hold ; when this is deter- mined, pour it off and boil the solution down to one-half. Suspend the flowers by a net-work of string tied across the top of a pail into which they must hang ; then pour into the pail the boiling alum water, which must completely cover the flowers, and leave it undisturbed twelve hours, or all night. The flowers should not touch each other or the sides of the bucket. Be careful in removing them the next morning, as the crystals are easily broken off. Flowers or sprays of grass may be beautifully frosted by dipping them in a solution of gum-arabic and sprinkling them with powdered isinglass. Flowers are not only very beautiful, but many of them pos- sess a fragrance so sweet that we would fain learn how to keep the Perfume of Flowers. Rose-leaves are the most simply prepared. Take a covered jar, fill it with sweet-scented rose-leaves, and scatter through them some salt. Keep the jar closed tight, and when the petals have dried the " scent of the roses will cling to them still," so that every time the jar is opened a delicious fragrance will fill the air. Or you can cover the rose-leaves with melted lard, and leave them fo.v a day or two in some place at a temperature 22 Spring. of about 140 F. ; then cool it and knead the lard in alco- hol. Pour off the alcohol in fancy glass bot- tles and use as handkerchief per- fume. For varieties we find this method : " The delicate odor of pinks and other flowers may be obtained as follows : Get a glass funnel, with the narrow end drawn to a point ; in this place lumps of ice with salt, by which a very low temperature is pro- duced. The funnel should be supported on an ordinary retort-stand and placed near the flowering plants, when water and the ethereal odor of the blossom will be deposited on the exterior of the glass funnel, and will trickle down to the point, from which it drops at inter- vals into a glass vessel below. The scent thus obtained is very perfect, but is apt to become sour in a few days unless some pure alcohol is added. By this process many odors maybe pro- cured for comparison and study. To obtain the odor in perfection the blossom must be in its prime." Dry some sweet clover, and the fra- grance will be sweet and pleasant. Fill a fancy bag of some thin sheer material with the clover, and you will find that you have imprisoned the fresh breath of summer. Old-time lavender can be prepared in the same way. Wild Flowers and their Preservation. 23 Our thoughts so far have been for the flowers in their sea^ son. But did it ever occur to you that it is possible to have Spring Flowers in Winter? If you search in the woods during December you may find, tucked away in sheltered spots, little woodland plants which, when taken up and carefully transplanted in a flower-pot and set in a sunny window, will soon begin to grow, sending up tender stems, and in about three weeks will blossom. The lit- tle fairy-like flowers seem even more beautiful coming in the cold wintry weather. Fruit-tree twigs and sprays from flowering shrubs will blos- som when the ground is white with snow, if cut from trees about the first of February, placed in well-heated water in a warm room, and the water changed every day for some that is almost but not quite hot. The twigs being kept warm will blossom in a few weeks. It is quite a pretty idea to take up and plant in a little flower-pot The Four-leaved Clover. Very frequently you may find a tuft bearing only the mystic number, and should it happen to have a five- or six-leaved clover in with the others, they will add to the luck. If you possess one of these charmed plants, it is said "good luck " will always be near at hand. Besides the foregoing directions for the preservation of flowers, plants, etc., there are numerous other methods, which, although not experimentally verified by the writer, are ng doubt as worthy of a place here as any of the former. The following recipes have been culled from various ol(f papers, books, etc. 24 Spring. Some Old-fashioned Methods of Preserving Flowers. The first of these ways is more properly intended for bo* tanical collections, and is often resorted to by collectors of rare blossoms. It consists in placing Flowers in Alcohol, and possesses the great advantage of preserving the flowers for years, and keeping their most delicate fibres uninjured. They make invaluable specimens to sketch from, and though their beauty may be somewhat impaired by loss of color, their out- lines remain perfect. Place the flowers in a wide-mouthed bottle, fill it to the top with alcohol, cork it tightly, and cover the cork with plaster-of- Paris or melted beeswax, thus hermetically sealing it. Do not use sealing-wax, as experience has taught us that the fumes of the alcohol soften the wax, and not only spoil the neat appear- ance of the bottle, but allow the spirits to evaporate. Another way is to Bottle Flowers. Carefully seal the ends of the stems with sealing-wax, place them in an empty bottle both flowers and bottle must be per- fectly dry cork the bottle, and hermetically seal it with either sealing-wax or beeswax. The next method has greater possibilities of beauty, and consequently the reader will be more interested in learning How to Preserve a Vaseful of Flowers for a Year. Take home your basket of wild flowers, " nodding violets," cowslips, bright-eyed anemones, and all the lovely offerings of the woods, and before arranging them in the vase, carefully seal the stem of each flower. Place a glass shade over the vase ; be careful that flowers, vase, and shade are perfectly Wild Flowers and their Preservation. 25 dry ; then fill up the groove in the wood, in which the shade stands, with melted wax. By covering the wax with chenille it can be perfectly hidden. Flowers kept in this way will last for a twelvemonth. The flowers preserved in an empty bottle may be taken out, the wax cut from the stems, and, if arranged in a bouquet, will last as long as perfectly fresh flowers. Those in the alcohol lose their color after being immersed for a time, and will not last when removed from the alcohol. In following any of these directions be careful not to tie the flowers. No string must be used. The flower stems must be loose and separate from each other. A florist of much experience in preserving bouquets for an indefinite period gives this recipe for Keeping Bouquets Fresh a Long Time. When you receive a bouquet sprinkle it lightly with fresh water, then put it into a vessel containing some soapsuds ; this will take the place of the roots and keep the flowers bright as new. Take the bouquet out of the suds every morning, and lay it sideways, the stems entering first, in clean water ; keep it there a minute or two, then take it out, and sprinkle the flowers lightly by the hand with water; replace it in the soapsuds, and it will bloom as fresh as when first gathered. The soapsuds need changing every three or four days. By observing these rules a bouquet can be kept bright and beauti- ful for at least a month, and will last longer in a very passable state. From another source we learn how To Keep Flowers or Fruit a whole Year perfectly Fresh. Mix one pound of nitre with two pounds of S'il ammoniac and three pounds of clean common sand ; then in dry weather 26 Spring. take fruit of any sort which is not fully ripe, allowing the stalks to remain, and put them one by one into an open glass until it is quite full ; cover the glass with oiled cloth, closely tied down. Put the glass three or four inches down in the earth in a dry cellar, and surround it on all sides to the depth of three or four inches with the above mixture. The fruit will thus be pre- served quite fresh all the year round. In giving the following recipe for the manufacture of rose- water, it may be as well to state that the original verse is given, not for its merit as such, but simply because it is the form in which the recipe reached the writer. Rose-water. " When the bushes of roses are full, As most of them are about June, 'Tis high time to gather, or pull The leaves of the flowers. As soon As you've picked all you need for the time, To each quart of water unite A peck of the leaves, which, if prime And they will be, if pulled off aright May be placed in a still near at hand, On a very slow fire. When done, Bottle off, and permit it to stand For three days ere you cork down each one." CHAPTER III. THE WALKING CLUB. SOUND of girlish voices is suddenly heard in the quiet village streets, as our Walking Club, issuing from the house of one of its members, starts off on the first tramp of the sea- son. The gay chatter and bubbling laughter blend with the twittering and chirping of the birds fluttering among the budding trees, and all these merry sounds seem in perfect harmony with the youthful gladness of the bright morn- ing. There is a subtle power and exhilaration in the spring sun- shine that stimulates the blood, and sends it tingling through our veins, as with light-springing steps we quickly leave the village behind us and penetrate into the outlying country, stopping now and then to secure a branch of the downy pussy-willow or brilliant red blossoms of the maple, and again to admire a distant view where the trees seem enveloped in a hazy mist of delicate color ; on we go, exploring sequestered spots or enter- ing deep into the woods in search of early wild flowers. Although possibly timid as individuals, as a club we are Vave enough ; for a party of fourteen or sixteen girls, including The Walking Chtb. 29 our merry little chaperon, may go, with impunity, where it would not be so pleasant for one to venture alone. Once a week all through that delightful spring the club might have been seen, now upon a road leading in this direction, now in that. And, often as we stepped aside to allow a carriage to pass, its occupants would lean forward smiling, and waving their hands in greeting ; for the moment, perhaps, feeling in sympathy with the vigorous young life that preferred this mode of loco- motion to being carried about on the downiest cushions of the easiest of carriages. A ride which accorded with the unconven- tional mood of our club was not despised however, for, urged on by the girls, our little matron would make bold to accost some countryman driving a vehicle sufficiently large, and persuade him, in the terms of the country, to ''give us a lift." Jolting about in a springless wagon or hay-cart was not in the least enervating, and we experienced no indolent wish to continue our journey on wheels when forced by diverging roads to leave our equipage. It was not until the ever-increasing heat of the sun, and our own languid disinclination to much exertion, warned us that the mildness of spring had passed, that we concluded to dis- band for the summer. In the fall we again fell into rank, and came home from our walks laden with the gorgeous trophies of autumn, as we had once carried in triumph the tasselled branches and dainty flowers of spring. We continued our tramps into the early winter, when the frosty crispness of the air made it very bracing, and the brisk exercise of walking brought the healthy color to cheek and lip of the young pedestrians. Such a club as this, which at the same time promotes health, good spirits, and sociability, is one that most girls will enjoy and derive benefit from. A closer acquaintance with Nature, which these walks afford, is not the least of their benefits, and to her true lover, Nature has 30 Spring. many delightful surprises and secrets to reveal ; and as ha? been said, even for for those who cannot read her deeper meanings she has a language which calls attention to her more outward forms of beauty, and which one may study until gradu- ally, with slowly opening eyes, is seen more and more of the exquisite perfection of her work, that long ago might have been seen had one but chosen to look. As a society, the Walking Club is one of the most informal. No officers are needed, although a secretary may sometimes be found useful when any word is to be sent to absent members. The membership of the club should be large enough to insure the attendance of at least twelve or fourteen on each walk ; for in this case, as I have said, safety lies in numbers. At a place of meeting previously appointed, the members should assemble, and, before starting on their walk, the route to be taken should be decided by vote ; a decision on this point will be more quickly arrived at if a chairman be ap- pointed to keep order. The first walk should not be too long. Three miles is a good walk to start with ; a mile and a half out and the same home again. Gradually the distance can be lengthened, and the club be able to take a ten-mile walk without feeling fatigue, The Walking Club. To MAKE THE EXERCISE OF WALK- ING HEALTHFUL, AND THEREFORE THE MORE ENJOYABLE, THESE RULES SHOULD BE OBSERVED. 1st. Carry the body erect on the hips, the slioulders thrown back, the chest raised, and the head square on the shoulders. 2d. Breathe through the nose while walking rapidly, other- wise the mouth will become dry and tJie breath short. ^d. Wear loosely fitting clotJies that will permit a free motion of the limbs, and shoes with broad, moderately thick soles and low, broad heels. In all cases a girl's skirts should be supported from the shoulders, and in walking any distance it is absolutely necessary for com- fort that there should be no weight upon the hips. CHAPTER IV. EASTER. VERYWHERE the children are playing with e gg s 5 e gg s colored in every hue mottled, striped, and gilded ; real eggs and imitation ones ; sugar, glass, and wooden eggs ; for this is Easter-tide, and not only in America, but in many far-away countries, where the habits and customs are very different from ours, does Easter bring to the children the highly prized, gayly- colored eggs. How nice it would be if we could take a peep into these foreign countries, and discover what else Easter brings the little ones besides the pretty eggs, and also how the people of such widely differing nations keep this happy festival common to all. If we could look into England now, we should find that the ceremonies there begin on Palm Sunday (the last Sunday be- fore Easter), and on that day many people go a-palming, only they do not, of course, find palm, but gather instead branches of willow, which they stick into their hats and button-holes. On Good-Friday we might see, on almost every breakfast-table, those hot spicy cakes with a cross stamped on the face, known to many of us as well as to our English cousins, as " hot cross buns." We should feel very much at home looking into the churches on Easter Sunday, for we should find them beautifully 3 34 . Spring. decorated with flowers, and hear the Easter anthems chanted as we might in our own country. I do not think we can see in America, though, the ceremony which, on Easter Monday, is performed by the charity school-children in England. Were we among the spectators who, with shouts and merry laughter, crowd around to watch this performance, we should see the children take their places, with their backs against the outside of the church, and then join hands until a circle is formed around the building, thus completing what is called " clipping the church. " It would be great fun to see the Easter celebration in Rus- sia, which includes many peculiar customs, and where the chil- dren receive presents as we do at Christmas, besides more eggs than any of us ever thought of possessing ; some of the eggs being beautifully made of glass or porcelain, and filled with sugar-plums or small presents. How amusing it would be to watch the people, following a custom always observed on Easter Monday in this queer land, as they go about kissing relations, friends, and acquaintances, wherever they happen to meet them. If we were really in this great, cold, furry country, we might go with the children to make their Easter visits, and, on entering a house, hear the greeting, "Jesus Christ is risen," and the answer, " Yes, he is risen ; " then after kiss- ing the inmates and exchanging eggs with them, go to visit elsewhere. All this would seem very strange to American eyes ; and it would be a strange sight too, if we could look into the cities of Spain and see the people in the streets 'shooting at stuffed figures of Judas Iscariot. A passing glance at Ireland on Easter morning would show us the people making haste to be out at sunrise to see the sun dance in a pool or pail of clear water. Easter. 35 It would be worth while to give more than a passing glance into Germany at this season, for in this country, where the chil- dren's happiness is so much thought of and so well provided for, Easter Monday is looked upon as a grand holiday, and all the young people appear in their gala costumes ready for any fun or frolic that may be going on. It is a pretty sight when the little peasant-girls, in their quaint gowns and odd little caps, dance on the green with the boys, whose cos- tumes are equally as picturesque ; and it is also entertaining to watch them as they play various games with their many-colored eggs. In Germany, too, we should find that the children believe as sincerely in the Easter hare as they do in Santa Claus in our country ; and the saying, that " the hares lay the Easter eggs," is never doubted by the little ones. After visiting in imagination all these foreign countries to see their Easter celebrations, it may prove interesting to turn our eyes toward home, for, since our country is so large as large almost as all Europe put together perhaps some of our little citizens who have never been in Washington do not know how, in the capital of the United States, the children hold high carnival on Easter Monday, nor how the grounds of the White House and also of the Capitol are given up to them on this day that they may frolic on the lawns and roll their eggs down the hills. It would be as novel a sight to some of us as any found abroad, to see several thousand children rolling and tossing their eggs, while shells of every hue cover the grass in all directions. The following newspaper item, cut from the Evening Star, Washington, D. C., April 27, 1886, shows how these rights of the little Americans are recognized and respected, and how unmolested they enjoy the privileges of Easter Mon- day. 36 Spring. "THE EASTER EGG-ROLLING. "CHILDREN SHAKE HANDS WITH THE PRESIDENT. " The crowd in the White House grounds greatly increased yesterday afternoon, so that the grounds were literally packed with children. The crowd was the largest and best appearing that has collected there in many years. The President and Colonel Lament watched the children for some time from the library window. At the President's reception at half-past one o'clock hundreds of chil- dren gave up their sport temporarily and thronged the East Room to shake hands with the President." Easter Egg Games. In the game they play at Washington, on the hills sloping from the White House, the child whose egg reaches the foot of the hill in an unbroken condition takes the one worsted in the journey down. Another game for two is played by knocking the eggs together ; each child holds an egg firmly in his hand so that only the small end is visible, and then the two eggs are struck against each other until one is cracked, when the vic- torious player adds it to his stock, or devours it on the spot. I would not like to state the number of eggs eaten on these occasions, but there is a boy (not a girl) who once consumed fourteen and lived to tell the tale. Sometimes the egg which breaks another is called "the cock of one," and when it has broken two it is " cock of two," and so on. When an egg which is cock of one or more is broken, the number of trophies won by the victim is added to the score of the conquering egg and it becomes " cock of three " or more. Here is a game which comes from Germany, and al- though in that country it is played exclusively by boys, there is no reason why the girls should not participate in it as well. Two Easter. 37 baskets are necessary for this game, one large and shallow filled with soft shavings, the other shallow also, but smaller, and filled with eggs. The plan of the game is that one player is to run a given distance, while another safely throws the eggs from one basket to the other, she who completes her task first being the winner. When the baskets are prepared, and the distance the eggs are to be thrown decided upon, the two contestants draw lots to determine who shall run and who shall throw. This settled, the player who throws takes the basket of eggs, and one after another quickly tosses them the length of the course and into the basket of shavings, which is placed on the ground at the end of the course opposite the thrower. In Germany this basket is held by an assistant, but anyone occupying that po- sition might receive some severe blows from the hard eggs thrown by unpractised hands, and it answers the purpose just as well to place the basket on the ground. Meantime the other player runs the distance (decided beforehand) to an ap- pointed goal, marks it as a proof of having touched it, and should she succeed in returning before all the eggs are thrown, the vic- tory and prize are her reward ; otherwise they belong to the thrower. The game finished, a prize is presented to the successful con- testant. Should any of the eggs pitched by the thrower fail to light in the basket, they must be gathered up and thrown again before the runner returns, as the eggs must all be in the basket before the thrower wins the game. " Bunching eggs " comes from Ireland, and is played in very much the same manner as the game played with a slate and pencil, and known to all children as " tit, tat, toe, three in a row." A pan or large dish filled with sand or sawdust is set upon a table, around which the children stand, each supplied with eggs ; the eggs of each player must be all of one color, and unlike those of any other player. The object of the game is for each 38 Spring. player to so place her eggs, standing them upright in the sand, or sawdust, as to bring five in a row touching each other. In turn each player puts down an egg, sometimes filling out a row for herself, at others cutting off the line of an oppo- nent ; and the one who first succeeds in obtaining the desired row sings out " The raven, chough, and crow, Say five in a row." Another pretty game from Ireland called " Touch " is played in the following manner : Six eggs of the different colors green, red, black, blue, white, and gold are placed in a row in the sand used for the other game. One of the players is blindfolded and given alight wand or stick, with which she must touch one of the eggs, while at the same time she recites these lines : Peggy, Patrick, Mike, and Meg, See me touch my Easter egg ; Green, and red, and black, and blue, Count for six, five, four, and two. If I touch an egg of white, A forfeit then will be your right ; If I touch an egg of gold, It is mine to have and hold. As is told in the rhyme, the eggs each have a different value. Green counts six ; red, five ; black, four ; and blue, two ; and the gold egg is worth more than all put together, for when a player touches that, she wins the game and a forfeit of. an egg from each of the other players. The white egg is worth less than nothing, since it not only has no value but whoever touches it with the wand must pay a forfeit. Each player is in turn blindfolded and makes her trial, keep- ing account of the value of the eggs she has touched. When the Raster. 39 sum of twenty has been reached by anyone the game is ended, without the aid of the gold egg. The position of the eggs are changed after each trial, that the person about to touch them may not know where it is best to place her wand. Easter Egg Dolls. In some of the large confectionery stores in New York City may be found at Easter-tide quaint little Easter offerings, look- ing at first sight exactly like dolls' heads surmounted by pretty little head-dresses. As dolls are not peculiarly appropriate gifts for Easter, one naturally examines them closer, to ascertain if there is anything about them significant of the day, and in so doing quickly discovers that the heads are not made of wax or china, as was at first supposed, but are simply egg-shells from which the eggs have been blown, leaving the shell perfect. Little faces are painted upon these shells, and the cunning caps or bonnets are made of tissue-paper. Now it is our purpose to teach the children who do not live in New York and have never seen these pretty toys, and also those who, having seen, cannot afford to purchase them, just how to make some of these little men and women, and how to fashion a variety of head-dresses not to be found in the stores. To begin with, select several nice large eggs, those of a pinkish yellow are preferable, being something of a flesh-tint. These eggs should be blown, or the shells emptied of their contents ; to blow them make a small hole in each end of the shell, and, taking it gently between the thumb and forefinger, put one hole to the lips ; then blow, not too hard, but steadily, until the egg has all run out of the other end. The face must be painted next, and to those who know nothing of drawing this will seem no easy task, until by care- fully observing the following direction they will find that it is Spring. Patterns for Head-dresses, Easter. in the power of anyone to produce as pretty a face as could be wished for. Among picture-cards, or in almost any juvenile book, may be found many pretty faces of a suitable size which can be transferred to the egg in this way. Lay a piece of tracing-paper over the head selected, and with a soft lead- pencil trace carefully all the lines in- dicating the features ; then place the paper on the shell so that the pencil- marks are next to it, and with a hard pencil, or ivory knitting-needle, go over the lines again, thus transfer- ring the soft pencil-marks to the shell. Touch up and strengthen the features with a fine paint-brush and india-ink. Anyone understanding painting may color the face in natural tints, but it looks very nicely done merely in outline. The simplest arrangement for holding the little head erect is a small pasteboard box turned upside down, and having a hole cut in the bottom just large enough to admit the small end of the shell ; this will support the head nicely, and also form the shoulders. Make the hair of raw cotton blackened with ink, and fasten it on the head with mucilage. When all of the foregoing di- rections have been carried out it is time to attend to the head-dresses, and we will begin with the quaint and old-fashioned poke-bonnet. Cut this bonnet from ordi- The old-fashioned GITL nary brown wrapping-paper after the pattern shown in dia- gram ; sew together the ends of the " side of crown," then sew 42 Spring. the curved side (which is cut in slits as shown in pattern, and folded back as indicated by dotted line) to the smallest part of brim; fold in the strips marked on the straight "side of crown" and fasten on the " top of crown" with mucilage. The trimming for the bonnet consists of a fold and bow of colored tissue paper. Make the man's hat of shiny black paper by the pattern in diagram, and fasten together in the same manner as the bonnet, rolling the sides of the brim when finished. Black and white tissue-paper folded to fit the head, as shown by the dotted lines in the pattern, forms the head-dress of the nun. By copying the head-dresses of differ- ent nations, an odd and curious assembly of these Easter-egg dolls can be formed ; but that must be worked out at some The Dude. future time, for we have yet to tell how to construct some Easter toys that cannot be found in any store. The Humpty Durnpty who " sat on a wall," and the " Humpty Dumpty " who " had a great fall," must have been like the one I am about to de- scribe, made of an egg ; for it is pretty certain that if he should fall, " all the king's horses and all the king's men couldn't put" this " Humpty Dumpty together again" any more than they could the other. The diagram shows the frame of this little fellow and how it is joined together. A large egg should be chosen ; and when the contents have been blown from the shell, four holes must be pricked in it for the arms and legs to pass through, as shown in the diagram. These limbs are made of rather fine bonnet- Easter. 43 J Hutrtpty Dumpy's Humpty Dn-mpN^ Jacket- ! y Diagram of Humpty Dumpty. 44 Spring. wire, the piece used for the arms being about eight inches long. The hand is made by bending up one end of the wire as in dia- gram, and with softened beeswax covering the loop thus formed. When one hand has been finished off in this way, the other end of the wire, still straight, should be passed through one of the holes near the small end of the shell and out through the one opposite, then bent up in- to a hand and arm in the same manner as described. The wire for the legs and feet must be ten inches long. The diagram shows how it is bent to form the feet. On this frame, wax can easily be modelled to look like a foot ; a coating of red paint will add to the appearance, as red boots look well with the costume to be worn. The wire for Humpty Dumpty. ^ ^ ^^ be bent ^ a curve in the middle (see diagram) before it is passed through the shell. Again, as with the hands, one foot must be finished and the legs fastened on before the other foot can be made. The figure of Humpty Dumpty being thus prepared, his face must be painted ; water-colors are the best for this purpose. The jollier the expression of his face, the funnier the little man will look. Patterns for trousers, jacket, and hat are shown in the dia- grams. The trousers should be cut from white cotton cloth two and a half inches long and six inches wide. A slit an inch and a half long, cut in the middle, separates the legs of the trousers, which must, of course, be sewed up. Dotted lines at top and Easter. 45 bottom show where a gathering thread should be run, the bot- tom gathers forming ruffles around the ankles. White should also be used for the jacket, cutting it three and a half inches long anJ five inches wide. The shape of the jacket may be seen in the diagram, dotted lines showing where the sleeves are to be gathered around the wrist. Collar and pockets of red the patterns of which are given finish the little garment. A white hat four inches around the brim and two inches high is decorated with a band of red, which should be sewed on the edge and turned up. When dressing Humpty Dumpty, fasten his garments on to his body here and there with glue, which will hold them se- curely in place. The hat also should be glued to his head, as it is difficult otherwise to keep it on. Miss Roily-poly. Little Miss Roily-poly, who decid- edly refuses to lie down, always re- gaining an upright posture, no matter in what position she is placed, is made in the following manner : After the contents have been blown from the shell, the hole of the small end is en- larged gradually until it is about a half-inch in diameter ; the shell is then placed in an upright position (a box with a hole cut in it just large enough to hold the egg MissHony-pdy. firmly makes a good stand) and melted sealing-wax is poured in ; on top of this melted lead is poured, all the while care being taken to keep 46 Spring. the shell perfectly steady, that the weight may fall exactly in the centre and make a perfect balance. A small quantity of lead is sufficient for the purpose, as the shell is so very light. Miss Roily-poly requires no limbs ; when her babyish face is painted she is ready for her costume. The dress is simply made of a strip of colored cloth, and is two inches long and seven inches wide. The white apron is fastened to the dress as O.! Diagram of Miss Roily-poly. shown in the diagram. Sleeves are made of pieces of the dress material about one inch long and one and a half inch wide. They are rolled up and fastened with needle and thread, then sewed on to the dress in the position shown in the diagram. Pockets are made for the apron, and the ends of the sleeves tucked in them, which makes it appear as though the hands were hidden in the pockets. The cap, made of the same ma- terial, or of a color harmonizing with the dress, is four inches Easter. 47 round the brim and one inch high ; it is sewed together at the two ends, and gathered into a pompon on top, as is shown by the dotted lines in the diagram. A little glue should also be used to fasten this dolly's dress and cap on. Mandolin. A pretty little toy mandolin is made of the lengthwise half of an egg-shell. To sep- arate the shell in this way it is necessary to pierce holes with a needle along the line where the di- vision is to be made, which will cause it to break evenly ; or the egg may be boiled hard and then cut in half with a very sharp knife. Fig. 6 is cut from stiff paper, and the strings drawn with pen and ink ; then the shell is fast- ened to it on the opposite side by pasting a narrow strip of white tissue paper over the edges of the shell and frame, joining them together. The top of the handle is bent down a little and a narrow rib- bon tied to it. To make the mandolin still more complete, paint the handle mahogany color, with a fine needle stitch on strings of yellow silk, and paint the egg-shell into pumpkin- like divisions of yellow and mahogany. The Mandolin. 4 8 Spring. The Owl. To turn a hen's egg into an owl has not before, I imagine, been thought possible ; yet it is easy enough, and requires but a very Wing. Diagram of Owl. short time to accomplish the transformation, when one knows just how to go to work. No incubator is needed to hatch this bird, as only the shell is used, the contents having been disposed of in the manner before described. We commence the formation of the little owl by making two holes near the large end of the shell in the position shown in diagram. By looking at the next diagram the manner of making the feet and legs may be seen. A short piece of wire is bent in the shape given, and is wrapped on to a longer wire with strong thread, thus form- ing three toes, which are quite enough for a bird that will never walk. One foot made, the wire is passecj through the shell, having first been bent into a Owl Complete. Easter. 49 curve, as in the description of Humpty Dumpty. When the last foot has been fastened on, the wire should be pushed back into the shell, allowing but little of the legs to show. The wings are cut by the pattern given, and are painted to resemble feathers as much as possible. Brown is the best color to use. By the diagram may be seen how the head and body are painted. Maple-wax Easter Eggs. Empty the egg-shell of its contents and open a place at the small end the size of a silver dime. Stand it in an upright po- sition with the largest opening on top, and leave it while you prepare the maple-wax, or candy. Mix enough water with some maple sugar to dissolve it, and set on the fire to cook ; when it will harden in cold water it is done. Carefully fill the egg-shell with the hot maple-wax, and keeping it in an upright position, set it on the ice to cool. When the wax is perfectly cold and hard, paste an artificial daisy over the opening in the shell. Maple-wax is the nicest kind of candy, and done up in this way will remain firm and hard for a long while ; and there- fore these maple-wax eggs make excellent Easter gifts to send away to one's friend at a distance. The best way to pack them is to wrap them in cotton and then put them in a tin baking- powder box, filling up the interstices with cotton to keep them from knocking about. The box, of course, must be wrapped in paper and tied se- curely with a string. Packed like this, they may travel safely all over the United States. The writer sent several the distance of over seven hundred miles, and they arrived at their destina- tion in as perfect condition as when they left her hands. Bonbon Box. Select a box two or three inches high a round one is best which has a lid that covers the entire box. Cut sgme straw 4 50 Spring. or hay in pieces long enough to reach from the top to the edge, and glue it on the sides of the lid, covering them completely. Prepare as many halves of egg-shells as will cover the top, al- lowing a space one inch wide around the edge. Glue the shells down, and fill up the spaces between with straw. Near the edge, on the opposite sides, glue a loop of narrow white rib- bon ; these loops are to lift it with. Then glue straw on all the uncovered parts of the lid, making it a little thicker and higher at the edges. When the box is finished it resembles a nest of eggs, and makes an appropriate and acceptable Easter gift. Easter Cards. It is a very pretty custom, that of sending Easter cards, altogether too pretty to be allowed to lapse into disuse, as many customs which are merely the ex- pression of sentiment are apt to do in this busy, practical country of ours. One experiences a great deal of pleasure in selecting from the stock of beautiful cards found in the stores just before Easter those that seem suitable for one's friends, but more pleasure will be derived from home-made Easter cards, both to the sender and recipient ; for it is true that into everything we make we put a part of ourselves, and into many a home-made article is woven loving thoughts which make the gift priceless, although the ma- terials of which it is composed may have cost little or nothing. Several years ago the writer was visiting a friend in the country twenty miles from the nearest town where Easter cards Easter. could be purchased, but when Easter approached we sent off our cards, just the same, and I am sure our friends were as pleased with them, and more pleased, than if they had been of the most expensive kind. This is how we made them : It was an early spring, and the woods were filled with wild- flowers, anemones and violets mostly ; these we gathered, and arranging them in small bunches, stuck the stems through little slits cut in cards or pieces of heavy paper, as they are some- Pattern for the Chicken. times fastened in books when pressed. Underneath the bouquet we wrote the name of the person for whom it was intended, with some friendly message appropriate to the season, and signed our own names ; then we carefully folded each in writ- ing paper, taking pains not to crumple the flowers, and enclos- ing them in envelopes, sent them to their destination through the mail. Any kind of flowers can be used for these Easter cards, and instead of putting the stems through slits in the Spring. card, they may be tied to them with narrow ribbon. A card to be sent only a short distance should be put in a box just deep enough to leave room for the flowers, and fastened in some way to keep it from moving about ; in this way it will reach its destination sweet and fresh. To those who can paint their Easter cards we have no sugges- tions to offer, for they have an unlimited supply of designs at their command, and with their power of decoration, may turn almost anything into an Easter card, from a piece of satin ribbon, upon which they sketchily paint a spray of flowers, to an elaborate picture. A few suggestions are here given which our younger readers may like to carry out, as the cards we describe are easily made, and adapted to amuse the children. " Stepping through the White House " the first card is called, and it represents a little chicken breaking through its shell. The pattern of the chicken is given in the diagrams. Fig. 7, the head and neck, is cut from yellow flannel ; Figs. 8, 9, and 10, the main part and fragments of shell, are of white paper, and Fig. 1 1, the feet, of black paper. These are pasted to a tinted card, as shown in illustration. The eye and bill are made black with ink or paint. Little Quakeress. Half an egg-shell, with the face and hair painted on it, forms the The Little Quakeress. head. The cap is made of white tissue paper cut in four strips ; one, for the crown, is six and a half inches long, and a little over one and a half wide ; another, for the brim, is four and a half inches long and one inch wide ; Raster. 53 while the strings are each three and a half inches long, and one and a half wide. The crown is plaited in the centre, the brim folded lengthwise through the middle, and sewed to the crown. The strings are fastened on either side of the cap, and crossed in front ; then the cap is pasted on the head, the surplus paper folded back, and the whole glued on a card. The ends of the strings are also fastened to the card, forming a Quaker kerchief. CHAPTER V. HOW TO MAKE A LAWN-TENNIS NET. ET us see ; it was that old medical gen- tleman, Galen the Greek, who first wrote upon tennis, speaking of the sport as healthy exercise, was it not ? Well, girls, it really does not matter much to us whether he was the first to write it up and the Greeks the first to play it, or whether the game originated in France in the fifteenth century, as some claim. What we want to know is, can we all learn to play tennis ? Does it cost much ? What kind of gowns and shoes must we wear ? And is it an enjoyable game ? There is no doubt, we think, of its being a right royal pastime, as it has been called both the " king of games " and the "game of kings;" the latter because it was enjoyed by princes and nobles so much enjoyed, that in both England and France edicts were published forbidding the common people to play it. Girls, do you wonder if they always had the choice of courts, and so never took part in the fun of spinning the racket in the air while the adversary called out " rough " or " smooth ; " or whether they played as we do, taking their defeats pleasantly and wearing their honors gracefully, while always doing their very best ? Spring. They must have played well, for it is said that Louis XL, Henry II., and Charles IX., were experts, and that Henry VIII. of England was extremely fond of the sport. We can easily learn to play this most popular and exhilarat- ing of games. But we must be suitably clothed in order to thoroughly enjoy it and receive all the benefit the recreation brings to both mind and body. Flannel seems to be the best material for a tennis suit it is so soft and yielding, and so well adapted for a defence against either cold or heat. Then, make your tennis gown of flan- nel ; the skirt in plaits, without dra- pery ; the postilion basque of Jersey cloth, soft and elas- tic, matching the skirt in color. Sew the skirt of your gown on a sleeveless waist, made of lining or muslin. The Jersey will fit nicely over this, and you can play better and feel far more comfortable than when the weight is allowed to drag on the hips. For it is nonsense to attempt to take part in any athletic game unless you can have perfect freedom of action ; in short, you should be so dressed as to be utterly unconscious of your clothing. Either crochet a Tarn O' Shanter hat or make one of the dress material, as these are not so apt to fall off while running as a straw hat. " Last, but not least," come the shoes. Of course, An Old Game. How to Make a Lawn- Tennis Net. 57 rubber- soled shoes are the best. But if these are not to be had, remove the heels from an old pair of ordinary shoes, and they will do very well ; heels roughen and cut the courts. The actual cost of a lawn-tennis set need only be the price of the rackets and balls, and rope and co?d necessary when you learn How to Make a Lawn-Tennis Net, which is not difficult. First procure two pieces of cotton rope, three-sixteenths of an inch in size, each thirty-four feet long, costing about twenty- five cents apiece. Then one and a half pound of hammock Stake. Peg. twine or macrim^ cord, No. 24, which will not cost more than fifty cents. Next, two lengths of cotton rope for guy-ropes, each five feet, price, both included, ten cents ; making the total ___^ amount $1.10 for a strong, firm, ten- r*\ nis net which will prove serviceable and last many a sea- 'V* son. The other materials necessary are all home-made. ,-r-, . . Runner and Guy-rope. These consist p lg/fc | of two stakes, each five feet long (Fig. ' 12). Any kind of a strong pole, when sharpened at one end and a notch cut at the other, will answer the purpose. Four pegs, each one foot long (Fig. 13). These may be easily made of old broomsticks. Four runners (Fig. 14), each five inches long, one and a quarter wide, and about half an inch thick, with holes bored near each Spring. end large enough to allow the guy-rope (Fig. 15) to pass through. A fid or mesh-stick of any kind of wood (Fig. 16), about a foot or ten inches long, with circumference measuring three inches. A hammock-needle (Fig. 17), nine or ten inches long and one wide, which may be bought for ten cents, or whittled out of a piece of ash or hickory by some kind A FilT brother. Tassels are not necessary, though it is much better to have them, as they make the top line of the net more distinct and add to its appearance. Make about forty bright- colored tassels of worsted, or bits of flannel Hammock- needle. cut in very narrow strips, three inches long, allowing ten or twelve strips to each tassel. Commence your tennis net by first threading the needle ; take it in the left hand, and use the thumb to hold the end of the cord in place while looping it over the tongue (see Fig. 18); pass the cord down under the needle to the opposite side, and catch it over the tongue. Re- peat this until the needle is full. Next, take a piece of rope thirty-four feet long, and make a How to Make a Lawn- Tennis Net. 59 long loop in one end, tying the knot so that it can readily be untied again. Throw the loop over some convenient hook or door-knob (Fig. 19) with the knot at the knob or hook. Tie the cord on the needle to the loop, place the fid or mesh-stick un- der the cord close to the loop (Fig. 20), with the thumb on the cord to hold it in place (Fig. 25), while you pass the needle around the mesh-stick, and, with its point toward you, pass it through the loop from the top, bringing it over the mesh-stick. This will make the first half of the knot (Fig. 21). Pull this tight, holding it in place with the thumb while you throw the cord over your hand, which forms the loop as seen in Fig. 22. Then pass Knot& the needle from under through the loop, pulling it tight to fasten the knot. Hold it 6o Spring. in place with the thumb, and repeat these movements for the next knot. Fig. 23 shows a number of these knots finished, A in Fig. 23 is a knot before it is drawn tight ; B in Figs. 21, 22, 23 is the string that runs to the needle, C is the rope, and D is the mesh-stick. About two hundred and sixty-four of these knots or meshes will make the net the regular length, thirty-three feet In knitting across, the meshes will accumulate on the fid ; shove them off to the left, a few at a time, to make space for others. When the desired number of meshes are finished to form the first row, shove them all off the fid, as shown in Fig. 24. Begin the next row by again plac- ing the fid under the cord (Fig. 24). Take up the first mesh, drawing it close to the mesh-stick, hold it in place with the thumb while throwing the cord over your hand, pass the nee- dle on the left-hand side of the mesh from under through the loop (Fig. 25) ; pull this tight, and you will have tied the common knitting-knot. Repeat this with all the loops until the row is finished. When it becomes necessary to thread or fill the needle, tie the ends of the cord with the knot shown in Fig. 26, which, when properly tightened, cannot slip. Wrap each end of the cord from the knot securely to the main cord with strong thread, to give the net a neat appearance. Continue netting until the net is three feet wide. Then un- tie the rope, and spread the net by sliding the knots apart, and fasten the second rope to the bottom of the net by tying the rope How to Make a Lawn- Tennis Net. 61 securely to the first mesh with the cord on the needle ; then carry the rope and cord to the next mesh, hold the rope, cord, and mesh firmly in place, and throw the cord over your hand, passing the needle down through the mesh under the rope and cord out through the loop (Fig. 27). Pull this tight, and continue in like manner, knitting each suc- cessive mesh to the rope until the net is all fastened on. Turn back the end of the rope and wrap it down neatly with strong string Flg ' 26 * (Fig. 28). In the same way secure the other end, and also the ends of the first or top rope. Fig. 25. This completes the lawn-tennis net proper. The bright tassels can now be tied at intervals along the top of the net, and four pieces of twine fastened on each end of the net at equal distances apart. These are for tying the net to the poles (Fig. 29). To erect the lawn-tennis net, plant the two poles firmly in the ground a little over thirty-three feet apart, tie the net to the poles, then drive in the pegs, two to each pole, about five feet from the pole (Fig. 30) ; slide a runner on each end of the two guy-ropes by first threading the rope through one of the holes in the runner, then pass the rope over the side down 62 Spring. through the other hole and fasten it with a knot (Fig. 15). Next tie around the notch in the top of the poles the guy-ropes, with runners attached, and slip each loop made by the runner over each peg (Fig. 31), allow- ing the rope to fall in the groove A near the top of the peg ; tighten the rope by pushing up the runners. The stakes are thus held in position by ropes running out to the pegs in the ground (Fig. 30). Now we understand how to make and erect a lawn-tennis net; but what shall we do about the court ? Of course, that must be all ready before we can set up the net. We must now learn how to lay out a Lawn-Tennis Court. The best ground for this is turf, though it may be of asphalt, or earth mixed with fine gravel ; sometimes wood is used. The diagram on page 64 (Fig. 32) shows the construction of a lawn-tennis court for two, three, or four-handed games. Lay out the court with a hundred-foot measuring-tape, by marking the lines with whitewash, chalk, paint, or plaster-of-Paris. First the side line, seventy-eight feet, How to Make a Lawn - Tennis Net. 63 AB. This gives you one side of your court. Then the base line, thirty-six feet, AC, which, with their parallel lines CD and DB, form the boundaries of a court for four- handed games. Now lay off the side lines of the single court, EG and FH, which are parallel to the others and four and a half feet inside of them. Divide the court across the centre by the net, fastened to the poles O and P. The lines EF and GH are called base lines. Twenty-one feet from the net, mark the service lines, MN and TV. Then make the central longitudinal line, IJ, and the court is complete. Now everything is prepared for the game. Hold your racket firmly, and try to keep the ball flying over the net, back and forth, as often as possible. For the guidance of those who have had no opportunity of learning to play lawn-tennis the following rules are given, as adopted by the United States National Lawn-Tennis Associ- ation. First, however, we would say that it is not necessary always to have an umpire or a referee, as spoken of in the Rules for Lawn-Tennis. THE GAME. 1. The choice of sides, and the right to serve in the first game, shall be decided by toss ; provided that, if the winner of the toss choose the right to serve, the other player shall have choice of sides, and vice versa. If one player choose the court, the other may elect not to serve. 2. The players shall stand on opposite sides of the net ; the player who first delivers the ball shall be called the server, and the other the striker-out. 6 4 Spring. Fig. 33 A E Base Linel 36 ft. F , a ! T Service Line 27 ft. V 1- cc oc d o o d h- X o K u. u A $ e P oc _J p Jl N ET ec N ET h- OC 1 * o I- u_ Ml o 1- I CM M cc B M 5 Service Line 27 ft. N H S Q Base Line c 36 ft. H LAWN-TENNIS COURT. How to Make a Lawn- Tennis Net. 65 3. At the end of the first game the striker-out shall become server, and the server shall become striker-out ; and so on, al- ternately, in all the subsequent games of the set, or series of sets. 4. The server shall serve with one foot on the base line, and with the other foot behind that line, but not necessarily upon the ground. He shall deliver the service from the right to the left courts alternately, beginning from the right. 5. The ball served must drop between the service line, half- court line, and side line of the court, diagonally opposite to that from which it was served. 6. It is a fault if the server fail to strike the ball, or if the ball served drop in the net, or beyond the service line, or out of court, or in the wrong court ; or if the server do not stand as directed by law 4. 7. A ball falling on a line is regarded as falling in the court bounded by that line. 8. A fault cannot be taken. 9. After a fault the server shall serve again from the same court from which he served that fault, unless it was a fault be- cause he served from the wrong court. 10. A fault cannot be claimed after the next service is de- livered. 11. The server shall not serve till the striker-out is ready. If the latter attempt to return the service he shall be deemed ready. 12. A service or fault, delivered when the striker-out is not ready counts for nothing. 13. The service shall not be volleyed, i.e., taken, before it has touched the ground. 14. A ball is in play on leaving the server's racket, except as provided for in law 6. 15. It is a good return, although the ball touch the net ; but 5 66 Spring. a service, otherwise good, which touches the net, shall count for nothing. 16. The server wins a stroke if the striker-out volley the ser- vice, or if he fail to return the service or the ball in play ; or if he return the service or the ball in play so that it drops out- side of his opponent's court ; or if he otherwise lose a stroke, as provided by law 18. 17. The striker-out wins a stroke if the server serve two consecutive faults ; or if he fail to return the ball in play ; or if he return the ball in play so that it drops outside of his oppo- nent's court ; or if he otherwise lose a stroke as provided by law 1 8. 1 8. Either player loses a stroke if he return the service or the ball in play so that it touches a post of the net ; or if the ball touch him or anything that he wears or carries, except his racket in the act of striking ; or if he touch the ball with his racket more than once ; or if he touch the net or any of its sup- ports while the ball is in play ; or if he volley the ball before it has passed the net. 19. In case any player is obstructed by any accident, the ball shall be considered a let. 20. On either player winning his first stroke, the score is called 15 for that player; on either player winning his second stroke, the score is called 30 for that player ; on either player winning his third stroke, the score is called 40 for that player ; and the fourth stroke won by either player is scored game for that player, except as below : If both players have won three strokes, the score is called deuce ; and the next stroke won by either player is scored advantage for that player. If the same player wins the next stroke, he wins the game ; if he loses the next stroke the score returns to deuce ; and so on, until one player wins the two strokes immediately following the score of deuce, when game is scored for that player. How to Make a Lawn- Tennis Net 67 21. The player who first wins six games wins the set ; ex- cept as follows : If both players win five games, the score is called games all ; and the next game won by either player is scored advantage game for that player. If the same player wins the next game, he wins the set ; if he loses the next game, the score returns to games all ; arid so on, until either player wins the two games immediately following the score of games all, when he wins the set. But individual clubs, at their own tour- naments, may modify this rule at their discretion. 22. The players shall change sides at the end of every set; but the umpire, on appeal from either player, before the toss for choice, may direct the players to change sides at the end of every game of each set, if, in his opinion, either side have a dis- tinct advantage, owing to the sun, wind, or any other accidental cause ; but if the appeal be made after the toss for choice, the umpire can only direct the players to change sides at the end of every game of the odd or deciding set. 23. When a series of sets is played, the player who served in the last game of one set shall be striker-out in the first game of the next. 24. The referee shall call the game after an interval of five minutes between sets, if either player so order. 25. The above laws shall apply to the three-handed and four-handed games, except as below : 26. In the three-handed game, the single player shall serve in every alternate game. 27. In the four-handed game, the pair who have the right to serve in the first game shall decide which partner shall do so ; and the opposing pair shall decide in like manner for the second game. The partner of the player who served in the first game shall serve in the third, and the partner of the player who served in the second game shall serve in the fourth ; and the same order shall be maintained in all the subsequent games of the set. 68 Spring. 28. At the beginning of the next set, either partner of the pair which struck out in the last game of the last set may serve, and the same privilege is given to their opponents in the second game of the new set. 29. The players shall take the service alternately throughout the game ; a player cannot receive a service delivered to his partner ; and the order of service and striking out once estab- lished shall not be altered, nor shall the striker-out change courts to receive the service, till the end of the set. 30. It is a fault if the ball served does not drop between the service line, half-court line, and service side line of the court, diagonally opposite to that from which it was served. 31. In matches, the decision of the umpire shall be final. Should there be two umpires, they shall divide the court be- tween them, and the decision of each shall be final in his share of the court. ODDS. A bisque is one point which can be taken by the receiver of the odds at any time in the set except as follows : (a) A bisque cannot be taken after a service is delivered. (#) The server may not take a bisque after a fault, but the srriker-out may do so. One or more bisques may be given to increase or diminish other odds. Half fifteen is one stroke given at the beginning of the second, fourth, and every subsequent alternate game of a set. Fifteen is one stroke given at the beginning of every game of a set. Half thirty is one stroke given at the beginning of the first game, two strokes given at the beginning of the second game ; and so on, alternately, in all the subsequent games of the set. How to Make a Lawn- Tennis Net. 6 9 Thirty is two strokes given at the beginning of every game of a set. Half forty is two strokes given at the beginning of the first game, three strokes given at the beginning of the second game ; and so on, alternately, in all the subsequent games of the set. Forty is three strokes given at the beginning of every game of a set. Half court : The players may agree into which half court, right or left, the giver of the odds shall play; and the latter loses a stroke if the ball returned by him drop outside any of the lines which bound that half court. THE BALLS. The balls shall measure not less than 2^-f- inches, nor more than 2j inches in diameter ; and shall weigh not less than ii$ oz. , nor more than 2 oz. The May-Pole Dance. CHAPTER VI. MAY-DAY. Ho ! the merrie first of Male Bryngs the daunce and blossoms gaie, To make of lyfe a holiday. N the merry heart of youth the old song still finds an echo, and this day, with its relics of pagan customs, celebrat- ing, in the advent of spring, nature's renewed fertility, is a festival full of fun for the children. Some of the ceremonies of May- day, handed down from generation to generation, were brought to America in old colonial days by the English, but owing, perhaps, to the stern puri- tanical training of most of the early settlers, the customs did not thrive here as in the mother coun- try, and many of them have died out altogether. May-day is one of the many holidays still celebrated, that originated among the pagans ages ago, and it is said that the practice of choosing a May-queen and crowning her with flowers is a remnant of the ceremonies in honor of Flora, the goddess of flowers, which were held in Rome the last four days of April and the first of May. There was, at one time, a very pretty custom observed in 72 Spring. Merrie England of fastening bunches of flowering shrubs and branches of sycamore and hawthorn upon the doors of those neighbors whose good lives and kindly habits were thus recog- nized by their friends. The maids and matrons of England formerly had a way of their own of observing the day. On the first of May they would all go trooping out with the earliest rays of the morning sun, to bathe their faces in the magic dew, which glistened upon the grass once a year only, and was supposed to render the features moistened with it beautiful for the next twelve months. When the writer was a wee little girl there lived next door to her home two old maiden ladies, who always kept a bottle of May-dew among their treasures. Although the ladies in question had long since passed that period when maidens are supposed to be lovely, superstitious persons might have found confirmation of a belief in the power of the dew, when they looked upon the sweet and kindly faces of these old maids. Faith in the fabled efficacy of May-dew will probably lose its last adherents when the two old ladies, very aged now, leave this world ; but other pretty customs, from which all the super- stitious elements seem to have departed, should not be allowed to die out, and we intend this chapter on May-day sports as a reminder that May-day is a holiday and should be fittingly cele- brated by the older girls as well as the little children, who, in these times, seem to be the only ones to remember the day. May-day Sports. A May-day custom, and a very pretty one, still survives among the children in our New England States. It is that of hanging upon the door-knobs of friends and neighbors pretty spring-offerings in the shape of small baskets filled with flowers, wild ones, if they can be obtained ; if not, the window-gardens May-Day. 73 at home are heavily taxed to supply the deficiency. When the dusky twilight approaches, it is time for the merry bands of young folks to start out on this lovely errand of going from house to house, leaving behind them the evidence of their fly- ing visit in these sweetest of May-offerings. Silently ap- proaching a door, they hang a May-basket upon the knob and, with a loud rap, or ring of the bell, scamper off, and flee as though for life. These little Mayers are sometimes pursued, but few are ever caught, for the recip- ients of the baskets know that to capture a child, carry Fig. 33. The Straw Basket. her into the house and treat her to sweetmeats, usually dear to the youthful palate, will not compensate the little prisoner for being held captive and thereby missing the fun going on among the other children. 74 Spring. How to Make May-baskets. The dainty little baskets which are used by the Mayers are generally of home manufacture. They are made of almost any material, and in a variety of shapes. Some, constructed of card- board, are covered with crimped tissue-paper, or with gilt, silver, or colored paper. They are never large unless flowers are plentiful, and even in that case a small basket is prettier. Our first illustration represents a May-basket made of straws. Fig. 33 shows the frame of this basket, for which three straws seven inches long are required ; these are sewed together, two and one-half inches from the bottom, forming a tripod. For the sides eighteen straws are necessary, six on each side, of graduating lengths ; the three top straws being five inches long and the lowest ones three and one-half inches. These are sewed to the frame, log-cabin fashion, one upon another. The bottom of the basket is made of a three-cornered piece of card-board cut to fit ; three straws, two and one-half inches long, hold the base of the frame in position. A handle formed of three ribbons finishes off this May-basket very prettily ; a ribbon is tied to each corner of the basket ; the other ends meeting form a bow, as shown in the illustration. Birch-bark Baskets are quite appropriate for wild flowers, and one in the shape of a canoe can be made from a strip of bark six and one-half inches long and four inches wide. Fig. 34 gives the pattern of this basket. The dotted lines show where the ends are to be sewed together ; a ribbon sewed to each end of the canoe serves for a handle. Card-board Baskets, cut after the pattern Fig. 35, can be covered with gilt, silver, of crimped tissue-paper as desired ; paper lace or fringe is some- May-Day. 75 times placed around the edges of baskets of this kind, as a border to rest the flowers upon. The card-board basket shown in illustration is joined together by buttonhole stitching of col- ored-silk floss ; slits are cut in two sides and a ribbon slipped The Birch-bark Basket. through, the ends of which are tied in bow-knots to hold them in place. May-day Combat. This game, although suggested by the ceremonies which, ac- cording to Waldron, usher in the month of May in the Isle of 7 6 Spring. Man, is entirely new and bids fair to become popular, as it com- bines the elements of beauty, sentiment and mirth. A number of young people separate into two parties, each having its queen ; one the Queen of May, the other Queen of Winter. The May-queen and her attendants should be decked with flowers, Winter and her retinue being without decoration. Equipped with the ap- propriate implements of warfare between the two seasons, namely, a wreath of flowers for spring and a ball of raw cotton, or wool, representing snow, for win- ter, the contending forces draw up in opposing lines, the space between being about twelve feet. Each line is headed by its re- spective queen, who holds her missile in her hand. The Card-board Basket. Fig. 35. The game is commenced by the two queens simultaneously tossing the wreath and ball to someone in the .opposite line, whose name is called as the missile is thrown. Should the per- son to whom it is thrown fail to catch it, she is made prisoner and must do battle on the other side, being released only when she succeeds in catching the missile belonging to her own party. May-Day. 77 When the wreath and ball are caught, they are instantly tossed back to the opposite rank, and so the game goes on. Hostilities must cease when prisoners are being taken or released, to be recommenced when both sides announce themselves ready. If either queen is captured she is ransomed by the return of all the prisoners taken on her side ; should she have no prisoners to release, the game is ended. If the May-queen and her forces are defeated, they must strip off their floral decorations and give them to the victors, who, decked in these trophies, become the representatives of Spring, and the Queen of Winter is made Queen of May and is crowned by her vanquished and dethroned opponent. The for- mer May-queen and her retinue, after offering their congratula- tions, must serve as attendants on the triumphant queen and do her bidding. When the May-queen proves victorious the programme is reversed, and Winter and her party become the subjects of May. The May-pole. An old writer, speaking of the May-games held in England, says, " Their cheefest Jewell is their Maie-poole," and to leave the May-pole out of our list of May-sports would indeed deprive the day of one of its most important and prettiest features. The appropriate place for the May-pole is, of course, out of doors ; yet the climate in most of our Northern States is so changeable and uncertain it may be found necessary for comfort to hold the festivities in the house, and in that case the following directions for erecting the pole in a room of moderate dimensions will be found useful. How to Erect a May-pole in the House. A May pole from ten to twelve feet high is as tall as the ceilings of most rooms will admit. 78 Spring. The pole should be round, smooth, and about five inches in diameter at the base, growing gradually smaller toward the top. For its support a wooden box is necessary, the average size being three feet long, two feet wide, and one foot high. Re- move the top of the box, and directly in the centre of it cut a hole large enough to admit the pole. Take two sticks, two inches wide, and long enough to fit lengthwise in the box, and Fig< 36- two shorter ones fitting the box crosswise, and nail them securely in the position shown in Fig. 36, driving the nails from the outside of the box. Slip the pole through the hole which has been cut in the top, and then stand it in an upright position between the four sticks in the centre of the box (Fig. 37). Be sure that the pole stands per- fectly straight ; then, before nailing down the top, fill the box with sand, bricks, or stones, packing them tightly around the pole ; this will give sufficient weight to prevent its tipping. Nail the top on, and cover the box with moss or green cloth, and bank it up with flowers. How to Dress a May-pole. In olden times the May-poles were painted in alternate stripes of yellow and black, but a white pole is prettier and shows the decorations to better advantage. Tack the ends of eight or ten variously colored ribbons, one and one-half inch wide, around the pole near the top. For a pole ten feet high the ribbons should be four yards long. Around where the ribbons are fastened on, suspend a wreath of flowers, as shown May-Day. 79 in Fig. 38. Decorate the extreme tip of the pole with gaily colored streamers, or small flags. May-pole Dance. An even number of persons are required for this dance; half the number take the end of a ribbon in the right hand and half in the left; they then stand facing alternately right and left. When the dance commences, each dancer fac- ing the right passes under the ribbon held by the one opposite facing the left ; she then allows the next person going to the left to pass un- der her ribbon, and so, trip- ping in and out, under and over, the ribbons are woven around the pole. After continuing for a while, according to the above directions, the dancers sep- arate into two equal divi- sions, and each party, inde- pendent of the other, plaits a strip which hangs loosely rig. 37. from the pole. In performing this variation the two parties stand on either side of the pole, and all those facing the right pass on in that direction, going in and out as at first, until the last person go- ing to the right has passed the last person going to the left in her division ; then, transferring the ribbons to their other hands, I 8o Spring. they all turn and reverse the order. Thus they continue, going back and forth until the plait is about a foot in length, when an- other change is made by the two parties joining forces again ; this time, all those facing the left proceed in that direction, pass- ing under the ribbons of all the others who are going to the right, thus forming two circles, one within the other. After going twice around the pole in this order, the dancers composing the inner circle take the outside and the others pass beneath their ribbons, again circling the pole twice ; then, after going through the first figure once more the dance may be ended, or the whole order may be reversed, and the ribbons, in that way, be Fig. 38. , .. , unplaited again. An appropriate song, with words set to a dancing air, should be sung by those taking part in the May-pole dance. Midsummer-eve Party. CHAPTER VII. MIDSUMMER EVE. the minds of most of us, midsummer is associated with dry, dusty roads, parched vegetation, the shrill cry of the locust,* the shriller notes of the mosquitoes, and the hum of myriads . of other insects ; but, girls, midsum- mer does not come at this time : astronomy fixes the date at June 2 ist, the longest day of the year, when the leaves are still glossy green with the fresh sap cir- culating through their veins, giving them that healthy, juicy look so refreshing to the eye, and the heat of the sun has not yet dried to a white powder the firm country roads over which we delight to wander. Ages ago the Pagans used to celebrate the day with rejoic- ing, because old Sol's bright face had broken loose from the clouds of winter, and the rain and mists of spring. They symbolized the revolution of the season by rolling great wooden wheels down the hill-sides ; sometimes attaching straw to the outer circle and setting fire to it at night, making a miniature midnight sun as it dashed down the steep incline. The people also believed that ill-luck rolled away from them with the fiery wheel, and to this day you will see Fortune or Cicada, commonly known among children as the locust. Midsummer Eve. 85 Misfortune represented as travelling, like an acrobat at a circus, upon a wheel. All the elves, brownies, and fays were supposed to be on hand at midsummer night, and it is this old superstition that Shakespeare has so beautifully illustrated in his " Midsummer Night's Dream." It was on midsummer eve that the supposed invisible seeds of the fern could be gathered which rendered the fortunate possessor invisible whenever he chose to carry them about with him. Among other strange and some quite pretty superstitions, there is a tradition that a coal, found attached to the roots of the mugwort or plantain on midsummer eve, will keep away misfortune and insure good luck to the finder. The girls of to-day who, although advanced enough to dis- card the superstitious element, can appreciate the poetic ideas symbolized by these ancient rites, may take hints for the enter- tainment of themselves and friends from the old belief in the mysteries and charms of midsummer eve. Games can be invented, and pretty keepsakes and souvenirs exchanged upon this night, that will translate ancient paganism into modern good feeling and fellowship. The New Fern-leaf Game. Some one who has charge of the games shows to the assem- bled girls and boys a fern-leaf, and explains to them the le- gend connected with it, and the power of the seed to render the possessor invisible. Next she blindfolds them all; then, choos- ing one from among them, she removes the bandage from the player's eyes without allowing the others to know who has been selected to be the bearer of the magic fern. After giving the fern-leaf into the keeping of the chosen one, she places the latter in the centre of a ring formed by the rest of the players, who take hold of hands and circle round ; then, still holding 86 Summer. hands, they forward to the centre and return ; letting go hands, they forward again, this time the fern-bearer joins in the ranks. Once more the ring is formed and they circle round, singing these lines : Round goes the wheel, To the one who finds Round goes the year, The seeds of the fern, For woe or for weal, Misfortune and evil Midsummer is here. To good luck will turn. At the word " turn," each player seizes another and cries out, "fern, fern ! " at the same time removing the handkerchief from the eyes. To the one who really has captured the magic fern a pretty card or silk badge, bearing a pictured fern and some appropriate motto, is given, as a token that the entire company wish all possible good luck to the possessor. The Plantain Test. To test fortune in this way, fill a large pan or bowl with clean dry sand ; provide as many plantain-plants as there are players, and to the roots of all but one tie, with a narrow ribbon, a bonbon which contains within its wrapper a verse indicating that the wrong plant has been chosen. To the one reserved from the rest attach a small piece of coal, or charcoal, wrapped in a bonbon paper which also encloses a verse describing the magic powers of the coal. Place all of the plants in the sand, making them look as though growing there. All this should be prepared before the party assembles, that no one may know to which plant the coal is fastened. When the appointed time arrives, explain to the company that to the root of one of the plants in the bowl is fastened a coal which, according to old superstition, will secure to the finder perfect health for life. Then let each person in turn pull Midsummer Eve. from the sand one of the plants. The one $ who finds the coal should be heartily congratulated, as j| she is supposed to have gained the good will of fortune S? and to be ex- empt from all the ills that flesh is heir to. g| The plantain is not difficult to secure, as it grows in almost every grass- plot, much to the annoyance of those who take pride in their lawns. Should the name be unfamiliar to some of our readers, the accom- panying illustration will help them recognize the weed. A pretty charm for the watch-chain can be made of the coal which is to bring the finder such good luck,* by having it cut to a proper size and shape, and a gold or sil- ver band put around it. This will make it a souvenir, carry- ing out the old idea that the magic coal should be worn upon the person to bring the COVeted good fortune. Magic Plantain. Rhymes to be enclosed in the paper with the magic coal : Where my roots are intertwined Lo, the magic coal you find. Buried deep beneath the sand, Waiting for your favored hand, * Cannel coal is the best to use, for it is hard, will take a high polisi like jet, and can be carved with a pen-knife. 88 Summer. I have held it free from harm ; Take, and wear the mystic charm. From the lightning's deadly stroke, From the fire it may invoke, From all illness, pain, and strife, May it guard thee safe through life. Rhymes to be enclosed in bonbons tied to the roots of plan- tains which do not bring good luck : Though ye seek, ye seek in vain Fortune's favor thus to gain, For I bring to you no coal To write your name on Fortune's roll. Pity 'tis you thought it best To pick out me from all the rest, For no root of mine comes near The coal that brings good fortune here. Chance capricious, captures choice ; Fickle Fortune favors few ; When deaf to love, or reason's voice, What makes you think she'll favor you ? I am no messenger of fate, You find this out, alas ! too late ; I bring no magic coal with me, From pains and ills to set you free. Any bright girl can scribble off little jingles of this sort that will do very well for the plantain test, or appropriate quotations may be selected for the purpose. Fortune's Wheel. Just where Fortune will fail each member of the company present is discovered in the following game : Midsummer Eve. The entire party forms into a circle, standing about two feet apart ; then a wheel or hoop is started around the inside of the ring, and kept going by each one giving it a gentle push with the hand, sending it to the person next in the circle. As the wheel goes around the players sing these lines, pronouncing a word as each player touches the wheel, as if counting out. Fortune's wheel we speed along The while we sing our mystic song. Bring happiness, fame, power, and wealth, True love, long life, good friends, and health, v Success in music, poetry, art, And with it all a merry heart. When the wheel drops at the feet of anyone as a gift of For- tune is being sung, or if they fail to strike it as it passes, or, striking, they send it into the centre of the ring instead of to their next neighbor, it denotes that Fortune will withhold that special gift from them, and they must leave the circle, for good luck has deserted them. The game continues until only one player remains, and this person, who has succeeded in keeping the wheel moving, is Fortune's favorite, and will possess all the gifts the mythical Goddess can bestow. Starfish Portifere. CHAPTER VIII. SEA-SIDE COTTAGE DECORATION. % IMPLY to enter a house is enough to start some people to planning how it can, might, or should be decorated. The love of beauty seems to be inherent in the femi- nine character, and it is the nature of most girls to make their sur- roundings as beautiful as circum- stances will permit. Those who have taste and ability for decora- tion can see no barren or homely room without being seized with the desire to banish its uncomeliness, and substitute grace and beauty in its stead. The ordinary cottage at the sea-shore is a boon to such natures, for it is peculiarly well adapted to amateur decoration. Its ceiled walls offer plain, even, flat tinted surfaces for any kind of ornamentation, and the absence of plaster makes it pos- sible to drive nails wherever it is desirable to have them. During a summer spent in one of these cottages on the coast of Maine, its many possibilities in the way of decoration were revealed, and personal experience has demonstrated that even the plainest of these temporary abiding-places is capable of be- ing greatly beautified in a short time, and with materials usually 9 2 Slimmer. Diagram of Ring. close at hand, being obtainable from the fishermen and from the sea itself. The windows first claim our attention in any house and our little cottage is no exception to the rule. With, or without, the regulation shades, windows should always be draped ; the formality of their straight lines and angles can be subdued in no other way. Light, airy curtains are suitable for summer, and the prettiest, most graceful window-drapery imaginable can be made of ordi- nary fish-net. An oar for a pole ; rings made of rope (Fig. 39) ; the looping formed of a rope tied in a sailor's knot ; and a wooden hoop, such as is used to attach the sail to the mast on a sail-boat (Fig. 40) are all that are necessary for the completion of this nautical curtain. Small rings screwed into the oar, with corresponding hooks in the window-frame just above the window, will hold the oar securely in place. The looping should hang from a hook fastened in the wall near the window. The il- lustration given here will aid the imagination in picturing the effect of a window treated in this simple manner. Another pretty curtain may be made of unbleached cotton, with bands of blue at top and bottom covered with the ever- decorative fish-net. Gray linen curtains, with strips of the net set in as in* sertion at top and bottom, will also be found extremely pretty and serviceable ; or they may be composed of strips Looping for Cur- tains. Sea-side Cottage Decoration. 93 of linen and net, of equal width, running the length of the curtain. Made up in either way the effect is excellent. Sea-side Cottage Window. From window-drapery we will turn to that suitable for the door-ways. Portieres, in a room where the prevailing tints are 94 Summer. gray and light wood-color, should not present too violent a con- trast to those subdued tones. A curtain of wood-brown, neither Diagram of Tying Knot. Fastening End of Rope. too dark nor too light, will give the needed strength and decision, with- out destroying the harmonious col- oring. One can be quickly and easily made of brown canton flannel and decorated with dried starfish, as shown in the illus- tration of the starfish portiere. The starfish are soft enough to admit of being sewed to the curtain, and they should be placed with the underside out, as that is much prettier than the back, showing as it does two shades of color. A heavy rope with a knot at each end, stretched taut across the door-way and held in place with two hooks, will answer for a pole, and the drapery can be hung from it with iron rings. If the rope is very heavy the ends will have to be parted into strands before the knots can be tied. Figs. 41 and 42 show the manner of tying the knot and fastening the end of a moderately heavy rope. Diagram of Book-shelves. Sea-side Cottage Decoration. 95 Book-shelves made of half of a flat-bottomed row-boat is not only an appropriate piece of furniture for a cottage by the sea, but also a very useful one. The fact of its shape allowing it to occupy a corner makes it a welcome addition to the furnishing since there are so few things adapted to fill that angle. Fig. 43 Summer. shows half of boat with cleats nailed on to hold the shelves, which must be made to fit the boat. The shelves, when resting on the cleats, are secure enough, and need not be fastened in any other way. If the book-shelves, when finished, are painted black, unvarnished, they will have the appearance of being ebonized. The evidence of a womanly presence in the shape of a dainty tfy.44 7 Diagram of Crab-net Work-basket. work-basket always gives a home-like look to a room, and when this useful trifle happens to be prettily designed it contributes not a little to the decorations. The standing work-basket rep- resented here is manufactured of a crab-net, with the handle removed, fastened to a tripod stand. The tripod may be made of bamboo, or any kind of straight sticks about the length of a walking-cane. Upon one of the Sea-side Cottage Decoration. 97 sticks two notches must be cut ; one exactly in the centre, and the other at one side just below (see Fig. 44). The second stick needs but one notch, which should match the upper one on the first stick (Fig. 45). The third stick has no notches. To fasten them together, Fig. 45 must be laid across Fig. 44 as in Fig. 46, and the two fastened together with screws. The third stick must then be placed across the others, fitting in the two upper notches ; this must be secured with two screws, one pass- ing through each of the other sticks (Fig. 47). The stand when finished should be painted black, and the crab-net, which has previously been gilded, fastened in place by tying it on to each stick with a cord and tassel made of rope and gilded. Notches cut in the sticks, about three inches from the top, will afford a resting-place for the cord and keep it from slipping. The hat-rack, which our draw- ing represents, makes an excel- lent and convenient hall-decora- tion. The materials used in its construction are a small mirror, which can be procured at any country store ; four boards, whose length and breadth depend upon the size of the mirror ; two oars, with one-third of each handle sawed off ; one dozen large-sized nails, or small spikes, and a piece of rope about twelve feet long. The frame is made by nailing the boards to- gether as shown in illustration, placing the end-boards on top. 7 Crab-net Work-basket. 9 8 Summer. The opening left in the centre should be one inch smaller than the mirror. When eight of the spikes have been driven into the frame at regular distances the mirror must be fastened on the back with strips of leather or sail-cloth, as shown in diagram (Fig. 48). The di- agram also shows how the oars are held in place and the rope attached. The knot in which the rope is tied is called a true-lover's knot, and can readily be fash- ioned by studying the dia- gram. Small nails driven through the rope where it crosses the back of the oar will keep the loops from slipping out of place. The remaining four spikes are to suspend the hat-rack from, and must be driven into the wall so that two will hold the top Sea-side Cottage Decoration. 99 loop, and the others the extreme upper corners of the side loops. The frame and oars may be painted black and the spikes and ropes gilded, or the whole will look well painted yellow or brown. A handsome screen can be made in the following manner : Procure a nice, firm clothes-horse, saw off the legs close to the bottom cross-piece, then cover the whole neatly, on both sides, with dark green cambric. Next tack smoothly on one side of each fold light-brown wrapping-paper, which comes quite wide, and may be bought by the yard. For the border use dark- green canton flannel cut in strips eight inches wide. Tack this around each fold of the screen with girnp-tacks, and paste the inside edges smoothly over the paper. The decorations of the screen shown in the illustration are composed entirely of products of the sea. Two panels are shown. One is decorated with sea-weed, dried starfish, and shells. Sea-weed and shells also are used on the other, but a group of horseshoe crabs take the place of the starfish. Sea-weed of various kinds suitable for this use can be found along the coast, and they may be gathered and dried in this way. Loosen the sea-weed from whatever it is attached to, and while still in the water slip a piece of stiff paper beneath it and lift it out. Quite a number can be carried on the same paper, but they should be taken home as soon as possible and placed in a tub of fresh water. The tub will give the larger kinds room to spread out, when a smaller vessel would cramp and rumple them. On sheets of paper, of the kind used for the screen, carefully lift each sea-weed out of the water, and with a small camel-hair brush straighten the parts that are too much folded, and separate those that lie too closely together. Should a plant be very much crumpled when taken out, quickly replace it in the water and try again. IOO Summer. Marine Screen. Sea- side Cottage Decoration. TO-I When they have all been satisfactorily spread on the paper and have become partially dry, they must be pressed by laying the paper which holds the sea-weed on a piece of blotting-paper or folded newspaper, and over it a piece of linen or fine cotton cloth ; then over that another piece of blotting-, or news-paper ; then again the paper with sea-weed, and so on ; when all are finished the entire heap should be placed be- tween two boards with a moderately heavy weight on top. When the sea- weed is quite dry which it will be in three or four days it will be found that some varieties will cling closely to the paper on which they have been spread, while others can readily be removed. Do not try to separate the first- mentioned kind from the paper, but with sharp scissors neatly trim off the edges around the weed ; the paper underneath be- ing the same as that of the screen on which it is to be pasted, it will not show. The other sea-weed can be taken from the paper and fastened to the screen with mucilage. Horseshoe Crab Bag. 102- Summer. Vase. Before commencing the decoration some idea of the design, or the effect to be produced, should be decided upon ; then with deft fin- gers the articles used can be glued in place. When the glue is dry the whole must be given a coat of white varnish. This will help to hold things in place, and will also keep the sea- weed from chipping off. An odd little bag for holding fancy work is made of two large horseshoe crab shells, with a satin bag fastened between them and tied at the top with a bow of ribbon. The main part of the bag can be of cambric the color of the satin, cut to fit the shells, the puff showing at the sides being of the satin. A pretty little vase can be made of the shells of three sea-urchins, of grad- uating sizes, placed one upon another, the smallest on top. The small hole in the bottom of the larg- est one should be filled up with damp plaster-of-Paris- which will harden very quickly. The other two shells must have the small holes enlarged to the size of the one at the top ; they candlestick. can then be joined togeth- er with the plaster, and the vase be used for flowers or vines, Sea- side Cottage Decoration. 103 A sea-urchin and good-sized starfish make the prettiest kind of a candlestick, and the addition of a brass-headed tack on every point but one of the starfish gives it a nice finish and furnishes feet for it to stand on ; the point left without a foot forms the handle by which it may be carried. The tacks should be stuck into the fish first, and then the sea-urchin fastened on with plaster-of-Paris. Not more than ten min- utes are consumed in making a candlestick of this kind, and it will be found to be quite as useful as it is pretty and unique. The walls of the cottage can be decorated in many ways with the beautiful ornaments the sea furnishes. Over one of the doors in the cottage alluded to at the beginning of this chapter there was an ornamentation that looked exactly like wood-carving, but was only a group of starfish arranged and tacked on the wall in a decorative form. The fish being nearly the exact color of the background, the deception was almost perfect. If the walls of a room are divided off into panels, and each panel decorated in the manner described for the screen, the effect will be most exquisite. On entering such a room one might almost imagine one- self to be a mermaid, and this a lovely chamber beneath the sea. So much can be done by one's own hands it depends great- ly, if not entirely, upon the taste or time one is willing to de- vote to it what this sea-side habitation shall be ; whether the little cottage shall be in harmony with its surroundings, seem- ingly a part of the place, or whether it shall be only a cheap frame-structure, looking as though it belonged in a country town and had been carried to the coast in a capricious gale of wind, with decorations, if it has any, inappropriate and unsuit- ed to the sea-shore. 104 Summer. How to Dry Starfish. Collect the most perfect specimens of all sizes, wash them in fresh water, and then spread on a board in a dry place (not in the sun) and leave them undisturbed for a few days, or until thoroughly dried. How to Polish Shells. Wash your shells in clean, fresh water ; procure a small quantity of muriatic acid and have in readiness two-thirds as much water as acid. Place the shells in a basin, pour the water upon them, then the acid ; let them remain a few minutes, then take them out and wash again in clear water. Rub each shell with a soft woollen cloth. A fine enamelled surface can be given by rubbing them with a little oil and finely powdered pumice- stone, and then with a chamois-skin. To bleach fresh-water shells to a snowy whiteness, wash them perfectly clean and then put them in a jar containing a so- lution of chloride of lime, place the vessel in the sun, and, when the shells are sufficiently bleached, remove and wash them in clear water. Polish them in the manner before described. CHAPTER IX. A GIRL'S FOURTH OF JULY. ECORATIONS are seen here, there, and everywhere. How beautifully the flags and streamers look as they wave in the breeze. All the houses and streets are gay with bunt- ing. We listen with a thrill of patriotic excitement to the national airs played by bands of music as the different pa- rades pass our doors. The spirit of independence fills the very air we breathe. Whiz ! zip ! bang ! go the fire- arms. The noise is enchanting and the smell of powder de- lightful. This is our grand national holiday, the glorious Fourth, when all the United States grows enthusiastic, and in various appropriate ways manifests its patriotism. The celebration, commencing in the early morn and last- ing until late in the evening, gives ample time for fireworks, games, and illuminations. And the girls can take active part in, and enjoy these martial festivities, help to decorate the house and grounds, and in the evening do their part toward the illu- mination. Then there are the beautiful daylight fireworks to The Tourth of July Party. A Girl's Fourth of July. 107 be sent off, and games to be played ; all adding to the enjoy- ment and making up their celebration of Independence Day. Although Interior Decoration for the Fourth of July has not been considered as necessary as the decoration for the outside of the house, still it is appro- priate and used to some extent, especially when the house is thrown open to guests. Then, with a little thought and care the home may be decked and adorned in the most attractive manner. If you chance to be the happy possessor of the portrait of some revolutionary ancestor, let this form the centre of your decorations. Bring forward any relics of the colonial times and make them hold a prominent place, for all such things are historical and of great interest, though of course they are not essential. Strips of bunting, cheese-cloth, or tissue-paper, in red and white and blue are necessary, and must do their part in adding to the gayety of the scene. These can be arranged in festoons, and made into wreaths, stars etc., to be used as ornaments on the wall. There is nothing, perhaps, more appropriate for decoration than flags, though it requires some ingenuity to decorate with our American flag on account of the blue being in one corner. However we will try. Take two flags without staffs and baste them together as in Fig. 49, bringing the blues side by side ; pleat up the top of each to the centre and you will have Fig. 50 with the stripes at the bottom running from end to end. Now take two more flags reversed, the stripes being at the top the stars at the base, and pleat them in the centre, it gives the same idea in another form. For this style of adornment use the flags which may be had at any dry-goods store ; they come io8 Summer. by the bolt, cost but a few cents each, and are much softer and fold better than the more expensive glazed ones. Other modes of draping the stars-and-stripes will suggest themselves : place Fig. 4,9 the "colors" in different positions until some good design is found, and you will enjoy it all the more for having made the combination yourself. Hg.JO Tiny flags fastened to the chandeliers, and pinned in groups on the curtains give to the room quite a holiday appearance, This is for the daylight. In the evening we will have In-door Illumination, which can be made very brilliant by simply using a number of lighted candles. Should you desire to have it more elaborate, the words Liberty and Independence can be printed on the windows by cutting the letters forming the words from thick paper and gum- A Girl's Foztrth of July. 109 ming them to the window-panes, so when the room is lighted they will show plainly from the outside. You may also make of tissue-paper a Liberty-bell, Goddess of Liberty, American Eagle, and flags. Gum these on the edges and fasten them to the windows ; place a bright light behind them and the tints of the paper will shine out in all their brilliancy. The Goddess of Liberty's face, the feathers on the eagle, and the lettering on the bell must all be drawn with a paint-brush and ink or black paint. In making any or all of these, it will be of great assistance if you secure a picture of the object to copy from. Having provided for the inside of the house it now behooves us to turn our attention to Out-of-door Decoration consisting principally of flags raised on poles, hung from win- dows, and disposed in numerous and various ways. The many devices representative of our country may be used with good effect. Thus, a large United States shield can be made of colored paper or inexpensive cloth tacked on a piece of card-board, cut in the desired shape, and the shield sus- pended from the window flat against the house, as a picture is hung on the wall. Other emblems can be manufactured in the same way. Small trees or tall bushes covered all over from top to bot- tom with flags and streamers look beautiful, and all the gayer, when the wind blows, causing them to wave and flutter. Fasten the flags and streamers on the tree with string. Some girls think that the Illumination in the Open Air. is best of all, for then they can give their fancy free play, and create all sorts of odd and novel designs. 110 Summer. The bright-colored Chinese lanterns are very decorative. Suppose we begin with these. Fasten securely here and there, on the lawn, large paper Japanese umbrellas in upright positions. This is accomplished by binding the handles of the umbrellas securely to poles which have been sharpened at one end, and planting the pointed end of the poles firmly in the ground. From every other rib of the umbrella suspend a lighted A Girl's Fourth of July. 1 1 1 Chinese lantern by a wire long enough to prevent any danger of setting the little canopy on fire. The effect produced is both novel and pretty. A popular method of arranging the lanterns is stringing them on wires, stretched from house to house, or from tree to tree, so forming, as it were, a fringe of lights. Again, they may be placed at intervals on the ground, fast- ened to trees or hung on the piazza, some in groups of twos or threes, others singly, these being of many odd shapes and sizes. Piazzas are very good sites for the display of colored umbrellas, which may hang, inverted, from the ceiling, with a tiny lighted Chinese lantern suspended from each rib. Let me repeat, be careful not to have the wires so short that the light is in dangerous proximity to the umbrella. Another pleasing illumination is to make a large flag of col- ored-paper with strong pieces of tape pasted along both top and bottom, the ends of the tape extending beyond the flag. Tie the tape to two trees, poles, or pillars of the porch, and place a light back of the flag, to bring out the colors clearly and distinctly. Illuminated tents are made by placing poles in the fashion of Fig. 51, and using large flags, low-priced colored cloth or strong paper as a covering, Fig. 52. The corners are tied down to pegs in the ground, and, when two or three candles are set in the tent, the effect is very pleasing. All young people delight in the noise and excitement of Fireworks, and here are some pyrotechnics which any girl can easily make. They are daylight fireworks, and most of them may be sent off from a balcony or window, and all with no danger of fire ^r burns. 112 Summer. One of the simplest to try is the Parachute. Cut a piece of tissue-paper five inches square, twist each cor- ner and tie with a piece of thread eight inches long, Fig. 53 ; wrap a small pebble in a piece of paper and tie the four pieces of thread se- curely to the peb- ble, Fig. 54. This makes a light airy little parachute, which, when sent out from the win- dow, will, with a favorable wind, sail up and off over the house-tops. Make a number of parachutes in different colors and send them off one after another in suc- cession. Next we will have what we call Thunderbolts fashioned of bright-colored tissue- paper. Cut the paper in pieces four inches wide and eight inches long. Then cut each piece into strips reaching about one-third of the length of the piece of paper (Fig- 55)> pinch the uncut end of Thunderbolts. the paper together and twist it tightly so that it will not become undone (Fig. 56). Open the window and throw these out a few at a time. They will Parachutes. A Girl's Fourth of July. 113 turn heavy end down and dart off with the fringed end flutter- ing. Now and then they will waver a moment in one spot, and then dart off in another direction ; so they go whirling, zigzag- ging and bowing as if they were alive. Something different from these are the comical little Whirls, made by cutting circular pieces of writing- or common wrap- ping-paper into simple spiral forms (Fig. 57). The centre of the spirals are weighted by small pieces of wood, or other not too heavy substance gummed on the paper. When a number of these are freed in mid-air the weight will draw the spirals out, and present a curious sight, as with serpen- tine motion they all come wrig- whirls, gling and twisting toward the ground (Fig. 58). In these paper fire-works, we know of noth- ing prettier than the Winged Fancies, consisting of birds and butterflies. The birds may be cut out of wrapping-paper, measuring seven and a half inches long and ten inches from tip to tip of the wings (Fig 59), a burnt match stuck in and out of the neck, will give the bird sufficient weight. When tossed from a height these paper swallows fly and skim through the air in the most delightful birdlike fashion. Both birds and butterflies are folded through the centre lengthwise, then unfolded and straightened out, this helps to give them form and they fly better. 8 Summer. The patterns here given are possibly not as graceful in shape as could be made, but the writer drew the patterns from the best fliers among an experimental lot of winged fancies, hav- ing found them better than others that could boast of more beauty. Butterflies are made of bright col- ored tissue-paper cut from the pattern (Fig 60), and have short pieces of broom- straws as weights. These also should be lightly thrown from a height, when they will flutter and fly downward, sometimes settling on a tree or bush as if seeking the sweets of flowers, and appearing very bright and pretty as they float hither and thither on the air. A ring of the ever- twirling The Bird. Pin-wheels The Butterfly. is gay and attractive, just the thing for the lawn on the Fourth of July. To manufacture one, select a nice firm barrel-hoop, and nail it securely on one end of a clothes- pole or broom-stick (Fig. 61), sharpen the other end of the pole Girl's Fourth of July. to a point ; if the hoop seems inclined to split when nailing, first bore holes with a gimlet or burn them with a red hot nail or wire for the nails to pass through. Cover the barrel-hoop several inches deep with straw, lay the straw on and tie it down with string. Prepare a number of pin-wheels by cutting squares of red and white and blue paper, fold them twice diagonally through the centre and cut the folds up within a short distance of the middle. Turn over every other point to meet the centre, pierce the four points and the centre with a pin, then fasten the pin firmly to the end of a stick. The pin must be left long enough to allow the paper to turn easily. Stick the straw wreath full of pin- wheels, then plant the pole securely in the ground and you will have a ring of Fourth of July pin-wheels which will look pretty all day long. Be sure to place the wreath facing the breeze, so the pin-wheels may be kept in constant mo- tion. Reserve the Bombs until the last. They are simple in construction, but quite start- ling when they go off. Fasten together two very stiff flat pieces of steel (Fig. 62), those sold for the back of dress-skirts work well, and use a strong string many yards long to tie them with. Bring up the four ends of the steels and tie them with a slip knot Pin-wheeL S^immer. (Fig. 63), in order that it may easily fly open. Place the cage thus formed in the centre of a square piece of tissue-paper. Now cut strips of different colored tissue-paper, four inches long, and twist each piece at one end. Put these in the centre of the cage and bring up the four corners of the square of paper, allowing the string to come out of the top. Twist the corners together and close up the small open- ] ings by folding over the edges of the paper. This makes a bomb somewhat re- sembling a common torpedo enlarged to many times its original size. Pass the string through a screw-eye which has been screwed in the end of a flag-pole or broomstick, and place the pole out of the window. Then drop the end of the string down to the lawn below. Fasten one end of the pole in the window by binding it firmly to a strong, heavy chair, or secure it in any other way most convenient so there will not be the slightest danger of its falling. A Girl's Fourth of Jiily. 117 Everything being ready, descend to the lawn, and pull the string so the bomb will rise slowly up to the pole. When it is within a short distance of the screw-eye, give the twine a sudden sharp jerk which will cause the bomb to come in contact with the pole with sufficient force to untie the slip- knot, the elastic-metal ribs will fly back causing the bomb to burst and fill the air with bright shreds, flying, gliding, and darting everywhere in the most eccentric manner, making the air brilliant with floating colors. Let your Fourth of July Lawn Party partake of the patriotic traditions, and as far as possible help to celebrate our Nation's birthday in an appropriate manner. Paper fire-works may form part of the entertainment, it being optional with the hostess whether they come before or after the games, or are interspersed between them. The party opens with the signing of the Declaration of Independence. To each guest is given a brown-paper bag, and when all have assembled on the lawn, the hostess steps forward facing the company, and asks all to kindly keep quiet and listen for a few moments while she reads or repeats their Declaration of Independence, she then reads : We girls are, and of right should be, free and independent of all boys' sports, having resources and amusements befitting the celebration of the Fourth of July, independent of all those belonging exclusively to boys. Then follows the signing of the same, by each in turn writing her name beneath the declaration. This accomplished, the hostess gives the signal and each guest fills her bag with air, by ii8 Summer. holding it close to her mouth, gathering it tightly around, and blowing into it, then grasping it firmly in the right hand, being careful not to let any air escape. At another signal, all simultaneously bring their hands forcibly and quickly together, striking the paper bags with the (eft hand, which bursts the bags and causes a report almost equal to that of pistols. All the bags exploding at one time, gives a salute worthy of the name and creates much merriment. The salute may be varied by bursting the bags in quick suc- cession, so that it will sound something like a volley of musketry. This introduction is followed by games to be played on the lawn. For the new game of Toss, make nine disks of card-board, painted or covered with paper, red and white and blue, three of each color. Place in the centre of the lawn a fancy waste-basket, and let each player in turn stand at a distance of six feet from the bas- ket. It is better to have the station marked by a stone or stick, at the place designated. If played by sides, two stations, one on either side of the basket will be necessary. The object of the game is to throw the disks into the basket, and they are valued according to color ; red counts one, white two, and blue three. If played by sides, each side should play five rounds, ninety being the highest possible tally for any one player. This is an easy and pleasant game, and may be played with or without sides. The hostess keeps account, and at the end of the game gives a knot of red, white, and blue ribbons as a prize to the one having the highest score. A Girl's Fottrth of July. 119 We hardly recognize our old friends in the new and gigantic Fourth of July Jackstraws. These are all in holiday attire, and so much larger than any we have seen that they are even more attractive, and afford greater amusement than those which we have hitherto enjoyed. It does not take long to make them. Cover a number of light slender sticks, three or four feet long, with paper or cloth, some red, some white, and others blue. The colors count respec- tively, red one, white two, and blue three. Provide another longer stick with a hook in one end to be used in taking the jack- straws from the pile. Stand the sticks up so as to meet at the top, and spread out like a tent at the bottom. Each player then takes the hook in turn and tries to remove a jackstraw, without shaking or throw- ing down any of the others. The one scoring the highest, wins the game and is entitled to the prize. Progressive games seem to be very popular, and deservedly so, as they possess an interest peculiarly their own. Here is a new and novel one, called Progressive Mining. It is played with flower-pots filled with sand or loose earth, called mines. A small flag on a slender staff is placed upright in the centre of each flower-pot (Fig. 64). The staff should be stuck down in the sand only just far enough to keep it steady in its position. Each player in turn removes a little sand from the mine with a stick called a wand, taking 120 Summer. great care not to upset the flag ; for the one causing the flag to fall loses the game. The number of mines needed will depend upon the number of persons playing, as one flower-pot is required for every two players. Each one taking part in the game, is provided with a wand. Slender bamboo canes make excellent wands, and may be decorated with red, white and blue ribbons, tied on the handles. Should the canes be difficult to pro- cure, then any kind of light slender stick will serve the purpose. The hostess should prepare blank envelopes, each containing a ribbon badge, or score sheet, of different colors, two of each ; these are all numbered, the figures being painted or pasted on the ribbons to designate the place to be taken, thus two reds are marked I, meaning that they are to occupy the first or prize mine. The blues are marked 2, showing that they take the second mine, and so on. The last or lowest place is called the booby mine. Each badge should have a small pocket attached (Fig. 65), for holding stamps ; these are cut in any desired form from gold and silver paper, which has previously been covered with mucilage on the under side, like a common postage-stamp. A Girl's Fo^lrth of July. 121 The hostess passes around the envelopes, each guest takes one, and upon opening it discovers where and with whom she is to play. The preliminaries being settled, and all having taken their places, the hostess starts the game by ringing a little bell. When one of the players at the prize mine upsets the flag, the other calls Q\\\. prize, and if the flags have not already fallen in the other mines, the couples play as quickly as possible until all the flags are down. The winner at the prize mine fastens a gold stamp on her ribbon badge, while the loser at the booby mine, ornaments hers with silver seal. The game is now rearranged, the winner at the prize mine remains at her station, and the loser goes down to the booby mine, while all those winning at the other mines move up, each one respectively to the next higher mine, for it is only at the prize mine where the loser moves her place and the victor re- mains stationary. When these details are settled, the flag-staffs are again planted in the flower-pots and the signal given for a new game. The player with the largest number of gold stamps on her score-sheet, receives the victor's prize, and the one having the most silver stamps is entitled to the booby prize. The prizes are given when the game is ended. They should consist of some pretty little article made by the hostess herself, and, if practicable, appropriate to the day, such as a delicate satin sachet in the form of a Liberty bell, with the lettering painted on it. A pretty pin-cushion, with a cover made of a miniature silken flag, or a dainty pen-wiper in the shape of Liberty's cap. Other more expensive gifts are not in good taste. The booby prize should be something grotesque or comical. As the mothers and sisters of 1776 took a full share in the 122 wnmer. hardships and trials of the Revolution, and actively assisted in gaining our independence, it is eminently fit and proper that American girls should show their appreciation of such bravery and heroism by assisting in the annual celebration of our famous Independence Day. Fourth of July seems heretofore to have been considered altogether too exclusively a boy's holiday, and it is with a hope of stimulating a renewed activity, and awakening in the heart of every girl in the United States a sense of proprietary interest in the day, that we suggest new methods of celebrat- ing our national holiday. CHAPTER X. PRINTING FROM NATURE'S TYPES. t AST summer we made some lovely impressions of flowers, leaves, and sprays ; then we tried landscapes and all sorts of beautiful designs. It is really delightful and fasci- nating work. You are led on and on, always with a fancy to try some- thing else to see how it will come out, and seldom, if ever, is it a dis- appointment or failure, a new interest being felt with every fresh print made. Moreover, you are sure of having your pict- ure original and the only one of its kind, for as no two flowers or leaves are precisely alike, so no print can be an exact copy of another. And then it takes only a few moments for the work which could not be accomplished in thrice the time should a drawing be made of the same design. Let me tell you how to make an " Impression Album" a book of printed flowers and leaves. You who have house- plants will find it a delightful winter recreation, a novel pleas- ure, and you can enjoy the pretty work even more during your summer vacation, with wild flowers at your command. The " prints " are taken from the natural flowers or leaves themselves. Girls who have no knowledge at all of drawing or of printing can with little trouble make these Impression Al- Making Prints. Printing from Natures Types. 125 Pink Oxalis. bums, and students of botany will find the work supplies valu- able memoranda of leaves and plants, as the print preserves de- tails of the form, fibre and veining of foliage and petal such as no drawing or photograph can. The printing can be made wholly accurate, giv- ing all the m inutiae of construction. The tools required to make these print-pictures are simple, and consist of a piece of glass, a palette-knife or table-knife and some printers' ink which comes in small tin boxes and can be procured at any stationery store, and a pad made of a ball of cotton tied in a piece of soft silk or satin. The printers' pad used by the writer for spread- ing the ink, was manufactured of the satin lining taken from a gentle- man's old hat, and answered the purpose admirably, being a good size, measuring nearly four inches in diameter. The album itself may be a common blank-book, with every other leaf cut out, in order to make room for the prints, which are on pieces Smilax. Evergreen Moss. 1 26 Summer. of blank unruled paper of uniform size, and small enough to fit in the album and leave a margin all around the piece inserted, so that the book when opened may be neat and attractive. Having all your tools at hand, select the leaves you wish to print. These must be free from dust or dew and perfectly fresh. First, with your knife, place a small quantity of printers' ink on the piece of glass and smooth it as evenly as possible over the surface. Then press the printers' pad down lightly, lifting, and again pressing, until the ink is evenly distributed on the pad ; next, select a leaf and place it face, or right side, down- ward on a piece of folded news- paper; press the inked pad down on the under side of the leaf, which is now, of course, lying upward, repeating the operation until the leaf is sufficiently cov- ered with ink. Carefully place the leaf, inked side down, on the centre of the piece of paper you have previously cut for the album ; over this lay a piece of Skeleton Geranium Leaves. .. common yellow wrapping-paper, or any paper that is not too thick or stiff", and rub the finger gently all over the covered leaf. Remove the outside paper and very carefully take up the leaf. You will find an exact impress of the natural green leaf showing every one of the deli- cate fibres. The picture is now ready to be pasted in the album, with a thin, delicate paste, touching only the corners. It is a good plan to write under each leaf the name of the plant or tree from which it was taken, with the date, and such facts as you would Printing from Nature's Types. 127 like to recall. Very valuable botanical collections can thus be made. Flowers are more difficult to print than leaves, owing to less "relief" in the films; i /y / still they make charming pict- ures when successfully treated, sometimes A Winter Landscape. Printed from Nature's Type. having the appearance of photographs of flowers with all the lights and shadows. 128 Summer. When printing flowers, proceed in the same manner as with the leaves. Sweet peas, roses, daisies, wild carrot, clover, and verbenas, all make beautiful impressions which look like pho- tographs. Grasses of various kinds also print well. In making a spray, it is best to have a definite idea of the form you desire it to take. If possible secure as a copy a nat- ural spray of the kind you wish to print. Then first print all the leaves in the positions they are to occupy, and connect them by drawing in the branch with pen and India-ink. Maple Leaves. Printed from Nature's Type. The Winter Landscape is printed from dried twigs, grasses, and little leafless plants, so arranged as to resemble trees and shrubbery. Only have a little confidence and you can make etchings from nature. Should you not understand drawing or compo- sition, do not be discouraged ; obtain a picture to copy, and then hunt up little plants and soft twigs as nearly as possible corresponding in shape and character to the trees in the copy ; in this way you can produce very creditable landscapes. Printing from Natures Types. 129 Botanical impressions maybe used for " fancy work " by being printed on satin, and the decorated satin made up as though it were painted or embroidered ; patches for silk quilts have been prettily decorated by this process. The printings also make beautiful patterns for outline work, much truer to nature than those made in any other manner and afford infinite variety for " borders " and " corners." Even satin dresses can be beautifully ornamented with impressions of leaves instead of the " hand painting " so long in use. You can, of course, see that should several colors of printers' ink be used, beautiful combinations and pleasing variety would be obtained, and that probably some unique and novel decorations would be se- cured. Letter-paper ornamented with a delicate design printed from nature's types is very dainty and pretty, and in many other forms can these simple and beautiful decorations be used. Then bring leaves and blossoms from the woods or door- yard, and half an hour may be delightfully spent in printing ^ How to Make a Hammock. 161 It is not difficult to make a hammock ; anyone can soon knit one that is strong and comfortable, and it should not cost more Mesh-sticks. than fifty cents. The materials required will be one hammock- needle about nine inches long (this can be whittled out of hick- A ory or ash, or purchased for ten cents) ; two iron rings two and one-half inches in diam- eter, which will cost about five cents each ; two mesh-sticks or fids, one twenty inches long and eight inches wide bevelled on both Fig. 100. Hammock Needle. Fig. 101. The Loop. Fig. 102. Small Fid and Loop. edges (Fig. 98) : the other nine inches long and two and one- half inches wide, bevelled on the long edge (Fig. 99) ; these you can easily make yourself from any kind of wood. ii 1 62 Summer. One pound of Macreme cord number twenty-four, or ham- mock twine of the same number, which can be had for less than Lx:> thirty cents ; color- Lx " xP " ed cord comes five cents extra. Wind the cord in balls, as it is then more convenient to handle, and begin making your ham- mock. First, thread the needle by taking it in the left hand and using the thumb to hold the end of the cord in place, while looping it over the tongue (Fig. 100) ; pass the cord down under the needle to the opposite side and catch it over the tongue ; repeat this until the needle is full. Next, make a loop of a piece of cord two yards long and fasten this to any suitable place (Fig. lOl) a door-knob will do very well ; then tie the cord on your needle three inches from the end to this loop. Place How to Make a Hammock. i6 3 the small fid under the cord, the bevelled edge close to the loop (Fig. 102). With your thumb on the cord to hold it in place while you pass the needle around the fid, and with its point toward you, pass it through the loop from the top, bringing it over the fid, so forming the first half of the knot (Fig. 103). Pull this taut, holding it in place with your thumb while throwing the cord over your hand, which forms the loop as in (Fig. 104). Then pass the needle from under through the loops, drawing ij tight to fasten the knot. Hold it in place with your thumb, and repeat the op? eration for the next knot. Fig. 105 shows a number of these knots fin, ished. A is a loosened knot, making plain its construction. B, in Figs. 103, 104, and 105, is the cord running to the needle, and D is the fid. When thirty meshes are finished shove them off the fid (Fig. 106), as this number will make the hammock sufficient- ly wide. Commence the next row by again placing the fid under the cord, and take up the first mesh, drawing it close to the fid ; hold it in place with your thumb while throwing the cord over your hand ; pass the needle on the lef hand-side of the mesh from under through the loop throwr over your hand (Fig. 107) ; pull this tight and you will Fig. 106. Meshes. Fig. 107. Commencing the Second Row. 164 Summer. Fig. 108. Fisherman's Knot. tied the common knitting-knot ; proceed in like manner with all the loops in rotation until the row is finished. When it is necessary to thread or fill your needle, tie the ends of the cord with the fisher- man's knot shown in Fig. 108, which cannot slip when properly tightened. Wrap each end of the cord from the knot securely to the main cord with strong thread to give a neat appearance to the hammock. Continue knitting until thirty rows are finished. Then use the large fid, knit- ting one row on the short side first, next one on the long side. This accomplished, knit the meshes to the ring by passing the needle through it from the top, knitting them to the ring in rotation as if they were on the mesh-stick or fid (Fig. 109). When finished tie the string securely to the ring, and one end of your hammock is finished. Cut the loop on which first row was knitted, and draw it through the knots. Tie the end of the cord on your needle to the same piece used in fastening the end of the first needleful to the loop (Fig. no), and knit the long meshes to the other ring as described. This com- pleted, the hammock is finished. the On the Ring. How to Make a Hammock. 165 To swing it, secure two pieces of strong rope and fasten them firmly to the iron rings, the length of the rope depend- ing upon the space between the two points from which you wish it to hang. These should be if possible twelve or fifteen feet apart and at least ten feet high, to give your hammock sufficient room to swing freely. This suspended bed will furnish a welcome retreat when the weather is too warm to admit of games, walks, or other amuse- ments. Then, with some favorite book, or if even reading is" too much of an exertion, simply to lie indolently in the ham- mock is a comfort, so restful and quiet that the time quickly passes, and we are made better and brighter for our short, pas- sive repose. Very decorative nets, and useful ones of many kinds, includ- ing fish-nets and minnow-seines, are made with the same stitch as that used in the hammock. The size of the mesh is regu- lated by the circumference of the fid, and the twine used is fine or coarse, according to the style of net desired. Barrel Hammock. When in the Catskills last summer the writer saw for the first time a hammock made of a barrel. It was painted red and looked very cheery and inviting hanging under the green boughs ; the two colors, being complementary, harmonized beautifully. This hammock was made of a piece of strong rope twenty feet long threaded in and out of barrel staves, and was sub- stantial and durable. The construction of such a hammock is very simple. Remove the top and bottom hoops and nails from a firm, clean barrel. Then before taking off the remain- ing hoops draw a pencil-line around both ends of the barrel, being careful to have the marking three inches from and parallel i66 Summer. to the edges ; this is for a guide when making the two holes in each end of all the staves. Bore the holes with a five- eighth of an inch au- gur or a red-hot poker, using the pencil-line as a centre ; leave an equal margin on both sides of the staves, and at the same time enough space in the centre to preclude all danger of breakage. Fasten the staves to- gether by threading the rope through the hole from the out- How to Make a Hammock. i6 7 side of the first stave, then across the inside of the stave down through the other hole (see illustration). Continue threading until one side is finished, then in like manner thread the other side. Knock off the remaining hoops and the staves will ap- pear as shown at bottom of illustration. Tie the two ends of the rope together and fasten loops of rope on both ends ; these should be of sufficient length to conveniently swing the ham- mock. When threading the staves let the rope be loose enough to leave a space of an inch or so between each stave when the barrel is spread out in the form of a hammock. In this way you can have a serviceable hammock, the cost of which will be about twenty-five cents and a little labor. Grandmamma's Dolls. CHAPTER XV. (FOR LITTLE GIRLS.) CORN-HUSK AND FLOWER DOLLS. such beautiful dolls as delight the hearts of the children of to-day, ever peeped forth from the Christmas-stockings of our grandmothers or great-grand- mothers when they were little girls. In those times there were not, as there are now, thousands of people doing nothing but making toys for the entertainment and pleas- ure of the little ones, and the motherly little hearts were fain to content themselves with lavishing unlimited af- fection and care upon a rag, wooden, or corn-husk baby, made and dressed at home. Since then almost every child tired of, and surfeited with handsome and expensive toys, has been glad at times to get grandma to make for her a real old-fash- ioned dollie which might be hugged in rapturous moments of affection without fear of dislocating some of its numerous joints, or putting out of order its speaking or crying apparatus ; iyo Summer. and might in times of forgetfulness be dropped on the floor and suffer no injury thereby. Such a doll is just the kind to adopt for the summer. The fine French doll with its delicate wax or china face, silky hair, and dainty toilets, is more suited to the elegances of the parlor than to the wear and tear of out-door life, and everyone knows that summer holidays spent in the country are far too precious to be wasted taking care of anyone's complexion, let alone a doll's ; so it is best to leave the city doll in her city home, safe out of harm's way, and manufacture, from materials to be found in the country, one more suited to country surroundings. Corn -husks, corn-cobs, and ordinary garden flowers can be made into dolls which, although not quite so pretty nor so shapely as those pro- duced from more costly ma- terial, yet possess a charm of their own which the children are not slow to perceive. Little Indian girls, to whom store babies are unknown, make the most complete and durable corn-husk dolls, and the following directions tell just how to construct them : Provide yourself with the husks of sev- eral large ears of corn, and from among them select the soft white ones which grow closest to the ear. Place the stiff ends of two husks together, fold a long, soft husk in a lengthwise strip, and wind it around the ends so placed as in Fig. in. Select Head Commenced. The Corn Husk, Corn-husk and Flower Dolls. 171 the softest and widest husk you can find, fold it across the cen- tre and place a piece of strong thread through it (as in Fig. 112), draw it in, tie it se- curely (Fig. 113), place it entirely over the husks you have wound, then bring it down smoothly and tie with thread under- neath (Fig. 1 14) ; this will form the head and neck. To make the arms, divide the husks be- low the neck in two equal parts, fold together two or more husks and ins e r t them in the divis- ion (Fig. 115). Hold the arms in place with one hand, while with the other you fold alternately over each shoulder several layers of husks, al- lowing them to extend down the front and back. When the little Oorn-hu'sk Tied. Head Finished. f rm SCemS P lum P enough, USC your best husks for the topmost layers and wrap the waist with strong thread, tying it securely (Fig. 116). Next divide the husks below the waist and make /70.7/ef Head and Arms. 172 Summer. the legs by neatly wrapping each portion with thread, trim- ming them off evenly at the feet. Finally, twist the arms once or twice, tie, and trim them off at the hands. The features can be drawn on the face with pen and ink, or may be formed of small thorns from the rose-bush. Fig. 117 shows the doll complete, minus its costume, which may be of almost any style or material, from the pretty robe of a civilized lady to the more /?>. / Vff Head, Arms, and Body Finished Doll, scanty garments of its originator, the Indian. The doll is rep- resented in full Indian costume in Fig. 118. The war-paint and tomahawk are not necessary here, as he is smoking a pipe of peace. His apparel is composed of one garment, which is cut from a broad, soft corn-husk, after the pattern given in Fig. 1 19. A narrow strip of husk tied about his waist forms the belt. His head-dress is made of small chicken feathers stuck at Corn-husk and Flower Dolls. regular intervals into a strip of husk. The corn-silk hair is placed on his head, and on top of that one end of the head- dress is fastened with a thorn. A small twig is used for the stem of his pipe, and two rose- bush thorns form the bowl. Instead of using a thorn for his A Real Indian Doll. fly. 119 The Indian's Dress. mouth, a round hole is punched in the face and the stem of the pipe inserted. Mary Jane. Here is another way of making a doll which is very easy and simple. First find a young ear of corn, one on which the silk has not turned brown ; then with a crab-apple for a head and a leaf of the corn to dress her with, you have your material. 12 174 Summer. Cut off squarely that end of the ear where the husks are puck- ered, to join the stalk, and carefully take the silk from the other end, disturbing as little as possible the closely wrapped husks. Roll part of the leaf (as indicated in Fig. 120) for the arms, then with a small twig fasten the head to the arms ; stick the Material and Parts of Doll. Mary Jane. other end of the twig into the small end of the corn-cob, and the doll is ready for dressing. Her bonnet is made of the leaf just where it joins the stalk (Fig. 1 21), and is fastened to her head with a thorn. Before adjusting the bonnet, however, the silk must be placed on the head to form the hair. Corn-husk and Flower Dolls. Make the scarf of part of the leaf (Fig. 122), fold it around the shoulders, and secure it with thorns. The features also are made of thorns. When her toilet is complete, you can but acknowledge that this rosy-cheeked little maid, peeping from beneath her poke- bonnet, is very cunning indeed. Flower Dolls. The flower lady with the baby is made of a yellow gourd flower ; the small gourd attached, which has just begun to 18SC. form, serves for her head ; a green gourd leaf is used for her shawl, and her bonnet is made of a smaller leaf folded to fit her head. The baby is a white gourd bud, with a cap made of a 176 Summer. leaf. A small twig stuck through part of the lady's shawl, through the baby, and into the lady doll, holds the child in place and makes it appear as though clasped in the mother's arms. The features of both dolls are scratched on with a pin and then inked. To make the lady stand erect, a small twig is stuck into the heart of the flower, and the other end into the top of a small paste-board-box lid. The other flower doll is made of the common garden flowers. The underskirt is a petunia ; a Canterbury-bell forms the over- skirt and waist; small twigs, or broom-straws stuck through buds of the phlox, are the arms, and the head is a daisy with the petals cut off to look like a bonnet. The features are made with pen and ink on the yellow centre. A reversed daisy forms the parasol. If the flowers named are not at hand, those of a similar shape will answer just as well. Gaily dressed little ladies can be made of the brilliantly tinted hollyhocks, and many other flowers can also be trans- formed into these pretty though perishable dolls. CHAPTER XVI. HOW TO MAKE A FAN. " That graceful toy whose moving play With gentle gales relieves the sultry day." FAN is only a pretty trifle, yet it has been made rather an important one. To man- age a fan gracefully was some time ago considered very es- sential by fair dames of soci- ety, and in the dainty hand of many a famous beauty it has played a conspicuous part. Queen Elizabeth regarded it with so much favor that she was called the " Patron of Fans," and she made a rule that no present save a fan should be accepted by English queens from their subjects. Although held in such high esteem, it is only since the in- flux of any and every thing Japanese that we have had fans in such profusion, and have discovered how effective they are when used for decorative purposes. A brilliantly tinted fan is of equal value in giving just the right touch of color to a costume or the decorations of a room, and this chapter will show how the girls can make the fans i 7 8 Summer. themselves, and have for use or for the adornment of their rooms those of various shapes, sizes, and colors. The first fan represented here is made in the form of a butterfly. The principal articles necessary for its manufacture are a strip of smooth, brown wrapping- paper, stiff enough to keep its folds, and two sticks for handles. The rib- bon which, in the illustration, ties the handles together looks pretty, but is not indispensable ; an elastic band, or one made of nar- row ribbon, slipped over the sticks will do as well. The paper must be twenty-eight inches long and five and one-half inches wide. In order to fold it evenly it should be ruled across with lines one-half inch apart, as shown in diagram of butterfly (page 179). When the paper is pre- pared the pattern can be copied from the diagram, which is Butterfly Fan. How to Make a Fan. 179 half of the butterfly. By counting the lines and using them as guides for obtaining the proportions, an exact reproduction of Diagram of one-half of Butterfly Fan. this pattern can be made. The outlines being drawn, the paper must be plaited, one fold on top of another, until twenty-seven plaits have been laid. Smoothing out the paper again, the butterfly should be painted with water-colors in flat, even tints. The lower part of diagram is the body of the insect and is of a light- brown color, also the space just be- low the head, which is surrounded by a strip of black. The head and eyes are black, the eyes having a half-circle of white to separate them from the head. The main part of the wings Folded Flg- 123 ' 125 ~ Handle. 180 Sztnimer. are a brownish purple, next to which comes a border of very dark purple with light-blue spots. The outer border is light yellow. When the paint is quite dry the extra paper at the top of the butterfly is to be cut away. Again the fan must be plaited in the folds already formed, and the plaits fastened to- gether at one end with a strong needle and thread, as shown in dia- gram (Fig. 123). Fig. 124 shows the shape of the handles, two of which are re- quired ; they should be about nine inches long, one-third _ The Mikado Fan. of an inch wide, and one-eighth of an inch thick. A handle must be glued to the last fold at each end of the fan (see Fig. 125). The fan should be kept closed until the glue is dry, when it may be opened and used at pleasure. Our next sketch is that of the Mikado fan, and represents a Japanese lady who, with her fan held aloft, is making a bow- ing salutation. This fan is made of the same paper as that used for the but- terfly, and is cut the same width ; there are, however, twenty- How to Make a Fan. 181 nine plaits instead of twenty-seven, as in the other. The dia- gram gives the pattern in two parts, and the colors it is to be painted ; the face and hands should be of a flesh-tint and the features done with black in outline. The directions for put- ting together the butterfly apply as well to the Mikado fan. Pattern of Mikado Fan. The third illustration shows a fan made in the shape of a daisy. Diagram on page 183 shows a section of the pattern. White paper should be used, and it mrst be laid in thirty- four plaits, which will give the flower fifteen whole and two half petals, the half petals being at each end. The tinted part of pattern indicates where it is painted yel- low to form the centre of the daisy. 1 82 Slimmer. For a plain round fan no pattern is needed. It is made simply of a strip of paper, of the width used for the other fans, and has about thirty plaits. When fans of this kind are made of colored paper in solid tints they are very pretty. Pieces of bright, figured wall-paper left from papering a room can be utilized, and quite effective fans be made of them to use for decoration. Another style of fan is represented in our last illustra- tion. It is made of twenty slats of card- board cut after pat- tern Fig. 126. These Daisy Fan. j ... slats are joined to- gether at the top and centre with narrow ribbon passed through the slits cut for it, as shown in Fig. 127. Over the ribbon where it passes through the top slits, on the wrong side of the fan, square pieces of paper are pasted, which hold the ribbon down securely at these points. The paper is pasted only at each end of the ribbon in the middle row. It is best to leave one end of this ribbon loose until the fan is joined at the bottom ; then opening the fan, and drawing the ribbon until it fits the fan smoothly, it can be cut the right length and the loose end fastened down. A ribbon is also used to hold the slats together at the bottom ; a bow at each How to Make a Fan. 183 side keeps them in place (see Fig. 128). When a large fan for decoration is desired, the slats should be about eighteen inches long, two and a half inches wide at the top, and one and a half inch wide at the bottom. The fan may be larger still, in which case it can be used as a screen to set before an empty fire-place. For this purpose the slats have to be two feet Pattern for Dais r Fan - long, four inches wide at the top, and two and a half inches wide at the bottom. The proportions of the slats for a small hand-fan are eight and a half inches long, one and a half inch wide at the top, and one inch wide at the bottom. The large fans should be made of heavier card- board of pasteboard than that used for small- Xq. VS. o o Construction of Cardboard Fan. DD D er ones. Colored cardboard, which can be bought at almost any stationer's, is the best to use, but the slats of ordinary white cardboard may be covered with colored paper if more con venient. 1 84 Summer. These fans may be varied to suit the taste of the girls who make them. Instead of a solid color, one can be made with alternate slats of red and white, blue and yellow, or any other colors that harmo- nize. Another may show all the tints of the rainbow, and for use on the Fourth of July one might dis- play the red, white, and blue. Some will look especially handsome if prettily painted. A dark-red fan with a branch of dogwood- blossoms painted across it makes a charming wall dec- oration, as does also one of light blue with pine-branch and cone painted in brown or black. A gilt fan lightens up a dusky corner beautifully ; it can be curved around to fit the place, and catching and reflecting the light at all angles, as it does, it is quite effective. Cardboard Tan. CHAPTER XVII. ALL-HALLOW-EVE. A D I A N T and beautiful October, whose changing color heralds the approach of win- ter, gives us our first autumn holiday, if Halloween can now be called a holiday. Before the Christian era, in the days of the ancient Celts and their priests, the Druids, the eve of the first of November was the time for one of the three principal festivals of the year. The first of May was celebrated for the sowing ; the solstice on the twenty-first of June for the ripening, and the eve of the first of November for the harvesting. At each of these festivals great fires were built on the hill-tops in honor of the sun, which the people worshipped. When Christianity took the place of the heathen religion, the Church, instead of forbidding the cele- bration of these days, gave them different meanings, and in this way the ancient harvest-festival of the Celts became All- Hallow-Eve, or the eve of All-Saints-Day, the first day of No- vember having been dedicated to all of the saints. For a long while most of the old customs of these holidays were retained; then, although new ceremonies were gradually introduced, Hallow-Eve remained the night of the year for wild, mysterious, and superstitious rites. Fairies and all supernat- ural beings were believed to be abroad at this time, and to exercise more than their usual power over earthly mortals. Be- cause the fairy folk were believed to be so near us on Hallow- Kaling. A II- Hallow- Rue. 1 89 een, it was considered the best evening of the season for the practice of magic, and the customs observed on this night be- came mostly those of divination, by the aid of which it was thought the future might be read. Before proceeding further with this subject we desire our readers to appreciate and fully understand that we are far from wishing to inculcate any superstitious belief in the power of charms to forecast future events; that we regard all fortune- telling as nonsense, pure and simple, and only insert it here, as we would any other game, for the sake of the amusement it affords. Although, to make our descriptions more intelligible, we announce the results of charms as facts, we would not have it understood that they are to be taken as such. Nowadays, so practical has the world become, no fairy, witch, or geni could we conjure up, were we to practice all the charms -and spells ever known to soothsayer or seer. Our busy, common-sense age allows no fairies to interfere with its concerns, and these creatures, who existed only in the belief of the people, must needs vanish, to return no more, when that belief is gone. A few fortune-telling gimes are all that now remain of the weird ceremonies that once constituted the rites of Halloween, and the spirit of this old heathen holiday is once more changed, for it is now considered only an occasion for fun and frolic. It was the custom for quite a number of years of some friends of the writer to give a Halloween party on each recur- ring Halloween ; and merrier, jollier parties than those were, it would not be easy to devise The home which opened wide its hospitable doors to the favored few on this night is a country- house, large and spacious ; there is a basement under the whole lower floor, which is divided into kitchen, laundry, and various store-rooms intersected with passages, and this basement, de- serted by the servants, was given up to the use of the Hallow- een revellers. The rooms and passage-ways were decorated 1 90 Autumn. with and lighted by Chinese lanterns, which produced a sub< dued glow in their immediate vicinity, but left mysterious shadows in nooks and corners. Putting aside conventionality and dignity as we laid aside our wraps, ready for any fun or mischief that might be on hand, we proceeded down-stairs and into the kitchen, where a large pot of candy was found bubbling over the fire. This candy, poured into plates half-full of nuts, was eaten at inter- vals during the evening, and served to keep up the spirits of those who were inclined to be cast down by the less pleasing of Fortune's decrees. With plenty of room and no fear of breaking or destroying anything, which is apt to put a check upon frolics in the parlor, the company could give full vent to their high spirits. Now in this room, now in that, again flitting through the dim passages and around dark corners, each person seemed to be everywhere at once, and although the party was limited to about twenty-five, there appeared to be at least twice that number present. Bursts of merry laughter and little screams of pretended terror would announce, now and then, that some charm was being gone through with and someone's fort- une being told. All sorts of games were played, and the va- riety of our entertainment made the evening pass very quickly. All too soon the hands of the kitchen clock warned the guests that to reach home at a seasonable hour they must put an end to their Halloween festivities. A number of the following methods of telling fortunes were tried at these parties, one might say with success, for we certainly succeeded in accom- plishing our main object, which was, to have a good time. By Melted Lead we used to ascertain what the occupation of one's future hus- band would be. The fortune is told in this way : Each girl, in - Hallow- Eve. 191' turn, holds a door-key in one hand, while with the other hand she pours the melted lead, from an iron spoon or ladle, through the handle of the key into a pan of cold water. In the fanciful shapes the lead assumes can be traced resem- blances to all sorts of things. Sometim es it is a sword or gun, which indicates that a soldier will win the fair prize ; again, traces of a ship may be seen : then favored one is to be a sail- plough suggests a farmer ; a book, a professor, or perhaps a min- ister; and when the lead forms only drops, it seems to mean that the gentle in- quirer will not 192 Autumn. marry, or if she does, her husband will be of no profes- sion. Nutshell Boats foretell in a general way what their owner's future life will be. They should be prepared beforehand in this manner : Split an English walnut directly in half, remove the kernel, and clear away any of the partitions which may remain in the shell ; then place a short piece of heavy cotton string in the shell and pour around it melted beeswax. Mould the wax into a cone shape around the string, as shown in Fig. 129, allowing the end to come out at the top. Fig. 130 shows what it is like when finished. The tapers first being lighted, several of these little craft are launched at the same time, by their respective owners, upon the sea of life, or, in other words, in a tub of water. When a light burns steadily until the wax is all melted, and the frail bark safely rides the waves (which are occa- sioned by stirring the water with a stick, or shaking the tub from side to side), a happy life is predicted, and a long one. When two boats come in contact, it means that their owners will meet and have mutual interests some time during their lives. If one boat crosses another's path, it denotes that their owners will do the same. If two boats come together and continue to sail about side by side, their owners will in some way pass much of their lives together. When a boat clings closely to the sides of the tub, refusing to sail out into the centre, it shows that its owner will be a stay- at-home. A II- Hallow-Eve. 193 Touching often at the side of the tub is indicative of short voyages ; and extended travel is predicted when a boat seldom, touches the tub. It depends a good deal upon the fancy and imagination of those testing their fate how the antics of the little fleet are in- terpreted, and the meanings given to the movements of the boats create no end of fun. " Three Luggies." * " In order, on the clean hearth-stane, The luggies three are ranged, And ev'ry time great care is ta'en To see them duly changed." The three bowls, or dishes, one containing clear water, one milky, and the other nothing at all, are placed in a row on the hearth-stone or table, and the girl wishing to try her fortune is blindfolded and led up to where the dishes stand. She is then told to put her left hand into one of the bowls. If she dips her fingers in the clear water, she will marry a bachelor ; if in the milky water, a widower ; and if into the empty bowl, it is a sure sign that she will live in single blessedness all her days. This ceremony must be gone through with three times, and the hand be dipped twice in the same bowl, in order to make the prediction of any value. Roasting Nuts is the charm by which the friendship of anyone may be tested. The applicant for knowledge on this point names two nuts, one for her friend and the other for herself, and then places them side by side upon the grate, or a shovel held over the fire. If they burn quietly, it is prophetic of a long and happy friend-. * Dishes. 194 Autumn. ship kept up by both parties ; but if in roasting they burst with a loud report and fly apart, they are decidedly uncongenial, and should not seek much intercourse. The movements of the nuts while heating are closely watched, for the tempers of the persons for whom they are named is said to be thus revealed. Kaling is a mode of telling one's fortune not as well known, perhaps, as the foregoing methods. The ceremony is carried out in the following manner : Two girls are blindfolded and started off on the path to the kitchen-garden and cabbage-patch, where each pulls up the first stalk she finds. They then return at once to the house, where the bandages are removed and the mysterious stalks examined. According to the state of the stalk, so will be the gatherer's fate. If it is straight or crooked, large or small, so will the future husband be ; if it has a pleasant taste, or the reverse, the character of the person will correspond, and the quan- tity of earth clinging to the roots denotes whether their riches will be little or great. When there are no cabbages at hand, almost any other gar- den vegetable will answer ; and if there be objections to going out-of-doors, vegetables of various kinds, such as turnips, beets, and parsnips, may be placed on a table, and the persons blind- folded can choose from them. No doubt the charm will work as well with the plants upon a table as when they are pulled from a kitchen-garden. The Magic Mirror, which is simply a hand-glass on ordinary occasions, and gains its mysterious power only on Halloween, divulges, under certain conditions, the delightful secret of how many bits of good-fort- une will fall to one's share during the ensuing year. The con- A II- Hallow- Eve. 195 ditions are that the person wishing to know how bright hei prospects are shall go to an open window or door from which the moon is visible, and, standing with her face in-doors, hold her mirror so that the moon will be reflected in it. The num ber of moons she sees there betokens the number of times some- thing pleasant will happen to her before the advent of another Halloween. Three Tin Cups partially filled with water are balanced on the small ends of three funnels, which are placed in a row on the floor, about two feet apart. Over these cups, one after another, each member of the party must leap in turn. Whoever succeeds in leaping over all three cups without knocking any of them off will make an early marriage. The person who knocks over one will marry when not so young. The marriage of the one who tips over two cups will be deferred until late in life, and she who leaps none of them safely will not be married at all. To guard against wet feet very little water should be put in the cups only enough to make the players careful about tipping them over. The Ring Cake is always an object of interest at Halloween parties. The cake itself is made like the ordinary kind, but before it is baked a plain gold ring is hidden in the dough, not to be taken out until the cake is cut and it falls to the share of the fortunate person in whose slice it happens to be found. The ring is sometimes put in a flour-cake, which is simply flour packed into a cake-mould so firmly that when it is turned out it retains the shape of the mould and can be sliced off with a knife. Each member of the party cuts her or his own section of flour, and whoever secures the ring, it is confidently stated, will be the first of the group to marry. 196 Autumn, Some Halloween games apparently have no particular meaning attached to them, but seem to be devised for the pur- pose of creating as much fun as possible. Bobbing for Apples is, perhaps, familiar to most of our readers, but we give a de* scription of it here for the benefit of the few who may not know the game so well. In a large, tub full of fresh, cold water several apples are placed, and it is the object of the participators to take them out of the water with their teeth. As the rosy-cheeked, tempting fruit bobs about within easy reach, it looks simple enough to secure a prize ; but the apples are so round and slippery, so aggravatingly illusive, that, unless you thrust your head and neck beneath the cold water, regard- less of consequences, and drive an apple to the bottom, the feat cannot be accomplished. The girls can seldom be induced to try their luck in this game, but usually content themselves with looking on, immensely enjoying the frantic endeavors of the boys to succeed at any cost. The Apple and Candle Game is another favorite sport for Halloween, and is played as follows : From the ceiling is suspended a stout cord, the lower end of which is securely tied to the centre of a stick about a foot and a half long. On one end of the stick is fastened an apple, on the other a lighted candle. The string is set in motion, swing- ing back and forth like a pendulum, and the contestants for the prize stand ready, each in turn, to make a grab for the apple^ which must be caught in the teeth before it can be won. Fre- quently the candle is caught instead of the apple, which mishap sends the spectators off into shouts of merriment ; but although funny, it is at the same time a little dangerous to catch a lighted All-Hallow-Eve. 1 97 candle in one's teeth, and we would suggest that a bag made of cheese-cloth, or like thin material, be filled with flour and tied to jthe stick in place of the candle. When the person essaying to snatch the fruit is struck in the face with the bag, and is .covered with flour instead of the glory anticipated, as much mirth will result as can possibly arise when the old and danger- ous practice of using a candle is clung to. The Ghostly Fire should not be lit unless all of the party have strong nerves, for the light it produces is rather unearthly, and may affect some members unpleasantly. We, at our Halloween parties, never omitted this rite, however, its very weirdness proving its strong- est attraction. Salt and alcohol were put in a dish, with a few raisins, and set on fire. As soon as the flame leaped up we clasped hands and gayly danced around the table, upon which burned our mystic fire. The laughing eyes and lips looked in strange contrast to the pale faces of their owners, from which the greenish light had taken every vestige of color. The dance was not prolonged, for it was our duty, before the fire was. spent, to snatch from the flames the raisins we had put in the dish. This can be done, if one is careful, without as much as scorching the fingers, and I never knew of anyone burning themselves while making the attempt. Trying for a Raisin is a very laughable performance. The raisin, which must be a good-sized one, is strung on and pushed exactly to the middle of a soft cotton string about one yard long. Two aspirants for the prize then take each an end of the string, which they put in their mouths and commence to chew, taking it up as fast as they can the raisin falling to the share of the person who suc- ceeds in reaching it first. 198 Autumn. A Lighted Candle is again used in a game which is exceedingly amusing. The candle is placed upon a table in full view of everyone ; then one of the players is blindfolded, turned around several times, and set free to seek for the candle and blow out the light, if possible. To see girls, with their hands clasped behind them, going crazily about the room, blowing at anything and everything, is very ludicrous. They seldom find the candle, and even when the table is reached it is difficult to blow in such a direction as to extinguish the flame. The Fairy's Gifts are suggested as a new and original ending of a Halloween frolic. The Fairy Godmother, in Mother Hubbard costume, carries a large basket under her cloak or shawl. She enters the room and announces that she has a certain number of gifts which she proposes to distribute among the company. After cautioning all that the contents must be kept secret, she passes to each per- son a folded paper. On one is written " Wealth" on another "Honor" on the third "Fame" etc., and some of the papers are left blank. Those whose papers contain the names of gifts are then blindfolded, preparatory to receiving their behests. The first is led up and made to kneel before the Fairy God- mother, to whom she repeats these words : Most gracious Fairy, the gift you give I shall treasure and keep as long as I live. Then the paper containing the name of the gift is handed the Fairy, who reads it aloud very solemnly : " Wealth " and, turn- ing to her basket, she takes from it a new dust-pan, to which is attached a ribbpn-loop, at the same time reciting these lines : A II- Hallow- Eve. 199 Your choice is bad when you intrust Your happiness where moth and rust, In time, turn all your wealth to dust. From a paper-bag the Fairy pours a small amount of dust over the kneeling girl, and hangs the dust-pan around her neck. The next person who has drawn a prize is then brought for- ward and the performance is repeated, only altering the Fairy's speech. For "Honor" she will say: Your honor, crowds shall loud declare, But in your heart, no crowd is there, You'll find, like Falstaff, " honor's air." The present here is a pair of bellows, from which the Fairy blows a blast on the bowed head before her as she utters the word air. The bellows, like the dust-pan, are hung by a ribbon around the recipient's neck. For "Fame" the Fairy gives a wreath of roses, and says, as she adjusts the crown : When Fame doth weave a laurel-wreath, He weaves this subtle charm beneath ; " For every evil thought that's born The laurel grows a prickly thorn ; But where pure thought and love reposes, The laurel-wreath's a wreath of roses." Buckefe Portiere. CHAPTER XVIII. NATURE'S FALL DECORA- TIONS, AND HOW TO USE THEM. HESE beautiful decorations are free to all who care to possess them. Every autumn comes to us laden with orna- ments which no skilled workman can rival. The graceful golden-rod, so rich in color, sways and bends over the low stone walls, and in the fields wild flowers of all kinds grow in great profusion. White, spreading wild carrot, yellow and white dai- sies, light and dark purple asters, and sumach, with its varied hues, give color to the landscape on our bright fall days. There are also the queer-shaped pods and feathery, silky seeds peculiar to some wild plants ; among others the poor "vagabond thistle," which has donned its robe of glistening white, although some of its tribe still wear their faded purple gowns. The latter may be gathered for thistle-pufts, : and all the objects mentioned can be used in home decorations. We cannot pass by unnoticed the brown milk-weed pods, for within the shells, full well we know, are hidden the silvery, downy seeds which make such pretty milk-weed balls. Here, too, we notice the rich coloring of bark as well as foliage, the bright scarlet berries contrasting with the brown, yellow, and green leaves. The vine, once a fresh green, is now changed t<3 2O2 Autumn. deep crimson ; even the tiny leaves of the wild strawberry and some grasses have touches of red on their edges. How the rich coloring of autumn differs from the delicate tints of spring, when the promise was made in bud and leaf, which is now realized in the bountiful harvests ! Having such a wealth to glean from, we scarcely know what to take first ; but for decorations to last only a few hours it would be difficult to imagine anything more brilliantly appropriate than Fresh Autumn Wild Flowers and small branches of brilliant fall leaves. At the time of this writing wild flowers are very popular ; one of our daily papers records a wedding which recently took place, where the display of wild flowers was beautiful in the extreme. Curtains of wood- ferns were caught back with golden-rod, and a bower of holly and oak was fringed with clusters of scarlet bitter-sweet berries. Daisies were also used in abundance, while the beauty of the little church was enhanced by the masses of white blossoms and oak-branches. This idea can be used advantageously in decorating the house for evening parties and receptions, or afternoon teas and coffees. Have the flowers and foliage in masses, the effect is much better ; and if you gather very large, hardy ferns with their roots attached they will make exceedingly graceful decorations, and placed in water or wet sand they will remain fresh for days. When golden-rod is gathered in its prime it will keep nearly all winter without fading. Do not put it in water ; all that is necessary is to keep it dry. The rich brown cat-tails should be treated in the same manner ; these must be gathered at their best, before they are too ripe. Bitter-sweet berries will last for months and retain a bright red. The old-fashioned honesty, with its white, satiny pods, keeps perfectly for any length of Nature s Fall Decorations. 203 time. The wild rose-bush in the fall is decked with seed- coverings, which closely resemble scarlet berries; these will last for many weeks. The wild clematis, with its festoons of hazy fluff, will keep for a long time, and always looks well when thrown over and on the top corner of a portiere and allowed to hang nat- urally down a little on one side, or arranged in a similar manner over the tops of windows, doors, pictures, or wherever it will look graceful. It should hang out of harm's way, as it is brittle and easily broken when dry. For entertainments, the more elab- orate and bountiful the decorations of fresh M.^i %, wild flowers the more beautiful will the house appear ; but for every-day life during the cold weather, when we have only the dried fall plants, we may almost make up for the lack of fresh flowers by using judg- ment and taste in arranging the dried ones. Though wild flowers r**" A Young Decorator. 2.o4 Autumn. are beautiful, you must use taste in their arrangement and not mingle them together promiscuously, but make a judicious se- lection, for where a light bunch of golden-rod would be the very thing needed to give color to a particular spot, should the dark cat- tails be placed there the effect might be lost. There are places where some high, stiff decoration would look best, and others where the soft, swaying clematis seems to be- long. As with everything else, so with our decorations, we must seek to have harmony. Who has not admired the dark-brown, glossy buckeyes and Horse-chestnuts, and wondered what use could be made of them ? Children love to gather them and come home with their pock- ets and baskets full, only to play with them for awhile, and then the pretty dark balls, each marked with a spot of light cream-color, are thrown away or lost. Now, the next time the buckeyes are collected save every one and make a Buckeye Portiere. The writer assures you that you will find it much easier to do this than she did to make a picture of the curtain, for it is diffi- 'cult with a pen-and-ink drawing to give an idea of the richness of color in the handsome hangings these horse-chestnuts make when. properly fashioned into a portiere for hall or doorway. Two full bushels of buckeyes will be needed to make a curtain two yards and a half long and one yard and a quarter wide. Take a very large, long needle and a strong, waxed thread a little longer than you desire to have your curtain, make a large knot in the end of the thread, and commence to string your buckeyes in the same way as stringing beads or buttons. Continue until the thread in the needle is exhausted, then tie the thread in a large knot close to the last buckeye, leaving a length of three inches of thread. Make your other strands in Natures Fall Decorations. 205 the same way. When all are finished, fasten as many small Bcrew-eyes in a straight line on a curtain-pole, or a rustic pole, if desired, as there are strands of buckeyes, and tie securely to each screw-eye one string of buckeyes. When all are fastened Birch-Bark Support for Pole. on, your portiere is finished and ready to be hung. This is easily accomplished if the pole used is a regular curtain-pole, as they always come with brackets ; but should your pole be rustic, it must be supported by bands of strong birch-bark, or leather, as in Fig. 131. Our illustration shows over the portiere a Panel of Fall Decorations. These also look handsome over windows and doors, and you are at liberty to use ornaments of all styles, for the panels are placed where there is no danger of anything coming in contact with them to break off the decorations or mar their beauty. Any kind of board will do for the panel, rough or smooth, as you like. Paint the board a pure white, then decide on your ornaments, which may be a chestnut-branch with bursting burs attached, sprays of common wayside velvet-leaf with clusters of pods clinging to them, a piece of black-berry vine with its twigs, thorns, and dried berries, or branches of buckeyes with some of the nuts falling from their horned shells. Select according to your fancy, and gild the decorations chosen, then tack them on the panel. It is best to place the ornaments on the board while the paint is soft and wet, for then it will help to fasten the decoration more securely ; if the paint be put on thick where the ornaments are to be placed, they will 2O6 Autumn. lie partially embedded in the paint, and when it dries they will appear as if carved from the wood.* A white and gold panel made in this way is very pretty and inexpensive. The fall decorations also enable us to make a very effective Louis Quinze Screen. For this it is necessary to have two small wooden hoops, such as children roll along the streets ; fasten these together with a strong piece of white tape, two or three inches wide, cut the end of the tape bias, tack this on the side of one of the hoops, bring it around between and over the other hoop, and tack it again, repeat the opera- tion and the hinge will be finished (Fig. 132). If you look at the hinge on a wooden clothes-horse you will understand how to make one. Fig. 133 shows the hoops fastened togeth- er. Now cut two pieces of coarse, strong cotton cloth, a little larger around than the hoops, and place one of the pieces smoothly over one of the hoops ; tack it down, driving the tacks in far apart, and so that they can be easily extracted ; if the Hinge for Loui, Quinze I ,en. ^^ wrinkles> keep changing j t . til the surface is perfectly even ; when this is accomplished care- fully tack the covering securely down, keeping it smooth and * For this work the staple-tacks used for tacking down matting will be iound very convenient. Nature s Fall Decorations. 207 without wrinkles. In like manner tack the remaining piece of cloth on the other hoop. Next get four broomsticks and cut a notch on each one, at exactly the same distance from the top, for the hoops to fit in. Then measure where you wish the hoops to be placed and cut another notch on each stick a certain distance from the bottom ; all the sticks must be of the same length and have the notches cut in the same places, so each one may be a duplicate of the others. Mark the hoops where the sticks are to fit, and then fasten them firmly on with small screws. Make Hoops Fastened Together for Louis Quinze Screen. the screen strong, so that there will not be any danger of its coming apart. Give each cloth a sizing of common flour-paste on both sides, then scrape off all the paste with a knife ; in this way the cloth will be starched and prepared to receive the paint. When the screen is thoroughly dry, sew a branch across one of the disks and some waxed fall leaves in the places where they would naturally lie on the branch ; when these are securely at- tached, decorate the other disk with something different ; acorns can be used if cut in halves ; but never place any ornaments on the screen which will not lie flat, for if they stand out they wilJ 208 Autumn. be broken off or injured by persons passing and brushing against them. Now give the screen a coat of white paint all over, includ- ing the branch and leaves, but do not paint the hinge. Set the screen away until it is perfectly dry, then gild the branches and leaves, connecting the latter with the twigs by painting a line of Louis Quinze Screen. gold between the two. Gild a ring around each pole near the top and another near the bottom, and cover the edges of the hoops where the cloth has been fastened on by tacking white gimp around each one, using fancy brass-headed tacks and placing them at equal distances apart ; this completes the orna- mental screen, \ Nature's Fall Decorations. 209 Should you de- sire it, the screen can be painted black or any other color, and the decorations bronzed instead of gilded. The bronzes come in different shades, and the color of real bronze can be easily copied. As an orna- ment for the din- ing-room A Panel of Field-Corn is very decorative and easy to make. When the corn ripens, select some nice, firm, golden ears, with husks and with- out ; then break off pieces of corn- stalk and group them together, as in the illustration; cover a board of 4 210 Autumn. requisite size with a piece of old black velvet ; if you have no velvet, paint the board black, and after tying the corn firmly together, tack it securely on the board, and the dark back- ground will bring out the many yellow tints of the decoration beautifully ; fasten two screw-eyes in the back of the board, by which to attach the wire, and the panel will be ready to hang on the wall. The corn can also be fastened to a rough board of the de- sired size and the panel and decoration bronzed, using green bronze for the background and portions of the group, while all the edges and prominent points should be of copper-colored bronze. Early in November the many varieties of gourds ripen, and their odd and fantastic forms seem like nature's suggestions of the unique in ornamentation. So suggestive are they that it needs but little originality to make them into many useful and beautiful articles. As a decoration for looping over the poles of portieres, and for holding back draperies, these Ornamental Gourds are convenient. They must first be allowed to become perfectly dry ; then they can be made into tasselled festoons. Take six mock-oranges, which imitate so closely our real oranges in color, size, and form, and cut a hole about the size of a silver dime in the top and bottom of each one ; then shake out the seeds. To make the openings in the gourds, first bore a small hole with the point of a large needle, then twist the needle around and around until it will easily pass through. Next, carefully enlarge the opening with a sharp penknife until it is of the stated size. Make a rope two yards and a half long of Persian colored wools or worsted ; on the end fasten a slender tassel, six or seven inches long, made of the same worsted ; now Nature's Fall Decorations. 2 1 1 string one of the bright orange-gourds on the rope down against the tassel, which should be large enough to prevent the gourd from slipping off; make another similar tassel, and attach it to the rope about twelve inches from the first one, and thread an- other gourd on the rope, bringing it down against the second tassel ; proceed in like manner with the remaining gourds, making a tassel for each one, and you will have a decoration unlike any to be found elsewhere. We are all more or less familiar with the Gourd-Dippers so common in the South, where, in olden times, scarcely a spring bubbled in a rustic nook that was not supplied with its drinking- gourd. These dippers are made by sawing an opening in the large part of the gourd, scraping out the contents, and making the inside as smooth as possible with sand-paper. They need no ornamentation. The kind of gourds resembling flattened globes can be made into graceful and unique Bowls. The gourds must be sawed into two parts, with the inside of each sand-papered, and flowers painted, with oil-colors, on the outside. After they have thoroughly dried, give a coat of white varnish to both the inside and outside. A pretty Bonbon-Box can be fashioned of one of these gourds. Saw off the top, which will serve as a lid, and fasten it to the bowl with narrow ribbons tied through holes at the back of each ; line both lid and box with satin by gluing it along the edges with stiff glue put on 212 Autumn. sparingly, and cover the raw edge of the satin with chenille ; this is also put on with a little glue. Do not allow the chenille to interfere with the closing of the box, but place it along the inside edge of the box and lid. Another form is the Bottle-Gourd. Ornament this with ivy-leaves painted as if twined around bowl and neck, and when the paint is dry varnish the gourd all over ; if you wish it for use as well as decoration, saw of? the top about two or three inches deep, shake out the seeds, then fit a cork in the piece cut off, and so glue it in that the cork may extend an inch downward to fit in the bottle. The large egg-shaped gourds look well as Vases. Select a deep-colored gourd, saw off the top and scrape out the inside ; then varnish the vase and mount it on feet of Wire Twisted for Feet of Gourd- Vase. Finished Wire Feet for Gourd- Vase. twisted wire, made according to Fig. 134 ; bend down the feet, as in Fig. 135, when the wire will be formed into Fig. 136. To Nature s Fall Decorations. 213 fasten this on the vase, first bore holes in the bottom of the gourd, then sew the feet firmly on, passing the needle through Ornamental and Useful Gourds. the holes previously made and bending the wire a little to fit to the gourd. Gild the wire feet, and your vase is finished. An- 214 Autumn. other way is to save the top sawed off, fasten an ornament of twisted wire on the top of it, and then, after making the vase as the one just described, add bands of gilded cardboard made to fit the gourd, fastening them to the vase with glue. Handles can also be fashioned of cardboard and sewed to the upper band before it is glued to the vase, as in the illustration. There are many other ways of utilizing gourds, but we will leave it to your ingenuity to think up new and pretty conceits. Pine-cones, large and small, acorns, and balls from the sweet- gum tree, can be used as Small Decorations. Never try to fasten them by the natural stems, for these will soon break off, but place in each one a small screw-eye, and when tied in groups they form ornaments for waste- baskets and fancy baskets of all kinds. We have seen chan- deliers with gilded cones hanging from the different points, and being the identical color of the chandelier, they seemed of the same metal, and added novelty and grace to its appear- ance. There are some varieties of the tree-fungi which make dark, rich-colored Brackets. Use heavy cardboard or thin board as a covering for the back ; have this fit the fungus perfectly, and fasten it securely in position with very stiff glue or nails. Paint the back the same color as the fungus, and on either side of the upper edge place screw-eyes by which to fasten up the bracket. Many of the curiously formed galls and oak-apples to be found on different trees can also be employed as ornaments. Nothing can be finer than our brilliant autumn season, which Nature's Fall Decorations. 215 is said to be more beautiful in this than in other countries, with its crisp mornings and bright sunny afternoons. When the weather is too lovely to remain in-doors, and all nature invites us out, then is the time to gather our fall decora- tions. The Little Brown Squirrel. CHAPTER XIX. NUTTING-PARTIES. FF they go with bright, laughing eyes and glowing cheeks, each one carrying a light little basket or fancy bag slung carelessly on her arm. The girls are full of life and spirits as they walk briskly along toward the woods in the delightful fall weather, talking and laughing in a happy, thoughtless fashion, now telling where the best nuts are to be found, the shortest route to take, or where the prettiest walks lead, and again lingering or stopping to admire the many won- derful beauties of autumn. Leaving the road they enter the woods, where the dry leaves rustle pleasantly beneath their feet, and in some places the gold and brown leaves through which they walk lie ankle-deep. All this is fully enjoyed by the party as they proceed on their way discussing the best place for lunch, which considera- tion is quite important, as it is necessary, if possible, to be near a clear, cool spring ; otherwise the water must be transported. Arriving at the selected spot about noon, all bring forward their baskets and bags to contribute the contents to their " nutting-dinner." Soon the white cloth is laid and the tempt- ing feast spread,, when the hungry but merry maidens gather 218 Autumn. around to relish their repast in the forest, where, all about, are seen sure signs of coming winter. The airy dining-hall is carpeted with the softest moss, and the gorgeous coloring of the surrounding foliage is far more beau- tiful than the most costly tapestry, while the sky forming the roof is of the serenest blue. Now and then the sound of falling nuts is heard as they drop from the trees. This is music in the ears of the girls, and they hurry through their lunch, collect the empty baskets, and are soon busy gathering the glossy brown chestnuts, which are thrashed down from the branches by some of the party, who use long poles for the purpose. Down comes the shower of nuts and burs, and away the party scamper to patiently wait until it is over, as the prickly burs are things to be avoided. Some wise girls have brought tweezers to use in pulling open these thorny coverings. Others have their hands well protected by heavy gloves which cannot easily be penetrated with the bristling spikes. It does not take long to fill their bags, and the one who first succeeds in the feat receives the title of " Little Brown Squirrel." Then all the others, for the rest of the day, obey her wishes. Nor is this difficult, for their Little Brown Squirrel is blithe and gay, generous and kind, and does all in her power to render her subjects happy. As they turn their faces homeward the girls plan for another nutting-party to come off soon, for they wish to make the most of the glorious Indian summer, which belongs, we claim, exclusively to our country, and which may last a week or only a few days. The chestnuts are brought home, where in the evening some are eaten raw, others have the shells slit and are then roasted or boiled, making a sort of chestnut festival, as in the North of Italy, only of course on a very much smaller scale, for there the peasants gather chestnuts all day long and have a merry-making Nutting- Parties. 219 when the sun goes down. This har- vest lasts over three weeks and is a very important one to the dark-eyed Italians, who dry the nuts and grind them to flour, which is used for bread and cakes during the barren season. The harvest in the Apennines is quite an event, as the trees are plentiful, the fruit is good, and the people glad- ly celebrate the season. Our thin, white-shelled shag-bark hickory-nut is peculiarly American, and many a nutting-party have found its delicate and agreeable flavor very welcome when, gathered around a large rock, they crack a few to sam- ple their fruit before returning home. Blossom and Fruit of the Chestnut- Tree. These nuts are only cooked by covering the kernels with hot candy, and thus prepared, they make a delicious sweetmeat. When cracking hickory-nuts, hold each nut firmly by the 22O Autumn. flat sides, bringing uppermost one of the narrow sides ; strike this and the nut will open so that the halves fall out, or may be easily extracted, and occasionally the kernels will come out whole. We have seen quaint little figures, with the heads made of hickory-nuts, the pointed end forming the nose, and the eyes and mouth marked with ink, giving a comical ex- pression to the peaked face. The neat little three-cornered beech-nut is easy and pleasant to gather, making a desirable change for the " nutters " after going for other kinds, and the trees with their beautiful foliage render the scene very attractive. But not more so than do the lofty and stately walnut-trees with their rich, brown fruit en- cased in such rough shells, whose outside covering is so juicy that, unless we are very cautious, it will stain our hands its own dark color. The black-walnut tree (J. nigra) is indigenous to the United States, and we are informed that a celebrated speci- men is still standing at Roslyn, L. L, where the seed was planted in 1/13. The tree measures twenty-five feet ir circum- ference at three feet from the ground. Butter-nuts, so significant during our civil war, also belong to America ; the meat, though quite oily, is sweet and agreeable. Butter-nuts will repay anyone for gathering them, though, like the walnut, the outer husk is apt to stain the fingers; but this may be avoided by wearing gloves while handling the fruit. The cross-sections of the shells, when properly polished, make pretty ornaments. Although we are all fond of the round little hazel-nut, they do not seem to be as plentiful as could be wished, and it is seldom we have the pleasure of going hazel-nutting, yet when the op- portunity occurs, it is rare sport and an event to be talked of afterward. Nuts are to be found in all portions of the country, and the varieties depend upon the section in which you live. n- Parties. 221 Rules for Nutting-Parties. 1. In selecting the members of a nutting-party be careful to choose only those on whom you can safely depend for cheer- fulness, kindly feeling, and a willingness on their part to do all in their power to as- sist, should oc- casion arise, in letting down the bars of a fence, going for water, or any- thing which might happen to re- quire their services. 2. Decide by majority any case of controversy in regard to destination, the best place and way of crossing a brook, which route to take, or in fact any ques- tion concerning the comfort and pleasure of the party, until the "Little Brown Squirrel" wins her title. Then she rules absolutely and settles all questions accord- ing to her best judgment, giving council and friend- ly advice to those Who Pea-Nut Vine and Fruit. ask it. All differences being referred to her, the decision is considered 222 Autumn. final, and the party must obey when their Little Brown Squir- rel directs. 3. The one who gathers the greatest quantity of nuts in a given time wins, and receives the above much-desired title The standard of measure being previously decided upon by the party, the time may be either long or short, as desired. 4. The badge given to the successful competitor may consist of fall leaves or nuts tied with a brown ribbon. This she keeps in remembrance of the delightful day spent nutting in the woods when she was a Little Brown Squirrel. Select, if possible, a day in Indian summer for your nutting- party, and it is well to wear a gown that will not easily tear, catch the dust, or spot not that these accidents are always to be met with on such excursions, but they might happen, and we must be on the safe side, so that no thought or anxiety need be given to the clothing. If your party contemplates a series of nutting-picnics, pro- pose that they shall go for different varieties each time. This will add novelty and zest to the excursions'; and should the distance in some cases be too great for a walk, secure a vehicle with a good reliable driver, and the ride will be particularly enjoyed. This mode of travelling procures another change in the programme, which should be as varied as you can make it. Let the plates for your dinner be of wood or paper, to avoid the necessity of carrying them home. A table-cloth made of large sheets of white paper is a good substitute for damask, and after doing service the paper may be thrown away, leaving your baskets entirely empty to be filled with nuts. There grows a nut, highly prized, that is never gathered by nutting-parties. Nor could they see it if they examined every tree throughout the country. Yet it flourishes in this climate, and may be seen any day at the fruit-stores and corner-stands. The shells of these furnish odd fancies for little trifles made by Nutting- Parties. 223 girlish fingers. Cut in the shape of slippers and glued to a card, they seem suitable for a wood-nymph, and the card is used as a birthday or menu card. Strung together with nee- dle and thread, and dressed in costume with black thread for hair, they make quite a good-looking Japanese. Glued on a twig and marked with ink in representation of the birds, they look not unlike owls perched on a limb. When divided in halves the shells are transformed into tiny boats with tissue-paper sails. This nut boasts of four names: gouber, pin- dar, ground-nut, and the familiar name of pea-nut. CHAPTER XX. HOW TO MAKE A TELEPHONE. ELLO ! Hello ! What is it you say ? You can really make a telephone ? What fun ! How far will it work ? You think it can be heard a long distance ? Very good. Could we manage to construct such a one ? How, pray tell us ? The answer which came back over the line we give in a more concise form, as follows : The best way to make a simple telephone is to procure two round, medium-sized tin baking-powder boxes, and remove the bottoms with a pair of pinchers ; then soak two pieces of Whatman's drawing-paper, or any other strong paper, in a ba- sin of water for a few moments, and when thoroughly wet take them out and place one smoothly over the end of each box. Fasten these down by winding a waxed cotton twine securely over the paper and box, and tying it tightly (Fig. 137). This done, allow the drums to become wholly dry, when they should be firm, even, and without wrinkles. Next cut away that por- tion of the paper which stands out, frill-like, beyond the string, and paste a narrow strip of paper around over the twine (Fig. 138). Wax a piece of string of the desired length, and with a large needle or pin carefully punch a hole in the centre of each drum ; thread one end of the waxed string through one of the holes and make a large knot in the end, then cautiously pull the string until the knot rests on the inside surface of the paper. How to Make a Telephone. 225 Connect the other box to the string in like manner, so that the twine will have a box fastened on each end. The telephone is now ready for use ; and if the distance is short, the line may be stretched taut from point to point. But should the space be great, supports will be needed and loops must be made of the twine and fastened at intervals on trees, corners of the houses, or any available points, with the connecting cord passed through these loops (Fig. 139), which act as supports. Keep the course of the waxed string as straight as possible, and, as far as practi- cable, avoid sharp angles. This style of telephone we know, from personal experience, works perfectly at the distance of fifty yards, and doubtless it will do as well when the line is stretched much farther. Be particular, in selecting the tin 226 Aittmnn. baking-powder boxes, to have them round and even ; if they are old and battered the experiment may not prove satisfactory. We find the telephone very useful and convenient, be- sides affording any amount of amusement and fun ; with its aid we converse w^'h ac- quaintances, even though they be at a distance. The friendly little instrument car- ries the voice all along the slender line to the very ears of our best friend, and we can chat away as freely and almost as easily as if side by side. What a comfort to be able, when seated in your own room, to listen to the voice of some companion, Listening. living perhaps blocks away, and it is such a pleasure, too, to have questions answered immediately, which is impossible in communications made by letter. Nor is this a pleasure to be enjoyed at rare intervals, for as long as the telephone lasts it can be used at any time for a short or long talk, as one may feel inclined. The con- sultations, the plans, the sport, and merriment to be had with the telephone can scarcely be appreciated by one who is not the happy possessor of such an instrument. When the weather will not permit of a walk or a visit, the telephone brings us, if not face to face, at least within speak- ing distance of those to whom we desire to talk. There are many other easy methods of making telephones. They can be manufactured as described without waxing the How to Make a Telephone. 227 string, or the boxes may be used unaltered, in which case the tin bottoms serve as drums, and the holes for the string are made in the centre of each by driving a small tack through. With these instruments the voice cannot be sent a great dis- tance, but when only a short line is needed they succeed very well. More complicated telephones are made with the drums of bladder and the line of soft, flexible wire. Though good and serviceable, they are more difficult to make and require more time and labor. The two beef-bladders used for such a telephone must first be blown up, tied, and left about thirty hours, or until they are stretched, but not dried. When in proper condition, cut off the necks and portion of the ends, then soak them in warm water, and they will become very pliable and light in color. Having pre- viously prepared two square pieces of board by very care- fully cutting out a perfect circle in the centre of each, about as large as a medium- sized pie-pan or a tea-plate, place the bladders smoothly speaking but not tightly over the openings, allowing the outside of the bladder to come on the bottom, and fasten it all around the circle, a little distance 228 Autitmn. from the edge, with tacks so driven in that they may be easily removed. Try the drums with your finger ; if they stretch evenly they are correct, if they wrinkle, change them until they stretch per- fectly smooth. Then tack a piece of firm tape securely around the edge of the circle, and cut off the bladder reaching beyond the tape. Next fasten four feet of soft, flexible wire to a large- sized gutta-percha button by threading it through the two op- posite holes in the centre of the button ; pass the other end of the wire through the middle of the bladder, bringing the button flat against its surface. After attaching a weight of about seven pounds to the end of the wire, place the drum in the sun until perfectly dry. Pro- ceed with the other in the same manner, and when both are well dried, fasten one on each end of the line and attach the drum-wires to the principal wire by loops ; then stretch it firm and tight. This telephone will also need loops for supports, which should be of wire. When the instrument is carefully and properly made it will carry the voice three or four miles or more, giving every word and tone distinctly and clearly. <5 CHAPTER XXI. HOW TO DRAW.* OULD you like to learn to draw, to sketch from nature ? Don't you think that it would be delightful to be able to take out your pencils and paper and copy some scene you want to remember, or produce a likeness of any bird or animal which strikes your fancy ? Many will say, " I'd like it very well, but I can't draw." You can write, can hold a pencil, and trace lines upon the paper ; and if you can do this, you can draw a little. A girl who can learn anything can learn to draw if she will give the same attention to it that she gives to other things. Now we are not going to talk about copying pictures which someone else has already drawn, for there is not much sat- isfaction in making imitations of other -? people's work ; it is much more gratifying to make the original drawings ourselves ; but to do this we need some direction. * The material for this chapter is from an article written by Professor Frank Beard for Harper's Young People. By permission of Harper & Brothers. I 230 Autumn. The reason it is easier to copy a picture than to draw the real object is because the lines to be copied are all laid out on the flat surface of the picture ; but to draw the object we must find out where to trace the lines for ourselves. For instance, suppose we are to draw a flower-pot and plant. If we have the picture before us, we can readily see where all the lines are placed upon the paper, but in viewing a real plant and pot we are apt to become confused in trying to discover the directions and proportions of the lines. How to Draw. 231 Therefore we must learn to see things as they appear, not as they really are. This may seem strange to you, because one is apt to think that a thing must appear as it is ; but let us look into the matter. We will take a square box (Fig. 140). Now, we know that all the sides are the same size, that the top is as large as the side, and that one side is as large as an- other ; but if you try to draw it so, you will find it impossible, because, although you know that the top and sides are the same size as the front, they do not look so, and you draw things as they look, not as they really are. What would our cube look like if we tried to make the sides K and H just like the side I ? Why, like Fig. 141. Don't you see that would be no box at all ? Take another example. We all know that a man's leg is longer than his arm, but it doesn't always appear so. Measure the arms and legs of Fig. 142, and you will see by actual measurement the arms are longer than the legs, and yet it looks right, be- cause the legs are projected toward you ; in other words, the legs are fore shortened. The great secret of drawing from nature is to train the eye to see a real object just like a picture. Now let us return to our flower-pot again. We will suppose we are drawing from a real flower-pot and plant. We determine how large we will make our sketch, and begin operations by drawing a vertical line (a straight upright line). Along this line we will mark out the proportions of the plant and pot, as in 143- 232 Autumn. We may easily discover that the plant is longer than the pot This can be done by holding the pencil upright before the eye at arm's length, as in Fig. 144, so that it will cover the pot, and measuring by the thumb the height of the pot, then raising the arm so as to cover the plant, and comparing the measurement of the pot with the plant. The lines drawn from the eye Fig. 144) show how the pencil makes the measurement on the object. After settling the question of the height of the flower-pot and plant, we will mark the measurements on the line. And now we will draw in the pot, leaving the straight line through its centre. On observing the plant we will see that it is not exactly straight, and here again the straight line will be of assistance. By holding up our pencil, which represents the straight line, we will discover that the main stem of the plant leans consider- ably to the left. Guided by the line, we can get the curve of the stem about right. Now we sketch the stem. . Along the straight line we again measure the distance from the top of each How to Draw. 233 leaf and flower to the pot, as in Fig. 145. We can see several leaves, each reaching a certain height. Observing the same plan of measurement, we find that the top of the lowest leaf is about the same height from the pot as the height of the pot it- self, and again from the top of the lowest leaf to the top of the plant measures the same distance. By drawing another vertical line just toucning the right side of the pot, we find that it touches the ex- treme edge of the leaf. Thus we find the exact situation of the leaf. By the same method we find the right places for the other leaves and flowers, and after we know just where they belong, we draw them in, and find that we have produced a very creditable outline from nature. We need not confine ourselves to one or two guiding lines in sketching an ob' ject ; in fact, we may use as many straight lines as will help us to get the correct pro- portions ; not only vertical and horizontal lines, but slanting lines will also assist us in most cases. The sketch of a dog (Fig. 146) will give an idea of the way to employ all lines necessary in sketching from nature. A few words will be all that is necessary to explain this illus- tration. There lies the dog on the floor, and we seat ourselves at a little distance from it with pencil and paper. We will start off with a horizontal line (A) ; then we can form some idea as to whether the little dog lies along a straight line, or in case the bottom line slants, how much it slants. Then draw the vertical line (B E). Now suppose we hold our pencil upright, in such a Autumn. position as to touch the back of the knee-joint of the foreleg we will find that it passes through the middle of the dog's back, as represented by the line (B E) ; so we have found the places for these parts. Another hori- zontal line (C D) drawn above the first will touch just over the right eye, pass through the middle of the left ear, through the middle of the neck, cut off the foreleg, and run along the top of the two hind legs, passing through the knee of the left one. This will show us that the top of the right eye, the ear, and the top of both hindlegs are on a line. It will also help us to get the proportions above and below the line ; then by drawing a line from D to the point F on the horizontal line A, we find that the lower edges of the left hind and fore legs are on the same line, which, if extended a little farther down, will touch the edge of the dog's mouth. With these lines to guide us we cannot go far astray in our propor- tions. One of the chief difficulties in following this method of drawing from nature is to hold our measuring-stick exactly vertical or horizontal. This difficulty can be overcome by providing yourself with a T-square (Fig. 147) and attaching to it, at the point P, a string with a weight tied on the other end so that it will hang plumb. By using this we can be sure whether we hold it How to Draw. 235 straight or not, for in case we tip it too much on one side or the other the string will swerve from the middle of the upright stick. Of course, whenever we hold the T-square perfectly straight, the string will fall straight down the middle of the upright, and the top of the T will then give us a true horizontal line. A lit- tle thought and practice will lead you to thoroughly understand this method, and when you really understand it you will have an unerring guide to assist you. Of course, as the eye and hand become more trained, with practice and observation, the work will become easier, and you will not need the T-square. In beginning the practice of drawing from nature, we had better confine our first efforts to things that will stand still, for without a practised hand it will be almost impossible to sketch a restless subject ; but if we attempt to do so, we should follow the methods before taught as nearly as possible. Now, suppose we step out of doors in search of something to sketch. The first moving object our eyes rest upon is a goose, and we decide to use him as a model. But he is so restless, will not keep still an instant. First we have a front view, then a side view, and again he turns his back upon us. If we really must have his picture, the only way is to catch him and tie him up. Yet even now he is a difficult subject, twisting and turning, and bobbing his head about. Determined on sketching him, however, we observe the position in which he remains the long- est time, or assumes oftenest, and begin our work. We first note the general proportions. Is his body as thick as it is long ? Is his neck as long as his body ? Are his legs nearest the head or tail ? Is the head as long as the neck ? What part reaches the highest, or what part the lowest ? We hastily but carefully consider these questions and determine in our own mind the answers, for we must get an idea of the pro* portions before we begin our sketch. 236 Autumn. Now we draw a horizontal line along our paper, and then hold up our pencil horizontally, so that it will answer for a straight line drawn across the body of the real goose (Fig. 148). This will represent the horizontal ^* line on the paper." No- ticing then the direc- tions the outlines of the goose take from the horizontal line (represented by the pen- cil), we sketch them in on the paper, remembering that one of the most important things is to get the right direc- tions of the lines. Observe that in Fig. 149 the line G is directed to too high a point, and makes the body too thick and out of proportion. In sketching it is best to make all lines straight instead of curves, for in this way we are more likely to get the right direc- How to Draw. 237 tions. Our first rough sketch of the goose ought to have some- thing of the appearance of Fig. 150, and as we work it up more carefully it will become as nicely rounded as we could desire. One of the most common faults a beginner is apt to commit is to try to do too much, either by choosing too great a subject, such as a large landscape, or by putting too many little things into the composition. Take care of the large things, and the little things will take care of themselves. If our subject be a clump of trees at some distance, we should not attempt to draw in separate leaves, but endeavor to get the true shape of the tree, simply indicating the leaves by a few lines. Neither must we attempt, in our first sketches, to put in all the shadows we see ; the strong principal ones are all that are necessary. A background of hills and trees should be merely suggested by a few lines, because the light striking upon them gives a very light appearance. Draw as simply as possible. Ten pictures are spoiled by putting in too much work, where one is spoiled by too little. Don't be discouraged. Every effort will show improvement, if you really put your mind and heart in your work. As for Materials, a sheet of drawing-paper, a No. 2 lead-pencil, and a piece of soft rubber are all you really need to commence with. Later it will be well to have a drawing-pad and several more pencils. CHAPTER XXII. HOW TO PAINT IN WATER-COLORS. HERE is a certain charm in water-color paint* ing a charm distinctly its own which lies, ag Penley says, " in the beauty and truthfulness of its aerial tones." Without this quality a water-color, as a water-color, is a failure. This transparency of effect does not depend alone upon the manner of painting or the col- ors employed, but much rests with the paper we use. In the days when our mothers and grandmothers were taught painting at school, the finest, smoothest cardboard was thought necessary ; but we have since learned that the flat, smooth paper tends decidedly toward producing a flat, smooth effect in the picture painted upon it, while the rough, uneven surface of the paper now in use helps to produce depth and at- mosphere. Therefore it is always best to have rough paper to paint upon. We give below the Materials for Water-Color Painting. 1. A block of rough drawing or water-color paper. It is better to buy it in blocks than by the sheet, as it ig much more easily handled, and is always ready for use. 2. Brushes. The best brushes are made of sable, and al- though costing more to begin with, it is really more econom How to Paint in Water-Colors. 239 ical to purchase them than to choose the less expensive camel's- hair ; for the sable are by far the most satisfactory, and will last much longer. Three or four brushes are sufficient. As Devoe & Co. number them, they should range between No. 3, which is small enough for ordinary painting, and No. 19, for clouds, backgrounds, etc. 3. Colors. A tin sketching-box of moist colors, which also contains a palette, is very useful, but the colors can be bought separately in tubes or pans. Water-color painting seems by its qualities to be especially adapted to flowers and landscapes, and as this is to be a chap- ter, not a book, on water-colors, we will confine ourselves to the principal points to be observed in these two departments, and will commence with the Flowers. Few oil-paintings, however well executed, give the deli- cate, exquisite texture of a flower as nearly as water-colors. The semitransparency of a rose-petal, the juicy, translucent green of the young leaf, it is difficult to truthfully represent in other than these colors, whose essential quality is transpar- ency. To preserve this transparency of color, everything about the painting must be kept exceedingly neat. The brushes must be thoroughly washed before using them for a different tint from that already upon them, and plenty of water, changed frequently, is necessary. Having arranged your materials conveniently upon a table, place your paper so that it will lie at an angle slanting toward you, not perfectly flat upon the table; this can be done by put- ting books under the edge farthest from you, thus raising it up. Stand the flowers you wish to copy in such a position that the light will fall upon them only from one direction and pro- 16 240 duce decided shadows ; the effect will then be much better than when the light is more diffused. Always arrange your model exactly as you want to paint it, and leave nothing to your idea of how it ought to look. If you do not intend to have any background other than the white pa- per, place something white behind your flowers. If you want a colored background, arrange the color you have chosen be- hind the flowers, and paint it as you see it. Commence your work by sketching lightly, as correctly and rapidly as you can, the outline of your flower. Try something simple at first ; say a bunch o\ heart's-ease or pansies, and when drawing them try to get the character of both flow- er and leaf. Observe how the stem curves where it is attached to the flower, and at what angles the stems of the flowers and the leaves join the main stalk. Given char- acter, an outline drawing painted in flat tints will closely re- semble nature ; without it, the most beautifully finished paint- ing will not look like the flower it is intended to represent. When your outline is drawn in, dip your largest brush in clear water, and go over the whole surface of your paper How to Paint in loafer- Colors. 241 then place a piece of blotting-paper over the paper to soak up the water, leaving it simply damp, not wet. If you are using tube colors, have ready on a porcelain palette, or ordinary dinner-plate, these colors : crimson lake, cobalt blue, indigo, Prussian blue, and gamboge. Put in your lightest tints first, leaving the white paper for the highest light ; then paint in your darker tints and shadows, and get the effect. If your flower is what we call the johnny-jump-up, the lowest petal will be yellow. Paint this in with a light wash of gam- boge, leaving, as we have said, the white paper for touches of high light. The two upper petals will probably be a deep claret-color ; this is made by mixing crimson lake and cobalt blue, the crimson lake predominating. The two central petals may be a bluish lavender, and this color is made by mixing a little crimson lake with cobalt blue. Use plenty of water ; but do not let it run, and keep the colors of the petals distinct. Paint the stems and leaves, where they are a rich green, with a mixture of gamboge and Prussian blue, and where they ap- pear gray as the light touches them, a pale wash of indigo will give the desired effect. Keep your shadows broad and distinct, and your tints as flat as you can. Leave out details altogether in your first paintings, and add them afterward only when you can do so without spoiling the effect. When a tinted background is desired, put it in quickly in a flat tint, before commencing the flowers. It is best not to bring the tint quite up to the outline, as a narrow edge of white left around the flower gives a pleasant, sketchy look to the painting. Landscapes. In your first studies from nature keep to simple subjects, and treat them simply, without any attempt at elaboration. 242 Autumn. Choose, for instance, a picturesque corner of an old fence, with perhaps a bit of field and sky for the background. Sketch in the principal features in the foreground in outline, and indicate the horizon, if it conies in the picture. Penley says, in his " System of Water-Color Painting," " White paper is too opaque to paint upon without some wash of color being first passed over it," and he recommends a thin wash of yellow oclire and brown madder, which should be put all over the surface of the paper except on the high lights in the foreground, which are best left crisp and white. Notwithstanding what Penley says in this matter, it must be borne in mind that some artists do not believe in successive washes, but claim that the color desired should be put upon the white paper at once. If the yellow tint is used, let it become quite dry and then wash it over with a large brush and clean water ; then, as in the flower painting, soak up the water with blotting-paper ; the blotting-paper must also be quite clean. While the paper is damp, not wet, begin with a blue tint a light wash of cobalt will give it and put in the sky in a fiat tint ; bring the same color down all over your sketch except in the high lights. The blue tint gives atmosphere and distance. Let your paper again become quite dry, and then wash it over as before, in clear water. The process of laying on color and lightly washing over it afterward should be repeated several times, " and the result will be a transparent aerial tone." Keep your extreme distance bluish, your middle distance warmer in tone, but not too strong, and the principal objects in your foreground strong. Leave out small objects, and with light and shade seek to obtain the effect. Keep your colors pure or your sketch will be dull. Contrast has much to do in producing strength and character, How to Paint in Water-Colors. 243 Phillips says that, " in aiming at opposition of color, we must select that which gives force to the foreground, and conse- quently communicates the appearance of air in the distance. Thus, if the general tone of the light be warm and yellow, we should have blues and purples in the foreground ; if the lights be cool, reds and yellows in the foreground give atmosphere to distance, as neither of these colors in a positive state is found in the middle or remote distance." The three principal contrasts are blue opposed to orange, red to green, and yellow to purple ; and " a good first lesson in sketching in color will be to put in your shadows with color op- posite to the object in light ; and by carrying out this principle of opposition throughout the scale you will obtain an endless variety of contrasts." It is the general rule in most painting to have cool shadows to warm lights, and warm shadows to cool lights. We all know that a green picture is very disagreeable, and although a green field is green, it must not be made in- tensely so. An untrained eye will not see how nature tones down the vivid color with shadows, and softens it with the at- mosphere ; but when the eye has learned to look at nature in the right way this difficulty will be overcome. Howard says, " green must be sparingly used, even in landscapes, whose greatest charm consists of vegetation." Foliage in some form will present itself in almost every landscape, and it is therefore necessary to have a few general principles to guide you in this important feature. In sketch- ing trees be sure to get the character of their trunks, limbs, branches, and general form ; also the texture of the bark, rough or smooth. You will see that the foliage appears in layers, one above another. Sketch in the outlines of the principal layers, where they are tipped with light ; then go over the whole tree with a local color, and afterward separate the light from shadow. Each mass is edged with light, while its base is in 244 Autumn. shadow, as a rule. Omit details, and keep to your masses of light and shade. If your tree is in the foreground, leave the white paper for crisp touches of high light. The tone of your fence will probably be gray, but do not take it for granted that it is all gray ; look for other colors, and you will find brown, blue, green, and sometimes red. Put these in as you see them, letting the edges melt into each other, as they will do when the paper is damp ; but have each color pure, and do not try to mix them. Painting from Notes is not as difficult as one might imagine. With a little practice it is easily learned. The following directions will tell how to paint a sunset on the meadows, from notes made at sunset on the meadows on Long Island. Take a piece of Whatman's rough drawing-paper, or a kind that is termed egg-shell cartoon, the size decided upon for your picture. Have ready a large dish of clean water, brushes, and paints. Draw a pencil-line along the centre of your paper for your horizon, Fig. 151 ; then directly on the line paint a streak of vermilion. Put the color on quite damp, and make it about half an inch broad, extending one- fourth of an inch on either side of the horizon-line, Fig. 152. Next, quickly paint a yellow streak above and below the red one, making each streak of the same size and parallel, and leaving a little white paper between the different colors, Fig. 153. With a clean brush dipped in clean water carefully moisten the paper between the streaks, and allow the edges of the colors to mingle, Fig. 154. Before this has time to dry, paint a blue streak above and below, about half an inch from the yellow, Fig. 155 ; then with the clean brush dampen the white paper between, being careful not to get it too wet ; there should be just enough moisture to en- able the colors to flow and mingle at the edges, Fig. 156. This - How to Paint in Water-Colors. 245 may be aided by holding the paper first one side up and then the other, until the edges are evenly blended. Now, before the horizon is quite dry, while it is still damp enough to cause Ky.ISt How to Paint a Sunset in Water- Colors. the paint to spread, fill a brush with Payne's gray, which should be rather dark and not too wet, touch the point of your brush here and there along the horizon, now a little above and now a 246 Autumn. little below, and you will find that the paint will spread and make excellent trees for the distance, Fig. 157- When your work is dry enough to paint over without spreading the color, mix some green and black, and green and brown; paint in the meadow, using ine color made of green and black for the extreme and middle distance, the color made of green and brown for the foreground, leavingspaces for streams and ponds, and your sun- set upon the meadow is finished. A pretty little sketch it is, too, Fig. 158. A differ- *&- m Leaf from an Artist's Note-Book. ent composi- tion can be made by proceeding as directed as far as Fig. How to Paint in Water- Colors. 247 and then, instead of putting in trees on the horizon, hills run- ning to points in the water can be painted in a flat tint with the Payne's gray, and a vessel with masts painted in the fore- ground, as in Fig. 159. This also makes a pretty and effective little sketch. Fig. 160 shows sunset notes taken while aboard a ferryboat in the winter of 1886-87. From these you can see just how the notes are made ; but you must makejj>0#r own notes, because what is perfectly intelligible to the writer of the sunset memo- randa is an enigma to another person. For example, in Fig. 160, " Rose-tinted sky" may mean almost any shade of red, or blue and red mixed, but "Rose-tinted sky" no doubt brings before the mind's eye of the writer of the notes the exact color of the sky at the time the notes were made. A Study in OIL CHAPTER XXIII. HOW TO PAINT IN OIL-COLORS. HE difference between oil- and water-color painting lies in- the fact that, although espe- cially well adapted to the portrayal of some subjects, water-color has its limitations, while with oil-colors any subject, from the simplest study in still-life to the grandest conception of a great artist, can be represented, and no limit has yet been reached in its possibilities. But there are first steps to be taken in all things, and the greatest artist who ever lived had to make a beginning and learn the preliminaries of painting before he could produce a picture. To these steps, then, we will turn our attention, and the first will be the necessary Materials. The following list of colors, with their combinations, will be found sufficient for most purposes. YELLOWS. Yellow Ochre, Naples Yellow, Light Cadmium, Orange Cadmium. REDS. BLUES. GREENS. Vermilion, Permanent Blue, Terre Verte, Light Red, Cobalt, Emerald Green, Indian Red, Antwerp Blue. Light Zinnober Venetian Red, Green. Burnt Sienna, Rose Madder. Silver White, Raw Umber, Vandyke Brown, Ivory Black. 250 Autumn. Winsor & Newton's colors are acknowledged by most ar- tists to be the best, but the writer personally prefers German white, as in her opinion it is not so stiff, and mixes better with other colors than the Winsor & Newton. The Easel may be simply a pine one, which can be purchased from any dealer at the cost of about one dollar. More elaborate easels are, of course, more expensive ; but as the merits of a picture do not depend upon the easel which holds it, a common pine one will do. The Palette should be light in weight and not too small ; oiled and not var- nished. A very light-colored wood is not desirable ; one of walnut or cedar, about eighteen inches long, is the best to use, and will cost from thirty to sixty cents. Brushes, both of sable and bristles, are used, but we would advise a be- ginner to work with bristle brushes only, for the first attempt should be to obtain a broad style of painting, without the finished details which the sable brushes are used for. About four different sizes of flat bristle brushes are needed to commence with ; there should be two of each size, the larg- est one inch wide, and the smallest not more than a quarter of an inch in width. The Palette-Knife is used for taking up color on the palette, for cleaning the pal- ette, and sometimes for scraping a oicture after its first painting. How to Paint in Oil- Colors. 251 It should be flexible, but not too limber. The cost will be from twenty-five cents upward. Oil-Cups are fastened on to the palette, and are used for oil and turpen- tine. The double ones range in price from eight cents to twenty. The single ones, without cover, can be bought for five cents. A Paint-Box for holding colors, palette, and brushes will cost from one dollar and twenty-five cents up. It is convenient to have one, and necessary when going out sketching, but for painting at home any kind of tin box will answer for the paints. The palette can be hung up, and the brushes put in a vase or jar, handles down- ward, which will keep them nicely. Mediums. Boiled linseed-oil or poppy-oil, s.'ccatif Courtray, and tur- pentine. Canvas. In selecting canvas choose that of a warm-gray or creamy tone, for it is difficult to give warmth to a picture painted on a cold- gray canvas. The German sketching-canvas is quite cheap, and does very well to commence on. It is best to buy it on the stretcher, as a girl's fingers are seldom strong enough to stretch the canvas as tight as it should be. A very good sketching-can- vas, 18x24, can be bought in New York City for twenty-five cents. Several clean pieces of old white cotton-cloth are necessary for wiping brushes, cleaning knife and palette, etc. 252 Autumn. The Light in the studio, or room in which you paint, should come from one direction only, and fall from above. This can be managed by covering the lower sash of the window with dark muslin, or anything that will shut out the light. A shawl will answer for a temporary curtain. Most artists prefer that while painting the light should come from behind over the left shoulder. Our advice to beginners in all the departments of art is the same : commence with simple subjects. Your first study should be from still life (which means any in- animate object used for artistic study), and let the object selected be of a shape that requires but little drawing ; for your aim now is to learn to handle your colors, and it is not desirable to have your mind distracted by complicated drawing. A vase placed on a piece of drapery, which is also brought up to form the background, is a good subject ; the drapery should be of one color, and of a tone that will contrast agreeably with the vase and give it prominence. Arrange whatever object you have decided to paint so that it will show decided masses of light and shade ; place your easel at a sufficient distance from it to obtain the general effect of shape and color without seeing too much detail ; arrange your canvas on the easel so that you will neither have to look up nor down upon it, but straight before you ; then sketch in the object you are about to copy in outline. Observe the edges of the heaviest shadows, and draw them also in outline. Char- coal is better than a pencil for sketching on canvas, as it can be easily rubbed off with a clean cloth if the drawing is incor- rect. When the sketch is finished, dust off the charcoal lightly and go over the lines again with a camel's-hair brush and India ink. How to Paint in Oil-Colors. '53 Setting the Palette is a term used for arranging the colors in a convenient man- ner upon the palette. The colors should always occupy the same position, so that, the places once learned, you will never be at a loss to find the color you want. Fig. 161 shows a con- Fig. 161. Manner of Arranging Colors on Parette. venient arrangement of colors, as well as the position of the oil-cans. Fill one of your oil-cans one-third full of turpentine, to which add enough siccatif Courtray to turn it the color of strong coffee. Dip one of your good-sized brushes in this mixture and scrape it off on the edge of the can, that the brush may not be too wet ; then take up some burnt sienna on the brush and put it on your palette about an inch or so below the terre verte, add some terre verte, and mix the two with your brush. Lay in all the shadows of the vase, or whatever object you are about 254 Autumn. to paint, in a flat, even tone with the color thus formed, keep- ing it thin with the turpentine and siccatif. Mix a tint as near the required color as you can, and go over the whole background without regard to light or shade ; cover all the background ; do not leave any white or bare can- vas showing. The general effect being thus obtained, it is easier to see what colors are needed for further painting. Select a medium tint between the high lights and half-tones, and paint in the lights of the vase in a flat, even tint ; then go over the shadows again with a medium tone, still keeping them in one flat, even mass. Should you lose the outline at any time, dip a rag in turpentine and wash off the paint that cov- ers it. Having progressed this far, the painting should be left to dry. The turpentine and siccatif Courtray have such drying prop- erties that by the next day you may work again on the study. Begin the second painting by putting in the half-tints. These unite the decided light and shade, and should be dragged over their edges, but not blended with them. Once more go over the shadows, strengthening them and putting in the reflected lights. Add more color in the lights where it is needed, and put in the high lights with clear, crisp touches. Work on your back- ground in this second painting. Indicate the shadows, but do not make them strong, except the one which will probably be cast by the object ; that can be strengthened, as it helps to set the object out from the background and gives the idea of space. Do not make the background strong ; keep it toned down, that it may not become too prominent. Drag the background a lit- tle over the edges of the vase, or whatever it may be you are painting, and then paint over it again with the colors of the How to Paint in Oil-Colors. 255 vase. Do this while working around the edges of the vase, or object, to prevent its looking flat, as if it were pasted on. These directions are to be applied to painting any subject ; but after you have learned how to manage the colors and wish to really paint a picture, the medium must be changed from tur- pentine and siccatif Courtray to oil, either linseed or poppy, using the turpentine only for the first effect of shadow. When oil is used it will require two or three days for the picture to dry. Many advise the use of but little oil, and there are artists who dissapprove of any medium at all. Before commencing the second painting, a coating of poppy- oil should be put all over the canvas with a large, flat camel's- hair brush. Every bit should be covered without touching the brush twice to the same spot. This softens the first coat of paint sufficiently to allow of its blending with the next. If a raw potato be cut in half and rubbed over the painting before the oil is put on, it will prevent the oil from crawling, or sepa- rating into drops on the canvas. Do not use the same brushes for dark and light tints, but keep them separate. Mix your tints on your palette, the dark tint below the dark colors, and the light tint below the light colors. In putting away your work after painting, be sure that the tops are screwed on to all your color-tubes, and arrange them neatly in their box. Clean your palette with the palette-knife, and then wipe it off with a rag. Dip your brushes, one by one, in turpentine and wipe them on a rag ; this removes most of the paint and makes them easier to wash. Warm, not hot, water should be used for washing the brushes. The best way is to hold several brushes in the right hand, their sticks being in an upright position, dip them in the water, rub them on a piece of common soap, and then scrub them round and round on the palm of the left hand ; rinse them in clear water, and wipe dry with a clean rag. 256 Autumn. Our limited space will not allow of our going more fully into the details of painting ; but we hope that these directions will give some idea of how to make a beginning as a painter in oil- colors, and after you have made a start you will find two good professors at your elbow to help you along and encourage you Prof. Judgment and Prof. Experience. CHAPTER XXIV. HOW TO MODEL IN CLAY AND WAX. 'N eminent artist once remarked within the writ- er's hearing that, should he bring into his studio the first dozen boys he happened to meet on the street, taking them as they came, he would probably be able to teach at least half of them to model within six months, whereas there might not be one of them who could be taught to paint at all. Possibly none of these boys would ever become great sculptors, but they could learn to model moderately well. If that is the case with boys, who are apt to be so awkward and clumsy, how quickly could a girl's deft fingers learn to mould and form the plastic clay or wax into life-like forms. In some of the institutions for the blind, deaf and dumb, modelling is taught with great success. Quickly the sensitive fingers of the young inmates run over the object to be copied, and skilfully they reproduce in their clay the form conveyed to them by touch alone. It is pleasant to think that these silent little workers have this new pleasure added to their somewhat limited stock ; but at the same time the fact puts to shame some of us who, having all our faculties, the use of all our senses, and not infrequently artistic ability in addition, do so little with the talents intrusted to our care. Let us to work then, girls, and see if we cannot accomplish at least as much as our unfortunate sisters, who have neither sight nor hearing to guide them. Modelling in Clay. How to Model in Clay and Wax. 259 The great difficulty we encounter in learning to draw which is representing things as they appear, not as they really are will not trouble us in this other department of art, for in model- ling it must be our aim to do precisely the reverse, and repro- duce an object exactly as it is, not as it appears. Modelling, besides its own worth, is of value as an aid to drawing, for it teaches form, and the shadows on an object can be drawn more intelligently and correctly when it is known just what formations produce them. A great deal can be done in modelling without the aid of a teacher. So, not waiting to look up a professor, suppose we commence by ourselves and see what we can do. It is very fas- cinating work, and if a few failures are the result of our first at- tempt, we need not be discouraged, for what others can do, we also can accomplish. The writer has lately been initiated into the mysteries of this art, and since, as they say, the person just graduated from a primary department is best fitted to teach in that department, perhaps the hints given here may be better suited to the under- standing of beginners than if they were written by a great sculptor, who might forget that everyone does not know, as well as he does himself, the preliminary steps necessary even in accomplishing the grandest results. Instead of entering into the later and more artistically finished processes we will confine ourselves to the prelude or introduc- tion to modelling ; and then, girls, with the object before you, your only guide and instructor, you must work out the rest for yourselves. The first thing to do is to provide your Materials, and here is a list of all you will need : I. Clay, such as is used by potters, perfectly free from grit 260 Autumn, 2. Modelling-tools. These can be bought at any artists' material store, and the simplest ones might be made at home of hard wood. Only a few tools are nec- essary for a beginner ; Fig. 162 shows those most useful. The fingers and thumbs are the best of all tools, and a great deal can be done with them, though for fine, delicate modelling tools must be used. 3. Modelling-stand. A regular mod- elling-stand with rotary platform will cost from eight to twelve dollars and the ex- pense may be an objection ; but the writer has found that an ordinary high office- stool with revolving seat makes a good substitute. If the stool is not high enough it can be raised by placing on the seat a drawing- or pastry-board, and on top of that a square wooden box about one foot high and broad enough to allow sufficient room for a good-sized head and bust. 4. Basin of water and towel for washing and drying the hands. How to Manage Clay. Clay costs, near New York, from one to three cents per pound, and about fifty pounds will be required. If possible buy it moist, but if dry, put it into an earthenware jar, or anything that will hold water, and cover with clear water. Let it remain until thoroughly moistened ; then with a stick stir the clay around as, when a small girl, you did the mud while making mud-pies, until it is free from lumps and is perfectly smooth ; clear away from the sides of the jar and pile it up in the cen* tre. Modelling Tools How to Model in Clay and Wax. 261 When it is dry enough not to be muddy and is still pliable, it is in a fit condition to work with. It is necessary to keep your hands perfectly clean and conveni- ences for washing them should be handy. Do not use muddy water or a dusty towel. Use any tools that will produce the result desired with the greatest ease ; a little experience will soon determine what they are, but as a rule the largest are best. When leaving unfinished work cover it with a damp cloth to keep it moist. If you are working on a head, and the features have been com- menced, stick a small wooden tool in the head just above the forehead to hold the cloth away from the face, for it is liable to soften the nose and push it out of shape if it rests upon it. A frame made of laths (Fig. 163) covered with oil-cloth or rubber (an old gossamer water-proof will be just the thing), placed over the modelling, will keep it better than the cloth, as it excludes the air and prevents its dry- ing (Fig. 164). When using the frame, sprinkle your work by dipping a clean whisk-broom into water and shaking it over the clay. Remember, the clay must always be kept moist and pliable and never allowed to dry. If it does become dry and hard there is nothing to do but to put it back into the jar, and go through the process of damping it again. Keep your tools clean, and do not allow the metal ones to become rusty, as they will if carelessly left on the modelling-stand when not in use. To avoid trouble 262 of this kind it is best to put your tools in a box where they will be perfectly dry. Unless you wish to go through one of the writer's first experiences, when she was obliged to let her tools lie in a pan of kerosene oil for two days, and then clean them with knife-brick. How to Preserve Modelled Clay. If terra-cotta clay is used, it can be baked in a kiln, which will, while hardening, turn it a fine buff terra-cotta color, and make the object, if well modelled, ornamental enough for almost any use. From the other clay, plaster casts can be taken, and the ar- ticle reproduced in plaster as many times as desired. Hints for Modelling a Head. Always work from a model, and it is best to try copying plaster casts before attempting to model from life. Place on the centre of your stand a wooden or tin box (a How to Model a Head. cigar-box will do) to form the base ; cover this with clay in the form of Fig. 165, and stick a support in the middle, as shown in How to Model in Clay and Wax. 263 diagram. The support may be a piece of kindling-wosd eight inches long and about one inch thick. Build up the clay around this stick, as in Fig. 166, and with your hands mould the clay, piecing it out here, and cutting rff there, until it bears some resemblance to a head, as in Fig. 167. Still using your hands, get the general proportions of the head, and then commence the features. Begin with the profile, using tools when necessary, and try for character without de- tail ; then turn the head a little and work from that point of view ; always look at your model from the same point of view as you do your work. Turn the head in the opposite direction and model the other side, keeping the face evenly balanced. Continue turning your work little by little, until each outline it presents is as near as you can get like the corresponding out- line of your model, and then work up the detail. In modelling any object the same process, of viewing the model from all points, must be gone through with. Do not strive to obtain a likeness at first, but be careful to have all of your outlines correct, and the likeness will come of itself. How to Model in Wax. Modelling-wax prepared at home is much better than any that can be purchased. The following recipe is a very good one : Modelling- wax. I pound pure yellow beeswax. y 2 pound corn-starch. 4 ounces Venice turpentine. 1 1^ ounce Venetian red powder. ^ ounce sweet-oil. Put the wax on the stove in a saucepan and let it melt ; take 264 Autumn. off and pour in the turpentine. Never attempt to add this while the wax is near the fire, as it is extremely dangerous. It is a good idea, when buying the ingredients, to have the oil and turpentine put in the same bottle (which should have a wide neck), then they can be poured into the wax at the same time. Warm the bottle of oil and turpen- tine in hot water to soften before mixing with the wax. Keep stirring all the time. Pour in the corn-starch and Venetian red. When the corn-starch is dissolved the wax is ready for use. Modelling-wax is much more expensive than clay; it is used principally for small objects and those that re- quire fine workmanship. It is quite useful for sketchy work, as it may be carried about almost like a sketch- book, and being so much cleaner than clay, it can be used even in the parlor with- out damage to table or car- pet. With the wax on a small Bas-relief Figure in Wax. . . . ,. board one can sit at a table and work very comfortably. The tools for clay modelling may also be used for wax ; probably the smallest will be most useful, How to Model in Clay and Wax. 265 As cold weather advances, we like to pass the evenings in some agreeable occupation, that may be carried on without dis- turbing the family group around the fireside. For such occasions, modelling in wax will make a pleasant pastime. Sitting quietly, tak- ing part in the gen- eral conversation, or listening while some- one reads aloud, one may model the wax into many pretty forms to be preserved afterward in plaster, or, obtaining a pro- file view, a likeness of one of the group maybe done in bas-relief. If a slate is used to work on, it will make a good foundation, and the head can first be drawn on it in outline and the wax built over it, using the drawing as a guide. The slate is smooth and firm, and it is a good idea to use it as a foundation for all wax bas- relief, especially when plaster casts arc to be taken from the modelling, for in that case the panel forming the background must be perfectly even. Bas-relief Head in Wax. CHAPTER XXV. HOW TO MAKE PLASTER CASTS. T is not at all difficult ; anyone can succeed in it who will take the pains to follow carefully the directions given here for making plaster casts. Without the knowledge of drawing or modelling you can in this way reproduce almost any article in a very short time. Casting in plaster is really so simple a process that even a child can soon learn to manage it nicely. You will need a board, about a foot and a half square, upon which to work, fifteen or twenty pounds of clay, five pounds of plaster-of- Paris, a cup of warm melted lard, and several small wooden pegs ; these can be made of wooden tooth-picks or matches broken in two. Select an object with few angles and a smooth surface to ex- periment on ; a firm round apple will do. Rub the lard all over the apple until every particle is greased ; then lay it in the centre of your board. Take some clay and pack it around it just as high as the middle of the apple, forming a square, as in Fig. 1 68. Smooth the clay off on the edges and stick pegs in diagonal opposite corners (Fig. 168) ; then with more clay build a wall close around the apple and its case, making the sides one inch higher than the top of the apple (Fig. 169). Put a cupful of clear water into a pan or dish, and stir in enough plaster of Paris to make it like batter ; pour the plaster over the apple, filling the clay box to the top. This makes a half mould of 268 Autumn. clay and a half mould of plaster. When the plaster is hard, which will be in a very short time, pull away your clay wall, and take out the apple and half plaster mould to- gether, lifting the apple from its half clay mould. Remove the clay from your board and set the plaster mould containing the apple in the centre. Rub lard over the apple and upper edge of the mould, build around it '^ the clay wall, as you did the first time ; roll a small piece of clay into a slender conical shape and stand it upright on top of How to Make Plaster Casts. 269 the apple, as in Fig. 169. This will make a hole through which to pour the plaster when filling the completed mould, and it must stand high enough to reach above the top of the clay wall. Pour the plaster over the apple as at first, and let it set or harden. Take away the wall of clay once more, and carefully separate the two parts of the mould with the blade of a table- knife ; remove the apple, and all is ready for the final cast which is to produce your plaster fruit (Fig. i/o). Thoroughly grease the inside of your mould, fit the two parts together, and wrap and tie them with string to hold them in place. Pour in the plaster, through the hole left in one-half of the mould, until it is quite full ; then gently shake it to send the plaster into all small crevices. Let your mould stand without moving again until sufficient time has elapsed for the plaster to harden ; then gently sepa- rate the two parts and you will find a perfect cast of the apple. The ridge made by the joining of the mould you must scrape off with a sharp knife, or rub with sand-paper. In taking casts of almost any object not too complicated, this same method must be employed. The only difficulty lies in deciding just where to place the dividing-line, which must be exactly at the broadest part of your model, otherwise you will break your mould in taking the object out. In casting a hand the clay must be built up around each finger to precisely its widest part ; therefore it is a good plan, be- fore commencing, to mark on the hand, with a fine paint-brush and ink, the line that is to be observed. When making casts of long objects, or those that are larger at one end than the other, such as vases, always lay them on one side, as a much better mould can be obtained in that way. 270 Autumn. I have read that if milk-and-water is used for mixing the plaster, or, after the cast has hardened, if a little oil, in which wax has been dissolved, be applied to the surface, it will take a high polish ; and if left for a while in a smoky room it will acquire the look of old ivory. The same writer also states, without giving the proportions, that liquid gum-arabic and sufficient alum in solution, mixed and put into the slip or soft plaster, will make the cast so hard that it can be set as a panel in a cabinet. The dead white of plaster-casts is frequently objected to when they are wanted for ornaments ; but that difficulty is - easily overcome by mixing dry colors with the plaster before wetting it. /fo./7/ A small quantity of yellow ochre will make the plaster creamy or ivory-like ; brown will give a wood color, and red a terra-cotta. Plaster-casts can also be i^j V ^^U \ Z r $ bronzed with gold, red, or green bronze, which makes quite hand- some ornaments of them. A plaster panel in bass-relief, bronzed with gold bronze and mounted on black or dark- colored velvet, is an exceedingly rich wall decoration. To mount a panel of this kind you must first secure a smooth, flat piece of board, not more than half an inch thick, and just large enough to allow about four inches of the background to show all around the panel when it is mounted. Cover the board with velvet or velveteen, bringing it smoothly over the edges, and tacking it down at the back. Fasten on it a small brass hook. Fig. 171 is the best kind to use, which is tacke4 to the board with small, brass tacks. How to Make Plaster Casts. 27 \ Make a ring or loop for hanging the panel in this way : Take a piece of wire about three inches long, form a small loop in the middle, and give the wire several twists ; then bend the ends out on each side. Scrape a narrow place in the top edge of the panel, just long enough to admit the wire, and about half an inch deep ; then place the wire in this little ditch and fill up the hole to the top with soft plaster. When this hardens the ring will be quite secure. Fig. 172. CHAPTER XXVI. CHINA PAINTING. ERTAINLY you can paint on china ; have confidence, and do not hesitate because you may never have studied art, but select the china you wish to decorate and we will go to work. First, take what is needed for present use from the following List of Materials. PALETTE. A common square, white china tile is the best palette for mineral colors ; but in case you have no tile, an old white plate will answer the purpose. BRUSHES. These are of camel's-hair, Figs. 173 and 174, are broad and flat, and are used in placing the color on the china when the sur- face is to be tinted. Fig. 175 is for blending the color after it is on the china ; it is called a blender, and is useful where borders and surfaces are to be tinted. Figs. 176 and 178 are for gen- eral use. Fig. 177, with its long, slender point, is for gilding, another similar brush is needed for India-ink. Mark the two brushes in some way to distinguish them one from the other, and never use either for any paint except that for which it is China Painting. 273 intended. Fig. 179 is a stipple for blending the colors when painting a face, a fish, the sky of a landscape, or wherever delicate, fine blending is needed. To clean the brushes after using : dip them in turpentine and wipe off the paint on a cotton cloth, repeating the opera- tion until the brushes are perfectly clean ; then dip them in fat oil, and bring them out smooth to a fine point. Do not allow the brushes to become bent over, if the box is not long enough Fie/, 174 Brushes for China Fainting (about one-half actual size). for them to lie out straight, remove the quills from the wooden handles and they can easily be replaced when needed. Should the brushes seem a little stiff at the next painting, immerse them in turpentine ; this will make them soft and pliable. To save the expensive gold paint, the gilder should be kept exclusively for gilding, and need not be cleaned, as it will not be injured if the hairs are carefully straightened out and the brush put away with the gold. KNIVES. Fig. 1 80 is a horn palette-knife for mixing Lacroix white, the yellows, and all such colors as are injured by contact with 18 274 Autumn. metal. It is the only knife used with the mat paints for Royal Worcester decoration. Fig. 181 is a steel palette-knife for gen- eral use. Fig. 182 is a steel scraper for removing paint from the china when necessary. Always clean the knives after mixing one color, be- fore using them for another. PAD. This is made of a ball of cotton tied in a piece of soft lining-silk, fine linen, or cotton-cloth (Fig. 183) and is used for tinting. THE PAINTS are Lacroix's colors ; they come in tubes and should be squeezed out on the palette and used as in oil paint- ing, with a little turpentine and fat oil when desired. To moisten the colors while painting dip your brush, carefully, with- out shaking or moving it around, into the turpentine or oil, and then in the color. Allow the paint to lie on the palette as it comes from the tube, except when two colors are mixed, or when using the stip- ple for blending one tint with another, or when tinting, then the paint must be mixed and rubbed down with oil and turpentine. Keep the colors in a cool place, and when returning them to the box, after you have finished painting, do not lay them back on the same side. Always remember to Horn Palette- knife. Steel Palette- Steel knife. Scraper. (Reduced sizes.) Printer's Pad. China Painting. 275 turn them over so that the color will not separate from the oil. If you are careful'and follow these hints, your colors will keep in a good condition. We would advise you to purchase the paints as they are needed, thereby avoiding all unnecessary expenditure. OILS. Fat oil is for general use in painting. Clove oil is used in its place when two or more tints are to be blended together, as in painting a face, etc. Capavia oil is always mixed with the colors for grounding. TURPENTINE is in constant demand in china painting. It is used with all the different oils, paints, bronzes, and gilt, and should be poured in a small cup or any little vessel, and kept convenient while paint- ing. TAR PASTE comes in bottles, and is used to take the color off of tinted back- grounds, in order to leave a clean surface of the china in which to paint the design in different colors. The paste should be rubbed down smooth on the tile with the palette-knife ; if it is too hard, a little tar oil may be added. A small brush is best to use for the paste in covering the design you wish to wash out ; but be very careful to keep within the outlines, for this mixture will take off the color wherever it touches. When the tint is light the paste may be wiped off in a few moments ; but when it is dark, the paste must be allowed to remain on for perhaps hours before the paint will be sufficiently softened to remove. Use small balls of raw cotton -batting in wiping off the paste, and take a fresh piece for every stroke. If any of the tar paste is left on the tile after using, scrape it off with your palette- knife, and return it to the bottle. 276 Autumn. MAT GOLD is for gilding, and can be either burnished or highly polished. It comes on a little square of glass inclosed in a box. This gold can also be used as solid ornamentation or for delicate tracery, and is sometimes used over colors, greens except- ed, but is then never so bright as when on the plain white china. The gold is prepared for painting on a tile kept expressly for the purpose, and which must not be used for any other paint. Place some of the gold on the palette with your palette-knife, and mix a little turpentine with it by dipping your palette- knife in the turpentine and rubbing down the gold with the turpentine on the knife. If more is needed, again dip yourknife in the liquid, and do so as often as it is necessary ; but you must use the utmost care not to have the gold too thin ; gild with it as stiff as it can be smoothly applied. Should any gold remain on the palette after the gilding is finished, mix in a little turpentine and scrape it all up with your palette-knife, then replace the gold on the square of glass. Silver is used the same as gold. The bronzes are for handles and conventional flowers or figures ; they are rich and pleasing in effect. PURE GOLD cannot be employed for gilding plain white china. It also comes on a little square of glass and is used for gilding over colors. It can be applied over any mineral paint or relief, and may be polished or burnished as desired. This gold is mixed with turpentine, for use in the same man- ner as mat gold. China Painting. 277 RELIEF. The best is mat relief, which comes in a powder, and is used for both tube and mat colors. It is prepared by mixing with a very little fat oil and turpentine, and should be applied stiff enough to make a raised line. It is useful where a small raised surface is desired, as on the edge of a leaf or the petals of flowers. A fish-net is much more effective if the gilt be put on over the relief. Should the relief dry and become too stiff while using, soften it from time to time with a little turpentine, always using the horn knife for mixing, as the steel knife should never be used with the relief, and the relief must always be fired before the gilt is applied. Enamel white can be mixed with delicate tints, turpentine, and a very little fat oil for raised flowers ; or the white alone may be used for pearls, imitation of lace, or embroidery, but its use is limited and it will not stand two firings, so should always be the last paint applied. MAT COLORS are for Royal Worcester decorations. They come in powders, and when mixed with a little oil and turpentine are used in the same way as the Lacroix tube paints. BOX FOR MATERIALS. Select a light wooden box, or one of strong pasteboard ; have the box of a convenient size to contain all your painting materials. PIECES OF SOFT, OLD MUSLIN, torn in different sizes, and plenty of them, are very essential for cleaning brushes and rubbing paint off the tile or china; the demand for clean pieces will be constant while painting. 278 Autumn. CHINA. Have this of the very finest French ware, without spots or other imperfections of the surface, and never attempt to decorate china after it has been used, for it seldom proves satisfactory. A Monochrome Painting. For this we will need a tile, a pad, a broad flat brush (Fig. 173), some turpentine, capavia, two tubes of paint one copper- water green, the other brown green a palette-knife, and some pieces of cotton cloth. Now be sure your china is perfectly clean and dry, then mix your copper-water green for Tinting. Place enough color on your palette to cover the entire sur- face to be tinted ; dip your palette-knife in the capavia oil and tap it off the knife on the tile ; in the same way place turpentine on the tile with the oil, and use your palette-knife to thoroughly mix the paint, oil, and turpentine. If the mixture seems too stiff add a little more oil and turpentine, but be careful not to have the paint too thin so that it will run; test its consistency with a brush on a clean place on the tile. As a rule, the proportions for tinting should be five drops of paint to three of capavia, mixed with a little turpentine. The paint being prepared, take the flat brush and begin to paint ; rapidly cover the entire surface with color. Then go over the tinting with a pad, touching lightly and gently, not letting the pad rest a moment on the paint, nor touching it twice in the same place in succession. Continue going over and over it until the grounding is even and of a uniform tint. Then set the china away to dry, in a safe place, where it will be China Painting. 279 free from dust. Always make a fresh pad every time you tint, and a separate one for each color used, as a pad cannot do service more than once. All tinted grounds and borders are made in this way, the capavia oil and turpentine being mixed with any of the ground- ing colors you may wish to use. Tinting is very easily and quickly done ; but should anything happen to spot or mar the evenness of the grounding, the paint must all be washed off with turpentine, and the china tinted over again. When your green-tinted china is perfectly dry, gather some maple leaves and with the brown-green paint try a New Method of Decorating China. The leaves must be free from dust and moisture and per- fectly fresh. Place a small quantity of paint on the palette, do not mix the paint with oil or turpentine, but rub it down well on the tile as it comes from the tube ; make the paint perfectly smooth, now press a small clean pad down lightly, lifting and again pressing until the paint is smoothly distributed on the pad ; next select a leaf and place it face or right side downward on a piece of folded newspaper, then press the pad down on the under side of the leaf, which is now lying upward, repeating the operation until the leaf is sufficiently covered with paint. This done, carefully place the leaf painted side downward on the china, over it lay a piece of common wrapping-paper, and rub your finger gently all over the covered leaf. Then remove the outside paper and very carefully take up the leaf, when an exact impress of the natural leaf will be printed on the china. Repeat the operation with another leaf either larger or smaller, and still another, using as many as you wish ; connect the leaves to a central branch by making the stems and branch in the same color with a small paint-brush. To do this paint a long line 280 Autumn. for the branch and other smaller ones for the stems of the leaves. Set the china away to dry, and it will be ready for firing. Very pretty effects may be secured by using two shades of one color for the tinting and designs. First tint the china, and when it is perfectly dry, ornament it with the same paint in the manner described, making the ground of a lighter tint than the decorations. The colors of fall leaves can be used on white china, or you may make the combinations and designs of what- ever is most pleasing. It is well to have some idea ot what your decoration is to be like before commencing with the leaves. If you desire a spray, try to place the leaves as they are on the natural spray, or as represented in some picture taken for a guide. The prints also look well used in a conventional style. As any kind of leaves or grasses that will print can be employed, your decorations will always be original and true to nature. Flowers are more difficult to print, yet when the impressions are successful they are very beautiful. You will find this new idea an interesting method of orna- menting china, while the decorations may be made in much less time than is usually required. The style is suitable for dinner- sets, vases, tiles, plaques, and lamps, and it requires no knowl- edge of drawing or painting to decorate china in this simple yet effective manner. Tracing. Lay a piece of tracing-paper over the design to be copied and trace the outlines very carefully with a hard lead-pencil. Then have your china perfectly clean and dry, and give it a wash all over with a clean cotton cloth wet with clear turpentine. Place a piece of red transfer-paper on the china, and having de- termined exactly where you wish the design, lay the tracing- paper over the transfer-paper on the space for decoration. Use China Painting. 281 bits of gummed paper on the corners of the transfer- and trao ing-paper to hold them in place, and carefully go over the lines with a lead-pencil, remove the papers, and the design will be clearly outlined on the ware. Now rub a little India-ink on a common individual butter-plate of white china, and using a fine brush, very carefully paint over the red marks with the India- ink, making your lines as distinct and delicate as possible. When this is finished, again wash the china with turpentine to remove any of the red coloring which may be apparent on its surface. Thus prepared the design can be painted, or the china may first be tinted and allowed to dry, when the outlines will be plainly visible through the tinting, and the color can be re- moved from the design with tar paste. Use the scraper to take the grounding off of minute spaces. For those skilled in draw- ing it will not be necessary to trace the design, as it can readily be sketched on the china with a lead-pencil after the ware has first received a coat of turpentine, and when tinted the decora- tion can be drawn on after the grounding has thoroughly dried, and the color may be removed as before. Mottled Grounds. Prepare the paint as for tinting, only make it more moist, and dab it lightly over the china by means of a piece of cotton cloth on the end of your finger ; this will give the china a mot- tled appearance which in some cases is preferred to the plain grounding. Snow Landscape. We will take for example Fig. 184. After tracing the design, paint a streak across the sky, just back and a little above the trees, with carnation No. I mixed with clove oil and turpentine, then another narrow streak above 282 Autumn. it of a lighter shade, and another still lighter of the same color, allowing each tint to meet. Next mix light sky-blue with clove oil and turpentine, and paint as deep a tint as it will make across the sky at the top of the plate, graduating it down to the red ; use the stipple immediately while the paint is wet to blend the colors and tints ; this finished, make the reflections on the ice, beginning with carnation No. I for the ice nearest the castle, and ending near the bottom of the plate with the deepest shade of light sky-blue, using the colors mixed for the sky. Paint the China Painting. 283 foliage in the background with neutral gray and sky-blue mixed with turpentine and fat oil for the darker tones, and turquoise* blue with neutral gray, turpentine and fat oil for the lighter parts, also for shading the darker portions of the snow. Then take brown No. 4 as it comes from the tube, with a little tur- pentine when necessary, for the shading of the trees in the fore- ground, the outlining of the castle, and the tufts of grass and edges of the ice in places where the copy requires it. Leave the white china for the high lights and the white snow on the roof of the castle, on the trees, and here and there on the ground. Paint the castle with neutral gray and yellow ochre mixed with turpentine and fat oil, and its windows with brown No. 4, using the color as it comes from the tube. Now allow the plate to dry and then have it fired, after which mix car- nation No. I with clove oil and turpentine, and touch up the sky and reflections on the ice, using the stipple if necessary ; then mix light sky-blue with clove oil and turpentine and paint the sky where that color is required and the light shadows on the snow ; then take yellow ochre for portions of the trees, places in the foreground, and touching up the castle ; mix this color with fat-oil and turpentine. Again strengthen the trees and other places, where the paint- ing requires it, with brown No. 4, unmixed, except with a little turpentine when necessary ; for the last touches mix relief-white with fat oil and clean turpentine, using the horn-palette knife always when mixing the white ; this is to be laid on, in little raised places, where the snow is whitest on the ground and where the snow has lodged in the trees. Now inclose the snow scene with a gilt band, using the stipple to make an uneven edge of gilt on the surrounding white rim ; the gold next to the picture must be perfectly smooth and even ; put this on with your fine long-haired brush ; 284 Autumn. then make a similar band on the edge of the plate and it will be finished and ready for its last firing. Almost any snow landscape with a sunset sky may be painted in this way. Often you can find Christmas cards which will furnish very good copies. How to Paint a Head on China. Select a pretty copy from some photograph, as in Fig. 185 ; very carefully trace the head on a plate and go over the lines with Indian ink ; next give the plate another wash with China Painting. 285 turpentine, to remove all remains of the color from the transfer- paper ; then mix thoroughly two parts of carnation No. 2 with one part of ivory-yellow, adding a little turpentine and clove oil ; give the face and neck a wash with this color and touch up the cheeks with carnation No. I mixed with clove oil and turpentine ; now lay on the shadows with neutral gray, five parts, mixed with deep chrome-green, one part, using clove oil and turpentine in mixing the colors ; last, the deepest shadows with brown No. 4, two parts, to one of ivory-black, mixed to- gether with clove oil and turpentine, and immediately before any of the paint dries use the stipple to blend the colors, making the face round out and have the blending soft and true to nature ; set your copy before you and try to have the shadows on the face you paint correspond exactly with those in the copy. Now leave the face and neck, and place some brown No. 4 on the tile ; do not mix it with anything ; use it as it comes from the tube, dipping your brush in turpentine when it becomes necessary to thin the paint a little ; with this paint the shading of the hair and follow with your brush, as nearly as possible, the sway of the masses. That finished, paint the eyes, eyebrows, and nostrils with brown No. 4 and ivory-black mixed together as they come from the tubes, using when necessary a little turpentine ; then mix a little carnation No. I with fat oil for the lips. Next turn your attention to the drapery,; shade the white material with gray No. I, unmixed, and gray No. 2 for the deeper shadows, mixed with fat oil and turpentine. For the handkerchief on the head mix emerald-green with fat-oil and turpentine ; put it on in a light tint, so that the hand- kerchief can be shaded, when dry, with the same color. When the plate is dry, it is ready to be fired. After it has been fired touch up the shading on the face and neck with two parts of carnation No. 2 mixed with one of brown No. 4, using clove oil and turpentine while mixing; and for the deepest shad- 286 Aiitumn. ows mix two parts of brown and one of ivory-black together with clove oil and turpentine. This must be put on carefully, so that the shadows will not be too dark. Use the stipple to blend the shadows ; then give the hair a wash of yellow ochre all over, and touch up the handkerchief on the head with emerald green, the same you used before. For the background of the head mix light coffee, turpen- tine, and capavia oil ; make it an even tint with the blender (Fig. 1/5); the brush must be clean and dry, and used in the same manner as the pad in tinting, then, for the outer border, mix celestial-blue with capavia and turpentine, and with your large flat brush paint the border and blend it to an even tint with your pad. When this is finished wipe off the paint around the edge as evenly as possible, so that the bare china may be left to receive a band of gold. Roll up a piece of white cotton cloth into a small point and with this remove the paint around the inner edge of the blue border, making an even narrow white band ; this is also to be gilded. On a clean tile mix the mat gold with turpentine, and using the slender, fine, long-haired brush, carefully cover the white bands of china with gold ; when this is finished the plate is ready for the second and last firing. If a fairer complexion be desired, make the flesh-tints of the same colors, only lighter in tint ; try the paint on the edge of the tile until the tint is correct. Always try your colors this way when painting any design. For blue eyes use sky-blue shaded with black ; the high light of the eye may be left the white of the china. If you wish the hair very light, take ivory-yellow and shade with sepia and black. Once more we say, be very careful in tracing not to get the head or features out of drawing, as so much depends upon the correct outlines. Before sending china to be fired, paint in small figures the date on which it was decorated and add your name or initials. China Painting. 287 How to Paint a Carp, Sea-weed, and Fish-net on China. Having traced in your design very carefully, mix one part of neutral gray with two parts of sky-blue, some clove oil, and turpentine ; with this paint the upper edge of the back of the fish dark, graduating to white along near the centre of the fish ; stipple this so that it will look even, soft, and rounding, keeping it dark on the edge and tinting down to the white china ; paint the tail and dorsal fins a flat tint of gray No. 2 mixed with fat oil and turpentine ; then mix carnation No. 2 with fat oil and turpentine for a flat tint on gills, mouth, and ventral fin ; shade the mouth with the same color and paint the anal and pectoral fins a flat tint of car- nation No. 2 mixed with sepia ; when dry shade with the same ( /- , __ i s color, and also shade the gills and fins painted carnation / with carnation, and the dorsal fins and tail shade with ivory-black mixed with fat oil and turpentine ; try the paint with your brush until you get rather a gray tint instead of black, and use this for the shading ; now paint the rows of spots along the back of the fish ivory-black, making the dots, smaller as they approach the tail ; and with your eraser take the paint off of the eye, leaving a clean white spot of china ; paint a fine circle around this in ivory-black ; then paint a portion of the eye black, leaving the white china for the high lights ; in painting the scales and lower part of the fish use gray No. I as it comes from the tube, mark an outline of gray along the lower edge of the fish and stipple it off in the white, remembering this gray must occupv only a narrow line along the lower edge of the fish. 288 Autumn. Commence to mark the scales in gray No. I by making a line of them with a fine-pointed brush downward across the body of the fish (Fig. 186) and this will be a guide to build out from (Fig. 187) ; after the painting has thoroughly dried begin again by marking, on the head and around the eye, the tiny scales in gray No. 2, with a little fat oil and turpentine, and paint a line along the upper edge of the head and back with brown No. 4, and another lighter line of the same color along the back just below and adjoining the first one ; paint the eye and markings on the head brown and strengthen the tail and dor- sal fins with gray No. 2 ; touch up around the gills with sky blue, also with yellow ochre where the copy requires it. Then turn your attention to the sea-weeds; mark the thread-like branches of these in different colors, using carnation, brown No. 4, gray No. 2, and brown-green ; paint each weed in one color, place the sea-weeds on one side or corner of the plate, making them branch out this way and that, as in nature. Now clean off your palette and mix some mat relief for the fish-net, which is to be placed over and across a portion of the plate ; with a lead-pencil mark the netting on the plate, but do not touch the fish ; then with a very fine brush follow the markings with the relief, when it is necessary to paint across the fish, your eye and the copy must be your guides, as it would take the paint off the fish to attempt any marking on it. The relief on the fish cannot be altered, so be careful to have it correct the first time. Should the line of re- lief be too broad in other places, remove it with your scraper and make another trial. When the plate is perfectly dry it China Painting. 289 must be fired, after which put in a background of warm gray mixed with capavia and turpentine ; bring this to an even tint with the blender, and if any paint blends over on the fish wipe it off while the color is damp ; also remove the paint from the netting and set the china away to allow the color to thoroughly dry ; next paint broad sweeps across the plate, but hot over the fish, with gray No. 2 mixed with fat oil and turpentine, to represent the different tints of the water, and again remove the paint from the net ; now touch up the sea-weed and the fish where they need strengthening, then give the fish a very light wash of gray No. I. Here and there along the upper edges of the water colored gray No. 2 make a very fine line with enamel or relief-white mixed with a little fat oil and turpentine ; gild the fish-net, us- ing either pure gold or mat gold, cover the relief carefully with the gold, and put it on thick but in fine lines ; this accomplished, finish by gilding the edges of the plate with mat gold, and when dry send it to be fired. To avoid mistakes when sending china to be fired, state whether you wish the gold burnished, dull, or polished. Foliage on China Made "With a Sponge. Prepare the paint with fat oil and turpentine, rub it down smooth, then with a small sponge apply the colors, using differ- ent shades as the first dry, and touching up afterward with a brush ; in this way you can also paint backgrounds which can- not be made with the brush. Mixing Colors. The best way to paint with safety when you are in doubt what colors will mix, is to test them yourself. For this pur- 19 290 Autumn. pose take a French china plate and make experiments with different colors on the plate ; at the same time write down a memorandum of the paints used and of those mixed, have the plate fired ; then paste your memorandum on the back. Use this for reference, and with experience will come the full knowledge of the use of all the paints. Royal "Worcester "Ware is very delicate and dainty and something quite novel for ama- teurs in the way of china decorations. Very beautiful pieces of this ware may be seen now in all the leading china establishments in New York City, and so choice is it that even some of the largest jewelry stores have rare Royal Worcester vases among their most valuable articles on exhibition. We know of no book that teaches this art of decoration, and although we have seen some amateur work which only an ex- pert could distinguish from the genuine article itself, we think our exposition of the method is the first of its kind printed in this country ; and girls, if you would know the secret, so that you also may be able to paint and gild in this beautiful fashion, you have only to listen while the writer tells how to decorate a Royal Worcester vase as she did ; then you will have a practi- cable and detailed method which we know to be good, having tried it. Select a vase of the finest French china, and be sure that it is perfectly clean, dry, and free from dust. Then with a clean white cotton cloth give the vase a wash all over with clear tur- pentine, and having chosen your design, make a tracing of it on the vase, and it will be ready for grounding. Mix enough mat lemon-yellow to cover the entire surface of the vase. First place a little of the powder on the tile, then dip your palette- China Painting. 291 knife in the capavia oil and tap it off on the tile ; in the sam